You can try carrying an air horn with you. While it doesnt cause direct physical harm it can really discombobulate a person if used directly in the persons face. This should give you enough time to stun then run, plus it draws attention from anybody in the area which is something all attackers try to avoid.
There are now Personal alarms you can purchase for self defense. I do not own one but from what I hear they are pretty effective.
https://www.amazon.com/Vigilant-PPS-22BL130dB-Personal-Flashlight-Keyring/dp/B005E04MK0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526660286&sr=8-1&keywords=self+defense+noise+maker

The thing attached to her gun is one of those anti-rape personal alarms. What she's threatening to do might be worse than getting shot.

ordered.
door alarm

door security guard

hook and eye qty 2

probably more than you need but that means you will have what you need.

Find someone to help someday on reddit or IRL. today you tomorrow me.

IANAL, but I work in digital forensics: Make sure Bluetooth is turned off; that is a huge entryway into your phone. Disabling automatic Wi-Fi connections will help.

Change the password on your home wi-fi network. Make sure your wi-fi has encryption (e.g. WPA2).

Consider getting an alarm system for your home; Amazon has some cheap ones you can install.. Maybe consider getting a camera, or at least a fake camera.

Check your home computer for any devices you don't recognize. A keylogger can look like anything that plugs into a USB port. It can also look like a USB adapter.

Backup any critical data to a cloud account, particularly anything that you're using to document your stalker. Save screenshots of his texts to you there.

Not mentioned here; but IMO any camera will put people on notice that there is a camera present. I think my neighbors think I'm a bit on the paranoid side; yet there have been no problems in my neighborhood for some time, and others nearby have had break ins, car burglaries; etc. I also have a back alley; and this keeps people away from the cars and garbage in the rear alley (last Christmas we had a car break in).

I don't however, recommend Ring Cameras; (doorbell is fine; but put another 4-5MP camera out there). Why? Better granularity /clarity in terms of visibility; esp at night. I recommend Reolink for their great night vision.

Imgur (B&W), but color is possible. IR in USE

Argus2: battery powered Color night vision: Imgur

I started with the excellent Reolink Argus 2's because of the exceptional night vision; have moved up to their 5MP dome camera for my rear driveway. I would recommend the Reolink PoE or Wifi (I am using 5ghz wifi with no problems) system. In the front, for appearances sake, I am using the ring doorbell2 with a solar powered (solar array is in a flower pot near the front door) Argus2 higher up. In the back, a Reolink 422W (vandal resistant dome) under the garage door frame. I'm very pleased.

I don't need an NVR; I'm using SD cards and my phone app and Windows client on my PC to run it.

Here is one such buy on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Surveillance-Supported-Security-Recording-RLK8-410B4/dp/B01AHXEHSU/ref=sr_1_5?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1543322543&sr=1-5&keywords=Reolink

Oh god, I have been dealing with this for a year. I know exactly what you are talking about. Some of my favorite dresses are missing. I found my bras with their straps all fucked with. She stole over 20 pairs of my underwear and crammed them under her bed covered in blood and other things. Jewelry missing. Everything rifled through and fucked with.

I put a lock on my door. When she discovered this, she waited til I was in the shower or even peeing and snuck back into my room and stole stuff so I literally have to lock my door whenever I leave my room for a glass of water. It's fucking ridiculous. So, one day I installed this bad boy. It has a "home" and "away" setting, and the "away" setting allows you to set the alarm and leave the room. Thirty seconds later it arms itself. And the thing is fucking loud. It shrieks until somebody inputs the four-digit passcode. Don't tell her that you're putting it on your door. Arm it, busy yourself with something else, and then watch her humiliate herself when she tries to sneak into your room again. Problem solved. I haven't had issues in months.

A basic simple door alarm would have helped.

No pi controller (don't get too techy)

Here - https://www.amazon.com/GetTen-Wireless-Burglar-Security-Magnetic/dp/B00U4N2EQ6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480055683&sr=8-3&keywords=door+alarm - you can get 10 alarms for $14 and sticky tape them to doors and windows. When the window opens? The alarm goes off if you didn't disarm it from the inside.

If you want something for a door you use often? This one is "fancy" and you can set it up for a PIN that you have to enter in less than a minute or it goes off (I want to say the ones I have on my rental properties are 15 seconds or all hell breaks loose with the alarm? It's not this one) https://www.amazon.com/GE-Deluxe-Wireless-Alarm-45117/dp/B0014A4JWU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480055683&sr=8-2&keywords=door+alarm

Just get one of these

I think it's easier to search for minor inconveniences and annoyances around your house, then search for ways to automate it away.

I gotta watch out with this site or I'll end up in the non-automated poorhouse, but it's awesome for product discovery
http://www.smarthomedb.com/products

Since you mentioned OpenHAB, the supported technologies list is a good place to start a wishlist too
http://www.openhab.org/features/supported-technologies.html

I'm using z-wave for most of my devices, so the product database is full of devices that are more likely to be compatible
https://github.com/openhab/openhab/blob/master/bundles/binding/org.openhab.binding.zwave/database/products.xml

This forum thread is also great for seeing what other people have gotten working
https://community.openhab.org/t/collection-of-working-z-wave-configs/1407

Personally, I've had great luck with these devices:

Aeon Labs Aeotec Z-Wave Z-Stick, Gen5 Z-Wave Plus - ZW090 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_cIbCwbYMNV0A4

2gig CT100 Z-Wave Programmable Thermostat (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CQ4V3Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_3IbCwbNFR9PQ6

MIMOLite - Z-wave Mulit-Input/Output Dry Contact Bridge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6RZ7MM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_uKbCwbF1ZBAXK

GE12722 Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control On/Off Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_oLbCwbQCFR48K

GoControl WNK01-21KIT Z-Wave Essentials Wink Enabled Security Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XUXYSWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_p5bCwbRY8TXQ5

I have an old ADT installed Safewatch pro 3000 alarm, and this ties it into OpenHAB really nicely.
http://www.alarmdecoder.com/

I'm comfortable pulling wires through the walls, so I use one of these for TTS playback from my OpenHAB box:
Elk ELK-70 Echo Speaker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XP1HZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_kZbCwb799TN4C

Driven by one of these:
Lepai LP-2020A+ Tripath TA2020 Class-T Hi-Fi Audio Amplifier with Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049P6OTI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_X0bCwb7MYGM47

A few scenarios might help with inspiration.

I have a sensor on my garage entry door that kicks on the laundry room light when the door is opened so I never enter a dark house with my hands full.

If it's 00:00 - 06:00 and any perimeter sensors on the alarm are tripped, all outside and main level lights come on at full brightness

I have a sensor on my garage door to send me an alert if it has been open for more than 15 minutes, and a camera and a mimolite to close it remotely

My wife works nights so I have a mimolite to disable the upstairs doorbell while she's sleeping during the day. It sends our phones alerts if the doorbell is rung while silenced

could you maybe buy a dc extension cord ?

https://www.amazon.com/Hanvex-HDCQ12-Adapter-Extension-Wireless/dp/B00FTFYH0U?ref=ast_p_ei

I have two wyze cams outside. They're both in outdoor housings with desiccant packs in them. They're under eves, which does help keep them from getting direct rain. This is the housing I have them in. They've worked flawlessly so far.

As for SD cards, I have a 64gb micro SD in each camera. Continuous recording has come in handy in the past few days as one of my cameras caught a car accident and officers were able to determine who was likely at fault.

I'd recommend a Sig Sauer P320 in 9mm - it's a striker-fired pistol that's easy to shoot in Full, Carry or Compact - but any similar set-up from Glock, S&W or Walther should work for you. Regardless of what you buy, though, I'd recommend a lockbox to store it securely. I prefer a mechanical lock like on this V-Line box - this is the model that I have.

Get him the stuff to build a obstacle avoiding robot.

You'll need:

• Ultrasonic sensor. I just use a plain old SainSmart HC-SR04 based one. $5 at Amazon
  
  
• Magician Chassis (best price vs performance imo, $15 at SparkFun). Alternatively, you can go DIY with a chassis, but that's more work and I'm not sure a 10 year old could do it on their won.
  
  
• DRV8835 Dual Motor Driver Carrier assuming you go with the above Magician chassis.
  
  
• (Optional) Servo to turn the sensor.
  
  
• I also recommend getting quality AA NiMH rechargeables. I highly recommend Sanyo/Panasonic Eneloops.
  
  See this: http://letsmakerobots.com/start for some info. Also check out the LMR site in general, lots of info.
  
  ---------
  
  edit:
  
  
  Another good project for him would be a weather station + clock. All of the sensors + RTC for this project can be bought very cheaply and it's a fun and practical project. You'll need a DHT11, a LCD (make sure you get one with a good library and uses I2C/SPI), and a some common RTC.
  
  I recommend checking out adafruit for the sensors since they have all the parts as well as tutorials for the parts.
  
  edit2:
  
  I assume you'll help him with certain things like soldering and such. Or at least teach him to solder. I learned soldering around his age.
  
  edit3:
  
  Totally forgot to add, keep an eye out for the 3Pi robot from Poluolu go on sale during Black Friday/Cyber Monday. Last year they had it for like $50. One of the best robot kits imo.

http://www.amazon.com/Vigilant-PPS22BL-Emergency-Personal-Keychain/dp/B005E04MK0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410292759&sr=8-1&keywords=defense+noise+maker

Does she have one of these? I recommend it.

They have relatively inexpensive kits on amazon. Though I would look into who has the best products in your price range, these types of kits are common.

If you want to tinker and set up a custom system look into the RaspberryPi. You get to choose your camera equipment and hard drive and everything else is run by the computer (the Pi itself). There are a few people with instructions on how they set theirs up. This video is what got me interested in the Rasberry Pi.

Hope this helps.

I love doberman vibration detectors! Sensitive and loud as hell. I have these on all of my windows along with dowels. A person could barely even think about getting a tool up in there let alone breaking the glass without setting one of them off. No way in hell you are getting in without making some serious racket!

https://www.amazon.com/Doberman-Security-SE-0106-4PK-Ultra-Slim-Window/dp/B010HWD65Q/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3TKTM6105QR3B&keywords=doberman+security&qid=1568056763&s=gateway&sprefix=doberma%2Caps%2C344&sr=8-1

Yep, Arduino is a great starter robot platform. It's got all the low-level I/O to make it work. A Raspberry Pi is not out of the question, but it's better at small form-factor general purpose computing.

If you can solder and have enough budget for it, the Zumo Platform is one of my favorites.

If you want to home-brew, you can get various shields and sensors and whatnot to make something on your own.

I advocate getting a genuine Arduino to start with for a variety of reasons. The biggest one is that the Arduino folks make a very high quality product, and you don't want to be chasing board issues on your first product. There are a whole slew of clones available that would probably be fine, but are much better for your 2nd or 3rd project once you're more comfortable with your programming and connection skills.

There's also more specialized boards like Pololu's A-Star line and the Ruggeduino that are great if you know why you want something like that. But for now, the stock Arduino Uno is probably a pretty safe bet.

Buy a personal alarm. They'll probably give a better size:loudness ratio than anything you can rig up.

By far my favorite IFTTT script is for my security camera at the front door of my house. When motion is detected, my camera system shoots out an email with a still image to the IFTTT email address. Basically, my wrists buzzes with a picture of who is at the front door every time someone walks up to my house. Technology is amazing.

FYI - this is the security system I bought off Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FM8UL4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&linkCode=as2

http://www.amazon.com/Hanvex-2-1mm-5-5mm-Extension-Adapter/dp/B00FTFYH0U

2 x APC AR3340 42U, 750x1200mm Cabinets

If you can fit the 48U version of these, go with 48U.

4 x APC AP8841 L6-30P vertical Rack PDUs

1 x APC SYA4K8RMP Symmetra LX 4kVA UPS, scalable to 8kVA

OR

1 x APC SYA8K16RMP Symmetra LX 8kVA UPS, scalable to 16kVA

Tell APC or the VAR to replace back plates so you have 2 to 4 L6-30R outlets.
Then tell them to fill each UPS with internal batteries and at least 2 power modules.
You must have 2 or more power modules to have a redundant solution.
Tell them to include a physical maintenance bypass in the quoted solution.
That is gonna add cost & professional installation labor, but you'll thank yourself later.
Ask your business & the landlord if you need to have an EPO in the room.
If you need an EPO, tell APC to add it to the solution.
(EPO = Emergency Power Off. A single panic button that kills everything in the equipment room.)

I know, an EPO sounds excessive. I don't know where you are or how big of a pain in the ass your Fire Marshals are in that area.
All I can tell you is you don't ever want to irritate a Fire Marshal. If regional code says to deploy an EPO, deploy the EPO.

DON'T FREAK OUT about the cost of those UPS units.
Read the literature, and I'll tell you why they are a good purchase, compared to something cheaper.

There are only two logical choices for a KVM solution. Well, three actually.

Option 1: Don't use a KVM, use the integrated out-of-band management solution included with your server or network device. If your server doesn't have an iLO or a DRAC or whatever they call their OOB management solution, you bought the wrong servers.

Option 2: Raritan (Expensive, but good) https://www.raritan.com/landing/java-support-available-for-kvm-solutions

Option 3: Aten (Less expensive, less good, but not garbage) https://www.aten.com/us/en/products/kvm/kvm-over-ip-switches/

WARNING: Make damned sure you choose a Raritan or Aten product offering that can be used Java-free. You do not want to buy a IP-KVM solution that requires Java to function.
I cannot express the importance of not using a Java based KVM strongly enough.
If you need a detailed explanation, just ask.

Invest in one of these:

Cage Nut Install Tool

Or Invest in a fat sack of these:

Rack Studs

Personally, I like steel cage nuts & screws holding my hardware in place. But the attraction of RackStuds is pretty obvious.

For that price range I would probably go with this Reolink set myself.

https://www.amazon.com/Security-4Megapixel-2560x1440-Surveillance-RLK8-410B4/dp/B01AHXEHSU

Or this NVR: https://reolink.com/product/rln8-410/
With a few of these nicer 5MP cameras: https://reolink.com/product/rlc-411/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014A4JWU/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1466991186&sr=1&keywords=alarm
real cheap door alarm

https://www.amazon.com/Doberman-Security-SE-0106-4PK-Ultra-Slim-Window/dp/B010HWD65Q/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1466991209&sr=1-2&keywords=window+alarm

real cheap window alarms

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-265DCCSEN-Dual-Function-Security/dp/B0002YUX8I/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1466991241&sr=1-2&keywords=buddy+bar

cheap door bar

https://www.amazon.com/Buddybar-10311-Door-Jammer/dp/B002BQ4VBU/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1466991241&sr=1-1&keywords=buddy+bar

better door bar

https://www.amazon.com/Cardinal-Gates-Door-Guardian-White/dp/B004RL1IMC/ref=sr_1_22?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1466991276&sr=1-22&keywords=door+lock

cheap extra door lock

https://www.amazon.com/SABRE-3---1-Pepper-Spray/dp/B0007VHXLG/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1466991342&sr=1-1&keywords=sabre+large

spray

https://www.amazon.com/Blink-Security-Wireless-Detection-Android/dp/B019S3ULQM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1466991363&sr=8-2&keywords=blink

relatively cheap cams

remember OP, rather be poor from spending money on all this shit than dead. layers count.

Sweet, thanks. Here's a link for all you European homelabbers. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rackstuds-Smart-Mounting-System-100-pack/dp/B00I348OD0/

Just finished setting up a new office. I think I may be in love with these guys:


Rackstuds Rack Mounting System, 100-pack
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I348OD0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_g6vKDbF5RZR4P

Rackstuds

Replace the timer switch with a Z-Wave switch like this one: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R

Then you can set up a timer in the Smart Lighting app so that whenever that switch if physically pressed, it will stay on for a certain amount of time.

Set up a sensor that monitors humidity like this one: https://www.amazon.com/ZOOZ-Z-Wave-Sensor-Temperature-Humidity/dp/B01AKSO80O

You'll also create a separate automation that activates the fan when that sensor reads above a certain humidity, and turns off when the humidity drops back down. That one is a little more complicated to setup, but not impossible.

I have recently gone down the road of automating my home. Here are some of my thoughts:

1. Try not to lock yourself into an eco-system.
   
2. Google Home and Amazon Echo have similar capabilities, if you already have an Amazon, echo and if you like it go with more Alexa devices. As /u/TwiceBakedTomato already mentioned, Google Home or Amazon Alexa are only going to be voice-control part of your home automation. Also, if you already have a pixel phone, you can check out google's home skills, by using the google assistant.
   
3. Do not overlook Zwave. You can get a USB Zwave hub like this, and you won't have a bunch of bulbs and switches crowding your wifi network.
   
4. Check out Home Assistant. It is not really a works out-of-the-box solution (I can't speak for hass.io), but it is not hard to setup and has a lot of resources online. The possibilities with it are quite endless. The kind of automations you can have are only limited by the inputs/components you have configured and your imagination :)
   You can check all the components Home Assistant supports here. I have it configured with my TP-Link bulbs, switches, LIFX Bulbs, ZWave sensors, Zwave switches, Schalge Smart Lock, Roomba, NAS, Nest Cameras, Thermostat, etc...
   
5. For the doorbell, I would suggest going with the Nest Doorbell, Keep in mind there is an extra $50/yr (or $30/yr for each extra Nest cam) for Nest to save 24x7 video feed. It has however performed better than my older Ring doorbell which kept failing. Make sure your apartment doorbell is wired.
   
6. If you are getting more cameras, there are 2 options, going for a solution like Nest or Arlo, where the video feed storage, notification, etc is all handled by an external company; or getting cheaper IP/ONVIF Cameras and using your own surveillance/storage solution. I personally have a mix of both. I have a few nest cameras and a few cheaper IP cameras that record to my NAS. This gives me the peace of mind that in case someone breaks into my home and steals my NAS as well, I can still depend on Nest to have the break-in recorded and stored on their servers. I can also see the feed from all my cameras in a single place in Home Assistant.
   
   
   Miscellaneous thoughts:
   
   
7. Replacing wall switches are really easy, so don't restrict yourself to using only smart plugs. Just keep the older switches and put them back when you're moving out of your rental. (Obviously take appropriate safety precautions when working with live electric wires). They are also better when you have a multi-bulb lamp (like a chandelier), instead of getting 3-5 smart bulbs to make the chandelier smart, you can just get a single smart-switch which controls it.
   
8. Look into a smart lock, they are easy to install and are great! I currently have this one.
   
9. You can setup Home Assistant in something as small as a raspberry pi. Or if you have a older laptop lying around you can easily install Home Assistant, an MQTT server, Grafana, etc on docker containers on the same system
   
10. If you like DIY stuff, instead of getting a $35-$60 multi sensor like this, you can easily put together one with a ESP8266 and sensors which would cost about $8-$10 in total.
    
11. Make sure you set a budget. It's very easy to start buying stuff and a lot of approx. $30 stuff will add up quickly :)
    
    Hope this wall of text helps you. Happy Automating!
    
    e: spelling

I found this for only $12

Looks like it’s the JC model but there are tons to suit your needs

I'm hoping someone will test it in a dark room, lit by an infrared "illuminator". I suspect that tracking will work fine, but I don't actually know. I've got this IR light sitting in my Amazon cart, but I would rather someone else spends their money first! : )

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D73XM24 ("JC Infrared Illuminator 4 Led High Power LED IR Array Illuminator IR Lamp Wide Angle for Night Vision CCTV and IP Camera")

Although I could return it pretty easily.... I'm tempted again.

Fine! I'll buy it. Jebus, so much peer pressure!

Ot you could do what I just did and get these Sensative z-wave strips :

Sensative Z-Wave Plus Ultra Thin Door/Window Contact Sensor Strips Guard, Good for Outdoor Installation https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWMTUI8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_r-w5Ab4BAAZHN

They are weatherproof, and good down to 20 below. They stick to even rough wood gates, and the batteries last 10 years. They don't need special smartthings smart apps because they show up as open/close sensors.

It looks like there are many that work, but this one is what we have.

Outdoor cam is in testing phase. Wyze says it's still on track for release before the end of the year. Be aware that the outdoor cam will certainly cost more. Wyze employees have said it will have battery/usb power options, PIR motion detection and have a wireless indoor hub. For direct information anyone can search for wyze employee posts on their outdoor cam roadmap thread.

You might want to just get a outdoor case for your cam. I have this one out in direct sun, rain, snow, no problems. Most protective case I've found after searching all over. If you can place your cam right under an overhang, I've seen many people say they do perfectly fine with no case.

You can get a battery operated system for your windows and doors that will set off an alarm. They're easy to use and give you a measure of comfort.

Something like this might scare them away.

ditto. the simplex hit the sweet spot for me in terms of something i can open very quickly, potentially in the dark, and potentially while my adrenaline is pumping. i bought this one and i've very happy with it. come pre-drilled with holes so i bolted it onto the bottom of my nightstand with carriage bolts. no way it's going anywhere without my nightstand.

I looked around at reviews and all of the electronic lock boxes are total and utter JUNK. They run batteries down, fail to unlock, lose solenoid function, and are otherwise totally unreliable.

I got a V-Line gun safe that has the dead reliable and totally mechanical Simplex lock. I bolted it to the nightstand.

I keep a gun, a magazine, and the key to the rifle safe in it.

No complaints and can be easily opened in the dark.

If I take the gun off for even a few seconds to change clothes, it goes in the box and gets locked up.

I think the most reliable bet would be an ultrasonic range detector.

Just set it to detect differences in distance above the two car bays. If something roughly the height of your car sits under the sensor for three or more seconds, it's probably a car. Easy enough to set up. :)

I bought all the girls in my life a pair of these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005E04MK0

Has abasic LED ligh but pull the pin like a grenade it screams louder than you would think possible from a small keychain. Loud enough to scare yourself when you first test it and certainly loud enough to freak any perv the fuck out and turn every head on the block your way.

It's this kit: https://www.amazon.com/Reolink-Security-Surveillance-2560x1440-RLK8-410B4/dp/B01AHXEHSU

There are tons of IR spotlights available on Amazon.. I bought a few 12v mini stand alone IR lights, and put them at different locations then the camera illuminating its field of view. It works great, but keep the IR light from looking towards the camera or actually being in it's field of view.

Examples: (both of which I have used)

JC Infrared illuminator

Univivi wide angle/long range IR light

That's no FLIR, that's a regular security camera with IR flood light to improve visibility at night, something like this

https://www.amazon.com/Univivi-Infrared-Illuminator-Waterproof-Security/dp/B01G6K407Q/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1518589315&sr=8-5&keywords=ir+light

Kiwi straps suck. Mamut Grips are best for big hands, but are good. AMVR are the best grips. I own both grips. I threw the kiwi things in the garbage.

The silicon interface depends on the person. It doesn't sandpaper your face like the stock one, and feels nice and cool for the first 5 minutes, but it feels awful once it gets sweaty - imagine a wet rubber wedgie on your face. I currently have the VRCover 'facial interface set' with the 'comfort' pad that is pleather. It isn't perfect, but its the best I have found.

I hear some good things about the Studioform strap, but it looks hot and one more thing to mess with. I went went with the Vive Deluxe Audio Strap, but that costs money. I ripped the headphones out of it, so I just have stock audio. I love the quick-adjust thing on the DAS like a hard hat - makes switching people so much faster and better.

Then there is the cable. I don't do the Oculus Link, but even so I have kids and I have heard of people ruining the cable charge port on the Quest yanking on it. I got one of those magnetic USB adapters to reduce the risk of port damage.

All of the goodies need to fit in a case, and I love this thing - its super sturdy and fits it all without being too big.

Then if you want to play in the dark you need a good IR light so it is dark for your wife to sleep but the Quest can still see.

If you don't need to control the door, and just want to check open/close status, then all you really need is a tilt sensor and something to read its status.

In my case, I already had the SmartThings system for controlling lights and sensors, so I added a Z-Wave tilt sensor that SmartThings can read. Natively in the app, SmartThings can tell open/closed status in the dashboard. I have the "classic" app which does not support a timed notification, so I used an app called SmartRules to set up a rule that sends me a text notice if the garage door has been in "open" status for more than 10 minutes. The newer SmartThings app might support this as well.

Ok, I have a couple of suggestions.

First, what is your door made of, and how sturdy does the jamb look? I'll give you a hint: the jamb isn't sturdy enough. There are kits you can buy online to reinforce the door jamb (like the strikemaster pro 2). A good kit will have a steel bar that spans most of the jamb, hinge reinforcement, and a strike plate that goes around the deadbolt. The major advantage is that the door/hinge reinforcements have about a dozen 3" screws on these kits that go all the way into a stud, making it much more difficult to kick in. The door itself is much, much stronger than the jamb, which is usually very thin wood and not secured to much. Nothing will make the door impenetrable, but jamb reinforcement will help. At the least, an intruder may bail and break into someplace that's easier to enter. As for the door itself, you can consider replacing it with a steel door or a stronger wooden door. Odds are pretty good that it's plenty sturdy though - the real point of weakness is the jamb.

Your locks... That's another story. Ever hear of bumping? This is how easy it is to open most deadbolts with a $2 bump key that can be bought online or made at home. Unless your lock has an unusual key shape, it's probably susceptible to this "technique". There are locks on the market that make this more difficult or impossible if it's something you're worried about. Most thieves seem to prefer (based on what statistics I've seen) just kicking the damn thing in, but it's something to consider. But anybody who wants in badly enough is going to gain entry somehow. Once they're in, you want to make sure you know about it and hopefully they get scared off. On to alarm systems.

As for an alarm system, I cannot recommend the SkyLink system (based on the SC-100 control panel) enough. It's about $100 on Amazon. It's all wireless, control panel has battery backup, and it can be quickly and easily customized by adding extra sensors for door/window, motion, flood and vibration. You can attach extra keypads and sirens, program zones and alarm modes, and even attach an auto-dialer if you have a landline. It can't directly call 911, but you can have it send a recording to like 8 different numbers if the alarm is tripped. I had a simple set up in an apartment (control panel, extra keypad, door sensor, and extra siren) with it in about 15 minutes. I've since moved to a townhouse and expanded the system to about 10 sensors, 3 keypads, 3 sirens... It's cheap, reliable, and effective. While it doesn't give you the "cops are on the way" effect of a pro-monitored system, it gives you peace of mind that nobody is getting into your home while you're there without you knowing about it. Plus, any petty thief will hear the alarm run like hell (seriously, who puts an alarm in an apartment??). Effective range advertised is 100 yards, in actuality it's about 100 feet through walls, further if there's nothing blocking the signal.

There are lots of alarm options out there to look at, though... You can get an Ademco from many sites -- it's professional equipment and you'll need to know what you're doing to install it. This is the exact same equipment you'll get if you buy a monitored system (well, models vary but you know what I mean). You can get some wireless gadgets, but it's far more complicated and expensive than the skylink. There are also some smaller-scale systems to consider as well (which may be just fine if you're only securing two doors and aren't looking to expand the system) like this one by GE and this other one by skylink (does not include the master control panel, armed and disarmed by key fobs). Look around on Amazon, there's a pretty decent market for these types of alarms.

Sorry for the wall of text -- I've been researching door reinforcement recently, and no kidding, I love my skylink system.

Edit: added link for SC-100 system

Buying local for something like this is dumb if you are on a budget. You will get raped on prices and selection. Amazon is your friend.

The guy that suggested android phones is out of his element. How are you going to mount the phone securely? You going to have an array of 2-4 android phones? Get something like this if you are on a budget:
http://www.amazon.com/Zmodo-PKD-DK4216-500GB-Internet-Accessible-4-Channel/dp/B005FM8UL4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420300986&sr=8-1&keywords=wireless+camera+system

I have set up a few home and home-office solutions with ZModo. It is shitty software, but you get a full recording rig for 200 bucks.

As someone else stated you probably will not identify them. I sense you are on a budget. How about something like this? I have set this and similar up for a few people too. Works alright. Once an alarm starts squelching most thieves kick it quickly. http://www.amazon.com/GE-Personal-Security-Alarm-Kit/dp/B00032AVN6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420301364&sr=8-1&keywords=ge+home+alarm

Locksmith here. Unless you spend upwards of $1000, any biometric device you get will be crap. I'd suggest something like a 4-button GunVault if you want to go electronic, and test it 3 or 4 times a week to make sure it still works. Personally, I use something I built myself that uses a Simplex mechanical pushbutton lock, similar to the V-Line lock box. No batteries, decent security, and a reliable Simplex locking mechanism that's been used by government agencies for 40 years. Google around for "simplex" + "gun safe" or "gun vault" or "lock box" or the like until you find something that suits your needs.

I think a mechanical button lock is the best bet for quick access while still being secure.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000T24OFG/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=FM4JGE9SFLIN&coliid=I3CY04WYMTMX15

maybe not that exact model but that is the kind of locking mechanism I'm talking about.

Also, the biggest safety measure needed to be taken? Educate your kid about guns and gun safety.

http://www.corneredcat.com/article/kids-and-guns/the-first-lesson/

Coding can be done in python. Rasperry pi has by default a RPi.GPIO package that gives you very very easy interfacing with the GPIO pins on the board. You will need some resistors, and some leds, and a breadboard (board that lets you put wires into it so you don't need solder). Assuming you have a pi and that is working I would get these:

breadboard

jumpers

resistors and leds starter kit

DMM, not necessary but nice to have.

Here is a nice guide to the pinout on the pi and the numbering system

This is a nice guide to using rasperry pi GPIO python package

This is the generic python tutorial assuming you do not know python.

edit:

while we are at it here are some other fun things you can do with a pi:

Make it move with these ICs and DC motors. Not pi can not hook up dc motors directly, thus the chips. There are also rover kits with dc motors and wheels already.

There are sonic range sensors.

GPS receivers

temperature sensors

uv light sensors

There are a lot of projects you can do with relatively cheap sensors with the pi.

Have you looked at these? Looks to be exactly what you're looking for and within budget. Here's an arduino sketch that should explain it's operation and give a bit more details.

One of these should work. I have a few I got from Alibaba. There are loads of tutorials floating around the web about how to use it:

http://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-HC-SR04-Ranging-Detector-Distance/dp/B004U8TOE6

How about something that makes a lot of noise? Those little personal alarm things were big for a few years, you pull a pin and it makes a terrifyingly loud sound like a smoke detector. Maybe someone's about to start a fight, you set it off and it gives you 2-3 seconds head start to run while they figure out what the sound is.

http://www.amazon.com/Vigilant-Personal-PPS22BL-Batteries-Activation/dp/B005E04MK0

I have two Zmodo DVR's like these, set up. The cams aren't very good, specially at night. I've upgraded most of them with better quality ones. On my android I use IP Cam Viewer which works great to access the DVR. To access it through the web you have to use IE with an activeX plug in. I'm not crazy about that part. I've also installed a Q-See model that had it's own 7-8" monitor. I liked the Zmodo DVR better but the Q-See had better cameras.

Just about any modern DVR is going to have web access. Between the two that I've had experience with I prefer the Zmodo. You can get a stand alone DVR for less then $100. A decent cam similar to these and be up and running. After that it's just adding stuff. A hard drive if you want to record, more cameras, etc.

I've tried IP cams. They're okay. WIth all cams you need power and signal. Standard type cams that you'd use with a Zmodo have one cable that supplies power and signal and must be run back to wherever you have the DVR. IP Cams need a power cable and a network cable. The network cable needs to run to your switch, power can come from anywhere you have AC. There are WiFi cams but I've found that they aren't very good. You still need to run power to them but not a network cable. I've found just ONE cam really slows down my WiFi to everything else. I can't imagine what it would be like with several cams. With my Zmodo I haven't notice and network issues at all.

Currently my Zmodo DVR is in the garage. I have 5 cams attached to it. I've run a network cable, CAT5, to it. I don't have a montior attached to it. I just use my phone or IE for viewing. IP Cam Viewer is also Chromecast compatible so if I want I can see my cams on any of my TV's.

Hey there /r/homesecurity! I'm C5tWm77t5hMJC7m78845, though you can call me C5tWm77t5h for short.

Figured it's time to beef up my home security, partially because all of this is interesting to me and 'why not' and also because I've got expensive hobbies and stuff in my house that I'd like to protect.

I've got a pretty small house, <700 sq/ft in the corner of downtown that isn't the best area of town but... hey, I live in a small town... not much crime here to begin with. But earlier this year I did have my car vandalized (Well, every car on the street got a nice blue stripe of spray paint as someone drove down the road with a passenger spraying cars...) and aside from a neighbor having a can of gas stolen out of the back of his truck... pretty tame area even if it is the 'bad side' of town.


So, security cameras. What are your thoughts on this: http://www.amazon.com/Zmodo-PKD-DK4216-500GB-Internet-Accessible-4-Channel/dp/B005FM8UL4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416265580&sr=8-1 ?

I believe this is more than enough for me. What my plans are is simply pointing one east/west out front, which will cover the sidewalk/gate/mailbox/my car on the street. One under my porch overhang facing my front door where I enter/leave and where USPS/UPS/FedEx leaves me packages and one facing the back yard where I very rarely but sometimes park my car.

I live next door to relatives who has cameras on their house, and theirs would hit any blind spots that mine may miss. The two houses combined would provide good security coverage.



What are your thoughts on that camera system? Adequate? I'm not particularly requiring anything fancy since I work from home and AM home 90% of the time. The remote viewing is nice but would rarely be used.

Thanks!

You don't have enough to prove anything. You might want to snag something like this. Yeah, it's some money, but it'll validate what is going on.

More generally, your state has a Handbook, according to that handbook:

>Generally, a landlord may only enter a tenant’s unit for a “reasonable business purpose” after making an effort to give the tenant reasonable notice. (57) If a landlord violates this law, the tenant can take the landlord to court to break the lease, recover the damage deposit, and receive a civil penalty of up to $100 per violation. (58)

and

> If a landlord enters without giving prior notice and the tenant is not present, the landlord must give written notice to the tenant. (72) If the landlord violates this law, the tenant may recover up to $100 per violation in court. (73)

Set up a camera thing. If you catch your landlord in your space then I would get a lawyer to sue to break lease and move elsewhere as soon as possible. That's creepy as hell, but your State says it's not OK. You just need to have the proof. Once you do, get out.

Actually, I'm thinking of doing something similar to this. Except have them on motion detect and just let them record.

Edit: I have a setup for regular security and was less than 200 bucks. But this here is good. I will see if I can face a camera up and see what the quality looks like at night.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FM8UL4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_xhkgvb18NJBRS

Alright! So if it were me, I would do a camera covering the front drive or the windows to the basement if you have any.

Cost: $36

This little guy supports a range of programs and email alerts.

Then I would cover the windows to the basement with these. They scream if they sense the glass has been broken or vibrated.

Cost: $25 for two.

Add in 10 magnetic alarms on windows and any door you want.

Cost: $11

And to finish it off, setup this wireless motion detector in your basement and you can it set to email on motion alerts. You can even set it for certain times when you know you are not home.

Cost $40

Total: $112

Or you could do an all in one system.

Get a wink hub. This thing will connect to your smart phone and will tell you everything that is going on in your house by whatever you attach to it. Its pretty cool.

Cost: $70

Get the door/ window alarms for it that connect to the hub.

Cost: $65 for two

Add in a motion detection in the basement that connects to the hub.

Cost: $28

Total: $163 Barely over budget.

You can even connect that camera to it thats listed at the top of this post. Wink connects all the compatible products and allows you to control/access them from your smart phone with alerts.

Let me know if you have any questions! Hope this helps.

Do you have Z-wave setup already? If so, try searching for "z-wave motion sensors". A quick search shows in the $28 range.

Ecolink Z-Wave PIR Motion Detector, Pet Immune (PIRZWAVE2-ECO) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FB1TBKS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dfQxybTBGGN9V

I got this one for use with my HD558s. I'm then running a 30 ft long headphone extension (15ft from computer to link box, 15 ft for Vive cable) back to a Behringer headphone amp and then a DAC. I also have other 15 ft extensions (DisplayPort, USB, power) from the link box back to my PC.

The end result? 30 ft of Vive leash, headphone cable is cable-wrapped back to a proper headphone amp and DAC. No plugging/unplugging, and good sound quality to boot.

Granted, take everything I just said above with the understanding that I don't have a Vive yet, and it might work great...or not!

This particular extension was recommended by someone that has a Vive pre.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FTFYH0U

I can't find the original recommendation at the moment :/

https://www.amazon.com/Doberman-Security-SE-0106-4PK-Ultra-Slim-Window/dp/B010HWD65Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483994533&sr=8-1&keywords=glass+break+sensor

I've seen people rig up a security cable on these, trivial to get around if they really want it but it might deter the casual theif with no tools. I've also seen people mount them in a lightbulb cage or something. Another option would be to mount a battery powered motion activated alarm to them (something like this)

I have these on all the windows in my place

Doberman Security SE-0106-4PK Ultra-Slim Window Alarm (4 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010HWD65Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Sk8MzbYXME5XM

They work great.

I would suggest a NVR system. It is all in one. You plug the cameras into the back of the box. You can plug a monitor into the box and see all cameras connected. Don't hook it to the internet so it cannot be hacked.

https://www.amazon.com/Surveillance-Supported-Security-Recording-RLK8-410B4/dp/B01AHXEHSU/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=nvr+reolink&qid=1562792478&s=gateway&sr=8-5

Apologies, I didn't realize that was a requirement. While the Reolink cameras speak ONVIF, the Reolink NVR only works with Reolink cameras. My guess is, their financial model depends on everything being sold as a package.

This is the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/Surveillance-Supported-Security-Recording-RLK8-410B4/dp/B01AHXEHSU

Most of the ones I've seen in store are old style analog cameras and not IP cameras. You definitely want IP cameras with PoE. What is your budget? I have this system from Amazon and am quite happy with it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AHXEHSU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8wVOBb6WQFYCB

I’ve been using the Zooz 4 in 1 zwave sensor (amazon link). It was a bit of a pain to get it connected to my network for some reason, but once I got it connected it’s been working great. Maybe a 1 to 1.5 second delay from walking into the room to triggering an automation. Not great but not bad.

It also has ambient light, temp, and humidity sensors. Not sure how accurate that is as I haven’t used it but it seems to be consistent so I’d expect with some trial and error it would work if needed.

Here's one:

https://www.amazon.com/Infrared-Illuminator-Power-Vision-Camera/dp/B01D73XM24/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1Z576YO0ZFWXK&keywords=ir+light&qid=1569702371&s=electronics&sprefix=ir+light%2Caps%2C265&sr=1-6

Just for reference, here is an example PoE injector. Not being limited to batter opens up options if you can run the wire: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I

I don’t have any camera recommendations for you. But I did have a really shitty night camera for awhile. I ended up setting up an external IR light to make up for it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G6K407Q

So that’s something to keep in mind if you are unhappy with whatever you get or want lighting from another source

Yep, that one works. I have one of those on my fireplace and can use Google Home via Emulated Hue to turn it on/off.

Really any Z-wave relay would work. On my garage door I use this one:

https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00ER6MH22.

Then you also need a garage door tilt sensor like one of these (I've used both with no problems, one for a mailbox and the other for the garage door):

https://www.amazon.com/Z-wave-Plated-Reliability-Garage-TILT-ZWAVE2-5-ECO/dp/B01MRZB0NT
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=11987

I haven't looked to see if there's a better workaround, but since a garage door needs just a momentary pulse from the relay to run, you have to turn the relay back off, which I did with a Home Assistant script:

https://github.com/hunterstee/Home-Assistant/blob/master/script.yaml

This means that to open or close the garage door via Alexa/Google Home though, you have to say "Alexa, turn on the garage door". Telling it to turn off won't actually close the garage door because the relay has to be turned on to cycle the door.

EDIT: This is what my setup looks like in Home Assistant: https://i.imgur.com/G5FATEi.png

What hub do you have? You can get a door censor or a 'tilt sensor' like this one https://www.amazon.com/Ecolink-Intelligent-Technology-Z-Wave-TILT-ZWAVE2-ECO/dp/B01MRZB0NT?th=1 if you just want to see if it's open or closed. You wont be able to open or close it from the app, but at least see the status.

I bought these and they've worked great for me so far, never fallen down and don't require any insertions into the wall

Nice. I just got mine about a month ago and I found this decent case on Amazon. I figured it was unnecessary after I had purchased it because I too mounted my cam under an overhang. We'll see how it lasts through the winter and if it was a Wyze investment.

Here's the link if you're interested.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G72SQXB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_F8FmDbE8STHW5

I also put mine with silicon into this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G72SQXB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use mine outside with this cover.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G732B9J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BQtvDbFFT5ZJZ

Northeast US

using these:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G732B9J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm not up on CA stun gun regulations, but here in Louisiana, my wife and I both have this stun gun from Academy Sports. It's nice that it doubles as a pretty decent flashlight as well as having some pretty mean prongs on the front that I wouldn't want to be hit with.

For the house, you could look into those stick on alarm systems which you can usually find at Lowe's or Home Depot.

You could look into self defense classes for her as well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00032AVN6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_P42azbKT4FVKW

I got this one because it comes with the window alarms, but you can just get the door one. It was easy to install. It just sticks onto the door, and then the sensor on the door frame.

You can use it on rented homes/apartments because it doesn't call 911 and you can remove it later.

u/agamemn_anon

I bought these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00032AVN6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_ao4PwbVEVD67Y

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UD5HJE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_Mo4PwbCFS61SJ


I'm from a extremely small town maybe 2 murders in like 20 years or more. Break ins unheard of etc. I'm in a place literally over 200xs bigger I'm was so paranoid all the time. I know the wireless alarms won't do much to protect but it's an awesome deterrence.

Bake some cookies and give them to your neighbors extra eyes are always welcome. Our apartment has security and everyone is pretty nice.

You need to set up a security system. The most important part is the alarm. As soon as that alarm goes off, the people are gonna run. Another thing you can do is get a spotlight pointed on your entryway, or just something to give your outdoors more light.

http://www.amazon.com/51107-Smart-Wireless-Alarm-System/dp/B00032AVN6/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1333244825&sr=1-2

Amazon sells personal security alarms for apartments. link

V-Line Top Draw is my recommendation. Mechanical simplex lock. No batteries to worry about.

V-Line Top Draw Security Case (Black) by V-Line http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000T24OFG/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_Sb82tb1V972MG

My wife is the exact same way, I use a V-Line top draw.

I went with the V-Line Top Draw after similar research/thoughts about electronic systems. I like it quite a bit, it's very simple, not electronic, and quite well built/heavy gauge steel for what it is. Easy to quickly open, and I think plenty safe against accidental access from children or people who don't know any better (not against someone determined to get in and steal the contents.)

It holds my G19 + 2 spare mags and Five-SeveN/TLR-2s + 2 spare mags snuggly but without issue.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000T24OFG

Something stupid like this may help you ID them:

http://www.amazon.com/GE-45117-Deluxe-Wireless-Alarm/dp/B0014A4JWU

I have this one, 10 bucks on amazon
http://www.amazon.com/GE-45117-Deluxe-Wireless-Alarm/dp/B0014A4JWU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1414035916&sr=8-4&keywords=door+alarm

It's pretty loud. Can be set to go off as soon as the door opens or set to go off 30 seconds after the door opens in away mode.

I highly recommend that anyone reading this, if you have no security system at a minimum pick up some simple magnetic alarms.

Here are some cheap ones.

https://www.amazon.com/GetTen-Wireless-Burglar-Security-Magnetic/dp/B00U4N2EQ6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481680712&sr=8-3&keywords=door+alarm

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Deluxe-Wireless-Alarm-45117/dp/B0014A4JWU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481680712&sr=8-2&keywords=door+alarm

https://www.amazon.com/SABRE-Wireless-Security-Window-Burglar/dp/B00M30SKM0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1481680712&sr=8-4&keywords=door+alarm

If you are not home the loud alarm may be enough to chase them away, especially if you live in an apartment building where people might come looking.

But the more important part is that no one can come in while you're home without you knowing immediately. No one can sneak in at night or (definitely a concern to women) attack you by surprise.

> https://www.utsource.net/itm/p/9221730.html
Yes, something similar.
I used this: https://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-HC-SR04-Ranging-Detector-Distance/dp/B004U8TOE6

(hc-sr04 ultrasonic sensor)

Some dumb ideas to help get the ball rolling in this thread...

Motion activated security camera using Motion or MotionEyeOS -- it's one of the go-to Pi Zero W projects, and you could set it up to email you photos and video.

Perhaps a Check-In system? Just spitballing, but a Pi paired with a touchscreen would allow patients to check-in electronically when they show up for their appointments.

Similarly, an ultrasonic sensor connected to a Pi could be placed by the front door, and could send you a notice every time someone entered the room. This could be useful if you regularly have to leave the front office empty.

I don't work in a doctor's office, and I know I'm totally not being helpful but think of all the things a computer can do in your office -- and then ask, what are some things you'd like to automate, or some things that could be more effective if they were smaller or more portable?

For example, would it be useful to put a $5 Pi Zero in each examination room and pair it with an RFID reader, for tracking doctors and/or patients?

Like with any technology, it might be easier to identify specific areas for improvement in your office, then ask in what ways a Pi might solve those problems via its basic attributes (eg low cost, low profile, GPIO pins, etc).

If LIDAR is expensive, you can't go wrong with the cheap version of the Ping sensor, the HC-SR04. It's ultrasonic and should be like 3-150cm range iirc. but it's $6 with Prime. If you want a decent cheap distance sensor, this will be hard to beat.


https://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-HC-SR04-Ranging-Detector-Distance/dp/B004U8TOE6

You could probably get it shipped to Europe through Amazon. And here's a cheaper version -- 4 pins instead of 3, but probably works just as well!

Ultrasonic Module HC-SR04 Distance Sensor For Arduino

Check this out on AMZN:

Ultrasonic Module HC-SR04 Distance Sensor For Arduino
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004U8TOE6/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_us?ie=UTF8

Try calling him a piece of shit loser. Make sure you're laughing when you say it. Male sure you get one of these first though https://www.theguardian.com/business/2015/aug/02/the-innovators-personal-rape-alarm-fast-track-police or something like this https://www.amazon.com/Vigilant-Personal-PPS22BL-Batteries-Activation/dp/B005E04MK0

There are a variety of options:

1. Cheap: Raspberry Pi with Camera http://www.raspberrypi.org/turn-your-pi-into-a-low-cost-hd-surveillance-cam/
   
   
2. Less cheap, but easy: Home security system in a box (only cameras) http://www.amazon.com/Zmodo-PKD-DK4216-500GB-Internet-Accessible-4-Channel/dp/B005FM8UL4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408738183&sr=8-1&keywords=home+security+camera
   
   
3. Less cheap, but easy 2: DIY alarm system with one camera: http://allthingsd.com/20120809/alertmes-home-security-system-for-the-diy-crowd/
   
   
4. Expensive, but easy: just get a home security system
   
   
5. Less expensive but hard: a linux server running zoneminder with multiple IP cameras
   
   All of these solutions require internet service for remote alerts/monitoring. Some require subscriptions for online access.
   
   Most products that have remote access either require you to run your own webserver or subscribe to the vendor's service.
   
   In order to get a text message out you'll need to find a product that has a cellular modem built in. All of the products I know of that have this are very, very, expensive. (or come from Indian/Chinese dealers with no support and a 30 day shipping time)
   
   An alternative, if you are technically inclined is to add a 3G/4G dongle to a Raspberry Pi, but I don't know of any products that integrate the wireless functionality with any security/camera applications automatically.
   
   Here's a guy who hacked together a system using a raspberry pi and a 3G dongle: http://projectsmax246.blogspot.com/2013/01/webcam-over-3g-with-raspberry-pi.html
   
   That solution is (relatively) cheap, but definitely DIY and NOT easy...
   
   Here's an arduino+motion sensor project that is even more DIY and not easy: https://github.com/mattwilliamson/arduino-sms-alarm

You can try this one:

Ecolink Z-Wave PIR Motion Detector, Pet Immune (PIRZWAVE2-ECO) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FB1TBKS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.sqGybC10WH89

I have one and it works well. I have it with my smartthings hub in a bedroom

Thanks for the info, is this the ones that you have outside?

Thank you again, so if i purchase these myself would the installer still add them to the panel and such, I am sure i could do it as well, I am just curious what happens if they show up and you have equipment, when they did my parents house they did do a nice job of mounting the motion detectors so that would be nice if they did that, not currently happy with the placement of mine.

I also have a few motion sensors but i dont know if these would be compatible?

https://www.amazon.ca/Ecolink-Z-Wave-Motion-Detector-PIRZWAVE2-ECO/dp/B00FB1TBKS

And one last question I would like some outdoor camera's, from what I understand unless you purchase an additional storage type device the outdoor camera's will still record and store a short clip based on motion?

Do you happen to know what outdoor camera models they use? Since you dont use these maybe you have never looked into it.

Edit: And any idea what the skypanel costed as well?

I have had good luck with these ecolink sensors https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FB1TBKS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473343752&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=ecolink+motion+sensor

This is what I'm using. 2 small dogs, 2 cats, no false alarms.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FB1TBKS

http://www.amazon.com/Hanvex-HDCQ12-Extension-Adapter-UL2468/dp/B00FTFYH0U?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

I have those and they work fine. There might be cheaper ones around but that's the plug size you'll want

If you want 50ft HDMI I can confirm that this cable works perfectly, camera turned on and everything, for only a couple bucks more than the OP's cable. I'm using this extender for linkbox power and two of these extenders for the lighthouses.

It really is nice to move your setup to a much bigger play space, and being able to extend so far is really handy.

Search for DC extension, they make them. Stuff like this but you'll have to get the plug size right. Alternatively just cut the plug end off and extend / reterminate the existing cable...

The problem with extending the DC side of any wall power adapter is that the voltage drop from wire gauge, length and connector loss is much more significant for low voltage DC than it is on the 110VAC side. Adding a dozen feet is probably not a problem at [email protected] but it would still be ideal to extend the other side of the transformer wiring (add a regular household extension cord) instead.

ill pick up a bag, looks neat and nice for those pain to reach spots in the racks.

amazon reviews look promising.

yuuup those plastic RackStuds I dropped a good chunk of change on for them. I paid $80 shipped for them from amazon, and I wouldn't buy anything else ever again. They are that awesome.

You can get them from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Rackstuds-Smart-Mounting-System-100-pack/dp/B00I348OD0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420739796&sr=8-1&keywords=rackstuds

Most zwave sensors are battery powered. Actually, I haven't seen wired door/window sensors outside of proprietary security systems, though I'm sure there's something out there.

This Wink Essentials Kit will work with any zwave hub, and is pretty much the best bang-for-the-buck for zwave sensors right now. I have three of them on my OpenHAB setup, and haven't had any problems.

For a water sensor, I've been keeping an eye on the Aeotec Water Sensor but I haven't purchased one yet.

Everything I've linked is battery powered.

This would be your best bet, but you do have to know/learn how to get the code up and running on both the Arduino and SmartThings IDE, so maybe a bit intense for some. Plus they stopped selling it a while ago... I'm still mad I didn't buy more.

I've made a few customish sensors (i.e.: doorbell) with these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XUXYSWU - they're relatively cheap, and it's super easy to add external sensors to them. You're stuck with the motion sensors, but I can always find a use for those. But on the contact sensors, just snip the hall sensor out to disable the contact feature, then connect your wired sensor to the provided terminals. Thats it, but If you're feeling ambitious you can copy the device handler in the IDE and edit it to represent what you're actually sensing. May find this handy if you're combining sensors or something similar (i.e. need to know all 1st floor windows are closed, not listed individually).

All that said, I would just stick to straight wireless wherever possible, because the mesh network is strengthened with each device you have scattered around the house. But if you can find an Arduino shield, that would be wayyy cheaper since you could use one device to integrate all pre-wired sensors.

I got one of the go control kits that comes with a motion and 2 doors for $42 off amazon and they work.
https://www.amazon.com/GOCONTROL-WNK01-21KIT-Essential-Z-Wave-Security/dp/B00XUXYSWU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479839716&sr=8-1&keywords=go+control

I had already been leaning towards creating an alarm solution through Wink and getting rid of my alarm company, but this has pushed me over the edge. Ordered the GoControl WNK01-21KIT Z-Wave Essentials Wink Enabled Security Kit and have already set up most of the shortcuts/robots/IFTTT stuff you mentioned. I'm only planning to start with Wink notifications for the alarm for now, but might set up phone calls for the smoke detector. Need to determine if I can get the Z-Wave sensors already installed to work with my system. Might save me some time/money.

That sucks. Here's some suggestions on protecting your home in the future.

Visit /r/homedefense but it may be a bit over the top.

You can get a sliding door lock like this which is very effective.

There are a large number of smart devices that don't cost a ton, are easy to install, and offer great feature. For example, I have several of these guys around my house. They connect to your wifi and then your phone. You get real-time alerts. You can also daisy-chain them with other IFTTT devices. For example, when the door opens, a light can turn on, etc.

While expensive, the Nest cams are super easy to set up and work great.

GeoArm security company offers great monitoring options if you have or get an alarm.

Change the locks but research them - some are trivial to get through!

For all outdoor entries, removed, drill out, and replace the screws holding the strike plates with 3" - 5" long screws that go into the studs. This will make it significantly harder to break into a door.

Get a fake tv device which makes it look like someone is home.

Plant roses outside / under all windows. The bigger the better.

Motion activated lights are great, just mount them out of reach and install LED bulbs (regular bulbs fail quickly due to heat/cold).

Even without an alarm, buy legitimate company signs like these Brinks ones (or find ADT ones) that says you have an alarm. I've heard unconfirmed data that this lessens break ins.

There are a large number of small glass break alarms like these that can be installed.

You can also get movement based alarms like these.

I don't endorse any of them, those are just what came up first in my searches.

Hope that helps.

You might be interested in something like this or this, but I can't attest to the quality or functionality of either. I think /u/JesseLibertine has the doberman window alarms, so maybe he can let us know.

How inexpensive? $38 ?
ZOOZ Z-Wave Plus 4-in-1 Sensor ZSE40 VER. 2.0 (motion / light / temperature / humidity) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AKSO80O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tubjDb34F1HJ1

EDIT sorry may not work with Google home out of the box. I have a Smartthings hub.

I use this in my daughter's bedroom to control the thermostat for the best temp in her room at bedtime.

ZOOZ Z-Wave Plus 4-in-1 Sensor... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AKSO80O?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I currently use some GoControl/Linear motion sensors. They're ugly and slow (1-4 seconds), so I'm also looking around for an alternative. I found these two on Amazon. Anyone know if they are worth the price?

https://www.amazon.com/ZOOZ-Z-Wave-Sensor-Temperature-Humidity/dp/B01AKSO80O/

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-TriSensor-Temperature-Automation-Security/dp/B07GP3ZCYD/

As a Canadian, I opted for Dome and Zooz Z-wave products instead. Dome's door sensors pair with ST and work fine out of the box. For the Zooz motion sensors you'll need to get a device handler for the full feature set. But I prefer Z-wave over Zigbee.

The windows don't allow IR lights to go out and get reflected back into the camera lens. You can turn off the cameras night vision mode and put something like this outdoors to light up the area at night.

outdoor ir lights

It’s an IR Illuminator. For security cameras. https://www.amazon.com/Infrared-Illuminator-Power-Vision-Camera/dp/B01D73XM24

Here you go https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D73XM24

You'll need separate IR LED banks to illuminate your intended area. Adding more to feed off of a simple USB power source doesn't seem to be wise.

https://www.amazon.com/Univivi-Infrared-Illuminator-Waterproof-Security/dp/B01G6K407Q/

here you go. some people are using them with Wyze as seen in the reviews https://www.amazon.com/Univivi-Infrared-Illuminator-Waterproof-Security/dp/B01G6K407Q/

I grabbed both the wide angle and the long range versions of this, Love them. I look at my camera monitors then out the window on a moonless night and it is somewhat freaky to see pitch black out the window but see a black and white daylight brightness level thru the cameras.

Narrow / Long range version
Wide angle / short range version
Power packs

Agreed, this is definitely the problem, especially in this one. If just changing the aim of the cameras doesn't satisfy you, you can also add IR illuminators to the outside of your home to help out the cameras. I have a few of these. The hardest part of installing them is running power to the lights. I have an outlet in my attic already, so I got DC extension cables to run from the light into the attic.

Nice! I e been looking at [these](Sensative Z-Wave Plus Ultra Thin Door/Window Contact Sensor Strips Guard, Good for Outdoor Installation https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWMTUI8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_k9E5AbNK9M9F4) for my pool gate, but it’s good to know there are alternatives.

You have a big enough gap at the top for the sensitive strip, which is my favorite door sensor so far, I can’t even tell that it’s there

Sensative Z-Wave Plus Ultra Thin Door/Window Contact Sensor Strips Guard, Good for Outdoor Installation https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWMTUI8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_F1xPAb7DYFHXN

This is what I used. And according to CamelCamelCamel, ~$30 is close to the lowest price it has been in several months. I went with Z-wave plus because it is supposed to get longer range (good for the garage) and longer battery life (good for the wallet). For ~$30/door, it is probably more expensive than some other sensors, but they were easy to pair and I haven't had a single issue with them since I got them 1 month ago. They still say 100% battery too, which gives me hope for long battery life.

What about simply installing a tilt sensor on the garage door and using that (with a hub) to turn on lights in the garage? Ecolink makes a very reliable Z-Wave tilt sensor and there are many Z-Wave wall switches to choose from (including this very snazzy one).

Go get one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRZB0NT

Pop the cover and attach wires from doorbell to provided screw terminals inside. Add to Z-Wave hub. Configure sensor in HA to trigger some doorbell action. e.g.

• service: tts.google_say
  entity_id: media_player.google_home
  data: message: 'Ding Dong. Someone is at the front door.'
  
  Caveat: doorbell switch cannot be the lighted variety. Gotta disconnect that bulb if it is.
  
  edit: formatting

Honestly iRacing, AC and PCARS2 all work well in VR, PCARS2 does require quite the computer to run it, however. iRacing supposedly has very good VR implementation, good performance all around. AC would be quite in between I can imagine, it's my go-to sim overall and I had no issues playing with even a little bit of SuperSampling on just a GTX980.

For racing sims, the HMD of your choice is the Oculus Rift. I haven't tried the Vive Pro so I can not comment on it personally, but from what I've gathered watching the tech giants, it's not quite a step up worth the money.

For sim-racing and seated experience all together, there really is no other choice than the Oculus Rift. Reasons being:

• More ergonomic controllers
  
  
• Lighter headset, and better weight distribution overall, it literally feels like half the weight of a Vive
  
  
• Built-in headphones, surprisingly good quality as well (I don't feel the need to use my Beyerdynamic DT 770 Pro headphones, that says quite a bit)
  
  
• Better performance with asynchronous spacewarp
  
  
• Clearer screen (this is reason enough to go Rift > Vive imo) and with asynchronous spacewarp you can afford to run more supersampling, resulting in an even better looking experience
  
  
• MUCH cheaper! Not only that, but for the Vive to even be close in comfort you'll need the deluxe audio strap, spending even more money, and even then it only comes close at best.
  
  The only thing the Vive does better is roomscale, and even then it is just marginally better if you have a big enough area for it. I use 3 sensors mounted just below my ceiling using 3d printed wall mounts, very similar to these I found on Amazon, and the tracking is just flawless. A friend of mine has the HTC Vive, and apart from his slightly bigger play area, the roomscale experience is undoubtedly just as good.

So if you just want the wall mounts, there is someone that sells them on Amazon that uses a similar file as I do. You can easily get it from him and not have to wait for me to print them.

https://www.amazon.com/Oculus-Compatible-Sensor-Mounts-Black/dp/B06XR8DL7T/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541119105&sr=8-3&keywords=oculus+wall+mounts

that's pretty awesome to hear, i never knew that. with the basestations can you easily attach them to the walls or is it something you'd need a shelf to sit them on? like currently with my rift sensors i unscrewed the top of them and attached them these and it's an easy stick to the wall. since i've never seen or used their basestations i'm not sure how they attach to walls or set up

Many people seem to have luck using these wall mounts and 3M Command Strips to stick them to the wall.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XR8DL7T/ref=s9u_bmx_g_gw_i2?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pd_rd_i=B06XR8DL7T&pd_rd_r=7a288755-2b29-11e8-a77e-4f4ee7533ebd&pd_rd_w=dvv1j&pd_rd_wg=bqt3A&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=M91ENTN8YTQ9BMSEYBGB&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=e6624b56-7cc1-411f-9d12-9cc8feb6c214&pf_rd_i=desktop

Depending on how high or far apart you mount it, might be a good idea to get an extension cable as well. If the wires look too unsightly, maybe some white tape would help cover itup.

Personally I use bookshelf speakers so I ended up propping them up higher and putting my cameras on top of them.

The wifi has me somewhat concerned. But you can try out a pretty cheap option. Wyze are ok cameras and have motion detection and night vision, they are like $25.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Wyze-Indoor-Wireless-Camera-Vision/dp/B076H3SRXG/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=video+security+camera&qid=1562081492&s=gateway&sr=8-4

​

To make it outdoor safe you need a hood for around $12.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Camera-Bracket-Protective-Security-Outdoor/dp/B07G72SQXB/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1YNZ1XYBJOW9S&keywords=wyze+outdoor+cam&qid=1562081608&s=gateway&sprefix=wye+out%2Caps%2C206&sr=8-5

​

Next question is do you have an external power outlet to power the camera? This setup would work and do the basics for around $50. There are plenty of full systems out there but it sounds like it might be over kill. If you run into anything problems feel free to ping me.

Real Time Stream Protocol (RTSP) is a standardized protocol for streaming audio/video from cameras (among other things).

Basically it makes it so that I can connect several different brands of (RTSP) cameras to one central server that records them all and sends notifications to my phone when it detects movements.

My favorite at the moment is the Wyze cameras. They just recently added RTSP support and are only $26 each:

https://www.amazon.com/Wyze-Indoor-Wireless-Camera-Vision/dp/B076H3SRXG

Get a weatherproof mount if you are wanting to mount them outside:

https://www.amazon.com/Camera-Bracket-Protective-Security-Outdoor/dp/B07G72SQXB

Not OP, but I have a Wyze V2 on my porch in this housing. It’s mounted up under a soffit, so it’s pretty protected from any rain/snow, as long as the wind isn’t blowing straight up, and can’t even be seen until you’re actually on the porch.

My original plan was to wire an outlet into a junction box, in the attic, to plug the camera in, using the provided usb cable. But, if I ever needed to unplug it, I would’ve had to climb up in the attic to do so. So, I ended up using one of
these cables, and dropping it down to an outlet in my garage, where I could unplug it, if I ever needed to. Granted, there’s only about 6” of the cable actually exposed, as it comes out of the back of the housing (I dremel’d a new hole out of the back, and covered the original hole on the bottom) and up into the soffit, and it’s pretty much protected from the sun/whatnot. But it’s held up well, at least through the hottest months and so far into the coldest months.

Honestly? I combine a Wyze Cam with an outdoor mount in the soffit above the door (much better angle than a doorbell provides) and an Aeotec Z-wave doorbell.

The total investment is $107 with zero subscription fees.

Is this the cover you are using? https://www.amazon.com/Camera-Bracket-Weather-Security-Outdoor/dp/B07G732B9J

1. https://www.amazon.com/Camera-Bracket-Weather-Security-Outdoor/dp/B07G732B9J
   
2. Nope
   
3. Powered directly by an outlet through walls like in this guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZFBecgvtQU - same mount I listed too
   
4. All placed under roof eaves, though I did seal them with silicone & put a mesh screen on the bottom hole (read reviews on product page for more info)
   
5. Samsung 32GB EVO MicroSD Card & it's set to continuously record & events to cloud. Been using them for 4-5 months & no issues. (Well, if I record from the timeline the audio is usually out of sync, but that's actually a firmware issue)

I bought these for exterior mounting:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07G732B9J/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_DF7XDbPFVMJN0

For inside I'd probably experiment with the 3m sticky disc and metal disc that sticks to it, that the magnetic camera then sticks to... Literally just stick it to the wall where you want to monitor

Btw, wyze plugs can be used to set timers on your heat and uvb for daytime, then when they turn those off turn on your night lamp or heating pad. I use a dual plug from another company as I've had it long before wyze made theirs.

Could even use the wyze sensors on the doors or cage tops so you're notified when they're opened..

Wyze Cam Wall Mount Bracket, Wyze Camera Cover with Adjustable Wall Mount for Wyze Cam V2 V1 and Ismart Spot Camera Indoor Outdoor Use, (White 3 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G732B9J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tKr2DbA1J4219

Well, I live in Phoenix so I don't really deal with rain that much. These ones were installed under an overhang, so they are not getting wet.

I recently purchased this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G732B9J/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm moving shortly, and some of the locations will be more in the open. This should help I think.

My philosophy with these guys is... I'll risk it. It dies, It was only $25 :)


The live tracking is customizable too. Notice in the first video there is a black patch on the ground on the left? A cat likes to come by in the early morning sometimes and walk along that wall. I modified the tracking target so it doesnt alert me for movement there, only closer to the door.

If your on a budget maybe you could put up some 'fake' stuff:

For $12 here are some signs.

For $25 bucks here is a window and door alarm.

Criminals are pretty dumb and between the signs and an alarm going off it might be enough to scare them away. They basically want easy targets. Chances are good they are drug addicts, so probably paranoid. If they are kids this might be enough to scare them away.

Lastly, a motion sensor light might fool them into thinking someone is home.

Living alone you should have some weapon to protect you be it mace/tazer/baseball bat and some of those cheap alarm systems.
http://www.amazon.com/GE-51107-Smart-Wireless-System/dp/B00032AVN6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1347743114&sr=8-2&keywords=alarm+system

These things are stupid easy to place and will scare the shit out of anyone who is breaking in AND will alarm other people! Very simple and cheap system that can be controlled by yourself! Oh and get a big guy friend until you feel safe, I'd totally crash at a friends house if she didn't feel safe!

Why not use something like this?

Edit: link fail

One thing that is worth considering for your husband is to carry a firearm while in the house. A comfortable OWB holster and a good belt places the loaded firearm in his direct control at all times. The other guns can then go into the safe.

If he's not inclined to do that for comfort reasons or just not wanting to carry in the house, there are numerous "quick access" vaults that can keep curious hands away without necessarily adding too much time for accessing the weapon. I would go for a mechanically actuated vault vs those electronic ones with buttons or fingerprint scanners. You don't want to be fumbling with electronics and sweaty fingers when time is of the essence.

Depending on the level of "readiness" that your husband wants to achieve, storing the firearms with loaded magazines but closed bolts/slides on empty chambers can add another layer of security/complexity towards discharging the firearms. Some may view it as a hindrance or something to forget in times of stress or injury, but it's worth considering all the options.

It's worth discussing with your husband the level of readiness he desires along with the element of risk that you both are willing to accept. Currently, it's pretty much grab-and-go from the closet. Does he move a gun closer to the bed when sleeping? If someone's trying to break in when everyone's around, is it a "honey go grab the gun" sort of situation? You already mentioned having to lock the bedroom door when family/friends are around. How does he feel about security when no one is home? While you live in a low crime neighborhood, most crimes happen during the day when most people are away. Also consider investing in upgraded/reinforced door frames, deadbolts, sliding doors, and windows. Those are elements that can buy you precious time in the hypothetical home intrusion to access the guns however they are stored.

Most importantly, make sure that you and your husband have a plan for such incidents. Make sure you know how to communicate with each other and have a plan for who goes where, does what, calls 911, etc. Might be worth stocking some basic first aid such as tourniquets and gauze as well.

Here are some mechanically actuated safes that seem to be relatively well-received:

Pistol shot-lock

AR-15 shot-lock


Here's an RFID vault

RFID Pistol

EDIT:
Here's some more mechanical vaults

Fort Knox


V-Line

If you're putting it in a drawer, this V-Line Top Draw might be your best bet. Here's the smaller version as well. You'd just have to decide if it would fit. It's also cheaper at about $150 for either one. No need to break the bank if it's only going to be in there at night. Most people would say even that is overkill. I just keep my CC in my nightstand drawer when I sleep and either take it with me during the day or lock it up in the security cabinet with the rest of the guns. I, on the other hand, don't have any kids and my wife wouldn't dare touch it without asking me first.

Keep in mind, of course, if you leave your gun inside of it, it would be quite easy for a thief to steal unless it is secured to something that is prohibitively large or heavy to move or steal. I am guessing since you have an AmSec safe, you already know that, but I figured I would add that just in case.

> A gun locked in a box is not a useful tool for protecting yourself

This is not true at all. With a lock box a gun can be stored safely and also available to use in seconds.

I would suggest a pistol safe with a simplex lock. i keep mine on my nightstand and I can get into it in about two to three seconds. Mine is something like what is linked (http://www.amazon.com/V-Line-Draw-Security-Case-Black/dp/B000T24OFG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1422103489&sr=8-2&keywords=simplex+lock+pistol+safe)

I looked into it when I was shopping for a simple safe for my handguns. Based on my research, I decided I didn't want a system that could fail due to lack of batteries or the inability to get it to read my fingerprint in a stressful situation.

So, I decided to go with something with a mechanical lock, but that still could be accessed fairly quickly. I ended up with this safe from V-Line. It's really fast to get into, and I've been really pleased with it.

V-Line makes a great safe too!

http://www.amazon.com/V-Line-Draw-Security-Case-Black/dp/B000T24OFG

Try a portable deadbolt, found here or here or here

3rd one is probably what you're looking for

Alternatively, you could get a wireless door alarm that has a keypad. Found here or here

-
The best part about getting a cheap alarm system is that if he opens the door it will fill the house with a deafening screeching noise. And when you get home, the topic will likely come up "oh we needed to get into your room for [insert innocent excuse here]" So if you choose this option you need to have a conversation beforehand establishing firm boundaries that under no circumstances can anyone go into your room

Jesus christ. Can you talk to your landlord???

Also, there are some cheap thingies you can get that beep when someone enters. It won't call a company or anything but it might scare them off if it happens again. Like this.

I am sorry you are going through this. I know it is very hard.

Just a piece of advice from someone who has worked with dementia patients, get some loud door alarms for all of the doors. As it progresses, you will want to keep him safe and keep him from accidentally wandering off in the middle of the night. If you are in the states, you can get some cheap ones from Home Depot or Amazon.

Also, let any neighbors know as well. This way they can keep an eye out in case he accidentally travels.

http://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-HC-SR04-Ranging-Detector-Distance/dp/B004U8TOE6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1410776231&sr=8-3&keywords=arduino+ping Cheaper alternative? Dunno what the exact differences are.

There are range sensors for microcontrollers that are really cheap: https://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-HC-SR04-Ranging-Detector-Distance/dp/B004U8TOE6 I just got one in a few days ago and was going to start playing with it. It claims 400mm range.

How complex is up to you, I mean... its going to be a digital or analog stream right, so you'd have to be able to decern pitch frequencies inorder to make voice commands; thats my guess any way.

http://www.amazon.com/Ultrasonic-Module-HC-SR04-Distance-Arduino/dp/B004U8TOE6/ref=pd_rhf_se_shvl5

This is a distance sensor for arduino, which is the C or C++ big brother to NetDuino. My understanding is that all the big brother stuff will work with the .NET Micro Framework and NetDuino SDK.

>Body shaped like a broom sitting on wheels. If it has arms they're not movable.

Wood: <$30, Aluminum: <$80. Hacksaw and drill required.

>Outdoor wheels that can move the robot on dirt, gravel, grass.

$30 + some modifications to connect a shaft

>Camera for vision

Either this or a USB webcam

>Can detect and avoid objects

With the webcam? A couple years of machine vision classes + openCV. One method would be to use an object matching algorithm (block matching) and two cameras to guess depth. Thats one of the fastest, simplest algorithms you can imagine, and it would barely run on a raspberry pi with low resolution cameras and fixed depth.

With sensors, you'd want to use the HC-SR04 or something similar. With a significant amount of work you can get a rough idea of what the world in front of you is like.

>Using GPS or something else, only drives within the bounds of a set area (like an imaginary fence)

$16 module. Note that it and GPS in general is only accurate to a few meters. Most of the time the GPS in your car can hardly tell what lane it is in. It is not possible to get better accuracy without some very hard work. GPS is only good enough to say you are around this area. Its good enough to keep you in a backyard, but not on a sidewalk. The application is very important to the solution.

>I'm imagining a robot around average adult height that you could walk around with outside. How difficult and costly of a task do you think this would be for a team to design and build? Do you know of anything similar?

This is one of the most common types of consumer robots. Fully featured they run a couple thousand dollars, or like $700 without the ipad. NB: the GPS/location problem is solved with the ipad, which uses wifi/cellular magic for increased accuracy. Also its remote controlled, and definitely can't leave a smooth floor.

Having the robot follow you on its own is an entirely new challenge. The easiest way would be for you to tether your phone with bluetooth or wifi and send your location data to the robot. Next easiest would be an infrared beacon + camera, or a sonar beacon. Complicated.

The actual hardware parts are super simple. I've used CIM motors a great deal in FIRST. They're pretty thirsty, but the FRC Victors are pretty good. You can use sprockets and chain to get a low reduction, or a gearbox. ~10x is enough to get 10" wheels to about as fast as a human can run, and torquey enough to get 200lbs up pretty much any slope/accelerate quite speedily. A 220 Wh battery would be enough to keep a 100lb robot following a walking person for a couple hours, or 20 minutes at max speed. This $100 battery is 355 Wh.

Fuck that rule. You have the right to protect yourself. They sell many disguised versions of pepper spray.

Lipstick Pepper Spray

Pen Pepper Spray

Stun gun that looks like an iPhone

Personal alarm

The "Women shouldn't have to protect themselves because people shouldn't assault women" argument is dangerous garbage to listen or respond to. Should and shouldn't is irrelevant. Assault, rape, and murder have been around for as long as living things have existed, and they always will be around. It's foolish for anybody, women OR men, to go around unprotected. Take your life into your own hands, get a tool, learn how to use it. If you can't carry a gun, carry a taser. If you can't carry a taser, carry pepper spray. If you can't carry pepper spray, carry it anyway. If you'd like any advice in how to operate or handle anything you may decide to carry, let me know, I'm glad to help.

You should try to stay in public new OP. Busy hospital emergency rooms, 24 hour diners, maybe a city homeless shelter where there will be staff present.

If you have to go into a private area plan ahead. Try not to stay in a room with only one exit. Always back your car into the driveway so you can make a quick getaway. Keep your weapons on you at all times. Maybe get an alarm like this one in case you're approached in a semi-public place like the last OP was.

Good luck.

Its crazy to me that this type of shit still happens. I don't think there is anyway to tiptoe around the issue and get a satisfactory outcome. Given your past experience you might think about investing in a [personal alarm] (http://www.amazon.com/Vigilant-Personal-PPS22BL-Batteries-Activation/dp/B005E04MK0). These things are amazingly loud, small and can't be used against you (like mace or a stun gun could). You also might think about a self defense class since you deadfished when that first asshat assaulted you.

The other thing is to document everything! Do it the day it happened! Who did it, when they did it, who you notified etc. If all this goes to court the burden of proof will be yours. Without documentation your chances of winning decrease exponentially.

I'd look into something like this, a really loud panic alarm that fits on your keyring.

Hey Dexosaurus,

I followed you here after creeping from the michael porter comments. Anywho, I got a friend who bought this security camera that came with 4 cameras (upgradeable to 16). He did a lot of research and this was the product that was low-medium price point but highest value/cost ratio (hopefully that makes sense).

It has a HD that records on movement, and has a web interface so you can view everything either on the LAN or even at home if you set it up right. I'm not sure if this is the exact brand but it looks very similar and I think a lot of companies are rebranding one manufacturer's products. These are wired however, but the cables are really really long. We threaded them through the drop ceiling easily. Also the infrared nightvision is really impressive. It automatically turns on the infrared LEDS when it detects the room is dark

http://www.amazon.com/Zmodo-PKD-DK4216-500GB-Internet-Accessible-4-Channel/dp/B005FM8UL4/ref=lp_7161092011_1_1?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1407191028&sr=1-1

musicianspro insurance. The base premium is $150 a year but it covers about $15,000 worth of gear at that level. I've been using them for a few years and have already had to cover a loss (tele fell out of the trailer while touring) and it was a breeze. If you have renter's insurance for your apartment they won't cover gear unless it's on a specific rider and my renter's insurance rider cost would have been higher than the cost of the specific gear insurance, plus a much higher deductible.

I keep all my serial numbers listed on my computer, on an online server and in a small fire safe in my apartment. A good tip is to place a business card or piece of paper with your name and address inside the guitar somewhere like under the pickguard, and somewhere for amps.

Aside from that, lock your doors, don't leave stuff in a car over night, and if you're really worried about break-ins get a cheap DVR camera system.

This is the motion sensor I use. Its fairly cheap, and works pretty well.

I'd go with the following due to their ease of use & all the expandability doors that will open as a result:

• Ecolink Z-Wave PIR Motion Detector, Pet Immune (PIRZWAVE2-ECO) $28 @ Amazon - I own this & have 2 dogs. Read the directions & mount it at the appropriate height & have never had the dogs trigger.
  
• Samsung SmartThings Hub, 2nd Generation - $99 @ Amazon

Had these outside for 4 years works great

Ecolink Z-Wave PIR Motion Detector, Pet Immune (PIRZWAVE2-ECO) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FB1TBKS/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_tai_mm8YBbC8X7QFY

You could look into products utilizing Z-Wave. There's a few modules that can be placed into a box behind switches or above light fixtures, like potentially this one. But you'd still need a Z-Wave controller, something like the SmartThings Hub, perhaps.

EDIT: Here's another Z-Wave wire-in switch. There are even motion sensors like this one and other things that speak Z-Wave.

My setup might work for you.
I have a motion sensor and a open/closed sensor on my garage.

Time is the first trigger I use. From 1/2 before sunset till sunrise + garage door open = light on. When the door closes the light stays on for 10 minutes then turns off (more than enough time to vacate the garage).

Same time as above. If the motion sensor detects motion turn on the light and keep it on until 10 minutes after motion has stopped.

The best place I've found for the motion sensor has been next to the garage door (the big door for the cars). It is pointing into the garage and is able to detect when someone walks into garage from the people door.

I've found the combination of the two(three actual) inputs to be dead reliable. I'm using homeseer so I can't talk to how you would set this up.

I also use the ecolink sensor. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FB1TBKS/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484019434&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

Monoprice ones are just as cheap and have temperature. Garage temperature? Sure, why not. http://www.monoprice.com/mobile/product/details/15271?maincategoryid=122&categoryid=12212&subcategoryid=1091804&cpncd=

Hope that helps.

I have this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FB1TBKS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I set it to less sensitive but it occasionally picks up a cat. I'm sure at a higher sensitivity it will more consistently see cats.

For what you are trying to achieve, z-wave and/or zigbee will do you best. The first thing you are going to need is a smart hub that has z-wave and/or zigbee radios. I use Samsung SmartThings, and it's decent and has both radios. There are other options on the market, but I think SmartThings is probably the most popular one on the market.

I can link you some products that I have in my house that work great with my SmartThings hub, and will work with various other hubs on the market.

Fan Control (speed only, not light)

Motion sensor (You can normally find these for $30 or less)

Door/window sensor

Dimmer switch

Garage door opener

Plug in outlet

I've had one of these for about 8 months now, and its been highly dependable. I use it literally 15+ times a day to turn on lights in my kitchen. Then it monitors my kitchen while I'm away, for added security. It's still reporting 100% battery (no idea how accurate that is). You can also adjust sensitivity to ignore animals, but I can't speak on that feature due to lack of pets. I also wanted a plugin motion detector, but this seems like it will go a year+ on one battery.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FB1TBKS

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FTFYH0U/

I don't have my Vive yet, but I'm reading they're 2.5m or approx 8ft. If you need longer cables you can either use a standard extension cord or something like this should work great for extending the cord itself.

You want a 1.5mm x 3.5mm adapter. Or just an extension if it suits your fancy. If you want an entirely new adapter, make sure it's rating for at least as many amps as the original. I think it's just 1A, but you can double check to make sure.

Scratch that, just reread the title. Thought you were asking for the linkbox. 2.1mm x 5.5mm for the lighthouse/base stations. 2.5A if you want to replace, though I read ~1A should work if you're in a pinch

Rackstuds Smart Rack Mounting System, 100-pack

These?

I would never buy a threaded rack. It's not compliant, it's generally a bad idea and it's extremely unlikely to be compatible with all your equipment. Cage nut fo' fucking life.

That being said, I will probably be using these bad boys on a cage nut rack: http://www.amazon.com/Rackstuds-Smart-Mounting-System-100-pack/dp/B00I348OD0/

Anyone know of a cheap 10GbE router? :P An EdgeRouter won't cut it.

EDIT: Aha, only just realized I'd linked a threaded rack in my post. Here's a better one: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-SR42UBSD-Enclosure-Capacity/dp/B005FLU5Z4/

https://www.amazon.com/GOCONTROL-WNK01-21KIT-Essential-Z-Wave-Security/dp/B00XUXYSWU/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1484259929&sr=1-2&keywords=wink+go+control

I imagine these would work. I use them on my front door.

I'm using a MyQ, it's more expensive but works great.

https://www.amazon.com/GOCONTROL-WNK01-21KIT-Essential-Z-Wave-Security/dp/B00XUXYSWU?ie=UTF8&ref_=cm_cr_arp_d_pdt_img_sims

This is by far the best deal that's been going on for a long time now, so more like standard price (though it goes up to $42 sometimes.)

Not ST brand but compatible and well reviewed. Great price for all three sensors (2 open close and 1 motion). $38 right now.

Its just a zwave motion detector. I took it apart so that it doesn't detect 180 degrees of motion. I just put some white tape on the internal sides of the translucent lens. There is still a bit of light that can come through, but I have that limited to a smaller degree. This is because sunlight can sometimes set the sensor off. I have it secured to my porch ceiling looking straight down. It seems to be very accurate. I suppose if you entered my porch from behind the bushes, you could bypass it, but thats not really the point. I wanted more accurate notifications vs 100 a day. I am using this https://www.amazon.com/GOCONTROL-WNK01-21KIT-Essential-Z-Wave-Security/dp/B00XUXYSWU/

I'm not really having issues with it, its not supposed to be outdoors, the only issue seems to be that after freezing, the temp sensor is inaccurate. That's not really a problem for me. I just hide the temp sensor for that particular device. I originally bought these units because I have a wink system, but I am getting away from that. Really any motion detector would take care of business.

That's a nice price. Too bad they apparently don't work (based on the other article).

The GoControl ones work, but cost more, unless you get them in a kit.

Home Depot link

Apparently, they're rebranded under a lot of names. Monoprice sells them, too. Honestly, I wonder what's inside the one you linked.

I picked them up for $41.23 (check the price history on camelcamelcamel) in this bundle on Amazon

... and these, also at Home Depot, look suspiciously similar.

I'm still experimenting with the motion sensor; once you understand how it sleeps between motion alerts, it seems to be working fine. I installed it at the recommended 6', enabled small pet, and it still detects my cats. I'm entertaining raising it or trying the large pet setting.

The sleep value is programmable with a compatible system, but can't be programmed (currently/if ever?) with Wink. You can override it completely via a jumper (always on), but at cost to battery life.

It also includes a temp sensor that says it updates every 1 degree, but the Wink app will often say it's been 68 for five or more hours; no way the temp in my house is THAT stable. I'm left wondering if it reports temp when there's no motion in the room.

These window/door sensors also have TWO contacts; the first one is obvious (the included internal sensor); there are terminals inside that let you add another external sensor contact; it can sense two doors/windows from the one remote, but Wink doesn't (currently/if ever) respond to the code from the external sensor. I hope they will, as I want to use another on my french door refrigerator. One wireless remote monitoring two door sensors.

I'm using one right now on our freezer, and was able to hide it fairly well, too, especially after removing the magnet from its plastic housing that makes it 5 times the size (and any powerful enough magnet would do the trick); our freezer door has never closed very well, without an extra push ... and is often left .5" - 2" open until someone notices hours later after the temp has risen to 17, it's been running all day trying to get back down to 0, and everthing inside is slushy and covered in frost; we now get an alert if it remains open 3 minutes and 5 minutes.

I plan to get more of those kits from Amazon and use the motion sensors as vacancy sensors to turn off lights in empty rooms.

... and here's a comparison review I just found.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XUXYSWU

This also works great, and you get 2 sensors and a motion sensor for the same price

I put window slide locks on my window.

http://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-9809-Painted-Diecast/dp/B005H3N43K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462114452&sr=8-2&keywords=window+locks

They may help, but what is to stop someone from just kicking the window in? For that I used a vibration alarm system.

http://www.amazon.com/Doberman-Security-SE-0106-4PK-Ultra-Slim-Window/dp/B010HWD65Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462114508&sr=8-1&keywords=vibration+alarm+window

Using those, maybe you can open your window 2-4" to let air circulate, but it would prevent a burglar from opening the window any higher. If they tried to break the window the alarm would go off (even trying to jiggle the window up and down would probably set off a vibrational alarm.

Most keyless entry systems will have some sort of unlock on the other side. This is necessary to allow for quick egress in case of a fire and to allow for unlocking if the batteries die.

Film on the windows is a good idea, along with a glass break sensor on or within sight of the window. If a thief thinks an alarm will go off before they've even entered your house, they'll move on.

However, also know that anything you do to harden this point may just make other entry points more attractive.

Edit: Actually, I don't know how glass break sensors react with window film. Really what you'd want is some sort of impact/vibration sensor. Something like this might work, though really you'd want something wired in to a home alarm system.

Actually those only alarm if the window is opened, not broken. Try these or something like them, instead.

Window break alarm.

Doberman Security SE-0106-4PK Ultra-Slim Window Alarm (4 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010HWD65Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8MQMDb6BDZEBV

And getting these too: https://www.amazon.com/Doberman-Security-SE-0106-4PK-Ultra-Slim-Window/dp/B010HWD65Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481959573&sr=8-3&keywords=window+alarm

I'm starting to add cameras around my house as well. Purchased this set for $440 during a Christmas sale. They were the only 1440p IP cameras I could find under budget. I just have to run network cables around my house to set them up, which will be the biggest pain of the project.

I initially purchased an analog system, like the one you posted, but returned it back to costco. If I'm going to run cables around my house (the biggest pain of the project), I might as well do it with the newer technology.

I found some 4 camera systems at $200, but not with audio. The cheapest 4 camera system I found with audio was Reolink on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Surveillance-Supported-Security-Recording-RLK8-410B4/dp/B01AHXEHSU/ref=sr_1_16?keywords=camera+security+system+with+audio&qid=1564306878&s=gateway&sr=8-16

Gonna be pretty hard to get quality cameras with only $500. Yes, IP cams still record locally to a NVR, analog cameras record to a DVR. Analog is so limited, I could not recommend buying any. IP cams have the quality and clarity you seek. I would look into Reolink IP cameras, which can be purchased on Amazon, something like this.

I am using this one: https://www.amazon.com/Reolink-Business-Security-Waterproof-RLK8-410B4/dp/B01AHXEHSU/ Really good for my house.

I am using the Reolink camera for my own house and love it. And I add one for my parents' house on the Amazon Prime Day. Given you budget and requirement, you can try this security system out https://www.amazon.com/Reolink-Security-Channel-Outdoor-RLK8-410B4/dp/B01AHXEHSU/ref=sr_1_4?m=A15NUCR7ITLOD6&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1499940771&sr=1-4. Not sure it still has discounts. Hope it can help you!

What do you think of this NVR setup?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AHXEHSU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I know it may not be as good as going with a PC and blue iris but it's cheaper and much easier.

Got it, thank you!
I started googling Reolink after your mention and found this link. Reolink has way more mentions than Qsee online so I'm thinking about going with that instead.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AHXEHSU/

[Here you go] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01AHXEHSU/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1504490091&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=reolink+security+camera+system&dpPl=1&dpID=41rQvnwSqIL&ref=plSrch)

It is sounding like they might be a good option then.

I'm concerned about security with remote streaming. If you check out the first review here you'll see somebody mentioned it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/cr/B01AHXEHSU/

This person mentioned a concern also: https://reolink.com/topic/issues-that-reolink-has-not-resolved/#post-26468

Other than that it is really looking good.

What have your clients said about the system? Any complaints?

You could go all smart things but I went with smart things for the hub and these sensors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AKSO80O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_secEybHE1J6W7
They were on sale for ~$25 a piece when I bought them. Also if you lose power or wifi the smartthings servers alerts you, doesn't help with the heating issue, but at least you know to check on things.

I am in the middle of returning my monoprice sensor. Mine was constantly detecting motion in a closed bathroom. I own the zooz 4 in 1 sensor and have been quite happy with it and only bought the other to save a few dollars. I now own two of the zooz and am happy with both of them. I have the aeotec zwave gen 5 stick running with home Assistant. I originally thought that the monoprice was a knock off of the original but found either that to be not true it their software to be much worse. Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AKSO80O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_9NlOAbT8EG6GF

I have this, works well with my Smarthings but battery needs replacement after 6 months. ZOOZ Z-Wave 4-in-1 Sensor ZSE40 (motion / light / temperature / humidity) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AKSO80O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rs3Zzb6B8GN8J

Here is the IR lamp you can find on Amazon:

SECURITY 4pcs High Power LED IR Array Illuminator IR Lamp Wide Angle for Night Vision CCTV and IP Camera [https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01D73XM24/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_gZLAsFbs8ZRwS]

No, but if you want to play in the dark you can buy an infrared illuminator.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Infrared-Illuminator-Power-Vision-Camera/dp/B01D73XM24/

WDR is great for certain situations sadly not this one, what you need is more IR lighting.
Here’s a quick video about WDR
https://www.axis.com/en-ca/technologies/forensic-wdr .
There are some cameras that will work in very low light conditions the Axis cameras with their lightfinder technology is great or the starlight cameras are amazing failing that something like https://www.amazon.com/Univivi-Infrared-Illuminator-Waterproof-Security/dp/B01G6K407Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=ir+illuminator&qid=1568064140&s=gateway&sr=8-4 would help a lot , try a magazine with a face on it put it on your vehicle so you can see how good it looks. Though you don’t seem to have a definition problem just a lighting issue. Hope this is some help to you.

What I want to know is whether something like this can light up the room for the cameras.

They obviously see infrared (the controllers use them), so lighting up the room with non-visible light could be a way to get a dark room with decent tracking. It depends if the IR light is too bright and blots out the controllers tracking (though tracking still works on the Rift in the sun, it's just a bit flaky)

I got these, but off eBay. There are hundreds of Chinese brands all selling probably the exact same device.

https://www.amazon.com/Crazy-48-LED-Infrared-Vision-Illuminator/dp/B0067S8IZ8/

Works very well, although the beam is on the narrow side. I have two of them covering a 120 degree sweep and they are very very bright.

My next purchase would however be these, the LEDs seem to be EXIR rather than the standard IR LED: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G6K407Q?psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Strips-Sensative-Z-Wave-Window-Contact/dp/B01LWMTUI8 This could work

Just two clarify, we have metioned 2 sensors here:

1. Abode Thin Door sensor
   
   
2. Sensative Thin Strips
   
   For the Abode sensor, you can ask here.
   
   For the Sensative sensor, more people might be familiar with it in the other Reddit.
   
   You might want to go with the Sensative sensor because it's thinner.
   

I've started using these and have been very impressed with how well they work. They're also completely hidden which is nice.

There's this... but it says not for metal gates...

Sensative Z-Wave Sensors

https://www.amazon.com/Sensative-Z-Wave-Contact-Outdoor-Installation/dp/B01LWMTUI8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542682535&sr=8-3&keywords=door+sensor+thin

​

This thin Z-wave strip is almost invisible and would suit your purpose.

Sensative Strips Z-Wave Plus Ultra Thin Door/Window Contact Sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWMTUI8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FkA-yb1D03X36

You could create an IFTTT recipe that would set your Nest to Away when open and Home when closed. I'd imagine you could just use your ST hub to do it as well, I'm pretty sure Nest integrates with ST but I've not used it all that much.

Check out the Sensative strip sensors too - these look slick (and no drilling needed).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LWMTUI8/nothingreal
They also claim up to 10 years of battery life (but there's no way to change batteries - they're effectively disposable at that point.)

I just got an email from Abode saying they plan to support them 'in the near future'.

Why not get a garage door sensor or a smart plug that the humidifier is plugged into?

Z-wave Plus Gold Plated Reliability Garage Door Tilt Sensor, White (TILT-ZWAVE2.5-ECO) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRZB0NT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IjkGAb652W3A7

Ecolink TLT-ZWAVE2. In the 3 years I've had it, I've seen once or twice that I missed a status change, but I don't know what was actually at fault. I know one other person with one (who I heard about it from), and haven't heard any complaints from him.

I did it with a relay switch and wired it to the garage opener. I also needed to wire a power cord to it so that I can plug it into a Z-wave Plug-in switch. Then I set a rule on my hub to switch it on and off immediately. This action replicates the shorting of the wire that a normal garage button does. This method is easiest compatibility since you can use whatever Plug-in switch that works with your hub, and it also acts as another repeater for your other z-wave devices.

This site goes into more details on how to wire everything: http://24-7-home-security.com/how-to-make-a-smart-garage-door-opener-that-works-with-any-protocol/

I also bought the Z-wave tilt sensor and mount on the garage door, which lets me know when the garage is opened or closed.

I don't know about benefits of one over the other, but ZWave tilt sensors certainly exist. The one I bought from Amazon is no longer available but there's this one for the same price: https://smile.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Plated-Reliability-Garage-TILT-ZWAVE2-5-ECO/dp/B01MRZB0NT/ref=sr_1_3?crid=25P535CRX31DE&keywords=zwave+garage+door+sensor&qid=1550239563&s=electronics&sprefix=zwave+gara%2Celectronics%2C121&sr=1-3

Mine is solid and works well.

Those are called ‘tilt sensors ’

Another option is to use a simple contact but you’ll need a GPIO and that till drive up your costs

added links
words

I use one of these and recommend it if you're in a Z-Wave environment (Smartthings, etc).

I bought these from Amazon.com and they work perfectly with Medium-sized Command strips. I've put them up on the walls in two apartments so far with no shifting or any issues whatsoever.

I think these are the same 3D print, but you might have to look on eBay to buy only 2 or 3 of them, depending upon your setup.

Here's the Thingiverse page for the sensor mounts I have.

https://www.amazon.com/Oculus-Compatible-Sensor-Mounts-Black/dp/B06XR8DL7T/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=rift+wall+mount+sensor&qid=1564851212&s=gateway&sr=8-1

:P

CLEAR YOUR AREA!


you can get 3d printed wall mounts for your sensors that stick on with double sided tape off of amazon


try to not put all the usb cables on the same usb controller, or get a powered usb 3.0 hub, otherwise the sensors overload the controller and the sensors wont work


games i recommend:

• windlands-basically spider-man simulator, dont try if you get motion sickness easily
  
  
  
• robo recall-really fun fps, great humor
  
  
  
• lone echo/echo arena-zero-g antics, lone echo is a single player story while echo arena is a multiplayer team based game
  
  
  
• super hot-time moves when you do
  
  
  
• skyrim VR-its skyrim, in VR, 11/10 recommended
  
  
  
• space pirate trainer-arcade wave based shooter

Hey! Oculus Rift Sensor Mount Black (4 pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XR8DL7T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Gf5Ti6K6PW8TW

They come with adhesive strips too but name brand command strips are usually better

hey syster/broder

Amazon.co.uk samma produkt minus aidsfrakten

finns andra billigare säljare tror jag, sök runt lite, jag köpte ett 2pack för några månader sen för typ 10 pund

This was my first wall mounts:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XR8DL7T/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In terms of what they are, they're fine. They attach to the wall with command strips. My problem with them was that the command strips didn't adhere well enough, and kept falling off my wall. I could have bought better command strips I suppose, but I went with something different.

Since I don't have any problem with putting holes in my wall, these were my second wall mounts:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HMNJIO6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So far I've had no problem with these.

I got my headset used for $299 in like new condition. was used once for a demo
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073X8N1YW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

3rd Sensor plugged into an USB 2.0 port on computer
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0727WDPX6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rechargeable AA batteries and charger
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JHKSL1O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB Expansion card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Headset and touch wall mount
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0781G75B5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wall Mount used for rear left sensor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XR8DL7T/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cable management system
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073P7GJNP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mount clip used for front left sensor on shelf
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MG4D3O5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI extension for headset, only one used.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ519KC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2 pack 6 feet USB 3.0 extension cables, one used for front right sensor and one used for headset
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFL6ARO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sensor ceiling mount used for front right sensor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IDCDZY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3 foot usb 3.0 extension used for front left senor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S1B4W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cleaning Cloths
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NR9S3EQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Oculus Rift Facial Interface & Foam Replacement Basic Set
https://vrcover.com/product/oculus-rift-facial-interface-foam-replacement-basic-set/

Photo of final setup
https://ibb.co/exkWXx

I have had no issues at all, this setup working very well for me.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XR8DL7T/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used these to hang rift sensors in three corners of a room and have been pleasantly surprised. They're hanging about six and a half feet up the wall, with the USB cable (and USB extension in one case) hanging, otherwise unsupported down to the floor. Despite that weight (sensor + cables + mount) they've stayed firmly in place since putting them up four months ago.

I had purchased cctv-style wall mounts as well, but decided on giving the linked mounts a chance first as this room is in a newly purchased home, and I'm still in that "want to avoid making unneeded holes in the walls" phase. At this point I have no intention of using the cctv-style mounts.

I have these

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G72SQXB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_urEBDbHVD873C

Taped up the seam and a little silicone to further seal the lense area and they've been good to go

u/DrFunStuffs, I just finished mounting a weatherproof housed V2 onto my vinyl siding - see here. I did a combination of screwing the housing mounts into the siding + using an installer bit to drill a hole through the house.

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Then ran cable through and sealed up with silicone caulk on both sides.

1. Yes .. these and I love them https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G732B9J/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
2. Nope! And this past summer I've been through 100°F days, full sun, 60MPH winds, sideways 3" rain storms ... and now this winter -20°F nights, snow, ice, rain .... rain that then flash freezes.
   
   
3. Each exterior camera is mounted to window trim. The included USB cables running through the window to an outlet nearby. The flat cable makes this practical because it doesn't interfere with the window weather stripping.
   
   
4. a) Mounted to first story window exterior trim, covered front porch b) mounted to second story window exterior trim looking down at driveway, enclosure fully exposed to elements c) mounted to second story window exterior trim looking down at pool, enclosure fully exposed to elements d) mounted to wall in garage
   
   
5. Patriot 32GB SD in each for all-time recording, sending clips to the cloud. Waiting to hear about RTSP to make a decision on the upcoming storage device. (really, really hoping for RTSP)

1. Yes using an enclosure. See my set up here. Link go Amazon mounts I ordered. They are not water proof but help keep water off. I mounted under eaves to help.
   
   
2. No issue with elements. Has been -32F air temp and -55 WC and no issues.
   
   
3. Powering by using a light socket to plug adapter (last photo in link above).
   
   
4. Attaches under eaves. I have 2 cameras mounted outside one at each door.
   
   
5. Using Samsung Evo 32 GB SD card. 32 GB IS max it can take I believe.

You could try mounting sensor on top of door and magnetic contact on molding. Use two faced tape to test before using Ring supplied mounting options. Secure mounting on molding is a common problem. Here is another option https://www.amazon.com/Sensative-Z-Wave-Contact-Outdoor-Installation/dp/B01LWMTUI8 The sensor is compatible with Ring (Z Wave) and can, as I understand, be added as a sensor manually in Ring App. But, it won't have full functionality (no alarm trigger). It will only provide a chime when opened and notifications. You could also consider going without the door sensor and set up a Ring motion detector. If the door is opened, it's very likely someone will walk through.

This is a slim as it gets:

https://www.amazon.com/Strips-Sensative-Z-Wave-Window-Contact/dp/B01LWMTUI8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Only concern is the "claimed" 10 year battery life, if this thing dies after 2 years then its a terrible value...

Which garage door sensor?

I recently bought the EcoLink sensor (which many vendors rebrand) and it’s worked fairly well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRZB0NT/

https://www.amazon.com/Camera-Bracket-Weather-Security-Outdoor/dp/B07G732B9J/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540912339&sr=8-3&keywords=wyze+cam+mount&dpID=31Dp-ciM4nL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

​

There are many options, one being google