So our cleaning lady accidentally put my rep Chanel espadrilles in the donation bin a few months ago and last week I received a replacement from the same seller (AliExpress guy I added on whatsapp). They were the same size (37) but fit tighter and a tad shorter than my old ones :cries: so I went to Amazon to get a 4 way shoe tree to stretch them and came across this spray. OMG it was like a miracle! I sprayed in and out, put in the trees and left overnight. This morning they were perfect! Even loose enough to wear with thin no-show socks.

I know breaking in shoes can literally be a pain so I figured sharing this might help someone. Have a great day ladies!

What you want is a suede eraser and suede brush. Rub it with the eraser, then the brush. Repeat as needed. It might not get it absolutely perfect but it'll make a big difference.

WHAT IN THE FUCK BRO.....

>I've heard sandpapering helps

As a fellow sneaker restorer I just cried tears of death.

If you're serious, there's a few options, depending on how much time you have on your hands.

Salon Care 40

Sole Bright

and as others have said the magic eraser.

The 40 solution is practically the main ingredient which other knock off brands have used for their "de-yellowing, of mid soles, process".

I actually oil my case with mink oil about once a month, which aside from keeping the leather conditioned and waterproofed also really enhances the patina. I also actively try to not baby the case too much. You can see how pristine and uniform the iPhone 6 case looks. I was so frustrated with how boring it looked after two whole years that, for the iPhone 7, I swore I would overcome my OCD and let the case get beat up. Intense mental training deep in the Appalachian wilderness followed. But I feel like it came out a success!

EDIT: also here's some mink oil on amazon for six bucks and prime shipping so you can have it for launch day :D https://smile.amazon.com/Sof-Sole-Preserving-Waterproofing-3-5-Ounce/dp/B003EMABT6/ one tin has lasted me over two years so far, and it's only about half used up. And you can use it on all top-grain leather stuff, not just the phone case!

EDIT2: I don’t get why everyone is downvoting you, fwiw I got the sarcasm haha. You got my upvote :)

I used to work in a work boot store, so let me give you some tips on boot care.

• I would highly recommend changing out whatever laces your boots come with to leather laces. Leather laces last longer and can be cut to length.
  
  
• If you kneel a lot and the toes of your boots are rubbing on the ground, I'd get Boot Saver Toe Guards. They'll extend the life of your boots a bit further.
  
  
• At the end of the day, wipe whatever is on your boots off. It doesn't have to sparkle, just get the majority of the gunk off.
  
  
• Anywhere from once a week to once every two weeks, wax or oil your boots. I recommend Obenauf's, but any leather wax/oil will do. Huberd's Shoe Grease is a good alternative if you're looking for something cheaper.
  
  
• Alternate between two pairs of boots. Two $100 pairs of boots will (usually) last longer than one $200 pair of boots.
  
  If there was one boot that fit all of your criteria, that company would be the only boot maker in the world. If you're looking for a boot that will work year round, I'd get something with GoreTex for waterproofing and then wear thick wool socks in the winter. Also, get something with a Vibram sole. Those tend to last the longest in my experience. My recommendations are as follows:
  
  
• Danner Vicious 4.5" Plain Toe is a good general purpose boot. It does have a GoreTex liner, a Vibram sole, and tends to be pretty comfortable. If you have wide feet, this does tend to run wider through the ball of the foot. Cons, it has a glued on sole(usually doesn't last as long as stitch-down soles) and a composite shank(doesn't offer as much support as a steel shank). I personally prefer shorter boots, but if you'd like more ankle support, it does come in an 8" version.
  
  
• Georgia's 8" Loggers are styled more like traditional boots. They're great for arch and ankle support if that's more your speed. It does have a non-GoreTex waterproof liner, but Georgia usually does pretty well in that department. Cons, its pretty heavy. Not terribly heavy, but worth mentioning.
  
  Of course, every foot is different, so definitely find a local boot store and try a few options on.

My favorite shoe cleaning supplies

Angelus Water and Stain Repellant, Clear


Kiwi 209-000 Suede and Nubuck Care Kit


Shacke Suede & Nubuck 4-Way Leather Brush Cleaner



E6000 230010 Craft Adhesive, 3.7 Fluid Ounces

Saphir Renomat 100ml

B&E LIFE 5 Pairs Practical Plastic Adjustable Length Men Shoe Tree Stretcher Boot Holder Organizers 5 Pairs Black

You could get shoe trees for much cheaper, from Ikea for example but I just wanted to link something.

Angelus Easy Cleaner 8 Oz.


These brushes are the absolute best if you know better brushes let me know


Angelus Sole Bright 4 Oz Salon care 40 works too



IRIS USA, Inc. CNL-5 Storage Box, 5 Quart, Clear, 20 Pack


Dr. Scholl's WORK Massaging Gel Advanced Insoles (Men's 8-14) // All-Day Shock Absorption and Cushioning for Hard Surfaces (Packaging May Vary), 1 Count

EB Kicks,


If you know of any better products please let me know I don't believe I missed anything

This video is stupid helpful for white sneakers

Get Jordan 1 Glitter outta your shoes

I posted this on the other thread too, but I can't recommend these enough. After I broke my kneecap on the ice two weeks ago, I've been using these whenever I go out. I couldn't detect loss of traction on sidewalks last night, even when people walking next to me were slipping.

They make rubber overshoes you can slip on over your dress shoes.

They're perfect for keeping the salt off of leather shoes. Not quite stylish, but very practical.

Woodlore shoe trees (currently $19.95 at time of posting, price can fluctuate)

Low Budget

Sweater - JCF
Belt - DIY or Orion
Pants - Unbranded 101
Boots - CDB Beeswax, Mink Oil

Higher Budget

Sweater - Rag and Bone
Belt - Vermilyea Pelle
Pants - Raleigh
Boots - I don't know, I'm pretty poor

Awesome job! I want to make something like this one day but feel I am a far ways off in terms of skill at this point. It'll happen eventually.

Mind sharing where you purchased the hardware?

If you don't mind a suggestion, I think it would be worth considering waxing/finishing the flesh side that shows on your handle in the 5th photo (could still be done with what is visible). It gives the backside of that handle a more finished look. I came from the boot world first, so I have been using venetian shoe cream. This is what Nick Horween suggests to maintain their waxed flesh leather. Here is sort of a 'before and after' example. I see people use tokanole, which may work better but I do not have experience.

Those look like nubuck, which is not exactly suede (it's the smooth side of the leather rather than the roughed out side). Here's a wikihow on how to clean nubuck. Since they're white, I'd also recommend kiwi shoe whitener to see if it will bring out the original color.

Have you tried shoe stretch spray in conjunction with a shoe stretcher?

It seems the leather is pretty soft and pliable on the espadrilles so I'm sure it would work. Do you need more width or more length?? I've stretched several pairs of rep shoes both width and length wise (including Gucci Brixtons and Prada brouges) with great success that way.

I've ordered a couple pairs of these waxed cotton laces for some Aldens and I'm really happy with them -

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007BCUHEY/ref=ya_aw_oh_pit

We lived in Juneau, AK for several years, still have a couple of pairs of these we brought back with us. Looks like I will be getting them out tomorrow.

There seems to be quite a lot of variety in regards to care methods, but here are my thoughts. These are shoes that can last, if maintained properly.

I'd suggest you invest in saddle soap, a stiff brush, cedar shoe trees and some mink oil, all of which comes to under $35 USD.

• After a day of wear: Brush any mud or debris off of them, and put in the shoe trees. This will aid in drying and keeping form. The quick drying, combined with the cedar wood will keep odour to a minimum.
  
  
• Every 3 to 4 weeks: Use a soft cloth to apply some mink oil, let it set, then buff it off. This will give water protection and condition the leather. N.B. It will darken the leather, but as they age, this will help the overall patina.
  
  
• Every season, or when they've become considerably soiled: Brush them clean, then give them a hardy scrub with the saddle soap. This will clean off the deeper set dirt and any oil build up. You may lose some of your hard earned patina, but this will come back. After cleaning, dry on your shoe trees and then apply mink oil as noted above.
  
  As for breaking them in, wear them around the house and out and the leather will soften quite quickly. As LabiaMinora mentioned, loafer (hidden) socks are great if you find them irritating, or prefer socks. Also, many have suggested using Gold Bond or similar powders to control sweating and odour. This is fine, just remember to clean the inside of your shoes as well. Particulate buildup will do them no good.
  
  So, that's the brief intro to full grain leather boat shoe care. Good luck!

From what I've read online there are equal camps USE SADDLE SOAP! and NEVER USE SADDLE SOAP ON FAUX LEATHER, but I once wore my new (unwashed) jeans with a Steve Madden faux leather jacket as well as my pale grey leather Cuyana tote...both had black dye marks all over them ): Luckily I got most of it off with a cloth and warm water, but after that, I found that using saddle soap on the remainder (faint, but still present) made the marks on both almost completely unnoticeable. Not perfect, but very nearly - it seems like really only I notice because I know it's there!

If you try saddle soap, I would test a tiny bit of fabric on the inside/some other out of sight part of the jacket to see if there's any adverse reaction. Good luck!

wouldn't these solve your problems on both fronts for much cheaper?
you just take them off and pimp the dress shoes.

• Shoe trees - Jos. A Bank has sales. Look at Nordstrom Rack too.
  
• Lexol conditioner
  
• Venetian shoe cream (though lots of people swear by coconut oil)
  
• Damp cloth (pretty sure you have one already)
  
  Put shoe trees in them whenever they're not in use. Don't wear them everyday. Let them sit with shoe trees in for a day after you wear them before wearing them again.
  
  Once a month, maybe once every 3 months, do this: Wipe shoes down with damp cloth, apply conditioner, let sit for a while. If you're happy with how they look, you're done! If you're not, apply the venetian shoe cream or coconut oil. Rub in until it's got the kind of shine you want.
  
  If you want to get more serious, check the r/goodyearwelt leather care guide.
  
  

How tight should shoe trees fit into your shoes?

I've had a pair of these shoe trees for a while. They're a size medium, and I wear a 9D. That's apparently the right size.

They go pretty 'deep' into the shoe, but they definitely have a bit of resistance, and the 'heel' of the shoe tree is definitely engaging the spring, even at fully inserted position.


I just got these when I ordered some Bucks. I also ordered Mediums, and according to the chart, that's the proper size. These are much looser overall (in my other shoes too, not just the new ones.) The spring is much more lightly engaged when it's fully inserted.

They expand a bit, but they aren't pushing against the heel of the shoe nearly as much as my other pair. The others definitely aren't TOO big for the shoe, but I'm wondering if these are okay, or if I should upsize?

Basically, I never thought about how much force there should be in there.

I've used the following shoe cleaning procedure:

1. Clean with Saddle Soap.
   
   
2. When dry, immediately condition with Leather Honey. Allow honey leather to soak in for 24 hours. Condition again if necessary and wait again.
   
   
3. Apply Hubberds Shoe Grease.
   
   Edit: Leather Honey darkens most leathers I've applied it to. The original color returns over time. The leather after is so amazingly soft that I don't care what it does to the color. If anyone is struggling to break in a pair of boots you might consider trying a thick coat of leather honey.
   
   2nd Edit: This procedure has been successful for me. I won't swear by it or claim it is the end all. It is just how I liked cleaning my own shoes. Please note: God damn I hate shoe people.
   
   
   

Get a Kiwi leather care kit and some leather conditioner

• Brush off your shoes with the brush
  
  
• Use a damp sponge to wipe off any remaining dirt (if they are exceptionally dirty you can use saddle soap)
  
  
• Dry off with a rag
  
  
• Apply the leather conditioner, let dry/absorb and buff with the chimois
  
  
• Apply polish with the sponge applicator, let dry for like an hour
  
  
• Brush shoes again, then buff again with the chimois.
  
  Also it looks like your toes are starting to separate, in which case I'd use some Shoe Goo or just some super glue to readhere

• Norse Projects merino cable-knit socks in olive drab and shitake, and wool/nylon blend socks in grey melange and cacao.
  
  
• Big ol' tub of Venetian shoe cream
  
  
• 3 horse hair brushes from Kiwi (a little overkill)
  
  
• Gray pants

clothing: BD Alpine Start softshell, patagonia r1 hoody, puffy vest, long tights, capris, light-weight long sleeve base layer, wool socks, hat, mittens, fleece headband.

food: S-caps, gummies, bobo bars, larabars.

gear: nathan pack, kahtoola microspikes, trail shoes, sunglasses

misc: headlamp, sunscreen, toilet paper, plastic bags, lip balm.


what I take definitely varies by distance and conditions, especially in the winter. There are days when I'll want everything on that list, other days when I can get away with just a tshirt, a pair shorts, and shoes.

Unless you are doing some serious hiking on ice, these crampons are all you need.

First, start with it being clean. Wash your sheets at least once a month, more if you are a sweaty/stinky type person. Dirty clothes can be kept in a non-cloth hamper with a top. If the hamper gets stinky you can toss used drier sheets in the bottom of it and tape a new one to the top. Stinky shoes can be fixed with scented shoe balls. Everything else is just general upkeep- no dishes with food or whatever on them, etc. If you do all of that, you should be golden. If it is still a little dank because of an old building or adjoining rooms, you can use a manly smelling candle like sandalwood, other wood scents, Midsummer Night by yankee, or IKEA has a honey scent. But do not try to cover up STINK with a candle. It just makes it worse. Get rid of the stink first.

TZ laces

You can use one of these to extend the length - they really work!

https://www.amazon.com/Stretcher-Widener-Adjustable-Expander-Included/dp/B0773HD6YR

Mine haven't been repaired at all. I periodically rub a little Huberd's Shoe Grease on them when they look thirsty, and I try to brush them off if they're covered in fine sand or concrete dust or something like that, but otherwise, they pretty much just do what they're doing.

I wore these https://www.amazon.com/STABILicers-Walk-Stabilicers-Traction-Cleat/dp/B000GUEAVO/ and it was great, not a single slip!

Ya gotta be a TOUGH MANLY MAN to make it through NorthEast winters.....

Just kidding, man. It's a great question, actually. This is my experience...

You're going to need wool socks to keep your feet warm. I personally like Darn Tough socks and some from a label called Mountain View I got at Ocean State Job Lot for $4.00 (70% merino). You don't have to spend a ton of money to get wool socks. TJ Maxx and Marshalls have slightly irregulars on sale quite often around here. Not sure about California, tho. Avoid cotton socks. Run far, far away from acrylic socks. Look for socks that are mostly (>50%) wool. Nylon will give them some durability.

You're also going to need to learn how to take care of your boots! Maybe you do this already, but if not...

The simplest thing to do is wipe them off with a clean towel after you get back indoors.

You're also going to have to treat your leather boots with some kind of dressing. Frequency varies, but at least once a year. Once a month is probably overkill. So find something in-between that works for you.

This is strictly in my opinion and experience, but the two best products I've found for this are Obenauf's Leather Protector and Huberd's Shoe Grease. WARNING: Obenauf's WILL darken the leather. That's no big deal to me but for some people it's a non-starter. Huberd's doesn't seem to darken leather, but YMMV.

Lastly, Bick #4 does a real nice job of conditioning and cleaning leather shoes/boots. I only use this when I think my shoes/boots are looking a little grubby. Bick #4 does NOT darken leather at all.

I hope you get a chance to "enjoy" a "real winter" sometime soon. One of the most fun experiences I've ever had was hanging out with a buddy from India who had never experienced snow before. He thought it was glorious. It made me take a new look at it, and winter CAN be glorious if you want it to be.

The stuff you want is called Freesole.

I’m a size 10 and this thing has been a lifesaver: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0773HD6YR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ldFNDb4RH0WBK

I was able to salvage a pair of too small espadrilles and a pair of Gucci aces.

My biggest issue is the wind. If that's similar, look at overshoes to make you wind proof. Otherwise, layer warmer socks.
https://www.amazon.com/totes-Waterproof-Protective-Rubber-Overshoes/dp/B002NWZLSY

Happy lamp.

Might not be enough depending on the island, but...

Those are nubuck/suede not regular leather, don't do some of the recommendations here or you're going to ruin them. They sell suede cleaners specifically for this type of shoes. I have a similar that I clean with a suede eraser and brush the eraser removes the stain and the brush restores the nap (texture).

Here but it'll keep happening if you're wearing raw denim. So It'd probably be best for me to have 'em.

Invest in those cleats that you strap over your shoes. They’ve saved my ass, literally, hundreds of times.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GUEAVO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1/144-5153893-2917351?ie=UTF8&qid=1511821511&sr=1-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&dpPl=1&dpID=41-YRtKzo3L&ref=plSrch

these shoe trees should work just fine for your boot. i use them in my red wing heritage boots.

I see these bottles sold everywhere for $20. I like to use a generous amount of this stuff on my boots and camp mocs, so I go through these tiny bottles faster than I'd like.

I slapped my forehead when I found the exact same brand in a 32oz tin for about $42 (with shipping). That's $1.30 per oz as compared to $5.00 per oz when bought in a tiny glass bottle.

I am guessing that he cleaned them with a horsehair brush, wiped them down with water, let dry, cleaned with saddle soap, then conditioned with leather conditioner, oil, or shoe creme. Could have polished them with shoe polish and buffed them to a shine.

What's really cool is that you can get the stuff to do this at home (and you should) for something like $20. Then you can do it whenever your shoes need it. It's good preventative maintenance. I also started liking shoes a lot more once I started doing this myself. Here is a shopping list.

• saddle soap - $5.69
  
• neatsfoot oil - $5.94
  
• some old rags.. cotton tshirts or socks or whatever.
  
• shoe polish - $7.50.. but I am sure you can get it cheaper.
  
• brush - $3.50
  
  also check out allen edmonds site. they have cheap shoe care products and free shipping.

Shoe Goo is garbage. You want this stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/Gear-Aid-Freesole-Urethane-Repair/dp/B007UTZXT2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475066383&sr=8-1&keywords=freesole

That said, I've brought all kinds of random shoes into my local shoe repair guy and he just grinds off some of the old sole and adheres a new layer on. Never had one fall apart.

Simple Lexol conditioner will be more than sufficient the first time just to give the leather some life. Not sure how long they could've been sitting in the box before you purchased them. No need to go crazy with maintenance on those boots. Using a simple horsehair brush before each wear just to knock any dust off of them will be enough. Those boots are meant to take a beating, rain, dirt, mud, whatever - they'll be fine. No wax on them. Ever.

Leather conditioner is like the conditioner we put on our skin. Leather after all is skin, and it gets dried out. It just needs to get some moisture to it.

As far as a shoe tree - the one you linked is pretty nice and if you feel like spending the money for it that's fine. An inexpensive one like this will be more than sufficient..

I think Nordstroms half yearly sale may get you some pretty cheap shoe trees (~$15) too - may want to check over there first. The shoe trees are just there to provide some moderate shape to the boot. The leather is pretty thick on those and will be more than fine without it - but it'll keep any thick wrinkles from developing in the vamp. If you sweat a lot in the boots, the cedar provides some relief to the leather from the moisture build up.

https://smile.amazon.com/Kiwi-31600128009-Sport-Shoe-Whitener/dp/B000UDEBMA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8

Keep in mind pretty much everything you see there is above the treeline.

For spikes these are the ones I have. I have seen them recommended a lot and they have been fantastic for me. Easier to walk on ice with them than on the ground without.

Kahtoola MICROspikes Footwear Traction - Black Medium - 2015/16 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RXXJ0V2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kL64ybA640QM5

Care of leather is generally broken down into four or five-ish steps, depending on what type of leather you have, what products you are using, and what you are trying to achieve.

1. Clean
   
2. Condition
   
3. (Re-)color
   
4. Polish
   
5. Waterproof
   
   Cleaning and conditioning are the absolute essentials. The other 3 are optional.
   
   Cleaning your leather has different levels of aggressiveness. Core cleaning is wiping it with a soft cloth or brush. Next level up is wiping it down with water and a soft cloth (do not do this for suede). These two levels are pretty safe for all leathers. Next level up is to use a mild leather cleaner (many brands here, generally all labeled "leather cleaner"; also a product called saddle soap, which is slightly more aggressive), which generally isn't necessary, but in your case of using your boots for two seasons without any sort of care, you might want to do it. Care here: using leather cleaner will strip leather of oils, and will need to be immediately conditioned after the cleaning process is done. The final level to cleaning are heavier cleaners, intended to strip down the entire shoe of all waxes, and maybe even stripping down the finish itself. Mostly industrial/professional use at this point.
   
   Second step is conditioning the leather, or replenishing oils/waxes on the leather. Lots of products here, sold under a variety of names, but usually something like "leather conditioner," "cleaner/conditioner," or "leather lotion." Examples include Bick's, Venetian Shoe Cream (VSC, three links here), Saphir Renovateur (affectionately known as Reno), Allen Edmonds Conditioner Cleaner.
   
   A note about VSC: its name is "shoe cream," but it's generally regarded as a conditioner, and not a true shoe cream, which I will discuss below.
   
   The products discussed above are typically gentler, more fine conditioners. They are suitable in general for most any leather, but are excellent for higher-quality, soft calfskin or chromexcel leathers. They will also work on boots.
   
   For products such as boots, which are thicker, rougher, more outdoorsy leather, you might want a thicker, more protective product. To that end, there are more heavy leather dressings such as Pecard's leather dressing and Obenauf's LP. These also add a stronger water protective coating than the other coatings above (these have more wax), and may darken leather. Do not use these for finer leather goods, but this category of product may be perfect for your boots.
   
   For re-coloring (or coloring), there are, obviously, leather dyes. But there are also shoe creams, which are a bit of a blend of conditioners, polish, and color. There are also traditional shoe polish, which is a hard wax. Shoe polish does not usually provide conditioning, only color and polish. Shoe cream is more appropriate where you want deeper, more vibrant color restoration or color mixing; polish is more appropriate where you want a harder shine (dress shoe, perhaps some sort of army boot).
   
   Polishing is shine. Shine is really only desirable usually in dress shoes. Typical products are shoe creams (soft shine) and hard wax shoe polish (hard shine), discussed above. Also a bunch of chemical products like quick shines, shine sponges, and other things which I would avoid.
   
   Finally is waterproofing. Waterproofing can usually be achieved by using wax. And, coincidentally, most of the products above (conditioners (Pecard's, Obenauf's), shoe creams, shoe polish) contain wax. Shoe polish contains the most wax (as, obviously, it is a block of hard wax) and will provide the most water protection, but again, it might not be appropriate on your shoe as it also provides shine. There are also more chemical waterproof sprays / products that you can apply to your leather, which I would avoid. For example, the natur seal that you have seems to be silicone-based. I personally wouldn't use it.
   
   So, having said all of that, what should you buy? In your case, probably some sort of leather cleaner and conditioner. I like Pecard's, but you can go with any of the products I listed, or not listed as long as it fits within those general guidelines. If you're completely lost, you can just buy Red Wing's stuff, but it's important to understand what you're buying, so you know what it's doing and so you don't end up with a thousand different leather products from every company that all do essentially the same thing.
   
   [Edit] To be clear, I sort of went overboard in this guide. Steps 3 and 4 generally apply to dress shoes, not boots. For the case of your boots, I would generally ignore color and shine.

Angelus Sole Bright is specifically made for this.

https://smile.amazon.com/Venetian-Shoe-Cream-Ounces-Neutral/dp/B00QKXAGXW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1549726828&sr=8-5&keywords=venetian+shoe+cream

​

https://smile.amazon.com/Bickmore-Bick-Leather-Conditioner-16/dp/B001CS8G3C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549726850&sr=8-3&keywords=bick+4

​

I apologize, those links are for a lot smaller quantity than 32 Oz.

This one is for a 32 Oz. can, but it's asking for $9 shipping.

https://smile.amazon.com/Fore-Supply-Co-Neutral-Venetian/dp/B00A6GAT0Y/ref=pd_sbs_309_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00A6GAT0Y&pd_rd_r=2607ced0-2c81-11e9-888f-47f1b1d850e8&pd_rd_w=AFB3V&pd_rd_wg=8FnGV&pf_rd_p=588939de-d3f8-42f1-a3d8-d556eae5797d&pf_rd_r=1MKFN2KWN4KQZCVPFMRG&psc=1&refRID=1MKFN2KWN4KQZCVPFMRG

OK this is going to be long, so bear with me....

So I started in San Diego in late December and first stopped off at Zion National Park. I ran into a nasty snowstorm, and could barely get into campground section of the park. The Utah parks in the winter only plow every 2-3 days due to the lack of crowds (this was told to me by several park rangers, so just FYI). There wasn't much to do in Zion in winter since the Narrows and Angels Landing (the two biggest attractions) were particularly treacherous with ice and snow.

I continued on to Bryce Canyon. This was one of my winter favorites. I stayed in the campground there and was the only person. The snow was about a foot or two deep, and I stupidly didn't bring a shovel. I kicked a reasonable amount of snow out of the way, set up my tent and got to hiking. The park was blessedly empty and the snow was a gorgeous contrast to the orange and pink hues of the rocks. I highly recommend a winter stop here. The park is at over 9,000 ft, so keep that in mind for temperatures. It dropped to 0-10 degrees at night and was in the low 30's during the day. It was a very chilly night, but they have heated bathrooms! Seriously, best bathrooms I've ever seen in a National Park.

The gorgeous scenic route 12 is closed during the winter, and unfortunately, that's the shortest path to the next park, Capitol Reef. That park is otherworldly and usually skipped over in people's park trips. I was again the only person in the park and enjoyed an empty campground and empty trails. The colors there are unbelievable. You could probably just drive the main 15 mile drive and see the majority of the park if you're on a time crunch. The best way to move on from Bryce is go up 89 to 70 East and then come down the 191 to Moab.

The next park I went to was Dead Horse State Park. They hadn't plowed and the campground was closed, so I could only do a day trip, but it was well worth the stop before Canyonlands. Ahhhh Canyonlands. This park will ruin the Grand Canyon for you. There was again, very few people here, although more than the other parks due to the proximity of Moab (there really isn't a major town or city anywhere near the other parks that's actually open in winter). You really can only do a few trails in the center portion of the park as the rest of it is closed for winter. But, it's definitely worth the trip. I stayed in Canyonlands campground and it was so peaceful and quiet. It gave you that feeling of remoteness and isolation that is rarely to be had nowadays.

While staying at Canyonlands, I hiked through Arches. This park offered the most amount of available hiking during winter. Invest in some good crampons, like [microspikes]
(http://smile.amazon.com/Kahtoola-MICROspikes-Footwear-Traction-2015/dp/B00RXXJ0V2/ref=sr_1_1?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1458167182&sr=1-1&keywords=microspikes). They were absolutely necessary and I ended up rescuing a group of tourists after they got stuck up on an icy cliff. The temps in Moab stayed mild. At night it got down to the teens and during the day was in the 30's. I camped through yet another winter storm, which was... interesting to say the least. I was forced one particularly bad night to stay in a hotel in Moab and it was pretty reasonable. I remember the price being about $65 for a night.

I also made a trip out to the Four Corners to fulfill a life long dream of mine. After that, I stopped at Mesa Verde. Their campground was closed as well, but I didn't know that until I arrived since they hadn't updated their site. Check the NPS twitter feeds by the way! They had the most updated and reliable information, which was vital with the unpredictable winter weather. Mesa Verde was good for a day hike, but I had to move on to another park to stay the night. I tried Canyon De Chelle - same deal - closed for winter, along with Petrified Forest and Goblin Valley.

The grand finale was the Grand Canyon. Imagine my surprise when it was completely full! Holy cow is that park crowded! I've now been in summer, winter and fall, and I'd honestly be happy never going again. It's definitely a one time see before you die sort of thing, but I enjoyed the solitude of the Utah parks much more.

I've also stayed in Joshua Tree and Death Valley in the winter, as well as Yosemite. Joshua Tree and Death Valley are incredibly crowded in the winter, so show up very early to get a camping spot, or you'll go to "overflow" in a BLM area. Yosemite is crowded 24/7 and closes part of the park and its campgrounds in winter, so it can be hit or miss.

As far as supplies..... southern Utah is dead in the winter, so I was actually very happy I stocked my car before leaving, because I wasn't able to resupply until about 8 - 9 days into my trip at Moab, and even that city was mostly dead. I was really surprised at all of the ghost towns. Arizona stays open and active year round, so you'll be fine there. You'll have Kingman before the Grand Canyon and you can get everything you need there. You'll also be driving through a lot of Navajo territories, and they don't treat their roads very well. I had the most trouble driving in a few storms in those territories due to the lack of plowing and general conditions of the roads - massive pot holes, faded lines, stray dogs weaving through traffic. There are a few stores, but they're few and far between. California has nice weather year round, so you're not too far from a store to resupply.

Honestly, if you only have a few days, either hit Grand Canyon or Death Valley from San Diego. Both will be about a 5 hour drive. If you go to GC, you can hit Four Corners and then up to Rocky Mtn Park pretty easily. From Death Valley, you can hit Vegas, Valley of Fire, the Hoover Dam, and Bryce Canyon on the way to Rocky Mtn NP. The more scenic route will be the latter option, and with the snow, there's no real way to go from the Grand Canyon to southern Utah due to the road closures. That's a real shame because the North Rim is arguably better than the South Rim.

OK I think that's about it. Ask me anything else! I've done this trip a couple of times now and I've loved it each time.

EDIT: I uploaded an album of my trip for you to check out.

I use Venation Shoe Cream on my Iron Rangers and it works great.. conditions without darkening the leather. https://www.amazon.com/Venetian-Shoe-Cream-Ounces-Neutral/dp/B00QKXAGXW/ref=pd_sim_201_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00QKXAGXW&pd_rd_r=8b0b9679-d2eb-11e8-a627-33899ea631cb&pd_rd_w=0UHcf&pd_rd_wg=vbMNs&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=18bb0b78-4200-49b9-ac91-f141d61a1780&pf_rd_r=E2YREZD9WTV9GG6T7VEE&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=E2YREZD9WTV9GG6T7VEE

Same issue for me. I use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Eachway-Professional-Premium-Stretcher-Adjustable/dp/B01NAKQEBL

to help with break-in. My foot volume is on the large side and kinda big top-to-bottom at midfoot, so I guess I'm just used to having to do things like this with new shoes, "no break in" claims aside.

I got you covered: https://www.amazon.ca/Woodlore-Adjustable-Mens-Cedar-Medium/dp/B00020BFSE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492368026&sr=8-1&keywords=allen+edmonds+shoe+tree


these ones have an automatic adjustable width from C to D. They are made of cedar so it smells nice and absorbs moisture. They are very well polish so it won't scrape your shoes. I have 2 sets my self.

I have this cheap suede brush/eraser kit. Nothing fancy, but it does a decent job cleaning up suede shoes and jackets.

https://www.amazon.com/Sof-Sole-Suede-Nubuck-Cleaning/dp/B003IJ6GS0/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1R6TIKCYEUEKW&keywords=suede+brush&qid=1567443360&s=gateway&sprefix=suede%2Caps%2C174&sr=8-5

Venetian Shoe Cream in Neutral

If you'd rather not spend $9 to condition a $60 case though, clean it with mild soap and water, let it dry, the apply a thin coat of extra virgin olive or coconut oil. If it's still too dry after a day, do one more coat but no more than that.

True, I might experiment with different things to patch it up. Mainly need something that is hard, yet a bit flexible. My first thought was caulking lol, but that may be too soft.

EDIT: Maybe something like this could work

Winter hat, face mask, heavy duty winter gloves, heavy duty jacket, multiple layers of clothing, with a synthetic base layer (underarmor), Microspikes, hiking poles, sunglasses, sunscreen, boots, snowshoes (recommend but not required), water, & food.

Hiking in Colorado is no joke, hiking in the winter is even more serious.

http://www.amazon.com/Strong-Flat-Shoe-Laces-Brown/dp/B007BCUHEY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450655053&sr=8-1&keywords=brown+flat+waxed+laces

I ordered some but the shipping takes forever so I cancelled my order and got leather laces instead.

Laces from Red Wing, I believe, are 48", so you might want to try 60"

• Lexol Conditioner, nice and light
  
  
• Small dauber or shine cloth for applying wax or cream polish
  
  
• Standard buffing brush for buffing the polish/wax afterwards to get a good shine
  
  
• Shoe polish, either wax, or a cream polish. Do you want a mirror shine, do you want to add colour, etc
  
  Mink oil is great for waterproofing, but not ideal for conditioning.

The polish you'll want is Cordovan polish. That's if you want to keep the color true as possible.

That being said, I own a pair of ox-blood shoes and recently experimented using brown shoe polish. It lightened the color a bit and it turned out extremely well. They're now my primary shoes for almost everyday wear.

I'm not sure how long these are, but the AE brushes are pretty good for $10.

I use these Star brushes. They're made in Israel and are rebranded for Kiwi, Saphir, etc.

I have wide feet. I used A pair of shoe stretchers to give me a little more room https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAKQEBL?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf beat buying another pair of shoes and worked like a charm

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000P89EJK

This^

Hell yeah TZs are the shit, though I don't see any in maroon/purple other than these but I like the muted tone on the Leffot ones. You should demand and full refund, to be able to keep the boots, and a coupon code for your next purchase for being slighted so.

I just used some mink oil. It rains about every other day where I live and I've been wearing the boots daily and I've never had wet feet. The mink oil does make the boots a bit darker though so if you do end up using it be prepared for that!

Here's the link for the mink oil I used. Sorry I'm on mobile!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003EMABT6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1420900706&sr=8-2&dpPl=1&dpID=51yuFvZakwL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

Mr. Clean Magic Eraser to make those yellow soles white again and a Jason Markk Shoe Cleaning Kit for the rest. (Normal dish soap works too.)

Do NOT mess with bleach - it will make white soles turn yellow. If you haven't bleached it, and the magic eraser isn't doing it for you than escalate to Angelus. But honestly you should have magic erasers lying around anyways. Those things are amazing.

don't worry about it man youre good. those are a solid pair! so what I would advise you to do is load up your arsenal of supplies. I assume you have a horsehair brush. if you don't, here is a great brush that will last you a long time. Next, you will need saphir renovateur.

they appear to look a little dry. when you get them, i suggest you start brushing em for a good 10 minutes each (its long I know but it gets them looking great) as shell is quite oily and the brushing will bring out that shine. I would hit the shoes with a dab of saphir reno, apply evenly, wait for 5 minutes and brush away. I would re apply every 25 or so wearings. brush the hell out of em after each wearing. do this and your shells will last a lifetime

comment content: don't worry about it man youre good. those are a solid pair! so what I would advise you to do is load up your arsenal of supplies. I assume you have a horsehair brush. if you don't, here is a great brush that will last you a long time. Next, you will need saphir renovateur.

they appear to look a little dry. when you get them, i suggest you start brushing em for a good 10 minutes each (its long I know but it gets them looking great) as shell is quite oily and the brushing will bring out that shine. I would hit the shoes with a dab of saphir reno, apply evenly, wait for 5 minutes and brush away. I would re apply every 25 or so wearings. brush the hell out of em after each wearing. do this and your shells will last a lifetime

subreddit: NavyBlazer

submission title: Simple Questions - January 20, 2017

redditor: JDLII

comment permalink: https://www.reddit.com/r/NavyBlazer/comments/5p3vuc/simple_questions_january_20_2017/dcqbw5q

How about since it's winter (depending on which hemisphere you're in anyway), Kathoola Microspikes. They help you get traction on ice, snow, up hills, etc. Most people outside of winter hikers wouldn't buy them, but they're a good waste of 50-100 bucks because they're actually pretty useful.

Just buy a suede eraser and brush. They're super cheap and work with a little effort

I use Free Sole for shoe repairs.

https://www.amazon.com/Aquaseal-Shoe-Repair-Adhesive-1oz/dp/B007UTZXT2/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524778065&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=freesole&dpPl=1&dpID=51I4LuBFh5L&ref=plSrch

Use a shoe stretcher. I have wide feet and I even use stretchers on my street shoes.

Eachway Shoe Stretcher Shoe Trees,Adjustable Length & Width (Large) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAKQEBL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LTwjDb7KSVVAE

This book, used.

Or this, technically $.50 over your limit

67.

Thanks for the contest!

At that point, I usually retire them to a gym shoe and pick up some boot repair to fill in the cracks. I've kept my gym shoes going for almost a year now using a single tube of boot repair to fill in the splits that appear.

Dont give up on them yet! those things have pleeeenty of life left in em.

Venetian shoe cream.

What color laces are they? Are those considered "white" on amazon...or are those "beige?" The beige looks quite a bit darker than these, but I certainly wouldn't want bright white laces.

Link to laces

Someone suggested mink oil to me in another post.

Yea overshoes are great. I love just stomping through the elements with no worries. They were actually $4 at kohls ($6 shipping) but I got some crazy sale. They usually run $20 (but still worth it). Also they run kind of small. I got a medium and barely fits over size 9's.

These are the ones I got:
http://www.amazon.com/Totes-Mens-Rubber-Footwear-Overshoes/dp/B002NWZLSY

Hah or you could be this guy:
http://www.amazon.com/Cool2day-Disposable-Plastic-Covers-Overshoes/dp/B00EY2I2LO/ref=sr_1_35?s=shoes&ie=UTF8&qid=1398222951&sr=1-35&keywords=overshoe

Ok. Walk me thru this just to be certain.

Step 1: Use Some saddle soap such as this Fiebings Saddle Soap with a nice cloth and some water to scrub clean the shoes. Then let dry overnight.

Step 2: Heat Sperry's using a blow dryer to allow oil to absorb oil better. Use some mink oil such as this with another cloth and apply coat. Remove excess with dry cloth. Let dry overnight. Reapply next day. Remove excess.

Step 3: Profit.

I assume this would also work with a pair of clarks I own as well...?

Buy some of these on Amazon and then return them if you don't end up using them.

http://www.amazon.com/Kahtoola-MICROspikes-Footwear-Traction-2015/dp/B00RXXJ0V2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463098649&sr=8-1&keywords=Micro+spikes

Suede is already not very rain-friendly; those shoes are for indoors and nice weather. Also, you can use a rubber overshoe http://www.amazon.com/Totes-Geometric-Rubber-Overshoe-Loafer/dp/B002NWZLSY

angelus

Using this to restore some 2011 space jams. Works pretty good. One coat seemed to lighten the yellow a decent amount. Going to apply another coat to see if that helps even more.

Roughly these, though I bought them a year and a half ago before I knew about proper care.

I'm currently thinking this leather care kit, a horsehair brush, and mink oil

http://www.amazon.com/Sole-Matrix-Sneaker-Balls-Colors/dp/B003IJ7U3K

These helped for me

I know nothing about boots. My boyfriend had a pair of Timberland boots that, after 3 years of daily wear (walking around a garage for shifts at work) they were beginning to let water in, so we got him a new pair of the same exact kind. We never oiled them or anything (didn't know that was a thing until I read your comment) so maybe they would have lasted longer if we had..

These are the boots.

If I buy this will that work for them?

Just slip these on any shoe.

This stuff?
Huberd's Shoe Grease https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MLBCWM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KPz4Cb8MWN262

You could try stretching them if the next size up is too big. I regularly stretch my shoes since I’m in between sizes. Highly recommend this contraption!

I have heard really good things about Kiwi whitener I am not saying buy from here but this is one of the first links I found to it just by googling.
Many other people pain their boost but I heard that can take a bit of time. Good luck

Here is the desktop version of your link

I first wipe mine down with a damp cloth to get any dust/salt/grime off my boots and let dry and then hit with a brush once more. Then I use Mink oil, specifically this brand. I take out the laces and apply with an old t shirt and really get it on every nook and cranny. Then I take a hair dryer and blast the boot and wipe off any excess (note that you shouldn't have that much excess that you need to wipe it down, but sometimes you'll get some around the eyelets). Mink Oil really brings out a nice shine and luster in the boot and doesn't darken it as bad as Sno-seal or Obenauf's would. I've had mine for almost 2 years now and they're still looking really good for a pair that have been through a decent beating.

Edit: Just for a lil boot porn here is a pair of my IR Amber Harness after a treatment of mink oil. Pic

That's exactly how I'm tying mine. Maybe check out something like this if you want something longer?

I have a pair of these that I use in some of my athletic shoes. They aren't perfect, but I do find they work better than Febreeze/Lysol.

I usually toss my canvas shoes in the washing machine when they start to stink. Haven't had any problems yet, but probably not the best idea for a fancier pair.

bickmore suede cleaner
+
cleaning kit

Follow instructions.

I have this issue with a lot of shoes cuae my right foot is wider than my left, but I hate wearing shoes that are too long. I bought these Amazon and if a shoe has any preasure points, use put these in them over night. Sometimes it takes a few sessions to get them perfect, but even a few hours stretch makes a big difference for me.

Eachway Shoe Stretcher Shoe Trees,Adjustable Length & Width for Men and Women https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAKQEBL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vAjZDb6Q0B0ZM

Kiwi has Cordovan, Oxblood, and Mahogany. I'm not sure about the differences, but I think "oxblood" is usually a little brighter, and "mahogany" sounds like it should be more brownish.

http://www.amazon.com/Large-Professional-Boot-Shine-Brush/dp/B00CQAYK3A

https://www.hangerproject.com/large-horsehair-shoe-polishing-brush.html

Rubbers! Kind of an oldschool option, but if you want nice shoes and have to trudge through muck, they're a great option.

Don't listen to /u/oregonianrager, the only boot supplement to get is this. Don't fuck with Yaktrax or any other bullshit. Buy 'em on Amazon with 2-day shipping or some shit and you can go jogging pass all these lily livered tip toers out here.

You're Welcome.

Would something like this work for standard 1ks? Shape is somewhat similar. http://www.amazon.com/Totes-Mens-Protective-Overshoe-Rain/dp/B002NWZLSY

I got this to take care of my suede shoes, works wonders.

For boots, Obenauf's LP is great. It'll darken the leather a bit, but it works wonders even on relatively cheap leather. Saddle Soap is another good option to consider, Kiwi makes one that you should be able to buy on Amazon.

As for polishing, you'll need some sort of polishing kit. This one should have everything you'll need except for polish. The Bostonians look burgundy, so this is probably your best bet. If they're not burgundy, then get whichever color matches them the closest.

look around where you found it in the car to see if anything stained part of the car or what could have possibly leaked. i would try a suede cleaning kit that has an eraser and brush (no chemicals) and see if that could get it off. i think Jason Markk or Kiwi make an affordable kit for this. I think Target carries the Kiwi one in store too.

You mean like this one? https://www.amazon.com/Venetian-Shoe-Cream-Ounces-Neutral/dp/B00QKXAGXW/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?dchild=1&keywords=fire%2Bsupply%2Bco.%2Bvenetian%2Bshoe%2Bcream&qid=1574479337&sr=8-1-fkmr1&th=1

> bags without mesh made everything smell terrible

The solution I've found for this are odor balls. They sell them at shoe stores as they're usually made to be thrown in shoes but having a few of them kicking around inside your bag is great at combating the smell.

These are the things I'm talking about: http://www.amazon.com/Sole-Matrix-Sneaker-Balls-Colors/dp/B003IJ7U3K

Does know of a particular polish that would go with cordovan 1ks? I really don't want to destroy them with a wrong color polish or something. I've been thinking about this: http://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-Cordovan-Shoe-Polish-1-1/dp/B000MLBCU4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376195487&sr=8-1&keywords=cordovan+shoe+polish

I bought this stuff... https://www.amazon.com/Gear-Aid-Freesole-Urethane-Repair/dp/B007UTZXT2/

It worked amazingly. You can also use it to re-build the sole of the shoe if it has a worn section... Pretty handy.

I got this-sized can from Amazon in August for $40 (same seller). I don't know why it is now $160(!). Anyway, it should last me forever. Maybe just keep checking the 'Zon periodically.

Edit: price back down from space.

Like this stuff?

As the inner sole itself adapts to your foot you'll get a bit more volume (including laterally), and your toes should slightly make a divot in the lining as well. But if it keeps bothering you, you can always go to a cobbler and get it stretched in width some or do it yourself. Getting some room is really trivial.

A lot of people act like taking care of leather is like raising a child, when its more like raising a cat. Just treat it like really durable skin, which is exactly what it is, its not rocket science. Keep the insides dry and the leather supported with cedar shoe trees when you're not wearing them, clean the surface every once in a while with saddle soap or even just warm water, and apply a leather conditioner if the leather feels stiff or dry. I recommend Venetian Shoe Cream.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003IJ6GS0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_DTv8AbS194Q55

Seude cleaner, works great.

[The Original Huberd's Shoe Grease] (https://www.amazon.com/Huberds-Shoe-Grease/dp/B000MLBCWM) is all you need for work boots.

Ty sneakers in blue camo. 4.5 youth. $53.95

Using this shoe stretcher. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01NAKQEBL/ref=gp_aw_ybh_a_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Z6QXAT5PKGBNP4BS5KCH

Again. Your foot size seems to be a bit too big and you might waste money for nothing. I don't think they are going to stretch any bigger than 8.

I tried them out last night while outside. Didn't last more than 30 minutes with them. I wish they came in bigger sizes from plae.

Thanks, I'm in the US though, so the shipping cost may not be worth it. I'm probably going to go with Kiwi's Cordovan wax polish. Based on reviews the shade is very close to burgundy.

I'm unfamiliar with the neutral wax polish. How does it compare to a pigmented polish?

Oh nice! Definitely the way to go for mens fashion. I rarely see many guys shopping for dress clothes so often have the pick of great finds. Heres the stuff I used on this pair: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000MLBCWM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511888141&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=shoe+grease ........ And here is the other method I typically use when working with regular shoe polish. Ive found this to produxe the best results when dealing with used shoes: http://www.theshoesnobblog.com/polish-your-shoes-properly

Any horse hair brush should do. These from Hanger Project for $15 have been recommended a lot. I have these however and are ok for the price as I got them a little cheaper a while ago.

I've been asked if I put on suede spray for these three recent shoes that that I bought: derby buck, brown cap toe oxford, and a Crepe sole (cheaper) chelsea boot.

Since they're all well under $100, even more so as I have a 25% discount code, I told someone that I don't bother, but I would if they were $200 to $500 shoes.

However, I did order a suede cleaning kit by Kiwi, and it seems to work well for these shoes.

For the most part, it's important to keep these shoes dry and avoid in (known) wet weather. However, minor water stains are oftentimes unavoidable, and the suede cleaning kit seems to do a satisfactory job.

I'm wondering if suede protector just isn't worth it. On the other hand, I regularly put rubber cement on the soles to avoid the soles wearing down, so the base of the shoes (too cheap to re-sole) last far longer than normal.

I have a few of these that are my favorite. I'm sure someone else can chime in with something better though.

I've had good results using Angelus Sole Bright (amazon link) It's basically a deoxidizing agent and does a good job removing some of the yellowing that can appear overtime on boost soles. For scuffs and other marks, like others have said, I've used magicerasers with a good deal of success as well. Good luck!

The Shoe Goo will hold up for like 2 days and then separate (probably since thats where most of the bending happens-at the toe box). I'm thinking of trying this urethane shoe repair thing but I'm not sure if it would fuck with the boost material or if it would even hold. I've seen a couple posts about this but there isn't really a solution other than "stop wearing them" (which I will NOT do).

I'd go with saddle soap, inexpensive, leather specific, and leaves no residue. For conditioning you may want to be more careful as many of them leave a residue which could prove to be slick.

If it's a button down shirt that you usually iron, then iron it while it's still a little damp instead of putting it through the dryer.

If you want you dark clothes to stay darker longer use something like woolite dark as a detergent.

Wool gets dry-cleaned (or if you are a gamblin man put in the washer on delicates and laid flat to dry) and should never go through the dryer.

Undershirts, your millage may vary but the Uniqlo Airism shirts work great until it's sweltering hot out, then for some reason cheap white cotton works better.

If it's a nice shirt and has collar stays, remember to pull them out of the collar before laundering. Put them back in after ironing.

Get a shoe brush, and look for a video on how to polish your shoes. Everyone seems to have their own favorite products. I like this stuff for my shoes.

I've been lurking for a while but finally made an account to ask this:

I decided to go with Red Wing Beckmans (9023) as my first high-quality footwear purchase. I also purchased a Kiwi 100% Horsehair Shine Brush, a Lexol 907 Leather Care Kit, and Woodlore Adjustable Men's Shoe Tree (Cedar).

My first question is: how should the shoe trees fit into my Beckmans? I went to a Red Wing store and got sized. They said I have wide feet and recommended I get 8.5 (I usually wear 8.5s in regular footwear like Van's and Nike). I purchased the 8.5 Beckmans and I've worn them about 8 times now. Out of paranoia, I double checked with the Red Wing store to see if the boots were creasing properly (as I have a lot of toe space and was worried that it might be too big). They assured me that It was fine. I ordered size medium (8-9.5 size) and They arrived yesterday. I inserted them into the boots but noticed that it was pretty difficult to get them in there and the heel of the shoe tree scratches against the heel of the boot when inserting. I notice if I wiggle the front of the shoe trees in a bit more before inserting the heel, it doesn't scratch the heel of the boot. I apologize if the picture quality is poor , I only have my phone at this time. Is this okay for my Beckmans? Or should I return these for a different shoe trees? I'm worried about them being stretched improperly. If I should get different ones, can someone direct me to a specific shoe tree? Here are some pictures of my 9023s with the shoe trees.

My second question is, do I need any other care products than the ones I listed above? My care regime currently will be to brush after each use, shoe trees for a minimum of 1 day before next wear, Lexol clean and condition once a month and/or after they get really dirty.

This is what I got, I believe.

I just bought a pair of Woodlore adjustable cedar shoe trees in medium from the US (online) and they are too big for my shoes. They are suited for sizes 8D-9.5D, however I found with my 8D shoes they applied too much pressure. I would say they are better suited for sizes 9D-10D.

I have only put them in my shoes once, and they are for all practical purposes brand new. Comes in original box and will be packed up securely.

I am looking for $20CAD plus whatever shipping is within Canada only. Paypal

Shoe Trees I Bought

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A6GAT0Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&pldnSite=1

This. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003IJ6GS0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use the Peloton shoes and widen them with shoe stretchers I bought on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NAKQEBL/

I had a pair of Lake shoes which are supposed to be wide but they weren’t wide enough for my practically square feet.

Get a horsehair brush:

http://amzn.com/B00CQAYK3A

You can even get one for $6 that Kiwi makes - try Walmart.


Just brush the shoes real quick after wearing.


Oh, and get some shoe trees.

Not bad but why not just get something like these Shoe Traction Cleats

http://www.amazon.com/Sole-Matrix-Sneaker-Balls-Colors/dp/B003IJ7U3K/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1373479145&sr=1-1&keywords=deodorizer+balls

Just have to paint em black and your almost there

Use soap and water or and sneaker cleaner.

As far as if your boost is yellowing you will need to paint over it to do that you need to
Get angleus leather paint
Put thin coats drying with a hair dryer in between coats
Use a finisher

Another method I have see used on white boost is to use a sneaker paint pen
(https://www.amazon.com/KIWI-Sport-Shoe-Whitener-4-0/dp/B000UDEBMA)
Just an example ^
And you can just use that on the boost

Boom. http://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-Sport-Whitener-Fluid-Ounce/dp/B000UDEBMA/ref=pd_sim_sbs_ac_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=13Z9BW8CS5K4NT2BCK3F