Best sculpture supplies according to redditors

We found 397 Reddit comments discussing the best sculpture supplies. We ranked the 141 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Subcategories:

Sculpture molding & casting products
Sculpture release agents
Sculpture wire & armatures
Pottery & modeling clays

Top Reddit comments about Sculpture Supplies:

u/ndjs22 · 21 pointsr/oddlysatisfying

Amazon link to the mega tub because mega tub

Thermomorph Moldable Plastic Pellets - 17.6 Ounce Mega Tub

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3LAZ9O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0tDyzbDEVHFXH

u/Gundamnitpete · 17 pointsr/oculus

I built it so long ago that I don't remember the exact parts, but it was pretty simple.


They key thing I did was use hard boiled egg holders to hold the touch controllers. Basically you drop the bottom of your touch controller into this holder, then wrap your hand around the egg holder itself. Holding both the controller in the holder, and the holder itself.


The PVC parts are just 1' PVC pipe with a pair of PVC 90 degree elbows. You'll need something to cut the PVC pipe, a hacksaw works well, I used a dremel, or you can pickup a pipe cutter while you're on amazon


I also used one small piece of 3/4 inch PVC pipe wrapped in duct tape to hold the AR-15 stock onto the end. This is a luxury, but as someone who shoots real guns a lot, having a real gun stock on the end of it really makes a difference to your cheek weld.. So if you want dat real AR feel, you can pickup an AR stock right here.. All you need is the plastic stock, the tube and all the other stuff isn't required. I just warpped the 3/4 inch PVC pip in tape until it fit VERY snuggly into one of the 1" PVC elbows. I left it about 6" long, so that the rreal AR-15 stock would slide over it. I used a bunch fo tape around the 3/4" PVC pipe until the AR-15 stock very snuggly.



You will also need some 5 minute epoxy, and I used some instamorph. I used the epoxy to glue the egg holders onto the PVC pipe, and then wrapped the bases in electrical tape. Make sure you scuff up the PVC pipe before putting the epoxy on. I used a knife to scratch it up, and then some snad paper to really rough it up. This helps the epoxy hold.



I wrapped the base of my touch controllers in plastic wrap, then I heated up the instamorph and placed a bunch of it in the egg holder. Then I pushed the touch controller into the egg holder, so that the instamorph took the shape of the touch controller. DO NOT use epoxy for this.



After that, all you need to do is cut your PVC pipe to length and put the 90 degree elbows on there. The AR 15 stock is optional, not required.


I also recommend a sling, so that you can pop your hands in and out of your stock as need be. When your done with the stock, it'll just hold on the sling. And old cheapy rifle sling will work.

u/fakedyfakefake · 16 pointsr/SexToys

Honestly, I'd say ditch the kit and DIY it.

First, you want some alginate. This is what you will make the mold out of. A kit is going to give you enough for one try and this is where most people have problems (if it sets up too fast you are screwed). The 1-lb bag on Amazon is enough for four or five molds.

Second, you need body-safe silicone. I'd try either this or this. The 20A is going to be softer than the 30a. The two pints that you get from Smooth-on is enough for 3 or 4 replicas. You can also buy just the silicone from Clone A Willy. They claim that is body-safe and you'd get enough silicone for one dildo.

Third, you'd want to get something to make a tube out of to create the mold. A plastic water bottle like a 1L smart water bottle would work fine.

Fourth, you may want a vibrator to insert into the silicone before it cures (if you want a vibrator instead of a dildo). The one that comes in a kit is pretty bad. A Tango would be pretty awesome.

Finally, a good cock ring is indispensable when it comes to keeping your FWB hard through the molding process.

If you are set on a kit, the Clone A Willy kit works OK. The biggest issue I had was that it comes with a big, piece o' junk vibrator to insert into the silicone. If you didn't use the vibrator there wasn't enough silicone to get the job done. When you did insert the vibrator it was almost impossible to keep it from getting to close to an edge, creating a weak spot in the toy. After about three or four uses a small tear developed and it was no longer safe to use. If you do go for the kit, I'd highly recommend that you ditch the vibrator that comes with it and replace it with a Tango. Better vibrations and the thinner profile would work a lot better in this application.

u/zorlack · 16 pointsr/CNC

Machining the chocolate directly is going to involve a lot of complexity.

For starters, you'll have to make your whole machine food safe. That means it will need to be sanitizable and your cutting bits will have to not leave any hazardous chemicals or metals behind.

Beyond this, you now face the challenge that chocolate has an extremely low melting point and is therefore likely to melt rather than cut. When I've seen people machine chocolate its typically done in a freezer for this reason.

A simpler solution might be to machine something like jewlers wax into a positive of what you want your chocolate to look like. Then cast the wax in a food-safe silicone.

Once you have that the silicone mold should be able to safely cast the chocolate, and should be reusable to boot.

u/WirelesslyWired · 13 pointsr/Cubers
u/ThatShitCalledDeaf · 12 pointsr/ResinCasting

Hello all, thanks for looking!

These are the first batch of Dugout One Hitters that my dad and I are making in our garage. We used Amazing Cast Clear epoxy resin. The blue one is dyed with a liquid coloring and the green one is a powder with some metallic flake. We wet sanded them up to 3000 and then used 3M buffing compound for the final finish.

Here are some more pictures.

Resin Used

Liquid Coloring

Powder Coloring

Buffing Compound

We made custom molds out of HDPE and used Smooth On releasing agent.

Any feedback or questions would be appreciated! Check out more on my Instagram

u/wellhandledone · 12 pointsr/bigdickproblems

Same problems as many of the posts. Ran out of silicone. Though now they do have a larger vibrator to take up more volume for the larger girth guys. I still would get the extra silicone from them just in case.
I would also suggest getting some extra alginate. I messed up the first mold. The extra alginate I got was much better than the stuff provided by clone-a-willy. It changes color when it is ready. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PULSRM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

u/_joe_king · 12 pointsr/food

Amazon of course

u/smallpoly · 11 pointsr/WTF

I like using alginate. Solidifies cold, can do all sorts of fine detail, and is super soft so it's easy to get out of.

u/oldcrow · 9 pointsr/3Dprinting

Hi Igor,

I'm in Des Moines, Iowa but my Mom lives in the Twin Cities. I get up there from time to time. If you don't hear back from any Minnesotans, let me know.

This would be a fascinating adaptive engineering project!
I'm wondering if you could make an alginate cast of your hand in a comfortable position and then use that as a reference.

Then a shell could be designed and more than likely a mouse could be hacked apart and the buttons and sensors relocated inside the shell.

I'm teaching myself Fusion 360 and this would be a very interesting project. But I'll wait to see if there are more experienced people who may be near you.

Please keep us updated on your quest!

u/cancer2324 · 9 pointsr/bigdickproblems

How To Start Your Own Dildo Making Business

Tube - (Amazon)

Temporary Molds - (Amazon)

Long-term Molds - (Amazon) https://www.smooth-on.com/products/dragon-skin-10-nv/

Rubber To Fill Mold - (Amazon) https://www.smooth-on.com/products/dragon-skin-30/

Color (optional) - https://shop.smooth-on.com/silc-pig

u/Mark3500 · 8 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

This should do the trick. You can watch the general process of creating a sculpture by watching his other videos. Also searching for polymer clay on google and checking the video section should yield plenty of results.


I myself work with "Super Sculpey Firm", but I'd probably recommend starting with the softer version "Super Sculpey". I highly recommend this tool set or any other similar looking ones that Amazon recommends, you mostly find a favorite tool and use that for 95% of the work. For many years I used to work exclusively with toothpicks to sculpt, before I got the money to spend on tools.


Also, if you haven't already, you can check the Album I mentioned in my comment to see the process of making this exact sculpture. What I didn't capture in the photos, is that the leafs actually have a small wire going through them, to hold them up like that.

u/jerkfacebeaversucks · 8 pointsr/robotics

$22 Amazon stainless whiskey stone ice cube tray plus $29 2 part room temp cure silicone that doesn't need to be cooked?

https://www.amazon.ca/Dernord-Stainless-Whiskey-Chilling-Reusable/dp/B077XC5DYN

https://www.amazon.ca/Smooth-Smooth-Cast-Liquid-Plastic-Compound/dp/B004BN7G0E

Silicone don't stick to anything and will release surprisingly easy. If you're having trouble a tiny little bit of dish soap and water on the mold before hand will fix the problem.

u/bigcatmonaco · 8 pointsr/HumansBeingBros

I’m going on 4 years hiding the fact that I have no front teeth from everyone in my life, thanks to instamorph and similar products.

It’s a hassle having to remake them everytime they wear down, but I have an almost two year old and I can’t afford to replace my front teeth.


Instamorph to me is a little too hard to work with, so I mix it about 50:50 with a different thermoplastic I found on amazon. The result is something that gets more malleable for making the actual teeth, I use it to hide three front ones that broke/fell out/etc.

My girl of 13 years has no idea what I go through, I’ve never shown anyone besides my buddies two young kids what I look like without anything in .

But it feels nice to not have to completely hide my mouth when I’m talking. Just be careful of certain foods.


Pasta sauce and Cheese sauce are killers and leave terrible stains on the surface.


Hopefully one day I’ll be able to get something legitimate done and smile for pictures again... until then, 8-10 bucks every six months Keeps me from completely shutting myself down from the outside world.



Here’s a link to the other stuff I mix with the instamorph.

It has a slightly lower “melting” point.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B077874HM8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

u/kyleblue93 · 6 pointsr/DIY

Cheaper to buy alginate on amazon instead of the molding kits. only down side is you need to pick out your own silicone.

The clone-a-willy molding powder bag is 3oz for $7.95.

The Alja-Safe Alginate I linked on amazon is 3lbs(48oz) for $26.13. That's equivalent to 16 bags of clone-a-willy molding powder bags.

u/Meishel · 6 pointsr/Nerf

I run this instead of a Dremel brand tool. I have had a couple Dremels die on me over the years, so I tried this one and it has lasted 4 years so far! I also got a lot of my bits from harbor freight. I use the cuttoff wheels (ALWAYS WEAR FACE PROTECTION WITH THESE), Sanding Drums, and grinding stones the most. Use the cutoff for cutting out large swaths of material, sanding drums for tighter areas, and grinding stones to debur and smooth it all out. Most work that needs a dremel can be done with hand tools for better control. Coping saw, files, and flush cutters can go a long way. A lot of the "pros" don't use Dremels because they can jump out of control and hit a part of the blaster you planned on leaving stock and leaving a huge gash.

As for soldering Irons, I've heard wonderful things about this model, but cheaper models will work fine. TBH, I'd grab something in the $10 range and see if he sticks with the hobby. Maybe for christmas you can get him a nicer one if he's still going at it. I use a super duper old school Weller soldering station, so really anything will work. The issue you'll get with the cheaper soldering irons is the tips will tend to not last long and the heating element might crap out after a few months. Don't go cheaper than $10 here as some of them are meant for wood engraving, not soldering and wont get hot enough to melt solder. Any size solder is fine. I personally use lead/tin solder and just avoid breathing fumes as well as wash my hands when I'm done modding. Lead solder is MUCH easier to work with and requires less heat. Look for "Rosin Core solder" as it's easier to work with as it has flux in the center of the solder.

Good flush cutters, hobby knife, wire strippers, heatshrink, wire, loctite, etc are all valuable modding supplies. We sell some on our shop (shameless plug). I would recommend for plastic to plastic bonds he use Devcon Plastic Welder (make sure it contains Methyl Methacrylate as this acts as a solvent weld to bond the plastics together chemically instead of a weak adhesive grip like putty). Putty should be used as a filler material. I use two different putties. Free form Air for large amounts of gap fill, it is 6 times less dense than normal putty so it wont make the blaster weight 8 pounds when done. It is VERY easy to sand, but sometimes requires a thin layer of bondo over top of it to leave a perfect finish. I also use Apoxie Sculpt which is a direct replacement for normal putty for gap filling purposes. It's MUCH easier to sand than JB Weld putty, and leaves a nice smooth finish when sanded down.

Speaking of sandpaper, get various grades of sandpaper from 100 down to 600 grit (I go as far as 1000 if I want a gloss sheen on something).

Other than all of that, the tools I have on my bench that I would hate to mod without now are: Helping hands (for soldering), various different sizes of needle nose pliers, numerous sizes of small to medium screwdrivers, silicone lubricant, hot glue (for securing wires inside the shell), Electric Screwdriver, and various tweezers.

u/ProlapsedPineal · 6 pointsr/Warhammer40k

I might have some work in progress pics but my approach is usually like this.

I spend some time using GIS looking at other people's ideas for a conversion. I start making a shopping list. With both of the models in this thread you have lots of parts from Skaven Hellpit Abomination, and Soul Grinder.

From there I poke around on ebay for a few days/weeks until I get all the bits I'm looking for. I try be careful of vendors that want to charge shipping for every bit, or I can order $7 worth of bits and pay $21 in shipping. Be patient.

The maggot head on the soul grinder was from ... I forget.. but it's like a big walking maggot head guy made by some other vendor than gamestop.

My shopping list included barrels (for pus), possessed limbs, and green stuff. Greenstuff isn't cheap so I often will use something else if I have to fill in large gaps

Miliput is about 1/2 the price of Greenstuff but there are tradeoffs It's more like something you would use to make a ceramic out of. It practically melts when you get water on it, but you need it wet. Not great for details, but perfect if you just need to fill in a big gap.

For those big gap areas (a space of more than 1" needs to get filled in) what I do sometimes is wad up some aluminum foil. Stuff that in the hole. Then I cover it with the Miliput. This gives the model the structure I needed. Once that is there, I can just use the greenstuff for the cosmetic work, not the structural part.

Things usually start off looking really bad. You just have bits jammed all up together, but you keep adding a little more filler in here, and there, and it starts coming together. Once you get the primer on (fyi Miliput takes a few more coats to cover). it starts to take shape.

u/NobleOccum · 6 pointsr/funkopop

Buy this for all your Pops that don't stand. We have over 900 Pops, and this is the best thing to use that we've tried.

r/https://www.amazon.com/InstaMorph-Moldable-Plastic-6-oz/dp/B004MFLU4Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1536279608&sr=8-2&keywords=instamold

u/pierogisandwich · 5 pointsr/Wellthatsucks

Bro, I had a 99 Maxima with those exact same keys... both copies of the key broke the same way. I just got some moldable plastic like Instamorph and bridged the gap on the key. Sucks though... you drop those keys once and boom.

u/Karter705 · 5 pointsr/gaming

Honestly, the biggest thing is having the right tools. My friend is a circuit board engineer and he let me use his workshop which saved me days. From a technical perspective, nothing here is too difficult -- the tricky parts are in the details, like wiring up the original power switch and reset switch to work with the Raspi global input/output and somehow wiring up the LED light, but these things aren't really necessary for it to function, just added flair. Apart from that, you literally just throw the img file onto a micro sd card, put that on a raspi, mount the board to something and you're pretty much done.

That said, I did discover that this stuff is effing awesome.

u/video_descriptionbot · 5 pointsr/lego

SECTION | CONTENT
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Title | How To Make LEGO Gummy Candy!
Description | This simple recipe is great to do with the kids, and lets you pump out massive amounts of custom gummies, that are snack-able, and stackable as well! [✓] Lego Ice Molds: http://amzn.to/2cBCIRa [✓] SmoothSil Silicone: http://amzn.to/21k9Eex [✓] Karo Corn Syrup: http://amzn.to/2ctti67 [✓] Knox Gelatin: http://amzn.to/2chOEUL [✓] Blue Jell-O: http://amzn.to/2chPEYR Endcard Links: Batarang: https://goo.gl/ggrtBr Clothespin Gun: https://goo.gl/ZNMN6L Ninja Balls: http://bit.ly/SquishyNinjaBalls So...
Length | 0:06:19






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u/notcishetbutgaytrans · 5 pointsr/ResinCasting

Art N Glow, personal fave. Got mine off of Amazon here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BM9LHRB/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_NbpVDbMX0D84V

u/LadyPseudonymia · 4 pointsr/SexToys

I totally agree with your gf, I think 20A (what Clone-a-Willy uses) is way too high a shore durometer for realism.

The hardness of an actual erection averages about 10A shore. So once you make an alginate mold, you can pour Smooth-On Dragon Skin 10 silicone into that. If your gf wants the dildo to be squishy and have a soft, skin-like feel, then Dragon Skin 00-50 is a better choice. 00-30 is going to be super-duper squishy and even floppy.

Those silicones are the best choices because they're certified skin-safe.

Unfortunately, you may always have occasional air bubbles if you're not vacuum-degassing silicone.

u/harperrb · 4 pointsr/ageofsigmar

Plastic glue is an evil set out to frustrate new people to the hobby. Initially enticing, incredibly limited, long term damaging, and overall a waste of money. Beware. Always only use super glue.

There, now we're done with that.

It's not plastic, it's resin.

Best practice is to lightly rub it with soap and water and wait for it to completely dry.

Take a xacto and file to it to even out connecting faces. It can often be warped as well. If so, google methods to reshape warped resin. It's been a while for myself.

Use super glue only to glue it.



Then use super glue to clue it together.

Buy this.

Fill the gaps. Sand as necessary.

u/bambooclad · 4 pointsr/wicked_edge

I've been thinking of making one for myself...

Tin

Moldable Plastic

https://youtu.be/v7Np50hwSBg?t=1m28s


Mirror

u/congenitallymissing · 4 pointsr/Dentistry

i had a patient that made his own denture that ive wrote about before. it was a nightmare. he had nonrestorable dentition and needed full mouth edentulation and denure fabrication. he couldnt afford it and disappeared for months. then on a friday at 430 he showed up as an emergency on my schedule. he used these beads that he bought off amazon that they make hollywood masks out of and stuff. i guess you heat it up to make it moldable? so he heated it in his oven and then shoved it in his mouth. it bonded to all of his tissue and remaining teeth. he had it in his mouth for 3 days before he had the courage to admit he needed help. i had to try t oget him numb under it (which was crazy difficult) and section it surgically. when it finally became removable, it brought teeth and tissue with it. he needed bone and tissue grafts, residual root tip exts, and a denture made afterward. all and all it ended up being way more expensive than if he would have just had regular ext and dentures made. this was maybe 5 years ago. i had taken a ton of pictures for liablity reasons at the time. but since then ive moved across the country and opened my own practices, so im pretty positive i dont have the pics anymore

edit: im pretty sure he used a material similar to this https://www.amazon.com/InstaMorph-Moldable-Plastic-6-oz/dp/B004MFLU4Y/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 ... it was definitely all white and looked more like a mouthguard than a denture

u/FamilyHeirloomTomato · 4 pointsr/LifeProTips

InstaMorph is pretty much the same thing except it doesn't expire and is less expensive. (I haven't actually used either one, so I could be wrong...)

u/diablodeldragoon · 3 pointsr/SexToys

This is the material used for the clone a willie mold portion. You can adjust the set time a little by adjusting the amount and temp of the water. It sets in about - 30 seconds. This box is enough to cover about half an adult body. I've made 3-4 clone kits in the past. Some things to look out for, if you're not circumcised the foreskin will most likely cause problems unless you can keep it fully retracted. The mold material can get between the foreskin and glans, this will cause pockets in the finished product and harbor bacteria. If you have any sort of curve at all, cut the mold tube for the curve. I don't have much of a curve but it has ruined molds because it puts me too close to the side of the tube and the mold is too thin, or breaks through. The rubber material is really hard, like the old style dildos. Some women find this uncomfortable. If I ever make another one, I want to do something like the modern real skin dildos. They have a hard rubber core with a softer silicone rubber outer layer so you get the rigidity for hard thrusting and the softness of skin. Unfortunately that requires a lot more time, material, molds and money. There ate also services that will bring you in and 3d scan your penis and custom build a dildo. It's significantly more expensive however.


1 X Alja-Safe Alginate 3-lb Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KVSU60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3FHKzbD3769MV

u/hungrockhunk · 3 pointsr/SexToys

I agree with /u/redsnappa127 . The materials that make up the clone willy kit are standard life-casting materials. Search for molding alginate on amazon. You can get a pound of alginate for $15 http://amzn.com/B007PULSRM or you get get 4lbs from Smooth-on which is the company that professional body casters use for $32: http://amzn.com/B000QCM27Q or from smooth-on: http://www.smooth-on.com/Life-Casting-Alja-/c3_1185/index.html?catdepth=1

Then you need a platinum cured silicone which is the more expensive part $38: http://amzn.com/B00EOA25X2 or www.smooth-on.com/Silicone-Rubber-an/c2_1115_1131/index.html?catdepth=1

SmoothSil 940 is platinum cured and food safe so it should be safe to make into a dildo.

You just need a molding container and that would be easy to make out of an old water bottle, the 1L smart water bottles would be good as they are decently sized and smooth sided.

u/zortech · 3 pointsr/furry

What kind of advice are you looking for? Most fursuits heads are made of foam or resin. The foam is generally carved using a electric knife or a serrated knife. It needs to have teeth. An alternative would be to use something like Varaform, It is not used in the fandom that iv seen. I would assume long term structural issues and the fact that its soft at 160F.

If you haven't already, get a styrofoam head from a place like hobby lobby to assist with modeling. If you plan to do this a lot, id spend money on an life sized bust from monster makers or some other place.

Also check out Apoxie Sculpt Its commonly used around the eyes on fursuits, and is easy to work with. One of the nice things is that early in the setting 30-40 min in you can dip your finger into water and smooth out most of the scratches and some lumps to give a smooth finish.

u/db2 · 3 pointsr/DiWHY

I'd recommend redoing the wording using an epoxy modeling clay. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000V58DS0/

You'll have much nicer lines that way. Hot glue isn't really much good for creating a finished surface.

u/TrevNick · 3 pointsr/amiibo

No problem. :)

I'd recommend these too if you wanna get finer details in.

I'd also invest in some fine grain sand paper.

u/Myvenom · 3 pointsr/Nerf

Ok good because I’d recommend this stuff. It’s very easy to work with and fill holes. A little tip is to wet your fingers down after it’s pretty much in place and smooth it out. It takes awhile to set up but after that a little sanding and paint away.

u/FC-TWEAK · 3 pointsr/Nerf

Along with the already great suggestions by OrangeKrate76, check out Apoxie Sculpt.

It dries/cures slower so it gives you more working time to work with molding, so less sanding to do in the long run. But I'm not sure the structural and weight difference versus 2 part epoxy.

u/Nxn21 · 3 pointsr/Ghostbc

SE DD312 12-Piece Stainless Steel Wax Carvers Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000SVRSRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GAPFDbPW0RSP7

Apoxie Sculpt 1 lb. White, 2 Part Modeling Compound (A & B) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013UDWXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9APFDb4BZREHF

Sand Detailer Finishing Kit, Finer Grits, 24 piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0039ZCQAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BCPFDbBV5SSGW

SERONLINE 24pcs Ball Stylus Dotting Tools, Polymer Modeling Clay Sculpting Tools Set Rock Painting Kit for Sculpture Pottery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0776SN7Y5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JDPFDbTH56VM0

Monster Clay Premium Grade Modeling Clay (5lb) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0722NKKYF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dEPFDb1WPY7K2

u/VaultBoy42 · 3 pointsr/ArticulatedPlastic

It often depends on what your end goal is. Some sculpting putty is going to be a bit softer and rubbery as it cures, while others will be very hard.

I like Aves Apoxie Sculpt for most projects. It's very hard when it cures, but you can work a decent amount of detail into it if you sculpt it after it's been out a while, but before it totally cures.

u/IvaldiClan · 3 pointsr/pokemon

It's a process. if you've never done any mold making or casting before, I recommend finding something small that's flat on one side and detailed on the other, like a pendant or tiny wall hanging. Then, go to your local craft store or online and pick up a silicone mold making kit. You can get something like thiswhich is inexpensive. You'll want a mold release too, which you'll use on any surface the resin will come in contact with.

The resin is next. There's all kinds depending on what you want. Clear like glass, glow in the dark, opaque, etc. You can even mix stuff like dyes and glitters into it if you want a different effect.

Then, of course , there are the boring things like gloves, plastic cups for mixing, sticks for stirring, etc. Those shouldn't cost too much. In total, it would probably cost around $100-150 USD to get started. Just the products I linked you would be good for a dozen or more small objects so it's worth the price.

Mess around making a bunch of little molds and casting resin stuff to get a good feel for the process. There are a lot of tutorials on YouTube to help you along. Depending on your end goal, there are a ton of different techniques to attain the results your after. More than I can go into here.

If you're interested in sculpting your own stuff, that's a whole 'nother beast entirely and there are multiple way to go about it. Either way, if you have any questions about products or what to do, you're free to message me anytime. I'm always happy to bring more people into the fold.

u/lag051183 · 3 pointsr/pcgamingtechsupport

Sugru or moldable plastic. Save what you don't use for another fix.

u/GammaRae53 · 3 pointsr/SexToys

We have tried it and thought it was okay, but I would personally recommend buying some alginate and Dragon Skin silicone.

 

For about the same price we got a much better toy--and have materials left over for more cloning fun. Dragon Skin is a professional grade silicone that is pretty widely used by both the movie and sex toy industry. You can choose the hardness/softness you want (we went with the 10A as that was what most forums suggested). It can be bought from Smooth-On directly or on amazon, ebay, etc. As for the alginate, we went with this mostly for the price and convenience, but it worked great.

 

Anything that won't leak (and is large enough to accomodate your anatomy, of course) should work as a container for the mould. We went with a QT cup (cheap and easy), but you can also simply cut the top off of a plastic bottle. Apparently, legos work surprisingly well and are a popular choice, but those little fuckers are too expensive IMO.

 

This redditor explains the process we followed pretty well and Youtube is full of helpful videos on how to do lifecasting. We actually ended up purchasing some plaster to make the positive mould that could be reused. (Side perk: a plaster mould of a cock sitting the bookshelf also makes for a hilarious conversation piece).

 

I realize this route sounds much more involved, but we honestly felt that it was much easier and more cost effective. The clone-a-willy kits seem too finnicky and leave little room for error. Having one shot to get it right can take the fun out of it and makes it hard to, er...stay hard (crucial to the process). Getting some wiggle room and ending up with a much higher quality end product was well worth the extra $10 (at least for us). Either way, I wish you the best of luck!

u/hungupondpp · 3 pointsr/bigdickproblems

I tried it before they introduced the larger vibrator insert. I actually ran out of of silicone so it shredded the length by an inch. Seeing you are the same girth as me and also longer I suggest the larger kit. I also messed up the first time with their alginate so I had to by some separate from their kit. I got a bit quicker setting and also color change alginate so you know when it is ready to place yourself.

My take is that it is an awkward process so be prepared to mess up the first time. It also really helps to do with with a partner. Not only can they help mix and prep but also give you visual and physical stimulation to keep you ready to mold.

Color change alginate: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PULSRM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Jianzi1 · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Man you are fast. It's a plastic that is mouldable when over 100 degrees C and cools to solid. Like 3D printing without the printer or accuracy.

I bought Plastimake, but there are tonnes of versions like it on [Amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/Thermomorph-Moldable-Plastic-Pellets-17-8/dp/B00D3LAZ9O)

u/Necoras · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

As /u/wenbobular said, you probably want food grade silicone. There are a few ways to go about making such a thing. If you're trying to make something like a jello mold, I'd invert the print and fill it with the silicone. If you want a press mold then the silicone would need to just be a thin coating on your plastic. That's going to be hard to achieve while keeping a sharp enough edge to cut your dough. Good luck!

u/mechabruce · 2 pointsr/MetalCasting

Here you go. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KVSU60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_km5QBb3DGQ2QP

This is s product called aginate. You mix it with water 1:1 by volume and it sets into a semi solid gel. It's derived from sea weed, and is very safe. This is the sort of product used for dental molds and sets within minutes. It's perfect for casting hands.
Pro tip: a quick spray of wd40 or some other spray lubricant on your arm/hand will help reduce the number of air bubbles that cling to the skin when molding. They will come through in the cast.

Edit: this is to get a plaster original. DO NOT POUR MOLTEN METAL IN TO ANYTHING WET! This stuff might work with wax, I haven't tried.

u/TheThinboy · 2 pointsr/Metalfoundry

Quick and dirty, this can work, it is uses relatively easily available and cheap materials, and can give reasonable results. There might be some cracks or flashing in the finished hand but the can be filed out relatively easily. However you need a dedicated oven for a good few days.

Use either alginate to make a hand mold, they sell kits
Be aware the alginate molds do degrade rapidly, and are generally unusable in less than a day. If you send one to your sister, have her make the hand in plaster then make a simple gauze mold of the plaster positive.

or..

Buy plaster infused gauze and do a quick 2 part mold around the hand using it. Lay hand flat do one side, with a bit of gauze to form a parting lip, wait to set up, flip hand over, grease the lip, and do the other side. Then remove it carefully reinforce it enough to hold wax.

Ideally you want to end up with a void you can do a slush casting. Heat the wax (preferably microcrystalline, or beeswax, but paraffin can do in a pinch) Melt it in a double boiler for safety, do not over heat the wax. Pour in enough to fill the mold, then wait maybe 10 15 seconds and dump it out. Repeat the process until you get about an 1/8 " thick shell of wax.


Remove the wax from the mold carefully, and fix any issues that you may have. for quick and dirty I would simply plan on using the wrist as a all purpose pour cup, vent/sprue. I would attach the wrist to a square of cardboard wix wax to make the wax easier to handle for the next steps.

Mix up dry 50/50 by weight, plaster (buy a 50lbs bag from a home store for $12-15) and silica flour (might be able to find locally at pottery supply or if flour is too difficult to find, use as fine as possible silica sand). This will be your investment.

Mix a small amount thinly and paint it on the surface of the hands, essentially making a very thin shell. This will help prevent bubbles from forming. Once the thin layer is on, Mix up a thicker mix and layer it on about a half inch thick. I usually would wrap it with some hardware cloth or steel wire about now. It will help the mold from cracking apart when heated. It does not need to be extremely tight it is just there to provide reinforcement. You can then cast or lay on a thicker mold around it. For a hand sized piece should for roughly 1" minimum plaster all the way around. The thicker the mold the longer it will take to dry out in the oven.


After the plaster is set I would give it a day, then in a 200 F ish oven melt out the wax. put a pan of water under and watch it like a hawk. The wax will melt and float on top, and the steam can help transfer the heat to the mold. This is a fire hazard so watch it. It will probably take a few hours. Once the wax is all out (this will melt out quicker as a slush mold vs solid wax) turn up the heat to 350, and cook it for 6-8 hours, then take it up to the max temp usually about 500 and cook it for at least 24 hours, more if possible, and more if considerably thicker than an inch. Long story short, you want all the free water gone.. Unless your oven goes over 600, there will be some H20 still chemically bonded in the plaster, but it should not matter too much if you drive off all free water. You can melt out and cook the mold ahead of time, but they will reabsorb moisture from air if not kept in hot dry place.

When you are ready to pour, you will want to pour these mold while still hot straight from the oven, and buried up to the top in sand ideally in something like a steel bucket. The sand will ensure nothing will seep out if the mold cracks. Level the wrist opening so it will cast evenly.

Be forewarned and perform at your own risk. Wear full protective layer of clothing, mask and head covering. These type of molds could easily trap moisture and cause a pop and send molten metal flying in the air that rain downs upon you. This can sometimes happen up to a minute or so after they are poured. Pour the aluminum in slowly, and if it starts to spit or pop up out of the mold, just stop. The mold is too wet to pour and needed to be dried further.


u/athey · 2 pointsr/Dolls

For getting rid of molded clothes, and so many other super useful things, I recommend owning a dremel, or other rotary tool.

You don't need a fancy one. I've got 3 dremel tools, of varying degrees of torque and power. One is identical to this one - only without the pet grooming branding. It's still a dremel - it'll still work.

Dremel 7300-PT 4.8V Pet Nail Grooming Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jF4xDb8CJPTXW
$30


I did find this guy for a super cheap price -
WEN 23006 Two-Speed Cordless Rotary Tool Kit with 10-Piece Accessory Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MSL9PW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4C4xDb9MG46FY
$12

Can't vouch for it being any good, given its price, but it should be compatible with the dremel rotary bits, and for a starter tool, and just working on dolls, it should be fine.

Whatever rotary you get, you'll need a few things to go with it. I recommend one or both of these -

Sanding drums
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BK1VRH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yJ4xDb738D61Y

Abrasive buffing wheels
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075C72PGK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NH4xDbCZ6DM5C

The buffing wheels are pretty good a removing tiny molded clothing details without eating up the plastic a lot.

If you ever do anything with apoxie-sculpt, the dremel can come in handy with grinding down things after its cured.

OH - and sand paper. Buy sand paper.

I recommend getting some 120 grit, 220 grit, and some 400 grit. You work your way from the lower, rougher paper, up to 400 to get a smooth finish. When you get up to 400, make sure you sand in circular motions to avoid leaving gouges in the plastic.

u/dsq24 · 2 pointsr/MarvelLegends

I saw a tutorial where they used apoxie sculpting clay.
It’s this one here.

u/spencerkami · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I am a utter novice myself! Never touched polymer clay really until the day before yesterday! Personally I am using this tool set which /u/shawnusaurus got me. It's awesome and while I don't know how to use half of them yet, I don't think my sheep could have been made without it!

I've only used fimo soft really so far but it seems good! Super malleable and easy to use!

u/FistyMcBumBardier · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

I started by using a plastic fork, until it was time to up my model making game and I purchased a set of Amtech tools. Not the best quality, but they work really well for the price that I paid.

Here are the ones that I purchased: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Piece-Stainless-Steel-Wax-Carving/dp/B000V6MTDO/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493756622&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=clay+moulding+tools+amtech

u/factorV · 2 pointsr/hardware

I use this stuff called apoxie sculpt, it is great for that stuff. it mixes in two parts (like an epoxy) stays workable for about 2 hours, adheres to almost anything, is pretty cheap and hardens like the original plastic substance.

*oh, and it can be tooled once cured.

u/BarefootHippieDesign · 2 pointsr/crafts

You could try polymer clay or a product called Apoxy Sculpt that I found on amazon. I've used this with great success.
Apoxy Sculpt

u/Extech · 2 pointsr/ActionFigures

I've purposely bought a few damaged figures, but I'm very into customizing, so I tend to buy what I think I can fix.

If your absolutely going to buy the statue one way or the other and the damage isn't too severe I'd consider picking it up and saving the money.

I've never fixed a statue, but I'd assume it's a little easier than a fig since there's no moving parts.

If you got a picture of the damage I, or someone else more knowledgeable than me could give you some pointers on how to fix it.

Since it's Batman's cape, I'm assuming one of the end spikes broke off. If that's the case all you would need to do is buy some Apoxie Sculpt or similar epoxy, re-sculpt the damaged part, then try to match the paint with some black/blue acylics.

You say the damage isn't noticeable in certain poses so even if the fix isn't that pretty, from a distance it'll probably look fine.

u/itshuffman · 2 pointsr/SquaredCircle

Apoxie sculpt seems to be the standard for custom POP Vinyl figures.

http://www.amazon.com/Apoxie-Sculpt-1-Lb-White/dp/B0013UDWXI

u/ZoodlezuZ · 2 pointsr/funkopop

Sounds good! I got mine on Amazon.
Apoxie Sculpt 1 Lb. White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013UDWXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sm7-AbS384KVZ

u/CobaltMoon98 · 2 pointsr/funkopop
u/rotnab · 2 pointsr/powerrangers

You could try some epoxy sculpt. It hardens like plastic. Also you should still be able to bend the wing one it sets.

Apoxie Sculpt 1/4 lb. White, 2 Part Modeling Compound (A & B) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013UFM7M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_C3CDDbWFCK76G

u/StopDropNFrag · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

If it's not too late, I've had success with Aves Apoxie.

https://www.amazon.com/Apoxie-Sculpt-White-modeling-compound/dp/B0013UFM7M

Run a search on action figure customizers using the stuff for tutorials.

u/Rheul · 2 pointsr/starwarscollecting

I recommend apoxie sculpt. You can fill the crack smooth it out and when it dries paint over it. I use it all the time for all sorts of stuff. It should work fixing this.

u/Ursin_Brennus · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I like Aves Apoxie Sculpt. You can take very small amounts as needed. Thins, smooths, and cleans up with water (wet your fingers before mixing parts A & B).

u/Max-Ray · 2 pointsr/KingdomDeath

Welcome to the world of moldmaking. I've had moderate success using this method:

You'll need Instant Mold - a low temp plastic that hot water will make maleable.

And Milliput - a 2 part putty.

Put the Instant Mold in hot water, let it soften. Pull it out and press your base into it. Hold it under cold water so it 'hardens'. Peel out your base and you'll have a negative mold. Use the Putty to fill the negative mold, let it harden overnight and then pull out the hardened putty base. It'll probably need some cleanup around the edges but you're done.

u/DreadPirateRobertsIV · 2 pointsr/Nerf

I use Devcon Plastic Welder to bond parts, and Milliput Superfine White as additional structural support and filler and to blend the shells together.

u/librarian-faust · 2 pointsr/minipainting
u/DraconisMarch · 2 pointsr/Nerf

Fill with this stuff?

u/outremus · 2 pointsr/KingdomDeath

To add to the good info above: for KDM miniatures you are pretty much guaranteed to need to use putty/epoxy for the gaps on them if you want them to look good painted. Most of the big monsters will have some very noticeable gaps when put together, and it is fairly common on some of the armor kit survivors too (especially the unarmored kit mentioned above - serious issues with "ken doll" arm sockets).

For larger gaps, I prefer milliput superfine white. It is firm enough you can shape it (add water to help change consistency if needed).
https://www.amazon.com/Milliput-Superfine-2-Part-Hardening-Putty/dp/B002CNEWAM

For smaller hairline graps, I really like Vallejo Plastic Putty. It doesn't require pre mixing and is easier to work with if you just need to get it into a tiny gap. Usually apply it then wipe off with wet cloth.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PHCNLC

u/NewYorkJewbag · 2 pointsr/somethingimade

Sorry for late reply. This is the product I used:

https://www.amazon.com/Magic-Sculpt-Lb-Epoxy-Clay/dp/B003AL71FI

It's really nice to work with. It behaves a lot like porcelain, you can smooth with water or this special liquid they sell. It hardens in an hour, and can be sanded etc. it's rock hard when done and resemble porcelain.

u/Mitoza · 2 pointsr/DnD

You should pick up some modeling epoxy. Very easy to work with, easy to paint, and it has a pretty long working time. It'll stick to anything but if you want it to be long lasting you can model it around hooks if you want a wood or plastic base.

https://www.amazon.com/Magic-Sculpt-Lb-Epoxy-Clay/dp/B003AL71FI

u/snaketankofeden · 2 pointsr/orks

If you're using a mold made out of green stuff, and don't want to change method too much, I would suggest using magic-sculpt... same principal as green stuff except it has a lower viscosity, responds more drastically to water, and dries harder so it won't flex like the green stuff. I've used this instead of green stuff for decades... way cheaper

u/AlbertVanK · 2 pointsr/transformers

I just jumped on this topic yesterday. I am not repairing toys I am trying to make custom feet for Combiner Wars toys. I have a Perfect Effect set, and I have the original (horrible) small feet. I want to use the hinge of the original one, make a custom shape using DAS clay, sculpt the foot, use it to make a mold and cast plastic feet for my combiners. It will probably become lot of work for a poor result, but I am going to give it a try. :)
I read a lot about products and it seems that Smooth On offers good result.
http://www.amazon.com/Smooth--Silicone-Making-Rubber-Inc/dp/B004BNF3TK/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1462795907&sr=1-1&keywords=smooth+on

http://www.amazon.com/Smooth--Smooth-Cast-Liquid-Plastic-Compound/dp/B004BN7G0E/ref=sr_1_2?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1462795907&sr=1-2&keywords=smooth+on

u/Freestyle_Skater · 2 pointsr/rollerblading

If you have a problem with your foot sliding forward, you can make your own.

Simply take this Molding Compound and take out your laces and pull the tongue of your skates all the way back. Roll up some of this and put it in the end of your skate. Slide your foot in the skate and allow the mold to harden. Take your foot out and remove the molding. Cut off any excess you don’t need. Take some super glue and glue the molding where it makes contact with the inside of the skate. Install the molding back into the skate and allow the glue to dry. This will give you a perfect fitting toe and will stop any sliding forward you may have.

u/CongrooElPsy · 2 pointsr/videos

It looks like this stuff, or something very similar. (Ignore the part where it shows it being poured white on the package. It's actually clear until it hardens.)

u/kiwiburd · 2 pointsr/ResinCasting

Sure!! It’s this one Smooth-On Universal Mold Release 14 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BNHLOK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aKTDDbBNZM1N7 that’s a bummer about your molds!! I hear silicone works too

u/TimLParis · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Instamorph is also great stuff. You soften it in boiling water and it is workable like silly putty until it cools. Repeat as often as necessary to get it right.

u/mutepenguin · 2 pointsr/yokaiwatch

I was working on something like this, but I kind of gave it up in favor of cooler projects... my ideas were:

  1. Simply put, instead of holes mounting in nylon nuts, and using the corresponding bolt heads as the nubs (nylon so it didn't scratch up the switches)

    OR

  2. The less complicated but not as cool method, using thermoplastic. Thermoplastic is a plastic that is moldable with heat, so heat it up, form small balls, and stick them partway in the holes, with a bit sticking up to form the nubs. When you want to switch it just pop it in some hot water, and they get soft again.
u/anonanon1313 · 2 pointsr/lifehacks

Another great material for repair is Instamorph:

InstaMorph - Moldable Plastic - 6 oz
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MFLU4Y/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_us?ie=UTF8

u/skep-tiker · 2 pointsr/Nerf

One Idea I have had for this was the usage of products like Gorilla plastic or InstaMorph to create an ergonamical Grip espacially designed for my Hand, like Tournament Guns are having it.

u/Camelregularfresh · 2 pointsr/Filmmakers

Thrift store or craigslist would probably be your best bets.

Depending on your school, you might be able to get some pieces on loan from a theater department?

For adding details on your costumes and accessories, maybe ask around and see if a school/library/local hackerspace can get you access to a 3d printer. If all else fails, a ten dollar bag of thermoplastic and some spare time can go a long way for making/modifying props and adding details at a super low budget.

As a side note, thermoplastic is also a lifesaver for building/repairing weird ass mounts, accessories, and holders for shit at the last minute.

u/revjjones79 · 2 pointsr/wma

One of my guys make tips out of a moldable plastic.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MFLU4Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_2CqrybK72VEP9

u/c4ptainmorgan · 2 pointsr/battlebots

Have you ever played around with this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004MFLU4Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495313333&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=instamorph+moldable+plastic&psc=1

It's a plastic that turns clear, sticks to itself and gets a texture similar to silly putty when you put it in 55 degree Celsius water. Once it cools, the plastic hardens and is actually pretty durable. I made a cone shape like a party hat and smashed it with a hammer a few times and it flexed but sprung back into shape immediately. The plastic is remoldable if you just heat it back up. You could mold it into any shape or thickness you want, and it is actually pretty strong.

u/Pseudo_Prodigal_Son · 2 pointsr/3dprintingdms

Yea, I broke some off its fingers taking the supports off my prints of this model as well. And really your print looks as good as mine does. Maybe you could slow print speed down a little more, to like 1500 mm / min, and get the remaining fingers to look a little more round.

I use a product off Amazon called InstaMorph to mold replacement parts for stuff that I can't just glue back together.

u/neregekaj · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Here's mine! I'm looking to continue working on a project of mine and I need some of it!

As for April Fools... oh boy. My dad was a cruel person. The house I grew up in had a playset in the backyard and us kids used it daily, so it was a big part of our lives. My dad had some of his buddies come over the night before April Fools Day and had them help take the entire playset out of the ground and move it to one of their yards down the street. The next morning, he came and woke us up yelling that it had been stolen. As a 6 year old at the time, I cried. He didn't even tell us it was a joke until later that night.

I'll make a long story short by saying that I won a car our my school's after prom party. I was at the top of the bleachers. Celebrated a little bit too much when they called my name. Fell all the way down the bleachers. In front of 1600 people.

u/welikesex69 · 2 pointsr/BadDragon

For the mold: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LU4YFK6?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

For the toy: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CA5VY3U

For the vacuum pump: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071KZXVRR

Other supplies you'll need: vinyl gloves, cardboard and hot glue gun to make the mold box, paint mixing sticks, graduated measuring cups, disposable coffee cups, silicone or mica pigments, release agent (smooth on universal release agent), and a whatever you want as a model

Edit: if you have any other questions feel free to pm me

u/tangbang · 2 pointsr/goodyearwelt

Off the rack shoe trees probably aren't going to fit all the way to the end of the toe. None of mine do, at least. The only pair of shoe trees that fits the shoes perfectly are my Carmina forest lasted shoe trees, in my Carmina forest lasted shoes. You might be able to find a local woodworker who can try to get something like that going for you?

One idea that I have been toying with is to make my own shoe trees out of thermoplastic. There's stuff like this that can easily be molded into various shapes. I've played with some before. You can wait until it's not particularly hot to the touch, or wet to the touch (but not yet completely dry) before molding it. The idea is to stick that stuff into the toe of the shoe to get a mold for the front of the shoe. Then, seperately make a mold for the heel of the shoe. Then, whittle a piece of wood down until it fits well into the middle of the 2 pieces. I'd cut some grooves into the toe piece and the heel piece so the wood would fit nicely in the middle. I'd also cut some grooves along the length of the toe piece and the heel piece to allow a bit of air flow to the leather. It'd essentially make a lasted 3 piece shoe tree, like these from John Lobb. I haven't gotten around to trying it yet, though.

u/anomalous_cowherd · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

No, you can't melt silicon. First it can handle ridiculous temperatures, second you'd just get a goopy mess.

You need something like this

u/Brostafarian · 2 pointsr/GifRecipes

ah good catch. Do you have a preferred brand of food safe silicon molding? I found this guy but that's it

u/idk_lets_try_this · 2 pointsr/HelpMeFind

Sorry I was unable to find a mold like that, the closest thing was a D20 icecube mold but even that is out of stock.

I did however find thisA kit to make your own

Here is a video on how to do it. You can also make a 1 part mold but that wont last nearly as long. and will look less nice. If you follow the edges of the dodecahedron for the mold haves you will have a near perfect result.

u/saddestcitizen · 2 pointsr/functionalprint

This is what Smooth On makes for that. It's suggested you pull a vacuum so I haven't tried it yet.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EOA25X2/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_10?smid=A14PXI2GJIO87&psc=1

u/Submariner876 · 2 pointsr/lockpicking

You can make a comfortable holder for your lock using thermoplastic. It’s really inexpensive, super easy to use, very versatile and very forgiving. It comes in bags of plastic pellets that you can heat/melt using water from a kettle. Just add boiling water to the pellets and in a couple minutes they become soft and mouldable like clay. Form the plastic around the lock and when it cools you will have a custom made holder. Just search for “thermoplastic pellets” on Amazon. Here’s the type of plastic I’m talking about Thermoplastic Beads

And here’s a photo of a couple holders I made for a kik cylinder and a sparrows practice lock. Thermoplastic holders

u/bansheemarie · 2 pointsr/crafts

Hey there, basically you are going to need a clear epoxy resin- it comes in two parts and you mix only what you need right then. Lots of tutorials on the web for that. Here's a link to a popular one on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BM9LHRB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fnomDb01166D6

u/bluelacecocoon · 2 pointsr/DnDIY

here is the resin

here is the silicon

here is the dye

i'm a poor art student so i've gone kinda the cheaper route, other stuff you might need are popsicle sticks, styrofoam cups to make your molds, and glitter and whatsuch if you'd like to go that route. over all i put about $60ish into the stuff i've linked above. good luck dude!

(edit: formatting bc mobile :p)

u/CalliopesPlayList · 2 pointsr/PaintedRocks

If you like to dot, two things:
Buy some inexpensive ($6.99) dotting tools (like what is used for nail art) and then check out Rachel’s Rocks on YouTube. She does a number of great tutorials that are easy to follow and then adjust and make your own.

example tutorial for Rachel’s rocks on YouTube

amazon link to dotting tools

u/Cpt_Wolf · 1 pointr/sexover30

I don't know how polly plastics work, but the stuff used in clone-a-willy kits is called dental alginate, if that helps. It's super cheap online. If the polly plastic can melt to a point where it's pourable, but not super hot, perhaps you could cast a mold like that? If that doesn't work, I think that same company, smooth-on, sells different silicone mixes as well. That's a little more expensive though. Plus side is you get a ton of of it. Also, using silicone would make it an actual safe and functional sex toy.

u/bunchies · 1 pointr/sex

As other commenters have said, don't bother with clone-a-willy. But that doesn't mean all is lost! If you get this (or some other bag of alginate, you dont need the plaster) and this it's a little more complicated/you might need to practice casting something else first, but overall it works much better. I've tried both and it's definitely a better silicone, and for me the casting gave way better detail. All can feel free to PM for... detail😉 and some pointers I guess

u/aardvarkpaul13 · 1 pointr/maker

It looks like you are all ready done with them, and they look great.
I really like apoxy sculpt. This is really easy to use, has an long work time, and you can really smooth it out with wet fingers. dries and sticks great.
https://www.amazon.com/Apoxie-Sculpt-1-Lb-Natural/dp/B000V58DS0/ref=sr_1_5/141-7678837-0075305?ie=UTF8&qid=1524152792&sr=8-5&keywords=aves+apoxie+sculpt

u/artnik · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

Another good option for hand shaping parts is 2 part epoxy modelling compound, like Apoxie Sculpt. When it cures it's rock solid and very rigid so even thin parts are structurally sound. It's not the cheapest, but I love having it around for repairs and makes. It's the bomb. https://www.amazon.com/Apoxie-Sculpt-Natural-modeling-compound-x/dp/B000V58DS0

u/Rubenick · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Morhty demands:

u/mattiep9 · 1 pointr/405th

While I have no experience making prop guns, I have made prop swords using PVC fake-wood, which is very easy to cut and sand. I usually cut the general shape of the sword, then use a dremel to sand to a better shape. Once I am happy with the shape, I do detailing with Apoxie Sculpt, which becomes rock hard, but can make some very nice details.

However, I usually do a single piece construction, so more complex shapes like guns may need to be made separately and assembled. If you aren't happy with the detail on pepakura files, I would recommend trying to use Apoxie Sculpt to add the details once the model has been hardened.

u/DiceToMeetYou · 1 pointr/minipainting

Not sure if you want something entirely empty like OP's base, but I just finished a set of 12 Bones skeletons (there's probably a joke there). Anyway, I used some plain 1" round bases and Apoxie Sculpt to blend the hunk of plastic down smooth with the base. Some of them are propped up on rocks I sculpted if their existing base was too wide for the new base. They all came out looking pretty nice and it didn't take too much effort. I can grab some photos later if you like.

I'm also very new to this so do take this advice with a grain of salt, there are probably better solutions out there, but this worked for me.

u/f0k4ppl3 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I've had very good results with this stuff. Has a much longer sculpt time. Water soluble. Dries hard but with a stoney, chalky texture that makes it great for carving details if you need. Because it's water soluble, you can work it into the seams, then wipe off the excess with a cloth and get a perfect fill which doesn't need sanding.

Also, remember that you can always try stuff on scrap pieces. No need to guess how it will come out.

u/Blackboard_Monitor · 1 pointr/sculpting

Stupid good for modeling and so strong that 24hrs after I mixed it I sometimes carve it with a dremel, amazing modeling clay.

u/sleepcurse · 1 pointr/trees

Damn that sucks, is it a handle or does air actually have to travel thru it?

If it's just a handle I bet something like this would work
http://www.amazon.com/Apoxie-Sculpt-1-Lb-White/dp/B0013UDWXI/ref=pd_sim_201_12?ie=UTF8&dpID=41gn20MrtUL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1EXNH8K3Z8F6KFXHQF54

u/Kineticka · 1 pointr/cosplayprops

No problem at all!

That top section is just spare insulated electrical wire I had floating about, with those grey blobs formed out of Apoxie Sculpt. If you're not familiar with it, it's two-part epoxy clay that will harden to a rock a short time after you combine the two parts, so you can mold it to whatever shape you like and set it fairly quickly. I just slapped it around the wire and hoped for the best, but another option that might look neater is if you find rubber tubing just large enough to slide over the wire in those sections.

For the anchoring, I'm going to MacGuyver this, mostly because I'm having a brain fart and can't think of a search term for what I actually want, so let's start from the bottom of the construction. Get your bucket lid that you'll be using for the base. Epoxy (or screw, if you're feeling adventurous) a light bulb socket to the center -- this will provide that wide, stable base that I failed at when I was building mine. Scoop out a hollow in your styrofoam round large enough to make it sit around that socket, and cut a hole over the socket part. Glue the styrofoam to the bucket lid once you're sure everything lines up properly. We'll be adding the dowel next, but we need to see how long that dowel needs to be.

Take your mannequin head, and flip it upside down. You should see the hole in the bottom of the neck for conventional use. That will not be nearly deep enough. I speak from experience. If you're using a plastic one, you might need to drill to get past the stoppage at the end, if you're using styrofoam a long knife or screwdriver and some patience should work. Get all the way up into the head if you can, but at the very least get a few more inches to work with. Now take your dowel, and push it in as far as it will go. Mark that point on it, that's one end of the depth. Do the same into the socket under the foam. Measure to those marks and add them together, that is the total length of your dowel, cut it to that size.

The most important part here is getting a solid connection from the dowel into the socket. Epoxy should be strong enough, but whatever you use, make sure that the dowel is not moving, it will only end in tears. Once that's solid, cut a hole in the bottom of your (already colored) bucket and slide it down the dowel, attach to the foam round with epoxy. Volia. You have a solid anchor that's long enough to actually hold the head up. That should be able to handle bobbling around, if rotation becomes an issue and you don't expect to take the head back out, you can glue the head to the bottom of the bucket, but if removal might be needed, velcro should do the trick.

I hope that was clear enough!

Edit: Oh I'm a dumbass, you were probably asking about the part behind the wire at the top. That's actually part of the bucket I used and just painted to match, I went digging and found my old order for it. Not sure if that one in particular is still available, but as long as you have that little lip area where the lid connects, you should be fine.

u/Hawki007 · 1 pointr/Nerf

Sweet. Keep us up to date on the ammo counter! Get this, stuff works great =)

u/pennydox · 1 pointr/RWBY

It was originally the little plastic monster that came with the Alisa Ilyinichna Omela Nendoroid
I used an exacto knife to shave all the plastic parts off to make the right body shape, then took apoxy sculpt clay to make the body texture and spikes, then I sprayed Tamiya Grey Primer on top, then painted it black/white/red with Tamiya acrylic paints.
I hope this helps.

u/ByZeus · 1 pointr/Gunpla

there's two types of putty, basic putty for filling in tiny holes, gaps or panel lines. and the other is epoxy sculpting putty. this is the stuff for bigger jobs like adding custom details or redefining "parts". tamiya sells some and so do other brands, i personally use this

u/LH99 · 1 pointr/bloodbowl

More bang for your buck (compared to green stuff) with this epoxy sculpt

I mix up a little bit and press the magnets into it on the underside of the base. Keep these containers in a plastic bag for longterm storage tho.

u/Stankshadow · 1 pointr/ActionFigures

Aves is a "apoxy" clay. It air drys so you don't have to bake anything. It's not an epoxy it's an apoxy. Not sure if apoxy is a real word though.

u/kuqumi · 1 pointr/halloween

In 2011 I did a scary pumpkin head mask... I got a foam pumpkin at Michael's, carved a face in it, and made an opening at the bottom so I could wear it. I fastened a brimless baseball cap inside so it would fit securely. Then I put a piece of clear plastic inside the eyes at an angle, and mounted LED eyes inside the top of the mask, pointing down. Because of the plastic reflector, from the front the LED eyes looked like they were deep inside the mask. (same technique as the Terminator mask in this video)

This year I plan to revisit the concept, but with better carving. I will use some Apoxie to give the pumpkin some thickness near where it's carved. I'll put a closet push-light inside the forehead and run a wire out of the head so I can switch it on when I want, and I'll wear this mask directly on my face.

I'm planning to cut the mask into a face part and a jaw part, and fasten both parts to a morphsuit face stocking so the mask mouth moves with mine. It should be pretty unsettling.

u/Ashrooms · 1 pointr/OOAKDOLLS
u/QuillofNumenor · 1 pointr/ActionFigures

Oh yeah I should have mentioned that. I have this two-part sculpting epoxy (Aves, here: https://www.amazon.com/Aves-Apoxie-Sculpt-White-pound/dp/B0013UFM7M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523965655&sr=8-3&keywords=aves+apoxie+sculpt)

You take the two parts and smoosh them together like clay and roll and mix them until they're a uniform smoothness. I used about a nickel-sized amount of each for the Surfer head. So once it's mixed, I stuffed it into the empty cavity of the head, then placed the head onto the neck ball joint, letting the epoxy form a mold around the ball. I let it sit like that for a minute just to ensure a good mold, then took off the head again. I let it sit about 24 hours. The epoxy will harden and solidify in that time. After it was cured, I had a perfectly-molded socket for the ball joint on Surfer's neck.

You could do the same thing with Green Stuff or Sculpy as well, if you can't get Aves.

u/spaceghost_n_moltar · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013UFM7M/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yea that's it. I didn't realize they spelled it with an A

u/CaptainBenza · 1 pointr/Gunpla

The feet are indeed terrible, and so are the backs of the legs. The upside is that those parts are hollow because they're going to be seen the least, so you don't have to make it perfect. I gave up on making it perfect at least, too much work.

I use Milliput Superfine for most of it. It's suitable for large fillings. I then use some tamiya basic putty over any little cracks left over, that's the gray stuff, since it shrinks and is more suited for small fillings and since it's just easier.

u/Johnkree · 1 pointr/minipainting

I'm assembling Skitarii from Warhammer 40k atm, and I'm really struggling with liquid greenstuff. It's total crap.

While glueing I pressed the edges together and it looked nice. There even came a bit melted plastic out of the line, so I sanded it down but there is still a very small visible gap.

The thing is, it is really distracting because it goes across the cloak of the mini... Would Milliput work to get a smooth surface?

​

https://www.amazon.de/Milliput-Epoxy-Putty-superfein-weiß/dp/B002CNEWAM/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys&ie=UTF8&qid=1537424527&sr=1-1&keywords=miliput

is this the right one?

u/96fauj · 1 pointr/fixit

I'm going to be buying one of two different epoxy fillers.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Milliput-Epoxy-Putty-Superfine-White/dp/B002CNEWAM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480860814&sr=8-1&keywords=white+epoxy

or

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004NB3OMS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE

I've been reccomended the second one but the issue is that it means I'll have to paint it since it's a browny tan colour cure. Therefore might end up buying the white Milliput instead.

u/FlyingShepherd · 1 pointr/modelmakers

This is Milliput Superfine White, http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002CNEWAM

u/almightywhacko · 1 pointr/transformers

You should look for a product called Magic Sculpt for protoyping parts.

It is a 2-part polymer clay that can be kept wet and worked for a week, dries hard as stone without shrinking, can be sanded, drilled, bult-on, glued, etc. It is very fine-grained as well.

It is wonderful for making one-off parts or making parts that will later be used to create a mold.

u/origtwyg · 1 pointr/CR10

Yes, for pieces like this I use either wood epoxy to fill the gaps, or when working with large gaps (and have plenty of curing time, say 24 hours) I use Magic Sculpt.

​

I prefer the latter for a number of reasons, though to go back to your original gap question do keep in mind that things like humidity and temperature can negatively affect a print dimensions, especially in my experience with PLAs that have been "left out" too long from the first opening of the package. I've also found different spools to be different dimensions as well, though we're talking here about tiny amounts, say .5 mm difference. Bigger than that and I'd start to look at making sure the printer is calibrated as much as possible.

u/ice_09 · 1 pointr/KingdomDeath

That makes sense. I was looking into this. I would like to find something a little easier though. That low melting point plastic seems like a good idea as well.

u/RubensAss · 1 pointr/UCSD

Well, you could make a resin or clay mold and fill it up with plastic/metal (as in, use resin or clay w/old key to make a mold, filling it up with this stuff). Or you could use a 3D printer. But it's probably too much trouble.

u/stevethejedi · 1 pointr/Overwatch

I used Smooth-On Smooth-Cast 300 and 305, it's great stuff but the cost really adds up: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BN7G0E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_lLMuzbE6RRXQF

u/RogueNPC · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Depends what quality you want. If you just want to start with something basic and easy:

OOMOO 30 Silicone Mold Making Rubber

Smooth-Cast 300 Liquid Plastic Compound

Sargent Art Plastilina Modeling Clay, 2-Pound, White (for making 2 part molds)

Legos or $-Store tupperware for mold walls. About $50-60. It's not super high quality, but it does work.

u/TherionSaysWhat · 1 pointr/ResinCasting

I like Oom-Moo 30 and SmoothCast or CastingClear for starters. That is if you are going for repeatable results.

You could also simply start with some plaster of paris or algaenate from your local art supply for single casts.

Good luck and post pics of your experience!

u/KegelFairy · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

That's the stuff I use! I ended up going with the original version with wall clips rather than the Open Lock version. Then, we used a mold-making kit to mass-produce them out of plastic. I haven't painted them all yet, but for the ones I have I sprayed the standard gray primer and then dry-brushed with a lighter gray to get a really easy, cool look.

Here's the current state of affairs: https://imgur.com/a/ZAmYH

u/Greellx · 1 pointr/ageofsigmar

So I'll give my two cents on dental plaster ---it's brittle (not terribly so, but, it can chip and/or shatter if dropped) -- that said, it's perfect for use with terrain, especially stone / rocks.

​

Pros:

Easy to mix

Easy to use

​

Cons:

More fragile

Heavy compared to resin.

​

​

Personally, I prefer resin, but it takes a little more practice to get decent at pouring it---but it's pretty exact, follow the measurements, and pour!

​

Also, use a mold release product

​

https://www.amazon.com/Smooth-Universal-Mold-Release-fl/dp/B004BNHLOK/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=mold+release&qid=1556573115&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

And before spraying that, I often will also use talcum powder (baby powder) and a brush to brush it out---this helps the flow of resin into those hard-to-reach places.

u/thicklypadded · 1 pointr/chastity

You can make it effectively solid, which will make it a lot more comfortable on your skin, especially if you want to wear for a while. Look for a product called instamorph. It's basically just little plastic beads that melt when put in hot water.

Melt a bunch of it and roll it into a cylinder about the diameter of a pencil. This way you can easily remelt it if necessary. Also put your ring in hot water so that it warms up a bit. Once both are good and hot, work the instamorph liberally into the groove; you want to have it spilling a little out of the groove. Be sure to push plastic into any air gaps.

Do one side, then melt more plastic and do the other side. Then put the whole thing in cold water for a while to cool.

All that's left now is to sand away the excess plastic and then polish it smooth. Start with a coarse grit, like 60 or 80, and get it pretty close to the shape you want. Then just use finer and finer grits to do your successive shaping and smoothing. A pack of different fine grits like this should be pretty good for what you need.

A few other thoughts:

  • Be sure to round the edges slightly.
  • Lay the sand paper on a flat surface and move the ring against the paper to get the front and back really flat and consistent.
  • Wrap some sand paper around something round to do the inside of the ring.
  • If your cage came with extra rings that you don't think you'd ever use, you can practice before committing to modifying the one that fits.

    I did this modification to my ring and it was like a whole different product. I couldn't go more than a day or so before my skin got pressed into the groove and became really tender. Now with a little lotion I don't have any problems down there from the ring.
u/Renz2LK · 1 pointr/cosplay

Use InstaMorph. It's a moldable plastic that I've used as fake fangs. You soak it in hot water, let the plastic become a little clear then scoop it out, and begin to mold it. Once cooled off, it will turn a solid white. If you don't like the shape, you can easily drop it back into the hot water and repeat the process. I used my coffee maker (without the coffee) to make a pot of hot water and it worked fine w/ that temperature.

u/coherent-rambling · 1 pointr/buildapc

You could modify your mouse with something like ShapeLock or Instamorph. It's a plastic called polycaprolactone which you can soften in near-boiling water and hand-mold into anything you want. When it cools, it turns into a hard, sturdy, paintable plastic.

u/aphrodite-walking · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

This item may not seem very fun but it's used to make something super fun and awesome! My family and I go all out on halloween and decorate our house so it looks awesome! The final touches of course are our costumes. This year I'm planning on making a full mouth piece of pointy teeth. I already have the material to make the teeth itself but I need this to make the mouth piece so they stay in my mouth. It basically makes dentures haha they will look sort of like these. Oh and it's $9.99 :) Sunday Funday

u/acr_vp · 1 pointr/specializedtools

This stuff is awesome for this exact use InstaMorph - Moldable Plastic - 6 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MFLU4Y/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_MknVDb38RJJWA

u/katechized · 1 pointr/sailormoon

Molding plastic is your friend.

u/bigchastity · 1 pointr/chastity

I had similar problems with my cage. I got a jar of InstaMorph and made a little cover for the back of the bar. Works perfectly. I also used the slightly bigger ring and threaded it through a piece of Food Grade Vinyl Tubing which both reduces the diameter, but more importantly, makes it non-skin, without being to grippy. If that makes sense.

u/sparhawk817 · 1 pointr/StonerEngineering

As this is just the chamber portion, I recommend getting a good chunk of a thermoplastic like (InstaMorph https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MFLU4Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_96RKzbBT7Z845)

Or you could maybe use a modelling clay. I would go with a cook gold colour or something, and then wrap a design around it, partially for strength, and partially for looks.

u/Phantom_Scarecrow · 1 pointr/cosplayprops

I bought 3 different ones this one actually shoots darts, so its mechanism is pretty sturdy. The one I used was [This] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005SICR6O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) cheapie. It has a working mechanism, but I didn't need it to function, so I only used the hammer, frizzen, backplate, and trigger guard, then modified them with thin, homemade Worbla. (To make metal-smooth Worbla, mix [Instamorph] (https://smile.amazon.com/InstaMorph-Moldable-Plastic-6-oz/dp/B004MFLU4Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1504898165&sr=8-2&keywords=instamorph+pellets) with a small amount of ordinary flour. Put it in a glass pan and heat it in an oven until the plastic gets soft, then carefully mix them together and knead until evenly combined. It's smoother than real Worbla, which uses wood fibers as a filler, and a LOT cheaper!)

u/xtremepado · 1 pointr/howto

You could make a custom extension using a moldable thermoplastic like instamorph. You soften the plastic with a hair dryer or by submerging it in boiling water and then you can form it into whatever shape you like.

Just be sure it's up to code, as other people in this thread have mentioned.

u/ezincuntroll · 1 pointr/KingdomDeath

Get some water-moldable plastic like this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/InstaMorph-Moldable-Plastic-6-oz/dp/B004MFLU4Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=Hot+water+plastic+mold&qid=1554581119&s=gateway&sr=8-6




Mold some face bases, and pour a resin of your choice in. You can cut up the bases to form larger shapes or sections to glue onto big bases. The results look pretty good with a little green stuff and paint

u/AdjustableCynic · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Nice! I did the whole thing at 250%, and yes, the ribs were terrible. I ended up using a spray lacquer in several coats on them, and they were still fragile... I also used some of this with the black color pellets to match my Black PLA, to reinforce some areas like the knees and the neck joint where it connects to the head.

u/pianomancuber · 1 pointr/Cubers

Amazon would be just fine.

u/white_kitty · 1 pointr/AdviceAnimals

For you or anyone else that may be considering trying it, first buy extra mold making powder. We used this, Its cheap and changed colors when it was ready. We tossed out the tube after the first try and filled a bowl with mold goo instead, which was way easier to stick his dick in. Use a cock ring to stay hard and use slightly cooler water to make the mold set up quicker. Its going to be messy so I recommend doing it in a bathroom but the mold peels off easily so don't worry about ruining the floor or any tools. Its a fun thing to do together C; I got the glow in the dark viberator. Its actually a pretty nice toy. I got mine from adamandeve.com which always has huge deals like free shipping and 50% off with a quick google search.

u/NooMoahk · 1 pointr/todayilearned

I found this stuff for making molds I've never used silicone for anything other than sealing an aquarium and some doorm so I don't know a whole lot about it. There are a few different kinds of silicone. Which kind is best depends on what you want to do with it.

u/pudtittles · 1 pointr/restoringdick

That's bad ass, thanks for the tip. A lot cleaner then what I've been doing. I've been using the roll from an ace bandage cut to length and wrapping it in tape. It does the job, but it can bend and warp, so it's annoying.

Edit: Are there varieties? Easy enough to buy just by googling? This Stuff?

u/restoration-elz · 1 pointr/restoringdick

Yep, I experienced the same problems as well with the tape and wrapping so I experimented with all different soft and hard materials thinking that soft materials would be more comfortable as I would sometimes get pinches etc. But I think the pinching actually comes from the movement in the soft material creating mini creases in the skin which then pinches over time. Also before taping at the start, I would make sure to unroll any creases in the skin but would still get pinches until I custom moulded my own size and shape ring.

Edit: Yes there are all different brands but the link you posted is exactly the tub I bought haha. https://smile.amazon.com/Thermomorph-Moldable-Plastic-Pellets-Ounce/dp/B00D3LAZ9O?sa-no-redirect=1

u/lutherdriggers · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I've looked into things a bit more and now I think I will try thermopellets before 3D printing something.

u/FooFatFighters · 1 pointr/pebble

Has anyone tried to use silicone rubber to fix this? Would probably require someone making a mold from an intact Pebble 2 out of Sugru or a 3D printer then pouring the silicone rubber material into the mold. The only thing is that I'm not sure how you could 'glue' the new buttons onto the side of the watch. Here's the link to the silicone material: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00EOA25X2/

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/PourPainting

I’m glad it’s staying shiny! I buy my resin on amazon: Clear Casting and Coating Epoxy Resin - 16 Ounce Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BM9LHRB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_qqqmCoR7iGUkh

It’s an easy 1:1 mixture, the hardest part is keeping hair/animals/fingers away from it while it cures!

u/Xero64 · 1 pointr/LARP

Sure thing. So first thing I did was go outside and find some Rocks. Probably the hardest part. Had to find one with a flat bottom that I liked. I then make a mold out of it using Silicon Smooth-on stuff.


After I had the mold I built the harness which is just the Flickering LED attached to a CR2032 Holder, a 150 resistor, and a Switch. Ill update the imgur album with pics of the process when im not making50 more of these.

After building the harness I mixed the resin One I used with some dye and poured it in. then I built a little holder to hold the harness just out of the resin and let it dry for 8 hours. Then bam 1 soul stone is made. You should have enough mold to make about 5 molds of different stones pending on size. Let me know if you have any other questions.