(Part 2) Best security & surveillance accessories according to redditors
We found 926 Reddit comments discussing the best security & surveillance accessories. We ranked the 311 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
30$ Infrared illuminator works perfectly (guardian and tracking) for Quest in pitch black room.
edit: amazon link.
Wyze cams are very cheap and reliable as well as highly reccomended. There's a r/wyzecam, because of course there is, LOL...
Wyze Cams are incredibly affordable:
Pan & Zoom model $37.98
Wyze Cam V2 $25.98 plus 20% off now
The cameras are made for indoor use only use only, however can be mounted outside with a skin purchased separately. Both models have birdhouse skins (links below) but they're not as invisible as the ideas posted on the Wyze forum and subreddit.
I also came across this great post on the Wyze Cam Forum to add an extra layer of protection againdt the elements using a trimmed balloon. Lots of ideas for hiding in plain sight.
Pan & Zoom - $13.99
Wyze Cam V2 Birdhouse Suction Cup Mount $12.99 / 1 or $18.99 / 2
I hope this helps!
From what Pre users have said, they use a 2.1x5.5mm DC plug, so if that is the case then either of those links will work. Personally, I'll be getting white ones so that they don't stand out as much on my walls.
This company has multiple sizes:
6 foot: http://www.amazon.com/Hanvex-2-1mm-5-5mm-Extension-Adapter/dp/B00JDTY61S/
12 foot: http://www.amazon.com/Hanvex-2-1mm-5-5mm-Extension-Adapter/dp/B00JDTZ26G/
20 foot: http://www.amazon.com/Hanvex-2-1mm-5-5mm-Extension-Adapter/dp/B00JDU4HYS/
I used Tendelux 120ft IR Illuminator (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0771GQMPT/), the same IR illuminator from this YouTube video. It immediately recognized the room (which I had previously configured with the lights on) and tracking is great. To my human eyes, it appears as just 6 very dim red LEDs and the room is totally dark.
I enjoy using VR in the dark mainly because I get no light through the nosehole, and it's also nice for using it in bed and not having to turn the light off afterwards.
I'm currently typing this comment at my PC, but my monitor is off and I'm viewing the display using Virtual Desktop on my Quest. So I can use my PC in complete darkness.
Call the police.
IANAL. Backyards are not typically covered under the "reasonable expectation of privacy" which governs photography. However, the drone flybys are becoming a nuisance and you probably have some rights in that regard.
Or, grab something like this Infrared spotlight and aim it at the drone whenever it flies by. The light isn't visible to the naked eye, but the digital camera in the drone will probably see it as a stupid bright light which will wash out the picture.
what i use
This is what I got and works for me: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WO99GRI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00
Says 2.1x5.5mm
This is the line pull I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026TA6WK
along with this cable lubricant: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WTN3I0
Absolutely run the cables before committing the concrete. Also seal the PVC conduit joins with PVC cement, otherwise they will eventually become waterlogged. If you haven't already purchased the Cat6, I recommend shielded outdoor-rated direct-burial cable, like this.
I also suggest running some low-voltage cables along with the Cat6, so you can power external IR illuminators like these, which are way better than the IR LEDs in the cameras, and also avoid insects, fog, and dust from triggering motion alerts at night.
Good luck!
That one on amazon you found looks really bad to be honest. When something breaks you'll have trouble finding a replacement, the radio is proprietary and will never work with anything else, it's got tons of plastic parts, and the battery is probably crap. Even if I'm completely wrong about it and it isn't garbage, there's no way it's worth $450, since you can actually get a pretty decent set up with that much.
There aren't going to be many good full kit options out there. The only one even worth considering is the eachine wizard, and even that is dubious at best. Instead you'll want to buy the radio, goggles, and then a BNF (bind and fly) drone all separately, which means you choose which receiver to put in it (usually when you buy it, you select which one when you add it to your cart and they'll put it in for you), and when you get it you just bind it to your radio.
For a radio, get the Taranis QX7. There are several options to consider, but you really can't go wrong with this, it's worth every penny: https://www.amazon.com/Frsky-Taranis-Transmitter-Racing-Drones/dp/B06XQWQ7C3/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1510987554&sr=1-1&keywords=QX7
This is a FRSKY radio, which means when you're buying the drone, just select FRSKY version so you get the right receiver in it.
Check out the channel uavfutures, he reviews a lot of prebuilt stuff, as opposed to other channels which review individual components. He does really clickbaity titles which can be difficult to get through, but check out his playlists as they're a bit better organized.
For goggles, there are so many to consider across a huge price range. The big two "types" are box style vs compact style. Boxes are big and bulky, but also a lot cheaper. Usually under $100. Most compact goggles are way up in the $300-$500 range, but there are a handful like the eachine EV100 and F640 that manage to get that slick form factor in at just over $100. Here's UAVFutures' playlist on them: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLP0PoGwU8OPYW549moGE6OSj5qNa8vx67, but if you prefer written down with way more detail and comparisons, Oscarliang is a fantastic resource as well: https://oscarliang.com/fpv-goggles-review-fatshark-skyzone/
It's also worth noting, since you asked, that latency is not really going to be an issue as long as you're using fully analog 5.8GHZ, which is going to be basically anything you see on uavfutures. Latency is only a thing on digital, like those shitty wifi cameras that connect to your smartphone. There are a couple digital FPV systems worth using, but they're still very new and thus very expensive.
Field of view is very important. The more you see, the more awareness you have. However that's a property of the camera lens, not the goggles. You can also swap out the lens very easily if you want it wider or different. I personally use this lens which is branded for gopro, but they're all the same.
Field of view in goggles is different, it's the size of the image in front of you. Getting wider field of view in this case won't actually allow you to see more, it'll just be stretched. You don't want to go too small or it'll be hard to see, but you also don't want to go too large or you'll have to move your eyes around the screen to focus on different things. Not too many goggles go outside of either extreme, so you probably won't need to worry about this part.
For the drone itself, again, UAVFutures. He reviews a ton. Just watch through a bunch of them and see which one catches your eye: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLP0PoGwU8OPaYMlsaWxSg7xr7xZXbxhf1
Ok I’m not 100% on how to use them but have read of others doing so on r/legaladvice
If there’s red at night then it has infrared night vision,
r/homedefense might have some info on them. Something like this pointed straight at the cameras creates a flare so they’re unable to see with them, unsure if it works the same during the day https://www.amazon.com/CMVision-IR200-Outdoor-Illuminator-Position-Adjustment/dp/B004V9Z7ZY
https://www.amazon.com/YRXC-Illuminator-Infrared-Security-Cameras/dp/B07Q86153D
It seems to be sold out, but there are many similar brands out there.
They are pretty long but not super long. I would recommend buying an extension cord, or a pair of these which is what I did.
I had it at roughly 4 ft off the ground aimed parallel to the ground this seemed to give the best result.
I wanted to give some information on my testing using IR transmitters to create a play space. I bought the "80ft" https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075ZYG89D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 transmitter and attempted to use it to create a full size 25x25 foot play space.
It will let you do that you can get a full 25x25 foot play space however it's only front facing. The issue is when you turn your back to the transmitter it doesn't see enough to continue tracking and will drop you out of the experience you are in. If you limit yourself to about 10x10 feet then you can get 360 degree tracking (as it can see enough when you back is turned to keep tracking). It seems like I might be able to grab some spare cellphone flashes on the back side to get a full 25x25 foot play space. It seems reasonable that the "200ft" transmitter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0771HSGH4/ref=emc_b_5_i should be able to give you a full 25x25 foot 360 degree playspace.
After I mounted the camera at about 6 feet on the wall... everything is better. It might be just that it was too close to the desk surface, maybe seeing my rift ir's in reflection off the top of the table, i would see a small drift sometimes. After mounting on wall, tracking is rock solid. With such rock-steady tracking, I do not bee-bop all over the place. Loving the Rift even more. I got the mount from amazon, fits perfectly.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009AOWF50/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Good on you for posting this guide! I've been meaning to post my method of doing it but this works the same. However:
Where did you get $40 from? Did you have to buy a new soldering kit as well?
Also I would HIGHLY recommend anyone doing this mod using pigtail adapters instead of hardwiring the AC adapter directly into the kinect that way if you ever need to move it or if the AC Adapter goes out you don't have to re-do the entire mod/splice a new adapter in there.
Here's a link to the adapters:Amazon I bought a pack of 10 similar to this one.
Amazon sells a PSU that works without any modification: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018G3ABWY/ref=cm_sw_su_dp
You could try putting up a IR Illuminator light pointing in the direction the cam is looking to get extra IR light for the cam night vision to use
12W LED IR Illuminator 90 Degree Wide Angle 6-LEDs IR Infrared Light for Security PI CCTV Cameras https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q86153D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pF.HDb3BQQ937
There are many on Amazon, it's the 850nm ir you want I belive
My idea for the moment is to combine this 200ft tendelux
https://www.amazon.com/Tendelux-Illuminator-BI18-Outdoor-Security/dp/B0771HSGH4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=IR+floodlight&qid=1559155243&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
With this DC-DC coverter for my ebike battery
https://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/dc-dc-converters/dc-12v20w.html
And have a mobile IR light station that I can take anywhere I ride.
And also make for a quick get away if things ever get hairy.
Looks like everything should be plug and play for me in this setup.
Special thank you to the crew at Tiny Whoop who consistently provide excellent customer and community support even though, someone at fulfillment may be a little colorblind hehehe. Without you guys and /u/JessePFPV this sub probably wouldn't exist!
 
24K Magic
Frame - Cockroach
Canopy - Tiny Whoop Razor skin 1of1 by Ben@TW!
Flight Controller - FuriousFPV AcroWhoop v2 FrSky
Motors - NewBeeDrone BDR Gold Edition 19,700 KV
Props - Rakon Heli Tri Blade
Power - Power Whoop 2.0 JST-PH
VTx- Crazepony 700TVL AIO Camera Detachable
Support Mods - Clear rubberbands to hide motor wires, 3M VHB tape for VTx mounting, dab of hot glue for Camera mounting
 
Dry weight = 19 grams flat
 
4+ minutes of flight time with Crazepony 230mah LiHV batteries and Crazepony 260mah/short LiHV
 
P.S. My kids thank you for all the candy!
 
SIM&NAT Male DC 2.1mm x 5.5mm Wire Power Pigtails Adapter Barrel Plug Socket Cables for CCTV Security Camera, DVR, Car Rearview Monitor System Video, LED Strip Light, Surveillance (20 inch / 50 cm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GPL8MVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eeHMzbZ5K8BHP I would use a kit like these and a terminal block to break out the 5v lines. After that just make sure you get the red lines to positive and you should be good to go!
Just to provide another cheap option, I used these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009AOWF50
Works perfectly.
I used a CCTV camera style mount that I stuck to the ceiling. You can either screw them in or even just use 3M command strips to hold them up.
I used these for example:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B005H1W4LA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hi there,
I'm wondering how many of you have successfully resolved your heating issues on the MPMD. I've upgraded the power supply to this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018G3ABWY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), and it's certainly made the bed heat a little more quickly. However, I'm still seeing a lot of fluctuation from the bed and the hot end. I don't care about the bed too much, but +-10 degrees constantly on the hot end is... not ideal.
I've got the v43 firmware (got this as a graduation gift, and that was the firmware it came with)...
What am I missing?
I've got 3 or 4 of the Winkeyes AC 100-240V to DC 12V 10A Switching Power Supply Adapter from Amazon
that I use with my MP Mini Delta's and Select Mini's V1/V2
There is no harm in using a higher amperage power supply. The printer will only take what it needs.
They're LED lights like this one. Also Flossy is good.
YES I did! I bought THESE as replacement power adapters. These have only a 6ft power cable, so I also bought two of THESE to extend them out another 20ft.
I also bought 2 of THESE which allows me to turn them on or off without having find plug behind furniture...
Hope this helps...
I havent found any great option for both sniping and cqb. I picked up a few different lenses and even sanded my runcam 2 housing to fit an adjustable lens. What I found out, it that it is easier and almost cheaper to get a cheap $25-35 1080p 60fps Chinese action cam for cqb, and got a $10 CCTV lens from Amazon.
uxcell Replacement Black CCTV Box Camera 25mm Focal Length Board Lens F1.2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N3ZPTE6?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
So the lens you'd be looking for is a ##mm, 1/3” m12 lens. (##mm: higher ## = more zoom, lower = less zoom). You will also probably require a 6.5mm IR filter, otherwise your quality will be purple and fuzzy, due to the lack of an IR filter.
Amazon. It was fairly inexpensive and they seem to be working out great. I have two cameras; both using these covers and mounts.
Link: Aobelieve Outdoor Metal Wall Mount and Weather-Resistant Silicone Birdhouse Cover for Wyze Cam Pan Camera (Black, 1 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L7S24QB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GG5FDbA3PD6JP
Here is the link you requested and a comparison as well.
https://imgur.com/a/I0Fn5go
https://www.amazon.com/Tendelux-Illuminator-BI18-Outdoor-Security/dp/B0771HSGH4/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp?keywords=150ft+IR+Illuminator&pd_rd_i=B0771HSGH4&pd_rd_r=3a4d405d-a3af-4945-b635-db0b748d438c&pd_rd_w=F38hL&pd_rd_wg=0eUtB&pf_rd_p=a6d018ad-f20b-46c9-8920-433972c7d9b7&pf_rd_r=XWT2CSX75CN0K4JEPSWP
Heads up, this does not include a power adapter to plug it into your wall. Amazon does sell them packaged with adapters for another $10-12 though, if you poke around.
Edit: Here’s the one I use, with power adapter. I needed a bigger one for a larger space. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0771GQMPT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_E-8JDbJ8E3XVF
They seem to be. You could use 2-3 on some kind of ball camera mount and then additional strips down the cable at intervals. Would be unlikely that you would lose them all at once. USB cameras are pretty durable anyways.
The light strip comes with a bare-wire end and a barrel-connector end. I've never seen a Molex-to-barrel-connector adapter though.
There are a few different ways to use a strip like this in a PC. I always solder a Molex connector onto the bare-wire end, so that's one option. If you want to go that route remember that on Molex, the YELLOW wire is 12V, not the red one.
You could also wire one of these to your Molex and plug it into the other end. Soldering would also be needed there though.
If soldering's isn't your thing I could easily make one for you.
It is in an enclosure. http://www.amazon.com/Dropcam-Outdoor-Enclosure-Guaranteed-Weatherproof/dp/B00Q4OSXA0/
I am thinking of something like this one, but black.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009AOWF50/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3VBEUAH5RUKPT&coliid=IESP45MQ93GDW
Oh, so something like this? and this ?
They don't make an outdoor camera, but I have seen people post that they fit in the Nest Cam outdoor mounts. They were a lot more popular before the Nest outdoor cam was released.
Something like this:
Dropcases Nest Cam & Dropcam Pro Case Outdoor Enclosure, 3.9 by 2.1-Inches, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q4OSXA0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lxfNzbPMGRMHM
I install a lot of these for companies and we always run POE. Run a Cat6 cable to each location and buy a small (4 or 5 port)POE switch and Ethernet to USB adapter on Amazon. This will likely be cheaper and less invasive than having an Electrician run new outlets.
POE switch>USB Adapter>Nestcam.
Also they make outdoor covers for the nestcams so they are secure and safe from weather
https://www.amazon.com/Dropcases-Dropcam-Outdoor-Enclosure-2-1-Inches/dp/B00Q4OSXA0/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1479837211&sr=8-12&keywords=nest+cam+cover
Agreed. Meanwhile:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I98HZH0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I got an infrared light from amazon that works too.
I picked up the same stuff and to my surprise it would not stick to the rubber bottom of the DK2 camera. Almost like it was made of teflon. I ended getting this wall mount from amazon. It worked fine but I was still too close to the camera so I picked up a cheap 1' tripod from bestbuy and setting it to the far left of my desk behind my TV and its been working fine.
I am new to fish finders, but I have the garmin in my kayak and like it so far. This is how I mounted it, and links to the power pack and accessories I used. There are larger power banks but the 6000mah, was perfect for my needs.
https://imgur.com/a/TeAAv5y
Battery
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MF70BPU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Fuse (I cut the original one off and soldered in the blade sytle)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XK4RNB3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cable gland set I used for the pelican box
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077R1RT2T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
5.5mm plugs to soldered to the garmin cable to plug directly into the battery pack.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GPL8MVG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Pelican Case
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001LZ5HDI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I used these ones. They come in a two pack for $12.99. Convenient for a two sensor setup like mine.
For night time maybe install an IR spotlight to illuminate your porch area? Something like this maybe.
https://www.amazon.com/CMVision-IR200-Outdoor-Illuminator-Position-Adjustment/dp/B004V9Z7ZY
Or you could change the porch light switch to be on a timer or controlled by a smart hub and timed that way.
During the day it's gonna be tough because your dealing with the property of all cameras which don't do well with foreground subjects that area dark compared to a bright background, besides relocating the camera I don't have any ideas for that problem.
Something like this?
My comment was really targeted toward OpenHAB. If you're running Wink, I think you'd be better off getting one of these GoControl/Linear GD00Z-4 Z-Wave Garage Door Opener. Amazon reviews are pretty solid and Home Depot was selling them for use with Wink for a while. I believe it comes with a tilt sensor, which is probably easier to use than boogering a regular door sensor on like I did. Probably a solid bet. I would have bought one of these if OpenHAB supported the z-wave barrier class.
As far as the MIMOLite... I can't tell you for sure as I run OpenHAB, but it looks like it should work according to these links: post in reddit /r/homeautomation and Amazon review
I'm using a Go Control / Nortek Controls / Linear WADWAZ-1 to sense my garage door. I snagged one of the WNK01-21KIT kits from Home Depot on sale.
I've also got a Honeywell Ademco 958 overhead door contact on my other door that should work as the door contact listed in fortrezz's diagram linked in my previous comment, if you wanted to sort of wire it.
For Wink, by the time you buy both the mimolite and the door contact (wired or z-wave) you might as well just buy the go controls device and get the benefit of secured z-wave barrier class.
Totally doable. But first, have you thought about the logistics of an EXTERNAL camera (because if you need weather resistantce, presumably it's outdoors)? How are you running power to it? How are you connecting it to a network?
That said, you basically have 2 options:
1 is probably more expensive in the long run, 2 is much more complex to set up, and requires an "always on" server.
not so much. Been using one of these Wyze Cam Pan Protective Case. I do have it outside but under a roof, so it isn't directly out where water can hit the top of it. There's quite a bit of rain around me and I think this thing has been doing well. Do note (if you care to wait) that according to the Wyze CEO (in a recent email) that they are planning on an outdoor model soon.
Your product - BV-Tech POE-I100 Single Port 19W PoE Injector
Fixed my issue. But now I have to get a non-frankensteined outlet cover.
I got these for my outlet outside on my entryway. But its operational for now.
Dropcases Nest Cam & Dropcam Pro Case Outdoor Enclosure
Nest Cam & Dropcam Pro Outdoor Ball Joint in Black
Hanvex HDCQ20W 20ft 20AWG 2.1mm x 5.5mm DC Plug Extension Cable for Power Adapter, White, For LED, CCTV, Car, Monitors, and more https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JDU4HYS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_otn.ybWP8R6ET
That should have the sire specs you need. I use this cable and it is the same as original.
also, as an option to not paint, there are several cases available on amazon, here is just one of them:
https://www.amazon.com/Aobelieve-Protective-Security-Mounting-Waterproof/dp/B07L7S24QB/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1549487277&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=wyze+camera+case&psc=1
Yes; I bought one from Amazon once - they refer to them as an "LED IR illuminator". LIFX also sells a bulb that illuminates in the IR range as well; this would give you the option of running it in normal or colored mode and then switching it over to IR at some point during the night.
Here's an example of an LED IR Illuminator (and this one is on sale today with a coupon!)
https://smile.amazon.com/YRXC-Illuminator-Infrared-Security-Cameras/dp/B07Q86153D/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=24YKTC5XHSWBQ&keywords=ir+illuminator&qid=1558617968&s=gateway&sprefix=IR+%2Caps%2C130&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1
Just a note - when you're looking at these, it's best to try to get one that comes with a matched power supply. Some don't come with an AC supply and if you buy the wrong adapter, you can end up shortening the life of your IR LEDs as they are sensitive to power fluctuations.
Hope this helps!
Throw this bad boy in your play space and you should be good.
https://www.amazon.com/Tendelux-Illuminator-BI8-Powerful-Infrared/dp/B0771GQMPT/
Same experience, I tried the one below and couldn't get it to focus
edit: It works! I really forcefully cranked it down hard with my fingers and was able to get it to focus
Vicdozia 2.5mm Replacement 170 Degree Wide Angle Camera DV Lens for Gopro HD Hero 1 2 SJCAM SJ4000 HS1177 FPV Runcam Swift Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015EE7G58/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_2yd4ybympEhXK
I got this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015EE7G58/ and adjusted the ring on it until it was focused.
Not sure if you screwed the adjustment ring all the way on, screwed the lens all the way in, and then unscrewed the lens and check your goggles until it's focused. Then bring the adjuster ring down until the lens is locked in place, focused.
This will probably work for you:
http://www.rfcontrolsystem.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=470&products_id=579
In the manual it doesn't fully tell you where to put the power leads. Hook it up like in the youtube video linked by the other guy. If the directions are backwards, reverse the motor. Red is + and black is -.
You will need a 12 V DC power supply. Often called wall warts or wall plugs. You can get one on Amazon, Fry's, Best Buy, etc. Here's the first one I found, I have no idea about whether it's a good brand or good price or anything. Read the reviews. It's a 2 Amp which exceeds the minimum I calculated earlier, but you could go for a 3 amp as well:
http://www.amazon.com/BINZET-Adapter-Regulated-Supply-Copper/dp/B00PJZQDDO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1457316150&sr=1-1&keywords=12+V+wall+plug
You will need the little plug that take DC power as input and outputs a red and black wire. Here's an example:
http://www.amazon.com/5-5mm-2-1mm-Female-Connector-Camera/dp/B005CMP434/ref=cm_cr_dp_asin_lnk
You will also need wire to go from the plug to the board, and since there are multiple points on the board to connect to +12V and 0V, you will need jumper wires to spread to multiple terminals like she does in the video. So you need something like this.
Finally to cut and strip the insulation from the wires you will need something like this.
Another thing to mention is that there are community made scripts that allow you to alter the parameters of this flood sensor. All the parameters and what they do are even in the manual for it but it doesn't seem to be a native feature on smartthings. I think you can natively on Fibaro's own hub device. I would also mention that this flood sensor is unique in that it can be hardwired for power and the battery would act as a backup. It's quite easy to do but does require drilling a hole in the top part of the case.
You can get something cheap like this https://www.amazon.com/TNTE-Adapter-Power-Supply-2-1mm/dp/B0169AY3JI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501307555&sr=8-2&keywords=dc+wall+wart
and either splice the wire to get the positive and negative or you could buy a bare wire adapter like this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QJAW9F4/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I would also mention that a key benefit of doing this is that it also enables the Fibaro flood sensor to act as another transmitter for your Z Wave network. It doesn't do this when on battery
Everything else is still stock for now, just added this Micro FPV cam: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072L21RPL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_ie6FzbGYDP6W2
I want to upgrade the motors but having trouble finding faster motors for the Syma X11. When I did this to my Hubsan H107 I was able to find motors at Micro Motor Warehouse but I didn't see any for the Syma. Think I might be able to just use any 6mm motors, I would just have to move the gears on to them.
Seems like if the heatsink is in your tent it wouldnt really do much unless it's right by your out take. But cheap enough I guess you can try
You just need a 12 V power supply and then get a female dc barrel connector for the red and green wires. It says it should be six amps.
Coming Data 12V 6A 72W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0194B7XT6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rk14ybZG2458D
DC Power Barrel Female https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CMP434/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Wl14ybHKGJZ4S
You'll need the following:
You can tell the Wyze Cam to detect any human movement and send an alert to your phone with a 14-second video clip.
Remotely, from your phone, you can watch a constant video and sound feed and you can review any video stored on the 32GB MicroSD. You can also set it to time-lapse mode, etc.
maybe something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Vicdozia-Replacement-Degree-Camera-Cameras/dp/B015EE7G58/
​
or this? https://www.amazon.com/Yohii-Fisheye-Megapixel-BL17820-5MP-Panoramic/dp/B07DJZJD8V/
true i'm running the Gemfan 2035 Props 4 Blades getting ALL-UP 88g with 450mha 2S, D1104 7500KV about to move to the DYS BE1102 10000KV for a bit more thrust ratio, worth checking out.
I wold look over this site for build help, has all was be helpful for finding proper combinations.
https://www.ecalc.ch/xcoptercalc.php?ecalc&lang=en
.
as for measurements the standoff length in the camera pod =~ 17mm to 17.5mm.
They will hold the camera, not relay pinch just holds nicely.
meant to hold something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Wolfwhoop-600TVL-Transmitter-Antenna-Quadcopter/dp/B06XJMQQ6Y
I wanted to go with an osd so i opted for https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072L21RPL
still works well just need a bit of hot glue to keep it form rotating on me.
Photo of setup
You can use any standard 1/4" camera mount. There's not really any shortage of options and styles.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X23I22/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A15ZKQC/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009AOWF50/
Those are called ‘tilt sensors ’
Another option is to use a simple contact but you’ll need a GPIO and that till drive up your costs
added links
words
[This will give you plenty of chances to get it right. ](http://www.SIM.com/&NAT Male DC 2.1mm x 5.5mm Wire Power Pigtails Adapter Barrel Plug Socket Cables for CCTV Security Camera, DVR, Car Rearview Monitor System Video, LED Strip Light, Surveillance (20 inch / 50 cm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GPL8MVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uNlNAb6SQM973)
Honeywell Ademco 958 Overhead Door Contacts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006M1I1W/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_rLSPwb43PGDHK
This would be the only thing that would have to be outside the rest could be inside
25mm zoom lens, which i plan on getting
12mm zoom lens, which i have now
you would need to get the ir filter, as the lens don't have them
Game play footage:
did a preview with the zoom lens in the top corner
My other views have some footage from the camera, now that i have it set on top of my optic
Ill have more footage this weekend form the mobius.
Okay, I will do so when I get home.
Crazepony just started selling the Tiny6 canopies on Amazon as a set of two for 8 dollars. I used buy the compete frame kits, I have quite the collection of tiny 6/7 frames hahahahaha.
Depending on your soldering skills, you can split the AIO VTX. I did that after ripping the antenna from a crazy crash and for practice. If you do decide to get another VTX, any split one works great. I like using this one. If you have extra hardware I usually cut a slit into one and use as a grommet for the antenna on the Tiny6/7 frame. u/kungfuremi might have photos.
The plugs come in different sizes, I know a 2.1 x 5.5mm male connector will fit the LCD controller I have.
I don't have this adapter, but it may work for you:
www.amazon.com/Tontec®-Supply-Adapter-Raspberry-Resolution/dp/B00LFBPL7K
it seems to be sold by the same people that I got the LCD controller from, and seems to be what Amazon calls "Frequently Bought Together" when you look at the Amazon LCD controller page:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JOY5PGM
however the cable length is about 110CM or 43.3 inches, thats a little short for VR usage, but you may not find many alternatives with a longer cable, and may have to make an extension cable, I used male and female power connectors like this:
www.amazon.com/5-5mm-2-1mm-Female-Connector-Camera/dp/B005CMP434
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058RLD9C
and some wire to give me about 10 foot of cable.
The barrel adapter? I usually see them called CCTV adapters
I use this one and have glued magnets in various places. It is cheap, convenient, and effective I think.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WO99GRI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These are what I use, although every now and then I have to plug into the regular outlet.
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Video data:
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Title|Turning a broken record player into a bluetooth speaker
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Description|In this video, I take my sister's broken record player, take out all the old parts, and put in the new bluetooth components. ⤶new parts list:⤶⤶female power jack: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QJAW9F4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1⤶⤶5v male power jack to usb:⤶https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MQO96U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1⤶⤶5v wall charger:⤶https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XUY0DFU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1⤶⤶aux cord (3.5mm): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078F718PM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1⤶⤶bluetooth receiver board: ⤶https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FU12QC8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1⤶⤶amplifier board: ⤶https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077MKQJW2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Woops, not sure where it went. Here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015EE7G58/
About a year ago I posted on Raspberry Pi projects how to on one I made. I used a Raspberry Pi. Here it is:
I solved your problem in my own application 3 different ways (I love redundancy, I love redundancy) that are completely different than the way you are looking to solve it. So I'm not going to answer your question, I'm going to answer mine and hope it applies to you.
My solution is on a Pi0W with a relay that shorts the switch on a hacked garage remote to open the door. This is also a single button trigger and I believe similar to your application. I heavily modified this solution to create a webpage that allow me to press a button on the screen to trigger the button. http://www.instructables.com/id/Raspberry-Pi-Garage-Door-Opener/
Solution #1 I have a webcam set up in my garage pointing at the garage door. This in itself is a full solution because I can always just look at the feed to monitor the door. But that's not enough for me. The model camera I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004P8K24W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 It has a url which publishes a snapshot of what the camera sees. This url can be embedded in the "button web page" to publish an image of the garage on the same page as the button <img src="url" />. 1-stop convenience. To turn the snapshot into meta-video I refresh the page every 3 seconds <meta http-equiv="refresh" content="3">. Essentially allowing me to press the button and watch the progress of the door. All in one place.
Solution #2: I picked up one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006M1I1W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 and again heavily modified this guide: http://www.ryansouthgate.com/2015/08/10/raspberry-pi-door-sensor/ To determine whether the door is open or closed. I run the script at boot in a terminal window and a bonus effect is I can effectively log the door status.
I incorporated this into my webpage by using this: https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=37&amp;t=58267
I added this code to the "open" condition to email me if the door is open: http://naelshiab.com/tutorial-send-email-python/
My modifications basically pulled all this information together into my "button web site" Action, view, and response on the door. Basically they were cut and paste and mostly done in HTML.
Finally not sure how new you are to this but there are other factors to get this all to work: OpenVPN - to hide everything behind my firewall and expose none of it to the internet. I vpn in and it's all as if I'm on my home network. no-ip - dynamic dns so I can resolve my vpn to a name rather than an IP which periodically changes.
I paid the equlivant of that for my lens, but I've since found them much cheaper http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00N3ZPTE6
I have two pan and scan cameras outside.
here is one I found on amazon with a large lens, I know you have to remove the lens on the pi camera but I do not believe the lens would screw directly into the module. I used an adapter because of two reasons, the tutorial i was following did and I wanted to keep pressure off the module because I was using a 175mm telescopic lens and I was worried about the torque pressure. I'll do some more research and either edit the post or reply to you, whichever comes first.
Hi.
Essentially I need to connect this to a simple constant current circuit (boost converter with LM317).
The input to the circuit (via the boost converter) is a screw terminal. So I'm trying to connect the power supply (see above link) to the circuit, via a screw terminal.
I'm essentially looking for a connector like this, but the correct size (5.5x2.5mm), and capable of handling 10A (I will be drawing just under 8A but am keen to derate the circuit wherever possible for safety and longevity of components).
Nice, they look comparable to the ones I bought for $12 each.
The arduino is right next to the servo, its the wall outlet that is far from them both. Moving that closer isn't really an option. Do you have any idea what size wire is standard in an extender like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WO99GRI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Also are there any alternatives? I don't know where I would find an extender that would specify a higher AWG.
Would simply switching to a 9v psu work?
Or you can just get this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I98HZH0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JDU4HYS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
They are actually a lot longer than you would ever need, if i got again i would buy some shorter.
I've got this one on order and it should arrive tomorrow. Found it from the wiki page.
Hey Master, I have a 25mm lens from here and I'll probably have to get an adapter or make my own so it can focus properly
Do you have a protective case similar to the one in the link below on it? I had the white one and it looked almost exactly like this at night. If not, possibly just a very near by source of reflection? This looks like IR back scatter and based on the case I used, they are pretty sensitive to it. I first painted the case flat black, which resolved the IR issue for me short term. I eventually replaced the case with black ones that do not have the flap on the sides, as that seems to be where the reflections was mostly coming from. If you do not have a case on it, look for anything that is close to either side of the camera that might be reflecting the IR light. If not, I suspect one of the IR LEDs is misaligned. Maybe a defective unit?
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GCX831T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Edit: to fix spelling and to say that I do NOT recommend the linked case, especially not the white one if you plan to use IR for night recording. Spray paint all flaked off in a couple of days.
https://amzn.com/B018G3ABWY
20$ plug and play, works great
Is there a way to test if the thermistor is shorting or any resources you'd recommend checking out?
My printer will randomly shut off, during some prints and go completely black. Then I'll have to replug the power adapter and flip the switch on and off a couple times to get it to boot back up.
I already got a replacement power supply recommended by the wiki (https://amzn.com/B018G3ABWY ) because I thought that was the issue at first, but no luck since it happens with that supply in, too.
What's weird is that I was able to complete one print with the original power supply, and I came back well after it had finished, and the machine was still on and everything.
Then, it started crapping out again. I even took off the side panel by the sd card slot and aimed a small fan at the board to give it some cooling in case the card was overheating (even though this isn't a modded machine), but that died mid-print, too.
I checked the board and didn't see and obvious shorts, so I'm thinking maybe it's the bed.
Tl;dr - Tried a lot of stuff, and I think it's the thermistor. Any way to check or recommended guides?