Best recording studio rack accessories according to redditors

We found 168 Reddit comments discussing the best recording studio rack accessories. We ranked the 52 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Recording Studio Rack Accessories:

u/cjalas · 290 pointsr/homelab

Rack ‘Em Up (Story Time. Skip to Pt.2 for the gritty)

There I was, fitzing around with my new server rack, wiring up my 24-port L2 switch... when the realization dawned on me... I don’t have enough connections to my network switch.

After all, what kind of server rack doesn’t have TONS of patch cables coming out the wazoo? A weak, pathetic excuse for a rack, that’s what. And I was determined not to have a weak, pathetic excuse of a rack. Nay. My rack would be muscular, and NETWORKED.

So of course I decided to build a server cluster — using single board computers (although at the time it wasn’t obvious to use SBCs).

Money Shot


What a Cluster F***

Thus, my research began. I searched the googles high and low for information on server clusters. “How can I maximize my rack space AND fill up my ports?”, I asked myself. Good question. At first, I wanted to go full cluster and try my hands at mITX blade servers. Bad idea.

I mean, the idea is good, but I’m not made of money. This server already put me in the hole for around $3k, and I’m just a student, damn it. I kept harping on that mITX blade server idea for a good two months or so, until I finally gave up the quest. It did present me with some interesting concepts along the way, however...


It’s So Small

That’s what she said. Ahem. During my googlization, I stumbled across some brilliant server cluster builds, ranging from the grotesquely large, to the obscenely expensive. Most of the setups I saw, looked really cool, sure; but they all seemed to be missing something.... “hotswap-ability”.

A clear picture of what I wanted to build, was formed in my head.
It had to be small. It had to use minimal power draw. It had to be PoE friendly. It had to be expandable. And most of all, it had to be hotswappable. Single Board Computers to the rescue! Now, I had to figure out how I wanted to mount them.


Hot-swap Or Not

Early on in my foray to building a server rack, I made sure that everything I did was modular — or as close to modular as I could get it. One such aspect of servers that I absolutely loved, was the ability to hot swap hard drives in/out of most server cases and storage arrays.

Three storage arrays and a few server chassis‘ later, I put my knowledge of drive caddies to good use. I knew now how I was going to get my SBCs mounted — why, I would just use a case with hotswap drive trays to create a server cluster!

Easier said than done, of course.


The Price Is Right

Six. Months. Later.... Nerve wracking. Brain wrecking. I just couldn’t find the right case, at the right depth and RU size, at the right price, to fit my needs of a server cluster.

It needed to be CHEAP. It needed to be hackable. It needed to be CHEAP.

Nothing I found online met my needs. Sure, I could buy a server chassis like that from Norco, or Supermicro, or Rosewill, but... those be EXPENSIVE. And most of them are full sized cases in length. I only had 10 inches of space to work with. That’s what she said.

Finally after much googifiying and eBay hunting, I believed I had come across THE ONE. It was a fine specimen, to be sure; sleek metal edges. Hefty, sturdy. Used but, not damaged. Cheap, but not a floozy. It had class, it had stamina. It had trays included.

It was a NetApp DS14MK2 Disk Shelf.

Looking back, I probably should have looked closer. I should have done more research. But, as with all things we fall in love with, I was blinded by my need, nay. My desire — for a cluster of servers. I thought that this handsome DS14MK2 could give me what I yearned for. So I bought it, and waited my delivery eagerly.

Boy, was I wrong.




Pt. 2 — The Gritty Details

Cut My Life Into Pieces

This was it. This was my last resort. Everything I had done up until now, all the time and money and sweat and googleringadings I had done, boiled down to this NetApp DS14MK2. See, when I bought it, I had believed I would be capable of simply removing the front half — the drive tray cage half — from the rest of the chassis. Then I’d simply... pop the drive caddies in, along with my mini pc’s, and voila! How naive.

The DS14MK2 practically laughed at my naïveté. It knew — it knew that it could not be split in half. And I had not the willpower, nor the tool power, to cut him in half. So I did the next best thing: I gutted the little m@#&^f#&$#ker like a fish.



  • Step 1: First, I had to pop the rivets holding the innards in place. And pop the rivets I did. Oh boy, I did. Using a handheld drill, I drilled right through all the rivets on that smug disk array’s ... array. This let me access the plastic trays used to slide the hard drive caddies in. There were two plastic trays, one top and one bottom. I pulled those out gently — these were my pearls. I fished around inside to see if there was anything else I needed. There was not. I dumped the rest.

    Reference Photo


  • Step 2: Now I had my all important trays, I needed to put them into something more... accomodating. Right away I knew that I would need a similar 3U height case, but only ten inches in length... tough to find. And find, I did not. So I built my own case! Hehehe. I was able to locate a 3U sliding cabinet and a plain ‘ol 1U solid rack shelf, both exactly 10” in length.

  • Then I gutted the 3U cabinet, and kept just the top half.
  • Then I grabbed the 1U shelf, and the 3U Cabinet-Top-Half, and just... smushed them together. Literally. With a mallet. And I stepped on it. With my feet. And more mallet smushing.

    And so, a new 3U case was born. What an ugly child it was.

    Reference Photo


  • Step 3: Attaching the DS14MK2 plastic tray sliders to the inside of my Franken-case. This proved a bit tricky, since I had to do a lot of hole drilling into the new-fangled case. But it was made a lot easier due to the plastic trays having mounting holes already, so I just placed them inside, marked the holes with a marker, and drilled away. Drill baby, drill!
    Note: I did have to use some M3 standoffs underneath both plastic trays in order to get everything to fit at the right height. Also I used some steel epoxy putty to keep all the nuts and bolts firmly bolted in place.

    Reference Photo


  • Step 4: Now with the case pretty much complete, I fit it into the rack and.... crap. I needed a backplane. After much hemming and hawing, I finally settled on a “ghetto”-fabulous method of attaching each drive caddy to a “backplane”... that is, I used a 3U blank keystone patch panel. Bent gently on the sides to create “rack ears”, and then drilled some holes onto the side of the chassis and bolted the patch panel into place. This allowed me to attach RJ45 female coupler keystones and utilize them as pass-through connections via RJ45 patch cables internally, and route everything out the back with more RJ45 cables (6ft) to my PoE injectors lower on the rack.

    Reference Photo

    Reference Photo



    Watch Out For the POE POE

    Now that I had everything securely mounted in the rack, I needed to get power AND Ethernet to each drive caddy / node. PoE to the rescue! This was a fun part of my build. First, I bought a few 4-port Gigabit PoE Injectors, 48v.

    Since each R-Pi consumes around 2 amps of current (depending on the usage), I didn’t want to overload the POE system with something like a 16-port PoE switch or one big PoE injector. That’s why I opted to daisy-chain multiple PoE injectors, so each “block” of PoE would be able to provide the rated amount of amperage for every four (4) nodes.

    The PoE injectors get their juice from the Mac Daddy 48v 7.2amp 350watt switching power supply. Since by this point I was salivating at the mouth to get my server cluster up and running, everything gets mounted with 2” heavy duty Velcro. Yea, that happened.

    Since they’re daisy chained (via 2.1mm barrel DC plug jacks), I can easily swap them out if needed, and I also have enough space for a second 48v PSU if needed as well.

    Close Up of PoE Injectors

    Front view of PoE Daisy chain system

    More PoE Daisy Chain


    ***


    Continued on new comment thread. . . (FU Reddit).

u/nalybuites · 123 pointsr/cableporn

Here's the composition of the rack:

  • NavePoint 12U Network Rack
  • TP-Link TL-SG1024: 24 port rackmount switch
  • TP-Link TL-SG1016PE: 16 port rackmount power over ethernet switch (needed for the Wi-Fi access points)
  • TP-Link TL-R600VPN: Rackmount router w/ dual-WAN and VPN
  • Rackmount Power w/ surge protection
  • Rack shelf: Used to hold modem and NAS
  • Patch Panel: 24-port Cat6 patch panel (wires go in the pack via punchdown connection, and you run patch cables to the switches)
  • 12" Patch cables: For connecting between the patch panel, swicthes, other on-rack devices
  • Synology 416play NAS: Movies, music, pictures, etc. 32 TB in all.

    Elsewhere in the house/other useful parts:

  • Keystone Cat6 jacks: one per bedroom, 4 in my home office, 4 in the media room (not built yet), 3 in the family room
  • 1-, 2-, 3-, and 4-hole keystone wall plates: Buy the number of holes you want and just pop in the keystone jacks
  • Blank keystone inserts: For when you have too many holes in the keystone plates
  • Ubiquiti AC Pro x 3: Wi-Fi access points, roughly center of the house on each floor (basement, first, second)
  • Punchdown tool: For doing the punchdown connections on the patch panel and on each of the keystone Cat6 plugs in each room
  • Extra rack screws and washers
  • J-Hook: There are two hooks on each wall, holding service loops for the Cat6 and Coax, respectively.

    Useful things I learned:

  • I was originally going to run the wires myself, but never could find the time. Also Cat6 is expensive when not purchased in wholesale quantities (< 10,000 ft). So we hired a local electrician to run the actual wires. It took two of them about 1.5 days to run everything. This was well worth the money, since the project would have taken many months to do in the evenings/on weekends with a toddler running around.
  • I did all the wall terminations. Since they were punchdowns, it was easy and took one evening after work. The electricians would have charged me another half-day of labor.
  • I did all the network rack work. This also took one evening after work.
  • Do NOT buy electrical/networking equipment from a big box hardware store. Always go to a specialized retailer, like an electrician supply store. Their prices will be 1/20th that of the big box store, you won't have to have anything shipped, and their employees actually know what they are talking about. So if you're looking for something that you don't know the name of, you can usually describe it.
  • Newer construction may have fire breaks/blocks/stops which prevent fire and gases from traveling up the inside of the walls. This makes fire move more slowly and give you more time to evacuate. However, it also means you might need to drill holes/patch walls in order to run wires vertically.
  • Put in a service loop. If you ever need to re-terminate for any reason (like replacing a patch panel), it will give you extra cable to work with. Do the same thing inside your walls behind the wall plates, since you might have to do the same thing there as well.
  • Buy networking gear that is rated for the same speed (i.e., gigabit). Your network will only be as fast as the slowest part of it.
  • Watch out for network loops. This is really easy to do and will cause your router to crash or perform suboptimally. I spent >2 hours debugging on of these as a result of connecting my router to itself by way of both switches.
u/lysolosyl · 29 pointsr/homelab

I mostly used this guide - https://tombuildsstuff.blogspot.com/2014/02/diy-server-rack-plans.html?m=1

The 20U rails on Amazon - Reliable Hardware Company RH-20-SRR-A 20U Full Hole 20 Space Rack Rail Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ18OVS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hPG7Ab276K7A2

The wheels on Amazon - Swivel Caster Wheels Rubber Base with Top Plate & Bearing Heavy Duty with Total Lock Brake Pack of 4 Black by Online Best Service (2.5" With Brake) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N45QP3Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0PG7AbTNSG1AW

The shelf on Amazon - AC Infinity Vented Cantilever 2U Universal Rack Shelf, for 19” equipment racks. Heavy-Duty 2.4mm Cold Rolled Steel, 100lbs Capacity. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C9L3K18/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LQG7Ab7SMH2JA

The wood I got isn't normal 2x4's, but instead 1 1/4 x 3 pine. It's the wood in the back of Home Depot that costs $20 per 8 foot board but worth it due to them being a lot straighter. I used 4 boards to complete this.

I used 2" Kreg screws with my Kreg Jig. The mounting depth for the rails is 21.5".

u/captainmike5 · 24 pointsr/networking

In a pinch I've used rack shelves from places like Fry's. Is that an option? Something similar to: https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-Cantilever-Universal-Heavy-Duty/dp/B01C9KYUG8

u/ComputerSavvy · 8 pointsr/homelab

They're not being shitty but being truthful. A lot of telcom and professional audio / video recording studio gear used threaded hole racks but the computer industry pretty much standardized on square mounting holes that ball bearing sliding rails snap into as well as using cage nuts that fit square holes.

You can use a round hole rack for computer equipment but he'll need to buy several sets of L bracket shelves to hold his gear. You can buy round hole to square hole adapter brackets so a square hole sliding rail set can mount to the frame but now that free rack suddenly becomes more expensive each time a piece of gear is added to it.

He'll also have to go to Ace Hardware, buy a few different sized machine screws and try them out until he finds the right diameter and thread pitch that will fit his rack. It could be 10-32 or 12-24.

I'm in the market for a rack and every time I see one for sale that has round holes, I close the tab for the reasons I outlined above.

It looks as if the round hole sections can be removed, if he can find a square hole conversion kit that will fit, then it was a good deal to get it.

u/Madmartigan1 · 6 pointsr/Ubiquiti

I put mine on a 1U shelf and just put one rack ear on each on the small switches.

Here's a pic..

Make sure you get a shelf that doesn't have a lip. It needs to be full 1U height like this one:

Raxxess RAX UNS1 Vented Universal Rack Tray Shelf for 19" Server Racks, with Bottom Slots for Mounting Non-Rack and Half-Rack Equipment

u/sekazi · 5 pointsr/gaming

Pretty much all rack mount stuff. The box itself I made. You can get the AV Keystone jacks and 48 port plate at Monoprice. The rails, screws, additional plates and rack mounted power supplies from Amazon.

http://www.monoprice.com/category?c_id=104&cp_id=10426

http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=8630

http://www.amazon.com/Technical-Pro-PS9U-Supply-Charging/dp/B0057RL6DQ

http://www.amazon.com/Reliable-Hardware-Company-RH-6-SRR-Space/dp/B00JQYUI7G

http://www.amazon.com/Reliable-Hardware-Company-RH-RMSET-25-Washers/dp/B00JQYUAQU

http://www.amazon.com/16port-Blank-Panel-Keystone-Jack/dp/B00PEKNW2Y

http://www.amazon.com/kenable-Cable-Management-Universal-Cabinet/dp/B004HTHL20

http://www.amazon.com/CNAweb-Blank-Spacer-Mount-Filler/dp/B01B1T0RZG

http://www.amazon.com/Odyssey-APV01-Space-Panel-Accessory/dp/B0002DV0CW

I had a pile of the keystone jacks from a previous purchase a couple years ago so I did not have to get a whole lot of them. The toslink keystone jack has a issue of popping out which is solved using a zip tie to hold it in.

u/wolffstarr · 5 pointsr/homelab

Unless you're planning to add a metric ton of stuff into that rack, I would humbly suggest you get thee some Rail Shelves at least for the ESXi server; if it's supporting the HP, it deserves to have some more support than the rack ears it comes with.

Note they do eat a fraction of a rack unit because they're bumping up the server, but you can do 3 or 4 and still be down less than a single RU.

Sorry, it's a really nice setup and very cleanly set up, but the lack of backside support is making my skin crawl for some reason. :)

u/thelosttech · 5 pointsr/sysadmin
u/Boosh_The_Almighty · 5 pointsr/homelab

Super cool, I'll be there soon myself.

Quick question, wooden shelf on rails? What wizard must I quest for to obtain this sort of thing? Is it basically a 19" wide board screwed into spare rails? Or maybe something a bit higher tech like https://www.amazon.com/NavePoint-Adjustable-Mount-Server-Shelves/dp/B0060RUVBA

u/cosmos7 · 4 pointsr/homelab

> How do I get a server rails fit on this?

Most of the time you won't be able to. Server equipment is generally meant for square-hole racks, and most OEM rails will not fit a round-hole (telco/network) rack.

What you can do is buy L-bracket rails for servers to sit on. The servers won't clip or lock in, but at least they're supported. I would not stack too many servers on a single set of L-brackets though.

u/Neilas · 4 pointsr/homelab

From Amazon, it's a NavePoint 1U Cantilever shelf

u/tedder42 · 4 pointsr/homelab

I didn't get enough either. You can see I stuck a few in the divider between the mobo and drives so I knew which ones went there. I'll check today and let you know, I have a really good (labeled) bolt collection so I should be able to figure it out.

Rackmounting- I just mounted these rails and slide it in on that.

u/kill-dash-nine · 4 pointsr/homelab

So when I originally moved in to my house last year, I set things up in a very temporary setup that became more permanent than I was hoping. I also had to bring another box home from my office when we moved locations and we no longer had a dedicated internet connection so I couldn't expose anything directly to the internet.

I've been looking at setups from everyone for a while now, getting ideas of what I needed and I finally settled on the following:

u/-eddy · 3 pointsr/homelab

Something generic like This should work? Not as pretty but $50 less.

u/bz0qyz · 3 pointsr/Ubiquiti
u/tollsjo · 3 pointsr/homelab

There are plenty of generic rack rails available. Here's an example: https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-4POSTRAIL-4-Post-Universal-Mount/dp/B00TCELZTK

u/TheBobWiley · 3 pointsr/homelab

The rosewill rails are hard to come by, its easier to just use these:

http://smile.amazon.com/NavePoint-Adjustable-Mount-Server-Shelves/dp/B0060RUVBA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1458500710&sr=8-3&keywords=adjustable+server+rails

They like to prevent stuff from perfectly fitting in the 1U beneath them (they stick down 1-2mm into the 1U below them), so if your rack is packed, they may not fit.

u/scott-42 · 3 pointsr/homelab

This is my new ethernet networking hub in the new house. I had two Cat6 and one RG-6 pulled to every drop and have 14 drops throughout the house. All of the ethernet drops (red and yellow in the top right of the picture) run to this cabinet and the RG-6 go to a panel to the lower right of this with the cable modem and firewall (pfSense). The house is a two story with a walk out basement and this cabinet is in a storage room next the to the stairs in the finished basement.

Equipment:

u/LBriar · 3 pointsr/audioengineering

If you're broke and moderately handy, these are a cheap way to make your own rack or generally mount audio things to other things.

u/HyruleVet · 3 pointsr/JDM_WAAAT

I just mounted a L4000 in my middle Atlantic rack. My rack is enclosed MRK-4426.

I used these rails and they worked great with no modifications. Just had to make sure the mounting brackets were bent correctly to make sure the case slides in and out smoothly.

If you had threaded round post like I do the M4 screws fit through the 10-32 holes so I didn’t even have to drill out the mounting holes.

The case shouldn’t be a problem in the rear. If you can slide it through the front post the rear post should be fine.

Worst case you can use something like this. I didn’t want to go this route because I wanted the cool sliding feature and using this kind of mount may take away 1U since it’ll raise it a little bit. I used a set of APC rails first and I didn’t like the way it sat, so I ordered the sliding rails instead.

Let me know if there’s anything you need to know. Whether it be measurements or whatever.

u/cjkeeme · 3 pointsr/homelab

Actually for audio equipment, but had the right dimensions and look I wanted:

Procraft 4U 9" Deep Equipment... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CEUHV14?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/btrocke · 3 pointsr/homelab

I got it on Amazon

u/03891223 · 2 pointsr/homelab

I use lacks (the bedside ones, something like 20" x20") and haven't had a problem with warping. I use one stacked on top of the other so the top one holds my keyboard and monitor.


I also use the Bygels to hold one of my r710's up, but I had to replace the legs with wood. I remember a few months back someone commented on how Ikea wasn't producing/carrying Bygel rails anymore. I'll try to find the comment. I haven't been to an Ikea since, so I can't confirm if this is true or not.



Obviously, with the bedside one, most servers will stick out the back. My r710's stick out ~8" I believe. It hasn't given me troubles though.


The Rast may be worth bringing up. I've seen a few people get these and install something like these to mount your hardware. This guide might be useful to you. I've been thinking of doing something like this, with one rast behind the other, but since my lack situation is still not giving me issues, I haven't really had a reason to switch.

u/Reptilian_Overlords · 2 pointsr/sysadmin

Depends on how heavy the device is.

Ears commonly lead to machines sagging in their enclosure over time for some bigger equipment like switches and routers. I got cheap Navepoint rails that support each device so that when I do unscrew them from the racks, I can just easily slide them out.

https://www.amazon.com/NavePoint-Adjustable-Mount-Server-Shelves/dp/B0060RUVBA

Though to be honest you should see if your OEM sells rails for your equipment first. Mine didn't, so that's why I went with these. Also look for flush screws so you can get the device itself as close to the cage nut as possible.

u/Okeur75 · 2 pointsr/networking

Ok guys, first thank you all for your answers. It was really helpful and I was going to do some mistakes without you. So thank you all!


To sum up thanks to all your advice, for all buildings we will have the following:

  • Trunk cable coming from outside;
  • Splice enclosure with 16 strands going per building;
  • Drop cable entering the building;
  • Pig tail;
  • Enclosure panel with adapter strip SC;
  • Patch cable SC -> LC;
  • Switch with transceiver LC.


    One more question for the server room:


    What kind of enclosure panel should I use ? I'll have ~300 strands to terminate. The same you recommended for the building but I put it 5 times ? amazon link
u/donkeytime · 2 pointsr/hometheater

The NavePoint 22U IT Wall Mount Network Server Data Cabinet Rack Glass Door Locking Casters comes with both casters and wall mount hardware. You can run it with any combination of sides, back and door. Buy one that's a bit bigger than you think you need. Buy some StarTech 2U Universal Vented Rack Mount Cantilever Shelf for 19-Inch Server Racks shelves and maybe a drawer

u/Fett2 · 2 pointsr/homelab

Another on the cheap option.
This are 1U shelves which you can mount in your rack, and then stick any standard size rack mount device on top of. I'm using these for almost all my devices.

u/justdiver · 2 pointsr/homelab

I ended up using something like this I found at a garage sale. The ones I have are a little more robust but they have no markings so I'm not sure who makes/sells them.

I was really disappointed with the screws that came with the case too. I sheared the head off two of them while attaching the motherboard to the inside. The case itself is fine, it just seems like all the extra stuff is the lowest possible quality.

u/TheBloodEagleX · 2 pointsr/homelab

These options from Kenuco I think are really great value: https://www.amazon.com/Kenuco-Standing-Open-Frame-Wheels/dp/B07BL57SWP

u/transam617 · 2 pointsr/CabaloftheBuildsmiths

>Navepoint 18U cabinet 19-inch

https://www.amazon.com/Navepoint-Wallmount-Cabinet-Enclosure-24-Inches/dp/B00P4SVZ4S

Most 4u cases should fit, but I don't think this is going to be a quiet build...

u/Apple--Sauce · 2 pointsr/homelab

4x of these will set you back only $120.

u/_R2-D2_ · 2 pointsr/homelab
u/NeoTr0n · 2 pointsr/homelab

Speaking of this one - do you have rails? I don’t but I really think it needs it. It sags a bit. I read reviews that the rosewill rails aren’t good.

Basically many reviews stating they are sized wrong.

Any ideas? Perhaps I’ll just get another set of these: NavePoint 1U Adjustable 4-Post Rack Mount Server Shelf Rails Full Depth Set Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JZCWX3Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_oAM2BbQG6GASN

Main issue with those is that when I had a server on them they pushed on the server below and forced me to remove both if I wanted to work on then bottom one. In this case I don’t actually have an issue with this since there’s nothing below it.

u/drashna · 2 pointsr/homelab

You mean like this?

u/Fuzzybunnyofdoom · 2 pointsr/sysadmin

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008LUW49G?psc=1

Anything non-rackable gets put on a shelf. I usually use command strips to secure the item so it doesn't slide around.

u/gardnsound · 2 pointsr/battlestations

I built it using an ikea "rast" nightstand and two 6u rack rails.

u/macboost84 · 2 pointsr/homelab

I use these:

https://www.amazon.com/Odyssey-ARS1-Space-Shelf-Accessory/dp/B0002DV0G8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1477967657&sr=8-1&keywords=odyssey+1u+shelf

Works great for non-rack stuff.

When I build new racks with equipment, I typically install 2. One to put my tools, tape, etc on and the other for my laptop when configuring devices.

u/KnightontheSun · 2 pointsr/HomeServer

I would just use something basic like this:

https://www.amazon.com/NavePoint-Adjustable-4-Post-Mount-Server/dp/B00JZCWX3Q

I have something very similar under my Norco. I just don't pull the chassis out very far or at all. I can access anything inside easily enough from the sides or top. It sits just atop my SuperMicro.

u/Ryylon · 2 pointsr/homelab

Unfortunately the only thing synology makes that is rackable is huge money. You could switch to a DIY system like UnRAID or FreeNAS, but that’s a considerable amount of time and effort. What I ended up doing before switching to Unraid was using a shelf and then a 4U tall door in front of my old NAS, so it was hidden from view.


I bought this shelf;

NavePoint Fixed Rack Vented Server Shelf 1U 19 Inch 4 Post Rack Mount Adjustable from 17-33 Inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6JQYDG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_r3N1Db9FN51ZP


And this this door:

StarTech.com Blanking Panel - 4U - Hinged Rack Panel - 19in - Steel - Black - TAA Compliant - Tool-less Installation (RKPNLHS4U) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0109IWXXO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_43N1Db4RP8ABV

So it ended up looking like this:

https://imgur.com/a/pkr2qjN

Hope that helps!

u/the_super_tech · 2 pointsr/homelab

NavePoint Adjustable Rack Mount Server Shelf Shelves Rail Rails 1U https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0060RUVBA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_10vRzbR1DB9JA

Shelves are your best friend :)

u/caiuscorvus · 2 pointsr/homelab

What he said: heavy stuff up top makes it easier to tip over.

Generally, if they are only 12-18ish inches deep and don't come with rails, then they're fine with being on two posts.

If you are still uncomfortable for whatever reason feel free to buy some 4-post shelves.

Even 2-post shelves are usually rated for 50#, some for 100#.

Edit:To secure the Yamaha receivers, I might consider unscrewing the feet and drilling some holes in a rack shelf or rails to bolt into the same. This way everything can be secure if you have to move the rack around.

Edit 2: Lastly, and I'm sure you know this, some of these receivers call for 30cm of space above for proper ventilation: they're not designed for rack mount. So I would mount some fans on the back and close any excess open slots to pull air across the top of the devices.

u/BLUElightCory · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

Try a Universal Rackmount Tray.

If for some reason the holes in the Big Knob don't fit the tray, use a piece of industrial velcro with the tray and that thing won't move at all.

u/port53 · 2 pointsr/homelab

So, in my thread about this the other day /u/Mad_X suggested replacing the posts with these, which when priced out look to be about $76.80 for a pair.

They're 42U, but maybe they have 44U as well. Or maybe 42U would be ok for you anyway, and you'd just have space at the top/bottom.

Edit: Here they are on Amazon at $79.80 + $18.50 shipping for a pair of 2 posts ($196.60 for all 4 + shipping.)

Edit 2: Here they are on eBay for $78.94 and free shipping, so you'd be looking at $157.88 total. I'd do it now, but I just looked closer at my rack and it's not possible to do this. You may have the same problem. The front/back "posts" are actually built in to the rack directly and can't be removed, so while there is room and a place to put adjustable posts inside, my rack only has 1 set of adjustable posts for the back, the front of the gear can only be mounted on the very front of the rack, where the round holes are. The ears of servers won't go past them. I guess that's why they sell in pairs.

u/deriachai · 2 pointsr/homelab

I cannot confirm about the Norco ones specifically, but I got a set of these link for some supermicro chassis I have.

Much better than spending the 70 dollars for official ones.

u/ruckertopia · 2 pointsr/homelab

I just used a set of these (they make a couple different versions) for my Netapp DS4243: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JZCWX3Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/derfmcdoogal · 2 pointsr/homelab

honestly, you're going to spend an arm and a leg hoping to get the right parts. Just get some shelf rails and call it a day.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JZCWX3Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/SystemWhisperer · 2 pointsr/homelab

I think it depends on whether OP needs all 12U of that rack, or is willing to trade some density for lower cost.

"Generic rails" tend to be more like 0U shelves. I bought some of these and I like them, but there is a density cost. The piece that holds the server from beneath is thicker than the clearance between most 1U or 2U servers, so if you have two of these right next each other, the upper one will have to be fudged up to leave room for the server below. Because of standard rack hole spacing, you can only do this 1-2 times before you have to leave a blank space above. That works fine for me, but needs vary.

AFAICT, all rack-mount server models have different means of securing to their intended rails, not to mention side-to-side spacing. I don't think there's a way to make a set of generic rails that supports only from the side instead of supporting from below.

u/el_buzzsaw · 2 pointsr/homelab

I ordered one of these racks about 2 years ago when I wired up my house and finished my home office:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6JQV8Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

my only hangup on it (and you can actually see it on a review) was that the screws that came with the rack were junk, and I had to go out to get new ones that actually would fit right.


also using:

this patch panel - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072K1OWY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

this shelf - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008LUW4CI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and this cable manager - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HJTTOH4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

wish I had photos of the little get-up in my closet for you. I've got a basic 4-outlet battery backup powering my ISP modem, my router, managed 24 port switch, and the seagate single-drive NAS we use.


one day i'd like to get one a bit bigger so it can also support the pi server that's also sitting on that shelf and the POE injectors for my APs.

u/SilentWalrus1 · 1 pointr/homelab

You could always get a 1u half length shelf.

Here

u/seenliving · 1 pointr/homelab

I'm installing a rackmount UPS soon too and I plan on using the shelf below. It supports up to 200 lbs which should be more than enough for your model.

NavePoint 1U Rack Mount 4-Post Shelf Rail Full Depth - 33.5" deep https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XXDHPEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JoIKAbPKRTFYZ

u/dakoellis · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

> How should I finish the ethernet cables?

Like another person said, use keystones. Don't use toolless as they are pretty crappy but just get a cheap punchdown tool and keystones for each room.
I would personally use a patch panel where the cables are going to be run to, but it wouldn't be necessary if you're only going to be running them how you initially explained.

> Can there be any conflict between the wifi of my router and the wifi of the APs?

There can, but they should be able to figure it out on their own. That said, if you're using APs (or WAPs as I call them at work, for Wireless Access Point, sorry about the change in terminology), you should just use a wired router instead of one with Wifi. No reason to add another component and interface to your situation.

> Good to know. From what I read, the usual setup is to have Ubiquiti controller installer on a computer running 24/7. So this is only for logging stats, is that right?

Pretty much. I don't think many people are running an actual computer 24/7 just for the software but do it if they have a server running 24/7 already, or just put it on a raspberry pi instead if they really need it.

> So all the APs get the same configuration? They are all configured with the same settings? No need to configure them differently?


> And if I set the SSID and the security for the APs to be the same as the one from my router wifi, everything will appear as one and only one network and there will be no waiting time from the time when I'm connected to one AP and get connected to another one while moving? Also, how will that switch from one AP to the other be done? Will it be automatic or no? Will it be the APs that will determine when to change one device from one AP to the other or the device itself that will "take de decision"?


Unless you want to do something different in a specific part of the house (i.e. guest access not everywhere) then yes. You just leave channels to auto, give every ap the same ssid, and you're devices will automatically switch freely among them. The devices make that decision, but the APs will sorta "help" determine when they should.

> What is a "WAP"? Also, if on the ceiling, I guess it should be in an open area rather than in the corner of a room? I would prefer to install them in the corner of a room in order to make them more "invisible", but I don't want to impact the wifi coverage/speed...

Sorry again, WAP is just what we call Wireless Access Points at work, because we have wired ports labeled Access Points as well. You can definitely install them on walls as well, but the devices are designed to radiate signals stronger in a specific direction. That is usually every direction but directly behind them, which means if you put it on a centrally located wall, the side of the house in front of it will have a stronger signal than the side behind it. You can place them closer to the edge of the house and be pretty good, but you might need to add an extra one to get as good of coverage.

> Do you think the new chip will be integrated in device shortly (the house will still be probably open until june...)?

No need to worry about that. The idea is to run as many cables in the walls as you'll ever need, so you can change tings like a router or APs super easily by just unplugging the old one and plugging in the new one. I don't think they will be popular enough in devices by june to be worth getting yet. probably closer to 2 years.

> A PoE switch seems nice. What is there to look for when buying one?

Definitely. There's 2 types of PoE switches: passive and active. passive switches are cheap and will damage any device that gets plugged into it that doesn't work with the same voltage. Try to stay away from these. Active switches support either 802.1af or 802.1at. Basically you want to make sure your switch and AP support the same type of active PoE. You can plug in anything to these switches without worry. Yes, you'll want to install it right next to your router and run cables to all of your rooms that way.

> Do I need to have ventilation for a PoE switch? Also, there is some that get installed into a rack, but I think this is more for a "pro/business" installation. However, does a PoE switch can be wall mounted?

Don't think of them as "pro/business" models. You seem to be building a large modern house, and having everything centralized will make your life SOOO much easier. I have a much smaller house and have a 24 port switch in my garage. You can just sit it on top of something, or you can make a mini rack, like I did. Just bought a pair of these and secured them to a plate of aluminum. It has my router, a patch panel, and my house switch installed on it, and is sitting on a shelf, although when I get the time and drive I'll mount it to the wall with some shelf arms. As for ventilation, look for the temperature rating on them. The lowest max temp I've ever seen is 40°C/104°F so should be fine in a living space, but depending on where you live might not be in an attic or garage. That said, my garage gets about 115/120°F on the hottest days and I haven't had an issue with my swtich.

>In general, is it better to run distinct ethernet cables with a RJ45 jack on each end or to buy a full spool of ethernet cable and put a RJ45 manually to each end?

Just to reiterate, you want to attach keystones at the very least to the living space side, and either the same thing or a patch panel where they are being run to. Will give you a much more professional look than a hole with cables. People will see it and not notice it, as opposed to seeing it and thinking "they have a hole in their wall already!"

u/fishheads88 · 1 pointr/synthesizers

i use these because they're very cheap without being junk:
https://www.amazon.com/Procraft-Deep-Equipment-Rack-Space/dp/B01CEUHV14


make sure to check your depth, i don't know if rackmount synths are deeper than effects units and stuff

u/MemeLovingLoser · 1 pointr/homelab

For my first rack I put something like these [https://www.amazon.com/Reliable-Hardware-Company-RH-6-SRR-Space/dp/B00JQYUI7G] on a wood frame and it worked well. Yeah they are the threaded "AV" holes but I never had an issue from it, even with my 4U Rosewill FreeNas box.

u/SpyShadow · 1 pointr/NiceHash

Upon looking at that picture more closely, I realized they are not even using rails at all but using more of some type of 1u shelving where they just slide the cases in and out, seems like less of the hassle vs rails. Wonder if I can find that on amazon.

thinking these > https://www.amazon.com/NavePoint-Adjustable-Mount-Server-Shelves/dp/B0060RUVBA/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518819818&sr=1-2&keywords=1u+shelving

u/MudHutMafioso · 1 pointr/audioengineering

Rack-mount interface for $200.00 is going to be hard. Consider a rack shelf.

https://www.amazon.com/NavePoint-Cantilever-Server-Vented-Shelves/dp/B008LUW49G/

u/A_Real_NSA_Analyst · 1 pointr/homelab

I use these: NavePoint Cantilever Server Shelf Vented Shelves Rack Mount 19 Inch 1U Black 10 Inches (250mm) deep https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008LUW49G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Lg3pDbREW9TV5

u/LeKKeR80 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

First, pop off the wall plate and verify that the ethernet ports are using all 4 pairs of wires and if they follow the A or B pattern.

If those are wired correctly (and they aren't splitting off wire pairs for phone service) then you can either put RJ45 jacks on the wires or put in a networking rack with patch panel or keystone panel and keystones to hold everything together. Add a shelf to the rack to hold your router/modem.

u/babycrusher69 · 1 pointr/cableporn

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006MZN0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_Z9q8tb0HT8HVY
This is for 8u ones that I used on Amazon they have other ones too if u need a different size

u/mattsl · 1 pointr/networking

Maybe I misunderstood you, but it seemed to me you were talking about trying to plug the connectors that you installed on the end of your 500m 6 strand cable directly into the switch.

Whatever comes out of the ground into your building should never have to be touched again until your never going to use it again. (i.e. when the building is torn down or in 20 years when you run new cable)

You terminate everything, then run patch cables to the switches. At minimum, you need something like this in your rack:

https://www.amazon.com/Fiber-Patch-Panel-Multimode-loaded/dp/B001B1HOMY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466417939&sr=8-1&keywords=fiber+patch+panel

Really, this:

https://www.amazon.com/Lynn-Electronics-Rackmount-Enclosure-footprint/dp/B00IPOI2VC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1466418350&sr=8-2&keywords=fiber+panel

That cost is an afterthought with this scale of project.

Also, as everyone keeps saying, run more strands. 48 strand is only 33% more than 24 strand. You may not even be able to get 6 strand in the type you need.

u/controlledbyvoltage · 1 pointr/synthesizers

yah that’s a definite advantage to the rast. i use the Odyssey racks for doing that but they are like 4x the price of the rast rack. the build for the rast rack looks pretty straightforward maybe i could do it (not handy with wood)

these are really handy for strapping non-rack gear to:

InstallerParts 2U 19" 24 Port Blank Panel for Keystone Jack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008NXJI2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_TinFW8HTPAXJR

here’s the rack drawers i use, you can run cables out the back for permanent install:

NavePoint Server Cabinet Case 19" Rack Mount DJ Locking Lockable Deep Drawer with Key 2U https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009WS7TSW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_eyb4x2Ct3B1Bk

u/contrarian_barbarian · 1 pointr/homelab

I have an iStarUSA D-400-6-Blue with some drive bays, and then my "desktop" PC (my rack is next to my desk so my day to day computer is in the rack also) is in a iStarUSA D-400-L7. If I was creating a file server from scratch, I'd probably get a Norco 4020; however, the D-400-6 was my old "desktop" case, and when I switched to the D-400-L7 for a combination of the added cooling and having enough space that my extended length video cards weren't running into the drive bays, the D-400-6 replaced an old cheapo Dell server box as my main server.

I'm also a big fan of these universal rack rails. They don't slide or anything like that, but you can put absolutely anything on them. I'd still screw in the server's ears, but the rails make it a lot easier to lift it into place.

u/Zarro_Boogs · 1 pointr/homelab

Neat! I was looking at getting some of these to convert the cab to square holes. I can get some 2U brackets to fill out the other 6U if it's a problem.

u/denali42 · 1 pointr/homelab

8u Rack Rails. Other sizes are available too. For servers, I believe four post is required due to weight and support requirements.

u/Gamerfanatic · 1 pointr/homelab

Is it sitting on the bottom of the rack?

Or did you use something like this? https://www.amazon.com/NavePoint-Adjustable-Mount-Server-Shelves/dp/B0060RUVBA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522809791&sr=8-3&keywords=server+rails


This is what I thought would make it more than 4U (albeit slightly more than 4U (by fractions of an inch).

u/Mikro_Tech · 1 pointr/homelab

Sounds exciting! I have mine in a basement with good air and a well regulated temp, but spaces like that get dusty.

I would make sure to fit the air intakes of everything you put up there though with a cut up furnace filter. It will catch a lot of debris from being vaccumed up.

from my rack, I made it out of wood that i treated and stained with rack rails like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Reliable-Hardware-Company-RH-4-SRR-Space/dp/B00JQYUIJ4/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1523396184&sr=1-3&keywords=rack+rails

That way to expand, i just had to rebuild it (which was made of wood and screws.

u/williamj2543 · 1 pointr/homelab

What about this? It says it suports up to 100 pounds each which is more than enough

https://www.amazon.ca/AC-Infinity-Cantilever-Universal-Heavy-Duty/dp/B01C9L3K18/ref=pd_sim_267_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=05M32TV9VHAJA3FB2BBQ

The room is in a closed crawlspace and no pets or anything will be in there. Also, we don't plan to add more RAM or make any changes in the future so being able to slide it in and out is not a problem.

Those storage arrays look cool but we really only need 4 slots of the r710 plus 4 other slots.

The company doesn't make rails, so would that shelf cantilever thing work too?


u/guiltykeyboard · 1 pointr/homelab

NavePoint Cantilever Server Shelf Vented Shelves Rack Mount 19" 1U Black 10" (250mm) deep https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008LUW49G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nXb9BbQ2ZKE7R

I used this one for my modem and small stuff. It’s less expensive and has edges that are rolled up to keep stuff on the shelf. I don’t have any of the larger shelves because all of the big stuff is rail mounted. But the modem is on a small shelf. There are a bunch of different sizes.

One thing to keep in mind when looking at stuff is the specs online for how deep things are does not include the amount of depth that cables like the power cable adds to the back.

Also, if you have dell sliding rails, consider the cable management arm. It’s really nice to have to keep cables organized and keep them from ripping out of the back when you slide the server out.

It has sideways cuts in the bottom for airflow. I used Velcro cable ties to keep stuff in place. I attached multiple cable ties together and down through the shelf holes.

VELCRO Brand ONE WRAP Thin Ties | Strong & Reusable | Perfect for Fastening Wires & Organizing Cords | Black, 8 x 1/2-Inch | 100 Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nYb9Bb1E6D6EM

u/Longshot726 · 1 pointr/homelab

Rails to fit Rosewill's cases are pretty much all a minimum of 22". Your only real option for "rails" is to put in static shelves such as this one:

https://www.amazon.com/NavePoint-Adjustable-Mount-Server-Shelves/dp/B0060RUVBA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539551858&sr=8-3&keywords=server+rails

u/Cephia · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

You would have to add a shelf or two separately. The shelves or rackmount equipment screw to little square nuts that pop into the square holes in the rack. They include only enough for half of the rack, unfortunately, but rack nuts are easy to find and buy.

That monoprice one above might be easier to use in that aspect, no rack nuts needed.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007OGTGS/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3TU1MTJJ0M7GZ&colid=3SKLSX7B2QEZB a shelf

u/Pirate2012 · 1 pointr/homelab

Dell Tower Server, T620 [ 100 lbs ] that I wish to mount inside a 4post, square hole server rack.

Will these work ?

https://www.amazon.com/NavePoint-Mount-4-Post-Shelf-Depth/dp/B00XXDHPEU/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1537471248&sr=8-13&keywords=2u+adjustable+shelf

as they can extend to cover the 30" depth of the Dell T620 or is something heavier duty required

u/candre23 · 1 pointr/DataHoarder

Ideally, you get rails specifically for your server. You attach the rails to the rack (front and back), and then slide the server onto the rails. However, generic shelf rails like this are generally cheaper if your server didn't come with the fancy rails.

And no, that last rack you linked is not going to support an actual server. That is only for shallow/lightweight devices like simple switches, patch panels, and some smaller appliances.

u/traal · 1 pointr/synology
u/iamwhoiamtoday · 1 pointr/homelab

A 1U shelf should do the trick. There should be able room for a cable modem + ER-X SFP on the below shelf. (Fits my USG / EdgeRouter Lite without a problem)

https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-Cantilever-Universal-Heavy-Duty/dp/B01C9KYUG8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482159222&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=1u+shelf&psc=1
Note: If you're looking for an awesome faceplate, I've only seen 'em for the EdgeRouter Lite, not the ER-X SFP :(
Could always take a 1U Blank and a dremel? >_>

u/zyck_titan · 1 pointr/DataHoarder

option 1: Build your own, you can use wood and add these or something like them to get the mounting holes. this will let you build exactly to the size that you need, and can be done for pretty cheap .

option 2: Startech 25U 4 post rack with wheels

u/303onrepeat · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

$450? You can get a 20u rack with out doors for $125. With doors for $300. NavePoint 18U Deluxe IT Wallmount Cabinet Enclosure 19-Inch Server Network Rack With Locking Glass Door 24-Inches Deep Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P4SVZ4S/

u/Net_Monk · 1 pointr/networking

I once had 2 two-post racks, installed roughly back to back to make a single 4 post rack. I used generic adjustable rails kind of like these with some 1/2" plywood cut to size to fit to do the very thing you are discussing. Actually, depending on the server dimensions, and if you are willing to put them on their side, you may not need the plywood.

u/zezgamer · 1 pointr/PFSENSE

An external logging server will happen a little down the road but not initially. Out of curiosity, did you try a rack shelf like this one?

u/electroncarl123 · 1 pointr/homelab

Let me follow that up with my own question - my unit didn't come with rack mount hardware, just the ears. I'm pretty new to rackmounting stuff, but I'm assuming a 75lb unit shouldn't be mounted by just its front ears to a 4 post rack?

I'm considering buying a 4 post rack shelf to put it on, thoughts?

u/greatwhitegibby · 1 pointr/buildapc

Not sure about the rack ears thing. I had to buy a universal rail system for mine.

This is the case, and it comes in several configurations to fit your needs. I chose the one with 15 bays because I will be building out a new gaming rig in a new rackmount case and using this build as my plex server within the next 6 months.

This is the rail system. It doesn't slide out, but it gets the job done for my needs. THere are other systems out there, and if memory servers, you CAN put a dell sliding rail system on this case with minor modifications.

Edit: I did replace the front 3 stock fans on that case with the orange fans in the pics.

u/terretta · 1 pointr/homelab

Use Navepoint. Triplite is crazy expensive.

Navepoint 18U Deluxe IT Wallmount Cabinet Enclosure 19-Inch Server Network Rack With Locking Glass Door 24-Inches Deep Black

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P4SVZ4S/

Strong enough to hold your Cyberpower.

u/VMFSX · 1 pointr/battlestations

I used these - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0060RUVBA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As for games right now I'm playing through Black Flag again on the new monitor. Haven't had a ton of time to really get into anything else just yet.

u/diabloman8890 · 1 pointr/homelab

In case anyone finds this by Googling later, I experimented with two different generic rail kits, for science:

  • NavePoint 1U Rack Mount 4-Post Shelf Rail Full Depth
    ** I tried these first, and they DO NOT fit a Lenovo SA120 in a standard 19" square-hole rack. The design of these rails means they stick inwards about 1/4 centimeter beyond flush with the rail, making it an extremely tight squeeze for larger hardware like a (2U) SA120. While that alone might still be usable in some racks, additionally the depth of these rails is adjusted with some screws that have heads that stick yet another few millimeters inside, making it impossible to seat the machine. It might be possible to make the squeeze if you have a round hole or threaded rack, but I wouldn't chance it.

  • CyberPower 4POSTRAIL 4-Post Universal Rack Mount Rail Kit
    ** These worked for me. They're a similar design to the NavePoint, but they leave a few precious extra millimeters between posts that made all the difference. It's still a tight squeeze, and I had to remove the SA120's rack ear protectors to make it fit (you can put them back on after), but it's in there good and securely, and flush with the rest of the equipment. Looks great.

    Thanks to /u/Mthrboard for pointing me in the right direction, and to /u/donnydavis for offering to sell me a genuine kit!
u/trs21219 · 1 pointr/homelab

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XXDHPEU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Been using this for the past few weeks for a Dell R715. Works great.

u/JohnCrichton · 1 pointr/hometheater

Congratulations, this is looking great! I love the Klipsch speakers but would echo the idea of having an AT screen.

Have you considered putting an AV rack in? If you're not above patching some drywall, I would put in a rack with your DVD player, receiver, a HTPC, and whatever else. This one has been good to me - it looks great, has a glass door, and plenty of room. Some RGB lighting running the length of the room or smart lights would be a nice touch as well.

u/black-buhr · 1 pointr/homelabsales

I have these.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JZCWX3Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Work fine with an r710 and r420s. I'm going to be selling my r710 so I won't need one. I'm near Newport Beach, HB, Orange County.

I can let two of them go. 30 bucks for both?

u/DeviceNotReady · 0 pointsr/techsupportgore

red box, you are so unmountable. Here have a shelf

u/thesugarat · -4 pointsr/homelab

I put my R710s at the bottom of the rack. One actually has the sliding rails though. The other just sits at the bottom. I do have several of these but I have no clue if they’d hold the weight...

NavePoint Adjustable Rack Mount Server Shelf Shelves Rail Rails 1U https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0060RUVBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lkQQBbQFCSFG1