(Part 2) Best recording studio environment equipment according to redditors

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We found 1,095 Reddit comments discussing the best recording studio environment equipment. We ranked the 264 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Subcategories:

Recording studio acoustical treatments
Recording studio furniture
Recording studio rack accessories
Recording studio racks

Top Reddit comments about Recording Studio Environment Equipment:

u/nalybuites · 123 pointsr/cableporn

Here's the composition of the rack:

  • NavePoint 12U Network Rack
  • TP-Link TL-SG1024: 24 port rackmount switch
  • TP-Link TL-SG1016PE: 16 port rackmount power over ethernet switch (needed for the Wi-Fi access points)
  • TP-Link TL-R600VPN: Rackmount router w/ dual-WAN and VPN
  • Rackmount Power w/ surge protection
  • Rack shelf: Used to hold modem and NAS
  • Patch Panel: 24-port Cat6 patch panel (wires go in the pack via punchdown connection, and you run patch cables to the switches)
  • 12" Patch cables: For connecting between the patch panel, swicthes, other on-rack devices
  • Synology 416play NAS: Movies, music, pictures, etc. 32 TB in all.

    Elsewhere in the house/other useful parts:

  • Keystone Cat6 jacks: one per bedroom, 4 in my home office, 4 in the media room (not built yet), 3 in the family room
  • 1-, 2-, 3-, and 4-hole keystone wall plates: Buy the number of holes you want and just pop in the keystone jacks
  • Blank keystone inserts: For when you have too many holes in the keystone plates
  • Ubiquiti AC Pro x 3: Wi-Fi access points, roughly center of the house on each floor (basement, first, second)
  • Punchdown tool: For doing the punchdown connections on the patch panel and on each of the keystone Cat6 plugs in each room
  • Extra rack screws and washers
  • J-Hook: There are two hooks on each wall, holding service loops for the Cat6 and Coax, respectively.

    Useful things I learned:

  • I was originally going to run the wires myself, but never could find the time. Also Cat6 is expensive when not purchased in wholesale quantities (< 10,000 ft). So we hired a local electrician to run the actual wires. It took two of them about 1.5 days to run everything. This was well worth the money, since the project would have taken many months to do in the evenings/on weekends with a toddler running around.
  • I did all the wall terminations. Since they were punchdowns, it was easy and took one evening after work. The electricians would have charged me another half-day of labor.
  • I did all the network rack work. This also took one evening after work.
  • Do NOT buy electrical/networking equipment from a big box hardware store. Always go to a specialized retailer, like an electrician supply store. Their prices will be 1/20th that of the big box store, you won't have to have anything shipped, and their employees actually know what they are talking about. So if you're looking for something that you don't know the name of, you can usually describe it.
  • Newer construction may have fire breaks/blocks/stops which prevent fire and gases from traveling up the inside of the walls. This makes fire move more slowly and give you more time to evacuate. However, it also means you might need to drill holes/patch walls in order to run wires vertically.
  • Put in a service loop. If you ever need to re-terminate for any reason (like replacing a patch panel), it will give you extra cable to work with. Do the same thing inside your walls behind the wall plates, since you might have to do the same thing there as well.
  • Buy networking gear that is rated for the same speed (i.e., gigabit). Your network will only be as fast as the slowest part of it.
  • Watch out for network loops. This is really easy to do and will cause your router to crash or perform suboptimally. I spent >2 hours debugging on of these as a result of connecting my router to itself by way of both switches.
u/turbosubaru · 12 pointsr/hometheater

Very clean setup, especially up front. Nice.

Your a lot closer to a perfect layout than you might think. Cheap/free upgrades:

Something like this to raise the center channel to ear height-looks like yours is firing into the crotch region -> https://www.amazon.com/Auralex-Acoustics-MoPAD-XL-Acoustic-Isolation/dp/B00266HBSU

There are cheaper foams out there.

Point the surround speakers towards the MLP.

Some visual aids -> https://www.dolby.com/us/en/guide/surround-sound-speaker-setup/5-1-setup.html & https://www.crutchfield.com/S-I6gq98nrkm9/learn/learningcenter/home/speaker_placement.html

Lastly taller surround speaker stands will raise them 1-2 feet above ear level=ideal.

u/ThatGuyQuentinPeak · 7 pointsr/edmproduction

Personally, I record my vocals using my headphones built in microphone and then process with Neutron. You'd think it'd sound terrible but heres what you do. You set up your mic, you put on the headphones, you set the audio input to be very low, you put a thick blanket over you and your laptop. The blanket helps stop reflection and keeps out quite a bit of ambient noise. Now youre not going to get a perfect recording doing this but I've never had anybody ever tell me that my vocals sounded poor. You'll get a good enough recording where processing will make it sound pretty great tbh.

heres a sample of my vocals: https://soundcloud.com/qpeakmusic/unmastered-vocal-snippet

or you could buy a microphone, an interface, and one of those cheap portable vocal booths: https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PSIB27-Recording-Soundproofing-Isolation/dp/B0117DB5TI/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1524684120&sr=1-4&keywords=portable+recording+booth

u/jcvynn · 6 pointsr/weekendgunnit

Maybe try some of these on the sides. Cut down on MAWP, and one of these for more comfort for the truck when you are prone on it.

u/Madmartigan1 · 6 pointsr/Ubiquiti

I put mine on a 1U shelf and just put one rack ear on each on the small switches.

Here's a pic..

Make sure you get a shelf that doesn't have a lip. It needs to be full 1U height like this one:

Raxxess RAX UNS1 Vented Universal Rack Tray Shelf for 19" Server Racks, with Bottom Slots for Mounting Non-Rack and Half-Rack Equipment

u/sekazi · 5 pointsr/gaming

Pretty much all rack mount stuff. The box itself I made. You can get the AV Keystone jacks and 48 port plate at Monoprice. The rails, screws, additional plates and rack mounted power supplies from Amazon.

http://www.monoprice.com/category?c_id=104&cp_id=10426

http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=8630

http://www.amazon.com/Technical-Pro-PS9U-Supply-Charging/dp/B0057RL6DQ

http://www.amazon.com/Reliable-Hardware-Company-RH-6-SRR-Space/dp/B00JQYUI7G

http://www.amazon.com/Reliable-Hardware-Company-RH-RMSET-25-Washers/dp/B00JQYUAQU

http://www.amazon.com/16port-Blank-Panel-Keystone-Jack/dp/B00PEKNW2Y

http://www.amazon.com/kenable-Cable-Management-Universal-Cabinet/dp/B004HTHL20

http://www.amazon.com/CNAweb-Blank-Spacer-Mount-Filler/dp/B01B1T0RZG

http://www.amazon.com/Odyssey-APV01-Space-Panel-Accessory/dp/B0002DV0CW

I had a pile of the keystone jacks from a previous purchase a couple years ago so I did not have to get a whole lot of them. The toslink keystone jack has a issue of popping out which is solved using a zip tie to hold it in.

u/whitewater09 · 5 pointsr/PS4

Unless you live in an apartment/townhome/condo, because being on the floor will drastically increase the sound your neighbors "get" to hear. Also, putting them on the floor dampens the sound quality. Supposedly, stuff like this is a good compromise.

u/ChaoticxSerenity · 5 pointsr/Calgary

I don't think skateboarding counts as excessive noise (has to be over 65 db in the daytime).
Additionally, they are playing within the permitted times, which is from 10PM to 7AM (M-Sa), and 10PM to 9AM (Sun, holidays).

I believe here is the pertinent bylaw:

> Continuous Sound in Residential Developments
>
> 28.(1) No Person shall cause or permit to be caused a Continuous Sound that exceeds the following Sound Levels:
>
> (a) 65 decibels (dBA) Leq measured over a one (1) hour period during the Day-time; or
>
(b) 50 decibels (dBA) Leq measured over a one (1) hour period during the Night-time;
>
> at any Point of Reception within a Residential Development
>


http://www.calgary.ca/CA/city-clerks/Documents/Legislative-services/Bylaws/5M2004-CommunityStandards.pdf
http://www.calgary.ca/CSPS/ABS/Pages/Bylaws-by-topic/Noise.aspx

Suggestions:

u/niclake13 · 5 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Good monitors are huge. Headphone sound is fine, but you want to mix using unbiased reference monitors so you know what things are going to sound like. Then you make sure it sounds good through headphones, in the car, etc. Even something like these will make a huge difference. If you've got some extra coin, go for something better. I found a pair of Mackie HR842 monitors on eBay for $250 (the old ones, not the new mk2 model). They're amazing.

You don't need more inputs than what you're actually using. If you're trying for a cheap home studio, your Apogee will work just fine. Just switch cables/inputs when you're recording something new.

But anyway. Here we go. What I would buy (of note, these are all Amazon affiliate links):

Mics:

  • Shure SM58 - $100 (for vocals)

  • Shure SM57 - $100 (for guitars/vocals)

  • Sennheiser e609 - $100 (for guitars, so you can double-mic)

  • 20' mic cable - $7.50 (2 for $15)

    Monitors:

  • M-Audio Studiophile AV 30 - $85

  • Auralex MoPAD monitor pads - $44

  • OnStage SMS6000 monitor stands - $100 (if your desk isn't large enough)

    Bass:

  • Tech 21 SansAmp Bass Driver DI - $200

    I've been out of the "assorted percussion" game for a while, so you'll have to use your best judgement for that.

    All that I've listed is $744 off of Amazon. You can DEFINITELY find cheap used mics and the Bass DI. Look for Gear Talk: Classifieds on Facebook, for example. This is all stuff that you can use today to get your home studio off the ground and functional. You also have $256 to spend on other stuff that you might need (percussion, surdo, etc.)

    Logic and Pro Tools are built from the ground up to be recording suites. Ableton, while certainly being a live-sound-first option, works just fine. Nothing wrong with getting your feet wet using Ableton, and switching over to a bigger/better suite later. I recorded my first EP using GarageBand before making the transition myself.

    Start with the basics. Start with what you NEED to record, not what you want. While what you already have is basic and not feature packed, it works and will get you in the game. (Related: stay away from plugins until you know how to really mix well with the basic compressor and EQ your recording suite comes with.)

    Hope that helps!
u/RadBadTad · 4 pointsr/audiophile

Something like this will work well. You want it firm enough to provide a stable base, but not so firm that it transmits the kinetic energy/vibrations of the speaker to the desk.

u/Domonero · 4 pointsr/rant

Well the only solution I can assist here with is buy the foam sound dampening spiky wall things that you can find on Amazon to help with the quietness problem for her dark room hours.

Here's a link

This way, the rest of the house can be a bit louder while she gets to have her silence. Personally I do podcasts & this has helped the entire house from having to hear me.

They can hear me if I scream at my loudest but they can never hear my normal speaking conversation voice so I hope this helps your situation. You're a trooper for not giving up & I have nothing but respect for you.

Im sure your kids in a couple years will understand how tough your job is & thank you for what you've done

u/SixthGrader · 4 pointsr/Birmingham
u/Gee_Golly · 4 pointsr/DJs

The pads would go under the speakers, something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KNWTPRI

You can also use isolation feet for speakers or subs. I have these for my sub:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075KPHZPF

There's also a style like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PY55OSO

I have all 3 of these types for various applications, they work well. But I live in a house so I don't pay too much attention to how loud I play since I don't have attached neighbors like an apartment building would.

u/ethansfupa · 3 pointsr/battlestations
u/g0027717 · 3 pointsr/AskReddit

I would ask. Maybe even let the neighbor run on the treadmill while I went upstairs to see what it sounds like (choose a quiet time of morning or night, because without ambient city noise, the treadmill will sound much louder).

If there's noise coming from the treadmill making the house shake, buy a couple of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Auralex-GRAMMA-Monitor-Isolation-Charcoal/dp/B0002D0B4U

which I use to keep my musicians' amplifiers from broadcasting sound through the floor of our house.

u/jimmysaint13 · 3 pointsr/ikeahacks

Is this what you're referring to? I might give that a shot, thanks for the tip!

u/TWOATTICS · 3 pointsr/Beatmatch

I disagree with some of the comments. There's options you have to limit the soundwaves traveling through the walls. If you're in the cellar, there's a few things you can do to help the noise.

Mass Loaded Vinyl: https://www.amazon.com/Loaded-Vinyl-Square-Acoustic-Barrier/dp/B007N3356S

Subwoofer Pad: https://www.amazon.com/Auralex-Acoustics-SubDude-HT-Subwoofer-Isolation/dp/B00DI5AXNI/

Bass Traps: https://www.amazon.com/Column-Acoustic-Studio-Studios-Theater/dp/B01C9F83QQ/

Acoustic Panels (would recommend 2"): https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Charcoal-Acoustic-Absorption-Treatment/dp/B01KKNO9QW/

Now, the acoustic panels and bass traps are sound absorbers, not sound deadeners. In my opinion, however, if you get those last, it will improve the acoustics and accuracy of the sound you're hearing in your cellar, so maybe you wouldn't have to play it as loud.

I think the best thing you can do at first is get the subwoofer pad, followed by some mass loaded vinyl. Depending on the size of your speakers/monitors, you might want pads for those, as well. You're looking at reducing vibrations, which is what the pads and vinyl is made for. The foam and bass traps will just give you a more accurate sound.

u/FishKnees · 3 pointsr/hometheater

Here you go, OP:

Sound Dampening Speaker Riser Foam - Audio Acoustic Noise Isolation Platform Pads Recoil Stabilizer w/ Rubber Base Pad For Studio Monitor, Subwoofer, Loud Speakers - Pyle PSI15 (15 x 15 x 1.8 Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SVRLR06/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_j-3lDb0MY86VE

u/deadatzero · 3 pointsr/buildapc

best way is to get rid of the things that are making the noise in the first place.

get a ssd if possible to get rid of the drive noise, use rubber vibration dampeners between any moving parts and your case(fans,hdd), get better case fans like the noctua NF-A14 PWM fans.

and if that does not help you, you will want mass to dampen noise, so go get some mass loaded vinyl

don't get the foam stuff it wont help as much as you think

hope this helps

u/bz0qyz · 3 pointsr/Ubiquiti
u/polarbarr · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

And no problem man, the last thing I would recommend is getting some isolation padding to put under the monitors. That way when you’re blasting whatever you jam to the speakers aren’t vibrating on the desk or whatever they’re on.

Happy to help! :)

Edit:

Something like this: RightChoice XL-Pro Studio Monitor Acoustic Isolation Pads, 6" x 9", 2 Pack | High Density Premium Foam Fits Most Speaker Sizes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KNWTPRI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JpM-BbTFF0HPN

u/CosmonautJizzRocket · 3 pointsr/battlestations

You can get these foam isolation pads that will angle the speakers up, and isolate the vibration.

u/NintendoSpy · 3 pointsr/headphones

Have had a pair of JBL LSR305s for years and they are probably my favorite audio purchase ever.

That being said, getting some foam blocks like these to angle them made a HUGE difference.

u/btrocke · 3 pointsr/homelab

I got it on Amazon

u/lilgurby · 3 pointsr/AVexchange

Nice! Those Yamahas are exactly what is sitting on those exact stands in my setup...with some isolation pads in between. How big are your monitors? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DP0HI4C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/03891223 · 2 pointsr/homelab

I use lacks (the bedside ones, something like 20" x20") and haven't had a problem with warping. I use one stacked on top of the other so the top one holds my keyboard and monitor.


I also use the Bygels to hold one of my r710's up, but I had to replace the legs with wood. I remember a few months back someone commented on how Ikea wasn't producing/carrying Bygel rails anymore. I'll try to find the comment. I haven't been to an Ikea since, so I can't confirm if this is true or not.



Obviously, with the bedside one, most servers will stick out the back. My r710's stick out ~8" I believe. It hasn't given me troubles though.


The Rast may be worth bringing up. I've seen a few people get these and install something like these to mount your hardware. This guide might be useful to you. I've been thinking of doing something like this, with one rast behind the other, but since my lack situation is still not giving me issues, I haven't really had a reason to switch.

u/lightfork · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I've been with them since my first build and no complaints. In my rookie years I flashed the BIOS from Windows and bricked it. Of course flashback worked and fixed it. At work, I a crappy fan that shorted and blew the regulator on the board (literally put a hole in it) and the system still works - just not the fan header. So forgiving.

I'm not the biggest on the microphone side myself, however case fans are no good either but I think there could be ways to notch out the sound. How silent is your case? Another cool thing you may like are acoustic panels for your wall. They come in different verity to suit your taste. Also you have isolation shields and boxs but it's a little clunky. Cutting the wall reflections help.

Yeah true enough, you'd be surprised the things you hear coming across peoples mic's. Keyboard clack is the least of the worry.

u/Kcwilcox · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Hmm maybe you can try putting some of those foam sound proof tiles on your ceiling to help absorb some of the sound coming from your office?

u/mikegusta · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

I'd recommend either of these two over the 2.5lb per sq/ft density.

https://www.amazon.com/Roxul-Rockboard-Mineral-Wool-Board/dp/B006FKNVTQ/ref=pd_sim_267_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=P20ACAJ3FF2RR668MZTR

https://www.amazon.com/Roxul-Rockboard-Mineral-Wool-Board/dp/B006C10IR6/ref=pd_sim_267_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=PV8V5JGB36YEKPW77S5C

The reason being the denser ones have better frequency absorption in low mids. You're not going to get too much low end absorption with 2" panels but you'll absorb a little more with the denser Roxul. A 4" thick 8lb panel is more or less a bass trap. I work with all three of these densities regularly, each has their own strength. If I was only gonna put 2" panels in a room I'd go 8lb if I could. I'm not a huge fan of 703 because i prefer to work with the mineral wool over fiberglass. The biggest thing 703 has on roxul is its rigid, so you can just spray adhesive fabric onto it and then hang it. With roxul its better to use a frame. Acoustically they are almost identical.

u/ohhitstito · 2 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

Uhh gotcha, idk without branding or models I can’t really give in depth help. I know that Audyssey gives you options on how it’ll apply the info gathered by the mic & it’ll impact everything you watch, in your case I’m not sure.

Subs can be tricky & they’re a big part of a system, the LFE track will go directly to it, in the settings always pick LFE & not LFE + Main or else the low frequencies will continue to go to all the speakers, not just your sub & that impacts the clarity of your speakers. Also depending on the brand & model, cheaper ones will be boomy most of the time which will get annoying. Did it come with spikes? Try getting it off the floor with a riser, it’ll reduce the physical vibration of your home(I’m not sure if it’s a house or apartment). Remember, a subwoofer isn’t a speaker, it’s a pressurization device! Unless you have an expensive sub that will hit low frequencies(below 20Hz) that you can only feel, most of the time it’ll just be the sound & vibrations you’re used to.

The mixed tracked is played by your system as intended to be heard after hundreds of hours of an audio engineers work, but if not calibrated correctly, it’ll not sound right out of your system. There’s no such thing as “this is louder by default” when it comes to audio, only the natural aspect of it when mixed to represent the situation presented on whatever you may be watching, yes a whisper will sound quieter than a jet dropping bombs, but calibration is key in a system or else everything will sound off.

Definitely check out your settings, drop a reply if you need help or figure it out! I’m just trynna help.

u/RedStag86 · 2 pointsr/macsetups

I found them on Amazon. Very affordable!

Pair Rockville RRS190S Foam... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DP0HI4C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/BangsNaughtyBits · 2 pointsr/podcasting

> I'm using a Blue Yeti mic ...

Well, there's your problem, or at least a chunk of it. Condenser mics like the Yeti are simply more sensitive and will pick up more ambient sound in common use. You can try getting closer and turning down the gain a bit but the mic is simply designed this way. A dynamic mc like the ATR2100 collects less ambient sound and less echo.

You can build or buy a mic booth like this

https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PSIB27-Recording-Soundproofing-Isolation/dp/B0117DB5TI/

though I have no personal experience with one.

!

u/FattyMcFatPants- · 2 pointsr/gaming

One thing I suggest is if you're going to be making videos in there, invest in some sound dampeners to reduce echo because the beginning of the video was very loud.

u/sxnti98 · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

Acoustic Foam Bass Trap Studio Soundproofing Corner Wall 12" X 12" X 12" (4 PACK) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TT7BGQM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5rk2xb1GWX23C

I plan on also buying these bass traps. Do I put them at the bottom of the corners? And also is just one per corner needed or more

u/praetor- · 2 pointsr/CarAV

The Knu CLD is a good choice. You may want to order an additional 14 sq ft just in case; you don't want to gut your interior then get stuck waiting for more CLD for a week. You can always throw the driver's seat back in and get to work with no interior though.

For CCF I'd recommend ensolite peel and stick from raam audio. I used this along with their BXT-II CLD tiles in my install and it's easy to work with. You'll probably need around 8 or 9 yards.

Finally for MLV I'd take the easy route and just buy this from Amazon. Should be more than enough.

Now, as an alternative, just contact the guy that runs sounddeadenershowdown.com. I've read that he is a nice guy and will help you select all of the stuff you need. The products he sells are top notch but I've heard shipping is costly. You don't seem that sensitive to price so this may be the way to go to ensure you get the right materials the first time.

Lastly, take a long look at your current install. If you don't have 1/0 gauge running to the back, 6 channel RCAs, two sets of wires run to each door, etc. consider spending the extra cash and doing all that stuff while you have the interior out.

u/transam617 · 2 pointsr/CabaloftheBuildsmiths

>Navepoint 18U cabinet 19-inch

https://www.amazon.com/Navepoint-Wallmount-Cabinet-Enclosure-24-Inches/dp/B00P4SVZ4S

Most 4u cases should fit, but I don't think this is going to be a quiet build...

u/Aco2504 · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile
u/NeoTr0n · 2 pointsr/homelab

Speaking of this one - do you have rails? I don’t but I really think it needs it. It sags a bit. I read reviews that the rosewill rails aren’t good.

Basically many reviews stating they are sized wrong.

Any ideas? Perhaps I’ll just get another set of these: NavePoint 1U Adjustable 4-Post Rack Mount Server Shelf Rails Full Depth Set Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JZCWX3Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_oAM2BbQG6GASN

Main issue with those is that when I had a server on them they pushed on the server below and forced me to remove both if I wanted to work on then bottom one. In this case I don’t actually have an issue with this since there’s nothing below it.

u/pawelmwo · 2 pointsr/OLED

Thanks! The foam is an acoustic wedge. A bit expensive but does the job.

Auralex Acoustics Monitor/Speaker Isolation Pads 12" x 8.75" x 2" MoPAD XL https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00266HBSU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NgT0CbM2DK2PS

u/Fuzzybunnyofdoom · 2 pointsr/sysadmin

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008LUW49G?psc=1

Anything non-rackable gets put on a shelf. I usually use command strips to secure the item so it doesn't slide around.

u/Skitch_n_Sketch · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I don't blame you, that's kinda an odd height. If these are just going on a desk, consider something like this to angle them towards your ears. You can find a decent variety of these things, or even just make one yourself, I just linked the first one.

The only other option I can think of is these stands, but from what I remember they're dumb expensive.

u/phpete_ · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Thanks for the advice! I could get a subwoofer pad like this.

Do you have any experience with these products? Do you think it might help reduce shaking walls?

u/gardnsound · 2 pointsr/battlestations

I built it using an ikea "rast" nightstand and two 6u rack rails.

u/chillchase · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Sound Addicted - Studio Monitor Isolation Pads for 3-4.5 inches Small Speakers, Pair of 2 High Density Dampening Acoustic Stands Foam which Fits most Bookshelf's and Desktops | SMPad 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BRPM8K8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OCfSDb9QXRB5A


Here are some I bought a few weeks ago. They were perfect for my setup. They are small so don’t stick out, and are pitch black. I think they’d really help keep your aesthetic with your setup while also helping erase any micro vibrations.

u/vinylboi · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Mounting the turntable is imho the better option:

  • it should isolate better (from what I read)
  • it doesn't take away the option to play around with speaker positioning - definitely more flexible for the future.

    Probably also easier/safer to do since the turntable is not that heavy.

    But you can also use some cheap foam pads https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DP0HI4C - these should do a pretty good job
u/hodlontowhatyougot · 2 pointsr/battlestations
u/KnightontheSun · 2 pointsr/HomeServer

I would just use something basic like this:

https://www.amazon.com/NavePoint-Adjustable-4-Post-Mount-Server/dp/B00JZCWX3Q

I have something very similar under my Norco. I just don't pull the chassis out very far or at all. I can access anything inside easily enough from the sides or top. It sits just atop my SuperMicro.

u/TryptamineTester · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/BLUElightCory · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

Try a Universal Rackmount Tray.

If for some reason the holes in the Big Knob don't fit the tray, use a piece of industrial velcro with the tray and that thing won't move at all.

u/StargatePioneer · 2 pointsr/podcasting

I'm the first to recommend a small mixer or audio interface and dynamic cardioid microphones for your setup, but let's save that recommendation for later.

You are going to have an incredibly difficult time eliminating cross talk and attempting to record on two tracks with your setup. The reason for the crosstalk issue is that the Blue Yeti is a condenser microphone which means the diaphragm which captures the sound is powered and very sensitive. This is actually a great thing given an audio controlled environment such as a sound booth where room echo or reverb and ambient sounds can be controlled. In your average home this is a nightmare and people end up spending hundreds if not thousands of dollars for room treatments when a simple hardware purchase of a dynamic microphone can solve most of those issues without redecoration your recording space. One way to combat this is to make a microphone vocal box. You can DIY a vocal sound box like this one. Or you can spend a few hundred dollars one. You can also just use a pillow fort around your microphones to test it out. This probably won’t eliminate your crosstalk issues but it might help control it some.

The other issue with two USB microphones can be solved as /u/BangsNaughtyBits stated but just beware, these solutions have a tendency to break at inopportune moments.

Now I'm going to return to a hardware solution. If you are recording in the same room I'll often recommend a Zoom H4nPro, a Zoom H5 or a Zoom H6 recorder and two XLR Microphones. I started with the Behringer XM1800s which if you are cash strapped I'd still recommend. However, if you can afford a bit better microphone I'd suggest a Blue enCore 100 or a sE Electronic V7 for each person in the sub $100 range.

u/Haebang · 2 pointsr/vipkid

I don't have this problem, but you could go to a hardware/crafts store, buy some cheap foam, cover it with fabric (so it doesn't look like crap), then hang it on your walls. Should do well to dampen the sound your neighbors are hearing.

If you don't want to spend the time making them, you could spend the money

u/ruckertopia · 2 pointsr/homelab

I just used a set of these (they make a couple different versions) for my Netapp DS4243: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JZCWX3Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/slippery_salmons · 2 pointsr/homelab

Have you experienced any spacing issues with those round-hole rails?

I built my own 12U wooden rack and used these.

The spacing was so bad I only had 6U of usable space.

https://imgur.com/Y8jrzEm

https://imgur.com/nHXFqi4

I picked up a 24U Dell rack with square holes for $70 and threw sides and roof on the wood rack and it's now a doghouse.

u/ok200 · 2 pointsr/DIY
u/derfmcdoogal · 2 pointsr/homelab

honestly, you're going to spend an arm and a leg hoping to get the right parts. Just get some shelf rails and call it a day.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JZCWX3Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/tehbillg · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I have these that I paired with a couple stands for my JBLs. I can't say these are the very best for everyone's situation, but they have been perfectly fine for me.

u/WretchedLocket · 2 pointsr/turntables

Definitely don't set them on the floor. If you moved them off the table, use stands. You'd want the speakers at ear level when you're sitting down and listening. But, yes, you can get those isolation pads off Amazon and they will work just fine

u/jacob_the_snacob · 2 pointsr/u_jacob_the_snacob

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W2SBmvBbIYI

PM me your address again so I can send you some of the square panels that are clogging up my closet -- I was able to hang a couple of them out of my asshole cat's reach, but I still have a bunch that are doing absolutely nothing but collecting dust at the moment

---------------------

square foam panels:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074JK1GKJ

mainly chose them since they had four stars across 50+ reviews, and had 2.5 inches of depth (vs. the majority on amazon that only push out 1 inch)

huge difference in sound quality -- much less reverb, way easier to make accurate decisions when mixing, not nearly as much random bullshit getting picked up when recording vocals

honestly felt similar to when I made the jump from 60hz monitors to 144hz monitors a couple years ago

------------------------

how to treat a room:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZitBGg9zGfg

https://ehomerecordingstudio.com/acoustic-treatment-101

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6-dOSD1KoNU

----------------------

bass traps:

just as important as the square panels

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TT7BGQM

https://ehomerecordingstudio.com/bass-traps/

tl;dr: if you have a square room, buy 8 bass traps, and hang two in each corner (one touching the ceiling, one touching the floor)

side note, these things are huge: https://i.imgur.com/YNuuobB.png

-------------------------

hanging everything up:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074KR7LZ1

-------------------

cc: /u/iamtheamaznazn

u/DeliciousGorilla · 2 pointsr/battlestations

This may look familiar, I posted my setup briefly a couple weeks ago but deleted it. I’ve since made some changes and took better photos. Now I’m ready to share!

I switch between the PC & Mac with a USB switch that’s connected to a hub with my keyboard/mouse/mic/webcam/etc, and then change the input source on the monitor. The TV above me isn’t normally on, I really only use it when on the couch behind me.

I use the MacBook 90% of the time, but when it’s time to do video editing or rendering I fire up the big boy:

16-Core AMD Ryzen Threadripper 1950X 3.4GHz

NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080

32GB DDR4

500GB SSD + 3TB HDD

---

The rest:

LG 34” Monitor

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074JKT894/

ATS Acoustic Panels

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QH2RJW2/

Table Lamp

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XPNS3Z/

Monitor Stand

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBVBQKZ/

And of course the usual IKEA KARLBY countertop & ALEX drawers. The floor lamp is also IKEA: HEKTAR.

u/XxMegatr0nxX · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Audio Technica ATLP120

M-AUDIO AV32 multimedia monitor speaker's

The speaker's are resting on a anti vibration stands / plates so no base will screw with the turntabke, plus I don't really listen to my tunes to loud I'm in a small space (apartment)

Similar to these but I cut them to be flush

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00SVRLR06/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_469_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YKAEYS9CK4B4DWADZ2M5

u/NCSKA21 · 1 pointr/homelab

Nice wood working, rack looks real nice actually. If you want it to have real rail sidings you can buy these, work real well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQYV8BQ/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485093027&sr=sr-1&keywords=rack+rails

u/wigrking · 1 pointr/edmproduction

Thanks for the reply! I've got regular 1ft by 1ft auralex tiles (96 of them) and then I've got these bass traps.

None of them are in frames. I've just got the tiles and traps. I also have some OC703 about 6 inches thick but I can handle the hanging of those. It's just these flimsy foam panels giving me an issue. I've got enough of them that the damage free hangars are gonna be a serious pain in the ass. The inverted shelf strip does seem like a good idea acoustically, i haven't seen that before. Thanks again for the ideas.

u/SilentWalrus1 · 1 pointr/homelab

You could always get a 1u half length shelf.

Here

u/MemeLovingLoser · 1 pointr/homelab

For my first rack I put something like these [https://www.amazon.com/Reliable-Hardware-Company-RH-6-SRR-Space/dp/B00JQYUI7G] on a wood frame and it worked well. Yeah they are the threaded "AV" holes but I never had an issue from it, even with my 4U Rosewill FreeNas box.

u/MudHutMafioso · 1 pointr/audioengineering

Rack-mount interface for $200.00 is going to be hard. Consider a rack shelf.

https://www.amazon.com/NavePoint-Cantilever-Server-Vented-Shelves/dp/B008LUW49G/

u/yngri · 1 pointr/vinyl

In your situation the main issue would be keeping the speakers at the ear-level, because they're probably too low now. Search Craigslist for some speaker stands – it's the best solution. If your speakers are truly compact, another, less desirable option, would be to place them on isolation foam pads to minimize vibration and keep them on the same surface with your TT.

u/A_Real_NSA_Analyst · 1 pointr/homelab

I use these: NavePoint Cantilever Server Shelf Vented Shelves Rack Mount 19 Inch 1U Black 10 Inches (250mm) deep https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008LUW49G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Lg3pDbREW9TV5

u/LeKKeR80 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

First, pop off the wall plate and verify that the ethernet ports are using all 4 pairs of wires and if they follow the A or B pattern.

If those are wired correctly (and they aren't splitting off wire pairs for phone service) then you can either put RJ45 jacks on the wires or put in a networking rack with patch panel or keystone panel and keystones to hold everything together. Add a shelf to the rack to hold your router/modem.

u/theTeamsFlag · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

You don't need a completely silent PC for music production. Don't keep the extra hardware in the same room you're recording in and the mic simply won't pick it up.

When I did production in home honestly I just kept my pc 6 feet away from my recording "booth" and my booth was insulated drywall framed with 2*4's that were reinforced in wall with screws.

Out some of these (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EIHFOTM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_AaJwxbPEQVYX1) in the booth and on the outside of the booth

Hope that helps


www.flagz.net for samples.. Anything post 2014 is in an even worse embodiment with no sound proofing sitting right next to my gaming pc.

u/evDev84 · 1 pointr/hometheater

I had a similar situation but I bought some isolation pads (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BRPM8K8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share) and use them in a way that angles the center at a slight upward angle.

u/fbaglio1 · 1 pointr/DIY

based on what i've been reading it sounds like Mineral wool is better than fibreglass. Would something like this work so that I could just stuff this in there.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006C10IR6/?tag=sndprf-20
http://www.acoustimac.com/mineral-wool-1260/

I don't really know the difference of 6 vs. 8 lbs/sqft

u/Galaxyhiker42 · 1 pointr/NewOrleans

do you have a guest bedroom or room that does not share a wall?

You've basically got to invest in sound foam and padding and build boxes/ frames. Its not going to be perfect but it will stop some stuff from echoing around.

Like others have said you really do need a room with in a room to make it truly sound proof... which if you have a guest bedroom, you could just shrink it down by a few square feet and build an acoustic room.

Also as far as listening loud... if you really do enjoy music be mindful of the decibel readings in your house as you can easily give yourself permanent hearing damage.

Focus on the quality of the sound in the house, not the volume. You'll be surprised at how amazing things can sound with good quality speakers and the proper acoustics.

u/applevinegar · 1 pointr/audiophile

Sorbotane pads are useful to isolate the speakers, so while I do advise you get some(these would be fine), you'll want to add enough height underneath them so that the midpoint between the tweeter and woofer is at your ear's level. A lot of people are happy with these stands, which isolate as well, eliminating the need for pads.

An alternative is to tilt them upwards: https://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-Desktop-Speaker-Stands-Pair/dp/B005STCILC but it's not as good.

u/Kidrodi96 · 1 pointr/audiophile

It's pretty much exactly 130hz. I played a sine wave at different pitches and that frequency sticks out as the loudest alongside 180hz as well.

In that case would something like this do the job? I certainly can't afford anything else.

I will try out EQing though, see how it goes.

u/imprl59 · 1 pointr/Advice

The problem is that the bass just carries. Putting stuff on the wall will filter out the highs but the thump thump thump lives on.

If you're only hearing the bass ask them to lower the bass level a bit and see if it helps. If they sit the speakers on an isolation pad that prevents the bass from being transferred to the building that really help too.

u/That_GareBear · 1 pointr/vinyl

In lieu of speakers stands or a separate surface, if space is tight, perhaps some vibration dampening wedges would work. Like these.

u/we_can_build_it · 1 pointr/DIY

Something like this should be exactly what you need!

u/Punished__Snake · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace
u/guiltykeyboard · 1 pointr/homelab

NavePoint Cantilever Server Shelf Vented Shelves Rack Mount 19" 1U Black 10" (250mm) deep https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008LUW49G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nXb9BbQ2ZKE7R

I used this one for my modem and small stuff. It’s less expensive and has edges that are rolled up to keep stuff on the shelf. I don’t have any of the larger shelves because all of the big stuff is rail mounted. But the modem is on a small shelf. There are a bunch of different sizes.

One thing to keep in mind when looking at stuff is the specs online for how deep things are does not include the amount of depth that cables like the power cable adds to the back.

Also, if you have dell sliding rails, consider the cable management arm. It’s really nice to have to keep cables organized and keep them from ripping out of the back when you slide the server out.

It has sideways cuts in the bottom for airflow. I used Velcro cable ties to keep stuff in place. I attached multiple cable ties together and down through the shelf holes.

VELCRO Brand ONE WRAP Thin Ties | Strong & Reusable | Perfect for Fastening Wires & Organizing Cords | Black, 8 x 1/2-Inch | 100 Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nYb9Bb1E6D6EM

u/batpigworld · 1 pointr/hometheater

You can add an isolation pad under the sub which will reduce mechanical transfer through the floor and reduce annoyance to the neighbors: https://www.amazon.com/Sound-Dampening-Speaker-Riser-Foam/dp/B00SVRLR06/

If you decide that you just don't want to deal with a sub right now, then definitely go with more substantial bookshelf speakers because those little Miccas won't have any meaningful bass output.

u/winningatlife · 1 pointr/vinyl

If you have to make what you have work, I'd highly recommend some isolation pads at least. I used these for over a year before I upgraded to stands and could tell a difference! https://www.amazon.com/Sound-Addicted-Isolation-Dampening-Bookshelfs/dp/B07BRPM8K8/ref=mp_s_a_1_4

u/jkkkjkhk · 1 pointr/audioengineering

I've been looking at Owens Corning 703 and 705 and Roxul Rockboard 40/60/80. Both are easy to find online, but are very expensive to ship due to the size. For example this is Rockboard 80 which is comparable to OC 705. Price is $75, but shipping is another $50. I'm seeing comparable pricing anywhere I look online, with no bundled shipping discount for a larger order (4 packs = $200 shipping).

https://www.amazon.com/Roxul-Rockboard-Mineral-Wool-Board/dp/B006C10IR6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=rockboard+80&qid=1557385655&s=gateway&sr=8-1

I contacted a local distributor today who stocked all of them. I was told $65 for a pack of Rockboard 80, 6 sheets 2'x4'x2". I'm going to check it out tomorrow to see if it's actually the price but I'll check back in either way. If so that'll be a damn good deal.

​

Contact a local distributor (not Lowes or Home Depot, they don't carry them).

u/FTPMystery · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

These are what I have, for both my speakers sets in my bedroom and my computer room.

Isolation pads (Amazon)

u/clupean · 1 pointr/buildapc

You'd need to buy enough foam and broadband absorbers, and don't forget the corners to cover everything but the prices seem ok.

To cancel all the noise you'd need a much more expensive professional solution but you're not going to be playing music, are you?

u/FUCITADEL · 1 pointr/audioengineering

I've used mass loaded vinyl. I've used it personally. I bought so much of it, that it was delivered freight on a pallet and I needed a friend to help me transport the roll inside. It. Doesn't. Work.

If you want to buy it, knock yourself out. I even went through the trouble of finding a supplier for you. Enjoy.

u/PoliticalBonobo · 1 pointr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Having your ceilings vaulted like that is a great start. I'm not sure how big your room is, but helped tame my low-end issues in my 12x10ft (8ft height) room by using thick panels. I started with homemade bass traps, but I had much better success making 6in-thick panels out of very dense insulation. Thick panels for small rooms was recommended to me from one of the major acoustic treatment retailers.
I ended up making them myself for a lot cheaper. I personally love Rockboard 80 because it's very dense (look at Roxul's absorption numbers on their website) and is super easy to work with (it's not fiberglass, which I hate working with). I used a similar method to this, using corner bead and rivets. I'm not very handy but it was super easy.

u/Cephia · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

You would have to add a shelf or two separately. The shelves or rackmount equipment screw to little square nuts that pop into the square holes in the rack. They include only enough for half of the rack, unfortunately, but rack nuts are easy to find and buy.

That monoprice one above might be easier to use in that aspect, no rack nuts needed.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007OGTGS/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3TU1MTJJ0M7GZ&colid=3SKLSX7B2QEZB a shelf

u/asdfirl22 · 1 pointr/audiophile

Thanks all, look like we're going DIY.

Roxul Rockboard 80, Mineral Wool Board 2" - Case of 6

u/ba12348 · 1 pointr/DIY

Yes it is feasible, but I think you're overthinking it. A single sheet of plywood slightly larger than the window opening with weatherstripping around its perimeter will do just as well at making an airtight seal, then you can cover the plywood with some egg carton style acoustic foam. Basically you're making one of these acoustic panels, then sealing it over the window opening. To get the most out of it you'll need to hold the panel tight against the wall, which means screws or glue. Depending on the wall material screw holes are very easy to patch when the time comes.

u/Furtwangler · 1 pointr/hometheater

I have http://www.amazon.com/Auralex-GRAMMA-Amplifier-Acoustic-Isolation/dp/B0002D0B4U/ref=pd_cp_MI_1, and a 12" Klipsch.

Haven't gotten complains yet, but our floors are concrete so that may play into it. I don't blast it either and just occasionally watch movies that are loud enough to the point where the sub is really noticeable.

u/cframpt21 · 1 pointr/hometheater

Awesome, thanks for the response. Looks like I'll be picking one of these up. There seems to be one dedicated to subwoofers whereas yours is for amps and loudspeakers, is there any reason or is one higher quality?
Edit: These are the two i'm talking about

http://www.amazon.com/Auralex-Subwoofer-Isolation-15x15x3-inch-Charcoal/dp/B001140OZ0/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1376941401&sr=8-7&keywords=Auralex

http://www.amazon.com/Auralex-GRAMMA-Monitor-Isolation-Charcoal/dp/B0002D0B4U/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1376941401&sr=8-8&keywords=Auralex

u/raistlin65 · 1 pointr/audiophile

I'm no expert on this, but have you looked into mass loaded vinyl? For example, https://www.amazon.com/Loaded-Soundproofing-Barrier-Highest-Quality/dp/B007N3356S

u/MonaganX · 1 pointr/videos

Those are sound dampening panels, they're used to improve the audio quality of your recordings, not for fireproofing - though if they're anything like these they have a Class A flame spread rating, which is pretty good (i.e. doesn't burn easily).

u/redthat2 · 1 pointr/hometheater

Thick blackouts and acoustic panels are 100% correct. Also one of these guys for your sub would help tighten the bass up: http://www.amazon.com/Auralex-GRAMMA-Amplifier-Acoustic-Isolation/dp/B0002D0B4U

u/TheRealBillyShakes · 1 pointr/edmproduction

I got these. I love my Rokits and have zero muddiness. I wouldn’t listen to people that straight away tell you “get a sub” without seeing the room first or knowing anything else. My mixes POP and I mix without a sub.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00266HBSU?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/yourofl10 · 1 pointr/homelab

Fan swap, unplug one or two of the fans (inadvisable), sound foam? https://www.amazon.com/Silverback-Sound-Dampening-Foam-Thick/dp/B00MAQNAPY

u/Quasar232 · 1 pointr/audiophile

Before I get into bass traps and treatment and all of that I think this will be my first move. May as well considering its relatively cheap and easy.

Probably gonna go for Auralex, they seem to be the best. http://www.amazon.com/Auralex-MoPAD-XL-Acoustic-Isolation-Charcoal/dp/B00266HBSU

u/zyck_titan · 1 pointr/DataHoarder

option 1: Build your own, you can use wood and add these or something like them to get the mounting holes. this will let you build exactly to the size that you need, and can be done for pretty cheap .

option 2: Startech 25U 4 post rack with wheels

u/Magnus0322 · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Something similar to these:

2 Pack Acoustic Isolation Pads, Studio Monitor Speaker Isolation Foam Pads, Pair of Two High Density Studio Monitor Isolation Pads Pair For 5 Inch Monitors

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H1D66GT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VYp4DbYVZ16SY

u/motoevgen · 1 pointr/homelab

You may try soundproof regular cabinet, with something like this https://www.amazon.com/ATS-Wedge-Acoustic-Panels-Charcoal/dp/B00QH2RJW2

u/D_Legare · 1 pointr/chicago

I don't have exp. with it but have heard mass loaded vinyl is good. Not sure how it compares to just hanging an exra sheet of drywall or layering a brick facade though.

u/michrech · 1 pointr/homelab

After looking at that, I'd rather find / obtain something like this (obviously something bigger / smaller depending on taste / needs), then install some rails of the proper into it, then install your hardware. My previous employer actually did something like this for an Extron / Crestron hybrid automation installation into a credenza for a conference room. They had their maintenance folk install a small / quiet 'muffin fan' into it to provide some air flow.

u/loaba · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Speaker stands are custom built utilizing various Lego and Megablox bricks and plates.

Micca isolation pads are here

u/303onrepeat · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

$450? You can get a 20u rack with out doors for $125. With doors for $300. NavePoint 18U Deluxe IT Wallmount Cabinet Enclosure 19-Inch Server Network Rack With Locking Glass Door 24-Inches Deep Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P4SVZ4S/

u/asciutto · 1 pointr/homelab

I bought them from Amazon through reliable hardware I believe.

I regret not getting the square slots though. I'll find the link for it and edit my comment.

e: http://www.starcase.com/custom_steel_rack_store.htm

A little more expensive for easier mounting, flexibility and compatibility. The cage nuts give you a bit more leeway if your rails aren't mounted 100% perfect.

e2: These are what I bought specifically, but I would still recommend the starcase square slot rails.

u/scooterdog · 1 pointr/hometheater

I've used these Audiolex GRAMMA isolators - it was expensive but worth it in my case - much less 'rattle'. You may want to try it and return it if it doesn't help that much.

u/zezgamer · 1 pointr/PFSENSE

An external logging server will happen a little down the road but not initially. Out of curiosity, did you try a rack shelf like this one?

u/terretta · 1 pointr/homelab

Use Navepoint. Triplite is crazy expensive.

Navepoint 18U Deluxe IT Wallmount Cabinet Enclosure 19-Inch Server Network Rack With Locking Glass Door 24-Inches Deep Black

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P4SVZ4S/

Strong enough to hold your Cyberpower.

u/ocinn · 1 pointr/audiophile

Yeah I know these aren't REAL bass traps or broadband absorbers, but considering the benefit that this simple kit gives, its a pretty good value:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TT7BGQM/

and
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010GPFRUQ/

I made my own bass traps which outperform these and cost less. But if you were on a budget and wanted a noticable improvement, I would buy these.

u/quietcreep · 1 pointr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Get something like this. See if you can find it locally to get a better price.

Owens Corning 706 or 703 does well, too, but it's usually a little more expensive.

Wrap it in a breathable (important) fabric like these. If you don't want to pay the premium for tested/fire treated fabric, get your own at a fabric store.

If you go DIY, I'd recommend applying fire treatment spray to the fabric before wrapping. If you don't, I'm sorry that your basement went up in flames, but please don't sue me.

You can wall mount them with something like this. Make sure to get the ones with standoffs to get the air gap. That air gap makes a significant difference.

If you don't want to buy enough to treat the whole room, just figure out the pickup pattern of your mic (cardioid), and place panels as close as you can in that pattern, leaving room for yourself. For a wide-ish cardioid pattern like the 57, you should place panels behind and to the sides of you, everywhere but the back of the mic.

Use what you know about your room and your mics to make clever decisions.

u/a_n_jp · 1 pointr/macsetups

Bought these isolation pads for the micca mb42x speakers. Makes a huuuge difference. So thanks everyone who told me I was an idiot for not having them before

I posted about a month ago my "standing" setup, a couple of people wanted to see how it looks in regular "sit" mode.

Didn't mention previous post, but this monitor is amazing for sit/stand setups. The arm moves up and down with just 2 fingers, virtually no wobble too! So I have it on the lowest setting in sit mode, and extend it all the way in stand mode. Here is a more direct comparison https://imgur.com/a/XB71Iik.

u/jkm970 · 1 pointr/audioengineering

I was searching for some on amazon. Do you think https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KNWTPRI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A22FIXQJK49KP9&psc=1

Will be okay? they fit the stand almost perfectly and the Genelec 8330's aren't that big compared to a normal 5inch monitor!

u/omapuppet · 1 pointr/CarAV

I had good results on a full-sized van for about $350 using a box of Dynamat for $150 and a roll of MLV for $200. I was able to reuse the foam already on the floor.

I tried to get about a 30% coverage with the dynamat, focusing a little more on panels that sounded louder when I tapped them (like the wheel wells). I know in cost-is-no-object installs they go for, like, 120% coverage, but a more conservative approach seemed to work just fine for me.

I did 100% of the floor and up the firewall with the MLV, and then hung it most of the way up inside the walls. I didn't do inside the front doors because lazy, and also because on this vehicle the thin single-barrier door seals are the main source of cabin noise.

Good results for the money IMO, it makes my 1991 van sound a lot more like a modern vehicle. Road and exhaust noise is greatly reduced. I still get a lot of wind noise from those damned door seals, but you won't have that issue on relatively modern Excursion.

u/JohnCrichton · 1 pointr/hometheater

Congratulations, this is looking great! I love the Klipsch speakers but would echo the idea of having an AT screen.

Have you considered putting an AV rack in? If you're not above patching some drywall, I would put in a rack with your DVD player, receiver, a HTPC, and whatever else. This one has been good to me - it looks great, has a glass door, and plenty of room. Some RGB lighting running the length of the room or smart lights would be a nice touch as well.

u/black-buhr · 1 pointr/homelabsales

I have these.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JZCWX3Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Work fine with an r710 and r420s. I'm going to be selling my r710 so I won't need one. I'm near Newport Beach, HB, Orange County.

I can let two of them go. 30 bucks for both?

u/SteroidSurge · 0 pointsr/singing

I'm honestly not sure... In my personal experience, it helps to have something to absorb the sound, like a carpet. I have a drum kit in my room, and I moved a carpet in there some time ago, which definitely made a difference in the sound resistance.

I'm also pretty sure acoustic wedges like this are generally a standard in soundproofing a room. Hope this helps!

u/DeviceNotReady · 0 pointsr/techsupportgore

red box, you are so unmountable. Here have a shelf