(Part 2) Best replacement water filters according to redditors
We found 309 Reddit comments discussing the best replacement water filters. We ranked the 137 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
Allow me to save you a bunch of money.
Buy two of THESE
and something like THIS and THIS
Along with $15 worth of fittings from home depot you'll have many years of spare filters. If you're interested I can go take a picture of my setup. I have these two filters before my water softener.
What do you want to know?
I will give you 3 pointers if you buy this particular unit, though. I only bought this because it's the cheapest 4 stage you can get, and I know I don't need all the bells and whistles (in-line TDS, etc -except one that I will mention in part 2 below) that come with the ones that cost way more.
You buy a kit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011N1JOYM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
works great
i distill and then send it through a filter, best ever.
If you're concerned about it, might as well test yourself. See this video: https://nutritionfacts.org/video/testing-your-diet-with-pee-purple-cabbage/
You could also use a cheap pH meter like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PU0W35K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2KV19AYUKS3X0
If you're worried about metabolic acidosis, just eat more vegetables: http://nutritionfacts.org/video/increasing-protein-intake-age-65/
If you want to take it a step further, you could install a RO water system, like this one with 6 stages. The 6th stage is an alkaline remineralization filter, and you could buy more of the alkaline filters and daisy chain them until you get to your desired alkaline pH level (using the aforementioned pH meter).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006X7NKQU/
I didn't buy this one, but i know some ppl that have used it:
https://www.amazon.com/Filtr8-Lab-Filtration-Pump/dp/B074HQFBQY/ref=pd_rhf_dp_s_all_spx_wp_0_1/144-8039676-5423215?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B074HQFBQY&pd_rd_r=bdca3414-0033-40ce-972d-cf05f35970f2&pd_rd_w=rF410&pd_rd_wg=xoTQX&pf_rd_p=ffd394b3-6bb0-43ec-8bd8-b3dd44ab44d6&pf_rd_r=E2V05FWDCJ75B5KJC3E4&psc=1&refRID=E2V05FWDCJ75B5KJC3E4
You could do it for much cheaper with something like this http://amzn.com/B00BA9DE94, which has a 1500 gallon lifespan. You need to T-off from your existing plumbing and add a spigot/valve to dispense the water.
Even more confusing is that you can also get competitive knockoffs for both the tank and for the filters.
It's just $200 bucks for a reverse osmosis filter.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/ISPRING-6-Stage-Under-Sink-Reverse-Osmosis-Water-Filter-with-Alkaline-Remineralization-RCC7AK/206467327
If you want a UV light filter for viruses it's like another $100 (7 stage instead of 6 stage)
Replacement filters: https://www.amazon.com/iSpring-F9K-Replacement-6-Stage-Filtration/dp/B00BOASJ1M
There is nothing proprietary about the filters and they are self-contained in their own disposable housing so there so assuming your system is using the standard 1/4" outside diameter water line tubing, you could easily add it to your system without needing to replace the entire thing.
All you would need is to get two sets (4 total fittings) 1/4" quick connect water filter fittings (which you reuse every time you change the filter) and the filters; pH filter post carbon filter (doesn't have to be these brands, any similar filter will do the trick if it is good quality). For install:
Worst case scenario is you might need additional 1/4" tubing if you don't currently have enough excess line to route the line to a place you can support the additional filters so the water line isn't supporting their weight and they aren't put in a position where the tubing can kink. They make filter clips so you can mount them on top of the RO filter and even each other if you are trying to figure out where to put them. The only reason I could see as to why you may need to replace the entire system is if you wanted to add an additional stage pre-RO filter as those housings are different so you can't just add an additional filter without swapping a 2-filter housing for a 3-filter housing and at that point it may be more economical to swap out the entire system.
A bit overkill but I flush the rads with a pond pump + filter using distilled water for 6 hours.
I use the Filtrete under-sink filtration system. I just buy a $15.96 (Subscribe and Save + Amazon Mom) replacement filter every 6 months. I also have a smaller one that fits on my refrigerator line for the in-door water/ice dispenser. I love it.
https://www.amazon.com/iSpring-WGB22B-2-Stage-Filtration-Sediment/dp/B00LBHIW8S/
should do the trick for you. you'll want a bypass line and isolation valves so you can maintain pressure while changing over filters and not make a mess.
I just had a new system installed a week ago. Had really bad chlorine smell. Instantly was gone after these were installed!
iSpring WGB22B 2-Stage 20-Inch Big Blue Whole House Water Filter 1-Inch NPT Carbon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LBHIW8S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
iSpring WSP-50 WSP-50-Reusable Spin Down Sediment Water Filter-50 Micron, 20 GPM, 1" MNPT + 3/4" FNPT, Brass
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072YVNRZN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
along with 2 pressure gauges
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087UCJ6I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Note: I picked up a 50 pack of 5 micron water filters for a bit over a dollar each.
No problems with a whole house filter, and no pressure loss unless there was a major sediment deposit due to nearby construction which is your clue to pop in a new filter.
5 Micron Sediment Water Filter Cartridge for Reverse Osmosis 10" x 2.5", 50 PACK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TMIK5OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_j7X3xbBSR0V5B
So it depends on what you already have. So you have a corney keg, and I'm guessing you have some pressurization stuff...so it wouldn't be prohibitively expensive for you.
You just need to force your stuff through a water filter. Unfortunately for you...the plastic cartridges don't like to be pressurized so you will have to use a housing like THIS made of stainless steel.
For filters, I bought 50 packs of both 5 micron and 1 micron as I filter between primary and secondary (this removes sediment but NOT all of the yeast so it doesn't stop fermentation) and I just buy these a few at a time for my polishing filtration. They aren't all that expensive and you only use them immediately prior to bottling.
The alternative is to use a vacuum pump (this is what I do because I don't have the corney kegs and co2 systems) but because you already have all that stuff...go with the push not pull route.
You can't swing $60
$85 and you can Distill your own!
Even 1ppm TDS in your RODI water can contribute to dinoflagellate outbreak like that. THIS is the TDS meter I use, and have used for YEARS. It's simple to use. Doesn't require calibration. Batteries last for frikkin ever. Always test your RODI water.
Ever wonder why people who have bulkreefsupply RODI systems never complain about their water? The BRS units use DOW Filmtec membranes. It's the best RO membrane out there. Pair that up with a fresh change of resin in your DI chamber; backflush your system properlt; test your clean water to make sure it's at 0ppm TDS.
I would also strongly recommend only using food grade buckets for your clean water. This, or atleast another container that is thoroughly clean, and has never been used to hold anything BUT clean RODI water.
Cover all your bases on your water production, and I'll bet that after a water change or two, your dino outbreaks will fade.
And work back from there. Aerator, cartridge, supply lines. If it's just the one faucet, it's gotta be in there somewhere.
For OP's question: You can get pipe to pex fittings easily. A "sediment filter" like this is used on well systems. If you can find a cheap on, it might be worth future headache of unclogging fixtures after you've been working on the upstream pipes. But if not, I wouldn't stress it. After you do any pipe work, run the hot and cold in something that's less likely to clog--like the nearest tub.
There are several options to consider for water.
I personally have two setups that I think works for my family. As always, I try to get the most bang for my buck.
The first is using a simple ceramic filter, and then buying a couple of cheap buckets (with lids) from Lowes or Home Depot. You drill a hole in the bottom of one bucket, and a hole in the lid of the second bucket. You insert the filter in the hole. When you are ready to use it, you pour your water into the top bucket, and let it drain to the bottom bucket, ready to drink. You might also drill a second hole in the bottom bucket for a faucet. Start to finish, this system will cost you about $25-30, but is capable of filtering thousands of gallons of water.
A second option is a little simpler. Something like the HydroBlue is a little more expensive, but doesn't require any tool work.
Most water filters will get bacteria and parasites. Filters with carbon will also get heavy metals, though for really bad situations where I'm in strict survival mode, I'm not worried about trace amounts of lead that might be in the water, that will affect me only after a few years of consumption.
Most filters will NOT get viruses, but those that do are a LOT more expensive. I would still argue that viruses aren't nearly as much of a concern as bacteria and parasites, but if your still worried about viruses, a cheap way to deal with them is to use bleach or pool shock. (Bleach doesn't have a very long shelf life, but pool shock does.) You can also use a UV light to neutralize viruses, though this option is somewhat more expensive.
The gold standard for water filters would be a Berkey, though these are very pricey.
All in all, I'm condensing this to keep from overwhelming you. I've done lots of research on this, so if you have any more questions, I'd be happy to elaborate further on anything.
So, water is extremely heavy and hard to lift and load and because it's a solvent it isn't a great idea to store it in any container for a long period of time. Other people have mentioned this.
Honestly, for the budget you are talking about, I would look into a single water can you keep empty and look into going "modular" with a filtration setup and some food grade buckets. You can buy a dome filter off amazon that is silver impregnated for $11. You can easily pack one or two into the footprint of a bucket along with fittings, tubing, tools and other things that would be useful in other situations.
When things get bad, you stop and scoop some water to filter through your rig and keep trucking. You also have extra hose around in case you need to make repairs or have a makeshift tourniquet. Etc.
More useful water containers than that Jerry can are going to be personal nalgene or similar bottles for everyone with you (which are also good for keeping supplies dry) and possibly some of those new fangled stainless vacuum flasks if you want to try and backpacker cook in them (I have some of the ozark mountain ones and have been so busy with work I haven't had a chance to do oatmeal or red wheat in em yet).
It sounds like you pretty much get how it works! Put your cold trap in between your filter set up and your pump and you’ll trap any vapors coming off of your solution before they end up in your pump. Not sure what your scale is like (sounds relatively small) but if you’re not doing this all day every day, a simple dry ice one like this should suffice
https://www.amazon.com/50MM-cold-trap-length-100mm/dp/B078HMHJVH/ref=asc_df_B078HMHJVH/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242031937199&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18333057085769178640&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030938&hvtargid=pla-603873816412&psc=1
Also, it sounds like your pump may be a little more power than you need for filtering alone. If you’re just using the pump for filtering and not purging, a small, cheap, pump with no oil should be just fine. This is the one I use for filtering through a Buchner into a 5L flask:
https://www.amazon.com/Filtr8-Lab-Filtration-Pump/dp/B074HQFBQY
I’ve never had a problem with this one failing even sans cold trap and even if it does, I’ll gladly pay the $40 to replace it and get another 2 years out of it. Keep in mind though, this will only work for a small filtration setup and won’t provide enough vacuum to purge.
Here, you're welcome:
http://www.amazon.com/Reverse-Osmosis-Undersink-Filter-Storage/dp/B000HBC53C
I have a feeling the water change is going to shift your experience with fasting significantly :)
>Do you enjoy using the Alkalized RO water? Does it last for a long period?
Yes, I really like this water, and the system is easy to install (if you have a bit of DIY knowledge, youtube is helpful as the included instructions are limited); I've done around a dozen of the installs for my own and friends/family's houses that I've clued into the benefits of healthy water.
The filters will last anywhere from 6 months to a couple years, depending on how good your tap water is to start with as well as how many people live with you and drink it. I can usually notice when the taste gets less appealing, and that is when I change them. The replacement filters are for sale on amazon too. Bear in mind to save a few bucks, you may only need the filter set for the 5-stage system; the 6th stage is the alkaline filter and if you do the math the is rated for 1500 gallons - this could last a while depending how much it is used.
I am trying to connect an RO type faucet like this
to a standard sink supply line. Id like to tee off of the sink supply line to provide the faucet with its own water supply (it will have an inline filter). I am not sure of the correct reducers to get for this. I ordered this
but the male end is just a touch too large. I am obviously not the most knowledgeable when it comes to plumbing sizes, but I would greatly appreciate any help!
Use this filter: https://www.amazon.com/KX-MATRIKX-Pb1-Extruded-Cartridge/dp/B008A9P5DK with the cheapest (but well rated) 10 inch filter housing you can find. Your water will be significantly better than anything else for a lot cheaper!
Thanks! It doesn't seem much easier to find 1 micron, though. Seem most of them are 5 micron.
Edit: found one half the price of the one I got at lowes to boot.
Thanks again.
Actually, I just upgraded the BB back in January on my '84 PGN10. Used this BB from Velo, and got this BB socket to pull the BB. Also, you'll need a crank puller to take the cranks off.
So yeah, I didn't have any problems swapping the BB. But, I had a socket wrench that fit the BB Socket - you may not.
PROTIP: Don't buy the Peugeot if its Carbolite 103. Reynolds 501 or 531 save you a lot of weight due to superior materials.
Another guy recommended these. http://www.amazon.com/Orange-Grand-Cartridge-107mm-1-37x24/dp/B004JKIFQ8
These are the filters I buy:
https://www.amazon.com/iSpring-7PK-GAC-Replacement-5-Stage-Filtration/dp/B004HL32EE/ref=sxin_2_ac_m_rm?ac_md=1-1-aXNwcmluZyByZXBsYWNlbWVudCBmaWx0ZXJz-ac_d_rm&keywords=ispring+reverse+osmosis+water+filtration+system&pd_rd_i=B004HL32EE&pd_rd_r=d799e71d-945c-43c2-8760-8fe7c54539aa&pd_rd_w=eUm0K&pd_rd_wg=UuOPU&pf_rd_p=d1a6ea92-24ed-409e-8e33-97dc5a8de815&pf_rd_r=4HR5J71QQA11NS24YJR2&qid=1566570307&s=gateway&sprefix=ispring+r
That's an very old unit. But change out the filters and RO membrane/housing and you will be in business
>Question: what is the horizontal canister? It looks sealed...
It's an sealed RO membrane.
Upgrade it to this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003LMFV7Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522198274&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dow+membrane&dpPl=1&dpID=31NU-Z%2BhHWL&ref=plSrch
And this housing
https://m.ebay.com/itm/Standard-RO-Filter-Housing-For-24-36-50-75-100-150GPD-Membrane-Element-Fitting/222675770869?hash=item33d8829df5:g:Qn0AAOSwt8JZ3t9U
Also jump onto BRS and buy the 4 stage filter kit. It will include a sediment and carbon filter and more DI
Either way.....that RO membrane needs replacing. I change mine every 2 years. And pick up a dual or triple in line TDS meter to monitor the RO membrane output and DI stage output.
Total cost will run ya $70. (Wich your still under total cost of a new unit)
Personally I would call BRS and get the RO unit from the 5 stage (without DI cartridge) and turn your spectrapure into a triple DI stage
https://imgur.com/gallery/MAIfA
Here's my setup. I'm on well water with TDS from 750 to 850 and ALOT of C02, so it's ALOT of stages
one could argue it puts less stress on kidneys needing to flush out impurities.
the softener would just help prolong the life of the filters by reducing the heavy 'crap' before it reaches to the system. its by no means a substitute.
you basically have distilled water on tap at 2 gallons per hour, with my setup.
im just a layman on the subject. but i can absoutly say a ro filters are worth it if you can afford it.
in gallons of water drunk, im easily ahead over 60 dollars in the couple monthes ive had mine installed. filters are paid off for.... still reads at 9 parts per million, by this fall ill be banking money.
not a bad rate of return, less than 6 months.
again, I highly recommend, this is the one i got
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003LMCBSS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
im not affiliated
*and that the person in original has a well. one can only assume the water is really hard, especially if has a brownish color, rust.
Slap this baby on your water heater's cold water intake and replace the filter every 6 months and you'll never repeat those three words again.
The one I was able to find was kinda pricey, why not use something like this?
http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000NKETXQ/
http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00115USHS/