Best replacement under-sink water filters according to redditors

We found 156 Reddit comments discussing the best replacement under-sink water filters. We ranked the 88 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Replacement Under-Sink Water Filters:

u/ew73 · 21 pointsr/bestoflegaladvice

Almost all the "bad" tasting water is caused by extra metals or minerals, and almost always is harmless. Most of the time it's from water that is sourced from underground aquifers that tastes "bad". You're right: A brita (activated charcoal) can remove most of the nasty taste.

If you really, really want to make clean, use a reverse osmosis filtering system (that one seems a bit over-the-top).

RO filters are tl;dr'd as: Use a pump to force water through a series of filters / membranes and reject the stuff that doesn't make it through.

u/glitch1985 · 19 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Allow me to save you a bunch of money.


Buy two of THESE
and something like THIS and THIS
Along with $15 worth of fittings from home depot you'll have many years of spare filters. If you're interested I can go take a picture of my setup. I have these two filters before my water softener.

u/boyrahett · 10 pointsr/Plumbing

Looks like a Moen Positemp to me. Make sure you use genuine Moen parts, not knockoffs. Remove the cartridge, clean up the inside of the valve body, I use a fitting brush, flush the valve out into the tub, I just use the stop tube, apply silicone grease to the rubber seals and O rings on the outside of the cartridge, put it back together and test. If you're getting sand and grit in the valve try using a spindown filter on the water service / well tank line.

https://smile.amazon.com/iSpring-WSP-50-WSP-50-Reusable-Sediment-Filter-50/dp/B072YVNRZN/ref=sr_1_4?crid=14AMBB90O3BN4&keywords=spindown+filter&qid=1574252257&sprefix=spindown%2Caps%2C129&sr=8-4

u/aziraphale87 · 10 pointsr/NewOrleans

I installed a water filter in my kitchen and bathroom on the cold water. It definitely improves the taste and it's rated for lead (if there is any, my understanding is this is much more dependent on pipes on your property and any nearby road work than the citywide system).

The filters are $30-40 and last 3-6 months unless there's a boil water advisory (which is guaranteed to happen right after you change them).

u/TheNomadicHermit · 8 pointsr/Autoflowers

What do you want to know?

I will give you 3 pointers if you buy this particular unit, though. I only bought this because it's the cheapest 4 stage you can get, and I know I don't need all the bells and whistles (in-line TDS, etc -except one that I will mention in part 2 below) that come with the ones that cost way more.

  1. If you want to make serious quantities of water, and you don't have the patience of a saint, get THIS MEMBRANE and just keep the included 50gpd membrane as a spare. The dow filmtec membranes are the best you can get. They're the only ones that really produce anywhere close to their stated GPD rating. The 75GPD membrane is great too. Honestly it's just a more convenient, and longer lasting membrane either way. I've gone through a shitload of RO membranes. Whenever I need a replacement, the filmtec 75 is what I buy.

  2. If you're installing it on a bathroom sink that has easily accessible male threading (after you remove the aerator), then get one of THESE. It's much easier to just divert the faucet water to your 1/4" tubing than having to detach and reattach the included plastic faucet adapter every time you want to make water. If you want to cut the faucet out of the picture altogether (my preferred method) then install a SADDLE VALVE straight to your 1/2" copper pipe (cold water pipe ONLY - never connect an RO/DI to hot water) and a SHUTOFF VALVE in-line between the pipe and your RO/DI's supply port. That's what I did today. Tapped into the copper pipe behind my bathroom sink; drilled a hole in the wall just above the sink and ran the tubing into the bathroom; installed shutoff valve there; drilled holes in undersink cabinet to accommodate supply, waste, and clean tubes; mounted the filter unit inside the undersink cabinet. Now I have a convenient on/off switch just above my bathroom sink. The tubing for waste and clean are coiled up between the cabinet and my tub. When I want to make water I just snake the waste line down my bathtub drain, pop my water sprayer in the tub and fill her up. No worries of spills/overflow. No hassle of connecting/disconnecting plastic fittings that are prone to thread strip.

  3. Doesn't hurt to install a BACKFLUSH. This is the one 'bell and whistle' that I think is actually really useful. Especially if you have really hard water, It's good to flush heavy solids out of your membrane occasionally.
u/echo711 · 7 pointsr/pittsburgh

Run the water on cold for a minute before you use it for cooking or to fill up a brita(or any container so you're not waiting a minute for a glass). The lead gets into the water after it sits in your pipes. Overall water quality from the treatment plants is good otherwise.

If you get bad lead test results or are just worried, consider installing an undersink lead filter

u/Animum_Rege · 4 pointsr/veganfitness

If you're concerned about it, might as well test yourself. See this video: https://nutritionfacts.org/video/testing-your-diet-with-pee-purple-cabbage/

You could also use a cheap pH meter like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PU0W35K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2KV19AYUKS3X0

If you're worried about metabolic acidosis, just eat more vegetables: http://nutritionfacts.org/video/increasing-protein-intake-age-65/

If you want to take it a step further, you could install a RO water system, like this one with 6 stages. The 6th stage is an alkaline remineralization filter, and you could buy more of the alkaline filters and daisy chain them until you get to your desired alkaline pH level (using the aforementioned pH meter).

u/BloaterPaste · 3 pointsr/Homebrewing

Sounds like chlorophenols to me. Don't use a garden hose for the water. If you're using tap water, either run it through an active charcoal filter (like this one) or add a half a campden tablet to the water.

u/ST0NETEAR · 3 pointsr/The_Donald

There's a lot of things the LifeStraw won't catch (any dissolved chemicals, fluoride chloroform etc.), but it is a very good start.

Reverse osmosis is about as pure water as you can get without distilling. One of these under the kitchen sink would be great if you can swing it (water that you cook with is always overlooked):
https://www.amazon.com/Express-Water-RO5DX-Drinking-Reverse/dp/B00J2DGTD8

And get one of these for your shower:
https://www.amazon.com/Replaceable-Cartridge-Handheld-Removing-Chlorine/dp/B01M2C2MB6

u/yanman · 3 pointsr/Homebrewing

I use this 5 stage filter with my crappy tap water. Works great and is going on a year on its second set of filters without any sign of slowing down.

Whatever you do, I recommend getting a cheap chlorine test kit and TDS meter to spot check the performance of your filter over time.

u/Pink7172 · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

The filter for your shower probably isn't a softener. It's a carbon filter. If you want a point of use filter for your lav faucet this is good as you can turn off and not waste the filter when you don't need to or this for full time filtering. Would need 2 tho. One hot and one cold. Make sure the one for hot is rated for high temp. I think the best bet for your application is the first style.

u/NominalFlow · 3 pointsr/worldnews

You could probably add a Reverse Osmosis filter with a tank under your sink, with a Deionizing stage for even more pure water, and then add an alkalizing stage at the end of line for taste and minerals being put back in the water. Something like this https://smile.amazon.com/Express-Water-Reverse-Osmosis-Filtration/dp/B00J2DGTD8

As you can see, there are lots and lots of versions and sellers, and are basically all the same setups just with different cartridge combinations/costs, but they all take the same filter cartridges, so brand doesn't matter much in the end.

One disadvantage is that it sends 3 gallons of waste down the drain for every gallon of pure water you get, on average, but if your municipality doesn't suck that water isn't really "wasted," but it can get expensive if you pay a lot for water. Can't beat RODI water for purity, though

u/TellEmHawk · 2 pointsr/Autoflowers

I bought this about 4 months ago. I am very pleased.
5 Stage Home Drinking Reverse Osmosis System PLUS Extra Full Set- 4 Water Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J2DGTD8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_cJ6KxbH6GT8E7

u/Renigami · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

My method?

I spray with a normal pressure garden hose and nozzle at a narrow setting and spraying from a top to downward direction - coupled with an RV canister graphite filter, one you can recharge the filter material inside.

Then I sponge bucket soap her down and give a spray again. Use a cordless leaf blower to blow most of the water off before wiping up with a soft cloth the rest of the spots.

I don't use abrasive chrome polish - which may take off material instead. Since I have my cast wheels chromed, this wash method makes the wheels much more easier to clean.

After, I apply S-100 corrosion protectant to some of the engine nooks and fork crannnies, as well as the forward foot control nooks.

Quick, easy, and gets off most if not almost all debris without more scratching. And in a more effortless manner for spotless washing. And motorcycles aren't immediately or even sometime a bit after harmed by a drenching - evident with some of my wet rainy rides.

Edit: I also sponge soap her down starting from the top of the bike to the bottom of the bike, just as I would an automobile. The reason being so that I do not accumulate more debris to add to the soap down sponging as I wash the bike as I go.

u/tornadoRadar · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

https://www.amazon.com/iSpring-WGB22B-2-Stage-Filtration-Sediment/dp/B00LBHIW8S/

should do the trick for you. you'll want a bypass line and isolation valves so you can maintain pressure while changing over filters and not make a mess.

u/Liber_Vive · 2 pointsr/Connecticut

It's just $200 bucks for a reverse osmosis filter.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/ISPRING-6-Stage-Under-Sink-Reverse-Osmosis-Water-Filter-with-Alkaline-Remineralization-RCC7AK/206467327

If you want a UV light filter for viruses it's like another $100 (7 stage instead of 6 stage)

Replacement filters: https://www.amazon.com/iSpring-F9K-Replacement-6-Stage-Filtration/dp/B00BOASJ1M

u/sniffing_accountant · 2 pointsr/sanantonio

We had one installed at our house. Don’t have a water softener but we installed a 3M thing that that treats the water before it gets to your water heater.

Aqua-Pure AP430SS Hot Water System Protector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NKETXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6lgwCbQVCQFM2

u/keekah · 2 pointsr/functionalprint

This is the one I purchased a few years ago. Very simple to install. Swapping filters is super simple as well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DVW0PI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-G49AbDFJM30Q

u/ImLivingAmongYou · 2 pointsr/preppers

Even more confusing is that you can also get competitive knockoffs for both the tank and for the filters.

u/teskham · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

We use this but tbh we are making assumptions that it'll be adequate for a reef environment based on how well it is working for our freshwater environments.

u/GODZiGGA · 2 pointsr/HydroHomies

There is nothing proprietary about the filters and they are self-contained in their own disposable housing so there so assuming your system is using the standard 1/4" outside diameter water line tubing, you could easily add it to your system without needing to replace the entire thing.

All you would need is to get two sets (4 total fittings) 1/4" quick connect water filter fittings (which you reuse every time you change the filter) and the filters; pH filter post carbon filter (doesn't have to be these brands, any similar filter will do the trick if it is good quality). For install:

  1. Screw the quick connect adapters onto the filters.

  2. Shut off the water valve heading into the filters as well as the valve at the tank (same process as when you change the filters).

  3. Open the faucet to depressurize the system and get as much of the water out of the line as possible.

  4. Cut the line between the tank and the faucet.

  5. Connect the now split water line onto the quick connect adapters for the post carbon filter.

  6. Cut the line again between the faucet and post carbon filter.

  7. Connect the now split water line onto the quick connect adapters for the pH filter.

  8. Open up the water valves at the tank and heading into the system.

  9. Shut off the faucet when water starts coming out again.

    Worst case scenario is you might need additional 1/4" tubing if you don't currently have enough excess line to route the line to a place you can support the additional filters so the water line isn't supporting their weight and they aren't put in a position where the tubing can kink. They make filter clips so you can mount them on top of the RO filter and even each other if you are trying to figure out where to put them. The only reason I could see as to why you may need to replace the entire system is if you wanted to add an additional stage pre-RO filter as those housings are different so you can't just add an additional filter without swapping a 2-filter housing for a 3-filter housing and at that point it may be more economical to swap out the entire system.
u/FlyingSteel · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

You could do it for much cheaper with something like this http://amzn.com/B00BA9DE94, which has a 1500 gallon lifespan. You need to T-off from your existing plumbing and add a spigot/valve to dispense the water.

u/trshtehdsh · 1 pointr/funny

Get a filter. This one is $40 and works really well. Save some cash, better for the planet, yada yada bottled water is a scam.

u/itsrattlesnake · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

My wife and I lived in Shreveport (aka, the Big Sleazy) for a while and we had some foul tasting tap water up there. Ultimately, we got under sink water filters made by 3M. It was easy to install and the filter lasted for about 6 months at a time. It worked well enough that we bought a second one for the ice maker.

Of course, you can always go hardcore and get reverse osmosis.

u/3wolftshirtguy · 1 pointr/milwaukee

A permanent faucet filter such as: (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J2DGTD8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) is overkill but was surprisingly easy to install and you can't put a price on piece of mind.

u/iconoclasterbate · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I'd start here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L0ADH3K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Easy set up and while not whole house, it can get your drinking water sorted. $40, Cheap enough to put in two. Runs to a water spout on my sink and to my fridge with good flow rate. Lasts 6 months, Maximum type handles lead.

A reverse osmosis system will start you at $200 minimum, costs more with filters, but will definitely do a better job

Next...Replace that lead line. Its toxic, and not just to you and your family. Lead from that pipe is in the communal water supply and your family will be exposed everywhere else. Long run this is far cheaper than the annual cost of filters or healthcare.

Bite the bullet (pun intended) and just do it.

u/mywhiskeystache · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I just had a new system installed a week ago. Had really bad chlorine smell. Instantly was gone after these were installed!

iSpring WGB22B 2-Stage 20-Inch Big Blue Whole House Water Filter 1-Inch NPT Carbon


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LBHIW8S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

iSpring WSP-50 WSP-50-Reusable Spin Down Sediment Water Filter-50 Micron, 20 GPM, 1" MNPT + 3/4" FNPT, Brass


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072YVNRZN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


along with 2 pressure gauges


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087UCJ6I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/a_virginian · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

I heard about not using regular garden hoses for filling kettles. So, I went ahead and bought an inline water filter and the white Camco drinking water hoses, which come in 25' and 4' lengths. This setup is actually for an RV. One 5 micron filter does 250 gallons.

The whole setup (with Amazon Prime) was just under $50. They also have a ground spike/filter stand for the main unit to keep it upright if you so desire. I just sit it in a bucket.

So far, I have not noticed any off flavors or odors. The system seems promising. Also, you can get better filtration systems, but I chose this one because it connects directly to the hose spigot without need of an adapter.

One other thing I should mention is that I use well water which was the initial reason to filter my brew water. This system makes it faster and easier so far.

u/D1g1talS0ul · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

The filter I used was a .1 micron filter link

Good to hear, that it'll clear up a more in time. Next beer, I plan to use gelatin because I've see good results. I had the sparkolloid sitting around because I did a wine this summer.

u/TheLiqourCaptain · 1 pointr/ReefTank

I did, but be warned it takes me 15 minutes a gallon for RODI. RO (waste water from your RODI fills up much quicker. I use it when I need to rinse buckets and whatnot. My RODI was $125, coral12G did a video on it (YouTube) FYI they measure these things in gallons per day.

Aquatic Life Twist-in 100 GPD 4-Stage Ro Unit (Sediment, Carbon Block, Membrane, Deionization) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HRDE170/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_C8Q676QhD8k1o

u/sms_sas · 1 pointr/Paleo

Filtrete Maximum Under Sink Water Filtration System

$45 for 6 month use, even filters out pharmaceuticals. Replacement filters twist on no tools. Filter replacements are around $30. This is such a cheap option you could install them in the bathroom as well.

EDIT: This is a city water only option. If you're on well, go with a full reverse osmosis system, not if's and's or but's. Its the only way to ensure that you avoid the nasty shit like cryptosporidium or whatever else could be down there.

u/cryospam · 1 pointr/mead

OK, so yes I do filter. I am determined that brewing will be fun and easy so for filtration, I have settled on a vacuum pump setup with mostly inexpensive filters from Amazon (one of them isn't available on Amazon for reasonable money so I get it elsewhere).

Also, don't use a normal pump, they're a pain in the ASS to deal with. Get a vacuum pump, the All In One Wine Pump is by far the best for the money. The Enolmatic is MUCH more expensive and no better, it does offer a re-useable filter cartridge for an additional 300...but at the cost of disposable filters and setup, you're talking like 1000 gallons of mead for a ROI on that investment...plus you need to clean it and soak it in PBW after each use...for me, I just use the disposables and toss them in the garbage.

For a filter, I use 2 10" water filter housings and brass tubing and brass nipples connected to the tubing I bought with the All In One, I have 2 in line water filters, the first gets a 5 micron, and the second gets a 1 micron filter.

When I rack from primary to secondary I use these for filtration, I also use both 1 and 5 micron filtration when i go from secondary to bulk aging.

When I go from bulk aging to my bottling bucket (I don't like bottling with a vacuum system, it's way more of a pain in the ass than a bottling bucket) I first pull the mead through a 0.5 micron filter and then use a normal racking cane and tube to siphon it into a bottling bucket.

I do NOT use plate filters, they clog and are a pain in the ass. I bought a Buon Vino wine filter, and I NEVER got more than 4 gallons through it before it was so clogged it began to spray all over the counter. I had to disassemble the pump more than once because it was totally clogged up, even after running gallons of hot water through it. Super pain in the ass...don't go that route. Cartridge filters are actually less money and SOOOO much less of a pain in the ass. You will NEVER regret going a vacuum pump, although it means you need to use glass carboys. You just get a long tube, and don't even move the damn things full any more. I just suck it from one to another to move my mead (I have a 15 foot hose on my suction pump.)


The total cost for each batch filtration is $9.25. It's 1.50 each for the 2 5 micron and 2 1 micron (primary and secondary) filters and like 3.25 for the 0.5 micron filter. You can't get a better price ANYWHERE (or if you can let me know)

As far as the difference for the 0.01 micron cartridge filters and something a bit bigger...you CANNOT use active carbon filters or you will KILL your brew, and a 0.5 micron filter will sweep out the last of the yeast and cloudiness after aging. Carbon filters will steal all your flavoring, and they can actually spit out some black carbon crap for the first few minutes, so you've got to fully flush them first...regardless...they're no good for brewing.

u/DevIceMan · 1 pointr/hydro

^ Basically this.

I bought this Reverse Osmosis system:

http://www.amazon.com/Drinking-Reverse-Osmosis-System-Water/dp/B00J2DGTD8

While it may seem expensive, prices have dropped about in half in the last 5 years. It's also great for drinking-water, cooking, coffee, tea, aroma-vaporizers, water tooth-flossers, and more.

If you do purify water, beware that many nutrient formulas are designed for tap-water, which contains calcium and magnesium. So you'll probably want to either get nutrients designed for R.O. or supplement the Ca/Mg. Tap water also contains chlorine, and chloramine which is bad for the roots. Flouride is also not healthy. Or if your water-provider happens to fuck up (see: Michigan), you have an extra layer of safety.

My current hydro system is DWC, about 50 gallons capacity overall. I'd estimate I use about 16 gallons of water per week. The only down-side of my (current) R.O. system is that it fills at a rate of about 2-gallons per hour & the reservoir is 3.2 gallons. So my Saturday often has an timer every hour to refill another 2 gallons. Once I move, I intend to get more storage tanks, or possibly an additional RO system.

To make R.O. Systems more efficient and faster, you can attach a pump to the inlet side.

Anyway, highly recommend reverse-osmosis.

---

edit:

I also modified a water pitcher; which is about 2 gallons. (1) I drilled a hole in the handle to make filling easier, (2) cut off the front for pouring, (3) and another hole at the water-line because I've forgotten it several times and had water spill all over the floor.

http://i.imgur.com/G2qSew6.jpg

u/DaveInPhilly · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Thanks! It doesn't seem much easier to find 1 micron, though. Seem most of them are 5 micron.

Edit: found one half the price of the one I got at lowes to boot.

Thanks again.

u/revnode · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

The one I was able to find was kinda pricey, why not use something like this?

http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000NKETXQ/

http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00115USHS/

u/LiraNuna · 1 pointr/pics

Slap this baby on your water heater's cold water intake and replace the filter every 6 months and you'll never repeat those three words again.

u/IAMA_HOMO_AMA · 1 pointr/Aquariums

I would never trust tap water in a reef/SW setup. I currently don't have one because I'm out of work and also don't have an RO/DI unit at the moment, but I recently found this unit on Amazon. Pretty cheap and looks really easy to configure, and the brand has a good past.

If you keep the water currently in the setup (stored in like 5 gallon buckets or something for transfer) and only need water for top offs, you could temporarily use distilled water from a grocery store or buy the huge jugs for the RO machines they have there.

u/ThinkBEFOREUPost · 1 pointr/Nootropics

Use this filter: https://www.amazon.com/KX-MATRIKX-Pb1-Extruded-Cartridge/dp/B008A9P5DK with the cheapest (but well rated) 10 inch filter housing you can find. Your water will be significantly better than anything else for a lot cheaper!

u/app4that · 1 pointr/DIY

Note: I picked up a 50 pack of 5 micron water filters for a bit over a dollar each.

No problems with a whole house filter, and no pressure loss unless there was a major sediment deposit due to nearby construction which is your clue to pop in a new filter.

5 Micron Sediment Water Filter Cartridge for Reverse Osmosis 10" x 2.5", 50 PACK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TMIK5OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_j7X3xbBSR0V5B

u/chillin-and-grillin · 1 pointr/NewOrleans

I've now bought this Filtrete Ultimate cartridge filter & am planning to attach it between my water supply & my fridge. Most of the water we drink is from the fridge & we use lots of ice, so that's my first move. I'd love to get a more serious under sink filter system going but my granite countertop doesn't have a hole for the extra faucet & drilling into the granite sounds too scary for me.

u/DesolationRobot · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

And work back from there. Aerator, cartridge, supply lines. If it's just the one faucet, it's gotta be in there somewhere.

For OP's question: You can get pipe to pex fittings easily. A "sediment filter" like this is used on well systems. If you can find a cheap on, it might be worth future headache of unclogging fixtures after you've been working on the upstream pipes. But if not, I wouldn't stress it. After you do any pipe work, run the hot and cold in something that's less likely to clog--like the nearest tub.

u/humanasfck · 1 pointr/fasting

I have a feeling the water change is going to shift your experience with fasting significantly :)

>Do you enjoy using the Alkalized RO water? Does it last for a long period?

Yes, I really like this water, and the system is easy to install (if you have a bit of DIY knowledge, youtube is helpful as the included instructions are limited); I've done around a dozen of the installs for my own and friends/family's houses that I've clued into the benefits of healthy water.

The filters will last anywhere from 6 months to a couple years, depending on how good your tap water is to start with as well as how many people live with you and drink it. I can usually notice when the taste gets less appealing, and that is when I change them. The replacement filters are for sale on amazon too. Bear in mind to save a few bucks, you may only need the filter set for the 5-stage system; the 6th stage is the alkaline filter and if you do the math the is rated for 1500 gallons - this could last a while depending how much it is used.

u/dreiter · 1 pointr/Coffee

>We only put filtered water into the espresso machine

What kind of filtration are you using? The only way to remove 99-100% of hardness is distillation or RO, both of which have significant drawbacks. I have had luck with using the larger, single-stage filters like the Filtrete Maximum in reducing the PPM from ~80 to ~40 but I haven't tested it a high-PPM environment.

u/Peuned · 1 pointr/microgrowery

https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Sediment-Membrane-Deionization/dp/B01HRDE170/

is a good priced style system to get. you can't use your softened water as you know. if you had normal tap that might be an option, but with well you'd likely benefit from cheap clean water.

u/cfc1016 · 1 pointr/ReefTank

Even 1ppm TDS in your RODI water can contribute to dinoflagellate outbreak like that. THIS is the TDS meter I use, and have used for YEARS. It's simple to use. Doesn't require calibration. Batteries last for frikkin ever. Always test your RODI water.

Ever wonder why people who have bulkreefsupply RODI systems never complain about their water? The BRS units use DOW Filmtec membranes. It's the best RO membrane out there. Pair that up with a fresh change of resin in your DI chamber; backflush your system properlt; test your clean water to make sure it's at 0ppm TDS.

I would also strongly recommend only using food grade buckets for your clean water. This, or atleast another container that is thoroughly clean, and has never been used to hold anything BUT clean RODI water.

Cover all your bases on your water production, and I'll bet that after a water change or two, your dino outbreaks will fade.

u/anthologyincomplete · 1 pointr/DIY

I am trying to connect an RO type faucet like this
to a standard sink supply line. Id like to tee off of the sink supply line to provide the faucet with its own water supply (it will have an inline filter). I am not sure of the correct reducers to get for this. I ordered this
but the male end is just a touch too large. I am obviously not the most knowledgeable when it comes to plumbing sizes, but I would greatly appreciate any help!

u/Ctrap33 · 1 pointr/mead

I'm using one of these http://www.amazon.com/Purenex-1M-4PK-1-Micron-Sediment-Cartridge/dp/B000AOL0M8

I have the whole set-up, bump, filter, and container. It worked fine, but there is still noticeable amounts of dead yeast settlement

u/Trippsfunnyfoods · 1 pointr/CannabisExtracts

It sounds like you pretty much get how it works! Put your cold trap in between your filter set up and your pump and you’ll trap any vapors coming off of your solution before they end up in your pump. Not sure what your scale is like (sounds relatively small) but if you’re not doing this all day every day, a simple dry ice one like this should suffice

https://www.amazon.com/50MM-cold-trap-length-100mm/dp/B078HMHJVH/ref=asc_df_B078HMHJVH/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242031937199&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18333057085769178640&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030938&hvtargid=pla-603873816412&psc=1

Also, it sounds like your pump may be a little more power than you need for filtering alone. If you’re just using the pump for filtering and not purging, a small, cheap, pump with no oil should be just fine. This is the one I use for filtering through a Buchner into a 5L flask:

https://www.amazon.com/Filtr8-Lab-Filtration-Pump/dp/B074HQFBQY

I’ve never had a problem with this one failing even sans cold trap and even if it does, I’ll gladly pay the $40 to replace it and get another 2 years out of it. Keep in mind though, this will only work for a small filtration setup and won’t provide enough vacuum to purge.

u/harshhobgoblin · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I just finished installing a reverse osmosis last night and under sink canister filter last week (different houses) so this is timely, but I can tell you $5300 is crazy unless you have some serious water issues. Do you know what contaminants you are trying to filter? A water test will determine what type filteration you need. If you just want a britta-like filter for taste, you can install a canister like this for about $40. If you have other contaminants you can install a pretty stout reverse osmosis system for <$300. Again, it's going to depend on the water test.

As for sink, it's not difficult to drill a hole for a dedicated faucet. For granite you just need a specialized tile hole bit, for a steel sink you can pick up a hardened steel hole saw for about $10 and drill with a standard battery drill.