Best small animal cages according to redditors

This information could vary depending on where you live, as for the United States. Make sure you’re familiar with your local laws on ferrets and your landlords policy before you commit to anything.You’ll most likely come across Marshall ferrets if you’re getting from a pet store. You want to look for the double dot tattoo on their ear that indicates they’ve been descented and spayed/neutered. You should always have at least two ferrets because they’re social animals and get depressed alone. They’re very social and need someone to keep them company whenever you can’t. You really can’t take the place of a second ferret playmate because you cannot play like a ferret and there will be times when they are without you and you can’t cuddle up in their hammock with them lol I find females are easier to train but boys can be very sweet too. They do bite and that needs to be trained out of them. It’s a good idea to research some training techniques before hand so you’re prepared and can be consistent from the start. They relieve themselves in corners so that can be used to your advantage when potty training them. Some people use litter boxes with pellets (never kitty litter), personally I use weewee pads and secure them in place with tape. If they’re not secure they will run away with them and tear them up lol. They do poop a lot and you have to keep up with cleaning it up. They’re super smart and energetic so they need enrichment. Tunnels, ball pits, and toys are a must. They also need lots of out of the cage time (minimum of 4 hours a day but the more the better) if you can dedicate a ferret proof section of your house that is ideal, my ferrets have their own bedroom so they are never confined to a cage. If they are roaming in a non ferret proof room they need to be closely monitored because they can be seriously injured if they chew on a wire, get stepped on, knock over something glass, or get into food that would be toxic for a ferret etc. As far as cages go I recommend a ferret nation cage, the double doors makes cleaning it easier and it’s an appropriate size for a ferret. Wysong digestive support is a good food for them. Grizzly’s salmon oil too. Be careful when picking a food because they cannot have vegetables, grains, or soy and many leading pet food brands do have them. They are strictly carnivores and should never eat dairy, sugar, fruits, vegetables, or grains/breads. They need their ears cleaned once a week and their hammocks and beds need to be washed. The majority of their musky smell comes from their ears so keeping up with that will keep the smell under control. They don’t need baths very often, frequent baths could dry out their skin. Their nails also need to be clipped and this is better off done as a two person job so one person can scruff ( held up by the skin on the back of their neck like a cat would hold a kitten in her mouth) and the other person can clip the nails. Make sure you don’t clip too fair back or you could make them bleed. You can usually see the vein in their nail and avoid it but it is something you need to be careful about and don’t want to do if they’re squirming. Another tactic is to try it right after they’ve fallen asleep so they’re docile enough to let you do it. or you can rub some salmon oil on their tummy so that they’ll be distracted licking it off. Don’t use ferretvite/ferretone/vitamin pastes marketed towards ferrets it contains harmful ingredients (sugar) for ferrets. Keep styptic powder on hand in case of an accident. Their teeth also need to be cleaned. Constant access to fresh water in a bowl (not a bottle) is a must. Don’t leave the lights on for them, the dark is good for their melatonin regulation which helps prevent adrenal disease. I would also recommend keeping an empty emergency kennel above their cage in case of a fire or any other event that would need you to evacuate quickly. It’s also important to have a vet on hand. If you get a Marshall’s ferret they’re usually all taken care of medically before you adopt them but you still need to keep up with routine vaccinations and they are sensitive creatures and are prone so certain problems like insulinoma and adrenal disease, they are also very accident prone and you don’t want to wait until something is wrong to look for a vet. Most conventional cat/dog vets won’t see ferrets because they are considered exotic. You should also familiarize yourself with blockage protocol. They live up to 8 years and take a lot of time, energy, love, patience, and commitment. They are a long term commitment so make sure you’re up for it and your schedule allows for it before you adopt. Good luck :)

MidWest Deluxe Ferret Nation Double Unit Ferret Cage (Model 182) Includes 2 leak-Proof Pans, 2 Shelves, 3 Ramps w/Ramp Covers & 4 locking Wheel Casters, Measures 36" L x 25" W x 62.5" H Inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054U8UGW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ENuCDb2RWR1V5

Wysong Ferret Epigen 90 Digestive Support - Dry Ferret Food, Four - 5 Pound Bags https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019W9VYPY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cOuCDb9EA300W

Grizzly Omega Health for Dogs & Cats, Wild Salmon Oil/Pollock Oil Omega-3 Blend https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074N97RFP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wOuCDbJGSXZ2Y

https://holisticferretforum.com/care-and-enrichment/common-behavior-problems/ferret-bite-training/

https://holisticferretforum.com/care-and-enrichment/common-behavior-problems/litterbox-boot-camp/

https://holisticferretforum.com/health/blockages/blockage-protocol/

https://holisticferretforum.com/care-and-enrichment/cages-and-bedding/464-2/ferret-litters/

https://docs.google.com/document/d/e/2PACX-1vTvMXyhwVBu5TLnYSvGhqJqr_vE_-x_1BADF7dPwatwlB9l--m02ZN23FqvPNqp3v-n5cJyOuSssVfn/pub?fbclid=IwAR1-YBxbLHkIRRgR9JgFZUD6zaxtOYq0W0dxfcpdEXUB51q8aHu2A3PZ_H0

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ps63TeKhcYB9L7YUxxBkGTjXQHSkGjVu/view?fbclid=IwAR2v0jT04d3cTa0Ixv3JUATp7wTTbv0WIwDaumJICWULdWhrMiF_7zmL_KM

This is basically the run down I send to all first time ferret parents on here but to also answer your specific questions 11 hours is okay as long as they have at least 4 hours out of the cage (the more the better though). Raw diet is good but anticipate varying stools. If you want easy and consistency I would go with kibble. I have a ferret proof room where there are no accessible wires but if you can’t provide that duct tape and zip ties are a good idea.
Here is a list with cost estimates https://www.reddit.com/r/ferrets/comments/ao29zy/the_cost_of_owning_ferrets_2019_edition/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf

That's pretty fuckin' metal lol.

Many years ago people used to think hamsters were just really mean animals because they always fought each other and would literally eat each other and their babies. What people know now is that (especially Syrian) hamsters are extremely territorial when they get of age.

Similarly, hamsters were found in nature to cover huge distances when foraging, miles per night... so these tiny cages you see at Petsmart that are like one square foot, of course they will get bitey. Imagine if you were stuck in a car all day with the doors locked and someone just fed you through the window all day. Anyone would get a little snippy in that situation. This is why I have always built my own cages, but for anyone reading who doesn't have any DIY skills, either get a very large aquarium or get the Prevue 528 ( https://www.amazon.com/Prevue-Pet-Products-528-Universal/dp/B074FH47MQ )

But a bodybuilder can't survive a fall from a plane, or a bullet, or a high speed car accident, any better than a wimpy nerd like myself. He could woop my ass in a fight but we both meet the reaper in situations bigger than ourselves. The hamster may be metal to each other but they will inevitably be injured from a fall or an infection.

Some tips for ferret owning if youre interested. Ferrets are obligate carnivores, do not buy any brand of food that says theyre for ferrets. Most of it is garbage that can kill your ferret. Get a high quality cat kibble here is a link to a chart that has a good list of options. Raw feeding is another good option, here is a forum that teaches about that. They should never have anything but meat or high quality oils, such as salmon oil for treats.

Ferrets need a ton of space to live well these are the best two cages. ferret nation and feisty ferret. The last one you will need to get something to put over the bars to protect their feet though.

Ferrets should not be bathed more than once a month, and only if they are visibly dirty. If you bathe them more than that their body produces more of the musk and they will smell like ass.

Ferrets should always be kept in pairs, especially if they have always been kept with another. They say the best toy for a ferret is another ferret for a reason. Ferrets also require a lot of out of cage play time, so a ferret proofed house or a play pen is required. They will attempt to eat anything and they will get intestinal blockages easily. This will kill them very quickly. There is a "protocol" for trying to get blockages out which includes feeding them raw canned pumpkin. However, the majority of the time they need surgery.

Please feel free to ask me anything about keeping ferrets!

My rats have learned if they jump at their cage door hard enough it will open (we have this cage too so not a cheap one, but one of the doors refuses to lock completely). One of them never leaves the cage when this happens. The other two will go underneath it to knock over the bag of crackers we feed them as treats occasionally and take turns running out from under the cage to steal one to eat. After a bit of that one goes and buries himself in the pillows on the couch and the other goes and finds a nice shoe to sleep in.

It never fails. They do the same things every time.

We do have another that is in his own cage as we couldn't put him with the others. He would get into nasty fights with them and hurt one of the others so badly we had to take it to the vet. He seems perfectly happy in that one alone. We can't play with him like the others. He's very aggressive and will bite quickly if we get close enough to him. He was a "rescue" of sorts in that he was the last one at PetsMart and had been there a while. No one wanted him. He was sweet at the store but we've been unable to get through to him at home. Not sure what to do with him.

Hamster Cages:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074FH47MQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_W9hmDb1C7KY00

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003QRPAR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_faimDbC7GF5T7

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003QRMBG0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QdimDb93TEFMN

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DXWPG6C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OgimDbSAX6MG2

These are all cages that are an appropriate size. You can also look up DIY bin cages or get a 30 gallon tank.

You really want to have 4-6 inches of bedding for burrowing purposes.

I've had a total of three.

They're cord chewers. Best advice I could give there is just to keep the cords out of the way or run them through plastic flexible tubing. http://www.cableorganizer.com/wire-loom-tubing/

You don't have to have them out of their cage too much if your cage is big enough. You can just play with them on a couch or bed every day. You can let them free roam around but yeah you'd have to 'rat proof' things you don't want chewed.

My recommended cage is the CritterNation. Lots of room for a pair of rats and a really high quality cage. On that note you'd want to have at least two because they can get lonely by themselves. It's easier adopting two brothers or sisters who are already bonded otherwise you'll have to very slowly introduce them to prevent fighting.

They will sometimes leave trails of urine when about. It's very small dribbles though usually, like a few drops. I think it may be possible to train them not to but I didn't put much effort there since it occurred pretty rarely for me. For the most part they self-litter-trained for me and when they actually went it was in a particular part of their cage.

For tricks I had one who was an awesome shoulder percher. You could just sit your hand down and tap and he'd come running up your arm and shoulder and just sit there. When perched he'd usually just kind of sit there and balance, maybe play with hair. I could drive with him perched and he'd get excited when going near a car.

He'd also stand up on command.

First off, do NOT buy them a wheel, cavies are not designed to run on wheels and can injure or even break their backs using wheels, balls, or harnesses. Second, you will want two if not three of everything (food dishes, water bottles, hides, etc) just to be on the safe side.

The cage is still a bit too small. A cage such as this (there is a lid they sell for it as well which I recommend) would be the minimum size for two; http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Interactive-Guinea-Habitat-Plus/dp/B001NJ0DQ8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1373416057&sr=8-2

lid;http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Guinea-Habitat-Top-Panel/dp/B001NJ0DS6/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1373416110&sr=1-3&keywords=Midwest+guinea+pig+habitat

You could also make a cubes and coroplast style cage, you don't have to be extremely good at building to make one either for probably even cheaper. Here is some information on making your own cage and where to find materials (sign shops should have the coroplast, and the safe 9 x 9 1.5" spaced grids should be available at most Bed Bath and Beyond stores and Walmart's website); http://www.guineapigcages.com/

You want a hide that has two exits so fights do not occur. You can even use a soda or similar box with both ends cut out (as long as they do not flatten it out and potty on it). Me, I just use a couple of bent cage grids zip-tied to the back of the cage securely and then drape fleece over those to make tunnels.

For pellets, the absolute best one I've found is Kleenmama's Hayloft pellets if you are in the United States or Canada (you cannot have the hay shipped to Canada, only the pellets). Her hay is amazing too. http://www.kmshayloft.com/hay/ If you cannot get this for some reason, Oxbow is your next best bet. Cavies under 6 months to 1 year old will need alfalfa pellets, while adults over 6 months to one year need timothy based pellets.

Do not get anything you have to put into water, as it can put them off of drinking it. Oxbow makes a vitamin C tablet that is pretty popular with guinea pigs. http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=20255

You will want to have some sort of grass hay on hand at all times. Timothy, orchard grass, and blue grass are all common types to give guinea pigs. Second or third cutting is the softest and safest (not sharp at the ends). I buy it in large bales locally to save whenever they have good quality hay in. KM's hayloft sells hay as well on their website and is usually cheaper per pound than even Kaytee hay (which tends to be terrible quality) even after shipping. Oxbow also sells bagged hay, but sometimes I have found it to be harder hay. Another brand I have had some luck with bagged hay from is LM Farms hay (the pellets are not so good though).

You really need a larger cage to start, because as babies become adolescents and then go into puberty they will be more about dominance. Babies are also pretty hyper and need the space to run around. Adults like to be active on their own time as well but babies as I said are downright hyper and like to zoom around a good sized cage, so a minimum of 27" wide by 41" long is needed for a pair.

Do you have a rough budget? also im sorry for the novel
The typical and most suggested cage is a critter nation (a single can work for 2 or 3). You can sometimes find them or similar cages on craigslist, or find them cheaper on other sites.
You can also use several Martin brands, here's a breakdown of all of the versions you can get.. I've heard that they can be a bit annoying to clean, since most of them only have one door that opens, as compared to the critter nation with its double doors, but they're a reliable cage.
You could probably even use a Petco or Petsmart brand one, such as the Rat Manor, but that only holds 2 rats. So if you wanted to expand your mischief, you'd need an upgrade.
The most important thing at the moment is that they cant escape.
This is a good cage in general but the bar spacing is good for younger rats, and its a bit bigger than a single critter nation.
Here's a general listing of good cages for rats as well. but make sure to do your own research on them, as they suggest the aquarium topper which isnt a good one. The bar spacing needs to be at least 1/2" for babies.

• The most suggested food is oxbow if youre in the USA. you're also going to have to feed them a small portion of fresh fruits and veggie every other day or so (but you can also give cheerios and stuff as treats, they can eat almost anything tbh).
  
  
• they're going to need hides, hammocks, toys etc. you can usually make them yourself with fleece, some sewing, or cardboard boxes. Many bird toys and small animal advertised toys and stuff are fine.
  
  
• decide what kind of bedding youre going to use. If youre going to use loose bedding like this, consider getting a cage with a deep pan. If you're going to use fleece, consider if you're going to litter train them or not, or sew absorbent liners. Most people recommend fleece.
  
  
• rats need to chew because their teeth grow forever. so theyre going to need wood toys or lava ledges.
  
  Here are some good cages.. Just to give you an idea.
  They will need to see the vet at least a few times in its life. So be prepared to find an exotics vet and start saving. Imo, you dont need to take them like you would a dog, once a year or whatever, but if they start breathing funny or get hurt it's difficult to treat that kind of stuff by yourself.
  uuuuuuuuuuuu its usually cheaper to buy food and stuff in store so find a pet supplies plus, or a petco/smart. You're also going to need to clean the cage about once a week or so. You can use a small animal cage cleaner such as Nature's Miracle, or use a dilute mix of vinegar and water.
  And yes, you're going to need a friend if you decide to keep them.
  I think that's a good basic rundown of what you're gonna need eventually. If you dont deck them out like immediately they'll live, so theres no huge rush.
  Oh, and keep an eye on their health. make sure their breathing is fine and that they dont have lice or fleas (they'll have a lot of scabs on their ears and shoulders and tail). Rats are very prone to respiratory infections.

Ok - one popular option is the Detolf DIY (turning the Detolf cabinet from IKEA into a large tank). This gives them a ton of floor space, but you'll need to construct a cover for it because a Syrian could climb out of it quite easily. Just go to Home Depot, cut some trim wood to size, and stretch some chicken wire across it. I'd recommend making two smaller frames so that they're easier to open -- lots of YouTube tutorials on this.

If you don't want to go the DIY/tank route, this cage (from Amazon) seems to get the best reviews for Syrians and is bigger than anything you could get in a pet store. I think if I were to buy a Syrian, this would be one of my top choices:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003QRPAR2/

HOWEVER, that wheel doesn't look large enough for a Syrian. If you really want to spoil your ham, get it a nice wheel. The wheel needs to be 10" - 13" in diameter. Popular options are:

• https://www.exoticnutrition.com/Products/Silent-Runner-Wheel-12-(Wide)__43674.aspx (my personal favorite)
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Wodent-Wheel-Senior-Tail-Shield/dp/B01MRWR7MQ (I have this one as well and it's good)
  
  
• https://www.etsy.com/shop/CarolinaStorm (I've never tried these but I've seen them recommended as well)
  
  If the Savic Hamster Heaven is outside your price range, I've seen this one recommended as well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074FH47MQ
  
  You can also look at rabbit/guinea pig cages and just plan on making modifications. Usually the problem with these cages is the bar spacing is too large, so you would need to take some hardware cloth or chicken wire to make the cage more secure. You also want to find one with a solid floor (or create a DIY solid floor).
  
  This is one I ALMOST bought the other week (I went with the Detolf instead because I adopted a tiny robo). But I think it looks really nice and it has good reviews from Syrian owners:
  
  https://www.walmart.com/ip/New-Age-Pet-ecoFLEX-Park-Avenue-Indoor-Rabbit-Hutch/28263044
  
  https://www.wayfair.com/pet/hd0/gregg-small-animal-habitat-modular-hutch-l1314-k~tkmp1856.html
  
  (Seems to go by different names, but mainly "New Age Pet ecoFLEX Park Avenue Indoor Rabbit Hutch." Shop around a bit on that one - when I was thinking about buying it, it was $160 on Wal-Mart's site.)
  
  
  

Wow that's a lot of chew marks on the bars. OP please get your baby a bigger cage ♡ This is my personal fave but bin cages are also super cheap.

Prevue 528 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074FH47MQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sIRzDb3ECMD7X

It is a prevue 528. It is an amazing cage with over 600 square inches of floor space. Would definitely recommend.

Prevue Pet Products 528 Universal Small Animal Home, Dark Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074FH47MQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vWLKDb3CKXGGY

Proper diet is crucial. Raw is the best but many ferrets are on kibble. With the exception of Wysong, ferret kibbles are no good. Many cat kibbles with the exception of a few are unacceptable as well. Stay away from Ferret brands like Marshalls, Mazuri, Dr Foster Smith, 8 in 1, Kaytee, Wild Harvest, Totally ferret, Zupreem, Dumor, along with anything that has rice, corn, wheat, barley, molasses. (I would name cat brands too, but again most of them are unacceptable to give. The major ones being Purina, Iams, and Meow Mix, Hills, Whiskas, these aren't even good for cats.) Ferrets are obligate carnivores which means they literally cannot digest or process anything other than raw meat organs and bones. Anything else that is or contains fruit vegetables salt sugar nuts dairy or carb of any kind especially rice, corn, or wheat is detrimental to their health. The absolute worse is anything with corn, rice, wheat, barley, molasses, potatoes or peas especially within the first few ingredients. Ferrets little bodies have to work so hard just process it. Raw is the best thing you can give, but lets stick to kibbles. When switching Kibbles ferrets need to be transitioned gradually to do so do a 1 to 4 ratio of new food too old and increase as you see fit. My boys were off Marshalls and on Wysong within 10 days. Please feel free to message me with any questions!

This new chart now contains totally ferret, I strongly recommend not using it due to rice being the third ingredient. It should only be used if absolutely necessary only if they have IBD or other food allergies.

https://docs.google.com/document/d/e/2PACX-1vTvMXyhwVBu5TLnYSvGhqJqr_vE_-x_1BADF7dPwatwlB9l--m02ZN23FqvPNqp3v-n5cJyOuSssVfn/pub

Ferrets are very expensive family members, if you haven't already, start saving up now in case there's ever an emergency which there likely will be sometime in their life. It's important that you have a ferret knowledgeable vet, having an exotic vet is the bare minimum, often it's hard to find a good vet. Networking online is the best thing to do when trying to find a specialist near you.

Ferrets are very social creatures who develop close relationships with their humans. It is important they have companionship when your not around. They can even die from depression caused from loneliness. Ferrets THRIVE with a friend (or 2, or more!). When your not around you don't have to worry about your baby being home alone and lonely. There are also so many things a human can't do that another ferret can. You can never wrestle with them, chase them through tubes, or cuddle with them in a hammock. They live longer, happier, healthier lives with a buddy.

It's ideal if you can let ferrets free roam. Even if it's just a room (with time out of that room as well) If you must cage for part of the day the best cage is a Ferret Nation or Critter Nation. Anything smaller is just not enough room. They really need at least 2 solid floors to be able to stretch out on and relax on without fear of falling. Cages with just a bottom floor and floor panels not only do not have enough room, but are dangerous as a ferret could fall from the top to the bottom and break bones. Here, is the best cage you can get. It is well made, safe, easy to clean, and is the only cage on the market that's adequate amount of space.
https://www.amazon.com/MidWest-182-leak-Proof-Shelves-Measures/dp/B0054U8UGW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1538709394&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ferret+nation+cage&psc=1

there’s also different clear gates you can use to section off places or can even be put around a cage...

https://www.clearlylovedpets.com/dog-pens/

As for treats, raw meats, free dried treats, raw egg or just the yolks, or supplements such as salmon oil or Pickled Ferret Juice. Stay away from store bought supplements like ferretone, ferretive, ferretlax, ferrevite, they are all junk, salt, sugar, and bht a cancer causing preservative. There are some good freeze dried raw, I grind it up and make it into soupies...

https://www.chewy.com/stella-chewys-chick-chick-chicken/dp/129980?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=f&utm_content=Stella%20%26%20Chewy%27s&utm_term=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwtb_bBRCFARIsAO5fVvHe0TNfR1DlRu3orbYpqRy1kmq_kdrGzy0-2GbOusCdOEdXzMf4JYgaAlr9EALw_wcB

Pickled Ferret Juice.

http://etsy.me/2AiWUyz

Salmon oil

https://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-Salmon-Oil-Supplement-Healthy/dp/B00WRAZ4CK/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1509819415&sr=8-13&keywords=grizzly+salmon+oil

No water bottles. Water bottles are intended for rodents. When ferrets are forced to chew on a metal rod they struggle just to get a drop and does permanent damage to their teeth. Like cats and dogs ferrets are naturally supposed to lap their water, and receive 60% more water intake when they are able to. Instead get a HEAVY bowl or one that can latch on to their cage.

Also no shredded bedding like you see them in at the petstore. Ferrets are prone to respiratory illness, the dust from those types of beddings can irritate their lungs and cause infection, also it can be ingested and cause a blockage. Ferrets are very clean animals and prefer blankets to cuddle in. Get lots of blankets (even an old t- shirts or sweaters will do)

Don't bathe more than twice a year. Bathing strips ferrets of their natural oils, therefore they have to overcompensate by making more and smelling worse. I prefer baby shampoo. Ferrets who enjoy water or have itchy skin can benefit from oatmeal baths, as long as soap isn't use it can be done more frequently.

Ferrets also need their nails trimmed (typically once a month) and should have their teeth brushed weekly.
https://www.amazon.com/Nuby-2-Pack-Oral-Massager-Toothbrush/dp/B008FONSQG/ref=sr_1_14_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1508618085&sr=8-14&keywords=baby+finger+toothbrush

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NJ0PEE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541386629&sr=8-2&keywords=MaxiGuard+OraZn+Pet+Oral+Care%2C+2+oz.

Yeah, that cage doesn't seem to have very good reviews. ...and wouldn't you have to tip it on its side to fit your space? That would be a whole can of worms in itself.

The only cages I've seen that are long like that are guinea pig and rabbit cages but they're generally not very tall. Guinea pig, rabbit, and ferret cages also usually have a wider bar spacing (7/8 - 1") that young rats and smaller adult females can slip right between. The wider bar spacing is usually fine for adult males, though. A cage with a too-wide bar spacing can be covered with 1/2" hardware cloth using zip ties to keep smaller rats in. This isn't terribly attractive and makes the cage more difficult to clean but it will at least do the job. Here are are a few cages that aren't very tall but they're all about 46" wide; 1, 2, 3. One potential problem with these cages is the style of plastic base. Some rats are crazy chewers and can actually gnaw through exposed plastic bases.

Another option is to combine two cages together somehow to make one long cage. This is really common with Critter Nation cages but I've also seen a couple people do it with the Rat Manor. Two Rat Manor cages side by side would have approximate dimensions of 45W x 16.5D x 32H.

Another option would be to have one custom made. Martin's Cages is a small, family-owned business and they make excellent cages. I've read of people working with them to design their own cages.

I'm really not a fan of diy cages generally. They're usually made from really inappropriate materials (wood) and they're usually just not built to last. That being said, I found this thread where a person made their own cage based on Martin's cages design. It's a lot of work and a really expensive route but it's a good way to get exactly what you want. I was sick of my Critter Nation and I wanted a cage for the top of my dresser so I ended up taking that forum thread as inspiration to make my own cage and I'm absolutely in love with it.

-edit- I forgot to post a link to the picture of the double-wide Rat Manor

Most of the Ferplast cages are a good option [just look on Amazon.uk]. This cage is about as small as you want to go. Bigger is always better. The Ferplast Furet Tower is very awesome, though it is a bit large for just 2 females. Also look on Ebay, sometimes they've got good deals on brand cages. Look for cages around 30" x 24", but remember they need vertical space just as much as they need horizontal space. Levels are good but you don't want a grid in the base. It doesn't help anything and gets really gross. Make sure the wire is powder coated. Most cages are, but plain silver wire is not, and galvanized metal just absorbs urine and there is no getting that smell out. You need the bar spacing to be around 1/2", females can get out of 1" bar spacing. They will grow out of that hamster cage within two weeks, tops, so go ahead and order your new cage now.

The main differences are what you've already stated. Rats are also much cleaner, in my opinion. They're a lot sweeter than hamsters, and they'll learn fast. They also need a better, more balanced diet with a premium rat food and fresh veg/fruit. Seed mixes are not good. This is a good list of what you can and can't feed a rat.

They just need to time to adjust. Keep giving them healthy treats so they associate you with the good stuff. Talk to them often, softly like you would talk to a kid or scared puppy. How long it takes varies from rat to rat and situation to situation. Most of my rats start to come out of their shells within a couple of weeks, but I deal with rescues who have been neglected or abused. It can take a pet store rats months to become trusting, while others only take a few days. Read their cues and follow their lead. Don't force them into anything if you don't have to. If you have an old tote/bag that you can pop them in, it makes moving them around much easier and they won't get as frightened at being handled.

Aw that's wonderful! Congrats on getting sucked into the wonderful world of being a ratty owner - you're gonna love it!

So first things first: you ALWAYS adopt at least two rats. More is always preferable, and I personally think three is the best minimum because the difference between looking after 2 vs 3 ratties is honestly minimal, but that 1 extra furbaby makes all the difference to them. Rats are very very social and need friends to thrive and live happy lives. Even if you had all the time in the world and had 1 rat, you wouldn't be able to make up for all the things he needs to have with another rat(s).


Ratties are relatively simple to look after, although they do need a good bit of socializing, attention and stimulation. This helps them thrive and live happy lives. They're very intelligent and can learn a lot of things if you wish to do so - this stimulates them mentally and keeps their brains active, which again, makes them thrive!


I'll get the long stuff out of the way first and then give you a list of foods, bedding and cages after.


Generally, rats tend to adjust to new environments pretty well and they build bonds quickly too. It took my 3 boys about 2-3 weeks to become complete cuddlebugs and trust me. Of course, rats that come from a shop where they havent been socialized properly since a young age will be more shy and scared than rats from a breeder/accidental litters etc. There are different trust and bonding exercises you can do when you first get your ratties to help them adjust to their new home. There are generally 2 approaches that people take - slow and patient, or a bit more forceful. Both sides have their supporters and opposition. I find that a combination worked best for me. You just need to try and see which works best, all ratties are different. These are some of the things to do with new ratties:


When bringing the ratties home and setting them up in their cage, observe their behaviour. They will probably be a little shy but also curious, and the curious side generally tends to be stronger than the shy side! They will probably hide at first or stay in one place, but sit beside their cage and try not to make any sudden or fast movements. Just be there with them, let them smell you and get used to you, so they realize that you're a safe presence and youre not scary.


If your ratties are starting to walk around and explore their cage a little more, you can gently and slowly place your hand flat inside the bottom of the cage. Dont move, let the ratties come to you. They most likely wont be able to fight their curious side and will come over to sniff and maybe even have a little nibble on your nails, fingers etc. Dont move, let them do their thing.


Observe their behaviour and you'll be able to make a judgement on how they react to this approach. Put some porridge, apple sauce or pudding in your hand and let them lick it/eat it out of your hand. You want to pick something they wont be able to grab and run away with, which is why pudding/sauce type of food is a better choice. This forces them to eat near you and even lick you which teaches them that they can trust you, that they can get nice tasty treats and food off you and you wont hurt them.


They'll start becoming more comfortable and eventually they'll be climbing on you out of their cage when you place your hand inside, sleeping in your hoodie and riding on your shoulder. Let them do it at their own pace.


You should also spend time with them free roaming outside of the cage, to do some trust training and bonding. Many people choose to sit in their bathtub and let the ratties run around, explore and climb all over them. If you have a rat safe, smallish room, you can also sit down and let them explore and come to you etc. They'll have fun, they'll explore, play and they will start to include you. They'll gain confidence. Ratties tend to also playfight/wrestle with each other - this is normal and not a sign of aggression. The playfighting can look a bit scary if youre unfamiliar with ratty behaviour, but generally if theres no blood drawn and the rats still cuddle, eat and are relaxed around each other when theyre not wrestling, then everything is fine. They usually calm down with the wrestling after a couple of months.


Everything I described above is on the more slow and patient side. This worked beautifully with 2 of my ratties. One of them was a lot more shy however so I did try one forceful method with him and it worked amazingly.



If you do encounter a problem where a rat (or all of them) aren't really responding to these trust and bonding methods, then you can try the slightly more forceful approach. The idea in this approach is that since the rat is too timid/scared, you have to show them that they're safe with you. I had to do this with one of my rats and after 1 day, he changed completely. He became 100% comfortable and happy, he ran over to me when I came to the cage etc. Before that, he was in the hammock all day and didnt leave the cage, he didnt come to me at all.


I wore 2 shirts - one thin shirt underneath and a cozy big hoodie on top of that. All I did was take him out of the cage despite protests (squeaking and struggling was involved unfortunately) and I put him inside my hoodie. He was nice and warm there and at first he was a bit scared but he soon fell asleep. I walked around all day with him in my hoodie (obviously giving him water and food haha). Eventually he left the inside of my hoodie and started walking around on my shoulders, sniffing my face, nibbling on my hair, climbing up and down my arms etc.


That one day showed him that there's nothing to be scared of and he is completely safe with me. He will get food, water and shelter from me, he wont get hurt and he's completely safe. After that 1 day, he's been the most amazing sweet cuddlebug, very confident and very playful too!



So that pretty much covers the basic behavioural patterns and approaches - of course there's definitely something I missed and Im sure someone else here will bring up something I havent said, but that does pretty much cover the most fundamental basics.


As for food - ratties need a low fat, low protein diet. The best staple food to give them is lab blocks. A great brand that people swear by is Oxbow. The reason why this type of food is great, is because it's formulated perfectly to accommodate the ratties' diet essentials and the rats also cant be picky about which bits of food they do and dont like - this means they're getting ALL of their necessary nutrients. I wouldnt recommend getting any rat food mixes where all the nutrients they need are in separate foods all thrown together into a bag, because they're just gonna eat the bits they like and leave the ones they dont care for. Some people make their own mixes though and that works really well for them - it all depends on how picky your rats are. Personally, its hard for me to find Oxbow where I live and its very expensive to buy online, so I use this food. It's like a european version of oxbow, my rats love it and thrive on it. If your rats are young though, you want to give them a little more protein couple of times a week than is included in Oxbow or the food I use. Some boiled chicken two or three times a week until they're around 6 months or so (if Im wrong, please correct me on this, but Im pretty sure its 6 months).


You want to give them fresh vegetables to supplement their lab block diet. All the leafy greens are great for them, but other veggies are good too - just dont overdo it because the fibre will cause them to have runny poops. Rat poop should be like dry little pellets, with barely any odour unless you get all up close and personal. They might have diarrhea the first day or two when theyre in their new home just from stress, just keep an eye out on them. My ratties love cucumbers, kale, parsley, broccoli, tomatoes and spinach. Carrots are also a good choice. Try different things and see what they like. Here is a good list of foods your rats are NOT allowed to eat.


Fresh water should of course be available at all times. They should drink water only, nothing else unless you need some cranberry juice or something like that to mix with their medication if theyre sick.


As for cages - ratties need to climb, explore, run around and play. This is a rat cage calculator - select your units and put in the dimensions of the cage you're considering buying, it'll calculate how many rats can fit in the cage youre choosing. Of course this is a rough guideline, so use your best judgement - the cage may be big enough but if there's no shelves for them to climb onto or to place their food bowels etc. then its not suitable.


The ultimate cage everyone here recommends is Midwest Critter Nation. It's an expensive cage but it's perfect. Of course if youre only getting 2 or 3 rats, you dont need a huge cage like this. You can opt to get them the single Critter Nation rather than the double if you wish. That would be a great option for a smaller mischief of rats. The important things to look out for in a cage, is that the bar space isnt too big. This is especially important if youre looking to adopt girls since theyre smaller. The cage should also be powder coated, not galvanized and the bars ideally horizontal (this means the ratties can climb and its easier for you to hang their hammocks and other cage accessories).

I'd say so. I have 8 boys in a critter nation. They're (somewhat) litter trained but i do a spot clean every day. that takes only about 10 minutes. And i do a big clean on the weekends which is just the spot clean plus throwing the fleece liners in the washing machine. I give them a few scoops of Oxbow Rat food with a few scoops of brown rice in the morning, and some mixed veggies at night. And of course treats. But i try not to over feed them with the treats.

But, there are all kinds of cage options. Obviously you wouldnt need the cage mentioned above having like 2 or 3 rats. (but you must have more than 1 rat otherwise they get depressed and lonely).

It looks like that one popular cage off of amazon and it can be sectioned into parts with doors between the sections (you can see that the bedding extends past the left side of the cage at the bottom left corner of the picture).

http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Interactive-Guinea-Habitat-Plus/dp/B001NJ0DQ8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394191807&sr=8-1&keywords=guinea+pig+cage

I assume you are in the US. If you can't upgrade for now can I suggest you get a wire topper that converts the aquarium and gives it some extra space?


Like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0027J381U/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?qid=1463269546&sr=8-16&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rat+cage


But still this is too small, I would really suggest you get a large wire cage instead

I know a lot of these have been mentioned, but:

• You shouldn't keep rats alone. They're likely to become very depressed, even if you spend lots of time with them.
  
• The bars are too wide on that cage. Rats can squeeze through tiny openings. Bar spacing should be no more than about half an inch.
  
• The cage is way too small. Check out the rat calculator to see what size cage you should be looking for. In particular, look for something with plenty of height, as rats really like to climb.
  
• I can't be sure but that looks like galvanized metal, which tends to absorb moisture and smells. You should pick a cage with coated metal – I don’t know where you are but I have the Furet Plus for my two rats, which is a very good option. I’m sure everybody here could recommend you a good cage on a budget.
  
• I would remove that wheel straight away, and replace it with something like this, which has a solid surface for the rats to run on.
  
  Looking at your post history, it seems like this new friend is a bit of an impulse decision for you. I am all for people owning rats, but I don’t think you’re going about this the right way. Picking up a sickly bargain bin pet store rat as your first one is a terrible idea, and here’s why:
  
  
• Even if the store tells you the rat has recovered, rats tend to live with upper respiratory complications throughout their lives, and it can be very expensive to have rats treated.
  
• Rats should be kept in groups of at least two, which means you’ll also need to be responsible for introducing your rat to a new friend. This process can take weeks or even months, and requires you to stock and manage an extra cage until they’re used to each other enough to live together.
  
• Rats from pet stores aren’t bred for health or personality, they’re bred for quantity. There are more health and behavioural issues to contend with and this will make life difficult for you as a first-time rat owner.
  
• I and most of this sub would encourage you to use a reputable breeder rather than a pet store to adopt your animals, as pet stores have a terrible reputation for animal cruelty, and the animals tend to be very poorly socialised.
  
  Please really think this through. I know it’s difficult when you’ve already set your heart on a certain rat, but based on this post and your last one in this sub you don’t appear to have done a lot of research on the basics of rat care, and you need to seriously consider whether you are capable of handling a potentially very complicated pet.
  

When we decided to upgrade cages for our guys, we went with the Midwest Critter Nation double unit. It's made by the same folks who make the Ferret Nation and is almost identical, except that the bars have less space between them and run horizontally rather than vertically, making them better for smaller animals and easier to add accessories to.

It's been absolutely tremendous for them. One of our boys, Harvey, is also missing one of his front paws, and he runs about without any trouble. The Critter Nation has two main levels and two "half" levels, all of them solid and of a hard plastic that the boys haven't tried to chew on (I know, amazing - but there doesn't seem to be any reason to swap them out for metal, surprisingly). The ramps that reach from level to level come with fleece covers, so there's no chance of a paw slipping between rungs.

Here's a pic of the boys giving the Critter Nation a test drive before we moved them in. They've been in it for several months now and absolutely love it.

We had planned on buying ours through Amazon.com, then found one in our local PetSmart at an amazing price one day and brought it home, just like that. (Someone must have bought it online and returned it to the store or something - I don't think they usually carry them in-store, so we lucked out and didn't have to pay for shipping!)

Anyhow, I highly recommend this model for your three chinchillas. It has plenty of room for living, sleeping, and exercising and is safe for the boy with the missing paw. It was the best decision we ever made for our chins. :)

I'm so happy for you :)! Are all 6 already friends? If yes you wouldn't want tot separate them!

The best cage for me is the Double Critter Nation. Here is a link if you are in the USA: http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Critter-Nation-Animal-Habitat/dp/B001NJ0DAY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427583929&sr=8-1&keywords=double+critter+nation

I've got 2 of them and they are perfect :)! Big, easy to clean, sturdy, pretty much chew proof!

Your response was very unnecessary and pretty insulting. So allow me to clear the air.

>I didn't know anything about caring for rabbits when I got it, and now that I know how to take care of it, it's too much work/too expensive/too boring.

We knew exactly what we were getting into. Why do you think this was necessary to include in this post?

We willing left our rabbits with their genitals because we wanted to do a litter of kits. My gf is very attached to her rabbit and wanted him to make a litter. We went into this knowing we'd take care of them if we couldn't find good homes.
The buck and doe are separated at all times. They're not pumping out babies.

The buck got taken into the vet to be neutered today. As a matter of fact, you even commented on the post I made about an hour before this one talking about it.

> once your name gets out there as somebody who takes rabbits in...

Get out where? To who? This is one of those comments that was incredibly unnecessary. I'm not starting a rabbit farm. I'm not adopting. I'm not taking in strays. And we're not having more kits. We wanted 1 litter. We got 1 litter. And he was already at the vet for neutering before I even posted this. So what is your point?

> If you ever again find yourself in a situation where you have two rabbits but would prefer to have eight, please check Petfinder and your local Craigslist (or equivalent).

Again, we WANTED this litter. Do you go around telling pregnant women they're wrong for not adopting? Good god.

>You likely won't be able to keep any of them together in pairs or groups if they are not spayed/neutered

Again, why does this merit mentioning? Are you assuming I don't know that rabbits have sex constantly?
The males and females will be separated when they're 8 weeks old and the floors between the two cages will be sealed. I specifically designed this to accommodate both sexes before they're fixed. Even more proof we went into this with intent.

> Your cage isn't THAT big.

A cage with 4 floors where EACH FLOOR is 70 inches long by 14-28 inches tall by 28 inches wide isn't big? You have to be kidding. I'm over 6 feet tall and this thing is as long as me when I lay down. A 4x4 single floor isn't even in the same ballpark as a 4 floor cage where each floor is 70x28 inches. Can you please post a pic of your cage because you're being unrealistic with your sizes and you're assuming my cage is much small than it is.

$50 cage - 27 x 19 x 20 - 1 floor

$140 cage - 63.8 x 23.6 x 19.7 - 1 floor

$230 cage - 63.8 63.4 X 23.6 - 1 floor

None of those are even close. The largest one is still about 1/2 the square footage of our cage.

> 5x2 (even with multiple levels) is definitely not large enough for six adult rabbits

Again, math... How are you going to say 5x2 is the same thing as (2x6)*4? You can double your quoted 10 sq feet and still be closer to 0 than to the actual 48 sq feet they have.

To put that in perspective, here's a video of a 100 sq foot apt a guy in NYC lives in.

I honestly think you were intending to help and you may have been trying to be nice, but you failed at both.

This is a damn good home and far better than almost any rabbits get. They have gobs of space, someone who actually gives them a proper diet and doesn't gorge them on just pellets and/or hay, they're all setup to be fixed, they have access to fresh water 24x7, they have tons of toys including homemade ones, their cages get cleaned out regularly, they stay clean and get their nails trimmed regularly...and yet your comment made me feel like I was some shitbag redneck who jams 8 rabbits into a cat carrier and leaves them there most of the time because the responsibility can't be handled.

I didn't come for a lecture, especially one that doesn't apply to me. I just came here to share some pictures with this community.

If I could give one suggestion to you, it would be "Be more graceful with your posts."




Edit: Response from walkaroundtime that I caught before deletion:

> I think you misunderstood what my post meant. I should have been clearer.
>
> I wasn't referring to YOU with that first part. I meant the people giving up their rabbits. My main point was that there are lots of homeless rabbits.
>
> By "your name," I meant "one's name". As in, from my own personal experience, as a "rabbit person" known in the area, I hear from a lot of people looking to find new homes for their rabbits.
>
> I didn't mean keeping opposite sex unfixed rabbits together. I meant that even a group of unspayed females will likely have issues coexisting peacefully because of hormones. Nothing to do with reproduction.
>
> When I said your cage isn't "THAT big," I didn't mean that it's not a nice big cage. It's just not big enough for six adult rabbits. Multi-level cages are good, but it's not the same as having the same square footage on one plane. I'd be happy to have a discussion with you on the merits of multi-level cages for rabbits if you're interested but I won't go into too much detail now...
>
> I'm honestly not sure why you're so angry. Can you read my original post again with my clarifications in mind? Sorry if my wording wasn't the clearest.



Original post before it gets deleted, too:

> I and probably the majority of people here are generally anti-breeding in most cases. This is a perspective I've developed over the years as my house has basically become a repository for unwanted rabbits. To a casual observer, it might seem like the problem of homeless rabbits isn't as widespread as with cats and dogs, but once your name gets out there as somebody who takes rabbits in, you start getting inundated with calls from people with just the worst reasons for getting rid of them. ("I didn't know anything about caring for rabbits when I got it, and now that I know how to take care of it, it's too much work/too expensive/too boring.") To their credit, at least these people are acknowledging they can't care for the rabbit and finding it a better home rather than relegating it to a short miserable life in a tiny cage and no attention. If you ever again find yourself in a situation where you have two rabbits but would prefer to have eight, please check Petfinder and your local Craigslist (or equivalent). At least in the US, there are unwanted rabbits EVERYWHERE. Just something to keep in mind.
>
> But, your rabbits are very cute, and it looks like you're taking good care of them! I do have some suggestions:
>
> You likely won't be able to keep any of them together in pairs or groups if they are not spayed/neutered, even if they are the same gender. Unaltered rabbits can be very territorial.
>
> Your cage isn't THAT big. It's certainly a big improvement over the commercially available cages, but it's pretty standard for what people in the rabbit community usually recommend for a pair of rabbits. I never keep a single rabbit in anything smaller than 4'x4' unless they're recovering from surgery or something. 5x2 (even with multiple levels) is definitely not large enough for six adult rabbits, even if they are allowed to roam free for most of the day.
>
> If you do find other homes for any of the babies, please make sure you have an agreement with the new owners that they will get them spayed/neutered at the appropriate age, not just to prevent unwanted litters but for the health and happiness of the rabbit.

If you want to stick with wire cages then this cage Prevue Pet Products 528 Universal Small Animal Home, Dark Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074FH47MQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IamPCb35KTR6G is acceptable.

There are some others that are good too. Victoria Raechel has a video on good wire cages for hammies.
https://youtu.be/vWm_W5YeNdc

Doing a diy bin cage is inexpensive too!

If you can find a used aquarium on fb or Craigslist then that is good as well. I'd suggest a 40gal breeder or larger. I keep my Syrian in a 75gal aquarium and my robo is in a 55gal aquarium.

https://www.amazon.com/MidWest-182-leak-Proof-Shelves-Measures/dp/B0054U8UGW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=ferret+nation&qid=1558915998&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Remove the ramps and mid part.
Add kiln-dried pine shelves.

You got yourself a chin cage.

The bars are sturdy and thick.
It can hold a chin spin like no tomorrow so your chins can run fast as lightning at 3am with no fright that the bars will give out.

Got difficulty with their superchin teeth because they’re biting and bending the bars?
No sir their mastermind plans for escape are foiled today. These bad boys aren’t bending one stinking bit!

It’s pricey. But knowing how long chinchillas live, you’ll have this baby well over a decade.

slaps roof of car
Great investment.

Playtime fine i just think they need a little more room that way they can have space for themselves.


MidWest Deluxe Ferret Nation Double Unit Ferret Cage (Model 182) Includes 2 leak-Proof Pans, 2 Shelves, 3 Ramps w/Ramp Covers & 4 locking Wheel Casters, Measures 36" L x 25" W x 62.5" H Inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054U8UGW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qrG0DbZ1WM2D3

If you can afford this one and have room for it, get it. I will never, ever own another cage - it is the awesome. (Especially after owning a dinky "Super Pet - My First Home".

They also have a single story version as well.

Pros:

• Easy to clean/get ferrets out due to the double doors
  
• Lots of room for playtime in the cage, just in case you can't take them out one day
  
• Easy to hang up hammocks and toys on the bars
  
• Bottom pans come out for scrubbing and covering in fleece
  
• Extremely sturdy, I doubt I'll ever have to get another cage
  
• Good door closing mechanism, ferrets can't escape
  
• Under the cage storage
  
  Cons:
  
  
• Takes up a bit of room(particularly vertically)
  
• Shelves and pans need to be covered in fleece. The shelves have a little groove on the edge nails could get stuck in.
  
• Really fucking heavy. I had to take mine up stairs the last time I moved
  
• You need a tube or stairs to allow the ferret to get in and out of his cage on his own. I use a pair of doggy stairs.

I have a huge outdoor set up that i move inside when its winter...they sleep in their cage(which is the largest one on sale on amazon) during the times im gone or sleeping
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007BNE1YA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UL3EUI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&th=1

Ferret Nations/Critter Nations (they're the same thing, just different bar spacing) are both really good cages, I highly recommend them. The doors open up all the way allowing an easy clean. It's a little pricey but definitely worth it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0054U8UGW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510607590&sr=8-1&keywords=ferret+nation+cage+182&dpPl=1&dpID=51iPQNiSSnL&ref=plSrch

Kaytee My First Home Habitat Multi-Level for Exotics

The cage it's self is oookay? It's kind of a small price jump from that one to the Critter Nation cage which is pretty much the best cage you can get besides making a crazy huge custom one so to me I'd just save a bit more and get the creme of the crop cage.


The wheel in the listing you've provided is dangerous for glider tails, most owners prefer the "stealth wheel". I have a stealth wheel and my gliders LOVE it, they are constantly playing on it. When I looked up the kind I had it was no longer available and it seems they've made a new version which is the one I've linked, I can't speak for it's quality as I don't have that model but it looks like the same and better plus less bulky then mine. I'm totally going to get one now that I know they exist haha


I don't know what the food they've shown is but if anyone tells you you can get by feeding gliders with only pellet food and no fresh fruits or meal worms they're trying to sell you something!


Good luck on your glider journey!

I would recommend a cage that is both long and wide rather than tall. While tall is nice so that they can have fun climbing, it is more important that they have wiggle and walking room. A cage with a larger area per floor will allow a lot more room to run, stretch, and play.

The best cages to buy are the ferret/critter nation cages. They are wide and long which allows plenty of room. If you're on a budget, a single layer will cost you about $150-$200, but it's well worth it. It comes with a base floor for your fuzzbutts along with a shelf for them to climb onto. Here's a link to it on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Critter-Nation-Single-Unit-Stand/dp/B0085W9CL8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1410383879&sr=8-3&keywords=critter+nation

If you have a bit more money to spend, I recommend going with the same thing, but the two layer cage. This will give them double the play room and satisfy their need to climb and explore. It's also not too tall, so you don't have to worry about them falling/jumping off. Here's a link to that one.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NJ0DAY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I, myself, purchased the double layer cage along with an extra "attachment" layer on the top. I dedicated the bottom cage to pooping/eating, the middle layer to playing, and the top to sleeping. It takes up a good amount of space in my room (being a bit over 7 feet tall with all three layers), but my three carpet sharks love it, and it's got the durability to last you a lifetime. (:

I hope I've helped! Let me know if you have any more questions or concerns, and I would be happy to help the best I can!

https://www.amazon.com/Prevue-Products-Chinchilla-495-Earthtone/dp/B001W8MDKO?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_6

Hey your ham and I have the same cage! She seems almost disappointed that you would disturb her in her mansion.

A really helpful resource is a rat cage calculator like this one

Second, if you're really on a budget, I highly recommend looking into cages for other animals like ferrets, chinchillas, sugar gliders, or birds. For some reason, I've found that rat cages seem to charge a premium. Use the rat cage calculator to check for size.

One option is this small animal cage on Amazon for $47.95 that can hold 2 rats (not any more).

Keep an eye on Craigslist and local buy/sell/trade Facebook groups and you can sometimes find a good deal on a secondhanP cage.

A big consideration is bar spacing. If your rats are full grown males they can probably not get through 1" spaces, but any younger or smaller rats need no more than 1/2" spacing. The cage I linked above has 3/8" which is fine. If you do find an inexpensive cage with large wire bar spacing, you can solve that by wrapping the cage in hardware cloth. For example, this hardware cloth from Home Depot it's only like $9 a roll and would work just fine. It's not the prettiest or most elegant solution but certainly gets the job done. If you find a super cheap secondhand cage, that can really save you a lot of money.

Finally, don't forget that rats should not be walking on bare wire shelves or ladders, or they can get sores on their feet called bumblefoot. You will need to cover the wire in some way. Many people use fleece, but it's best to place an absorbent layer underneath the fleece such as a packing blanket. Plan to change the fleece frequently, as it doesn't absorb urine and the ammonia can build up quickly and irritate your rat's respiratory system even if you can't smell it yourself. Fleece should be changed at least every 3 days.

Personally I ditched all the ramps in my rat's cages and bought rope dog chew toys from the dollar store for them to climb on. They like the challenge much better than the ramps anyway. Also at the dollar store you can get little baskets and containers for your rats to hide and sleep in. No need to spend a lot on rat-specific items. Get a dollar store package of zip ties to attach everything. Speaking of hanging things, I use these shower hooks from Amazon to hang everything and at 50 rings for like $6 they're a great deal, plus the points get covered when you close them.

Okay, that was long but good luck! Also I'd avoid Wish, they charge a fortune for shipping. Have fun!!

His cage is the Prevue Pet 528 Small Animal Home, Dark Gray from Amazon. The tapered bottom of the cage is roughly 29"x16" at approximately 464 square inches at the smallest dimensions. He has tons of space which is why we went with that specific cage. Plus the second level which is an added 170 square inches. Chompy does have a bigger food bowl now!

Here's a link! It's perfect for my two girls. Kaytee My First Home Multi-Level Habitat for Exotics, 30.5” x 18” x 30” https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CETSHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kRh3BbTNP4T2M

https://www.amazon.com/Prevue-Pet-Products-528-Universal/dp/B074FH47MQ?crid=1NOY8DYSNA0BQ&keywords=prevue+pet+products+528+universal+small+animal+home%2C+dark+gray&qid=1538200945&sprefix=prevue+&sr=8-1-fkmrnull&ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmrnull_1 Highly recommend!:)

Haha, if you end up getting males, I guarantee you will get used to the scrotums, don't worry! I personally feel males are better since females should be spayed for health reasons, while males only need to be neutered if they become aggressive. But that is just me.

I did a brief looksie into craigslist for St. Louis, and found a few contenders if you are willing to drive a little ways (all it looks like are under an hour assuming google maps isn't lying to me. These two seem like they would be good starter rats. Come with a decent cage (though it needs more decking out) and they are both very young.

This one is for a litter of babies. Sounds like it could have been an oops litter, but double check with them. You wouldn't want to support a backyard breeder.

Not sure about the circumstances regarding these rats.

It says this one appears to be the closest (20 minutes). 2 male rats.

There are other posts, but these stuck out to me. If none on craigslist speak to you, check out hoobly and bookoo as well.

Depends on how much space you have. The min requirement is 450 sq. in. I’d recommend

Prevue Pet Products 528 Universal Small Animal Home, Dark Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074FH47MQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GcekDbJZRKTS6

https://www.chewy.com/kaytee-crittertrail-small-animal/dp/189005

Or any 110 qt plastic tote with either holes drilled in or hardware mesh and again there are tutorials on YouTube

We got this one. https://www.amazon.com/Prevue-Pet-Products-528-Universal/dp/B074FH47MQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=prevue+528&qid=1558607884&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Theres only 6 inches room in the bottom for bedding though. Its fine for our dwarf but there is still only 619 sq inches total floor space. Our dwarf is very happy in it, but for a syrian it still might not keep him/her happy. How long did you try the bigger bin cage and how large was it exactly?

Some basic hamster help for you, but do more research than what people are telling you! Go onto YouTube and make a playpen, a giant one, with tons of toys and enrichment. Way safer than a ball or car thing you said you have. A ball distorts their vision and stresses them out. Also doesn’t provide ventilation . Also is no enrichment at all just stress a giant playpen is way safer and he would enjoy it way more. This video shows a cheap east DIY play pen. I saw your post about looking into an upgrade but for some reference here’s some store bought cages of appropriate size of 450sq inches or above. Nite angel cage and prevue 528. Their is also bin cages, but a plastic tote and some metal mesh and make a giant cage for super cheap. I made a bin cage for my Roboroski hamster. Bin cage DIY. Munchies place on YouTube runs a hamster rescue and has done a ton of cage reviews telling why your cage is bad and the nite angel and prevue cage is good. Nite angel review and Prevue 528 review. Also your baby is a Syrian hamster and those cages come with a 6.5” wheel, and a Syrian needs a minimum of 10” wheel. he will get bad back problem if never upgraded they can cause a lot of suffering and pain for him. A hamsters back should be completely straight while on the wheel, if it curves at all it’s causes back problems, same goes for the hamster ball. I hope this helps and you do listen and upgrade soon. This cage does make a great travel cage tho so it’s not a waste of money! Some more links as well Why tiny cages are bad and hamster wheel basic knowledge . But Please listen and do what’s best for him. Don’t be overwhelmed do research and do what’s best, I don’t mean to be mean just trying to inform. I made the same mistake with my first hamsters but learned and know am happy to spread proper knowledge, it’s the pet stores fault for telling you this is correct, hamsters are one of the most abused animals out their so it’s our job to help provide proper knowledge to new hamster owners, please take in everything and do your own research and do what’s best!

• Hedgehog - $200
  
• Cage ~ $50-100 Homemade #1, Homemade #2, Exceptable premade
  
• Carolina Storm Wheel - $25
  
• Hut, food dish, water bottle, liter box (you can litter train them!-not clay litter)- $50
  
• Heat Lampand Ceramic Heat Emitter- $40 It is important that you use a reptile heat lamp or lamp that can withstand very high heat. Make sure the lamp can take the right wattage too.
  
• Bedding - $20-40/mo
  
• Toys (tube, cat toys) - $10-20
  
• Food ~ $30/mo
  
  Total Startup: ~$500
  
  Also to note most of the "hedgehog foods" you'll find are not good. Your hedgehog will do a lot better on a high end cat food. Kitten formula dry food is best for the first 4-6 months of its life then switch to adult. You can also try to incorporate high end wet chicken and turkey cat foods.

My hammy has this one. It’s not too expensive, has smaller space between the bars and more floor area than the one you posted.

Prevue Pet Products 528 Universal Small Animal Home, Dark Gray

https://www.amazon.com/Prevue-Pet-Products-528-Universal/dp/B074FH47MQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=Prevue+Pet+Products+528+Universal+Small+Animal+Home%2C+Dark+Gray&qid=1555853071&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Wait, why? I think it’s this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CETSHN2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518057167&sr=8-1&keywords=kaytee+rat+cage&dpPl=1&dpID=61r7Y9AFsPL&ref=plSrch

It’s actually lime green.

Even if you cant afford a critter nation, petsmart has something like this that my fiance and I were looking at and amazon has this. I would highly recommend you lay down some fleece blankets as a form of bedding if you get a wire cage like that. They can get their little rattie toes stuck or sprain something and that could be really painful for one of your little guys.




My fiance and I are planning on getting our girls a new cage within the next couple weeks, if you'd like I can keep you posted, since we are certainly working with a budget.

I have a 10 gallon tank with a wire cage topper. Wire is best that way they don't eat everything that is plastic. It has worked pretty well and I think they like being able to climb.
Best I can do for a link on my phone to the topper I have:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0027J381U/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1380680596&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

There's a lot of options! With a bigger cage, you'll definitely see an improvement in your hamster's behavior. It's recommended that the cage size be around 450 sq inches of uninterrupted floor space, so you'd prob want the cage size to be about 600 sq inches.

If you're feeling crafty:

1. Bin cage (cheap) - take a cheap plastic storage bin, cut a large square out of the lid, add some wire mesh to the hole to provide fresh air for the hamster, and you've got a cage.
   
   
2. Rabbit cage (this is what I did) - rabbit cages are generally a good size for hamsters, but the bars are often spaced too far apart so you'll need to add some mesh around the outside so the hamster can't escape.
   
   There's also fish tanks that you can use or some people buy an Ikea detolf cabinet (~$50) and lie it on its side. If you have some money to spend, there's a few (very few) hamster cages that are an adequate size for a hamster. This is the only one that I know of (and it's a little pricey), but maybe you can find something else:
   https://www.amazon.com/Lixit-Animal-Care-Hamster-Heaven/dp/B003QRPAR2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1523494327&sr=8-2&keywords=huge+hamster+cage
   
   Also, for a syrian, it's recommended that you have an 11-12" wheel!!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054U8UGW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_O1V3Db5ES7TBN

Looking it to give the link for it realized they put it on sale already. Damnit lol

Even better here's a link

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007BNE1YA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524335943&sr=8-1&keywords=living+world+cage&dpPl=1&dpID=510mTiUYAoL&ref=plSrch

I got it at I think eighty dollars so I think the price fluctuates.

To answer some more of the questions you asked:

I've never travelled more than a couple hours with my rats before. I have a smallish cage used for travelling, but it wouldn't be good for keeping rats in for an extended period of time. This cage would work as a travel cage and temporary housing while on trips back home. It can house 3 rats comfortably. I'd be careful using it as a permanent home, though. I had this cage for a few months and once my boys started chewing on the base, they were able to escape within 4-5 days. Keep hammocks in the cage while in the car. The swaying helps keep them a little calmer as they're less likely to feel all the bumps and such the road causes the car to make.

You eventually get over their enormous testicles. You can get them neutered, but not all rats handle the anesthesia well. I actually just lost a boy last week because he had a problem with the anesthesia after a neuter. He's the only rat I've ever had neutered. I know lots of people do it with great success, I just wasn't so lucky.

Also, since I forgot to address this in the parent comment, when buying rats, getting them from the same litter is going to be easiest. You won't have to keep them separated and do introductions since they'll have been together their whole lives.

Another thing I forgot in my previous comment, keep 2 water bottles (not water bowls) in the cage even if you only have 2 rats. Sometimes water bottles don't work as intended and either won't distribute water or leak all of the water out. Also, test the bottles after you hang them to make sure they are dispensing water properly.

This looks like it:

http://www.amazon.com/Super-Pet-Deluxe-Multi-Level-Casters/dp/B000CMHWZC

I don't have the casters and I'm missing the ramp. But mine has the purple platforms and the green spiral thingy and the openings where this one has openings.

Is this the one you're referring to?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NJ0DAE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ND7YAb9Z8579Z

Common cages you’ll see recommended are the Critter Nation and Martin’s cages. For a good quality, new cage you can probably expect to pay around $110 to $250. Most people on this forum are huge CN fans - it’s a HUGE cage, with wide/accessible doors, and is basically a sturdy free-standing piece of furniture. You can get a single unit now, and if you end up getting more rats (which you very well might!) you can get an add-on unit! Potential downsides to the CN are the lack of deep pans (you basically have to use fleece, or create/buy deep pans). It’s extremely heavy, and takes up a lot of floor space. Even though the wide doors make it easy to reach inside, it is filled with hollow parts that trap water and easily rust. In order to deep clean it, you’ll have to take it apart, clean, and dry each component - you shouldn’t just hose it down.

I currently have a Martin’s Cage, and I do love it. You should get an R-680 or larger and get the powder coated version. I love the deep pan for bedding, how light/transportable it is, the fact it doesn’t take up my limited floor space, and especially that I easily rinse it in my shower and don’t worry about rust. I don’t have a washing machine so using fleece would end up being pretty pricey.

​

If you are thinking of using fleece, don't really need to frequently transport the cage, or will likely get many rats, then CN might be the best way to go for you! For my situation the Martin's Cage is working wonderfully :)

Here is amazon.com's price history: https://camelcamelcamel.com/MidWest-Critter-Nation-Animal-Habitat/product/B001NJ0DAE

The critter nation single unit is pretty cheap on amazon, and free shipping if you have prime. Only a little more than your budget, but worth it I'd say! Great quality and lasts forever.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001NJ0DAE?pc_redir=1413116983&robot_redir=1#

Sometimes ferret.com has it for around 100, the price goes up and down randomly.

MidWest Critter Nation Single Level, two level optional depending on budget.

• http://smile.amazon.com/MidWest-Critter-Nation-Animal-Habitat/dp/B001NJ0DAY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462676314&sr=8-1&keywords=midwest+critter+nation
  
  Space Pod
  
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/Lixit-Critter-Space-Pod-Large/dp/B002X2NBNQ/ref=pd_sim_199_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=514yBZHbQ1L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=09NQ6RB0F97DR3FYWSP7
  
  Oxbow Regal Rat food
  
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/Oxbow-Regal-Rat-Food-3-Pound/dp/B000GABM1K/ref=pd_sim_199_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=51DFDAhgD3L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR113%2C160_&refRID=09NQ6RB0F97DR3FYWSP7
  
  Water bottles
  
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/LIXIT-Proof-Glass-Water-Bottle/dp/B0002QI5WM/ref=pd_sim_199_7?ie=UTF8&dpID=41Wb3MLRcfL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR135%2C160_&refRID=09NQ6RB0F97DR3FYWSP7
  
  
  Litter box
  
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/Ware-Plastic-Lock-N-Litter-Small-Colors/dp/B000HG96EI/ref=pd_sim_199_21?ie=UTF8&dpID=517FLhZC5FL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=09NQ6RB0F97DR3FYWSP7
  
  Hammock
  
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/ProSelectA-Polka-Dot-Cage-Hammocks/dp/B005N11YLK/ref=pd_sim_199_16?ie=UTF8&dpID=51lb4SYKutL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=09NQ6RB0F97DR3FYWSP7
  
  Food bowl
  
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/Kaytee-Stoneware-Hamster-Bowl-Inch/dp/B0040B9NOY/ref=sr_1_11?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1462676611&sr=1-11&keywords=food+dish

This would be a much more suitable cage for three rats as it's made of metal but the base is easy to remove for cleaning as is the shelf. http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Critter-Nation-Animal-Habitat/dp/B001NJ0DAY It's actually the cage I have for my 3 boys and they enjoy it. Eventually I'd recommend maybe expanding it to include the top cage as well so they have even more room to move around if possible. Also, the bonus of this cage is that there is a shelf below it where you can store things. Just make sure that you aren't storing food down there because they will eat it. My husband also made a little ramp out of a piece of wood he covered in felt so that when we let our boys out they can come and go out of their cage as they please. Also, we use felt rather than fluff for their cage (mainly because one of our rats is allergic to most fluff) because it's so much easier to change. We change the felt and do a full wipe down of the cage with soap and water/disinfecting wipes every 3 or 4 weeks but with cleaning up/picking up poops/emptying their poop pan every couple of days. We use a shallow and small brownie pan for a poop pan and stick it to the floor with magnets. That way it's easy for us to remove but they can't push it around or flip it over.


You can get a bowl and water bottle at petco. They're not expensive. Make sure that you get food blocks for them rather than a food mix. With a food mix they can pick and choose what they want to eat (such as just the seeds) whereas with food blocks they will get complete nutrition in one place. We keep the food blocks in our freezer to avoid any tiny bugs that may come join the bag (which happened in the past when we ordered a large 50 lb bag and kept it in a plastic container...big waste of money).


Most rats will not use that flying saucer. Also, they can be dangerous and ratties can hurt themselves on them. I would not recommend getting one.


If they fight I would just let them be unless they're really getting loud and squeaking a whole lot. Then break it up. Usually a "hey!" is enough to get them to stop. But if not then you can always poke them with your finger. Not hard. Just enough to take their attention off of each other. Fighting isn't always a bad thing. Sometimes ratties just do it for fun and it's more like wrestling even though it might look like fighting. It's also a way to establish pecking order/the alpha role.


You don't need to give them specific vitamins but there are several foods that you should never give to rats. There's actually quite a long list so make sure that you google it or use the links at the side of this subreddit. They will help you learn what is okay and what's not okay for them to eat. They will get all of their vitamins in the food blocks but rats do get bored easily so you need to make sure that you supplement with veggies and fruit. Also, yogies (yogurt drops) are a wonderful treat for rats. They LOVE them. You can find them at petco next to the rat food.


You should let them out daily or at the very least every couple of days to explore and run around. We let our rats out for a few hours a day. But please make sure that you have a specific area for them to explore and that there isn't anything around that can hurt them or that they can get into that they shouldn't. We like to let our rats run around our living room. We block off our kitchen door and our hallway door and let them run around and explore. Rats love to chew so try to keep an eye on them. Chewing is a natural thing though. They do it to keep their teeth at the right length. A good way to combat chewing is by making sure that they have enough toys and things to play with in and outside of their cage. That link to that little toy you put up is a great and fun thing for rats! They will destroy it in no time at all but they will immensely enjoy it. See the links at the side for more toy ideas or google some.


Rats do need bathes every now and again. It can be difficult though as most hate water. If you want to introduce your rats to water then use lukewarm water in your bathtub and put just enough in that part of the floor is covered but that there's still a dry area for them to go if they hate it. They may try to climb up your arms and claw the shit out of you like mine do and they may poop a bunch but don't be alarmed. Those are fear poops. Just scoop them out and continue on. Use just a dab of animal safe shampoo and wash them. Do not get their heads super wet. I usually just avoid their heads all together. It's going to be difficult to wash them if they hate the water but sometimes a full bath is really needed. Other times you can just use a warm, wet washcloth and wipe them down. If they hated the bath tub then there's a good chance they will hate the wet washcloth as well. We bathe our boys when they start to smell or just if it's been a while. So probably every 2-3 months. They are really not fans of water so we try to only bath tub bathe them if a wet washcloth won't do the trick. Just make sure that you have a fluffy dry towel to wrap them in once they are done so they can be nice and warm!


If you need any other advice please feel free to ask. Just make sure that you check out those links to the side and really really study up about how to properly care for a rat. Rats are amazing little creatures and are such fun pets but like any pet they do require care and love. So get as familiar as you can with proper care before you bring them home.

Hahaha! I have this cage, the Critter Nation Double Unit, and I leave the left hand side top and bottom open whenever I am in their room. They do this! Nothing like seeing 6 little rat noses trying to get your attention!

that is way to expensive for how small it looks (though I didnt see dimensions listed which is a huge red flag) also my gliders have NEVER had a problem with vertical bars in the 4 years I have had them.

If horizontal bars are a must for you there are much nicer cages with bars also the tunnels are pointless an
d there are much better ways to add environmental enrichment.


all of these cages are nice:
https://www.exoticnutrition.com/Departments/Shop-By-Category/Cages/Sugar-Glider-Cages.aspx
https://www.thepetglider.com/collections/sugar-glider-cages-accessories
https://www.amazon.com/MidWest-Critter-162-leak-Proof-Measures/dp/B001NJ0DAY <<the double critter nation is a good size and has horizontal bars

Also, knowing how shady pocket pets is I would never ever recommend supporting them.

Can go wrong with a double critter nation cage. You can keep 4+ rats in one alone! My babies love it.

ETA: https://www.amazon.com/MidWest-Critter-162-leak-Proof-Measures/dp/B001NJ0DAY

https://www.amazon.com/MidWest-Critter-162-leak-Proof-Measures/dp/B001NJ0DAY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=midwest+critter+nation&qid=1572996901&sprefix=midwest+critt&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE3NUZNUUpKNUE4QU0mZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAyMTQzMzkxVDlYVk40UVk0UEc2JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0NTc1NDUxNVVETFIyUFZXWUdSJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

It's a Midwest double critter Nation cage attached to a second one.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001NJ0DAY

That's the cage we have and our two love it. I agree that it's too rusty for him. Especially if he chews where it is rusted.

Also if you live near a Joan fabrics they usually have fleeces on sale. So you can get yards of cute patters for relatively cheap! We load them up with it so they have comfy little places to sleep when they don't feel like sleeping in their beds

This cage is more expensive ($250 before tax + shipping), but it is probably the best cage on the market for gliders. Out of the box its perfect. Horizontal bars, lots of space. shelves. LARGE doors. Its even modular, you can add more sections on.

This is from a link in the sidebar - http://ratguide.com/care/environment/housing_needs.php - there's tons of more helpful links there

Just so you know, you want a bigger cage, not smaller. Most people here save up for the biggest cages they can afford. One of the most popular ones I see here is the tall 63" Critter Nation - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NJ0DAY?ie=UTF8&tag=httpwwwathing-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B001NJ0DAY - sometimes they can be found used on Craigslist for cheaper.

Keeping rats in cages that are too small is cruel and inhumane, and you'll end up with very sick, stressed, and miserable animals.

While you're in the research stage, it'll be helpful to look up the vets in your area, to see if there's any who specialize or have knowledge rats/small animals. HTH

The cage is too small. With boy pigs, you should have 10 square feet, but to do that you have to build a C&C cage.

Here's some info on cage sizes: https://www.guineapigcages.com/

And here's where they have their kits you can buy: http://www.guineapigcagesstore.com/standard-guinea-pig-cages

I have been making do with 8 square feet. Specifically, with the Midwest cage, which I bought through the rescue when I adopted my boys. I do want to get a bigger cage in the next few months, since my schedule has changed and I can't give them 3-4 hours of playtime every day anymore. But this is a better size than what you have and likely less money, and you can combine two to make a really big cage if you have enough floorspace.

https://www.amazon.com/Guinea-Habitat-Plus/dp/B001NJ0DQ8

What is your mom's specific reason for not wanting two guinea pigs? If it's expense, having two does not change the costs very much at all. If it's worry they won't bond with people, they still will. But people can't spend ALL their time with guinea pigs, and a cagemate will be there at all times and know how to speak guinea pig language. Pigs are happier, healthier, and braver with friends around. If it's that they won't get along, Hamlet should be fine with a boy from the same litter. OR you could still contact a guinea pig rescue and see if they do guinea pig dates, which is when you bring in your guinea pig and they put him with one of their guinea pigs in a neutral space to see if they'll get along. Note: They probably won't let you adopt a pig friend for Hamlet unless you can prove you have a big enough cage.

Even if you don't adopt from them, a local guinea pig rescue can be a good resource to tell you what vets they recommend and how to do certain things. Mine does nail trimmings, boar cleanings and simple health checks for free.

If your mom absolutely won't let you get a second pig, keep a close eye on Hamlet and see if he acts lethargic or depressed. He could get depression without a pig buddy, and there's nothing you can do to fix that except find him a friend.

Guinea pigs will pee during floortime, since they can only hold it for 10 minutes or so. Put stuff down to protect your floor, like fleece over a showercurtain. If you're doing laptime, they might get squirmy or start nibbling on you to tell you they need to go pee. They don't really like peeing on you, but accidents happen.

Good luck and enjoy Hamlet! Do your best to get him a bigger cage and a buddy. He'll be much healthier and happier with both. :)

I haven't got any experience with the cage you have, but it looks like a decent enough size for two females (I think nearly 8 sq feet?). I have two of these and I like them a lot.

However, with both cages, you are going to go through a LOT of paper bedding (I don't recommend any type of wood, generally). I go through 30 litres per cage, so basically one large bag of carefresh per week. If I didn't work at a pet store I don't think I could afford it. Because of the size, I'd recommend fleece bedding (with a u-haul moving blanket underneath). It's a bit more work, as you have to sweep it or shake it off every day, but it's so much more cost efficient.

As for the food, excellent choice :) Just check their bedding for any white urine residue - it means they're getting too much calcium in their diet, which is a common issue with the Ox Bow. I still like it better than other brands. I use their timothy hay as well as it seems to be the highest quality that I can find reliably. You can order it in 9 pound and 50 pound boxes on Amazon as well.

The only other thing I can think of to recommend at the moment is to have two water bottles and two food bowls. You don't want them fighting over resources. I'd recommend something like this for hay because it holds a lot more than most hay feeders I've seen.

Hope I've answered a few questions and good luck with the new piggies! They are amazingly fun little animals.

Hey! Sounds like you have definitely started on some good research! Your mom should not have to worry about rabies with your hedgie, unless it has access to wildlife, like raccoons and possums. Your hedgie should be kept indoors or supervised when outside, so I can't forsee there being any issues. A lot of people build their own cages, but I prefer this one here. In fact, that is the type of cage I have had since I got mine five years ago. I would recommend, however, that you use fleece blankets to line the cage instead of woodchips. I don't forsee it being a problem with a female, but a male hedgehog can absolutely get woodchips stuck in their penile shafts. Mine is blind, so his cage is pretty bare, but for a healthy hedgie, I would keep a wheel, an igloo or something for him to hide in, toys (I used kitty kongs, and little jinlgy cat toys that looked like ping pong balls).

There are a lot of good resources on this website. It has everything from what to feed, how to build cages, veterinarians that have knowledge of hedgies in your area, and the like.

The biggest key is to give your hedgie lots of time to adjust to you and warm up to you. Some of them take a lot of time to be socialized, and sometimes it just isn't going to happen. Some of them just have a pretty grumpy disposition. I bathe mine every couple of months, but I let him walk around in some warm water more frequently than that to wash off his "poopy boots".

I feed mine cat food (Purina One Chicken & Rice), but there are a variety of options. You can treat them with mealworms and other little snacks. Hedgehog Central really was the most useful source for me, though, when I was considering purchasing my baby.

https://www.amazon.com/Guinea-Habitat-Plus/dp/B001NJ0DQ8/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1502547989&sr=1-4&keywords=Guinea+pig+cage

How about that one?

Hey! Your new gerbils are very adorable :)

The cage you have now is a good starter cage, but should not be used for long term housing. Gerbils are desert animals, meaning they are better suited in an environment in which they can burrow. My suggestion is a simple 10 gallon tank for now. 10 gallons is the recommended size for two gerbils, 20 gallons for 3, you get the point. Just go to your local pet store and buy a 10 gallon tank and a tank lid (these should be in the reptile section). Then fill it with ASPEN bedding. Pine and Cedar are deadly to gerbils, because the dust from them will affect their respiratory systems. If you want, you can get a tank topper to expand the size of their cage like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Chew-Proof-Sm-High-Rise/dp/B0027J381U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406524528&sr=8-2&keywords=gerbil+tank

Gerbils will chew the living day light out of those plastic stairs, which they could ingest and have some serious medical consequences.

Something that you probably know, but is always good to reiterate, and is different for all gerbils, give them time to settle in. Lots of gerbil related fatal diseases are stress induced, so make sure they have a week or two to get situated, and then introduce yourself by hand feeding them treats, like pumpkin seeds.

Good luck with your new buddies. You'll love them as much as I love mine :)

This is already great, thank you! I’m adopting two, is that not enough? I notice you are getting a few more so I’m wondering :)

Great suggestion about the fleece blankets! Also would this cage be a good option?

Kaytee My First Home Deluxe Multi-Level Pet Home with Casters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CMHWZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_V0diAb0X0CR0K

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ferplast-Ferret-Plus-Rat-Cage/dp/B000TE0X04/ref=asc_df_B000TE0X04/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=255759595579&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18253290938476570400&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045086&hvtargid=aud-543776533562:pla-420330673606&psc=1&th=1&psc=1 that's a good size cage for 2/3 rats and is quite a easy to find cage 2nd hand for around £40 avoid using any kind of of tank or plastic enclosure it needs to be a wired cage for ventilation the ammonia from the pee can't escape from tanks or plastic cages even plastic cages you drill air holes in it won't be able to escape and will a make them uncomfortable from the smell and b put them at much higher risk of respiratory infections

Personally, I wouldn't get a rat from a pet store. As others mentioned, they tend to have more health/behavioral problems. They live in glass tanks, after all. I've gotten all but 1 of my rats from craigslist, usually somebody has an "oops" litter and sells the babies. (yes, they "sell" them because people looking for snake food can often find feeder rats for free). I got Hercules from a pet store because he was like, returned to them and they were trying to adopt him out. I couldn't stand seeing him in a 10-gallon tank, watching everyone walk by him and dealing with kids banging on the glass. He was very young and adorable so I had to have him. :3

As for products, I recommend a plastic igloo or 2 because you can wash and re-use them. My rats don't chew on them but I can't speak for every one. I make most of their toys and hammocks, though. You can go to stores like Jo-Ann Fabrics and they have a "remnants" section with rolls of fleece for 50% off!!

I also buy their food from pet stores. I use Kaytee Healthy Support Diet (nutritional lab blocks) and pick the green things out because it gives them diarrhea. I wouldn't recommend the seed mixes you see at pet stores, they're very fattening and don't have a lot of nutrition. Wood chews and stuff are fine but my rats never touch them. They prefer toilet paper tubes, etc.

Right off the bat, I would say SPLURGE ON A BIG CAGE. You will thank me later. I bought a shitty $30 cage on craigslist for my first rats and it was a living hell to clean. Best choice is a Critter Nation cage. Huge doors that open the whole cage are amazing.

Most people cover the shelves in fleece and potty train their rats to use a little litter box in the corner. I never had the patience, so I replaced the bottom shelf with a concrete mixing bin and fill it with paper bedding, and the top shelf is wrapped in fleece.

This was way longer than I expected but good luck! Make sure if you get more than one that they're all boys or all girls. (duh :p)

It's a bit pricey, but I recommend a Critter Nation cage. Virtually unescapable. Many people go for the double but I have a single for 3 boys and it's perfect.

Other suggestions would be a LARGE, WELL-VENTILATED aquarium until they're older, you could re-wrap the cage with smaller chicken wire and zip-tie that shit on VERY tight. Go nuts with the zip ties, in every loose possible place they could lift the wire from the cage. Make sure there are no sharp parts, though.

Perhaps not the best idea, but if you're very desperate you could plug the drain in your bathtub, put a bunch of towels/blankets in it and let them chill there for the night so you can sleep.

Sure, I believe I got in from amazon!

https://www.amazon.com/MidWest-Critter-Nation-Animal-Habitat/dp/B001NJ0DAY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483726860&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=double+critter+nation&psc=1

Oh sorry! That is a "Double Critter Nation" https://www.amazon.com/MidWest-Critter-162-leak-Proof-Measures/dp/B001NJ0DAY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518569969&sr=8-2&keywords=double+critter+nation+cage They look like that.

I actually started with my 2 chins in the same exact cage. Wound up going with the critternation at Petsmart for $260, you can get it on amazon for about $200 though:

http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Critter-Nation-Animal-Habitat/dp/B001NJ0DAY

mine came with plastic trays, very similar to a dog crate, but they make metal trays that are obviously chew proof. My gf and I made felt slipover covers for the tray though (for their feetsies, and to prevent plastic chewing), and they absolutely LOVE it!

This one is from Critter Nation. The bigger one of the 2 on that page. It is a great cage and I love the huge doors. I can open them fully while I clean the cage and the gliders don't even jump out.

You are very welcome and here are some links to the 2 cages I suggested

https://www.amazon.com/MidWest-Critter-162-leak-Proof-Measures/dp/B001NJ0DAY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549276276&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=ferret+nation&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Prevue-Hendryx-485-Products-Hammertone/dp/B000QFMYWQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549276306&sr=8-1&keywords=feisty+ferret

My vet has told me it is also super important to feed a wide variety of food. This is my list that I use to find good foods

https://www.dropbox.com/s/a3tj2jbsfiekjin/FruitVegLIST2011.pdf?dl=0

and this is a modified hpw recipe
Ratio 2.05:1 Calcium 21.47 mg Phos 10.46 mg

Protein 0.59 g Sugar 2.94 g Iron 0.05 mg

Fat 0.23 g Fiber 0.06 g



1 cup Juice (Gerber Yogurt Juice *Green Juice plus extra 1/8 tsp Calcium)

1 cup Honey

3 Large Eggs - cooked

6 oz Yogurt - Plain or Low Fat Vanilla

2 TBS Bee Pollen Granules

1/2 cup Wombaroo High Protein Supplement

1 tsp NOW brand Calcium Carbonate Powder (1200 mg / tsp)

Add Water about 1 cup - using just enough to make the full batch equal 5 cups total.



Once it's made stick it in the freezer, it scoops out like ice cream.

here's a place you can get the wombaroo powder
http://www.thepamperedglider.com/supplements.htm

the 1 kilo box lasts about 1.5 years for two gliders. Keep it in the freezer


I got them this cage
https://www.amazon.com/MidWest-Critter-Nation-Animal-Habitat/dp/B001NJ0DAY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487078028&sr=8-1&keywords=double+critter+nation

and this wheel
https://www.amazon.com/Exercise-Wheel-Gliders-Rats-Stealth-XMount/dp/B00GEI46XE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487078063&sr=8-1&keywords=stealth+glider+wheel

and they love life. They also holy flying hell love meal worms.

The cage is a two level critter nation, sometimes branded as a ferret nation. The bars are coated and chew resistant and the doors come off to make it easier to work on the insides. Overall we are very happy with it. We got ours from amazon on sale with free shipping.

This is the one we purchased, but paid closer to $180 at the time. They are somewhat modular as far as adding levels and laying out the insides.

Midwest Critter Nation Animal Habitat with Stand, Double Unit, 36 Inches by 24 Inches by 63 Inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NJ0DAY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Dthsub0KHMHXE

One of our large pet chain stores sells them which I suppose has increased their popularity slightly. They aren't common though! People still look at me confused when I say what they are. Try this: http://www.amazon.com/MidWest-Critter-Nation-Animal-Habitat/dp/B001NJ0DAY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449847947&sr=8-1&keywords=liberta+explorer+cage

My little guy loves this!
I have a bunch of cheap $5 polar fleece blankets from Walmart that he loves and makes it super easy to keep the cage clean.
EDIT: formatting

I recommend amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001NJ0DAY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1512059111&sr=8-1&keywords=critter+cage&dpPl=1 It is cheap right now and awesome.

I upgraded to the Midwest Deluxe Critter Nation Two Story https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NJ0DAY/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I like the horizontal bars, its size, the flat floor, large doors, and that you can expand it. I can only recommend it if you are willing to work on it, as it can be hard to put together and dangerous otherwise.

If the pieces were perfect, it would not be hard to put together. But some of the connections were bent and needed to be straitened, had a bad weld that made a gap, so had to be creative and a second set of hands to get it into place. It is just a one time headache and your set might be better.

For sugar gliders, you will want to not add the middle floor section, not adding it exposes holes, and then there is holes for where you can add the adjustable shelves.

The dangerous part is the holes have sharp edges, so they need to be filed smooth. Also, the punched out bit is still in the holes on most of them. They can be removed with needle nose pliers. If this is not done, I would worry about a curious sugar glider loosing a finger or whole hand...

​

The one I had before was the HQ Flight Cage https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UTZ040/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It is a little smaller, but still a descent size, it has bars on the bottom and slide out floor under it, so with a bit of newspaper (or what ever you prefer) it was easy to clean it, the smaller doors can be an advantage if you have have trouble keeping the gliders inside when you open it.

I had it for three years, the main reason I replaced it is I did not like the vertical bars, even though I never had an issue, I worried about it hurting their feet, as they always slid down on the bars a bit and with the bars on the bottom, they did not have much flat ground to stand on. I also wanting something a bit larger.

Other wise, it was a great cage. It was easy to put together and the only adjustment I had to make was to zip tie shut the little bird doors on the top of it.

​

I looked into both cages, before getting them, to make sure they were not coated with anything toxic to sugar gliders, which is the main issue with cheap bird cages.

Thank you for the help! But could you help me pick out a cage that doesn't pass 50$? I found this one on the C & C site and thought it looked okay, it has good reviews but it doesn't have a top panel and I have cats. One cat is pretty old and she doesn't bother a fly and the other is quite curious.

http://www.petsmart.com/small-pet/cages-habitats-hutches/midwest-guinea-pig-habitat-zid36-5171983/cat-36-catid-600011?_t=pfm%3Dcategory

I found the same cage for one day delivery on amazon for a little less but it also has the top panel.

http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Interactive-Guinea-Habitat-Plus/dp/B001NJ0DQ8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407339861&sr=8-2&keywords=guinea+pig+cage+top


Is it big enough for two guinea pigs or do I need a bigger cage?

I really like this one. The tarp is super easy to clean and you can add expansions to the cage:
Guinea Habitat Plus Guinea Habitat Plus https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NJ0DQ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pV7PybFGY70EK

https://www.amazon.com/Guinea-Habitat-MidWest-Panel-Inches/dp/B001NJ0DQ8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=guinea+pig+cage&qid=1557866502&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I have these for mine and they’re really happy in them. These cages connect, each purchase is purchasing one cage so if you would like multiple make sure to check the quantity. I personally didn’t put the top grid on because I want the space to feel more open for my piggies. Waterproof bottom and you can use fleece or bedding. And it’s super easy to set up!

Edit: sorry for the messy link

To be happy 2 piggies need at minimum 8 square feet so they can run. I recommend this cage https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NJ0DQ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_gmWZCbSX9HDPM if you can’t fit that, I’d suggest waiting or looking into a different pet like a hamster. I made the bad decision when I adopted my piggies as babies to get a smaller cage and expand when they grew up. 2 months later I was buying another, bigger cage. There’s no 2 ways about it. If piggies don’t have a big cage they will just be bored and sit around all day. It’s big but necessary.
Most guinea pigs also need a piggie friend to be happy because they’re herd animals. There are rare exceptions but typically one guinea pig is a depressed guinea pig.
My cage doesn’t even perfectly fit in my room- kinda have to step over it- but to me it’s worth it.

Guinea Habitat Plus Guinea Habitat Plus https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NJ0DQ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_S347ybHKJN5V1



This was my first cage. I use it for my two boys still

For me it has been trial and error mostly, you kind of see what they prefer. Very amazing animals and the personality reflects them definitely. I've had Oli for 4 months now and have bought two cages, two wheels, and went through multiple different kinds of bedding.

Cage wise, I started with your first one, and realized shortly after Oli wanted more room.

This was what I have now, and I love it.

Guinea Habitat Plus https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NJ0DQ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rVndzbSGFY140

Make sure you buy a large wheel, both the saucer spinners and silent spinners work great.

As far as bedding, I like the carefresh recycled cardboard. It's less messy and absorbs. My hedgie prefers the bedding, but that doesn't go for all.

carefresh Complete Natural Paper Bedding for Small Animals, 50 L https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PBM761S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_t2ndzbJMEF9Y5

I tried a fleece and he wasn't liking that because he had nothing to burrow in. Make sure you have places for your little guy to hide!

https://www.amazon.com/Guinea-Habitat-MidWest-Panel-Inches/dp/B001NJ0DQ8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=guinea+pig+cage&qid=1556043946&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

These are awesome customizable and expandable enclosures. You can connect them to each other for as much space as you could want, plus they have dividers and such available as well. I used them when I had guinea pigs and they worked great.
I've also seen them sold at walmart occasionally.

Gotcha. Unfortunately I don't have much space, but what would your thoughts be on this item? Would it be good enough?

https://www.amazon.com/Guinea-Habitat-Plus/dp/B001NJ0DQ8/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1505353956&sr=1-1&keywords=guinea+pig+cage

I'll try to link it, the cage I bought was $40 and is a similar style to c+c

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001NJ0DQ8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474639533&sr=8-1&keywords=guinea%2Bpig%2Bcage&pi=SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=51LjyRUWqfL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

Here ya go. I'm in the US so I don't know if it'll be different. They also have just the cage (no "plus") for $35

https://www.amazon.com/Prevue-Chinchilla-495-Earthtone-Dusted/dp/B001W8MDKO/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=prevue+rat+cage&qid=1567958075&s=gateway&sr=8-1

I got this for my guys. It's about the size of a single Critter Nation, but it's cheaper. I found mine on sale with free shipping, so you might be able to shop around a few sites. It ships to Canada though.
Only downsides of the cage are - it has just the door, not the opening front of the CN, so it's not as easy to reach some parts of the cage, and the bars are vertical rather than horizontal so it gives you less options of how/where to hang things. Other than that it has been a great cage.

It shouldn’t be, they’re naturally very social! The best way to introduce a second would be to look into the split cage method. If you can, separate the tank in half using wire - like a mesh screen or part of an old hamster cage - so that they can see and smell each other but not touch. You keep them like that for a while until they are comfortable and in the meantime swap toys between each side or even swap which side each critter is on until they’re comfortable with the scent.

If you can, a bigger enclosure is always better, but my girls did just fine in a 10gal for a while before I was able to upgrade. A cheaper way to get more space is a cage topper - something like this, I’ve used this one and found some similar in stores for around $20 USD. You can put the wheel and food up there and give them more room at the bottom for deeper bedding, they love to tunnel!

On that note Carefresh is a great bedding. Some people like to mix in aspen wood chips or Timothy hay for a little variety.

Your lil dude may or may not use the wheel, some gerbils love them and others are indifferent. I’ve found wooden wheels to be loud but the thinner plastic ones are chew hazards. I’m using a silent runner now (not silent spinner!) which, though still plastic, is thicker with a metal base and no exposed axle, and is extremely quiet

Perhaps something like this?

I've seen these metal aquarium cage toppers around and it seems like it might be a good solution. It gives them a lot more space to run around by extending the whole thing upwards and stops them from escaping at the same time.

Personally, I have an Ikea Hacked Detolf cage for my two gerbils that I love. It's just the shelf without the middle put in place and the entire thing turned on its side. I have a metal grate piece I put on top to stop them from escaping. Gives them a HUGE area to run. Not portable, of course.

I would also suggest perhaps looking into getting a second gerbil. Unlike hamsters, they are VERY social. With a little lady buddy, she might be less stressed when you are out so much and may spend less of her day chewing her way out to try and escape.

im not sure if these are too expensive for you??? :o

http://www.amazon.com/Chew-Proof-Sm-High-Rise/dp/B0027J381U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418136144&sr=8-1&keywords=tank+toppers&pebp=1418136151442

http://www.amazon.com/Super-Pet-First-Home-Topper/dp/B0006IUL64/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1418136144&sr=8-2&keywords=tank+toppers

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=17073

or this thing adds like a tubey thing or something.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kaytee-Crittertrail-Tank-Topper-/181585088896?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a47509180 xD

Hamsters are nocturnal, so while you may think she's not using her wheel, she might be using it while you are asleep or away from home. I do hope you get a larger cage for her soon, as that cage is too small to accommodate an appropriately sized wheel. If she truly isn't using a wheel at all, the size of the wheel may be contributing to that.

Syrians should run on a 12 inch wheel. An economic choice is the comfort wheel from Kaytee:

https://smile.amazon.com/Kaytee-Comfort-Exercise-Wheel-Colors/dp/B0010OR008/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2HS8AQ2VOVHJB&keywords=12+inch+comfort+wheel&qid=1562230747&s=gateway&sprefix=12+inch+comfort+%2Caps%2C184&sr=8-1

​

Although it will appear oversized, a 12 inch wheel will prevent your hammy from arching her back, which can cause issues as she ages. Regardless of which wheel you provide, make sure the wheel has a solid running surface, versus the wire wheels.

​

You mentioned being on a tight budget, but if you can save up to afford it, this has been a great cage for my hammies and I think could really improve your hammy's quality of life:

https://smile.amazon.com/Prevue-Pet-Products-528-Universal/dp/B074FH47MQ/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=hamster+cage&qid=1562231054&s=gateway&sr=8-6

32.5. LX 19W is 617.5 square inches it says the dimensions in the discrimination if you scroll to the bottom.

Prevue Pet Products 528 Universal Small Animal Home, Dark Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074FH47MQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fjGEDb58374R5

It's a Kaytee my first home cage for exotic pets, I got it off Amazon actually! They sell it at petco too though if you have any of those in your area!

Here's a link to the amazon page


Edit: forgot to mention, I love this cage so far, it's perfectly sized for my girls to have plenty of room, and fits my tiny apartment well! I'd recommend it for sure.

I currently use the Prevue 528 for my robo and it has plenty of space. https://www.amazon.com/Prevue-Pet-Products-528-Universal/dp/B074FH47MQ

1. Prevue 528 - Over 568 square inches and bar spacing hamsters can’t get through
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074FH47MQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tjUyDbDYQ93X8
   
   
2. 40 gallon breeder tanks can usually be found on local resale apps for $60 and below. This is my current set up.
   
   
3. Bin cages are wonderful can cost as little as $20, just make sure they measure out to above 450 square inches
   
   
4. The only crittertrail cage made large enough for hamsters.
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DXWPG6C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ooUyDb1MN0N2D

This is the cage I'm using for my winter white. I attached wire mesh on the outside to make sure she couldn't escape, but for a Syrian the bar spacing on this will be just fine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074FH47MQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was also looking at this multi level cage. Thoughts?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HX1182I/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=A1KKNI1QDASESA&psc=1

So I'm looking at cage options, the only issue is that I live in New Zealand so the options are super limited. I'm looking at three different options, one wire cage which will cost $50 https://www.thepetcentre.co.nz/small-animal/hutches-%7C-housing/3-lvl-mouse-34.5-x-28-x-64cm-m3/ekom3.aspx
This one from amazon which will cost $80 https://www.amazon.com/Kaytee-CritterTrail-Level-Habitat-Pink/dp/B000HHM6PS/ref=sr_1_25?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1511135504&sr=1-25&keywords=Kaytee+CritterTrail
and this other one from amazon that will cost $220 but looks really good https://www.amazon.com/Ferplast-CAGE-FAVOLA-BLACK-Hamster/dp/B0133LNVAS/ref=sr_1_26?ie=UTF8&qid=1511085761&sr=8-26&keywords=mouse+cage
As they currently only have males at the pet store, I will only be able to get one at this stage (or two if I buy a second cage). I am just wondering if it would be worth spending $200 for just one mouse, or if the $80 and $50 ones will be fine with some adjustments. I spent about $300 on a cage for my rats, so I'm not too worried about the cost. The cheaper options make it a lot easier for me to buy more than one cage, but I'm not sure if I have the space for two cages as I won't be able to put them right next to each other.

p.s I am a sucker for spending too much on my pets, pls help

I started with the Kaytee Multi-Level Exotics Cage. Under $100, large enough for three rats, allows for climbing and different shelf configurations, etc.

Cheaper cages all have some trade-offs. You do have to work to keep this one clean, as the pan is deep and can accumulate ammonia from urine (and the pan is plastic...if your buddies are chewers you'll want to keep an eye on the corners). The doors are small and because of this, you'll need to break the cage down each time you clean it (not terrible, but a little time consuming).

Seriously, though, I'd save up for a few more weeks if possible and find a Critter Nation. I use a single for Ziggy and Tim (before, it held the three guys from my first mischief) and it's so much easier to clean (the doors are huge and allow you to reach in), so much more well-engineered, and spacious.

https://www.amazon.com/Prevue-Pet-Products-528-Universal/dp/B074FH47MQ

THIS is the exact cage!

My starter cage was perfect for 2 rats, its $50 and looks a lot bigger than the other one commented. https://www.amazon.com/Levels-Ferret-Chinchilla-Glider-HeightBlack/dp/B00HX1182I/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1523934482&sr=1-1&keywords=3+levels+chinchilla

Like this?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HX1182I/ref=psdcmw_2975537011_t1_B003SZSZM4

i found the cage on amazon the wheel is 7.5 inches lol

Prevue has some kinda knock-off CNs. Not quite the same, but clearly trying to inch into that same market, and undercut with lower quality product. Yaheetech has several doing similar.

Currenlty using [this] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TKRYKC/ref=twister_B01M5DBGLS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1), budget in the $80-120 range, but 120 is kinda pushing it.

yeah its actually this cage here - at one point in the description it read it was for rats as well but has since been taken down :d - I got this about a month ago and the spacing between the bars is only like a 16th of an inch wider on the very outside bars and she knows that and I guess its just enough to let her through lol - so now im gonna have to get some smaller mesh stuff and wire over the whole cage I guess :/ I chose this cage because If I wanted to add another level to it later, it would be super easy - still a nice cage, maybe if I can fatten em up a little more she wont be able to make it through :)

Every pet store around me recommends this for 3-4 ferrets

https://www.amazon.com/MidWest-181-Ferret-Nation-Single-Level/dp/B0054U8UGW/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1457629954&sr=1-4&keywords=ferret%2Bnation%2Bcage&th=1&psc=1

1. It depends on the person, I don’t think they smell too bad but my friend hates the smell of them. They just smell a bit musky. Feed them a good diet and clean their cage everyday and it’ll keep the smell down.
   How big is the apartment? Is their enough room for a cage like this- https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0054U8UGW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OcmSCb4PNDRJP
   You’ll want a cage similar to this, there are some cheaper ones around.
   
   
2. How big is the room? They don’t need a huge space but they do like to run and jump around, they also like to explore. So as long as there’s enough space for some toys and tunnels for them, they should be happy. Also you should get at least 2 ferrets as they are social animals and need a friend.
   
   
3. They can be quite expensive, food can be a little pricey for the better quality stuff. You can try and litter train them and buy cat litter for them. You’ll also need blankets for them if you choose to use fleece for bedding.
   You should also keep back money for emergency vet visits, they can be expensive.
   
   
4. Ideally they need to be out at least 4/5 hours a day. They also spend a lot of the day sleeping so it should be fine, as long as you let them out when you get back and maybe in the morning before you leave.
   
   I’m probably leaving a lot of stuff out so if you have any questions, feel free to ask :) I can suggest certain cages, toys, litter and so on...

14 Rats is a tall order. I'd guess the smallest possible size for that many would be a Critter Nation triple; essentially a Critter Nation Double with another add-on floor on top of it, creating 3 floors in total. That would be pretty cramped for that many rats, so for a comfortable living space, I'd just recommend two Double Critter Nations.

Use this cage calculator if you're in doubt!

Hey! I've owned several rabbits for the past 5/6 years.

The other commenter covered a lot of things already, but I'd like to add that having a rabbit health kit is extremely important. Since rabbits are considered exotic and require a knowledgeable vet, it can be hard to get them in right away if they are having an emergency, so its always best to be prepared. Their digestive system is very fragile, and they can easily have blockages if they aren't eating enough hay or if they happen to get into something.
I suggest keeping some bene-bac on hand just in case.

Litter training can be hit or miss. Some rabbits will naturally want to go in one corner, while others tend to mark their entire enclosure. Spaying and neutering can help a lot, but it isn't a complete guarantee that they will become litter trained. My rabbit is neutered and mostly uses the box, but will occasionally leave poops elsewhere just because he feels like it.

While on the subject of litter, I highly suggest using wood stove pellets. You can get them at a hardware store for $5 for a huge bag. They're odorless and untreated so they're safe for rabbits. If you decide to go for a commercial rabbit litter I would stay away from anything with corn in it, because if your rabbit decides to eat it, it could easily cause a blockage and be fatal.

Also, stay away from foods that have a lot of corn and other fillers in it. I use Oxbow because they have a lot of high quality feed and treat options.

Feel free to PM me if you ever have questions. I love rabbits and always like to help. :)

Edit: I forgot to mention, this is the cage I use (as well as an x-pen around it). Its absolutely massive and much cheaper than anything you'd find at a pet store. Definitely recommend it.

I'm really happy with the cage my "little" guy is in, Extra Large Living World cage! Its the largest indoor cage I could find at the time, worked out perfect for my Mini Rex at his full adult size:

https://www.amazon.com/Living-World-Deluxe-Habitat-X-Large/dp/B007BNE1YA

.1. Very young, probably a lionhead. A good rabbit-savvy vet will be able to give you a better age approximation. Check out the wiki for help picking out a good vet.

.2. It's likely that he's not old enough to potty train yet. When he is, check out the wiki for litter training advice. You will need a litter box (a medium cat one works well) and some rabbit-safe litter. I use Oxbow Eco-straw which can be ordered online from Amazon and most pet store websites. The easiest way to litter train a rabbit is to place the litter pan in the location they seem to pee most frequently. Then pick up stray poops/pee and put it in the litterbox and make sure to clean the other areas with white vinegar. If your rabbit chooses a different location to use the toilet, you are best off just moving the litterbox to that location. It's very difficult to get them to change their mind. Neutering will also help with litter habits once he's old enough.

Many rabbits "binky" when they are happy, but some do not. I generally consider a rabbit to be happy if they seem relaxed and unafraid. Some signs of this are exploring, telescoping (standing on hind legs), lying down in a "flopped" position (some rabbits flop all the way onto their sides, others prefer to lie on their bellies with their back legs sticking out). Some rabbits also express happiness by running around very fast.

Best to check out the wiki for instructions on picking up. Generally this should be avoided, but there are plenty of times where it's necessary.

You're unlikely to have much luck with a leash or harness. The rabbits that do well on these are the exception not the rule, but many rabbitors here are successful. I'd probably wait until he reaches adulthood for this though.

There are a lot of options for cages. I recommend this one for a single rabbit. While it's nice that some people can let their rabbits roam free, it's very difficult to 100% rabbit-proof. Do remember that they need plenty of time to run around and exercise. You wouldn't want to spend all day every day in your room and never come out, so make sure your bun gets to leave his. A big cage like this one is just fine though for when you are asleep or at school/work/etc. and can't be around to supervise.

.3. Do your research on the wiki, diet is very important, so is vet. This is my go-to hay supplier. I'd recommend starting with the sampler, then buying the larger boxes to save $$$. Also I see you've taken him outside for some grass. Be very careful to 1. watch out for hawks and other predators, never leave him unattended even for a minute and 2. don't let him eat anything that's been treated with pesticides or other stuff like that, could be very harmful.

Lastly, rabbits are very fragile animals. A lot of people on this sub jump to point out issues they see in pictures or questions because a lot of the time what seems like a little thing can be a very big problem for a rabbit. One good example is overfeeding of sweets. A rabbit can get sick and die from something as simple as eating too much carrot one night. So please, please, please, read up on stuff, do research, and if you aren't sure, ask or check for multiple good sources.

Ah, thank you for all this information! I appreciate it.

To answer your questions:

1. I try to brush her every other day, but I increase that to every day if I find she's shedding a lot. In light of her GI issues, I also tend to spend time carefully removing matted fur from her underside where it's harder for her to clean.
   
   
2. This may be a contributing factor, as I usually give her 1/2 cup of pellet food a day and her hay is fed to her through a trough on the side of her cage. It takes her about 2 days to go through the hay trough. I always refill it as soon as its empty. Sometimes she prefers to take the hay out to use as bedding around her cage, as well (I line the bottom of her cage with a soft towel/blanket, as the bottom of the cage is just plastic).
   
   Thank you for the lists, as well! I'm always looking for new foods that she might like. I heard kale was a rabbit's favorite, so I've been giving her that for a while now.
   
   I never knew about baby gas drops either, very good information to have! I still have her syringes from when she had severe GI stasis around in case I ever need them again.
   
   Her cage is the store bought, I bought the biggest I could find, which ended up being this. I removed the plastic insert with the stairs and made her a new hideaway in the cage that makes better use of space. My plan is to attach a dog play-pen sort of set up to the outside of the cage to expand her space, I've just been hemming and hawing over how best to get the set up working. Eventually I'd like to have a "bun room" that is all hers, but being in a studio for now if I can get a pen set up working for her I think she'll enjoy that.
   
   Right now I'm working remotely most days of the week, so she gets a lot of time during the day to be out of her cage, and I try to ensure that she has that!
   
   Thank you again for the advice!

Thanks! I’ve looked up a few larger areas to get her. Found one that has about twice as much space. Would that be alright?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007BNE1YA/ref=asc_df_B007BNE1YA5416104/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B007BNE1YA&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167159405462&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18051810099080647553&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9016254&hvtargid=pla-465707178872

Kaytee My First Home Multi-Level Habitat for Exotics, 30.5” x 18” x 30” https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CETSHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PDz5BbPER32QC

This cage is fantastic and very affordable. My 4 rats fit in one happily though I bought a second one that I’m going to modify to connect them together.

Thanks so much for your great response. I wish I've would seen it earlier. I just ordered this cage for a 10 gallon aquarium. I hope they do well in this habitat. I will take care of the guys, if I feel they are unhappy, I will expand their home. Again, thanks.

A 20 gallon long aquarium at minimum is what I saw as the cheapest&easiest way to go (bin cages are hard work and not as aesthetically pleasing to me).

On amazon, though, I think this is the only cage I've lusted after that could maybe work but its pricey http://www.amazon.com/Lixit-Animal-Care-Hamster-Heaven/dp/B003QRPAR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462223106&sr=8-1&keywords=lixit+hamster+cage

^Also depends on the hamster's size. I have seen some massive syrian hamsters in pet stores, while mine was much smaller (but grew out of her 6" wheel pretty quickly so add in some growth as you decide and when you consider wheel size). I was always worried that the tubes would be too small for my syrian and she'd get stuck XD For a syrian it's usually 8" wheel minimum, though as I said some are larger and really need that 10" or 11" wheel.

A last comment is that a hamster is not a great pet for a four year old. They're crepuscular but seem to be mostlyy active at night in my experience. And they are fragile creatures. They can overstrain and basically break their back like rabbits. With that in mind, I would hope that this is mostly your/the adult's pet that the four year old can hopefully somewhat enjoy and participate with care

edit: just saw the shipping on that cage on amazon wow haha here's free shipping at ebay though http://www.ebay.com/itm/Metro-Cage-Lixit-Hamster-and-Mouse-critter-cage-Hamster-Heaven-Brand-New-/222087857216?hash=item33b577c440:g:Yq8AAOSwhDdXEQ6E

https://www.amazon.ca/Lixit-Animal-Care-Hamster-Heaven/dp/B003QRPAR2

Thanks for the advise, but she used to LOVE her ball.

The only thing we have changed is getting another hamster, but they're kept in totally different cages, opposite ends of the room (about 15 foot apart), and use different balls and are out at different times so they don't bang into each other.

And before questions are asked, the other hamster's eyes are absolutely fine.

Both hamsters are female golden syrians, the older one, with the eye problem is 7 month, the younger one without any problems is 16 weeks.

The vet normally takes about 3-4 minutes to get too but you have to book an appointment and one is not always available, and her eye can "calm down" within a minute of her cleaning herself or within 15 minutes, it depends, which is why a check-up at the vet is impractical, as it costs £15 to get her seen too, even if her eye is fine at the time or not, they could turn around and say literally "She's fine" and charge you, even if it took 10 seconds to see her.

We don't normally see her run in her wheel very often, my guess is that she does it during the night, but we have saw her once or twice and she certainly runs flat, no bending of the back.

Her cage is the biggest cage on the market so space isn't a problem at all.

Her cage: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003QRPAR2

Here are some photos, sorry if they aren't good enough as she kept moving but its better than nothing.

http://s12.postimage.org/52k8219r1/IMAG0033.jpg
http://s12.postimage.org/3osl6qahp/IMAG0035.jpg

She normally spends anywhere from 15 minutes, half an hour to an hour, we let her roam around the whole house, no other animals are in the house apart from the other Syrian hamster which we get out at different times.

Hey guys. Thought I'd do an update. :) http://www.amazon.com/Kaytee-First-Home-Habitat-12-Inch/dp/B00CETSQ74 Got this home for now (from petco) as they are still little babies. It was the only home designed for rats available in my area. I plan on using this as a travel cage in the future. Anyways, I will order a nice cage for them shortly such as these ones for when they are adults.

http://www.amazon.com/Ware-Manufacturing-Proof-4-Story-Hamster/dp/B003SZSZM4/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1411787997&sr=1-1&keywords=rat+cage

http://www.petco.com/product/106171/Petco-Rat-Manor-Habitat.aspx?cm_mmc=bazaarvoice-_-RLP-_-106171-_-productname_link

http://www.amazon.com/Kaytee-Habitat-Multi-Level-Exotics-18-Inch/dp/B00CETSHN2/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1411787997&sr=1-4&keywords=rat+cage

I’m not too savvy with reddit but

here’s the amazon link to the cage

Thanks. It says that it would be fine for 3 rats IF it were about 2 inches wider :/ Though I am guessing that by "depth" they mean width? I am not good with measurements.

I have two girls who are pretty small and are temporarily living in this cage:
http://www.amazon.com/Ware-Manufacturing-Proof-4-Story-Hamster/dp/B003SZSZM4/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1332317228&sr=1-1-catcorr

The first home I had for them broke and I was able to get this for $11. I'm saving up for a new cage but not sure what would be good to set as my goal for them. Someone in my area is selling the cage I linked to & I would be able to buy it now and I do live in the dorms so I cannot have a huge cage (I have to sneak them in and out every couple of weekends and have a small room). They get a lot of free time too but I don't want to invest in a bigger cage if it isn't worth it for them.

Hi! We use the Ware Manufacturing 4 story chew proof hamster cage for traveling with my 3 girls. I buckle it into my back seat. I take the shelving out and fill it with layers of hammocks and put fleece down on the bottom, that way they don't push bedding all over the car. Our water bottles hook right onto it and it allows plenty of airflow compared to the small animal carriers I've seen.

Best of luck/Safe travels!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003SZSZM4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xeTOzb3AHVBGD

Do you think my cage is big enough? This is the cage we ordered but i feel like it wont be big enough for two rats, maybe now because they're small but idk if we'd have to get another to facilitate two rats, im on board for getting another but my gf isnt too keen, im sure i could convince her

1. he has too blue dots behind his ears so i think so
   2)I was never given a DOT certificate.
   3)He is not vaccinated and has never been sick or showed any symptoms of being sick
   
2. He eats "Grain free, Zupreme Ferret Diet"
   5)He goes to the bathroom in only 3 corners, and ive trained him to not use a few corners that he used to use, took about 1-1 1/2 weeks to do so but wasnt too hard. He will nip feet if your wearing socks, i think b/c i made the mistake of using socks to play with him. If hes duking and u go to pet him he will nip but very very lightly (like so lightly sometimes i dont even realize) and immediately let go when he realizes its a hand/part of a human
   6)I have never found a treat type he likes, even since he was a few months old he never seemed to interested in the treats i bought.
   7)I have a squeaky toy that he goes crazy over and will come sprinting across the room to get too it's a great way to call him to you. And sock/sock like things he loves.
   8)http://www.amazon.com/Ware-Manufacturing-Plastic-Sweet-28-Inch/dp/B003TKRYKC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1463023933&sr=8-3&keywords=cage this is the cage he has but the only time he's in it is when i have to clean the room he lives in (like vacuum or move stuff) or when i have to transport him somewhere. He doesnt mind if you put him in he'll try to get out for 3mins then just curl up into his hammock and sleep :)
   
   
   PIC: http://imgur.com/UgFBqpz This is the best pic i have of him right now i'll keep looking and if i find any others ill post them
   

I actually got the cage used. But! This is it basically: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003TKRYKC/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1493687394&sr=8-9&keywords=guinea+pig+cages

I like how big it is so the hammy has room to roam.

Not to be a jerk, but on the subreddit information bar there is the 'care' section with Basic Care, Example Cages, Diet Basics, and Commercial Food Discussion that should get you started.

You'll want to read through What to expect from your hedgehog and ask your breeder what they use/recommend and where they get it from. If you're going through a pet store you'll likely get little to no information worth having.

For a basic run-down I'd recommend:

• Non-Pill Fleece
  
  
• A safe cage or Plastic Tote of pretty decent size (discard the lid).
  
  
• A food and water dish Some prefer water bottles, DO NOT GET A SPRING-LOADED BALL STYLE WATER BOTTLE! If you're not sure if it's spring loaded, tilt it back. If the ball rolls down the tube you're good to go.
  
  
• A solid wheel
  
  
• Heat management with Thermostat
  
  
• and an Igloo or other hidey-hole home.
  
  Please note that these are bare minimums and are the easiest to find, but not necessarily the best options. You might find your hedgie is an explorer and needs a bit more room, or you want to litter train your hedgie and you'll need some litter and a corner pan (please read up as hedgies have their own requirements for litter). You might find your hedgie is a runner and needs a Carolina Storm Wheel. Maybe your hedgie is a digger and fleece isn't going to work out (diggers tend to wreck their cages and flip food bowls if you're using fleece liners). You'll need treats, food, and make sure you have a vet that works with hedgehogs within an acceptable driving distance.
  
  For my hedgie's room in the winter I use something like this. So I can make sure the room stays at 72 at all times.
  
  Best of luck to you and your new hedgie. Once you get everything set up they're pretty low-maintenance, but if you don't start out right you'll risk your pet's health in the long run.

Wow those are some lucky weasels!! Well, one thing I saw on amazon was a scatter-guard for the cage.. might help with the food not getting outside the cage, and mine tend to eat the food that lands inside the cage. I don't have a scatter guard, so I can't testify as to its effectiveness, but might be worth a try?

Mine too. I've seen that they sell guards on amazon but I don't know how good they work.

Hello!

1. I'm also allergic to cats, and Ferrets only set off my allergies a little bit (I think it's mostly because they tend to like dusty places, like under furniture, and I'm also allergic to dust) but not enough that I can't have them.
   
2. Yep! Ferrets are pretty good at adapting to your schedule--I work nights, so mine come out in the afternoon before work at at 2am when I get home and are content.
   
3. Large cages are good! I have a Ferret Nation two story cage (https://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Homes-Pets-Ferret-Nation/dp/B0054U8UGW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1469055507&sr=1-1&keywords=ferret+nation) and I love it--easy to clean, plenty of space, and you can make covers for the shelves (or buy them from ferret people!)
   
   Other advice:
   -See if there's a ferret shelter near you and go visit! It's a great way to learn more and make sure ferrets are right for you.
   
   -Ferrets should see the vet once a year and be vaccinated, so see if there are good ferret vets in your area. Vet bills can also add up (where I live, it's about $70 for the appointment and $25 for vaccination), especially since they may need emergency appointments or suprelorin implants later in life--it tends to add up.
   
   -Ferrets are not like cats and dogs--their temperament and care is a lot different, so definitely make sure you enjoy their quirks before taking one home.
   
   -Ferrets are poop machines, and they get into everything. They're great animals, but they also tend to be (lovable) troublemakers :)
   
   Good luck!

This is the gold standard of ferret cages, for the reason that it's really easy to open/clean, and provides enough space for 2 critters! I don't have this cage, but I plan to get it in the near future.

​

https://www.amazon.ca/MidWest-182-leak-Proof-Shelves-Measures/dp/B0054U8UGW/ref=asc_df_B0054U8UGW/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292953562927&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6610477494864731789&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001365&hvtargid=pla-571164129721&psc=1

The cage is just a now-somewhat-ubiquitous Ferret Nation two-level cage with an additional shelf installed.

We use the 2 story Ferret Nation cages from MidWest

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054U8UGW/ref=psdc_2975537011_t2_B000QFMYWQ

We made some felt "pillow cases" that pull over the pans, to make it a bit more comfy for them and it makes cleaning fairly easy as well.

They moved into this from a set of KayTee cages they came with, and they seem to like it. I'd definitely recommend getting the exit ramp for it as well. Watching a ferret belly slide down it to the floor cracks me up every time.

Two story ferret nation on sale now for $162 4hrs left Ferret Nation Habitat / Cage, Double Unit

This is the cage I have.


https://www.amazon.com/MidWest-182-leak-Proof-Shelves-Measures/dp/B0054U8UGW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521215258&sr=8-3&keywords=ferret+nation+cage&dpID=51iPQNiSSnL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch


It's great for my ferrets. They have plenty of room to stretch out. It's very easy to clean and move around.

Sorry kept calling it ferret nation. It’s Midwest but for ferrets.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0054U8UGW/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It looks like either a Midwest Critter Nation (double unit) or a Midwest Ferret Nation (double unit). I have had both and they are great cages but I recommend the Ferret Nation over the Critter Nation as the wire gauge is thicker and less prone to breaking.

I have a non-skyscraper version of this cage, by Critter Nation. I believe it's just identified as a double (unit) cage. Here is the link for the Amazon listing of one here in the US.

Try a ferret nation or critter nation. I’ve seen those work well for injured and disabled birds.

You can take out any of the shelves and ramps easily.

https://www.amazon.com/MidWest-Critter-163-leak-Proof-Compatible/dp/B00551LBUW/ref=asc_df_B00551LBUW/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167140054045&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6692879469740918855&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012028&hvtargid=pla-274108454803&psc=1

You can buy an add-on to make it a Triple Critter Nation! It stands six feet tall. This doesn't answer your question, but it's good to know expansion options if you really want to make a spacious home.

Midwest Deluxe Critter Nation Add-On Unit Small Animal Cage (Model 163) Includes 1 Leak-Proof Pan, 1 Shelf, 1 Ramp w/Ramp Cover. Compatible w/Critter Nation Models 161 & 162 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00551LBUW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SWd0DbKVTK5N8

UPDATEEEE: I have decided on two ferrets. I know things like they are not cage pets, they should be let out at least 4 hours, they are strict carnivores and I am keeping them in the Little Friends Blienheim cage: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Little-Friends-Blenheim-Extra-Accessories/dp/B005CAYUKY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524748320&sr=8-2&keywords=little+friends+blenheim+extra+tall+rat+cage

Any other tips would be appreciated please.

If you’re looking for a new one and have the room, I definitely recommend this one :
chinchilla cage

It’s the one I have for mine and they absolutely love it, and doesn’t make too much noise. Also the shelves can be moved around for different styles, and we’ve added a load of other wooden ones for them too, plus it’s a great size for them to jump onto different levels!

I don't think this is the original manufacturer but you can try calling them and asking these guys --> little pet warehouse they might be able to give you them.

Also found it from the original manufacturer here on amazon but I'm not sure how to contact them from there

We had never dreamed of owning a chinchilla before we did. A family friend asked us to look after theirs whilst on holiday and we grew attached to him. They didn't pay him much attention and didn't want him back so we snapped their hand off

The cage they have us was very small and cramped so we got him this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/Little-Friends-Blenheim-Extra-Accessories/dp/B005CAYUKY?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

You should let him out regularly to run around the room. They are lightning fast, can jump high and have very inquisitive personalities so you might want to 'chinchilla proof' anything you don't want them to get at - we have a sideboard that he managed to climb up the back of and get stuck so now have to cover any gaps but you'll soon learn as you go. They love to chew so be prepared for that.

Otherwise, like I say, you'll pick things up as you go. I'm not really a massive animal person but love our chinchilla, they're not really cuddly animals that you can pick up and handle but have so much personality.

This is the cage, we got it in white:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B005CAYUKY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549872653&sr=8-3&keywords=chinchilla+cage

Not a fan of the plastic but they haven't chewed it yet, if I see signs of it going to buy wooden ledges for them. It's a great size cage though!

This one i think

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007BNE1YA/ref=twister_B005BPQA44?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

He is using this cage: https://www.amazon.com/Living-World-Deluxe-Habitat-X-Large/dp/B007BNE1YA/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1537877565&sr=1-5&keywords=rabbit+cage

Litterbox in one end with the water bottle, and a different hay holder that goes inside the cage. The food bowl is also moved to the litterbox when i feed him. I move him to the litterbox when he lifts his tail when I can. He usually pees when I am outside of the room though. When he does go in the litterbox he gets rewarded too. I cant seem to tell if he is pooping in the litterbox as he does it though, he lifts his tail to pee and not to poop. I have a dog in the house as well. The rabbit loves her, but as of right now I keep them separated with the rabbit being in my bedroom, and I always keep the door closed. I limit his outside the cage time to about 2 hours a day.

Sure my pleasure :)

You can go with a cage, but I truly this a dog crate is a much better solution - cheaper and accomplishes the same thing without being tiny...

If you must get a cage maybe below:

https://www.chewy.com/midwest-wabbitat-rabbit-home-37-in/dp/131315?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=hg&utm_content=MidWest&utm_term=&gclid=Cj0KCQiAnY_jBRDdARIsAIEqpJ1U3UhMSrE9CPr5cjQx6RJ1UvnRFgXR6ny5kyYo4RoXsWLcWomUSwIaAhFqEALw_wcB

https://www.amazon.com/Living-World-Deluxe-Habitat-X-Large/dp/B007BNE1YA/ref=asc_df_B007BNE1YA/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167159405462&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8046859412863397411&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001880&hvtargid=pla-465707178872&psc=1

https://www.chewy.com/midwest-wabbitat-deluxe-rabbit-home/dp/183474?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=hg&utm_content=MidWest&utm_term=&gclid=Cj0KCQiAnY_jBRDdARIsAIEqpJ0lZ2hm36yHocJwKwGUTgzpbZek5F9213kZKoB-AI-ObQCl8W8bR_kaAjU3EALw_wcB

http://www.petwerks.com/condos.aspx

This or this from amazon are good options.

Would this one from Amazon work? I'd probably not use the ramp and just have the shelf in as a hiding place.

largest one i can across this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007BNE1YA/ and that is very close to what I have already. What is c&c cage?

Ha, I know everything cool is over in the UK!
I live in MA :)

The key to this cage is to have hammocks in case they do fall. Other than that I love it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CETSHN2/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I also have this one for my other syrian

http://www.amazon.com/Living-World-63855-Ferret-Habitat/dp/B007D55BGS/ref=sr_1_86?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1396258732&sr=1-86&keywords=ferret+cage

Instead of the ramp for that one I use http://c1.wag.com/images/products/p/sup/sup-072_1z.jpg for the stairs.

My Syrian hamster has been very happy in this cage for the entire first year of his life so far. After a few days of exploratory climbing he has not once chewed on his bars or ever acted stressed because he wants out of his home.

30.5 x 8.5 x 18.5 inches:
http://www.amazon.com/Kaytee-Habitat-Multi-Level-Exotics-18-Inch/dp/B00CETSHN2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Excersize:
I recommend purchasing a Wodent Wheel 11inch http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JD8I2Y/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687462&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B005Y41UPQ&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1JBB5ENE1BEBPRFYR6JR

and Flying Saucer 12 inches : http://www.amazon.com/Ware-Flying-Saucer-Exercise-4-Inch/dp/B001AT62H0/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1462212985&sr=1-1-fkmr1&keywords=flying+saucer+hamster+11+inch

Bathing and Natural Nail Trimming:
Also pick up some flat Reptile Rocks for underneath his water bottle so he will trim his nails naturally and a large ceramic bowl (needs to be deep not so much wide) filled with Repti Sand Desert White (No Calcium) http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiSand%C2%AE-Pounds-Desert/dp/B0002DIZKC/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1462213181&sr=1-1&keywords=desert+white+repti+sand

My hamster is a fan of these Apple Orchard sticks for teeth filing though his lab blocks are semi hard and also good for dental health trimming.
http://www.amazon.com/SuperPet-Apple-Orchard-Sticks-Pieces/dp/B001CCXMP0/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1462213890&sr=1-2&keywords=apple+wood+sticks

After you get those things pick up this item as a natural grass burrow for him to sleep in and clean his cage once every week. Plastic burrow are just awful for air circulation, and my hamster never liked them at all when i didnt know any better.

http://www.amazon.com/Ware-Nature-Willow-Grass-Small/dp/B001ATBMCU?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00

For food I feed my hamster Higgins Sunburst and Kaytee Forti Diet Lab blocks everyday with fresh fruit and veggies every two days. Remember your hamster stomach is the size of your pinky finger nail so portion small. He loves 3-4 lab blocks a day with a small spoonful of nuts, seeds and fruit from the Higgins. Remember though 3 Sunflower Seeds max a day or they will get fat and unhealthy.

http://www.amazon.com/Higgins-Sunburst-Gourmet-Hamsters-Gerbils/dp/B009GHII5W/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1462213536&sr=1-1&keywords=higgins+sunburst

Looks like this but for Hamster not rat and mice:
http://www.amazon.com/Kaytee-Forti-Health-Mouse-5-Pound/dp/B001VJ56Z8/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1462213507&sr=1-1&keywords=kaytee+forti+hamster

For bedding you want UNSCENTED (it messes with their respiratory system if its scented) this Kaytee Clean and Cozy is what I use. Absorbs liquid good and keeps the smell down if its close to cleaning day.

http://www.amazon.com/Kaytee-Clean-Cozy-Small-Bedding/dp/B015MJB8PO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462214215&sr=1-2&keywords=kaytee+bedding

and last but not least. Buy TWO water bottles in case one of them jams overnight you DO NOT want your hamster to suffer from dehydration. They do not need much water, but when they need it, they need it fast or will get sick quick. The kaytee water bottles have issues with the spout pointing straight so buyer beware. They often dont align properly into the cage bars. But they do work and dont leak for me. Stick with GLASS water bottles, it just tastes better honestly. 6 ounces if you will change the water daily. 12 ounces if you are not as attentive.

http://www.amazon.com/Kaytee-SSR61982-Animal-Bottle-12-Ounce/dp/B007TUNWM2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1462214981&sr=8-4&keywords=kaytee+water+bottle

It seems like a lot of money at first and it is but this hamster will be your new furry friend and relies on only you to care for it, so give it the best and longest life possible. You will have one happy hamster if you get all that and will never need to upgrade anything when your Syrian grows bigger.

the cage that she has in this picture can be found here.
recently, i got her a new cage, which is much bigger than her old one. this is her new cage.

Cuties! And congrats on the new cage. Hopefully none of your ladies are nibblers. One of my girls chewed through a rat cage with a plastic bottom! It was this this cage.

Yup! This is the exact cage we have:
http://www.amazon.com/Super-Pet-Deluxe-Multi-Level-Casters/dp/B000CMHWZC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1324010884&sr=8-1
it is great for them to jump around in. I have since added more hammocks and play toys.

i was looking at this cage online. this one would work but i do like this option a little bit more than the others. i’m just afraid of getting the second one and it be smaller or i won’t be able to fit their wheel in it.

I wouldn't house rats on wire flooring in any part of the cage unless you plan to cover it somehow. Over time walking on wires is bad for their feet and can cause painful deformity. I have this cage and it is plenty tall enough for them to be happy as well as a deep tray to avoid messy shavings. Plus it has multiple doors, and for a tall cage on casters it's a good price. I bought it on sale for $80 and I suspect Amazon will put it on sale again eventually. However, the bar spacing is a little wide for my 3 month old babies and I'm going to have to wrap it in mesh for a couple months until they are full grown.

This is the cage I was planning on getting.

I posted asking the same thing not long ago. If you're willing to spend 100+ (the first two are both over that) then you might as well get a Critter Nation cage, they look really well put together. Here's the one I was interested in

If you want to save money, someone told me the last one works well too (It's what I've decided to get in the near future) But you have to cover the wire flooring with fleece or something to protect their feet, cause walking on bars hurts rats' feet. Just be aware that quite a few people have complained about it being hard to put together/coming bent.

Also, make sure you get at least two rats, they're pretty social and need a buddy to interact with when you're not around/sleeping.

Is this the one you mean?
http://www.amazon.com/MidWest-Critter-Nation-Animal-Habitat/dp/B001NJ0DAE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462292942&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=critter+nation&psc=1

If you are going to use a multi level cage please make sure every ledge he could walk off of (including edges of stairs) has a small wall, their eyesight isn’t the best and they often fall and I’m sure nobody would like him to get hurt.

Depending on what you want, CritterNations has a nice two level wire cage, I’ve seen this used by many people, here’s an Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/MidWest-Critter-161-Leak-Proof-Measures/dp/B001NJ0DAE/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=cage+for+guinea+pigs&qid=1573865387&sprefix=cage+for+&sr=8-8

These cages are kind of an investment, but I really like them. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NJ0DAE/ref=twister_B001NJ0DBI?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

These are the exact cages we have. The two story and the single story. I don't know if they are any good for birds or not, we had pet rats.

We have two of those cages - and only one bottom between them after Margarat chewed an escape tunnel in the first one. We got a dual Critter Nation (non-affiliate Amazon link) for Xmas, but we really liked the All Living Things cages and keep them as a backup.

As for names ... For cuteness how about Wheezer and Spud? For eccentricity, I am thinking Attentive or Vigil, and Atlantis or Endeavor. Hmm ... No, no. Ooh, how about Copernicus and Galileo?

Critter nation is that cage, the doors are the entire front of the cage. Comes in a single and double story.

https://www.amazon.com/MidWest-Critter-Nation-Animal-Habitat/dp/B001NJ0DAY

No problem! Midwest Deluxe Critter Nation We’ve modified it quite a bit.

The material is no-pill fleece we got from a fabric store and cut to fit. We use dog pee pads under the fleece for extra absorbency.

is this cage ok for 3 rats? (the one level) also i found this cage for way less money and they both look exactly the same. is there a difference between critter and ferret nation?

Here is the Amazon link. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NJ0DAY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TfPUAbRHSWJEN#immersive-view_1522176515846

We are just missing the ramps we just plan on making some.

We got it for free so that's why we didn't complain they ramps were missing.

How much?

I have this for my three girls

They either love sleeping on the top in their hammocks or on the bottom in the igloo, that one looks like you can throw more hammocks and hanging things in there vs mine

I went with the aspen shavings for bedding and wound up getting [this cage for them] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NJ0DAY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I figured since they'll be in it forever I should spend a bit more on it.

it has two floors but there is a pan and floor with a cutout in a corner that leads between floors. i have the pan positioned to blobk the hole so my chins will be seperated. my girl attacks the boy on site. we bought him after our old boy died of pnumonia cause she looked sad. tried all the introduction method stuff but she hates him so they needed to be seperated.

here is the cage.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NJ0DAY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm looking to make non-porus replacement floors/trays for my DCN animal cage [ https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001NJ0DAY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503473468&sr=8-1&keywords=critter+nation+double+unit ] for the two large bottom floors (the very most bottom and the bottom of the upper unit).

I was thinking of using something like tile, but I'm not sure if I could get something to the right dimensions? especially with the cut out on the middle level needed to let the animals pass from one floor to the other

any ideas?

Would you say that this cage is a decent size for 2 guinea pigs?

If you get the Plus version, which is $49 instead of $36, it comes with a top that is made of the same stuff the sides are made of, so it would be very dog proof. http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Interactive-Guinea-Habitat-Plus/dp/B001NJ0DQ8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1371565142&sr=8-3&keywords=Western+guinea+pig

Cool so the bottom part of the Trixie cage is about 8.9ft^2 with another 4ft^2 inside the upper level. This may be the perfect solution for the space I have.

I use to have one of these, but it was unwieldy and the canvas got gross in their "preferred corner". This paired with some fleeces and a water proof layer under the bottom would work great.

Thanks for sharing.

I really really like the habitat that i bought my pig:
http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Interactive-Guinea-Habitat-Plus/dp/B001NJ0DQ8

i just took the kitchen part out and have fleece for her so she isn't just walking on canvas. It's cheap and large for a single pig. Your pig will be much happier being able to run around her cage. Plus if you wanted to get another pig, you can buy another one of these cages because they connect together! They they have a ton of room, or if they fight a lot you can make a little barrier so that they can still see each other but not fight.

If you're unable to build a C&C for whatever reason (not necessarily you, but I know not everyone has the time or skills to build a cage from scratch), check out Midwest Habitats.

Edit: words

[This](Guinea Habitat Plus Guinea Habitat Plus https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NJ0DQ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MQ1zybX8T2Z3T) is my favorite cage. It's very easy to set up and you can add extra units if you want.

I have used this cage from Amazon. The one I had did not have the top cage portion. My two pigs loved to run in it and it kept them contained.
https://www.amazon.com/Guinea-Habitat-Plus/dp/B001NJ0DQ8

If you have a Prime membership for the free shipping, they're pretty cheap on Amazon (Midwest Guinea Habitat Plus). Mine were $34 each. I love these cages, but they are sort of.. flimsy? Not any less so than a C&C cage, but I don't feel like the top would keep out a determined dog or cat.

haha, the smaller guy in the photo is actually named Scooby. I put together two of these, but had to temporarily use cardboard for the back wall because the hooks on a couple of the panels were welded shut. Had to cut the corners on the tarps at the middle so they could lay flat and overlap. For bedding I got two towels and put fleece over them. The tunnel and the grass balls are here and here.

This is the cage I had in mind.

How about something like this?

I like the Martin 680, but after shipping, they're about the same price, and this one APPEARS to be more cage for the money. I'd have to put something on the floor, since from what I understand, a mesh floor is bad for rat feet.

Howdy! First off, let me thank you for doing research before you pick up your rodent friend.

First off let me get the disclaimers out of the way: If you were looking for a cheap pet, you have chosen the wrong animal. Rats have a fairly high upfront cost that begins to taper down after the first 3 months or so once the major growth period is over with. Almost any attempt to cut costs on things I'll bring up as essentials is most likely going to end up as a bad move in terms of your pet's health. There are lots of places to save some money, but what I'll lay out here is not the place. Rats are also a very short lived pet. They will live for a reasonable maximum of 3 years, so there will be heartbreak down the road.

Still interested? Good. Let's get a list going then:

1. Rats must be kept in a group. A pair is the minimum, three or more is better. Rats are VERY social animals, and need near constant interaction for other rats to stay healthy. This isn't just about mental health either; a lone rat is more prone to infections, tumors, and mental disabilities including aggression. Keeping multiple rats is no more expensive than keeping a single rat.
   
   
2. When looking for a cage, aim for 2 sq. feet per rat. Use this cage calculator to see if your cage is big enough. Watch your bar spacing! Rats are master escape artists, so make sure that the bars won't bend, and that you have 1/2" inch bar spacing or less. Popular starter cages include the Critter Nation Single or the Prevue Hendryx Rat/Chinchilla Cage. The Critter Nation is the most popular rat cage by far, but I can vouch for the Prevue Hendryx as easy to clean and set up.
   
   
3. Food can get pretty complicated for a first time owner, so I'll just offer easy suggestions. Feed Mazuri , Native Earth , or Oxbow. Oxbow is the most popular and most balanced, but tends to be the most expensive in smaller bags. In bulk, (20+ pound bags) the price is all about the same. I buy large bags because it's cheaper per pound and I never worry about running out. Then again I have 5 rats, so my situation is different than yours!
   
   
4. Lots of toys and hiding places! This is where you can save money by getting creative. Store bought rat toys can get expensive, but cardboard tubes and boxes are often free! Have one hiding place per rat plus one, preferably on different levels of the cage. Hammocks are a favorite hide for rats, as are boxes, bags, and tubes. If you want to get some store bought stuff, see if you have a bird shop in your area. Almost every toy in there that is safe for birds is going to be a blast for your rats.
   
   
5. Find a vet that is comfortable with rats. Rats don't need shots or regular flea treatments, so finding a vet can seem odd. But eventually, something will go wrong, or one of your babies will fall ill. Having a vet who's experienced with rats or at the very least willing to learn is a godsend. I'm very lucky to have a vet that is familiar with and loves rats. Because of their size and common problems, rat visits are usually very cheap when compared to a dog or a cat. I spend no more than $45 when Juniper or Sugar have a myco flareup.
   
   
6. Don't stop researching. Subscribe to this sub. Check the side bar. Ask questions. (Feel free to PM me, I'll help you as much as I can..) Watch videos on YouTube, like The Rat Guru. Rats are a very "addictive" pet, and it's easy to fall into an obsession with the cute little boogers.
   
   
7. Post pictures when you get them.

Prevue Pet Products 528 Universal Small Animal Home, Dark Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074FH47MQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kTt-AbX3B159F

Just be careful with condensation in tanks.

Personally I recommend a deep bed wire cage like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Prevue-Pet-Products-528-Universal/dp/B074FH47MQ/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=hamster+cage&qid=1550874918&s=gateway&sr=8-5

You can fill the tray with sawdust for tunneling (I used to mix some food into it so they had some foraging to do) and they'll love climbing up and down the bars, even wearing down their teeth on them sometimes. They're more airy and offer more for hamsters to do than glass tanks. I modded mine to add another cage on top (I took the door off the top and wired the second cage over it, then covered the wires with cardboard so they didn't hurt their feet). The second cage was one of those ones with tunnel attachments. Those take some cleaning, but they LOVE them.

My cage was a bit of a behemoth but I housed some very happy hammies in it! At one point we had a rat tube with a hamster ball on the end with a bbq skewer ladder they could climb up, one of them used to nest in it.

That's a great cage. If you want something that may be a bit easier to clean, we have our girls in this one. I wipe it down/clean up poop every day. We change the bedding (exclusively aspen chips - their respiratory performance has been excellent) and give it a good wash-down weekly.

The girls have a spot for hanging hammocks and one of them build an extra nest/sleeping spot on the bottom of the cage each week. She goes there for alone time. They don't really like wooden chews - they much prefer paper/cardboard to chew on and keep them busy. I can't recommend this cage enough as the deep tray in the bottom allows them some privacy. And it's quite attractive.

No, definitely not. I have this cage as my travel cage and my boys get VERY complainy when I put them in there. If you want the Kaytee, I would recommend you get the next size up (https://smile.amazon.com/Kaytee-First-Multi-Level-Habitat-Exotics/dp/B00CETSHN2;I have this as their boarding cage and it works well). That said, if you can, I'd suggest going for the Midwest Critter Nation cage (you could do the single layer as long as you let them out for free roam). It's so much easier to clean and move them in/out of the cage. Also, the ramps on the Kaytee are not super good quality.

This is the cage that I got for two males. Kaytee My First Home Habitat Multi-Level for Exotics, 30 by 18-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CETSHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VCkdBb1BZT9D9

Here’s how it looks set up https://i.imgur.com/Qskkczn.jpg

I only have two complaints 1 I wish the doors were bigger and 2 the included ramps are flimsy so I replaced them with a couple lava ledges and a wood ledge. Overall great value though if you don’t mind a bin style cage.

Do you know if they chew on plastic? I have a cage by Kaytee which has a plastic bottom and shelves. If you have a smaller rat, then you might look elsewhere. This has 1/2 inch wire spacing, so some could potentially escape.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CETSHN2/ref=psdcmw_2975537011_t1_B00CETSQ74

Agree with that. Another option to check out is the M-Cage on amazon, it's listed for $47 here.

https://www.amazon.com/Levels-Ferret-Chinchilla-Glider-HeightBlack/dp/B00HX1182I

According to the RattyCorner cage calculator, it can hold two rats. Also, you could try and wait till the rat manor goes on sale (I got mine for $60 from petco's website). If you think you want more than two rats, I'd suggest saving up for a CN or even looking into the Prevue Hendryx Fiesty Ferret or Dusted Rose Chinchilla Rat cage (bar spacing can be an issue in the ferret one for some smaller rats, and the second one I mentioned is roomy but doesn't have a deep base pan and the metal shelves need to be covered or else they'll corrode).

I only have one piggy for now, but I bought my cage in preparation for another. It's huge and takes up a good portion of my room, but she loves it! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0133LNLJY?pc_redir=T1

Favola Hamster Cage | Includes Free Water Bottle, Exercise Wheel, Food Dish & Hamster Hide-Out | Large Hamster Cage Measures 23.6L x 14.4W x 11.8H-Inches & Includes 1-Year Manufacturer's Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0133LNVAS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QckwDbXWWPN9W

This is exactly what I have - is it really necessary to get her a bigger cage? I don’t have any space for a bigger cage. I could also take her back if that’s in her best interest, but i don’t think it is and I would really hate to do that, but I’m overwhelmed

I don’t use that wheel I have a 7.5 inch diameter flying saucer wheel

I have seen some reeeeeeallly cool builds with ikea cabinets like that! Maybe Christmas will be plentiful!

I really like the look of this cage but I'm not sure if it's deep enough? Definitely the first pre-fab I've seen that is at least close to the mark. (minus all the plastic bits inside)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0133LNVAS/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1VTA7KD78TIYX&colid=24Z8Y1YQPXQL0

Actually, if you read the reviews it's been universally rejected for hamster use. Seems that every user has had the hamster escape from it. I think it's meant to be a guinea pig cage.

I actually made my own bin cages and then connected them to an OvO habitrail system. but be warned I spent a fair amount of money by the time I was done. I don't know what your budget is, but making a bin cage (another DIY vid ) ends up costing around 25-50 bucks, and it 's pretty easy. This is the one I've used when I made my bin cages. It ends up at around 400 sq inches which is good. The nice thing is that since it's plastic it's dead easy to cut a round hole in it to add tubes.

If DIY really isn't your thing I guess this is the pre built cage I'd choose. There are a few questions about durability, you need to change the water bottle to a safer one, and it can only connect to the manufacturer's tube system, which isn't cheap. but neither were the OvO tubes.

There are much more expensive cages as well. You can spend easily 200-300 on a nice prebuilt. Or even make one out of a Ikea bookcase. Lastly if you do decide to build a bin cage I suggest you buy or see if you can borrow a dremel tool. It makes the whole job much easier than using any sort of knife.

Comes with this cage: https://www.amazon.com/Ferplast-CAGE-FAVOLA-BLACK-Hamster/dp/B0133LNVAS/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1550851498&sr=1-4&keywords=hamster+cage

Aquariums get really heavy at larger sizes and the brittle nature of glass makes it fragile. If you want a completely see-through cage, consider something from Ferplast or Savic.

Here is one example:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0133LNVAS/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1517700952&sr=8-4&keywords=Ferplast&dpPl=1&dpID=51PMbmSCCXL&ref=plSrch

I just wasn't sure how non-toxic the paint is. Speaking on this topic though, I upgraded my Robo's cage to this Ferplast one

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0133LNVAS/

He has a ton of floor space. I have two of these cages attached back to back.

Prevue Pet Products 528 Universal... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074FH47MQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Their is the preview 528 wired cage for syrian hamsters, you can buy it on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Prevue-Pet-Products-528-Universal/dp/B074FH47MQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=preview+528+hamster+cage&qid=1564579708&s=gateway&sprefix=preveiw+&sr=8-5
Watch her video for a good review
https://youtu.be/zS2NrSp0y_8

Ferplast Hamster Cage, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0133LNVAS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SWfXCb7P2WVP0

Habitrail Cristal Hamster Cage, Small Animal Habitat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006JVPUQS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bYfXCbFH5ZT0N

i searched online and it seems like those two are some of the best options.

http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Critter-Nation-Animal-Habitat/dp/B001NJ0DAY

Buy nice or buy twice! My girlfriend and I have one of these cages and it has served us quite well.