Buy this along with your new tv, OK?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HTFHOEI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HtUxzb4937R5H

I even got sick of my Zircon studfinder's flakiness so I sprung for a $8 magnetic one and I dig it. It does take a lil longer because you need to hit on a screw/metal, but I still grab it before my electric one.

EDIT: This is the one on Amazon, which is not where I purchased it (local HD for me), but same product and price.

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VYySCbNCT7D0D

This is a tool you need! I switched from a traditional wall-irregularity finder to one of these and it leveled up my handyman skill.

I've gone through a few stud finders and settled on the fact that stud finders just don't work very well.

Then I bought this and the same magnetic stud finder as backup. It changed my mind, it's damn near 100% consistent.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0064EICKG/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Franklin prosensor 710. Life-changing. My life was mundane, but after the Franklin prosensor, it is still mundane put I can locate the studs in my wall.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0064EICKG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524441733&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=prosensor+710+franklin+precision+stud+finder&dpPl=1&dpID=41%2BBhPTU1SL&ref=plSrch

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aMyRAbZN3XD11

It's a magnet. Foolproof. Which I need because I've never had much luck with the electronic ones.

That isn't true at all. I can get away with a simple magnet and just use it to find a sheetrock screw.

Look at this stud finder on amazon -
CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_mPogzb17D3WA9

4.5 out of 5 stars with over 7,000 reviews and only costs $9.99. Thing doesn't even require batteries.

I would tell people the exact opposite of what you said. Don't waste $30-40 on a stud finder when a $9 one will work just as well.

Got this one, been extremely happy with it: https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=sr_1_3

Most of the time I use the CH Hanson mentioned by u/mikeperr or a rare earth magnet on a string and swing it like a pendulum.
If you are really into it and insist on determining the precise edge of every piece of framing (and fire blocking) the one gizmo I know works most of the time is the Franklin 710. I just never had any consistent luck with those zircon things.

Get a new stud detector. Even if you spend $50, I guarantee you it will pay off in saving your sanity by getting one like this or even better that senses any electrical or plumbing behind the wall: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8XSYBbQTVG65E

I prefer this

I've had 100 dollar stud finders that couldn't do what this magnet does. They aren't terribly accurate and require batteries.

I have this one and it works pretty well.

Stud finder, $10: https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1520539096&sr=1-4&keywords=stud+finder

A wood stove is my only source of heat so I have quite a bit of experience in this area. Here's some pointers.

Wear all the safety gear. Chaps, glasses, gloves, hearing protection. I cant stress this enough. I have seen the damage a saw can do to a shin. Not pretty.

Use a grease pencil and a stick cut to length to mark your logs before cutting. If all the pieces are the same size they stack MUCH nicer than if they are random lengths.

Sharpen your chainsaw before you use it. This is the best sharpener I have ever used Every time. Also sharpen it if the tip hits the dirt (keep the tip out of the dirt). A log jack will do wonders for your chain. The chain will stay sharper (again keeping it out of the dirt) and it keeps the end of the log up in the air and will prevent the chain/bar from binding.

Get a moisture meter like [THIS]
(https://smile.amazon.com/General-Tools-MMD4E-Moisture-Digital/dp/B00275F5O2/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1518026049&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=moisture+meter&psc=1) one and make sure you are only burning wood less than 20% moisture content. The meter is especially important if you run short and end up purchasing wood. Wet wood suuuuuucks. Lots of smoke/creosote and not much heat.

Seasoning really begins when the logs are cut and split. Whole logs laying on the ground dont season well.

Last, if you've never dropped a tree on your own, get help. It's more complicated than it looks and you can get hurt badly especially when cutting down trees that are dead or have rotten spots in them.

Get a moisture meter and check for moisture. It doesn’t look like recent water damage. Tough to tell without a moisture reading.

something like this

Best one that I know of... I use it all the time, very accurate!

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GR7aAbYG0R3YB

Use a powerful magnet to locate the nails in the wall. When you find a vertical row of nails that is where the stud is.

This one is awesome:

https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=magnet+stud+finder&qid=1554615529&s=gateway&sr=8-3

ProSensor 710 Franklin Sensors ProSensor 710 Precision Stud Finder Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-pN5AbZCA8K2Q

I have this, it’s awesome.

Love my Franklin.

https://www.amazon.ca/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=stud+finder&qid=1558914670&s=gateway&sr=8-7

Two downsides: battery cover could be redesigned as it can come loos pretty easily, does not indicate live power.

I've got one of these, it would work great for this.

Yeah, mostly likely just inaccurate readings.

I'm guessing you're using a standard stick-style stud finder.

Ditch it and get a Franklin. They're far more accurate (especially in older homes with thick plaster/gypsum) and intuitive to use.

Cheers.

I bought this moisuter meter for $22 on Amazon.

I tried to buy firewood last week and told the guy, "We're just about out of wood for this season. We've got some more wood, but it's too wet to burn now. Do you have anything we can burn next week?" Guy says "Oh yeah, you can burn this stuff today if you want."

He showed up with the first truckload of a cord of wood. I said, "Excuse me for testing, but..." and I stuck the meter into one of the pieces of wood. 37%! That's wetter than what I cut last month! He seemed surprised and curious about what a moisture meter was. I think he had felled it last year and just assumed it was dry, but I don't think he had bucked it until quite recently. I don't need to sort out his intentions, I just brought him to my pile and showed him what seasoned firewood measures at.

If you're burning firewood, a $20 moisture meter is a lot cheaper than dealing with an unexpectedly wet load of wood.

I have this and it works great to more visibly see the stud

https://www.amazon.com/Franklin-Sensors-FS710PROProSensor-Professional-Finder/dp/B0195K8OT4/

The top selling stud finder on Amazon is just a magnet in a plastic holder.

http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=zg_bs_553280_1

https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI

the best stud finder ever

• this is NOT a risky click 😉

1. Buy a good stud finder, it can detect other stuff as well, and check for clearance. This is the best and easiest to use stud finder I have ever used. Here
   
   
2. If you have the proper clearance, then cut the wall with a drywall hand saw.
   
   
3. Use some 2x4 or whatever cheap wood you have available to nail the support beam. You can easily shoot a nail at an angle to connect it between 2 studs. Do the bottom support and top as well.
   
   
4. Install the cabinet and secure it with screws. You really only need 4 screws. 2 on top and 2 on the bottom. Or if you're flush the the studs on the side, you can screw it to the side. That's the easiest route.
   
   
5. Now finish it with drywall joint compound to fill the gaps. Then caulk the gaps. Paint.
   
   Now if you don't have the clearance. Your only way to do it is is to build a frame around it so you hide the unfinished part. But personally, I'd just get another one that's in in-wall.

Ya I love this guy and this stud finder. Made an amazing doggy door through my wall to the side of the house for a dog potty area, only took a couple days with the right tools.

Get a better stud finder.

I use this magnetic stud finder: Totally Non-Risky Click I Swear

I second.

I have Franklin, but a magnet is still my preferred method. This guy is well worth the $10 if you don't just have rare earth magnets lying around. Cheap $10 electronic stud finders, however, are not worth anything.

Electric stud finders are shit. Buy this wonderful little magnet and wave it over a wall until it sticks. This will effectively just find the studs by finding the nails in the studs and sticking to them, then you know your stud location and you can move up and down on that to find the height you want.

Seriously. It works every single time, I hang mine on a piece of dental floss so I can swing it around on the wall until it sticks on it’s own.

It costs $7 and will prevent your tv from falling off of the wall.

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FJNNDbVDS7NAQ

If you don't have the wood yet you might be in a pinch. I burn wood to heat our house all winter, but definitely not anywhere near -30c. How much wood depends on the type of wood. Each species has a different BTU rating. Some burn hot and fast others are low and slow. I tend to use both. I like Poplar to get the stove warm and Oak to bank it all night.

​

I cut my own wood but if you don't you will need to be careful of sellers saying it is seasoned. A true seasoned piece of wood will be cut and split (generally) for a year. Some sellers will cut and split in the late spring/early summer and try to sell it in the winter. That won't cut it for most guys burning wood. I highly suggest investing into an inexpensive moisture meter. Split a piece of any wood that you are buying and test it. I try to burn at 20% or less.



Also, it might be really helpful for you to get a wall mounted propane heater. They are inexpensive (under $150 at the local big box store or on Amazon). Keep it on a thermostat to kick on if the wood fire goes out. Really helpful on punishing days. If you get the smaller 100 lb tanks you can take them to the filling station and have them filled cheaper than delivery.


Oh and get a carbon monoxide detector. If need to make sure you have enough fresh air in your house to support your wood burning stove and your ability to breathe!


​

Wood Heat Value Comparison Chart

Two options:
A wet wood stain.
http://www.davlaurcoatings.com/Products/
Never used before not sure of it's quality.

Or buy a moisture meter and check the levels before you stain. Follow your stains recommendations.
General Tools MMD4E Moisture Meter, Pin Type, Digital LCD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00275F5O2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WjevzbDDWQ12J

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-MMD4E-Moisture-High-Medium-Low/dp/B00275F5O2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=wood+hygrometer&qid=1574491824&sr=8-3

• Just buy some pre-made patch cables you can get them in all sorts of pretty colors for $12.99 for 150 foot cable on Amazon.
  
  
• Buy one of these: 3-foot long wood auger bit
  http://www.westwayelectricsupply.com/irwin-1890751-flexible-installer-wood-auger-tip-1-2-x-36.html
  
  
• And one of these: push-pull rod kit and a fish-tape:
  http://www.pushpullrods.com/
  http://www.techtoolsupply.com/Wire-Installation-Tools-Push-Pull-Rods-Glow-Rods-s/530.htm
  
  
• and of course with a drywall saw, you can cheat by cutting holes in the drywall then putting some of these in places like inside closet walls...
  http://www.lowvoltagecables.com/blank-wall-plate-white.html?
  
  http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=7013
  
  www.all-wall.com/Categories/USG-Sheetrock-Drywall-Tools/Sheetrock-Tools-Jab-Saw.html?
  
  
• Also some of these tools are handy:
  
  
  Stud finder with AC wire locator
  https://www.amazon.com/Zircon-StudSensor-e50-Electronic-Finder/dp/B002R5AVVY
  
  
• non-contact voltage detector
  http://www.jensentools.com/fluke-1ac-a1-ii-non-contact-voltage-detector/p/433-973
  
  I've installed dozens of cameras, and many ethernet jacks, both for myself and for some friends and even a couple of business installs. Its not difficult, you just need to figure out where to drill.
  
  
  
  
  
  

Electronic stud finders are cheap, and they're not limited to detecting nails/screws. They tell you exactly where the stud begins and where it ends.

This is the exact model I have, and I've had it for almost 20 years. If you're about to move, get one. If you like home improvement projects, get one. If you like blinking toys, get one.

edit: holy shit this one is awesome, if a bit pricey.

Cheap acurite temp/humidity sensors. Use an rtl_sdr to capture the data and use rtl_433 software to decode it.


These

And

This

With this software

Came here to say this, this was my best purchase all summer 👍 CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

the buy it for life crowd will always argue for superior quality and buying a good tool. However another random redditor once summarized a different pragmatic:
"Buy a cheap tool, if it does the job you win. If you use it enough to break it you now are justified on buying the good version that might last you a lifetime."
I love harbor freight for economy cheap hand tools.

My exception is buy a good drill/driver. My current house might be close to 50% held together by work from my Milwaukee at this point.

Other tools no one mentioned that will come in handy: Outlet tester/live circuit detector, A stud finder, a set of allen wrenches.

You can use a (fairly strong neodymium) magnet to find the sheetrock screws they use to, well, hold up the sheetrock. If you find a couple of magnetic spots in a line, odds are a beam is there. They even make magnets encased in plastic for this exact purpose.

Disclaimer: I don't really know anything about the strapping /u/jerkfacebeaversucks was talking about, so the magnet may be fooled by that too.

Looks like surfactant bleed from high humidity following painting. Kilz it and repaint it.

You can get an inexpensive moisture meter to put your mind at ease.

Maybe this? I bet it doesn't detect pvc

The Franklin is supposed to be good. I just use neodymium magnets myself. The last Bosch stud finder I used worked really well at detecting metal in the wall, but not wood.

I have no idea how deep these scan, but have you tried something like the Lumber Wizard (for broad scanning) or the Little Wizard (for more accurate spot scanning)? They may be helpful in locating nails and other metal in the reclaimed wood before your saw or planer falls victim to them. Apart from the damage to the blades, I imagine hitting a nail while cutting/planing must be rather alarming!

I used to rent a 95 year old home with plaster and lath. The studpop was a godsend.

Studpop Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FRI5TMY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FJ3xzbJ5WAY5Q

This one worked for me, it finds the nails in the stud.

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_MRGpDbF3WC35Z

Youtube will have plenty of examples. Make sure you find a stud to secure it to. This is my go to studfinder these days if you don't already have one: http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406045775&sr=8-1&keywords=stud+finder

I just screwed one of these eye hooks to the bottom side of one of the upper shelves, then ran a lag bolt through the eye and into the stud behind the bookshelf. I did this in a couple spots, it will depend on how wide your bookshelf is as to how many you might decide to do. This is a particularly large bookshelf in my case and it goes all the way up to the ceiling. A good long wood screw would likely suffice in most cases. Also my bookshelf has an open back, you may need to do something slightly different if yours has an enclosed back on it, but you get the general gist of it.

OMGOMGOMGOMGOMG. Best $10 I ever spent. I love this thing:

http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI

For the future, grab one of these stud finders. Run it along the wall and it will hang on the screw heads that were used to secure the drywall. Also works great in lathe and plaster houses. It's really just a strong magnet.

Rare earth magnets work great, they latch on to nails/screws. Find one, then slide it up to find another above, and down to find another below, and you can be sure you're on a stud.

I have one of these, and it's never led me astray:

http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1416347164&sr=1-1&keywords=stud+finder

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_atL1BbHQFE6PJ

Best ever. Doesn’t do electrical, or much else, but it works! It’ll just stick to a nail once it finds one.

For just finding studs, I find these to be better than any of the fancy ones: http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI

Here are the links without the referral tags:
Stud-finder and Fish Tape.

Try this type of stud finder.
https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI

i wouldn't worry about drywall coming off the studs.. not even sure how this would happen.

game plan is sound. go for it. the only possible issue (and it's minor) is you could screw into an existing drywall screw, but the odds of this are almost 0. worst case is you screw 1/2" away.

but if you want to be absolutely sure, amazon sells these "stud-finders" that are just rare-earth magnets with a small level bubble. it finds studs by locating the drywall screws... nice little tool.

Search magnetic stud finder. Run it over the wall to find a screw in the drywall where your stud should be.

https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=magnetic+stud+finder&qid=1571351577&sprefix=magnetic+stu&sr=8-3

If you have about $60 you could just buy them and have some tools that will serve you well as a renter and then you could help out your friends (and maybe get free beers or food off them).

I think you mean a stud finder.

https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/

It's less than ten bucks.

An adjustable wrench is about the same price.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-23002-6-Inch-Adjustable-Wrench/dp/B00FFUPS98/

For a cordless rechargeable you're talking about $40 for this one.

https://www.amazon.com/Cordless-Variable-Position-Masterworks-MW316/dp/B07CR1GPBQ/


I know you said borrow, but if you're renting it's good to have some basic tools for stuff like this and it's an investment to be honest. If you honestly can't get anyone to help, I already have the stud finder (metal detector), and wrench. It would be an excuse for me to finally get a drill. Let me know if nothing else works out.

I have only ever used the magnet based ones that are inexpensive. The magnets find the drywall nails which are only in the studs.

https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1504558503&sr=1-4&keywords=stud+finder

I love the CH Hanson stud finder...basically the same concept of the magnets, but incorporates a small level so you can make an accurate mark.
https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI

This works beautifully it has a light coating on the back so you don't leave marks on the walls when you slide it around. Also, sweep diagonally when using it.

Honestly a really good magnet, finds the nails that attach the lathe. I think I have this one

Command strips is definitely the way to go, but I find for some things the piece of it that holds the item is too big and fat for some things.

Nailing is an art. The first thing you would do is get a stud finder to make sure you're nailing something into a board and not just your wall and air. Your wall can hold most light things but if it's something like a heavy mirror or even a heavy picture frame you definitely need to find a stud. This stud finder is magnetic and will find the nail in the stud.

Then you would want to get your drill with a drill bit that is smaller than the nail is. Drill a hole into the wall just slightly downward, or just go straight it if you're not confident with your angles. Only drill in a couple inches. Do not try to drill or nail right where the stud finder found the nail, considering that there is already a nail there. Up and down the entire length of the wall where the stud finder sticks to is fair game to nail things, and there should be another stud every X feet or so (it depends).

Now you can hammer your nail in, just go easy with nice even soft strokes. And hold the hammer all the way up by the metal part for accuracy.

This all probably sounds tedious for this one project, but if you plan on hanging up more and more things it's a good idea to practice your household handiness. good luck!

I had not tested it since I don't have a moisture meter (thought they were more than they actually are, thank you for the tip!). I'm going to buy this one and I guess I'll find out in 2 days what its condition is:

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-MMD4E-Moisture-Digital/dp/B00275F5O2

I am using this one - General Tools MMD4E Digital Moisture Meter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00275F5O2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pPZUCb9ZJ61GB

I was a telecom installer/electrician for many years, and none of that "we'll just run the phone wire under the carpet/staple along the baseboard" nonsense. My boss was insistent about putting wire inside walls. Over the years we'd tried just about every stud finder available. The classic Zircon is about as good as they get... but that's not saying much. They work fine with drywall of uniform thickness, but if you're looking at older mortar/plaster on lathe or button-board walls, forget it. Believe it or not, the stud finder we used most often was a 10 inch piece of stainless steel spring/piano wire, .030" diameter I think, though maybe larger. Basically the smallest we could securely grip with the cordless drill chuck. Clip and file the end into a roughly symmetrical spear point, and run it into the wall where you intend to install a box or MPLS ring, or where you intend to anchor something to a stud. Most studs are 16" on center, so you can guesstimate a likely starting point by measuring from the corner of the room. We used that plus the Zircon to choose our starting point. If you're installing wire and hit a void, you start sawing a hole for your box/MPLS. If you hit wood and want to anchor, drill again 1/2" in either direction to find the stud center and anchor. Now, if you hit a stud and want empty wall, or hit empty wall and want a stud, start drilling more holes horizontally, about every 3/4" until you find what you want. The advantage of drilling with thin piano wire is that it's trivially easy to fill the tiny holes.

Studs run vertically, almost universally every 16" on center. there's no such thing as horizontal studs, but there will be horizontal "fire blocking" between studs like in this photo

The problem with magentic "stud finders" is they don't find studs, they find nails/screws...and it's not exactly uncommon for the drywall installer to catch the edge of a stud, or miss it entirely, and just mud over the useless screw.

a good stud sensor will show you exactly where the stud center/edges are. I've bought probably a dozen or more stud sensors over the years that have all sucked, The Franklin Prosensor looks kind of gimmicky, but it's by far the best I've ever used regardless of price.

From the pic it's hard to tell what those walls are made out of but I still wouldn't chance just putting it anywhere and hoping for the best. Suspect that it's not the answer you want to hear but the right answer is to buy a decent studfinder. Seems like a lot for just this project but if you own a house you will use it again in the future.

The low tech route is to tap your knuckle against the wall and listen for the solid spots.

It's pricey but this is the best stud finder.
https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?keywords=bf+franklin+stud+finder&qid=1574111544&sr=8-2-fkmr0

I have one of these and I love it, it's never been wrong.

http://youtu.be/IkaEXgSiFfQ

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0064EICKG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1416365966&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

Buy a kit to find out if it is really black mold. Just becuase its color is black does not mean its "black" mold.

http://www.amazon.com/5-Minute-Home-Aspergillus-Penicillium-Stachybotrys/dp/B006JAERJK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&m=A2IPZHTEAJ3FQ3&s=generic&qid=1327725345&sr=1-1&gclid=CICg_rngxsQCFQgyaQodAbMAmA

Start at the bottom. Mold needs moisture. Water tends to move down and pool. Moisture meters are not too expensive these days.

I have this magnetic stud finder that works really well.

Edit: It was available for purchase when I first made my post and now it says it's unavailable.

Z-wave is solid. It may not be "open" but they keep standards. That means devices work as they are supposed to across various controllers. Now there are some more exotic things that don't work everywhere. Like the Homeseer switches get some extra functionality when using Homeseer controller. Speaking of Homeseer, they have a rep that is active in this sub as well as reps from GE/Jasco and Innovelli. All three are great, and very helpful around here.

​

I also like using a RTL-SDR usb dongle to grab the 433mhz signals(using rtl_433) from my acurite temp/humidity sensor. That's an open RF band and is easy to parse the data into json and send via mqtt to home assistant. People use that bit of software and hardware to grab RF data from a bunch of products that are never gonna end up in the smart home section of the store.

In the USA the 1959 NEC introduced a rule that hasn't changed much to today; the “6 and 12 rule”:

210-22

>“receptacle outlets shall be installed so that no point along the floor line in any usable wall space is more than six feet, measured horizontally , from an outlet in that space.”

Communities/States sometimes make the most current NEC the local code right away, but it is not unusual for places to lag one or more code cycles behind. So it is quite possible that a mid 1960s house would have much larger distance along a wall between outlets, because they only needed to conform to the "20 foot rule" introduced in 1940 or the 1956 "12 foot rule".

Or, if there are outlets near enough to the corner on both adjacent walls, it could have been be compliant without an outlet on the 10' long wall.

Also, in some rural areas there may not have been code enforcement at the time that the home was built or added-on to, so the home was built to whatever standard the builder was accustomed to follow.

When outlets are put in at the time of build, they tend to be at consistent height. So if you have suspicion that there might be an outlet-box with the outlet removed hiding under the wallpaper, you can rub fingers along the wall at outlet height in order to feel any hollow or concealed cover behind the paper. You can also use a sensitive non-contact tester if you have one, to attempt to detect active wires behind the paper. Or use a stud-finder that has current detection. Or use a tone&probe "breaker finder".

There are such things as magnetic stud finders. They are amazing.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3d25xbSTG6N7P

Well then today's your lucky day, ladies.

An $8.99 one on Amazon sized one: http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI

+2 on this... These are great and the HDMI cable is nice... I also recommend the Magnet Stud Finder... I have one of these and love it... It sticks to the drywall screws used to hang drywall to the studs and hasn't failed me yet...

http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408654238&sr=8-1&keywords=magnet+stud+finder

I would recommend using a magnetic stud finder. They allow you to find where the drywall screws are. Once you find a screw with it, move it vertically to find at least 2 other screws to verify it's just not a stray screw. This is the one I use regularly.

Then you can mount directly into the stud.

You could also use toggler snaptoggle anchors if the studs don't line up quite where you want the mounts to be. I use these very often for monitor mounting. The drywall is plenty strong enough. These do require a 1/2" hole to be drilled, however. So keep that in mind if you will be having to patch them later.

This is by far the best one I've ever owned. Why, you ask? It's magnetic. None of that beeping crap that doesn't work half the time. This one is what you need.

Total waste in my book. All you really need is one of these magnetic ones. The fancy stuff didn't work for me but this does every time.

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PT8gzbM75ASRP

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_o0IhybXWA6YEF

If you search Google for"metal stud finder" you'll get a shit ton of results....

I have been using this one for years, with great success. It stows inside my drill case like a James Bond gadget (From Russia With Love). I have never used an electronic stud finder. The only problem I have had with this one is when I find metal studs, but I have since learned how to deal with them.

https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI?ref_=ast_bbp_dp

This is the best out there. Anything else will not be as reliable. And no batteries!

http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1343482450&sr=8-1&keywords=stud+finder

Thanks for the heads up. This is arguably a better product (it has a level built-in) at a cheaper price: https://smile.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/

StudBuddy is USA-made, however. This comes from China.

I just put this one up last weekend for my 55". I don't know if you desire articulating though, but IMHO, it folds flat enough that the articulating is just a bonus. Everything was in the kit for hardware. I know you said 60", but if it meets for weight, I'd go ahead.

https://www.amazon.com/Mounting-Dream-MD2413-MX-Articulating-400x400mm/dp/B00KXTZ3BE/ref=sr_1_13?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1478532173&sr=1-13&keywords=articulating+wall+mount


You might want to stop at the hardware store first and pick up a magnetic stud finder before ordering a mount - they are like $5-10, and handy to have if you ever want to hang anything else (shelf, large picture).
https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1479314795&sr=1-1&keywords=magnetic+stud+finder

There are actually stud finders made with rare earth magnets: http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI

I've used lots of fancy electric ones in the past. Nothing is more consistent than this cheap thing.

I own a few of these personally. Great tool!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000IKK0OI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1405916887&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

As little as possible. The more crap you have, the more it weighs you down.
That said, every home needs some necessities to get by. For me those generally involve cooking, sleeping, and repairs. I just finished watching Parks & Rec and am in a bit of a Ron Swanson mood.

For the kitchen (all recommended by America's Test Kitchen):

Victorinox 8" Chef's Knife

Victorinox Paring knife

CDN Instant Read Thermometer

Lodge 12" skillet - cheap and will last you forever

Crockpot, 6qt - the one kitchen appliance I'd cheat with. Easy delicious meals. Toss in a cheap cut of meat (chuck roast, etc), salt, pepper, garlic, onions, carrots, whatever. Let it sit for 6-8 hours. Dinner for 3 meals.

Tools:

I'd probably just pick up a cheap set of craftsman stuff (screwdrivers, hammer, sockets, pliers). Splurge on the ratchet and any power tools you need:

Bahco 3/8" ratchet - same as snapon F80 at 1/2 the price

Other misc. tools that are quite handy:

Magnetic stud finder - in a new place you're going to be hanging pictures, installing shelving, and mounting curtain rods. These are dirt cheap and super convenient.

Multimeter - Flukes will last you for life. If you need to do any electrical work, these are great. If you don't want to splurge up front just borrow them or buy a cheap $15 one at home depot.

Bedroom:

Get comfortable pillows and nice sheets. Don't get all caught up in the 1000 thread count crap, it's a hoax. Just get at least 400tc or so, and preferably egyptian or pima cotton. My favorite sheets are actually a super cheapo brand that are 60% cotton 40% polyester. I prefer them because they feel more "smooth and cool" rather than "soft and warm".

Obviously get real furniture: dresser, bed with headboard, etc.

Electronics

I won't go into too much detail here, but consider cutting the cord (/r/cordcutters).

A cheap Roku3 + netflix + an OTA antenna can go a long way.

If you have a lot of pictures/media/etc, don't forget about backups. I'd look into an inexpensive NAS, or at least a USB harddrive. They are dirt cheap and worth the insurance.

Insurance

Lastly, don't forget renters or homeowners insurance. If you are renting, you can get rather good coverage for quite cheap. I just paid around $50 for 12 months of coverage on my apartment ($15k coverage, $1k deductible). I shopped around at 5 different places and Amica came out the cheapest by FAR.

Other than that, you don't need much. Buy less crap. Don't buy some $50 automatic electronic wine opener when a $1 wine key will do the job. Same for a can opener.

I recently bought a magnetic stud finder that runs purely on a pair of magnets rather than battery. I run it in an 'S' shape across my wall and it sticks to certain areas.

Now here's the problem: What do I even do with that information? I want to hang some heavier things up (say, a mirror or something) and as far as I know you're supposed to hammer into the stud but like... if the stud finder is attaching to the metal in the frame then won't me hammering a nail into it endanger the frame? Wouldn't I be clanking right into the metal already in there? What if the thing I'm hanging needs to be attached to more than one stud and they're not close enough?

Should I mark an inch below / above / next to the spot that the stud finder attached to? How am I supposed to know that that's still part of the frame?

Ftr, this is the stud finder: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IKK0OI/

I'm sure this is all supposed to be very obvious... google seems to think so since I can't find any real resources aside from 'stud finders help you find studs'.

Thank you!

I got this thing. Works like a champ.

I really like this finder, it's cheap, easy to use, and accurate. Just make sure you use a fresh 9v Zircon StudSensor Pro SL Edge Finder Deep-Scanning Stud Finder with SpotLite Pointing System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KL7TG2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KwDjDbCSJY23J

I have a "deep reading" stud finder that worked wonders for finding studs behind thick plaster. It wasn't all that expensive either - this is what I have

Be sure to check You Tube for proper use. Just like a hand plane, card scrapers can be improperly used resulting in folks dismissing their ability. I flex mine slightly like a "U" shape and pull it towards me (paying attention to the grain so as to not dig it in).
Roamins note on quality of wood below is a good one. Soft wet pine will be difficult no matter what. You might consider purchasing some wood and letting it sit stickered (with spacers) for a while to help air it out. If you want to be completely anal about it you can test moisture content with a moisture meter which measures electrical current between 2 points through wood. http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-MMD4E-Digital-Moisture/dp/B00275F5O2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1321899651&sr=8-1 You’re looking for the wood to stabilize to your environment. Home Depot likely buys bulk from else ware and ships to your area meaning the wood will not only be green (recently cut) but will also be incredibly out of whack with your local humidity. This is why you see crazy warped boards at most big box stores.
Down the road you can look into buying from places with kiln dried and/or stabilized wood. I have the luck of living near a word supplier that ships all over while maintaining a store front for walk ins. Their stuff is great. http://www.woodworkerssource.com/ I suspect most larger cities have similar places (woodcraft being a large multi state business).

firewood moisture meter this a tool or instrument to give you the information you need. We moved in to a new to us house and the fire wood we get has a higher moisture content than I want. We made a wood dryer for the first fuel of the day. Wood dryer detail

You are doing nothing wrong. You simply need more information on what works and what moisture content burns well. A high moisture fuel will sit and not burn until the water has been baked off then start releasing heat.

Take the guesswork out of the equation:

Get yourself a moisture meter, e.g. http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-Instruments-MMD4E-Moisture/dp/B00275F5O2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413946225&sr=8-1&keywords=moisture+meter

• Measure a piece of wood that is dry - has not been out in the elements and has been in your house or dry workshop for months.
  
• Measure the wet wood.
  
• Bring the wet wood inside
  
• Periodically measure the wet wood. When it's close to the dry wood, surface/square it and use for furniture.

The two things that jump out are the downspout on the right and the windows. It's a bit difficult to tell how the roof goes there, but it looks pretty tricky and then that downspout appears to dump water right on the tricky spot - all of the downspouts need short extensions to get the water away from the corners.

Also, where the end of the gutter is right up against the side of the house. Is the gutter cap well sealed? Does the siding run behind it or did they gutter first then cut the siding around the gutter?

The windows look nice with the wide flat white area around them, but what material is that? How is it flashed to the top of the lower window, how is the upper window flashed to it? It's really difficult to build out a detail like that and make it waterproof.

You'll know more if you can figure out how high up the leak is - yes, the water can very easily move down through the wall. A moisture meter is inexpensive. Read the sheetrock inside just above the baseboard where the water is worst. Read the wall up the side of the window trim on both windows. You may get a clue from that.

It's a bit more money, but you can get Flir 1 for your cell phone - iPhone linked, but there's an Android one too. Take a look at the walls from inside and the ceiling and the side walls of that section. The moisture alone should make for cold spots, but it might be especially obvious on a cold, rainy day. Good general contractors have both moisture meters and Flir 1. Any friend that's a fireman probably has access to a Flir camera. A good home inspector has these tools. I'd offer to help, but I can tell from the architecture that you live nowhere near me.

Please update us later.

http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-Instruments-MMD4E-Moisture/dp/B00275F5O2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450843475&sr=8-1&keywords=general+moisture+meter

Been using it for years. Never found a species it didn't work on.

I think this is the one we used. We gave it away when we were done so I can't say for certain. Just make sure it has the probes like this one. They are fairly cheap. We bought a couple of them and compared. The ones that do not have probes show a much lower moisture content which is not ideal

something like this:

moisture detector

So you move a magnet around on a wall until you find a screw head?

Let me change your life, bro:

http://www.amazon.com/Zircon-StudSensor-e50-Electronic-Finder/dp/B002R5AVVY/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1408657633&sr=1-2&keywords=stud+finder

If we're going down the semi-DIY route, one of these can make life so much simpler when fixing things to walls and ceilings.

http://www.amazon.com/Zircon-StudSensor-e50-Electronic-Finder/dp/B002R5AVVY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1405644578&sr=8-3&keywords=stud+detector

And also help you avoid hitting wires or pipes. Worth every penny imo.

I'm assuming you have drywall with wood studs. All you really need is the wall mount, a drill, and a stud finder. A pencil would be useful aswell for marking stuff out.

You'll need to locate your wall studs. You can do this using a basic stud finder. Use the stud finder to locate and mark a stud close to where you want the screen to be. You might not get it exactly where you want it because studs are only placed every so often, 16" on center is common. Then after your sure a stud is there (I always knock on the wall and listen to double check) you can start to mount it. You'll need to buy the actual mount. I use this basic wall mount for one of my screens and it is quite adjustable. Align the wall mount along the stud to where you want it then drill pilot holes for the screws. After you drill the pilot holes just screw the mount in. Try pulling on it a bit just to make sure its stable and secured into the stud. Then (if you bought the mount I linked) you just screw the plate into the back of your monitor and slide it in. If all goes well it should be mounted solidly to the wall.

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-GMS120-Digital-Multi-Scanner/dp/B004TACMZ8

This detects live wires in walls, I have an older version of this and it works.

https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG

10x better than any stud finder out there. You can get a blue rebadge at Costco for a lot cheaper

Try to get something like this
ProSensor 710 Franklin Sensors ProSensor 710 Precision Stud Finder Yellow https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KFUgzbKCDT8VR

Saved me a lot of time.

https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG

Expensive, but this thing works extremely well.

Do you guys really not use Franklin 710's? They are awesome, you can even put it right over a stud, turn it on and it won't freak out. It uses multiple sensors instead of one, so it compares the relative density readings of the different sensors in one place, instead of finding a stud based on relative density from one sensor changing with movement. Plus it shows both edges of the stud at the same time.
https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG?keywords=stud+finder&qid=1540825376&sr=8-9&ref=sr_1_9

If you don't use that, go with magnets. Nothing else it worth the money.

This one works well

Thanks for this! Never thought there was a better way to find the studs.

Said in the pigs voice on Toy Story 2 "50 bucks ain't bad!"
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0064EICKG?vs=1

Black mold can cause serious healthy problems. There are mold test kits you can get at hardware stores/Home Depot/Amazon.

Fungus and mold thrive where there is moisture and poor ventilation.

Did you see the movie Alien? It's exactly like that.

Test for mold. See if the house has a warrantee on it.

I have this moisture meter. It's done well measuring some lumber that is quite wet (~22%), but this is the first time I've bought lumber from an actual lumber mill that kiln dries their wood. The guy at the mill says they dry to 7%. I can't get a reading above 1% at any spot in the wood and at any depth.

To add, the boards milled well through the jointer and the planer with no tear out. However, the resulting sawdust was quite fine and the planer chips were a little brittle.

Search pinterest or google images for "reclaimed fencing" and you'll see lots of ideas.

I like to plane them flat and do a big glue up into panels that I can use for stuff, looks really nice with all the weathered variations, just be careful you get all the screws, staples and nails out.

A metal detector is a good idea if you are gonna use power tools on any reclaimed lumber. I've got one that looks like this except its a shitty no-name off ebay, works tho.

i'm not a fan of buying kits or any sort of bargain tool sets. you get what you pay for and those i have found are usually not worth thier weight.

​

start with the basics. for pliers and screwdrivers i'd go for Klein Tools. thier 11-in-1 screwdriver is usually all I needed when going to figure out a problem in a tenant's apt. they even make precision screwdrivers. a pair of linesman plier and needlenose are both super handy. an adjustable wrench is a great tool to have. always helpful to not have to go digging for the right size. pump pliers are prefect for any stuck valve or even to get your garden hose on and off. i'd also get a voltage tester. if you do anything with electrical wiring before you zap yourself you can test if the power is on or off.

​

for a tape measure you can't go wrong with a classic Stanley. there's lots of options in this department. stanley also makes decent saws. for general purposes the SHarptooth will work. hack saws are for cutting any sort of metal. a general socket set is also good to have. if you're working with any sort of wood you'll need a good block plane. same goes for for chisels. if you're nailing on trim you'll need a nailset so you can hit the head of the nail and not the wood around it.

​

there's lots of types of utility knives available too. Stanley still makes thier classic model. Dewalt recently released a snap-off blade knife that's all-metal. i have a half dozen already, they feel good in your hand and it's easy to get a new sharp edge. Milwaukee makes flip-open utility knifes that are pretty handy too. or you could go for a classic Olfa. that metal tail doubles as a paint can opener.

​

a good pair of Aviation Snips will do a lot for you. they're great for cutting sheet metal, siding, metal fencing or even some plastics.

​

i buy all my Squares and Levels from Empire Tools. start with a torpedo level. they're the most handy and most often used in my kits. from hanging paintings to leveling your stove to building a workbench.

​

i've had lots of hammers, currently use Stiletto ones but a good Estwing will last you a lifetime. they also make the best small pry bar.

​

good paintbrushes are easy to find. Wooster makes a few. just make sure you clean them well after each use and store them either in the original packaging or wrapped in newspaper so you don't ruin the bristles.

​

clamps are always handy in and around the house and shop.

​

a good caulk gun like this Tajima is last you a lifetime.

​

if you're doing any sort of furniture making get yourself a kregjig. it's a pocket hole jig. worth every penny!

​

want to get fancy? get a stud finder. ditch the battery ones and go for a Studpop. it finds the screws or nails already holding up your drywall.

​

don't know if you're considering cordless power tools. personally, i'd get into the Milwaukee M12 line. you can start with a basic set and expand from there. it's one of the largest lines of 12V tools and they're as powerful if not more powerful than some 18V tools. i know a plumber who uses them exclusively because every power tool he needs is run of the same battery. you can always add tools or bigger capacity batteries as you need them later from their full line.

​

let me know if you want more info or ideas or need help sourcing particular tools. my brother used to run a tool and hardware store so i've been looking for the best of the best for years.

​

I have a Zircon I picked up on Amazon for pretty cheap. Nothing fancy, but has worked pretty well so far.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZF8Y6ZW

I have this one. Zircon MetalliScanner m40- FFP... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZF8Y6ZW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I'll second this - I have this one,which works really well and has definitely saved me some time and headache.

The chances are very very small, but if you'd like peace of mind, get a stud finder that detects ac voltage. Something like this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HTFHOEI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KUbSBbA5Y5XNR

Yeah they do have smaller cheaper ones that work the same like this.

https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-T6-Professional-Stud-Finder/dp/B071LF2BRY

Plenty big enough to fully cover a stud. Actually I don't know why the longer ones need to be so long.

I've had studfinders like yours and had the the same issues. I recently bought this one and it works really well. Also lights up multiple lines, which makes it easy to find the center.

ProSensor T6 Professional Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LF2BRY?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Well, you need to find somewhere that sells cheap tools, perhaps a second hand tools place or a garage sale :)


Edit: here are the things you need, these are way way overkill for the job though and will run you about $55 if you get free shipping.

http://www.amazon.com/Decker-DR260C-5-2-Amp-Driver-8-Inch/dp/B00T2VJ93C/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1463019428&sr=1-1&keywords=drill&refinements=p_36%3A1253528011

http://www.amazon.com/Coolshare-Awesome-Craftsman-61-Pc-Accessory/dp/B0140PDXW2/ref=sr_1_11?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1463019496&sr=1-11&keywords=twist+drill+bits

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-SF100-Wood-Finder/dp/B00020JOFA/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1463019602&sr=8-16&keywords=stud+detector

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-60-100-10-Piece-Standard-Screwdriver/dp/B0000950PN/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1463019662&sr=8-6&keywords=philips+screwdriver

What about a simple articulating wall mount like this ?
I used a really similar one (maybe this exact one) to mount a ~24" tv in my bedroom. Folds right up to the wall when I need it out of the way and pulls out & swings around in any direction when needed.

**Edit- And in terms of being nervous about mounting to the walls, just buy or borrow a cheap studfinder. You'll have no problem supporting a small tv with a couple of screws into a stud!

I have a tool bag for in the house. I keep all the usual items. I can take a picture of it for ya when I get home.

​

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DG5543-Inch-Tradesmans-Tool/dp/B001P30BO6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=dewalt+tool+bag&qid=1563036747&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

Out in the garage the other post got it right with the Harbor Freight tool Chests. You can't go wrong with them. They will hold up and last you forever.

​

You want to keep stuff off the floor so I would recommend these

https://www.samsclub.com/p/members-mark-4-shelf-industrial-storage-rack/prod22160218?xid=plp_product_1_3

they are 2 Feet deep so can hold a lot.

If you buy two you can actually fill up a whole wall.

​

I like these as parts organizers in my garage, Milwaukee makes good ones also. You don't want to go cheap on these, it is a bad day when you go to carry it somewhere and the latch breaks and spills out 1000 screws

​

https://www.amazon.com/DeWalt-DWST14825-10-Compartment-Organizer-Metal/dp/B00AUVX394/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3DS66NM6H7SBY&keywords=dewalt+storage+organizer&qid=1563037131&s=gateway&sprefix=dewalt+storage%2Caps%2C224&sr=8-4

​

I use one like this in the house to hold small parts

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-25-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B00005QWYF/ref=sr_1_37?keywords=parts+organizer&qid=1563037496&s=gateway&sr=8-37

​

​

​

Now for stuff I feel will change your life.

​

If you do any electrical work, or for changing face plates. This screwdriver will change your life.

https://www.amazon.com/Interchangeable-Screwdriver-Klein-Tools-67100/dp/B003FC75YE/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=klien+screwdriver+fast&qid=1563037724&s=gateway&sr=8-7

I saw a electrician using it and I had to go buy one.

​

I always have multiple sizes of these in the garage. They work great for hanging or fixing anything.

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https://www.homedepot.com/p/Deck-Mate-8-x-2-in-Star-Flat-Head-Wood-Deck-Screws-5-lbs-Pack-2DMT5/305418729

I just order Star bits instead of buying a bit set with a bunch a bits I don't use.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XYS26HQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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If you have a sawzall and some trees you need to trim these will saw through a 4 inch branch like it is butter.

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PC760R-9-Inch-Pruning-Reciprocating/dp/B005DYMRA4/ref=pd_rhf_ee_s_rp_c_0_1/130-4777576-0899065?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B005DYMRA4&pd_rd_r=b176538d-8b66-4ae2-ae89-92e5aef62a85&pd_rd_w=eLDwX&pd_rd_wg=Z1XlH&pf_rd_p=4b985ee3-c51c-45b0-b742-d73501cbd701&pf_rd_r=7T9YW21VA3QFF00GFKS4&psc=1&refRID=7T9YW21VA3QFF00GFKS4

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These are great stud finders. They find the drywall screws that go in to the studs.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IKK0OI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I installed 3 of these in my garage and the light output is amazing.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078B7KG1R/ref=dp_cerb_1

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can't think of anything else right now.

https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI

This one, it's just magnetic and does not have adjustable electronic sensors.

A good cordless drill should not be skimped on. Cheap versions like ryobi, harbor freight, etc have terrible battery technology, and the things don't make it past a few charge cycles. Buddy of mine bought a ryobi cordless tool set, what a pile of junk. He only did one small shelving install with it and it wouldn't take a full charge.

Things to not skimp on:

• cordless drill. It's hard to beat this Dewalt 20V with two batteries for $99
  
  
• Multi-bit screwdriver.
  
  
• 8" adjustable wrench
  
  
• groove lock pliers
  
  
• Magnetic Stud Finder
  
  
• Hacksaw
  
  All of the above will cost about $150, should be enough for most home repairs, and will last a lifetime (Well, the Drill will last ~10 years or so, no battery powered thing is BIFL).
  
  
  Avoid these brands:
  
  black and decker
  
  Ryobi
  
  Craftsman
  
  
  These brands tend to make quality tools:
  
  Dewalt
  
  Makita
  
  Milwaukee
  
  Bosch
  
  Porter Cable
  
  Hitachi

This is what I use in my old house: CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t5StDb0W5KXV8

This magnetic stud finder works very well. It has powerful magnets that will work through thick drywall and it will last forever.

http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI I've used this for years and will never use anything else again... yea it's just a magnet

Or a strong magnet would be less expensive. I have a "stud finder" that would work for less than $10

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_8TGnxbW5CPNJ9

Thanks for the diagram, that's interesting.

This studfinder uses super strong magnets to detect the screws/nails, and actually sticks to them through the drywall. It's this thing. Seems to work great.. and that's the only spot it picks up any metal.

I've had expensive and shitty stud finders before. Then I got this for 9 dollars including shipping and it made me feel like an idiot. It's 100% consistent and effective. I have no idea why this isn't the standard object that people are referring to when they're talking about stud finders. I used to get the cheap electronic ones and I'd sit there trying to confirm that I'd actually found the stud and still miss it half the time.

Have you tried a strong magnet to find the nails in the studs? Something like this might work http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408676127&sr=8-1&keywords=magnet+stud+finder

How strong of a magnet are you using? If the plaster is thick, it needs to be very strong, and you need to watch very carefully (and hold it very loosely, or dangle it from a string.) I use one of these, and it just barely does it for my plaster walls, and it was a pain in the ass.

Also, are you finding multiple nails, and then connecting them vertically to find the stud? I found there was all kinds of random metal shit in my wall apparently, but the only clear vertical lines were studs. FWIW, there was not a stud by my outlet box either (I don't even wanna know how crazy the electric is in my apartment.)

The magnet ended up working for me, but next option was to remove the baseboard and see if that helped, and if not, drill little holes underneath till I found the stud. As long as you put the baseboard back on, there's no harm in it.

This is the correct answer. You need a stud finder, to find out where the wooden beams that support your wall are. Once you know where they run, that's where you put your nails/screws. Load bearing.

I got one of these from my brother in law for Christmas one year and it’s my go to stud finder now:

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_lh7GDbK6PMJF5

I use this magnetic stud finder.

> Zircon stud finder

I am a very handy person and those things suck. Get a magnetic one and use the tip about outlets and you should be good.

E: I have this one: https://smile.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=stud+finder&qid=1558706765&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I use one of these for marking studs

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_acpCzbE82Y34Q

Another comment said fiberglass fishing sticks, I use those extensively (cable installer) as well as using fish tape when you need something more flexible

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGZ9TM2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdo_vepCzbK7AKCQF

Drilling up from the bottom is probably best, just take your time to scout out power lines and studs so you don't hit anything unexpected. Something I do whenever I cut in new outlets is cut the drywall first and stick a light in the hole, drill (everything is attics in SW Florida) and see if I can see the light. It's better to drill a couple times than cut extra holes in the drywall.

Try a magnet. Itll hit on the nails or screws. Should give you a general indication of the studs.

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_8XRMDb259QETV

What sort of stud finder are you using? I've found the electronic ones to be worse than useless. A magnetic stud finder takes a little getting used to, but is reliable.

Testing for a stud requires some experience. Don't be discouraged if you mess it up a few times. I've found drilling very small holes to be the easiest way to check for a stud. Drywall dust is white on the drill bit. If you hit a stud you'll see some wood sawdust on the drill bit.

As for anchors, just consider that no matter what the weight rating says, you're anchoring into drywall and drywall is weak. Keeping one side in a stud seems like a good plan here.

Edit: nevermind, I see the stud finder in your picture. Throw that POS away. It's more of a random noise generator than a stud finder. Get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_v1AXDbB1NDN7K

http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI

It looks like it.

I have one of these, it has been a life saver in a house with plaster and lath.

That's basically all my "stud finder" is.

Assuming you had an inspection done you really don't have any tests to do as they all should already have been done. (Toxins in paint and such)

Locate your main water valve, main gas valve and meter, and breaker panel. Just so you know where they are. Open breaker panel, identify which breaker controls what. Hopefully they are marked.

Get a pair of bolt cutters. I've used mine many times for random jobs around the house. Speaking of tools, a basic $100 toolset comes in handy all the time and you'll never regret investing in a quality battery powered drill.

Change the code to the garage door opener.

Change locks on doors.

Take a lot of "before" pics. It's fun to look back and see how much your home has changed.

Look into rebates that are offered by your local utility companies ( electricity and gas). They'll usually give you free LED light bulbs, or great deals on random things like that. And where I live they'll even come out and do different audits for free to make sure things are running smoothly in your home.

Look into Sonic Internet in your area. I've heard good things about them lately.

Home improvement can quickly become overwhelming. Expect to get overwhelmed. Then expect to get inspired again.

Back to tools, get a quality stud finder. Not a hyped up beeping led one. Just a solid magnet one. Like this one. http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1451979365&sr=1-1&keywords=stud+finder

Before you attempt to fix something, always just check out a video or two on YouTube. They will point out things like why you should not over tighten the bolts on your toilet. (I learned that one the hard way). Since then I always try to watch a video before fixing something. They will usually point out safety things and other "gotchas" that you should be aware of.

Can't think of much else right now. Good luck and congrats!

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_59BSCbASZJQKE

For less than $8, I really like this stud finder. And since it’s a magnet, there are no batteries to worry about for it.

I have this one: http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427123016&sr=8-1&keywords=magnet+stud+finder

I like it a lot better than most electronic versions. Also, you could just buy the magnets and make one yourself.

I purchased this guy .. but it wasn’t of much use to me.
I’m so terrified of not cutting in between the two studs and having a huge chunk missing. Do you have any specific videos to recommend?

Thank you so much for your help!

Wall stud detectors, at least the one I have, are Neodymium magnets in plastic frame. Great at finding nails in the wall and since I already have this one, no need to purchase one. Very useful.

Confirmed - verified purchaser:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IKK0OI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Patience, padawan; I'm on my flight back as I type this!

You're going to want a second pair of hands regardless to hold stuff in place while you drill and tighten. I'm not sure what they mean by "two drywalls"; it sounds as though they layered it, but to my totally unprofessional self, that sounds silly.

16" apart ("on center" is the terminology used in construction) is standard for non-load-bearing studs, but you really can't trust it. Mine ended up ranging from 14" to 28" apart. Get a studfinder and mark them out; this one is super cheap, and works very well for metal studs.

Could you link me to or post an image of your mounting bracket? The primary reason I used plywood is that the bracket I got stupidly wasn't wide-enough to span even two studs. If you can hit at least two with yours, I'd say it's safe to forgo the plywood. That's true that the plywood is only visible from the side; unfortunately, my TV location causes that to be exposed (thanks, picky roommate >_>). If that's not a concern, I see no reason not to go ham and use the plywood.

The only potential issue with using 12 toggle bolts is that you'll have twice as many holes in the drywall to patch up when you eventually move out, but that's negligible.

I'm going to non-definitively say that there's no way your studs are 1" wide. That'd break compatibility with anything intended to use the standard size for wooden studs. But hey - finding the middle of a stud is what the studfinder's for!

Magnet stud finders will never steer you wrong. Excellent little gizmo.

Do yourself a solid and buy a stud finder. The magnet kind is too cheap not to. This one at Amazon is $7 and is great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000IKK0OI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479919614&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=magnetic+stud+finder

Also, it's smart to double check what your finder tells you before actually trying to screw anything. I usually use a finish nail to probe the spot and be sure that there is actually a stud where I think there is. You never know what craziness is going on behind drywall and if you were wrong, it's super easy to repair a finish nail hole.

Good luck!

this here is the best stud finder I've ever used.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000IKK0OI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1382644668&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

Not really. I have a Zircon, not sure of the model number but I'll get it to you when I get home. It's definitely the best one I've ever used, but as far as things go that's like being the smartest kid with Downs Syndrome. It's also super cheap: http://www.amazon.com/Zircon-StudSensor-Pro-SL-Deep-Scanning/dp/B000KL7TG2/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1416506428&sr=1-5&keywords=zircon+stud+finder There's a pricier brand out there called Franklin that some people rave about but they're worthless for plaster.

Stud finder dude.

http://www.amazon.com/Zircon-StudSensor-Pro-SL-Deep-Scanning/dp/B000KL7TG2/ref=sr_1_7?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1414307284&sr=1-7&keywords=stud+finder

OMG she is sooooo cute! This pinterest may have some cool ideas for you. I think you could get away with putting shelves up, even in a rental. You'd just need to make sure you have one of these to find the studs!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KL7TG2/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1468432673&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=studfinder

This is the one I use. It has settings for checking deeper.

1. First off, there is a ridiculous science behind this topic, so I would do research as much as possible before takeling this. I learned from the plethora of You Tube videos from well known woodworkers and trial and error.
   
2. There are many ways to do it, and this is what I have been doing and it works for me.
   
3. Your first question - That all depends on how much $$ you have. For example, I do not have a lot of $, but fortunately, my basement is dryer than most. I live on a slight hill that only gets water during a hurricane (Hurricane Sandy) and my power went out so the sump pump wasn’t working. I have a nice $100 LG dehumidifier down there. Only a quarter of my walls are moisture sealed with kilz ( I built my shop prior to KILZing the walls), so the relative humidity is at constant 40-45%, which according to the chart should give me a MC of about 7-10% which is absolutely perfect in my eyes. And that is proven with a MC meter.
   
   General Tools MMD4E Moisture Meter, Pin Type, Digital LCD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00275F5O2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_qASta5WqyE9xo
   
   But this is bad if I get my wood wet (maybe over 25% MC would be considered wet). So I f I get it wet, it stays in my garage until it dips below 20%. Ambient air humidity where i live is (NE USA outside PHILA) about 15%. Once it dips below 20%, I move it into my basement. None of my projects (as of now) will be stored or placed outside. If it was an outdoor project, I would imagine outside is where I would be storing/ working on my of the projects. But since I do indoor work, I move the wood into the basement to be stored at the right time. Then when the MC gets below 10% I generally will work with it, depending on the species and my time table, and whether or not the are paying me (hahaha). Obviously, if I brought it down to the basement to quickly, that’s when problems happen.... but to me, woodworking is more about learning. how to fix your mistakes. So if there was checking or warping, knowing how to fix it, or hide it is crucial. Sometimes hiding a mistake can make the workpiece even better. Bear in mind, that I do not have a big basement so I do not work with big pieces. Big pieces I would imagine are harder to maintain and harder to hide mistakes.
   
   
4. In a perfect world, you would store the wood in the place the workpiece we placed for the rest of its life, but that could be years of storage and it impractical. The general rule of thumb is 1 year for every inch of thickness, but I have gotten them dryer, quicker than this rule and some experts will tell you that this rule is also fubar. If I was working with an expensive species, and do want to take any risks, then I would live by this rule in order to not make the slab go to waste. But I am not confident enough yet to handle that type of project without error, and I don’t have the $ to buy them yet. Generally speaking, once the species it at the proper MC (I would say 5%-8%, it ain’t moving, and you can work with it. I would assume most houses with air conditioning in the summer should be below 10% humidity.
   
   
5. Then there comes a whole other science of finishing, which is an animal in itself, I am in the middle of self teaching. I wouldn’t be a good person to tell you about finishing yet, so don’t ask... but I know if finished correctly, there should be minimal moisture exchange as the right finish should create a wall between the wood and the atmosphere, which will not allow the exchange. I could tell you what I use to prevent this (finish wise) but I do not know what kind of species you are working with nor the RAH of where you are and the RAH of where the project will be. And even if I did, I wouldn’t be a great source.
   
   I have an ongoing set of playlists on my YouTube that has helped me, one is one wood drying. If I remember led to save the video to this playlist after I watched it, then the good information is stored there...
   
   Here is the link...
   
   https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL7Ur9yvX0sMRw1UhH9CYeIcyAhW8pVRHq
   
   Feel free to check out the rest of the playlists. I am still in an ongoing process of adding to them.
   
   BTW - you will never get the MC to 0% with standard drying techniques. As long as earth has an atmosphere and there are oceans, there will be MC in wood. this to me seems completely unnecessary and impractical, although I am sure someone will argue with that cause woodworking is very dynamic and full of opinions! Hope this helps!!

In the basement? Something like this.

In the wood? This.

If your basement is constantly humid, plumb in a dehumidifier. However, in doing that, you may want to wait for it to stabilize and then re-acclimate the wood.

Yeah, sorry, no good news from me.

You can check it for moisture by using one of these,
https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-MMD4E-Moisture-Digital/dp/B00275F5O2/ref=zg_bs_553270_1/147-4890196-7509912?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HMG2MAN2HSF6RCQZ1VZN

Hopefully just bad workmanship. Might be worth picking up a moisture meter to verify that you don't have water getting in through the roof/attic

General Tools MMD4E Moisture Meter, Pin Type, Digital LCD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00275F5O2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MQV1Bb6X2HRQY

You may want to buy a mousture sensor.

General Tools MMD4E Moisture Meter, Pin Type, Digital LCD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00275F5O2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mOEvCbX3KNQNX

I have the same ceiling/texture. I have a big water spot from a fixed roof leak. While it was leaking it didnt necessarily feel moist but the meter was a good way to check.

With something like this.. although I hope the inspector has better equipment.

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-MMD4E-Moisture-High-Medium-Low/dp/B00275F5O2

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2MMYj9qY9Q

I am using a General Tools moisture meter

Do you know what kind of moisture meter they use?

Like this: https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-MMD4E-Moisture-Digital/dp/B00275F5O2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505249720&sr=8-3&keywords=moisture+meter

or this: https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-MMD4E-Moisture-Digital/dp/B00HARYVUQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505249720&sr=8-3&keywords=moisture%2Bmeter&th=1

I think you have a leak within the wall. You need to verify it, though. Pick up a budget moisture meter: https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-MMD4E-Moisture-High-Medium-Low/dp/B00275F5O2

Then you'll know for sure.

I dunno, I don't think the US would care if it violated any treaty, given the current US position on landmines.

But again this doesn't stop people it just slows them down. Landmine detectors are trivial to make. Hell, just put this on a pole:

http://www.amazon.com/Zircon-StudSensor-e50-Electronic-Finder/dp/B002R5AVVY

If you aren't there to stop people, they'll still get through, it'll just take a bit longer and maybe cost more. It's how walls work, it's how building security works, it's how safes work.

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-GMS-120-Digital-Multi-Scanner/dp/B004TACMZ8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1540874404&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bosch+stud+finder

1. Get the plans to your house. You can often get this from city hall. Keep these, you'll want them for so many projects.
   
   
2. Get an electric testing device, find out if there's any hidden electrical or pipes in the way. Both for safety, and so you can know you need to move it, which might require more drywall removed and an electrician and/or plumber. I don't actually own one, so can't recommend any specific device.
   
   
3. I would hire a structural engineer to tell you if it's possible. He'll probably want to look at the plans. If he needs to come out, ask if he needs to see inside the wall, if he does, have the drywall where the window is going cut out nicely. Try to keep it intact, as best you can, just in case you need to move the window and need to replace a portion of the wall.
   
   
4. After you have the permits and the go-ahead, it should be fairly easy. For the aluminum siding, you might make it look ugly, but just a $30 angle grinder should cut the hole easily. Otherwise, you do it properly and remove the entire length of the siding, cutting it, and replacing it.

Tap on the wall with your knuckle and listen for the difference in sound, good stud finders can be had for fairly cheap as well.


ProSensor 710 Franklin Sensors ProSensor 710 Precision Stud Finder Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aw4Dyb0DQVVAB

Get one of these at Costco for ~$30 (their version is blue). Not only does it find studs instantly without having to move it around, but it shows you how thick they are.

https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG/

Some good suggestions in here so far. I agree you're probably fine.

Fyi the best settling stud finders are pretty hit or miss. If you want more confidence try a Franklin. It's not magic but multitudes better than what people usually buy.

ProSensor 710 Franklin Sensors ProSensor 710 Precision Stud Finder Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TGW-zbRWZQ746

My studfinder is shit. My old boss had a seriously nice one for about $60 that had ~12 LED's that would light up in succession around a stud (mine was $15 and had a wildly inaccurate single LED).

Still, find an outlet, measure 16" from one side and start knocking. Then punch a bunch of skinny nails through in 1/4" increments wherever it feels solid. If you're gonna mount a TV in your apartment, a few tiny nailholes (especially in a row that are super easy to spackle over) aren't gonna ruin your deposit. Then pull 16" from that nailhole and there should be another stud. I've hung 6 tv's in the last 5 years, it's not rocket science.

Edit: it's actually only $50 on Amazon ProSensor 710 Franklin Sensors ProSensor 710 Precision Stud Finder Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bRYxzbDXXJHSW

I have one of these and it works very well, Costco sells the same thing in blue for about $40. Not the cheapest thing out there but I'm happy with it. Just keep in mind if you have thick plaster or double drywall and stud finder is probably going to have trouble.

https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1496872543&sr=1-7&keywords=stud+finder

> Get these magnetic stud finders, rather than wasting money on an electronic stud finder. I own like 4 electronic stud finders, and none of them work as well as these.

This electronic stud finder is quite possibly the best one I've ever used: https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1496427688&sr=1-8&keywords=stud+finder

I have a lot of horsehair plaster walls, and I have had decent luck with https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG . It's not perfect, but better than Zircon I have tried.

Those finders suck. Get the thirty dollar one from Costco. It doesn't have a wire detector but those aren't accurate anyways.

Cut a small hole... Investigate for wires... If there's something behind it, patch it and don't worry bc a tv will cover it up if it isn't perfect

It's basically this but in blue :
ProSensor 710 Franklin Sensors ProSensor 710 Precision Stud Finder Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DI4Azb3WKT65H

>DAE grubs?

I heard you buy a bag of grub killer and spread it in your yard.

>What common things?

Get a stud finder like this there's a knockoff blue version you can get at Costco too.

>should I insulate it and is that difficult to do?

Insulating is easy. It's putting up all the drywall and prepping it for painting that's a pain in the ass.

>Is it expensive to replace a door?

Depends on your definition of expensive. I'd say 4-600. A general contractor or a handyman with experience in doors could help.

YMMV but I have one of these, and while it definitely will magnetize itself to a screw you have to have faith that the people who put up your drywall got all the screws nicely into the middle of the stud. The people who built my house definitely didnt. The studs arent all perfectly 16 inches on centre either. After using this while mounting a large tv and putting a bunch of unnecessary holes in our walls to find the studs we bought a sensor one it made sense for us to pay the extra for peace of mind because we were renovating and hanging a bunch of heavy things though

http://www.amazon.com/5-Minute-Home-Aspergillus-Penicillium-Stachybotrys/dp/B006JAERJK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408588717&sr=8-1&keywords=mold+test+kit

OK. Let's do a quick test:

https://www.amazon.com/Healthful-Aspergillus-Penicillium-Stachybotrys-Consultation/dp/B006JAERJK/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_201_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1Z8CMY8444APS7DSE25X

It is reliable, and you will hear within minutes "see, I told you so".

I use one of these. My rule of thumb is that typically fresh wood is 25% (wet?) and you want stuff to be in the 5-10% range. I think this can take 6ish months but it depends on humidity, thickness and how you store the wood. I have a big rack of oak slabs that I stacked with sticks in between. I'm no expert though.

The slab is about 3" thick throughout. I was told that it dried outside for almost 10 years before being planed and finished, but that was in the Philippines which has a much higher equilibrium moisture content. Also, it was moved from the Philippines to Nebraska. In February. A bit of a temperature change as well.

I bought this $20 moisture meter from amazon, and should be able to report the results this weekend: http://www.amazon.com/Dr-Meter%C2%AE-MD-812-Display-Digital-Moisture/dp/B008V6I840/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458875725&sr=8-1&keywords=wood+moisture+meter

I'm not around enough to do the job myself, and I trust a professional to do the job much better than I. I'll certainly be discussing the options with him though, so I'm very appreciative of your advice. I spoke to a few different people, some who recommended just epoxy and some butterfly inlays in addition to the epoxy. I only got one actual price quote, which was $1,500- that was just epoxy, but of course would include refinishing the table.

Oh ya definitely mildew. And it a lot less than I thought it would be. It'll most likely come off with just a good scrubbing. I highly doubt you have any other moisture problems. But if you want to be extra sure we use a much more expensive version of this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008V6I840/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_l0KIzbSB2HS4T

Is the bathroom on the top floor of the house?

Is there an exhaust fan in the bathroom? If so and it's a older one that's not quite up to snuff anymore I would suggest replacing it or at least cleaning it out.

Non-mobile: Moisture meters

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

Embedded nails in pallet boards can be very difficult to see, and can certainly do some serious damage to your tools.

You may want to invest in a handheld metal detector.

Here's a link:

https://www.amazon.com/SUNKEE-Soil-Hygrometer-Moisture-Sensor/dp/B00AYCNEKW%3FSubscriptionId%3DAKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q%26tag%3Dduckduckgo-d-20%26linkCode%3Dxm2%26camp%3D2025%26creative%3D165953%26creativeASIN%3DB00AYCNEKW

Thanks! I'm more than happy to answer any question you have about my setup.

So I'm using the RPi and controlling stuff using the Wolfram Language. With one line of code I can turn on/off the lights or read/write to other devices/sensors.

For temp/humidity I'm using the DHT22 sensor.

Hygrometer is this one

And light sensor

I setup some cronjobs to control the lights.

It's still in beta shape. Lights are working but I still need to automate the other sensors.

I'm not using an Android app. What I'm thinking is adding to my code some lines to publish my stats in the Wolfram Cloud so I'll always have access to a log/dashboard online.

It confuses me because there are 2 sticks for ground

https://www.amazon.in/Absolute-Electronics-Soil-Moisture-Testing/dp/B00AYCNEKW M:

Your post says soil humidity but you should clarify a bit more.

If you are looking for sensors that measure air humidity, you can easily use a DHT11, DHT22, or for more precision a HTU21DF. If you don't want them to get wet then simply come up with some sort of enclosure (Tupperware, empty yogurt container, whatever) drill some holes for ventilation and put the lid on, with adequate holes it can still read humidity and remain dry.

If you mean soil moisture, then you can buy one of those moisture sensors (like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AYCNEKW/ref=pd_aw_lpo_328_lp_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=G9FJ3BJ3B69VC9XKCVA3) and just... Well... Stick it in the dirt. Done.

If I haven't answered the question then let me know!

Sorry for link formatting, am on mobile and too lazy to look for code.

Thanks for the reply! Using a studpop to locate studs.

So I can't screw anchors into that metal drywall corner correct?

And you're saying I can use toggle bolts wherever on the wall even if there isn't a stud? That's awesome. The shades are a bit heavy but I'm not going to be putting my weight on them. So if I can just put those anchors in anywhere I'd be pretty satisfied with that as a solution. Also as a sidenote, I also ordered this. There's nothing in here that can freely support the curtains and curtain rod right?

Depends on what type of plaster and lath you have (wire mesh is going to be your worst case). Normal wood lath and plaster, use a zircon to get you roughly in the area, and then a magnet to find the lath nails

here's the magnet i like"

https://www.amazon.com/Studpop%C2%AE-100480-SP-Studpop-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B00FRI5TMY

and heres the zircon:

https://www.amazon.com/Zircon-MultiScanner-i520-FFP-Finding-Detection/dp/B01J39MJEI

Try this one. Seems to have a favorable review.

> professional to look at it?

Probably not, but you'll want to get it dried up ASAP. It can mold if it stays wet for a day or two. Especially if you have sawdust in the cavities. Drywall can dry out pretty quickly, or it can grow nasty mold if it doesn't have moving air to dry it.

I had a similar leak and I drilled several 1.5" holes in the downstairs wall and pointed a fan into the holes. I read that insulation doesn't dry out and I freaked out and pulled out the whole drywall panel a day later — but it was completely dry by then. You just need to force air through any wet cavities. You can rent high volume blowers at big box hardware stores or tool rentals.

Consider removing the affected baseboards to facilitate airflow.

If you like tools, you can get a moisture meter to verify that things are drying out.

Sometimes it is just easier just to buy

https://www.amazon.com/AcuRite-06002M-Wireless-Temperature-Humidity/dp/B00T0K8NXC

There are basically 4 different sensor categories for my application.


  

1. USB logger

This plugs directly into the USB port on the Mac. They range wildly in price, sometimes costing close to $1k (which is way out of my budget).

Examples: TEMPerHUM, Omega, Lascar, Extech, TemperatureAlert, and more here

The problem is that, for whatever reason, these USB loggers are only compatible with Windows. The five above examples are Windows only.

The only logger that I have found that is Mac compatible is the Minnow. However, I spoke with the manufacturer and realized that it is not designed to be a real-time USB logger; the unit will quickly overheat. The workaround is to incorporate a USB relay switch to manually connect/disconnect the Minnow periodically from the Mac.

  

2. Bluetooth

Examples: Blustream, SensorPush, D'Addario Humiditrak, Eve Degree, and more here

The problem is that all of these products have an iOS app, but no macOS app.

But If I purchased the SensorPush sensor along with the $100 SensorPush WiFi Gateway, I can access the data over the internet.

But there are cheaper WiFi options, like the ConnectSense (won't be shipping until early 2019), Proteus, and La Crosse. But, I am hesitant to fully depend on an internet connection to get the data (i.e., if the internet goes down, then I would lose access to the data, which is not ideal).




  

3. RF

AcuRite sells a $13 Wireless Temperature and Humidity Sensor (model # 06002M) that transmits every 16 seconds using a 433 MHz wireless signal with a maximum range of 330'. This sensor is inexpensive because it is designed to be used with AcuRite Access and the AcuRite weather station products, which I do not want or need. It's all proprietary.

However, some people have reverse-engineered the radio signal to decode the data stream from this sensor if you have a USB RF receiver.

Examples:

• Acurite-00592TX-Decoder-ESP32a (C++)
  
  
• YouTube - Decoding Low Power Devices on MAC OSX Using RTL433
  
  
• rtl_433 (C) (device protocol #11)
  
  
• "Reverse Engineer Wireless Rain Sensors — Part 1"
  
  
• "Wireless Temperature Sensor"
  
  
  This path appears frustrating and difficult to a neophyte like me.
  
  
  
    
  
  

  4. DIY microcontroller
  

  
  Unlike the other 3 sensor categories, this looks like the one area where proprietary protocols are not in the way of progress. Once you get everything set up, accessing the raw data is a breeze.
  
  This is probably the most cost-effective option.
  
  Examples: Raspberry Pi + this $10 DHT22 sensor, Arduino, Espressif esp8266/esp32 wifi module
  
  The problem is that this is simply over my head. I have no real experience programming from the command line or really anything other than basic scripts. It would just be best if I paid someone to set this up for me, as I can easily envision myself spending 100 hours on this "simple" project.
  
    
  
  
  
  

Hey thanks for the quick response! Okay, so here's what I'm looking at ordering. If you could comment that it has all the right components for what you have set up, or if I'm missing anything, or if anything is unnecessary, I'd really appreciate the input!

Here's my shopping cart:

• AcuRite 01036 Pro Weather Station with PC Connect, 5-in-1 Weather Sensor
  
• AcuRite 06003 PRO+ Upgrade for 5-in-1 Weather Sensor
  
• AcuRite 09150 smartHUB with My AcuRite Remote Monitoring App
  
• AcuRite 06002RM Wireless Temperature and Humidity Sensor (getting 4 of these)
  
  From my understanding with this I should be able to get everything I want, including the data logging/recording to PC.
  
  For your signal strength issue, are you aware of this product at all? AcuRite 06053M Wireless Signal Extender for Sensors
  
  Thanks for your input!

You can use these with a RTL-SDR setup. It's well supported in linux.

I'm trying this one which I found recommended in another thread:

Zircon m40-FFP Handheld Electronic Metal Detector for Use on Dry Wall, Concrete, Plaster, Stucco and More with Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZF8Y6ZW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3oFPybX6HA6ZJ

Stud finders work terribly on lath and plaster. Buy this hand-held metal detector instead:

https://www.amazon.com/Zircon-m40-FFP-Handheld-Electronic-Detector/dp/B00ZF8Y6ZW

You'll use this to sense the metal nails that hold the lath strips to the stud. So it's basically a "stud finder" for lath and plaster.

Don't screw anything into the lath, even with toggle bolts. Find the studs and screw into them. Screw into the middle of the stud and you won't hit any wiring.

P.S. save up $70 for the speaker stands and don't destroy these awesome old walls.

Buy this thing fam

I have some experience with this.

1. Get a good stud finder. Most won’t work with lathe and plaster. This one does for my house. Your mileage may vary so buy from somewhere with an easy return policy:
   https://www.amazon.com/Franklin-Sensors-FS710PROProSensor-Professional-Finder/dp/B0195K8OT4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1519272814&sr=8-4&keywords=ProSensor%2B710&th=1
   
   (Sometimes available at Costco)
   
   
2. Get a mounting bracket than will span between two studs.
   
   
3. Buy good lag screws (not too thick as your tv isn’t that heavy) vs. the typically crappy ones that come with the bracket. Something that looks like this (not necessarily these exactly):
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074ZMZMT9/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b16qtJ_c_x_2_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-4&pf_rd_r=J14PERT8ZSKA9GRZVC1H&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=c0cdc314-6aee-50c9-b0bb-83f1e9593841&pf_rd_i=1640962
   
   
4. Mark where the bolts will go on the wall and predrill.
   
   
5. Mount the bracket using the screws but don’t overtighten as that will crack the plaster.
   
   Good luck.

+1 on the level. I also recommend a good stud finder too. I use this one and it works really well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019HKNO1A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Best 25 bucks I've spent as a home owner. stud finder

Get a stud locator, then you'll know where the framing is.

A decent electronic stud finder

A moisture meter for wood is cheap $15. 12% is good. In the sun they may get even drier and shrink more

It's pretty much impossible to find seasoned firewood... people say its seasoned but their full of BS. Build a rick and buy in the spring.

Save yourself some trouble and get a wood moisture tester for $15 - https://www.amazon.com/Proster-Moisture-Handheld-Detector-Measuring/dp/B01MV3PSF6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=firewood+tester&qid=1571346892&sr=8-1

If it reads above 20% just walk away.

Honestly I've tried a bunch of different stud finders with bad results like you indicated. I bought this one https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-T6-Professional-Stud-Finder/dp/B071LF2BRY a few years back and have never missed a stud for anchoring or cutting in new electrical boxes.
The magnet method works good as well. My pops used to use it with a little device like this one https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Stanley-47-400-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B002YCSIJC

Franklin sensors are my personal preference.

Just hold the button and slide across the wall.
No other stud finder works as reliably or are as easy to use.

https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-T6-Professional-Stud-Finder/dp/B071LF2BRY/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1504561130&sr=1-8&keywords=stud+finder

Here is the mobile version of your link

I swear by this one. http://amzn.com/B000IKK0OI It hasn't failed me yet.

Here is the desktop version of your link

I use a Franklin
https://www.amazon.ca/Franklin-Sensors-ProSensor-710-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG

Which is very similar. Best and easiest stud finder I've ever used.

Only problem is that it is always going off whenever I walk by. :). Lol.