Best sata cables according to redditors
We found 2,419 Reddit comments discussing the best sata cables. We ranked the 408 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 2,419 Reddit comments discussing the best sata cables. We ranked the 408 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Your MIL is a bitch, but you know that part.
On to the important part. Buy a new laptop. Then buy this: https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Drive-Adapter-Converter-External/dp/B00BIE996S/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1542401955&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=hard+drive+to+usb&dpPl=1&dpID=51ap6s9o3qL&ref=plSrch
These are amazing and super easy. Remove the old hard drive from the broken laptop. Plug it in. Pull all desired files onto new laptop. Lost files recovered. TADA!!!
https://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84?sa-no-redirect=1
These work great
Cable Matters 2 Pack 15 Pin SATA to 4 SATA Power Splitter Cable - 18 Inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012BPLW08/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1r6PBbHJS8FF0
<sigh>
You have anger management issues.
Not subject to debate. Not a question.
You have anger management issues.
You should do something about that.
> my little sister accidentally spilled a glass of water on my computer at home and it wasn’t working
This isn't /r/techsupport or /r/computertechs but I can tell you with moderate confidence that your data is still on the hard drive, and can be recovered pretty easily.
If it's a slightly older, or value-oriented laptop, it probably has a 2.5" drive inside.
You just need a nerd to open the laptop, remove the drive, hook it up to something like this and bada-bing-bang-boom your old laptop will show up like a giant USB-Stick.
If it's a modern, higher-performance, or super-mega-ultra-thin laptop it may be glued shut, in which case the level of difficulty just went way the hell up - but if the laptop is already dead, and if you are writing the laptop off as unworthy of repair, then we can use destructive methods to open the laptop to remove the storage device with all your stuff on it.
SOME laptops do not use a removable internal storage device. These are pretty much always the super-ultra-thin devices. You might be in a real pickle with one of these devices.
But if we're talking about a $600 Acer from BestBuy, it's a really easy task you could probably do yourself with a little Googling.
I don't want to delve any deeper into this in this community. Please feel free to engage the nerds in /r/techsupport or something for guidance on what to do.
But I wanted you to know the situation may not be unsalvagable.
Now, back to your intended LOR teacher. Odds are fair that you just inflicted serious damage on your relationship with them.
I wouldn't write you anywhere nearly as positive a LOR after this event as I might have before this event.
And if you're being honest with yourself, neither would you.
Anger Management. Get some help.
needs to be sold by Store4PC and Fulfilled by Amazon, try this link (not a referral):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011M8YACM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A29Y8OP2GPR7PE&amp;psc=1
USB to SATA cables are $10 on Amazon.com problem solved.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/
Not recent at all, been an issue for atleast 10years
Video explain it a bit.
There are several points of failure of these ranging from in adequate gauge wire and shitty insulation but one odd ball thing is the plastic used in injection molding is an insulator but still slightly conductive, the voltage from the pins over time exchange metal for plastic (similar to electroplating) till they bridge from +V pins to G pins, when this happens the plastic that has a low thermal rating melts allowing even more of a short and then it all just burns up. Crimped connectors use a much better plastic that doesn't suffer from this issue. This is why thin gauge wires have VA rating and use very certain insulator to stop things like this from happening.
Electricity has a way of finding the path of least resistance and will do weird shit to achieve this. I've seen this quite a few Molex to sATA failures and also on HV power supplies (mostly CFL ballasts) arc thru insulators from a microcrack, it's one of the reason its SUPER no-no to run metal (especially sulfate containing w/ copper tubes) LPG/LNG lines near CFL lamps.
TL;DR
Good
Bad
I keep this guy around for just that.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000J01I1G
I’ll try to break down a parts list since OP didn’t explicitly say one and I am looking into this project myself:
On break at work so i’ll make this quick. Most motherboards come standard with these but there are outliers. Looked these up quick just to give you an idea. The right angle side of the cable would plug into your drives and should help you keep away from bending your cables with the back panel. Hope this helped.
Data cables
Power cables
Edit: These are also good to use.
This is good:
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-108794-24-Inch-15-Pin-Female/dp/B009GULFJ0
https://www.amazon.com/Syba-Molex-Right-Angle-SY-CAB40018/dp/B003AVN6D4
This is not:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Molex-Power-Adapter/dp/B00STNUB04
In the "good" ones, the whole wire is passed through the connector and pierced.
Most of the bad ones are the ones where the cable enters from the back instead of the bottom.
Grab one of these: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478567410&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+sata+adapter
Of course make sure it's the right connector for your HDD. You will need USB 3 for that one to work too, since it needs more power than USB 2 can deliver.
And then boot up a linux machine and see if it's recognized. If Linux is no good, I've had luck with Mac as well, Windows seems a lot more finicky about whether it will take a shot at figuring out a broken harddrive or not.
Getting data off a drive this way works a lot more often than booting the device, since you're just trying to get raw data off of it rather than needing it to boot first then get data off of it.
If it's the MacBook Pro 2012 13" non retina then you may be experiencing the extremely common hard drive cable failure as described here https://beetstech.com/blog/prevent-a1278-mid-2012-hard-drive-cable-failure.
If you happen to have a USB to SATA caddy/connector then you can plug your SSD into your Mac via USB, if it boots then that pretty much proves a hard drive cable issue.
&#x200B;
You can buy the hard drive cable from Beetstech with a lifetime warranty https://beetstech.com/product/hard-drive-cable-923-0104.
I know that Samsung SSDs come with software (data migration) to handle this process for you. Just need to get something like this so you can have both drives hooked up at the same time to the same machine.
It is a 44 pin ATA drive. 4 of the pins provide power. If you are going to attach it to a PC that has IDE on board, you are going to need an adapter like this one... http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0072UKJ3O
Otherwise you are going to need something like this... http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000J01I1G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1383047362&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
It's not as likely as you would be lead to believe, but I would not recommend leaving it powered on while you're away for an extended period of time. (Make a sandwich? Sure. Go to work for the day? Maybe not.)
Cheap Part
Better Design
Meanwhile, I'm using one of these sketchy SATA-to-SATA things since I need a short splitter to power two SSDs. I really should fix that.
A fast and easy option is get a sata power spliter. Just snip the last wire which disables the 3.3v pin and they work perfectly fine. It is what I did.
You're looking for
this adapterthis adapter.Edit: The hard drive is probably formatted as NTFS. If that's the case, then basically, all you can do on it is copy things from it to your Mac (which is what you said you wanted to do, so you should be fine). You can't actually change anything on the hard drive unless you get some software to fix it (you can also fix it yourself; I'll link you to a tutorial for that if you run into the issue). If the hard drive is formatted as FAT32 or exFAT, then you shouldn't run into any problems.
You could take off the plastic case and use something like this: StarTech.com SATA to USB Cable - USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA III Hard Drive Adapter - External Converter for SSD/HDD Data Transfer (USB3S2SAT3CB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_zMPYDbY41HJJ5
I use these spliters for more SATA power connectors and These hotswap cages for housing the drives. They are often on sale at newegg for $40-60, this card Flashed to IT mode will add another 8 sata connections via two sas connectors(sff-8087) via a breakout cable
Currently I am running 8x3tb drives in my pc with a gtx 970 and my 550watt PSU handles it just fine.
I bought a Kingston SATA 250GB SSD with a SATA to USB adapter. Works great.
SSD
Adapter
That's just a standard IDE hard drive. something like this should work for you. It comes with the cables you would need, and you simply plug it into your computer like you would a flash drive, no software needed and it should show up as another storage device.
Yep. They're way more durable and pretty much just as fast as an internal SSD. I use this connector:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
120gb SSDs are cheap these days. I recommend going this route.
I've used them at work for old machines that needed to be recovered. We made image backups of all hard drives using this converter since it works with IDE drives.
IDE/SATA to USB
There are sata splitter cables as well. I haven't seen anything about them failing, and there is a review on amazon here warning to use this instead of a molex to sata adaptor because they'd had one fail and cause a small fire in their PC. Better safe than sorry!
Just an FYI that cable may be a replacement for a modular power supply.
This may be more what you're looking for
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0086OGN9E/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1535523722&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B003ZDNY02&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=0NHBRPMN3PC3VKZQKPRK
Or this
http://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-SY-CAB40018-Molex-15-Pin/dp/B003AVN6D4/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=undefined&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=molex+to+sata
If you care about your disks or are using certain enterprise drives you should be using decent quality sata to sata splitters such as https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E
Some drives have issues if they don't have the extra 3.3v leg.
That's awfully expensive for what you get. You could buy any 480GB 2.5" SSD on the market, and replace the HDD with that. I've replaced several unibody MBPs and MBs with standard SSDs with very good results.
Since average SSDs of that size are on average around $130, you're practically paying $90 for an enclosure for the old HDD and some cheap tools. You can get all of those off Amazon if you really wanted to, and also pick up a USB to SATA cable for $10 to transfer your old stuff, and still save money.
As for reliability of SSDs like the Sandisk or Crucial, I have SSDs ranging from a few cheap Sandisks SSDs to Samsung 960 EVOs, and unless you're constantly transferring GBs of files you won't see an appreciable difference, from boot up times to load speeds. Hope this answered any concerns you had.
Just buy a SATA III to USB connector, plug it into your Xbox, and install Destiny on it. Crisis averted.
Trying to back up a hard disk after it fails usually ends up in partial or complete data loss.
Your best bet would be to buy an inexpensive external hard disk adapter, plug it into the usb port of a working computer, and run a program to attempt to recover any data off the drive. You'll have to hope for the best, but expect the worst. If you're lucky (read: very lucky), only boot partitions of the drive have failed, and your data is mostly untouched.
You would need an adapter similar to this one, but of course make sure that the HDD adapter is for your hard disk in particular, i.e. 2.5" v.s. 3.5"
I'd recommend taking the hard drive out to see what size it is and then ordering a SATA to USB connector lead online. You can then plug the hard drive into any computer. That way you can have a look for yourself to see if there is anything 'dodgy' on there, and if you don't find anything, you could put back the hard drive and get it computer fixed with out worrying about it.
I picked up this SATA to USB lead recently off of Amazon for $12 and it works great: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84
You're missing a master/slave jumper as well. Some drives won't operate correctly without it on.
Edit:
Here's the easiest way to deal with older drives people need stuff off of:
https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Drive-Adapter-Converter-External/dp/B00BIE996S/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506453457&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=ide+to+usb
You can install Hassio on Raspbian on an SSD, which is what I do. More reliable, you have all the Hassio addons, and you can install other things on the SSD. Not all adapters will work with the Pi, but I found this USB-SATA adapter works.
Depending on which Pi you have, you might need to manually enable USB boot. See here for more info.
If she won’t let you do a fresh windows install (recommended as it’s probably got tons of bloatware, but causes you reconfigure and reinstall everything) Grab a Samsung SSD and one of these: https://www.amazon.com/SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable-Black/dp/B07FDTY299
Use Samsung’s Data Migration software to clone the SSD then when the cloning is done swap the drives. Depending on the amount of data it should take an hour or so.
If you do a fresh install just swap drives first, install windows then transfer data with that same cable back to her new profile.
That'll work fine. Brands don't matter much - they're all going to be a big step up.
For installation you'll need a small (P1) phillips screw driver, and a Torx T6 driver. I'd also recommend a can of Compressed Air Duster - if you're in there, clean it up. Any semi-good multi-bit precision screw driver set will have both. If you want to keep your data, you'll also want to have a USB SATA cable (something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SSHD-USB-3-0-SSD-SATA-2-5/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=pd_sbs_23_3/258-6658474-5826456?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B011M8YACM&pd_rd_r=bb016fd2-3304-11e9-88d3-9bfb40e6fdf8&pd_rd_w=OEqZv&pd_rd_wg=5R3O5&pf_rd_p=18edf98b-139a-41ee-bb40-d725dd59d1d3&pf_rd_r=HSN8B74MBPD7Z1J2SCSJ&psc=1&refRID=HSN8B74MBPD7Z1J2SCSJ) which will let you migrate your data back after you install your new drive.
On a clean surface shut down the machine and flip it over, undoing the 8 screws on the bottom (3 will be longer, and 5 will be short) on the bottom case. Should just pop off then. On the right-hand side of the device closest to you is the battery - a short cable with a black plastic cap on the top right is the battery connector. Disconnect the battery. (Not absolutely required, but safer).
Once open, give the inside a dusting, then look for the hard drive in the lower left hand corner. Right above it will be a small plastic holding bar, held in with two locking Phillips screws. Remove them and the bar and set aside.
Slide the drive out of the IR bracket on the opposite side and disconnect from the Hard Drive Flex SATA Cable. Be careful - break this cable, and you're adding another 25$ cable to your repair.
Remove the 4 T6 Torx screws from the original drive and put them into the matching holes on your new drive. Attach to the flex cable and reseat into the IR bracket and settle in. Replace the holding bar and screw it back in, making sure it's secure. Reconnect the battery.
Replace the bottom case and replace the screws. The 3 long ones are on the top right as it's sitting in front of you. The short screws you might need to angle slightly - they should sit flush.
If you have an OS install disk you're good - if not, reboot holding Command and R to get to Internet Recovery to install a fresh copy of mOS. It will let you connect to wifi (or auto-connect to your Wired network if you have an ethernet connection). When it boots (it will take a while, it's downloading most of an OS) open Disk Utility, format your new SSD (choose Mac OS Extended Journaled for the format) and you'l be able to then install mac OS.
Once installed, if you have a SATA cable you should then be able to go into macOS setup and use Migration assistant to copy your data - if it gives an error saying it was created on a newer version of macOS, you can back to the point, create a temporary user called Administrator or Update or something like that, then update your system. With a Mid-2012 with an SSD there's no reason not to be on 10.14 Mojave, so create a temporary user, update your system using the App Store to Mojave, and then you can go into Migration Assistant again (it's in the Applications/Utilities folder).
I hope this helps you out!
yup.. put hdd cages instead of gpus. = NAS here is what you need for power to drives.. these are the tooless style sata power connections, meaning you dont need an expensive molex crimper.. you can pull them off and reposition to your liking. https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Pack-Power-Splitter/dp/B012BPLW08/ or https://www.amazon.com/LINESO-4xSATA-Female-Splitter-19-5Inches/dp/B074DSHKYR/
You can definitely stick with the Fractal series. I did because I couldn't have a loud, unsightly machine setup anywhere in my home. I have my main system w/ 10 Drives + 2 SSDs + 3 NVME drives in an R6. That has a DAS connected with 19 drives inside an R5; 8 stock bays + 3 in 2x5.25 bay adapter + extra 3 drive cage + extra 5 drive cage.
As you are in Europe, you might not even have to pay crazy shipping charges to buy spare drive cages from https://www.fractal-design-shop.de/Define-R5_1. In the US I had to source the extra drive cages from r/hardwareswap but that proved to be easier than I expected. Here is a pic I took before I added the 2nd 5-bay drive cage: https://imgur.com/a/TWL8IB1
Edit: Request for more info...
I have not done a build log as I am not yet "finished" with the build, but it looks like there is sufficient demand for parts info so here it goes:
I have an R6 for my main NAS server loaded with the motherboard, 10 3.5 drives and one SSD. The R5 has two extra drive cages (3 + 5) as well a 2x5.25-to-3x3.5 bay adapter.
The expansion cards I use are:
Additional parts I used:
More inspiration can be found here: https://www.serverbuilds.net/16-bay-das
Sure, this one. I needed 4 sets to get enough connectors for all my drives. Take the back cover off of the connector, its just clipped on. Pull the wire up from both sides to keep the metal connector in place. Repeat for all the connectors. Then put your drives in your caddy or whatever you're using, put the empty connectors on the drives, then run your new wire across all of them for perfect spacing. I used new 18ga wire, but you could reuse the old too. Skip the wire for the 3.3v line, then get a flathead screwdriver out and push the wire into the connectors. Do the same for the female connector with however much spacing you want, then just put the back covers back on and you're all set.
All in all I think it took me an hour or so to do my 3 caddies. Once you figure out how to do it it goes pretty quick. Super easy as well, just make sure to double check you have the female connector the right direction so you're not reversing the pins power and killing your drives.
Slimline Sata adapter.
I just build with one in my HTPC the other day:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009JXKQ9O/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Taking it somewhere will cost major $$$, use a screwdriver to take off the backplate, unscrew the hard drive, unplug it (by pulling directly where it is connected), then buy a SATA to USB adapter and plug it in a computer to copy stuff off of it like a USB. Costs $15 max, most places charge $100+.
If you're not feeling confident about the disassembly, look up "(laptop model) hard drive replacement" on YouTube, I've worked in IT for many years and have only come across a handful of laptops obscure enough to not have a teardown/drive/RAM replacement video on YouTube.
I hate viewing amazon mobile links on the desktop, the page is so blank and the pictures are uselessly small. Heres your list with normal links:
Adapters:
As others noted, yes, a relatively easy thing normally. There are a few possible difficulties however.
Low cost machines from Dell. HP, etc. tend to not anticipate an end user wanting to upgrade so the machine has just what it needs, nothing more. Sold with one drive? Then no room to mount a second drive, no additional power connectors for a second drive.
So, does the new machine have an open cage to mount the drive in? Does it have the needed SATA power connection and is it near where you'll mount the drive?
Additionally, when the machine boots will it see the OS on old drive and try to boot from it (which will fail)?
All of these issues can be bypassed by using a USB adapter such as this one on Amazon: [Vantec USB adapter](https://www.amazon.com/Vantec-CB-ISATAU2-Supports-2-5-Inch-5-25-Inch/dp/B000J01I1G/ref=sr_1_2?
ie=UTF8&qid=1502495463&sr=8-2&keywords=usb%2Bdrive%2Badapter&th=1) or, if you're going to keep it plugged in, a dock like this one: USB Docking Station.
With either of those there's no need to open the machine, just connect via USB.
Remember also that old machine is most certainly recoverable. If nothing else a fresh Win 10 install will have it working unless, unlikely but possible, you actually caused physical damage of some sort to the motherboard. If you want to get it running again post here and we can work on it.
Your best option will probably be to get some sort of adapter that will let you hook the laptop drive up to your PC (or new laptop) via USB. There are hard drive docks that support both desktop and laptop sized HDs that are very easy to use, such as this:
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Duplicator-Function-EC-HDD2/dp/B00IKC14OG
Or, there are cheaper options such as this adapter:
http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-30504-Serial-Adapter/dp/B000UO6C5S
Once you hook your old drive up with something like that, you can just copy your files over like copying from any other folder on your PC to another. Good luck!
I've been using devices exactly like that, with sata in addition, to back up data for customers for over 7 years now, with no problems.
I wouldn't worry about it.... the ones I use are from vantec, and come with a power supply that gets very heavy use... I think we have 4 of these in my shop right now, I've only ever seen one die, and never seen one cause problems.
I highly recommend that particular brand, and that particular device; don't settle for cheap imitations.
Something like this is super useful. I've gotten data off a couple drives with these.
http://www.amazon.com/Vantec-CB-ISATAU2-Supports-2-5-Inch-5-25-Inch/dp/B000J01I1G/
http://www.amazon.com/Vantec-CB-ISATAU2-Supports-2-5-Inch-5-25-Inch/dp/B000J01I1G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418483541&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=hd+usb+adaptador
look around Amazon there are more like it.
I am not sure if this will work with a TV or not
You can pick up an "External Hard Drive Enclosure" or some cables like this :
http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Go-30504-Serial-Adapter/dp/B000UO6C5S/ref=sr_1_49?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1311887400&amp;sr=8-49
It basically lets you hook hard drives up to a USB port on another computer and use it like an External Hard Drive.
Make sure you know what kind of hard drive you have and that whatever you're buying hooks up to it (IDE / SATA). Google the model of your drive to find out what it is.
Trying to repair it as an external drive is likely to fail. You are far better off getting something like this.
http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-30504-Serial-Adapter/dp/B000UO6C5S
or
http://www.amazon.com/Drive-Adapter-Converter-Optical-External/dp/B001OORMVQ/
Or you can just open up your computer (if it is a tower, not a laptop) and install it inside.
Well I guess I'll be ordering now. Quick question while I'm here. Do I need this for my SSD?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0086OGN9E/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_MSWBCbH62Y3RM
I got that it's been working great on my shucked easystores.
I would:
If you sent pictures of the old hard drive, I could likely verify it'd work before you spend the $14. A possible complication is that the new (Windows) computer may have NTFS protections and the new (Windows) computer may respect those, not allowing you to access the files. There are ways around that, like running a Live CD for Linux that disregards NTFS protections.
You don't need to spend that much. This Sandisk 240GB model along with this SATA III to USB 3 cable will do just as well for less money, but it won't look as pretty lol.
I have used this one before: https://www.amazon.com/Kingwin-FPX-001-Controller-Controls-Independent/dp/B00DP9WRZY
And it works great! You can hook up to 4 fans to it and to control the speed just turn the knob.
Then you will wanna buy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Vantec-SATA-IDE-Adapter-CB-ISA225-U3/dp/B01E7EPKUO
So the fan controller has a MOLEX adapter for power. The data to usb has a MOLEX to power cable in the box (I’ve had a few and the vantech one that I listed should have an inline power button).
I’ve tried splicing the cables and although that works this is far far easier and effective. I hope you see this before you buy to many other solutions because I personally think this is the easiest.
Good luck and happy growing :)
If you get a USD to SATA adapter you can clone/transfer files directly from the HDD to SSD.
Buy (or borrow) a USB to SATA cable https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
This will allow access to the harddrive if the data is not encrypted.
Best of luck.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_a3LSAbPG98N78
If you don’t have an Amazon Prime account, do yourself a favor and get one.
It's super easy. Maybe 5 minutes to get the screws out, 5 minutes to put the drive in, 5 minutes to put the screws back. Most of the time will just be cloning your HDD to the SSD, or copying your data over if you want a clean install of macOS.
Pop the bottom off, unscrew some bracket, pull a cable off. Move the screw/pegs from the HDD to the SSD, then pop it in.
iFixit Guide:
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Pro+15-Inch+Unibody+Mid+2009+Hard+Drive+Replacement/1715
You can skip the part about removing the battery. It isn't necessary to pull the HDD. Just make sure to lift the hard drive slowly so that you don't pull its cable.
I recommend the Samsung EVO, 250GB, 500GB, etc. And don't forget to enable TRIM.
You can use the built-in Disk Utility to clone ("image") your HDD to the SSD. You just need a USB adapter for that.
250 GB SSD, $93:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OAJ412U/
Port-powered SATA/USB (should work fine for external SSDs), $12.50:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/
500 GB SSD, $170:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OBRE5UE/
Powered SATA/USB adapter (may be needed for some external HDDs), $22:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005B3VO24/
HDDs are not hard to pull from a desktop and you can get a cheap USB adapter to access it on a new computer. Youtube should have plenty of directions.
https://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504234904&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=sata+to+usb+adapter&amp;psc=1
Assuming that it's a normal 2.5in HDD, you should just be able to remove it and connect it to another device. You can either connect it internally to another PC or you could get a HDD to usb adapter like this You should also be able to find a YouTube video on how to remove the HDD from your specific laptop, if you're unsure.
I've seen an adapter that has RAID hardware built in that will let you use both M2 cards in one 2.5in drive slot, and you can just throw that into a T440 drive caddy
If not, you can do the above with a basic single m2 to 2.5in adapter and use a ribbon cable, the second m2 card should fit in the space even if not technically attached to it. I haven't seen an M2 extension cable but have seen MSATA ones
M2 cards seem to be just the right size that maybe there is an ExpressCard adapter for them too
(you never have to start from scratch -- use a USB-to-IDE/SATA cable and mount your dying drive like its external storage. Rescue documents from there.)
My first reaction is, you have 760 gb of data that apparently... isn't backed up? Because if it was, you wouldn't be asking this question... so , that's something really you should deal with.
Second thought it a crossover cable will do exactly what you want to do, but what might be easier (and definitely faster) would be to purchase a sata toaster or at least a sata to usb cable, pull the drive from the old computer, connect by cable and copy the data over.
Edit -> something like this
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
Git is awesome, but switching to Linux is its own project. Limit your scope and focus on one thing.
I would strongly consider getting a new hard drive, like an SSD if you don't already have one.
Take out your old drive and install Linux fresh on the new one. Then access your old files from the old drive via a stata cable.
Invariably there will be stuff you forget, like you personal macro workbook in Excel, or that one folder that you put right on your c drive.
Your total investment will be less than $100 and you'll be a lot happier (and you can switch back if you have an unexpected problem, options are valuable!)
Stata cable example StarTech.com USB 3.0 to 2.5” SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable w/ UASP – SATA to USB 3.0 Converter for SSD/HDD - Hard Drive Adapter Cable
If you're encrypting your drives and even you can't pull the data if the drive is removed, you're not doing a good thing imo. The data should just be a SATA-to-USB cable and security key away.
Recently did this very thing on my wife's laptop.
This cable http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00, and a thumb drive with Clonezilla installed is all it took (http://clonezilla.org/). Took about 30 minutes to clone the drive, then physically swapped in the new SSD. 0 problems encountered.
There are plenty of youtube videos that will walk you through the clonezilla process step by step.
In no circumstances should anyone use molex to sata use this instead.
Those look pretty molded to me too. I use these ones, myself:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E
The connector is upside-down, so it's a bit of a pain to use, but I'm only using 2 of the 4 slots at the moment.
Getting the data off to a new machine is simple so long as the disk isn't shot: https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Drive-Adapter-Converter-External/dp/B00BIE996S/
The Goodwill up off of Delta has a good computer parts store for a new supply if needed.
You can go cheap on the opening tools without being penalized.
Laptops and the like aren't cars - they don't require tons of force but you DO need the right bits and/or shims to get them open without stripping heads or damaging plastics.
Something similar to this which has a bunch of bits, magnetized pickup, and "guitar" style plastic pry tools should do fine.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073ZWY386/ref=twister_B07FMWPBKN
A portable multimeter is always useful, I like the ones that fold in on themselves so you can throw them in a bag.
https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Multimeter-Ranging-Pocket-Tester/dp/B06Y4RZY45
Get some Cat5e clips, put them in a ziploc, and throw them in your bag along with a crimping tool, needle nose pliers, and wire stripper. You will be surprised how often you need to re-crimp a cable or make a new one on-site.
Note - if you don't know how to make a cable, definitely practice that first!
Get an ethernet/phone continuity tester. You don't need a Fluke CableIQ (they're nice though!) but a basic continuity tester will let you (laboriously) trace any ethernet jacks that need tracing. And you can test those cables you just made or just fixed.
I have one basically identical to this and I've used it for over 10 years now I think. Money well spent.
https://www.amazon.com/Tonor-RJ45-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B00OUFX38W
As mentioned before, something to read a drive(s).
Any multi sd-card reader will do but instead of a dock you may want something like this since it is more portable. Yet another thing I've had for over 5 years and used countless times.
https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Drive-Adapter-Converter-External/dp/B00BIE996S
No backup? How dead is the drive, it could be recoverable (or at least some of the data)
I'd suggest getting this SATA to USB 3.0 adapter and pick up/buy/torrent Wondershare Data Recovery
Best of luck, I'll miss your terrific gifs in the interim
That's an IDE drive. All you need is an external USB adapter and you'll be able to access it. Here's an adapter from Cables-To-GO that's a good choice because it will work with old IDE drives like that, but will also work with new SATA drives. That way you're not buying something that only works with old drives.
Drive diagnostics can make data recovery more difficult on a failing drive. Please backup your data before attempting anything else, including drive diagnostics.
You can connect it to another computer with either an external enclosure, or a USB-SATA converter kit like this:
http://www.amazon.com/USB-SATA-5-25-Cable-Adapter/dp/B000YJBL78
Both of which should be available at a local electronics retailer. Fry's, MicroCenter, and TigerDirect will all carry them. You might have even have an option at a BestBuy, Target, or even Wal-Mart for the enclosures.
A SATA to USB adapter/dock
here is a quick search for one.
http://www.amazon.com/NEON-All--Docking-Station-reader/dp/B0047P77HI/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421263059&amp;sr=8-16&amp;keywords=sata+dock
---
or you can go a bit cheaper - but I've not had as much luck with these.
http://www.amazon.com/USB-SATA-5-25-Cable-Adapter/dp/B000YJBL78
If you want nVidia
If you want AMD
Most 1050s and 1060s with the single fan are 6pin
All Rx560s are 6pin to my knowledge.
If you're wanting to get into bigger cards you're going to need to uprgade the PSU to one with 8pin or mess around with adapters.
Can you get some SATA Power splitters like this?
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-Power-Splitter-Cable-Adapter/dp/B002N2EHVQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1537711882&sr=8-4&keywords=sata+power+splitter
&#x200B;
Thats what I use and have not had any issues.
Get a couple of these and turn one sata power to four.
https://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E
I use a 320GB Western Digital hard drive that I salvaged from a TalkTalk YouView box. I use this Sabrent SATA to USB adapter that I got off Amazon (v.good quality). I think that this is the drive that WD use in their Passport as it runs off 5V 500mA (what USB supplys) and it is quite small. But the Pi supplys slightly less than 5V 500mA. I connect the drive to a powered USB hub (powered by this external power supply) connected to the Pi. I keep this plugged into my Pi 24/7 as I use a Pi instead of a desktop computer. I leave it in during boot and shutdown. It works well and I use it to store all of my data and I have set a folder on it as my Chromium downloads folder.
I think you had a faulty USB. Hope you didn't lose too much data.
Yep, if anything, just take out the battery and plug it in and see if it turns on.
Worst case scenario, you can just pull the hard drive and use this sata to USB adapter to get your files off and use it as an external drive. GL!
that's more work than the usb3.0-sata adapters, grabbed two of these on sale a while back for a few bucks each, life savers. https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SSHD/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=sr_1_13?crid=2DLCJ2XTFADGR&keywords=sabrent+usb+3.0+to+sata%2Fide+hard+drive+adapter&qid=1568915797&s=gateway&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sprefix=sabrent+usb%2Caps%2C173&sr=8-13
Use a cable like this to plug your hard drive into another working computer and transfer the stuff out. Then you can wipe it and reinstall the fresh OS once you have it plugged it into your new motherboard.
I use an older Samsung Evo SSD with a plain SATA-USB adapter. No case. The adapter has an LED.
Sabrent USB 3.0 to SSD / 2.5-Inch... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011M8YACM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I'd rather not have an enclosure then.
Here's a USB3-Sata3 interconnect:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SSHD/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468656048&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=usb+3+to+sata
Not all molded, but the majority of the adapters catching fire were molded.
Not sure on those particular adapters, but I do have some Startech 2xSATA to 1x6-pin Y adapters, that happen to be molded, in a mining rig that have been fine.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y91B80/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It's possible I just got lucky.
I'm sure there are y-cables that are crimped, just possibly hard to find. Cable Matters does make a 1 to 4.
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Pack-Power-Splitter/dp/B012BPLW08
This would probably do the trick for you
Vantec SATA/IDE TO USB 3.0... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E7EPKUO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This did the trick for me
I recommend using SATA power splitters.
I have 3 of these for my drives.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541457720&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=sata%2Bpower%2Bsplitter&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41xGVoXngPL&amp;ref=plSrch&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
These are crimped.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=sata+power+splitter&amp;qid=15512362
But before going further...
If you have 4 wires in your power cable it shouldn't be the 3.3v issue as the 4 wires are 12v, 5v, and two ground leads.
If you have 5 wires, the wire closest to the notch in the connector is the 3.3v lead.
https://imgur.com/a/tW8NDP4
For the sata power you just need something like this;
StarTech 4x SATA Power Splitter Adapter Cable https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0086OGN9E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_C-eczb8V3CKRY
Here is my custom SATA power splitter. The top (5th) connector was added afterward. Notice how the rightmost wire is missing, that's the 3.3v wire. https://i.imgur.com/w7FqbFy.jpg
Some folks add the main male connector in between the drive connectors, instead of leaving a short length at the top or bottom (like mine).
Keep in mind that the splitter comes with 4x connectors, so you have to order an extra one in order to complete the row of 5x connectors. So if you have the Rosewell 15x bay chassis, you'll need to order four splitters.
No need for that:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E
StarTech.com 4x SATA Power Splitter Adapter Cable (PYO4SATA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0086OGN9E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lkZxybFHC9CZ1
I just bought one of these for that exact reason. Use it as an extension for the optical drive
You can buy a bunch of these, dismantle, and reassemble without the 3.3v wire. Makes for a really clean cable too.
StarTech 4X SATA Power Splitter Adapter Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0086OGN9E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pQDTCbTN3408G
https://images.app.goo.gl/wbW4z7TGCrhF8bZn9
While the capacitor in those Silverstone cables are suppossed to help even out power as drives spin up, the capacitor quality apparently isn't good (eg ChengX).
I used to use those cables until I read a post on the unraid forums where a user was experiencing multiple drive failures and solved it by removing the CP06 adapters.
I ended up swapping the silverstone adapters out for 1x4 StarTech adapters:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0086OGN9E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
> Picture 3
PLEASE GET RID OF THAT MOLEX TO SATA ADAPTER!
The one you are using has molded ends and are known to cause fires.
If you absolutely must use Molex to SATA, the best ones separate each pin. A close second runner are the ones that splice into the cable.
You have a beautiful build. Please don't risk it over a five dollar cable.
Honestly, I would check out something like the below and just plug it in when you need to rip something. Unless you need to use cd-based media frequently, the use cases for installing one of these drives permanently are disappearing and you can leave the front of your PC looking fresh.
https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Drive-Adapter-Converter-External/dp/B00BIE996S
You could try taking the drive out of it and hooking it up to one of these but some external drives have firmware that only works with the enclosure it came with.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BIE996S/
Pop out the hard drive, grab one of these guys: https://smile.amazon.com/AGPtek-Drive-Adapter-Converter-External/dp/B00BIE996S/
Then plug it into any computer you have around and it will show up as another drive.
this attached to the old hdd and the new pc's usb port, old hdd will show up as another drive on your new pc.
You can try a cheaper USB to SATA adaptor like this one instead of buying another $50 dock. I have a similar dock to yours and there have been drives I could not get it to work with. The adaptor I linked to has always worked flawlessly for me though.
Yup. The red/black/yellow is power, the red one next to it is SATA. They both need to connect to the HDD. And it should also be screwed in so it doesn't bounce around.
Edit:
SATA:
Monoprice 18-Inch SATA III 6.0 Gbps Cable with Locking Latch and 90-Degree Plug - Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GUXU52/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mWQXAbETCRFK4
Power:
StarTech.com LP4SATAFM12 12-Inch SATA to Molex LP4 Power Cable Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GK8SYCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pXQXAbRKHK4NZ
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GK8SYCW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518119299&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=Sata+to+molex
That will do it!
Some people spaz out on awg and current but ignore them. That adapter is just fine, and safe to use long term.
you can use this teardown to get to the harddrive and stick it into a desktop or use a Sata to usb adaptor, or a enclosure to get at your files from another computer
I have this same laptop and it's working perfectly well after upgrading both the RAM and the SSD. Upgrading to an SSD will greatly decrease the boot time of the laptop and adding more RAM will help to make the laptop snappier overall. The first step I would take would be to put an SSD in the laptop, especially considering the horribly long boot times you're experiencing, but both will
Adding RAM will be the easiest change for your laptop, as it doesn't require any transferring of files. I personally have 16 GB of ram in my laptop (2 x 8GB) but in the interest of saving money, you may want to get one 8GB stick of RAM and upgrade again down the line if you desire. When shopping for RAM, you want to make sure that you have a SODIMM sized stick, and that it's running at 1600 MHz speed. Here is an option from Amazon, but you may be able to find other options for cheaper (this was just the first thing I found). You just want to ensure that the RAM you buy is a SODIMM module and is running at 1600 MHz. Assuming the 4GB is in the form of 2 x 2GB sticks, you will have 10 GB of RAM total after installing the new module.
You can easily find videos on how to install RAM on the internet, but as a quick explanation:
You should now be able to go to "About the Mac" then to Memory, and see a 2GB and 8GB (if you get an 8GB stick) module show up.
As for the SSD, it can be a bit more complicated depending on how you want to go about doing it. If you care about all of the data on your old drive, you can clone it using a cloning software. If not, you can copy important files onto a flash drive or external hard drive to paste back into the new installation of macOS.
But first, you need to get the SSD itself. The Samsung 850 Evo is very well liked across the internet and the drive that I personally used. You can get it in whatever capacity you need. That being said, there are other options of SSDs that will be less expensive while still being a massive upgrade over the spinning disk drive that you likely already have. If you do searching around the internet, the only thing you need to be careful of is that the SSD has a SATA connector and isn't a m.2 drive. You'll also need a SATA to USB cable like This
The way I would recommend replacing the drive would be to do a fresh install of macOS, keeping a backup of your important files.
You want to start by plugging the SSD into the SATA to USB cable and the cable into your laptop. Then, open Disk Utility (either by using a spotlight search or finding it in the "Other" folder of the application display (hit the F4 function key)) Once you have disk utility open, you want to find the SSD on the left drop-down menu and erase it. This will format it to be usable as a boot disk for macOS. Note: it's possible that it will work without doing this but I am unsure and think it would be good to be safe here to save the time of having to change it.
As with the RAM, you can probably easily find a video showing how to do it, but I will also list the rest of the steps as I remember them.
Once the new drive is in, you can reboot the laptop and hit the Option key to bring up a boot menu. You should see something that says "Choose a Network" and you can sign into your WiFi to continue. From there you will able to use network recovery to reinstall macOS.
I hope this is helpful and good luck! I'm glad I'm not the only one still using a 2012 MBP :)
edit: formatting, a word
That’s pricey, but I have to say it’s worth it.
My setup is:
Improvement is seen when the game is searching for DLC, though my main motivation was loading times in “The Witcher 3”
That cable I can’t recommend because after a couple of years, it needs a replacement, apparently it broke internally and it works only when placed in a certain position.
Your solution looks like a better idea if you don’t mind the price. Make sure the cable for that device is easily replaceable.
Yes and no. That one wouldn't work but there are products like it that have the 22-pin sata connections that HDD and SSDs use. Also make sure to get a USB 3.0 or 3.1 model.
They also make enclosures that fit 2.5" (laptop size) drives so that you can turn them into portable hard drives.
Let's see I should have the one that i bought in my amaz history...
Yep. It's out of stock now. But here's a similar one.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB3S2SAT3CB-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/
Out of curiosity what are you using it for?
Looks like Crucial gives you free access to Acronis.
https://www.acronis.com/en-us/promotion/CrucialHD-download/
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
Being a laptop I am assuming it is a 2.5 inch sata drive this right here would save you a big head ache. https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-USB-Cable-USB3S2SAT3CB/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sata+to+usb&qid=1565207854&s=gateway&sr=8-3
It would allow you to remove that drive and plug it into a different computer allow you to hopefully recover your data.
Why not just an ssd with a USB adapter? Would certainly be better for lifespan.
Something like this: StarTech USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable w/ UASP - SATA to USB 3.0 Converter for SSD/HDD - Hard Drive Adapter Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IuftxbXK8EBP4
I have a friend that uses one of those for a Windows 10 install that he can carry around for when he needs it.
well, there actually are SATA to USB cables, but I suppose it'll be easier (and cheaper, duh) to do what Graguan suggested
P.S. dont refer to a laptop as PC, as PC stands for personal computer, or a desktop (that's why i suggested that idea im the first place)
Could be that your CPU is dead. It would allow the laptop to show a power light but never actually turn on in any way.
Just get a basic external sata connector and take the hard drive out of the laptop, connect it to a different computer and transfer the files. Something like thisshould work perfectly fine.
Or it could just be a cable adapter like this.
I use this one to test laptop drive pulls at work from older machine that are getting tossed to see if the drives can be reused. Windows just sees an external drive plugged in, and you can run SMART or any other drive testing software you want, or just use the drive as a spare. This also works for adding external drive space on your PS4 or XB1 as well.
You will need to remove the hard drive and put it in an enclosure or use a USB sata adapte. Here is a link for removing the drive. https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Pro+13-Inch+Unibody+Early+2011+Hard+Drive+Replacement/5119
Here is a link for a cheap USB sata adapter for $12. StarTech USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable w/ UASP - SATA to USB 3.0 Converter for SSD/HDD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QFKPybZWC5D1P
You could also buy this external drive for $80. It is fairly easy to open and remove the drive. Then when you have recovered your files you can reinstall the new disk and continue using it as a backup drive so you don't have this issue in the future. You may have to formate the new drive for mac. Seagate Expansion 2TB Portable External Hard Drive USB 3.0 (STEA2000400) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TKFEE5S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uJKPyb5C9BAPK
You can buy one of these, works like a charm:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
Bro just get an actual 2.5" adapter, they're like $10
StarTech.com USB 3.0 to 2.5” SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable w/ UASP – SATA to USB 3.0 Converter for SSD/HDD - Hard Drive Adapter Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wtc9BbG8K3VR0
You'd use an adapter like this(assuming its a sata drive) https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540897474&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=sata+to+usb&amp;dpID=41RlR-Q1siL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
You could also use a flash drive and manually transfer everything.
What you can do is take the hard drive out and use a cable like this:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539453286&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=sata%2Bto%2Busb&amp;psc=1&amp;th=1
to connect it to your new laptop to transfer the files via USB.
What you have described is installing a SSD and putting a fresh install of windows on it. This means that you will have to reinstall any programs, reconfigure preferences, settings, etc. that are on your computer now.
Contrary to some of the below comments, you do NOT have to reinstall windows like this if you don't want to. Cloning the drive will work 100% and will potentially save you time and headache.
I have personally used (4 different times) the Samsung Data Migration software when installing a Samsung SSD into a current system and it has been successful 100% of the time and is VERY easy to use.
> Also I want to remove and install the old hdd or even a new ssd what adapter would I need?
No adapter needed for the install itself. Drives of 2.5" form factor fit right in. You are going to need a screw driver and the drive, nothing else.
However, I assume you want to clone your current OS to the new drive or create a Time Machine backup before installing the new drive, don’t you? In this case, you are going to need a SATA-to-USB adapter like this:
There are two different ways to go about this:
> And last but not least the ram he told me that Kingston HyperX 8GB RAM 1600MHz is compatible but I have this feeling that my Mac will not work with that one? Maybe a different RAM anyone could recommend me?
Your MacBook Pro will need RAM modules that match the following specification:
PC3-10600 DDR3 1333 MHz, 204-pin
Those RAM modules should work, for example:
Your MacBook Pro supports up to 16 GB RAM (2 x 8 GB RAM modules). A higher amount won’t work due to a limitation in the logic board. Make sure you use both RAM slots instead of just a single one, as using a single one when you could use both comes with a (albeit small) performance penalty. So it is better to go for e.g. 2 x 4 GB modules instead of just 1 x 8 GB module.
These videos show you the procedure:
HDD replacement:
RAM upgrade:
In case you want to replace the DVD drive with your old HDD, here is how to do that:
I would play it safe--if you're concerned about data, before doing anything with the laptop, pull the HDD out, assure it has no liquid and keep it in a warm dry space for a little while. Then use a SATA -> USB connector to back the files up to another computer before attempting to power it on inside a potentially wet/damaged laptop.
As for the laptop itself, I'd look into potentially disassembling it as much as you can (look for guides on this and be very careful of thin, breakable cables), and wiping down components that you see beer on carefully, with 91% isopropyl alcohol and a lint/dust free cloth or q-tip. Beer is yeasty and sticky, so you'll want to get it off any components. Isopropyl alcohol as pure as possible is my go-to for component cleaning because it's generally safe on plastics and dries very quickly from electrical components.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6ky9ybBQY30XS
Then Google "sata III ssd 256gb"
For that price you can almost get an external 500GB SSD.
An Internal 500GB you can get from about ~140 USD, maybe you are lucky and find an external on sale somewhere.
250GB SSD is most definitely in the budget.
Edit: Haha, just maybe this combination works: Sata to USB3 + 500GB SSD
That should be fine, usually if your boot record is trashed you can still get the data off with a sata to USB cable which you can buy from Maplins or Amazon for decently cheap. (https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84)
Even if your boot record is FUBAR'd then you can learn up on Ubuntu and usually get anything back with that.
This would be a two piece setup but it supports PCIe m.2 nvme drives. It also has m key support. The first part is the drive adapter and the second is the adapter from the adapter to USB. It comes out to about 45.96 not including shipping for both parts.
https://www.amazon.com/Startech-M-2-U-2-Adapter-Interface/dp/B073W65QX6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504427625&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=pcie+m.2+enclosure+nvme
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=pd_bxgy_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=G63VTGMKHZPAMDF3K5BS
you need something like this: sata to usb 3.0 cable or if you intend to use the harddrive as an external something like this*
That's a SATA drive so you need a USB to SATA cable. Something like this.
Man, I just did this a few weeks ago. I got rid of the DVD drive and moved the 1TB HDD that it came with over to where the DVD drive was at and installed the Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD where the 1TB drive is now, that's because the connector where the HDD is now connected to is SATA III vs SATA I where the DVD drive is at. In other words if you want to better speeds remove the HDD and put the SSD in, then if you want the extra storage space (1TB) remove the DVD drive and put in the HDD there using a caddy.
I found myself needed the DVD drive ZERO (0) times since I've bought the laptop but everyone is different. By the way I highly recommend upgrading the RAM as well, it cost an extra $58 but it's totally worth it. My laptop, fully loaded with Norton 360, Office 2013 Pro, Adobe Acrobat X Pro, and all my other programs boots up in about 7 seconds. Here is the parts I used..
USB to SATA III cable
RAM
You need a T5 screwdriver to remove the screws to get into where the components are, I bought this set because it's handy for other things as well. BE CAREFUL WHEN YOU LOOSEN AND TIGHTEN THOSE SCREWS, THEY STRIP EASILY. Don't tighten them like the lug nuts on your car, TRUST ME!
Just use the cable and the software that came with the SSD to migrate the OS over from the HDD to the SSD, it's that easy!!
If you want I can find the caddy that I used to replace the DVD drive, mine fits perfectly but I had to buy 2 because the first one was the wrong one. The outer plastic shell would not fit on the first one, but the second one fits perfectly. I can even post pictures showing you where the parts are located once you open the laptop.. Let me know, and I hope this helped!*Edit - Found the Caddy
Yes, the 750 ti would work without needing a power cable.
The r9 270 however is quite a bit faster
6-pin pcie http://www.gindart.com/buy/images/CA-906.jpg
You could get a molex adapter, or a new psu
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-6-Inch-Express-Adapter-LP4PCIEXADAP/dp/B0007RXDDM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1405261162&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=6pin+molex
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Builder-Series-EPS-80-certified/dp/B0092ML1SC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1405261292&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=430
Yes, if all you have are HDD power connectors, you can buy these adapters:
6-pin: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-6-Inch-Express-Adapter-LP4PCIEXADAP/dp/B0007RXDDM
6/8-pin: http://www.amazon.com/CableHero-PCI-Express-Adapter-Converter-Gaming/dp/B0032MT0OU
Just make sure your PSU can handle this amount of power. If you get the card and have stability issues, I'd look at your PSU first.
If you have spare LP4 or Sata power connectors, you can use an adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Startech-Com-6-Inch-Express-Adapter-SATPCIEXADAP/dp/B0007RXDDM?th=1
I'm sure he'll manage ;)
You can try a SATA/IDE to USB adapter. Basically, what you have to do is to take the HDD out of the laptop and connect it to another computer that works through this adapter, the same way you do with a flash drive.
You need to pull back on the green tab so that it's in the same position as the others, then pull the hdd out. They fit pretty snug in those caddys so it may take a little force. Check around the 1:40 mark in this vid.
Also, I've used this for a long time to connect ide-usb.
No. The way you would do that, is to open the computer, take the hard drive out, and then use a USB to SATA hard drive adapter to connect it to the working PC.
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Vantec-CB-ISATAU2-Supports-2-5-Inch-5-25-Inch/dp/B000J01I1G
(And I will add, you already have the answer to "how to fix my PC" which is to wipe the drive and do a fresh OS install)
No, probably not. I assume you are looking at one of those USB to PS2 mouse adapters. You can try it, but I doubt anything will happen. You might be better off getting a PCMCIA SD card adapter.
Does your laptop have a network connection? Access to the Internet? If so, you might be able to copy files to or from your laptop over the network, either via a local network share or something like Google Drive or Dropbox.
If none of those options are viable, you could pull the laptop's hard drive and transfer your files using an IDE to USB adapter and another computer.
If you're gonna use it on a PC made in the last decade, you're gonna need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Vantec-CB-ISATAU2-Supports-2-5-Inch-5-25-Inch/dp/B000J01I1G
A cheaply or incorrectly made adapter could send too much power to the drive. This happened recently with faulty USB-C cables, which resulted in phones being fried. Just select one based on good reviews, and you should be alright. This one looks almost identical to the on I purchased at Tigerdirect ~10 years ago, which has worked great.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000J01I1G/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1
^ Just bought one of these to have on hand. Thanks to the people who suggested this to me. I didn't even think about getting one.
Edit: And for anyone wondering, no that is not a referral link.
Something like this makes it way easy:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UO6C5S/
If they're all SATA then just get one of these for the cheapest route:
http://www.amazon.com/Patuoxun-Converter-Adapter-Cable-Drive/dp/B008ASF5MC/
http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-30504-Serial-Adapter/dp/B000UO6C5S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1377704869&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+drive+adapter
Attach this to a file server. No need to make things complicated.
My old shop used to charge about 50 bucks for this.
This is an easy thing to do yourself.
A USB to Sata cable is like 15 bucks on Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/Generic-SATA-5-25-Cable-Adapter/dp/B000YJBL78
All you'd have to do is take the harddrive out of it's current enclosure and connect it to the PC with that cable. Should work fine to recover data.
Sorry if that doesn't directly answer the question but it gives you another option at least.
I could help you out if needed shoot me a PM.
*Edit: If the USB to SATA cable doesn't work than the data is not going to be a standard recovery and local shops won't be able to help anyways.
This is what you need. http://www.amazon.com/Drive-Adapter-Converter-Optical-External/dp/B000YJBL78
It turns HD to USB HD.
No, you can use one of these: https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-PCIEX68ADAP-Express-6-Pin-Adapter/dp/B001TK3TJY But if it's unstable or you get freezes after that means your PSU can't manage the extra load properly.
Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-Power-Adapter-Cable/dp/B001TK3TJY
Here's one on Amazon for $7.99 that qualifies for Prime shipping. I would recommend it.
First, some numbers for you.
A stock R9 290X will do around 29-30MH/s (Claymore) and use ~250W of power at the GPU side, which translates to 312W from the wall at 80% efficiency. Add ~80W at the wall for the CPU/mobo and you're at ~400W for single-coin mining. That's pretty good even for a 600W PSU (but not good if your electricity is expensive). I've run this card with a 180W card on a 750W PSU with no issues.
I've been able to undervolt an R9 so it hovers around 190W at the PSU at 29MH/s but I haven't had the time to push it further. MSI Afterburner has been weird in applying settings. So that setting draws 350W at the wall for single mining, 450W for dual. OUCH.
Now, in your case - you only have 2 VGA power cables so, like you mentioned, you need to use a 6-pin adapter. You say SATA, but be aware that 1x SATA is specced to provide up to 50W. **DO NOT USE SOMETHING LIKE THIS*: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-108494-8-Inch-15-Pin-Express/dp/B009GUP6O0 - first review mentions that they melt! Of course they do, they are pulling all the power from a single SATA pin (even though it goes across two cables, it's the pin that's going to overheat). 6-pin is specced to provide up to 75W, 8-pin up to 150W.
These are much better because 2xSATA (50+50W) exceeds the spec of 6pin (75W) - but I would not do 2xSATA to 8pin:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATPCIEXADAP-6-Inch-Express-Adapter/dp/B007Y91B80
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Molex-Power/dp/B01DV1Z22K
https://www.amazon.com/Tenext-Power-Express-Connector-Adapter/dp/B00DP98P0A
Now, the million-dollar question - which rail are your SATA connectors on? You want to be able to provide 150W over the SATA adapters.
TLDR: A good** 750W PSU is fine for running that combo, but yours might be problematic. You can try, but get dual SATA adapters and definitely watch them for overheating.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E/
The easiest solution is to get a SATA splitter. Modular PSU power cables must match the PSU model.
i have used regular tape aswell as gaffa tape...
a better and proper solution (if you have multiple drives like this) would be to get a sata splitter and then remove the cable that "covers" the pins for 1-3... i just got myself these https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E
Now where each "sata plug" is... you can open the cap remove the wire so it only have 4 wires and then you dont need to do the 3.3v mod anymore and then pop the cover back on.
You could use one of these
For a few bucks you can get an adapter, https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-Video-Power-Adapter/dp/B0007RXDDM?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1
I can sell you my 750Ti. It does require a 6 Pin PSU cable to work, but you can use something like this or this which should be ok.
It depends on what efficiency/quality your power supply is and the rest of your build. But unless the power supply is good, and the rest is as power efficient as I think it is, I wouldn't crossfire it.
If it didn't come with enough connectors, then most likely it wasn't meant to do it. But if you really want to try, do not split the pci-e connectors, it's just basically going to split the power and under-power them, which will most likely lead to crashes and damages. There's a reason why it wants 2x6pins instead of 1x8pin.
Instead get a molex-to-pci, an example is this (link).
It's a Molex LP4 (or just 4-pin molex) to PCIe 6-pin adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-6-Inch-Express-Adapter-LP4PCIEXADAP/dp/B0007RXDDM/
Here's a listing for 2 molex to 6 pin:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0007RXDDM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_s9DYAbWNHSDK2
There's also other connectors on that listing such as sata power to 6 pin but I personally only have experience with molex to 6 pin. Just before you order some adapters make sure your PSU has enough watts to power your system and GPU.
You don't want to mix PCI-E cables between power supplies, only the ends connected to the graphics cards are standardised. If your PSU lacks the extra 6 pin needed you can use a molex adapter to get one.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-Video-Power-Adapter/dp/B0007RXDDM
Make sure to get a proper quality one that pulls power from 2 molex connectors, otherwise you might overheat the pins on a single molex connector and risk damage.
You can buy a couple of these. Needs 2 molex plugs to give you one PCIE plug.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $174.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | MSI B85-G43 GAMING ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $59.99 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $29.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $45.88 @ OutletPC
Video Card | PowerColor Radeon R9 380 2GB PCS+ Video Card | $162.98 @ Newegg
Case | Thermaltake Versa H23 ATX Mid Tower Case | $26.00 @ Newegg
Power Supply | SeaSonic 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $54.99 @ SuperBiiz
Other| Molex to 6-Pin cable (you'll need this because the GPU needs 2 6-pin connections and the PSU only offers 1, so you connect this cable to the molex cables and use that to plug in the other side of it to the second 6-pin connection of the GPU.| $3.49
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $598.31
| Mail-in rebates | -$40.00
| Total | $558.31
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-18 07:08 EST-0500 |
This is much better. You do not need an SSD, that should only come later if you get bored or something, it's not essential and it's a waste of money. Motherboard I chose has better components and supports crossfire if you'll need it. The PSU is much higher quality than the Corsair CX that has been suggested here. One last thing though, if you have more money to spend, I suggest you pick up an MSI R9 390X 8GB for the GPU and a Seasonic S12G-750 for the PSU, and the rest of the components should be as above (and you won't need the Molex to 6-pin splitter cable either)
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor | $199.99 @ Newegg
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $23.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-P67X-UD3-B3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard | $99.99 @ Newegg
Memory | Team Elite 8GB DDR3-1333 Memory | $32.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $77.99 @ NCIX US
Video Card | XFX Radeon HD 7850 2GB Video Card | $209.99 @ Newegg
Case | Antec One ATX Mid Tower Case | $49.98 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | Cooler Master 450W ATX12V Power Supply | $29.99 @ Newegg
Optical Drive | Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer | $17.98 @ Outlet PC
| | Total
| Prices include shipping and discounts when available. | $742.89
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2012-08-08 23:43 EDT-0400 |
You'll need to buy a PCIE power adapter to power your graphics card, but it should run fine (for whatever reason the XFX 7850's have 2 PCIE power connectors, while the standard 7850 only needs 1).
StarTech.com 6-Inch LP4 to 6 Pin PCI Express Video Card Power Cable Adapter (LP4PCIEXADAP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007RXDDM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_i02xwbFC98M5G
Something like that would work
You're gonna need some of these bad boys:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007RXDDM/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Basically.
Let's assume you have a 1 year old computer laying around. It will have a SATA drive, which is a connection standard the drive uses to transfer data to and from the PC. Assuming the computer only has one hard drive, this will be the OS disk. As such, you can't disconnect it - you'll need it to run the OS while you grab your data at the end.
So look at the XP hard drive from the XP machine, and compare them to this picture. Not all modern computer have IDE connections any more, so if your hard drive has an IDE connector, you may need an adapter, like this one on Amazon. Connect the IDE and a female Molex connector and start the computer up. If ithe XP drive is SATA, just find an open SATA port on the motherboard and a free female SATA power connector and start up the computer. (Again, if you cannot find a free SATA port, that adapter I linked should have one.)
Either way, eventually you should reach your modern Windows install, and the OS should register the old HDD as a generic hard disk. From there, you may recover any data you like, or just leave the drive connected (I wouldn't recommend it without a wipe first, but that's personal preference).
Nonsense. It's not like they stopped having equipment in the world to get the data off of the drives.
You can get USB IDE connector. Then all you need to do is pull the drive out and copy it to newer medium. I have one of those and find it handy for imaging drives on laptops.
Mike Mike Mike Mike Mike Mike
As seen on my electronics WL
For anyone who doesn't know what it is, it's an AWESOME tool that allows you to take any hard drive and connect it to your computer via USB. This is extremely useful for computer techs when a drive is dying, a machine won't boot, or you need data from a drive and don't have the password to get in. There's one in my office, but I also need one for myself, as I do a lot of work on the side.
Thanks for the contest!!!
I have one of those things http://www.amazon.com/Vantec-CB-ISATAU2-Supports-2-5-Inch-5-25-Inch/dp/B000J01I1G/ref=pd_bxgy_pc_img_z , except an different version without that nice on/off switch, it saved my life a lot of times already when I had to backup a hdd or use an external cd to install windows/linux on older notebooks.
By your post I'll assume this isn't what you want, but I have one of these and its way more useful. If you get an enclosure for a 2.5" hdd, that's all you can use it for. The adapter I got can do 2.5 and 3.5" IDE HDDs, sata HDDs, as well as sata and IDE optical drives (damn near anything).
I've always had good success with data migration kits such as this one , you could always get a USB 3.0 model as well.
Older mechanical hard drives have much higher failure rates. If you want to use one though you can get a USB enclosure with a built in power supply or get an adapter with an external power supply. Here is an example https://www.amazon.com/Vantec-CB-ISATAU2-Supports-2-5-Inch-5-25-Inch/dp/B000J01I1G
That's an IDE drive.
https://www.amazon.com/Vantec-CB-ISATAU2-Supports-2-5-Inch-5-25-Inch/dp/B000J01I1G
I'd just go with something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Vantec-CB-ISATAU2-Supports-2-5-Inch-5-25-Inch/dp/B000J01I1G
PATA/IDE enclosures are not too common anymore. This is a decent solution for pulling data off old drives.
I use this all in one Sata and iDE
http://www.amazon.com/Vantec-CB-ISATAU2-Supports-2-5-Inch-5-25-Inch/dp/B000J01I1G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420917433&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Vantec+2.5%22%2F3.5%22%2F5.25%22+SATA%2FIDE+to+USB+2.0+Adapter
You can, but no guarantee it'd boot. I was able to swap a W10 drive to another laptop also running W10, but W7 on a made for W10 device might have driver issues.
Best bet is to buy something like this and just plug it into the new laptop via USB and just move it all over that way.
get a usb to ide/sata cable like this http://www.amazon.com/Vantec-CB-ISATAU2-Supports-2-5-Inch-5-25-Inch/dp/B000J01I1G/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1382998317&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+ide+sata+adapter
and then run file recovery on the hard drive with a file recovery program
Free version for windows: http://www.piriform.com/recuva
Good luck!
Get yourself a Hard Drive Transfer Kit, this little guy has saved me more times than I care to remember! It allows you to plug any HDD (IDE or SATA), into a USB port on any PC, and transfer files as needed. Now the HDD has to be functional for this to work, but it's great for situations just like you are in, best $20 I ever spent!
you could plug it into the computer with an audio cable, but it would just be the analog mixed/mastered tracks. You may need a usb input device like this http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/UFO202
Otherwise it looks like the hard drive itself can be removed from the BOSS and accessed directly on a PC. http://thestudiofiles.com/?p=241
You would need something like this http://www.amazon.com/Vantec-CB-ISATAU2-Supports-2-5-Inch-5-25-Inch/dp/B000J01I1G to connect the internal IDE hard drive to a USB input. Inside should be all the raw WAV recordings.
Yes. That works great. Or if you want to go the external route, get one of these IDE or SATA to USB adapters.
Oh. Then it may be IDE. You'll need to convert 2.5" IDE to USB.
I have one of these and it can convert most things to USB (except mSATA) http://amzn.com/B000J01I1G
If you get that, you'll be able to use it, whatever the drive type is.
This is the truth, I do PC repair as a side-business, this: http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Go-30504-Serial-Adapter/dp/B000UO6C5S - Has made me a savior to people who thought their data was gone forever. Go for this version over the cheaper ones, the power supplies are where they cut cost, and that makes them horribly unstable. I've had no problems with the Cables to Go model.
No you aren't SOL, just order an new laser on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/301841300184?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&amp;ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT and buy an IDE 320GB from Ebay:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nice-320GB-IDE-3-5-HDD-Maxtor-MaXLine-Plus-II-UDMA-133-5400RPM-2MB-5A320J0-/262422608633?hash=item3d199b3af9:g:E1MAAOxyOlhS-~yv
I buy Maxtor II versions, usually around 20 bucks. You can copy your already ESR patched games to the HDD following a tutorial I made which I will link, or you can buy a connectivity kit to directly connect the HDD to your PC via USB and copy the games you download right onto it with winhiip.
Link to cables http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-30504-Serial-Adapter/dp/B000UO6C5S?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
I've boughten cheaper version off of Ebay and it ended up not working. This one was linked in another ps2 thread and I can verify it works great.
Tutorial to put already ESR patched games onto your hdd with hdloader :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FgtG-54x8mQ
I used to use two machines that that had SATA and PATA between them. Any SCSI drives I had where wiped by the servers that housed them. Although these days I only just use whatever machine I have laying around to wipe the SATA drives and use a USB adapter for any other drive types.
Yes it does take a while to wipe drives like this, but It is totally a background operation. It was about 15 minutes of work to setup each run with four drives in a PC and then about 5 minutes afterwards to verify the wipe was complete and document everything. You can speed this up of course by using multiple machines to wipe the drives (just be sure to disconnect system drives so you don't make more work for yourself).
Also one pass is enough *souce for most applications, so that should speed things up even more. We still do a 7 pass wipe, due to a policy I can't get changed...
We use DBAN for all of our wiping needs.
Something like this will also let you transfer the data, you will need to remove the harddrive from the old laptop and plug it into the adaptor and connect the USB to the new laptop.http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-30504-Serial-Adapter/dp/B000UO6C5S/ref=pd_cp_pc_3
Remove the drive and attach it to a working computer using something like this.
Honestly, IDE drives are so out of date you're not going to find any larger products like that which supports it. The best you can hope for is an adapter that does a single IDE drive like this: https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-30504-Serial-Adapter/dp/B000UO6C5S/
Honestly, if it were me, I'd move that data to another drive, and then trash them and get something like this for sata drives: https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Dual-Bay-Function-Tool-Free-FD2002/dp/B00N1KXE9K/
Similar to this: http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-30504-Serial-Adapter/dp/B000UO6C5S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417501902&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+to+ide+adapter
Obviously if you're looking to mount the drives inside you'd have to wire up a hub inside as well.
Could be a dead HDD, or could merely be a loose cable/mount. It should be easy to access the HDDs under your laptop. Check for loose cable and if it still doesn't work remove the drive and check it using a SATA-to-USB like this if you can.
I had a Toshiba that died in a similar fashion.
Get something like this (I think the screws are regular Philips head screws, not Torx) and plug your HDD into another computer.
It's not possible to say whether your HDD is fried or not, but $10 should be able to tell you the answer.
Using something like this will be the best. It makes the HDD hot swappable and you don't have to deal with jumpers.
http://www.amazon.com/IDE-SATA-USB-Cable-Adapter/dp/B000YJBL78
http://www.amazon.com/USB-SATA-5-25-Cable-Adapter/dp/B000YJBL78
cheaper version
Hard drive. The inability to run check disk confirms this. Your hard drive is borked. Add the fact that you can't even boot to your USB stick and it's all the more damning. If you need to be absolutely certain, some computers like Dell have a built in diagnostic, you can test the hard drive there. Or you can simply remove the hard drive and then see if you can boot your Linux USB.
You'll need a new hard drive and have to reinstall windows. With a sata/pata/ide to USB kit you may get lucky enough to be able to recover files from the old hard drive. This is a link to one. http://www.amazon.com/USB-SATA-5-25-Cable-Adapter/dp/B000YJBL78
You could try something like this: http://www.amazon.com/USB-SATA-5-25-Cable-Adapter/dp/B000YJBL78
I use something like this to connect the SSD to the laptop while the HDD is still in it. I then use SuperDuper! to clone the HDD to the SSD. After that finishes you will have exactly the same bits on both devices. Then turn off the computer, take out the HDD, put the SSD in it's place, and turn it back on. Be amazed by how fast it boots.
You can also replace your Super Drive with this. You can then have both the SSD and HDD in your laptop at the same time.
Pull the drive out of the enclosure and get an adapter like this one to make it a slave drive and plug in via a usb cable. You might want to just make sure the adapter is compatible with the size and type of harddrive in the enclosure, and you can shop around for prices and brands, they can vary a little bit as I just grabbed one of the first results for an example.
If you don't find a converter, you can find an adapter to USB where you can copy the files you need off of it and copy them back onto the new drive you bought to put in the laptop.
Here's an example of a pretty cheap generic one off Amazon http://www.amazon.com/Generic-SATA-5-25-Cable-Adapter/dp/B000YJBL78
Just search "IDE to USB" or vice versa.
It will mount the drive as a drive letter in "Computer" (if you're using Windows) and you can browse through the files.
You don't really NEED any kind of transfer cable/device, you can just copy all of your data to a USB Flash/HDD, install Windows on the new SSD, then copy everything back (this will take more time though).
If you ARE going to get cable/device, purchase something like this, it will allow you to use your old HDD like a USB drive (or get a caddy and you can use your old HDD as a permanent USB HDD). If you've done this, you can use the Samsung Migrate software that comes on the CD to move your entire OS from your old HDD to your new SSD - it will take an hour or so, but it means you don't have to reinstall Windows.
If you ARE going to reinstall Windows, you can download your media now for Windows 7, Windows 8.1, or Windows 10
Let me know if you have any issues with any of the above :)
http://support.microsoft.com/en-us/kb/2641432
Follow that guide, see if it can give you a definitive answer on status of your hard drive.
Guide to replacing a hard drive:
------------------------------------------
Buy a new hard drive the same size or bigger. Make sure it has the same connector on it (probably SATA).
Buy/find a usb to SATA controller cable (http://www.amazon.com/USB-SATA-5-25-Cable-Adapter/dp/B000YJBL78 if you find one USB3.0 it will make the process faster).
Find a guide online for making a 1 to 1 backup of your current hard drive to the new one connected on the cable.
Swap your old hard drive out for the new copy you just made.
If you or someone else can do that you can have it working 100% for ~$100. Most shops will charge $50-100 to diagnose, then labor and parts to replace.
the drive is a seperate component from that case, which is broken. using firewire wont damage it in any way
you could could take the thing apart, remove the actual hard drive from that enclosure then use a SATA to USB adapter
Something like a SATA to USB cable.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000YJBL78
It’s an old power connection. Your power supply should have one connection for it
If not, you’ll need some type of adapter to power it like this:
Molex 4 Pin Power to 15 pin SATA Female Adapter Cable - 6" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YJMB5Y/
You can get an adapter that plugs into a standard MOLEX connector that will have a SATA power connector on the other end. Like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Molex-Power-Adapter-Cable-inches/dp/B000YJMB5Y
So initially you will need one of these cables (called a SATA cable):
this
These go into the harddrive and the motherboard. There is no way to put them in incorrectly unless you force it so don't worry there.
In order to get power to the puppy you will need a cable which looks like this in the end:
this
Now you may be lucky enough to have that cable already available, if not you will have to look for a molex cable.
If you have this then you will need a cable like this to bridge the gap.
Why not use one of these?
...huh? I have no idea what you are referring to, but if your card requires a single 8-pin PCIe power connector, and the PSU only has 6 pin connectors, then all you need is a 6-pin to 8-pin adapter.
For your problem I would recommend a new powersupply. The first problem is you physically don't have the correct plugs to support your new GPU, also if you look at the specs for your PSU
>+3.3V@25A; +5V@25A; +12V1@25A; +12V2@25A; [email protected]; [email protected]
Your current powersupply unfortunatley doesn't have a single dedicated 12V rail and EVGA recommends a PSU that has:
>(Minimum recommended power supply with +12 Volt current rating of 42 Amps.)
My advice, get a new quality powersupply that has the appropriate connectors along with a single dedicated 12V rail that offers 42 amps or more. Technically you should be able to use adapters without problems, but I'm always a bit cautious when it comes to power supplies. Since you already have an 6+2 pin you can buy an adapter for the 6-pin to make it 8-pin and see if it works. It would be smart to test this adapter before buying a new PSU which would save you money.
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Express-Power-Adapter-PCIEX68ADAP/dp/B001TK3TJY
Absolutely.
There are converters out there that will convert 6 pins to 8 pins.
For example: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Express-Power-Adapter-PCIEX68ADAP/dp/B001TK3TJY
Any reason not to do a single 6 pin to 8 pin? http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Express-Power-Adapter-PCIEX68ADAP/dp/B001TK3TJY
Don't know if this is what your looking for or if it would work but:
StarTech PCIEX68ADAP 6" PCI Express 6 pin to 8 pin Power Adapter Cable F-M
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812200420
Item#：N82E16812200420
Edit:
Cheaper on Amazon...
StarTech PCI Express 6 pin to 8 pin Power Adapter Cable (PCIEX68ADAP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TK3TJY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rTTwxbD674C8K
Yes, I'm running a 390x 8GB in here which consumes stupid power. It has dual 6 pin power cables for GPU but you can use a 6 pin to 8 pin no problem (that is what I'm doing) because 390x uses 6+8pin
edit: and to more directly answer your question, the motherboard does not have power restrictions on the PCIe slot
this type of adapter: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Express-Power-Adapter-PCIEX68ADAP/dp/B001TK3TJY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468647104&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=6+pin+to+8+pin (which is what hp recommends as well)
You'll need an adapter. http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Express-Power-Adapter-PCIEX68ADAP/dp/B001TK3TJY
It's just 2 extra grounds IIRC, but they are necessary
Just get one of the 6 to 8 pin adapters the 2 extra lines are returns, any recent & decent power supply will handle that over its wires. The 2 x 6 pin to 8 pin adapters are on ebay though if you want to play it safe.
The 970 isn't a super power hungry card and should provide enough power to the 12v rails from your PSU. I'd just get a 6pin to 8 pin adapter.
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Express-Power-Adapter-PCIEX68ADAP/dp/B001TK3TJY
Should be good to go.
You could get an adapter instead of a new power supply.
Edit: Something like this
StarTech PCI Express 6 pin to 8 pin Power Adapter Cable (PCIEX68ADAP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TK3TJY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JhdSyb143C8Q8
Or if you'd rather just get a new supply this is a good option:
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/nB3RsY/seasonic-power-supply-s12ii620bronze
Yes, pretty much.
One caveat however, The GTX 970 has two 6-pin power connectors while the GTX 1070 has a single 8-pin power connector, so make sure your power supply has that connector or buy a 6-pin to 8-pin adapter*.
&#x200B;
*Random example taken from Google, may not be the best option (it seems a bit expensive)
That power supply is not good quality, and I would recommend replacing it before it malfunctions and takes your system with it.
You can convert 2x6pin connectors to 1x8pin connector with this.
get an adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-Power-Adapter-Cable/dp/B001TK3TJY
If you're looking for 4x 2.5" in a single 5.25", you could also get a 3.5" to 2x 2.5" adapter to put in the 3.5" slot instead of a 3.5" drive. I wouldn't worry too much about heat for 2.5" drives from laptops, since they usually don't have too much cooling/airflow in laptops anyway.
i know what you mean. i have an mATX-based budget gaming rig in a big mid-tower with lots of fans and everything. it's only 3 expansion slots worth of height :P though i do have a video card in there so it's not quite so cavernous
jeez, didn't realize the mounting kits were so much. this is the most reasonable one i can find: Silverstone 3.5" to 2x2.5"
If you do not mind putting something together, you could use a 2U chassis like this Norco RPC-2304 or a 4U Norco RPC-431 if you want bigger motherboard options. They are 15.5" deep, so you would have a bit of room to spare.
The other option could be something like a Dell R210ii / R220 with four SSDs or 2.5" drives in it. You can get an adapter that allows you to put 2 2.5" drives in the spot for one 3.5" drive (like this) I believe those are roughly 15 - 16" deep as well.
Where is your existing 2.5inch SSD installed? Looking at 8300 service manual (pages 178, 187), it has a 3.5" internal drive bay. It probably already has a bracket to fit 2.5" SSD. To fit another 2.5" drive, you'd need a 3.5" to 2x2.5" bracket.
Have you opened up the machine and looked at your power cable situation and whether you need a splitter?
I just bought this one for my SSD, and it leaves me room to mount another if/when I purchase that. :)
Dual SSD Mount
This is a 2.5-inch drive, the same form factor as an SSD. So If your case has mounts for SSDs, it can take your laptop hard drive. If it does not, you can get a bay converter. Install that where you usually install standard 3.5 inch desktop hard drives, and that location will now take the smaller laptop hard drive.
SSDs are 2.5" drives, or laptop drive sized. My Intel SSD came with an adapter bracket to fit a regular 3.5" case slot. Looks like your Crucial m4 doesn't come with one, but they cant be too expensive.
But then I didn't need it coz my Fractal design case came with mounting holes for 2.5" drives as well. Most new/good cases do.
Mid tower is generally plenty room for a 6950. But it cant hurt to check actual dimensions before buying. My micro ATX case fit a 9.8" sapphire 6950 2G. Some cases have a removable middle HDD rack if you want to fit something longer.
EDIT:
The best solution is to snag one of these adapters or this one to mount the SSD in the 3.5 in. slot.
But to answer your immediate question... Yes, the SSD will be absolutely fine. I've had them literally taped to the inside of my case before with zero performance issues. They don't move, don't vibrate, and don't care how they're oriented or mounted.
How many watts is your power supply? You could get a Y cable to let you plug both into a single line coming from the PSU.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002N2EHVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dv5oDb278R3VA
Are there no spare sata power cables from your PSU?
Depends on your PSU and distances between drives and the card, but something like this may help:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-Power-Splitter-Cable-Adapter/dp/B002N2EHVQ
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-PYO2SATA-Power-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B002N2EHVQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449283756&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=sata+power+splitter
these are standard stuff found on any pc store for about 1-2€
Any clue if the SATA Power Y Splitters are at similar risk? All the splitter ones I've seen have been molded connectors
Example - Startech PYO2SATA
Here is the psu I would recommend https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CGGOXWQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_y1mDzbA4C4VRW
The psu is worth every cent, it is a small compact one with a lot of power. Make sure to ask Reddit to confirm that it is removable
Check to see if you have a 24 pin or a 10 pin port on your motherboard. I had a 10 pin so I had to get a 24 to 10 pin adapter here is what I used https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WV9Z9QT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_wnw9ArYLBceg7
You may also need a 6 pin adapter which I bought here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Y91B80/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_6zSf6rWjKorTR
No, that's dangerous. Usually a double Molex to PCIE adapter is used, but your PSU doesn't have two Molex. Try this (make sure you have two unused SATA connectors).
Those are PEG 6 pin and PEG 6+2 Pin connectors. You can use adapters like this 6 pin and this 8 pin to get some extra of these if your power supply does not provide any more. Each will consume two SATA power connectors (molex versions are also available). But most of all, make sure your power supply is strong enough to handle those cards and your system.
It's definately not BTX but it also doesn't look standard ATX. I would get this or this and call it a day
This will allow your PSU to turn on without a mobo.
https://www.amazon.com/CRJ-24-Pin-Supply-Jumper-Bridge/dp/B01N8Q0TOE
A lesser known but significant issue is that you don't want to mix and match cables from different power supply brands and sometimes even different power supplies of the same brand, it could possibly fry your HDD. These cables can be tough to find and order separately, so I just use a power splitter extension instead.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0086OGN9E/
Some other things below for fans that I used for mine, but you might already have stuff laying around. You'll also need a molex to 4 pin or you could opt for a fan power supply to wall outlet, only if you don't overload the 2A.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075NPZ94N/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0763FGH6S/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQ42KMV/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071V9CQ5H/
You'll also need to buy 2x SSFF port for the R5 box and your main, plus extra SFF-8088 cables (1m-2m length), this starts $$$ adding up fast unless you can place both devices very close and snake the SFF-8087 forward breakout cables through the R5 case then through the main system case to the HBA unless you have a card with external 8087s. I haven't seen any SFF-8087 forward breakout cables longer than 3.3ft though and you'll probably have these both connected internally so these boxes will have to be right next to each other...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GPD9QEQ/
I didnt search extensively, but I did see a SFF-8088 to sata 6ft cable, but it had no reviews and the title showed 8087(maybe so it gets noticed on search results), but the description was correct as 8088. Depending on your card then this might be an option. This is where nas boxes come in with network connections for farther distances or you invest in all these cables and adaptors so it doesn't look janky with cables snaking in and out of the cases.
No, I didn't mean if your mobo supports the processor. Every processor has a different cooling requirement. So you have to use the correct heatsink and fan with it to ensure that the CPU cools correctly. Your current CPU's sinck and fan may not be suitable for the new CPU. You need to do some research on this.
I got confused about the power part. You just need to buy ONE power cable that can support 2-3 HDD. Something like this one. (And make sure your SMPS can provide enough power).
I don't know of any guides, but for the home user, it's really not expensive or difficult.
What you need, besides HBA in your host machine, is just a bunch of cabling. If you don't have an HBA...cheap and available on ebay.
Just an FYI: Most hard drives don't use a lot of power. (you can look up the max power requirements for specific drives through their manufacturer spec sheet) A 500 watt power supply can often supply the vast majority of that over the 12v rails. Your power supply can run many more disks than it has provisions for, so splitter cables are often the only way to maximize your chassis disk space. As I mentioned before: don't use cables with molded connectors. Cables like https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0086OGN9E - you can see they are plastic and snap around the cables themselves and aren't a molded piece.
The super quick and dirty to expand your storage past your server computer's space or power capabilities is:
GL fellow data hoarder
My computer only has 2 sata power plugs, but I have 8 drives that use sata power. I got a couple of these
https://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E/
You can get one of these, that isn't molded, and just remove the 3.3v wire, if you want to have it handy for this kind of drive, if you dont want to use a molex adaptor
StarTech 4X SATA Power Splitter Adapter Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0086OGN9E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kZE3CbNH7J2V8
The 3.3v wire is the one closest to the "L" on the plug part.
With this kind, you can always keep the wire, and put it back in later if you need it.
You can buy this kind and take the plugs off. And add them to your existing wires too! That's how I made mine that are exactly the right length for all 6 drives in my case. You just need a small flathead and patience. Or a normal punch down tool
here you go
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=3JQ9KGX4KQGAF3PX0Y42
use splitters. https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E
That makes it a bit more difficult. I would need to see a picture of the inside of your computer.
Basically you are looking to see if there is an additional power cable in the case that looks like this. It should be attached to the chord that is attached to your SSD that is already in the computer.
If there is an extra power port already available then you will just need to buy an additional data cable to install the new HDD.
Here is a pretty simple brake down on how to do the rest. I would watch a YouTube video as well to see the whole process in action. You will need to buy some screws to secure the HDD to the slots in the computer. Ask a local computer store, they will be able to help.
It is basically close to plug and play, like an external drive, but a few extra steps and it is internal.
What wattage is your PSU? SSDs don't take much power, so you could probably use a splitter. Also, don't your SATA power cables have multiple connectors on each cable? The ones that came with my PSU look like the ones in this picture:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E/ref=pd_lpo_147_lp_img_4?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=MXNGKRM3TBJEM0N5YYM4
You can get SATA power splitters; ex: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E
That power supply has a whopping 6 SATA outputs. You should be able to use 2 or 3 of these with no problem: StarTech.com 4 Outlet SATA Power Splitter Adapter Cable - SATA Splitter Cable - SATA Adapter - Black - SATA Splitter - (PYO4SATA)
I would be hesitant to chain them all together into an 11x cable. Is there some particular reason why you need a single cable for all your drives?
You want to get well made ones. Look for brand names, not the cheapest you can find. The problem ones are the really cheap ones, which are characterized by molded SATA connectors - the wires terminate inside the molded SATA power plug. [These ones are very unreliable.](
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-3-Pack-Molex-Power/dp/B00STNUB04/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3D7AP1AE1TFLT&amp;keywords=molex+to+sata+power+adapter&amp;qid=1555423096&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=molex+to+sata&amp;sr=8-3)
Edit: I use "cheap" too much here, there are good inexpensive ones such as I link below, so don't use price as a rating.
The good ones sort of clamp onto the wires. or have crimped pins.
Here's a video that shows what to look for: https://youtu.be/TataDaUNEFc
Not saying you should do it, just showing you you can get up to 4 way splitters: https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-B5196-Power-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B0086OGN9E
Make sure it's a crimped one, not molded. The QC issues with molded connectors have let to shorts/burns/fires for people in the past.
Example of a crimped one.
Example of molded.
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-108793-12-Inch-15-Pin-Female/dp/B009GUL5CM/
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-108794-24-Inch-15-Pin-Female/dp/B009GULFJ0/
Monoprice 108794 24-Inch 4-Pin Molex Male to 4 15-Pin SATA II Female Power Cable Net Jacket https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B009GULFJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hLI1CbGQKJFPP
I'm assuming you're going Molex to SATA.
Good to know. Been running these adapters for 3+ years now, but will inspect them.
Edit: these are the ones I have. Monoprice is usually trustworthy. Monoprice 108794 24-Inch 4-Pin Molex Male to 4 15-Pin SATA II Female Power Cable Net Jacket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GULFJ0/
molex to single SATA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00STNUB04/
Molex to 4 SATA
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GULFJ0/
I bought this Monoprice one last year and it's been working just fine for me for nearly a year now.
Just don't buy the 99¢ special and you'll be fine.
Yep, it would. I have an M1 with that exact same drive, it works fine.
Remember to get a slimline SATA power adapter for it.
So, this is going to be bastardized as all hell. Assuming you don't want to bother keeping the DVD drive, you need a Slimline SATA to SATA adapter to convert the power leg to the right size, then a female-to-female SATA Power cable in order to get from that adapter to the cable you've got.
If you want to keep the DVD drive.... ah hell. Don't want to keep the DVD drive. That'll add a splitter to the female-female and another (but reversed) SATA to Slimline SATA Adapter.
And, to be clear, every single one of those power junctions is a spot that is likely to catch fire on you. Make sure you can keep an eye on this unholy abomination every so often. If you haven't heard about that, google "melted sata cable" and you too can start worrying about how you hooked up your desktop's drives.
A few comments:
Just get an adapter and buy the laptop part. You might also need a slimline sata adapter.
Around 20 days, I also replaced the front fan to help with the noise. I did need this for the DVD drive to work:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009JXKQ9O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009JXKQ9O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I've got one similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Drive-Adapter-Converter-External/dp/B00BIE996S/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485535450&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=usb+sata+ide
Works well.
You'll need a sata to usb adapter. Find one on Amazon and buy it. No formatting will be needed. For the future, ALWAYS backup your data.
https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Drive-Adapter-Converter-External/dp/B00BIE996S
One of these should be what you need. Also, it looks like there is some type of adapter on the end. See if that comes off, as it looks like it should.
https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Drive-Adapter-Converter-External/dp/B00BIE996S/
Something like this is sort of the swiss army knives to read any type drive. Don't have this product, just showing you what you are looking for.
https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Drive-Adapter-Converter-External/dp/B00BIE996S/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1550609721&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ide+to+usb3+with+power&psc=1
&#x200B;
I don't know for sure but your desktop probably has a 3.5 inch SATA drive. There are adapter kits which allow you to do both.
You can remove the old IDE drive and connect to another computer with a USB adapter, like this:
https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Drive-Adapter-Converter-External/dp/B00BIE996S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1543411607&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=ide+to+sata+usb
A kit like this should work:https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Drive-Adapter-Converter-External/dp/B00BIE996S/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539560101&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=usb+hard+drive+adapter
I think you'll find that if you pop open the enclosure, it's just a regular old hard drive in here. Stick that bad boy in a desktop you have floating around somewhere and presto.
You also might need something like this if you don't have a desktop.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BIE996S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lXGBzbSD84EHJ
So it looks like an old laptop PATA connector.
Option 1: if your desktop motherboard has a connector and you have a ribbon cable for it, go ahead and hook it up directly.
Option 2: Get an adapter example and hook up the drive to a USB connector on a machine you want to review the data on.
Complication 1: while unlikely, if the drive is encrypted you may have some challenges accessing the data.
Complication 2: The drive may be degraded to the point where reading data is dicey.
Complication 3: Infection. Make sure your host system's anti virus is up-to-date, and run MalwareBytes in parallel prior to initial connection if you're feeling paranoid.
For extra credit, wipe the drive when you're done. It might have personal information that's still relevant and frankly it's good practice. Check sourceforge for a good wipe utility like DBAN.
Something like this will do the job for a one-time data recovery. You can get fancier docks if it's something you do on a regular basis. There's even the option of getting an empty drive enclosure to make it into a permanent external drive (but desktop drives will require an external power supply so it's not really portable).
You'll need a second Mac. Take out the harddrive, plug it into this converter and plug the converter into the second Mac. Then you should be able to back up the data. Always backup the data.
https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Drive-Adapter-Converter-External/dp/B00BIE996S/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=usb+to+sata&qid=1572453990&sr=8-7
Like the other commenter mentioned, a usb adapter is fantastic for these things. I kept something like https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Drive-Adapter-Converter-External/dp/B00BIE996S in my bag for a long time when I was frequently doing various recovery things; I don't really anymore but it's still come in handy at home for projects. It's super-cheap and covers basically any hard drive you're going to encounter in the wild. The power supply is a nice touch too.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-LP4SATAFM12-12-Inch-Molex-Adapter/dp/B00GK8SYCW
You're using these right? Toss them in the trash.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-LP4SATAFM12-12-Inch-Molex-Adapter/dp/B00GK8SYCW
Sata-Power to Molex adapter.
Here’s an example
https://www.amazon.com/12in-Molex-Power-Cable-Adapter/dp/B00GK8SYCW/ref=asc_df_B00GK8SYCW/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=167140037427&amp;hvpos=1o1&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=11633936747810606803&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9018719&amp;hvtargid=pla-338127622764&amp;psc=1
Would this work?
So I'm assuming that this is your personal laptop. There are two things you can do
1- Take out the hard drive and put it in another pc then transfer what you need over. You will not be able to boot from this drive so you will need to be able to plug this in along with the hard drive that runs the pc you are using to transfer files. (Use sata cables and a sata power cable)
2- If you don't have access to another pc where you can plug the hard drive in using sata cables buy one of these: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485322519&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=hdd+to+usb. Use that to transfer it to a different pc.
Both of these options are assuming that you have another pc to use.
First of all back up the data BEFORE you run any diagnostics on the drive.
Diagnostics essentially runs a stress test and can push the drive into unrecoverable territory.
If it has dual drives then the data on the larger HDD may be fine.
(Some manufacturers install the OS on the larger HDD though...)
Buy a Sata to usb adapter.
Like this
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483853961&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=sata+usb+adapter
Plug it into another PC to recover the data.
Something like this will do the trick
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB3S2SAT3CB-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
You can use any sata to usb converter. For example this would work https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_lp_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=N0E5KKN95A4T4RFWQR06
Or this if you want to spend more money and not get a case: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB3S2SAT3CB-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00HJZJI84&amp;pd_rd_r=HM89910NCVYQFQV4AYAE&amp;pd_rd_w=P4XbG&amp;pd_rd_wg=OUSIV&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=HM89910NCVYQFQV4AYAE
There are various cloning softwares (and hardware) that would make an identical version of your current install on the new SSD, it would be easiest if your laptop has two HDD bays, else you will likely need to spend at least a little bit of money on a USB to sata adapter, which would be cheaper than a windows key.
There's an adapter on there already as part of the tray. Take the drive out of the tray, it looks like it'll have regular SATA data and power connectors, and something like this would work.
I just found out there are SATA to USB 3.0 cables. So the Samsung 860 Evo is SATA III 2.5 and it doesn't look like there is any circuitry exposed except where the adapter would go. So if I wanted to use it as external I could just plug it in with this
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84 , format the drive and it's ready to go? Could it be that easy?
> The enclosure is this: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-NGFF-Aluminum-Enclosure-EC-M2MC/dp/B0765D6NJV and the SSD is the Western Digital Blue 500GB M.2 SATA.
The traditional 2.5" version of the drive is basically the m.2 version but already inside a case, you could save $10 by getting the traditional 2.5" version and a usb/stata cable:
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBZ8YH/
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/
About the same size as the enclosure as well.
> will it be able to achieve the same speed as the SSD would perform if it was used as an internal one OR will it significantly underperform?
It will either perform exactly the same, or nearly the same. Source: I am using this setup for my backup drive, it's several times faster than the hdd I was using before.
In my expirence at least Samsung and Crucial do. You might also want one of these adapters to actually do the cloning.
or an adapter if you prefer
https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468421426&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=usb+3+hdd+adapter
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-USB-Cable-USB3S2SAT3CB/dp/B00HJZJI84 or similar if it's a standard 2.5" hard drive
This is my setup:
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E500B-AM/dp/B00OBRE5UE/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509571940&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=samsung%2Bevo&amp;dpID=41fw65-8tpL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch&amp;th=1
and cable:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=pd_bxgy_147_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00HJZJI84&amp;pd_rd_r=20TGCA5AEN9VTN3KPA5J&amp;pd_rd_w=T8XnN&amp;pd_rd_wg=ee8nu&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=20TGCA5AEN9VTN3KPA5J
You can take out the hard drive from the laptop and get a SATA to USB adapter and just connect the old HDD as a usb device and copy paste whatever you need.
Also why do you capitalize every new word in the title?
You can purchase a docking station/adapter depending on the SSD's interface. Examples {no endorsement(s) implied}:
Then it is pretty much plug and play, providing the formatting on the SSD is something that your OS recognizes.
Generally speaking, you should be able to plug the old SSD back into your current system as another SATA device depending on how many you currently have connected/how many your mobo supports, but without your system spec info my statement may be fallacious.
edit for linkage
There's no real straight forward way I can think of to do this without an enclosure or a USB to SATA adapter.
If you don't care about retaining your personal files or settings, why don't you just create a bootable USB OS X installer to install OS X on the SSD once it's put in the Mac Mini? Then reinstall Office from the install disk or downloaded installer (assuming you still have the license key).
Well at least getting a old hard drive out of a laptop is easy enough, all you need is one of these suckers
That error usually means something is going wrong with the hard drive itself. With any luck it is just a corrupt file system and can be repaired, worse case however is an actual mechanical failure in the hard drive.
What you want to do is pull it from the laptop and using something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84, plug it into another computer and see if you can access the files. If you can, save the files to that computer.
Next open command prompt and run a check disk, it’ll look of file system errors and fix them if it can. It will also look for physical damage to the hard disks and display them on the final output log as “bad sectors” if it has bad sectors, trash the hd, they will never get better and will only get worse until the drive completely dies.
The command for check disk you should use is:
Chkdsk D: /f /r /xReplace the “D” with whatever it’s drive letter is in the computer
You could get something as simple as this to access the drives. https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/
Edit: That adapter will only work for laptop drives. You will need something with more power for a 3.5" desktop hard drive. Something like this fore example https://www.amazon.com/UNITEK-Converter-Adapter-Cable-Drive/dp/B00GLL41MA/
Or if you want a more permanent solution you could get an enclosure. Which is basically the same thing but in a box. Just make sure you get the right size for your particular hard drive.
Edit: To answer your other question. I'm not really sure what you mean by "the Bookmark", but in theory everything should still be on the drives if you know where to look.
Remove the hard drive from the computer. After it's out, you can connect it to your computer either through SATA internally, or though a SATA to USB connector like this one.
StarTech USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable w/ UASP - SATA to USB 3.0 Converter for SSD/HDD - Hard Drive Adapter Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0qh1xbNRS6B7E
I've used this before for this very same thing. Worked great for me! Assuming the drive is in serviceable condition, of course.
That special cord is cheap and is just a sata to USB adapter like so StarTech.com SATA to USB Cable - USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA III Hard Drive Adapter - External Converter for SSD/HDD Data Transfer (USB3S2SAT3CB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RU1iDbHZ5T79J
I believe on the older Macs target disk mode only works over firewire. So you'd need a firewire adapter for the new Mac if you want to connect it that way. Really the easiest way is to just get a SATA to USB adapter. But if you don't want to do that and the old Mac is working except for the screen/keyboard you could just plug in an external display and keyboard and network them together.
If you want something without an external case you could just get a cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB3S2SAT3CB-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523015274&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=sata+to+usb
A trick to this if your chassis is out of HDD / SSD ports is to use a USB to Sata converter and then use a sata SSD.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.N5EDb9WDTKRB
Buy a SanDisk or Samsung. Don't buy Pny or Kingston. Look at your current disk USAGE and get the appropriate size for that. If you have a 1tb and have 820gb free, you just need to buy a 240gb SSD.
Step 2. Order a USB to sata cable for $10
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_xKTEDbXSJQ8TM
Step 3. Use the free version of mini part tool to migrate to SSD.
I looked up your model and I've found support threads where people are saying mSATA multiple times, so if it's mSATA you'd need something like this that would allow you to install it in a 2.5" bay.
If it's M.2 you might need something like this. I don't know for a fact that this adapter is adjustable to the different length M.2 cards, but this one is judging by the pictures.
Either way, if it's mSATA or M.2 SATA an adapter will allow it to work in a desktop, you'll just need to make sure you know which one you have and order the appropriate adapter.
It is a SATA m.2, it's a MX300. What I meant is that if I'd have bought a SATA interface MX300 rather than an m.2 interface I'd be able to get another NVMe m.2 SSD later and keep my current one too.
If I upgraded now, I'd have 2 m.2 SSDs, and only 1 m.2 slot. I'm not sure how easy it would be to get a m.2 to sata interface, not looked into it really.
edit : Just had a look, and converters are pretty cheap (£15), so it looks like it'd be pretty painless to upgrade anyway.
It's extremely easy to pull a hard drive out of most laptops. You can buy SATA to USB cables on amazon for under $10. You can easily with a screw driver remove the HDD and get all your files back with the SATA to USB cable.
This is the one I just recently bought for myself, works great!
http://smile.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SSHD/dp/B011M8YACM?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
I bought a 500GB Samsung Evo SSD card the other day along with a new GPU. The new GPU I have installed and updated and working awesomely however I have a few problems with the SSD.
I have the Samsung CD which comes with the Data Migration software however I don't have the leads to connect it - will this or this work? But would that mean the SSD will be external to me case? In which case would it benefit me to just get this?
If I get the latter will that enable me to transfer data from my current HDD (which is staying inside my PC)? Or will I have to get one of the first SATA cables, transfer data and then install it internally?
Thanks for your help!
No, it's firmware for overburning DVDs to utilize more than the capacity listed.
I used this cable, and made it so I can easily unplug it if I want to connect a hard drive temporary. I thought about fixing the cable in place with the design but I thought removable was better.
Sabrent USB 3.0 to SSD / 2.5-Inch SATA I/II/IIIHard Drive Adapter (EC-SSHD) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_k6roDbM2GSSWZ
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SSHD/dp/B011M8YACM
All you need is one of these and then plug the thing in your Xbox like a usb stick
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SSHD/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523884458&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=sata+to+usb
I use that for reading hard drives. Suggested in another comment as well.
If you clone it, you can use dd on a Linux live USB. You either need an external drive with at least 128GB of free space, or a SATA to USB adaptor to plug the new drive into. (such as this: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SSHD/dp/B011M8YACM) Once you've cloned it, you have to expand the partition to make use of the extra space. This can be done with GParted, also on a Linux live USB.
Wow, I just looked up that Xbox branded SSD. It's a really bad deal; I feel like Seagate is counting on console players not realizing how much SSD prices have dropped over the last few months.
Almost $100 for 500 GB is nuts.
For comparison, I paid $80 for a 1 TB Crucial MX500, which probably one of the top one or two non-Samsung SATA SSDs
I'd suggest OP look for SATA SSD deals on /r/BuildaPCSales then buy a SATA to USB adapter for less than $10 on Amazon.
Example of what I'm talking about. Plug one end into the SSD and one end into your Xbox.
If you have an old SSD and a console that has USB 3.0, you can pick up one of these and just plug the bare drive in. Works great on my X.
Sabrent USB 3.0 to SSD / 2.5-Inch SATA I/II/IIIHard Drive Adapter (EC-SSHD) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011M8YACM/
I agree if the budget allows that, but this has a USB adapter because RPi lack SATA. SATA->USB adapter cable isn't that expensive although slightly more bulky than WD's solution.
You'll want something like this:
or
And you'll need cloning software. Crucial and Samsung have cloning software that you can use for free when cloning to their drives:
If you haven't yet purchased an SSD I'd recommend the Samsung 850 Evo.
------------
You'll also want to checkout a site like ifixit.com or simply lookup youtube videos on how to go about opening up your laptop.
No worries.
If you just want to do a full reinstall of windows you take out the HDD, put in the SSD, and install windows from scratch.
If you want to clone from the HDD to the SDD you need software and either a USB to SATA cable or a drive enclosure.
If you go with a M.2 you will insert it and use the cloning software to clone your HDD to the M.2 drive.
Something else to look into, if you have a smaller SSD and larger secondary drive, is to move the search index, Windows temp files, and such onto the larger, slower drive. Doing this frees up the precious space on the M.2 drive while reducing the overall read/writes.
Personally I would save up for the M.2 drive, make that primary, and keep the HDD as a secondary.
Samsung Data Migration software is free with a Samsung drive so you just need a dock. Its also fast and easy.
Samsung download page
EDIT: Also this USB to SATA is EXCELLENT for SSD transfers:
Sabrent USB 3.0 to SSD / 2.5-Inch SATA Hard Drive Adapter
Second edit: You said you have a dock lol use that with the Samsung software and you are solid.
I have 5 of these:
https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Tool-Free-External-Lay-Flat-Enclosure/dp/B00A5323NO
They'll accept both 3.5 and 2.5 drives.
I have one of these and it works well:
Sabrent USB 3.0 to SSD / 2.5-Inch SATA Hard Drive Adapter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011M8YACM
Having stuff like this makes cloning drives easy, I use Paragon hard disk manager suite 14 but I'd imagine that Macrium Reflect or Clonezilla would work just as well.
I may have to invest in one of these to have all my bases covered!
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-2-5in-Adapter-Converter-SAT32M225/dp/B00ITJ7U20
> Is the SSD with my OS toast?
Maybe, maybe not. Assuming you can't just plug into a SATA port in another PC: do you have, or at least have access to, another computer, running Windows, that you can use, with USB 3.0 ports? If so, try this guy in one, with the SSD:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SSHD/dp/B011M8YACM/
Also, how does it bootloop? If it gets to the Windows starting animations, or Windows 7 bottom loading bar, then the SSD is likely fine.
As old as the system is, my bet is on age-related RAM, PSU, or mobo failure.
I would create a clone of that disk immediately, using clonezilla, if possible. Also is the drive showing up in disk management. Also use this teardown guide to make sure the hdd isnt loose. Also use a external sata adapter https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SSHD/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500618312&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=usb+to+sata, to make sure its not the sata port on the motherboard that is failing. If it still doesnt work the sata connector on drive is likely failing which means you need a new drive.
If you have a desktop PC that you know has an available SATA data port and power connector, you could temporarily install the drive to get the data off of it. You might have to manually set the boot order in the BIOS so that your computer boots from its hard drive and not the laptop drive.
Alternatively, you could get a SATA to USB adapter, regardless of what computer you have. I have this $10 Sabrent one, although there are much cheaper ones available like the one /u/jamvanderloeff linked.
Do you have a 5.25" disc drive laying around? If so, I use
one of these.Just buy an adapter from Sata to USB, and it will work like a charm.
https://www.amazon.fr/Sabrent-Adaptateur-Optimisé-support-EC-SSHD/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=sr_1_3?__mk_fr_FR=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&crid=2IJCI7Y0UJWBU&keywords=sata+to+usb&qid=1570130783&sprefix=sata+to+%2Caps%2C205&sr=8-3
Get this!
you don't necessarily need to use the software that came with your SSD, but I guess it wouldn't hurt. I see that your laptop has USB 3.0 ports which means the transfer process shouldn't take more than 20 minutes. Just follow the instructions and it should be painless. I use Macrium Reflect, but use whatever program you feel most comfortable with.
Sometimes people report that their computer isn't recognizing the SSD connected to the USB port. That is usually fixed by running disk manager and the computer will now discover the SSD connected via USB. (press the windows key + R, then type in diskmgmt.msc)
Once your finished cloning your HDD to SSD, remove the HDD, pop in the SSD and you should be good to go. In some cases you may have to manually set the new drive as the boot drive in your BIOS, but that laptop is fairly new so I doubt you would have to do so.
Why not just pull the HDD/SSD out and connect it to another computer?
Go to resnet, ask nicely, and they will probably do it for you if you bring them an external hdd or big enough flash drive.
$9.99 Sabrent USB 3.0 to SSD / 2.5-Inch SATA Hard Drive Adapter [Optimized For SSD, Support UASP SATA III] (EC-SSHD) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5u5jybMFGDXEM
Yea you can get a wire like this.
Sabrent USB 3.0 to SSD / 2.5-Inch SATA Hard Drive Adapter [Optimized For SSD, Support UASP SATA III] (EC-SSHD) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vSJmybWWV43KP
Or an external enclosure like this
AUKEY 2.5" Hard Drive Enclosure, USB 3.0 External Disk Case for SATA HDD and SSD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J3NM642/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eUJmybVD73H0B
Of course!! Ahh yes, I forgot the most important part, haha. Sorry :) Get the below cable as well and once you have all your parts, download the free trial of Carbon Copy Cloner to the current HDD (link below - no payment/credit card needed and you get full application access during the 30 days i.e. no features are disabled). You'll use the cable to attach the SSD via USB and then open CCC and clone the current drive (instructions below). It can take a bit since the HDD is so slow so just let it run. Once it's done then you can start the steps from the IFIXIT articles. You can keep the current HDD as a backup if you'd like.
Let me know if you have any other questions!
Cable - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011M8YACM/
CCC - https://bombich.com/
CCC Instructions - https://bombich.com/kb/ccc5/i-want-clone-my-entire-hard-drive-new-hard-drive-or-new-machine
It'll work fine. Just need an adapter/housing for SATA to USB. Like this.
Crucial SSD 500 Gb: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0786QNS9B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
USB to SSD SATA adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011M8YACM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And the YouTube video: https://youtu.be/-LB9TqfQrsA
Edit: Forgot to mention the software I used: https://www.disk-partition.com/free-partition-manager.html
Edit: Some SSDs will only work in PCs, but if you stick to getting what's called a SATA type SSD you will be fine :)
I was having issues with multiple microSD cards unmounting themselves. Annoying. I went with Samsung 250GB SSD and this $10 adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011M8YACM/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It's more storage than I need but oh well but it just works.
I put a $70 antenna:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CXQO00K/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
in my attic and bought an HDHomerun Connect. I get free OTA HD with DVR. I just used an old 1.5TB USB2.0 drive for the recordings. So far so good!
It's this one I got from Amazon - Sabrent USB to SSD; it's only a USB 3.0 though; idk if that will affect the speed greatly or not.
I have a server motherboard with SAS -> SATA ports so I can plug in one of these and get 4x SATA ports from one port. For power, I use these power splitters that allow me to neatly add power to a column of HDDs. I run one of the splitters per power line from the PSU. Before I had a server motherboard, I used this PCIE SATA card.
I bought these, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012BPLW08/
It was 2.5 and I used this it will also do 3.5 and ide. It is powered so you don’t have to worry about the rpi powering it
https://www.amazon.com/Vantec-SATA-IDE-Adapter-CB-ISA225-U3/dp/B01E7EPKUO
should work on a parallel ATA drive
what? no. any shop will be able to get the pictures off.
This device will do either SATA or IDE.
btw - if all you're doing is checking whats on the drives (which is what your original post said), the Vantec adapter is way cheaper. If you're concerned about the transfer speed (not sure why, unless you're connecting SSDs), there's also a USB 3.0 version for $35. It doesn't look as nice as a dock, and I wouldn't use it long-term or anything, but if you just need to check drive contents and copy a few files, it's perfectly fine for that.
Dang, sorry. If you still wanna try pulling the hard drive something like this would probably do the trick.
I would just go with replacing the hard drive with a SSD of the same size. Get tricky with other stuff later
You can use SuperDuper, or Carbon copy Cloner or something else to clone the drive.
Get a USB data adapter like this https://www.amazon.com/SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable-Black/dp/B07FDTY299
Attach the SSD to that, run the cloning software and copy to the SSD. Replace HDD with SSD (look it up on (ifixit).
Edit: you need a 2.5" SSD.
https://www.amazon.com/SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable-Black/dp/B07FDTY299
^^ like one of those? see if your hard drive is compatible with it otherwise i'm sure there are related ones that could be compatible with your drive.
Yeah works. but it needs to be sata3 to usb 3.
I used one myself to make a Backup of my laptop drive to a SSD.
https://www.amazon.com/SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable-Black/dp/B07FDTY299/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549621527&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=sata+to+usb&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41azTNqEFdL&amp;ref=plSrch
Then This should be what you want.
or for higher powered drives that cannot be powered through USB you will need something like This
You can get a cheap USB-to-SATA adapter and then clone your current drive to the new one. If cloning a Hackintosh system drive, you'll need to copy (drag-and-drop works) the EFI folder from the original drive into the EFI partition on the new drive, as the cloning softwares ignore EFI contents. I use SuperDuper for cloning/backup, but Carbon Copy Cloner is popular as well.
Edited for botched typing while distracted.
There is a way to work around that depending on how much work you want to put in.
This guide shows you how to get the SATA drive out of the 360 HDD, and once that is open I imagine you shouldn't have a hard time finding the files. You can plug it in directly to your computer if you have the SATA slots available or use a tool like this to access the drive.
Here is a guide on locating original xbox saves once you hook your drive up.
Why do you think that? Didn't see anything on the Amazon listing to indicate this, and it's been working fine so far.
Not saying you're wrong necessarily, btw. Do you have a better alternative?
So the Aorus RX580 8GB is the best one for my build?
&nbsp;
I plan on continuing to use my laptop and I wanted to upgrade my laptops HDD size too so I don't want to install my laptop drive as well. Someone else said this is what I would have to do to transfer the contents of my laptop to my new HDD
> get the parts you have listed for your new build
> take a screenshot(s) of you Programs and Features window to remember all the crap you installed
> grab this 10 dollar adapter
> when your parts come, use that adapter to copy everything you need off your old system onto your new 1T hdd (docs, pics, video, downloads, steam games, etc)
> install a fresh windows 10 onto your new machine with just the ssd plugged in, after you have windows installed add the 1T hdd to your build and all your files will be there
> install previously referenced crap on new pc
>and then you're back to 100% without cloning errors
Is this the right way to do it?
Describe a bit more about the unit you want. Is it supposed to be a PC of its own? In that case one would get an ITX case that fits three 5.25" drives, like https://www.amazon.com/iStarUSA-S-35-Compact-5-25-Inch-mini-ITX/dp/B00DJ7T3YK. If you want something that connects to other PCs I'd glue three external drives together and just use USB. And yes, connecting those to an USB hub is a good idea (maybe an USB 3.1 Gen 2 hub to avoid any bandwidth issues).
If you have to use the internal drives without a PC of their own I'd get three of https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ + a powered USB 3.0 hub like https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-USB-Power-Adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80/.
But I haven't build something like that yet. When I still used optical disk writers there was always the issue of having to keep the system calm to not produce write errors. I'm not 100% certain having three connected to a hub won't be without issues - but it's not too expensive to try out.
Okay, so I dug my adapter out and it is an older style adapter, not SATA 3, so it won't work with the HDD I took out of my Pro when I upgraded to a 2TB drive. Sorry!
However, I did a bit of digging, and this cable on Amazon has reviews from people who say they bought it specifically to work with an external HDD on their PS4 and had no issues.
BUT, I would recommend simply buying an enclosure. This enclosure is actually cheaper than the cable I linked above, and your HDD will look neater and stay cleaner if it's inside a case instead of having a bare drive connected to the PS4's USB ports.
This is the exact enclosure I am using right now with the PS4 Pro's 1TB drive. It costs a bit more, but I like that it includes a place to plug in an AC Adapter in case the HDD you're using needs more power than the PS4's USB ports can provide.
I'm sorry I have outdated cables and couldn't test that for you after all, but I hope you find something that will work for you. Good luck!
This is all you need.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549405700&sr=8-3&keywords=hard+drive+to+usb+adapter
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Yes, anything connected through a USB will just act like removable media/flash drive.
Either a Docking Station or SATA to USB cable should suffice. They both do the same thing, but the station has the ability to power up 3.5" drives.
Your husband probably already knows, but instead of opening the laptop back up twice, consider something like this.
Would this work? https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=pd_lpo_147_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=R62HJS8RW2R53CPMX0TN
I'd return it but the cost will be $8 to return a $20 items i might as well keep it for when i get a new case but for the mean time.
No enclosure, but would give you significantly faster speeds for close to the same price. Also it's easier to move (no need for external power.)
Idea for a combo:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486254856&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=sata+usb3
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-120GB-SDSSDA-120G-G26-Newest-Version/dp/B01F9G414U/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486254905&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=128gb+ssd
The disk that came with the SSD is probably a data migration tool to help you make the process easy by directly transferring the files to the SSD from the HDD. In this case, you do need a SATA to USB connector (https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486406967&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=sata%2Bto%2Busb&amp;th=1) in order to transfer the files (Windows OS will be included so you don't have to have a separate install). The following video is great in telling you how to go through the process of using the Samsung Data Migration tool (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_Mu5TuXgXo) (plug in the SATA adapter to the SSD and computer, then use the software, then remove the old HDD after you turned off the computer, then put in the new SSD in and you should be good to go [remember to read through the description box for the YouTube videos I link because there is IMPORTANT information there, especially the video on using the Samsung Data Migration tool]). Good luck!
If you have another computer you can make an El Cap USB installer and reinstall it from there.
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To get your data you can get a SATA-USB external adapter, pull the drive out of the Macbook, and copy your data to another computer.
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Adapter:
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https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
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Same thing but a full enclosure:
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_bAqpP1_cr_x__w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=CRVP86GZMSG9D9WY4W3X&pf_rd_r=CRVP86GZMSG9D9WY4W3X&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=4f3a3e36-c598-581a-bdda-6635ea8feafa&pf_rd_p=4f3a3e36-c598-581a-bdda-6635ea8feafa&pf_rd_i=160354011
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Sorry for your loss. As the other user mentioned for the PC you should be Able to remove the hard drive from it , (generally located for easy access by removing a few screws on the underside of the laptop.) A USB to Sata adapter cable would make this a simple process, you simply plug the hard drive into the sata adapter and the usb into another PC. It essentially enables you to read the drive like a flash drive. This will only work providing the drive isn’t encrypted, by encrypted I don’t mean the windows password, I mean something like BitLocker. But it’s certainly worth a shot. Good luck.
This is what you need.
https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-TS256GSSD230S-Information-256GB-Solid/dp/B01MEGCFEP/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538495909&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=256+gb+transcend+ssd
And this cable adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84?aaxitk=xb.8k-asJnXFbTJHRCBvCQ&amp;pd_rd_i=B00HJZJI84&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_p=54dc821a-0937-4e6f-9da9-f8dd5443145d&amp;pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&amp;pf_rd_t=301&amp;pf_rd_i=startech+usb+3.0+to+2.5%22+sata+iii+hard+drive+adapter+cable+with+uasp&amp;hsa_cr_id=2065800560301&amp;sb-ci-n=productDescription&amp;sb-ci-v=StarTech.com%20USB%203.0%20to%202.5%E2%80%9D%20SATA%20III%20Hard%20Drive%20Adapter%20Cable%20w%2F%20UASP%20%E2%80%93%20SATA%20to%20USB%203.0%20Converter%20for%20SSD%2FHDD%20-%20Hard%20Drive%20Adapter%20Cable
That's what I have on my xbox one and it works perfectly. Sorry about the long links.
EDIT: Sorry, didn't see you already had the SSD.
Have you tried something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
You will need to convert the drive from SATA to USB. Some thing like this would work. Then it will act just like an external drive. From there you can install whatever you want on it. Just set the BIOS to boot from USB and you should be good.
You just need a simple SATA to USB cable to connect to computer.
Atombios is the firmware that interfaces directly with your video card. Either your firmware is corrupt, or the video card (most likely the RAM on it) is borked.
It's a T400, so that's pretty old. RAM does fail, but I believe it's more likely that your firmware is corrupted and re-installing it would fix the problem.
Theoretically, you should be able to boot from a LiveCD/USB and get into a normal desktop environment. From there, back up your files to a USB disk or a network location before doing anything else, then (to keep the process simple) try to re-install Linux.
However, it's possible that even booting from a LiveCD/USB won't work if it's a RAM issue (RAM is shared between the CPU and GPU on these), so in that case you'll need to remove the drive from your laptop to back it up to another computer.
If you have access to a computer with a USB3.0 interface, you can pull your hard drive out of the T400 and use one of these to plug that drive into your other computer. They make versions of this that don't require USB3.0, if you want to go on a little search for it. I used to use these pretty frequently back in the day to back up client hard drives.
The HDD pic you linked looks like a like a caddy. Have you removed the drive from the plastic housing? If you have removed post a pic of the connections.
Considering the age of the laptop my guess is the drive inside the caddy uses a 2.5" 44pin IDE type interface. If it does, you have some options to access the data.
You can use this: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-INCH-Drive-Converter-EC-AHDD/dp/B0758RP5V8?th=1
Or this adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Laptop-Drive-Adapter-Female-Connect/dp/B0185LC04Y
Combined with this adapter: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/
You could also just use the 2nd adapter and connect it to a PC's internal SATA connectror.
Looks like normal 2.5" SATA connectors to me. You might also need this cable to transfer your old files from the HDD to the SSD.
Yes, you need to either buy a USB to SATA cable or an external hard drive dock. The cable is for a temporary connection while a hard drive dock will allow you to install any 2.5" hard drive / SSD or a 3.5" hard drive for extra storage and is a more permanent solution. The Samsung SSD comes with cloning software.
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Here's an example of a USB to SATA cable for $11 which is for 2.5" SATA drives and USB 3.0 USB-A).
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542081067&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+to+sata+adapter
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Here's an example of a dual bay hard drive dock which allows you to insert 2.5" or 3.5" drives and supports drives up to 8TB for $34. It seems the make and model I purchased earlier this year has been discontinued.
https://www.amazon.com/d/Laptop-Docking-Stations/WEme-Dual-Bay-External-Duplicator-Tool-Free/B00PTUQE4M/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1542081231&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=unitek+hard+drive+dock&psc=1
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The steps should be pretty simple.
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That means the hard drive cable is bad, or the hard drive is so broken that OS X can't detect it.
Replacing the cable is less straightforward than the hard drive, but still possible. iFixit have a guide and sell the replacement part.
You can connect the drive to another computer with something like this adapter, but if it's connected to a Windows computer, you won't be able to access the contents without a third-party utility, due to the Mac OS filesystem.
The first result I can find is this: https://www.amazon.com/QNINE-Adapter-Performance-Portable-Support/dp/B07JKWHFRC/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1550066145&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=nvme+adapter
It seems a bit expensive but a company should really have that cash.
Alternative you'd need an extra step in between with this: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-M-2-U-2-Adapter-SFF-8639/dp/B073W65QX6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1550066243&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=nvme+to+sata+adapter
And that:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1550066276&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=sata+to+usb
If you didn't have any surge protection, it is very likely toast.
You can always pull it out and try something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499811816&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=sata+to+usb&amp;psc=1
to see if you can recover anything.
yep that should do the trick as well. your data will be fine, assuming theres nothing wrong with the drive. usb feeds enough power for it to see the hard drive is there, it just doesnt supply enough to physically spin up the platters to read the data. i assume you are using something similar to this? https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/
I assume it has your old files on it. It wouldn't make sense if it were anything else.
You need to buy this cable. If you need to find it somewhere else, the search term you need is "usb to sata". You do not need the full dock/enclosure that others have recommended; the cable is fine and more convenient to use.
The easiest way to transfer the data from the old macbook is to pull the hard drive out and connect it to an external USB to SATA adapter like this one i've linked below. Bestbuy also has an enclosure that does the same. Also if I'm correct, you wont be able to access the data from the Mac's hard drive on a windows PC and therefore will require the hard drive be plugged into another mac. From there the data can be copied to an exfat formatted USB or external hard drive, then transferred to the Asus.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493534934&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+to+sata:
Looking for a sata to usb 3.0 adapter for ~$15. I found this:
https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-3-0-Inch-UASP-SATA-Converter-USB3S2SAT3CB/dp/B00HJZJI84
Just wondering if there's anything else
Check if the laptop has a 2nd drive bay if you intend to clone your current drive to it.
If it doesn't have a 2nd drive bay you can use a USB to sata adapter temporarily.
If I were you I would buy a device like this https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478523093&amp;sr=8-1
Or if you already have a SATA external harddrive, you could replace the hdd in that with the one from your pc.
eSATA and mSATA is not what you have. And the 1,2,3 is just different speeds.
Ok, I really like the advice of /u/zottelbeyer
, but I will try to give my own. Just remember: There is never enough storage space.
My current setup: TS-673 with 2x512GB M.2 SSD RAID 1 as system volume + 4x10TB HDD RAID 6 ad storage volume, with intention of expanding up to 6x10TB as I need more space. Synology DS218J with 1x10TB+1x3TB HDD JBOD used as backup unit.
First: I personally don't think I'd use RAID 10 when I can use RAID 6. RAID 6 offer better drive protection than RAID 10, so yes, I'd also switch to RAID 6.
Second: Backup in the same machine is not considered backup. There are tons of things that can destroy all drives in a case at same time. For example:
https://old.reddit.com/r/DataHoarder/comments/dc8hda/nearly_lost_all_my_data/
So, The fact that you are backuping your main RAID 10 data into a different 8TB drive inside the same NAS means that you are in fact not performing any backup at all. One ransomware infection will destroy the totality of your data.
Ok, now, let's dive in.
Currently, the sweet spot of cost/storage are located in 8TB drives, but slowly switching to 10TB. Personally, I'd go with 10 or 12 TB drives. You can get 10TB WD red drives for 189€ (WD element drives shucked). With 5x10TB drives in RAID 6 you get 30TB (27.3 TB of usable space). If you use RAID 5 (more about that later), you can bump up to 40TB (36.4 TB of usable space). That is 5 times what you currently have, and without need to buy a new enclosure. That is leaving your 6th bay as offsite for the other user.
Right now, IMHO there is no reason to stick with lots and lots of low storage drive. Get fewer with higher capacity. Prices have dropped enough.
You have also to take into account that bay space is also an important issue. That makes in the end bigger drives more valuable that small drives.
You can start increasing your drive count slowly, and adding more drives as your space needs increase.
About backups: I really encourage you to move your backup outside your TVS-673. If you go the bigger drive route you will have 4TB drives spare (your current RAID array) that you can use to perform backup. I used this:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Docking-Station-Support/dp/B0099TX7O4/
or a cheaper version:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-USB-Cable-USB3S2SAT3CB/dp/B00HJZJI84/
Connect your drive, then you can create a backup job to store your important files on it, and then disconnect it and store it away. Repeat with each drive you want. Perform a new backup once a week. In case of NAS destroy, you have full backup available.
I personally prefer to use another cheap NAS to automatically perform backups, but that means spending some more money. About RAID 0 backups, it's not ideal, but it is doable. RAID is not backup, is intended to reduce downtime. Strictly speaking, you don't need RAID if you are willing to assume downtime while you restore from your backups. So, RAID 0 (or JBOD) is acceptable as backup plan. Yes, if one drive of your backup fails, you lose everything, but it is a backup. All you have to do is switch the failing drive and recreate the backup from scratch. Pretty straight forward and it doesn't risk your data. Since your main data is a RAID array, in case of failure of your backup RAID 0, you still have tolerance for at least another drive failure (RAID 5) or even two (RAID 6) in your main array.
Finally, if you decide to go "full datahoard mode" (rack server, +10 bays, ZFS or BTRFS , etc) then by all means, go to /r/DataHoarder and /r/homelab. Tons of useful advice there.
In case you go this route, then yes, get a nice rack, set ZFS, and use your TVS-673 as an expensive backup NAS to keep your data safe. I personally use borg backup, but ZFS has a nice snapshot backup utility with incremental copy.
Sorry for the wall of text. I think I addressed most of your concerns, right?
This is the one I bought that works well. I went through reviews before I bought it to confirm that it works with Samsung SSDs.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-USB-Cable-USB3S2SAT3CB/dp/B00HJZJI84/
Physically remove the hard drive, buy or borrow a USB to SATA adapter, hook it up to another windows computer, and pull your files. Then run a chkdsk to scan the drive
This is what you're looking for.
There are other options but this one is pretty inexpensive.
If it's going in to startup repair, the drive itself is not dead... Yet.
When you get your computer rebuilt with the new hardware, you can use something like this to connect your old HDD so you can browse it and recover your files.
> Is there a way to quickly connect the HDD to my laptop,
You'll need something like an external enclosure or a SATA to USB adapter to be able to connect it to your laptop. The enclosure/docking station I listed is a bit overkill as it works with both 2.5" and 3.5" disk drives. You can save almost half the price if you get a dedicated 2.5" OR 3.5" dedicated enclosure.
> permanently delete the already deleted files, then disconnect it and put it back where he had it?
Assuming you can get the HDD connected to your laptop, the free version of CCeaner has the capability to permanently remove those "deleted" files that still reside on the drive. Here's a youtube video showing how it's done (sorry the guy is a little hard to understand, but I think you'll get the idea). Good luck and feel free to ask questions should you have any.
Time Machine restores the backup to a fresh install of MacOS, to make it easy to reinstall, and migrate your data to a new computer. The backups are not bootable, so you you need to install the OS before restoring.
If you want to port your disk from you HD to and SSD in one move, you can use Superduper and copy the whole drive to the SSD before installing it using a USB to SATA cable, keep in mind the HD and SSD needs to be the same size if not more as to fit all of the data.
The SATA connection is standard on most drives these days. (some manufaturers, Apple....I'm looking at you....have proprietary connections)
The Connections on your drive are standard. I use a SATA drive docking station on my desk at work for data transfers, but if you're only looking to copy the data off the drive, a SATA to USB cable would be fine. This is the one that's in my tool bag for when I go on site.
Actually, I suppose it would depend on the hard drive, if you have a really old one, it would be IDE like that one, but if it's from the past ~10 years, it'd be SATA, and you'd want something like this: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503217452&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=SATA+to+USB
Even if the laptop is dead you might still be able to recover the drive. Dependent on the drive you can pull it and use something like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503458323&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=sata+usb+adapter) for a SATA drive, or [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Cablecc-22pin-Combo-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00S6AHQBM/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503458482&amp;sr=1-11&amp;keywords=pcie+ssd+adapter) for mSATA/M.2 drive.
I've pulled a drive from a surface that went in the wash for the whole cycle. It still worked.
> How are you planning to connect it though?
Using StarTech's cable with speedier UASP, but if you have a better suggestion, I'm all ears:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506778558&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sata+iii+cable+usb+3.0
You mean something like this?
This is an even cheaper option I got for xbox one. Just remember if purchasing for xbox one, the drive must be in the 256gb class/range or larger in order to store games. I'm not sure about PS4:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-750-evo-250gb-internal-sata-solid-state-drive-for-laptops-black/5393201.p?skuId=5393201&amp;ref=212&amp;loc=1&amp;ksid=67e91dbd-ac78-450e-9ddb-7235235ca87e&amp;ksprof_id=8&amp;ksaffcode=pg199034&amp;ksdevice=c&amp;lsft=ref:212,loc:2
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479301012&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=USB+3.0+to+2.5%22+SATA+III+Hard+Drive+Adapter+Cable+w%2F+UASP+-+SATA+to+USB+3.0
I am always the first to load into SWBF or BF1, the difference is incredible.
get this
and plug it into this
I haven't heard any noises come from the drive in, ever. That's why I'm so surprised. It hasn't degraded over time, no performance issues before this. Wasn't running slow or anything, it just suddenly went poof and it's just gone.
I got recommended by a friend to get one of these (https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/) to try it outside of my case while my machine is running. Not sure if trying this would be worth it or Data Recovery could be worth it either. I'm not entirely sure of the price point of Data Recovery versus how important the stuff is on my drive. It's definitely inconvenient that it doesn't work anymore, but from what I recall right now there's nothing that's mission critical on it.
Thank you all so much for the advice. I finally pulled the trigger this weekend and upgraded my mac and the difference is incredible. It would normally take up to 5 minutes for my mac to fully turn on and login. Now its under 30 seconds!
For those looking to do the same thing here's what I did:
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How to upgrade your Mid-2012 15-Inch MacBook Pro
Step 1 - Backup your files
For me this took the longest, I'm not the most organized person. I also saved my keychain, apple mail logins, stickeys, etc. I was in the middle of projects that I needed to jump right back into after the upgrade.
Step 2 - Create a macOS installer on the USB drive
Follow this ---> https://9to5mac.com/2018/10/22/how-to-create-macos-mojave-usb-installer-easy-video/
Step 3 - Plug the new harddrive in via Sata cable usb
This is where my first issue came into play. I skipped ahead and swapped out my harddrives only to try and boot up and my system not recognize the new SSD. I first thought I purchased a dud. The truth is you need to format the new drive for the computer to see it. Plug in the new SSD and follow these instructions to erase and format. I chose Mac OS Extended (journaled) https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT208496
NOTE::: you dont have to use the usb drive, you can install the new SSD first if you want and format from the bootable USB.
Step 4 - Install the new SSD
Follow this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cfiGF_pjqvM
When installed, hold Option on your keyboard and then turn on. Select the USB macOS installer and follow instructions. Install onto the new SSD. Should take 20-30 min
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Step 5 - The Battery
Follow the instructions in the videos on this page: https://eshop.macsales.com/item/NewerTech/BAP15MBU78W/#owctabs
Make sure you set aside some time to do this. The install is very fast however its the calibration that takes some time. After you install your new battery, turn the computer on to test, there should be a little charge in it. Shut your computer down and then plug in. Let it fully charge, the light on plug should turn green. Then leave it for another 2 hours. Turn the computer on, unplug, turn all power settings off (follow video) and let the computer run until the battery is completely dead. Then wait a number of hours. This will calibrate your battery with your system.
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Then plug in and enjoy your new laptop!
Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1427610497&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sata+to+usb&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41RFQc9vgIL&amp;ref=plSrch
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
I was pretty nervous too about the upgrade, but just take your time watch a bunch of youtube how-to's and I would suggest taking a look at this walk through: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Pro+15-Inch+Unibody+Early+2011+Hard+Drive+Replacement/5895
Things you'll need that aren't on that page are one of these, SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable
the tools I bought this one. Comes in a nice case and has everything you need
the hard drive. I already linked to the one I chose, but there are other options
and if you want to keep the old drive as a back up, you'll need one of these
I got my ram a while back so I don't have a direct link, but make sure you're getting the kind that will work with her machine. There are plenty of online guides and the question has been asked/answered here more than a couple times, but if you get overwhelmed just throw up another post. People here are generally great.
Not really endorsing any of these things over the competition, just trying to be helpful. Good luck. It's an AMAZING improvement once it's done!
I'm not 100% sure, but can't you just get a temporary SATA - USB cable?
Like this http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
I know this does not directly answer either one of your questions, but it will address both of the concerns you have.
Just use something like SuperDuper to copy your current drive onto the drive you want to replace. The free version should do the job just fine.
This way, when you install the new drive it will be like nothing has changed. It's the least amount of hassle.
In order to be able to write to the SSD before you physically install it, you will need either a disk enclosure, or a SATA to USB cable. Should not cost more than $15.
Let me know if that makes sense and if you need any help with any of the steps.
I use these with 2.5"SSDs
StarTech.com USB3S2SAT3CB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable w/ UASP - SATA to USB 3.0 Converter for SSD/HDD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_i_3dn.AbWBZTAF8
You can remove the hardrive and get something like this. Connect it to your Macbook and it transfer the data.
First thing is to format the SSD using Disk Utility. That's already on your Mac.
Use Time Machine to backup your existing drive. Then clean install OS X on the SSD, and restore from Time Machine.
One of these cables will make it all much easier, especially if you don't have a spare external drive. With this cable, you can skip several hops when moving stuff.
I upgraded my Mid-2010 15" MBP earlier this year, added 4 more GB of ram and added a 1 TB SanDisk Ultra II SSD. Let me tell you - the damn thing runs like a new computer, and still does almost a year later. Starts up in seconds, almost never have lag, it's never crashed, etc. It's lifechanging.
One of these will be your best bet for transferring between your old hard drive to your new hard drive. There are plenty of step by step instructional guides on doing the replacement yourself, it was actually much easier than I thought it would be.
If you have the ability to upgrade your RAM, I'd recommend going ahead and doing that while you're at it. Good luck!
SSDs
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6JQS8C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
via USB to Sata adapater
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
If you can avoid using the laptop until then, no. I'd recommend getting a sata to USB adapter like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HJZJI84/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498148482&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=sata+to+usb&amp;psc=1
Remove the HDD from the laptop and use the desktop to transfer to the new external. That way you aren't relying on the laptop HDD to also run the OS.
That's probably your best bet.
I am guessing your SSD is a SATA drive and not PCI...I use these when transferring data from drives
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HJZJI84/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1417113394&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40
I bought a Samsung 850 EVO and converter cable (didn't bother with the enclosure), works great!
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OBRE5UE/
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84/
Ouch. Lots of drive failures today.
OK, unplug it & let it rest and cool down a bit, then try again.
Next step after that would be to remove it from the case & connect it with another adapter - if you're lucky, could be that something in the enclosure just went bad. You'd need a cable like this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84?ref_=sr_1_4&amp;qid=1449153864
I use two Kingston 240gb SSDs in mirror once booting from flash drives were no longer being recommended. I know 240gb is way too big for what I need, but compared to smaller sizes - it didn't make sense to me to buy smaller.
My Dell R720XD has internal SATA ports but they are disabled... and I didn't want to dedicate two drive bays for boot disks - so I bought a pair of these SATA to USB cables, and haven't had an issue. One is attached to the server's internal USB port and the other SSD is inside the chasis too, plugged into a back USB port - and the cable is fed through an empty PCIe slot.
You definitely can plug in any old SSD. I'm connecting my old Samsung EVO 840 to my Xbox via a USB 3.0 to SATA adapter and some duct tape.
I haven't gone out of my way to do any timed testing, but anecdotally my buddies and clanmates all notice that I load in considerably faster than they do.
U can do a fresh install on the ssd but I wouldn't boot with both plugged in you can get one of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HJZJI84/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1427610497&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sata+to+usb&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41RFQc9vgIL&amp;ref=plSrch after the install is done and you boot to get your files off hope this helps
This is the fastest method.
It's also one of the safest methods and the easiest method. Plus, you get to verify that the new drive is working before putting it into your Mac. That's not really such big deal on a MBP 2011 since the drives are so easy to swap, but on other Macs making sure the drive is working properly can be a really good idea.
Also, you can get an external drive cable/adapter for like $13. This works great if you don't want an enclosure for the drive, but not advisable if you want a portable drive, in which case you want an enclosure.
Another option if the OP no longer wants the optical drive is to remove the optical drive and swap it with a HDD bracket and the old HDD drive. Then they can just clone from the old HDD drive internally to the new SSD.
You can also get an enclosure for the old optical drive making it a portable external optical drive.
thats sata data / sata power - no such adapter exists, unfortunately
the closest you'll get is this - https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-2-5in-Adapter-Converter-SAT32M225/dp/B00ITJ7U20 - but its still a sata interface
In your motherboard's specs:
1 x M.2 Socket 3, , with M Key, type 2242/2260/2280/22110 storage devices support (Support PCIE SSD only)
Your SSD is SATA, so either you return it and get a PCIe one, or you get an adapter like this one.
> memphis 2-S motherboard
oo yes it looks like it 16x or 1x :o well then you will be stuck to 250mbs no matter what max then even if you used a sata pcie or m.2.
If you have enough Sata ports on the MB you could look at getting a m.2 to sata enclosure like so Link
thats not true they make an m.2 to sata converter
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-2-5in-Adapter-Converter-SAT32M225/dp/B00ITJ7U20
http://eshop.sintech.cn/sata-hdd-to-m2-ngff-socket-adapter-converter-card-p-951.html
You need to use an adapter like this one: https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-Adapter-Converter-Housing-SAT32M225/dp/B00ITJ7U20
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EDIT: To be clear, this adapter should be used ONLY in the case of having a M.2 SATA drive. M.2 is just an interface and if the drive using it happens to be using a PCIe controller, you will need to use the T7u (or some other PCIe write blocker).
Yes if you use this kind of adapter
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-2-5in-Adapter-Converter-SAT32M225/dp/B00ITJ7U20
Depends if the SSD that you took out is M.2 SATA or M.2 PCIe. For the SATA version you can buy adapters that convert the M.2 into a 2.5" drive. Here's an example, no clue how well that one works though, never used one myself ;-)
They're
a whopping twenty-two dollarydoosnot physically feasible.It's just a small board with a microcontroller. Turns out it's a pretty easy task.
EDIT: I'm an idiot.
You need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ITJ7U20/
Won't plug into a PCIe slot because an M.2 SATA SSD isn't PCIe. If you need more SATA ports get a cheap SATA PCIe expansion card.
Edit: WAIT that port on the end is a SATA jack... Plug a SATA cable from there to your mobo and you're good to go. Install the M.2 drive in the slot behind it.
If you have standard SATA ports available you could use something like this for the M.2 SATA drive and move your M.2 PCI-e NVME drive to the first mobo slot.
That SSD is SATA. You need an M.2 to SATA adapter like this one (you find cheaper ones if you search for it):
https://www.amazon.de/StarTech-SAT32M225-2-5in-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00ITJ7U20
Yeah you need an adapter like this.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-2-5in-Adapter-Converter-SAT32M225/dp/B00ITJ7U20
No clue if it would fit in a laptop or how well it would work, but there you go.
I assume you've tried reseating the SSD into the m.2 slot?
Do you have another PC you can plug the SSD into to test it?
You could try one of these. Have you tried a different SSD on this mobo?
Worst case solution RMA the board.
replace the laptop HDD with an m.2 with one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-2-5in-Adapter-Converter-SAT32M225/dp/B00ITJ7U20
In my desktop I'm using a standard 2.5" ssd. I will soon be moving and will be using a laptop that I have. Will I be able to continue to use this ssd in my laptop using a usb to sata cable such as this? Any potential issues?
Ok do you have a Sata to USB cable? So you can disconnect it from the motherboard, boot the system then plug in that hard drive via USB to possibly see what's going on or format that drive to see if it helps? Here's a link to what I'm referring to, https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
Yes as Auxillary said, you can save the data. If the hard drive for the laptop is a SATA drive, you can easily purchase, unless you already have one lying around a USB to SATA adapter and plug it into another PC and the laptop hard drive will show up like an external drive.
Example of USB to SATA:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
the program says it will migrate your OS onto an ssd, but honestly it's not recommended. there are so many individual little driver installs for certain motherboard functions and chipset features that are already installed on your current pc and would carry over to the new build and make a bunch of problems.
it's best practice to do a fresh windows install for a new pc and adding an ssd.
i dont know what kind of system you currently have, but this is what i would do if i were you:
and then you're back to 100% without cloning errors
Yes. A cable like this will provide power and data.
TL;DR: the most straightforward way to swap a drive is the external USB disk method I described before. But if you want to get fancy, read below.
(apologies if this is information overload and just confusing you more. Then just ignore this post)
It's possible to clone your internal SSD directly to the new SSD without two slots, depending on the SSD you are using.
If it's a standard 2.5in SATA drive (something like this) then you can attach the new drive to your laptop over USB with a cable like this one). This will be faster, easier and cheaper than using the external drive method I mentioned earlier.
If it's an m.2 SATA SSD (like this one) you can also attach it via USB with an adaptor (like this one)
If it's an m.2 NVMe drive and you only have one slot... then you need to do the external USB disk method I mentioned before.
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I realize I'm late to the party but i figured I'd let you know what I've been using for a while now and am very happy with.
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-adapter-Internal-CT256MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGCWK/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416455113&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=crucial+mx100
and this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
There is no need to get an enclosure for an SSD drive. I learned that the hard way when i realized the chipset on the enclosure i bought was putting off more heat than the SSD itself.
Great thing about the SSD... you can change the interface. No USB3 but have eSATA?
Bam
http://www.amazon.com/Shared-eSATA-Cable-Laptop-Drive/dp/B002MKKTWA/ref=sr_1_25?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416455341&amp;sr=1-25&amp;keywords=SATA+to+esata
Edit...
And you'll get way better performance too.
Beep codes mean there is most likely a hardware issue, this website here supposedly can help you identify where the start looking https://www.acerrepairblog.us/aspire-5920g/phoenix-bios-beep-codes.html
Honestly with a laptop that old there is bound to be some part of the board or memory giving out. The good news is that it sounds like the hard drive could still be perfectly fine. You can buy something like this https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3 that can take your hard drive and mount it on someone else's PC to recover data.
I've never once heard of DRAMless drives (and I've seen a lot of SSDs) - I really don't think it's a common term you need to be familiar with...
All you need to check are read speeds, write speeds, and most importantly, reviews. The rest of the specs really do not matter in everyday use. Modern SSDs will last a long time, probably longer than you'll ever need - but read reviews to be sure.
I've had no problems with a number of Samsung, SanDisk, and a few Kingston drives - haven't tried any others.
Also just FYI, minimum drive size is 240GB for Xbox. Your dock must also support USB 3.0 (required for Xbox), and ideally UASP. If yours does not meet that requirement, my personal recommendation for SSDs is actually a simple cable - https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ - I bought a bunch of these and they work great, far more convenient than any dock or enclosure, cheaper too.
As for the thumb drive... those typically have slow read speeds and even slower write speeds. Would not normally recommend, but it might work. Depends on the specific drives you have.
what? either connect them internally with sata cables, or buy a large external drive and copy all the files to that. if you need an adapter to transfer things, here: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
1 Cloning is the way to go as there is no real evidence a clean install of windows is better. however it's a lot more time consuming.
2 on HDD, delete recycling bin and as many files/unused programs as possible. Then long degrag drive using degraggler
3 use this guide if windows doesn't recognize ur new SSD.
4 Follow this guide using Macrium Reflect to clone HDD to SSD. Here is a step by step video
If you have a laptop and only space for one drive you'll need to clone to the SSD while it's external and need a USB to SATA cable, enclosure etc. An enclosure might be a better choice if later you plan on using the HDD for external storage. The cable is a better choice if you plan on doing this often, for friends.
Edit: Reddit has been a total bust for computer support for me. I just condensed 15+hrs of research and execution into a few simple steps, links included, and it's downvoted. Now I know why so few people are willing to help here
I'm in the same situation as you. My WD My Book crapped the bed. It still spins up but the computer sees no writable partitions. The I/O light doesn't even blink anymore. Just stays solid. Although, I got the cable just right once and I was able to slowly copy a few files over before the problem started repeating again. So this leads me to believe it is a port/cable issue. It was even still under warranty. But you have to ship it back to them and they ship you a NEW one. If you want your data recovered you have to send to to a third party first. WD says they destroy your data but I don't trust it.
The WD My Books are just HDDs with a shell so you should be able to swap the HD with another working WD Mybook
You can also take the case off and it has an adapter on the HDD to change it from 2.5SATA to USB 3.0 micro b that you can slide off and make it a normal HDD. So if you have an extra PC or trust yourself installing a second HDD in your current PC you could try that. I attempted this and failed. But I contributed it to trying to install a 4TB hd on an old dell with 2GHz processor and 2gbs ram. Even when I set my bios to boot to the Dells original Seagate HDD, the dell still tries to boot from the 4tb WD drive that never had an OS on it. And plugging it into an already booted computer failed too (risky move but I was desperate).
I've got three more solutions I'm gonna try. Gonna email WD an ask istead of replacing my drive if they will send me a new SATA to SS adapter and a new cable that comes with it. If not, Hopefully a USB 3.0 to 2.5 SATA cable does the trick.
And if all else fails. An HDD dock seems like my favorite and an all round better solution than external WD my books.
You shouldn't have to solder anything. But I haven't been successful at recovering the data so what do I know hahaha
Good luck.
You need a cable like this, just pull your hard drive out and connect it to your new computer it will act the same as a USB flash drive.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486075304&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=hard+drive+converter
You can take out the hard drive and plug it into another machine using one of these.
What happens if you hold "option" while booting?
yes, then you can get everything important off the HDD and move it on the SDD, you can still use the HDD as a external drive, but due to potential unreliability you should get everything important off.
Basically you would use something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
In general, it's worth checking how much it'd cost to repair yourself. You can generally buy OEM screens pretty cheap if you're willing to wait for them to ship.
The main blow with damaging a computer tends to be losing the data. Are you sure the hard drive's dead? If it isn't in pieces, I'd give it decent odds: computer have fall detection built in, so the disk will stop spinning - and won't get scratched - if you drop it. Spending twenty bucks on a SATA to USB cable and seeing if it'll spin up tends to be worth it. Having that guy lying you around can make you a pretty big hero if you come across anyone with a damaged computer.
I'm confused, does the new one have two drives? You say installed on the main SSD, so I assume there's a second one? Like an M.2 drive or something?
Will it boot if you just put the old drive in the new laptop? I've been able to do that then just immediately update all the drivers to those required for the new computer. As long as they're similar types of computers, default drivers should be enough to get you operational long enough to download the required drivers.
You may have to change the bios settings to boot in legacy mode, but it could work.
Personally I would buy one of these, copy all of your data from your old computer to the SSD that came in the new laptop. Put the old one in your new laptop, install your OS of choice, then copy all of your files over. It's the cleanest way to do it.
I'm using this one with an SSD currently, I also have the Type-C SKU. Just don't leave the drive plugged in when you're transporting it, and get a case for your drive if you've got a HDD, and it should last.
Can you tell what exact converter it was, e.g. StarTech?
Also, did it detect the drive if plugged inside the laptop?
The adapter covers both the sata and power slots so i can put in an individual power connector. http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-3-0-Inch-2-5-Inch-Drive-Adapter/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1412791564&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=sata+to+usb+3+0+adapter is the adapter i have. I just realized this is for sata 3. Is that the issue?
Don't touch a thing, hook it up to another computer with one of these and run this program here.
External storage is a stop-gap measure at best; as is cloud storage. But you're in luck, because the 2013 MacBook Pro is easy to upgrade with a larger hard drive or SSD. (Some newer models can't be upgraded.)
There's a possibility the external enclosure is broken but the drive is fine (I've seen this quite a few times). Take it out of the enclosure and try to access the drive directly. If you have a desktop just plug it in as an additional hard drive.
If you only have a desktop you'll need a SATA (assuming this drive isn't ancient - left is IDE right is SATA http://static.diffen.com/uploadz/1/17/SATA-IDE.jpg) adapter to USB. If it's a smaller (2.5" drive) you can probably get away with something like this https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ If it's a larger 3.5" drive you'll want something with a separate power source, like this https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Adapter-Converter-Optical-External/dp/B01J7MWD4M/ I personally would err on the side of getting the external power adapter myself, to rule out "not enough power" as a reason the drive doesn't work.edit: I would actually spring for something like this https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Docking-Station-DS-UBLK/dp/B00IKAQ538/ Only $23 but has a lot of good reviews, I've heard good things about it specifically in the past as well. The last thing you want to do is cheap out on the adapter and think your drive is dead when your adapter is really just crap.
If the drive itself works but the computer doesn't recognize the partitions, try using linux to DD the files over and then mount the partition manually. DM me if you get here and I can either give you some pointers (if you're comfortable with linux CLI) or we may be able to work something out.
If the drive doesn't spin up when you apply power you are dealing with a situation in which you can either accept defeat or pay a LOT of money to have the files recovered professionally.
Im the type of guy that just gets a normal HDD and connect them with an USB to SATA Adapter
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/
external HDDs are nothing else than that however have a nice looking case and the "Adapter" is inside the case.
Something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
Or even something as simple as this depending on your use. https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542743869&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=usb+3.0+to+sata&amp;psc=1
I'm using a USB to SATA cable to connect my 250 GB SSDs to my Pis, no external power just a 2.5 Amp unit for the Pi. No issues and it sees a fair amount of use as it is serving as an SMB v1 server for my Sonos system.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've used this case too but it seems silly given the sealed SSDs I'm using:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FQ5R0PG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If I wanted to use a spinning rust drive I'd buy a different cable that split signal and power and add a second power brick. Don't have this one, an example only.
https://smile.amazon.com/SaiTech-USB-Shape-Micro-cable/dp/B00MFL4HQU/ref=sr_1_4
you can always get a "usb to sata" cable. It has both the power and data port.
If you want to keep everything interal, ebay has you covered. Usually a power connector connects to the PSU and it would have several power connectors branching out of that single cable.
Although, I recommend getting the splitter and using your existing cable to connect both hdd and sdd.
Edit: I didn't read that you checked ebay already lol but the pc specialist is BS. your ssd is not mini sata. it's standard sata.
You can also just get the 1TB Samsung 860 EVO for $180 and this:
https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
Enclosure isn't even needed. Given the build quality and how enclosed a standard SSD is. A simple sata3 to usb 3.1 cable can do it too.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_1ml4Bb0ETCMA8
I'm running the above cable with a 250gb Samsung Evo
Well if it helps your data is prob still fine on the hard drive, if you can remove it you can get an adapter to make it like a USB Drive and then you can plug it into another computer and get your files back at least :)
StartTech also makes SATA to USB cables that work great and do the same job.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
Would there be a danger of a virus being on a drive? Yea maybe, probably really slim chance. If you're not comfortable putting the drive on your main PC, may I suggest putting on a "dummy" console? (ie a PC you don't give a crap about)
I also suggest you invest a a SATA to USB cable like the one below, I find it useful to see what the content is on a 2.5" drive without having to bust open a PC and slapping in there (yea I'm lazy like that)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_z5X4CbSM5P0G4
Just my .02
This almost sounds like a broken hard drive. If you need the files off of the computer, then try getting the hard drive out of the malfunctioning computer. Then get a converter like this: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=HDD+to+usb&qid=1558640049&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Be careful not to touch the green PCB on the bottom of the hard drive. And be sure to take care when plugging in and unplugging the hard drive, the connections on these things are not the strongest. Hard drive are pretty tough though, just don't drop them mostly. xD
Anyway, when you get the hard drive out, go ahead and plug it into the converter then into the working computer USB port and extract the files you need or want. I would suggest copying the files rather that moving them, by default it should be set to copy, just be mindful of this. When you're done, you can plug the hard drive back into the malfunctioning computer and continue to try and fix it with no worries of losing the files you want. Be sure open a picture or video after copying to make sure their not corrupted or broken in some way. A video is best as a single picture is significantly easier to copy without issue, so you should be fine if a video works.
You can check if the hard drive is working sometimes by listening and if you can hear a spin up the hard drive might still work. It can be hard to hear with laptop fans and such.
Here's a video that can help with the hard drive location and the take apart and put together process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YatNrUHN3c4
There are other videos on this too, if you want to to make extra sure.
There are risks to all of this, and it may end badly, but if you're careful the whole time then you should be okay.
I hope you like this book I wrote! And good luck!
--Wolfgang.
Well what did you do that for? That seems silly. But in all seriousness you'll just have to buy a new adapter. This one from Amazon is on sale right now
StarTech.com SATA to USB Cable - USB 3.0 to 2.5” SATA III Hard Drive Adapter - External Converter for SSD/HDD Data Transfer (USB3S2SAT3CB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IhI5CbXXM3EXJ
The hard drive in your system is hopefully ok and I believe on that model it comes out rather easy, 10 tiny screws removes the bottom plate, two screws removes the little plastic piece that holds the drive in place and disconnect SATA cable - bam, there’s the drive. With a $11 adapter you can then plug that drive in to another system to access your data or setup a new Mac and transfer your entire “digital life” right on to the new system
StarTech.com SATA to USB Cable - USB 3.0 to 2.5” SATA III Hard Drive Adapter - External Converter for SSD/HDD Data Transfer (USB3S2SAT3CB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1nAZCbF7JRW2A
yop something like that https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/
Well. All you would need is an external SATA to USB cable. Should be pretty cheap. Maybe $20.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
Once you replace the drive, and get MAC OS installed on the new drive, simply plug in the old drive to the adapter and copy everything over.
As for the replacement drive, I would splurge a little and go SSD. The performance gains are awesome.
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_3?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0Z9JVF0VY0X2KJP6EGMW will I need this for the process? i will buy it separately if needed
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=04S0CRXHJPPXQEH366CF
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
This is the kind of cable you require.
Yes, most of the time. Just make sure you're buying from a reputible brand. Here are some picks:
Edit: Anyone know how to prevent reddit from formatting the bullet points the way it is? I've listed them one after the other yet it's still indenting the second link...
Yeah, ezpz. Pop that sucker out and get something like this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
Job done.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500705763&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=sata+to+usb Personally i have a laptop so i use one of these, works just like an usb external hard drive.
You'll need something like this USB - SATA adapter. It will allow you to connect that drive to another computer as if it were a big external drive. This is a great thing to have in your bag of tricks, along with an extra mouse and keyboard.
You would need a SATA port to connect it to, even if you used a Linux LiveCD of some kind. If you have time to get something in the mail, you can snag a USB/SATA adapter like this then run some software like CrystalDiskInfo to get a basic check on the drive and make sure it's not dead.
More like one of these: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1415051124&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sata+to+usb+3+adapter
(USB3, and only uses one port) with one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-AH400-4-Port-Compact-Built-/dp/B00B7FOQCK/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1415051181&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=usb+3+hub
Because it's also a USB3 hub. Internally, it's probably a USB3 hub with the SATA connector connected to one of the ports.
Plus, the plastic costs quite a bit initially. You'd need to custom mould it and source plastics that are similar to the Xbox One. The thing probably costs the company ~5-10 bucks to make one, plus the setup overhead I talked about.
Open the laptop and take out the hard drive
if you have an extra laptop or pc plug the drive into it and copy files onto a usbDrive or external hard drive.
If you dont want to open up a working laptop use this if you have a mechanical hard drive - https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
if you have a small stick looking hard drive or m.2 drive use this - https://www.amazon.com/SHINESTAR-Adapter-Converter-Portable-External/dp/B0787MDDS9/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1537980089&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=m.2+to+usb&psc=1
Just use a USB to SATA adapter. https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
Must have for anyone who does the occasional drive swap in any device.
Adapters are a thing
What about this? https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492722606&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=hard+drive+dock
What adapter?
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492887608&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=usb+to+sata+adapter&amp;psc=1
If you can, I'd recommend you buying a USB 3.0 to 2.5 HDD Adapter and using a free program called Hard Drive Sentinel, Which check the HDD for any errors. Shouldn't even delete anything off it, or even touch the content. Link: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=pd_lpo_147_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=TQT82KV53P6Q584FYYV9
Edit: It's how I found out mine basically had a week left of usage. lol
Yes, that will work. Note that the Samsung "Pro" models cost a little more, and the benefits are probably not going to be apparent. They can handle more reads/writes before wearing out. Unless you're running a server from your laptop, the normal model will last 10-30 years with daily use.
Link to normal model:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Samsung-inch-Solid-State-Drive/dp/B00P73B1E4
You may also want to buy a SATA adapter, per this article:
http://www.laptopmag.com/articles/ssd-upgrade-tutorial
SATA adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
Windows failing to start up, and the pre-boot diagnostics confirm that hard drive is failing.
Based on the service tag, it looks like the laptop is already out of warranty, so a new hard drive would be an out of pocket expense.
As for recovering data off the drive, you could pull the drive and use a [SATA to USB adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84?th=1) and hook it up to another PC and see if you can read data off of it.
If this doesn't work, your only other options are to restore from a backup, or send the drive to a data recovery service (very expensive).
Good luck to you.
I can help ya. Okay first get a usb to sata adaptor:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
Something like this should work. Next get carbon copy cloner:
https://bombich.com/
Now connect your new hard drive to the usb adapter. Run carbon copy cloner and make a full copy of your boot disk to the usb disk. Now get clover efi:
https://sourceforge.net/projects/cloverefiboot/
Install this package to your usb hard drive. After you finish, take the usb disk and mount it in your new hackintosh build and you should be ready to go.
I have personally used this method dozens of times on may different computers. If it's compatible hardware everything should work just like your current OS with all your files and everything. You could even just install Clover efi to your boot disk and move it directly into the the new hackintosh. I actually used a hackintosh hard drive in my macbook pro and it worked flawlessly.
Yeah you're totally good man, just wait and see if you can pick up a sata cable or buy one https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84 and then reset it on a friends PC. You could also save yourself that headache and just format a USB drive to boot into and then boot from the USB drive!
That's probably the cause, win10 try to do too much stuff at once and the system lose responsiveness waiting for the hdd. I had the same problems with a brand new Nuc with a powerful i5. You can try to disable telemetry, indexes, cortana, delay the antivirus etc... but they will return after any major windows update. Upgrading to a ssd is probably the thing that can grant you the most benefit. Duplicating your old hdd is quite easy on a software level. Install some utility like Backupper, and with a few clicks the new SSD will be a bootable copy of your old HDD.
On an hardware level, it depends on your case, your motherboard and your psu. You must open the case and plug the new SSD to the motherboard and the PSU, so you may need some extra cables if they did not come with the SSD/psu/motherboard.
Most ssd use sata interface , while the older hdd still have pata, you should first check if your motherboard support sata for the ssd, but it is quite common since a decade or more.
You can even duplicate it using an USB adapter for the ssd like this , without the need to open the case.
After that you have to decide if replace the hdd or still use it as data drive.
In the first case, just unplug the cables from the HDD and plug them to the sdd, win10 should be able to start like nothing has changed. If you want to use both but boot from the ssd, you may have to tinker with the bios (something on the motherboard that start before windows) and manually choose the ssd as booting disk instead of the hdd.
Refer to this video in order to remove your drive. If your brother sells you his laptop you should be able to swap drives. Otherwise you can use a [cable like this] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nQx7ybJMDVZEA) to transfer your data to a new computer.
Okay, if your HDD is not the thing that died and if you just need the data/HDD, you can just open up the bottom panel and access it. Google for a pictorial guide to see where things are located in your laptop to find the HDD, and then google instructions on how to safely remove it.
Step 2, find a working computer you can plug the drive into. If you don't wanna open up the computer and plug it in internally, get a USB to SATA cable.
Just have to get a USB to SATA adapter.
Example product
>Could I use a micro sd card with one of these:
link1
>plugged into the NUC, and install Ubuntu on the micro sd card?
Yes, Ubuntu is very flexible with the location of your install as long as it remains plugged in while the device is on.
>Also, could I buy an SSD (but not an SSD meant for the NUC), one of these: link2
Yes, but you could also put that SSD in some models of NUC like this model.
>and plug it into the NUC with one of these cables:
link3
>And then install Ubuntu on that?
yes, but you could have better success with an external enclosure that stores the whole drive rather than that model that is meant for hotswapping. Like this.
What I love about the Xbox is that it has a lot of similarities to that of a Windows machine. I am a systems engineer and I believe you have some corrupted system files. The hard drive will have to be completely wiped with the OS reinstalled. This can be easily done from any Windows PC however, you'll require a sata to usb connector in order to connect your Xbox drive to PC. Complete a search on YouTube and you'll find a few tutorials.
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=sata+to+usb&qid=1556022941&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
In his scenario, I would get set up with the ssd like I said with only power going to the hdd, then VERY CAREFULLY just plug the sata cable to the hdd with everything still on. Alternatively, situations like this is where having something like this laying around is handy. Then from within Windows just delete everything on the hdd. There's certainly other (safer) ways to do it, but having run into issues in this situation before, this is just how I do it. It circumvents problems like what OP is currently having, and releases you from having to mess with boot orders in the bios and whatnot.
Though really, you only need to deal with that sort of thing if you're planning on using the hdd with the new ssd. If you're replacing the ssd, you just install Windows, easy peasy.
What model laptop is the one that crashed? What version of Windows? Do you have another WORKING computer? If so, buy a USB/SATA converter, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480309202&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=usb+sata+converter or if you want, I'll sell you a used one for $10, pick-up price. Use that to connect to another computer and move all your important stuff over. Sounds like 2 of these are easy fixes, and the keyboard one you just need a replacement keyboard from ebay, OR you can remove the keyboard, wash off the keyboard with water, let it sit for a couple days to dry out and reinstall, or just use a USB keyboard.
Totally agree with /u/fcewen00's advice to replace it with an SSD to get your Mac up and running again.
To clarify the data recovery portion, just because it won't boot doesn't mean that all data is lost.
First of all, a clicking drive can potentially do more physical damage to the data on the drive if you try to read from it. So, if the data is really important to you, the best bet is to send it off to Drive Savers right away. They will disassemble the drive, and get as much data off as possible. However, this is usually a last-resort due to the price tag.
If you want to give it a shot yourself, you could attach the removed drive to a working Mac or Linux box with a USB/SATA cable (like this one), and attempt to browse and copy files. Note: if you attach it to a Mac, it may take a very long time to mount (give it at least 15 minutes).
If that's not working, you could try a free tool called ddrescue to attempt to create an image of the bad drive. A while ago, I wrote up a quick tutorial on the commands necessary. Note: for this, you will need at least as much free space on the host drive as the capacity of the failing drive (meaning you likely won't be able to run it on your shiny new ssd Mac).
I'm talking about the Kingston thumb drives. My point being that you don't lose anything by utilizing an SSD connected to a USB enclosure or adapter for boot, over a single thumb drive, because no USB thumb drives support SMART either (that I have found). You definitely aren't able to take advantage of the SMART features of whatever SSD you use in that manner, because I've never found a USB-SSD adapter/enclosure that supports SMART, but you aren't really losing anything either.
SSD's seem to be more reliable in general, SMART or not, than flash drives... so it could be advantageous to use one with a USB adapter, even though you don't get SMART data from it, especially if it means not giving up a SATA port (if they are limited).
One of these is what I plan on using, hooked to the internal USB header on my supermicro board.
If the hard drive is still functional, then yes, it'll basically act like an external hard drive. There are a few variables (partition type), but it is likely to work. Make sure to get a good adaptor. One like this should do just fine.
[This](StarTech USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable w/ UASP - SATA to USB 3.0 Converter for SSD/HDD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TI1Tzb9P8VCGY) is what you'd be looking for. It's a SATA adapter. You can find them for cheaper but this is the first example i ran across
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-USB-Cable-USB3S2SAT3CB/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=usb+sata+adapter&amp;qid=1573159682&amp;sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-USB-Cable-USB3S2SAT3CB/dp/B00HJZJI84
I think this is what you're looking for.
$10 or so
With a cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503800455&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=SATA+to+USB+cable
you can attach the new 2.5in SSD to a USB port and format and install the OS on it. Then boot into the SSD and migrate your data. Now when you install the drive it will boot up with all your files intact.
You could get one of these, remove HD from computer then plug it into the adapter and connect to another computer to get any files off. Then do a fresh install.
StarTech USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable w/ UASP - SATA to USB 3.0 Converter for SSD/HDD - Hard Drive Adapter Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_lLDCwbD0ZTCDM
moderator removed this post but it's connected with one of these. did not use the [Tech] tag so the auto bot could post the reboot your xbox support message.
anyways thanks, yes I'm pretty sure it 3.0
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=pd_sim_147_2?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41RlR-Q1siL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=1TZ3ZYE3CKY2Y8EGH9DD
I see. You're probably right. And I was going to say that the hard drive you have linked is awfully expensive but it's a 2.5 inch so thats why. Then my solution would figure out how much space you need and figure out if you can get it below 250GB. If so, definitely go with the SSD. Also, can you still use the hard disk you have now to store stuff? If there is no space in your laptop, can you use one of these for your old HDD? (You might be able to find a cheaper one i just linked the first one I saw.)
something like this will help the data migration
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB3S2SAT3CB-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522295271&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=ssd+usb+adapter
*edit - just search ssd to usb
I'll be up front, that is not good news. What I'm about to tell you is actually my least favorite part of my job. It sounds to me like your external drive's controller board is fine, but your hard disk might be failing.
If you are comfortable enough and have another drive that will fit for testing, swap another drive in there and try to read it. If you get nothing, your controller is fucked and you should get one of these and back up its contents ASAP.
There's also a chance that it's been formatted RAW. In this case, if you're okay with rolling the dice, you can attempt to clean it with diskpart, format it and go back over it with Recuva or Shadow Explorer to help you retrieve your files. Do so at your own risk! But it is important to know that when you format a disk, you aren't deleting the data. You're telling the drive that it is okay to write over any data on the disk. So don't write anything to it and you will be fine.
Barring that, you may need to seek out advanced data recovery services. A platter transfer might be necessary and is best left to a data recovery specialist. This can be very costly.
There's an unfortunate final option, which is that there is no Sata to USB converter inside the drive and it goes straight to USB. Straight to data recovery.
Edited because Amazon puts all that extra shit in your clipboard when you share from the site.
I'll try that it could be the issue and https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iKbRAbGV49RMA thats what i got and i do own a spare adapter though i could try that
It would depend on the computer, for example, the newer Macbook Pros have very small SSDs so that wouldn't work. However, if it does come down to it, you could buy a USB 3.0 to SATA adapter and transfer the data to the new computer that way (something like this may do the trick).
I don't know why you'd use anything else now. A cable is only $12: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB3S2SAT3CB-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
This type of thing with carbon copy cloner wouldn't work? Not sure I follow.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB3S2SAT3CB-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
Why not get a normal hard-drive and something like this?
How are you buying it? Local person to person sale, store in person that sales used goods? online store? Online P2P ( like /r/hardwareswap or ebay)
If local p2p and you can psychically inspect the drive before buying it you could use something like this https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ to check if it working with any available computer. Running SMART or any other drive test tool.
If it a local store, if they are on the up and up they would probably provide proof of a working drive if you asked. Also warranties, guarantees and return polices are a good sign too.
Online store is harder but a legit store probably has warranties, guarantees or return polices. So at least if it doesn't work you can return it.
online P2P, you can ask for proof of the working drive. Also paying thru something that has good protection. I think /r/hardwareswap recommends Paypal Goods and Services ( but not paypal friends and family gift that has no protection) or google wallet.
Also with all but maybe local p2p paying with a card over cash will give you some recourse as well if all other options fail, thru doing a chargeback as a last resort. With local p2p often cash is king so that doesn't really work. Though some might take paypal or some other form of digital wallet which is nice too
Well I have an external hard drive. I backed up that first. Then I made the swap. Then with the HDD I used a cable like this to do the transfer. Worked just fine.
oh I see. I'll look into diskpart and also try this to plug into a mac and see if that might work. The Windows disk manager definitely sees the drive, but any time I try to delete a partition it just goes into "Not Responding" for an hour (that's how long I waited until I gave up).
Really appreciate the advice and good to know that not all is lost yet!
Will this also work? http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
Good info and presentation.
Curious, why the docking station instead of a USB 3 to SATA III cable?
one - use disk copy software to copy your existing hard drive data onto your new hard drive. Use Macrium Reflect Free version note: you may need a USB to SATA connector to connect your new drive to your computer.
two - Open your laptop, replace old drive with new drive.
three - replace all screws and plates.
four - boot up new computer!
Optional extra step: use your old hard drive and your new USB-SATA connector as an external drive
Let me help:
No, that one is data only. You need power. So you could get [this,] (https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=pd_sbs_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00HJZJI84&amp;pd_rd_r=KR6444MEA160MEPWCH63&amp;pd_rd_w=i7MKD&amp;pd_rd_wg=9oeST&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=KR6444MEA160MEPWCH63) which is powered off USB, or [this,] (https://www.amazon.com/iDsonix-U3102-Drive-Docking-Station/dp/B00FDLCTQO/ref=pd_sbs_147_25?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00FDLCTQO&amp;pd_rd_r=R4JVCFZ5TCDHZRCJFQ94&amp;pd_rd_w=OFjP8&amp;pd_rd_wg=7FxgU&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=R4JVCFZ5TCDHZRCJFQ94) which has wall power.
well the easiest thing is a simple cable like this with USB 3 it's pretty fast too.
just connect them to ps4, with an adapter
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
Hmm. Well, I'll try the SSD first.
Let's assume that it's a problem with the SSD. So, I buy a new one, and my mobo recognizes it fine. In order to get the files off of my old SSD, would a USB to SATA adapter like this work okay?
Ensure all your ports and gear are USB 3.0, then buy something like this: SATA->USB3 adapters aren't expensive:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503275696&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+sata+adapter
Protip: get a couple of these and samba share them with a raspberry pi 4.
If it's disk-checking, it's possible it's just a hard-drive issue. Have you been able to boot it long enough to check the hand-drive?
If not, do you have another computer you can plug it into (SATA to USB, if it uses SATA) in order to run the check?
Have you taken the CPU out and checked the pins? It's possible something rusted or grew in there which is interrupting the connection.
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Planning to turn this into external boot drive with sata to usb adapter for awhile. Will there be any trouble? Is there anything I should beware of?
For the most simple DIY.
If that doesn't work, you might have to manually install new OS and copy over your files...
The "screenshot" you are talking about is called an image. An image is like a giant file that you can copy and paste onto another hard drive. Later if your ssd becomes corrupt or something else happens to it, you can boot into the windows recovery and restore the image.
Go into the control panel and look up "backup and restore". Once you are in the "backup and restore" settings then you will see an option to create a system image on the left sidebar. You can click it and select the disk you want to save the image to. Once you are done windows should ask if you want to make a recovery disk. Make the recovery disk, and later if you need to restore the image you just made you can boot from the disk and restore your image.
You can find more info on creating and restoring the backup here.
Note: You made need equipment to connect the hdd to the computer with the ssd if they are not already connected. Something that connects USB to SATA like this would probably work.
Get something like this it's a sata to USB adapter. Assuming the hard drive is sata. I don't think there is a solution for m.2
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jymTCbYGGEARQ
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
Or is it really really dead?
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=pd_sim_e_1?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=08CE47ZEVW20FCRD9HTR
the one for 3.5"
Plug in the external drive and open up disk management (open the start menu and type in disk management) and see if anything other than the hard drive in your laptop is showing up...For example, you may see that it lists three disks, one of which would be your C: drive, another would be your DVD drive, and the third would be the external drive. If you see the external drive, but it doesn't have a drive letter associated with it, then that means that somehow or another your partition was deleted...your data should still be there though. It may be easiest if you post a picture of what you see when you open up disk management if you are uncertain as to whether or not the drive is there. If your portable hard drive doesn't show up in disk management, see below. If your drive does show up in disk management, report back, and I or someone else may be able to help you retrieve your data.
I had a portable WD drive die on me before, but it turned out to be a bad connection between the usb port and the hard drive itself. If you are otherwise unable to get the drive working, carefully remove the plastic shell to get the drive out. Once you have the bare drive out, you can then plug it into your laptop using something like this or if you have a desktop, you can just plug it in to one of the internal connections. Assuming that your problem exists somewhere in between the usb connection and the drive itself, this will allow you to retrieve your data.
If all else fails, or if you would rather not mess with this, you may consider taking it to a shop (or a computer savvy friend) to have it diagnosed. Though it wouldn't be free, it is likely that they would be able to help you, and it would save you from buying a special adapter just to test your drive.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/
10 bucks, you don't need the crazy ORICO thing since both your drives are SATA.
2.5 and 3.5 SATA use the same connector.
And as for Rule2, /r/TechSupport next time.
Something like this?
https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-3-0-Inch-UASP-SATA-Converter-USB3S2SAT3CB/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527436237&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=sata+to+usb+3.0
Just a simple SATA to USB cable. Not sure if there would be enough power to drive the burner but it should read just fine.
If I were working on this problem in our tech shop, I would start by plugging your external hard drive into another computer to see if it is recognized there instead. If that failed, I would plug it into a Mac.
If that also failed, then my first thought is that the external drive's USB adapter is no good. I would see if it is possible to open the external hard drive case and use a new USB to SATA adapter to plug the drive directly into a computer. For this step, you would need a phillips head screwdriver and a USB to SATA adapter, something end-users usually don't have handy. They are inexpensive, at least. Something like $15. https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB3S2SAT3CB-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526618801&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+sata+adapter
Make sure you don't crack open the drive itself. If you see torx screws (star shaped) then do not unscrew them.
If that wasn't an option, then we're getting into data recovery territory. For freeware recovery tools, I like to recommend Recuva. https://www.ccleaner.com/recuva Get that installed, plug your external drive in, and see if Recuva can see the physical drive. If so, then it may be able to undelete your data.
And lastly, and I realize this advice is too late given the circumstances, but in the future, it might be a good idea to keep a second copy of your data in a separate location. Losing data is heartbreaking -- it happened to me in the late 90's and that's all it took for me to start backing up regularly.
The hard drive is a separate component from the motherboard. Assuming you can remove it (I wouldn't be surprised if Apple computers have them soldered down), you can use this to connect to a working computer and retrieve your files - https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB3S2SAT3CB-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/
I'd recommend getting an external USB to sATA adapter like this model:
https://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB3S2SAT3CB-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84?sa-no-redirect=1
I have some variation of this which is very helpful however this does require plugging the drive into a different PC. To mitigate this boot the PC off a live Ubuntu disk (DVD or USB) and use the file manager built in to copy files to another external drive like a flash drive.
Pull the drive out of the laptop, boot the PC to the live ubuntu image, connect the drive it to the adapter, plug it into the PC, and pull files via the file manager. You can then use built in disk tools to format the drive ready for reinstall. You don't need to DBAN it but could if you wanted to. A single format is probably fine.
Once done, with all files on a new drive, shutdown and unplug then use the media creation tool to get a current installation media for Windows. If you are using Windows 7 it might be complicated to find media.
hi,
try to jiggle on the cable, it could be the usb port on the WD case.
You ca open the case(warranty lost) and plug-in the HDD direclty on but you need a cable or a new external case 2.5" .
https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-USB3-0-External-Enclosure-Supported/dp/B01M08LCXW/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_lp_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=5J3GQ5190F3ZDAK6FJX9
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB3S2SAT3CB-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
Data recovery needs a stable connection from hdd.
https://www.easeus.com/resource/hard-disk-data-recovery.htm
that is NOT an SSD drive, imho that's one of the cheaper/slower drives you can buy. just because it's branded doesn't make it ideal :) remember ANY drive works fine.
so you're locking the price point at around $90 no problem. that's what I was referring to in my original post... HDs get much more capacity for the same money, SSDs are a lot faster.
Here are some ~$90 SSD on Amazon, I just searched for "usb3 ssd 240GB":
https://www.amazon.com/MyDigitalSSD-240GB-SuperSpeed-Portable-Support/dp/B00EZ2FRP2
https://www.amazon.com/PNY-Elite-240GB-Portable-Solid/dp/B01GQPXBQC
https://www.amazon.com/KINGSHARE-USB3-0-External-Portable-Support-Silver/dp/B077FV4DDH
anything along those lines should work.. those are self contained SSD drives with a USB enclosure so the drive is more protected. Personally I got one of these which would let me connect any SATA (the data connector) drive to usb: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB3S2SAT3CB-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
and then bought a nice fast 240GB SSD drive when it went on sale... this deal is already over but here's an example:
https://slickdeals.net/f/11538691-240gb-crucial-bx300-sata-2-5-solid-state-drive-58-40-free-shipping
or this: https://slickdeals.net/f/11535383-patriot-burst-2-5-sata-iii-internal-ssd-240gb-55-120gb-36-free-shipping?src=SiteSearch
so theoretically if you got the drive for around $50-60 and the $10 cable you saved around $20-30 from your $90 price point. all depends on how much you care about having a nice enclosure. Personally I have no problem sitting the raw drive attached by cable on my xbox in my entertainment center it's pretty secure. If you have kids or dogs or the xbox is exposed I'd get one in an enclosure
.
When you finally get a drive and plug it in to your Xbox, the Xbox should prompt you asking what you want to do with the drive... if not just go into settings / system / storage. You need to tell the Xbox that you want to use it for GAMES (as opposed to just media) so it will need to format the drive. At that point, you can move games (via the Manage Game dialog) from wherever it is currently installed to the external drive. Since it's Windows, there's also a "default install location" you can change if you want things you download to automatically go the external drive.
This is the adapter: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00HJZJI84/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
That's a thought I also had. I can't really answer it tho. Its connected to a USB 3.0 Port. Where can I get information about its power delivery? Didn't find much in the motherboards manual. SSD works fine with the adapter. Case is the Crystal 460x from Corsair. Same behaviour when connecting directly to the motherboards USB
Hey my fellow pcmr mates,
quick question
can a product like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
work for my 2.5inch harddrive?
can the usb even power up the harddrive?
my hdd is this
http://www.notebookparts.com/hitachi-500-gb-hdd-hard-drive-sata-5400rpm-h2t500854s/
If you have another Mac with either FireWire 800 or Thunderbolt 2 (depending on the model of your borked Mac - can't really see from the GIF) you connect the two with an appropriate cable and use Target Disk Mode to grab the files you need from it for safe keeping. From there, you can use recovery mode to reinstall macOS with the peace of mind knowing your files are safe.
Alternatively, if you don't have another Mac, you can simply try reinstalling the OS in recovery without backing up first, as I'm fairly certain that will retain your personal files by default provided you don't format the drive yourself (the installer will not do that).
Or, again depending on your Mac, you might be able to remove its 2.5" drive by removing some screws on the back like this and attach it to a USB to SATA cable like this one to read the files on another Mac. This won't work on Retina MacBook Pros because they use a proprietary drive that can't easily (or at least cheaply) be adapted to an external device. Good luck!
Hi, can someone help me out with some crouton stuff? So I have a C720 and a spare 2,5'' ssd and wanted to use it for crouton, but i figured that it wouldn't perform as fast as in the internal ssd. My question is, would something like this be worth it for the usb 3.0 if I install some steam games / other software? What filesystem should I format it in? ext4 or something else?
I'm on Xbox, but I recently got these to use as an external drive:
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G3KRZBX
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84/
&#x200B;
With all the fast-travelling I do in the game, it's insane how much time I am saving now. After logging into the game (which is also much faster), loading anything rarely takes longer than a few seconds. It was definitely worth the $40.
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Having a smaller external SSD works fine for me since I can easily just move games I'm actively playing onto the SSD and then back onto the internal drive when needed. I only have 3-4 games with annoying load times anyway and they all fit on the SSD currently.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84
I probably can't explain it from my phone on the mobile reddit app. I just spent an hour with an intern last week going over this. But he researched how to make a bootable macrium thumb drive on his own so i didnt have to.
That's why i say the samsung data migration software might be the simplest. Plus a usb to sata cable.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HJZJI84/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1517929532&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=usb+sata
Ok so if I'm understanding correctly I can just connect one of these (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HJZJI84/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1483471185&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;pi=SL75_QL70&amp;amp;keywords=startech+usb+3.0+to+2.5+sata+iii+hard+drive+adapter+cable+with+uasp), run the Acronis software to clone the drive. Then replace the hdd with the ssd and it should boot up completely normal into the windows login screen? Thank you for the info
There is nothing rugged about rugged HDDs. Typically, prepackaged external drives use the worst OEM drives possible. If you have to work on an HDD, get a good bare drive and put it in a good, ventilated case.
Better, however, to get a Samsung 850 and a USB3 -> SATA cable or ext 2.5" case. You don't need external power for these, just plug n go.
OR... get an msata Samsung 850 and appropriate adapter. I keep something like this with me all the time.
What about this?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Is this the same as what you said, just minus the enclosure?
Ta da: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HJZJI84/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487700651&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=sata+to+usb&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41RlR-Q1siL&amp;ref=plSrch
I bought this https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01F9G46Q8 and https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00HJZJI84
the UASP is the important bit for utilising the speed of the ssd.
I also did a full ntfs format of it on my pc and checked if the firmware needed updating before I plugged it in my xbox1 reformatting and copying the games over, hope this helps, John
Wow, nice job. I don't have the skills to do that so I'll probably buy one from aliexpress. I have a spare ssd and a usb3-sata3 cable (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1); if it works, it'll be messy and if not, I'll have to find a powered usb hub. But I really like how everything is compact in your build. It took me awhile to realize that the WD PiDrive powered both the drive and the rpi. Really clean!
You could try unplugging some of your peripherals to see if that changes anything. Can hook the drive up and run diagnostics in another computer?
Had a similar issue recently and this is the only thing that fixed it. Had to borrow a flatmates laptop and install win 10 to a USB drive with the media creation tool from the MS website. Now it's imaged with Macrium Reflect so hopefully I won't have to deal it again.
This bad boy right here was a life saver:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HJZJI84/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499434877&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=hdd+usb+adapter&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41RlR-Q1siL&amp;ref=plSrch
Do you have an external USB to HDD/SATA reader? This is the perfect time to backup your files somewhere. If you don't have it, you should get one, it's very handy not only when diagnosing boot errors. I've got this exact model, it has been working great since two years ago.
Edit: grammar.
I don't know if this is a good solution for you, but if you already have an SSD that you aren't using, you can get one of these. I don't know how well they work but it seems well reviewed. Looking at how reliable and durable SSDs are now, the only thing I would worry about is the connector on the SSD and how long it will last.
You could take out the hard drive and use something such as this to plug it into another computer and it will show up just like a USB thumb drive(assuming that the problem is not the hard drive failing).
*this may require you to boot into a Linux live cd if the hard drive is failing/is the problem
If it is the hard drive failing(less likely, typically the hard drive would be making unusual sounds, screeching loud ticking, etc.)you could still try the above idea but that may hurt the hard drive more. If the data is externally valuable it the best solution would be a professional data recovery company (these can run into the thousands of dollars)
You could also try to take it to a local computer repair shop and ask for their opinion on it.
The first idea is probably fine tho.
I have recovered data with the first idea before.
You can try pulling out the hard drive and using this but that's pretty much all you can do. Make sure you plug it into another Mac. Windows can't read the file system Mac uses unless you have a special utility.
This cable is probably the best/most low profile option.http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
Keep in mind that an SSD won't make a huge difference in situations like Crucible as you're still waiting on all the other players before the match starts, but it does make a substantial difference loading into any other activity, especially when you're solo.
If I get the adaptor card you suggested, can I connect that to this and get the data out with it?
Very likely to be the cable. HDD and SSD use the same cables, yes, assuming its a SATA drive. You should check them on another machine to be sure. Replacing those cables won't be much of a problem though.
Or buy a SATA USB adapter to check them. I just bought this one recently:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
For the drive, you want a 500GB, 1TB, or 2TB 2.5" HDD or SSD. There's loads of choice out there. An SSD will give you considerably faster loading times in many games, but obviously it'll cost you more.
You'll also need the tools to open the console and a USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA adapter so that you can hook the drive up to a computer. I bought THIS and THIS respectively.
I followed the instructions in THIS thread, which includes links to full video guides on YouTube.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00HJZJI84 provides enough power for sata ssd or some 2.5 disks, but if you're mobile you don't want those anyway. for wifi/bt best bet is the m.2 card, the one I have isn't supported but I just use ethernet.
You typically get a SATA to USB converter. One end is USB-A, the other end is SATA. This is a common solution for bare external drives.
This is the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84
Hopefully the link Works
Hows this one ? I dont care for looks I'll just hide it away
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-2-5in-Adapter-Converter-SAT32M225/dp/B00ITJ7U20
Or this cheap one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B018ATXKLI/ref=pd_aw_sim_147_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=CQFY5MBHNM7DHNB2KJKW
M.2 SSD have two flavors:
SATA: You can use an adapter to a normal sata connector, then use a USB adapter. https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-2-5in-Adapter-Converter-SAT32M225/dp/B00ITJ7U20
PCI-E: You cannot use an adapter to SATA. You would have to get a PCI-E M.2 adapter you can install in a computer. https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-M-2-Adapter-Profile-Express/dp/B01FU9JS94
2.5" SATA SSD, USB no issue.
mSATA SSD. You need a mSATA to SATA adapter. https://www.amazon.com/Syba-mSATA-2-5-Inch-Adapter-SY-ADA40050/dp/B007PPZ2I8
I sure wouldn't use M.2 to USB, too slow.
I don't think I'd "clone" to an external, but you could choose to "image" it to another drive (you could keep it as a backup, compressed that way), or just buy this and duplicate it M.2 to M.2 via SATA, which would be muuuuch faster than USB.
Not exactly it, but similar concept.
You can use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-2-5in-Adapter-Converter-SAT32M225/dp/B00ITJ7U20
Yes it will.
They're talking about an adapter that would allow you to use nvme on an m.2 interface, which doesn't exist.
Well if you need to pay a 40$ stocking fee, screw returning it. Buy one of these: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-2-5in-Adapter-Converter-SAT32M225/dp/B00ITJ7U20
Yes, you need an adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-2-5in-Adapter-Converter-SAT32M225/dp/B00ITJ7U20
OP already has one M.2 drive occupying the slot on his motherboard.
He would need to buy one of these adaptors:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-2-5in-Adapter-Converter-SAT32M225/dp/B00ITJ7U20
It increases price and does not reduce clutter at all.
it really depends on what the actual drive is. I can't see the actual drive after all. if it's a nvme drive you will want to look for something like this, which you can just get an sata -> usb adapter for to plug that into.
Oh . . you may be confusing two different things:
an M.2 drive has multiple form factors, generally the width in mm (22) by the length (40, 60, or 80), combined to be 2260 or 2280, etc.
When I refered to a 2.5" converter, I was talking about a standard laptop HDD/SSD. HDD come in 3.5" (desktop) or 2.5" (laptop). widths.
You can get an M.2 -> 2.5" form factor converter where you dock the M.2 in the 2.5" HDD "case" and use a normal SATA cable to connect to it. I ended up doing that since I couldn't get the M.2 drive to work in the M.2 slot at all.
Yes, there are plenty of M.2 to SATA adapters. Ex.
M.2
something like http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-2-5in-Adapter-Converter-SAT32M225/dp/B00ITJ7U20
probbly
Looks like the plastic piece at the end of the ribbon cones off to reveal SATA powr and data. If not the actual drive inside is a SATA m.2 drive. Carefully extract it and place it into an adapter like this StarTech M.2 NGFF SSD to 2.5in SATA Adapter Converter (SAT32M225) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ITJ7U20/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QmKMBbXADHHGM
It doesn't have a M.2 slot, so it's not possible. I haven't heard of any M.2 to 2.5" SATA cases.
Edit: Oh, they are actually a thing: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-2-5in-Adapter-Converter-SAT32M225/dp/B00ITJ7U20
I'm not sure of an adapter right off the top of my head that will fit into a laptop.
You will, however take a speed hit. You wont get speeds of NVME, only SATA. It will still feel responsive and fast, however.
Here is a link to what you may be looking for.
StarTech.com M.2 SSD to 2.5in SATA Adapter - M.2 NGFF to SATA Converter - 7mm - Open-Frame Bracket - M2 Hard Drive Adapter (SAT32M225) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ITJ7U20/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_F89PDbXZ726GP
I added another hard drive and a disc drive to my pc, can I just get one of these to extend my power or should I get another cable to go directly from the power supply? If so where are those - Or is it just one -power-to-one-SATA and then I'll need another splitter anyway?
Hmm, I use something like this on a Corsair 750D but the cables on mine have smaller spaces than the product page on Amazon so they're a better fit for drive caddies. (the one I used I got from a local computer store)
Could you use this which comes in a 2 pack: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Pack-Power-Splitter/dp/B012BPLW08/
https://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E/
Thank you so much for the response and info!
I saw this review on Amazon. What do you think?
That person also links to the following products. How essential/necessary do you think they would be to the node-804? I've read some other review that don't highlight suggestions as the review above does. What are your thoughts?
Unfortunately I'm in a strange situation where I don't have as much time as I'd like to review/research for the absolute best route to go -- and I'm in need of making a decision very soon.
I'm totally cool with building, although I must say that I'm not as experienced as I would like -- however, I will have time on my hands to learn what is needed to build the setup I decide to purchase.
Any and all info/feedback is most welcome! Thanks!
The adapter cable only splits the power from the PSU. All the HDDs got their own sata cable to the motherboard so they all show up as induvidual disks. They look like this.
Molded sata power connecters are no good. You want a cable like this https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E/
That's what I was initially thinking of. But I read some comments of people that had problems with that kind of solution messing up their drives. Maybe it was in the past and things have gotten better? Maybe due to the quality of components? I didn't wanna risk it. Plus, it's almost the same cost as a SATA 3 card.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537284746&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=sata+splitter+power+cable
That's the most recent thing I found on Amazon that seemed like it could work for cheap. To just disconnect the whole extension instead of the drives themselves. Read they were safe too.
are you looking for something like this 4x sata
or molex to sata
if your looking for something that connects direct to the PSU then youd need to let us know make and model of the PSU but usually the best place to start looking would be on the PSU manufacturers website
edit: if your PSU only has one or two SATA\molex connectors this will usually indicate the PSU is very low voltage adding more drives than the PSU can supply with the cables provided could cause stability issues
One of these guys would split the SATA power for you.
What do you think about those here?
Just buy some cheap Y splitters. We use them all the time.
StarTech.com 6in SATA Power Y Splitter Cable Adapter - M/F - Power splitter - SATA power (M) to SATA power (F) - 6 in - PYO2SATA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002N2EHVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_d1hXDbBGRA2YX
Ooh even cooler 1 to 4!
StarTech.com 4X SATA Power Splitter Adapter Cable (PYO4SATA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0086OGN9E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_J3hXDb01TS76J
Awesome, thank you for the detailed response.
So if I'm doing my math correctly, one SATA cable from the PSU would have four connectors. Splitting it with the 4x SATA splitter would put me at 7 connectors total. Let's say I run a high estimate of 9W per HD, that's still only 63W which is well under the 192W calculation. I was thinking about running a blu-ray drive on the same line which would still only be (9W6)+30W=84W total. So I would be safe in my instance is that right?
The AMP connector route you mentioned would still be well under since the molex to 4x SATA would be the only thing connected to that cable. 9W4=36W or (9W*3)+30W (BD drive)=57W.
Would you recommend one route over the other (SATA to 4x SATA vs molex to 4x SATA)? Looking at either one of these guys..
https://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E/
https://smile.amazon.com/Monoprice-108794-24-Inch-15-Pin-Female/dp/B009GULFJ0/
Thanks!
I've used this Startech Sata power adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520610333&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=startech+sata+power&amp;dpID=413ErN49%252BDL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
wow, thanks duly noted. I been using these: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482938279&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=sata+power+splitter
how nervous would you be with sata power splitters? startech's not too bad a brand right? ....RIGHT? haha
Can use this to split out the sata end.
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E/
Cables like these that give you 4 SATA power connectors out of one molex connector, I've seen one with 6x SATA before, but I can't find it anymore, I hope I will. And then just a PSU with enough molex connectors, I guess. I think there might be some aftermarket cables for modular PSUs too, I don't know, it would make sense... But you could probably use more than one PSU to power all the drives, maybe that's a good idea anyway.
If you already have a standard SATA cable plugged into a hard drive, unplug it and use a splitter like this 4x power splitter. Try some google searches for the model # and the port # (r11) and maybe throw in "hdd/odd" for good measure. You could also call your manufacturer (Dell?) and ask them.
Would something like this work? https://primenow.amazon.com/dp/B0086OGN9E?qid=1503347081&amp;m=A26W2L43XMH2BQ&amp;sr=1-0&amp;ref_=pn_sr_sg_0_img_A26W2L43XMH2BQ#customerReviews
Its on Prime now so I could get it in a few hours
I couldn’t access your image.
Here’s a related link regarding your port question
https://www.dell.com/community/Enterprise-Client/Dell-Precision-T3600-T5600-how-do-I-add-drives-to-the-other-4/m-p/4016279/highlight/true#M3616
Here’s a link for sata power splitting.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E
For any builders running out of room in their cases.... here is what I did, worked out nicely:
4x hdds in three optical bays
https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-RSV-3-5-Inch-Cage-RASA-11001/dp/B005FHHOXE/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504617542&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=4+cage
4x sata power splitter:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E/ref=sr_1_20?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504617639&amp;sr=1-20&amp;keywords=4+sata+cable
It's alright to use sata power splitters, but the type you linked are known to literally melt and burn. Don't get the type where the cables are molded into the connector. You can identify them by the cable running straight into the connector, rather than at a right angle. You want a splitter that uses sata connectors with crimp on taps. Those are solid. Like This.
I've actually been using two of these (https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-PYO4SATA-Power-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B0086OGN9E/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505935424&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=sata+to+sata+splitter) for the past two years in my NAS. I've got 9 hard drives and 2 SSDs powered from a 450W PSU, and haven't had a single issue at all with connectors feeling hot, PSU shutting down, etc. This is over an extended period, with drives being accessed concurrently at maximum speeds.
If you have at least some sata power, you can get 1sata-to-4sata power splitters like this: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E/
Due to how they have to be made (crimped, not molded) they should be fine.
I have two or three of these. I've had one for a couple years and the others just over a year. Haven't had any problems with them and them seem solid.
I'm powering 5 old Hitachi 2TB drives and 3 WD 8TB reds.
StarTech 4X SATA Power Splitter Adapter Cable https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0086OGN9E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Al9OCbBR56GD1
Ok then. But it's pretty easy and I've never screwed that up either. You could also just use a Molex to SATA adapter, works just as well. Or a SATA power splitter and cut the 3.3v wire.
for what its worth i used these and didnt have to cover the contact https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3DFOCAB4KY1CQ&amp;keywords=sata+power+splitter&amp;qid=1556395000&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=sata%2Caps%2C130&amp;sr=8-5
I more or less found what I was looking for. Helps when you know it is called sata power and not hard drive power cable.
But safe or not? Sorry if mobile link, on phone
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0086OGN9E/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ok0.ub17EJJZX
Pretty much no power supply is going to have enough connectors for a substantial number of drives. That's hardly important, though. 4:1 or 5:1 splitters are cheap and easy to come by. (That one is $6.69 right now.)
Also, one of the advantages of using a chassis with a backplane is that it saves you dealing with an enormous wiring harness.
You may, however, eventually run into other limitations of your power supply. (This is unlikely with 15 drives and a 650W PSU, however.) For example, how many rails does your power supply have, and what are their individual maximum wattages? (3.5" hard drives primary draw from the 12V rails.) There may be less than the full 650W available to your hard drives.
You will also see large current spikes at boot, when all of the drives try to spin up at the same time. The machine may fail to boot if this draw exceeds the power supply's capacity (again, either on those particular rails or overall). This can be mitigated by using staggered spin-up, which requires either controller/OS support or MacGyvering. (One of the pins in the SATA connector tells the drive not to spin up immediately when power is applied.)
All of that having been said, though, unless you have other complaints about your PSU, a few cables is probably the right fix.
If you're dead set on replacing it, then you should be most interested in power supplies with high efficiency at the load that you expect. (Do some math but also take some measurements, and then look at the PSU's datasheet. The single efficiency number that will be advertised on the product's website or box assumes that it is almost fully loaded.) Power supplies are also differentiated by features like active PFC (power factor correction).
If you're looking for a specific suggestion, I've had good luck with the EarthWatts series.
Good luck!
If you have an existing SATA power cable you can use a splitter similar to this one they also make them for the Molex power connectors
I did get more than 4 drives installed, I have 4 in the hot swap bays and one SSD that is sitting inside the case that I run my windows server on. The SSD is just hooked up to a SATA port on the motherboard, as for power I bought a sata x1 -> sata x4 connector and I am using that to power the drive. The system treats it just like a normal drive at this point and it's working just like I want it to.
I bought a H700 on ebay for ~$100 and just swapped it out and it came with a new cable that just hooked up to the back on the backplate on the hot swap bays. Raid controller takes care of my 4x4TB drives set in raid 5 with ease, no issues there.
I think I hit all your questions, feel free to let me know if this is confusing.
I've done servers with cables like that first one (though from Monoprice, I think), and they work fine. I used power cables like this, though you may have to find ones that bend the right directions or something for your use case.
I think that red/black cable is to hook your SAS card up to the board, or lights, or something so you the blinken lights on the front of your server. Not really necessary.
you buy this cable: 4x SATA splitter cable
each of the adapters actually has a plastic housing on the back that you snap on and off. You unsnap the housings and literally rip out the 3.3v wire (the 1st wire, on the notch/elbow side). Snap the housings back on, and done.
These are the ones I was thinking of getting:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0086OGN9E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Looks like they are the better option you suggested?
yeah, i ordered a crimp style.
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-108794-24-Inch-15-Pin-Female/dp/B009GULFJ0/
Personally I'd recommend the monoprice version instead since they have a lifetime warranty on all their cables:
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=8794
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-108794-24-Inch-15-Pin-Female/dp/B009GULFJ0
And don't worry too much if you read about how molex-sata adapters are fire hazards, that really only seems to apply to the kind where the wire is molded directly into the plastic sata connector (which is not the case here).
I used these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GULFJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_q.hvCbWSYD5B5
uh oh, they look crimped https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009GULFJ0/
Do you know if this is a "good" style? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009GULFJ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I've used a Molex to Sata breakout cable, havn't had any issues with the 8TB ones I'm currently using. May not be an ideal solution for a large number of drives but for my use case it was as easy as plug and boot. All of this assuming you have molex avail of course. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009GULFJ0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thank you very much! I changed the case edition to the one you suggested and found myself a drive that fits in there. (Found this one)
You mentioned I might need a slimline to sata converter cable. Do I need this one or that one? (It's still the same mainboard as above (Link)
Yep, that's the kind of cable you'd need, here's one in stock in a bit of a different form factor https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-6-Inch-Slimline-Adapter-SLSATAADAP6/dp/B009JXKQ9O/ref=pd_sim_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=BVWF9961S8P8GQR4R25D, you would then plug in both SATA data to the motherboard and power to the PSU.
Note you won't have a place to mount it in a regular case either, so unless you're going to figure out your own mount solution you'd need a bay adapter such as that https://www.amazon.com/Syba-Adapter-Optical-Drive-Components/dp/B0081IOSOW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510203832&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=5.25+slim+bay+adapter
Can also convert to external with one of these https://www.amazon.com/Firstcom-External-Enclosure-Optical-Blu-Ray/dp/B0151PHSNA/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510204058&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=usb+slim+odd
The cheaper option is to just get a regular desktop drive.
It is a LG Slim Blu-Ray Combo Drive - SATA CT40N. Taking a look into the "frequently bought together" section, looks like I'll be needing this adapter. Thanks for the help.
hey there, I looked into it a little, and I found out how you can hook up the ODD I have (Apple MBP Drive) to a standard setup, you just need this.
I still have the ODD for sale if interested.
EDIT: Or a connector like this
I recently put in a Seasonic Focus Plus 850 W Platinum without any major problems. There were 2 things I encountered 1) next to the Pcie slot is an 8/4 connector that’s labeled CPU/GFX. luckily the Seasonic came with several breakaway cables 6+2, 4+4, etc. So I didn’t have a problem having a cable to match; and 2) my mini bd player has only a mini sized sata that fits. And that’s NOT in the Seasonic box. But (simply) I bought a power jack/mini sata combo from Amazon. You just plug the mini into the bd player and the normal sized cables in the other end.
All worked the first time (although wire dressing is a mess with all those netted/heat shrunk cables).
In case you have a bd/dvd and want to change out the PSU, the mini power/sata cable is here:
StarTech.com 6” inline SATA to SATA Adapter with Power - Slim SATA (F) to SATA (M) - Slimline Serial ATA to SATA
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009JXKQ9O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lu68Bb7FKA8S9
Ah, perfect, thanks, I didn't realize it was called Slimline. I've just ordered one of these, so I think that should work: Startech Slimline SATA to SATA Adapter
Oooh, I found something! You'll have to get it 3D printed though:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2824941
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If that's not your kind of thing, maybe 2 of these cut this in half:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756MZTPG/
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And add one of these per drive:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009JXKQ9O/
It's a slimline drive, which uses a physically smaller connector. You will need an adapter, such as: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Slimline-SATA-Adapter-Power/dp/B009JXKQ9O/
Unfortunately as @atomks86 said, you need some kind of adapter for it to be feasible as 3.5 drives need more power than 2.5
Update: something like this also works (https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Drive-Adapter-Converter-External/dp/B00BIE996S/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519514169&amp;sr=1-14&amp;keywords=3.5+drive+adapter), but is far more uglier XD
If your storage drive is not installed as C: during the reinstall then it should work. You will need to reinstall Windows to a C: drive, then later physically attach your storage drive as D:. I just use a no-hassle USB external drive for this. You can also buy an adapter for about $30 to make your internal drive into a USB drive. Get an adapter that comes with a power supply. Like this, which is for SATA, PATA, and IDE all in one. This allows me to use the same data drive for many years with no fuss as I get new PCs. The USB support on desktop PCs will be here for quite a while I think.
Get the right one for your drive. 2.5" drives don't have to have an external power supply But I recommend it to reduce frustration. 3.5" drives do need an external power supply.
Thanks for the reply.
Do you think this one work?
Typically three wires; common, +5V, and +12V. See the power supply that comes with this.
You could use two separate power supplies, and just plug them in separately. Or use a 12V supply and a buck converter to generate 5V from that.
I expect that the motor won't spin up without the electronics telling it to. The electronics can spin down the drive at the host's request, so it likely needs to be running to control the motor.
Buy this. https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Drive-Adapter-Converter-External/dp/B00BIE996S/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522989853&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=hard+drive+adapter
It'll allow you to move everything over. You're going to have to remove the hard drive from your old MacBook to do it, but that's really simple.
If you have another computer you can use a sata to USB adapter to plug the HDD into it and get the data off then wipe it and reinstall windows.
AGPtek SATA/PATA/IDE Drive to USB 2.0 Adapter Converter Cable for Hard Drive Disk HDD 2.5" 3.5", Compatible with USB 1.1/2.0/3.0, With External AC Power Adapter Included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BIE996S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2nrMBbDX0BYKJ
This will allow you to plug one of the HDDs as a USB device.
On Toshiba's website it's listed as a 2.5 IDE.
https://support.toshiba.com/support/staticContentDetail?contentId=638398&amp;isFromTOCLink=false.
This should work
AGPtek SATA/PATA/IDE Drive to USB 2.0 Adapter Converter Cable for Hard Drive Disk HDD 2.5" 3.5" with External AC Power Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BIE996S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zvL2Bb4T6SAY1
You can use a USB adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BIE996S/
The small area between the data cable and power cable should be set as Cable Select mode (CS) with a jumper: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HMJ5QL9/
you could get something like this, I used a similar one in the past and it worked without a hitch. And it won't fry anything as long as you plug both in the same extension cord.
Thanks! Am going to try this: https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Drive-Adapter-Converter-External/dp/B00BIE996S/
I have powered many drives "outside" the case. They don't care if they are powered and the computer is not. This is akin to powering on an external drive, but not connecting it to usb. Using the power from something like this: https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Drive-Adapter-Converter-External/dp/B00BIE996S/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sata+external+power&qid=1559323673&s=gateway&sr=8-3 is what you need.
Rule 4.
On a sidenote, you need this: https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Drive-Adapter-Converter-External/dp/B00BIE996S/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1540892612&sr=8-6&keywords=ide+to+usb
This is what I have at home: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BIE996S/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B00BIE996S It lets me connect with IDE drives and pull the data off of them. It's not very expensive. An alternative, if you have an old hard drive enclosure sitting around, is to take it apart and put the old drive in the enclosure.
How about a usb adapter? Get one of these to normal 3.5 ide, https://www.amazon.com/Micro-SATA-Cables-Adapter-Converter/dp/B004CS4NRW
then a ide to usb adapter like this one https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Drive-Adapter-Converter-External/dp/B00BIE996S/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=VQ9AS5K7ZGA4603QK6EN
I would go for one of these instead:
https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Drive-Adapter-Converter-External/dp/B00BIE996S/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=RC1TW0ZABBSN9K1A1WG5
Granted it only does 2.5A, this should support ~46 LEDs at all white max brightness. IIRC the LNP is limited to 4.5A, which is a limit of the SATA plug. There might be other options too.
You will want sata to USB with power for the 3.5in HDD.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BIE996S
https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Drive-Adapter-Converter-External/dp/B00BIE996S/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504967360&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=usb+to+pata%2Fide
this should work with a PATA IDE HDD right?
I have some old hard drives, and I want to see what they have on them before I get rid of them. I don't know what connectors they use, and I'm hoping to find something for relatively cheap if possible. I don't think I have anything for them already. They are 2 Seagate Barracuda 7200.7 160 GB and 1 Western Digital Protege 20 GB. Any help is appreciated!
Here is a link to images of the HD's and their connections: http://imgur.com/a/voGHU
This item was suggested but I want to either confirm that this will work or get other suggestions. Thanks!
Get one of these https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Drive-Adapter-Converter-External/dp/B00BIE996S/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521585067&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=ide+to+usb&amp;dpID=51ap6s9o3qL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Plug it up, get your data off and throw it in a drawer somewhere. if you computer often... youll probably need it again someday.
However, if I understand what that means, but I'm sure there is a problem when something like this everything-to-USB adapter.
I have no experience with those adapters, but you're looking for something like this, since they are PATA drives.
I would pull the drives out. Desktops are easy, laptops a little more challenging because sometimes they are under the keyboards. There is a cable that provides power and data to the larger desktop drives and power over the data cable to the laptop drives. You plug it into your working machine via USB and it mounts as drive D or E on your working machine and then you can copy everything off.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BIE996S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_vhzcBbE6PP9AN
Buy this. It will let you hook that hard drive up via usb. It has miles power you can plug into a wall socket so you don't have to mess with your internal psu.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BIE996S/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511903393&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=ide+to+usb&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51ap6s9o3qL&amp;ref=plSrch
Building in the Node 304 case. Front fans running off a 2-way splitter from a mobo header (other mobo header in use by CPU cooler). Rear fan powered via molex cable from PSU.
Plan to fill this thing with drives eventually (6 HDD, 2 SSD), which requires 8x SATA connections over 2 cables from the PSU. This will preclude running the rear fan on molex directly from the PSU.
I had thought to use a SATA power splitter (e.g.) and a SATA-molex adapter (e.g.) to power the rear fan via a SATA connector (perhaps one that is used by an SSD).
I've read horror stories of converters going bad and melting (although those seem to tend towards molex-SATA converters and not the opposite). In that light I wonder if I should instead run the rear fan via 3-way splitter from the mobo header and avoid converters altogether. Any suggestions?
This plus this.
That strip looks like it has a pass through to connect multiple molex devices. Male and female. Your power supply should have a female molex. If it doesn't, there are converter cables.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GK8SYCW/ref=asc_df_B00GK8SYCW5247535/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;creative=394997&amp;creativeASIN=B00GK8SYCW&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=167140037427&amp;hvpos=1o1&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=11695581960176495395&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9033002&amp;hvtargid=pla-338127622764
Like I said, finding out what these things are called is the hardest part. Apperantly what you are looking for is Molex LP4 power connector and a 12 pin SATA connector.
https://www.amazon.com/12in-Molex-Power-Cable-Adapter/dp/B00GK8SYCW
Search for those connector kits and you should be good.
All that being said, you might just be best getting a molex extension cable :
https://www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-4-Pin-Molex-Sleeved-Extension/dp/B0014XDBIA?th=1&amp;psc=1
what do you mean your PSU didn't come with a molex cable? what model PSU? If it doesn't have a Molex cable, you would need a SATA power to Molex adapter. If you aren't powering it, that's why its not working.
https://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-com-LP4SATAFM12-12-Inch-Molex-Adapter/dp/B00GK8SYCW/ref=smi_www_rco2_go_smi_g2609328962?_encoding=UTF8&amp;*Version*=1&amp;*entries*=0&amp;ie=UTF8
You can use a sata to Molex adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/12in-Molex-Power-Cable-Adapter/dp/B00GK8SYCW
If you have a modular PSU check the box it might have the adapter.
Also some PSU will sneak a molex plug on a line that ends with a sata plug.
I recently bought a Samsung 850 evo and still need to buy a power cable. I made the mistake of buying a male-Sata to power cable when I needed a female-Sata to power cable. I don't want to buy another cable and have it end up being the wrong one. Would this work with a Corsair 750M? Thanks!
Sorry I misunderstood. I thought you needed power to the GPU. You can still convert your SATA plugs, just get SATA to Molex adapters.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-LP4SATAFM12-12-Inch-Molex-Adapter/dp/B00GK8SYCW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500042873&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=sata+to+molex
https://www.amazon.com/12in-Molex-Power-Cable-Adapter/dp/B00GK8SYCW
One of these?
If your PSU only has SATA power connectors, then you may need a SATA power to molex converter like this one.
It certainly possible to use an adapter like this one. However I generally advise against using them as most are extremely poor quality and are known to literally burst into flames. If you have the availability to add the modular molex cable back to your PSU always do that instead.
Awesome, thank you! That's what I needed, more ideas on how to implement this. Either molex or usb or direct pins, one of them is bound to work.
And I do agree, All-in-one PC's are a bitch to repair ... thankfully in the 3+ years of owning this one, this is the first time I've needed to open it up. :)
EDIT: I've just ordered a (slightly complex) solution from Amazon. This all-in-one only has one SATA power connector coming out of the PSU that goes to the HDD, so I'm going to convert that into Molex, then use a Molex adapter that has a three-pin sprout,, connect the new fan to that, and then reconvert the power connector back into SATA, to plug it back into the HDD.
I feel like as long as all of the connections are tight and I keep it all tied down, it should work just fine. It's a bit more complex than it would have been if there was a three-pin connector on the motherboard, but no such luck. What do you think?
Thanks again for your advice.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-LP4SATAFM12-12-Inch-Molex-Adapter/dp/B00GK8SYCW
SATA to Molex LP4 Power Cable Adapter
look for something like that if you need it right away... (local web store)
I think we are getting into dangerous territory with the various cable voltages/amperages. The 6-pin/8-pin connectors are typically used to deliver additional power to graphics cards.
If you don't have any other molex connectors coming from your power supply, you could try a molex Y splitter with one of your existing molex connectors, and then plug a molex to SATA adapter into the PCI-E card.
Also, if you have another PCI-E slot, you could try that.
I asked here before about checking if my SSD works or not, but I did some searching around and now I was wondering if I could use this: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84 to check my open box Samsung 850 Evo 500gb to see if it works or not? And also test it for any problems?
Edit: important to note that I do not have a PC to install this in, just my laptop that I don't want to use my SSD with. (I am building a PC soon)
Buy this:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-External-Aluminum-Enclosure/dp/B00E362W9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484077336&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=laptop+hard+drive+enclosure
and
https://www.amazon.com/Jakemy-Precision-Screwdriver-Electronics-Appliances/dp/B019ZSK57K/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484077395&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=screwdriver+set+small
Here is an altnerative to the case:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484077470&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=laptop+hard+drive
In all likleyhood the hard drive has gone bad.
They do that you know.
You want a laptop 2.5 inch hard drive. SATA is really the only choice for interface these days.
Now would be a great time to move up to an SSD. I have a laptop at home that is a bunch of years old. I put an SSD in it last year and it really added a lot of zip to it.
When you put the OS on it you can go ahead and put W8.1 on it, but the Free W10 upgrade is still running if you know where to get it from:
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/accessibility/windows10upgrade
What you would do is install 8.1 from the disks you have. Get the internet up, go to the desktop, don't bother with any updates (huge waste of time if you are just gonna follow through with W10) and go to that site I posted and follow there instructions.
Bonus points! Once you successfully do a W10 upgrade from W8 there is no more Windows key to worry about! Any future OS reinstall on this laptop Microsoft uses a unique identifier in the BIOS to do the validation.
If you have another computer, you may be able to take the hard drive out (assuming you only have data on there, no OS files) and plug it via an adapter like this. You can then download and move the driver files onto the hard drive and plug it back into your PC.
Like these people are saying though, you may be better off reinstalling Windows.
TL;DR - but made it through the first 3 paragraphs.
From that, I can say for certain that the drive is dead - the fact your system slows to a crawl once it is connected is a good identifier of this.
Now, I have had some luck in the past with the following steps:
The details behind this method is that when you freeze the drive, the components constrict slightly, providing some buffer space for the heads to move along the drive without contact. If this does not work for you, then your only option is to send it in for professional recovery. My method here is fairly "safe" from doing further damage to the drive, since, you know, the details behind the method.
BE CAREFUL the paper towel and air tight sealed bag is a must or you will get moisture in the drive during freezing - and this will mess it up good.
ALTERNATIVE (and you must be really good, and very precise)
Find another drive of the EXACT make and model of the drive that has failed. Dismantle it and swap the platters (alignment of the platters must be exact, and be careful not to damage the heads) The dead drive's platters with the good drive's components will allow you to recover the data - in fact, you can leave it like this since it's basically a new drive. This is essentially how professional data recovery is done (although they pull the platters and mount them on a special machine to read the raw data and recompile it)
What you're looking for is called a NAS or Network Attached Storage. These can be as simple as plugging a external HDD with a SATA to USB cable into a USB port in your router, to buying a multi HDD enclosure, to a diy NAS with some parts you may have laying around.
I started out with a cheap 2hdd Dlink enclosure similar to the one above but I now have a diy 6-disk 16Tb home server running FreeNAS as the operating system.
Maybe this?
https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-3-0-Inch-UASP-SATA-Converter-USB3S2SAT3CB/dp/B00HJZJI84
They have gadgets that can connect a drive (IDE/SATA/etc) to an adapter that gives you a USB connection - it basically makes a drive into a USB drive.
IDE to USB: https://www.amazon.com/Vantec-CB-ISATAU2-Supports-2-5-Inch-5-25-Inch/dp/B000J01I1G
SATA to USB: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB3S2SAT3CB-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
You could pull the drive from this busted screen machine and then use this gadget to plug into another computer and then use tools to triple-wipe the drive.
Popular drive wiping tools: https://www.techrepublic.com/blog/five-apps/five-hard-disk-cleaning-and-erasing-tools/
Yep, agree with the other guy. You’ll need an adapter so your computer can read the drive.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=sata+to+usb&amp;qid=1563420014&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;psc=1
Plug the weird looking end into the drive carefully, ensure it’s straight on there and not at an angle. Plug the rectangular end into the computer and open windows explorer. The files should be there on the left side navigation pane. Windows will give it a drive letter like D: or E:
The PCIe SSD is faster than the SATA, but you probably know that already.
You can get an adapter and use it as an external hard-drive: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=TW0SHGRAR2PYQ4HQ5CBW
This thread might also be helpful: https://www.reddit.com/r/Dell/comments/3rr5y1/xps_15_9550_internal_25_hd_slot/
Would maybe a SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable compared to a hard drive docking station is any difference in performance or the same?
Adapter Cable: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_11?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465846087&amp;sr=1-11&amp;keywords=hard+drive+docking+station
Yes, the Samsung SSD drives come with a very effective cloning software.
You just need to buy a cable to connect the new drive to USB to clone your old drive onto it.
I did that Exact upgrade a couple months ago.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Integral-SATA-Solid-State-Drive/dp/B0771YJNSX/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=integral+ssd&qid=1566480695&s=computers&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExMU9DNEk5RlE3Q0xKJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTMyMDk1MkUwSEIxQVQ1NDdBVSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjEzODgwMUxDVlZaVkhZS1Q3TCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
thats what ive got
&#x200B;
you need this as well
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B00HJZJI84&pd_rd_w=3rG4k&pf_rd_p=42743099-3c6a-4370-bd5b-c49af87959ea&pd_rd_wg=4MrhL&pf_rd_r=TTJYWW3BD3HS368XZ7SK&pd_rd_r=baf441c3-aa68-41a0-bb48-8ef2801d26ca&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExVUxETE9JS1JUU04mZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAzNTAxMDgzOFhZQzZINVRJR0VTJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyNzcxNTUyUlNUWlpVQURQOEk0JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
moving forward the new COD will run better with the same setup as well so its future proofing....
Try making a windows install usb to install windows since windows dvds are extremely outdated and usb are just faster. If that doesn't work what you could do is buy this adapter: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-USB-Cable-USB3S2SAT3CB/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=usb+to+sata&qid=1566769151&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFSRzNGMUs3NkRJUEMmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA1MzEwMDkxRFcxNFE4TFVWNDhXJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTEwNDA1NTAyVENFU0QyTVBJWFpWJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
This adapter allows you to take out the hard drives and connect them via usb to another windows computer. You could use a partition manager(if windows built in one doesn;t work, I reccomend minitool partition wizard) to format it to ntfs, and put it back in your system and install windows
Why not simply use a slightly more expensive USB-SSD? $30 should get you one or an SSD+USB_housing_for_SSD.
example: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-USB-Cable-USB3S2SAT3CB/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1GCSHUJCUSGKX&keywords=usb3+ssd+adapter&qid=1566565441&s=gateway&sprefix=usb3+ssd%2Caps%2C545&sr=8-3#customerReviews
+
https://www.amazon.com/TC-SUNBOW-60GB-Internal-Notebook/dp/B073TTR8JY/ref=sr_1_5?crid=250FLJTDZJE1U&keywords=ssd%2B128gb&qid=1566565547&s=gateway&sprefix=ssd%2B128%2Caps%2C218&sr=8-5&th=1
Depending on how much stuff is on your HDD, this would probably be just fine:
https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/cklfuk/ssd_wd_blue_3d_nand_500gb_internal_ssd_5499_w/
Here's a guide to cloning your drive:
https://www.easeus.com/backup-utility/how-to-migrate-to-a-solid-state-disk-without-reinstalling-windows.html
If you don't have a spare sata cable to connect both drives to your computer at the same time, get one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-USB-Cable-USB3S2SAT3CB/dp/B00HJZJI84
How about something like this instead? No need for an enclosure perhaps:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-10Gbps-Adapter-Cable-Drives/dp/B00XLAZODE/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=SATA+to+USB+Cable&qid=1565235845&s=gateway&sr=8-10
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-USB-Cable-USB3S2SAT3CB/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=SATA+to+USB+Cable&qid=1565218171&s=gateway&sr=8-3
But I guess if you think an enclosure is better, I'll probably grab this one:https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Enclosure-External-Adapter-Housing/dp/B07D2BHVBD/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=SSD+external+enclosure&qid=1565214839&s=gateway&sr=8-4And just tape over the LED or somethin'
I think enclosures support TRIM while SATA to USB adapters don't but it sounds like no one uses/gives a fuck about TRIM anymore. I imagine both of those solutions should work.
Yea it would probably work, but you could also just buy a sata+power to USB adapter and plug it into your computer if you know where the notes are in your file system.
I use one of these all the time:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
You cannot just put the 2tb into the Pro and have all the stuff you had.
You can do a full backup of your current ps4 2tb, but you will need an external drive to do it.
You should at minimum, backup your saved games/screenshots to a USB drive.
You could remove the PS4 Pro's 1TB drive, format it and use it as the external drive if you have or get an external enclosure or an adapter like https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511971126&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=hdd+to+usb+3.0
When I purchased my Pro I also purchased a 2TB SSHD to go with it. I never even turned on the Pro with it's original HDD. You will have to download the latest firmware, the full version onto a USB. You will need that when changing hard drives.http://dus01.ps4.update.playstation.net/update/ps4/image/2017_1018/rec_8d6b9274217351daf0b3811622ed68e4/PS4UPDATE.PUP
Hi,
Depending on the severity of the drive failure, there might be a great chance of recovery using simple forensic tools, or no chance based solely on the fact that the drive doesn't spin anymore.
I recovered about 100gb of data from my wife's dying Mac drive, but it wasn't completely done for by the time I got to it.
I am not sure how to help you, especially considering the physical nature of the problem.
I guess I can run you through some questions and maybe gain a little more knowledge before trying things out.
Basically, you will probably want to remove the drive from your Macbook, which isn't really tough to do, but you do need some fairly specific screwdrivers and a guide (video or text/pictures)
To get you going on that front, I will need the make and model of the laptop (e.g. Macbook Pro Early 2014)
On the recovery front, you need software. If this were a PC/Windows machine with a simple partition, you could use recuvah or other tools. When I had to do it on a Mac, I couldn't afford the software and instead opted for a pirated copy. I can't condone this, but send me a PM and we can try and find you a good deal.
Basically, what you want to do is leave your laptop turned off. You want to remove the battery, then find all the small screws on the backside of the laptop. You will remove the bottom which will then give you access to things like changing/upgrading your memory and/or hard drive.
The hard drives on a Mac typically have these little metal nubs in the thread holes that almost require a specialized tool kit (like I mentioned before, I will link after my wall of text)
Once you remove the drive, you plug in the USB2SATA connector to the drive, and then plug it into the other Macbook using the USB adapter.
If and when you can get to this point, the entire process afterward is trying to figure out if the drive is completely dead or just starting to die.
I completely understand your frustrations; we lost a LOT of videos and pictures, but we learned from our mistakes and have taken appropriate measures to back up our important stuff using services like flickr.com, google drive and Microsoft OneDrive. Apple also offers a reasonably priced cloud service on iCloud.
You can PM me or we can communicate on this thread, but if we can at least get you to the point of discovering whether or not you are going to recover things, it will help ease out the next steps.
Once you have the drive removed, do yourself a favor and place it in a static bag if you can, or a simple static free sandwich bag (sealed) with a small silica gel bag in it (to remove any and all moisture on the internal components).
Let me know!
https://www.amazon.ca/Silverhill-Tools-ATKPRO-Toolkit-computers/dp/B00GS7OXCK
I think the mid-2010 was one of the last models that it was possible to replace the insides. Price is currently about $182
SSD- http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-256GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7KE256BW/dp/B00LMXBOP4
RAM- http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-PC3-8500-204-Pin-CT2K4G3S1067M-CT2C4G3S1067M/dp/B008LTBJFM
SATA cable- http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_3?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0R44VTK7S236H4M8A2MC
Crucial has a good compatibility page that shows what works in that year computer but only for their products. Its nice to compare what you will be getting and what definitely works just to make sure. But, I've had no problems with any of the things above
http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/compatible-upgrade-for//macbook-pro-%2813-inch%2C-mid-2010%29
The way to reinstall Windows is to download the image, then use something like Rufus to create a USB drive. Use this drive to install Windows on the SSD.
Then you update and install whatever programs you want.
Then you install your old HDD inside the PC, I assume this is a desktop - if it's a laptop you'll need special hardware, then you boot to the new Windows and your old HDD should be visible. Then you pick over it like a corpse and extract all the juicy documents you want to keep. Once you have everything you want removed, you format the old HDD. It can now be used as a storage drive.
EDIT: and by 'Documents' I mean "Not Programs"
It looks like a standard 2.5" hard drive. You would buy a cable like this, plug it into the new computer, and cross your fingers.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-USB-Cable-USB3S2SAT3CB/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sata+usb&qid=1566309539&s=gateway&sr=8-3
By default, your iTunes Media folder is in your iTunes folder:
.
.
Yeah I download a lot of movies/shows so I definitely wouldn't want to go all the way down to a 128/256 GB SSD, since that's about the most I could afford with a SSD. Rather save up to replace this laptop.
Are 5400 RPM drives preferred over 7200? I was always under the impression 7200 was better with its faster speeds (at least before SSDs came out)
As for the Seagate Hybrid. Am I understanding the tech correctly? Its basically an 8 GB SSD with a 1 TB traditional HD. And the OS would go on the SSD part while everything else goes on the traditional side?
Do you have any resources on replacing the HD? I was planning on buying this cable:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=pd_sim_147_2?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41RlR-Q1siL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=CMVE184DYW1R1YM8P7EG
and then cloning my current drive and then its just swapping the two? but how exactly does it know to put the OS on the SSD portion?
Thanks again for all your help, I really appreciate it.
I mean there are so many choices.
You can just get a cable. https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
You can get external HDD enclosures that you just plug into a USB port.
You can get NAS docks (Network Attached Storage) that let you just attach hard drives to your network so you can access them from multiple computers.
You can just build a machine to do it as well with hot swappable drives.
There are SO many choices. What's your end goal?
You can either get yourself a bootable windows on a USB flash drive which you can choose as boot device in your bios to install windows on your new SSD (there are several tutorials online on how to do this for example here) or you can do what I did and get a USB-adapter like that one and use it to clone an exact image of your existing drive onto your SSD (I used dd in linux but there is software like acronis that should enable you to do the same in windows) given of course that your SSD is not smaller than the content of your HDD.
First off, ignore any included software that comes with a drive. Always always always. Invariably this is written for PC, is even then highly proprietary (read duff), and the tools that come with a Mac are more than good enough.
Maybe I missed it, but have you not tried installing the SSD directly in A? This would get past the problem of the enclosure not working. You should then be able to boot off the USB, and use Disk Utility to format the SSD for OS X. If Disk Utility doesn't see it (which I now see your third bullet covers) then it looks very much like a duff SSD.
Rather than banging your head off a wall, you first of all need to verify the SSD is good. Maybe get one of those SATA to USB interfaces that are a few bucks that let you run a notebook sized drive externally, yet naked, so no enclosure. They're pretty cheap and a spare one is always handy to have, and with SSDs there isn't really even any point in an enclosure as they're normally in one. But from what you've said, you've tried the enclosure and directly inside A, so I'd reckon it's just dead.
Something like this will be what you need.
Assuming you bought something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
the hard drive is powered through the USB port on your computer.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=sata+to+usb&amp;qid=1562440532&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=sara+to+usb&amp;sr=8-3
https://lifehacker.com/how-to-migrate-to-a-solid-state-drive-without-reinstall-5837543
This should work. Use an adapter/enclosure to connect the SSD to PC, clone HDD to SSD (follow the article), disconnect HDD, connect SSD.
If you don't plan to use most of the files of the old laptop, then you would indeed need to get a USB SATA adapter. You can buy them on Amazon for $9.99.
The only thing that I am not entirely aware of is that this HD is in its own cage, which is the black plastic around the hard drive. It then uses the SATA data cable to connect to the motherboard on your old laptop.
I am not entirely sure, but based on the picture I believe it is a proprietary cable that is used to provide both power & data to the HDD.
So, you should hopefully be able to get the HDD out of that cage, which will then show you something like this.
Which is the connection you need to have available to use said USB adaptor.
Edit: had the wrong picture, kind of a facepalm moment.
Never buy cables from BestBuy!
StarTech.com SATA to USB Cable - USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA III Hard Drive Adapter - External Converter for SSD/HDD Data Transfer (USB3S2SAT3CB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZKLoDbZP6KE8T
Agreed! At recoding.LA, we use several “internal” SSD with an SATA to USB cables for mobile data, and it works great
Links below
Samsung SSD 860 EVO 500GB 2.5 inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E500B/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XXCmDbSNSTHY4
StarTech.com SATA to USB Cable - USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA III Hard Drive Adapter - External Converter for SSD/HDD Data Transfer (USB3S2SAT3CB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7YCmDbZ1EV31R
Also, remember to backup your data! Any hard drive can die at any moment for no reason at all
Cloning a HDD to SSD
or SSD to SSD is pretty straightforward and easy.
If for whatever reason you can't have both drives connected to the computer at the same time grab one of these.
https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2/139-1786808-6635302?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00HJZJI84&amp;pd_rd_r=d1cb0f0f-a443-4c36-994b-48db1c86ee2b&amp;pd_rd_w=PF1nJ&amp;pd_rd_wg=tmG2H&amp;pf_rd_p=a62e2918-d998-4bbb-8337-35aac776e851&amp;pf_rd_r=T0C6HVTDEV8B96D3GTEE&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=T0C6HVTDEV8B96D3GTEE
You dont need an enclosure. Just SATA to USB 3.x adapter. I picked mine up for $4 off Ebay.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB3S2SAT3CB-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
Don't you just need something like this?
Edit: Never mind, looks like the full enclosure you posted is actually cheaper.
I'd recommend backing up everything to an external HDD.
You can also plug the old HDD into one of these SATA to USB cables and be able to get your files that way.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB3S2SAT3CB-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
For the installed programs, you'd probably want to re-install them after you install the OS on the SSD.
You could more than likely put it in another laptop, but not at the same time as the existing hard drive. One of these would serve you well.
Maybe not Windows XP, but Windows 10 definetly worked on an SSD and connecting via this SATA to USB3 adapter. I would bring the drive with me to play Windows game in various places. No issues at all; Although all locations were using Nvidia cards. Bonus: I was also able to get VirtualBox to boot from the drive as well from a Linux host.
I'm sure you have a good reason for actually wanting to do this (either that or sleep deprivation has finally overcome my better judgement) but you could use the following two items (or functional equivalents available in your region) in combination:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Akasa-AK-CBUB09-15BK-Internal-Adapter-Cable/dp/B005LDY0SO
https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-comUSB-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable-Black/dp/B00HJZJI84
Just take it and don't say another word, hopefully I'll forget I gave you the advice you actually asked for when I do finally fall asleep rather than trying to fathom out the why and work out how to get you the desired configuration you wanted without resorting to jank.
You could remove the hard drive from the laptop and plug it into a desktop pc in a spare drive bay.
Or alternatively, get a USB to SATA adapter and use it as an external drive so you can grab the files off the drive.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-comUSB-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable-Black/dp/B00HJZJI84
You could try booting a windows 10 instillation media and formatting your drive that way. https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10ISO
Or
Plug the harddrive into a different computer using a usb dongle https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-USB-Cable-USB3S2SAT3CB/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?keywords=internal+hard+drive+usb&amp;qid=1567380255&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-14
Then open disk management in windows 10 and if your drive appears in this tool you should be able to reformat it. If not it may be a lost cause.
First find out how much power your psu provides. There should be a sticker somewhere on the PSU that tells you how many watts it can provide. Post that information here, if you post the model number of your HP it could probably be looked up if you can't find it. If it does provide enough power, and if you have 2 molex connectors that are not hooked up to anything you can buy an adapter which will provide power to the card. I assume that your card only has one 6pin connection, mine does and it is a 660 also.
https://www.amazon.com/Molex-15-Power-Serial-Adapter/dp/B003M75D7I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466438759&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=molex+to+2+sata
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-6-Inch-Express-Adapter-LP4PCIEXADAP/dp/B0007RXDDM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466438799&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=molex+to++6+pin
According to corsair the PSU comes with 2 PCI-E connectors. Where are you getting the info from that it only has 1? Even if it did have just 1, one of these bad boys would remedy this problem
If that's the case you may need an adapter of some sort. You'll need one more 6-pin connector in order to safely provide power to the GPU. If you have two extra four-pin molex connectors, you can get a 2xmolex to 6-pin PCIe adapter like this to do it. I would check to make sure the power supply is capable of at least 450w output.
I would definitely recommend you at least use two molex to six pin adapters like these.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-Express-Video-Power-Adapter/dp/B0007RXDDM/
For anyone who has bought the 006c risers with SATA connector and wanted to convert to molex instead for 1080 Ti cards, would it be possible to use 6 pin to molex cables like these? It looks like that 6 pin connector is the same type that the sata cable plugs into on the riser board.
Molex to PCIe would work just fine and only costs a few dollars.
So I'm kinda new to all this but is this it?
https://www.amazon.ca/Startech-Com-6-Inch-Express-Adapter-LP4PCIEXADAP/dp/B0007RXDDM/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1543185067&amp;sr=8-6&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=6+pin+connector&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31PJkQyyQPL&amp;ref=plSrch
Awesome! Just to be sure is this one good to order? (sorry for the noobness)
Yes, the core2duo is perfectly capable of Skyrimming at nice detail and frame rate with a proper GPU. You can buy 6 pin molex converters for cheap on amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-6-Inch-Express-Adapter-LP4PCIEXADAP/dp/B0007RXDDM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419592691&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=6+pin+pci+e+converter
or this is on sale for $26 on Newegg which is your best option. It would carry over well to a stronger build in the future, like an FX and an R9 or an i5 and a GTX.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139026&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10446076&amp;PID=3938566&amp;SID=
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812706033&amp;cm_re=8pin_to_6pin-_-12-706-033-_-Product
Would it work if I got two of these?
edit: or perhaps: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-6-Inch-Express-Adapter-LP4PCIEXADAP/dp/B0007RXDDM/ref=pd_bxgy_e_img_y
Would this do me good?
If you have spare molex connectors you could try using a molex to six pin like this?
Amazon link - yeah they exist. You may be able to pick one up locally if you have a Fry's electronics around you (or another big computer store - I don't know if Best Buy carries them or not).
Whenever you wonder whether a graphics card is capable of running the game you want to play, and this goes for everyone, give a search on Youtube for tests: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fDeIviKV-Hg
As for the laptop or upgraded desktop, the laptop is indeed very nice however with a 5400 rpm Harddrive in comparison to the standard 7200 rpm you have on the desktop or possibly the SSD you can upgrade the desktop system with, I think it'd be best to upgrade the desktop with the 950.
Edit: So there are a few considerations you need to make with the addition of another hardware component, in this case the video card. Three are: Power consumption, air flow, and compatibility.
The power supply your computer has is a 460W. With the addition of the graphics card, because the graphics card is a sub-100W component and the minimum recommended power supply is a 400W, you should be fine with your current PSU(Power Supply Unit).
The addition of another hardware component also translates to more heat dissipation and hence a need for more air to flow through the system. Depending on whether the case has enough fan ports to handle good air flow or not, you may need to purchase another mid-ATX case, which are affordable. (You can always take off the side panel?)
The GTX 950 has an interface specification of: PCI Express 3.0 x16. Your motherboard has one PCI Express X16 expansion slot. As for whether it supports 3.0 I am not sure. In either case, the 3.0 component is backward compatible with 2.0 and 1.0 PCIe expansion slots and hence will work although you won't be taking advantage of the throughput you'd get from the graphics card running on the PCIe 3.0 interface. This is known as a "bottleneck" in computer system performance.
Another thing on compatibility is the requirement of a 6-pin power connector from your PSU. Check to see if you have an unused 6 pin power connector on your PSU. If you don't have a 6 pin connector then you can purchase an LP4 4-pin molex to 6 pin PCI express power connector. Just be sure your PSU has two unused 4-pin molex connectors.
Apologies for the lengthy post but there were many factors to consider and I'd rather be thorough about everything. Happy shopping!
According to Nvidia's website that card requires 2x 6pin connectors for power and a minimum of a 500w power supply to ensure your system runs smoothly.
You can buy either two of these, two of these or one of each depending on your Power supply config and these should power your card, provided you have sufficient wattage on your power supply.
Another option is to purchase a new power supply, this one would do the job, and as an added bonus Corsair's customer service is one of the best around in my experience.
Not sure if you are in US, UK or elsewhere but these parts should be easy enough to source no matter where you are.
Hope i could help.
You need 2x 6-Pin PCI-E Power plugged in to the graphics card in order for it to boot properly.
If there's only one coming from your power supply then you need to get a molex to PCI-E power connector.
This is my PSU. All 8-pin and 6-pin, no molex. Would this be the converter I need?
So should I buy one of these?
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0007RXDDM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&amp;psc=1
And hook up a molex cable to my psu and then plug the molex ends in to my psu and then the 6pin in to the riser?
get something like this, and a usb-usbc adapter.
You could also buy something like this and still have it as an external drive. I also use this to easily hook up HDDs and grab data off of them instead of having to put them in the computer. You could even just buy a regular drive and this and probably save money, just like OP is saying. Obviously you don't get the added protection of the enclosure, but when not in use you could always store the drive in it's original protective packaging from shipping.
If the PC boots and turns on you can use Hiren's Boot CD by sticking it on a flashdrive with Yumi and boot to the USB. Then use Parted Magic or Mini Windows XP off Hiren's and copy your files to another flashdrive or external hard drive.
The alternative is to buy something like THIS and remove your HDD and attach it directly to another computer.
I use this
https://www.amazon.com/Vantec-CB-ISATAU2-Supports-2-5-Inch-5-25-Inch/dp/B000J01I1G
It lets you plug in SATA and IDE drives, and it comes with a molex power supply to power them
You won't be able to clone a failing drive. If you have important files that are not backed up that you do not wish you lose, you need to completely disconnect that hard drive right now. The more you use it, the higher the chance will be that it will completely fail.
My advice is either running the computer on a Linux Live distro using a thumb/usb drive or installing an OS (Win10) to the new hard drive and then using something like this to copy the files off of your old HDD: https://www.amazon.com/Vantec-CB-ISATAU2-Supports-2-5-Inch-5-25-Inch/dp/B000J01I1G/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487810287&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=sata+to+usb+adapter+hard+drive
That will let you use your internal hard drive as kind of an external, through USB, so you can copy files off. Only have it hooked up when you are ready to copy files.
Otherwise, if you aren't worried about losing files, you can try using any of the cloning software out there to try and do a direct disk to disk copy but if the drive is failing, this probably won't work.
Yeah, you can take the the drive out and get a caddy for it to connect to another computer via USB and it will just show up as an external HDD (provided it isn't encrypted).
https://www.amazon.com/Vantec-CB-ISATAU2-Supports-2-5-Inch-5-25-Inch/dp/B000J01I1G/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539829156&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=2.5+to+usb
I have a crash cart bag handy for random issues
Adapters:
And don't forget at least 1 tiny led flashlight :)
https://www.amazon.com/Vantec-CB-ISATAU2-Supports-2-5-Inch-5-25-Inch/dp/B000J01I1G
they also make a SCSI version but I couldnt find it in my quick search.
Connect the drive to your USB with this.
Run dban to erase the drive.
If he claims you erased the drive counter that he is an idiot and did it himself.
I might try this little jewel.
http://www.amazon.com/Vantec-CB-ISATAU2-Supports-2-5-Inch-5-25-Inch/dp/B000J01I1G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1376335280&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+hard+drive+adapter
Hook it up to another computer and see if windows recognizes the drive. Then you can at least pull data off of it.
Other than that there is a program called spin rite that works (sometimes) to clear up drive read trouble. You'll have to download it and burn it to a bootable cd. boot to the CD and point it to your hard drive. It will take overnight to run a whole spin rite repair function.
https://www.grc.com/spinrite.htm
thank you. would this work?
Something like this can help you transfer data off an old hard drive to a new pc.
This should work: http://www.amazon.com/Vantec-CB-ISATAU2-Supports-2-5-Inch-5-25-Inch/dp/B000J01I1G/
Well, does that 'external enclosure' has a power input, an adapter plug DC5V? This is what I spoke about, compared to this it works better. Problem I encountered, same symptoms as yours, was that the PC USB port was not delivering enough power.
Not a clue.
Amazon is also an option if they don't.
http://www.amazon.com/Vantec-CB-ISATAU2-Supports-2-5-Inch-5-25-Inch/dp/B000J01I1G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1347740503&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sata+to+usb
Fairly cheap, depending on the drive you have they should have a USB conversion for it - http://www.amazon.com/Vantec-CB-ISATAU2-Supports-2-5-Inch-5-25-Inch/dp/B000J01I1G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1348530263&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=harddrive+to+usb
Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:
Amazon Smile Link: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000J01I1G/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1
|Country|Link|
|:-----------|:------------|
|Spain|amazon.es|
|France|amazon.fr|
|Germany|amazon.de|
|Canada|amazon.ca|
|Italy|amazon.it|
This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.
Something like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000J01I1G/ref=pd_aw_sim_147_of_6?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41mJqEr4cwL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_SL500_SR100%2C100_&amp;refRID=1SXCC5CFDNMP4W2JXVN7) should work.
As for a gift, I'd rather you make a donation to a worthwhile charity such as a local food bank, animal shelter, or tech education program.
Yes and since it's a 3.5" drive the OP will probably need a power adapter as well. These are usually included. I have something like this that works well http://amzn.to/2ljFl9i for temporary use.
I'd recommend you take it somewhere than can take the drive out and back it up, so you can access the files. Or you could pick up a sata to usb adapter and do it yourself, but you'd likely have to order one from Amazon, or MAYBE pick one up at Best Buy. Amazon
You could also create a bootable Linux flash drive, and back the files up through Linux. Here's a guide to that.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000J01I1G/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?qid=1452327363&amp;sr=8-9&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&amp;keywords=hard+drive+transfer+cable 50/50 chance the drive is okay enough to backup. Even if the PC won't boot.
As u/amirzaim said, if you have a fat PS2, you can get a network adapter from Amazon or sometimes local used/retro gaming stores. You need an IDE HDD too (or you have to use adapters) I got mine here. Lastly, you need a cable to connect it to your PC and transfer game images IDE drive docks work but you can also use a cable like this one. Format with Winhiip and then install the ISOs. You can RIP ISOs off of your retail discs legally by using Imgburn on your PC. For all of this to work you need a freemcboot card, which a nice person in the sidebar sells.
clumsy but couldn't an external drive be powered externally but have a Serial ATA to USB conversion cable of some kind?
http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-30504-Serial-Adapter/dp/B000UO6C5S
Looks like you will need an IDE to usb adapter.
I actually need this external adapter to finish a project ive been working on, since my external took a poop and died on me....
thanks for the chance at this contest!
Goodbye Eleven
Yep! This one can connect IDE and SATA drives to USB: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UO6C5S
Sure there are plenty. This one works also offers USB it seems so you wouldn't even need to open up your case.
https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-30504-Serial-Adapter/dp/B000UO6C5S
Which Mac? If you can get the hard drive out you can do it yourself on a friend's computer with something like this.
Something like this might work, but make sure it has the right number of pins for IDE, because floppy drives use different cables from hard disks:
http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-30504-Serial-Adapter/dp/B000UO6C5S/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1377223337&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=usb+ide+cable+adapter
I can vouch for these cables:
http://www.amazon.com/Cables-To-Go-30504-Adapter/dp/B000UO6C5S/
I've also used the toaster, both are great.
Live CDs
Other Utilities
Hardware
do you mean like one of these? http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-30504-Serial-Adapter/dp/B000UO6C5S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1375568887&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=sata+usb
I have an old laptop hard drive i'd love to recover the data from.
Sorry, you'll have to buy another adapter like this.
This one works, I use it with my Plextor external IDE:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UO6C5S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have an old hard drive with hundreds of old pictures and movies on it from my childhood, but when I try to plug it in with an adapter, the hard drive doesn't boot. No sound, no clicking, no lights. Nothing. This worked perfectly fine for an identical hard drive, but this one had no luck. What can I do in this situation?
You can plug the drive into another pc, but you need a special cable to connect it. This won't do you any good, because you still need to boot from the usb drive to install an os.
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Sometimes you need to keep mashing it quickly as the pc boots. From what I read on your computer, it is either F1 or F10, and just keep mashing it quickly when it is at the Compaq logo.
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I'm not a computer expert, but it should boot from a usb by order of operations if you remove the hard drive.
This is not unusual. The reality is your boot hard drive is damaged. This does not mean your data is lost. If a client came to me I would remove the hard drive and attach it as a second drive and pull off the data. Booting to your OS (operating system) requires all the OS files to be in working order. If I were you I would just be ok with getting a better hard drive (solid state) and after you installed it and used the restore disks (assuming they came with your system) to restore your system, and then pull your old data off the broken drive.
At $9 the device to attach a regular hard drive as a usb device is cheap.
http://www.amazon.com/USB-SATA-5-25-Cable-Adapter/dp/B000YJBL78
Get one of these and see if you can recover the files (http://www.amazon.com/USB-SATA-5-25-Cable-Adapter/dp/B000YJBL78). Buy a new hard drive and charge her for parts. Move the stuff over to the new harddrive. Install windows (Might have to buy that also). Your company might have a volume license or something.
If you only have the laptop to work with, buy one of these Generic USB 2.0 to SATA and plug in your new drive to the adapter. Plug the adapter into a free USB port.
Image the drive in the laptop to the drive on the adapter with Macrium Reflect Free
After you install the program, select the donor disk and hit the clone disk button.
There are a number of USB devices that can do this, it depends on the type of drive. Just search amazon for '(Hard drive type) USB adapter', or something like that. It'll basically turn it into an external drive and you can access it as normal from there. EDIT: as an example; http://www.amazon.com/USB-SATA-5-25-Cable-Adapter/dp/B000YJBL78
By what you are describing, I also suspect your enclosure vs the actual drive. I have had multiple external HDDs die because if the power supply within the enclosure.
Buy one of these pull the drive out of the enclosure and plug it in.
This is the cheapest option for that.
For physically connecting the drives, they make sata/ide to USB adapters.
You can browse the videos by XBMC's file manager or as /u/InsideOutsider says, add them to the library.
_____
Any more questions just let me know :)
First try another sata port with a different cable. If it doesn't show up in BIOS setup then the drive is dead. I'd start with that.
The sata usb adapter (like this one at amazon https://www.amazon.com/USB-SATA-5-25-Cable-Adapter/dp/B000YJBL78) lets you plug any sata device in as a usb storage device. I use mine to test devices or recover files.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/USB-SATA-5-25-Cable-Adapter/dp/B000YJBL78 will allow you to attach the laptop drive to your new PC and copy the files from it.