These are parts I use consistently in my labs
Capacitor kit


Resistor kit


Jumper wires


Bread board(s)


Larger breadboard. Recommended for larger projects but I haven’t used it too much. Best for large IC circuits


Multimeter. This has all the right features

Other things that can be useful:


•Wire strippers


•Pliers


•Electrical Tape


•Tackle Box or tool bag (to carry everything)


•Flat jumper wires


As you get into classes you’ll need specific parts (transistors, logic gates etc) but this should get you started. I use the things I linked in every lab weekly.

Feel free to message me with any questions.

1. yes, ideally you need an external supply. It can be a wall wart type, a battery pack, or a brick type - anything that gives a DC supply suitable for your motor should be fine.
   
   
2. I prefer the pre-cut jumpers. either solid or flexible are fine for breadboards. I also have a bunch of this type which are very useful to link between the breadboard/arduino/devices, and keep things much neater than with seperate jumpers.
   
   

Honestly getting this was one of the best decisions I ever made:

https://www.amazon.com/AUSTOR-Lengths-Assorted-Preformed-Breadboard/dp/B07CJYSL2T

Breadboard

Also a Breadboard

"A breadboard (or protoboard)"

The terms aren't as clear as you are claiming. Solderless breadboards are also called "protoboards". And solderable PCB boards with pre-drilled holes are also called "breadboards". If you want everyone to understand you, you need to be more explicit than just "breadboard" or "protoboard".

Replace the Arduino with a Teensy3.2; it runs Arduino code and is very small in comparison (with more RAM than the Arduino Uno). Solder the connections to the Teensy. Power the Teensy directly from the battery bank and use a micro USB breakout to convert the battery bank's output to wires that can be soldered into the Teensy. The LEDs should receive power in parallel, not in series. I've found the capacitor unnecessary in every wearable LED project I've done. If you only have single-core wire, helix the three strands together to make a neater cable. I usually build a holster from a coat hanger to hold the battery pack on the hat. It can also go in your pocket.

You can go pretty cheap but the absolute bottom of the barrel Aliexpress ones might have some contact issues. For peripherals it might be good to get this which gives you USB or barrel jack switching, switchable 3.3V/5V, and powers your rails. You also would want a set of prebent jumpers or jumper wire depending on whether you want board cleanliness or ease of routing, respectively.

Not OP, but do you mean the perfboard or teensy?

I'm not sure what level you're at and I'm beginner myself so I'll just go over the stuff I've been doing. Maybe this stuff is super obvious.

> an incomprehensible jumble of jumper wires

If you're not using them already, the pre-cut and pre-bent wires are awesome for keeping things tidy (eg these).

> tightly packed components

Have multiple breadboards - they're like $3-5 at Tayda. The ones that clip together are handy. Having extra real estate to spread things out is invaluable. Although having long jumper wires can introduce more oscillations and noise once you've got things working you can always make things a bit more compact.

Use the buses - the outer two rows that run the length of the board for your power and ground. Use the columns of 5 for your signal path. This way you can just run jumpers up and down for your power/ground. Or if, for example, you have a resistor going to ground you can just connect it directly to the ground bus.

If you use a certain bit of circuitry in a lot of your builds consider making it on veroboard and having it off-board. I've built standard power filtering and reverse polarity protection on vero. You could do the same with something like a voltage doubler or inverter if you're always reusing them. Although it's only a few components it's a bit less on your breadboard and saves you redoing the same thing every time you BB up a circuit.

Try and lay out things as close as they look on the schematic as possible. Ground at the bottom, voltage from the top, signal running left to right. And if you can, down to the individual components. This can be hard sometimes, especially when dealing with transistors/3+ pin devices.

If you've got an old enclosure or something lying around where you can setup your off-board stuff to keep them all tidy makes things easier too. This guide from the Beavis Audio website is a good example. There's a few layout tips in that PDF also. There's also some sample layouts that might be worth a look over for some examples on how to layout certain circuit elements.

Not necessarily related to layout but a few other things I've found:

Test constantly - audio probe and DMM/voltmeter. Grab one of those little pocket battery amps (eg this one for $20) to have on your bench if testing with your real amp is a PITA.

I keep a printed copy of the resistor colour codes on the wall in front of my bench, makes it easy to glance up and check because yeah no way I'm memorising those any time soon.

Draw the pinouts for any ICs/transistors/things with more than two pins on your schematic for quick reference.

Have a decent understanding of the circuit first and how the stages work. I like to redraw stuff in KiCad/Eagle - forces me to learn what connects where. It's a lot easier when you can look at your board and go 'oh I'm missing a resistor that should be connected to the drain' (or whatever) without having to reference your schematic for everything.

I've also found I've been more successful when I'm putting things together to say in my head "signal goes through 68k resistor to gate", "1M resistor connects from gate to ground", "220p cap from gate to ground" etc etc, rather than just going "this thing connects to that". Helps you understand the circuit better and will make you then ask yourself things like "which pin on this component is the gate?".

Like I said, I'm still learning, so if I've said anything blatantly wrong feel free to call me out, always up for getting better.

Get one of these guys, you will most likely need one for any of your lab classes anyway. Look up some simple circuit schematics, and learn to build, it can be much fun. I like this project, and your local radioshack or other electronics place will have everything you need to get started. That chip is an LMC555, a simple 8 pin timer. Once you get in the lab you will presumably have high end multimeters, power supplies, and function generators, but it is good to have a feel for building circuits before you get there, it will put you ahead of your classmates and make your labs a breeze.

You won't be able to do much without either a breadboard or a soldering iron+solder, and in the long run, breadboarding will pay for itself (being that you are a beginner).

Good luck!

Hey there everyone! Sorry for the late followup. I've been unpacking from graduation and the like... Also, as a neat update to my earlier post, I was just contacted by the College Football Hall of Fame to display my cap in the Hall for a few weeks. Neat!

Unfortunately, I didn't take pictures during the build process, but here's my general construction setup.

Supplies needed:

• [12,000 mAh portable battery pack on Amazon (might be overkill)]
  (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SSY1AJU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• Teensy 3.2 microcontroller running Arduino firmware
  
  
• 32x32 LED matrix with 6mm pitch
  
  
• [SmartMatrix SD Shield v3 - for Teensy 3.2]
  (https://www.adafruit.com/product/1902)
  
  
• Solder/Soldering iron
  
• Boxcutter
  
• LOTS of hot glue
  
• Male USB-male barrel jack cable (or a means to create one. Just requires cutting and soldering two wires together)
  
• MicroSD cards (Formatted in FAT32)
  
  Steps:
  
  

1. The first step is to assemble your SmartMatrix SD Shield, as described in the tutorial here. This attachment will allow you to easily connect your Teensy 3.2 microcontroller to your 32x32 matrix, as well as display animated GIFs off of an SD card. Follow all of the steps, and make sure to cut the connections on the board where the guide indicates.
   
   
2. Download the Arduino IDE here.
   
   
3. Install the Teensy Loader Application for your Arduino IDE here.
   
   
4. Connect your Teensy 3.2 to your Arduino IDE.
   
   
5. You will need to install the SmartMatrix Library for Arduino, located here. If you need information about correctly installing Arduino libraries, go here.
   
   
6. I based my project off of the SmartMatrix Library's AnimatedGIFs example, located in File, Examples, SmartMatrix_32x32, AnimatedGIFs. The guide located here may also be useful. Documentation on scrolling text is also located on the SmartMatrix Github.
   
   
7. The 32x32 LED display will not lay perfectly flat on a mortarboard with the SmartMatrix SD Shield and Teensy 3.2 attached. You will need to do some cutting from the top of the mortarboard and assembly with hot glue to make it stay. I mounted the LED display to the mortarboard with the display's included four mounting screws that attach to the back of the display.
   
   
8. Plug in your USB battery to the barrel jack on the SmartMatrix SD shield, and verify that the Arduino is powered and the display is operational
   
   
9. Success!
   
   General Information
   
   

• YES I realize I mounted the display a little crooked, and it bothers me as much as it does you... Cut me some slack though, it was 2AM the night before graduation and I'd already hacked half the cardboard in my mortarboard to shreds :P
  
  
• The 32x32 LED matrix typically draws around 2A, ~4A MAX when all LEDs are white and at full intensity. The 2A from the USB battery should do the trick though, and will likely last for around 4-5 hours.
  
  
• Total build cost was around $70-80
  
  
• Total time to build was roughly ten hours.
  
  
• In order to display animated GIFs correctly, they will need to be formatted as 32x32 .gif files on the SD card. Sizing, as well as where to put the GIFs is covered in the guide in Step 6.
  
  Picture of the Grad Cap During Graduation
  
  
• http://i.imgur.com/tEyHURP.jpg
  
  Link to Source Video
  
  
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A-VXwk23DyI&
  
  Arduino Source Code
  
  
• http://pastebin.com/yBsZisqG

If you don't want to use a PS/2 to USB adapter, you have a couple of options. One somewhat difficult and one very easy. For both, you'll need to open up the keyboard with a tool like this.

The more difficult way is to use Soarer's Converter software running on a Teensy 2.0. This involves soldering the Teensy to the appropriate pins on the Model M's original controller and flashing the Soarer's Converter software to the Teensy.

I did this with an IBM Model F (AT) and it works great: https://imgur.com/a/ge80k

The easiest option is to purchase a replacement controller from Phosphor Glow. For this, you'll open up the keyboard, remove the original controller and put the new one in. No soldering involved unless you opt for the kit instead of the fully assembled and ready to go board.

I did this on one of my Model M keyboards: https://imgur.com/a/NY78q

This is a Sky Quality Meter used for measuring the light pollution and skyglow at your location. It outputs values in uW/cm^2 for the infrared
and visible specturm and your limiting magnitude in Mag/arcsec^2.


It should be mentioned that these are all Amazon Prime links with two day shipping. If you can wait longer then, you can certainly get these components for far cheaper.

Rocker switch
http://smile.amazon.com/10Pcs-Round-Button-Rocker-Switch/dp/B00AKVBEN6
10 PCS @ $2.47 = $.25

Pushbutton
http://smile.amazon.com/Momentary-Tactile-Push-Button-Switch/dp/B00974ZGPE
10 PCS @ $5.59 = $.56

TSL2591 (High range light meter)
http://smile.amazon.com/Adafruit-TSL2591-Dynamic-Digital-ADA1980/dp/B00XW2OFWW
$11.44

MSP420 Stim32 I2C 128x64 OLED display
http://smile.amazon.com/SMAKN%C2%AE-Serial-128x64-Display-Arduino/dp/B010V0I8DY
$10.80

Arduino Pro Mini 16Mhz
http://smile.amazon.com/Enhancement-ATMEGA328P-Compatible-Arduino-TE362/dp/B015MGHLNA
5 PCS @ $15.99 = $3.20

5V Voltage Regulator
http://smile.amazon.com/Addicore-Positive-Regulator-L7805CV-Antistatic/dp/B00H7KTRO6
5 PCS @ $5.95 = $1.19

Grand total $27.44

You will also need an enclosure and a battery box or some other way of connecting power to the voltage regulator. I 3D-printed my enclosure but, I'm sure you can get
them cheap. As for a battery box, I use this:
http://smile.amazon.com/WAYLLSHINE-Battery-Spring-Plastic-Holder/dp/B019XT18IQ
6 PCS @ $6.98 = $1.16

I have no idea how to price the electrical tape you're going to need in order to cover the miniature star that is the power LED on the Pro Mini.

I suppose you could just desolder it. I'm not that brave. I used a 1/2 piece of black tape and blanketed the LED. Hopefully, not that much light will leak.

Edit edit: This Monoprice DAC/amp is very similar to the V30's audio. Same DAC, same output voltage:

https://smile.amazon.com/Monolith-Hi-Res-DAC-Headphone-Amp/dp/B07BP2WYKZ/

If you do more custom circuit board jobs in the future you may want to get a kit similar to this one. They are meant for breadboard applications but I found they are perfect for custom circuits made on those DIY boards.

You'd need to disconnect the antenna, yes... but I'd take a guess that the meter you posted won't read capacitance that low anyways. I've had very good luck with this meter when measuring small capacitances, including variables: https://www.amazon.com/Multifunction-transistor-Capacitor-Inductance-screwdriver/dp/B071Y5CHPK it seems to measure down to about 25pf.

The other thing is you might be measuring at the wrong points on the cap. Pay close attention to the mechanism and how it's connected. Put the meter on continuity, and put the leads to the points where you were testing. If you have DC continuity, you're using the wrong points.

I'm an ECE that got into Raspberry Pi about a month ago. I work in microelectronics (chip design), and wanted to use it to get back into larger scale electronics hacking and to do some more hardware oriented programming and projects.

As such, I had to basically reform my electronics gadget supply at the same time since I ditched my college collection a while back when moving to a new house.

Here's some of the key things I bought to go with my Pi that I felt I needed. I'm assuming you're like me and want to work on electronics hardware (lights, switches, etc).

• Raspberry Pi B+ : I wanted the larger sized one with more memory and USB ports as the prototype environment. As I get stuff fully working, then I plan to buy an A+ for the implementation environment. I bought the Canakit Ultimate Starter Kit on Amazon
  
• You'll want a good microSD card. I swapped out the 8GB one from the Canakit for a 16GB one since I want to store some data on the card for a project I have in mind
  
• A case : I used the one from the Canakit
  
• A USB keyboard. The Logitech K400 is nice (just make sure to pair it on a PC first), or the Rii i8 Mini work nice (I have both)
  
• If you want an onboard display, look at the PiTFT from Adafruit. I used that for my initial setup, then set up my Pi to autostart a VNC server on boot and now I work without a display. If you don't want the PiTFT, you can use a TV or a monitor if it supports HDMI (or a regular monitor with an HDMI to DVI adapter).
  
• If hardware hacking, a breadboard and cobbler board : You'll want a breadboard for prototyping electronics projects before soldering to a PCB, and a cobbler board to connect the pin header of the Raspberry to your breadboard. I used the one from the Canakit but there are various ones out there you can buy
  
• To go with a breadboard, I suggest flexible breadboard wire. These or these would work.
  
• If hardware hacking, you'll want LEDs, switched, and resistors/capacitors. I really like these resistors (they came bagged and labelled), the LEDs I started out with from Radio Shack, and for switches I really like these ones. They snap right into a breadboard. The caps I just got at RadioShack.
  
• You may want to grab a multimeter as well. I have two myself with different functions (one for logic probing mainly).
  
  Beyond those basic starter components, the rest is up to your imagination and what you want to do next. In my case, I plan to drive higher current components, so I'll be using optocouples and relays eventually. And I plan to make my own PCBs to snap onto the Raspberry, so I have PCBs, headers, and soldering stuff.
  
  If you're new to the Raspberry, there's online resources out there. I also got this book off Amazon as a starter as well, which I've been coupling with online resources.
  
  On the Arduino side, that's my next purchase since I may find it easier to have the software and server side of one of my projects on a Pi, and the hardware interface on an Arduino. I'm just going to get an R3 board to start since I have the rest of the stuff they usually include in a starter pack listed above.
  
  This blog did a nice writeup comparing some Arduino R3 starter kits:
  https://www.pretzellogix.net/2014/10/09/three-arduino-starter-kits-compared-and-reviewed/

To start off you can buy a Teensy 2.0 and follow Hasu's guide. If you need help in the future a PM is welcome.

Thanks. the case and blue keycap are both 3d printed. total cost not including the case and cap is $60 or less. The backlight is not RBG, but I think I've seen some that are.

Big Switch

Teensy 2.0

10mm LED

Switches: any two MX switches will work. NovelKeys has a big selection.

PCB Breadboard? (https://www.amazon.com/Solderable-BreadBoard-matches-tie-point-breadboards/dp/B0040Z6OK6). Thats how those LED graphs are meant to be used. I think that, in addition with resistor packs, would help keep the wiring fairly tidy. Check out this tutorial: https://create.arduino.cc/projecthub/ejshea/led-bar-graph-and-switch-array-8467e0

Really?

https://www.amazon.com/60kHz-atomic-clock-radio-module/dp/B01KH3VEGS

Amazon says this one is in stock. I know there are older boards that aren't made anymore... but in anycase, I'm wondering if I even need the board (and instead can pass a lot of the processing to the ATMega)

I actually didn't tally up the cost as that wasn't really of a concern to me, but I'll try my best to provide links to the things I bought for this. Feel free to add it up for me!

• Lighting
  
  • T-5 Grow light (came with 6500K bulbs)
    
  • 2700K bulbs
    
  • Grow light hangers
    
• Grow medium
  
  • Net Cups
    
  • Black Buckets
    
  • Black lids
    
• Nutrients
  
  • General Hydroponics Flora Series
    
  • General Hydroponics pH control kit
    
  • pH/EC/Temp Meters
    
• Grow tent
  
• Air ventilation
  
  • The only thing I ended up using from this kit was the cheapest part, the ventilation duct...
    
  • The fan from this kit is way too powerful for my setup because my humidifier couldn't keep up
    
  • I didn't use the carbon filter because I'm not growing weed.
    
• Water Distiller
  
• Humidifier
  
  • The cheaper the humidifier, the better. I first bought (and destroyed) one that had some sort of digital switch, so it would always be in the off state when you first supply power to it, meaning you can't turn it on/off with just a relay.
    
• Plumbing
  
  • Aquatec 8852 booster pump
    
  • 2 Gallon accumulator tank
    
  • Pressure relief valve
    
  • Tubing
    
  • Inline Pre-filter (Sorry they must have taken the product down...)
    
  • Misting nozzle T's
    
  • Tube ball valves
    
  • Analog pressure gauge
    
  • Misting Nozzles
    
    • Note that these nozzles are meant for WAY higher pressure systems (~1000psi) and I actually had to take out the spring for them to operate correctly, but they never clogged up, are easy to clean, and worked perfectly for me!
      
• Electronics
  
  • Raspberry Pi 3 kit
    
  • Humidity sensor
    
  • Pressure sensor
    
  • Water solenoid valve
    
  • 5V 4-channel relay module
    
  • Analog-to-digital converter
    
  • 24V to 12V converter
    
  • 24V Power supply
    
  • Resistor kit
    
  • Semiconductor kit
    
  • Circuit boards
    
  • Standoffs
    
• Wiring
  
  • 22 gauge stranded wire
    
  • 22 gauge solid wire
    
  • Power supply cord
    
• Connectors
  
  • Electronic Connectors
    
    • JST-XHP Connectors
      
    • JST-SM Connectors
      
    • Dupont Connectors
      
  • Plumbing Connectors
    
    • Bulkhead connectors
      
    • Quick-connect kit
      
    • NPT to quick-connect connector
      
      I also bought various tools, like crimpers, Dremel kit, drill, etc, but I don't consider those to be project-specific as I'll have them for the foreseeable future. Let me know if there's anything you see that you think I missed!
      

You can also buy protoboards that have the holes joined just like a breadboard! They can be really handy for some circuits.
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B0040Z6OK6

Hey guys! While I wait for the rest of my planck parts to arrive I figured I'd build a little 3x3 macro board using my keyswitch tester. I have a teensy 2.0 I got from here. I've soldered the three rows of diodes/grounds together, but I have no clue as to what to do next, is there a guide I could follow or something? The closest thing I've found online is this but it doesn't go into very much detail about the wiring and i have no idea how it carries over to a board this small.

You could also use an LM7805.

https://www.amazon.com/Addicore-Positive-Regulator-L7805CV-Antistatic/dp/B00H7KTRO6/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1468861711&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=lm7805

It really depends on what you're looking to do. I realize at this point you probably don't even know what that is, but a general idea would help.

But for starters, you could get general things like:

• Breadboard - I'd recommend a longer (more than 30 rows), the side-by-side or just multiple. The 30 row size are great, but you'll find you run out of room fast, and having spares for multiple projects is a must. Or just grab a big one so you never have to worry about space, but they can be awkward to use.
  
• Jumper Wires - Start with the flexible ones first not the pre-formed, they're easier to work with. Though I have hundreds of both.
  
• LEDs - Just an assortment of any color and/or some RGB. You may not have any LED specific projects in mind, but they're great for supplying feedback on project (i.e. is a device getting power, etc).
  
• Resistors - Standard values are anywhere between 100-500 ohm, but you'll probably need some 1k & 10k too. Lower values for LEDs, higher values for pull-up or pull-down, etc. Check eBay, you can often get a big grab-bag of values from 1-100k ohm for < $10.
  
• Capacitors - Needed for decoupling inputs, or switch bounce. You'll prob be fine with a few .1uF.
  
• Potentiometer - Handy for a variable input device. 500 or 1k are good starting values.
  
• Switches - Get a few different kind: slide, push-button, etc. Be sure they're usable w/ a breadboard though (e.g. not solder lugs).
  
• Speaker/mic - Just another type of input/output to play with
  
• Battery holders - Either 9v or 3AA to power devices since the arduino can only provide a limited amount
  
  The rest is kinda up to what you want to do, but some other suggestions would be:
  
  
• Sensors (IR, ultra-sonic, distance, temp, light, etc.)
  
• 7-segment display and driver IC
  
• LCD module
  
• Relay
  
• Motor (DC brushed or servo)
  
• Joystick
  
• OpAmp
  
  These kinds of things you'd only need one to test/play with, then if you find a specific application/project, you can order more.
  

You are looking for something along these lines:

https://amazon.com/Converter-192kHz-Techole-Aluminum-Converter-Headphone/dp/B07MPF4F68/ref=sr_1_4?crid=27BU29OQEP1Y&keywords=toslink+to+rca+converter&qid=1563574281&s=electronics&sprefix=tosl%2Celectronics%2C160&sr=1-4

​

https://amazon.com/ROOFULL-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Optical/dp/B07142SV1D/ref=sr_1_3?crid=27BU29OQEP1Y&keywords=toslink+to+rca+converter&qid=1563574281&s=electronics&sprefix=tosl%2Celectronics%2C160&sr=1-3

​

Or, if you are insane & wealthy:

https://www.berkeleyaudiodesign.com/alpha-dac-reference-series-3

​

p.s. I believe you will need something like this if you don't have it already:

​

https://amazon.com/JSAUX-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Compatible-Smartphones/dp/B07D8M5DML/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=RCA+male+too+3.5&qid=1563574516&s=electronics&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1

​

https://amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=RCA+male+too+3.5&qid=1563574516&s=electronics&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1

You can just buy one of those cheap LCR/component tester jobbies. They're not as good as a real inductance meter but for basic identification they're fine, great for lots of other quick measurements too.


https://www.amazon.com/Multifunction-transistor-Capacitor-Inductance-screwdriver/dp/B071Y5CHPK

Buy some of these.

These are handy too for connecting to modules with header pins.

Don't get too hung up on making everything nice and neat, if you try to get everything tight to the board and the leads all routed straight it just makes it harder to change things.

What you're looking for is a headphone amplifier or a DAC, though I'm not seeing very many headphone amps with TOSLink (optical) built-in. You could use a converter to go from TOSLink to RCA and then use a headphone amp to go from RCA to your headphones. I found this guy on Amazon, but I don't know anything about it and cannot in any way vouch for its quality: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Converter-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003XCHCLC

Alternatively, if you hook up a home theater system most receivers have a 1/4" jack on them (but that's a lot of expense if you're just trying to get a headphone connection).

EDIT: Ah! After a bit of searching, I think I found exactly what you need: https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Supports-control/dp/B06XDLCHY7/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1538502346&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=toslink+to+RCA&psc=1

At $22 it's not going to be all that great, but it will get you the connection you're looking for. This will probably sound about as good as the output from your iPod, but it won't compare to a proper headphone amp. If you want a high quality setup, you'll want a high quality DAC paired with a headphone amp.

What headphones are you using?

Monoprice monolith DAC/amp $66 down from $94

https://www.amazon.com/Monolith-Hi-Res-DAC-Headphone-Amp/dp/B07BP2WYKZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_35?ie=UTF8&qid=1542920645&sr=8-35&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dac&dpPl=1&dpID=21VW8V4R%2BmL&ref=plSrch

Here's a diagram - https://imgur.com/a/oS7iO7I

And here are the parts (doorbell not included):

1. Sonoff SV
   
2. Bridge Rectifier
   
3. Capacitor
   
   I will note that the rectifier and capacitor that I have listed are likely grossly oversized, I just used what I had on hand since it was a one off project, and I didn't feel like figuring out the proper specifications for them.
   
   I have the Sonoff flashed with Tasmota. You can set the doorbell button up as a button on GPIO 14 through the configuration menu, then set the PulseTime option to 2 (0.2 seconds) in the console, so that the bell doesn't get stuck on if someone holds the doorbell button down.

Another option would be pretty much the same thing I mentioned except for having a volume control. https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Supports-control/dp/B06XDLCHY7

Awesome! Thank you! I'll have to try to find something similar. That seller has zero feedback, and shipping takes way too long from Hong Kong... : \

Would I be able to find something like that, or something like this locally at a radio shack or something?

Edit

I know the amazon link I put here is 5v, I'm also asking if they make these with 1.25-1.5V Outputs too?

> Yamaha YAS-101

sorry, I didn't register that it was in your title. can you post a picture of your turntable's rear panel? I'm having trouble finding information on it on google. your soundbar doesn't have analog inputs, so you're gonna need an analog to digital converter, unless your turntable has digital outputs, which it sounds like it doesn't

if your turntable has a phono stage, you just need to convert RCA to TOSLINK, something like this analog to digital converter would work

if your turntable doesn't have a phono stage, you'll need one of those as well. so you'd need this phono stage as well as the aforementioned Analog to Digital converted

For the 24vac, you want a rectifier (which can be a simple diode and a small capacitor - google "half-wave rectifier" for designs) and a "buck converter"

For the 110vac, most USB chargers will work just fine for 5v output, and you can use just about any DC wall wart you might have lying around with the aforementioned buck converter.

You could also use linear regulators after the rectifier, but they are much less efficient than a buck converter.

Just need something like this:


https://www.amazon.com/Converter-192kHz-Techole-Aluminum-Converter-Headphone/dp/B07MPF4F68/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=optical+dac+to+mini&qid=1573778798&sr=8-5

Take optical out of TV into that, then headphone jack to Bose aux input.

IIRC the Dolby Headphone effects aren't applied to the MP3 port. Just something to note. You're only going to get basic stereo sound.

To get surround, you'd either want the old Mixamp, which had analog stereo game inputs, or you can use something like this which will let you hook it up to the optical input.

I've been looking at

this: MCP3008
and
this: Using A Joystick On The Raspberry Pi Using An MCP3008

Reckon that could work?

This might be overkill for what you're trying to do, but...

Monoprice has a 6 zone amplifier. When you say "bluetooth and Alexa compatible," do you mean you want to connect to the speakers with an Echo via Bluetooth? Because if you hardwire the Echo to the amp, this negates the need for a bluetooth receiver, and in fact, the Echo can serve as a bluetooth receiver.

As for your TV sound bar question, the linked amp has pre-amp outs, which you could convert to optical using something like this box.

Does this make sense?

Note: I haven't personally used the products linked, but they are generally well reviewed.

Would this work?

Digital to Analog Audio Converter-192kHz Techole Aluminum Optical to RCA with Optical &Coaxial Cable. Digital SPDIF TOSLINK to Stereo L/R and 3.5mm Jack DAC Converter for PS4 Xbox HDTV DVD Headphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MPF4F68/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_MoO3DbFK1BRJ2

I use something like this to go from the optical audio output on the PS4 to my older amp via an RCA cable. So PS4>Optical Audio cable>Optical to RCA conversion>RCA cable>Amp

I don't really wanna post the code for ethical reasons (I started with some basic Adafruit code for bluetooth and turned it into a full OS). But here's a feature list:

1. Bluetooth, where time, battery percentage, and location are automagically updated by a companion app (a modified version of this app by Nordic Semiconductor.)
   
   
2. A stopwatch, accessed by pressing the left button.
   
   
3. A flashlight, turned on by one of the switches
   
   
4. A "dumb mode" in which only the time is displayed, accessed by flipping the bottom switch
   
   
5. In the future, notifications.
   
   I used u8g2's u8x8 mode for the screen drawing, as it requires no ram.
   
   ​
   
   Here are my parts:
   
   Voltage regulator (takes 8.4v down to 5v)
   
   22pF capacitors
   
   16MHz Oscillator (required for standalone board)
   
   DIYMall blue OLED
   
   Knockoff Arduino Uno
   
   Adafruit UART-Capable bluetooth module (makes sending data easier)
   
   Spare ATMega 328 processors
   
   Li-Ion" 9V" (8.4v) batteries (rechargeable)
   
   Switches
   
   9V battery clip
   
   Soldering Kit
   
   Elegoo prototyping PCBs
   
   Jumper wires (makes life easier & tidier)
   
   Elegoo Starter Kit (Comes with LEDs, resistors, and buttons)

If you search PS4 amp on Amazon you get several results across multiple price points. This for example looks solid but has some reviews you may want to inspect before purchase.

The one I wrote in my original post is one that I own and know works wonders. Unfortunately I haven’t used any of these amps to report and recommend, but more than happy to look around.

You'll need an SPDIF DAC like this one Then you can hook up your wireless headphones to the DAC.

Also, continuous vote tallies are suuuper duper close to being ready to go, and I got the ADC I need to get moisture monitoring set up, sometime...

I picked up an awesome cheap tool I forgot to mention and it was only $15:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071Y5CHPK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You have to assemble it and it doesn't come with instructions, but it's so good. I use it to test parts before soldering them in, that way I know I have properly working parts before putting them on the board so if I have any problems later, I know it's not the parts. It measures resistors, diodes, caps, transistors, etc. It does the same thing as the $60 atlas DCA and more. The atlas DCA only measure semiconductors, this cheap thing measures passive parts too like resistors/caps, etc. The numbers are slightly different than what my atlas measures, like right now I'm measuring a silicon transistor that is reading 290 hfe on my atlas but 250 on this cheap thing, but it's at least in the right ballpark. The atlas goes into way more detail like leakage and stuff, but the cheap thing at least gives you the hfe and the pinout so you don't accidentally connect the wrong lead to the wrong input. I got a cheap DMM from amazon too that will give you an accurate enough reading for like $15. So for $30, you can have two great measuring tools.

Longer antenna cables are always a better idea than longer USB. To do it right, use an amplifier like this on a short cable right after the antenna, but before a long cable run.

To be clear, like this: Antenna -> short cable to amplifier -> amplifier -> long cable to SDR.

USB cables can be chained together to make really long ones, but you get into timing errors and induced noise if you go longer than 16.5 feet. And then, you're really not sure if what you're hearing is real, or an artifact (induced).

It's this one. I run antenna -> Band Pass Filter -> Amp -> SDR

You can buy them on an electronics store or online. Some people find these to be overpriced though, since all in all it's just a bunch of bent wires. I feel like they save me some time when breadboarding so I bought a couple of boxes a while ago.

Jeg har et par af dem fra en kit.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Adafruit-MCP3008-856-Converter-Interface/dp/B00NAY3RB2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?imprToken=8T6MevTUTkATMIt6M60Umw&keywords=MCP3008&linkCode=g13&qid=1563247307&s=gateway&sr=8-1

I suggest getting a 9V or 6V PSU and then run that through a regulator. I use L7805CV when I need a 5V regulator. I literally just used one today to power a arduino pro mini (a 5V micro controller). I suggest using decoupling capacitors with that regulator. 10μF should do the trick. Perhaps if you gave some specifics on what you're building we could be of more help. Usually the micro controllers can power components on their own. They probably wont be able to handle 3A on the 5V pins, but you can use a relay.

I simply used the HiLetGo model which is .100 KHz to 2 Ghz. I enclosed it, mounted 2 connectors for the case, and a knob to vary the voltage from 12v to 5v providing adjustable gain depending on the need. I didn’t design the preamp or anything, just made it look a little more professional. Here’s the link for the amplifier. The case was taken from my old cell phone site I dismantled but I’m sure there are other aluminum cases out there.

Not sure what you bought, but this product listing is for the BB830 and it's a bit more than $3:

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0040Z4QN8/ref=sr_1_1?m=A2RKGEIGG4B1JT

What about this?

Also pick up something like https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-0-1-2000MHz-Wide-Amplifier-Noise/dp/B01N2NJSGV or an LNA4HF / LNA4ALL if you want much better performance. :-)

Cool, I have been messing with some stuff I have at home already, I am going to go with a Tennsy setup for this. The Teensy 3.2 is small and plenty powerful enough.
https://www.amazon.com/PJRC-6485230-Teensy-3-2/dp/B015M3K5NG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510164964&sr=8-1&keywords=teensy+3.2

it has an add on board that handles everything else called a "prop board" for doing projects exactly like this. 10DOF motion, 2W amp, controls LEDs also.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZYN7LLC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

price is still cheaper than a sound board, and way more configurable.

It's called the Teensy 2.0. You can get them from ebay, amazon, directly from pjrc, but I got mine from Mouser. It is fully programable with the tmk or qmk firmwares.

What I had purchased was- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MPF4F68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rqJqDbYT542E8

are you recommending a 1/4 stereo to RCA connector and connecting that into the headphone jack?

Wow thank you so much, this was very helpful. :)

​

If i am understanding you correctly, this is the new diagram (https://imgur.com/a/Y6XohGa).

1. Use the red and white power lines from the wall and connect them to this buck converter.
   
2. Configure the buck converter to change the voltage from 16 volts to 5 volts.
   
3. Connect wires from the buck converter to this bridge rectifier to convert the power from AC to DC.
   
4. Connect the wires from the bridge rectifier to the two power ports on the WiFi Relay
   
5. Solder the wires from the relay on the Wifi Relay to the two pins that activate the buzzer
   
6. Voila! :D
   
   ​
   
   One question I had was can I use the existing red and black lines to power both the original unit and the buck converter/bridge rectifier/wifi relay? Would i just cut off some of the plastic coatings of the black and red wires somewhere in the middle and wrap the other wires around the two?
   
   My thinking is that this would effectively make two "ends" for the wires that i can use to power the existing circuit board and the buck converter/bridge rectifier/wifi relay.

These work... Depending on the accuracy required for your measurements.

Wow, yeah thats super small. That looks like something that has a specific purpose. Check these out.
https://www.amazon.com/Double-Sided-Board-Prototype-Paxcoo/dp/B01N3161JP/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1522698761&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=perfboard&psc=1

EDIT: Found the problem. You searched for "Perf Board". Try "Perfboard". Here is the same thing on the DE amazon.
https://www.amazon.de/Aihasd-Lochrasterplatte-Lochrasterplatine-Leiterplatte-Universal/dp/B00VL1KHJQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=ce-de&ie=UTF8&qid=1522698858&sr=1-4&keywords=PerfBoard

amazon starter $20

proto practice boards

practice resistors

Yeah, you just need one of these guys

Teensy 2.0

Teensy 2.0 pinout

TMK flashing

Thanks everyone for your insight, this is the LNA I picked up off of Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-0-1-2000MHz-Wide-Amplifier-Noise/dp/B01N2NJSGV/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494182132&sr=8-1&keywords=low+noise+amplifier

So far I have to say I'm not seeing much improvement with terrestrial signals from it. I was actually comparing local FM stations with it vs just a basic antenna and it actually seems to be 10 DB less with the LNA powered by 4 AA batteries.

I should be seeing stronger FM signals with the LNA plugged in correct?

Those are the most common type. You can get those off ebay or amazon(i got these recently). Probably cheaper off ebay, but you may wait about a month to get them.

ASUS Gaming z170 something or other mobo (I can get the model later if needed)

Vizio 40" from 2015 > TOSLINK and RCA audio out.

Schiit Modi 2 and Magni 2 Uber

Old Sansui A-5 Stereo amp.

I am using basic cables all around, HDMI, Optical, and RCAs. Once again I have no noise issue when running direct from my PC TOSLINK to the Modi, but if I run through the TV there is noticeable hiss.

I also have a cheap DAC/Amp like this:
https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Supports-control/dp/B06XDLCHY7/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1540561437&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dac+amp

It is probably the best option right now but it clutters up my desk with the cable layout. It will work if I have no other option though.

I just wish the Sansui and the Modi shared a connection type. If I could just buy a splitter that would send the signal to both, I'd be fine.

The first item looks like a good starting point for having a small collection of components and a breadboard to test your circuits. Unfortunately if you are looking to get some practice with soldering you are missing an important piece: the actual circuit board. I also use a lot of Pin Headers in my projects, but I like to make things modular and adaptable, so the headers might not be 100% necessary for everyone.
I have a screen very similar to that, and I never use it, since most of my projects are headless, and I just SSH into my Pis remotely. But people are different, you may get a lot of use out of it.
I would also say that you don't need the anti-static mat. Not to downplay ESD, because it can certainly harm your electronics, but you would be much better served with a wrist-strap that clipped onto your computer case or something else that is grounded in your work area.

> cheap out and save a 3.3v regulator (those are expensive for some reason)

Order a handful of LD1117 from Aliexpress, you can get them for $.30/ea

They aren't even that horribly priced an Amazon with prime

Here in this sticky comment you will find an overview of the deals posted in this thread for your benefit. If you find that one of the deals has run out please let me know. Off-topic top level comments asking what to buy will be removed, deals that are missing some of the info will not make it to the list. Also I've changed suggested sorting to "New".

Official Manufacturer Sales

CIEM

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  DACs and Amplifiers and other peripherals
  

  
  

• ALO Audio Big deals on portable amps, only 6 units in total at the moment of writing!
  
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can you tell me what you think about this please??https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B06XDLCHY7/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1543191372&sr=8-4&keywords=dac&th=1

Use DAC for headphones. You’re GF is going to love that crisp sound.

Here’s the one I used. It’s a 192 khz 24bit DAC amplifier with volume control.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDLCHY7/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_B.9-BbE4PRTYF

Tested on Pacific Rim 4k *fight scene, ohh boy it’s so good.

I used to use bluetooth headphones with my pstv and the sound was decent but I recently switched to a toslink converter and the sound quality is much much better. I think most tvs have an optical audio out.

The one I got has no volume control which is a little annoying but you can get a headphone volume knob or this model has one built in.

Gives probably the best setup possible for rhythm games on pstv, music also sounds 10x better.

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Supports-control/dp/B06XDLCHY7

https://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Chanzon-KBPC5010-Rectifier-Electronic/dp/B079KDL8Y5/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=50a+bridge+rectifier&qid=1558967574&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Appropriate rectifiers are cheap and commonly available. You don't NEED a capacitor to make a rectifier work, either, and for this particular application, it wouldn't make any sense to use one.

Getting back to the parent question - a rectifier would work just fine, and only add a few dollars to the cost of the showerhead. I suspect a rectifier WOULD make such a showerhead somewhat safer, too.

Im not good at how to look at how good my dacs is on the motherboard. Here is however the link of it. It does have optical out.

I do have an external [dac](PROZOR Digital to Analog Converter 192kHz DAC Supports Volume control Digital Coaxial SPDIF Toslink to Analog Stereo L/R RCA 3.5mm Jack Audio Adapter https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06XDLCHY7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_zzfHEXmPKizcD) which i bought for my ps4. Is that good enough?

I know i said a big ass speaker wont work but I would still like to look into it. Maybe its big enough that it might actually fit in my small ass desk.

You can see the patterns in judgement on the graph in u/pieman445's comment. There's gaps where you simply can't hit the arrow. It could lead to lost steps or late judgements even though you stepped on time. I switched over to a teensy microcontroller and it completely eliminated the problem

Nice switches.

How many do you have to mount?
1-5: and glue them in.
6-20: buy prototyping boards , solder switches and drill holes to mount them.
20+: design a small pcb with mounting holes and have it made in china.

Well a good route could be Fiio D3 for a cheapo DAC with optical in, which I find cleans up a lot of the noise especially when compared to USB DACs. Spend a little more on the amp, which impacts the sound more than the DAC.


PC>optical cable>Fiio D3>RCA>Schiit Magni

Should be under $150 including cables/shipping.

Edit: just saw what you were running. You really don't need much for your headphones. Honestly if you're having problems with a "noisy" source all you'd really need is an optical DAC to clean things up. Your source should provide more than enough power to power your audio technicas.

PROZOR Digital to Analog Converter 192kHz DAC Supports Volume control Digital Coaxial SPDIF Toslink to Analog Stereo L/R RCA 3.5mm Jack Audio Adapter for PS3 XBox HDDVD PS4 Home Cinema Systems AV Amps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDLCHY7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SFY-yb216G0JC

Cheap and well reviewed.

The current version is on one of those solderable breadboard and it's fairly neat (i.e. four rails for power/ground and then several connected horizontal lines) such as this one: [here] (http://www.amazon.com/Solderable-BreadBoard-matches-tie-point-breadboards/dp/B0040Z6OK6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377062803&sr=8-1&keywords=solderable+breadboard) .

I was hoping that protoshield was just a solderable breadboard but with Arduino connections on top of it.

Snoothing caps? Is that when you put a capacitor on output, and ground of a voltage regulator? Okay thank you. A while back i bought these voltage regulators, i took a quick look at the spec image they provide, and im still new at reading that stuff but i believe max is 800mA

(12-Pcs) STMicroelectronics 3.3V 950mA, LD1117V33 Voltage Regulator, LD33V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N09X4E8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t.WPDbPV6QP8E

And i bought these heatsinks, and idk if they were a good choice.

50 Pcs 20x15x10mm Black Aluminum Heatsink for TO-220 Transistor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UBUOWWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EcXPDbP21NCGM

Even sitting across the room, the Klipsch is much louder and fuller. The sub handling mid bass may be the reason?

Another thing that threw me for a loop is that unlike my old TV, the new one doesn't have analog audio out, so I can't simply plug in another set of desktop speakers like I used to. Are you pretty much forced to use a receiver on modern sets, or would something like this be a workable solution?

Considering just returning the whole set and grabbing some wireless surround system that goes on sale next few days.

I don't have a perfect solution for you. Your best bet would most likely be to convert the console optical to analog (rca or 3.5) and use a regular mixer. I also couldn't find a mixer with optical out, so you would then have to convert back to optical, which is kind of lame (unless your transmitter has a 3.5 input).

If you wanted to go this route here is a cheap optical/rca and here is a "cheap" mixer

Here is mine I followed this guide. When I bought mine it was only $14 on Amazon. If you start with the Jellycomb Numpad, you don't have to buy switches or a case... Just the Teensy 2.0 and the diodes.

There may be other options, this one is very easy to get you started.

I've thought about building this very thing for my mom, who can't set a clock to save her life.

I figured it could have the following:

• GPS module
  
• WWVB NIST radio signal receiver
  
• TCXO or the insane new chip scale atomic clock module
  
• ESP32 for control and WiFi/Bluetooth connectivity for using NTP or somehow sniff time stamps from messages/beacons if possible
  
• Some reasonably intuitive buttons
  
  Links:
  
  
• https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/277307/fetching-current-time-from-unconnected-wifi-networks
  
• https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beacon_frame
  
• https://devzone.nordicsemi.com/f/nordic-q-a/26127/timestamp-information-in-beacon-packets
  
• http://www.ndk.com/en/products/search/tcxo/index.html
  
• https://www.microsemi.com/product-directory/clocks-frequency-references/3824-chip-scale-atomic-clock-csac
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KH3VEGS/

nope, just something like this

This maybe? http://www.amazon.com/Solderless-Flexible-Breadboard-Jumper-100pcs/dp/B005TZJ0AM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1341350174&sr=8-3&keywords=jumper+wire ?
I've bought a pack of 70 and had lying around too and ran out on a single project! It was so frustrating having to wait for something as simple as wires to be delivered!

It's much tidier and easier than using cut cable

would this work? https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Supports-control/dp/B06XDLCHY7/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&dpID=419qZ0dihuL&dpPl=1&keywords=dac%2Bamp&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&qid=1501564594&ref=plSrch&ref_=mp_s_a_1_7&sr=8-7&th=1

Just to confirm:

ps4 connected to Optical to RCA analog converter

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDLCHY7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2Sx1DbEX2GJC1


Then: RCA to XLR cable run from converter to speakers

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077L3PG45/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IVx1DbM7QG40N

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Supports-control/dp/B06XDLCHY7/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1505762354&sr=8-5&keywords=dac+amp

Might work if you get this: Digital to Analog Audio Converter-192kHz Techole Aluminum Optical to RCA with Optical &Coaxial Cable. Digital SPDIF TOSLINK to Stereo L/R and 3.5mm Jack DAC Converter for PS4 Xbox HDTV DVD Headphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MPF4F68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_om5QDbD3PC444

You'll need to go digital out from the TV then convert to the RCA red and white in to video 1 on the receiver.

Not noticeable

I use a very simple and cheap one, looks like this

https://www.amazon.com/avedio-links-Digital-Converter-Adapter/dp/B00N8UYGMW/ref=sr_1_8?crid=2VFOBMU4APTO0&keywords=toslink+analog+to+digital&qid=1554578709&s=gateway&sprefix=toslink+analog%2Caps%2C234&sr=8-8

Aww, come on, give OP a break, reading is hard.

Here's a basic one you can do at home:

• CPU
  
  
• Motherboard
  
  
• SSD
  
  
• Monitor
  
  
• PSU
  
  
• Some cables

Here is the mobile version of your link

Similar to what I'm trying....

Just ordered this last night:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N8UYGMW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My hope is to go monitor>beam.
Monitor 3.5 port > RCA Y cable > LinkS adapter link > Toslink/Digital optical > HDMI adapter included with the beam.

Not sure if that is exactly what you're looking for or not. But if so I can tell you tomorrow or the day after when it shows up.

Using this ADC and using this sensor hooked up to a raspberry pi and breadboard with pi cobbler type attachment. Still waiting on the ADC to come in from Amazon.

Karlsson Robotics is the only legitimate seller.

edit: Looks like Sports Internet Solutions is also an official distributor.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NC43256/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AFBMYHRQ9KU5H

https://forum.pjrc.com/threads/23601-Official-Distributors

Likely to get a fake from any other seller.

Also, it's a dollar less buying it directly from PJRC.com. $16 + $4 postage.

https://pjrc.com/store/teensy.html

Theres a lot of guides out there and most of the hard work has been done for you. You can buy a kit with a pcb, case and switches.

However if you want to build a fully custom keyboard you can try to follow what I tried the other day.
Theres a few things parts youll need for a keyboard.

1. Layout: You can make your own layout or you can use one of the popular layouts. Copy the raw data.
   
   
2. You can buy a case and plate, 60% are fairly common and universal. However you can build your own. Paste the raw data from (1) and generate a CAD file for your case. You can have it laser cut out of wood, acrylic or Aluminum. If you are using Aluminum for the plate, get 1.5mm thick aluminum so the switches will snap into place. However if you use something like wood or acrylic, you'll need something thicker. I found some scraps of 5mm wood. The switches wont click but you can hot glue them in place.
   
   
3. Switches: choose the kind you like.
   
   
4. Youll need to buy: Wires (20-22 gauge wire will work, but I just stripped and old ethernet cable), Diodes (Someone already did the research and decided this one is the best one. You'll need one for every switch.)
   
   
5. MicroController: Teensy 2.0/3.0 or ProMicros. These are well supported.
   
   
6. Lastly you'll need an QMK. Paste the raw data from (1) or you can use one of the presets. Choose the type of controller. This is where you will create a firmware for you keyboard. Save the Hex file.
   
   
   You'll need to wire your switches into a matrix. Make sure the switches are in the right orientation. Wire them to the pins on your microcontroller. Make sure they match with the rows and columns that you chose on the QMK. Lastly, you need to flash your keyboard. Theres a few guides online for this, but if you choose the teensy you can follow this.

and a teensy 2.0 ... just the base one .... it has a female MINI usb, right? not a micro?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NC43256?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&smid=AFBMYHRQ9KU5H

Diodes and Teensy model I'm considering

I think you'll be happy to know moving from a breadboard to a permanent circuit can be made a lot easier. I've used those individual unconnected ones before and it's pretty miserable trying to make blob shorts all day. A piece of wire helps but i start to feel like I'm making wire origami art.

What you're looking for is called a solderable breadboard there are others that move the power rails back to the outside but this helps save space.

My dad passed down his Martin Logan Vantages and his Krell kav 400xi amplifier to me. Growing up with him I was used to listening to them with a pretty high end source (he had a high end record player and CD player.) He kept the sources, so this is my current setup:

XBox sends sound to TV via HDMI, then through the optical audio out on the TV to a DAC (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XDLCHY7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), which is connected directly to the amp.

I typically am just streaming Spotify, but I often hear distortion in songs where previously there was none. It just doesn't sound too good. I don't really own CDs; streaming music is what I do. I know I won't get the same high-end sound as a CD or a vinyl, but what would be your recommendation for a source that will stream to the krell amp?

Thanks!

From Amazon:
> When the power supply voltage changes in 5-8 v, it can be used as a variable gain amplifier, gain increases with the increase of the power supply voltage, which suitable for radio frequency receive front-end circuit, using DA control power supply voltage, to control the gain of the amplifier, automatic gain control
> When the power supply voltage in the 8-10 v, the low frequency end gain up to 30 db, at this time the amplifier has a low noise coefficient and good stability.
> When the voltage is 12 v, reach maximum gain, the low frequency end gain of 32.5 dB.

https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-0-1-2000MHz-WideBand-Amplifier-Noise/dp/B01N2NJSGV

You can use an optical to rca or 3.5mm converter. That is if your PS4 had optical audio out. I can't remember if the slim model does.

I used to use one to connect up a high quality headphone amp for my sim racing setup.

Digital to Analog Audio Converter-192kHz Techole Aluminum Optical to RCA with Optical &Coaxial Cable. Digital SPDIF TOSLINK to Stereo L/R and 3.5mm Jack DAC Converter for PS4 Xbox HDTV DVD Headphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MPF4F68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4L7UDbTX1DTDP