Best router its according to redditors

We found 317 Reddit comments discussing the best router its. We ranked the 195 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Subcategories:

Router bearings & bit-repair parts
Router door & window bits
Edge treatment & grooving router bits
Joinery router bits
Solid surface router bits
Straight, spiral & trim bits

Top Reddit comments about Router Bits:

u/JavaMoose · 32 pointsr/DIY

Take a piece of MDF, cut a circle in it with a hole-saw or a jig-saw. Use this type of bit in the router. The bearing follows your template.

u/erichkeane · 17 pointsr/woodworking

I LOVE the Bosch 1617 kit. Lowes occassionally has it on sale for $189. There are a few others in that price range that are also worth it I believe.

Some Router tips:
1- NEVER buy a cheap one. An underpowered router, or one that isn't made true will ruin your project. As tempting as a $30 HF router is, all it will do is trash your work.
2- Get one where the fixed base has an adjustment from below the router. This will more easily allow you to make it into a router table down the line.
3- Get something that does a 1/2" shank. 1/4" shank bits ARE available for a lot of things, but you'll break them (and thus whatever they shoot off into, such as projects, tools, body parts) way more often.
4- Get A LOT of clamps. Don't rout anything where you're taking off a lot of material (such as a dado/rabbet) without it being VERY well clamped down. Err on the side of caution, routers can kick back light things really easily
5- This set of bits here: https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8377-15-Piece-Router-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000FJRN8S is a good starting place. When you find yourself using one of those bits A LOT, invest in a Freud/Rockler/etc bit.

u/nakedpickle · 11 pointsr/woodworking

I bought this guy


And it rules, all day long.

u/constantino1 · 10 pointsr/woodworking

definitely not that. Bosch bits arent even that good, and that price is astronomical. I think that seller is offering it well over retail if I had to guess.

Get 1/2" shanks whenever possible.

I started with this set

http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8377-15-Piece-Router-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000FJRN8S/ref=sr_1_3?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1465239946&sr=1-3&keywords=router+bit+set

Its decent, it covers most of the bases without being wasteful with stuff you'll never use.

I have added to my collection with frued bits when I find that I use it alot, roundover, flush trim, straight bits mostly. And then some others that werent in the set.

u/thirstyinvestor · 10 pointsr/woodworking

Router sled.

Mine is very similar to this one, though you should probably start smaller to fit the sizes you would commonly work on.

You'll need a full size router and a wide flat bottom bit (I have this one). Wider bits for larger pieces to save time.

u/darkehawk14 · 5 pointsr/woodworking

What kind of router did you get? And what is the collett size?

I bought this set from amazon and love it. It's got the basics you will need for starting out. And, as /u/snuffvieh said, get specialty bits as you need them. But get the quality ones, then.

As for a router table, I had a cabinet I made and put a router table top, Number 6 plan on this list on top of it. I took the drawer out of the top of the cabinet and put in a tip out. Not the best of plans, because shavings get caught in there really fast.

u/TheAmazingAaron · 4 pointsr/woodworking

This bit was recommended in another 'planer jig' thread. I don't own it personally.

Magnate 2705 surface planing bit

u/AndyInAtlanta · 4 pointsr/woodworking

http://www.amazon.com/Trademark-Stalwart-Multi-Purpose-24-Piece-Router/dp/B000X47YDE

Most recommended reviews say they are cheap and possibly dangerous.

u/Hapuman · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Yes, that's what that description means. I wouldn't get that router bit though. What you want is a top-bearing pattern bit. [Something like this, though it doesn't have to be this exact one.] (http://www.amazon.com/Dia-Top-Bearing-Flush-Trim/dp/B0000225XQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457217370&sr=8-1&keywords=router+pattern+bit+top+bearing) As far a brands, I like Whiteside, Amana, or Freud. It's fine to go with something cheaper, you'll just get less life out of the cutters.

You need to make yourself a template the exact size of your mortise and plunge in with the router. The template will look roughly like this. The cleat on the bottom of the template in that image is not strictly necessary; it's fine to just clamp your template to your work piece. Any scrap piece of plywood is fine for a template. MDF works well too, but is softer, so I wouldn't recommend it if you want to use this template a whole bunch of times. It can also be a good idea to make two templates - that way if you mess up and run your router into the edge (which can be pretty easy to do), you have a back up.

I've been trying to find a video of someone doing this, but all i'm seeing are people doing things that are way over-complicated. If you're interested in proceeding like this and you want more help feel free to message me with questions. Good luck!

u/jamesshuang · 3 pointsr/hobbycnc

Another point of reference -- I'm assuming you're using the standard 1.5kw/2.2kw spindle. I've been doing 0.9mm DOC, 1000mm/min at 12000rpm using single-flute 12mm CEL cutters in 6061. The shorter flute length is key -- I went through a pack of 17mm CEL cutters on one part, but then cut almost 10 pieces with slightly more aggressive settings using the shorter tools.

Another very important thing is to evacuate the chips in deep slots. I was mostly doing 1/4" aluminum, and I ended up using an air compressor pointed at the cut to blow out the chips reliably at the bottom. I had to use a ton of WD40 to flush out the chips, which is not economical. Standard isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) actually worked just as well, if not better since the evaporation carries away more heat.

Another thing I've been meaning to try is trochoidal milling for cutting out aluminum plates like that. Should save a lot on tool life.

One last hint I forgot -- you need a VERY STIFF machine to go this aggressively! On my little X-carve clone, the best settings I got was 0.25mm DOC, 800mm/min, 20krpm. The "chips" were basically just aluminum dust. The new machine I'm using is an old retrofitted CNC router with linear rails and servos, and actually cuts nice solid chips at these settings.

u/metarinka · 3 pointsr/manufacturing

It's just a set of bits for a router, not particularly rare, fancy or expensive. New set would be 40-100 my guess http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FJRN8S/ref=s9_top_hd_bw_bD4kJ_g469_i3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-4&pf_rd_r=0854NJ7BABDQGVB3ZS0H&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=e3873ec3-2071-56f1-b304-96ab142fe7ba&pf_rd_i=3116511 put them on craigslist or ebay and I'm sure some woodworker will pick them up.

u/caddis789 · 3 pointsr/woodworking

It depends on the router bit you have, and where the bearing is: top or bottom, there are also some that have a bearing in both places. Beyond that, it depends on the direction of the grain on what you're cutting. A lot of times, you'll want to cut it one way on one side, then flip it over on the other, to reduce tear out.

u/rognvaldr · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Yeah, I second this advice. I used this bit with good results the last time I used a router sled. With a 1-3/4" cut, it's about 7-8 passes per foot depending on how much overlap each pass.

u/VerticalMonster · 3 pointsr/woodworking

These keep popping up as recommended bits. I got a set, but haven't used them much. Seem fine and a decent price for a decent selection.

u/zodoor · 3 pointsr/woodworking

I use this bit , it's nice and wide and won't break the bank so if you are roughing down some "less than clean" lumber and get a nick in a tooth it won't leave you crying.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/828680/freud-16108-mortising-router-bit-12-sh-114-d-12-cl.aspx

this one is wider but I have to use a custom base I made with a wider opening.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006B0QXE/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944579842&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0006B0PX0&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1EFKC8R24CGDR82TCZ4X

u/Birdman3000 · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Kudos on diving into a huge project. You're going to learn a ton.

  1. Router sled is a great option. Watch LOTS of videos. If you don't have a bench or table big enough to set up a router sled, you can do it on the floor just fine, as long as your floor is flat. Here is an example of the type of router bit you'll need. Go slow and make shallow cuts - trust me on this one. And be sure that with a slab this big, it's not rocking at all when lying on a flat surface (you may have to use shims or the like when setting it up). If it's got any twist to it then it may rock, and you won't get a flat surface when planing it.

  2. Wood filler and epoxy will both work, as will very fine sawdust mixed with wood glue.

  3. Yep, take it off. I've done this once, so I'm not exactly expert, but I took the bark with a chisel (be careful not to gouge the wood) then sanded the edges with sanding drill bits. Worked for me.

  4. There are as many opinions about finishing as there are woodworkers on this sub. I recommend you take the top 4 or 5 suggestions you get on here and try them all on the underside of the slab. See which one you like the best and go with it. If it were me, I'd seal with shellac first (maple gets blotchy so sealing first is a good idea) then finish with a wiping oil-based poly, doing a ton of coats. Personally, I thin [this stuff] (http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/251617123224?lpid=82) with paint thinner (about 50/50) because the dude who owns my lumber yard recommended it and it's worked great for me, but please do your own research.

  5. No nails. They are shitty fasteners. Screws are great, but you need to account for wood movement when you decide how to attach your slab to the base that you build. That's too long a discussion for here - please do yourself a favor and read up online about wood movement. You'll pretty quickly figure out your different options. Here are some examples of discussions on topic.

    Good luck!!!
u/MDDDIY · 3 pointsr/woodworking

The challenge for buying something for someone that likes woodworking is that you don't know what kind of tools they want/need. Not to mention tools tend to be quite a bit more expensive than the price point you mentioned.

You could consider purchasing them something that will come in handy, if not immediately so. Router bits, saw blades, drill bits, or wood project packs are all something that would see mileage.

Here's a couple ideas from browsing Amazon.

Rosewood Cutting Guage

[Crown Marking Knife] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001V9KOTQ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1XH9ERR8QY3ND&coliid=ILFECPNG7H6C1)

[Router Radi Guide] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040BNLRO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1XH9ERR8QY3ND&coliid=I1EHDP8Y8SGNEO)

[A Flush Trim Bit for Patterns] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000225XQ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1XH9ERR8QY3ND&coliid=I1TEA98C23FQ2D&psc=1)


Edit: I should point out that not everyone may agree with this list. This is just stuff that, in my experience, is either a Quality of Life type item or something that people have to buy as bits tend to wear out, etc.

u/Weyoun2 · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Buy a cheap multi-bit set, like this one to get you started. As you work on projects over time, you'll discover which bits you use and which you don't. As you break/dull bits from use, you'll know which are the important bits and can replace them with better quality individual bits. Also, you'll discover that bits come in 1/4 and 1/2 shanks, so you'll need/want to purchase (if you don't already have one) a collet for the correct size bits.

u/hitTheGong · 3 pointsr/woodworking

I've ordered this bit based on the recomendation of some people on this subreddit: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006B0QX4/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_3p_M3T1_ST1_dp_1

There's also a 2.75" but that just sounds kind scary (http://www.amazon.com/Magnate-Surface-Planing-Bottom-Cleaning/dp/B0006B0QXO/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y)

u/macs3n · 3 pointsr/DIY

I used a 1 3/4 flat bit and took off between 1/8 and 1/4 per pass, sometimes more in particularly high spots. The slab started out very wavy!

Next time I would use longer rails, both for the sled to ride on and for the sled itself, I kept having to move the slab and rails around to get at different areas and it was a pain.

u/manutdusa · 3 pointsr/woodworking

I got this cheap set first (on sale for $30 now).
I'll purchase the more expensive Whiteside ones once I'm comfortable with routing.

u/joelav · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Assuming you are starting from the ground up and need everything, it's going to be tight and you'll have to skimp in some places, but this is exactly what I would do. The grand total here is $5005.00 and that includes shipping on the big ticket items which is a few hundred dollars.

Table saw and related stuff:

[Grizzly G0715xp] (http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Hybrid-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife-Polar-Bear-Series-/G0715P)

Freud Premier Fusion

[Freud SD208] (http://www.amazon.com/Freud-SD208-8-Inch-Professional-Dado/dp/B0000223O9/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395407011&sr=8-1&keywords=freud+sd208)

Gr Ripper 3d advanced (awesome on the router table too

Make your own ZCI's

Table Saw Total - $1,142

Jointer

Grizzly G0654 6" jointer (sell this on craigslist when you can upgrade to the 8". They hold their value really well and sell fast)

Jointer total $534.00

Planer

Dewalt DW734 - $399.99 most places. The 735 is nice, but not that much nicer. If I were to upgrade beyond the 734, I'd go for a 15" stationary unit.

Miter saw

Definitely go craigslist on this one. These things are a dime a dozen there. You can get a sliding 12" Dewalt/Makita/Ridgid, etc for around 250.00 to 300.00 Also pick up a decent Irwin Marples or Diablo blade

SCMS total - ~320.00

Bandsaw:

Craftsman BAS350. I own this. It's the SAME EXACT saw as the Rikon 10-321, just 200.00 cheaper. 8" resaw capacity and no stupid riser blocks to fuck up the geometry of your saw and make tensioning a nightmare.

Bandsaw Total - 620.00 with the Rikon resaw fence (bolt on) and a few timberwolf blades

Harbor Freight 2hp Dust collector, a lot of hoses, blast gates, and material to mod it to a 2 stage cyclone - 400.00

Router(s)

Bosch 1617 with both plunge and fixed bases

MLCS 15 bit set. Not the best, but better than absolutely anything else in this price range. Replace bits with Whiteside or Amanna when you have the cash.

Router and bits total 200.00

Also make your own table and fence to fill the empty space in your table saw.

Sanding

{Milwaukee 6021-21 Random Orbit Sander. Best ROS on the market until you go Festool/Ceros

Some klingspor abrasives in different grits

Shop vac bucket max and a 5gal bucket - perfect for sanders

Ridgid oscilating spindle sander. This is a tool I could definitely not live without after owning.

Sanding total - $320.00

Drill Press

Porter cable floor press

Also get the Porter Cable Forstner bit set and some decent brad points/twists)

Drill Press/bits total - ~$420.00

Clamps

Jorgensen Cabinet Master 4pc Set and various other bar clamps. The Pittsburgh ones from HF are pretty good

Clamps total ~ $250.00

Misc stuff

Woodriver bench chisels.

A vintage stanley block plane, and a jack plane

some plywood/melamine, and cheap hardwood and hardware to make a cross cut sled, router table/fence. drill press table, a workable bench/outfeed table and a grizzly woodworking end vise

Misc total - ~400.00


u/troyproffitt · 3 pointsr/hobbycnc

THESE are my most used bits...I use them to cut aluminum and MDF all day long. They're cheap, but stay sharp for longer than you'd expect

I use THESE for engraving...and yes, I use them in aluminum as well

For Vcarving, I use THIS I've probably ordered 3 of these in a 1 year time span but cut A LOT of MDF with it

​

In the beginning, don't buy expensive bits....it's a waste of $$$ until you get your feedrate and DOC figured out. I also highly recommend you download the millrightCNC app for your phone or tablet to figure out your feedrate / RPM / Depth of Cut / Chiploads.

u/FieldAce · 2 pointsr/woodworking

You can use a larger bit and just take off less with each pass. Personallyy with flattening a workbench I'd rather be on the side of larger bit, less depth at one time. Here's a decent 1 3/4" flat bottom
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T7CZ

u/elcapitanshovel · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I am current doing a good amount of slab flattening with a different set up with ho hum results. Is this the kind of bit you use? http://www.amazon.com/CMT-851-502-11B-Bearing-Diameter-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000P4O5ZC

u/TwoManyPuppies · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I have used this Yonico 1.5" bit for cutting boards with great success

http://amzn.com/B00KZM20GU

u/Starving_Poet · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Bottom cleaning bits are literally made just for this: http://www.amazon.com/Magnate-Surface-Planing-Bottom-Cleaning/dp/B0006B0QXO

u/llama111 · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I bought this set ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KZM2Z6A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1425627797&sr=8-1&keywords=yonico&pi=AC_SX200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=51nZHmFaV9L&ref=plSrch ) and have been very happy with them so far. I did a lot of research before deciding on these and am glad that I went with such a large set. The set gives you the ability to experiment with a lot of bits and figure out what you like. As others will say you can always find the ones you use most often and upgrade those to the more expensive brands. This set is great to start with if you're like me and buying bits and experimenting with a router for the first time like I was. I can't tell you how many times I've wanted to try new things and hoped that I would have the bit I needed and found out that I did.

u/IlliniBone · 2 pointsr/woodworking

new Drill press - Craftsman 12" $189

used table saw - Ridgid $250 http://denver.craigslist.org/tls/5299905704.html

new Dewalt miter saw 12" home depot $279

(2) new Sears plunge router 2.5 hp #27860 $130 each $260

used band saw http://denver.craigslist.org/tls/5306628654.html $150

new Milwaukee sawzall/drill kit http://www.homedepot.com/p/M12-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-3-8-in-Cordless-Drill-Driver-Hackzall-Combo-Kit/206284103 $99

(2) Dewalt orbital sander http://www.sears.com/dewalt-5-in-random-orbit-sander-kit-with/p-00926349000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1 $50 each $100

new kreg pocket hole kit $99

used Delta jointer $225 http://denver.craigslist.org/tls/5262033510.html

(4) new pipe clamp fixtures $11 each plus $25 for the pipe $70

(2) new Irwin clamp sets $33 each $66 http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=quick+clamp+12%22&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aquick+clamp+12%22

new 15 piece router bit set $45 http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8377-15-Piece-Router-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000FJRN8S/ref=sr_1_4?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1448998111&sr=1-4&keywords=router+bit+set

new jig saw $60 http://www.sears.com/porter-cable-pce345-6.0-amp-orbital-jig-saw/p-SPM7634045028?prdNo=7&blockNo=7&blockType=G7


That should put me around $1800 - the rest would be spent on sandpaper, blades, screws, work bench etc.

u/Logosmonkey · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Any decent bottom cleaning router bit. I use [this one](Yonico 14976 1-1/2-Inch Diameter Bottom Cleaning Router Bit 1/2-Inch Shank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KZM20GU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vikVCb82PFRBK) most of the time.

u/tmprof · 2 pointsr/hobbycnc

Step 1. Download MillrightCNC app on your phone / tablet

Step 2. Purchase these bits on Amazon for dirt cheap : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010NI39WO/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Step 3. Make sure you use T6061 aluminum (it is easier to mill)

Step 4. Use lubricant while it's cutting so the aluminum doesn't melt to the bit! (I use WD40)

Here are the settings I used in the vid:

Feedrate: 770mm/min

Depth of Cut: .6mm

Spindle RPM: 17k

​

Here is a pic of the final result of what I was cutting:

https://imgur.com/kLv9LfZ

u/wolv · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Gotcha--regarding the router sled setup--if you're unhappy with the finish, try using a bowl bit. I've got one of these monstrosities, and the rounded corners seem to make tearout less of a possibility, although I'm generally not using mine for end grain . I DO, however, use it for guitar bodies, and I'm generally fairly picky about marring the surface, since my router is used for final thicknessing.

u/KidA001 · 2 pointsr/TeardropTrailers

Gladly. I bought 1"x4"x8' clear-heart redwood boards. I also borrowed a router and router bench and bought a [tongue and groove set] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZM2AIS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and ran all of my boards through the router. You can definitely buy wood already tongue and grooved which is a lot easier, but I was really specific about the wood I wanted to use so I had to do it myself. If you're going to do it yourself and haven't done it before, definitely test it out on some throwaway wood to practice before you start cutting into your stock.

Once they were all t&g'd I started mounting them against the plywood walls and they just stack on top of each other. I cleaned off all the wood sticking out past the walls with a router template bit. I used Lexel to seal the edges between the redwood siding and the plywood, then cut some 1/8" plywood as trim to cover the gap, you can see me clamping the trim on here. I also had to cut out my doors/windows, etc.

For the outer roof and hatch, I used 1/8in Marine grade plywood. It's super durable, and bent easily over the frame. For the inner roof I used 1/8in maple plywood, and in-between both those layers I filled it with insulation. You can kinda see the process here.

I finished the siding and redwood with Waterlox Sealer & Finish. It's a tung oil sealer, and the finish is marine spar varnish that protects against water, UV...etc. The best part is if it ever needs a new coat you don't need to sand, you just add on a new layer and it kinda 'burns' in.

As for cost....I'm not sure, I stopped keeping track :P - Redwood can get expensive, but I really liked it so I splurged. You can get just as beautiful a finish with pine, which is much easier to find already tongue and grooved. Pine is great as long as you seal it.

Here's some photos of the process and the finish. Please let me know what other questions you have!

u/gospursgo99 · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I just bought a giant round bit for use on a cutting board. Do you think this would work?? https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T7DQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/CalebDK · 2 pointsr/woodworking
u/MagillaGorillasHat · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I purchased the smaller version of this. It does a solid job of flattening. Also makes a good rabbet.

u/AlliedMasterComp · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I want to say you should buy good quality bits as you need them. However, if this is your first router, you likely don't know what bits you need.

Buy a cheap set, replace the ones you burn through with higher quality freud, lee valley, or eagle america bits.

For $140 you can get a much larger Yonico set. The quality is "decent".

u/TheKillingVoid · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I've discovered that for carbide spirals, Whiteside are now as inexpensive as MLCS.

u/chewychubacca · 2 pointsr/woodworking

The problem that i see with forstner bits is that they have a point in the center, which will create a little hole below each spot where you plunge the forstner. That's why I suggested using a flat-bottomed router bit in your drill.

Something like this maybe: https://www.amazon.com/Whiteside-Router-Bits-RU2100-Standard/dp/B000K2BGNS

u/kevinalease · 2 pointsr/hobbycnc

Cuttable area
Btw I am using the dual endstops I think that is critical for what I am doing
It makes it much easier to split up jobs or change a bit etc
HQMaster CNC Router Bits, 10 Pack... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F35WQYG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
These are the bits I used so far
They measure 3mm with my calipers

u/jeffrois · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I've had luck with shallow passes using a dish bit. Not my idea, some redditor who will get no credit who probably got the suggestion from someone else. The radius means little to no chipping/tear out (so I'm told and so I've experienced). I use a 1/4" radius, 1 1/4" diameter dish bit. Works great with end grain. https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Radius-Carving-Shank-99-026/dp/B00004T7M5

u/makes_things · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I bought this MLCS set off Amazon as my starter set:

https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8377-15-Piece-Router-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000FJRN8S/

It's been fine - I'm now buying better quality bits when I know I need something and I've replaced a couple of these with nicer versions, but for a basic set this has been a good value for me.

u/stjost · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Just got stuck in the workpiece—I cut waaay too deep. This is the set, if you're interested: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KSOOLI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UMYhzbHH2WF4G

There seems to be a bigger set on Amazon for $30 now, though.

u/mikeber55 · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I use two bits: a 2” from Infinity and 1.75” made by Freud:

Freud 1-3/4" (Dia.) Double Flute Straight Bit with 1/2" Shank (12-194) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7CZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_o753BbSQZB01S

u/Skyrmir · 1 pointr/woodworking

This on the inside and this on the outside. Round over 1 long board and then cut it into 4 pieces.

u/roostermathis · 1 pointr/woodworking

MLCS 8377 15-Piece Router Bit Set with Carbide-Tipped 1/2-Inch Shanks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FJRN8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Wr2SybQJ8VEMY

I saw this set recommend in this sub. I have the same router as you and I've been happy with them.

u/NoSheDidntSayThat · 1 pointr/DIY
  1. buy a half in router, the 1/4" ones are mostly useless. Check craigslist

  2. buy this set of router bits, I don't think there's a better deal out there

  3. feed left to right, as you face the edge you're cutting

    It's not hard. I use a Makita RD1101 bought used, which I like because the grip allows me to keep pressure on top the the piece I'm cutting.
u/bulletproof_tiger · 1 pointr/DIY

I ordered these straight bits lastnight as they were cheap and the reviews are decent. At $20 I'm not going to be too upset if they end up being garbage, but at least I'll have something to practice on and get familiar with the router. I have this bit in my cart for order later today- this is the bit I'll actually need for the project I posted about. Is this one decent for the price? Mind you, as of now I won't be using these a bunch so I don't think I really need contractor quality bits that would see daily wear as it's not really in the budget currently.

http://www.amazon.com/Dia-Top-Bearing-Flush-Trim/dp/B0000225XQ?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

u/aimless_ly · 1 pointr/DIY

Are you using a proper surfacing bit in the router? It makes a huge difference in this application. Here's a cheap one that I can't vouch for, Magnate 2705 Surface Planing ( Bottom Cleaning ) Router Bit - 1-1/2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006B0QX4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eot.zbAEX7S4E

u/hoyfkd · 1 pointr/woodworking

If it is his first router, I would recommend getting the DeWalt 611PK kit. It is a compact router, but it is pretty powerful for its size. I bought the Bosch recommended in another comment as my first router, and looking back, I wish I had purchased the DeWalt first. I find myself using the smaller router far more than the bigger one. Plus, the entire kit is around $160, so you have plenty of money to get a MCLS bit set and still be way under budget.

Just my 2 cents.

u/ReconWaffles · 1 pointr/Amd

I wouldn't have even tried using a ball end mill. They do give really interesting machining artifacts though. Have you tried something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Autek-Titanium-Carbide-Engraving-J3-3001Tix10/dp/B00HC98K2C

That's the style of engraving bit I usually use, though it's not often.

u/stupac2 · 1 pointr/bayarea

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001S2RAWA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can see the bits in the secondary images, the one I used was the first on the left in the second picture. If you zoom way in here you can sorta see how it came out: https://i.imgur.com/XNPFuOW.jpg

I think I have that same router, the key I've found is to just practice the hell out of whatever you're doing on scrap before you actually do anything. I'm sure the 1/4" is slower than a hypothetical 1/2" would be, but it's always given me good results.

u/irishtayto · 1 pointr/woodworking

Needing quick advice on carbide bits, buying today

Which one(s) would you buy and a very brief explanation to why?


This is what I'm looking at:

Amazon:

Hiltex 10100 Tungsten Carbide Router Bits

CARBIDE ROUTER BIT SET - 35 piece 1/4 shank NEW BITS by EDMBG

Router Bit Set- 24 Piece Kit with ¼” Shank and Wood Storage Case By Stalwart (Woodworking Tools for Home Improvement and DIY)

Sears:

Craftsman 30 pc. Router Bit Set

Harbor Freight:

Carbide Tip Router Bit Set 12 Pc

Carbide Tip Woodworking Router Bit Set Pc

Note: I'm intentionally NOT wanting a $120+ starter kit, that's by design. I'm also having to budget for carving tips which are gonna cost about $25 each, if you have a favorite brand you use, let me know - I'm willing to go ahead and splurge a bit more on these bits as I tend on using them far more.


u/zerocrack · 1 pointr/woodworking

I think so too. I got a router bit kit and they seem to be cheaply made. I bought spiral cut up bit from Amazon. Hopefully that'll fix the problem. how should I dial my speed for this bit?

u/_Boz_ · 1 pointr/woodworking

I primarily use 1/4 & 1/2" roundover bits to smooth over the edges of our cutting boards. I also have:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T7M5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (for putting handles on the bottom of the board)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T7DM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (for juice trays)

And this bit for mortises based on the Wood Whisperer's method of creating them:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T7K1/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/MW_Daught · 1 pointr/woodworking

I got the 15 piece Hitex set for less than $20. They seem to be working fairly well - haven't sent more than 100 feet of wood through any of them yet though.

I assume I'll mess them up sooner or later as I'm starting out too, but it's a pretty cheap set, so no real loss. I literally had bits come loose and fly off the router before I realized that I needed to really tighten up the collet too ...


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KSOOLI/ref=s9_top_hd_bw_bD4kJ_g469_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-4&pf_rd_r=DXPDQ1W2HBGTWW78PK73&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=7771a85c-b1fb-5864-a037-c5d8ffd938b4&pf_rd_i=3116511

u/arussell0027 · 1 pointr/woodworking

It's a Bosch 1617EVS - 2-1/4HP

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004TKHV/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


The bit is a Yonico 1-1/2"

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZM20GU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It worked well but I did have to remove a lot of material to get it flat and ended up making to passes per side.

u/twentyfourfifty · 1 pointr/woodworking

I used a 1 3/4" Freud straight cut bit. Something like a Whiteside WS1101 would provide 2” of cutting and be slightly more time efficient I suppose. On this slab the result was pretty good, although given the width of the sled and me leaning over it with too much weight at times, some routes were slightly different. Not much though, but I did give it a 60/100/150 grit belt sand before random orbiting. I used the same process on the maple bench you see in some of the photos. With a smaller sled and not having to lean over the work on the garage floor, the maple top came out damn near perfect and required only finish sanding (there were visible lines on the maple but you couldn't really feel them brushing around with your hand).

u/DBordello · 1 pointr/woodworking

They are only $0.59 cheaper on woot than amazon. Probably not worth the "impulse".

Just last night I was deciding on a set of bits. I compared those, to these http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001S2RAWA/ref=pe_385040_127541850_TE_item

The MLCS set got much better reviews. I ended up ordering those, but I cannot speak to their quality either.

u/elbing · 1 pointr/trees

I think they look great! Maybe a relief cut on the underside at each end to make it easier to pick up off a table? Maybe a small cubby that is made to fit a bic lighter? I think these are good as is though.


Did you use a router with a bowl cutting bit? I've been thinking about making rolling trays, ash trays, and maybe a sherlock stand?

This is the thing I'm talking about

http://www.amazon.com/CMT-851-502-11B-Bearing-Diameter-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000P4O5ZC

u/alternateaccounting · 1 pointr/woodworking

Good idea for the spacer. I actually had to make my router sled two sided. One side had rails that were one layer thick, the other had two for the thicker stock. So if the boards were too thick for the side with one layer, i could take it down to that size first.


The sides were supposed to be about .065 to about .080 inches thick i was closer to about .055 to .060 in thick. Thin enough to bow out a bit eventually, even though bending adds structure. This was the first thing I did so I didnt quite have the technique down. I found the key was to take small even measurements, as well as to measure often and since i hot glued the pieces down, i had to remember to take into account the dofference that makes, as well as having to sand/scrape away the striations left by the router. I also found that running the router in line with the plunge handles and in very shallow passes helped minimize this.

The back of mine is about 3mm, and I was shooting for about 2.5 final. The front should have been about 2mm, and that ended up about 2.5 the last I measured, but while finishing i actually stripped all the finish off and scraping a bunch to remove gouge marks so I think i emded up closer to my goal anyway.

Forgive the mixture of units, but my calipers went between the two easily and different sources said different things.


This is the bit I used. I boughr it for this project and I have been more that happy with it. If you do make the uke, be sure to practice on scraps for everything you havent tried before. Using the router, you will want to get a card scrapper, it takes care of the srriations in no time.

u/gtg490g · 1 pointr/woodworking

I've used a similar setup to finish end grain slices and gotten best results from a 1 3/4” Freud straight bit. Shallow passes with the bit's big cutting area leaves a pretty smooth finish. Minimal sanding (think 15 mins with ROS) to get rid of faint lines.

Also, make sure the wood itself isn't moving at all. That can produce gouges.

Freud 1-3/4 In. Diameter by ¾ In. Double Flute Straight Router Bit with ½" Shank (12-194) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7CZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rtZHzbA2T2QG2

u/coletain · 1 pointr/woodworking

I use a cnc spoilboard bit for the replaceable carbide cutters.

Before that I used this bit and it worked well, but sharpening it all the time got annoying. I've also used this bit before and got really good results but it takes a lot longer with the narrower width.

If you have a lower HP router, stay under 1 1/2" diameter.

u/GDE1990 · 1 pointr/woodworking

Update:

Thanks for the suggestion. Seems others have also made this suggestion so I went with this MLCS kit:

https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-6077-Woodworking-Carbide-tipped-15-Piece/dp/B001S2RAWA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1504242971&sr=8-5&keywords=mlcs

u/chillagevillage · 1 pointr/woodworking

You could use a flush trim bit with a bottom bearing, like this one.

u/LittleHelperRobot · 1 pointr/woodworking
u/spikeatcisco · 1 pointr/woodworking

If you buy ANY woodworking tools. I suggest a table saw (duh), a router and a router table. This is also the set I have that I bought to start with. Seems to be working great

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FJRN8S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/sektabox · 1 pointr/woodworking

Well, if they were told the border is not a good idea and yet still went for it, it's their problem.


As for the screw holes - do not use putty. Contrary to promises on product labels putty will never match the wood in the long term, and it won't take the stain the same way the wood will. It will look like shit. Instead do this:

  • remove one screw
  • drill a clean hole 3/8" to 1/2" diameter, about 1/8 to 3/16" deep
  • re-apply the screw
  • glue in a wood plug
  • sand flush


    Repeat for all screws.


    The wood plug would be ideally made of the same cherry you likely still have kicking around. Plug cutters can be had for about $10+ and they are useful. The general idea is that screw-ups or imperfections often look better when they are made to look like a feature rather than and error.
u/MtBik49833 · 1 pointr/woodworking

If you go the sled route you will wants big dish bit to make quick work of flattening the top. Plus the smooth surface is from the dish bit, you won't get the same results from a straight bit. I think this is the bit I used http://www.amazon.com/CMT-851-502-11B-Bearing-Diameter-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000P4O5ZC

u/noneo · 1 pointr/woodworking

I'm struggling with setting up a jib for cutting dados with a router.

I'm using 3/4" ply and want to cut a 3/8" deep dado. I followed this guide and bought this router bit, but it seems way too deep. What bit should I buy to make this work?