Best screwdriver sets according to redditors
We found 686 Reddit comments discussing the best screwdriver sets. We ranked the 200 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 686 Reddit comments discussing the best screwdriver sets. We ranked the 200 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
If you use one of the new Raspberry Pi model B+'s it would be cheaper, since it has four USB ports already. They didn't have them available when I bought the parts for this. Here is a list of parts I used.
Raspberry Pi Model B $35
x2 Panel Mount USB Female to Male $10
Panel mount HDMI Cable $6
Security bit screwdriver $10
x2 SNES USB controllers $20
WiPi wireless adapter $15 not needed unless you want network access
Mini SPST 0.5-Amp Momentary Switch $4
6V 5mm LED $4 Use whatever color you want. Plugged into GPIO pins 2 and 6 to indicate power. Should use a 1ohm resistor too but it will work without it.
Total: $104ish? Not including all the tools and misc stuff.
The rest of it is mostly spare wire and connectors I had lying around. You will need some wire strippers, a multimeter, a drill, a dremmel... it will help, some lexan to mount the parts to(you can get this at home depot), a 5v power brick with at least 1.5A output, some normal motherboard standoffs and screws, a micro usb connector, and some extra wire. There are probably other things I forgot, but that's most of it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FZ5DSWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_befwDb2W9WP1E
Found this during a trip to Taipei. It's a cute little EDC set I keep in my pack that I thought some might find interesting. It's very thin and lightweight, while being good quality.
It was cheaper in Taiwan ($15 USD) but even at amazon price it's not bad I think.
http://www.amazon.com/Moody-Tools-58-0670-Extractor-Reversible/dp/B000JCT3W0
My Name is Ian, or CMF Metalworks, and I am a full time Knife maker. I do carry everything pictured every day.
Item 1: UE Boom 2
https://www.amazon.com/Phantom-Wireless-Bluetooth-Waterproof-Shockproof/dp/B014M8ZO8S/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1487348943&sr=1-2&keywords=ue+boom+2
Item 2:Sony a6000 camera
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-Mirrorless-Digital-Camera-16-50mm/dp/B00I8BICB2/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1487348994&sr=1-3&keywords=sony+a6000
Item 3:Blue Loctite 242
Item 4:Leatherman Sidekick- Easily my most useful tool. https://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-Sidekick-Multi-Tool-Black-Sheath/dp/B0058EJ2ZM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1487349131&sr=8-3&keywords=leatherman+sidekick
Item 4:Spyderco Rubicon in S30v https://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-C187CFP-Rubicon-Folding-3-04-Inch/dp/B00KQ493TO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487349175&sr=8-1&keywords=spyderco+rubicon
Item 5: Spyderco Nirvana with a custom Mokuti clip i made. http://www.bladehq.com/item--Spyderco-Rassenti-Nirvana-Integral--30367
Item 6: Ares tool kit, its okay for the price, but it has some bits i use a lot so it makes the cut. https://www.amazon.com/61-Piece-Security-Extension-70010-Resistant/dp/B0192FI1Q8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487349385&sr=8-1&keywords=61-Piece+Security+Bit+Set+with+Magnetic+Extension+Bit+Holder%7C+ARES+70010%7C+Includes+Tamper+Resistant+Metric+Hex+and+Star+Bits%7C+Slotted%2C+Pozi%2C+Philips%2C+Square%2C+Spanner%2C+Metric+Hex+and+Star+Bits
Item 7: WIha Driver set. Best you can buy. https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-36291-Screwdriver-Torx-Piece/dp/B002C582AQ/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1487349443&sr=8-9&keywords=wiha+torx
Item 8: 10 weight nano oil
item 9:Krazy glue
Item 10:GO PRO hero 4 silver
Item 11: Wiha 65 piece tool kit. Its like a container of magic. https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-75965-Precision-Ratchet-65-Piece/dp/B00JQ753W8/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1487349443&sr=8-14&keywords=wiha+torx
Item 12: Godspeedtactical Hanky Godspeedtactical.com
Item 13: Macbook pro Early 2016
Item 14:GDOK EX10 inlay version Midtech Balisong
Item 15: Maxpedition Backpack http://www.bladehq.com/item--Maxpedition-Falcon-III-Backpack--32877
> Instead of buying a single 00, id recommend the whole iFixit screwdriver kit. $30.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008HYVG6I/
135 piece TEKTON set with more than double the bits and almost the same price.
I bought this, and now I fear no screw.
Keep them clean, if you have any problems take them back to your doctor immediately, keep a Jewelers Precision Screwdriver Set where you know where its at in your house AND in your car for emergency repairs, keep a tiny little bottle of cleaning spray in your car, near where you keep your glasses at night, and with you at all times for cleaning.
Study ohm's law and battery safety. If used improperly, mech mods can become a pipebomb.
That being said, here's a list of stuff you should get.
Allen wrench / hex driver set. This one is overkill, but you'll probably not ever need another bit unless you lose them.
My laptop bag:
It's pretty clear I primarily work in server rooms and datacenters :P
https://smile.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Precision-Magnetic-Opening-Tweezer/dp/B019ZSK57K
$9 kit includes two triwing bits and pry tools.
as far as dismantling goes, the switch seems to be the easiest one in recent time.
Hey there! I started circuit bending a year or so ago and I was asking a lot of the same questions as you.
Google around for circuit bending tutorials and you are bound to find some.
Here's what worked for me:
-These are usually found in thrift stores, like Goodwill.
-Don't buy new toys from a department store, they usually have electronic components that are more modern and harder to mess with.
-Don't spend a lot of money on a thing unless you are certain you know exactly how you are going to mess with it. I'm poor, so saving money was a huge aspect for me.
-Look for stuff that was made somewhere between 1980 - 2005ish. test it out in the store first to make sure it makes noises, the more the better. (You can sometimes hear if a toy is older, its sounds sometimes sound a bit more 'low-quality' or something... At least to me. One indicator is this: If the batteries are running low, a good toy to circuit bend will make some odd sounds.)
-solder
-a soldering iron
-Alligator leads(clips)
-Several screwdrivers of varying sizes.
-Several smaller screwdrivers
-wire
-resistors (look online for more details)
-These are the basics, but there may be more you need. Look online more.
-Use an area with good light.
-Google for tutorials for your specific item. You might have gotten lucky and gotten a commonly circuit-bent item.
-Google for tutorials for specific effects. You might want to make your item make certain sounds. Google will help you find people who have done it before you, if it has been done.
-Google for tutorials for any questions you have. People have probably asked it before. If you get stuck, phrase your question as many ways as possible and Google the variations. You will find answers, even if they are not the specific ones you were looking for. All information you digest will help you better learn this game of circuit bending.
Yeah man... I dunno. Just use Google and if you're really into it, keep reading more about it. Stop by every thrift store you see or if you're loaded, buy whatever shit you wanna bend on Ebay. Buy the stuff you need online, at local electronic stores, or if you absolutely have to, radio shack.
Here's a good site to start. Just read.
ProTip: A set of Bondhus hex drivers changed my life. I haven't ruined a printer screw in months.
These wrenches are the best there is:
Bondhus 20399 Ball End L-Wrench Double Pack with BriteGuard and GoldGuard Finish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00132CGTW
And drivers:
Bondhus 10687 Set of 7 Balldriver... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O4ADI
www.amazon.com/Wiha-36291-Screwdriver-Torx-Piece/dp/B002C582AQ/
Or even better, buy a 45 in 1 precision kit for 10$. I have a different kit for a few years now and it has been incredibly useful.
you need a swiss army knife and a set of tweezers. ^^^/s
yes but if it isn't magnetic you are in for a bad time my friend.
I use this set
If my comment wasnt clear enough, something like this will help a lot.
Stanley 66-039 6-Piece Jewelers Precision Screwdriver Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002X29G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Knb.BbBS35GR0
This Hozan set is only $17. It's not that much money to have the correct tools for the job.
I do like your idea about swapping them, though.
Jewler's screw drivers?
Are you an Amazon Prime member? Amazon now - guaranteed 2 hour delivery. Here's an $8 set.
I use these. I got them at a local hardware store for $6. I like them because I can grip against the wire when I wrap and can pinch the coil against the screwdriver.
This is everything I Use.
I bought these hoping they would do the trick. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00009OYGV/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421534510&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=41PADNxaDfL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40
http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-89-Piece-Deluxe-Gunsmithing-Screwdriver/dp/B001C63M7O
I've got my notes on recommended tools & first-aid kit here. Proper tools for swapping nozzles are important to avoid inadvertent damage (although it's not a scary process).
Which sock & which nozzles? The TriangleLab nozzles are good. The others are OK in a pinch, but I've seen reports of them shearing off at high temps.
Read up on clearing jams. The 1st one can be scary, but they're no big deal if you're prepared.
Have fun with it!
Skip the ruby nozzle, it's only necessary if you are printing a lot of abrasive filaments like wood, magnetic, carbon fiber, etc. Get it when (if) you need it. The stock nozzle will print PLA and PETG for ages before requiring replacement.
Same goes for the smaller nozzle, again, unless you are planning on using it right away. Smaller nozzles are great for finer details, but will typically greatly reduce your print speed, especially on really low layer heights like 0.05mm. They also really require you to have your settings, extruder and Z-height dialed in, something you're not going to be ready for right away if you're new to 3D printing.
As for tools, what comes in the box will get you by (assuming you purchased a kit, not assembled). A pair of fine-tipped tweezers is also useful. Side-cutting pliers. Also, highly recommend a proper set of ball-end hex screwdrivers instead of those God-awful hex keys.
You will hate those - they will not last. Before I bought my MIP stuff I had these: https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-26390-Screwdriver-Metric-Precision/dp/B0006OBFCC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487462002&sr=8-1&keywords=hex+driver+set+metric
They were pretty great but a bit tiring on the hands if you are working on a lot of stuff. MIP is the best you will get but they are costly.
Wheeler Engineering 89-Piece Deluxe Gunsmithing Screwdriver Set with Durable Construction and Storage Case for Gunsmithing and Maintenance https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001C63M7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0pOVCbPFA4BTT
You want drivers that fit the screw. Improper fit will mess up the screw slot or lead to slippage. Hollow Ground is usually best or a Parallel grind, not a chisel point.
These Wheeler Kits are generally pretty good for what they are.
If you hate money you can look at Starrett, Wera, Wiha, PB Swiss..
This is well known in many forums and circles for older Jap bikes. There are many JIS driver sets are available on amazon, along with other impact driver JIS sets. While Philips bits are not reccomended on JIS screws, a Philips impact driver usually has no problem removing these screws.
Exactly right but I think it’s too late for this screw. The left-handed drill bit idea is the best choice IMO.
Neiko 01925A Screw Extractor and Left Hand Drill Bit Set, 10 Piece | Alloy Extractors | Cobalt HSS Drill Bits | https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F9ANQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_48c-BbVJE5B8K
Hozan JIS-4 JIS Screwdriver Set (NEW 3rd. Gen) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_09c-BbD50WFW8
They're cheap
Gorruck 34L GR2 Coyote Tan - a good bag, heavy, uncomfortable, probably give it to my grandchildren in like 50 years
Flip Flops - generic things
Bigblue 28W solar charger - very good, can charge my battery up during the day if i leave it in the sun which I've never really done honestly
Jakemy hardware tools - seamed useful? i've never needed this
Army glove shells - i thought i used these a lot and were indistructable but now that i think of it, i don't use them that often and are probably pretty cheaply made.
Sharpie, pen, all weather notebook - probably should switch over to a fisher space pen...
Straws - these are probably already broken.
Whistle - really really really loud
Fire-striker, matches, lighter - i'm not sure i have enough ways to start a fire
Fresnel lens - ok, now i have enough
LED flashlight - i used to go running in the middle of the night with this flashlight, its tiny
LED flashlight - this isn't the one i have but looks kinda similar? i don't remember where i got mine
Earbuds - generic cheap earbuds
Leatherman Surge - given to me by my wife for passing the bar. thanks wife!
First Aide kit - i put mine together from stuff i've stolen from friends houses whenever i go over and use the bathroom
playing cards - these look very similar to the ones i have, they are plastic so they won't get rained on
glasses/ sunglasses - i have really bad vision
personal hygiene kit - aahhhh dry shaving
Sawyer Mini / syringe, collapsible canteen (dirty), heavy duty straw - i've never used this
collapsible canteen (clean) - i've never used this either
sewing kit - i've used this a lot
ID tags - i guess if i get blown up they'll know my blood type?
garbage bag - for when my pockets are full
elastic bands - i use these when packing to keep rolled socks and things from falling apart
Salt - i have nooooo idea why i have this
cooking grate - i'm not going to hold meat over a fire with a stick like some sort of caveman
heavy duty ziplock bag - in case my mapcase breaks and other reasons
rip-patch - leftover from when i needed a pack because i bought a crummy cheap inflatable sleeping pad.
Army Fleece Beanie - i always keep this at the top of my pack
4 Bungie Cords - not the one i use but similar. to make a field-expedient shelter
Trowel - for disposal of biological wastes
Lensatic compass - because GPS should only be a backup
Pocketboy 130 folding saw - i have a bigger one for yardwork, this small one is really great
Tent stakes - for tent staking
Ravpower 26800 Battery - use this all the time can fast chage my stuff
Battery Battery holder, cables, wall charger - all fits togehter like glove!
Army Poncho - wear it, make a tent out of it etc
Microfiber towel - not the one i use but similar. i mainly use this for when the kids accidentally fall in a lake like they tend to do for some reason
Down Jacket - cheap chinese knockoff... i feel bad for not buying american
Wet weather top - not sure this is worth the space/weight
Wet Weather bottom - not sure if this is worth the weight/space
Silkweights - PJs! and warmth
Jungle Blanket - this is a lot better than the army's woobie. lighter and warmer
Gransfors Bruks Wildlife Hatchet - again, gift from wife. she wanted me to chop things and be more manly, generally. now i come home with parts of wildlife for her to cook
Map of New England - or, how i stopped worrying and love dismounted land navigation
PT belt - keeps me safe in all situations
Compression straps - i don't like lashing things to the outside but i guess i can if i wanted to
Fork and Spoon - stole these from the kitchen. i'll probably be replacing this soon with something titanium.
​
EDIT: i just priced it out: $1,585.08 total
I think it's wiser to learn how to properly setup a guitar on your own. It's not as difficult as many people think and only requires a few amount of tools. Here's what I use:
That's basically it. You don't really need anything else unless you are getting into advanced guitar repair stuff like fretwork or wiring and the like (in which case I would advise you do take it to a pro unless you know what you're doing).
Total cost = $39.93 That's cheaper than any professional guitar setup I know of.
From there you just have learn how to do simple things like neck adjustments, intonation, string height, and pickup height. You can find out how to do all of this stuff with a simple search on youtube.
The advantages of doing it yourself are plentiful. You can find out exactly what relief you like in the neck and exactly what type of action you like on your strings. Professional setups just setup the guitars the way they think they should be setup which isn't always the way you would want to do it.
Also, my guitars go out of whack with the seasons as the neck can fluctuate with the temperature and other things. Rather than pay another x amount of dollars to get it setup again, you can just set it back to the way you original set it up.
TL;DR Learn to setup a guitar yourself. It's better.
EDIT: You need a tuner too. For some reason I just think every guitar player has one of these already.
Greetings all!
My main suggestion to anyone wanting to get into vaping it is to skip the ego-starter kits, MVP2 (cheapish Vv or Vw boxes), non-rebuildable tanks (Protanks, Nautilus) and just drive right into the mechanical mod / box mod world. I say this because the vaping experience is so much better with rebuildables. I went with the all of the above, and I personally wished that someone would’ve told me to just dive right in, because all that stuff is sitting around not being used. The people that I’ve talked to are typically hesitant to do so because of the coil building, but there are so many YouTube tutorials, suggestions and information on /r/RBA and /r/electronic_cigarette that it’s much easier than it seems. Anyway, if I were to start all over again, these are the things which I’d buy.
Must Haves
These are the things which I consider essential to starting off the on the right foot. I’ve purchased a lot of things, and these are the things which I suggest to my friends. Most of the links are from Amazon, because it’s what I’ve primarily used.
Battery - Sony VTC5
http://www.eciggity.com/2-pc-sony-18650vtc5-2600mah-30a-battery/
These are pretty much the standard when it comes to “safe” batteries. They’re affordable, good amp limit and have been recommended many times. If you purchase from the link above, they also give you a plastic carrying case!
Charger - Nitecore i2 or Nitecore i4
http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-IntelliCharger-i4-Battery-Charger/dp/B005UAI372/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404287334&sr=8-1&keywords=nitecore
Affordable, reliable and these won’t “overcharge” your batteries. The difference between the i2 and i4 is the amount of batteries they can charge at a single time. They also have a new fancier one out, called the Digicharger D2 and Digicharger D4. Those are nice because it has a LCD panel that displays a lot more information than the i2 and i4. I personally use an just an i2.
Mechanical Mod - Stingray
http://www.vaperoyalty.com/hcigar-stingray-mod-stainless-steel/
Now, 90% of what is suggested for an actual mechanical mod is going to be of personal taste. The Stingray is the “older brother” of the Nemesis. This is what I purchased when I first started out vaping. The unit is very easy to break apart, clean, has a locking ring, has a floating 510 connection and venting holes in case of a battery leak. Almost everyone I know has a Stingray.
Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - Magma by Infinite
http://101vape.com/rebuildable-atomizers-tanks/309-magma-atomizer-clone-by-infinite.html
One of the best purchases I’ve made. The juice wells are very deep compared to everything else on the market (that doesn’t have a tank system). Threads are nice, easy to build on, post holes are large and the air-flow is easy to manipulate. You can run this on a single coil or a dual coil. Blows almost all the other RDAs I have out of the water. This is my main RDA.
Organic Cotton - Maxim Hygiene Products Organic Cotton Balls
http://www.amazon.com/Organic-Cotton-Balls-Triple-count/dp/B00E8T2X36/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1404288337&sr=8-3&keywords=organic+cotton
I suggest using un-bleached, organic cotton. Some people take it one step further by washing them, I think thats taking it a bit far and I don’t do it. You can pick them up from any convenience store or supermarket (CVS, Walgreens, Target, Whole Foods), a 100 count will last you AGES.
Kanthal - AWG A1 26 Gauge
http://www.amazon.com/Kanthal-Gauge-100ft-0-40386-Resistance/dp/B00HALND7Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404288659&sr=8-1&keywords=kanthal+26
I like to use 26g kanthal wire for my dual coil builds. 26g is a bit thicker than what a lot of people suggest (28g), but for me, because it’s thicker, it’s easier to work with.
Screwdrivers - Stanley 6 Piece Screwdriver set
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009OYGV/ref=oh_details_o05_s01_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The screwdrivers which come with your RDAs are short, small and crappy. I like these screw drivers because they come in a variety of sizes and you do not need to mess with a drill-bit. What I really like about these, is at the end of the drill bit is a small little ledge (can’t think of a better word), where you can push your coil and scrunch it up a bit.
Ohm meter / Multimeter - Any generic ohm reader or Innova 3300
http://101vape.com/meters/170-ohms-meter.html
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O1X65A/ref=oh_details_o02_s01_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can use a multimeter to do basically the same thing as an ohm reader. The multimeter has an added benefit of being able to read the volts are your battery as well. I have both, but I prefer to use a “regular” ohm reader. This video below can teach you how to use a multimeter for that purpose.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wgXAmPBAO5g&index=2&list=LLU7AM2JUxXCrj4TSCDQDffw
Optional items
Things that I’ve purchased that you can probably substitute with something in your house. They’re nice to have, most people have these, but I decided to link these anyway, because I didn’t have some stuff (my scissors were too large).
Scissors - Generic surgical scissors
http://www.amazon.com/Amercian-Diagnostic-Corporation-3425-Stainless/dp/B000GHIUR2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1404289491&sr=8-5&keywords=surgical+scissors
To cut your cotton. Small, sharp and gets the job done.
Tweezers - Ceramic tweezers
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10007588/1655800-heat-resistant-stainless-steel-tweezers-for-e
Allows you to hold your coil together and torch them without heating up the tweezers.
Wire cutters - Hakko CHP-170
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For cutting your kanthal off that spool!
Atomizer holder - Plano 23630-01
http://www.amazon.com/Plano-23630-01-Stowaway-Adjustable-Dividers/dp/B000E3FKVC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1404289861&sr=8-4&keywords=plano
You’re gonna buy a bunch of atomizers. Everyone buys a bunch. You’re not going to be able to help yourself. I use this plastic case to keep everything neat and separated.
Building deck - Tenderfoot Stands
https://www.facebook.com/tenderfoot.stands?fref=ts
You don’t need this. But it makes building RDAs easier. You can also place your juice filled RDAs on here.
Torch - Mini Jet Flame 503
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007A9YSPW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This will help you get those coils nice and tight, without having to fire off your mechanical mod.
Battery Case - Bluecell
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q6PJO8/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you don’t buy the batteries from the link above, you’re gonna want a battery case. Do not keep your batteries loose in your pocket or floating around your bag. They can come in contact with something metal and potentially damage the battery.
Here is the desktop version of your link
A good set of small screwdrivers, some sort of wire cutters, cotton, and a good pair of tweezers (preferably with ceramic tips)
I got these ones and they are great. They have from 1 - 3mm drill bits and then two Phillips ones for screwing your posts down.
Nice rubberised grips that help you keep tight hold. I'm ashamed to say I saw them on a rip video.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00009OYGV
Wiha 26390 Screwdriver Set, Hex Metric With Precision Handle, .7 - 3.0mm, 7 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006OBFCC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_J8MrxbDDWYHG5
This is a very good hex driver set that I use. Has all the size I need for vaping purpose. Might be a little pricy compared to other sets but a good tool goes a long way. No more stripped hex key or grub screws.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006OBFCC/ref=oh_aui_i_d_old_o1_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This and a set of quality wire cutters are the two best purchases I made this year. Should have done it the first time I rounded out an Allen screw. Every one of the Allen keys I got for free with an atomizer seems to be undersized and rounds out the screw.
They don't?
Get an extractor kit, something like this or this.
I recently did a bunch of research on tools, and came up with a few good options:
I have these:
https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-89-Piece-Deluxe-Gunsmithing-Screwdriver/dp/B001C63M7O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1525651391&sr=8-4&keywords=wheeler+gunsmith+tools
and
https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Hammer-Punch-Plastic-Case/dp/B004SY07HU/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1525651391&sr=8-5&keywords=wheeler+gunsmith+tools
When it comes to getting screw bits (if you're piecing together a set) it's important to make sure you get hollow grind bits as not to damage the screw heads.
Amazon baby
I like a lot of Tekton tools, particularly their "Everybit" set. Great value, and it has a lot of security style bits you would need for disassembling electronics.
http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2841-Electronic-Screwdriver-135-Piece/dp/B008HYVG6I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425168318&sr=8-1&keywords=tekton+every+bit
Other than the everybit set from Tekton, here is a list of tools I would recommend for general use...
I could continue this list forever so I'll just stop here. I have specific brand recommendations for almost all the tools on my list, but I wanted to keep it generic so that you could do your own unbiased research.
In addition, if you really just want to get your hands dirty, you can accomplish a lot with a good quality multi tool. I recommend the Leatherman Wave. The leatherman will set you back $60-$70 but I think they're more than worth the investment. If you buy a multitool, you could probably almost cut my list in half.
I REALLY wish they didn't even mention pliers. It's the wrong tool for the job. They might as well have told people to use a sawzall and just be really careful..
A full set of tools that covers every possible fastner is $30. There is no excuse to not have the right tool for working on a $700 piece of fragile hardware.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008HYVG6I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ODV0PI
They're expensive, but they WORK.
I'll second Wera. I have a similar set in a nice little roll,
https://www.amazon.com/Wera-Kraftform-Micro-Set-12-5073675001/dp/B009ODV0PI/ref=pd_sim_263_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B009ODV0PI&pd_rd_r=6YHP7JC4ST8CQX0TRK4R&pd_rd_w=3ytyn&pd_rd_wg=3Vvlr&psc=1&refRID=6YHP7JC4ST8CQX0TRK4R
and I have used them extensively with no damage to the heads. Highly recommended.
You'll want some JIS screwdrivers. There's lot of "phillips" screws on those bikes, but if you try and use your trusty old phillips driver on them, you'll strip them out in a heartbeat.
https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU
I carry a nanch precision screwdriver set in my backpack at all times. Other people around me always go to me first whenever they need a screwdriver or some tools to borrow. Its a good feeling
https://smile.amazon.com/Nanch-Precision-Screwdriver-Smartphone-Electronics/dp/B00QZLV03O/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2NK1WCEVGKTZW&keywords=nanch+small+precision+screwdriver+set&qid=1566115135&s=gateway&sprefix=nanch%2Caps%2C148&sr=8-3
Edit: added URL
Nanch Small Precision Screwdriver Set with 22 Magnetic Screwdriver Bits,Repair Tool Kit for Laptop,Smartphone,iPhone,Jewelry and other Small Electronics. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QZLV03O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RTsIDbWN8V2ZF shortly after finishing I went on Amazon and bought this set. Way better than those red screwdrivers!
Here's the set. It looks nice, might be time for an upgrade myself!
If anyone's looking for a nice screwdriver sets that includes a tri-wing, I highly recommend this product: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QZLV03O
Not sure what the difference is, but this one has a 15% instant coupon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019ZSK57K/ref=dp_cerb_1
I'm going through the same journey right now. Here are a few of the things I picked up. The first 3 are the actual soldering equipment/materials you will need. The fourth is a good electronic screwdriver set and tweezers (not required but useful).
https://smile.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1520432768&sr=8-4&keywords=Weller
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B072WN1DMG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0777LMVTT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B019ZSK57K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
How big are the screws? I'm at work so can't look at my controller. Maybe something like this would work?
Flitz Metal Polish for the bore; Break Free CLP for the inside of the gun; and FrogLube paste as an exterior protectant.
On my Glocks I usually use one of THESE. (I throw the slotted tip and the jag away, and use only the brush with cotton patches (occasionally) wrapped around it.)
NOTHING CLEANS A PISTOL BARREL, ABOVE 22 CALIBER, FASTER OR BETTER - NOTHING!
I, also, keep a carbon steel, 'Squirrel Daddy' Miniature Glock Tool in the handle along with a thin-bladed, narrow profile screwdriver.
I carry; so I clean my Glock BEFORE I leave the range and won't holster a dirty pistol that hasn't also been function checked. I've been working on guns for 50 + years; and I use them hard. At one time, or another I've seen it all. These guys who like to brag and post crap about (almost) never cleaning their Glocks are just plain IGF idiots; and I'm sure that Smyrna would tell them so, too.
Neither is there any good or necessary reason, whatsoever, to leave the Loctite C5-A Anti-Seize Compound (the, 'gold-colored grease') inside your Glock after you've purchased it and brought it home. The C5-A is there to: (1) Protect a Glock from corrosion between the dissimilar metals of the slide and connector tab during PROLONGED distributor storage, and (2) guarantee that a new, possibly uncleaned, and unlubricated Glock pistol will go, 'Bang!' the first time it is used.
Once the Glock pistol is put into service and receives regular maintenance you no longer need the grease - Period.
I had a really similar sequence of events happen on one of my earlier MacBooks (fan was noisy --> then ran at strangely low speeds, yet high CPU temps --> fan failure). In pretty short order (2-3 days) the fan stopped working entirely (fan speed dropped to 0, CPU temp went sky-high).
Note: I made the assumption that you have a 13" MBP, which may more may not be correct. Obviously the fan can probably be found for a lot cheaper somewhere else, but if you're at all nervous about compatibility/ordering the wrong part, ifixit.com has some pretty great guides and descent replacement parts. PM me if you have any questions (I've done a lot of MacBook/MacBook Pro micro repairs on my machines over the past 7 years)
This.
It looks like people have mostly got you started here in terms of supplies. In terms of tools though, this is what I keep in my rebuilding stuff (linking to Amazon just because its easier):
Other generic stuff:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00002X29G/ref=sr_ph_2?qid=1449878663&sr=sr-2&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=stanley+screwdriver+set
You can watch like 6 videos and know how to build a computer. Once you know what fits where, it's like putting together legos. These screwdrivers make everything way easier too.
You'll want some precision wire cutters, not sure if thats included with the pliers you listed.
Once you get tired of dealing with the piece of shit coil jig you can pick up some precision screw drivers like
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV/
or even the all metal ones that have more options for smaller coils
This and my hands make a pretty solid wrapping kit
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Title | Vaping Coil Winding Jig Tool
Description | Fasttech Vaping Coil Winding Jig Tool for Rebuildable Atomizers https://www.fasttech.com/p/1926001 stainless steel / 1.5mm + 2.0mm + 2.5mm + 3.0mm + 3.5mm sections SKU 1926001
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Title | UD Coil Jig V3 - Demonstration
Description | UD Coil Jig V3 http://www.vapetime.co.uk This is a quick demonstration of the Coil Jig V3 by Youde Technology. For more information please visit: http://www.vapetime.co.uk/ud-coil-jig-v3/ If you have any questions please do not hesitate to call, contact us or leave a comment. We are always happy to help :)
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Title | Quick and Effective coil build for RDA atomizers
Description | ::EDIT:: It's a good idea to check your resistance ( ohms ) BEFORE you attempt to glow and fiddle with your coils. The resistance will change as your coils get more even. So check before, then check again after. Thanks. Hey everyone! If i'm being 100% honest. I mostly shot this video for my brother who recently got into the world of rebuilding. He was really struggling with it. Rebuilding has become such second nature to me that I often forget how it feels to be building for the first time and that sense of frustration that sets in quickly. So hopefully some other people will find this video helpful. Rebuilding honestly just takes practice and patience. ANYONE can do a solid simple build that will produce both great flavor and large clouds ( if you want ) The build in this video came out to 0.3ohms, which will work great on a mech mod, or on a higher wattage regulated device like the Sigelei 150w or iStick 50w I used 24g Kanthal, 6 wraps around a 2.5mm screwdriver. Below I have links to most everything I used in this video. Including some "beginner friendly" RDA atomizers. Precision screw drivers http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435336275&sr=8-1&keywords=precision+screwdriver+set&pebp=1435336344707&perid=1M11EBNKQ3Z63A7B0VQ8 Wire Clippers http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435336368&sr=8-1&keywords=Wire+Clippers 24g Kanthal http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Lightning-Vapes-Kanthal-Resistance/dp/B00JWYIHLY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435336391&sr=8-1&keywords=Kanthal&pebp=1435336399204&perid=0Q2SHF5N87Q64YJT5F9E Organic Japanese Cotton http://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Organic-Cotton-Organic-unbleached-Largest/dp/B00P219C5Q Unfortunately the VapeKit has been discontinued. They are doing a V2 kit, but in the meantime check this one out http://www.coil-master.net/product/diy-kit Some good RDA's for new builders IMO Mutation X V4 http://www.vapordna.com/Project-Sub-Ohm-Designed-Mutation-X-V4-RDA-p/psmxv4.htm The Mako http://www.beyondvape.com/store/import-cat-c-1_2/beyond-vape-mako-rda-p-1927.html The IMP http://www.empiremods.com/product_p/youdimp.htm Thanks so much for watching everyone! hope this is helpful. Feel free to follow me on Instagram http://instagram.com/grimmgreen/ Twitter https://twitter.com/GrimmGreen Facebook https://www.facebook.com/GrimmGreen Also please remember that unless you make it so I can reply to you. I will be un-able to reply to your comments.
Length | 0:22:32
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Here is the screen you need ($53). Here is a precision screwdriver set you can use ($4). Here is video showing you how to fix it.
Do it yourself, and save $100 or so.
Youtube I guess. Here's some info about rebuilding in general, feel free to skip what you already know. Make sure you get an ohm reader first thing. You can buy wire and an ohm reader at lightningvapes.com with coupon code LV20 for 20% off. I think most people recommend 26g wire. I went with 24 and it's awesome for subohming, if you're planning to build higher, 28g would be the best. I'm not sure how well 30g will work out but the link below will let you know!
Also check out this website: http://steam-engine.org/coil.asp
On there you input your gauge wire, single/dual/etc coil, your target resistance and what the diameter of your coil is (you'll know this by which drill bit you wrap your wire around. It'll tell you how many wraps to do to get the resistance you want. After you build you'll want to throw the atty on the ohm reader to check for shorts (it won't show a regular reading if it's shorting) and also to check if you're near what your target resistance was. Don't be worried if it's not exact, the 510 ohm reader boxes aren't known for accuracy. If you're within 0.05 ohms you're good. Also some people like to build on their ohm reader, it's nice.
As far as other tools for rebuilding. I would recommend this screwdriver set: http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1420044741&sr=1-2&keywords=stanley+6+piece+precision+screwdriver+set
It's great, I use it everytime I touch my mod for maintenance. Not sure what other people use but since I got that I never looked for anything else! The bits are awesome for wrapping coils around and the phillips will fit your post screws for sure.
That's about all you need really. Other than wire cutters and pliers/tweezers. You can get these awesome ceramic tipped tweezers from that first site. The ceramic won't get hot so you can squeeze your coils tighter with them while the coils are hot.
As far as preventing shorts, well I've never had a short so I can only tell you what I do. Don't let your coils' excess legs be hanging out and flying around all willy-nilly. Cut them nice and close and if you can't get close enough, bend them upward. That's about it as far as I know.
Let me know if you have any questions, sorry I couldn't teach you to build!
28g is good to start with. You'll also need something to wrap your coils on. These screwdrivers are a popular choice. You can also use the little blue screwdriver that will come with your magma. SteamEngine is your friend for coil wrapping.
Pro tip: throw out the pre-made wick and coils that come with your RDA, because they're crap. Keep the extra screws, O - rings and screwdriver, just in case.
Size 0 Phillips, 1.4mm slotted. Here is the kit on Amazon; http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV/
They're usually called "precision screwdrivers." Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00009OYGV?pc_redir=1411139902&robot_redir=1
there's the link to the one I have
I'll chime in... had my kit for about 2 weeks now and will share my experience:
Tools
If you don't have some of these, I HIGHLY recommend them.
Assembly isn't too hard, and the directions are pretty good. My main complaint with the directions is that sometimes they don't explain what's important and not important all the time. I spent a lot of time building, taking apart, and rebuilding the base y-axis frame because I thought I did something wrong (it wobbled) to find out that you fix that wobble as one of the last steps.
The 100mm distance that you're required to thread double nuts early in the assembly is absolutely critical by the end of the build for many different reasons. It would be nice if prusa included some kind of printed spacer to make that step foolproof.
Again, assembly is straightforward. I took a span of 3 days to finish mine while dedicating a few hours each night to do it.
Upgrades
A couple of things can be improved on the printer. The printer isn't terribly noisy, but you can make it damn near silent with a few upgrades.
Bondhus https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O4ADI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_FI6FAbEXJCK2D
Bondhus makes a set that's basically identical to these snap-on ones.
https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-10687-Balldriver-Screwdrivers-ProGuard/dp/B0006O4ADI
Here are some links. Most of these are things that if someone had, they wouldn't mind having doubles or whatever. Most of them I own or have used and liked. Many of them can be found at big box stores but all of these should contain brand and picture..
Like, the utility knife is a particular one that is really nice, both brand and style. Super handy for cutting thick insulation.
http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWHT10045-Single-Blade-Snap-Off/dp/B0051QIA3C
Can't go wrong with knipex cutters. Anything knipex is pretty good. Without knowing more details on what they are into, this is a decent all rounder.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000X4MPAQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1418895942&sr=8-2&dpPl=1&dpID=31TAs95wNXL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40
Things always need oiling. Hinges and ball bearings and stuff.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KKHNU0
(Plus)
http://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Kroil-Penetrating-Lube-Aerosol/dp/B00EINDJSU/
One screwdriver that serves many functions in one small, cheap package:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_170991-86580-SF14_4294857608__?productId=1221941
A tape measure that has the decimal / fractional written on it. I can read a normal one, but I find work with my Lufkin more accurate and less transposed bits.
http://www.amazon.com/Lufkin-QRL625MP-Vertical-1-Inch-25-Feet/dp/B004R1JPEA/
Ball end metric allen wrenches with screwdriver handles. They make many sets ( standard, etc)
http://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-10687-Balldriver-Screwdrivers-ProGuard/dp/B0006O4ADI
These clamps are decent and cheap for both woodworking and metalworking. Irwin is a nice namebrand but it's a lot more money for just a clamp.
http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/clamps/11-inch-swivel-pad-lock-grip-pliers-39535.html
Metalworking with flat stock.. you often have some holes that need to be drilled from a template to a thing. These center in the hole and transfer the marks. (Using the clamp helps too)
http://www.harborfreight.com/28-piece-transfer-punch-set-3577.html
Good quality headlamp with a red mode. I like the red mode for outdoorsy things. Non red mode lamp people are jerks when they turn and talk at you and blow your night vision.
http://www.rei.com/product/866955/petzl-tactikka-plus-headlamp
These are great Bondhus 10687 Set of 7 Balldriver... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O4ADI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
1.5mm is the other common size. Personally I recommend these instead.
Wiha 26390 Screwdriver Set, Hex Metric With Precision Handle, .7 - 3.0mm, 7 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006OBFCC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_edFuxbS7ZQM4A
You'll need to use something like this. http://screwremover.com/Pages/grabitMicro.php You may want to measure the screw to see if these are small enough.
EDIT: Amazon has another company if you search for "grabit micro" The additional photos showed a person who had to remove stripped screws from an Apple notebook/cellphone. http://www.amazon.com/Moody-Tools-58-0670-Extractor-Reversible/dp/B000JCT3W0/ref=sr_1_6
Moody Tools 58-0670, or in silver.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ontel-Speed-Out-Speed-Out-Screw-Extractor-4-Piece-1000264/205110987
https://www.amazon.ca/58-0670-6-Piece-Extractor-Reversible-Driver/dp/B000JCT3W0
Lots of choices for normal sized screw extractors. For the really small ones, give this set a try. (available from other vendors incl brick'n'mortar places).
I almost stripped the screws on mine as well while trying to unscrew with a cheap screwdriver. I ended up getting this: Moody Tools 58-0670 6-Piece Slot/Phil/Screw Extractor Combo Reversible Driver Set. I managed to get them out with just the driver, but I am sure the extractors will come in handy at some point.
I'd give this one a shot. https://www.amazon.com/Moody-Tools-58-0670-Extractor-Reversible/dp/B000JCT3W0/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=MOODY+screw+extractor&qid=1555039644&s=gateway&sr=8-4
​
That's how I removed the motherboard of my MBP. I stripped the heads of at least 6 motherboard screws, pretty much ground them to a cone with my regular phillips drivers. These ones took a bit of patience and finger skills, but got everything out.
Wiha 26199 screwdriver set is amazing. It's not very much money and I use it all the time.
Amazon link
https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-26199-Slotted-Phillips-Screwdriver/dp/B000NZ5QG0
We buy the techs these:
https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-26199-Slotted-Phillips-Screwdriver/dp/B000NZ5QG0/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1480694593&sr=8-12&keywords=wiha+screwdriver
In a couple set variations - also one of these
https://www.amazon.com/Megapro-151NAS-Original-Driver-Yellow/dp/B004VJY0ZM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480694651&sr=8-1&keywords=megapro+screwdriver
Also a USB 3.0 portable drive, usb drive adapters, and some thumb drives
Everything else they fill their own bag with from the office supply. Ethernet cables, CAT6 ends, velcro, etc
We have a Brady Labeler and various other tools they can take as needed for site work as well.
I've used the ifixit kits and have been really underwhelmed personally.
For (bigger) diagonal cutters/pliers, I think the most BIFL are NWS with their "Titan finish". Knipex is a fairly close second, but I like the finish on NWS better. Both can handle hard and medium hard wire (including nails and screws) without a problem, unlike most Klein, Snap-On, etc. The biggest issue is finding NWS in the US. The NWS Fantastico Plus are the best diagonal cutters I've ever laid my hands on.
For precision cutters/pliers, Xuron. They're semi-flush (Xuron call them flush, but I'd still call them semi-flush) micro sheer cutters are great but thankfully don't seem to nick up easily like (Xcelite, Snap-On, etc.) flush cutters do. I like the ones with that are ESD safe, with extra long handles, and the lead retainer best if you're going to be populating a lot of circuit boards. Otherwise, their cheaper models are just as nice.
Wiha precision screwdrivers. I've given this set as a gift before. Wera for the bigger stuff if you need it. Wiha or Wera bits (only larger sizes, I've never found precision bits I've particularly liked).
Klein to fill in gaps.
Bondhus hex keys.
Find a nice used Fluke multimeter on eBay. 89IV go for under $200 and have pretty much identical features to the 189 (believe the 189 mostly just has a bigger inductance/capacitance range). Most universities will have someone tasked with calibration/maintaining the measurement equipment. Make friends and he'll probably calibrate it for you/teach you how/just let you jump in and try. Mine was falling out of the box after UPS drop kicked it to my door, but the calibration was still super boring as nothing needed adjustment.
Hakko or Weller soldering station. Easy to find tips, especially for Weller. WESD51 dropped to $99 on Amazon a couple times in the last year, great time to scoop one up for little more than the analog version. The Stahl Tools one Amazon sells is also good for dirt cheap, but not really BIFL; good luck on finding tips. Metcal is too rich for my blood, but if you ever happen across one that is cheap.
Kester "44" solder, accept no substitute. 63/37 or 60/40, but since the spool will last you half a lifetime, I'd probably go with the 63/37.
I have a love/hate relationship with wire strippers. Something like this usually gets the job done, but sometimes you'll get wire with a strange jacket size and they'll fail. For the automatic kind, this style works ok (especially if you adjust it to what you're stripping), but I usually like this style better; again, as long as the jacket isn't too small and you wire is in the right range. Sadly, I probably most often grab for cheapies like this. The adjustment screw is great if you have to do a lot of a certain size, but I tend to free hand them. It takes quite a bit of practice, but once you get the hang of it, it's the fastest. Thermal wire strippers are just too pricey for the home user, especially if you want to do PVC, teflon, etc. jacketed wire.
I also have a love/hate relationship with crimpers. I have some crimpers I got for Anderson Powerpole connectors from West Mountain Radio (largely because I couldn't believe how cheap they are-- connector-specific crimpers are usually many times the price they charge) and they were great for the Powerpoles. I even bought some of the other die sets, but I've been less happy with those. I often end up using a similar pair to these or the die on a pair of Klein lineman's pliers for the larger crimps.
If you don't have a set of good screw drivers grab this set here: http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-89-Piece-Deluxe-Gunsmithing-Screwdriver/dp/B001C63M7O
After trying the Home Depot Husky brand, I bit the bullet and bought a Wiha set. The difference is huge.
https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-36291-Screwdriver-Torx-Piece/dp/B002C582AQ
About $25 depending on price fluctuation.
http://www.amazon.com/Wiha-36291-Screwdriver-Torx-Piece/dp/B002C582AQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417819439&sr=8-1&keywords=wiha+36291
Just above your price range. Really nice though.
Get these. They're made by Wiha, arguably the best manufacturer of Torx drivers, and it includes a T6, T7, T8, T9, T10, & T15. That set should cover you for just about every knife out there, though I think some manufactures use T12 screws some times, so be wary of that.
Not sure of the size you need, but here is a set of triangle hand drivers on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Silverhill-Tools-ATKTR4-Screwdriver-Replacement/dp/B004IUEHYS
something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Triangle-Screwdriver-Electronic-McDonalds-Disassemble/dp/B07H3S81D4
​
if so, try googling first, and to really get help, you need to add a picture.
​
EDIT: here's another one....
https://www.amazon.com/Silverhill-Tools-ATKTR4-Screwdriver-Replacement/dp/B004IUEHYS
Found this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004IUEHYS/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687582&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B001F3FUBK&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1R80WTBY18X5ABCZH8JT
not sure if any of em will fit though.
A little late I'm sure, but I highly recommend this set -
https://www.amazon.com/Eclipse-SD-081G-Tri-Wing-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B0089NNRL4/
They're almost as nice as my Wera screwdrivers and kinda match too.
Compared to the freebies I've gotten and the multi-bit kit I have these are so much better:
Eclipse Tools SD-081G Pro's Kit Tri-Wing Precision Screwdriver Set with 4 Pieces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0089NNRL4/
This is the set I purchased. Works great to get into the joycons, then you just need a small phillips to get the inside screws out.
This TEKTON kits is a bit cheaper and has better case. Lifetime warranty but doesn't include the pry tools, those are super cheap though.
This is what I picked up some years back. That "mini-kit" you see in the middle is what I use to open up my cell phone (T3 screws). The large driver is ratcheting and can store bits in the handle. Haven't stripped any of the bits after 3 years of light to moderate use.
Prying tools, a nice screwdriver, small spatulas a grounding bracelet and a nice case. $50? Fuck no.
this is just ok. For $60 you can get your self your last toolkit. This is the center piece the last screw driver set you will ever buy: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008HYVG6I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
pry tools aren't common but they diabolically cheap: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xpry+tools&_nkw=pry+tools&_sacat=0
grounding bracelets are $5 bucks across the board, and you can get a nice bag for all your tools.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BFNJES/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A37XNGS4WH2DDR
If you are barely starting gearing up throw in, a wire stripper, a soldering iron with 21G solder, flux, a pump and solder remover.
Some time down the road, throw in an internet cable crimper some internet cable connectors and have the power of fixing any cable at any lan party.
Throw in a magnetic nut and bolt tray, spare 21g wire and your set for life.
If you want you can add, a small axe, flashlight, a pack of batteries, quarter bottle of vodka, and a magnesium rod. It will bring the cost to like $150 2014 dollars but this set will make you the most popular kid in the fallout and will guarantee unlimited bottle caps.
These Tekton are OK, the sd-5 fits.
You'll need to buy some "precision" screwdrivers. A set of small phillips head screwdrivers should get you started. These will serve you well, but you may need a #1 phillips head too: http://smile.amazon.com/TEKTON-2977-Phillips-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B008TM1910/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_y
Use a guitar pick to separate the case halves. Go to a local music shop and pick up some medium and heavy picks.
You can buy replacement jacks for much less than a replacement motherboard. The ones I bought were something like $6 on eBay. You'll still have the problem of it breaking in the future.
So given the choice between these two:
Wera Kraftform Micro-Set, 12 Pieces
Wiha Micro Bit Set, 39 Bits
and the roughly equivalent price, I should still go with the individual drivers for BIFL.
I can't speak for Wiha, but I use a ratcheting multi-bit holder Wera screwdriver that has been used at my job for over 3 years, 40 hours a week. I use the screwdriver HEAVILY, I mean nearly constantly over the span of each 8 hour work day. Only last week did the ratcheting mechanism start giving out. I'm going to be buying another.
HOWEVER. Since you're specifically asking for a micro-bit set, I have coworkers that use wiha for that and they seem to do the job fine. Don't know if Wera has similar stuff, I assume they do, but from what I've heard about them and seen first hand both will serve you fine, so go with whatever is cheaper. If it's ratcheting consider that a bonus, saves a lot of wear and tear on the old wrist.
EDIT:Yes Wera does carry a micro "set", it's individual drivers in a case. $41. And yes, Individual drivers are always stronger than a multi-bit single driver if you're going for true BIFL factor here.
https://www.amazon.com/Wera-05073675001-Screwdriver-Electronic-Applications/dp/B009ODV0PI
I can highly recommend this set of Wera precision screwdrivers.
Wera
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ODV0PI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AppcBbC9EMEYJ
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BSKR35U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8qpcBbVBY7VE3
Uh, 62$ cad is what I paid for this set and that seems pretty cheap for the quality of the tools?
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009ODV0PI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For a hobbyist that doesn't go ape on them should last a lifetime?
I highly highly highly suggest a JIS cross point no. 2. The philips head no 2 can easily damage the screws used from the factory.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A7WAHTU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518651012&sr=8-1&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rps=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=jis&dpPl=1&dpID=413vva2sI3L&ref=plSrch
The PA unit is under the filter board. No soldering needed to remove it. Just a lot of screws and multi pin connections. I suggest a camera to keep track.
I also suggest a high quality thermal paste like the following:
https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-Ceramique-Compound-CMQ2-2-7G/dp/B0087X73AM
Or
https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-ORACO-MX40001-BL-Compound-Performance-Interface/dp/B0045JCFLY
You can do it yourself. The rebuild part itself is very easy, requiring the right parts, basic tools, ability to follow directions, and patience. The hardest part is going to be removing and reinstalling the carbs in the bike.
Here's what you need:
After rebuilding, you may or may not need new carb insulator boots. Your old ones will likely either be hard as rocks or will have cracks that leak air.
I own the same bike as you and have rebuilt the carbs without previous carb experience. If you have questions, PM me and I'll help how I can.
Also, while your replacements won't have the same heads likely, shimano "phillips" screws are actually JIS, in the event you weren't aware.
http://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU
Something like that will help prevent them from stripping.
Do you have recommendations on where to buy? Found these, but they have mixed reviews:
https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Your screws are not Philips screws they a Japanese industrial standard or JIS. They look the same but the angles are different and will strip if a Philips is used. Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU
I use this set
I have these, I'm not sure why they're listed at $20 bucks now since I bought them for $8 last year. I got these because I have a universal screwdriver handle that I thought they would fit into. Of course, they don't so I have to grab the end with pliers sometimes when I'm getting a screw in or out. They're high-quality and work fine. If I was buying again today, I'd probably take a chance on these. They're cheap and have an integrated handle.
Save your money and keep the original, take it out, clean it up well and use a pin or needle to bend the pins back so they are all uniform. The 72 pin that came with the NES is higher quality than the replacements are. While your in there disable the 10NES lockout chip and almost every game will work the first time. There are several tutorials on how to do both of these on youtube or google. Additionally your going to want to clean up your dirty games before putting them in a clean 72 pin connector. Some buy a cheap bit that will eventually be lost but for about the same price can buy [this set from amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BEZY2I6/ref=oh_details_o09_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and work on most oldschool consoles / games. :)
I used to do the pen thing but it only works like half the time. I just bit the bullet and bought these . They are not to expensive and nice to have around if you ever want to open any sega / nintendo stuff
For anyone that’s interested buy this one
I actually own both of these sets and I almost never use that cheap plastic driver anymore. Plus the one I linked the driver itself extends and it has longer bits so having both bit sets is still useful if you already have the other set. The driver in the one I linked is worth the price alone.
Oh good, I've never known pcpartpicker to get compatibility wrong. Plus, from what I can see your build looks great. I did want to note that a GTX 1080 will only be different from a cheaper graphics card if you have a monitor that can utilise its power, i.e. one that is 1440p and 144hz (or more). If you're using a monitor with a lower resolution or refresh rate, say a 1080p/60hz monitor that's the most common, I'd consider a cheaper graphics card (like a GTX 1060 6GB), because there will be noticeable difference in performance. Just wanted to make sure you knew that. : ) I see a lot of people overspend just to have a GTX 1080 even though there will be no difference at all in what they can see on their screen.
Getting to the question you actually asked: So people like to say that you can build the entire computer with just a #2 Phillips screwdriver (that's the "regular" size). This is basically true. I'd recommend spending $10-15 on an extra long scewdriver (10 to 12 inches). The length really helps when working deep in the case. I bought one after my second build, and since then the builds have been SO much better. I have one like this one and it's great. Especially since it's magnetic.
Another extremely useful item is a magnetic scew/bolt tray, like this one will save you a LOT of time and trouble.
The one and only screw on most builds that doesn't take a standard screwdriver is the tiny screw that holds m.2 SSDs into place. I didn't see if you have an m.2 SSD or a 2.5" one. Either way, a small precision screwdriver set can be very useful. I own this one which is extremely high quality, but there are much cheaper versions out there. They come in quite useful around the house too.
So long story short, you can basically get away with just a cheap standard screwdriver, but a couple of extra tools can make your life a lot easier.
I really dig this set. The handle is solid and extends. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QZLV03O/
Oh man. Yeah if I dropped just a single capacitor I wouldn't even bother looking for it. Luckily they're cheap.
Definitely get a good screw driver. You won't regret it. This is the set I have and it has saved me from a bunch of annoying situations. Probably not the best kit you can get but it's comfortable to use and has a good variety of driver tips.
(not a product recommendation but just a note for people coming afterwards, if you can get this on sale, probably elsewhere than Amazon, it might be worth it)
I got this Xiaomi Wiha set and it's been disassembling multiple laptops fine :)
So, if you're on a tight budget I would suggest trying the Nikon manual focus lenses. I had the 50, 35, and the 105. They are good lenses but I had my issues with them. They focus backwards, to go to infinity you rotate the focus ring the opposite way of nearly every other lens. They also have a distinct bokeh, it's not bad, just not my taste. They are cheap and really easy to come by.
To declick lenses you should only need a good set of precision set of screwdrivers. I have these
You can look up declicking specific lenses on Google.
I also purchased [this](Neewer Professional Flat & pointhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5F6O92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kPn1xbT6E3FVK) so I could take off the front element of the lens if it needed cleaning. Totally not necessary for cine modding but fun to take apart lenses.
You can buy focus gears from all kinds of places online. There are plenty of choices and prices. I buy mine from followfocus gears.com they aren't cheap, but they are seamless, and are 3D printed for specific lenses. They fit perfectly.
For the adapters, I've had some good luck with fotodiox in the past. They are relatively cheap. Sometimes they don't fit as snuggly as they should and that is a problem. With my 105mm when I would touch the lens to focus the lens would physically move side to side and the image would shift. Not good for video. For my contax set I purchase Leitax adapters that actually screw on the the existing mount so they can't shift at all.
For you I suggest you getting a cheap 50mm and try it out. You don't need to buy the gears or declick right away. Just get a lens and an adapter and see how you like it. Stay away from Canon FD lenses as you need an adapter with a glass element in it to focus to infinity. It's not worth the hassle and hard to find a good quality adapter with out breaking the bank.
I didnt get it from this exact set, but its identical to the ones that i used. I did it on the one all the way to the left. They are calling it the "Phillips #1"
I don't know if this ships to DK but the jeweler's screwdriver set will be something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-039-Jewelers-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00002X29G
Rubber screws dampen noise from vibrating fans and are awesome.
Get two Philips head screwdrivers, one #1 and one #2 sized. The #1 will be smaller. Flathead size doesn't matter as much, 1/8"-1/4" (3.175mm to 6.35mm) head width should do. Jeweler's kit will cover the rest.
Also look into some magnetic screw trays they are cheap and very useful for keeping things organized.
Well good for you, keep it up.
Building isn't hard. Just make sure you have the right tools or it'll be frustrating. You should try it. Get these wire cutters: https://www.fasttech.com/product/1243300-plato-170-flush-cutter-for-rebuildable-atomizers and a small set of screwdrivers like this: https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-039-Jewelers-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00002X29G Wire like this: https://www.amazon.com/UD-Youde-wire-Kanthal-Clapton/dp/B01JH0JJL4 Cotton like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I2GXGAU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Watch this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vbk-WVjd9dE&app=desktop
You can get as advanced as you want with it but doing a simple build takes minutes and IMO, is the best way to go.
Also want to point out I didn't purchase all my stuff from those links, but those are the products you need. Those sites I linked should be legitimate, but you could always shop around for a better price or slight variations if you want.
Have a great night!
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-039-Jewelers-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00002X29G
You could find these at a hardware store. Or a hobby store even.
like mentioned you can get a coil jig, or some people use little screw driver hits, usually 2.5 or 3.0mm. You can get a kit for less then $10 in many places. Similar to this http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-039-Jewelers-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00002X29G
Cant help with the crown, sorry.
offset screwdriver? or maybe a mini screwdriver. http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-039-Jewelers-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00002X29G
Something like this is nice to have. http://www.amazon.com/Repair-Opening-Screwdriver-iPhone-Samsung/dp/B00GYO7OT6/
To be honest, I just used a little flat head screw driver. Just be gentle.
I have a kit kind of like this one. http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-039-Jewelers-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00002X29G Think I picked up a generic one from the dollar store/walmart.
Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00002X29G/ref=pd_aw_sims_5?pi=SL500_SS115&simLd=1#
I wrap on the smallest one.
/u/buster_boo because of sheer awesomeness. Screwdrivers, because everyone needs to screw now and then
Well, you need to find somewhere that sells cheap tools, perhaps a second hand tools place or a garage sale :)
Edit: here are the things you need, these are way way overkill for the job though and will run you about $55 if you get free shipping.
http://www.amazon.com/Decker-DR260C-5-2-Amp-Driver-8-Inch/dp/B00T2VJ93C/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1463019428&sr=1-1&keywords=drill&refinements=p_36%3A1253528011
http://www.amazon.com/Coolshare-Awesome-Craftsman-61-Pc-Accessory/dp/B0140PDXW2/ref=sr_1_11?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1463019496&sr=1-11&keywords=twist+drill+bits
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-SF100-Wood-Finder/dp/B00020JOFA/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1463019602&sr=8-16&keywords=stud+detector
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-60-100-10-Piece-Standard-Screwdriver/dp/B0000950PN/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1463019662&sr=8-6&keywords=philips+screwdriver
Corollas are great cars! I thought about getting one as my second car.
Yeah, you do need tools for most things. If you are able, you can assemble a small tool kit for under $100, and that will allow you to do a lot of stuff. Changing your own oil is a very good place to start, and most cars only need a single socket to do it.
If you want to get into car maintenance without tools, you can clean your car out, check and top off the fluids accordingly, or go to a gas station that has an air pump to pump up your tires.
Here is a good beginning to a tool kit:
Screwdrivers
Sockets
Pliers
Wrenches
Do NOT buy this. It comes with 5 drills/drivers/impacts. Here is what you need:
http://www.amazon.com/Makita-LCT314W-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-3-Piece/dp/B005C95E2I/ref=sr_1_11?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007466&sr=1-11&keywords=12v+drill+driver+combo+kit
http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-C10FCE2-15-Amp-10-inch-Compound/dp/B000V5Z6RG/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007519&sr=1-2&keywords=compound+miter+saw
http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PC75TRS-7-5-Amp-Reciprocating/dp/B004V327PS/ref=sr_1_9?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007539&sr=1-9&keywords=sawzall
http://www.amazon.com/WEN-61720-4-Inch-2-Inch-18-Gauge/dp/B000EJW1ZY/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007628&sr=1-1&keywords=brad+nailer
http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PCFP02003-3-5-Gallon-Pancake-Compressor/dp/B00BMUGQNC/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007761&sr=1-1&keywords=air+compressor
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-60-100-10-Piece-Standard-Screwdriver/dp/B0000950PN/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007815&sr=1-4&keywords=screwdriver+set
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-51-624-20-Ounce-Fiberglass-Hammer/dp/B000VSSG2K/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007879&sr=1-3&keywords=hammer+set
http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW1177-20-Piece-Black-Oxide-Metal/dp/B001EYU5N8/ref=sr_1_9?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007985&sr=1-9&keywords=drill+bits
http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW1177-20-Piece-Black-Oxide-Metal/dp/B001EYU5N8/ref=sr_1_9?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007985&sr=1-9&keywords=drill+bits
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-33-425-Powerlock-25-Foot-Measuring/dp/B00002X2GQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457008034&sr=1-1&keywords=tapemeasure
They were these. The nickel plating comes off as soon as you use it and the flat heads break under any real torque. Again, my harbor freight screwdrivers took more abuse.
between the one that you just posted and this one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000950PN/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
which one is better..and will BOTH sets take out not only the large screw but also the four screws that hold the hard drive together? Not sure the difference between both sets and why one is 18 bucks and the other is 8 but whichever one works better I will get it
Check out some of these videos:
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=build+your+first+coil
I order my wire on Amazon, and its like $8 for 100ft of your choice in gauges, $12 or so for a bag of Japanese Organic Cotton, maybe another $15-$20 for wire cutters/tweezers, and $18 for a Coil Master jig if you want to use them. Oh, and don't forget anything your atty might need like a Phillips screwdriver (though even though they're crappy, pretty much every atty comes with a tool for it). All in all you're probably looking at around $40 up front, but you'll have about a years supply of cotton at least, and even rebuilding a lot to test things enough wire to last a couple months or so.
Here's some of the stuff you'll want to look for (don't have to use these ones specifically of course):
https://www.amazon.com/100ft-Kanthal-Resistance-Gauge-Lengths/dp/B00MW4O0WG/
https://www.amazon.com/Koh-Gen-Do-Organic-Cotton/dp/B00NU3H3KE/
https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B017ODDPNO
https://www.amazon.com/Authentic-InnoVaper-Precision-Ceramic-Tweezers/dp/B00TI6M3WK
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV
The only tools that I had available when I built my PC was a six-piece Stanley set. Luckily for me, building a PC doesn't require much more than a screwdriver. As such, the most useful and only tool for me when building my PC was a precision screwdriver.
Due to the fact that my PC is still very new, I have not yet experienced any need to maintain anything.
Thanks for the suggestion, but I was already looking at this.
I just ordered some temco 28 gauge kanthal from amazon. I've been using this to wrap with. I dont have any drill bits at the moment.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009OYGV/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_5wjYtb0V52W8FXG7
So, $35 for that one, or you can get this for 1/10th the price.
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV
Because the handles are plastic you can even heat up a pin and set it into the handle to hold your wire better while you wrap.
My apologies, It was 9 wraps and it turns out that my screwdriver is in fact a 0pt. (Assumed it was 3/32.)
Trying to figure out what the actual diameter is but I'm having a bit of trouble.
It's out of this set of Stanley screwdrivers if it helps.
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV
Do you wrap them around something? And torching the kanthal will help if you find it to be particularly springy. Here is a coil wrapping calculator that will tell you how many wraps you need to reach your desired resistance based on your kanthal gauge and the size of whatever you are wrapping around.
I would suggest investing in a set of screwdrivers like these to wrap on. They are super cheap and wrapping with them is super easy.
I used a 2mm screwdriver. I have a set like this one.
The necessities are:
I'd recommend 26, 28, and 0.8x0.1 ribbon to start. That gives you a lot of options for building. You'll notice the first two links are add-on items on Amazon, so you'll have to buy $25 worth of wire, wire cutters, tweezers, or just add it to some other amazon order you're making.
I know I'm not adding much in the way of telling you what to use (mostly because I feel like the other replies have done a stellar job at doing just that), but when you do go to look for a set of screwdrivers to build with, this is what most people use:
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV
to piggy back: The Stanley Precision Screwdriver Set for wrapping the coils. amazon has them and target sells them as well if you don't want to order them.
Or maybe the stanley screwdriver set?
Something like this?
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00009OYGV/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1491577769&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=precision+screwdriver+set&dpPl=1&dpID=41josrE03YL&ref=plSrch
Yeah I was going to go with the EK Vardar fans, I'm looking to keeps temps as low as possible mostly, but less sound would be nice as well. Would the EK Vardar 1450rpm pair well with a EK PE rad?
If you don't mind waiting fast tech is great heres a great rda and good mod for $15
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10012340/2088800-tugboat-styled-18650-mechanical-mod-w-rda-atomizer
Also grab an ohm reader there as well for $5
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10010372/1897900-atomizer-resistance-tester-ohm-meter
Here's some kanthal I suggest 26 gauge 25 feet Is about $4
http://lightning-vapes.theshoppad.com/#/product/kanthal-a1-resistance-wire
Also pick up a battery for about $8 or two for $14 (worth having a backup battery) use the coupon "lv15" for 15% off
http://lightning-vapes.theshoppad.com/#/product/samsung-inr-18650-25r-battery
I'd suggest this charger for $12
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0096U26QQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421740585&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=41E7nbJ5btL&ref=plSrch
And these screwdrivers if your local dollar store doesn't have it for $4
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/ol/B00009OYGV/ref=mw_dp_olp?ie=UTF8&condition=all
Roughly under $50 for a good setup in my opinion
26ga kanthal
Cotton
Screwdriver set
Ohm reader
Velocity clone by tobecco
Pliers
That's about $60 bucks after shipping, and gets you pretty much everything you need.
You can opt for higher quality things. There's some great coil jig sets out there for about $15, which basically make coils for you. Theres higher quality cotton, better kanthal but this is a good basic setup. It's what I use, at least.
You'll see a lot of people vouching for the velocity clone, its a great RDA with a lot of room to build on.
As far as what mod you want? That's tough. That's a whole other conversation. I can tell you what I use, and what I like about them, though.
I use a Sigelli 150 TC, it's a dual 18650 box mod with temp control, I have two Samsung 25r's that have been "married" since I got them, and live in my mod. My Velocity usually sits on top of it. I use this set up at home, and try new builds on it.
My on the go set up is a Smok xcube mini box mod single 18650, with a royal hunter mini on top. I make sure to build around .3 to .4 on this set up, and stay in a safe range for the single battery. Using an online ohms law calculator, I'm vaping a .38 build at 40 watts. Which is drawing 10a from my battery that's rated for 20a.
These are my go to's. I've used some of the Dynamite tools but have been let down everytime. They seem to strip out if you look at them wrong.
Bondhus Hex Drivers: Metric & Imperial
[Hobbico Wire Cutter/Strippers] (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHVR9&P=FR&gclid=Cj0KEQiAqemzBRDh2vGKmMnqoegBEiQAqJPuyOyjP9p9BZBrlzU_EWEcAqQWw2SLmEXwzQfVVEKWkq4aAt828P8HAQ)
[Hobbico Secure Grip Pliers] (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJSP3&P=0)
[ProTek Body Reamer] (http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-trucks/protek-rc-trutorque-body-reamer-ptk-8203/p212259)
For those rare phillips screws: [Craftsman Screwdriver Kit] (http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-41-pc-screwdriver-set/p-00931798000P?sid=IDxCMDFx20140801x001&KPID=00931798000)
These are awesome:
https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-10687-Balldriver-Screwdrivers-ProGuard/dp/B0006O4ADI/ref=lp_2586173011_1_5?srs=2586173011&ie=UTF8&qid=1519931637&sr=8-5
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O4ADI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Then print this.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2670661
2.5mm and 3mm metric set screws will cover 99% of the RDAs on the market.
https://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_set_screws_Allen_Cup_point_Stainless_steel_18-8_(A-2).aspx
Get a decent set of hex drivers and many screw issues will be solved.
https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-26390-Screwdriver-Metric-Precision/dp/B0006OBFCC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510850739&sr=8-3&keywords=wiha+precision+screwdriver+set+hex
I recommend getting a precision hex driver set. I find I use the 1.3mm and 1.5mm most frequently.
https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-26390-Screwdriver-Metric-Precision/dp/B0006OBFCC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1467594132&sr=8-2&keywords=precision+hex+driver+set
these are what i use. the difference from what you've been using is something everyone should experience. the right tool for the job is something that is extremely underrated.
Its .9mm
​
Pick this tool set up: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006OBFCC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Buy good quality ones.
RC is pretty much all hex, because it's the best. Anything not hex is considered garbage.
Cheapo allen keys round hex heads. Get something out made of hard steel and you'll never strip a hex head...
This is $6 and great: https://amzn.com/B00C0PUOOK
The storage aspect of the handle is junky, but the bits are perfect and the handle is functional.
Or you can get a set of Wiha: https://amzn.com/B0006OBFCC
Or just buy individual Wilha but really it adds up and often cheaper to just by set.
aw man.. yeah it's really tough to extract stripped screws.. don't give up just yet though, there are extraction kits out there, even for tiny screws like this or this
I've used these in the past with great success. You can hammer and glue them in as well.
https://www.amazon.com/Moody-Tools-58-0670-Extractor-Reversible/dp/B000JCT3W0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492731155&sr=8-1&keywords=precision+screw+extractor
you could try a screw extractor. I am not familiar with the spyderco deleca 4 knife, but based on googling reviews it seems like it would withstand a fair amount of pressure.
Try something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/58-0670-6-Piece-Extractor-Reversible-Driver/dp/B000JCT3W0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1342137683&sr=8-2&keywords=screw+extractor+set
If you're going for the cheap hex key + JB weld route check out your local hardware store.
Cheapish screw extractor set to try: https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Precision-Screw-Extractor-Set/IF145-118-1 or https://www.amazon.com/Moody-Tools-58-0670-Extractor-Reversible/dp/B000JCT3W0; reviews are mixed on these though.
For power tools, there are a couple of different options:
For future situations you could keep a set of 'left handed' drill bits, these bits cut by spinning counterclockwise, giving the screw a chance to come loose. But really you should have a screw extractor, ones this small are hard to come by (#0 or #00) but they do exist:
http://www.amazon.com/Moody-Tools-58-0670-Extractor-Reversible/dp/B000JCT3W0/
Here is a hand set that way you don't have to buy a drill.
Ok depends on they type of Barrel. If it is is a standard german barrel with screws protruding I would recommend this tool:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0052XQYVO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
It is very good at grabbing the sides of exposed screws.
If the screw is flush with the service you might have luck with these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JCT3W0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
you have to be able to put a lot of pressure on the screw head so make sure it is resting level on the desk.
Hey, just wanted to add an update to this in case anyone else runs into the same problem I have. I was almost to the point where I was going to take a drill to the chromebook! :O
Luckily I found Moody Tools Precision Screw Extractor on Amazon.
They worked like a charm and the stripped screws were out in just a few minutes!
For future reference, part sizes are listed in the hardware guide, which can be found in the question thread, but the size screws you need are here. The hardware guide links tow 3/16 but lists 1/8 (which is the correct size) so use the 1/8 I linked.
As far as tools, Sneakerhead is correct, pivots are t8 and body screws are t6. You may need 2 t6's (one to hold the other side while screwing in). You can also get a set. I've linked Wiha drivers which will last you, but you can go with whatever brand you prefer
Step 1: Buy a multimeter. I prefer the Fluke 87v http://amzn.com/B0002YFD1K Sure it's $387, but it'll pay for itself eventually.
Step 2: You'll need to take apart the charger. A good set of screwdrivers would definitely help. http://amzn.com/B000NZ5QG0 It's only $40. Wiha maybe isn't the best, but I like them and they do offer a 100% satisfaction guarantee.
Step 3: Once you open it up, you can start testing it with the multimeter. Inevitably, however, you'll probably have to solder something. Hakko is a popular brand for good reason. This one is under $100 AND it comes with wire cutters: http://amzn.com/B00AWUFVY8
Step 4: After you put it back together and find out that it's still not working, buy a replacement charger.
Have one of those sets in our shop.
We also have 2 of these sets linked below as well. I have been very pleased with them. If you ever need more in the future, which you will.
Wheeler 89-Piece Deluxe Gunsmithing Screwdriver Set, Black/Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001C63M7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CgGXBbQQ0FYA4
I don't have a specific set to recommend, but one thing to keep in mind is 90+% of gun screws are flatheads, and that can be an under represented form in generic screwdriver kits.
Like I said before, it's very important that the blade fit tightly in the screw.
Take a look at THIS set (zoom in on the picture). It is an expensive set, but notice that it has a LOT of flatheads and almost no hex or phillips bits...that's the main difference in a "gunsmith" set and a generic screwdriver set.
My buddy has this set its kinda pricy but its worth it, i use his all the time to work on my 500
Regular bits are angled. Gunsmithing bits are square. If you use regular bits your screw heads will certainly show damage. You most certainly need proper fitting hollow ground bits to do the job right.
Field stripping an M1 Garand does not require any tools. But what you're attempting to do does.
My buddy asked me for my recommendation last year and I told him this: it's more important you have the correct sized bits vs high quality bits. If you can afford both, great! But most of us have a budget so go with a set with a large variety of sizes. Remember, both the width and depth are equally important. A bit that is too wide will open the ends of a head like an opposing set of parentheses. A bit that is too narrow round out the top like opposing lower-case r's.
He ended up buying:
Wheeler 89-Piece Deluxe Gunsmithing Screwdriver Set, Black/Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001C63M7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uwzdBbY5REFM0
And of course, you need to steady the rifle so be sure to have a cleaning rest. Mine is cheap but it works great:
Tipton Gun Butler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036FFQAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NyzdBbR86YV6Z
a good screwdriver set intended to fit firearms fasteners saves loads of damage to fasteners
https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-89-Piece-Deluxe-Gunsmithing-Screwdriver/dp/B001C63M7O/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1527255716&sr=8-5&keywords=gunsmithing+tools
Here you go
What torx head do AB sexbolt screws take? I know pivots are t10, but what is the latch and sexbolt screw head? ty
edit: can people recommend me some nicer drivers? Or will wiha be fine? like would this set be fine?: https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-36291-Screwdriver-Torx-Piece/dp/B002C582AQ/ref=pd_cart_crc_cko_sbs_2_1/143-1871600-7110822?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002C582AQ&pd_rd_r=47089c6f-5524-4aba-918b-d14decf66cf8&pd_rd_w=iIUwc&pd_rd_wg=J9IVc&pf_rd_p=735fc45d-5ed9-406a-92e0-8d28b9f18fe0&pf_rd_r=TSZ024WGPXYBF19WS1XA&refRID=TSZ024WGPXYBF19WS1XA&th=1
That looks like them. I bought this set specifically: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002C582AQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here is my mini-review of the light. I got the light from Amazon for ~19$ with free shipping. The light comes with a AA battery and lanyard. I ditched the lanyard. The light also comes with an attached pocket clip (more on this later).
This light is as bright as my 3xAAA Costco TechLite Lumen Master and much smaller. To access the modes you click the light once to turn it on, then tap the cap to cycle through the Hi-Low-Strobe modes. You can also do this by quickly turning the light on and off.
Originally I got this light for one purpose.. to use it in the Fenix Headband system ala Nutnfancy. I thought I would save some money by not having to spend 40$ on the Quark Mini AA. I was wrong. The first problem was the pocket clip. It was getting in the way of the headband's flashlight holder. The clip is screwed in by triangle screws. To get the clip off I had to buy the triangle screwdriver from Amazon. Then afterwards I found out even with the pocket clip off this flashlight is too thick for the Fenix Headband (if you take the pocket clip off there are 2 holes where the screws fit that expose the innards because the flashlight as a whole did not fit the Fenix Headband I have the clip back on I might look in to some small "O" ring for more water resistance). Even though it will not be useable for what I originally intended. I still like the light enough to use it as my EDC light.
TLDR: This light will not work in a Fenix Headband, otherwise great EDC.
Here is the non-mobile link from the comment above
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Screwdrivers
You could also just buy stndard hex grub screws and replace the triangles.
Another option is to pick up these - :D
http://www.amazon.com/Silverhill-Tools-ATKTR4-Triangle-Screwdriver/dp/B004IUEHYS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417441458&sr=8-1&keywords=triangle+bit
HERE
Please use the search function. Found this in 2 min. Not 4$ btw :D
Perhaps one of these might work.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004IUEHYS?qid=1417550431&sr=8-1&vs=1
Someone in one of the reviews said it works for the mxv2
Just so you guys know, this (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004IUEHYS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) does NOT work. Someone suggested it in a thread for me; even the smallest screwdriver is too big.
You're right about the Kidney Puncher kit, but I'm not sure if OP knows. The Kidney Puncher kit comes with those screws as HEX screws, NOT the triangle screws, so it's much easier to find better tools to use on it. The triangle screws are the Mutation X v2's Achilles Heel, and I look forward to finally buying the Kidney Puncher kit.
https://www.amazon.com/Eclipse-SD-081G-Tri-Wing-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B0089NNRL4/ref=pd_bxgy_469_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0089NNRL4&pd_rd_r=T1X9P9RM8H2X0QNRJAR7&pd_rd_w=K7q0c&pd_rd_wg=PwC1V&psc=1&refRID=T1X9P9RM8H2X0QNRJAR7
Those will take care of all the tri-wings for $11 on Prime. You could do cheaper if you have a screw driver that fits smaller bits.
There is a few Phillips that aren't quite as small inside, so pick up a J1 (J0 would also work) Phillips if you don't have any smaller ones lying around.
http://www.amazon.com/Piece-Tri-wing-Precision-Screwdriver-Set/dp/B0089NNRL4
I have these and they are great, but overkill of you just need them once.
I just ordered this screwdriver tool:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0089NNRL4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> Only problems I had is my tri tip screwdrivers heads got worn out pretty fast. It was super cheap wish it were more durable. This made it a pain to remove and put the screws back repeatedly.
To anyone wanting to do this mod, you really need something like this. The 000 size tri-wing screwdriver is an absolute must to not strip the heads of the tri-wing screws. One of those makes it so much easier to take apart and put back together.
Good alternative to this is Tekton 135 piece set
Only downside in this set is that every bit is not magnetized and among this set, there're no triangle bits. Tekton put it in their other set, which you don't even need just for a triangle bit.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I noticed a glaring omission from your coffers.
Lineman's pliers, I'd recommend these Channellock's, or if you have a few dollars more their Code Blue line. They also have models with fishtape pullers if you need them.
Other things you could probably use are a good pair of wire nips. You won't find a better value than these Hakkos, A non-marring hammer/deadblow hammer is quite handy to have around. A pair of needlenose pliers. A variety of precision screwdrivers or an encompassing bit set, I like this Tekton Everybit set (confession, mine was a gift from Tekton rather recently but it is still an honest opinion)..
And where are your safety glasses, hmm?
BTW That is a nice selection of tools, this isn't really criticism, just trying to think of things you might find useful that you don't already have...
The hobbyking hexes work well enough on their own. I personally just have this kit, it seems to work for pretty much everything: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2841-Electronic-Screwdriver-135-Piece/dp/B008HYVG6I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1397017140&sr=8-3&keywords=tekton
For a soldering iron, I'd get a Hakko 888 if you have enough money, or a hakko 936 clone if you do not.
All anti-vibration form is not the same. Some is better than others, but there are a lot of variables to take into account.
As for the oscilloscope, I'd say its pretty darn low on the list. A good scope is expensive (~>$300). They are quite easy to learn how to use, and can be quite useful, but I generally wouldn't purchase one if all you wanted to do is build a quadcopter or two.
If you want a bit type, id recommend starting with this 23 Pc Husky ratcheting precision set which covers every computer/laptop need I've run into. Or this TEKTON Everybit set.
For individual type I recommend the TEKTON Brand. Here is a set that has the PH0-PH2 like you need and some other flat heads. Torx Here, Nut Drivers Here. Though you can filter the nut drivers into SAE/Metric or buy by individual need.
If you really need/want magnetic tips, sub that screwdriver set i sent with something like this Cause magnetic tips are handy. Another brand I highly recommend is Milwaukee for both insulated and non-insulated drivers
http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2841-Everybit-Ratchet-Screwdriver/dp/B008HYVG6I/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1458624425&sr=8-6&keywords=security+bit+set
ive had this one for a while. its decent. the ratchet driver that comes with it is meh.
This Tekton set is my favorite and it's not too expensive and should cover at least all of your driver bit needs.
Buy quality.
http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2841-Electronic-Screwdriver-135-Piece/dp/B008HYVG6I/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1451918236&sr=8-6&keywords=screwdriver+kit
+
http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-DS18DSAL-Lithium-Ion-Batteries-Flashlight/dp/B001N2NTEI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1451918269&sr=8-4&keywords=drill+driver+hitachi
If you buy a new screwdriver set, I recommend this one (American link, since I'm Canadian). It has everything that I've needed so far, plus more.
I have liked this Tekton 27 piece set for a while. I mostly like it because it comes with both size pentalobe bits, if you're doing any apple repair stuff. It comes as part of their 135 piece set too, which I think is a good deal. Reach isn't very long is the only real downside.
I bought this a few weeks ago and I have already found it extremely useful: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008HYVG6I/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It has most (if not all) of the bits in yours plus a whole bunch of super tiny bits for things like glasses. Within the first week I found a use for a star bit (my laptop) and a square bit (removing an old ceiling light fixture that used square screw heads for some reason. You could tell that whoever installed it tried to use a slotted screwdriver because the screw heads were totally fucked up).
Just be careful with the smaller bits because it is really easy to put a fuckload of torque on them with a great big grippy handle. The bits themselves are fine, but you might fuck up the threads in whatever you are screwing (experience talking, ruined one of the screws on my laptop by tightening it too much).
The downside is that it is more expensive. It has a lifetime warranty, though, so if you ever break a bit, they will send you a new one no questions asked (just read the manufacturer replies in the comments to see this).
Here's the one I was referencing. Ratings are actually good.
"don't go talking too loud you'll cause a landslide, Mr. Jones"
I think 2 people should be gifted. You can still share the love without sharing it to much. :)
I don't like fiddling with (and losing) driver bits. If you need a single one to carry around you can get one with bits, but if you're using them at a bench, a regular set I think would be better.
http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2977-Phillips-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B008TM1910
A set of precision screwdrivers and hex head drivers that are made to use one handed and turn with your fingers, like these (that might be a referral link, I'm lazy and on my phone, sorry) I bought a good set for less than $10, readjusting your grip to turn a screw is annoying. More useful for small electronics, for computers I just use my dewalt cordless, emi be damned.
It wasn't too hard at all.
I used this screwdriver set and this pack of trackpoints.
With help from this guide here it went very smoothly.
The 3DS does still close but I had to cut the trackpoint down to size a little.
Multitools are universally crap I found.
I use one each of these which is as close as I'll get to multitools:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B009ODV0PI/
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000X1R2K2/
Both come with pouches and loops so you can transport them or stick 'em on your batbelt if you fancy it.
German "Wera Kraftfortm" tools only
https://www.amazon.com/Wera-Kraftform-Micro-Set-12-5073675001/dp/B009ODV0PI/ref=pd_sim_469_58?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B009ODV0PI&pd_rd_r=6FPSJM18T1DH9XRB69R8&pd_rd_w=TU3HU&pd_rd_wg=Fkh24&psc=1&refRID=6FPSJM18T1DH9XRB69R8
and
https://www.amazon.com/Wera-05051024001-Kraftform-Bitholding-Screwdriver/dp/B001HSNHM2/ref=sr_1_3?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1493822380&sr=1-3&keywords=wera+tools
Can't recommend these enough
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kraftform-Micro-Set-Screwdriver-electronic-applications/dp/B009ODV0PI
If you are doing any controls work, pick up Wera screw drivers they are the best screw drivers for terminal blocks, very good steel, have never had a tip break or striped a screw.
Only a month late getting back to you on this...
The three case with three handles are all torque screwdrivers
Links to everything here:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009ODV0OE/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01BSKR35U/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009ODV0PI/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00E8HM9N2/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001555G80/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01H88FP24/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That looks pretty nice, but I was wondering about the specific Japanese set AvE talked about for a dollar. I've already got the Wera precision set for electronics.
Just a heads up if you didn't know these sets were cheap: http://www.amazon.com/Sourcingbay-SCB-8913-Precision-Screwdriver-Tools/dp/B00A740VQM/ref=sr_1_18?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1465112673&sr=1-18&keywords=precision+screwdriver
You may use it a handful of times a year but for less than $10 it's worth it.
I bought this set of screwdrivers for about $10 it has every mobile and electronic device screwdriver you could ever need. One of the better purchases I've made.
http://www.amazon.com/Sourcingbay-SCB-8913-Precision-Screwdriver-Tools/dp/B00A740VQM/ref=sr_1_17?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1462463286&sr=1-17&keywords=screw+driver+set
grab a precision screwdriver set, it has allen key heads, as well as flat/philips head and more stuff I've never even seen. Much easier to use then allen keys, or tiny blue screwdrivers.
I hav been using this one for about 1.5 years: Precision Screwdriver
That's a shame. Not too hard to fix, but the way it's assembled doesn't look like it makes it easy either.
Grab a precision screwdriver set that has some torx, hex, etc. Should be able to find one relatively cheap, and it's going to come in handy a lot.
Ex: http://www.amazon.com/Sourcingbay-Precision-Screwdriver-Tools-Mobile/dp/B00A740VQM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1414192904
A kit like this is really helpful for these sorts of things. You never know when you'll need it. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A740VQM/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1394817948&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A740VQM?keywords=screwdriver%20set&qid=1453152555&ref_=sr_1_12&s=power-hand-tools&sr=1-12
This should have everything you need and more, I repair phones and use this set
It's an old Jap bike. So you are going to actually need a JIS screwdriver to get it apart without doing damage to anything. Most hardware stores won't know what the f you are talking about. Might need to overnight one from amazon if you are serious about getting into it. This is the set you will need, you will also need a very small and high quality flathead.
https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472699179&sr=8-1&keywords=jis+screwdriver
Here's the carb.
http://imgur.com/mD1mTzT
https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU
You'll want a small (#0 or #00) JIS crosspoint driver like these. If you're careful, you can use a small phillips, but do so at your own risk.
Oh man, I had no clue the screws were different. Good heads up!
More stuff to research :)
Quick Amazon search turned up this set:
JIS-4 JIS Screwdriver Set (New 3rd. Gen) (Japan Import)
And sounds like a bearing kit is easiest to put in now, will definitely add this upgrade to the list.
Available on Amazon too...
https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549415220&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=jis
Just get a full set; your future self will thank you (can't find the exact one, but it was similar to this one on amazon)
These.
I got these ones from amazon.ca/.com
http://www.amazon.com/Silverhill-Tools-ATKNND-Security-Screwdriver/dp/B00BEZY2I6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1398202464&sr=8-2&keywords=Nintendo+security+tool
work like a beaut
Its a bit of a stretch... but Heres my optics beacause EVERYONE should have one...
And Here is a mechanical of sorts. Its atoy to me, because I want to take apart old games and systems and turn them into other things... like lunchboxes and external hard drives. <3 So yeah, its a toy.
Thanks for the contest!!!
Recommend using This site to help you make your determination if you are paying the correct amount for a game, instead of looking on ebay. also I recommend you get One of these If you wanna keep going for the higher end stuff. Before you shell out the cash you may want to ask to open the cart up and see the board, then compare it to images online. shelling out $200 for Mega Man X3 or Castlevania Dracula X only to realize it is a reproduction would feel really shitty.
You got some solid titles. Do you have many retro stores in your area?
There's a user on Planet VB called RunnerPack. He does the permanent solder fix for displays and does a excellent job from my experience, and for fairly cheap too, $10/display unit if I remember correctly. Just hit him up a message over there and you'll be golden (or red, I should say :P).
Just so you know, you are going to have to open up the Virtual Boy yourself, so you'll need a screwdriver for the security bits (the 4.5mm ones in particular). You can find them on amazon for fairly cheap.
Edit: extra junk.
UN3. I also have the 4.5mm Game Tool. Opened up the console to check. Amazon Link
Dude I went for these http://www.amazon.com/Silverhill-Tools-ATKNND-Security-Screwdriver/dp/B00BEZY2I6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1380913239&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=nintendo+bit
Under ten bucks and they work perfectly and are very solid!
thank you! :D
http://www.amazon.com/Silverhill-Nintendo-Security-Screwdriver-Gamecube-SNES/dp/B00BEZY2I6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=2K2AJBJYXTUMV&amp;coliid=I1PC7QGP4WVNDC
If you're looking for a high quality triwing I really like this one from Moody Tools:
affiliate link - non-affiliate link
They also make really nice JIS (Japanese Standard like Phillips) drivers which I find are immensely better than standard Phillips drivers.
For gamebits / Nintendo security bits, I have this set and I really like it. They are made out of a reasonable quality stainless steel.
affiiate link -
non-affiliate link
Full disclosure: If you click on the affiliate link and buy the product I will get a small commission from Amazon to help pay for my childrens' education ;) I personally own the products I linked to.
Sounds like you're going to want to order up a set of gamebit screw drivers, so you can open her up and see what's wrong. I'm willing to bet you have a capacitor that has gone bad, and I'm willing to bet it is the big one. I'm talking about the 25v 1000uf one.
Image - http://imgur.com/u3ETVe8
In this picture, it is the largest one in the bottom left corner of this image (I have placed a red circle around it)
It may also be the fuse which runs across the rectangular section that is cut out of the bottom left of the board. (I have placed a red oval around it)
PS. Here is a link to the very gamebit screwdriver set that I own. They both fit their respective screws perfectly, and at 6.99 you really can't go wrong - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BEZY2I6/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_3?pf_rd_p=1535523722&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B000F78NBQ&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=1BV25384W378SQK7H9H0
Nanch tools on amazon have been awesome for me. Even hold on up to Spydercos loctite
NANCH Precision Screwdriver Set with 22 Magnetic Bits for all Electronics Devices,23-piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QZLV03O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3jxIybS1PB0TZ
Laptop: On-site warranty
Printers: Outsourced service / toner
Cisco IP Phones: Smartnet
It's not worth the time of our staff (both IT and the non-IT staff affected) to troubleshoot hardware issues. We just swap it out with a spare, then call in service or RMA the hardware.
Re: screwdriver sets... I wouldn't spend the extra money on the iFixIt brand stuff--it's pretty much the same as the Amazon link. Personally I've found most of them are the same... it just depends on the case you get and the case included with that is pretty crappy (it's essentially the VASTAR one but colored blue.. once that plastic insert gets lost or damaged [it'll probably arrive damaged, too] those bits are going to be flying all over the place and be impossible to close the case). I'd go for something like this: https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00QZLV03O/ezvid02-20
Just a screwdriver probably. I have this set and it works nicely
https://www.amazon.com/Nanch-Precision-Screwdriver-Smartphone-Electronics/dp/B00QZLV03O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1550812825&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=screwdriver%2Bset%2Belectronic&amp;th=1
I own the ifixit set and have a ton of mileage on it, but I also purchased the Nanch Precision set for less and consider it a superior product, though both are good.
Is this ok? I really can’t tell good quality tools from cheap tools so idk.
Nanch Precision Small Screwdriver Set with 22 Bits,Repair Tool Kit for Computer,Smartphone,iPhone,Game Console and other Electronics Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QZLV03O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_snfPAb4GJZJYE
I love this set. I have 2.
actually i was really curious about this so i googled/amazoned some more:
http://www.amazon.com/Screwpop-SP2BP-Black-Mutli-Tool/dp/B006GER8S6/ref=sr_1_42?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449722623&amp;sr=1-42&amp;keywords=pocket+screwdriver
http://www.amazon.com/SE-7525TS-10-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B002Q836V4/ref=sr_1_22?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449722523&amp;sr=1-22&amp;keywords=pocket+screwdriver
that one has what youre looking for but its not a 1/4" hex so itll be a pain to find replacements (those bits look kinda cheapy)
http://www.amazon.com/Bostitch-Office-Stanley-Screwdriver-66-344-2/dp/B00ZPSO8GE/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449722523&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=pocket+screwdriver
That one is a 5mm bit, close to 1/4" but not quite (1/4" is 5.5mm)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QZLV03O?psc=1
your best bet is that one with a box of #2 phillips/slotted from home depot or amazon...
Yeah, I've got 2 sets of those. Problem is 2 of the holes on the Vive controller where the screws are located (the two eye holes at the bottom) are too deep for my nubby torx screws to reach the bottom of them.
I just ordered these. Think they should be long enough
This is what I finally went with.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QZLV03O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I used one of those websites that filters out all the amazon reviews from incentivized users and such. I literally just ordered it so I can report back if you'd like once I actually receive the product.
Overkill for just a T430, but I can highly recommend this kit for laptop work. I refurbish laptops and this is the kit I use and it's quality.
Have done exactly what you are asking.
I am typing this on the lowest end 9570 (refurbished Dell Outlet) with an upgraded SSD and 97whr battery.
These are the exact parts and where I got them:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/EBK-6GTPY-Battery-Compatible-Dell-XPS-15-9560-9570-Precision-5520-M5520-Replacement-5XJ28-5041C-H5H20-5D91C-Laptop-6-Cell-11-4V-97Wh-12-Months-Warran/987434458
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079QH5KW1
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073SBX6TY
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BGZEVHU
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You will have to take out the HDD to put in the bigger battery. You may also need to change BIOS settings to get the best SSD performance.
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You will need a special screw driver to open the case, use the biggest one that will fit and remember rigthty tightly lefty lucey. :)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QZLV03O
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Look online for how to open the case. Don't forget the two Phillips in the middle under the magnetic plate.
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Battery life is outstanding.
Buy this:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-External-Aluminum-Enclosure/dp/B00E362W9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484077336&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=laptop+hard+drive+enclosure
and
https://www.amazon.com/Jakemy-Precision-Screwdriver-Electronics-Appliances/dp/B019ZSK57K/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484077395&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=screwdriver+set+small
Here is an altnerative to the case:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484077470&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=laptop+hard+drive
In all likleyhood the hard drive has gone bad.
They do that you know.
You want a laptop 2.5 inch hard drive. SATA is really the only choice for interface these days.
Now would be a great time to move up to an SSD. I have a laptop at home that is a bunch of years old. I put an SSD in it last year and it really added a lot of zip to it.
When you put the OS on it you can go ahead and put W8.1 on it, but the Free W10 upgrade is still running if you know where to get it from:
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/accessibility/windows10upgrade
What you would do is install 8.1 from the disks you have. Get the internet up, go to the desktop, don't bother with any updates (huge waste of time if you are just gonna follow through with W10) and go to that site I posted and follow there instructions.
Bonus points! Once you successfully do a W10 upgrade from W8 there is no more Windows key to worry about! Any future OS reinstall on this laptop Microsoft uses a unique identifier in the BIOS to do the validation.
This is another great inexpensive option for a torx driver set: https://www.amazon.com/Jakemy-Precision-Screwdriver-Electronic-Extension/dp/B019ZSK57K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497285185&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=torx+set+jakemy
I use this very frequently with no problems. Also has a lot of harder to find bit sizes (smaller bits).
I finally got around to doing this as well. So far, it's worked rather well. Thank you so much for the suggestion!
Edit: I needed a tri-wing screwdriver. I kept seeing them for $4-5 USD, but then found this nice little kit on Amazon. Really happy with it, because I do a lot of work with electronics.
Xiaomi Wiha Precision Screwdriver Set, 24 Magnetic Driver Bit Set, Pocket Screwdriver Tool Set, Mini Screwdriver Kit, Repair Tool Kit for Electronics https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FZ5DSWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sidhDb86FDMNJ
Is that driver set the same as this one?
This set has covered me really well for everything so far.
Xiaomi Wiha Precision Screwdriver Set, 24 Magnetic Driver Bit Set, Pocket Screwdriver Tool Set, Mini Screwdriver Kit, Repair Tool Kit for Electronics https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FZ5DSWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_58BVDbAVXE9PX
I highly recommend the Wiha 77790 Ultra Driver Multi Tool. Be sure to read the comparison chart to understand the different bit combinations available. I use the Tradesman model.
If you need something a little smaller consider the Wiha 75093 16 Piece System 4 ESD Slotted, Phillips and Torx Micro Bit Set either on its own or in addition.
If you’re looking for a good set of precision drivers I recently acquired the Xiaomi Wiha Precision Screwdriver Set, 24 Magnetic Driver Bit Set, Pocket Screwdriver Tool Set, Mini Screwdriver Kit, Repair Tool Kit for Electronics and am very pleased with them. If you’re willing to wait and run the risk of receiving a counterfeit product, you can also find this set (as I did) on Ali Express for a few less dollars.
FWIW I carried pocket knives on the NYC Subways for over 20 years without once attracting attention.
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV
Have you tried a JIS driver?
for some home diy i would say Xiaomi Wiha screwdriver set is surprisingly good https://www.amazon.com/Xiaomi-Precision-Screwdriver-Magnetic-Electronics/dp/B07FZ5DSWC
I don't know the exact size or if it's even in THIS set, but that's what would work.