(Part 2) Best replacement under-sink water filters according to redditors

We have a house that has a 27 year old well. We had the same rotten smell. We installed a two stage filter (sediment and carbon) and it fixed our problem completely. We replace the carbon filter every 12 months for $99, and replace the sediment filter for $30 every 6 months.

It’s a kit on amazon sold by Home Master. I believe we paid about $300 for the filter kit. You can also get a 3 stage kit from them if you want that. After these filters we have a $500 Kenmore water softener and we have great water now.

Home Master Whole House Two Stage Water Filtration System with Multi Gradient Sediment and Catalytic Carbon, White, , https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N2941OW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bVuBDbAQ86ED6

You buy a kit

Not sure about Brita but PUR sells filters specifically to filter out lead.

Amazon

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-4-stage-ro-only-system-75gpd-2.html

This is RO only. For a fish tank; a person would use RODI (reverse osmosis deionizing). But DI is not needed or really wanted for drinking water and is really expensive to use as drinking water.

I normally run 1 sediment filter, 2 carbon blocks, and then I have to reverse osmosis membrane. Most "drinking water" built filters only have 3 filters - sediment, RO, carbon. But with the ones made for fish - you get an extra chamber so you can have more than one sediment filter if you have really cloudy water, or an extra carbon block.

Then. I have that going to a pressure tank. Which holds about 3 gallons of water. The RO can filter about 75 gallons ever 24 hours in best conditions. So the 3 gallon pressure tank allows me to have 3 gallons ready to drink with pressure. Otherwise it would come out of the filters as a trickle.

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-add-on-faucet-kit.html

Since my well pressure was not the best for the RO filter, I later added a booster pump.

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/1-4-aquatec-8800-booster-pump-kit.html

Replacement filters can be bought on Amazon of course. And in many cases if you already have a under sink filter, yours might take the same size that is used in the "fish filters".

Sediment filter and Carbon filters - what I have to replace the most - about every 4-6 months
https://www.amazon.com/Water-Filters-Depot-WFD-Replacement/dp/B078PW4CKM

Osmosis membrane - replaced about every 2 years but really depends on your usage. I replaced mine at 5 years which was overdue.
https://www.amazon.com/HiKiNS-Universal-Membrane-Drinking-Filtration/dp/B0795RJGZ3

Your cylindrical filter with a spout probably has charcoal in it. Depending on the level of contaminants in your water, it may not be enough to filter everything. I would suggest going one step further and buying a under sink reverse osmosis filter. It will clean your water through multiple filtration stages and finally get rid of all taste and odor issues.

Check this one out.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075R6D935/

We originally considered one of those water coolers, but we live in a really rural area so they don't deliver here. We recently were able to quit getting bottles altogether since I discovered these water filters. It's nice to finally be able to drink water right out of the tap or my fridge door!

A bit overkill but I flush the rads with a pond pump + filter using distilled water for 6 hours.

Links to the ones I used:

Cannisters:
https://www.amazon.com/Single-10-Inch-Canister-Housing-Tubing/dp/B074Q2F3MZ/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=aquatic+life+canister&qid=1558720321&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Cartridges: https://www.amazon.com/Membrane-Solutions-Polypropylene-Replacement-Cartridge/dp/B07QPM9HKZ/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=50+micron+water+filter+10+x+2.5&qid=1558720738&s=gateway&sr=8-6

There is nothing proprietary about the filters and they are self-contained in their own disposable housing so there so assuming your system is using the standard 1/4" outside diameter water line tubing, you could easily add it to your system without needing to replace the entire thing.

All you would need is to get two sets (4 total fittings) 1/4" quick connect water filter fittings (which you reuse every time you change the filter) and the filters; pH filter post carbon filter (doesn't have to be these brands, any similar filter will do the trick if it is good quality). For install:

1. Screw the quick connect adapters onto the filters.
   
   
2. Shut off the water valve heading into the filters as well as the valve at the tank (same process as when you change the filters).
   
   
3. Open the faucet to depressurize the system and get as much of the water out of the line as possible.
   
   
4. Cut the line between the tank and the faucet.
   
   
5. Connect the now split water line onto the quick connect adapters for the post carbon filter.
   
   
6. Cut the line again between the faucet and post carbon filter.
   
   
7. Connect the now split water line onto the quick connect adapters for the pH filter.
   
   
8. Open up the water valves at the tank and heading into the system.
   
   
9. Shut off the faucet when water starts coming out again.
   
   Worst case scenario is you might need additional 1/4" tubing if you don't currently have enough excess line to route the line to a place you can support the additional filters so the water line isn't supporting their weight and they aren't put in a position where the tubing can kink. They make filter clips so you can mount them on top of the RO filter and even each other if you are trying to figure out where to put them. The only reason I could see as to why you may need to replace the entire system is if you wanted to add an additional stage pre-RO filter as those housings are different so you can't just add an additional filter without swapping a 2-filter housing for a 3-filter housing and at that point it may be more economical to swap out the entire system.

Cool! Are you happy with the size? I remember reading that the biggest complaint was that they regretted not going bigger.

Were these the filters you got?

Do you use it for all your drinking water now?

I went with this...Countertop Drinking Water Filter - Alkaline (Green) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V2JMUJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TRC8BbCE7Z1WV

https://www.amazon.com/APEC-Water-Systems-ROES-PH75-Alkaline/dp/B00NWZ1RCK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473364047&sr=8-1&keywords=apec+6+stage is what I ended up getting -- 6 stage, includes remineralization, $229.

I was a bit off on the filters, so heres the links for that:

$55 replacement filters excluding RO They recommend you replace these every 6-12 months

$99 for the full set including RO this is recommended every 2-4 yrs.

Note that those times are recommended, you should get a water particlemeter (I don't remember which I got, but theres a ton of options under $20) so you can just double check your water on occasion. I also unfortunately forget the numbers, but I know I was disgusted when I checked our 5 gallon jugs-- re-using the pump thing we were without properly sterilizing adds up quicker than you want to think about.

Also the other reason I like the RO system I got is those filters are all standard sizes. So while I've just been buying their filters, you can shop around and maybe find cheaper alternatives somewhere else, you aren't locked into the brand.

I've used the $190 system linked below for ~3 years and have been very happy with it's water quality and minimal running cost. Filter cost is $30 a year when buying the $90 / 3 year kit linked below.

This unit is also an alkaline / mineralized system. Normal RO systems don't have this and ironically make the water so pure that it pulls the healthy minerals out of your body which are then peed out - which is bad. This linked system creates completely pure water then has an extra canister that adds back the healthy minerals to the water that your body needs.



https://www.amazon.com/Express-Water-Alkaline-Reverse-Filtration/dp/B00MU20LN2?ref_=ast_sto_dp.

https://www.amazon.com/Express-Water-Replacement-Membrane-Sediment/dp/B01LR8312W/ref=pd_aw_fbt_328_img_3/146-5640012-4590858?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01LR8312W&pd_rd_r=6ac6d1d5-cfa1-4112-8592-9ecc7f0cd754&pd_rd_w=2iB2w&pd_rd_wg=wHJdH&pf_rd_p=6e6afc8a-fbbd-4649-97cf-4e08f5113612&pf_rd_r=8HYG7C2F0SZ1R8BWAKWX&psc=1&refRID=8HYG7C2F0SZ1R8BWAKWX

Thank you so much for the detailed response. I truly appreciate it! This is the filter that I am currently using: https://smile.amazon.com/PUREPLUS-Activated-Replacement-Cartridge-Compatible/dp/B01N2H2OO6 - any chance bacteria could grow on it? I had a water test done by the builder and here are the results: https://imgur.com/a/4HdfZRR - According to that, there was no bacteria it seems. If the cause is sulfur, do you agree with the air sulfur filter recommendation?

There are RO systems you can mount up to your to your tap. Usually run $200-$400.

Example.

So it depends on what you already have. So you have a corney keg, and I'm guessing you have some pressurization stuff...so it wouldn't be prohibitively expensive for you.

You just need to force your stuff through a water filter. Unfortunately for you...the plastic cartridges don't like to be pressurized so you will have to use a housing like THIS made of stainless steel.

For filters, I bought 50 packs of both 5 micron and 1 micron as I filter between primary and secondary (this removes sediment but NOT all of the yeast so it doesn't stop fermentation) and I just buy these a few at a time for my polishing filtration. They aren't all that expensive and you only use them immediately prior to bottling.

The alternative is to use a vacuum pump (this is what I do because I don't have the corney kegs and co2 systems) but because you already have all that stuff...go with the push not pull route.

Nah, all of the pitchers are the same - they are just passing water over activated carbon, which bonds to organic chemicals like chlorine and nitrates. Calling it a "filter" is actually sort of misleading, because the water is not actually being forced through a filter substrate - it is just flowing passively over an organic sponge. These "filters" don't do anything to remove metals, bacteria or any other contaminates which are not readily absorbed by charcoal. For that, you need a sealed membrane, and enough pressure to force water across it.

Something like this paired with this will get you a decent level of protection against bacteria and chemicals for <$50. A step up from there would be a reverse-osmosis system for around $100-$150, which will give you legit protection against basically any non-radioactive contaminant.

Here, you're welcome:

http://www.amazon.com/Reverse-Osmosis-Undersink-Filter-Storage/dp/B000HBC53C

That's an very old unit. But change out the filters and RO membrane/housing and you will be in business

>Question: what is the horizontal canister? It looks sealed...

It's an sealed RO membrane.

Upgrade it to this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003LMFV7Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522198274&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dow+membrane&dpPl=1&dpID=31NU-Z%2BhHWL&ref=plSrch

And this housing

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Standard-RO-Filter-Housing-For-24-36-50-75-100-150GPD-Membrane-Element-Fitting/222675770869?hash=item33d8829df5:g:Qn0AAOSwt8JZ3t9U

Also jump onto BRS and buy the 4 stage filter kit. It will include a sediment and carbon filter and more DI

Either way.....that RO membrane needs replacing. I change mine every 2 years. And pick up a dual or triple in line TDS meter to monitor the RO membrane output and DI stage output.

Total cost will run ya $70. (Wich your still under total cost of a new unit)

Personally I would call BRS and get the RO unit from the 5 stage (without DI cartridge) and turn your spectrapure into a triple DI stage

https://imgur.com/gallery/MAIfA
Here's my setup. I'm on well water with TDS from 750 to 850 and ALOT of C02, so it's ALOT of stages

> I just changed it out because it was mostly tan and I packed it in tight

I assume you're referring to the color-changing DI resin?

Do you backflush your RO membrane? If you're having any issues with your membrane, replace it with a filmtec. They have the best rejection rate and [actual] gpd.

All that said, 1ppm could be chalked up to the margin of error of your meter. I wouldn't sweat it.

one could argue it puts less stress on kidneys needing to flush out impurities.

the softener would just help prolong the life of the filters by reducing the heavy 'crap' before it reaches to the system. its by no means a substitute.

you basically have distilled water on tap at 2 gallons per hour, with my setup.

im just a layman on the subject. but i can absoutly say a ro filters are worth it if you can afford it.

in gallons of water drunk, im easily ahead over 60 dollars in the couple monthes ive had mine installed. filters are paid off for.... still reads at 9 parts per million, by this fall ill be banking money.

not a bad rate of return, less than 6 months.


again, I highly recommend, this is the one i got
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003LMCBSS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

im not affiliated


*and that the person in original has a well. one can only assume the water is really hard, especially if has a brownish color, rust.

Slap this baby on your water heater's cold water intake and replace the filter every 6 months and you'll never repeat those three words again.

The one I was able to find was kinda pricey, why not use something like this?

http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000NKETXQ/

http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00115USHS/

An RO filter is a better choice than a brita. RO cost less to maintain vs having to forever buy filters for your brita. Don't get me wrong after so many gallons or years RO needs a new filter, but they are also more effective. RO can remove chlorine hard water is the most healthy kind but depends how hard. Need a PH meter to check it, or PH chemical test kit or strips they are cheap but the kind at fish stores tend to be lower range/quality.

Brita isn't bad but RO is better. I had one and we used the hell out of even beyond it's filters 18 month rating and still tasted way better than tap... WAY better.

something like this

http://www.amazon.com/Reverse-Osmosis-Undersink-Water-Storage/dp/B000HBC53C

can also hook it up to ice maker. Though if you rent it might be too much of a pain in the ass to install and uninstall when you move. If you have a home or plan to stay there a long time RO is the way to go.

On the other hand water with minerals in it may actually be healthier but not chlorine.

And obviously for portability use a stainless steel or safe plastic reusable container or like.. a cup.