(Part 2) Best rv leveling & stabilization products according to redditors

Like bloodypalace said, the heavy chain (it weighs 10+ lbs) is a bit much for most people to carry around and at $120 it's a significant investment as well.

The U-lock can be beat with a car jack. The thief sticks one of these inside and expands the jack until the lock fails like this
...or if it's a cheapy lock the thief just uses a ball point pen.

It resembles a 5th wheel stabilizing bipod without the ground pads on the ends, but I can't see how the jack handle on this would operate if that were the case.

BAL 25030 Deluxe Bipod King Pin Stabilizing Jack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004OI21KQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rRWJAbP2H4TEA

This is the right answer. Front wheel drive will handle snowy conditions just fine. If the roads haven't been cleared, AWD or even a big 4WD isn't going to help you as the roads will be gridlocked with traffic.

Like /u/qwicksilfer says, you can take a few precautions if conditions are bad and you're concerned. Keep the following in your trunk:

• Emergency kit
  
• Small shovel
  
• Flashlight
  
• Bag of sand or a set of traction pads
  
• A couple triangle emergency cones

The concept is pretty simple -- you dig a trench, line it with filter fabric, and fill the bottom couple inches up with gravel. Then you set your pipe in, establishing a 1° slope towards where it exits, and fill it the rest of the way up with gravel. Fold the end of the filter fabric over the top of the gravel trench, and then cover the top with whatever decorative landscaping you like. In my case I made a rock garden over the part of it, and a flagstone path over the other portion. This write-up on WikiHow is a good primer.

Some things to note:

• Some people will tell you to put your pipe in with the perforations facing up. Those people are wrong. Water will fill the gravel trench until it enters the drain pipe through the perforations, and the lower they are the better a job your drain will do of de-watering the soil above it.
  
• You can use corrugated pipe or PVC to build your drain. Each has pros and cons, but the upshot is that corrugated is cheaper, quicker, and easier to install. Some versions even come with a large-diameter filter sock packed full of styrofoam peanuts already wrapping them, so all you have to do is dig your trench and chuck it in. Rigid PVC pipe is harder to install, since you have to dig perfectly straight trenches and cut it to length and attach fittings at every turn. However, it will be easier to set a slope with it, it will last longer (smooth pipe walls mean that sediment can't find an easy niche to collect in) and if it does clog, you can snake it clean without it getting shredded like corrugated would.
  
• Setting the pipe at a slope is important for longevity of the system. You can install it flat, but it will silt up faster if you do. It's also something you can't really eyeball, and traditional methods for setting a slope are a PITA. I rigged up a cheap and simple method to ensure I was getting the right slope by purchasing one of these trailer leveling gauges and attached it to my level in order to get a precise slope measurement.
  
• If you're using PVC, be sure to include a cleanout somewhere so you can maintain and repair the system. Depending on how you build it (corrugated vs. PVC, slope, filter fabric installation) the drain can last from 10 to 30 years before it silts up and stops working, but with a cleanout you can extend that lifespan further.
  
• Sketch out the routing for your drain and use your measurements to figure out how much material you'll need. If the drain close to your foundation, you can also measure the amount of grade change you have to work with by measuring from the ground to the top of your foundation or the first course of siding. On a flat lot, you may not be able to get 1° of slope all the way through.
  
• You're going to need a lot of gravel. If you're hand-digging the trench, figure that it's going to end up about a foot wide. That means that for every foot of depth, you need two 50-lb bags per foot of length. I ended up putting about 2000 lbs of gravel in mine, and that was before I added the rock garden on top. If you have a truck, you can save some money here by buying in bulk from a landscape supply house rather than in bags.
  
• You're also going to have a lot of extra dirt afterwards. If you need to regrade around the house to establish positive drainage, now is the time. If you don't have a place to put fill dirt, you'll need to have it hauled away. In my case, my neighbor needed all the fill I could give him for his own landscaping projects, so I didn't have to worry about it.

I was just at walmart and they were selling a plastic version of this for $25...and then I checked Amazon and see them for $13 or $20 depending on distance between wheels... https://www.amazon.com/Camco-44622-Wheel-Stop-Large/dp/B000BUU5Y0

I still understand you can pick up the hardware at Lowes and make your version for $5... just thought I would share this info because I looked at X-Chocks (too expensive) and don't have time to make my own right now.

First item isn't recovery, but it is the number one item I always recommend. I've been in the position to need a fire extinguisher when one wasn't available. Vehicle was a total loss and it was a long walk out of the woods.

https://www.amazon.com/21006287MTL-Kidde-Automotive-Extinguisher-Disposable/dp/B077KGCD6Z/

For recovery gear, there are several nice kits that make a great start.

https://www.amazon.com/Rugged-Ridge-15104-28-000lb-Recovery/dp/B00426HZXS

Then I'd get a trail jack

https://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-2722-Universal-Trail-Jack/dp/B001CF3JFA

Finally, yes, the kinetic ropes are GREAT. But I'd first have a winch as it is much more versatile. Rope:

https://www.amazon.com/Bubba-Rope-176680RDG-Breaking-Strength/dp/B007HYR85W

I jack on the pinch weld, and put the jack stands on the pinch weld also. That's what the manual says.

I highly recommend one of these pinch weld adapters

There are tongue weight scales but they're pricey. If you google it you'll find a number of other ways to measure tw.

https://www.amazon.com/Sherline-LM-1000-Trailer-Tongue/dp/B007REJTGI

DON'T TAKE AN ANIMAL TO VAN DWELL. Seriously, find someone to watch it. It will cause you major problems. What are you going to do with a cat 90% of the time? You can't leave it in the rig on a hot day.

First priority one everything has to be small to tiny. Simplify as much as possible.

Roof box - I like it. Can be a great way to add more storage.

Those setups seem neat but if you can cook at the rear hatch couldn't you cook anywhere? We just have small stadium chairs and cook outside the van on the ground. Like these:
https://kelty.com/lowdown-chair/

I'm using a butane and propane stove right now.
https://www.amazon.com/GS-3400P-Portable-Backpacking-Emergency-Preparedness/dp/B01HQRD8EO
Pretty cheap and good options for fuel. Also fairly compact and well packaged.

We also have a MSR Windburner Stove - good for fast and easy hot drinks. Most expensive fuel you can use though.

For water I find just do crystal geyser 1 gallon jugs are simple, disposable and easy to replace.

A poo kit is critical, for me that includes a folding shovel for digging cat holes when boodocked.
https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-Gorge-Folding-Shovel-22-41578/dp/B000WZCSTO

I like my rig to have an inflator kit and tire chains.

Leveling blocks are worth the space to me. We carry 4 which gives me 3 leveling options.
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-44505-Leveling-Blocks-pack/dp/B00480BWBE

You'll need a dishset and pots. I like vacuum mug for drink ware.

I'm a big fan on dedicated headlamps next to each persons sleep spot.

I like power bricks for cell phone charging.

This because I'm tired of the front of my trailer sliding and cutting the wiring to the lights when it's on my driveway. Plus without it, I have to take my stuff off the trailer to put the trailer on and off the truck.

Hi right back atcha 186394!

Jack screw with extension tubes?

https://www.amazon.com/Starrett-190A-Little-Without-Attachments/dp/B0006J4DH6#feature-bullets-btf

Here's some smaller ones.

https://www.fixtureworks.net/store/pc/Miniature-Jack-Screws-c172.htm

I missed that. Those are are for leveling (im jealous), but what I am thinking of look more like jack stands. Camco 2 Pack 44561 Aluminum Camper Jack-2 Pack, 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000760FX4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ylEzDb3KYR6YA

Mine is mounted on my driver side A pillar, the only noise it makes is whistling in the wind.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AXDWOW0

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GH1PTG

Make your own. First, get some small vial levels... Amazon has these

Chuck a long, dead-straight, rod (or large bit) into your drill. Clamp the drill onto your bench or other stable platform such that you can check for level on the length of the rod/bit with a small level. Once you have the bit level, you can then attach a vial level to the top of the drill. I used a few washers and some hot melt glue to align and set the vial on my drill. It was good enough for what I needed, but it did not hold up for very long. Might work for you.

Edit: Basically, I made my own, more stable version of this

I also noticed that your rear stabilsers do not appear to have sand pads. These help distribute the load better and you don't sink. I would also recommend one for your hitch. Also, in of itself that wood blocking is going to be rocky.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Stabilizing-Base-Pads-Cross-Frame/dp/B0024E6Z9U/

https://www.amazon.com/Pro-1400700340-Footplate-Pin/dp/B005DLLVMW/


But as another stated, I also use the BAL X chocks and really like them. Although.... a little too much side to side motion in the ocean can cause them to work themselves out. There is a fine line between too tight and not tight enough.

https://www.amazon.com/X-Chock-Wheel-Stabilizer-Handle-28012/dp/B002XLHUQG/

https://www.amazon.ca/ATD-Tools-7465-Hydraulic-Positioning/dp/B001AMOJOU

I keep 2 of these in the boot, give them the ol' wheeliedollie