Best refrigerator parts according to redditors

Ahh the infamous GE's water dispenser freezing issues caused by a choice of bad designs. Yes thousands others have gone through it. GE's solution for their f' ups? Well sell them a heating element (nothing but two wires and aluminium) for $35.

http://www.amazon.com/GE-WR49X10173-Dispenser-Heater-Refrigerator/dp/B004H3XWCO

LG Electronics MJX41178908 Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve

There should be a rule in this sub that requires OPs to search for the text that appears on the object before submitting.

I haven't tried any of the "fixes" I've found, but a quick Google search brings up a lot of resources.

I have no clue if any of these work.

But there's this: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-DA82-01415A-Assembly-Water-Leakage/dp/B010RHJ1ZA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=%22DA82-01415A%22&qid=1558875754&s=gateway&sr=8-3#customerReviews

And this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rwSSMF6Sj70

And this http://www.appliancerepairlesson.com/2013/12/13/samsung-refrigerator-leaking-into-crisper-drawer/

My GE fridge does this https://www.amazon.com/IceSurrender-Frozen-Water-Line-Tool/dp/B01DJFFT62 I bought this to unfreeze the line. Fill the syringe with warm water then shove the line up the water dispenser intill you hit the blockage then slowly press on the plunger to release the warm water. Keep pushing the line up as it thaws in till you can push through.

The systems we were installing on this project were all small, side discharge systems (18k btu). They look like mini-split condensers but they connect to a central system. They don't require a filter drier because they have one like this: https://www.amazon.com/Grams-Copper-Filter-Refrigeration-Welded/dp/B079T2NQ41 already factory installed. We've been installing them like this for years and never had any issues with humidity or unwanted contaminants.

The same one is on Amazon for $5.85 prime eligible.

I’d try replacing the starter relay and capacitor first. Regardless of it working, it’s a $12 part and worth keeping on hand for future fridges too.

https://www.amazon.com/Supco-RCO410-Start-Kit/dp/B008YDSH6E?crid=35KFDOZLD1YKV&keywords=refrigerator+starter+relay&qid=1537318052&sprefix=refrigerator+star&sr=8-3&ref=mp_s_a_1_3

A real helluva engineer wouldn't even ask that question. I'm disappointed, but willing to offer some guidance to get you back on track.

In all likelihood, the compressor is fine, and the problem is a failed starter relay. I was able to revive a "dead" freezer I got off CL by replacing the PTC Starter Relay, like this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WQFRT1A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

Probably the easiest thing to do is buy a Hard Start Kit like one of these - https://www.amazon.com/Supco-RCO410-Start-Kit/dp/B008YDSH6E/ref=pd_cp_60_1/142-1528411-3970020?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B008YDSH6E&pd_rd_r=9159887b-4c9d-4262-bc3d-29a057ef67c9&pd_rd_w=rgcC7&pd_rd_wg=9fJEC&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=M3750DQ3G24AXTZH74PH&psc=1&refRID=M3750DQ3G24AXTZH74PH or https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A8O0E5Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Figure out the right one for your freezer; that 1st link has a place to enter your model number. You can just install this and be done, or if that gets it running, you could pull this back out and then replace the failed part, knowing that you're on the right track.

If the freezer doesn't run with the hard start kit, then cut your losses and replace the freezer. Hey GT ain't much for a sports fan lately, but they at least turn out people qualified for appliance repair.

I have the same Danby kegergator. You'll want to put a 33k ohm resistor in parallel with the temp sensor if you want to get your beer colder. Also consider placing a fan inside the cabinet to circulate cold air up the tap tower.

Your starting relay will go out in a few years, order one of these before it happens : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N3WFW5K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you can I'd talk to local distributors to see what kind of delivery schedule you can expect. If you are unsure of the pull through you can always put slower movers or test new beers in a 1/6bbl at first and then up whatever moves fast enough into 1/2's. Also if you buy these you can save room in your walk in by double stacking kegs even while they're tapped.

https://www.amazon.com/Stack-Co-increasing-handles-restaurant/dp/B01MXOO6T0/ref=pd_aw_lpo_328_tr_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YNCSGXGAHMRW95ZJJY3P

You also need to be aware of the chlorine/chloramine in municipal water. Get a prefilter like this one for $9ish a piece.

Amazon. It was $19.99 USD before shipping when I bought it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L4I780W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482619003&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=Whirlpool+side+in+range+filler+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=21DIdoanhKL&ref=plSrch@

Try this. It doesn't mount to the range but this is what is meant to fill that gap on their more recent slide in ranges. Should work for what you are describing.

Specifically, this water inlet solenoid

https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Movable-Refrigerators-Universal-Portable/dp/B07Q49W8RH

Adjustable from 2.7 to 4.1 inches

not sure what you mean...where is it connected? maybe it's just 'on' until you turn the house water off.

or is it a saddle valve?

https://www.amazon.com/Raven-Piercing-Compression-Saddle-Pieces/dp/B07RDGHYYH/

You must work for Sears. Had a lady tell me that a sears tech told her the same thing.

Any ways he needs one of these https://www.amazon.com/GE-WR49X10173-Dispenser-Heater-Refrigerator/dp/B004H3XWCO

You’re welcome.

Edit: You’re

This thing and a cooler with an icepack.

I've been looking at this guy for a little while, egg holder every time I go camping I really, really, really want to make some damn eggs for breakfast.

All the bacon and eggs you have.

AmazonBasics Inline Water Filter

I found this model for $12 on Amazon thinking of just picking it up. Here a pic of the old element. I also found an element and thermostat kit for under $20 I might go that route and just replace them both. I'm sort of opposed to getting a multimeter on principle that I have a fairly good model back at my home in FL.

Old element- https://imgur.com/a/PZz5kut

New heater
https://www.amazon.com/WR51X10055-Defrost-Assembly-Refrigerators-PartsBroz/dp/B07MWPW6K2/ref=pd_aw_sbs_79_3/135-3786014-5752360?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07MWPW6K2&pd_rd_r=b2a570cf-7a80-11e9-b695-87acaaaa01ea&pd_rd_w=kDLnp&pd_rd_wg=24ekJ&pf_rd_p=aae79475-6dc9-4a12-80e8-27b63108fa72&pf_rd_r=Q04GJKDNPRDJMAD11Z9Y&psc=1&refRID=Q04GJKDNPRDJMAD11Z9Y#

This is the one for our fridge. It sticks right behind the pour spout, but you have to take the front panel that has the water/cubed/crushed selector off to get the wires crimped onto wires inside for power.

https://www.amazon.com/Ximoon-WR49X10173-Refrigerator-Dispenser-AP4318572/dp/B077Q8S2L7/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=Ximoon+WR49X10173&qid=1557470527&s=hi&sr=1-1-fkmrnull

Price has gone up a bit from when we bought it. You may be able to find something similar for whatever model fridge you have. Had to watch a youtube video to help with the details.

How effectively do solutions like this washing machine filter work?

https://smile.amazon.com/Filtrol-160-Replacement-Filter-Bag/dp/B0779FW925

https://www.wikihow.com/Test-a-Refrigerator-PTC-Relay

https://www.amazon.com/Podoy-RCO810-Refrigerator-Freezers-Replacement/dp/B0774CHMLG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1551037726&sr=8-4&keywords=compressor+starter

I've been through this already. It is better to purchase the shelves from a supplier off of Amazon or Ebay than it is to try to make something that neither fits nor lasts. Depending on your model, they start at about $8 each:

https://www.amazon.com/2187172-Whirlpool-Frigidaire-Refrigerator-PS328468/dp/B07V5QPRFL

I would call GE customer service and see if they have a recommendation. They might even send you a replacement filter.

Also, have you double checked the manual to see if there is a way to reset it or if it discusses this issue? If you didn't keep the original manual you can download one on GE's website.

I have a newer GE fridge (2 years old) mine does have a reset button for the water filter. At the same time I can't recall if the change filter light goes off automatically when changing the filter or not. But I do know that on mine the light is also a button and if you press it for 3 seconds the light turns off.

EDIT: If the light is bothering you before you get this resolved you can also put in the filter bypass that came in the fridge when you bought it - presuming you kept that part. If you don't have it you can buy a replacement bypass plug on Amazon.

Also, you can use the RFID chip from a bypass filter to hack your fridge in order to use the less expensive generic filters. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aEhzsNd2XBU

https://www.amazon.com/IceSurrender-Frozen-Water-Line-Tool/dp/B01DJFFT62

Pick up this kit, its important to get the EVAP cover off in one piece so you may want to let the unit completely defrost to remove it. Usually the ice is frozen to the styrofoam on the back of the EVAP cover.

Also once you remove the tar like substance near the defrost temp sensor, per the samsung bulletin the sensor should be on the left side of the copper tube its clipped onto, and the new longer probe that comes in the leakage kit you are supposed to cut the old one off the defrost element before putting the new one on.

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Assembly-Water-Leakage-DA82-01415A/dp/B010RHJ1ZA

I bought mine on Amazon. Make sure you get the correct model.

http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Backplate-Cooling-Case-100-BP-0972-B9/dp/B00OSAT62Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454224048&sr=8-1&keywords=evga+970+backplate

Got mine from Amazon for 20 bucks, with no issue. There in stock

Backplates apparently help cool the card but it's more of an aesthetic choice. You can purchase backplates for EVGA cards separately like I did.

http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Backplate-Cooling-Case-100-BP-0972-B9/dp/B00OSAT62Q/

Not sure on both points there is a us store http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Backplate-Cooling-Case-100-BP-0972-B9/dp/B00OSAT62Q not sure about shipping thow

thank you for the replies! when i looked at other photos (googled "compressor relay"), the relay is a "block" that directly plugs onto the 3 pins of the compressor. (https://picclick.com/Donper-S43BZ-SK30CZ-Replacement-Refrigeration-Compressor-R-134A-123815866065.html) Mine does not have it.

What is connected to the pins is the circular part (i think it is an overload protector) then, it connects to the black piece at the bottom of the photo which is the starter relay (part QP2-4R7).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N3WFW5K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

i think this is the part i need to replace?

Having the same dilemma here, might end up using something like this and caulking it with silicone. It's a gap filler for behind slide-in ranges, they're 30" wide already.

https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-W10113902A-Gap-Filler-Kit/dp/B00L4I780W

tldr Ultimately I never found the part anywhere and used a universal/non-oem part. If you have the same fridge, it should work for awhile. It's probably important to get the right horsepower.

Funny story, I looked everywhere online and never found the part for sale. I did find the universal part (linked above) that looked like it would work, but a lot of people said it would eventually burn out the compressor.
It didn't seem likely but I have more free time than money these days so I decided I would try a local appliance parts store. I brought the part to be replaced down to the store, and they could not determine the model from the part so they didn't know if they had it. I was pretty sure they didn't have it anyway, so I asked if I could buy the universal part (which they had, hanging next to the cash register). The lady whistled and said ohhh nooo, you can't use that, just come back or call back with the model #, when I asked how much it would probably be she said maybe 50-60 dollars. So I went back home, got the exact model number off a tag I finally found inside the fridge, and called her back, and she confirmed they didn't have it. They were selling the universal part for not much more than the price online, so I decided to save some of my food and go buy it there. When I got there was a different lady, but she did the same ohhhh noooo you can't use that. I gave her the model # and after she couldnt find the oem part, she sighed and said "Men." immediately did a 180 and rang up the universal part.

The installation was pretty simple, there's a diagram on the bag that shows you what to hook up and it includes the caps and stuff you need. I couldn't find a place to clip it so I just duct-taped it to the inside of the fridge. It's a little noisy when it kicks on but it works and saved me a few bucks.

Try one of these. It replaces the relay, capacitor and overload.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008YDSH6E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1