Best round art paintbrushes according to redditors

We found 40 Reddit comments discussing the best round art paintbrushes. We ranked the 19 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

Next page

Top Reddit comments about Round Art Paintbrushes:

u/FrankyMcShanky · 8 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Pretty good. There are a few things for you to consider though.

The paint set is likely a bit overkill. I'd pick paints based on what faction you're most interested in from the set. For example, I'd grab a black and white for sure, then whatever color you'd like the armor to be and a few metallics. You can get a lot done with just those and then expand your paint library from there. If you order that set you will end up buying a lot of paint you will never use.

You likely don't need all those brushes. You'll be better off getting one or two high quality brushes and a bunch of mediocre ones. Most people swear by Winsor Newton series 7 brushes for mini painting. I'd also pick up a cheap brush for dry brushing, I suggest cheap here because drybrushing tends to destroy brushes fairly quickly and you don't need a great quality brush for the process.

I'm not sure what's in the tool kit set but make sure you get some plastic glue for more permanent and seamless melds.

Edit: I just realized I linked a size #0 brush. Get a size #1. #0 is just too damn small.

u/Route66_LANparty · 7 pointsr/Warhammer

> When moving a unit along their movement value'd distance, do you usually measure out the lead model, move it, and then move each other model in the unit in approximately the same (but not measured) distance to maintain coherency, or do you measure out each individual model in a unit to ensure not a single one possibly goes further than its value? Or is this something agreed upon by the players pre-match?

> If each model is measured, I could see some units (ie, conscript squads) being extremely time-consuming or difficult to deal with depending on terrain and model count.

Officially, each model. However almost everyone I've ever played with does it the "time saving way" when dealing with large groups of models. This usually isn't a problem when you are clearly moving them less than max movement range. This is especially the case with horde units that have greater than 10 models to a unit. 20x Poxwalkers for instance. Once you get used to playing, it isn't too time consuming for a single 5 model Marine squad.

> On the second question, is there a generally agreed upon "kit" or set of paint brushes to get before starting to paint models? In addition to the First Strike box I got last night, I also got the small Painting Essentials box which includes a brush (along with cutter, glue, and some small pots), but wasn't sure what other brushes I might need/want before starting to paint.

The "goto" kit for brushes tends to be a Winsor and Newton Series 7 Round Size #2 and #0. Keep them clean with Master's Brush soap and they'll last you a long time. You can find them on Amazon. At $10-$15 a brush they aren't cheap when starting out. And that's arguably more then you need for a first model. You can get by with a cheap bag of small "gold taklon" brushes from walmart or similar at first.

Here's something I wrote recently on brushes for someone else looking for some nicer brushes....

As for Army Painter brushes specifically. It's what I started with before moving to Kolinsky Hair brushes. Still use a number of their small dry brushes for small detail dry brushing. If you are set on Army Painter... The Wargamer series, specifically the Regiment, Character, and Detail brushes are pretty solid. As well as the Wargamer Small Drybrush. Certainly better than Walmart synthetics. Have held up well cleaning with Masters Brush Soap linked below. They just have never had the same type of fine tip you get on a Kolinsky. The super small Army Painter brushes aren't really worth it though in the long run.


I have a large collection of brushes with my better half. Bought her a large collection from different brands from around the world so she could try different styles to find the perfect brush for her.

Essentially, you'll want a Natural Kolinsky fiber brush in round shape for miniature base coating, shading, layering, edging and detail work. They will last you quite a while if you take care of them. Most people find they can do everything with a #2 and #0. A workhorse and a detail brush. Good natural Kolinsky hair helps thinned paint flow properly out of the brush, and holds an excellent point. There are a number of options to get a good Kolinsky brush:

As for brands, you have options:

  • Winsor and Newton Series 7. Well known for quality and value among miniature painters. This is the gauge by which other high end brushes are judged. - #2, #0
  • da Vinci. A little more but you can get a nice Travel Series for similar money to their traditional handled brushes. Helps protect the tip while in storage or traveling to the store to paint. They run a little smaller/thinner than W&N Series 7. - #2, #1. This is always the first brush my better half reaches for, if she's not feeling it that day though she'll pull just about any other Kolinsky brush from her collection.
  • On the cheaper side is ZEM. Had very good luck with them. Good companion for the W&N7 as I use ZEMs when painting metallics as they can be a bit rougher on brushes. They do have some ware to them after dozens of models compared to the more expensive W&N or da Vinci. But don't need to be thrown in the trash like the cheap synthetics. Brush soap does wonders. Set of size #10/0, #0, #2, & #4. Or Individually. These tend to be the first brush I reach for... since I gave the other brushes as a gift. I try to stay to my cheap brushes... If I'm not feeling it that day then I will grab a W&N7.
  • Other Brands of Kolinsky fiber brushes I own but don't have as much experience with... Raphael, Escoda, Connoisseur.
  • There's also Citadel's own Artificer line... They are also Kolinsky fiber brushes so need to be cleaned regularly. I have not tried them but many suggest they are similar quality as the W&N Series 7. Just a little more expensive.
  • When friends come over to learn how to paint up thier board game or DnD minis... I hand them a pouch an assortment of Army Painter Wargamer Brushes or Winsor and Newton synthetic Cotman so they don't need to learn on walmart brushes, but don't risk our Kolinskys.

    Then you'll want to keep it all clean with "The Masters" Brush Soap and Conditioner. Cleaning regularly will make a big difference brush life. ... Keeping brushes freshly rinsed in a basin can help prevent the bad buildup of dried paint to begin with. This kind of thing... or really any sturdy cup you have around that won't tip over easily.

    NOTE - You'll want to use cheaper brushes for Drybrushing, it can just murder brushes. Either walmart/craft store brushes you can toss, or just cheaper quality brushes made for it, like Army Painter or Citadels drybrush lines.

    As for paint... I use Army Painter and Citadel. Citadel primarily for anything warhammer to get color matches. Army painter for some washes, and anything else I paint (boardgame and DnD minis). Rither now I are only using Vallejo for Airbrush paints and a few premium metallics.


    There's a great guide that got me and my other half started over on the /r/minipainting subreddit.

u/Pukit · 4 pointsr/modelmakers

So what are you planning on painting? Are we talking entire models, or just detail work, or doing mini painting like /r/minipainting?

Reason I ask is that kinda gives reason as to what to buy.

I do a lot of hand painting as do a great deal of warhammer models, for these you need a decent set of kolinksy sable brushes but they're not cheap. I have brushes from the Army Painter, from Windsor Newton, from Citadel all of which aren't cheap. I have a decent set of synthetic brushes for doing lesser critical work but generally stick to sable for detail work. In honesty it's very rare to use a 00/000/0000 brush, the reason is they hold such little paint the paint can dry on them really quickly. You can paint the same detail with a 1 or a 0 as a 0000 if you're careful.

I'd suggest to work out exactly what you're after first, if it's to do entire models then check out videos from the likes of Owen at Quickkits as he brushes all his models.

If I were starting out fresh and wanted a good set of brushes off the bat I'd honestly buy this set by Army Painter. Yes it's not cheap, but it's got decent detail brushes, standard size and large area brushes. It's also got a nice set of coarse drybrushes.

Something else to consider is brush care, afterall you spend a fortune on brushes and then they split etc, it's a really sad day when one of my WN brushes splits.

A few tips from me, never fully load a brush, never fill it to the metal ferrule with paint, in honesty half full is too much imo. Always thin your paint. Routinely rinse your brush and have two pots to rinse. First water pot for a propper rinse, then a second pot to rinse finally. Dry by wiping along a paper towel. At the end of a painting session, take your brushes to the sink and rinse under warm water and use a brush cleaner/preserver like Masters. You don't want paint to dry within the bristles or the ferrule as this will make the brush split, so always keep them wet, don't let paint dry in your brush. Always store horizontally with the plastic bristle protector on, never leave a brush bristle down in a water pot ever. But be prepared that even a really well maintained brush, used a decent amount will die after six-eight months or so.

u/Roebic · 3 pointsr/minipainting

So this is what I found. Don't waste your time. Buy 3 Windsor Newton Series 7 brushes from Amazon(#00, #1, #2 for $40 bucks, just $10 dollars more than these) instead. You'll get much much much more mileage out of them. I have pictures of base coating 2 ork minis but honestly I was so disappointed in the Siberian Kolonski's that I just stopped. Out of the package they had dirt/dust/something in the bristles and I had to pick the fluff off the mini. No spring in the bristles, they never returned to the starting position. As I applied pressure to the tip the bristles would look like \ and would stay like that. The WNS7 popped right back into place. The bristles splayed and I had to trim some errant hairs. I had to clean and condition every brush I used.

I have lots of hobbies mini painting is just one of them. I have found that if you really enjoy your hobby one of the best things you can do is spend the money on quality tools. Sure I understand buying a $20 dollar grinder to grind something once in awhile but if you do it everyday you go out and spend the money. This is no exception. I try to paint every day, both minis and canvas. The brushes that OP linked are not worth the trouble.

The one redeeming factor for these (as I always like to say something positive) is after conditioning the size "8" brush will be used to lay down washes and glazes.

u/routesaroundit · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Yep, takes 5 minutes to make one with household items and you'll be glad you did.

Recommend a flat-bottomed Tupperware (tm) or similar container... some of these food storage containers have a depressed "channel" on the bottom and that makes the water pool in those areas, reducing the amount of actual usable palette.

But otherwise, yep, they make an enormous difference - as does learning to brush the excess paint from the bristles after loading them, BEFORE touching it to the model!

Also: using high quality brushes for detail work. Sable hair is da best! Expensive, but the results speak for themselves. No need to go high quality for base coating or drybrushing, cheapo brushes will work fine for those. I use this brush for my detail work and love it to death:

Also: clean your damn brushes! Get this stuff, and wet your brush, and then brush it back and forth on the surface of the soap and rinse. Repeat 2-3 times with warm water and your brush should be super soft and restored to its original lustre:

u/tiny_markatas · 2 pointsr/minipainting

You linked to series 7 "miniature", it's got shorter bristles. It's something of a preference thing whether you prefer "mini" or regular length, but if I was making a blanket recommendation I'd say go for plain series 7 (no miniature). Here's a link for #4 regular (I'd go for #3 myself, or even #2 if price is bugging you, but again, matter of preference):

Amazon Link

Benefits of longer bristles is the brush can hold more water/paint. Lets you store more paint in the brush and keep it in working condition longer.

Word of warning, there's a decent chance it'll take you a brush or two before you learn how to properly treat one. Maybe don't start painting with a fancy brush right away. Or do, just keep brush care in mind.

edit: do shop around. I'm not advocating Amazon as the place to buy your brushes, but since you linked there first I thought I might as well too.

u/Ezili · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

For sure, you could get a 00 or 0000 sable brush. I use Winsor and Newton which is about $13 instead of $20 and frankly much better quality than the basic GW brushes, but really any small brush will do. Sable is a great material for model painting, but really you could get something cheaper if you aren't picky. Just go to your local art store and find a small watercolor brush.

u/Vexinator · 2 pointsr/minipainting

If you are Canadian, a UK company called "The Society for All Artists (UK)" is selling a few W&N Series 7 Kolinskies on for even less right now. I actually was looking at both sites earlier today and bought a size 1 and size 0 from amazon.

The size 0 is from the miniature line, the size 1 is from the normal watercolor line. $11.50 and $17.09 respectively. With free shipping and exchange rate factored in, this was a better deal.

u/SublimeShadow · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

To be honest good brushes are kinda expensive. This brand and range is referred to quite often by people who have been painting a while and as someone who owns one, you get what you pay for. While you can find cheaper brushes, they'll fall apart, lose their point, and by the time you've replaced them a couple of times you've actually spent more money.

u/sergeant_canoodle · 2 pointsr/MakeupAddiction

I use the ELF angled eyeliner brush for the wing, a flat art brush like this one (except I got mine from Michaels oops) to tightline, and a very thin acrylic brush like this one to get into those pesky inner corners without getting too thick. It's also very useful to get sharp-as-shit wings. I use ELF's cream eyeliner, and I haven't found a brush that does what all three do.

u/redpiano · 2 pointsr/minipainting

If price isn't a factor I would recommend picking up either the Scale75 complete collection or the Vallejo Model Color suitcase.

Scale Color Collection

Vallejo Model Color

If you buy from Fantization, just FYI email them first and ask if it'll get to you by Christmas.

Also, pick her up a Winsor & Newton Series 7 #1 and #2/0

u/Probably_Not_Evil · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

I recently purchased this set. da Vinci Watercolor Series 5500 Maestro Paint Brush Set, Round Kolinsky Red Sable with Gift Box, Multiple Sizes, 3 Brushes (Series 10)

I've been very happy with it. Many people compare the Da Vinci 5500 series with series 7 in terms of quality. But amazon isn't a great place to find decent premium brush deals. I've found it kinda confusing. Look on at the Kolinsky brushes and they even have a bit of a tutorial on the differences between the different types of hair.

u/H-H-H-H-H-H · 1 pointr/onebag

I like to carry these:

Winsor & Newton Cotman Water Colour Sketchers Pocket Box

Refilled with some extra favorite colors.

da Vinci Travel Series 1503 Maestro Watercolor Brush, Round Kolinsky Red Sable with Pocket Case Handle, Size 4

CANSON Montval Watercolor Postcards 140lbs 4"x6", Silky Surface

Generals G314 Draughting Pencil 2/Pk

An old film canister for water in which I store a chunk of real sponge.

They all pack up into a zippered pouch.

The watercolor block postcards are key since I mail them to friends and family and home.

u/thvbh · 1 pointr/minipainting
u/w0ut · 1 pointr/Watercolor

The number 12 mop brush is a fairly small mop brush. Depending on what paper size you intend to work on you might want a bit bigger. Personally I use number 18 mostly, and I have a number 14 as well (from the Joseph Zbukvic set). I'd probably start with a size 14, and if too small she can buy size 18 later.

Size 12:

Size 14:

Also, never leave brushes resting in a bucket of water, just lay them on the table when not in use. And after use, rinse with water, squeeze out water or gently squeeze out water with towel, and then I always hang them up side down to dry on a laundry rack. The quickest way to destroy a brush is for the wood to rot and the brush part will break off.

u/hivemind_MVGC · 1 pointr/minipainting

If you decide you don't want to spring for super-expensive sable brushes, you could do a lot worse than these:

u/K-Seki · 1 pointr/minipainting

Watch this video, I found this extremely helpful.
I recently got some da Vinci brushes and they are pretty awesome: da Vinci Brushes 3 Brush Gift Set

u/Symbaler · 1 pointr/minipainting

Whoa. Those brushes are expensive indeed. Seems they are watercolor brushes? Isthis the correct one you recommend?

u/erichagz12 · 1 pointr/SWlegion

Winsor & Newton Series 7 Kolinsky Sable Miniature Watercolor Brush - Short Handle Round #3

I use a 4 for everything. I started with 0 and 00, but I use a retarder so it keeps the paint from drying in the brush. I can paint a lot quicker with more paint in the brush and I can even get the very fine points with the 4.

Edit: this was done with airbrush base black, #4 series 7, and a dry brush:

Edit: Also cleaning is important, here is a thread on that :

u/Arimer · 1 pointr/boardgames
u/Main-Vein · 1 pointr/Tau40K

Try a wet palette so your paint doesn't start to gum up. And try a larger brush (it holds more moisture so the paint on tip doesn't dry as quick)

I personally bought a wet palette on amazon and a winsor & newton series 7 size 3 brush and it's really helped smooth my paint out. The clumps are coming from paint drying.

People who say "expensive" brushes aren't worth it and that you should be Michelangelo before buying anything nice are pretentious.

u/Dsonger73 · 1 pointr/minipainting

Yes, I used brush cleaner. I was even able to restore some old red citadel brushes with the soap. So, I’m going to place the blame on the quality of army painter brushes being sub standard.

u/pyromaster55 · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

As a beginner you really should be fine just with an 0 until you get some big tanks etc, but if you have money burning a hole in your pocket go with an 1, 0, and 00. that will last you a while and they are very nice brushes. Dry brushing can be done with pretty much any cheap, small, flat brush from a local art store (if you have a joanns nearby you can often get stuff for 50% off with coupons.)

Once you really start to get into lots of bigger models

u/c0horst · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

You're probably going to waste more paint using a wet palette honestly. The main benefit though is that you're able to water down your paints, so you get them thin enough that the final coat looks super smooth. You'll have to do 2-3 coats of paint to get a solid finish on the model.. each coat needs to be very thin.

As for brushes, this has been my go-to for a detail brush. Make sure to keep it clean, don't use it to mix paints or anything like that. You want to try to prevent paint from getting into the metal part of the brush, or it can get ruined. Been using it for 2 months now, still holds a very nice tip.

u/SellusGravius · 1 pointr/minipainting

That's the normal series 7, not the miniature one. "Correct" depends what you're after really, as was pointed out in this thread, the normal ones are apparently what mini painters prefer.

This is the miniature one:

u/StompyJones · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

Series 7 breaks down into regular brushes and Miniature brushes. Miniature ones will say 'Miniature' on it and they're all far fatter shaped than regular watercolour ones.

See miniature versus non-miniature

u/BaronVonMilk · 1 pointr/Warhammer

I've been strongly recommended to pick up a couple of Windsor and Newton Series 7 brushes to start painting with instead of the Citadel Brushes. I'm looking at them on amazon, and there's two different kinds: Series 7 Miniature and Series 7 Watercolour. I can guess from the name which version I need, but I just wanted to check before purchasing them.



u/batduq · 1 pointr/minipainting

I got the shelves here.

For Christmas, may I suggest a set of Winsor & Newton Series 7 brushes? It's hard to suggest without knowing what she already has/wants/needs.

u/Aminence · -1 pointsr/pics

Why are you using such crappy brushes?! Get some kolinsky sable-hair brushes. I've used my brushes every day for a year and tips look better than that. I mean, you did super great with what you got but it will make your experience much more pleasurable.