Best reptile & amphibian habitat hideouts according to redditors
We found 83 Reddit comments discussing the best reptile & amphibian habitat hideouts. We ranked the 28 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Enclosure
Glass tanks with screen lids are very bad for ball pythons, you would be looking at getting a tub set up (using a rubber maid/sterilite /iris tub & soldering or drilling holes into the sides - here is a good tutorial of setting that up ). Or you would be wanting to get a PVC enclosure. I have an Animal Plastics T8 for my ball python, it did take about five weeks for it to show up, though. So if you want to go this route, plan way ahead. The tub route is cheaper, but takes more DIY skills. The PVC cage route is more expensive, but very aesthetically pleasing. To make a glass tank work, I suggest covering three sides with foam board to help insulate, and covering most of the screen lid with saran wrap or foil to keep humidity in.
Humidity
A ball python needs at the minimum 60% humidity. This is incredibly difficult to achieve in a glass tank with a screen top. A tub or PVC enclosure makes this super easy. Humidity should be measured on the ground with a digital hygrometer. The stick on humidity gauges that pet stores hawk are often inaccurate and can cause serious injury or even death if they come unstuck from the wall and stick to your snake. I use this two in one hygrometer / thermometer.
Temperature
Ball pythons need a thermogradiant w one end at between 88F and 90F & a cool end of 78Fish - the ambient temperature should never be below 75F, & should be around high 70's. In a tub or a PVC enclosure, you will want an under tank heater - heat tap, heat mats, heat pads. I recommend the flexwatt that you can get with the Animal Plastics enclosure or the ultratherm from Reptile Basics. If you have trouble keeping the ambient up in the PVC enclosure, you may want to get a radiant heat panel, which installs to the ceiling of the enclosure. For a glass tank, you will probably need a ceramic heat emitter installed over the cage to keep ambient temperatures appropriate. CHE gives off no visible light. Red lights are often given out like candy at PetCo/Smart places as good ways to provide heat at night. They are not. Ball pythons can see red light, and it messes up their day/night cycle. I don't have recommendations for CHE because I don't use them.
Thermostats
Any & all heat sources you have for your BP need to be controlled by a thermostat. Failure to appropriately control your heat source can lead to it quickly becoming 120F & injuring your snake. I highly recommend Spyder Robotics Herpstats. You can get larger ones w more probes so that you can control all your heat sources w one unit. They have a ton of good safety features & a lot of people on this sub can answer any questions you have on them. The cheaper ones are around $100ish. If that is too much for you, there are a lot of people who use the Jumpstart thermostats, but they have less safety features & can wear out quickly. They also make a loud clicking sound periodically. I cannot stress this enough, this is not a place to cut corners. You need a thermostat.
Thermometers
I already linked to my recommended combo hygro/thermometer. This thermometer is great because it has a small probe to measure "outside" temperatures. I use this probe to measure the floor on my warm side (I hide it on the ground under the substrate so I know the absolute hottest place my BP can get to). I place the unit itself on the cool side, so I know all my temps & the humidity on one unit. You will also want an IR thermometer gun (there might be better recs than this one). This is good for spot checking temperatures without moving around probes & also checking the temps of the prey items.
Hides
You want at least two similar, enclosed hides. Half logs are NOT suitable, they are too open & they stress out the BP, as they can't watch both ends at once for a predator. Some of the best hides are these ones from Reptile Basics. They are enclosed on all sides with just a small entrance. They are dishwasher safe & also very cheap. You want them to be similar if not identical, so that the snake does not have to choose between feeling safe & thermoregulating. You will want one on each side of the temperature gradient. Feel free to add more that are different for diversity in the enclosure. I also have some fake vines/leaves in mine so that she feels more invisible. Go to a craft store or the fish supplies for these, the ones marketed for reptiles are way overpriced.
Water dish
You will want a water bowl that is large enough for the BP to soak in. This should be changed daily, as they like to poop & pee in their water. You'll want something sturdy as they like to tip them over. I got some crock dishes from Reptile Basics. You don't need any water treatment for the snakes water unless you treat water for yourself. If you tap is safe for human consumption, it's safe for your snake.
Feeding
BP's eat every 5 - 7 days as hatchlings and yearlings, as adults they can go longer. BP's are NOTORIOUSLY picky eaters. The ideal IMO for a BP is a proper sized rat fed either pre-killed or frozen/thawed. I feed frozen/thawed rats from Perfect Prey. Just a heads up - they ship with fiber glass insulation & dry ice. I try to open the packages outside so my cats don't get into it. They come in freezer bags and I just store them in my regular freezer. If even one thing is wrong in your husbandry, your BP will likely not eat.
How Much To Feed
The feeding amount depends on the weight of the BP. You will want a digital kitchen scale - you can get one cheaply at any box store. While under 750g, you want to feed about 10%-15% of their body weight about every 7 days. Once they are in their second year you want to feed 7%-10% of their body weight, after they are in their third year, you want to feed about 5% every 7 to 14 days. I document all feeding days and the weight of the prey in my google calender.
You should be weighing your snake at least once a month to track how much you should be feeding. You should not disturb or move or handle your snake for at least 48 hours after feeding.
Frozen / Thawed
I get the rat out the night before the day I want to feed. I put it in the fridge. About two hours before I feed, I get it out of the fridge and put it on the counter to get it to room temp. And then I soak it in a zip lock bag in warmish water (I use a temp gun to get water around 110F) for about 20 minutes, and use a temp gun to make sure the rat is around 100F, and then I run the head under running hot water until its 110F. The head of the prey should be warmer so the snake has a target. I then use tongs to move it around in the enclosure to mimic it being alive. She (usually) strikes pretty quickly. If she doesn't, I leave it in overnight, and throw it out in the morning if she doesn't eat it.
I prefer frozen thawed cause I can buy cheaply in bulk. It's also safer. As BP's get bigger, they require larger prey - and rats have sharp teeth and sharp claws and can seriously injure your snake.
Myths of Cage Aggression
You do not need a separate cage for feeding it. This is a myth. The best way to reduce stress at feeding time is to feed in their regular enclosure. This minimizes the risk of regurgitation.
Substrate
Stay away from aromatic woods - such as pine. A lot of people like to use coconut husk, unprinted newspaper, or paper towels. There are pros and cons to each. I like paper towels, they are cheap and easy to clean up messes with. I use PVC enclosure so I don't need a substrate that helps with humidity like coconut husk. This should be spot cleaned whenever a mess is made. Aspen chips can mold super easily so not really recommended. If you have a chip type substrate and are worry about ingestion of substrate while feeding, put a plate down before hand.
Shedding
Hatchlings shed more frequently, but you should expect regular shedding. Usually the most visible sign they are about to shed is them getting cloudy or "blue" eyes - just google image search for "ball python shed blue eyes". Once they "go into blue" you want to leave them alone as much as possible. Check in on them to refill their water & make sure their humidity is correct, but don't handle or disturb them while they are shedding. You will probably see them remove their skin about a week after they go blue. Right right before they shed, their eyes will clear up, but don't be fooled - if you haven't found their old skin they haven't shed yet. Once you have their old skin, you will want to remove it & inspect it. You might need to moisten it, but unroll it (there might be a poop in it) carefully & look for eye caps and make sure the whole skin is in one long piece. Then inspect the snake for any stuck shed. Don't pull off the stuck shed, but soak your BP in some warm water & it should come off mostly on its own. Stuck shed is usually a sign that humidity is off - so try to identify ways to increase humidity.
Yes, everything this person said! For hides, I like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UCDIBMY/ref=twister_B00UCDIB4C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
They're super cheap from Amazon and my snakes love them. Get two both sized so the snake will fit snugly inside without a lot of extra space.
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Your snake isn't eating because it is very, very stressed. Fix your issues with the enclosure and give it a solid week before you try feeding again.
I would take almost all of your rocks and sticks out of the enclosure and add another 7-8 inches of substrate. I personally don't add anything with sharp edges like rocks or rough decorations just to minimize risk. Just take it slow with her. They are simple creatures, and over time you will learn to understand their behaviors better. If you have just purchased her, she may be stressed, and that could be a reason she is on the wall in the first place instead of settling into a hide in the bottom. Speaking of hides, I can't tell if you have one from your photo. I would go buy one of these from a petstore that you can put in the cage with her after removing other unneeded additions. It will make a very simple hide that she can retreat to if she feels threatened.
Never had my corn do that yet in any of his hides.
I actually just had to get him bigger hides, and got him these: https://www.amazon.com/Reptile-Hide-Box-C--Medium/dp/B00UCDIBJ2
The medium is a little small for him, but the size below would've been definitely too small. He fills up the hide about 65-70%, and still has some growing to do before he's a full adult. (Another foot, or so).
The only thing he absolutely goes CRAZY for, is moss. If I give him a mossy container, he refuses to leave it. I have to open it up and dump him out before he'll leave it. For this reason, I only offer it to him around shedding time, as I don't want him to get scale rot or something.
Leos enjoy small spaces, but not TOO small. They are flexible but probably don’t want to cram themselves into something if they don’t have to. Every gecko is different tho.
If you want store bought hides my guys seem to particularly love the different sizes of Exo Terra Gecko Caves. For their warm hides I put them in without the bottoms and they seem to like resting their heads on the openings.
But in reality any space that is dark will work. They just want to feel secure.
They will lay outside their hides at times. I take it as a sign they are comfortable with their environment. One of mine particularly likes laying at the back of his tank under one of his plants.
Reptihabitat kit $154 and that's overpriced considering how much of the stuff in it you'll just throw away. You can get a 20 long and a folding screen top from Petsmart for about $50 and the 2 light dome for another $50.
https://www.petsolutions.com/C/Reptile-Habitats/I/Zoo-Med-ReptiHabitat-Bearded-Dragon-Kit.aspx?catargetid=520009670000580654&cadevice=c&gclid=CjwKCAjw2s_MBRA5EiwAmWIac2ZBedmIdyBdq_7s09x4txgNz-FvlD5uiNVmX3KfTKu4lo9XpjanfBoCGVUQAvD_BwE
14" t5 hood $38.80
https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptisun-T5-Ho-Terrarium/dp/B00M9ONY1W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502887235&sr=8-1&keywords=14%22+t5
Half log $8.60
https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Habba-Extra-Large/dp/B0010ONMV4/ref=sr_1_7?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1502887697&sr=1-7&keywords=reptile+hide
Hide XL $25.98
https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Reptile-Extra-Large/dp/B0002AR5BA/ref=sr_1_21?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1502887697&sr=1-21&keywords=reptile+hide
12" t5 10.0 Bulb $20.77
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N1DY82E/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp_2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3171424582&pd_rd_wg=9dlUL&pf_rd_r=5FMKXWA2ASD8TY18EGDD&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00N1DY82E&pd_rd_w=bTBUC&pf_rd_i=14%22+t5&pd_rd_r=GGP34DN67RR24AP1GD50&ie=UTF8&qid=1502887808&sr=2
Everything you see here can be had for $248.15 brand new. As soon as you walk out the door of the pet store, that stuff is worth less than half that. Also considering that this setup is not going to work for an adult and it becomes even less desirable. If I were looking to sell this setup I would sell on craigslist and consider myself extremely fortunate to get $100 for it all.
I just put on a new background for my tank, and I like how it turned out. As much as possible, I like to have an all-natural look for my tank. The PVC basking dock that I made is totally functional, but aesthetically not very pleasing. I'm really trying to come up with creative solutions to make it look better.
I would consider just buying one, but I haven't found any good ones online yet. I don't like the floating basking docks, and some of the other ones I was looking at look too small and/or flimsy.
So my three options are to create something from scratch, decorate my existing one to make it look better, or to buy one online. Any ideas?
Edit: Something like this would be cool, except that this one is WAY too tiny. Does anyone know if they make similar ones but larger? Preferably a good 12" tall.
Exo Terra Reptile Den, Medium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AR5BU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RLPBDb53G529P
I got mine off of Amazon here :)
Are you going to upgrade once she gets bigger? That size is a bit small for a full size adult. My adult male loves the next bigger size up of that one (He's over 120g and fits fine)!
I use this hide for all my geckos young and old. They really love it, even though it's snug for the adults.
And do you have a moist hide too?
Hi all,
So I did something not so smart and bought a gecko from petsmart. I had done research beforehand and while doing some research on supplies, ran across this guy (not named yet), and found him too cute to resist. This was about two weeks ago. I'm not sure how old he is, but he's about 4 inches long at the moment.
Before you comment on my hygrometer reading, the picture was taken right after I set up/misted the tank. It is currently and normally at ~40% humidity. I have a 10 gallon tank with warm, cool, and moist hides, and the surface temperature on the warm side is in the mid 90s.
Onto my actual concern: Should I be worried about indigestion? So I've been feeding him crickets, and he eats about 2-3 every night. I also leave a bowl of mealworms in the tank, which he's only touched twice when I came home later than his usual feeding time. However, I notice that he is pooping irregularly. He was pooping the first three days I got him, and now it's only every other day. I've also noticed that the poop seems drier than it was before, and possibly pieces of undigested cricket shells and some white stuff that might be extra calcium powder? I know geckos need belly heat to digest properly but this gecko really likes to climb things. If he is done eating or pooping, he immediately climbs up into his hide and doesn't come out. He also seemed pretty shy and I would have to leave the crickets, turn off the lights, and come back later to take out the extra. It's not too hot on the warm side, and he never uses his cool hide, so I guess he just likes to be in total darkness. But is this an issue that affects digestion? The only time I've seen him actually sit on the warm side after eating was the one time I caught him eating and snatched the tree away (terrible, I know).
I've removed the tree hide because I have a problem with him climbing up and never coming down, like this. It was a problem for me in terms of cleaning the terrarium, so I've recently replaced it with a rock hide so he has his total darkness but I can secretly peek too, and he loves it. But once again he's climbing up onto the upper shelf asap, and I haven't seen poop yet after two days. He came out of the rock just now (noon) and walked over to his usual pooping corner, looked around and opened his mouth a few times (didn't make sounds though), made some jerky movements with his head, then crawled back into his rock. I'm worried about possible constipation. It's probably not impaction since I've been using a carpet and not sand. How bad does this look? Should I wait it out or try to find a vet asap?
edit: holy crap that was long. Tl;Dr Gecko doesn't like to use heat pad for belly warmth and isn't pooping regularly. Should I be worried?
It looks perfectly safe, but I don't know if it would make a good hide... it seems a bit too open, so it'd be a neat decoration, but I wouldn't count on it making a good hide.
I have this one in my hatchling's tank. It serves much better as a hide (thought my snake much prefers his little coconut halves) and still looks really cool.
Here's some options for you, there's many more but these'll get you started:
Pangea Reptile Hide Box (A- Mini) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UCDIBMO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_X6DyDbNPMABB3
I found this on Amazon. But I agree with the other person who posted. Yogurt cups or other things not see thru will work. Clutter gives little ones places to hide and feel comfortable.
Snakes like to hide and explore. And snug spots they seem to love. It helps them feel secure .
The rat seems like the right size. Some things you could try.
Replace the heat lamp light bulb with a ceramic heat emitting bulb. Amazon has them. BP's like it dark.
Cover 3 sides of the tank with paper. It will make the snake feel more secure.
Try different hides similar to these.
Probably the most important. Feed at night in the dark. These snakes are nocturnal.
T Rex skull: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OQPYOJS/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_f8KLDbR8M2K5R
Dinosaur eggs: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KSKO508/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_C9KLDb89DAMVN
Cave:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1EOR0K/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_h-KLDbSSN9RG3
Platform: https://www.petsmart.com/reptile/habitats-and-decor/habitat-decor/all-living-things-slate-basking-platform-37985.html?cgid=500116
Cork hide: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVC8SC/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_acLLDb5GZK5B4
We have an under tank heater with thermostat on the way from amazon and this for moist hide will be on the left maybe might move stuff around a bit and want to get more of the brown for that desert look
Yeah I just ordered it I’m glad it’s this one she likes because it looks so cool especially when she sticks her head out Exo Terra Primate Skull Terrarium
I found the quote mentioned earlier just in case you wanted see if your Beardie meets any other Brumation criteria. Actually, my male BD stopped eating/was sluggish for about 5 days, but didn't actually go to sleep until I rearranged his tank and there was a cozy spot to pass out. They seem to prefer sleeping under some sort of cover like a Critter Cavern. Hope this helps :)
> Most Bearded Dragons will get a bit cranky just prior to going down for their long sleep, and many may not want you to handle them as you usually do. Most don’t get nasty about it, but they make it known that they really don’t want to be bothered, and would rather be left alone.
https://www.universalrocks.com/fish/backgrounds/ledge-style/24x12-ledge
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008YDHDD2/ref=twister_B00UKU5Z14?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.etsy.com/listing/484539657/corner-pet-hammock-brown-hues-with-hooks?ref=shop_home_active_16
These three are my favorite purchases. The hammock in particular because I couldn't find any other ones that were not green.
I believe it's this:
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0179QK0IY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1JH5JCQRJGIF4&coliid=I2UKF4PLX3OIQ2
The tree in the back on the right is this All Living Things bonsai tree. The cave on the left is this thing, pushed down into the substrate.
Exo Terra Primate Skull Terrarium D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0074AQVU2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_D-Ecvb123SXAD
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0074AQVU2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_D-Ecvb123SXAD
I got it at a reptile expo. You can find them online on amazon pretty cheap! https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Primate-Skull-Terrarium/dp/B0074AQVU2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525215887&sr=8-1&keywords=terrarium+skull
It's an Exo Terra medium gecko cave! She loves it. We use it as her warm hide because it holds heat really well, but it would hold humidity just as well. Here's the size we have for her.
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I'm in the UK so i couldnt say for sure but i am sure that this is is
https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Gecko-Reptiles-Medium/dp/B008YDHDD2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1523557527&sr=8-4&keywords=reptile+hide
I bought one of these and I put a damp paper towel on the inner roof it and eco earth (coco fiber) and sphagnum moss and mine love it
First of all... thats a cute little gecko. I hope you get many years of pleasure out of caring for it.
But lets get down to business.
Don't take this the wrong way, but I think you haven't learned some of the basics... and I'd really really hate for you to get into a situation where your gecko didn't get to live a long happy life. For example, this is Ranger. I rescued him from one of my students who didn't know how to care for him properly. When I got him, he was in a poor state.
I want to make sure that your little buddy doesn't end up that way.
So, try something a little more like this.
1) 10 gallon tank.
Your plastic critter carrier is okay while its a baby, but it's going to outgrow that thing in about a month. Seriously, these guys grow up fast! A 10 gallon tank is perfectly fine for an individual leopard gecko. However, I prefer a 20 gallon long tank if you have the space for it. I'm sure the geckos appreciate the extra space to stretch their legs too. Believe it or not, they are actually very active at night! Don't let their daytime sleeping fool you.
2) Get a safe substrate.
Those wood chips look nice, but they're probably kind of difficult to walk on and some of the smaller pieces could cause impaction if he eats them. For babies I recommend paper towels. They're easy to clean up, and there is ZERO risk of impaction. If the white looks too bad, try the brown paper towels instead. That's what I used for Ranger when I was nursing him back to health. Alternately, you can use slate tiles, which look great and the geckos seem to really like. Just remember: NEVER USE SAND. It will kill your gecko.
3) Notice that there are three hiding spots.
On the left is a moist hide. It's just a disposable food container with damp paper towels inside. This will help with shedding, but they often like to go in it when they aren't shedding, so make sure to moisten the towels every couple of days. It's ugly so I put a fake plant in front of it. If this is too ugly for you, I'd suggest getting an Exo Terra Gecko Cave... obviously it costs a bit more. Likewise, you can get creative. I built Ranger's moist hide myself.
In the middle is the cool hide. It's just a flat piece of cork bark. It's simple, it looks really good, and they love it! They just crawl under it and chill. Once again, you can spurge on something fancy, but you don't have to!
On the right is the warm hide. It's one of those log hides, so it gets good air flow. You don't want something that will build up too much heat. It's sitting on top of a pice of slate tile, which is over the UTH.
4) Speaking of a UTH...
You need one. Leopard geckos can't digest food if they can't get their belly warm. A heat lamp does very little to help this. However, make sure that the hot spot doesn't get too warm. I'd recommend a thermostat, but I've also done perfectly fine with a mechanical timer. Mine shuts of for 30 minutes every two hours and that seems to keep it between 88 and 92 degrees.
5) Vitamins.
He needs a multivitamin powder, or you need to be feeding him "gut loaded" prey. For my geckos I just place some of the vitamin powder in the mealworm bowl. I also keep pieces of sandstone in my cages, and I dust the stones with calcium powder. They lick it right off!
If you're keen on doing some work to save money and have some tools lying around, you could build your own enclosure for much cheaper than premade ones. There's plenty of tutorials and the materials (usually wood or acrylic) are fairly affordable. The long term costs of owning a snake are pretty negligible, it's the initial cost that's going to be pretty high.
Aside from the enclosure, you also need; a heat mat (ex), a thermostat (ex1 ex2), thermometer and hygrometer (ex), substrate (ex1 ex2), 2 hides (ex), water dish (ex), ceramic heat emitter (ex), cleaning supplies (ex), and a mist bottle (ex).
Those are all just examples and some of them might not work for you, but it should give you an idea of what to look for. Things that aren't "technically" a requirement but are highly recommended are plants/decor and a light (UVB if you want to spoil them) to provide a day/night cycle. If you're wanting a Ball Python, options are practically endless on MorphMarket. Just make sure you do your research on a breeder before buying.
My bad. Still wild that there are two ant lovers from Canada. Just kidding, I have no idea where you are from but figured since I'm assuming so much already. Also just in case anyone else wondered about that den with magnets that was in the video it is an Exo Terra product.
https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Reptile-Den-Large/dp/B0002AR5BU?th=1
Howa bout a hide like this? Do you know how big the habitat is?
I designed and got a custom fiberglass tank molded, designed with slopes and basking platforms, costs about 300+ usd? Can't remember. Lots of places does this.
But the slopes will be real slipper and I had to glue small rocks on them (aquarium safe silicon gel) for the RES to climb. Though they still prefer just struggle up from the sides.
It was big enough for me to throw 2 of something like this and let them use it to chill / assist them to climb up the platform.
That's awesome that you moved from sand, it can actually kill leos, particularly babies. The cricket stuff you're using sounds good too!
As for suggestions, definitely the UTH and thermostat combo I linked, since those are both decently priced. I've used these hides and have liked them, but you can definitely get away with just buying the Petsmart/Petco ones and it may be a little cheaper. Likewise, some people just cut opaque tupperware or use broken (but smooth-edged) pots and stuff as well. I even had a friend who made their hides out of legos.
Please Ignore Sassys facefull of food, strawberry still on lip look.
On her last hatch day we upgraded her from a 50 gallon terrarium to a 140 gallon terrarium. She also got to eat a bunch of goliath worms, and chowed down on Bok Choy.
Are you planning on getting a glass terrarium or using a tub? Personally, I purchased a gently used 20 gallon tank for my young ball python for like $25 off of facebook marketplace that came with a log hide and a few plants. Besides that, I have another hide that is just kind of a black box that I found on amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UCDIBJ2?tag=goherping-20) and that’s about it for his hides. If you use a glass terrarium, I recommend blacking out 3 of the sides to make him feel a lot safer and enclosed. I just got a few pieces of black paper from a craft store and taped them onto the sides. The main thing, especially for ball pythons, is to provide plenty of places for them to hide, on both the cool side and the warm side. Plants and wooden sticks are great for that as they can hide underneath them and also climb over them. I guess overall, make sure you have at least 2 hides, 1 on the cool side and 1 on the warm side, a water dish, some fake plants or other things to hide under, and substrate that can hold humidity well. I hope this helps!
I got it from a friend, but I found a link on Amazon!
https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Shale-Hide-Out-Medium-Aquarium/dp/B0018CJNEI/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr2_2?keywords=aquarium+tiered+rock+hide&qid=1565484895&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmr2
So getting started with a snake can be expensive but it doesn't have to break the bank. There are a number of ways that you can actually save money and still provide a more than adequate enclosure.
Let's assume you are getting a baby ball python.
Depending on morph the price ranges greatly. A normal will cost you around $40 from a reptile store or expo. Morphs can easily get in the hundreds. DO NOT buy from chain pet stores (i.e. Petsmart, Petco.) Their animals are often sick/unhealthy. Buy from a reputable breeder/reptile store.
When picking out a snake, look for signs of disease/injury/mites. Common things are Respiratory infections, mites, thermal burns, mouth rot and scale rot. Check the belly for discoloration/signs of injury. Check around the mouth for any bubbling and see if you can get the breeder/store worked to get it to open its mouth. A healthy mouth will be nice and pink. Check around the mouth/eyes and under the chin for mites. These will look like small black specs that are often lodged under/between scales.
Enclosure: Appropriate size to start out with would be a 20gal long. Brand new this can cost around $70 (price of All Living Things Reptile Terrarium) or more depending on brand. However, you can look on resale websites such as LetGo and buy one secondhand. If you don't mind not having a great view of your friend, you can also go with an appropriately sized storage bin. These will be cheaper than glass terrariums and can be just as good of a home if you properly outfit it. Will need to size up when your snake gets bigger.
You will need 2 hides. If you don't mind about asthetics, I suggest something like this https://www.amazon.com/Pangea-Reptile-Hide-Box-Medium/dp/B00UCDIBJ2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=reptile+hide&qid=1566576464&s=gateway&sr=8-4. Not very expensive, easy to clean. $10-15 each. These will need to be sized up as your snake grows. A proper hide should be enclosed on all but one side and be a snug fit for your snake.
Water bowl: I suggest a ceramic water bowl or similarly heavy/deep water bowl. You can get these on Amazon for ~$10. Will need to get bigger when your snake does.
Heat source: Either a Under Tank Heater or a Ceramic heat emitter are popular/good choices. Lamp+heat emitter around ~$20 but can be transferred to bigger cage when adult. UTH will be around $15 for first enclosure, will need a new one when you size up.
Thermostat: You need a thermostat that will plug into heat source to regulate temperatures. Most on Amazon are in the $15-20 range
Thermometer/Humidity gauge: Need to actively see temperature and humidity in enclosure. Amazon has decent ones that are not too expensive. Stay away from analog ones that stick to side of enclosure as these are inaccurate and the adhesive can get stuck on snake. Go with digital ones.
Digital temperature gun: Monitor spot temperatures. ~$15 or so depending on which you get.
Scale for weighing: while this is recommended it is not necessary. Price varies around $15-20
Bedding: Either cypress mulch or coconut fiber are recommended bedding. Depending on size of bag this will cost around $10-20 on average. Bedding needs to be replaced about every 2 months so this will be recurring but a general bag will get you around 2 enclosures of bedding. Stay away from Aspen for Ball Pythons
Food: Depending on size but around $1-3 dollars per feeding as the snake grows. Snake will eat once a week as a baby/juvenile, once every 2-3 weeks as an adult. Frozen/thawed is best route to go since you can easily buy in bulk and store (helps keep cost down a bit) and it is a much safer way to feed since feeding live risks injury to your snake.
Accessories: A proper enclosure needs to have clutter (i.e. plants for cover, things to climb on). You want a stimulating environment for your snake that also makes it feel safe. The more clutter the better. Silk plants work best as they can be easily cleaned, last forever. I highly recommend going to craft stores like Michael's. They have a bunch of stuff that goes great in set ups and are pretty damn cheap, especially if they have a clearance section. Decorating a cage well can be an inexpensive process. Things like appropriately sized PVC pipes work great. Amazon also has good choices. I decorated my California Kingsnakes enclosure for around $20 by shopping in the right places. Resell websites will often have people selling cage accessories for cheap as well. Something to climb on is a must. People don't associate BPs with climbing but if provided the opportunity, they will climb.
Vet visits: The hope is that you'll never have to take your snake to the vet but sometimes it can't be avoided. You have to find a vet that specializes in exotic animals and a visit can easily put you back a few hundred dollars. Its general advise that if you can't afford a vet visit, you should hold off on getting a snake.
For more information I highly recommend you going over to r/ballpython
I use eco-earth as well in my gecko cave but that stuff dries out really fast for me. Also, my geck likes to digs and kick all the eco earth out of the cave and make a big mess >.<
They make half logs (fake, it's a resin or something) for terrariums that I use to keep a couple catfish happy since they kept kicking each other out of the desirable cave. It's aquarium safe, but don't go scrubbing on it too much with vinegar or anything or the paint will come off.
Fairly certain this is what I have -- Link
let's address the basic issues with your setup before thinking about making a five story house for a BP.
Yeah, I'm using Aspen, I have a UTH coming in the mail, but I may invest in a light for day light heat/ambient temps, and just use it with the UTH for night heat, but I'm wondering if that's overkill. I'm known to spoil my critters a bit haha. I have two hides coming in the mail tomorrow, one warm/one cool. I don't have a sander/file so I'm worried that it may be too jagged if I cut a hole, perhaps a mason jar with wet paper towel in it would work well?
My hides are both kind of open, hence why I was thinking the rock one, my hides currently, one is:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L91BCMW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
and one is:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018CJNEI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
(Though they will both be somewhat submerged in aspen, was going to give him a few inches of aspen to burrow in, so it's not like he's completely exposed, I just liked the look of these and they had good reviews and looked like they may help with shedding when it comes time, to rub on them. ) I got the large corner water dish by zoo med, so his humidity should go up then, which is good.
[Amazon!](Galápagos (05346) Mossy Cave Hide, 4”, Green https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179QK0UM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3PLkDb2N95Q99) It came with a chain to hang it for snakes/reptiles but it’s removable.
Exo Terra Gecko Cave https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008YDHDSC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This is the hide I mentioned in my previous comment, and I love it. It's heavy and doesn't feel cheap at all, and is very smooth inside.
I own two leos and ones blind so I've learned quite a bit. Plus mine are both in diy 3×2×2 cage but i didnt need to make them so tall lol. I suggest buying this for the moist hide ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008YDHDSC/?coliid=I9JSZC9ASFTA2&amp;colid=2MBRCC0QH2E8J&amp;psc=1&amp;ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it ) as well as a bag of sphagnum moss and another hide like the one you already have as soon as possible and you should be good until you add plants and rocks for enrichment. Also with the calcium dish i suggest this bowl as its what i have in both my girls cages ( https://www.etsy.com/listing/559423371/stroodies-calcium-dish-for-leopard?ref=pla_similar_listing_bot-2&amp;frs=1 ) and its cheap.
ok thank you :-) and
im using these
Zoo Med Reptile Shelter 3 in 1 Cave, Medium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BNZTAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_So4MAbV02AC1G
Exo Terra Gecko Cave for Reptiles, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008YDHDSC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
im using these 2 hides for my humid hides the dark rock seems like it will hold it fine but im not sure about the lighter rock haha it has a sorta deep base
My gripe with sand is that it gets everywhere. Even small dig boxes are enough to have sand tracked all over the cage furniture, stuck to the lizard and tracked through the house when you take the lizard out for play time.
I'd be more inclined to add a couple of hides to the enclosure if your beardie is looking for a secure place to sleep.
https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Gecko-Reptiles-Medium/dp/B008YDHDD2
My gecko seems to like this one a lot .
Have a read over this. It helped me a great deal when I got my new BP, who is a lot bigger than my other snakes and it made me anxious.
Edit: also, I noticed in your post you say he has a "hide". Adding a second hide to the enclosure (one on the warm side, one on the cool side) really helps with stress so they don't have to choose between feeling safe and thermoregulating. Make sure the hides you use are snug, and only have one entrance. I strongly recommend these.
There’s a really great product that could help you out. https://www.amazon.com/Lees-20080-Kricket-Keeper-Small/dp/B001OVBDDM
http://www.amazon.com/Reptile-Hide-Box-C--Medium/dp/B00UCDIBJ2/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458954649&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=reptile+hide+box i'll end up getting these and put stickers on them to suit my liking
I ordered it on amazon! Here’s the link!! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0074AQVU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QjPNDbEFYAADC
Would this also work? Mainly asking because Amazon is much more convenient and Reptile basics is currently out of stock.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UCDIBJ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1JQAzb4VQN1WQ
Hah, awesome! I used to use regular tweezers, then got REALLY tired of it -- I'd have a tendency to crush the crickets if I happened to actually catch one.
[These are what I recommend.] (http://www.amazon.com/EK-tools-Craft-Tweezers-Package/dp/B00AZRGEF8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417109078&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=reverse+tweezers) Squeeze to open, release to close. So, you can snag a cricket by the leg or even the body and not worry about crushing it. :)
I just got a new cricket keeper from PetCo a while ago, too. It has two square tubes which slide through trapdoors high in the sides of the box. The tubes rest at a 45 degree angle and the crickets climb inside where it's nice and dark. I can just pull one of the tubes out and tap some crickets into the vivarium. :)
[Here's one] (http://www.amazon.com/Lee-20080-Kricket-Keeper-Small/dp/B001OVBDDM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417109329&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=cricket+keeper) on Amazon, not the same one I have but same concept.
I'm in the same boat as the OP but I don't have a tank assembled yet! I'm looking at stuff to buy for it though, and I want my snake to feel as safe and comfortable as possible. is this appropriate for a corn snake? The reviews say so, but I figured I'd ask to make sure. I'm also looking at climbing sticks/etc and found this but I don't know how I feel paying $20 for a small stick, lol. Any suggestions?
Going shopping tonight and tomorrow. Was ordering some things on amazon and was wondering what size of a hide I should get, reading the article you gave me said there should be no dead space in there hide. Here are the two I am looking at [One] (https://www.amazon.com/Reptile-Hide-Box-C-Medium/dp/B00UCDIBMY/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492216546&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=reptile%2Bhide&amp;th=1) [Two] (https://www.amazon.com/Reptile-Hide-Box-C-Medium/dp/B00UCDIBJ2/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492216546&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=reptile%2Bhide&amp;th=1) And if you dont mind I would like to send you pictures of my completed closure to get your final word on it
sand mat: https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Sand-Mat-40-Gallon/dp/B00FKBFYG4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=sand+mat+40+gallon&amp;qid=1565210391&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1
Hide: https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Shale-Hide-Out-Medium-Aquarium/dp/B0018CJNEI/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?keywords=exo+terra+hide&amp;qid=1565210430&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-15
Terrarium hood: https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Naturalistic-Terrarium-18-Inch/dp/B001HWBPVI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=18+inch+terrarium+hood&amp;qid=1565210464&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1
UVB light: https://www.amazon.com/Reptisun-Mini-Compact-Fluorescent-Pack/dp/B014AB76PQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=zoo+med+uvb&amp;qid=1565210520&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-2
Heat light: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Spotted-Wild-Blue-Terrarium-Amphibians/dp/B01K0XDP8U/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=blue+spotted+60w&amp;qid=1565210587&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1
Temperature gun: https://www.amazon.com/Thermometer-ZOTO-Temperature-Instant-read-Thermocouple/dp/B07H5G8ZZZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=temperature+gun&amp;qid=1565210643&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-8