Gotcha buddy.


https://www.amazon.com/Console-Essential-Accesory-Ubiquity-Switches/dp/B01AFNBC3K/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=usb+serial+rj45&qid=1565091778&s=gateway&sr=8-3

This what I use. Imagine you are using Windows. Double check to make sure your serial port is showing up in hardware manager. If you can see the port in the program but it’s not connecting make sure the baud rates match.

Or you made need a USB to serial adapter if the array doesn’t have an rj45 comms port and has a db9 comms port.


https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Converter-Prolific-Chipset-CB-DB9P/dp/B00IDSM6BW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=usb+to+serial&qid=1565092473&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I feel your pain. Get one of these.

A USB to RJ45 cable will probably work fine.

I've never used one, and I don't see any such cables with long histories of positive reviews & glowing feedback.

But I have used USB to DB9 serial adapters, combined with traditional DB9 to RJ45 Cisco Console Cables for years, with excellent result.

USB to DB9
DB9 to RJ45 Console Cable

ADT Pro and some floppies! http://adtpro.com

You will need a serial din to PC serial cable to use ADT.

Hosa DBK-110 Synthesizer Controller Cable, 8-pin Mini-DIN to DE9, 10 ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068OER/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_B80ZDb4G5XXED

If your laptop doesn't have a serial port, grab one of these : USB to Serial and Cisco Console Cable. This will allow you to configure the switch and add a management IP. After that you will be able access the switch via telnet. You can also set up ssh access which is preferred over telnet. There is plenty of instruction on how to do this, just google.

The best I've got right now is if you have a rollover cat5 cable, build a new cable which goes from
http://www.db9-pinout.com/
to
http://www.wti.com/images/cables/dx9f-dte-rjc-diagram.png
and then finally to
http://www.andovercg.com/datasheets/cyclades-alterpath-pm-pdu-install-guide.pdf

I ended up using this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005S2KPPU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And then built a connector that should end up looking like:

Computer Side

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8


5 7 6 4 5 3 8 1

PM20-10a Side

I can't actually verify that this is correct, there was a time when i made one of these but I don't have it handy.

Yes if you buy the kit you need a machine with a serial connection or USB 2.0 to Serial converter plus a null modem serial cable.

Here is a basic how to

Edit: Fixed link thanks to /u/nick_danger

Can confirm a cable like that would work. I use this one to connect my Mac SE to my modern machines. For software, I use Zterm which can be found here.

Haven't figured out file transfers yet, but I know Zterm has the option. If you can find someone capable of making an 800k disk for your plus you'll be set.

Here's an updated guide that's more user-friendly than what I've written in the past. This is a slightly involved process, and I spend about an hour before leaving for BRC configuring the GPS, and 2 hours after the burn downloading the tracks and stitching everything together in Photoshop. This is my 4th year doing this.


Note: I've only been able to do this via Windows. There may be ways via Mac or Linux, but I've not been able to figure them out yet.


Step 1: get a GPS unit that can autolog your tracks. I use a Garmin eTrex Legend. Find it used online for less than $50. It's very durable due to rubber gaskets on all buttons which prevents dust issues. Long-life with 2xAA removable batteries last 2 days on average. Mine has lasted 4 burns with zero issues.


Step 2: turn on "Track Log: Auto" if using the Garmin eTrex Legend, and start walking/biking/flying around BRC! This is turned on by default on my unit, so do is a factory reset of your GPS if it's the eTrex Legend. When this GPS is on, it's tracking movement.


Step 3: after the burn, download your tracks to your PC. You need 2 cables (Garmin to serial port - Amazon, and Serial port to USB adapter - Amazon), and software from Garmin (MapSource - free from Garmin). The port on the GPS for the cable is on the top-rear under a rubber flap. Plug in the cables to your PC, turn on the GPS, and open MapSource. Click on "Transfer" in the menu, and download all tracks from the GPS. The tracks look like this - imgur in MapSource. To change the color of your tracks, on the left hand side double click on any track, and select the color you want it to be. I pick one color per day, and set it for all tracks on that day.


Step 4: screen shot and stitch the maps together in Photoshop. Start by zooming in on your tracks in MapSource. Take a screenshot, scroll a bit, take another screenshot, and repeat this process until you have 10-15 screenshots of portions of the map, like this example - imgur . Next, open all the screenshots in Photoshop and stitch them together. Next, open up google maps in a web browser and search for "Black Rock City". Zoom in, and take 10-15 screenshots of the entire city like this second example - imgur, stitching them together in Photoshop. Now you have a high-res version of your tracks, and a street map for BRC from Google Maps. Next, select just your tracks without the gray background by going to the menu "Select > Color Range" on your tracks image. Click on the gray area of the map thumbnail, set the fuzziness to 32, and hit "Ok". Then go into the menu "Select > Inverse" to select just your tracks. Copy this (Edit > Copy), go to your stitched together image from Google Maps, and paste your tracks over it (Edit > Paste). Then, using the Edit > Transform > Scale tool, resize the tracks until they fit exactly with the Google Maps image.


(optional recommended step): Before leaving for the playa, load your Garmin with the GPS map for BRC that comes out a week before the event from http://www.wkeller.net/BRC-GPS/ . William Keller does a fantastic job of putting these maps together, and it makes the GPS unit useful on playa, particularly during dust storms. It has waypoints for all potties, health services locations, roads, etc. Load this into the Garmin eTrex Legend using Sendmap. To do this, first plug in your GPS, then open MapSource to determine which Com Port your GPS is connected to when plugged into your PC. Open SendMap and select the Com Port you saw in MapSource and set the speed to 9600, and the rest is easy to follow using Mr Keller's instructions from http://www.wkeller.net/BRC-GPS/

This router is a bit of a curious case. It's designed for using 3G and LTE connections. The first thing you should do is get a usb serial and plug into the console port. Download MobaXTerm, it blows putty out of the water. Check your device manager and see what COM pot your adapter is on. Go back to MOBA and select sessions --> new session --> Serial. Sometimes it shows up as prolific. Wait for the router to boot. If you see a "Would you like to enter the initial configuration dialog y/n hit N. Type en and type sh ver. This will show the version of IOS. If it boots into rommon you're screwed as IOSes for this router aren't readily available. I'd HIGHLY suggest checking out Cisco's whitepapers on how this unit functions. The basics are still there, wan/lan. Try using it to set up your house to connect to the internet. Read about the overload command which is how NAT is done. This is also a great way to start getting familiar with the CLI.

> And I’d like to learn about satellites and especially space internet connection

What I'd recommend doing is simply dig into learning about general serial data transmission protocols and about the OSI network model. If you can learn about the gritty details of TCP/IP and how to make your own digital data packets, it would go a long way to really understand how to use this technology.

If you want to experiment, there are several wireless serial data transceivers that you can use for some custom packet experiments at relatively low cost. Basically, you open a raw serial data port and then send your data through the wireless links. Note that I'm not recommending this particular supplier, just using it as an example of the kind of products you can access to play with this technology if you really want to get some direct "hands on" experience.

Mind you, working with raw RS-232 serial data is really in this case mostly for experimenting and learning about how to get it done rather than trying to make a ground breaking application and really pushing the technology where you might want to get into USB specs and other digital transmission protocols. If you learn at this level though, you can write your own ticket when it comes to getting employers noticing you.

If you have newer computers without a raw DB-9 RS-232 serial data connector, you can also buy some comparatively inexpensive USB converters and experiment with building your own network between several computers using just raw data connections and building a network from the hardware on up.

If you really master all of this and can get TCP/IP packets flowing through these connections, you will be set to be hacking the Starlink ground station as soon as it comes out for people outside of SpaceX. By hacking, I mean somebody who is really using the full power of the network and making applications beyond the casual default software that would be standard.

I really hope that SpaceX will permit us to get into that lower network level of packet operations without having to go into black hat hacking. It would make developing personal cubesats and other really fun satellite operations possible.

An excellent writeup - I've been thinking about doing the same myself. It's good to see people supporting the old system.

One thing to note, the 64-bit "driver" presented here on LegoEngineering.com is ONLY intended for Robolab for Labview. I have personally tested this method, and it will not work for any RCX software other than Robolab.

In my opinion, the ideal RCX set would include a Serial tower. This gives the option of using a cheap serial to USB converter, which in my experience is the only working method to program an RCX using a 64-bit OS. Even the standard RIS 2.0 software works on 64-bit Windows 10, using a serial tower and a USB-serial converter.

I actually have an external 56 Kbps modem sitting here next to me but I don't think there's anywhere I could dial into. Oh and I think I would need one of these.

You need a USB to serial adapter, like https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Converter-Prolific-Chipset-TU-S9/dp/B0007T27H8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499385175 or https://www.amazon.com/Console-Essential-Accesory-Ubiquity-Switches/dp/B01AFNBC3K/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1499385175&sr=8-8&keywords=usb+to+serial+adapter . Anything with Prolific will work, or SiLabs (also seen in Cygnal stuff). Both have OSX drivers. I think the Prolific drivers may be built in these days.

Anyway - Install the drivers and then you can use screen or other tools to attach to the tty, e.g. screen /dev/tty.<something> 115200. All the USB to serial stuff will generally present as a TTY device in /dev.

Wow people are unhelpful. Get one of these. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HUZ6OMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_-Z56yb0W02FJT

I have a DEC Rainbow connected to my RPI using serial. It's not particularly hard. I suggest buying a USB-to-RS232 adapter. Mine is a TRENDnet that seems to work fine on all Linux machines I've plugged it into.

I also have a serial adapter on my GPIO pins using a MAX3232 chip. This solution, however, stinks. The RPI only provides TX/RX on the GPIO pins. There are no other pins, making hardware flow control impossible. There are no DTS, DCD, RTS, CTS, etc. signals available. These lacking features really confuse some of the Rainbow's comm software. On top of that, operating above 9600bps without these flow control mechanisms, even though Xon/Xoff flow control is enabled, regularly leads to a corrupted data stream. That's why I would strongly suggest using the USB-to-RS232 adapter instead of the RPI's GPIO pins.

First I would say to try to have the cables go straight across to their connectors, like instead of having the sata cables going diagonal, this will help give it a better look. Secondly I would recommend checking out something like a cablemod kit to make the cables the same color, so that the cable you do see looks nicer

They can be picked up fairly cheap:

CableMod Basic Cable Extension Kit - 8+6 Pin Series (Black/White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6F4WTA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PSbZDbJ4HQ83R


I would also ditch the red sata cable and go with black or white to fit your theme:

Cable Matters 3-Pack 90 Degree Right Angle SATA III 6.0 Gbps SATA Cable (SATA 3 Cable) Black - 18 Inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018Y2LEBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GVbZDbEM0D6K7


Edit: I would also say try to neatly bundle all those cables going to the bottom right of the motherboard with velcro or zip ties and try to tuck them along the edge so you have one neat run.

Ps. Nice build!!

Eer the MB you linked to is an AM3+ and the Ryzen 5 is an AM4 CPU?

What you are looking for this this ... however, if you have an AM3+ CPU you maaaay not have AVX which is a hard requirement for WMR.

For example this one auto-installed and hasn't given me any trouble.

I've built my own version to plug into a PC. Its late on my end but I'll get the pin out and a pic of my example when I'm free tomorrow.

You'll need the following

• 1 DB9 Male breakout board ex: amazon
  
• 1 Zero Delay Encoder ex: amazon
  
• 1 DB9 MF cable (if you dont have the original one as well) ex: amazon
  
  Basically you connect a few lines from the zero delay encoder to the breakout board (I'll provide pin outs later). After you complete the wiring, you can now plug the breakout board to the pad and the zero delay encoder to the PC, map the buttons with Stepmania (or whatever you plan to use your pad on), and tada.
  
  Edit: Link to pic of my version & where to place wires. You only need 1 ground line (in this example its the white wire), hence all plugs have 1 wire coming out except the first one which has 2 wires. The black wires lead to the X & O buttons, the blue wires lead to the arrows. The thing the wires run through is a furrite core which is an optional addition.

You're going to need something similar to [this][1]. Or at least something that converts the rj45 to serial, and then serial to usb.

[1]: https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Interface-Console-Adapter-Routers/dp/B00HUZ6OMQ "this"

I use one of these for USB to DB9, then I can attach whatever cable I need.

Works on both macOS and Windows too

Hey OP, probably the best place to start is by getting your self a console roll over cable, you can go for the USB type or Serial DB9 (Be sure to shop around, these are just ones I found with a quick search) Note rollover cables are different from any other standard networking cable, so be sure to watch for that.

Once you have your console cable, you'll need a console program like Tera Term and depending on which port and type you have the rollover cable plugged into your comp, you need to select it and the baud rate for the cisco switch, it should be 9600 bauds. Providing there's no hiccups, it will go through the boot up process, you can then hit enter and either the switch will prompt you with

>Continue with configuration dialog? [yes/no]

or

>Switch>

These are the prompt you want, if you get the yes/no select no. If you just get Switch> then its good to go, all port are by default up

The ones that are bad news are

>Switch:

This means there's no ios on the machine, and you will need to find a good copy some how, including buying a functioning switch and copying over the ios.

>Password:

This means the previous owner never wiped their configs off it.

If either is the case feel free to pm me for more assistance.

A car adapter? Mine came with one. As for the power supply id recommend this


Here is what i bought to track with it.
PC interface Cable
Serial Adapter
And finally this, but this is optional to you. Youll probably eventually want to image from your backyard, and if you do youll want this. AC Adapter

Another thing, Unluckily for me and for you, the mount does not come with a polar scope. Do some research to what kind you want, but I got this one

Other than that, Good luck! If you ever want some real time advice come check out the chat room under the useful links tab on the side of the subreddit! Chances are I'll be there, or one of the AP gurus.

like this one here...

regular riser cards are available as well, but add height and possibly cause clearance issues. i don't see any that you could maybe stuff into a 1x on the edge of a board and just have the card off to the side, in say an mATX board installed in a fullsize atx case.

>and a gaming PC with an asus z170 board I'd like to use as my console.

You don't access the console full-time. Usually you just use the console cable for:

1. Setting up initially
   
2. Emergencies when your machinations lock yourself out of the switch
   
   Once the switch is set up, you just access it via its management IP over something like SSH.
   
   >there is no way to connect a DB9 to RJ45 console cable to my board
   
   I'm assuming your board has USB, and the switch comes with a console cable it looks like, so you can use either:
   
   

• USB to Serial. This will allow you to use the cable it came with.
  
• Or you can skip the adaptor and just get a direct cable.
  
  I use the latter. With an RJ45->DB9 adaptor, I'm able to connect to basically any switch, new or old.
  

It's a good switch to play around with to learn Cisco command line, and you will want to, because it may not even function correctly depending on the previous configuration. You will want to pick up a USB to serial, and a Cisco Console cable to at least factory reset it.

The least expensive goto system you're going to find will probably be the Celestron LCM family. You can get these for around $150 for a 60mm refactor, and goes up to $250 for a 110mm reflector.

Any of these can be connected to a computer (using an adapter cable plus a USB to Serial cable), but the Nexstar hand paddle by itself will do the job of identifying what you're looking at.

Of course, these guys don't have nearly the light-gathering power of larger Orion telescopes, so you'll need to go someplace with a dark sky to see more than the moon, the planets, and some brighter star clusters... but on the bright side, you'll be able to find all that stuff right away!

>instead of using a straight-up converter for that (which I'm sure exist)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007T27H8

No, RS232 and USB are completely different. RS232 transcievers can be connected to a computer using USB, but the USB protocol is its own thing.

The Arduino actually has a serial port in that other Atmel chip mounted near that USB connector. The other Atmel chip is a USB enpoint that presents itsself to the computer as a USB-connected serial port. This is then used to talk to the actual Arduino micro that you're programming when you upload your program, and is used when you're running the Serial library on the Arduino.

Referring to this schematic, the Atmel USB-connected micro that acts as a serial port is U3, and the actual Ardino-programmed micro is ZU4.

The serial port is carried across RN4A and RN4B, right at the bottom of the schematic. You can talk to the Arduino by grabbing hold of the serial port at the pins labeled 0 and 1 of the IOL connector.

Now, to be clear: this is a serial port but it is not RS232. This is what's called a TTL-level or Logic-level serial port. There are USB-connected serial ports that you can buy for either of those things. Here's a tutorial on the difference.

So you can buy a logic-level serial port like this one and plug it right into the pins (the TX and RX pin on the port I mentioned above, and the ground pin) and after you get the Baud rate correct, you should be able to use this to communicate with the Arduino instead of the normal on-board USB connected serial port.

Then you should be able to extend the wires. However, this TTL level serial signal is not as robust as the RS-232 carried serial signal.

To use the real RS-232 serial signal, you'd need to buy an RS-232 type USB-connected serial port (if your computer doesn't have one already, this is the protocol that's almost always carried on a 9-pin D-style connector). Then you'd need a transciever for the Arduino. This tranceiver shield looks easy to use. This would work with a USB serial adapter such as this one.

So either one of those, if operated at a low bit rate such as 9600 baud or even slower, should go over quite a long cable. I feel like the RS-232 serial adapter may go over a longer haul, but honestly it's quite possible that the TTL adapter would be just as good. And that way you don't have to put a shield on the Arduino, which is nice.

FYI if you chose to use the RS-232 signalling scheme, you only need three of those nine wires: TX, RX, and ground. You don't actually need to use the DB-9 connector and the 9-wire cable to get it to work. All the other stuff isn't actually used on the bare-bones serial link that we want to set up here.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6F4WTA :)

My list for mobile/portable operating would look something like this...

For a man portable setup I could carry in a pack, the highest capacity LiFePO4 battery I could afford.

Otherwise, if I'm driving out to a fixed operating site, then the biggest AGM deep cycle battery I would care to lug from the car a short distance to the operating site.

A lightweight computer with good battery life so I don't have to worry about external power for it out in the field. I'm not really a Mac guy, but I'd probably bring my Macbook Pro for this task.

The TS-480 doesn't require a Signalink/Rigblaster type interface for digital operation, but you will need the following items to interface to your computer...

• USB to serial converter. Don't buy the Prolific chipset garbage, save yourself the frustration and spend the few bucks for something with an FTDI chipset.
  
  
• Kenwood PG-5H data cable set. You can also make this if you want, Your TS-480 should have shipped with a plastic baggie with the connectors in it to make this (pinouts are detailed towards the back of the manual). Or, you can get them on ebay. I bought mine mainly because hate soldering stuff to DIN connector pins.
  
  
• Serial cable, straight through, female ends. Cheap and readily avaialble.
  
  
• If the laptop you're using doesn't have separate speaker out/mic in jacks, then a cheap USB audio adapter.
  
  The filters aren't truly necessary and the unit is pretty frequency stable without the TCXO, but they sure are nice to have. If you were going to put a filter in it, I would recommend the 500Hz CW filter. It comes in handy when you're trying to zero in on a particular signal or block adjacent strong signals. The DSP filtering is generally adequate, but a strong enough signal is going to swamp the AGC and that's when the crystal filters come in handy to notch that out.
  
  If you do get the TCXO, don't waste $110 on the Kenwood SO-3. The cheap Chinese TCXO's work just as well and can be had for much cheaper. I got mine from ebay for 20 bucks or so, but now you can even get them on Amazon with Prime shipping and everything.
  
  Antenna choice is highly variable. Out here in the deserts of New Mexico, you don't find much in the way of trees, so a wire antenna deployed up into a tree is out and a self supporting vertical is in. I generally pack an MFJ 1979 telescoping vertical whip with a clamping antenna mount or a collapsable fiberglass pole that I can hoist up a length of wire with. Your own situation, available terrain, bands you want to work are going to be the determining factors here.
  
  This page has some useful notice on power draw of the TS-480 with some operating scenarios and battery sizing options. A lightweight, power sipping QRP rig the TS-480 is not, but it's still very usable for portable operations.
  
  

First off, unless I'm mistaken, /r/homenetworking would be the right place for this thread.

The 1242 is not a router, it is a Wireless Access Point.

You need a Cisco Console Cable and a (USB-RS232 Adapter)[https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Converter-Prolific-Chipset-TU-S9/dp/B0007T27H8/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1486739466&sr=1-3&keywords=serial+to+usb] for your laptop.

Some basic google searching can lead you to various simple guides on Cisco's website for your intended use case.

Just the basic extension kit from cablemod can be found on amazon for $34.95. The white is here.

From an amazon review of de cable:

>This cable appears to be a USB-to-Serial adapter similar to http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-USB-RS-232-Serial-Converter/dp/B0007T27H8 , only instead of coming out at a 9-pin RS232 connector, it comes out at proprietary 3-pin connector.

Follow /u/nonewjobs s advice.

The cable you linked won't work. You will need the Celestron serial to rj12 cable then use a 232 to USB cable to plug into your laptop.

https://www.amazon.com/Celestron-Nexstar-232-Interface-Cable/dp/B0000665UZ

For about $10 you can get this.

Yes. It's from CableMod but I bought it from amazon. Here is the link:
CableMod Basic Cable Extension Kit - 8+6 Pin Series (Black/White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6F4WTA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KkzXDb1K45HVV

In reality, you don't need most of it anymore. Serial port? Small USB-to-serial adapter, job done. Optical drive? Basically never need one, when you combine stuff like server iDRAC and IPMI with remote management, and OS installs can be done off USB sticks.

The one thing I do wish my Surface Pro had is an Ethernet port, but I've managed to work around that also (usb3 to gigabit adapter).

Battery life? Well, a HP Spectre X360 15 inch - what may well be the best laptop of 2016 in my book - will have all-day battery life, and 4 USB ports (one USB-C, 3 A), plus HDMI and DisplayPort.

Arguably, a 15 inch slim ultrabook like that and a serial port adapter and USB3 bluray will still be less to haul than some ugly old brick. And if you find yourself standing in a data center needing to operate it one handed, it flips into tablet mode with a touch screen.

https://www.amazon.com/VicTsing%C2%AE-playback-Blu-ray-External-desktops/dp/B014OSZF4Y

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Converter-Prolific-Chipset-TU-S9/dp/B0007T27H8

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00BBD7NFU - or better yet this, if you want more USB3 ports also: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B01J6583NK

But, in answer to your actual question, no, I'm not aware of an old school brick with tons of ports that's worth buying. A few accessories you can keep in the bag until you need them makes more sense anyway - in my opinion.

Well, unless you go to rugged or semi-rugged designs. They have to be so bulky anyway that they toss in a ton of ports.

http://en.getac.com/notebooks/S410/features.html perhaps or machines of that style.

Dell also makes semi-rugged. Panasonic Toughbook etc. But all these rugged models cost a premium. Then again, if you get stuck in a snowdrift, you can use them as shovels, so... :)

Or else, you can go all out! :) http://en.getac.com/notebooks/X500-Server/features.html

Something like this?

Yes I know, but for some reason I didn't think to screen shot as I was already taking pictures of the setup. As for the terminal stuff, I just use TotalTerminal so I can go in and out of it quickly. Then for the serial stuff I just use This combined with a script I made so I don't have to remember all the screen stuff and with the correct drivers, it works like a charm.

edit: Clarification

Get a pcie x1 extension cable.

PCI-e PCI Express 36PIN 1X Extender Extension Cable with Gold-Plated Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J2BJPDN/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_JWg2DbVHM896X


Edit: link

If you are referring to the white connector, that is a serial port.

You probably need a USB to serial cable. Example:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-RS-232-Male-Serial/dp/B00J4N9T9C/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1505475484&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=usb+to+serial&psc=1

Ah, in that case, you need one of these or something like it: Female to Female DB9 cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00066HP2E

And one of these or something like it if you don't have a serial port on your laptop (you probably don't): USB to Serial adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00066HP2E

And you can use a program like Tera Term or PuTTY to talk to the switch through the adapter.

I ordered this one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IDSM6BW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00

I recently had great success managing a Cisco PIX firewall with this USB to Serial adapter from Trendnet. I used it from a Windows 8.1 VM and Bootcamp.

Now you'll want one of these so you can program your radio with CHIRP. I use a serial-to-USB interface, works well.

Bam! $10 Serial to USB:
http://amzn.com/B0007T27H8

$16 External DVD/CD Drive:
http://amzn.com/B00Y82T6SI

Now you can use any laptop you want! (as long as it has USB ports)

If you have an adapter, you can pas the USB device to the VM with relative ease. The VM has full control of the device. Much in the same way that you would pass a USB flash drive, mouse, or keyboard.

The Serial Port that you are adding is only really for Host to Guest stuff like SPICE: https://pve.proxmox.com/wiki/Serial_Terminal

I think there is a way with editing the VM's .conf file. like adding args: -serial /dev/ttyS0 or something like that, I could be wrong.

USB us much easier to deal with and fairly inexpensive. Example

TL:DR; Press <RETURN> after IN#2; you should see IMMEDIATE input on the //c. You CAN use lower-case. You may need to select File > Serial Config > Apple //c ImageWriter Cable option. Try a different USB-DB9 cable if after #Troubleshooting (below) doesn't work.

---

AppleWin developer here -- I just went through this exact same issue this week having recently moved and started unboxing my Apple 2 Lab these past few weeks. Sadly I didn't pay attention to the exact ADTPro setup I had before so I was forced to start over from scratch. In the end this actually worked out since I never documented what I did before so here is an opportunity for me to do this now -- and you get the benefit. :-)

Requirements

• MacBook Pro (MBP)
  
• OSX (I'm running 10.10 but version shouldn't matter)
  
• Apple //c
  
• Serial Cable DB-9 (Female) to DIN-5 (male) null modem cable
  
• USB to RS232 DB9 (male) serial adapter
  
• ADTPro 2.x
  
  

  Caveats
  

  
  NOT all USB-DB9 serial cables work!!! Of the three I have only this one works:
  
  

• IOcrest USB 2.0 to RS232 DB9.
  
  These ones do NOT work:
  
  
• Sabrent USB 2.0 to Serial (9-Pin) DB-9 RS-232
  
• Tripp Lite Keyspan High-Speed USB to Serial Adapter, PC & Mac (USA-19HS) -- Note: I believe this one might work -- as I see the serial port with the with provided /Applicatons/Keyspan Serial Assistant. You need to install the kernel driver and reboot OSX (macOS). HOWEVER, every time I plug it in the mouse and OS freeze. You are forced to hold down the power button reboot. :-/
  
  I'm not sure if the serial cable being a null modem is a factor or not.
  
  

  Solution
  

  
  

1. Make sure the serial cable connected to the port on the floppy drive side. The serial port is on the opposite side of the power supply on the back of the //c. NOTE: You'll see a 2 <phone icon> engraved above the serial port.
   
   
2. When you plug in your USB cable and start ADTPro you must see it listed under File > Serial Configuration. For me it was /dev/tty/usbserial.DN000MLG4 but this will vary depending on which brand/model you have. Check your manual for details. Also, I have:
   
   

• Speed: 19,200 (Note: You CAN use 115,200)
  
• [x] Apple //c w/ Imagewriter cable <-- This was THE key for me.
  
  

3. Press the Serial button.
   
   
4. Select the menu Bootstrapping > ProDOS > Speediboot
   
   
5. The docs for ATDPro are missing an essential keypress as it is implied. On the Apple //c side you MUST press RETURN after IN#2:
   
   IN#2 <RETURN>
   <Ctrl-A>14B
   
   
6. Lower-case DOES work!
   
   
7. When you press Ctrl-A the cursor will change to a question mark ?. If you don't see this then the serial card is NOT active.
   
   
8. When press type B the cursor will change back to the regular checkerboard glyph. You CAN press <RETURN> after the B as well but it isn't needed like the first one after the IN#2.
   
   
9. After pressing OK within ADTPro you should immediately see the CALL -151 and hex input on the Apple //c. If ADTPro sends the file (~30 seconds) but there is NO input on the Apple //c side then your connection is working. See the following Troubleshooting section.
   
   

   Troubleshooting
   

   
   

• Physical verify the USB-DB9 cable connection is solid. My USB-DB9 adapter has a red LED when hooked up to the MBP -- the other lights turn on when actual sending.
  
• Serial config: Lower the speed to 19,200 until you verify the higher speed works
  
• Serial config: Toggling the Imagewriter option
  
• Serial config: Verify you are using the correct /devdevice
  
• If you have exhausted all other options try another USB-DB9 cable
  
  

  Models
  

  
  I have the following Apple //c models in my Apple Lab. I've tested two of them:
  
  | Version | Works |
  |:---|:---|
  |255 (Original) | Yes |
  | 0 (3.5 ROM IIc) | Yes |
  | 5 (//c+) | ? (Haven't tested) |
  
  NOTE: You can find which ROM version your //c is via:
  
  ? PEEK(64447)
  
  Good luck!
  
  Edit: Replaced //c+ pic with //c one.

check out the trendnet Tu-S9.. Never had a problem with em and they work great with Cisco Checkpoint and Foritnet devices.. https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-USB-RS-232-Serial-Converter/dp/B0007T27H8/

You can get a USB to serial cable and then use the console cable to connect to the switch to reset it.

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-TU-S9-USB-Serial-Converter/dp/B0007T27H8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1466537968&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+to+serial

If they're extensions, no it doesn't matter. Extensions just plug into the ends of your existing cables - they have the same socket as on your motherboard and just extend the length of the cable: https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Premium-Sleeved-Extension-PH-CB4P_RD/dp/B018L636WS?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

If you're replacing the modular cables for a modular psu, yes, it really does matter. You need to get the correct cables for the psu. Replacement cables are often PSU model and brand specific. getting the wrong ones can lead to lots of issues. https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Premium-Sleeved-Extension-PH-CB4P_RD/dp/B018L636WS?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

Are these extension cables universal?

I bought this telescope too on Prime Day. I'm also researching what accessories are recommended. So here's something I didn't know. The GOTO computer thingy runs on 8 AA batteries. If your moving around a lot, the batteries get toasted pretty quickly. Turns out we can get a rechargeable lithium ion battery pack for about $30.00.

There's also the option AC adapter for about $20.00. Celestron sells a "Power Tank" power source, but that doesn't seem like such a good purchase.

If you need to update the software on the GOTO system, apparently Celestron didn't include the needed cable. That's another $14.00. But the thing is, that cable is an ancient 9 pin interface, and isn't compatible with a lot of laptops. You may also need an adapter for another $14.00. Or you can opt for the Wifi adapter for $90.00.

To set the computer up, you need to manually enter a lot of data about your location. Once you power down, the data is lost. Celestron has this GPS device which seems to have pretty good reviews.

That's a lot of accessories. Not sure what exactly I've gotten myself into. I just wanted to stargaze. lol

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Converter-Prolific-Chipset-CB-DB9P/dp/B00IDSM6BW/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=347S3YAMRB8G0AKJVT1Q

:)

Yes, but I would never want to do that, you would lose a lot of performance...
http://www.amazon.com/HOTER-Extension-Cable-Riser-Adapter/dp/B0057M1ZLE

RJ-45 console cables are often propitiatory and different pins depending on the device :(

You'll need to use a USB -> Serial adapter then the proper cable that came with the device.

This is the model I use, it works good even on Windows 10: http://smile.amazon.com/Sabrent-Serial-RS-232-Converter-CB-DB9P/dp/B00IDSM6BW/

I do not recommend the IO Gear one. I haven't used it in years but unless they've done a much better job in recent years it was extremely buggy. It would often crash my terminal application. This is the one: http://smile.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Serial-RS-232-Adapter-GUC232A/dp/B000067VB7/

This one seems to have great reviews and some serial troubleshooting features: http://smile.amazon.com/GearMo-Adapter-Indicators-Windows-Support/dp/B00AHYJWWG/

>APC AP7753

APC RJ-12 serial cable.

> Dell Powerconnect 6224

That needs a null modem. I use this straight-through serial cable plus these slim null modem adapters with a random eBay USB serial adapter with a male plug.

> Hp 2810 (4 switches varying in port count) Fujitsu XG2600 (26port SFP+ switch)

Most things I've bought that have RJ-45 serial ports work with the standard "blue Cisco cable". Some need a null modem adapter and some don't.

probably a type of serial connector (RS 232)

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Serial-Adapter-RS232/dp/B00J4N9T9C/ref=sxin_2_sxwds-bovbs?keywords=rs232+to+usb&pd_rd_i=B00J4N9T9C&pd_rd_r=4af7532e-0084-4f01-a7a7-9d2af82a9931&pd_rd_w=j7AAN&pd_rd_wg=sxPkV&pf_rd_p=b866bc3b-cfe5-45c1-897c-a8525a3335d9&pf_rd_r=5DE303G7R1VDC6JWSCK1&qid=1567192406&s=gateway

TRENDnet TU-S9 USB to Serial Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007T27H8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_s5wuxb8XTQ24G

I have a couple of these that work just fine.

This may be a stupid question, but why are you even doing this mess? Why not simply use one of these.

I thought about trying something like this with my G27. I didn't want to take it apart so I was going to use this breakout board along with this cable. I just haven't gotten around to doing that.

Believe it or not, the 2509 is actually cheaper than the module you're looking for.

The module that would support what you want to do is an HWIC-8A. On eBay, they range anywhere from $250-$1k. Not only that, but you would need a compatible router (basically, an 1841, 1941, or any 2800/2900/3800/3900 series ISR) as well as the appropriate cabling (CAB-HD8-ASYNC, about $20-$40 on eBay).

You might be able to use a smaller module (like an HWIC-4A/S or an HWIC-4T), but the wiring is going to be a pain (meaning, you're going to effectively be making your own cables using serial-to-RJ45 pinout adapters, then using rollover cables to connect to your devices) and the cost isn't much better than going with an HWIC-8A or 8A/S.

Why so expensive, you ask? Well, think of it from a business perspective. You're the netadmin for a medium-sized business, and after a network outage that cost the company $100K+ that was prolonged partially because you needed to drive 45 minutes to the datacenter to console into your core switch/router, you need an out-of-band management solution. The HWIC-8A/S is in pretty high demand because they allow any old ISR to suddenly be used as an access server. Furthermore, I believe it has two ports for a total of 16 connections. Throw four of those babies in your old 3825, and you have 64 individual connections you can console into. That means a single terminal server will allow you to console into the top-of-rack switches across your entire datacenter. Let's assume you want some redundancy, so you get a second terminal server to plug into the Aux ports of your network devices - you've solved a $100K+ problem for less than $1k in equipment costs.

You might be able to come up with a homebrewed solution using a physical Linux server and some USB-to-serial connectors, as described in this blogpost. However, if you need thirteen devices to have console access, and USB-to-serial converters are $10 a pop, and rollover cables are $5 a piece (maybe more, maybe less), you're getting close to access server-levels of cost anyway. So, might as well go for the "proper" solution and save yourself potential hassle in the future.

You need to be subscribed or +shortcut or something.

As far as your question, there are extensions that work with all PSUs, you don't void any warranty and it's a piece of cake to install.

Examples, 24pin extension, 8pin eps extension, 8pin pcie extension and so on.

Usually switches run RS-232 over RJ45, not Ethernet. We usually use a combination of a USB-Serial adapter and DB9 to RJ45 Rollover

But I also see now we have USB to RJ45 RS-232

Then we connect using screen /dev/ttyUSB0 9600

its not too bad, I have X550e I picked for $75.

You'll need this. http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-TU-S9-USB-Serial-Converter/dp/B0007T27H8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1459299559&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+to+serial

and this http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-TU-S9-USB-Serial-Converter/dp/B0007T27H8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1459299559&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+to+serial.

I'm not saying you "have" to buy these, but I used like 3 different serial cables and two different usb adapters. Until I got theses.
2.1 is easy 2.2 and 2.3 are a bit tricky they require you disable DNL if you use a CF card.

> I just couldn't connect to the other ports. Do I have to activate them in some way or should they be active out of the box?

By default Eth0 has 192.168.1.1 and that is it. The other ports are lit but without an IP address.

> I held the reset button for 10 second while it was running (runtime reset because that's what the manual recommended).

That's not what the manual says to do to reset. They say: power down device, hold pin in, power on, keep holding it til Eth 1 (or maybe eth2 I forget) blinks orange, hold until that orange light dies out, then let go of pin.

> eBay would work?

Yea eBay should work just fine, Amazon too if you want to get this back up and running in a timely manner.

I got this one and it has worked for me, but there are loads out there even cheaper.

I just bought an FWS648G last week and the consoles are probably the same.

In my case, I just used a USB to RS232 DB9 adapter with a null modem F-F adapter F-F gender changer.

Edit: I was mistaken, turns out the cable I used was just a straight gender changer (not a null modem).

This might be worth a $10 gamble. I haven't tried it, but unless Trimble is doing something proprietary, I don't see why a generic 9-pin serial to USB wouldn't work.

It's not common on modern motherboards, but there are adapters. For example, this from Amazon. Check the gender on those connections, make sure straight-through works (or get a null modem adapter). You can add a serial to USB adapter to plug into any computer with a USB port and drivers.

It's not a bad setup, but we might be able to tweak it a little. A few things I see:

• Video Card: Lots of video cards have had price cuts recently with the introduction of the GTX970. Unfortunately @ $280 the 280X is now in a odd spot that makes it more difficult to recommend. $20 more gets you a much more powerful R9 290 4GB. $50 more can get you to new cool running GTX970 4GB. And if on a tight budget, $80 less gets you the 280. (Though since you want to also stream, it's probably best you get better than the 280 to keep things crystal smooth.)
  
  
• SSD. No high end system today should be without at least a small @$60 120GB SSD for the OS. It makes such a night and day difference in general windows use. You want your computer to feel snappy, new and "next gen"? SSD is one of the key ingredients for that. For @$100 you can get a nice 250GB SSD that also has room for a few games.
  
  
• Power supply. The selected motherboard and case can handle expanding to two AMD video cards, but the power supply cannot.
  
  
• Case. The selected case doesn't have the newer front USB 3.0 ports. It uses the older USB 2.0, while the motherboard is setup to use front USB 3.0.
  
  
• Overclock able CPU and Motherboard, but not aftermarket CPU cooler.
  
  ------------
  
  To balance all this out in a refresh of your build, I have a few questions to fine tune it.
  
  
• What is your budget?
  
• What's your monitors resolution? 720p/1080p/1440p/4K
  
• Running at? 60Hz/96Hz/120Hz/144Hz?
  
• Near a Microcenter? The CPU deals could be worth the trip.
  
  
  ----------
  
  

  Before the fine tuning, here's a more general recommendation for around $1100:
  

  
  

• Intel's Top of the Line Quad core sith stock speed of 4.0Ghz before any overclocking.
  
• Has a nice edge over the i5's in video editing tasks and could have a boost over the i5 in streaming depending on what software/settings you use to stream.
  
  
• Cooler Master Sedion 240M 240mm Liquid cooler. Cooling performance nearing that of the big boys but at a budget price (with rebate). Great fit for the budget Cooler Master N200 MicroATX case below.
  
• http://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/cooler-master-seidon-240m-review.html
  
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HQHC-IXQofs
  
  
• Auto-Selected least expensive Z97 , SLI compatible motherboard.
  
• Auto-Selected least expensive 8GB RAM
  
• Auto-Selected least expensive 120GB Solid State Drive for OS and Office Apps
  
• Auto-Selected least expensive 1TB Hard Drive for Games
  
• EVGA GTX 970 4GB - Blower style
  
• Inexpensive for a GTX970 and more ideal cooling setup for possibly adding a second card down the line.
  
  
• Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Case
  
• Compact and easy to work in case with a layout similar more expensive cases.
  
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q2YqUR8pcas
  
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f5mro17ZgZo
  
  
  
  
  PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
  
  Type|Item|Price
  :----|:----|:----
  CPU | Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $317.27 @ TigerDirect
  CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Seidon 240M 86.2 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $69.99 @ Newegg
  Motherboard | *Gigabyte GA-Z97MX-Gaming 5 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $115.97 @ OutletPC
  Memory | *Mushkin Stealth 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $65.99 @ Newegg
  Storage | *Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $58.99 @ NCIX US
  Storage | *Western Digital Caviar Green 1TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.50 @ Newegg
  Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Video Card | $329.98 @ NCIX US
  Case | Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case | $44.99 @ Mwave
  Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $49.99 @ NCIX US
  | | Total
  | Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $1102.67
  | *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria |
  | Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-06 16:33 EDT-0400 |
  
  ---------------------
  
  

  For a little more you can bump up from budget parts to get a more premium setup with a full Red/Black Theme and software adjustable liquid cooler/fans:
  

  
  

• NZXT S340 Case
  
• Dust Filtered
  
• Sleek outer look with huge window.
  
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9cNWOgbEXMI
  
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Hozx1o188Y
  
  
• NZXT Kraken X61 Liquid Cooler
  
• Powerful Zero maintenance closed loop Liquid cooler with software control over fan speeds to max out that excellent CPU.
  
• Extra Large 280mm radiator to dissipate the heat
  
• Install guide for a closed loop water cooler. You can step through it and see the clearly laid out steps. I think you'll find it's no more difficult than anything you did to build the rest of the PC. http://www.nzxt.com/manuals/krakenx61/X61-115X.html
  
• Can customize Block LED Color. --- Think red match the Theme and RAM - or even turn it off.
  
• http://www.silentpcreview.com/NZXT_Kraken_X61
  
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DU0BEepRZBM
  
  
  
• Red/Black Premium Z97 motherboard that support SLI and Overclocking.
  
  
• 8GB Red LED Ram
  
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QJEJpBNm_VY
  
  
• Optional - Red Sleeved Cable extensions to clean up and match the red/black look even more.
  
  
• Optional - NZXT Red Adjustable LED strip
  
• 3 intensity levels or Off.
  
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XuMjp_AuF0Y
  
  PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
  
  Type|Item|Price
  :----|:----|:----
  CPU | Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $317.27 @ TigerDirect
  CPU Cooler | NZXT Kraken X61 106.1 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $122.99 @ SuperBiiz
  Motherboard | ASRock Fatal1ty Z97X Killer ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $119.99 @ Micro Center
  Memory | Avexir Core Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $79.99 @ NCIX US
  Storage | *Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $58.99 @ NCIX US
  Storage | *Western Digital Caviar Green 1TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.50 @ Newegg
  Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Video Card | $329.98 @ NCIX US
  Case | NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $69.98 @ Amazon
  Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $49.99 @ NCIX US
  | | Total
  | Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $1200
  |
  |
  Optional | Finishing touches to give a full Custom build look
  Sleeved Cable| EPS 8-Pin Extension Cable - Red Sleeve| $10.00
  Sleeved Cable| ATX 24-Pin Extension Cable - Red Sleeve| $15.00
  Sleeved Cable| PCI-E 6-Pin Extension Cable - Red Sleeve| $10.00
  Sleeved Cable| PCI-E 6-Pin Extension Cable - Red Sleeve| $10.00
  LED Lighting| NZXT Adjustable LED Light strip. (Red)| $15.00
  | | Optional Parts
  | | $60
  

No it doesn't charge. According to one of the comments in the Amazon reviews:

> This cable appears to be a USB-to-Serial adapter similar to http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-USB-RS-232-Serial-Converter/dp/B0007T27H8 , only instead of coming out at a 9-pin RS232 connector, it comes out at proprietary 3-pin connector.
>
>With that in mind, it's important to note that the cable all by itself, before ever attaching a dive computer, requires drivers. With drivers installed, this cable (again, before ever attaching the dive computer) shows up in Windows as a new COM device (COM7 specifically on my laptop, but yours might enumerate differently).
>
> Knowing that this isn't "just a USB cable" helps to explain why this would be a relatively expensive cable, but at ~$90, you're still at a price points that's at least double what it should be.

I have a USB to TTL Serial Converter that I've used for programming ATmega chipsets and has TXD, RXD 3V3, GND and +5V ports, I just need to figure out which ones are which. I'm guessing I'd use the TXD and RXD, but which else should I use?

here , not 20 but close enough, these are the ones I got.

https://www.amazon.com/CableMod-Basic-Cable-Extension-Kit/

​

But solid white which I don't see as any option anymore.

>Finally, I hate that the CDX doesn't have standard controller port spacing. I like to use the Sega-brand wireless controllers, but they are incompatible with the CDX due to their receiver's form factor.

A couple of these could help with that. It wouldn't be pretty though.

Not sure if it helps, but here are some manufactured options:

RJ45 to DB9

USB to DB9 Female

USB to DB9 Male

You cannot connect to it directly from your network interface card. What you need is a roll-over console cable and a usb-to-serial adapter.

http://www.amazon.com/Generic-HKUS-FB000GL3MOYT-T000650F-Cisco-Console-RJ45-to-DB9/dp/B000GL3MOY

http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-RS-232-Serial-Converter-TU-S9/dp/B0007T27H8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1415759891&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+to+serial

USB to your computer, connect the serial ends and plug the RJ45 into the console port of the switch.

Once you have done that, you'll need to select SERIAL connection from putty, you can find what COM port your usb-to-serial device is on by going to devices and printers in windows. Change the COM port in putty to match, and make sure the connection settings are:

Bits per sec : 9600
Data bits : 8
Parity : none
Stop bits : 1
Flow control : none

click connect and press a key if you see no output on the screen.

like this https://www.amazon.com/CableMod-Basic-Cable-Extension-Kit/dp/B01MYY2CQQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1537331438&sr=1-4&keywords=Cablemod%2BPCIe%2Bextensions&th=1

​

So here is what I came up with, I went completely balls to the walls because we had the budget for it! It is how-ever possible to spend less money on looks and then add that saved money for a 2nd GTX 970. Wich would increase performance by about 30-40% depending on game, resolution, settings.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $179.99 @ Micro Center
CPU Cooler| RAIJINTEK TRITON| $99.00 @ Newegg
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $109.99 @ Microcenter
Memory | A-Data XPG V1.0 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $59.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $109.99 @ Micro Center
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $101.46 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE 3X Video Card | $329.99 @ Newegg
Case | Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case | $99.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $83.49 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | BitFenix Spectre 47.4 CFM 200mm Fan | $12.99 @ SuperBiiz
Case Fan | be quiet! Pure Wings 2 61.2 CFM 140mm Fan | $11.90 @ Newegg
Case Fan | be quiet! SilentWings 2 50.5 CFM 120mm Fan | $20.90 @ Newegg
Case Fan | be quiet! SilentWings 2 50.5 CFM 120mm Fan | $20.90 @ Newegg
Lightning| Logisys 12" White LED | $14.00 @ Microcenter
Cables| Bitfenix Alchemy Multisleeve Red: 24PIN PWR| $12.00 @ FrozenCPU
Cables| Bitfenix Alchemy Multisleeve Red: 6PIN PCI-E| $9.00 @ FrozenCPU
Cables| Bitfenix Alchemy Multisleeve Red: 8PIN PCI-E| $11.00 @ Amazon
Cables| Bitfenix Alchemy Multisleeve Red: 8PIN EPS| $10.00 @ Amazon
Cables| Delux Sata cables RED| $5.00 @ Microcenter
Furniture| Ikea wall shelf| $23.00 @ Ikea
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $1324.58
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-16 10:16 EST-0500 |

---

My rationale for the chosen products:

---

• CPU: Intel quad-core clocked at 3,5GHz with a boost up to 3,9GHz. It's unlocked as well so overclocking is possible. This is enough for all modern games even at stock speeds, but you will see some performance increase in certain games.
  
• CPU Cooler: Well I highly suggest this cooler, when I want a badass looking PC. As it got clear tubing wich make you able to fill the loop with any colour you like. You get red with it. Here is how it looks. It's expandable as well so you could later buy a waterblock and tubing, liquid for your GPU and watercool that as well. How-ever I would suggest to get an extra radiator as well. It as well performs very well. It beats the H100i wich is a very populair AIO. Sadly I can't seem to find the only english review I found about this CPU cooler as of yet.
  
• Motherboard: Went for a Gigabyte Z97 "gaming" edition board. The gaming actually makes sense now. It got improved on-board audio with a seperate PCB for the high quality audio components. Wich does reduce the interference, this improves the clearance of the sound. It as well got a killer NIC. This is a network chip that prioritise games and streams over other random internet stuff, resulting in a slighly better latency (ping) and stable connection. Lastly it as well features SLI. This is an option to add a 2nd graphics card later, note that you want the exact same one. Nvidia is very strickt with this.
  
• Memory: RAM is RAM. The only thing that really matters is capacity. 8GB is enough for gaming. So I went with a 2x4GB, 1600MHz, CL9 kit from A-Data. This as well leaves the option to upgrade to 16GB later if you need it.
  
• Storage: 256GB SSD & 3TB HDD. This is a lot of storage and should be enough for a while. You can always add more later if need be. Here is a very detailed review of this SSD. You can skip to the "conclusion" if you don't want to bother with the all the details. Spoiler: 9,8/10. The 3TB HDD is just from a reputable brand, almost most drives perform roughly the same, so it doesn't matter to much wich one you get.
  
• Video Card: This is the beauty of the system. Maxwell is the latest architecture that got some great features. the GTX970 got this architecture and is one of the best value/performance for high end cards. Here is a great review that talks about the features that Maxwell got. I know it's the GTX980 but the 970 got all these features as well. Here is a great review of the card that I suggested. The card is very silent wich is nice. I as well went for this card because of the looks. It's a nice black design and got a white LED in it.
  
• Case: I went for my favourite case. The Phanteks Enthoo Pro, it is awesome, it's very easy to work in. Here is a great review. Note: the PSU cover is now attached with thumb screws, wich is a little bit easier. It is aimed towards watercooling, so our AIO will fit without a problem. I worked in this case myself and it's amazing. Had no problems at all and it looks very clean.
  
• Case fans: The stock fans are "fine" but they do get slightly on the louder side once they start to spin up. So I decided to replace them. The Bitfenix Spectre 200mm in the front. The Be Quiet Pure in the rear (both places the stock fans come pre-mounted). Then the 2 Be Quiet SilentWings for the AIO. This won't be a big difference as far as I can tell. But this will look better as these fans are completely black.
  
• Case Light: It's understandable that you want "red" as your lights. But this is in my opinion a big mistake when you allready have a lot of red in your system. This will kill the whole red theme as it makes everything blurred out. So that's why I suggest a white LED strip instead. This will make the red colours pop out and will make it look awesome. Here is my build. This picture was taken during the day with a lot of light in my room, so the white LED strips don't really make themself visable. But if I would use a soft yellow or whatever colour aside from white. The colours wouldn't pop out as nice.
  
• Power Supply: 10 year warrenty, 80+ gold, fully-modular black sleeved cables, 750W PSU from EVGA. 750W is way overkill for this system, that will pull around 300-350W at most. This means plenty of room for an SLI configuration. Here is a review from in my mind the best PSU reviewer. Spoiler: 9,8/10. There is only 1 PSU so far that got a 10. So this is very impressive.
  
• Cables: I went for RED extension cables and 2 SATA cables. This is not really needed, but just looks awesome. It are extension cables, so all you have to do is plug them on the end of the cables of the PSU - then towards the unit. So PSU > PSU Cable > Extension cable > Unit.
  
• Furniture: Hah! Yeah, you need this! When you get a nice looking PC. It's awesome to be able to see it, rather then having it sit on the floor. It as well is better against dust to have it off the floor. You can of course look for your own shelf and I don't know if this will even fit on your wall. But hey, there are other options. Just make sure that it can handle the weight. Wich will be around 20kg / 44lbs and that it is big enough. 30cm by 70cm is possible.
  
  ---
  
  

  Hope you like it and If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
  

  
  ---
  

USB and old-school serial are completely different. You can get a USB-serial adapter for very cheap online though. A lot cheaper than $25.

edit: for example: http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-USB-RS-232-Serial-Converter/dp/B0007T27H8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421088980&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+serial

Adapter

Maybe this could lead you in the right direction.

http://www.amazon.com/BitFenix-Alchemy-Multisleeve-6-Pin-Extension/dp/B00HVBP9JI/ref=pd_bxgy_pc_text_y

https://www.amazon.com/Serial-Female-Mouse-Adapter-Convertor/dp/B00HHAR4QY

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Prolific-Chipset-CableCreation-Converter/dp/B0758B6MK6

How does $28 sound for all 4 cables? ($25 + $3 shipping)

Also, these are the 6-Pins you would want to get to match: http://www.amazon.com/BitFenix-Alchemy-Multisleeve-6-Pin-Extension/dp/B00HVBP9JI/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1450305996&

Question for you, will this kit work for my GTX 1080 FTW?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYY2CQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5lnVAbKB121GT

Or will I need to buy an extra 8 pin since my GPU is a 8 + 8?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077QR27ZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TtnVAbZY1XH7C

it's an old type of computer interface

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RS-232

You can buy a serial to USB converter though and use them on a modern computer just fine.

example:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Converter-Prolific-Chipset-CB-DB9P/dp/B00IDSM6BW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521575806&sr=8-1&keywords=serial+to+USB

just google serial to USB on amazon, monoprice, or whatever.

The Prolific Serial -> USB is what you use to plug into your PC.

Switch Console port -> Cisco Console to Serial cable -> serial to USB adapter -> USB port on PC

Cisco console cable: https://www.amazon.com/Cisco-72-3383-01-Rollover-Console-Female/dp/B005S2KPPU/

Prolific Serial to USB adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Converter-Prolific-Chipset-CB-DB9P/dp/B00IDSM6BW/

They have console -> usb cables, but YMMV on that.

Because that's totally a problem that can't be fixed for $10.36 for same day delivery.

Of course, I need this stuff for work, as my job occasionally has me working with legacy factory equipment.

> guess would be that this is, in fact, a host port on the router. Both cables are active and the two sides ... are both peripherals

Interesting. You're speculating that the Cisco USB-USB cable is, in fact, the unholy marriage of a pair of these and one of these.

That's a strong theory, I like it. Well, like might be too strong of a word, but at least it tempers my horror a bit :)

> couldn't find the damn thing. Extended the outage

This. It's just stupid/awful.

If you have a non-modular, extensions are the way to go. They literally are extension cables that you plug in the mustard and ketchup cable in one end and the MB in the other.

Here is a green 24 pin motherboard extension:
http://www.amazon.com/BitFenix-Alchemy-Multisleeve-24-Pin-Extension/dp/B00HVBPQWS

And here is the 6pin PCIe for your GPU (x2):
http://www.amazon.com/BitFenix-Alchemy-Multisleeve-6-Pin-Extension/dp/B00HVBPCRM

That may work. I haven't used one like that personally.

I use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Compatible-RS-232-DB9-Connector-Prolific/dp/B00425S1H8/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?keywords=usb+serial&qid=1574990295&sr=8-16

+

https://www.amazon.com/Cisco-72-3383-01-Rollover-Console-Female/dp/B005S2KPPU/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?keywords=cisco+console+cable&qid=1574990384&sprefix=cisco+co&sr=8-15


This gives you some flexibility to also use it with some network equipment that uses a db9 serial port instead of rj45

This worked for me on an Orion Sirius/HEQ5:

RS232 male to USB: https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Converter-Prolific-Chipset-TU-S9/dp/B0007T27H8/

This cable goes from synscan controller to the RS232 male: https://www.amazon.com/Celestron-Nexstar-232-Interface-Cable/dp/B0000665UZ

So you plug the trendnet RS232 male to USB into your laptop or PC, install the driver, plug the Celestron RS232 cable RJ11 bit into your synscan controller, then connect the trendnet RS232 male to the Celestron RS232 female. Viola! For me, the RJ11 bit was incredulously easy to become dislodged from the controller even if the RJ11 was clipped in properly. Even if you pulled the cable out just a centimeter, the connection between the mount and PC would be dropped. I solved it by shoving the RJ11 in as far as I could then taping it in place. Of course, YMMV, but I was on the brink of just getting an eqdirect cable until I figured it out.

Hope it helps!

Yeap. that's all I use with mine. If you're running windows, you just have to make sure you have the drivers, and check which COM port it registered as in Device Manager. Putty is free and works great.

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Serial-Adapter-U209-000-R/dp/B00005V52C/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1505512809&sr=8-5&keywords=usb+serial

https://www.amazon.com/Cisco-72-3383-01-Rollover-Console-Female/dp/B005S2KPPU/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1505512856&sr=8-7&keywords=rj45+db9

Something like this will work:
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-TU-S9-USB-Serial-Converter/dp/B0007T27H8?th=1

https://www.amazon.com/HDE-9-Pin-Serial-Ethernet-Console/dp/B00979DMSM/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1478907245&sr=1-2&keywords=serial+to+ethernet

I have a D-Link DGS-3024 switch, and it has a female console port, do I just need a regular serial to USB cable?

http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-RS-232-Serial-Converter-TU-S9/dp/B0007T27H8/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1380836922&sr=8-14&keywords=male+console+cable

https://smile.amazon.com/CableMod-Basic-Cable-Extension-Kit/dp/B01MRVQ1XR/ref=sr_1_5?crid=8BBLPF23EL8O&keywords=cablemod+extension+kit&qid=1555913868&s=gateway&sprefix=cablemod%2Caps%2C202&sr=8-5

Cheapest option I can find at the moment: Have it by Wednesday for $4 with free Amazon Prime shipping -- http://www.amazon.com/Generic-7-Cisco-Console-RJ45-to-DB9/dp/B000GL3MOY/

And a cheap USB-to-DB9 adapter: http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-USB-RS-232-Serial-Converter/dp/B0007T27H8/

Digital Organizers, now that's nostalgia. So you can get a USB to Serial Dongle, but that might just be half the problem, the software to actually read the data might be outdated.

I think the easiest way is to add the contacts manually to the phone and then delete them from the Sharp device. Now you didn't mention the phone so I have no idea how we can help you with that.

Also its possible that while you have 30 years of contacts, maybe not all of them are relevant for one reason or another, so think of this as a digital spring cleaning and only add the contacts you actually need to your phone.

I was just reading about null modems for file transfer. I'm having a rather hard time locating a good walk-through. A lot to learn with all this, which is why I am doing it I suppose. A link to some good tutorials would be appreciated so I can stop bothering you

Would this work: StarTech Null Modem - female to male

Sabrent USB to Serial Converter

Can I simply do the copy command via my Windows 10 command prompt or should I be booting some sort of MS DOS installation? Also, can you elaborate more on avoiding IRQ 4? Would I need to buy a separate serial adapter card?

EDIT: Upon further research it looks like there may be more to it than just the simple copy command, including having to initialize the com port beforehand with speeds and stuff I am not familiar with. However I am unable to locate anything conclusive. Other people have to have done this to be able to use mTCP at all so I am puzzled why my googlefu is failing me

would a basic extension kit(8+6pin) by cable mod be enough?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6F4WTA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2UGMDPNFNIL9E&psc=1

here is a link

Aha! I've downloaded the MCP-2A software and ordered this cable which looks like an excellent substitute for only $8. No Fry's around here unfortunately.

I'm going to connect my HT (a Yaesu FT-60R) to my mobile antenna and give the TNC another go a bit later.

Damn, you're prepared! Since I don't find myself doing this very often, I just picked up one of these.

I got this cable and this adapter. I had to install the adapter driver on the disk to get the thing to work. Then find the com port in the device manager. Once I did that I was able to get a serial connection establish.

I then fumbled my way through the CLI, set up a default gateway and when I was able to get to the Web GUI. Also the default gateway cannot be the same as your router. I tried because I didn't know better and it didn't work.

I don't know a lot, but with a good bit of google I was able to get it working.

I was looking around and someone posted this cable along with this adapter and looking at the questions one was a nortel engineer that recommended it and said it works with their products. Ill give it a go when it all arrives. What program did you use to connect to the switch via console? Telnet? Screen? Putty? Thanks for the info about the gateway i wouldnt have known. Looks like im going to have to do a good amount of research when setting it up since i dont know much.

Went back to my OP and provided the links to Amazon below for each:

Raspberry Pi (pick a flavor but it needs to have an available USB port. Go for a B+ or Pi 3)
Install tcpser - read the docs and install his update, which has some improvements over the APT version.
sudo apt-get install screen (so you can run tcpser in the background)

Now, the hardware:

This “6 Ft Apple/Mac to HAYES Modem Cable” (Mini-DIN 8M to DB25M) link

A 6-ft DB25M to USB RS232 cable (for the RasPi/tcpser option) link

A DB25F/DB25F gender changer link

Lastly, my command line (insert in /etc/rc.local once you test):

su - pi -c "screen -dm -S tcpser /home/pi/tcpser/tcpser -s 19200 -l 7 -d /dev/ttyUSB0 -tsS -i\&k0"

Adjusting for the actual path to tcpser and desired baud rate. The Plus and SE (therefore, everything else newer than these) can handle 19.2k with no problem.)

Also important: plug in the USB cable and "cat /dev/ttyUSB*" to see which USB interface enumerates - should be 0 - but check and adjust if needed.

What you're doing here is opening a screen session, setting to 19,200 bps, pointing it to listen on the virtual USB serial port, debug-level logging and disable flow control (via AT command). If you want to test without screen (and should), just delete everything prior to /path/to/tcpser.

THEN, if this is all working correctly, you need to launch ZTerm/MacTerminal/etc, set the baud rate to 19,200, ANSI if possible and save. You should be able to type 'AT' and get back a familiar 'OK.' Then it's just a matter of going all 'ATDTbbs.fozztexx.com' to get your feet wet.

I would then recommend looking into installing SLiRP on your Pi, which can provide a PPP stack for your "dial-up" machine (like any old dial-up ISP) but start simple.

Good luck!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007T27H8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Works fine on windows and linux

If you are familiar with linux, I'd recommend heyu. I've been using it and X10 for about the last 15 years or so, and it works great. I think at the beginning, I was using some other software, but I don't recall what it was.

Someone mentioned "phases" and yes, this can be a problem. However, the bigger problem for me at least is CFLs. They introduce so much noise on the line, that the X10 signals get lost in said noise. I use only incandescent and dimmable LEDs and it works great.

If you do need another serial port, just make sure you get one with RTS pin exposed, like this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007T27H8

I've test with 2 USB to serial adapters This and This. OP of the article uses This 4 to 1 cable but I personally thought it was a bit expensive.

I have the rasp pi 2. It should work with all versions though.

I haven't tested with a usb hub just yet. But I can and will. I don't see why you would need a powered one though.


wifi adapter

Yeah, all of the Kenwoods all work the same.. I hope you didn't spend a ton of money on a Kenwood cable.. This cable works perfectly:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068OER/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the cable I used when setting it up. I just stuck a female-female null modem adapter on the end (had to remove the screws for it to fit)

For interfacing, I used a paid app on my Macbook. It's just called "Serial", it's got some nice features and UI.

I'll add this item, you will need to talk to your switches: USB to Serial

Do you already have the center serial cable? If so, then you can pick up a cheap usb/serial converter cable.

Update on that, problem solved. It was a simple as...reinstalling win7 and everything is working fine. It had something to do with my usb ports acting jankey for an unknown reason, it wouldn't even 'install' a flash drive, even through it's always worked before.
At any rate, being able to actually use the MCP-6A should speed things along.

BTW, using the Hosa synthesizer cable for programming (http://amzn.com/B000068OER), works perfectly.

Here's an old image that I gave to someone to test:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/owvhmhxt3w6c31n/stratux-serialout_test.img.zip?dl=0

Tested with this: http://amzn.com/B0007T27H8

On a Chelton EFIS.

If you end up trying it, please post the hardware you used and how it worked. It should work just as a normal stratux does on the Wi-Fi network, but send the data over serial at the same time.

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Serial-RS-232-Converter-CB-DB9P/dp/B00IDSM6BW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479225100&sr=8-1&keywords=9pin+serial+to+usb ?

USB stands for universal serial port. You can use it. You just might need need an adapter like this one.