(Part 2) Best rv waste water & sanitation products according to redditors

Get a cap with a hose adapter as part of the cap. When you're ready to dump, position the drain hose under the small cap and remove it carefully. It'll drain the 1/2 cup of disgust in a controlled manner. Once the small amount is drained, removed the big cap. Easy, and relatively clean.

https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T1020-1VP-Waste-Capped-Carded/dp/B0006N5RV8/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=black+dump+cap&qid=1567981139&s=gateway&sr=8-8

I've been living in a 19' Class B van for a bit over a year now. It's perfectly doable. If you're willing to do a little work, you can get quite a good deal on one that size.

If you're going to be stationary, you will need an external propane tank for heat. You'll probably have an onboard propane tank, and I'd fill it for emergencies, but due to the frequency of fills in winter you'll want one you can haul to town while leaving your trailer in place.

For sewer, you can dump right into one of these and either use your parents septic (assuming that's what they're using in the country) or haul it to an RV dump.

Barker (31342) Tote Tank - 30 Gallon Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MA2YLK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9ijUDbVCF14PY

If you have any specific questions about living lite, hit me up.

Actual 3" PVC?

Something like this to reduce it down?
http://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T1041-1-Eccentric-Reducer-Spigot/dp/B002N5T4LG

That's a great idea, I need something like that for my rain barrels.

I bought and modified one of these 50 gallon water tanks that sits in the back of our truck. With a macerator I am able to pump out our tanks in a more or less liquid solution and fill up the tank. Yes, 50 gallons x 8 pounds per gallon is a lot of weight, but not to an unloaded truck. Then we go to the dump station and hook up the standard stinky slinky hose and pull the [valve] (https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T40-Spigot-Valve-Assembly/dp/B00594AZRU/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1487151353&sr=8-12&keywords=valterra+waste+valve) open. After emptying the tank rinse it out and occasionally put some soap in it to keep it somewhat clean. It works.
EDIT: Early morning cannot type....

There are a couple types;

This for example would require no cutting/framing of the camper

This type for example has the cassette remove from the back, so you would need to have a cutout somewhere for it

Edit: Meant to add that you basically remove the 'cassette' which holds the business and take it to any toilet to empty it.

Yeah, the holding tanks can be a bit intimidating. When we bought ours we had a walk through with the sales guy and he should us how to do everything on the trailer however he neglected to tell us that, in addition to our gray water tank we also had a separate galley (kitchen) tank. Well, middle of winter comes and it's 12 degrees outside so I decided to leave all the faucets dripping so we didn't brake a line. Figured this would be OK since I had left the gray water tank open. Since I didn't know about the galley tank (it's open/close handle was in a different location from our gray and black water tanks as well). It flooded. It wasn't a big deal since we were there to catch it and clean it up, but it could have been.

All the information you need for draining your tanks should be in the manual, but our black and gray water tanks handles are in the front storage area of our RV. You will want to invest in a high quality flexible sewer house if you are going to moving around a lot (sound like you are) if you haven't already so you can hook up to park sewer if you stay at a place that offers it. This is the best time and place to empty your black and gray water tanks. The cheap hoses suck and you do not want to be stuck with a leaky sewer house. You will want one that's going to be long enough to reach the sewer connection in the park you are staying in (generally they are right next to the power/water connections). Just locate the sewer outlet on your trailer and figure that most parks will have hook ups a few feet from the back of the trailer slot. Also, pick up one of [these] (http://www.amazon.com/Valterra-D40-4020-Sewer-Buddy-Support/dp/B004RCX42S/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1347910128&sr=1-2&keywords=rv+sewer+hose+support), when you hook up to park sewer you want your sewer hose to drop about an inch to half inch per foot to maintain a nice slope for everything to drain, to shallow a slope and it doesn't drain well, and too steep and the liquid waste will wash out to fast leaving the solid waste behind in the hose. Those sewer hose holders generally give you the right slope on your hose.

Oh, and one thing I just thought of is will need to get a pressure regulator to use when you are hooking up to city/park water. If I remember correctly most trailers water systems are rated to 45 lbs. PSI and if the water source you are using is higher than that you can break stuff. That's about it that I can think off off the top of my head.

I'm sorry if this is long, but

Tarps! If you're going to be in a hot area, you'll quickly find which areas of your RV will heat up the most. If you put tarps in strategic places around the outside of your RV, you can create shade and prevent it from heating up, which means not having to run the AC all the time.

If you can afford it, get a dehumidifier machine and put it in a dedicated spot! I live in a stationary 5th wheel and it gets super humid in here sometimes. If not, they sell these damp rid buckets that you can use for a while before you need to replace 'em--they work pretty well for the most part, but I think a dehumidifier would work best.

You may want to replace the locks on all your storage bay thingies (the ones that open from the outside), those use a stock key most people who own rvs have. To save on propane, you can get a little toaster oven with two burners! or just some standalone hotplates!

Make sure your toilet paper is septic safe (doesn't have to be RV specific! I use Charmin or the walmart version) and that you keep your black water tank

• Partially full of water all the time (like 1/4 the way full) so stuff breaks down properly and you don't get TP clogs
  
• The draining valve never gets left open even if you're permanently hosed into a sewer connection! This causes baaad clogs that are gross and hard to get rid of.
  
• You should use the sewage tank treatment stuff so it doesn't get stinky and everything breaks down properly so you can dump the tank with ease! Definitely get these or something similar in large amounts and probably when you buy your toilet paper. They sell this stuff at Walmart!
  
  Optionaly:
  
• You can replace your bathroom vent so sewage gas doesn't get blown back into your RV in windy conditions. That is not fun!
  
  These kind of tension rods can be used for anything from storing pot and pan lids, to making a little makeshift towel rod in the bathroom or shower.
  
  I recommend finding a good but decently large dish rack to dry dishes on that fits near your sink. I had a hard time finding one that fit so I got two small ones instead! They both sit in both/either sides of my kitchen sink so when I'm done with dishes, they actually don't take up counter space.
  
  Good luck! It's interesting to live in a 5th wheel for sure!

https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-301097202-Portable-Toilet-Gallon/dp/B002A3E3HQ

Especially with kids, this should make life so much easier. Just go. When the container is full, detach it and go into any toilet and drain it into the bowl. Just make sure to use chemicals when you use it to dissolve the solids and control odor.

The 2.6 gallon model is only 12 inches tall, which is why I linked that in, should fit in almost any van. If you have space for a bucket, you have space for a real toilet. The 5 gallon is taller.

Morning peeing, waking up in the night peeing, forgot/couldn't stop to go pee in the early evening, getting a stomach bug and being stuck in the van for a few days - I mean the first time the kid gets the runs, without a portable toilet you're going to be experiencing a living nightmare. The kid's not going to be able to hold it and you'll probably get a much more up close and personal view of diarrhea than most of us want.

Found it on Amazon here:

Valterra Products, Inc. R920TWVP... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002N5PNOS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

We used this one https://www.amazon.com/RV-Tissue-Digester-19-Thetford/dp/B000GPO6FO

It took a couple of days. Be very careful when it unclogs. Almost every fulltimer has horror stories about black tanks and wearing them!

Once you’ve freed the blockage you might like to use on of the products others are suggesting for doing a clean out of any residue. I prefer the Thetford products but they’re often more expensive than competitors.

Now, about your toilet paper. Septic safe paper isn’t great in RVs but you really don’t need to buy anything special. We don’t. Like lots of others we stick with Costco’s Kirkland paper. The really important thing is to use plenty of water. Most toilet manufacturers recommend filling the toilet 2/3rds with water. This gives a bit of power to the flush. Adding a squirt of laundry fabric softener makes the sides of the pipes slippery and doesn’t usually interfere with enzymes. (FWIW we only use enzymes a couple of times a year).

As long as you use plenty of water and don’t go overboard with tp use you aren’t likely to block up. If you’re boondocking and conserving water try throwing used wet tp into a bag to dispose of later. Please flush the poop paper. Nobody wants that stuff in trash bins.

Hope this helps!

Get ya one of these, keeps the black/grey a’flowin!


Camco 20ft Sidewinder RV Sewer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BUU5WW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Mine did the same thing. I just put a valtera twist on waste valve on the end to solve this problem.

Valterra Black T58 Twist-On Waste Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BGHYJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wfbEDb0YH8FXT

I converted a utility trailer to a camper. Not that hard. Some insulation and paneling, carpet for the floor, a little pump sink cabinet with a space underneath for a marine toilet, and some kind of propane heater and stove setup.

I use two gallon kerosene cans heated on my stove for showers. I put them on the roof and run water down inside with a solar shower nozzle and siphon bulb. All you need is shallow wooden pan to stand in and drain the water below. I catch the water in this, so I'm self-contained and I have even stayed in a regular RV park right next to fancy motor homes.

Then put in a cot, cooler, storage boxes for your clothes and other stuff, and that's pretty much all you need.

By far the hardest part is the insulation and paneling, but you have to do it to stay warm in cold weather. So if you can find a trailer or van that's already insulated it will be much easier.

I use this tight now, but there are many options, including some that you can apparently dig a hole and dump in the ground? Some kind of Eco Friendly stuff. Anyways I use this the last couple times and just dumped it when I got back. It's definitely a game changer for those not looking forward to squatting behind a bush.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-41195-Ultra-Concentrate-Treatment-Formaldehyde/dp/B007H2PH02/ref=mp_s_a_1_31?ie=UTF8&qid=1541440086&sr=8-31&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=porta+potty+chemicals&dpPl=1&dpID=413mlDzHq7L&ref=plSrch

I had the same problem a couple years ago. I used this stuff and smell went away quickly. I use it a couple times a season and haven’t had a problem since.

Camco TST Lemon Scent RV Grey Water Odor Control, Stops Sink Trap Odors, For Use I...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JG1W1E/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_rzjkDbP2QXH2Y

I'd ask the park if you want to know for sure. You may want something like this you can dump the gray tank into, then tow this portable tank (slowly) to the dump station with your car.

https://smile.amazon.com/Tote-N-Stor-25608-Portable-Waste-Transport/dp/B0085KGOIE?sa-no-redirect=1

At your relative's house.. depending on how far you are from their sewer clean out.. one way to go might be the Sewer Solution. You can get extra hose for it or use 1" plastic pipe. Even pumps uphill.

We use it instead of the standard slinky. Slower but cleaner.


http://www.amazon.com/Valterra-SS01-Boxed-SewerSolution-System/dp/B00CCYWJQK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397062810&sr=8-1&keywords=sewer+solution

Get you one of these bad boys:

https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T1020-1-Waste-Valve-Capped/dp/B0006N5RYK

Hook up a garden hose to it and crack open your gray valve just a bit. Run your hose 25-50 feet away into some brush or grass. Easy way to get rid of the minimal gray water you use to wash dishes or brush teeth. Keep in mind this thing is not intended to be used so you can shower or bathe in your RV. With no hookups you should be using the campground showers. And as long as you use the campground toilets as much as possible you will be fine. Nighttime emergencies are acceptable but much more than that and your black tank will fill pretty fast.

Edit: do NOT run black water through this cap and garden hose setup. Gray water only. Your black tank valve should never be open unless you have a full size sewer hose connected and are dumping the black tank.