(Part 2) Best reptiles & amphibian supplies according to redditors
We found 1,729 Reddit comments discussing the best reptiles & amphibian supplies. We ranked the 444 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
i definitely feel you; they caught my heart when i got my first frog at age 10 🌝 (she was an african clawed frog though. RIP Lily, i miss her)
so white’s need an enclosure with more vertical space than horizontal, since they’re arboreal. like i said i’ve got my adults in an 18x18x24 but i’ve been planning for a while to upgrade them to an 18x18x36, which i might get at the next expo.
they’re not super demanding as far as humidity and temperature goes, which makes them a great beginner frog. even so, i have a ZooMed HygroTherm hooked up to a fogger and heat mat so their humidity doesn’t drop below 50% and so their temp doesn’t drop below 75F. i got the fogger on amazon... and the HygroTherm too. together they’re pretty expensive but it really is worth it to get these frogs set up correctly. plus my HygroTherm has worked consistently and without fail for almost 8 continuous years now. really is among the best $70 i’ve spent. and for the fogger i should mention i’ve had to sort of cut a small hole in the top mesh of the cage to avoid the metal mesh of the lid rusting. i can take a picture to show you what i mean if you’d like. the frogs don’t mind; they can’t even climb onto the mesh and they never try to either. their safety and comfort is #1 so i found a way that works, lol.
as far as substrate goes, most people use Eco Earth coconut fiber. that’s what i used for years until i found josh’s frogs, and i switched to a piece of their frog foam. that shizz is a game changer. no more messy frogs, no more dumping coconut fiber out every cleaning, no more searching for frog poop. the stuff is great, and is reusable for a long time as long as you keep it clean. so that’s what i recommend for substrate.
for lighting, my guys have a dual light fixture on a timer that switches from a 23-watt UVB bulb during the day to one of these at night. the UVB turns on at 9am and it switches to the night light at 9pm.
beyond that, they just need things to climb on and hide in, and a water bowl to soak in clean (bottled) spring water that isn’t so deep that they risk drowning. it’s inevitable that they’ll often use the water bowl as a toilet, so be prepared to clean it every time you see poop in it. in addition to the water bowl my guys have a magnetic ledge, some fake bamboo, a fake vine with suction cups, a piece of driftwood, a reptile hammock, and a small hollow log in their cage. i can take a picture of the entire setup if you’d like. my female spends most of her time in the big piece of bamboo and my smaller male spends most of his time inside the log. my big male Burp is the one who’s all over the place and often sleeps on the magnetic ledge, lol.
when it comes to feeding, they eat every other day, 3 dubia roaches each. and every other feeding, one of their roaches gets dusted with a vitamin supplement, and one gets dusted with a calcium + d3 supplement. roaches that are 1/2” to 5/8” in size are best; any larger may be a choking hazard. if you’re not sure, the general rule is to not give them an insect that’s wider than the space between the eyes of the animal. sub-adult and adult roaches are an absolute no-no for these frogs as they’re wayyyy too big.
i’ll also occasionally give them a wax worm or a couple of phoenix worms to change things up. wax worms should not be given more than a couple of times a month, though, since they’re pretty high in fat and low in nutritious value. like froggy junk food, lol. i tong-feed all of my animals (except my dwarf frogs haha) so there’s never any loose insects in the cage and i always know exactly how much they’ve eaten. white’s take to tong-feeding quite well.
and that’s their basic care! like i said, they’re kinda expensive to set up properly but it’s so worth doing. once you have that out of the way they are pretty dang easy to care for. they don’t really require UVB lighting during the day since they’re a nocturnal species that hides and sleeps during the day; i just have that kind of light for them because they have a live pothos plant in their cage. as long as they’re on a consistent 12-hour day/night cycle, that’s what matters. they do soooo well on a consistent routine.
if you have any questions about their care or if i’ve missed anything, don’t ever hesitate to ask. i love these frogs dearly and am quite happy to help anyone out who’s thinking of getting some of their own. 🌝
Don't get a sponge. It's a breeding ground for bacteria, and the tarantula can't actually get water from it. They do fine with standing water, I see mine (I'm up to 25 now) drink from their dishes frequently.
Also, the B. albopilosum doesn't need a premade lair. In my experience, they're pretty good at digging out their own
I actually posted this info yesterday, so I'm just going to paste the relevant section right here:
Let's talk equipment:
Get the tarantula keeper's guide and read through it, before you get your spider preferably. It's going to be your bible for the first few months.
Tarantulas don't really have a lot of care requirements, and their equipment list is pretty short. An appropirately sized kritter keeper is usually fine. Not the best, but fine. You'll want a small bowl for standing water so it can keep itself hydrated if it needs to. You'll want some finely shredded coco fiber as a substrate. Finally, you'll defenitely need some 12 inch tongs for feeding.
Feel free to ask any more questions, glad to have you in the hobby!
If you have a glass tank already, I would not get a ball python. They don't do so well in glass tanks as they have high humidity needs, and the screen tops don't hold in humidity and the glass walls don't hold heat it. It would be an uphill battle with constant stress on you and potential health issues for your snake.
Corn sakes and sand boas and hognoses do pretty well in glass tanks though, and a 40g long tank would be a good home for them.
I would suggest picking a species first, and then start researching. Some basics that you will need regardless:
1.) Hides, more than 1. Half logs can be pretty decoration but they aren't that great for a snake feeling safe in. A good cheap hide are these, which you can order online. These are well made, sturdy, dishwasher safe, and are enclosed spaces with only 1 entrance - my ball python and rainbow boa are both very happy with theirs. If you like aesthestics you can use foam and paint to make them look pretty cool using this tutorial or you can purchase some of these
2.) Heat Sources: You will need either ceramic heat emitters, under tank heaters, or both. I would recommend staying away from heat lights as you need to turn lights off at night and most snakes can see even red light. Ceramic heat emitters give off heat but not light. I don't have recommendations for these as I don't use them. I do have recommendations for under tank heaters, which are these, from the same place as the hides. You can also get heat tape from Reptile Basics and they are super helpful in making sure you have everything you need to set up with it. ZooMed or Zilla stick on pads are not that great and can break super easily. If you do end up with one of these, I suggest sticking aluminum foil to the adhesive and then attaching it with foil tape, this will make it re-usable. STAY AWAY FROM HEAT ROCKS.
3.) Thermostats. You will need 1 thermostat per heat source. This is NECESSARY. This is not something you can skip out on. Heat pads and CHE's can easily get hot enough to fry your reptiles. This is the model I am currently using for my heat sources, and other people here use them too. They don't have a lot of crucial safety features, though. I am saving up for one of these Herpstat's. You can get one with multiple probes for multiple heat sources, and it has a ton of good safety features. Tons of people here use these, so if you have questions about which one to get, someone here can answer you.
4.) Security: All snakes are escape artists. All of them. Even the one you don't see ever leave their hides. A stack of books or some rocks on the lid are not security measures. You will want to look into lid clamps, or a system that slides in and has a means of locking. I had my baby boa in an Iris Weathertight box which had 6 locking lid clamps while he was in quarantine. Now he is in an Animal Plastics t8 w sliding doors and I have a lock on them. If you have questions about if your set up will be secure enough, please post pics here and we can helpyou spot potential escape routes. Or you can just search "lost snake" or "escape" on this sub and see some of the ways snakes have escaped. But rocks and books are a guarantee to end with an escaped snake.
5.) Temp and Humidity Guages: These stick on ones are no good. They are dangerous and sometimes deadly - I don't care how cheap they are, or how much of a budget you are on, they are inaccurate and the adhesive WILL give way and your snake could get stuck to it. This is the one I use. I have the "outdoor" probe sitting on the floor of the enclosure on the hot side (under the substrate) and the unit itself sitting on the cool side. This lets me quickly see the temperature gradient and humidity.
6.) Substrate: This is going to be highly individual to what kind of snake you get and what its humidity needs are. Sand boas will need a ton more than a corn snake, for example. But pine is toxic, so avoid that. Figure out what kind of snake you are getting and plan for a substrate for them.
7.) What to Feed: you're gonna have to feed whole prey items. It is highly recommended that you feed either frozen/thawed or pre-killed. I order mine frozen thawed from either Layne Labs or Perfect Prey. I keep them in my freezer and I have a pair of feeding tongs I use to feed with. I usually take them out of the freezer and put them in the fridge the night before feeding day. When I get home from work I take them out of the fridge and set them on the counter (in a plastic bag) to get them to warm temp. Then I get some boiling water, put it in a bowl, put a plate on top of the bowl, and put the prey items on top of the plate. I do this until they reach approx 100F (use a IR temp gun if you have one), and then I run the heads under a hot water until they reach about 110F. I do this for both prey items for my ball python and my rainbow boa, even though my rainbow boa doesn't have heat pits, it's just easier cause I keep them in the same ziplock bag. I then use the tongs to dangle the prey and move it around to make it look like it's "live". Some snakes aren't picky and won't mind a room temp rodent, others will want a dance. My boa is a champ and will knock back food no problem. My ball python will want me to dance the rat around for twenty minutes while she gets into striking position and contemplates the meaning of life, the universe, and everything. Ball pythons are usually picky. Pre-killed means you buy the rodent live, and then kill it yourself, and immediately present it to the snake. You can achieve this with a euthanasia chamber or twisting the neck. Feeding live isn't really the greatest, as there is a chance the prey item will attack and hurt your snake. This is especially true of adult rats, which have sharp teeth and claws. In the wild, a snake could see a prey item and if it's not hungry, it could run away. In captivity, neither the rat nor the snake can run away, and this can lead to snakes being defensive and just trying to hide while a rat bites it fearing attack.
8.) How to Feed: In addition to this, you will probably hear about "cage agression" and needing a seperate tank to feed in. This is a lie. Your snake will not associate your hand / opening of the cage as "feeding time" unless it is the only time your hand is in there. And it won't be, you will be changing water, cleaning poop and urates, changing substrate, and more! After a snake has eating, they need at least 48 hours to digest their food. If they don't have this time, they may regurgitate the food. Regurgitation is an emergency medical event. In order to avoid this, after your snake has been feed, they should be left completely alone for 48 hours, no handling. If you feed in a seperate enclosure, this means that you will be moving your snake post-feeding. This also increases your chances of being bitten. Your hand may smell like rodent still, and your snake will still be in hunting mode, and may think your hand is seconds. So feed in your enclosure. It's less stressful for your snake, less stressful for you, and you have a much lower risk of being bitten.
That's a general overview, I may have left something out there, but I think you can get the general basics. Next you should pick a species and start asking here for more specific advise!!
I wish you and your future scale-child the best of luck!
You can get submerged ultrasonic foggers like these or humidifiers with a tube attached
Source: My fucking vivarium
you've already made the wrong purchases. you should have researched and set up the enclosure before purchasing the snake. you should have listened to your gut and not purchased the "shop special".
you need an under tank heater that covers 1/3 to 1/2 of the enclosure floor. you also need a thermostat to regulate it, like this. it's extremely important to use a thermostat with a UTH. an unregulated UTH will run over 110F and can burn your snake.
if you absolutely must use a heat lamp to boost the ambient temperatures, use a ceramic heat emitter. any type of light bulb should NOT be left on 24/7, as this will disturb the snake's day/night cycle and stress them out.
you should have a digital thermometer/hygrometer to monitor ambient temperature and humidity, like this. you should also have an infrared thermometer to spot-check the temperature directly on the enclosure floor, like this.
you need at least two hides that are snug [little/no empty space around the snake], enclosed [only one entrance, snake should be well hidden] and identical [except for the temperature]. this is an example of an appropriate hide.
the water bowl should be large enough for the snake to fit in it, if they need to soak.
glass tanks with screen lids are generally not suitable enclosures for ball pythons. the glass is a poor insulator for heat, and the screen lid allows a lot of air flow which lowers the humidity. if you want to keep the tank, you'll have to modify it. at the very least you'll need to cover 80%-90% of the screen lid to retain humidity. if heat is an issue, adding foam boards to the outside of the walls to might help. but really, plastic storage tubs [sterilite tubs, iris weathertight boxes, etc] or pvc reptile cages [animal plastics, boaphile, etc] are better options than glass tanks.
Carnivore Care is an excellent source for ferrets recovering from an illness. It has helped many of my ferrets.
https://www.amazon.com/Oxbow-Carnivore-Care-Supplement-2-5-Ounce/dp/B006H38VZ0
Stay away from the desert sand. Soil-type substrate is best for the whole enclosure. Most people use cocofiber.
30x30x30 is a bit big, but if you go with something that size, just be sure to fill it with substrate enough to reduce the height considerably (over half). You don't want a terrestrial tarantula falling more than a few inches.
A lot of people use decorative items for hides, so the skull is probably fine unless it has sharp bits.
Changing the hide and the sound from your stereo are probably minimal stressors. It likely won't impact the lifespan of the spider, but if it gets bald quickly after moving in, it may be time to move the spider (or the stereo). At 3-4 inches, this spider will probably only molt once a year, so it won't outgrow an appropriately sized hide quickly.
At 3-4 inches you should be able to tell the sex of the spider. If the shop doesn't have sex labeled, you should ask about it and/or take some photos of the underside of the spider if possible. We may be able to sex it for you from a photo (although the most reliable way is with a shed exoskeleton).
Definitely pick up The Tarantula Keeper's Guide if you haven't already. It's a solid resource and one you will turn to time and time again.
Edit: added link
Picture of the setup
Im using a 20 gallon long glass tank with this surrounding the sides and back, its a perfect fit. A day night timer hooked to a non heated light. I dont use heating that sucks the humidity out of the air by using a heat pad for both hides regulated by thermostats one for each pad. Substrate I use is coconut husk, this one lasted me a whole year and people say it wont mold as easily compared to other non coconut fiber substrates. The tank itself uses a screened sliding locked lid. I cant speak for how to lock down other types of lids for tanks. The screen however I covered most of it with 3 layers of foil followed by tape around the edges of the foil to keep it attached and sealed better to the screen. A hole for the non heated light was made and I used a cut up piece of a zipblock bag along with tape to cover over the hole for humidity reasons. Finally the hides are medium sized from reptile basics, I remember when he could easily fit in the small one, was such a tiny noodle and of course a simple plastic water dish big enough to soak in and aid in humidity.
For times when he is in shed though, I lightly spray down the substrate and sides and back of the tank once a day. I think just spraying the glass walls and keeping that large surface area wet is good enough though.
Other items include thermometer, fake plants, gram scale, and one ball python
Awesome shot! He looks so chill.
Please allow me to recommend a digital thermometer over that analog one you're using... you'll get a much more reliable temp reading with it. :)
Zoo Med reptile heat cord...50 watts
https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Cable-Watts/dp/B0002DIWMS/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1510938950&sr=1-2&keywords=reptile+heat+cord
Go with the PVC set up. As some one who has used glass set ups and tried to find ways to alter them to make them better for BPs: don't bother. It costs more to make the set up 'right' and then to maintain it, because you will have to maintain it constantly. When I began, I thought I could engineer my way through and turned the tank on it's side, built a door, all kinds of things...and yeah, it worked, made a beautiful glass enclosure and I could see my snake, but it was never consistent enough to not have to check daily, like a PVC should be.
Stay away from glass. It's just not worth it.
Good choices on the reptile basics stuff.
This is the thermometer I use: Acu-Rite Indoor/Outdoor - it also keeps track of humidity.
Stay away from the Zoomed coconut husk stuff and go for ReptiChip - it's less dusty and slightly bigger chunks so it's safer for your BP. Plus that package is big and perfect for several full substrate change outs.
The water dish is not big enough - it's only 3 inches wide. Definitely won't help with humidity, unless you get 2-3 of them and put them around the set up. Get a ceramic dog bowl like this instead. It's big, won't run out quickly, and will let your BP soak if it wants to.
Use the reptibasic hides. They're sturdy and easy to clean. 'Decorative' hides are usually a pain to clean.
I've tried the decorative vine and it's no good; when your BP poops on it, the poop stays stuck and unless you're going to pull it out and sanitize it every time (the leaves are fiber, not plastic), it's just a pain to have.
Lastly, don't even bother with mice for your BP. Just start straight from rats. The sooner your BP is on rats, the easier life will be.
First off. Every 2-4 days is crazy. 1 approximately sized meal weekly is all he needs. If he refuses wait a week and try again. The constant food in his face is a source of great stress and will put any BP off food. Secondly. The pet store not having coconut bedding is no excuse. The habitat temps amd humidity should be established before introducing a new animal. I never run out of appropriate bedding. Always keep extra everything stocked! Amazon always has reptichip available
https://www.amazon.com/ReptiChip-Premium-Coconut-Substrate-Amphibians/dp/B0157O1CM8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=reptichip+premium+coconut+substrate&qid=1574989807&sprefix=reptichip&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyVEpCMUZHMDkwNzVZJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTY5MDkwMU1YM0czUFZBSjVPTyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDk3MzA4MjAwMk1PUkxXSThVQSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
Never had my corn do that yet in any of his hides.
I actually just had to get him bigger hides, and got him these: https://www.amazon.com/Reptile-Hide-Box-C--Medium/dp/B00UCDIBJ2
The medium is a little small for him, but the size below would've been definitely too small. He fills up the hide about 65-70%, and still has some growing to do before he's a full adult. (Another foot, or so).
The only thing he absolutely goes CRAZY for, is moss. If I give him a mossy container, he refuses to leave it. I have to open it up and dump him out before he'll leave it. For this reason, I only offer it to him around shedding time, as I don't want him to get scale rot or something.
K&H makes an outdoor weathersafe thin hard plastic mat that heats based on applied weight. It doesn't get Hot, just warm enough. They're used mostly in small rabbit and chicken farms, but can also be used for cats and hamsters, etc. And it's safe to put a thin layer of cloth over it.
I don't work for K&H. (I know I sound like a sales bot.) I have an outdoor cat that's been through winters before. This is what I got for her on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NVC7DO It has lasted 2 winters so far with no problems. Best of luck with your new little friends! I'm sure they'll.. Warm Up to you quickly.
Reptile wire
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DIWMS/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_h5QKDb8JWP1AT
>Is it really so easy as buying a small enclosure, something to burrow into, and some crickets every once in a while?
Absolutely! I have 4 Ts. I make sure they have fresh water at all times and I feed them weekly. You just have to make sure that your enclosure suits the spider that you have. There are two types of set ups: arboreal and terrestrial (trees and ground). An arboreal spider will need about an inch or two of substrate and then a good amount of vertical space with some stuff to climb on. A terrestrial spider will need a set up that is opposite of that. As much ground space as possible with a substrate of at least 3 or 4 inches, and not that much vertical space(if they climb too high and fall, they could rupture the abdomen). For a substrate, always go with something like Eco Earth as it is not only inexpensive, but arguably the most suitable substrate on the market. Make sure the spider has something to hide under, or in. I just go outside and find sticks and bark and such and microwave it to kill off any bacteria. You do not need to pay for fancy hiding logs at the pet store! As for water, a small shallow dish will be suitable. Make sure that fresh water is always available for the T. DO NOT use a sponge in the water! I see many pet stores even making this mistake. It is not necessary, and will be a breeding ground for bacteria and molds.
>When purchasing spiders should I follow the same rules as say, buying a puppy? As in, don't buy from a "mill"?
You'll be fine just buying them online from a reputable source. You'll know exactly what you are getting, and it will be cheaper. The only issue is that shipping can be costly. I've heard a lot of good things about Jamie's Tarantulas and I know she has a $15 flat shipping fee. Mind you, you can only buy from her in the continental US.
>I read "docile nature" but does that mean that a spider could recognize me, or enjoy being socialized with? Or are they just lovely creatures to admire?
Absolutely not! By docile, it means that they are generally well tempered and will tolerate being handled. You should not handle your T often, and many species should just simply not be handled at all! They will certainly not socialize with you or recognize you. Tarantula behavior is all stimulus and response, nothing more. They are fascinating to view, but like I said even with "docile" species, keep handling to a minimum.
As for feeding, crickets. One cricket, once a week is how I do it.
Well, that should give you a pretty good general idea of tarantula care. Of course, you will have to read up on your species, and you should research about molting as well. Please feel free to ask me anything else you would like to know, and I will do my best to give you a sufficient answer.
Good luck on your first T!
Take a look at reptile heat rope it provides even, safe heat. It works great for a fermentation chamber.
Looks good. I do strongly suggest you get a thermostat for at least the UTH. Its pretty risky without one.
Also, those analog thermometers/hygrometers are worthless, especially way up on the side of the tank. Even if they were accurate, which they often aren't, its pointless monitoring the top of the tank where the snake isn't at. Pick up a digital point-and-shoot thermometer like this one so you know the real temperatures.
Here's some options for you, there's many more but these'll get you started:
For what it's worth, as someone who has received a tarantula as a gift before (hilariously enough, it was a g. pulchra): think about the enclosure too. Pick up a small exoterra breeder box, a bit of coco earth, and a small fake plant or hide (I love getting fake plants at the dollar store to doll up my spider's bins).
It's a hammock lol. Here's my dragon using it and here it is sold on amazon
Technically you're supposed to purchase it from a vet (and obviously if other insects don't work you'll probably need to visit one) but it's also available on Amazon - this is what I use. I still use it every once in a blue moon - like last month when we had -20 temperatures for a week and the crickets were delayed.
I just put mine together this weekend.
Around $220 for everything, but you can fit two 6 gallon carboys and two 3 gallon carboys or a few 1 gallon jugs on the hump.
I am currently using a UVA/UVB pair of bulbs, but will upgrade to a single florescent bulb soon. What I believe they were referring to is this. It provides a bit more UVA and heat. For my UVB, I have a CFL 5.0 bulb. The combo is OK, but it still "beams" light just a bit too hard. I know how to prevent burns with this setup, so it's totally fine for now.
70F is on the lower end so no less than that. Outside temperature has little effect on what spectrum of light is being put out by the sun, however. As long as its not too cold, the Cham will benefit from getting full-spectrum and natural lighting. (For those paying attention, yes. The lighting spectrum does change through the seasons, but it's only a thing for photosensitive plants.. Not necessarily animals.)
Please go over the Care Guide and pay particular attention to the temperature and lighting requirements. Tube UVBs and good thermometers are a must as light and heat drive all aspects of her metabolism especially appetite.
Has your vet not given you Carnivore Care food? You can buy it yourself and force feed- have one of the techs show you how.
But review your temperatures first- if that basking spot is not 105-110ºF she won't have an appetite no matter what you do.
I'd also try black soldier fly larvae- they are small and easy to eat.
Stop the fruit- the sugar isn't good for her gut when she is healthy, never mind after meds.
Get some Bene-Bac probiotic gel instead- the meds destroy the gut flora and they feel crummy. This will fix that.
Reptaid wouldn't hurt either.
I think it was from a garage sale but this is the most common brand. It’s an “Exo”. They come in all sizes as well.
Exo Terra Glass Natural Terrarium Nano/Tall - 8 x 8 x 12 Inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041P5PBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_f9D1Bb3CEG7J4
I just put on a new background for my tank, and I like how it turned out. As much as possible, I like to have an all-natural look for my tank. The PVC basking dock that I made is totally functional, but aesthetically not very pleasing. I'm really trying to come up with creative solutions to make it look better.
I would consider just buying one, but I haven't found any good ones online yet. I don't like the floating basking docks, and some of the other ones I was looking at look too small and/or flimsy.
So my three options are to create something from scratch, decorate my existing one to make it look better, or to buy one online. Any ideas?
Edit: Something like this would be cool, except that this one is WAY too tiny. Does anyone know if they make similar ones but larger? Preferably a good 12" tall.
I'd recommend a couple hammocks! I got mine off Amazon and my beardie LOVES IT
Penn Plax REP701 Lizard Lounger, 100% Natural Seagrass Fibers For Anoles, Bearded Dragons, Geckos, Iguanas, and Hermit Crabs Triangular 14 x 14 Inches Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013T6XPVC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M2y4CbHSRS7K3
The rat seems like the right size. Some things you could try.
Replace the heat lamp light bulb with a ceramic heat emitting bulb. Amazon has them. BP's like it dark.
Cover 3 sides of the tank with paper. It will make the snake feel more secure.
Try different hides similar to these.
Probably the most important. Feed at night in the dark. These snakes are nocturnal.
I have that same hammock for both of my beardies. They both love theirs! I got it at a reptile show, but I'm pretty sure this is it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XWWW4FC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xYFlzbSYWWE9E
Maybe? They make bigger ones http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Cable-Watts/dp/B0002DIWMS/ref=pd_sim_petsupplies_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0X97JFSD5FBXSE8RD0XS
The first review I read: "I use this heater cord inside a refrigerator that I stripped out to make a fermentation chamber for homebrewed beer. I use a STC-1000 aquarium temperature controller to control the cool side of temperature and then I use this reptile heater cord to warm things up if the temperature gets too low overnight or in winter. I am controlling temperatures somewhere between high 40s to low 50s for lager and low 60s to low 80s for ales. This is a good price for the heater side of things and works very well at holding temperatures precisely."
Another one said it worked for a 4.4 cu ft fridge.
I need this carnivore care pet supplement for my sick ferret Dodger. He's having trouble with solid foods so I can use this to make liquid soup for him. Thanks for doing this contest, you're great!
Well, if he is starting to become lethargic, it is usually not due to the snake not having enough mental stimulation (though I do believe they require it to some extent, they don't need puzzles or toys like dogs, and people will keep and breed large snakes that are kept with no furnishings at all). It is wintertime and males especially are funky during this time- your boy looks like he has an adult's head shape and at 5 and 1/2 ft, I bet he's probably preoccupied wishing there were some ladies in there with him. Make sure your temps and humidity are proper as well- you can respond with them if you want- because winter temp drops sometimes cause lethargy in animals as well. Especially when most boa species do not require a cooling period to breed successfully, and you don't sound like you intend to breed him, making sure his ambient temperatures haven't dropped is important.
However, temp and breeding isn't the only possible cause of lethargy- if you haven't gotten him a checkup at the vet recently, and you continue to see decreased activity cycles, I would suggest seeing a vet. x5000 if your snake is also wheezing, blowing bubbles, or has anything else "out of the norm"- but it doesn't sound like it.
What I've found works best for larger snakes is to just give up on commercial reptile products. Most of those are directed at the overwhelming ball python/corn snake/other small pet snake buyers. A 5.5ft male boa will still enjoy the largest of their stuff, but it's not worth the money, imo, when you can build bigger better stuff for way cheaper. The vines and such are more for decoration- your snake really doesn't care if it has leaves everywhere or not, as long as he has a secure place to hide himself away. I personally tend not to decorate my enclosures with many green plastic plants because a) I'm cheap, and b) I could use that space in the enclosure for something more dynamic. I do however definitely love and suggest live planting an enclosure if you are interested in something like that, because it provides cover and interesting climbing opportunities.
What I do is buy a few pieces of cork bark for a new enclosure, or a big tube. These are pretty cheap on amazon. and look good, come with fake moss on top sometimes so it adds a more naturalistic element to the enclosure. Then I usually collect wood- sticks for the smaller snakes, and for yours, maybe saw several branches to size for him. Ones with large forks he can rest in are usually really nice. I usually then thoroughly wash the wood in a mixture of water and bleach (ratio as you would for your own toys/plates/whatever), let it soak for a few hours, then rinse and dry in the sun. Additionally I then bake the wood pieces on a low temp (~200-250F) for a little bit and watch them, so that anything else is killed off. You can then screw these together with a drill to create a cool climbing structure (would recommend screwing (haha) one or two for support so he can climb on them safely and not just have sticks braced against the wall), or just put them in there and arrange as you will. PLEASE be sure they are VERY secure- screwing in or adding little guides or rails on the wall they're leaning on would be good and is sometimes what i do so they can't shift. Your platform looks really precarious if it isn't all glued together, because snakes can and will knock shit over and more often than not, get stuck beneath them.
I'd definitely agree with getting rid of that platform, but you could definitely build a smaller one he would probably use more, especially with more sticks leading up to it and other things. You won't be able to find vines that will support him except perhaps several of these knotted/braided together.
Also, feel free to respond with other enclosure specifications- I don't mean to criticize and it isn't related to your original question, but oftentimes red bulbs are used constantly and as the only source of heat, and for a boa, not good. Do you have a source of belly heat as well, or another method of heating it? He also looks like he's getting too big for that enclosure, and if you're wanting to put in the effort to make him happy and healthy, a larger enclosure would benefit him greatly too. :)
First off, congrats on the tort!
Secondly, warning! Wall of text incoming!
Tank size:
That depends on how large she is. For the average female Russian's (I'm estimating about 7 or 8 inches in length), you should give her about a 3 by 4 feet tank. I have heard of people keeping their smaller torts (i.e. Russian, Hermann's, and Greeks) in the Zoo Med Tortoise House most of the time, but really, it's too small for the tort full time. These people take their torts out of the tank a bunch of the time to roam around the room.
If you have an aquarium tank right now, the caution is that tortoises sometimes will decide to go through the glass and not understand that that's a bad idea because they can see through it. In this scenario, you can wrap the outside of the tank in some paper. It doesn't need to be decorative as long as the tort can't see out.
My follow up question to you is: whereabouts do you live? This will determine if you will require an indoor habitat or if an outdoor one will be sufficient. Outdoor tanks should also be fairly large, as tortoises really like to wander around. If you choose to keep your tort outdoors, make sure that it's caged up really well so that predators cannot get in.
That being said, there are some great care sheets around. One of the ones I used when I first got started was this: http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Care-Sheets/Russian-Tortoise/ Be sure to play close attention to the temperature gradient that she needs. You'll need some thermometers. One of the temp guns would be highly recommended so you can spot check all over the tank. You could also go to your local hardware store and get a laser temp gun, which will probably be better than this for a bunch more money, but you don't need one better than this, really.
For a low budget tank, I've seen a lot of DIY tutortials around. One of the most common is to get an old Ikea bookshelf, lay it on its back, take the shelves out, and stick a solid tarp down in it so that it's waterproof. Then put soil, forest bark, moss, etc in for the flooring and put your tort in that. The trouble with this is that you really have to make sure that it's safe for your tort down on the floor. I have cats in the house, and while they're cute and loving, they're also assholes when it comes to other animals, so I have to have an actual table up higher with a lid so my cats can't get in.
Water dish:
Anything that's large enough for her to sit in comfortably is good. Make sure that it's not too deep (the water should never be deeper that chin-level), and that it's not too small for her to bathe in. She will want to climb around in it and move around a bit as well. She will drink from it if she needs hydration, and also just sit there if she's too hot. Make sure that this water is clean daily so that she doesn't drink from her own urine/poop water. Also make sure that she's able to climb in and out of the dish by herself. They make special water dishes for this. BUT, as you're trying to budget down, you can actually just use whatever you have around that fits the requirements. I'm using a small terracotta plate for planting pots that I found at my local dollar store because my tortoise is still just a baby.
White discharge is called urates. All reptiles do this; it's nothing to worry about at all, unless it's grainy like sand (signs of dehydration), or solid. It should have the rough consistency of toothpaste. Mine's look more like egg-whites floating in water.
Food:
The spring mix should be fine. Tortoises will eat roughly their shell size in salad in a day. Having a good mix will make sure her internal flora is healthier. Absolutely no spinach should be fed. Where I live, I can't get a lot of good weeds, so I feed a lot of kale, parsley, romaine lettuce, dandelion leaves, etc. I keep a list of "staples", and a list of "occasional supplements" that I rotate through on a weekly basis. If you're lucky enough to live in an area where you can go for walks and pick up a bunch of greens from from wilds, it will be cheaper for you. This website has the best plant database that I've come across so far and will be able to help you in identifying what's safe and what's not.
I supplement every meal I give my tort with Repashy's Superveggie to make sure that she/he is getting all the nutrients that she/he needs. (I have no idea if my tort is male or female right now because she/he is still way too young; maybe in a year or two I'll be able to sex him/her.)
I also have a calcium bone for him/her to nom on whenever he/she wants on the side. It also helps them file down the beak. I have an Exo Terra Sepia Bone for him/her. I just cut off about 1/3rd of a piece to put in the tank (again, because my tort is just a baby).
For special treats, I like to give my tort a singular raspberry, or whatever fruit I have around. So far, she/he's shown a love for raspberries, and cherries, and not so much love for strawberries. To encourage my tort use the calcium bone, I sometimes rub the raspberry all over the calcium bone to make it tastier. Sometimes, I will break off a little piece and sprinkle it into the salad for the day as well.
How much to feed:
Tortoises are not stupid animals, and won't really overeat unless you're feeding all the wrong foods. Assuming you have a high fiber diet, your tort will stop eating when she's done. Again, generally you feed about their shell size amounts of salad in a day. If she eats more or less, that might tell you how she feels about what you're feeding her. Some people will say that the 15-20 minute limit is what you should do, but there's really not a lot of evidence that that's the rule. I've heard it about 50/50 depending on the keeper's style.
Finally, here are some signs that will tell you your tortoise isn't happy/general stress signs:
If you have any other questions, don't hesitate to ask! This sub is sadly quieter than I'd like, so I thought I'd offer some help with what limited experience I currently have.
Good luck!
[Edit: formatting and such]
I have one of these and taped it to the lid with some electical tape. I have it hooked up to one of these dual temp regulators and it works great.
EDIT: Sorry, actually I have the 50w version - here's the link to that length
Are you going to upgrade once she gets bigger? That size is a bit small for a full size adult. My adult male loves the next bigger size up of that one (He's over 120g and fits fine)!
I use this hide for all my geckos young and old. They really love it, even though it's snug for the adults.
And do you have a moist hide too?
We have this in our cat's cat house outside. It uses about 25 watts, which is FAR less than any space heater will use (the one you linked is 400w). It's much more efficient because it directly heats the animal, instead of heating all the air around them (which inevitably circulates away and loses heat through walls etc.). It won't heat them when they're not lying on it, but in a basement that shouldn't be a problem. I can't imagine it gets that cold down there, and they do have fur, after all.
Hello everyone,
Earlier this week I got my first snake, which was a female western hognose. Unfortunately, the previous owners seem to have provided lackluster care (here was the tank, bedding etc she came in).
I have since purchased a 40 gallon tank, got new bedding, purchased 2 hides, added a larger heating pad, light lamp, and have a thermometer I'll be installing on the heat lamp...
...but 24 hours after transferring the snake to her new tank, she hadn't shown herself at all.
At first she explored her new, larger surroundings. But then she buried and I didn't see her. Worried, I just found her on the cooler non-lit/non-heated side still not moving much (and generally not happy with my bothering her).
Concerns:
Here is a picture of the new setup. I used this ReptiChip substrate (coconut husk), which I'm a bit anxious about because it specifically mentions pythons and boas, not a hognose. I followed their instructions using water to expand the chips and add some moisture, but the moisture is collecting in the tank (picture at the base here).
When I tried to find her in the substrate, I noticed a small flying insect similar to a gnat. Not sure if this is relevant or this is just something I should watch out for.
Many thanks for all y'alls help. I apologize for my ignorance. In posting this (and quickly purchasing more/better products), I am doing my best to care for the animal.
He should have a warm spot of 85 degrees and a cool side of mid to low 70's, but your humidity seems fine. Are you measuring humidity with a digital or analog hygrometer? Many people get these https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Economy-Thermometer-Humidity/dp/B004PBB1JE from their local pet store, but they can be wildly inaccurate. If you have analog, switch to digital right away. To get rid of the shed, place some moist paper towels or moss into one of his hides.
So getting started with a snake can be expensive but it doesn't have to break the bank. There are a number of ways that you can actually save money and still provide a more than adequate enclosure.
Let's assume you are getting a baby ball python.
Depending on morph the price ranges greatly. A normal will cost you around $40 from a reptile store or expo. Morphs can easily get in the hundreds. DO NOT buy from chain pet stores (i.e. Petsmart, Petco.) Their animals are often sick/unhealthy. Buy from a reputable breeder/reptile store.
When picking out a snake, look for signs of disease/injury/mites. Common things are Respiratory infections, mites, thermal burns, mouth rot and scale rot. Check the belly for discoloration/signs of injury. Check around the mouth for any bubbling and see if you can get the breeder/store worked to get it to open its mouth. A healthy mouth will be nice and pink. Check around the mouth/eyes and under the chin for mites. These will look like small black specs that are often lodged under/between scales.
Enclosure: Appropriate size to start out with would be a 20gal long. Brand new this can cost around $70 (price of All Living Things Reptile Terrarium) or more depending on brand. However, you can look on resale websites such as LetGo and buy one secondhand. If you don't mind not having a great view of your friend, you can also go with an appropriately sized storage bin. These will be cheaper than glass terrariums and can be just as good of a home if you properly outfit it. Will need to size up when your snake gets bigger.
You will need 2 hides. If you don't mind about asthetics, I suggest something like this https://www.amazon.com/Pangea-Reptile-Hide-Box-Medium/dp/B00UCDIBJ2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=reptile+hide&qid=1566576464&s=gateway&sr=8-4. Not very expensive, easy to clean. $10-15 each. These will need to be sized up as your snake grows. A proper hide should be enclosed on all but one side and be a snug fit for your snake.
Water bowl: I suggest a ceramic water bowl or similarly heavy/deep water bowl. You can get these on Amazon for ~$10. Will need to get bigger when your snake does.
Heat source: Either a Under Tank Heater or a Ceramic heat emitter are popular/good choices. Lamp+heat emitter around ~$20 but can be transferred to bigger cage when adult. UTH will be around $15 for first enclosure, will need a new one when you size up.
Thermostat: You need a thermostat that will plug into heat source to regulate temperatures. Most on Amazon are in the $15-20 range
Thermometer/Humidity gauge: Need to actively see temperature and humidity in enclosure. Amazon has decent ones that are not too expensive. Stay away from analog ones that stick to side of enclosure as these are inaccurate and the adhesive can get stuck on snake. Go with digital ones.
Digital temperature gun: Monitor spot temperatures. ~$15 or so depending on which you get.
Scale for weighing: while this is recommended it is not necessary. Price varies around $15-20
Bedding: Either cypress mulch or coconut fiber are recommended bedding. Depending on size of bag this will cost around $10-20 on average. Bedding needs to be replaced about every 2 months so this will be recurring but a general bag will get you around 2 enclosures of bedding. Stay away from Aspen for Ball Pythons
Food: Depending on size but around $1-3 dollars per feeding as the snake grows. Snake will eat once a week as a baby/juvenile, once every 2-3 weeks as an adult. Frozen/thawed is best route to go since you can easily buy in bulk and store (helps keep cost down a bit) and it is a much safer way to feed since feeding live risks injury to your snake.
Accessories: A proper enclosure needs to have clutter (i.e. plants for cover, things to climb on). You want a stimulating environment for your snake that also makes it feel safe. The more clutter the better. Silk plants work best as they can be easily cleaned, last forever. I highly recommend going to craft stores like Michael's. They have a bunch of stuff that goes great in set ups and are pretty damn cheap, especially if they have a clearance section. Decorating a cage well can be an inexpensive process. Things like appropriately sized PVC pipes work great. Amazon also has good choices. I decorated my California Kingsnakes enclosure for around $20 by shopping in the right places. Resell websites will often have people selling cage accessories for cheap as well. Something to climb on is a must. People don't associate BPs with climbing but if provided the opportunity, they will climb.
Vet visits: The hope is that you'll never have to take your snake to the vet but sometimes it can't be avoided. You have to find a vet that specializes in exotic animals and a visit can easily put you back a few hundred dollars. Its general advise that if you can't afford a vet visit, you should hold off on getting a snake.
For more information I highly recommend you going over to r/ballpython
I got it from a friend, but I found a link on Amazon!
https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Shale-Hide-Out-Medium-Aquarium/dp/B0018CJNEI/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr2_2?keywords=aquarium+tiered+rock+hide&qid=1565484895&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmr2
Are you planning on getting a glass terrarium or using a tub? Personally, I purchased a gently used 20 gallon tank for my young ball python for like $25 off of facebook marketplace that came with a log hide and a few plants. Besides that, I have another hide that is just kind of a black box that I found on amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UCDIBJ2?tag=goherping-20) and that’s about it for his hides. If you use a glass terrarium, I recommend blacking out 3 of the sides to make him feel a lot safer and enclosed. I just got a few pieces of black paper from a craft store and taped them onto the sides. The main thing, especially for ball pythons, is to provide plenty of places for them to hide, on both the cool side and the warm side. Plants and wooden sticks are great for that as they can hide underneath them and also climb over them. I guess overall, make sure you have at least 2 hides, 1 on the cool side and 1 on the warm side, a water dish, some fake plants or other things to hide under, and substrate that can hold humidity well. I hope this helps!
I also use a chest freezer + stc-100, but with a [heat cable] (http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Cable-Watts/dp/B0002DIWMS)
I used this http://www.amazon.com/Heated-Resting-Small-Animals-Inches/dp/B000NVC7DO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411928401&sr=8-1&keywords=heating+pad+small+animal
Idk if it will ship to canada in the mean time grab some hand warmers for a quick fix lots of blankets lamps directly shining on him maybe just turn up the temp in the house a little bit....
Such a cutie!
Don't stress getting it from petco, mine both are and are super healthy. The reality is that not everyone is close to an expo or can afford the online ones. No one here judges like that, in my experience! We all just love leos :)
We waited months to name ours and its now based on their personalities. I advise the same. Its easier to remember and seems more personal than a generic name. Ours are "Serenity" (who is very calm and loves being held) and "Serendipity" (who randomly decides she likes us or hates us depending on how she woke up haha). These are shortened to Renity and Dipity. We played around with Hunter, and Buster, and even Jerry!
For set up I HIGHLY recommend a point-temperature gauge. This is the one I have but any with good reviews will do. There are ways to test it when you get it (point at ice-water, point at boiling water, ect) to make sure yours isn't a dud. These are so helpful to make sure you have a nice gradient and just way more reliable than the stick on one I have. I also now have three tanks, so it ended up being cheaper than buying the stick on one three times!
We have an automatic shipment of crickets from Flunker's Farms but its been spotty and inconsistent size and quality wise. We had one that was all bottom-feeder insects.
Invest in some calcium spray right now! It's the easiest thing to use. Just spray some dried mealworms and throw them in. It's like six bucks at petco or online and well worth not having to take a sick baby to the vet.
Last, we noticed that short and sweet interactions have gone a long way in improving our relationship with them. Take out, hold for a while, be calm, put back in. I then instantly feed them so they associate me with food hehe.
Enjoy your new family member!!!
It's not unidentifiable. In fact, I already did it for you three months ago. It's almost certainly a Greek (aka spur-thighed) tortoise. If you see these spurs on his backside, it's a Greek tortoise.
I recommend you familiarize yourself with the care sheet from TortoiseForum. Here are the major points:
Substrate
The best possible substrates for housing Greek tortoises indoors are a 50/50 mix of top soil and play sand, cypress mulch and aspen wood shavings. (Personally I'd use cypress mulch instead of Aspen, since it's less likely to mold. NEVER use cedar.)
Food
Offer weeds such as Dandelion, clover, plantain, hawksbit, cat's ear, wild strawberry, and thistle. Store bought greens like collards, mustards, kale and turnip can be offered sparingly. Commercial diets such as Mazuri are excellent for helping the tortoises maintain good weight but again should be offered only in moderation. (I can buy dandelion greens in the grocery store here. Also, since your tortoise has metabolic bone disease, a SERIOUS condition, be diligent in dusting all food with calcium powder with D3. D3 is something that you'd supplement occasionally in a healthy tort that gets lots of UVB. Yours has been starved of UVB, and therefore needs more D3 for a while.)
Water
A shallow water dish should be available to them at all times for drinking and soaking and should be changed frequently. Tortoises defecate in water so keeping the supply clean is a must.
They also appreciate occasional misting of their environment and may see it as rain. This prompts them to empty their bowels and drink. (Animals need water. A bit of a no-brainer.)
Lighting
When housing them inside, proper lighting is essential for keeping them healthy. Mercury vapor bulbs which provide both UVA and UVB are a personal favorite of mine. A 100-150 watt vapor bulb is installed on one end only of the indoor unit and this makes for a perfect basking area. The opposite end should remain cool. You can also use a regular spot light for the basking area so long as it reaches a temperature of 95-100F. In this case, a fluorescent UVB emitting bulb will need to be installed as well. (You should ALWAYS have a UVB bulb in your enclosure. Replace it every six months, or yearly if you use a mercury vapor bulb. NEVER use a coil-shaped bulb. These bulbs are a suitable replacement for coil-shaped ones.)
Housing
Indoors, the construction of a "tortoise table" will suit the needs of these creatures well. A 3 by 6 foot unit made of plywood will suffice for a single adult and up to a pair of adults. Wood is always recommended over plastic or glass so that the tortoises cannot see out. This way they will learn their boundaries and it will lessen their attempts to escape. (Don't keep them in glass aquariums. The ability to see outside without being able to go outside can stress your tort. They don't understand transparent glass, and will never learn how to deal with it.)
In addition to the caresheet excerpts above, I recommend you give your tort a good 20-minute soak in warm (not hot) water once a week. Captive torts are almost always mildly dehydrated. Soaking encourages them to drink. It also allows them to absorb water through their cloaca.
Finally, although this tortoise is easy to care for, it is a serious responsibility. Just as you can't feed a dog nothing but table scraps, you can't provide inadequate food and UVB to your tortoise. A bit of daily sunshine just isn't enough. If you're here seeking help for your animal, I can only hope it's because you want to put in the effort to rehabilitate him.
If you want to keep your tort, do your own research and learn how to make him happy and healthy. If it seems like too much responsibility, put him up on craigslist. Mention the soft shell in the ad, and that he's free to anyone with tortoise experience. You can tell who's qualified by asking just a few questions about how they intend to house and care for the tortoise.
https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Gecko-Reptiles-Medium/dp/B008YDHDD2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1523557527&sr=8-4&keywords=reptile+hide
I bought one of these and I put a damp paper towel on the inner roof it and eco earth (coco fiber) and sphagnum moss and mine love it
First, let me share with you my little/HUGE hiccup I put myself and my chams through the last month.
I had to leave Florida in a hurry, and I had time to take my two boys' enclosures apart, and in my rush, I forgot their lighting (at least $180, easily), their supplements (Pfft, the ones I had weren't the best, but that was at least another $15), their live plants (which I wouldn't have taken them in the car anyway, but there's another $25), and then their fake vines and bendable vines ($37), total? $257, and why I know that is because I had to pull from all of my resources to make sure they had this set up today, and here is another view. BTW, THE PLANTS THAT I GOT THEM ARE TOO SMALL! But, they have them, and it's better than nothing at all.
Mind you, I'm talking about two chameleons, but what I had to spend to make sure that they were set up for this winter (I moved to Washington state), I had to do it, otherwise, I'm s shitty cham owner. I'm lucky there was already a humidifier here because I'm going to need that as the air is dry here and my Panther chameleon has already proven to be susceptible to respiratory infection as we took a trip to the vet this past year to get him some Baytril (antibiotic/oral), cost to the vet? $76.
I'm going to do a break down of everything that you're going to need for your Male Jackson (which I recommend that you start with a male Veiled. The Veiled are so much more heartier, they can take more abuse from a new owner, more forgiving for a better word..., I DO NOT suggest a Jackson for a first cham, and for that matter, someone who has never owned a reptile in their life). Anyway, here I go...
Set up:
Your total there is at $234, and you haven't bought the chameleon yet, but that is everything that you should have BEFORE you get your cham... Also, you're going to need...
Because you are new to this, having a temp/humidity gauge is something you might want to get as an aid to getting use to what their living environment should be like... so that's another $8
Prices my vary, depending on where you get all of your things. Getting stuff online can be cheaper, I randomly picked stuff on the internet and think I did pretty good for you, but you're looking at a nice little chunk of change just to make sure that you have the right set up to bring your cham home to, and I do hope that you'll take that and roll with it.
If you've NEVER OWNED A REPTILE BEFORE, I actually suggest that you start with something else. Bearded Dragons are awesome, AWESOME, reps, THOUGH, they are totally different than the care for a cham, it's a great way to start, and Dragons are even more hearty than a Veiled chameleon.
LASTLY, read through EVERYTHING on the sidebar -------------->
I would also avoid a lot of information that you'll find on the internet, and YES!!! That includes that one web site that probably is the first choice for you to go to when you're looking for chameleon advice. That site is horrible, save yourself the heartache, I started there, and I quickly learned that the site is a hot mess. There is never a straight and same consistent answer, too many myths, just no...
Hope all that helps, and thank all of the coffee I drank today. Lol! Good luck and welcome to the sub.
Using a mixture of coconut fiber and
this moss I can't recall the name of. Begins with anSphagnum moss. Anyway, you can't see it but in the cave there I have a dish of water for him to soak in that I will change daily. I need to get a spray bottle to mist the enclosure, though I have been considering a fog machine to keep the humidity high. But what I am wondering is what should I get for monitoring the temps and humidity in the tank? I am familiar with aquarium stuff but not really terrarium stuff. I was looking on amazon at stuff to buy, and wondering if I should go digital or not. Any recommendations?Try getting a repti-hammock to expand vertically. This is the large size and takes up about 1/3 of my 40 gal breeder, it should be big enough for your guy. I haven't had any real issues with the suction cups coming off either, and they're replaceable if you do.
But if this is a concern then putting it on the side is equally as dangerous if the hamster sleeps pressed against the side of the tank/cage (which seems more common than ones that dig below all their layers of bedding to sleep flush with the bottom).
I would assume most hamsters would move if they are uncomfortable - the important part is ensuring they have somewhere safe and comfortable to move to if they become too warm.
Regardless, OP should make the call based on their ham's sleeping habits and cage placement. If he has a tendency to burrow below all the bedding, then maybe place it on the side.
I'd also suggest getting pads made specifically for small animals. For example, this one has a lot of positive reviews from hamster owners: https://www.amazon.com/Pet-Products-Animal-Outdoor-Heated/dp/B000NVC7DO/
Looks like it might be something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Lounger-Seagrass-Rectangular/dp/B00XWWW4FC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1497648865&sr=8-5&keywords=reptile+hammock
depending on the size of your terrariums, the mist maker may or may not not be practical. If you plan to run the mist maker 24/7, it will use >1gal/day. Also worth noting is the mist makers send out quite a bit of liquid water, not just mist.
I have mine set up (floating) in a 5gal bucket with a fan running into a hole in the lid and the mist comes out another hole in the lid.
Issues with this set-up: 1) I have to refill the bucket frequently. It uses a LOT of water 2) The lid, though mostly intact, does not completely block the stream of water (and water drops) that are sent out in addition to mist, so I must mop of the floor of my tent frequently. These are somewhat tedious to deal with, but the setup keeps my 16ft^3 tent humid and cool enough for n. dubia to pitcher inside.
If you have a smaller terrarium that can't handle the water output of one of these misters, I'd recommend something like a Reptifogger which has a lower output.
Also something worth noting: that specific mister (metal, not plastic) does not fit in the standard float which is on sale on amazon. I had to take a blowtorch to my float to stretch it out a little bit for mine to fit inside. The plastic ones fit better, but the metal ones seem to have more reliable output.
It sounds like 73F is your AIR temp, which is indeed too low for the hot side. We should address the FLOOR temp too but I'll get to that.
If you'd like something to provide heat but not visible light you could get a ceramic bulb. They JUST make heat, but you'll want to get something dimmable because you won't want your cage actually getting too hot. When I was doing my research before I bought my leo I remember 85F being the maximum air temp you want your hot side to be, so I keep mine at or under that. I personally keep my red heat bulb on at all times at the same level, so it naturally dips at night and during the day reaches peak air temps around 83 or so.
This is a ceramic heat bulb that might work: http://www.joshsfrogs.com/zilla-ceramic-heat-emitter-50-watt.html
Pair it with a dimmable fixture like flukers, here: http://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Repta-Clamp-8-5-Inch-Ceramic-Dimmable/dp/B003H200QC
It's extremely convenient to be able to control the temperatures with that dimmer :) So you can use a bulb like that (ceramic) to heat your leo without the light. If you'd like a light for studying you can just use a lamp of any kind (a house lamp). It won't mess up your leos schedule, I don't believe. Especially since you'll turn it off and go to sleep for 5+ hours (sometimes less, I'm in college too) and let the room be in total darkness. I talked to someone who owned multiple crested geckos (which are nocturnal, not crepsecular, but still applies) and had them all in his dining room where he did work from home, sometimes until 1 or 2AM, and had his room lights on. it didn't bother them and he's been doing that for a long time. So based off of that I don't think you should worry. From my own experience with my leo, Noodles really loves when the room light is OFF (and it's completely dark in here excluding our computer screens and his incandescent heat bulb's red glow) but only when it's mealtime or playtime. He's not always in the mood. We keep our room lights on most nights and it's not that different from when we keep them off, which is nice.
Anyway tldr for your air heating problem I suggest a ceramic heat emitter bulb paired with some kind of dimmable lamp fixture like the Flukers I linked to provide the correct hot-side air temps while also not letting off any light.
For your lighting problem I think using a lamp in the room over your study area will be fine, or even just keeping the room light on. I don't think it's a huge deal based on others experiences as well as my own.
 
Now onto the floor temp/air temp problem. It sounds like you don't have anything to actually monitor the floor temp, which is more important than advertised on care sheets. You really need a temperature gun. You can get one easily for $20 on amazon, like where we got ours. http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiTemp-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B0053Y6IPE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459399701&sr=8-1&keywords=temperature+gun+reptile
The temperature gun will probably tell you that your hot side's floor temperatures are WAY higher than they need to be. This is what happened to us. Somehow I didn't know that the heat mat would reach temps higher than I wanted, why would it right (??)? Got the radar gun just because, (not believing I'd actually need it) and woopdeedoo 105+F floor temps on the hot side. 13F higher than what it was supposed to be! So we rushed and bought a thermostat immediately (on amazon they're half the price than at petco). If I were in your position I'd buy a thermostat as soon as I could, paired with a temp gun. http://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1459399998&sr=8-2&keywords=thermostat+reptile
That's a really highly rated thermostat on there :) What you do with it is this: you'll plug the thermostat into your heat mat (or the heat mat into the thermostat, I can't remember which), then place the probe that comes with it (a long cable with a little doodad at the end) in the cage as close as you can to the dry hide. Here's a pic of how I did mine: http://i.imgur.com/o1vyB0g.jpg Set the temperature on your thermostat to maybe 85F or something and in an hour or so measure the floor temperature with your radar gun. 92F is the optimal floor temperature right underneath the dry hide, so aim for that. Play around with it and get it just right. Be sure to check on the floor temps every once in a while to make sure everything's still working.
My apologies for this coming out as such a novel, and all the links (some don't like getting spammed but I like them for reference). If you already know all about the thermostat/temp gun stuff then I'm sorry haha! it's an easy fix, probably easier than replacing that heat mat (if it really is only producing 73F floor temps). P.S. regarding your gecko's eating situation- they're probably stressed and won't eat for a little bit. It's okay! They'll get hungry soon and will eat normally. My leo has been doing this stupid thing where he'll eat half of his normal dinner and then act like he's not interested anymore (just licking the worms and turning away), so I wait a halfhour and try again. Usually he'll eat some more after that, but then again he hasn't just changed locations and such. :) Good luck!
If that doesn't work out, there are different slurries you can buy off Amazon. When we adopted Oscar, our leopard gecko, his little eyes were crusted shut from a failed shed due to the previous owners not taking proper care of him. We had to drop the slurry on his snout a little at a time, and the little guy would lick it off. It's pretty inexpensive. Oxbow Carnivore Care Pet Supplement, 2.5-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006H38VZ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1HVDCbNTDZEQY
The tree in the back on the right is this All Living Things bonsai tree. The cave on the left is this thing, pushed down into the substrate.
First of all... thats a cute little gecko. I hope you get many years of pleasure out of caring for it.
But lets get down to business.
Don't take this the wrong way, but I think you haven't learned some of the basics... and I'd really really hate for you to get into a situation where your gecko didn't get to live a long happy life. For example, this is Ranger. I rescued him from one of my students who didn't know how to care for him properly. When I got him, he was in a poor state.
I want to make sure that your little buddy doesn't end up that way.
So, try something a little more like this.
1) 10 gallon tank.
Your plastic critter carrier is okay while its a baby, but it's going to outgrow that thing in about a month. Seriously, these guys grow up fast! A 10 gallon tank is perfectly fine for an individual leopard gecko. However, I prefer a 20 gallon long tank if you have the space for it. I'm sure the geckos appreciate the extra space to stretch their legs too. Believe it or not, they are actually very active at night! Don't let their daytime sleeping fool you.
2) Get a safe substrate.
Those wood chips look nice, but they're probably kind of difficult to walk on and some of the smaller pieces could cause impaction if he eats them. For babies I recommend paper towels. They're easy to clean up, and there is ZERO risk of impaction. If the white looks too bad, try the brown paper towels instead. That's what I used for Ranger when I was nursing him back to health. Alternately, you can use slate tiles, which look great and the geckos seem to really like. Just remember: NEVER USE SAND. It will kill your gecko.
3) Notice that there are three hiding spots.
On the left is a moist hide. It's just a disposable food container with damp paper towels inside. This will help with shedding, but they often like to go in it when they aren't shedding, so make sure to moisten the towels every couple of days. It's ugly so I put a fake plant in front of it. If this is too ugly for you, I'd suggest getting an Exo Terra Gecko Cave... obviously it costs a bit more. Likewise, you can get creative. I built Ranger's moist hide myself.
In the middle is the cool hide. It's just a flat piece of cork bark. It's simple, it looks really good, and they love it! They just crawl under it and chill. Once again, you can spurge on something fancy, but you don't have to!
On the right is the warm hide. It's one of those log hides, so it gets good air flow. You don't want something that will build up too much heat. It's sitting on top of a pice of slate tile, which is over the UTH.
4) Speaking of a UTH...
You need one. Leopard geckos can't digest food if they can't get their belly warm. A heat lamp does very little to help this. However, make sure that the hot spot doesn't get too warm. I'd recommend a thermostat, but I've also done perfectly fine with a mechanical timer. Mine shuts of for 30 minutes every two hours and that seems to keep it between 88 and 92 degrees.
5) Vitamins.
He needs a multivitamin powder, or you need to be feeding him "gut loaded" prey. For my geckos I just place some of the vitamin powder in the mealworm bowl. I also keep pieces of sandstone in my cages, and I dust the stones with calcium powder. They lick it right off!
There are obviously tons of different options for basically everything, but I'll make a list of what I bought. In no particular order.
Tank - Any 40+ gallon long (36" by 18" floor space) tank works, or many people build 4' by 2' by 2' enclosures themselves from wood. This is what I have: http://www.petsmart.com/reptile/supplies/habitats-and-decor/terrariums/national-geographicandtrade-sanctuary-reptile-terrarium-5210603.html.
UVB light - By far the most used and best options are either Reptisun 10.0 or Arcadia 12% fluorescent tubes, 1/2 - 2/3 the length of the enclosure. Arcadia is hard to get in the US, so I have Reptisun. t5 is stronger so it doesn't have to be as close to the basking spot, has to be replaced every year rather than 6 months for the t8, and is generally better. Here's a link: https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-26061-Reptisun-Fluorescent/dp/B00AQU8HAO.
UVB fixture - With t5 you don't need a reflector, t8 you do. Any normal fixture will work, but with the t8 it needs to be below the screen top. This is a good one for the t5 that can be hung and comes with a reflector: https://www.amazon.com/Sunblaster-904296-NanoTech-Fixture-Reflector/dp/B00AKKUBDQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1492359012&sr=1-5&keywords=sunblaster.
Heat lamp - Any large reptile heat lamp will be able to handle more watts and will have more balance than the smaller ones, but get whatever you need to get the correct temps.
Heat bulb - You don't need a reptile specific bulb, it just needs to heat well. I use halogen flood lights that give off lots of heat and can be dimmed with a lamp dimmer to adjust based on how hot the room is.
Substrate - Stay away from sand and other loose substrate, it can cause impaction and grow bacteria. Reptile carpets are fine but are hard to clean. You can use paper towels, but many people use either tile (my favorite, you can pick out textured tile and have a hardware store cut it for ~$10) or non-adhesive shelf liner.
Accesories - Any large flat object that absorbs heat works well as a basking spot. Water bowls raise humidity and are usually not used, so you don't need one. Many people get a hammock like this: https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Hammock-17-5-Inch/dp/B0002AQDKO/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1492359509&sr=1-1&keywords=reptile+hammock. For them to climb on.
Thermometers - The analog ones are terribly inaccurate, a digital one with a probe works well, I like temp guns though. This works well for me: https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1492359802&sr=8-4&keywords=temperature+gun.
Food - You'll need calcium and vitamin powder. Rep-cal works well.
Calcium: https://www.amazon.com/Rep-Cal-SRP00200-Phosphorous-Free-Ultrafine-Supplement/dp/B00BS96G1E.
Vitamins: https://www.amazon.com/HERPTIVITE-Multivitamin-reptiles-amphibians-Bottle/dp/B00076HT3S/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00076HT3S&pd_rd_r=V9S5NZ2T4FCBQZMDQX40&pd_rd_w=a2CFC&pd_rd_wg=axaiO&psc=1&refRID=V9S5NZ2T4FCBQZMDQX40.
Extra - Lamp dimmer if you have a light that works with it. Plug in timer so the lights stay on a consistent schedule.
Let me know if I forgot anything or if you have any more questions.
I had the same issues with my RTB in a glass terrarium. 3 things will help you immensely. 1: Get some closed cell construction foam sheeting from Lowes and line the back, bottom, and sides of the habitat. 2: Get some plexiglass and cover part of the top. I have several sheets so I can adjust the air/humidity. I maintain 60-80% RH with only half covered because of the next tip. 3: Get an ultrasonic mister element. Some people say their snakes won't drink/bathe if the fogger is in their drinking water (and they make external mount ones as well), by my snake puts her head on top of the fogger. haha.
Photos 1 2 3
http://exoticpets.about.com/od/reptilesandamphibians/qt/humidityhide.htm
this is better than nothing. you can build one cheaply, and it will give your snake a place to go to get hydrated. Ball Pythons are tropical species, so they need to have a relatively high humidity. I try to keep mine around 60%, and go a little higher than that if they are having trouble shedding.
I would recommend getting a cage that is designed to keep humidity in, but mine cost me a little over 200 bucks, so that may be a no go for now.
I have also used a hygrotherm (http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-HygroTherm-Temperature-Controller/dp/B0019IHK9Q) / reptifogger (http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Terrarium-Humidifier/dp/B0019IJXD2/ref=pd_bxgy_petsupplies_img_y) combo, which comes out to about 150 bucks.
Other than that buy a humidifier and put it in the snakes room, (preferably not in the cage), or get a spray water bottle and mist the cage a few times a day, and build a humidity box for the snake. (by far the cheapest option)
A healthy ball python will not have wrinkles or folds on the inside of where it's bent outside of shed. If it has wrinkles and isn't shedding then it is dehydrated.
For a 75gallon get one of these (Eco Earth):
http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Compressed-Coconut-Substrate/dp/B0010OSIHW
The two bricks should be enough and mix in with the sand real good. It'll help keep the humidity up and it's more like their natural environment. Make sure sand is sand-castle consistency. Not too dray or they won't be able to dig tunnels and not too wet that water pools end up on the bottom.
Read the stickied posts on top of the "topics" area and ask questions if you need more info here:
http://www.hermitcrabassociation.com/phpBB/viewforum.php?f=26
Also - check out the shells from this seller on Etsy. I noticed the spiky one you have in the corner. They like "Turbo" shells much better. You'll be amazed how fast they switch in these shells (links below) and never use the one like you have showing again - see links below. Depending on the size of your crabs you'll need to figure out which ones you need.
A little smaller:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/163508909/multipack-2-25-tapestry-turbo-shell?ref=shop_home_active_2
A little larger:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/163509545/multipack-15-2-tapestry-turbo-shell?ref=shop_home_active_12
I'd go with the larger ones probably as they'll wear them if they're too big and will always grow into them fairly quickly anyways.
Good luck!
We have an under tank heater with thermostat on the way from amazon and this for moist hide will be on the left
Exo Terra Glass Natural Terrarium Nano/Tall - 8 x 8 x 12 Inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041P5PBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ociTAb97ASA23
Is this what you’re talking about
I'm a fan of the ZooMed ReptiTemp 500R.
I wouldn't recommend using one of the soft heating pads meant for human muscle relaxing - they actually make cage heating pads for exactly this purpose! they are safe to be left plugged in for long periods of time, and the soft ones are not. I had one of these under my ham's cage for a long time.
https://www.universalrocks.com/fish/backgrounds/ledge-style/24x12-ledge
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008YDHDD2/ref=twister_B00UKU5Z14?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.etsy.com/listing/484539657/corner-pet-hammock-brown-hues-with-hooks?ref=shop_home_active_16
These three are my favorite purchases. The hammock in particular because I couldn't find any other ones that were not green.
I have an Ultratherm under tank heater mounted on the side of my tank for heat. The flexible heater is covered in styrofoam insulation from Home Depot. In addition, I have a red 60W lamp in a hood over the top. Together, these two provide enough heat for a 30 gallon (30"x12"x18") tank.
For humidity, I have a reptifogger.
I control both temp and humidity with ZooMed's Hygrotherm.
It's kind of pricey, but it allows me to go away for a week without having to worry about humidity.
Being wobbly can have a number of causes, and, first and foremost, I'd suggest making a vet appointment. If she is still deteriorating, try to find an emergency vet who takes hedgehogs (I know this is not easy!).
Was she walking normally before you went away? Does she have any other symptoms? How old is Dinah?
From what I know, WHS does not present suddenly, but there are other neurological issues that can. It also usually presents earlier in life. Our first hedgie had a stroke near the end of her life. It presented seemingly like WHS, but was accompanied by sudden blindness and happened VERY quickly. She was totally fine one day, and was falling and dragging her legs within a week. We were able to partially rehabilitate her, and she enjoyed some improved quality of life before we had to put her to sleep due to an unrelated tumor. She was five.
Being suddenly stumbly can also be the result of being too cold or having an infection. Do you know if they kept her at the right temp? What's her cage at right now? If you don't have a thermometer in her cage, feel her belly. If it feels cold, she is too cold. Do not let her hibernate. It can be fatal. If you find she's too cold, a good immediate remedy is to hold her under your shirt, using your body heat to warm her. Then, make sure her cage is between 72 and 78 degrees F.
I'm not a vet or a breeder, so I can't tell you with absolute certainty all the signs of infection, but I'd look for changes in bowel habits and appearance. If you suspect an infection at all, you should get her to a vet immediately. Their little hedgehog bodies go downhill very quickly, and an infection is typically easy to treat with antibiotics.
Lastly, no matter what, make sure she is eating and drinking. Sometimes an underlying issue can result in difficulty getting to food and water, and this can compound the primary problem greatly. If it seems she isn't getting proper nutrition and/or hydration, it may be necessary to give her water and food by syringe. We used Carnivore Care with great success. You just mix it with water and feed by syringe or let her lick it, if she will do that.
My apologies if this wasn't entirely coherent. I'm just coming off of sleeping off a migraine, so please feel free to ask for any clarification. I just know how stressful it can be wondering and waiting for an answer. I hope I've been helpful, and please update about how Dinah is doing!
That's not a humidifier. That's a thermometer and a hygrometer controller.
http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Terrarium-Humidifier/dp/B0019IJXD2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368540854&sr=8-1&keywords=reptifogger This is a humidifier. It works well.
my set up is as follows and should help you with your set up, assuming you're willing to invest in your animals husbandry and currently use a glass tank with a mesh top.
for each of my snakes I keep in tanks I have cypress mulch bedding, a hygrotherm controller, a reptifogger, a lamp dimmer switch, and a heat bulb that's too high wattage for what I need
I get the extra wattage on the bulb for a few reasons, mostly because it gives me a larger range that I can adjust with the lamp dimmer switch and this way I can easily bump up the temps if any of them start to exhibit RI symptoms.
the hygrotherm sensor is placed inside of the tank right around the middle of the enclosure, I keep it set to maintain 50-60 percent humidity 90% of the time, and when the snake is in shed I bump it up to 80% from the time they start to go blue, to the time they finish sloughing their skin.
by using the hygrotherm/reptifogger combination, it's incredibly easy to keep my snake happy and healthy and still keep them on display so my friends and I can peak in anytime without having to disturb them in a tub.
here are the links for what I use
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019IJXD2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (reptifogger, currently pretty inexpensive relatively speaking)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019IHK9Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (hygrotherm controller)
http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-TT-300NLH-WH-Credenza-Dimmer-White/dp/B0000DI241/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427830822&sr=8-1&keywords=lamp+dimmer+switch (dimmer switch)
There's one linked in the wiki: https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000NVC7DO/wabbi-20
Where's the food dish? You should offer a little bit of fresh salad every day. He probably won't touch it until he's bigger but knowing that it's there and making him familiar with it is a big step. I use this link to help find new and nutritious vegetables for my beardie.
It looks like you have the basics down. I really like the lizard lounger hammocks and recommend trying one out if you want to add extra climbing/exploring space.
It's an Exo Terra medium gecko cave! She loves it. We use it as her warm hide because it holds heat really well, but it would hold humidity just as well. Here's the size we have for her.
Oh boo they don't work for me either, sorry! Try this:
Digital Thermometer
Thermometers/Thermostats that measure a whole room aren't telling you the temperature of your hedgie's tub on the floor! Make sure it's between 70-80 degrees! (Ideal is around 73-77)
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MD3MFA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
CHE Bulb 100-150watts
Non-light emitting heat bulb. Red/Blue/Black bulbs emit light which messes up your hedgie's circadian rhythm. Decide which wattage you want by thinking about how cold it gets where you live and how good your normal house's heating system is. If your house stays relatively the same temperature all year, go with a 100w. If it's especially cold, go with 150w. ALSO depending on how big your set-up is, you might need a second bulb and lamp - I use 2x150w bulbs in Winter for a Sterilite tub set up - It's more efficient than heating the whole room (my house is old!). I also suggest having a spare bulb on hand just in case - you don't want to get stuck if one blows!
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001F9CV7K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Clamp Lamp
This is what your bulb sits in. The clamp means it can be affixed to the side of the cage quite easily - just make sure it's secure and won't fall in and land on your hedgie as they get VERY hot! As with the bulb, if you have a large cage, you might need two. Lots of owners will fashion a cover for their cage with a cooling rack and just rest the lamp on that. - like this: https://www.facebook.com/groups/382631271838164/permalink/527574797343810/?comment_id=582196128548343&offset=0&total_comments=6
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AQCXM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thermostat
This is what keeps your hedgie's cage at a relatively even temperature even when it gets colder at night. The clamp lamp/s plug/s into it and it turns them on and off depending how hot the thermostat is set for. When you first set it up (and when there are big weather changes) you will need to use your digital thermometer to make sure the thermostat is adjusted correctly. I have the sensor for the thermometer and thermostat next to each other and not directly under the heating lamp.
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AQD9A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You should buy a bunch of these face vine so that he has something good to climb around on. you also need a good basking spot under the light, about 8-10" down and slightly off the the side (not directly under) of the light. You should also replace that deep dome with a 8 1/2" to 10" regular dome, which you can find cheap at any place like home depot.
Depending on how old he is, he might eat more or less crickets. I started out feeding my veiled chameleon ~10 a day, he's up to 15-20 a day now.
As far as watering goes, you should mist him as much as needed, I recommend this hydrometer to get you going. Keep it between 40-80% humidity.
As long as his basking spot is between 85-90 degrees during the winter, during the day, he should be fine. It's natural for them to get colder at night (they're native to Yemen where it's 40°f some nights).
As long as it's not below 55- 60° at the coldest he should be fine.
https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Hammock-17-5-Inch/dp/B0002AQDKO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485410801&sr=8-1&keywords=reptile+hammock
This is probably my favorite tool for measuring temperatures in any location in your terrarium. It's extremely accurate for surface temperatures and ambient temperatures.
I use this terrarium once they're larger but I invested because I raise mantids as pets quite often.
For a twig, I use this
And for foliage I use this with the suction cup plonked near the top and the leaves hanging down that I found in the reptile section.
The fish and reptile sections at your local pet store are going to be your favorite aisles from now on.
For substrate a lot of people here prefer dirt (NEVER from outside, there are all kinds of parasites and mites in outside dirt!) But I prefer coconut fiber as my substrate because it's naturally antibiotic and will hinder fungal and bacterial growth, and smell nicer too.
You'll really come to love these little guys, and here's why. Mantids, unlike most "bugs" hunt via sight, not vibration. This means they move and act much more mammalian than other insects. They don't skitter, they don't make sudden scary movements or bite or attack on sight (well some do, they all have their own distinct personalities), and they're VERY smart.
Mantids have been known to be receptive to operant conditioning, AKA they can be trained like a dog would. You should try to handle them (gently and with clean hands) as they grow up, every couple of days, and by the time they're adults they'll readily calmly hang out with you whenever you want. You can plop them on your arm as you do computer stuff or whatever. They're very docile creatures most of the time and make great pets. Just be careful because they're fragile.
As others said, keep humidity around 50% and if they're Tenodera Sinesis then temperature should hover around 70F at night and 80F during the day, which means you'll want a dome reptile lamp and you'll need to figure our the appropriate distance from the top of the cage to place it. Don't place it right on top, the mantids love to hang out on top upside down and a lamp right there would fry them. Make sure there's at least 1 cool spot for them to cool off.
As for food and water, once they're a little bigger the crickets at the pet store should work fine. If they're super picky there are lots of online mantis stores that sell larger flies. and whet a sponge or paper towel in there to help with the humidity.
Lets not use substrate as that causes it's own problems.
Lets try to focus on identifying and correcting the cause of the issue that has him unable to perch.
> I use a 60 watt blue day bulb
That's one problem. Turn that off right now and remove it.
It's a strong UVa emitter and it will blind them (snow blindness)
I ask because experience has taught me that people get these kits sold to them and they're often supplied with things that don't help or harm the animal.
It'll take a few days to get him to heal from the UV burn on his retina.
Till then you'll have to hand feed him (use a pair of tongs that you can get a fish store)
As for the visible light and heat source.
you'll have to order a light bulb online- these are the best things... get a 60-75 and 95 watt light
Later on you can get a 10" clamp light... those are to be found at home depot for the heat source.
then we can get some perches setup I recommend a bendable "jungle vine" that you can use for that.
Of course, there's a little write up on the heat source placement and perch placement so that the animal reduces the chances of being burned.
until then, the best thing you can do is to let him have access to direct sunlight (and shade so it can self regulate) and let him bask a in the daytime. (early morning and evenings are best)
That will speed healing and help with him generally until we can get all of this setup and handled.
Let me know if there's any questions :)
I've had the same issue with finding a good size Ficus... turns out, i can just use a weak looking one and run fake vines through it (this kind) at least for the time being until I can find the right size ficus or grow one myself... lol.
I even asked around at multiple nurseries, they for some reason (unknown to them too) cannot get the size I'm looking for, they're either too small or huge ones you would plant in the ground outside.
Here's what I have in my 28"x28" C&C set up:
8.5" clamp lamp dome
100 watt ceramic infrared heat emitter
Thermostat (It's for reptiles, so I keep it on the very lowest setting for about 75 degrees. I also have a separate thermometer in her cage to make sure.
Judging by the single door, they look like Exo Terra Nano Tall Terrarium. They're 8"x8"x12". I use the mini tall that are 12"x12"x18" for my arboreals.
Edit: I would like to add, if you're considering buying one (or some) of these cages, I don't recommend ordering them online. I bought 2 from Amazon. One showed up fine, but the other one (according to the FedEx tracking site) made it to the FedEx facility nearest me, was marked "damaged" and returned to the seller. They issued me a refund, and I ordered a replacement. When it arrived at my house, one of the glass walls was broken. So, of the 3 I ordered, only 1 made it intact. I got another refund on the 3rd one and went to Pet Smart to buy one.
The problem with shipping them is when they're packaged, the glass doors aren't installed, they're just taped together and loose inside the terrarium. So you're basically shipping a large glass box with 2 panes of glass rattling around inside. And neither of the sellers I ordered from on Amazon even marked the boxes "fragile" or "glass".
Here are the pics https://imgur.com/a/c82oDhl
Before the barrage of hate like I got from my vet. Please read the below.
I moved him from the cage due to him falling since he was growing weak.
He like to drink water from the medicine cup. I still do mist but I noticed when he was young the misting systems and the dripper bothered him.
I do have lights but they are over him in the plastic tube as you can see that it is lit. I use the following light for sun and a 40 watt for warmth. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255OSG/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_6?smid=A2A02U6YIW6LGE&psc=1
I usually have more branches and leaves but I moved them to a smaller enclosure when he started to appear ready to fall so that if he did it would be a shorter fall and I threw in t shirts at the bottom so that would help too. After awhile he wouldn't even try to climb on branches so I moved him to the tupperware container he is now in and I have a water dish in there for him. I still spray him lightly but I do watch him drink.
The branches and leaves are
https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Jungle-Vine-Large/dp/B003PAY0B2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=exo+terra+vine&qid=1567192478&s=gateway&sr=8-1
https://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Repta-Vines-Pothos-Reptiles-Amphibians/dp/B0009YEB70/ref=pd_sim_199_1/134-6895899-2549434?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0009YEB70&pd_rd_r=a6bf8eaf-e407-48fa-884e-3e58b35e5c38&pd_rd_w=5ivkF&pd_rd_wg=ohIaT&pf_rd_p=5c130f77-a5ef-4ffd-9db1-c29a354f52f9&pf_rd_r=FTR0ZJFA7S1MNKNTNNJK&psc=1&refRID=FTR0ZJFA7S1MNKNTNNJK
​
I have used the Zoo Med Reptibreeze Open Air Screen Cage since I got him first starting out with small when I received him then moving up to Medium then Large. As get got older I moved him down to the Medium as he wasn't exploring as much.
When moving in the past I have not noticed him to get stressed.
Also let me be more clear. I moved and I noticed that he didn't eat many crickets the first two weeks. Then I got him a new batch and he usually eats a few when they hit the cage. He didn't go after a single one. I know they can be picky eaters so I didn't panic. I order some Green Horn Worms and waited but he did not eat those either. By this time he started to show that he was losing weight rather fast. I called the vet the said they could see me the next week. I went they cave me calcium drops and carnivore care. I tried it for 2 weeks and now not sure what to do. I know Panther Chameleons grow to be 6 to 8 years old in captivity but that's usually just a best guess from my understanding.
Looks like healthy mycelium to me. Your substrate looks like that coconut mulch type stuff, though, which isn't ideal. You're on the right track though, there's a finer soil-type coconut substrate, that looks like this, that works better.
Here is what I am using. As /u/Underclock stated, this can be found generally at your local pet store.
Thanks! It's a lizard lounger: https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-REP701-Seagrass-Triangular/dp/B013T6XPVC
I knew it would be way too big, but the material was perfect for climbing and had great structure, so I used some creative folding to turn it into a hut. The suction cups are attached with tied leather cord, so you can easily remove them and place only as needed. I'm just using one to anchor against the wall and the cord from another one to tie it together so it doesn't flop around.
Mentioned the reptile hammock in the post, but, admittedly, it's a novel so I don't think anyone read it :) Any ideas on the questions I had? I'm gonna clean it up a little...
Yeah I'd say it really depends on the species but also your environment. I live in a really, really dry place so keeping any tropical species (or even most "normal" species) requires extra attention to moisture. I definitely need glass containers and to keep the substrate pretty damp everyday. When I travel to the other side of my state I don't need that level of daily care to maintain the moisture levels. I'm sure you'll figure it out with time, based on the species and where you live. Personally, I really like these tanks for most species except maybe the super dry species (or like wondering violins that need better grip than glass). It's a little bit big for nymphs but a good middle of the road size. I've kept Ghost's all the way up through full sized female Malaysian Dead Leaf's in one of these tanks. Good luck! 🙂🤙
https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Glass-Natural-Terrarium/dp/B0041P5PBE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=exo+terra+terrarium&qid=1567954987&s=gateway&sprefix=exo+&sr=8-1
Okay. Thank you. So would a bulb like this work?
https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-25156-Reptisun-Fluorescent/dp/B00A8RI8TK/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?keywords=uvb%2Breptile%2Bbulb&qid=1568919448&s=gateway&sr=8-12&th=1&psc=1
This is something you could try.
Oxbow Carnivore Care Pet Supplement, 2.5-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006H38VZ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TQXCDb4122K6R
My toad was the size of a quarter and I fed him 1/4 ml every other day if he was pooping. So depending on your toad size you wouldn’t need much. I’m not sure this is the exact product you should use but it should set you on the right path. Really try to find the Flukers stuff if you can.
I bought mine off of Amazon. They're really nice and would recommend getting one. Sorry for the long link, I'm on mobile and don't know how to format.
Link: Penn-Plax 14x14" Lizard Lounger, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013T6XPVC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_lkTRL1zlGFkik
No problem. I don't want to scare you out of getting him a T (far from it!), I just was alarmed by your post. I think in this case it's best to err on the side of caution.
I thought of another blue one that can be easy to care for: Avicularia metallica. They are arboreal, so they will require a smallish vertical tank (like this ), a small amount of substrate (like Eco Earth), some cork bark positioned vertically for webbing, and a water dish.
I use a mixed substrate of plantation soil and wet forest moss to hold most of the humidity, keep a giant tub of water in the hot end, and have a damp towel over the entire top of the enclosure (the front has vents).
For the first 4-5 years I used an ultrasonic humidifier that I hooked to the top with tubes, but that thing died. I've recently equipped an Exo-Terra misting system that seems to do the trick, but I'm cautious as I've read mixed reviews.
Edit: There are products like this and this that would probably be for small enclosures.
This is the one I have for my 100 gallon.
I hope these links help to the basics you will need. Everything else is just personal preference. But all together about 400.
http://www.petsmart.com/reptile/supplies/habitats-and-decor/terrariums/exo-terra-reptile-terrarium-15040.html
http://t.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/zoo-med-reptisun-t5-ho-terrarium-hood-36-l#
http://t.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/zoo-med-repti-basking-spot-lamp-value-pack-100-watts#
http://t.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/zoo-med-reptisun-100-uvb-t5-ho-lamp#
http://t.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/flukers-clamp-lamp-with-dimmer#
https://www.lllreptile.com/products/10824-small-bamboo-root-jungle-gym
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004PBB1JE/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486446181&sr=sr-1&keywords=Zoo+med
https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Digital-Terrarium-Thermometer/dp/B000MD3MFA/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1486446243&sr=1-1&keywords=zoo+med+digital+thermometer
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMI632G?ref_=ams_ad_dp_asin_1
https://www.amazon.com/Oxbow-Carnivore-Care-Supplement-2-5-Ounce/dp/B006H38VZ0/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=carnivore+care&qid=1557356251&s=gateway&sr=8-2
http://www.amazon.com/Reptile-Hide-Box-C--Medium/dp/B00UCDIBJ2/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1458954649&sr=1-1&keywords=reptile+hide+box i'll end up getting these and put stickers on them to suit my liking
I'm looking at [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Pawliss-Digital-Terrarium-Thermometer-Hygrometer/dp/B017Z7Y6FK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458932962&sr=8-1&keywords=digital+thermometer+hygrometer+with+probe), I should be able to mount it in the bottom, run the probe cord through a vent hole.
Nope I ordered it from amazon
Would this also work? Mainly asking because Amazon is much more convenient and Reptile basics is currently out of stock.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UCDIBJ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1JQAzb4VQN1WQ
Something else...I've had him since Sunday night. He ate yesterday (Monday) about 20 crickets but wouldn't eat a second time so I ended up having to take them out of his cage. I put 10 crickets in this morning and still not eating just yet. Is he stressed?
I'm using these thermometers on the back a little above halfway up about where his basking spot is: http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Economy-Thermometer-Humidity/dp/B004PBB1JE/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
On the warm side...83ish....on the cool side...70ish. I have a 100w basking light sitting on the lid and on the cool side the Reptisun 10.0 compact (for now)....why the low temps?? Should I get a higher wattage for basking and if so...what wattage should I try? 150w? What about UVB? I'm probably going to order the Reptisun 10.0 tube with a hood...deciding on the hood right now. I've just gotta figure out if this thermometer (which gets good reviews from beardie owners) is accurate or if I need to add maybe a 75w lamp with the 100w or bump up to a 150w or what...the temperatures are really stressing me out right now and I know he may be stressed at first but I feel like if his temps were higher that he'd be eating regardless...
Thanks for all of the help...I really want to get this temperature thing under control. He's been very active and attentive and appears healthy and doesn't show any signs of being unhealthy...I'm just worried about those temps, though.
Thanks again!
With a temperature controller and a heat source of some kind, you can easily get a chest freezer into the 70s.
I recommend one of these. I use the 100w one and don't have a complaint.
http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Cable-Watts/dp/B0002DIWMS/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1415229024&sr=1-2&keywords=zoomed+heat+cable
I have this which I used to use with my rats. It's sort of medium-warm, nothing that ever gets too hot. But it's warm enough that it's only comfortable if you put fleece cover on it. The mat and about 2ft of cord are really chew-safe.
I'd also look into getting supplements for your bun...just cause she's older the cold may make her joints ache. Oxbow sells some, I've seen them at pet stores. They are little timothy treats that have supplements for age, health, etc.
What do you feed her currently? You could try giving her a bit of alfalfa to gain weight. That way she will have some built-in insulation :)
Zoo Med Mesh Reptile Hammock, 17.5-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AQDKO/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_1LZ4yb5DWJ438
For ten gallon tank
Going shopping tonight and tomorrow. Was ordering some things on amazon and was wondering what size of a hide I should get, reading the article you gave me said there should be no dead space in there hide. Here are the two I am looking at [One] (https://www.amazon.com/Reptile-Hide-Box-C-Medium/dp/B00UCDIBMY/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1492216546&sr=1-3&keywords=reptile%2Bhide&th=1) [Two] (https://www.amazon.com/Reptile-Hide-Box-C-Medium/dp/B00UCDIBJ2/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1492216546&sr=1-3&keywords=reptile%2Bhide&th=1) And if you dont mind I would like to send you pictures of my completed closure to get your final word on it
I believe this is the one I use, but it would need to be put on a thermostat to make sure it doesn't overheat. I have mine under the "warm" side of the tank with a hide over it so they can feel secure and warm their bellies. I use paper towels on top. Then then cool side is where I have the humid hide for shedding assistance :)
Aw, poor baby! She is very lucky to have a caring home! Unfortunately not all PetSmarts are created equal and it sounds like you guys had a run in with a bad one :( I'm very glad they gave her to you so you could get her back on her little feet! I have a few Cresties that used to love love love crickets and now turn their noses up at them, so sometimes their tastes do change as they age. Have you tried Dubia or Black Soldier Fly Larve ("Calciworms")?
I have one of these http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Cable-Watts/dp/B0002DIWMS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1422038811&sr=8-4&keywords=reptile+heater+cable wrapped around the inside of my chest freezer. It could easily hit 100F in my 7 cf freezer. If you want higher temps, go for more wattage. Your fridge/freezer will be fine.
Yeah. Whenever my ferrets get sick (I only have one who is a runt who gets sick).. I will feed them Oxbow Carnivore Care.
http://www.amazon.com/Oxbow-Carnivore-Care-Supplement-2-5-Ounce/dp/B006H38VZ0/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421335897&sr=8-2-fkmr1&keywords=oxbow+critter+care
It has a milkshake-like consistancy so it is easier to eat. When ferrets are sick - they do not have much energy to crunch their hard food. I also give them Blue Wilderness wet cat food and mix a little warm water in it.
http://www.petfooddirect.com/productimages/3021077011_lg.jpg
Duck soup also works. http://www.petco.com/product/111667/Marshall-Pet-Products-Uncle-Jims-Original-Duk-Soup-Mix-Ferret-Food-Supplement-And-Dietary-Aid.aspx
Local reptile shop near me, this is is the product:
http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Hammock-17-Inch/dp/B0002AQDKO
http://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Glass-Natural-Terrarium/dp/B0041P5PBE
http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiTemp-Remote-Thermostat/dp/B0002AQD9A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420660835&sr=8-1&keywords=reptile+thermostat
Is this the type of thermostat you were taking about?
Penn Plax REP701 Lizard Lounger, 100% Natural Seagrass Fibers For Anoles, Bearded Dragons, Geckos, Iguanas, and Hermit Crabs Triangular 14 x 14 Inches Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013T6XPVC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6jHVCbTCA1HQF
I bought this one for mine, it has adjustable suction cups so you can put it anywhere. It really adds a new dimension to their hide and I think mine love it cause it covers a good portion of their tank so they feel even more hidden when outside of their hides
I don't have one for my axie, (no room, and it would totally throw off my aesthetic! :P), but I've seen people use reptile hammocks like this in their tanks and axies love them. One thing to keep in mind when shopping around is you don't want one with any metal attachments as it will rust in the tank.
i have one of those HF 2 stage pumps hooked up to a diy chamber made from a steel pot and acrylic lid heated by this http://www.amazon.com/Heated-Resting-Small-Animals-Inches/dp/B000NVC7DO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382821961&sr=8-1&keywords=bunny+heat+mat which keeps a nice temp when insulated
Here are the bulbs I'm using. I have not washed his eyes with the saline yet, but was planning on doing that today. Do you think this is a good idea?
https://imgur.com/a/R91RKql
https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-25156-Reptisun-Fluorescent/dp/B00A8RI8TK
They are in a double housing. I know this isn't the best lighting fixture and I'm planning on replacing it down the line but I thought it would have been ok.
OK so this is my plan. I intend to have my led strip in the back with the uvb bar facing the middle of the tank so uvb will be accessible to my chams from everywhere, then heat lamp toward the front with different levels of grapevine wood for thermo-regulating. 1 photos plant in the back under the led in each side, with https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DJ0QA/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I8VFJK2Z4Z68G&colid=1YYL895WRD22R for moisture on the plants and hopefully enough water to drink, this will be connected to a hygrotherm controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019IHK9Q/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3OKFSUVNZ1GZW&colid=1YYL895WRD22R. I was planning on having a normal basking light (daytime) in a double light housing and a red night time basking light also connected to the controller for night. After reading some of the info in the side bar i may just do a normal household bulb, no day and night but im worried about it being too cold at night and not using my controller feels scary. I live in NV so summers are warm winters are cold(snow) i keep my house at 74 pretty much year round but my ac does point in the direction of the enclosure though its across a large room it does concern me a little. Also i want to feed roaches but the wife insist there will be no roaches in her house, I work at a petstore so crickets are always available but im willing to feed what ever is best (outside of roaches) whats the next best choice.
https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Gecko-Reptiles-Medium/dp/B008YDHDD2
My gecko seems to like this one a lot .
I'm pretty sure that it's the same one I have. Here it is : Penn-Plax Reptology Lizard Lounger, X-Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XWWW4FC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_3YkqybV8C5CM5
HM! I didn't think about it being time for her to shed.
https://www.amazon.com/Pawliss-Digital-Terrarium-Thermometer-Hygrometer/dp/B017Z7Y6FK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480722282&sr=8-1&keywords=pawliss+humidity+gauge
I've had some bad luck with them (other brands), but i found these work the best. My friend that breeds royals uses them.
Ok great, I would love to help out there.
First off, not a sand boa, don't use sand. There are very few reptiles that actually do well on sand, this is not one of them. Aspen will be fantastic.
Lamp vs Pad: Both will do fine. The difference is the lamp will be better at raising the ambient temperate and the basking (surface) temp. The pad will focus more on the ground temp. Ground heat is good for digestion, but most snakes also burrow to escape heat by instinct. The pads are also known to get very hot. A thermostat is pretty much required. On the other hand, you can't have a white bulb running at night. Grab a nocturnal heat bulb (blue, red, purple light).
Personally I usually use both on one side and put them on a thermostat. With a thermostat you really can't go wrong. The thermostat will decrease the lifespan of any incandescent bulb though.
Teh bubbleh worked pretty well for me, and it's easy to make. The ultrasonic humidifier crapped out part way through my second grow, though, so I switched to perlite and fanning.
Once I start seeing some profits I will probably either replace the ultrasonic or invest in one of these terrarium humidifiers
If your outdoor temps are reasonable, then I would do as you suggest. You might want to start weaning them off the heat lamp. I spent the bucks on a ReptiTemp 500R thermostat to power my heat lamp.
Lots of people keep chicks in the garage until they are feathered out or the outdoor temps are acceptable. Just keep them away from hazards like sharp stuff, chemicals, fumes, dogs.
I use sand for chick bedding because it is so easy to clean up and harmless if they eat it. They will kick whatever their bedding is all over the garage, so choose something you can tolerate.
I don't think hermits would enjoy the hamster disk. You might want to get a thermometer + hygrometer with some automation (like this one), so e.g. your heating system will turn on and off without manual intervention.
Otherwise, your list looks fantastic! A tip: you can also weave the hemp cord around pieces of driftwood or other things to make it easier for your crabs to climb on.
edit: Oh! Of course, don't forget shells!
I use either the repti sun https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-25156-Reptisun-Fluorescent/dp/B00A8RI8TK/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1506132317&sr=1-5&keywords=uvb+reptile+light
or the 5.0 exo terra https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Repti-Glo-Fluorescent-Terrarium/dp/B00101JI2Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506132360&sr=8-3&keywords=uvb+reptile+light+exo+terra
I personally think the repti sun has a better light temperature which is the term they use for what color the light is and how it makes things look. The exo terras I use were just on sale.
The two primary ways of keeping humidity up in a PVC enclosure are: a large(ish) water bowl placed on/under the heat source, and substrate.
Everyone has a personal preference when it comes to substrate, but you can't go wrong with cypress or coconut-based products. I personally dislike coco coir (EcoEarth is the name brand) because it has a tendency to get dusty/messy, and I just don't like the aesthetic. I've had good success with cypress mulch in the past, but the unsustainable forest practices were making me feel guilty, so I recently switched to coco husk chips. Been very happy with this brand - both its ability to retain moisture and resist mold!
During particularly dry periods or shedding time, you can boost humidity by placing damp sphagnum moss under the hides or in a separate "humid hide".
This is what I use. Works well and is accurate within a half degree or so.
Since you already have a UTH, all you need is a thermostat/rheostat such as these:
http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPRTC-Digital-Thermostat-Heat/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376378371&sr=8-1&keywords=uth+thermostat
http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiTemp-Remote-Thermostat/dp/B0002AQD9A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376378401&sr=8-1&keywords=zoo+med+thermostat
http://www.amazon.com/Zilla-11939-Temperature-Controller-1000-Watt/dp/B002CZ0J3E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1376378401&sr=8-4&keywords=zoo+med+thermostat
http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Repti-Temperature-Rheostat/dp/B0002AQD0Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1376378401&sr=8-2&keywords=zoo+med+thermostat
You could also use some adhesive-backed vinyl (black can also help create your BP feel secure) or another kind of plastic to cover much of the screen top of the enclosure to help keep humidity in. Could be a way to continue using your current tank if you're attached to it while keeping humidity up!
Also, this is slightly off-topic, but if you think you might be wanting to get a quick temperature reading anywhere in the enclosure, a temp gun can be a great tool to have. Certainly not a necessity if you're going to have a thermometer or two, but it can sometimes help in erasing any doubts you may have about the temperature in your enclosure.
This one is pretty solid and affordable. Pro Exotics make one as well but it's twice as expensive.
There is a product by a company called zoomed. They make products for reptiles. They have a thermostat that has a photo sensor. This allows you to have a different temperature set for day vs night. It also will control a humidifier of you want that functionality.
Here is a link on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-HygroTherm-Temperature-Controller/dp/B0019IHK9Q
Searching.... searching..... this!
And it's on sale. Lucky you. :)
These [ExoTerra tall] (http://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Glass-Natural-Terrarium/dp/B0041P5PBE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426604104&sr=8-1&keywords=exoterra+tall) reptile habitats make great mantis vivaria, too. The one I linked is the Nano, but I use the Small; it's 18x18x24.
/u/organicfanatic
With a tank that opens up top, I've found this hammock works well since I can reach around it conveniently.
Last question(hopefully), sorry to bother you.
Should I order this for my coconut husk mulch? Seems like a great deal just want to make sure it's the right stuff.
Thank you for the reply, I'm using this thermometer and the probe is inside the hot side hide burried in the bedding https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017Z7Y6FK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also just purchased an IR thermometer gun and it got delivered today
Do you think i should buy a stronger heat pad? like 8 W for example with the thermostat? or should I use both of the lamp and the pad i currently have with the thermostat?
I appreciate the response, I will start reading the articles you provided
This is the problem hedgie I posted about a few days ago. I bought a new, larger enclosure for him and moved him into today. He was a bit grumpy during the move as I had to wake him up for it, but he's loving the cage so far it seems. The blue "ball" at the bottom of the cage is his hide...which he sleeps under. Underneath it is a pet safe Heating Pad to help regulate temperature in that hiding spot. It's designed for small animals so it only gets up to about 100 F or so (just over human body temp) and is under his bedding to keep him directly off of it. It's been enough to keep him warm in his previous enclosure which is nice. The cage is an Amazon Basics Small Animal Cage, Large which is a bit bigger than the previous enclosure. I've got to clean up his wheel and get it mounted for him, but after that he should be more comfortable than he was before. Hopefully this helps his attitude.
This is the one I got and it's pretty nice.
I bought this on another users recommendation, https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A8RI8TK/ref=ya_st_dp_summary
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AQD9A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
it has 2 plug ins for UTH or Lamp (total of 500 watts for whatever combination you use)
(it's what i have and use - but there's no temperature setting, it's like a dimmer type knob)
Yeah, I'm using Aspen, I have a UTH coming in the mail, but I may invest in a light for day light heat/ambient temps, and just use it with the UTH for night heat, but I'm wondering if that's overkill. I'm known to spoil my critters a bit haha. I have two hides coming in the mail tomorrow, one warm/one cool. I don't have a sander/file so I'm worried that it may be too jagged if I cut a hole, perhaps a mason jar with wet paper towel in it would work well?
My hides are both kind of open, hence why I was thinking the rock one, my hides currently, one is:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L91BCMW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and one is:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018CJNEI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(Though they will both be somewhat submerged in aspen, was going to give him a few inches of aspen to burrow in, so it's not like he's completely exposed, I just liked the look of these and they had good reviews and looked like they may help with shedding when it comes time, to rub on them. ) I got the large corner water dish by zoo med, so his humidity should go up then, which is good.
http://www.royalconstrictordesigns.com/ball-python-care-sheet
http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?127203-Ball-Python-%28Python-regius%29-Caresheet
hideboxes http://www.reptilebasics.com/hide-boxes
insulation covers 3 sides of tank https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GAD5G4/
substrate https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0157O1CM8/
iv been bitten once and it doesnt hurt, id rather be bitten then scratched by a cat
i used foil and tape (outside only) to cover 90% of the screen top
i got this hammock last week, its pretty big
I like it alot. Heres a reddit post of my setup
I alredy have the cage was planning on using it just for a month or so and will then build one once school is out. Also would this be a good humidifier
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0019IHK9Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1368539926&sr=8-6&pi=SL75
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002AQD9A
Honestly this really is a much safer/better trustworthy product, the rheostat only has three settings whereas this can be set almost anywhere on the board. its an on/off style thermostat. ( Rheostats basically throttle electricity versus cut it off)