Best small animal supplies according to redditors

We found 2,492 Reddit comments discussing the best small animal supplies. We ranked the 638 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Small animal carriers
Small animal leashes & harnesses
Small animal exercise wheels
Small animal feeding & watering supplies
Small animal food
Small animal grooming supplies
Small animal health supplies
Small animal houses & habitats
Small animal odor & stain removers
Small animal toys
Small animal treats

Top Reddit comments about Small Animal Supplies:

u/csmith2019 · 101 pointsr/ferrets

This information could vary depending on where you live, as for the United States. Make sure you’re familiar with your local laws on ferrets and your landlords policy before you commit to anything.You’ll most likely come across Marshall ferrets if you’re getting from a pet store. You want to look for the double dot tattoo on their ear that indicates they’ve been descented and spayed/neutered. You should always have at least two ferrets because they’re social animals and get depressed alone. They’re very social and need someone to keep them company whenever you can’t. You really can’t take the place of a second ferret playmate because you cannot play like a ferret and there will be times when they are without you and you can’t cuddle up in their hammock with them lol I find females are easier to train but boys can be very sweet too. They do bite and that needs to be trained out of them. It’s a good idea to research some training techniques before hand so you’re prepared and can be consistent from the start. They relieve themselves in corners so that can be used to your advantage when potty training them. Some people use litter boxes with pellets (never kitty litter), personally I use weewee pads and secure them in place with tape. If they’re not secure they will run away with them and tear them up lol. They do poop a lot and you have to keep up with cleaning it up. They’re super smart and energetic so they need enrichment. Tunnels, ball pits, and toys are a must. They also need lots of out of the cage time (minimum of 4 hours a day but the more the better) if you can dedicate a ferret proof section of your house that is ideal, my ferrets have their own bedroom so they are never confined to a cage. If they are roaming in a non ferret proof room they need to be closely monitored because they can be seriously injured if they chew on a wire, get stepped on, knock over something glass, or get into food that would be toxic for a ferret etc. As far as cages go I recommend a ferret nation cage, the double doors makes cleaning it easier and it’s an appropriate size for a ferret. Wysong digestive support is a good food for them. Grizzly’s salmon oil too. Be careful when picking a food because they cannot have vegetables, grains, or soy and many leading pet food brands do have them. They are strictly carnivores and should never eat dairy, sugar, fruits, vegetables, or grains/breads. They need their ears cleaned once a week and their hammocks and beds need to be washed. The majority of their musky smell comes from their ears so keeping up with that will keep the smell under control. They don’t need baths very often, frequent baths could dry out their skin. Their nails also need to be clipped and this is better off done as a two person job so one person can scruff ( held up by the skin on the back of their neck like a cat would hold a kitten in her mouth) and the other person can clip the nails. Make sure you don’t clip too fair back or you could make them bleed. You can usually see the vein in their nail and avoid it but it is something you need to be careful about and don’t want to do if they’re squirming. Another tactic is to try it right after they’ve fallen asleep so they’re docile enough to let you do it. or you can rub some salmon oil on their tummy so that they’ll be distracted licking it off. Don’t use ferretvite/ferretone/vitamin pastes marketed towards ferrets it contains harmful ingredients (sugar) for ferrets. Keep styptic powder on hand in case of an accident. Their teeth also need to be cleaned. Constant access to fresh water in a bowl (not a bottle) is a must. Don’t leave the lights on for them, the dark is good for their melatonin regulation which helps prevent adrenal disease. I would also recommend keeping an empty emergency kennel above their cage in case of a fire or any other event that would need you to evacuate quickly. It’s also important to have a vet on hand. If you get a Marshall’s ferret they’re usually all taken care of medically before you adopt them but you still need to keep up with routine vaccinations and they are sensitive creatures and are prone so certain problems like insulinoma and adrenal disease, they are also very accident prone and you don’t want to wait until something is wrong to look for a vet. Most conventional cat/dog vets won’t see ferrets because they are considered exotic. You should also familiarize yourself with blockage protocol. They live up to 8 years and take a lot of time, energy, love, patience, and commitment. They are a long term commitment so make sure you’re up for it and your schedule allows for it before you adopt. Good luck :)

MidWest Deluxe Ferret Nation Double Unit Ferret Cage (Model 182) Includes 2 leak-Proof Pans, 2 Shelves, 3 Ramps w/Ramp Covers & 4 locking Wheel Casters, Measures 36" L x 25" W x 62.5" H Inches

Wysong Ferret Epigen 90 Digestive Support - Dry Ferret Food, Four - 5 Pound Bags

Grizzly Omega Health for Dogs & Cats, Wild Salmon Oil/Pollock Oil Omega-3 Blend

This is basically the run down I send to all first time ferret parents on here but to also answer your specific questions 11 hours is okay as long as they have at least 4 hours out of the cage (the more the better though). Raw diet is good but anticipate varying stools. If you want easy and consistency I would go with kibble. I have a ferret proof room where there are no accessible wires but if you can’t provide that duct tape and zip ties are a good idea.
Here is a list with cost estimates

u/Danglesnort · 31 pointsr/instant_regret

That's pretty fuckin' metal lol.

Many years ago people used to think hamsters were just really mean animals because they always fought each other and would literally eat each other and their babies. What people know now is that (especially Syrian) hamsters are extremely territorial when they get of age.

Similarly, hamsters were found in nature to cover huge distances when foraging, miles per night... so these tiny cages you see at Petsmart that are like one square foot, of course they will get bitey. Imagine if you were stuck in a car all day with the doors locked and someone just fed you through the window all day. Anyone would get a little snippy in that situation. This is why I have always built my own cages, but for anyone reading who doesn't have any DIY skills, either get a very large aquarium or get the Prevue 528 ( )

But a bodybuilder can't survive a fall from a plane, or a bullet, or a high speed car accident, any better than a wimpy nerd like myself. He could woop my ass in a fight but we both meet the reaper in situations bigger than ourselves. The hamster may be metal to each other but they will inevitably be injured from a fall or an infection.

u/Azrielenish · 18 pointsr/leopardgeckos

In my last post about the playpen people asked for a better look at it once it was revamped. Well here it is!

It uses the Prevue Small Animal Playpen on top of a soft 3-foot diameter washable area rug.

It has a heat mat from a drug store (the large flat kind that you can put under your back for sore muscles and such) for heat, along with a variety of hides and other enrichment items! Clean PVC pipes and fittings make up a few of them. Also driftwood, a knitted hide from Etsy, and a Cuddle Cave from A Gecko And His PJs on Instagram. It also includes a shallow water dish just in case they get thirsty!

Only one gecko at a time is in the playpen, of course, and I keep an eye on them the whole time. I would not leave them in here unattended as I’m sure they could find a way to escape (they haven’t yet). Haha

u/saltbutt · 17 pointsr/guineapigs

Build a 2x4 C&C cage! It's cheap, easy, and lasts a lifetime. I did it for my two little guys while I was broke in college. And even in my tiny college apartment, I found the space. I put it on a cheap table from Walmart, threw a tablecloth (or maybe it was an old curtain from the dollar store...) over it, and used that space beneath for storage.

Or if you don't want to build, just buy this 2x4 Midwest habitat on Amazon. It's only $35. It makes a NIGHT AND DAY difference in a guinea pig's quality of life. Please!

Enjoy the new piggy. :) I got dogs after my pigs, but I miss the pigs all the time. They're wonderful creatures.


u/Squirrelwinchester · 14 pointsr/Zoomies

Some tips for ferret owning if youre interested. Ferrets are obligate carnivores, do not buy any brand of food that says theyre for ferrets. Most of it is garbage that can kill your ferret. Get a high quality cat kibble here is a link to a chart that has a good list of options. Raw feeding is another good option, here is a forum that teaches about that. They should never have anything but meat or high quality oils, such as salmon oil for treats.

Ferrets need a ton of space to live well these are the best two cages. ferret nation and feisty ferret. The last one you will need to get something to put over the bars to protect their feet though.

Ferrets should not be bathed more than once a month, and only if they are visibly dirty. If you bathe them more than that their body produces more of the musk and they will smell like ass.

Ferrets should always be kept in pairs, especially if they have always been kept with another. They say the best toy for a ferret is another ferret for a reason. Ferrets also require a lot of out of cage play time, so a ferret proofed house or a play pen is required. They will attempt to eat anything and they will get intestinal blockages easily. This will kill them very quickly. There is a "protocol" for trying to get blockages out which includes feeding them raw canned pumpkin. However, the majority of the time they need surgery.

Please feel free to ask me anything about keeping ferrets!

u/speakstruth · 12 pointsr/Rabbits
u/CorbinDallasMyMan · 12 pointsr/RATS

The food in the picture is not appropriate for rats. The pellets are alfalfa and rats won't don't like them. I don't know of any seed/grain mixes in the US that are any good. I'd probably avoid a mix and get a pellet/kibble instead. I'd suggest feeding them something like Oxbow Essentials. It's about $11 for a 3 lb bag that should last about a month and a half.

Your rats don't look malnourished.

u/prickelypear · 12 pointsr/TalesFromRetail

My rats have learned if they jump at their cage door hard enough it will open (we have this cage too so not a cheap one, but one of the doors refuses to lock completely). One of them never leaves the cage when this happens. The other two will go underneath it to knock over the bag of crackers we feed them as treats occasionally and take turns running out from under the cage to steal one to eat. After a bit of that one goes and buries himself in the pillows on the couch and the other goes and finds a nice shoe to sleep in.

It never fails. They do the same things every time.

We do have another that is in his own cage as we couldn't put him with the others. He would get into nasty fights with them and hurt one of the others so badly we had to take it to the vet. He seems perfectly happy in that one alone. We can't play with him like the others. He's very aggressive and will bite quickly if we get close enough to him. He was a "rescue" of sorts in that he was the last one at PetsMart and had been there a while. No one wanted him. He was sweet at the store but we've been unable to get through to him at home. Not sure what to do with him.

u/maggiefiasco · 10 pointsr/aww

First of all, realize they are nocturnal animals. He or she will be up ALL NIGHT and they are very active creatures, and if you are not also a night owl, this might bother you. Consider getting a large wheel like this one. They have long tails that can get stuck in the bars of hamster wheels, and they'll run on this thing all night long if you ignore them so the silent part is key. Yes, they need a lot of space, ideally the larger the enclosure the better. If you only have one or two sugars you can opt for a large bird cage or small reptarium (like a terrarium, but for reptiles) but any more than that, and you start looking at really expensive cages. They'll also enjoy large hamster or guinea pig balls to roam around the house. The more toys, the more space, the more attention the better.

Secondly, they are exotic and require a lot of care. Their diets are very specialized and you'll have to make a lot of it from scratch and provide a lot of fresh fruit and insects. They are marsupials, they require certain vitamins and minerals to remain healthy and free of disease. A common disease for sugars is something called HLP, hind leg paralysis. Because of this they need foods high in calcium... You'll need to learn to make BML food, the instructions and ingredients for which can be found here They also love fresh fruits, a good list can be found here You can go to any local bait shop and pick up bugs for them, my sugar really liked crickets and mealworms. I ended up keeping a small cage full of crickets and a small cup of mealworms in the fridge, in addition to the BML in the freezer, and fresh fruit, honey and snacks for feedings.

Food, aside from nourishment is a great opportunity for bonding. They like applesauce or yogurt and will eat it from the tips of your fingers. Its a good idea to start them young with these behaviours so they learn your scent, and are less prone to bite. He or she will enjoy eating with you, and they will appreciate getting treats or insects straight from your hands. Aside from bonding with food, scent bonding is key. Sugar gliders, like ferrets, have scent glands in their heads and bodies. The males are stronger scented than females, but they will mark their territory and you, and will look for your scent as well. I used small squares of cloth that I had slept with or kept under my pillow for several days. I'd put this in his nest box or pouch (obviously, marsupials sleep in pouches, yet another thing to research or a fun DIY sewing project) and he'd sleep with it, growing accustomed to my smell. Feeding them by hand and scent bonding are both important to start on when they are young.

TL;DR they're just REALLY different from any other pet you've probably ever had. Do the research and really think about whether or not this type of work is for you.

I hope you or anybody else who read all that found this comment helpful :)

u/MoodyStocking · 10 pointsr/hamsters

I'm not sure if you are the vloggers in this video, but I'm gonna assume you are and give you the standard 'new hamster advice' that we give a lot of people on here, as a community we're trying to improve hamster care, and as a youtuber, your community is so important for forwarding that :)

First off, it looks like you've got some good kids that will hopefully be good and responsible hamster owners! However, and this is a fault with the pet shops more than anything who often give out incorrect if well meaning advice for new owners, there are a few things you can do that'll make your hamster happier and a much better pet.

Firstly, the wheel needs to be replaced with one with a solid running base, a 12" one is perfect for syrian hamsters. Wired wheels lead to something called Bumblefoot (wiki article linked), which is very painful for hamster. The best wheels have a solid base, a solid back, and a semi-open front, something like this.

Also, the cage needs to be substantially bigger, although it's hard to tell what the dimensions are from the video, you should be aiming for 450 square inches of unbroken floor space. A 40gallon aquarium is perfect, or a bin cage - bin cages can be a really fun project for the kids to get involved with as well...and another huge benefit is that there is less opportunity for bar chewing!! The bedding in the cage should be deeper - a few inches for sure, but deeper is better, they love burrowing and in the wild will burrow many meters under the ground.

Studies have shown that hamsters in bigger cages are calmer, less stressed, and easier to handle (I can dig them up if you want), so a bigger cage is better for the hamster and better for you!

There's some great resources on the subreddit about good hamster care :)

edit: a very well put together thread about cage size/set up, including research sources

u/VTANac · 9 pointsr/RATS

You could try getting a spacepod thing.
One of my boys is just not a fan of the hammocks but always sleeps in the spacepod. I just place a blanket inside so he has something soft to lay on.
This is the one I have I think:

u/CMRescueAdvocate · 8 pointsr/guineapigs

First off, do NOT buy them a wheel, cavies are not designed to run on wheels and can injure or even break their backs using wheels, balls, or harnesses. Second, you will want two if not three of everything (food dishes, water bottles, hides, etc) just to be on the safe side.

The cage is still a bit too small. A cage such as this (there is a lid they sell for it as well which I recommend) would be the minimum size for two;


You could also make a cubes and coroplast style cage, you don't have to be extremely good at building to make one either for probably even cheaper. Here is some information on making your own cage and where to find materials (sign shops should have the coroplast, and the safe 9 x 9 1.5" spaced grids should be available at most Bed Bath and Beyond stores and Walmart's website);

You want a hide that has two exits so fights do not occur. You can even use a soda or similar box with both ends cut out (as long as they do not flatten it out and potty on it). Me, I just use a couple of bent cage grids zip-tied to the back of the cage securely and then drape fleece over those to make tunnels.

For pellets, the absolute best one I've found is Kleenmama's Hayloft pellets if you are in the United States or Canada (you cannot have the hay shipped to Canada, only the pellets). Her hay is amazing too. If you cannot get this for some reason, Oxbow is your next best bet. Cavies under 6 months to 1 year old will need alfalfa pellets, while adults over 6 months to one year need timothy based pellets.

Do not get anything you have to put into water, as it can put them off of drinking it. Oxbow makes a vitamin C tablet that is pretty popular with guinea pigs.

You will want to have some sort of grass hay on hand at all times. Timothy, orchard grass, and blue grass are all common types to give guinea pigs. Second or third cutting is the softest and safest (not sharp at the ends). I buy it in large bales locally to save whenever they have good quality hay in. KM's hayloft sells hay as well on their website and is usually cheaper per pound than even Kaytee hay (which tends to be terrible quality) even after shipping. Oxbow also sells bagged hay, but sometimes I have found it to be harder hay. Another brand I have had some luck with bagged hay from is LM Farms hay (the pellets are not so good though).

You really need a larger cage to start, because as babies become adolescents and then go into puberty they will be more about dominance. Babies are also pretty hyper and need the space to run around. Adults like to be active on their own time as well but babies as I said are downright hyper and like to zoom around a good sized cage, so a minimum of 27" wide by 41" long is needed for a pair.

u/nopefruit · 8 pointsr/hamsters

SNACKS. You can make bigger things smaller by breaking/slicing them up so to the hamster it feels like it's getting more out of a snack giving session. Winter Whites/Campbells/Their Hybrids have a high risk of becoming diabetic so you want to limit sugary foods and snacks. I find that treats made out of the healthy stuff they snub/turn their nose up are usually a good way to give them snacks AND make sure they're eating what they should diet wise. Baked nummies are a hit with my hamsters who go 'ew' at the foods in their wet or dry normal states.

Wear tissues somewhere on you for a few hours (I put mine in my shirit) and then give them to the hamsters for bedding/whatever so they have something present constantly that smells like you. It'll help them become used to your scent. Dwarf hamsters do not permanently tame like syrians can so if you have a few days of no interaction or go on vacation or something and don't have anything to get them reintroduced to you, they can be pretty chompy and swatty.

Talk to them a lot. Let them get used to how you sound. Especially when you are giving them snacks or putting your hand in for them.

Dwarf hamsters are REALLY NIPPY and love to chomp down and hang on. Some even chew. So while their bites don't hurt as bad as a syrians would, they can still be a bit of an ouch and you want to try not to give into reflex and tug your hand away because you'll end up bringing the rodent with you and that can give them a negative impression.

Playpens such as these can be linked up if you have multiple to make more space. So you can sit in the pen with them during bonding times if you don't want to do a bonding box or sit in the bath tub.

Nylon run pens like this are also great. I can sit in the one my boyfriend owns and chill with any of the rodents. Though with playpens like that, you want to make sure you have enough things to chew on that the hamsters aren't deciding to try gnawing on the fabric. I've found that's more of a risk with syrians than dwarfs, though.

u/Justbinkyingalong · 8 pointsr/SubredditDrama

Oh I feel your pain, Pepper likes to go under my bed, and under my nightstand. I solved the bed issue by getting a fence enclosure like this and putting it around my bed.
Although considering the thread this is being posted on, I am NOT assuming that you don’t already have one of these, merely posting a comment telling you where you can purchase one if you may need it.

u/snukb · 8 pointsr/hamsters

I'm assuming that when you say she gets carrots to chew on, you mean among other things. Carrots, if given in the amounts necessary for active chewers, would give your hammie diarrhea. She needs other safe chew alternatives, like safe wood, raw shelled nuts (NO ALMONDS), or edible chews from the pet store.

I'd also recommend replacing that wheel with something with a solid surface, like a Wodent Wheel, Silent Spinner, or Flying Saucer.

One of my favorite toys for cage boredom is a simple toilet paper tube, stuff a bit of non-perishable treats in the middle (like Cheerios, sunflower seeds, dried peas, etc) and the stuff the rest with shredded paper or hay. Wrap paper around it and twist the ends like a giant wrapped hard candy, and give to your hammie. They have to shred the outside to get to the treats inside, and they can use the leftover paper as nesting material.

u/flagrant_armadillo · 8 pointsr/RATS

I just ordered this stuff. It has rave reviews:

Oxbow Regal Rat Food

*If you read the reviews make sure to sort them by most recent. The formula has changed so that rats find it tastier in addition to being very healthy

u/PixelVector · 8 pointsr/Awwducational

I've had a total of three.

They're cord chewers. Best advice I could give there is just to keep the cords out of the way or run them through plastic flexible tubing.

You don't have to have them out of their cage too much if your cage is big enough. You can just play with them on a couch or bed every day. You can let them free roam around but yeah you'd have to 'rat proof' things you don't want chewed.

My recommended cage is the CritterNation. Lots of room for a pair of rats and a really high quality cage. On that note you'd want to have at least two because they can get lonely by themselves. It's easier adopting two brothers or sisters who are already bonded otherwise you'll have to very slowly introduce them to prevent fighting.

They will sometimes leave trails of urine when about. It's very small dribbles though usually, like a few drops. I think it may be possible to train them not to but I didn't put much effort there since it occurred pretty rarely for me. For the most part they self-litter-trained for me and when they actually went it was in a particular part of their cage.

For tricks I had one who was an awesome shoulder percher. You could just sit your hand down and tap and he'd come running up your arm and shoulder and just sit there. When perched he'd usually just kind of sit there and balance, maybe play with hair. I could drive with him perched and he'd get excited when going near a car.

He'd also stand up on command.

u/RazzBeryllium · 8 pointsr/hamsters

For Syrians, you'll want a bigger wheel (at least 10"). These are all popular options (assuming you're in the U.S.):

  • (my personal favorite)

  • (I have this one as well and it's good)

  • (I've never tried these but I've seen them recommended as well)

    For Syrians, I'd say bare minimum floor space is 650 sq. inches, but larger is always better (some countries recommend twice that). If you're in the U.S., it's virtually impossible to find a large enough cage, so many people go the DIY route using bins or other creative options. For example, using the IKEA Detolf will provide 1,082 sq inches of floor space (and is cheaper than most large cages anyway).

    You'll also want to give him a sand bath AND a separate sand area for a litter box. (So two sand areas). Child's play sand (available at hardware stores) is a great cheap option, but this is often recommended as well:

    Rather than getting a hamster ball, it's generally preferable to hamster-proof a room (or block off part of a room) and allow them free-roaming time as often as you can. It's great exercise, lets them explore, and presents an opportunity for you to have fun interactions (let them run around and tire themselves out first, though).

u/pshowers · 8 pointsr/hamsters

Hamster Cages:

These are all cages that are an appropriate size. You can also look up DIY bin cages or get a 30 gallon tank.

You really want to have 4-6 inches of bedding for burrowing purposes.

u/Durshka · 7 pointsr/RATS

Okay, lessee.. note: info overload coming..

Good bedding types are 100% recycled cat litter, there are only a few which don't contain harmful phenols, those are back2nature, yesterday's news and carefresh. Carefresh should be frozen beforehand to kill any possible mites. Don't use wood shavings/chippings, most are made from pine and that's harmful to the babes.

Don't use shampoo with them, if you must, get pet shampoo that doesn't contain phenols. I haven't actually washed mine and I've had them 7 months. Girls don't get very smelly and groom themselves. I occasionally add a small drop of pure olive oil to their food which keeps their fur shiney. You can add a drop directly to their fur, rub it in and they'll groom it out. The best way to keep them clean, is to teach them to go pea-fishing :D Start off with a small container with a small bit of water and build up from there. Always let them approach the water themselves and entice them with peas.

Don't feed them too many naughty treats, they're actually really easy to treat, my girls will do anything for a bit of chicken and they love peas.

Their diet.. now this is a tricky one. Lots of fresh veg, a small bit of fruit and a small bit of protein and lots of cereal. There's any number of commercial feeds you can get, others can advise which are best, we don't get the good ones in my country. The pet shop you got them from.. eh... know nothing, sorry. Bird food and moist dog food are a horrible diet for rats! The seeds have no nutrients and the dog food has too much fat and protein (you might find they have runny poo because of it). The best bet is to make up your own. I feed my brats a version of the Shunamite diet. The Rat Lady's and Suebee's also come highly recommended.

Random other things you can feed them, any meats or fatty foods should be given sparingly: hard boiled egg (crack the shell to get it started, then watch the mayhem), cooked chicken bones, cooked plain chicken, fresh veg, tinned tuna, porridge made from water, mealworms, yoggies. Things to avoid: apple seeds, citrus fruits, uncooked sweet potato, soda, milk. This is not a definitive list. If I'm giving my babes something new I will generally google it first, which recently stopped me from giving them asparagus (apparently it makes their pee stink!).

Okay, what else.. TOYS! You don't need a wheel, but if you get one, go for a closed wheel with no gaps, ie: something like this. If you get the normal metal one their tails could get trapped. My girls get a lot of homemade toys, they love the inner rolls of toilet paper. If you give them some with the tissue still attached, they can use it as bedding. They love hammocks, there's so many ways to make them.

From your pics, they look a bit startled and are hiding in the corners, it might be an idea to give them some sort of shelter (a cardboard box) until they get used to their surroundings. This is a great guide in how to socialise them, basically, yoghurt on a metal spoon.

Oh, and did you know, rats can't vomit. So.. when you give them something new, they'll nibble a tiny bit, then go away and wait, if it doesn't make them sick, they'll come back and eat it. So, if your babes don't seem to be trying anything new, give them some time, that's just their natural instincts coming through!

Lastly, did you know you can litter train rats. Look for some youtube vids, but basically, use a different bedding to their cage, find their preferred corner, move their pellets in there and they'll pick it up. It'll never work for their pee though :/

You should aim to give them about an hour "free-roam" per day, this can be in a barricaded area. Remember, rats can jump quite high and they love chewing things, as some of my cables found out :/ Also, you won't be doing this for the first couple of days, let them settle in first.

Oh, and the first thing you should teach them is to come when called, use treats to get this (my girls will race for bits of bran flakes), it's a lifesaver when they get lost/stubborn!

Let me know if I forgot anything! :D

u/wow-so-tacky · 7 pointsr/guineapigs

You mention her previous home was not caring well for her, so I'm just going to say right away that the situation you have her in does not sound any better. Absolutely do not keep her outside in the winter, since that does not sound like a safe or sustained temperature environment. It is way too risky. Guinea pigs as pets are generally indoor animals, so I'm curious why she wasn't living inside to begin with. An outdoor space can work so long as the enclosure is closed off, protected from weather and you can maintain the temperature at around 65-75 degrees. Much higher or lower and you risk death. A reasonably sized indoor cage (such as this Midwest Habitat, anything much smaller than this is highly discouraged) is relatively inexpensive. Furnish it with your choice of bedding (I personally recommend fleece), a hidey house or two, a food dish, hay rack and a water bottle (keep in mind she may not drink from it consistently, more on this in the next paragraph). Any working individual should be able to reasonably afford this.


Concerning food, does she have anything else besides the one carrot per day? Guinea pigs should have a constant supply of hay (usually timothy hay if they're adults), pellet food (preferably with vitamin c as they do not naturally produce it) and water, either in the form of a bottle or fresh vegetables at the very least. Ideally they also have about half a cup of fresh vegetables per day, minimum. Romaine or Green Leaf lettuce is most commonly used to fulfill this requirement, along with green bell peppers (high in vitamin c and ample source of water). Avoid Iceberg lettuce as it is mostly water and has very little nutrional value for them.


She's likely shy because the previous owner(s) did not interact with her much, and again by your own description, you aren't really doing this either if your only daily interaction is giving her a carrot. Moving her to a more cozy indoor space where she is around and can see people would be a great quality of life improvement for her by itself. Not to mention this would make interacting with her much easier and more convenient compared to her being alone outside. One thing I will say here is that often times guinea pigs are not like dogs and cats in that they will usually warm up to you relatively quickly. In fact the warming up process could take months or even a year+ in some cases, so be mindful of this. However, from my own experiences, the more often you interact with them, the quicker this process is. Start off simple by offering food directly from your hand until she feels comfortable enough to come and take it from you consistently and go from there.


As someone else pointed out, guinea pigs generally do better in pairs. Look into getting her a friend (of the same sex) and read up on bonding techniques. Financially, this is a relatively negligible difference compared to only having one.


Lastly, here are a couple of links with practically everything you need to know in regards to guinea pig care, check the sidebars on the left for various topics:

LA Guinea Pig Rescue on Youtube (check the playlist tab for a more categorized version)

u/Swtcherrypie · 7 pointsr/RATS

You definitely want to cover any floors or shelves that have bare wires on them. It can cause bumblefoot, and that will be no fun for either of you. If you're concerned with the extra cloth making it too warm, you could get a space pod or some baskets for them to sleep in that won't be so warm. You could also get a chin chiller to give them a cool place to rest.

u/Solleret · 7 pointsr/Rabbits

As someone who spent too much money on fancy toys, I have to say our bun most loves to play Cup, Tube, Egg Carton, Phone Book, Bag, and Box.

He will ignore almost any toy that costs actual money.

I think the only store-bought thing he actually likes is the Teach and Treat, but I tend to leave it out without its lid on… so sometimes it's just the "Treat."

They also love having areas to feel safe in or "in charge of" their habitat: large concrete form tubes for tunnels, boxes with windows, and bridges / ramps are all awesome additions to a rabbit's home.

u/weez09 · 6 pointsr/guineapigs

It looks like that one popular cage off of amazon and it can be sectioned into parts with doors between the sections (you can see that the bedding extends past the left side of the cage at the bottom left corner of the picture).

u/Salxandra · 6 pointsr/RATS

If you don't have a space pod yet, that's a loved toy by rats.

My rats love to chew, so I get them a box of kid's wood blocks. I make sure that they are non-toxic.

This is from ebay because it's vintage... but my rats love this ark, and it's fairly easy to clean as it unscrews.

We got our "crate" at a garage sale. Fairly easy to clean and a favorite hide.

Orb of Solitude - Usually only one rat can fit inside at a time. We've never had a problem with a rat getting stuck. They seem to know when they've outgrown the small holes, but do keep an eye on them.

u/Sykirobme · 6 pointsr/RATS

Dollar store desk accessories and organizer bins are great.

I had an exercise ball zip-tied up in one corner of my cage, which my boys loved, but it wasn't the easiest thing to get inside and clean. I got one of these to replace it, and it's much easier to keep clean.

u/theswedishtrex · 6 pointsr/hamsters

I had a hamster (RIP Mimmi :() that would do that. I freaked out the first time she did it. She was my first hamster and I was so scared something was wrong with her. But, nope. Just lazy.

But I really would suggest getting a larger wheel :) I use this for my hammy

u/JunoDiana92 · 6 pointsr/RATS
  • I use fleece bedding and a towel underlay (to absorb urine). I buy cheap towels from Wal-mart or the dollar stores, along with the cheapest yardage of fleece fabric. I'll cut both to the sizes of the floors, and fix them onto the plastic floor sheeting using safety pins. The fleece goes over the towels, and both are taken out for washing every 2-3 days or so. I've made ~3 sets for each floor of my Critter Nation, so I'll always have one ready to go once their current set gets dirty.

  • Two of these water bottles are more than enough for our 6 rats. We fill them up every other day or so, and clean them out weekly. I have a stone soap dish resting below the mouths of the bottle, so the bedding doesn't get soaked

  • These litterboxes are a favorite of ours. They have a grate to prevent rats from kicking up litter, and fasteners to ensure the box itself isn't pushed around

  • We've bought quite a few quality fleece hammocks and the like from this vendor. You'd be hard pressed to find a cheaper vendor that makes this high a quality.

  • You'll be tempted to buy a lot of neat toys and baubles online and from pet stores. It's not entirely necessary. Rats have just as much fun playing around with a homemade cardboard fort as they would with an expensive store-bought toy. Here's some inspiration for DIY toys. My personal favorite is the toilet paper tube stuffed with paper and a small tasty treat


  • If the cage is up against a wall, it would be a good idea to cover the wall with vinyl covering or a sheet of paper. If they start making porphyrin sneezes when they're ill, it's going to make noticeable stains

  • Try and save up for a 2-story attachment if you can; the upkeep is about the same, and almost entirely eliminates the need for outdoor play-time.

  • Once your rats get bonded to you, they'll wait by the door when you approach the cage. Be careful not to close the door on their tiny paws or tails.

  • Don't try to make the cage look neat or organized; rats do not care for the human idea of cleanliness, and will rearrange the cage around to suit themselves.

  • Avoid using any litter that uses baking soda or would produce any kind of dust or particulates in the air; that would be a big respiratory risk

  • Don't clean the cages with most commercial cleaners (ex: wet wipes, clorox wipes, etc.), esp. those that have phenol type chemicals; it's incredibly unhealthy for the rats and has long term hepatotoxicity risks. I stick exclusively to Vinegar, water, hydrogen peroxide, and plain Dawn Dish soap.

  • You've probably heard this before, but absolutely NO PINE AND NO CEDAR anywhere!
u/Althonse · 6 pointsr/guineapigs

Introduce them in a neutral area. When we do it we put clean towels down (smells are very important) in an area enclosed by two of these connected into one big area. Watch them for an hour or two and have a towel handy ready to toss in to break up any fights. Small amounts of nipping and stuff is normal, they need to figure out their relationship. But full on lunges or extended fights are no bueno, especially if blood is drawn. If that happens break it up immediately.

We also have a divider for our cage. So after we do the initial introduction we house them separately but next to each other (so they can smell / hear) for about a week. Then we'll do a second introduction in the neutral area and if all goes well they'll be cuddling by the end of it. Then they can go in the cage together, but best to do it when you're around so can check it out in case you hear scuffles.

Chances are they'll get along great, though males can be the trickiest. Both adoption places we've been to understand that they need to get along with the piggie you already have, so will take them back within 30 days if things aren't working out between the two of them.

Finally, just google things. There's a ton of info on what to look for and expect when introducing the piggies. Here is just one such good source.

Good luck! And you definitely should have two otherwise your little guy may get depressed. They are much more active and 'upbeat' when they have a cage mate.

u/[deleted] · 6 pointsr/Rabbits

Cardboard boxes with shredded paper, pieces of cardboard, paper towel rolls, and some hay stuffed inside with a tunnel attached is by far my buns' favorite toys. They love going in and ripping everything apart and finding hay/treats to eat. Bunnies love cardboard boxes in general. They'll rip them apart and move them around, chew on 'em, make hidey holes, climb on them. I'll even cut out some holes on the side of the boxes and stuff cardboard tubes frayed at the ends/stuffed with hay for them to have fun with.

Tunnels rank at number 2 favorite toy. Their favorite is the crinkley cat tunnels which have holes throughout them they can dart out. They like the crinkle noise too.

They love manipulating objects, hard plastic slinkies (not metal ones!) are fun for them ... and to watch, haha. Hard plastic baby rattles, baby keys, etc. Just no gel/soft plastic as it would be easy for them to bite and ingest. This has an awesome list of toys and also places to buy bun toys. I've bought cottontail cottages, activity tables, rosewood activity trees, etc--buns love them all! But they are expensive for sure. The activity tables last forever but it would definitely be cheaper to build one !

Oh, also--I would recommend games like the Teach N Treat for mental stimulation as well:

There are tons of dog and cat games like that too that buns will love:

Also they love moving around these treat balls when you stuff em with pellets:

They love games that have anything to do with eating/end result being eating. :P CAT TREES! Build your own if you want! Make sure if you buy one to cover any non-safe bun material.

I also got them one of these: Stack cups! Put treats between them and watch them knock them over and nom the treats. :) They also like knocking these off. These things! This makes eating hay a bit more fun for them. :)

My boys love rolling around and destroying these:

Bunnies really enjoy long-term projects, which is why they like the dig boxes I described in the first paragraph so much. They dig and rearrange the boxes foreeever until I make a new one for them.

u/Skilpadden · 6 pointsr/PetMice

One thing that you can try for a noisy wheel is to put a few drops of vegetable oil (like olive oil) on the axle. It won't hurt the mice to come in contact with it or eat it, and it will silence the wheel. Also, I've had this wheel for a year and it is still quiet.

u/Robbotlove · 6 pointsr/LilGrabbies

I'd say so. I have 8 boys in a critter nation. They're (somewhat) litter trained but i do a spot clean every day. that takes only about 10 minutes. And i do a big clean on the weekends which is just the spot clean plus throwing the fleece liners in the washing machine. I give them a few scoops of Oxbow Rat food with a few scoops of brown rice in the morning, and some mixed veggies at night. And of course treats. But i try not to over feed them with the treats.

But, there are all kinds of cage options. Obviously you wouldnt need the cage mentioned above having like 2 or 3 rats. (but you must have more than 1 rat otherwise they get depressed and lonely).

u/Sewwattsnew · 6 pointsr/Pets

Whatever you decide to get, please don't buy from a pet store. Look for a rescue or a reputable breeder instead. Rat/hamster/guinea pig mills are just as bad as puppy/kitten mills.

If you want to know more about these mills and ruin your day, go here and here.

Reputable breeders will be working to reduce the instances of respiratory infections, tumors, etc in the lines they breed, which saves you money on vet bills in the long run. Rescues can give you a health history and also let you know about the individual animal's personality, as well. You can look for adoptable small animals on Petfinder.

But back to your question, I would definitely vote for rats over hamsters (having owned both), especially if there will be young children around.

I would not leave them for 1-3 days without having someone at least drop by to check on them 1-2 times a day. That's way too long if something goes wrong (for example, if they push all the food out of the cage, or if a water bottle fails, or if they fall and injure themselves inside the cage, etc).

Free roaming is great if you can fully rat-proof the area (or hamster-proof, guinea pig-proof, etc). No wires on the floor, no questionable things they might eat, no small holes in the wall they could squeeze into, and so on. If you can't provide that, then enclosing a safe space would be the better option. I used the bathroom as a free ranging space for a while until I had a fully rat-proofed room for mine to roam.

In addition to the great info that triskadancer provided, I want to add a few things...

A good lab block means, not Kaytee. The top three I know of are Oxbow Regal Rat, Mazuri's Rodent Breeder 6F, and Harlan Teklad/Native Earth (there are different varieties, you want the higher protein for babies and lower protein for adults).

Rats tend to live 2-3 years, in my experience. 3 years is awesome, 4 is just short of miraculous. None of my rats lived much past 2 years. However, I had males and I believe females tend to live a little longer.

You can reduce females' risk of tumors by getting them spayed.

Rats are sensitive to dusty bedding, and it is never safe to use pine or cedar (this goes for hamsters, too).

u/specialgreenonion · 6 pointsr/RATS

Aw that's wonderful! Congrats on getting sucked into the wonderful world of being a ratty owner - you're gonna love it!

So first things first: you ALWAYS adopt at least two rats. More is always preferable, and I personally think three is the best minimum because the difference between looking after 2 vs 3 ratties is honestly minimal, but that 1 extra furbaby makes all the difference to them. Rats are very very social and need friends to thrive and live happy lives. Even if you had all the time in the world and had 1 rat, you wouldn't be able to make up for all the things he needs to have with another rat(s).

Ratties are relatively simple to look after, although they do need a good bit of socializing, attention and stimulation. This helps them thrive and live happy lives. They're very intelligent and can learn a lot of things if you wish to do so - this stimulates them mentally and keeps their brains active, which again, makes them thrive!

I'll get the long stuff out of the way first and then give you a list of foods, bedding and cages after.

Generally, rats tend to adjust to new environments pretty well and they build bonds quickly too. It took my 3 boys about 2-3 weeks to become complete cuddlebugs and trust me. Of course, rats that come from a shop where they havent been socialized properly since a young age will be more shy and scared than rats from a breeder/accidental litters etc. There are different trust and bonding exercises you can do when you first get your ratties to help them adjust to their new home. There are generally 2 approaches that people take - slow and patient, or a bit more forceful. Both sides have their supporters and opposition. I find that a combination worked best for me. You just need to try and see which works best, all ratties are different. These are some of the things to do with new ratties:

When bringing the ratties home and setting them up in their cage, observe their behaviour. They will probably be a little shy but also curious, and the curious side generally tends to be stronger than the shy side! They will probably hide at first or stay in one place, but sit beside their cage and try not to make any sudden or fast movements. Just be there with them, let them smell you and get used to you, so they realize that you're a safe presence and youre not scary.

If your ratties are starting to walk around and explore their cage a little more, you can gently and slowly place your hand flat inside the bottom of the cage. Dont move, let the ratties come to you. They most likely wont be able to fight their curious side and will come over to sniff and maybe even have a little nibble on your nails, fingers etc. Dont move, let them do their thing.

Observe their behaviour and you'll be able to make a judgement on how they react to this approach. Put some porridge, apple sauce or pudding in your hand and let them lick it/eat it out of your hand. You want to pick something they wont be able to grab and run away with, which is why pudding/sauce type of food is a better choice. This forces them to eat near you and even lick you which teaches them that they can trust you, that they can get nice tasty treats and food off you and you wont hurt them.

They'll start becoming more comfortable and eventually they'll be climbing on you out of their cage when you place your hand inside, sleeping in your hoodie and riding on your shoulder. Let them do it at their own pace.

You should also spend time with them free roaming outside of the cage, to do some trust training and bonding. Many people choose to sit in their bathtub and let the ratties run around, explore and climb all over them. If you have a rat safe, smallish room, you can also sit down and let them explore and come to you etc. They'll have fun, they'll explore, play and they will start to include you. They'll gain confidence. Ratties tend to also playfight/wrestle with each other - this is normal and not a sign of aggression. The playfighting can look a bit scary if youre unfamiliar with ratty behaviour, but generally if theres no blood drawn and the rats still cuddle, eat and are relaxed around each other when theyre not wrestling, then everything is fine. They usually calm down with the wrestling after a couple of months.

Everything I described above is on the more slow and patient side. This worked beautifully with 2 of my ratties. One of them was a lot more shy however so I did try one forceful method with him and it worked amazingly.

If you do encounter a problem where a rat (or all of them) aren't really responding to these trust and bonding methods, then you can try the slightly more forceful approach. The idea in this approach is that since the rat is too timid/scared, you have to show them that they're safe with you. I had to do this with one of my rats and after 1 day, he changed completely. He became 100% comfortable and happy, he ran over to me when I came to the cage etc. Before that, he was in the hammock all day and didnt leave the cage, he didnt come to me at all.

I wore 2 shirts - one thin shirt underneath and a cozy big hoodie on top of that. All I did was take him out of the cage despite protests (squeaking and struggling was involved unfortunately) and I put him inside my hoodie. He was nice and warm there and at first he was a bit scared but he soon fell asleep. I walked around all day with him in my hoodie (obviously giving him water and food haha). Eventually he left the inside of my hoodie and started walking around on my shoulders, sniffing my face, nibbling on my hair, climbing up and down my arms etc.

That one day showed him that there's nothing to be scared of and he is completely safe with me. He will get food, water and shelter from me, he wont get hurt and he's completely safe. After that 1 day, he's been the most amazing sweet cuddlebug, very confident and very playful too!

So that pretty much covers the basic behavioural patterns and approaches - of course there's definitely something I missed and Im sure someone else here will bring up something I havent said, but that does pretty much cover the most fundamental basics.

As for food - ratties need a low fat, low protein diet. The best staple food to give them is lab blocks. A great brand that people swear by is Oxbow. The reason why this type of food is great, is because it's formulated perfectly to accommodate the ratties' diet essentials and the rats also cant be picky about which bits of food they do and dont like - this means they're getting ALL of their necessary nutrients. I wouldnt recommend getting any rat food mixes where all the nutrients they need are in separate foods all thrown together into a bag, because they're just gonna eat the bits they like and leave the ones they dont care for. Some people make their own mixes though and that works really well for them - it all depends on how picky your rats are. Personally, its hard for me to find Oxbow where I live and its very expensive to buy online, so I use this food. It's like a european version of oxbow, my rats love it and thrive on it. If your rats are young though, you want to give them a little more protein couple of times a week than is included in Oxbow or the food I use. Some boiled chicken two or three times a week until they're around 6 months or so (if Im wrong, please correct me on this, but Im pretty sure its 6 months).

You want to give them fresh vegetables to supplement their lab block diet. All the leafy greens are great for them, but other veggies are good too - just dont overdo it because the fibre will cause them to have runny poops. Rat poop should be like dry little pellets, with barely any odour unless you get all up close and personal. They might have diarrhea the first day or two when theyre in their new home just from stress, just keep an eye out on them. My ratties love cucumbers, kale, parsley, broccoli, tomatoes and spinach. Carrots are also a good choice. Try different things and see what they like. Here is a good list of foods your rats are NOT allowed to eat.

Fresh water should of course be available at all times. They should drink water only, nothing else unless you need some cranberry juice or something like that to mix with their medication if theyre sick.

As for cages - ratties need to climb, explore, run around and play. This is a rat cage calculator - select your units and put in the dimensions of the cage you're considering buying, it'll calculate how many rats can fit in the cage youre choosing. Of course this is a rough guideline, so use your best judgement - the cage may be big enough but if there's no shelves for them to climb onto or to place their food bowels etc. then its not suitable.

The ultimate cage everyone here recommends is Midwest Critter Nation. It's an expensive cage but it's perfect. Of course if youre only getting 2 or 3 rats, you dont need a huge cage like this. You can opt to get them the single Critter Nation rather than the double if you wish. That would be a great option for a smaller mischief of rats. The important things to look out for in a cage, is that the bar space isnt too big. This is especially important if youre looking to adopt girls since theyre smaller. The cage should also be powder coated, not galvanized and the bars ideally horizontal (this means the ratties can climb and its easier for you to hang their hammocks and other cage accessories).

u/maddiebun2217 · 6 pointsr/PetMice

It is a prevue 528. It is an amazing cage with over 600 square inches of floor space. Would definitely recommend.

Prevue Pet Products 528 Universal Small Animal Home, Dark Gray

u/CShan17 · 6 pointsr/ferrets

Proper diet is crucial. Raw is the best but many ferrets are on kibble. With the exception of Wysong, ferret kibbles are no good. Many cat kibbles with the exception of a few are unacceptable as well. Stay away from Ferret brands like Marshalls, Mazuri, Dr Foster Smith, 8 in 1, Kaytee, Wild Harvest, Totally ferret, Zupreem, Dumor, along with anything that has rice, corn, wheat, barley, molasses. (I would name cat brands too, but again most of them are unacceptable to give. The major ones being Purina, Iams, and Meow Mix, Hills, Whiskas, these aren't even good for cats.) Ferrets are obligate carnivores which means they literally cannot digest or process anything other than raw meat organs and bones. Anything else that is or contains fruit vegetables salt sugar nuts dairy or carb of any kind especially rice, corn, or wheat is detrimental to their health. The absolute worse is anything with corn, rice, wheat, barley, molasses, potatoes or peas especially within the first few ingredients. Ferrets little bodies have to work so hard just process it. Raw is the best thing you can give, but lets stick to kibbles. When switching Kibbles ferrets need to be transitioned gradually to do so do a 1 to 4 ratio of new food too old and increase as you see fit. My boys were off Marshalls and on Wysong within 10 days. Please feel free to message me with any questions!

This new chart now contains totally ferret, I strongly recommend not using it due to rice being the third ingredient. It should only be used if absolutely necessary only if they have IBD or other food allergies.

Ferrets are very expensive family members, if you haven't already, start saving up now in case there's ever an emergency which there likely will be sometime in their life. It's important that you have a ferret knowledgeable vet, having an exotic vet is the bare minimum, often it's hard to find a good vet. Networking online is the best thing to do when trying to find a specialist near you.

Ferrets are very social creatures who develop close relationships with their humans. It is important they have companionship when your not around. They can even die from depression caused from loneliness. Ferrets THRIVE with a friend (or 2, or more!). When your not around you don't have to worry about your baby being home alone and lonely. There are also so many things a human can't do that another ferret can. You can never wrestle with them, chase them through tubes, or cuddle with them in a hammock. They live longer, happier, healthier lives with a buddy.

It's ideal if you can let ferrets free roam. Even if it's just a room (with time out of that room as well) If you must cage for part of the day the best cage is a Ferret Nation or Critter Nation. Anything smaller is just not enough room. They really need at least 2 solid floors to be able to stretch out on and relax on without fear of falling. Cages with just a bottom floor and floor panels not only do not have enough room, but are dangerous as a ferret could fall from the top to the bottom and break bones. Here, is the best cage you can get. It is well made, safe, easy to clean, and is the only cage on the market that's adequate amount of space.

there’s also different clear gates you can use to section off places or can even be put around a cage...

As for treats, raw meats, free dried treats, raw egg or just the yolks, or supplements such as salmon oil or Pickled Ferret Juice. Stay away from store bought supplements like ferretone, ferretive, ferretlax, ferrevite, they are all junk, salt, sugar, and bht a cancer causing preservative. There are some good freeze dried raw, I grind it up and make it into soupies...

Pickled Ferret Juice.

Salmon oil

No water bottles. Water bottles are intended for rodents. When ferrets are forced to chew on a metal rod they struggle just to get a drop and does permanent damage to their teeth. Like cats and dogs ferrets are naturally supposed to lap their water, and receive 60% more water intake when they are able to. Instead get a HEAVY bowl or one that can latch on to their cage.

Also no shredded bedding like you see them in at the petstore. Ferrets are prone to respiratory illness, the dust from those types of beddings can irritate their lungs and cause infection, also it can be ingested and cause a blockage. Ferrets are very clean animals and prefer blankets to cuddle in. Get lots of blankets (even an old t- shirts or sweaters will do)

Don't bathe more than twice a year. Bathing strips ferrets of their natural oils, therefore they have to overcompensate by making more and smelling worse. I prefer baby shampoo. Ferrets who enjoy water or have itchy skin can benefit from oatmeal baths, as long as soap isn't use it can be done more frequently.

Ferrets also need their nails trimmed (typically once a month) and should have their teeth brushed weekly.

u/Luvlitchi · 6 pointsr/LilGrabbies

Wow that's a lot of chew marks on the bars. OP please get your baby a bigger cage ♡ This is my personal fave but bin cages are also super cheap.

Prevue 528

u/loz_christ · 5 pointsr/chinchilla

Remove the ramps and mid part.
Add kiln-dried pine shelves.

You got yourself a chin cage.

The bars are sturdy and thick.
It can hold a chin spin like no tomorrow so your chins can run fast as lightning at 3am with no fright that the bars will give out.

Got difficulty with their superchin teeth because they’re biting and bending the bars?
No sir their mastermind plans for escape are foiled today. These bad boys aren’t bending one stinking bit!

It’s pricey. But knowing how long chinchillas live, you’ll have this baby well over a decade.

slaps roof of car
Great investment.

u/iwasntprepared · 5 pointsr/ferrets

Playtime fine i just think they need a little more room that way they can have space for themselves.

MidWest Deluxe Ferret Nation Double Unit Ferret Cage (Model 182) Includes 2 leak-Proof Pans, 2 Shelves, 3 Ramps w/Ramp Covers & 4 locking Wheel Casters, Measures 36" L x 25" W x 62.5" H Inches

u/Shercock_Holmes · 5 pointsr/ferrets

If you can afford this one and have room for it, get it. I will never, ever own another cage - it is the awesome. (Especially after owning a dinky "Super Pet - My First Home".

They also have a single story version as well.


  • Easy to clean/get ferrets out due to the double doors
  • Lots of room for playtime in the cage, just in case you can't take them out one day
  • Easy to hang up hammocks and toys on the bars
  • Bottom pans come out for scrubbing and covering in fleece
  • Extremely sturdy, I doubt I'll ever have to get another cage
  • Good door closing mechanism, ferrets can't escape
  • Under the cage storage


  • Takes up a bit of room(particularly vertically)
  • Shelves and pans need to be covered in fleece. The shelves have a little groove on the edge nails could get stuck in.
  • Really fucking heavy. I had to take mine up stairs the last time I moved
  • You need a tube or stairs to allow the ferret to get in and out of his cage on his own. I use a pair of doggy stairs.
u/Theaty · 5 pointsr/Rabbits

I have a huge outdoor set up that i move inside when its winter...they sleep in their cage(which is the largest one on sale on amazon) during the times im gone or sleeping

u/CheesyChips · 5 pointsr/hamsters

Oh my. The wheel is worse than I first thought!

8" is way too small, do you see his back is arched? It should be completely straight or he will get back problems.

This wheel is probably the worst on the market not just because of size!

The metal rungs and bad on hammys feet and can cause a condition called bumble foot, which gives the ham sore swollen feet. All wheels and all walking surfaces of a cage should be solid. No metal bars.
Also hammy could get his leg caught between the metal bars and might break his leg, at worst it might have to be amputated.

The way the stand goes though the middle and back and down on either side isn't so good either! Hammy can hurt himself there too! If he gets caught there while the wheel is spinning the metal side bars could cause real issues, even death.

Wheels should be 12" for Syrians (minimum!), it should be solid with a solid running area and have a back to it.

How much do you want to spend? You can buy a relatively large wheel for cheapish but it might get squeeky! Which really does get annoying. Believe me!
I spent around £25 on my hamster's 12" silent spinner. I know that sounds expensive, but to me it's worth it!


Let me link you some different wheels that will be ok, of varying price and quality, but all safe and suitable, It's up to you to pick which one you would like following the rules.

Kaytee 12" basic

I have this silent spinner 12"

Sorry it's a UK link, but this is an idea for a style of wheel

These ones from Etsy are available in the USA and people really like them

The right size silent spinner at PetSmart


So remember the three rules!

  1. Solid (no wire)

  2. Size (12")

  3. Safe (needs a solid back to the wheel and suitable stand)


    Hope this helps!
u/suzepie · 5 pointsr/chinchilla

When we decided to upgrade cages for our guys, we went with the Midwest Critter Nation double unit. It's made by the same folks who make the Ferret Nation and is almost identical, except that the bars have less space between them and run horizontally rather than vertically, making them better for smaller animals and easier to add accessories to.

It's been absolutely tremendous for them. One of our boys, Harvey, is also missing one of his front paws, and he runs about without any trouble. The Critter Nation has two main levels and two "half" levels, all of them solid and of a hard plastic that the boys haven't tried to chew on (I know, amazing - but there doesn't seem to be any reason to swap them out for metal, surprisingly). The ramps that reach from level to level come with fleece covers, so there's no chance of a paw slipping between rungs.

Here's a pic of the boys giving the Critter Nation a test drive before we moved them in. They've been in it for several months now and absolutely love it.

We had planned on buying ours through, then found one in our local PetSmart at an amazing price one day and brought it home, just like that. (Someone must have bought it online and returned it to the store or something - I don't think they usually carry them in-store, so we lucked out and didn't have to pay for shipping!)

Anyhow, I highly recommend this model for your three chinchillas. It has plenty of room for living, sleeping, and exercising and is safe for the boy with the missing paw. It was the best decision we ever made for our chins. :)

u/NatashaWright · 5 pointsr/RATS

I'm so happy for you :)! Are all 6 already friends? If yes you wouldn't want tot separate them!

The best cage for me is the Double Critter Nation. Here is a link if you are in the USA:

I've got 2 of them and they are perfect :)! Big, easy to clean, sturdy, pretty much chew proof!

u/PingPing88 · 5 pointsr/Hedgehog

I know stuff! I'm surprised no one has responded in the last 3 hours, the wheels are really popular. I got one to replace my silent spinner because the silent spinner wasn't so silent.

Carolina Storm Wheel

Fence, I ordered 2 myself for a large play area

u/Avii_Jade · 5 pointsr/hamsters

If you want to stick with wire cages then this cage Prevue Pet Products 528 Universal Small Animal Home, Dark Gray is acceptable.

There are some others that are good too. Victoria Raechel has a video on good wire cages for hammies.

Doing a diy bin cage is inexpensive too!

If you can find a used aquarium on fb or Craigslist then that is good as well. I'd suggest a 40gal breeder or larger. I keep my Syrian in a 75gal aquarium and my robo is in a 55gal aquarium.

u/iMoosker · 4 pointsr/hamsters

Hey your ham and I have the same cage! She seems almost disappointed that you would disturb her in her mansion.

u/nthny · 4 pointsr/RATS

Rats are wonderful little companions, and fairly easy to care for. Keep them happy and healthy, and they'll repay you by loving you like crazy.

This is a good guide that will help you understand what your rats are doing and why, and explains some of the ways rats communicate with each other and with you.

Here's a list of foods that are safe to give to your rats. Enriching your rats' diet with fresh fruits and vegetables is important to their health, and they love it. If you buy packaged treats from the store, make sure you get one that doesn't contain dried corn, as that can be harmful.

For their food, I recommend Oxbow brand. It's very good nutritionally, and my girls love the taste. For two rats, one bag will usually last several weeks.

For their cage, you'll want something that gives them plenty of space to go about their business. Generally, the rule is 2 cubic feet per rat. So for two, try to find something that's at least 4 cubic feet. Use paper bedding as opposed to wood shavings, as wood shavings can cause respiratory problems.

You should also get some accessories for the cage to keep them entertained, such as a house, a hammock, things to climb, and some toys. All can be found at most pet stores and is pretty inexpensive.

If you decide to go for it, I think you'll be very happy with rats. And if you do, be sure to share a picture of your new babies with us here!

u/K8af48sTK · 4 pointsr/RATS

As /u/Sykirobme mentioned, I would suggest using a prepared food as a base diet and adding a supplemental vegetables on top of that.

I haven't had a lot of experience getting rats to change diets, but we adopted an older male a couple of years ago who had no real problem with the switch.

Us: Oh yeah, all of ours love Cheerios as a treat!

Previous Owner: No, all he eats is Cheerios.

Us: Oh ...

Even though he had been fed only plain Cheerios for over a year, it only took a few days to convince him to try triangles (Oxbow Regal Rat Food). After he realized that other foods existed, he even started turning down Cheerios in favor of fruit and vegetable treats. (The other rats thought he was insane and were happy to take the extra Cheerios.)

u/PartyHawk · 4 pointsr/sugargliders

The cage it's self is oookay? It's kind of a small price jump from that one to the Critter Nation cage which is pretty much the best cage you can get besides making a crazy huge custom one so to me I'd just save a bit more and get the creme of the crop cage.

The wheel in the listing you've provided is dangerous for glider tails, most owners prefer the "stealth wheel". I have a stealth wheel and my gliders LOVE it, they are constantly playing on it. When I looked up the kind I had it was no longer available and it seems they've made a new version which is the one I've linked, I can't speak for it's quality as I don't have that model but it looks like the same and better plus less bulky then mine. I'm totally going to get one now that I know they exist haha

I don't know what the food they've shown is but if anyone tells you you can get by feeding gliders with only pellet food and no fresh fruits or meal worms they're trying to sell you something!

Good luck on your glider journey!

u/invudontseeme · 4 pointsr/ferrets

I would recommend a cage that is both long and wide rather than tall. While tall is nice so that they can have fun climbing, it is more important that they have wiggle and walking room. A cage with a larger area per floor will allow a lot more room to run, stretch, and play.

The best cages to buy are the ferret/critter nation cages. They are wide and long which allows plenty of room. If you're on a budget, a single layer will cost you about $150-$200, but it's well worth it. It comes with a base floor for your fuzzbutts along with a shelf for them to climb onto. Here's a link to it on Amazon:

If you have a bit more money to spend, I recommend going with the same thing, but the two layer cage. This will give them double the play room and satisfy their need to climb and explore. It's also not too tall, so you don't have to worry about them falling/jumping off. Here's a link to that one.

I, myself, purchased the double layer cage along with an extra "attachment" layer on the top. I dedicated the bottom cage to pooping/eating, the middle layer to playing, and the top to sleeping. It takes up a good amount of space in my room (being a bit over 7 feet tall with all three layers), but my three carpet sharks love it, and it's got the durability to last you a lifetime. (:

I hope I've helped! Let me know if you have any more questions or concerns, and I would be happy to help the best I can!

u/Bootrats · 4 pointsr/ferrets

Ferret Nations/Critter Nations (they're the same thing, just different bar spacing) are both really good cages, I highly recommend them. The doors open up all the way allowing an easy clean. It's a little pricey but definitely worth it.

u/HedwigMalfoy · 4 pointsr/hamsters

Nope! I wouldn't do that at all. My vet told me that it has to be pet bathing sand. The dyes in the colored sand or the grain of it may irritate their little hamster skin.
Here are a couple of links to sand options I found on Amazon:

u/Mastershroom · 4 pointsr/guineapigs

The cost of a C&C cage can vary a whole lot depending on where you get your materials. Some places, sign stores will sell a lot of Coroplast for next to nothing, other places charge way more. A pre-cut C&C kit from guineapigzone, for example, might cost $80-$100 depending on size, and includes everything needed, including the coroplast already cut and scored appropriately, all the grids, connectors and zip ties. Other people have said they've gotten all the materials for under $30 total.

If you do want a pre-made cage, the Midwest Guinea Pig Habitat is about as good and cost-effective as it gets:

That Midwest cage is between a 2x3 and 2x4 in terms of C&C dimensions, so it's good for one or two piggies. It's $35 on Amazon, which is a pretty good deal, considering pet stores generally have way smaller cages for way more money.

I bought one of those pre-cut C&C kits for a 2x4 cage with a 2x1 loft and ramp. Personally, I think it was worth the extra cost because I didn't have to measure or cut anything, just put it together, which took about half an hour. It's been a very nice and reliable cage so far, and I highly recommend C&C. But if you want the convenience of a brand-name cage, the Midwest is pretty much the only way to go.

u/PoppySeedK · 4 pointsr/RATS

Get lava ledges and defintely get a Sputnik. You'll see a lot of posts on here of ratties in their sputnik. They love them!

u/kidneysforsale · 4 pointsr/RATS
  1. Do they NEED it? Eh, maybe not. Will they probably want it at some point, I wouldn't be surprised! You're fine for now, but in the long term, I'd recommend if you can, 1) the sputnick/space pod - fairly inexpensive and beloved by rats EVERYWHERE; and 2) making some more hammocks. It sounds like you're planning on using fleece, and it's really easy to make no-sew hammocks. Since the bra-mock is gonna get peed (they will all get peed on), you'll probably want a few more so that you can rotate them in and out.

  2. Rats are pretty good about monitoring their own eating habits. They also like to stash it away, so it can be difficult always to tell exactly how much they've eaten vs hidden. My 2 girls get a ~full bowl (which is a heaping 1/4 cup scoop that I use for their food) between the two of them daily. Some days they finish it all, some days theres a bit left. Often I'll dump some food out when I empty their box (cause they like to eat where they poop). Also, its too many treats if they either start to gain weight or if they eat less of their food because they are full/to accustomed to treats and thus loose nutrition. Overall, you want to use moderation. Some treats you can be more free with than others; baby puffs are popular as training treats because I guess they are low-calorie (and presumably low in sugar) so you can give a fair amount of them. I've never used them, but I've read it several times.

  3. Binder clips are popular across the board, but the answer to this question will depend a bit on what kind of cage you're using.

  4. I would say, regardless of the amount of time that has passed, follow their lead. If on day 1, they seem interested in you and will sniff your hand or even climb onto it, full steam ahead! And if you have a convenient place to let them run where you can be sure they won't get away, go for it. But if say on day 4, they're still don't seem to want to take a treat from you, just keep at it and you can look up some stuff about trust training timid rats, and spend a lot of time around them/their cage regardless. Since they are coming from the breeder as you said, they are probably going to be a bit more similar to the first example than the second. Either way, go slow, use food to get to their hearts, and don't be discouraged.

  5. As long as they get their out time and have toys/things to explore and play with wherever they get it, they should be fine without free run of a room. I would mainly say that whatever room they are in, you'll want "rat proofed" to the degree that in the event someone escapes from the bed (or wherever), there isn't anywhere they could get to that would be an instance emergency (like an open door to the rest of the apartment or a hole in the floor to a crawl space, etc).

  6. Well, for starters, they likely wouldn't forget you any more from being handled by another individual in your absence than they would without the handling. That being said, they also won't forget you over that time span regardless of being handled or not. Overall, they will be much happier the more they are handled so that is the goal! That's always the goal.

  7. Play it by ear. I've never had boys, only girls, who still pee everywhere but not quite as much. If it seems smelly, try cleaning it off and if it still seems smelly, toss it. It's possible they just won't ever pee on it, or its possible it will be their favorite thing to pee on and have to be replaced constantly.

  8. For the same reason you are asking about changing out the wooden toys, I would avoid having a permanent wooden fixture of any kind in the cage. At least not one that you aren't okay with tossing after some period of time. For something in the cage, I'd recommend sticking with a plastic container or cardboard that will get thrown away when the cage gets cleaned. It's not too uncommon for people to make dig boxes with shredded paper or cardboard or fleece for their rats, which is basically what this sounds like. If you like the wooden box you are planning on using, I'd say save it for out time and do that same thing. Or fill it with like... misc wooden blocks or whicker balls or some people use pingpong balls (but they get chewed up), and have a little ball pit thing.

    Sorry for the length! I get a bit wordy with my answers!
u/caffeinatedecologist · 4 pointsr/RATS

spiral bird rope

bendy bird rope

wooden bridge

Sputnik/space pod

foraging toy

wooden climbing platforms

2-pack lava ledges

foraging wheel

Also a good idea might be to look up some rat safe treat recipes and make a little ratty goodie bag for them (banana chips, oats, dried pasta, certain seeds, etc.)

u/NortonCdJ · 4 pointsr/hamsters

I got it from Amazon as a add on item, Prevue Pet Products Multi-Color Small Pet Playpen 40090 its good already by itself, but I bought 2 of these so I can go in with her :D its really big when you get 2 of the fences I'm 5'3" and I only took about 1/4 of the space there was! Hope that was a good review lol sorry

u/EmmaAlreadyReddit · 4 pointsr/Rabbits
u/callmetenno · 3 pointsr/sugargliders

This cage is more expensive ($250 before tax + shipping), but it is probably the best cage on the market for gliders. Out of the box its perfect. Horizontal bars, lots of space. shelves. LARGE doors. Its even modular, you can add more sections on.

u/PlantyHamchuk · 3 pointsr/RATS

This is from a link in the sidebar - - there's tons of more helpful links there

Just so you know, you want a bigger cage, not smaller. Most people here save up for the biggest cages they can afford. One of the most popular ones I see here is the tall 63" Critter Nation - - sometimes they can be found used on Craigslist for cheaper.

Keeping rats in cages that are too small is cruel and inhumane, and you'll end up with very sick, stressed, and miserable animals.

While you're in the research stage, it'll be helpful to look up the vets in your area, to see if there's any who specialize or have knowledge rats/small animals. HTH

u/aurons_girl · 3 pointsr/guineapigs

It's not glass but I have this cage:
Guinea Habitat Guinea Pig Cage by MidWest, 47L x 24W x 14H Inches
You can also look into making a c&c cage for some ideas.
But that cage fits perfectly on our coffee table.
And we have a small apartment. I wind up spot cleaning the areas where they pee 2 or 3 times a week to cut back on odors. Doesn't take very long. And once a week I use a deodorizing cage spray to spray down the bottom of the cage to get rid of any lingering odors.

u/Janic357 · 3 pointsr/guineapigs

I know others have said this but the wire floor is bad for their feet which is probably why he doent leave much. It sounds like he is depressed. Does he have a friend? It is a myth that boys cant live together. If you wanted to get him a friend all you really have to do is get a baby and make sure they have a cage that fits the minimum (8sq feet) the midwest cage is great for this. I will leave a link to it.

Also look up c and c cages these are also great.

Hope that helps.
Also I agree with others that guinea pigs need alot of space but it is all ground level space one level is best .

u/niaise1234 · 3 pointsr/guineapigs

definitely bigger, i agree with the other posts that C&C cage is the best option but do be careful with small piggies and the size of the grids. midwest habitat’s are really good as well though and you could always expand them

u/thefriendliest · 3 pointsr/guineapigs

The cage is too small. With boy pigs, you should have 10 square feet, but to do that you have to build a C&C cage.

Here's some info on cage sizes:

And here's where they have their kits you can buy:

I have been making do with 8 square feet. Specifically, with the Midwest cage, which I bought through the rescue when I adopted my boys. I do want to get a bigger cage in the next few months, since my schedule has changed and I can't give them 3-4 hours of playtime every day anymore. But this is a better size than what you have and likely less money, and you can combine two to make a really big cage if you have enough floorspace.

What is your mom's specific reason for not wanting two guinea pigs? If it's expense, having two does not change the costs very much at all. If it's worry they won't bond with people, they still will. But people can't spend ALL their time with guinea pigs, and a cagemate will be there at all times and know how to speak guinea pig language. Pigs are happier, healthier, and braver with friends around. If it's that they won't get along, Hamlet should be fine with a boy from the same litter. OR you could still contact a guinea pig rescue and see if they do guinea pig dates, which is when you bring in your guinea pig and they put him with one of their guinea pigs in a neutral space to see if they'll get along. Note: They probably won't let you adopt a pig friend for Hamlet unless you can prove you have a big enough cage.

Even if you don't adopt from them, a local guinea pig rescue can be a good resource to tell you what vets they recommend and how to do certain things. Mine does nail trimmings, boar cleanings and simple health checks for free.

If your mom absolutely won't let you get a second pig, keep a close eye on Hamlet and see if he acts lethargic or depressed. He could get depression without a pig buddy, and there's nothing you can do to fix that except find him a friend.

Guinea pigs will pee during floortime, since they can only hold it for 10 minutes or so. Put stuff down to protect your floor, like fleece over a showercurtain. If you're doing laptime, they might get squirmy or start nibbling on you to tell you they need to go pee. They don't really like peeing on you, but accidents happen.

Good luck and enjoy Hamlet! Do your best to get him a bigger cage and a buddy. He'll be much healthier and happier with both. :)

u/jerjerjerjerjer · 3 pointsr/guineapigs

I haven't got any experience with the cage you have, but it looks like a decent enough size for two females (I think nearly 8 sq feet?). I have two of these and I like them a lot.

However, with both cages, you are going to go through a LOT of paper bedding (I don't recommend any type of wood, generally). I go through 30 litres per cage, so basically one large bag of carefresh per week. If I didn't work at a pet store I don't think I could afford it. Because of the size, I'd recommend fleece bedding (with a u-haul moving blanket underneath). It's a bit more work, as you have to sweep it or shake it off every day, but it's so much more cost efficient.

As for the food, excellent choice :) Just check their bedding for any white urine residue - it means they're getting too much calcium in their diet, which is a common issue with the Ox Bow. I still like it better than other brands. I use their timothy hay as well as it seems to be the highest quality that I can find reliably. You can order it in 9 pound and 50 pound boxes on Amazon as well.

The only other thing I can think of to recommend at the moment is to have two water bottles and two food bowls. You don't want them fighting over resources. I'd recommend something like this for hay because it holds a lot more than most hay feeders I've seen.

Hope I've answered a few questions and good luck with the new piggies! They are amazingly fun little animals.

u/leaping-elk · 3 pointsr/Pets

Hey! Sounds like you have definitely started on some good research! Your mom should not have to worry about rabies with your hedgie, unless it has access to wildlife, like raccoons and possums. Your hedgie should be kept indoors or supervised when outside, so I can't forsee there being any issues. A lot of people build their own cages, but I prefer this one here. In fact, that is the type of cage I have had since I got mine five years ago. I would recommend, however, that you use fleece blankets to line the cage instead of woodchips. I don't forsee it being a problem with a female, but a male hedgehog can absolutely get woodchips stuck in their penile shafts. Mine is blind, so his cage is pretty bare, but for a healthy hedgie, I would keep a wheel, an igloo or something for him to hide in, toys (I used kitty kongs, and little jinlgy cat toys that looked like ping pong balls).

There are a lot of good resources on this website. It has everything from what to feed, how to build cages, veterinarians that have knowledge of hedgies in your area, and the like.

The biggest key is to give your hedgie lots of time to adjust to you and warm up to you. Some of them take a lot of time to be socialized, and sometimes it just isn't going to happen. Some of them just have a pretty grumpy disposition. I bathe mine every couple of months, but I let him walk around in some warm water more frequently than that to wash off his "poopy boots".

I feed mine cat food (Purina One Chicken & Rice), but there are a variety of options. You can treat them with mealworms and other little snacks. Hedgehog Central really was the most useful source for me, though, when I was considering purchasing my baby.

u/StargateGuy · 3 pointsr/RATS

MidWest Critter Nation Single Level, two level optional depending on budget.

u/dottieblue · 3 pointsr/RATS

Hi there. Congratulations on your new boys! I love Rex rats! I've been a ratty mom for over 12 years. I currently have 3 males, all dumbos, one of which is a Rex. The best advice I can give is to make sure to socialize your new babies and let them get used to you, your environment, as well as each other. (I'm glad to hear you got more than one!) Pouches are a great start for that, so you are definitely on the right track. I love playing around and interacting with my boys, but I also make sure to sit back and let them explore on their own, too.

Having a good cage is crucial. I recently got space pods and they love them! Having it be plastic instead of fabric cuts down on smell, too. I always make sure they have a bunch of things to chew on and play with. Make sure they have good bedding as well. I use recycled newspaper and crinkle paper.

Diet plays a big role. I feed my guys mostly Mazuri blocks and Oxbow with some vegetables (they love broccoli and frozen peas). I try to stay cognizant of treats, since they're mostly sugar and fat. (Males are prone to weight gain, so you gotta watch out.) Fruits work really well as a treat for training.

If you have any questions as you guys get adjusted, feel free to PM me.

(Also, sorry all the hyperlinks are to Amazon haha. It's what Google pulls up.)

Congratulations again :)

u/LaTortugaConQueso · 3 pointsr/RATS

One thing I do for my rats is give them empty pop cases. They absolutely love nesting in them and it costs me nothing. I change it out probably once a week. Another thing you could get is a space pod. Most rats love them and they're versatile, you can hang them upside down if you want. I also give my rats children's wooden blocks and popsicle sticks to chew on. And I've done things like filling penny rolls with treats and closing them up and giving that to them, or the sock pinata method where you hang an old sock somewhere they can barely reach it, and fill it with treats. Also it doesn't look like you have anything for them to nest with, getting a yard of fleece from the craft store and cutting it up will do wonders, or giving them tissue paper to tear up and nest with.

u/Islanderrufus · 3 pointsr/hamsters

I had such a hard time trying to find a large wheel! What I did was go on Amazon. Com instead of ca and bought a Trixie wheel. The 29cm one. It was 18$ shipping but the wheel itself was only 9 which still made it cheaper then the ones I could find on the Canadian amazon (couldn't find any under 50).
Ill try to send link :

Also the strong brew hamstery in Ontario (? I think it was) makes really nice homemade ones but when I messaged she had a lot of orders already and there's a long wait list, not sure on the price. Just look up strong brew hamstery bucket wheels, they are on Facebook.

u/Lisa831 · 3 pointsr/Hedgehog

We have a playpen meant for small animals that Heddie goes in. She decided to go exploring inside of a chair one time and it was ridiculous trying to get her out (especially because she was getting angry and very pokey). We actually bought two of them so she could still have a lot of room, and that has worked out well. She's actually in it in my office right now, so she's well contained and playing with her paper towel tube, but it's also a change of scenery from running on her wheel all morning.

u/ZeligCromwell · 3 pointsr/Rabbits

It's [living world] ( 3-in-1 interactive and educative toy, if I translate roughly from my language.

u/sierramarie3992 · 3 pointsr/guineapigs

You could try hiding bits of veggie in things (like a toilet paper tube with the ends folded in) and let them try to get it out. Or something like this the guinea pig has to lift the top off with his/her mouth to get the veggie or treat out. This one requires the pig to push the lids off around the circle to get the treat. I haven't tried these yet but I really want to! From my experience, guinea pigs are only motivated to do things if food is involved lol.

u/llamalena · 3 pointsr/RATS

One of my favorite thing to put out in the rat room has been this toy: It's a learning toy with three different levels of difficulty for them to master finding treats in! Some rats will get all 3 levels right away, while others will struggle at even the basic level. It's both fun for them to improve their problem solving skills and fun for you to watch!

I also create nesting spots and hang hammocks around the room, so they can go lounge wherever. If you plan to give them long periods of time in the room with the cage open, it might also be a good idea to get a litter box for a corner or two.

They also make rat-sized ball pits. Some rats seem to love playing in them, while others are indifferent or afraid, so YMMV. Worst case scenario, the plastic balls can make for a good game of fetch. For a more DIY-approach, you can buy PVC tubing from a hardware store to create mazes and tunnels around for them to run through and hide in.

u/InfintySquared · 3 pointsr/hamsters

I can't recommend the Silent Spinner brand enough. They have a ball-bearing axle, so they really ARE silent. And they're in most pet stores. Here's the requested Amazon link.

Minor issue: If you have a cage that will hold the twelve-inch model, GET THAT ONE. It will be more comfortable for the larger Syrian. The 6.5" model isn't bad, but I'd prefer at least an 8" wheel so his back won't arch as much.

Wodent Wheel also makes a ball-bearing axled silent wheel that does come in an 8" size, which fits in most fishtank cages, but isn't in any local pet stores in my area. Though since /u/queserasera_ is specifically asking for Amazon links, it's worth mentioning.

I don't have direct experience with the Wodent Wheel brand, but I have friends who love it. I do have direct experience with Silent Spinners, and I love it. They work. Get the largest one that will fit in your cage.

u/lizzi00 · 3 pointsr/hamsters

Love her color makes her look like a teeny Syrian! She’s a dwarf so I don’t think I need to say anything about a wheel just don’t go super tiny. Make sure she has a proper size cage. Big cages are the best make sure its atleast 24” length 12” width and 12” height. Clear bins are good for you too see her I’d recommend! Cut holes in her lit so she can breath and can’t escape, either cut 60+ half an inch holes or cut a big square off the lid (if you have a cat or curious dog do the hole lid) do not use pine or cedar bedding. Any paper bedding is good I recommend carefresh (Cheaper on Amazon) do not use mesh wheels!!! Your ham will get hurt and get bumble feet not good. No bathing in water. It’s not necessary but it’s highly recommend to get sand for your hamster to bathe in, she’ll either roll around in it herself or you can hold her and give her a sand bath. I like most plastic wheels, wouldn’t recommend wooden wheels for a dwarf since my friend has a wooden wheel for her ham and he can’t even move it so she had to pay for a plastic one. Chews are good for her teeth so they don’t grow too long. Clip her nails if you can, if you can’t go to a vet when you notice them getting long. Plastic tubes and empty paper tubes are good boredom breakers. Clean the cage fully once a month with a one part water one part vinegar solution and change the bedding monthly. Lastly a hideout so she can scurry away. I’ll leave some links, good luck!

hamster care video

bin cage tutorial

If she’s not tame here’s a taming vid

hamster dont’s





boredom breaker/hideout


bin for bin cage

mesh top for bin cage

zip ties for bin cage


u/Floonet · 3 pointsr/RATS

I want to say thank you for being receptive to rattit's collective knowledge.

Definitely agree with all that was said by /u/durshka

To add to what has been said:

I'm not sure what country you are in, but in the US there are some great rat feeds. It's crucial you give them this, because rats will pick through seeds and take the carb/sugar loaded things over the protein vitamin stuff. (they are like people)

Oxbow is pretty standard and they look like this you do not want to get stuff like this as their main feed. They will pick through all the good bits (pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, peanuts, dried peas) and leave the fiber which they need. I do have a bag of this and use it as treats!

PLENTY OF FRESH VEG! also remember to wash the veg and fruit off well if you are going non-organic. Pesticides are truly harmful especially to rats which in comparison to us are TINY!

Give them a bit of chicken or tuna etc from time to time. I usually share what I'm eating with them if it's healthy.

Another good treat (and a good way to administer medicine if ever needed) is baby food. Mine love the sweet potato, squash, peas one!

When picking out a cage try and get one with at least 2 floors. Meaning they can climb and have different areas. Rats are super smart, and need space to keep it interesting. Also make sure the flooring of the shelves and ramps is not wired steel, and that it has plating. The bottom can be as long as you have enough bedding on the bottom. Rats can get bumblefoot from wired flooring.

A CAGE LIKE THIS IS IDEAL it's tall rather than wide, which they love!

u/CrmdZillaDeeKilla · 3 pointsr/RATS

I share my morning oatmeal with him and he loves almonds but I can not get him to eat any fruit... He absolute favorite treat is kale though. This is the food he eats is it good?

u/rmarkham · 3 pointsr/hamsters

Petco is having a dollar/gallon sale! Aquariums are great for hamsters. A 40 gallon would give plenty of room for fun! Come visit us at /r/hamstercare there are a few hamster experts over there who will have tons of advice!


I don't think the new cage meets the minimum square footage, I'd definitely go with an aquarium. The minimum size for a hamster is the size of a 20G long. A 40 gallon would be perfect!

Edit: Have you tried a flying saucer or even a wooden wheel? The metal wheels tend to have small holes in them and that can be dangerous for hamster feet. (make sure the wheel is at least 8.5 inches in diameter, 12 is better for most syrian hams)

I don't think most hamsters will drink from a bowl of water. What kind of bottles have you tried?

Do you have plenty of toys and other things for the ham to chew on? Have you tried cardboard tubes? Mine go nuts for some cardboard! Normally when a ham is bar chewing it's a sign of boredom, have you tried having some time in a playpen?

If you do get an aquarium you can attatch it to the glass on the inside using velcro tape. (I use the glass bottles with a flat back)

u/NotFuckingHappy · 3 pointsr/RATS
u/urbanmutt · 3 pointsr/RATS

Common cages you’ll see recommended are the Critter Nation and Martin’s cages. For a good quality, new cage you can probably expect to pay around $110 to $250. Most people on this forum are huge CN fans - it’s a HUGE cage, with wide/accessible doors, and is basically a sturdy free-standing piece of furniture. You can get a single unit now, and if you end up getting more rats (which you very well might!) you can get an add-on unit! Potential downsides to the CN are the lack of deep pans (you basically have to use fleece, or create/buy deep pans). It’s extremely heavy, and takes up a lot of floor space. Even though the wide doors make it easy to reach inside, it is filled with hollow parts that trap water and easily rust. In order to deep clean it, you’ll have to take it apart, clean, and dry each component - you shouldn’t just hose it down.

I currently have a Martin’s Cage, and I do love it. You should get an R-680 or larger and get the powder coated version. I love the deep pan for bedding, how light/transportable it is, the fact it doesn’t take up my limited floor space, and especially that I easily rinse it in my shower and don’t worry about rust. I don’t have a washing machine so using fleece would end up being pretty pricey.


If you are thinking of using fleece, don't really need to frequently transport the cage, or will likely get many rats, then CN might be the best way to go for you! For my situation the Martin's Cage is working wonderfully :)

u/Eulaliaaa · 3 pointsr/RATS

The critter nation single unit is pretty cheap on amazon, and free shipping if you have prime. Only a little more than your budget, but worth it I'd say! Great quality and lasts forever.

Sometimes has it for around 100, the price goes up and down randomly.

u/ThatPurpleDrank · 3 pointsr/RATS

This would be a much more suitable cage for three rats as it's made of metal but the base is easy to remove for cleaning as is the shelf. It's actually the cage I have for my 3 boys and they enjoy it. Eventually I'd recommend maybe expanding it to include the top cage as well so they have even more room to move around if possible. Also, the bonus of this cage is that there is a shelf below it where you can store things. Just make sure that you aren't storing food down there because they will eat it. My husband also made a little ramp out of a piece of wood he covered in felt so that when we let our boys out they can come and go out of their cage as they please. Also, we use felt rather than fluff for their cage (mainly because one of our rats is allergic to most fluff) because it's so much easier to change. We change the felt and do a full wipe down of the cage with soap and water/disinfecting wipes every 3 or 4 weeks but with cleaning up/picking up poops/emptying their poop pan every couple of days. We use a shallow and small brownie pan for a poop pan and stick it to the floor with magnets. That way it's easy for us to remove but they can't push it around or flip it over.

You can get a bowl and water bottle at petco. They're not expensive. Make sure that you get food blocks for them rather than a food mix. With a food mix they can pick and choose what they want to eat (such as just the seeds) whereas with food blocks they will get complete nutrition in one place. We keep the food blocks in our freezer to avoid any tiny bugs that may come join the bag (which happened in the past when we ordered a large 50 lb bag and kept it in a plastic container...big waste of money).

Most rats will not use that flying saucer. Also, they can be dangerous and ratties can hurt themselves on them. I would not recommend getting one.

If they fight I would just let them be unless they're really getting loud and squeaking a whole lot. Then break it up. Usually a "hey!" is enough to get them to stop. But if not then you can always poke them with your finger. Not hard. Just enough to take their attention off of each other. Fighting isn't always a bad thing. Sometimes ratties just do it for fun and it's more like wrestling even though it might look like fighting. It's also a way to establish pecking order/the alpha role.

You don't need to give them specific vitamins but there are several foods that you should never give to rats. There's actually quite a long list so make sure that you google it or use the links at the side of this subreddit. They will help you learn what is okay and what's not okay for them to eat. They will get all of their vitamins in the food blocks but rats do get bored easily so you need to make sure that you supplement with veggies and fruit. Also, yogies (yogurt drops) are a wonderful treat for rats. They LOVE them. You can find them at petco next to the rat food.

You should let them out daily or at the very least every couple of days to explore and run around. We let our rats out for a few hours a day. But please make sure that you have a specific area for them to explore and that there isn't anything around that can hurt them or that they can get into that they shouldn't. We like to let our rats run around our living room. We block off our kitchen door and our hallway door and let them run around and explore. Rats love to chew so try to keep an eye on them. Chewing is a natural thing though. They do it to keep their teeth at the right length. A good way to combat chewing is by making sure that they have enough toys and things to play with in and outside of their cage. That link to that little toy you put up is a great and fun thing for rats! They will destroy it in no time at all but they will immensely enjoy it. See the links at the side for more toy ideas or google some.

Rats do need bathes every now and again. It can be difficult though as most hate water. If you want to introduce your rats to water then use lukewarm water in your bathtub and put just enough in that part of the floor is covered but that there's still a dry area for them to go if they hate it. They may try to climb up your arms and claw the shit out of you like mine do and they may poop a bunch but don't be alarmed. Those are fear poops. Just scoop them out and continue on. Use just a dab of animal safe shampoo and wash them. Do not get their heads super wet. I usually just avoid their heads all together. It's going to be difficult to wash them if they hate the water but sometimes a full bath is really needed. Other times you can just use a warm, wet washcloth and wipe them down. If they hated the bath tub then there's a good chance they will hate the wet washcloth as well. We bathe our boys when they start to smell or just if it's been a while. So probably every 2-3 months. They are really not fans of water so we try to only bath tub bathe them if a wet washcloth won't do the trick. Just make sure that you have a fluffy dry towel to wrap them in once they are done so they can be nice and warm!

If you need any other advice please feel free to ask. Just make sure that you check out those links to the side and really really study up about how to properly care for a rat. Rats are amazing little creatures and are such fun pets but like any pet they do require care and love. So get as familiar as you can with proper care before you bring them home.

u/Muffikins · 3 pointsr/RATS

Hahaha! I have this cage, the Critter Nation Double Unit, and I leave the left hand side top and bottom open whenever I am in their room. They do this! Nothing like seeing 6 little rat noses trying to get your attention!

u/Sun_Queen · 3 pointsr/sugargliders

that is way to expensive for how small it looks (though I didnt see dimensions listed which is a huge red flag) also my gliders have NEVER had a problem with vertical bars in the 4 years I have had them.

If horizontal bars are a must for you there are much nicer cages with bars also the tunnels are pointless an
d there are much better ways to add environmental enrichment.

all of these cages are nice: <<the double critter nation is a good size and has horizontal bars

Also, knowing how shady pocket pets is I would never ever recommend supporting them.

u/LammergeierBirb · 3 pointsr/RATS

Can go wrong with a double critter nation cage. You can keep 4+ rats in one alone! My babies love it.


u/Raptorrocket · 3 pointsr/ferrets

That's the cage we have and our two love it. I agree that it's too rusty for him. Especially if he chews where it is rusted.

Also if you live near a Joan fabrics they usually have fleeces on sale. So you can get yards of cute patters for relatively cheap! We load them up with it so they have comfy little places to sleep when they don't feel like sleeping in their beds

u/Lostinlove678 · 3 pointsr/hamsters

We got this one.

Theres only 6 inches room in the bottom for bedding though. Its fine for our dwarf but there is still only 619 sq inches total floor space. Our dwarf is very happy in it, but for a syrian it still might not keep him/her happy. How long did you try the bigger bin cage and how large was it exactly?

u/Fear_The_Rabbit · 3 pointsr/hamsters

My hammy has this one. It’s not too expensive, has smaller space between the bars and more floor area than the one you posted.

Prevue Pet Products 528 Universal Small Animal Home, Dark Gray

u/fracturednebula · 3 pointsr/hamsters

His cage is the Prevue Pet 528 Small Animal Home, Dark Gray from Amazon. The tapered bottom of the cage is roughly 29"x16" at approximately 464 square inches at the smallest dimensions. He has tons of space which is why we went with that specific cage. Plus the second level which is an added 170 square inches. Chompy does have a bigger food bowl now!

u/SniffingDogButt · 3 pointsr/ferrets

Looking it to give the link for it realized they put it on sale already. Damnit lol

u/Franasaurus · 3 pointsr/hamsters

I would say oily. Get your hamster some bathing sand and he/she cleaned right up. DO NOT use dust as it can cause health issues.
A product I would recommend is or even some children's play sand but you'll have to bake that.

u/LadyofNightsong · 3 pointsr/hamsters

Here is a common one:

You could also look into children's play sand, which is cheap and comes in bulk... you would need to sterilize it in the oven first though.

u/TheWickedApple · 3 pointsr/hamsters

I'll take it out then. This sand I got from amazon had great reviews and after looking for so long I thought it would be good, since reviews state it is decent for hamsters of all sizes. Let me know?

u/cYzzie · 3 pointsr/hamsters

hard to say ... can certainly be a problem

just order chinchilla sand of the internet?

you should be able to get this in any petstore though.

u/kittenkyli · 3 pointsr/RATS

Here's a link! It's perfect for my two girls. Kaytee My First Home Multi-Level Habitat for Exotics, 30.5” x 18” x 30”

u/Lagomorphilic · 3 pointsr/RATS

Haha, if you end up getting males, I guarantee you will get used to the scrotums, don't worry! I personally feel males are better since females should be spayed for health reasons, while males only need to be neutered if they become aggressive. But that is just me.

I did a brief looksie into craigslist for St. Louis, and found a few contenders if you are willing to drive a little ways (all it looks like are under an hour assuming google maps isn't lying to me. These two seem like they would be good starter rats. Come with a decent cage (though it needs more decking out) and they are both very young.

This one is for a litter of babies. Sounds like it could have been an oops litter, but double check with them. You wouldn't want to support a backyard breeder.

Not sure about the circumstances regarding these rats.

It says this one appears to be the closest (20 minutes). 2 male rats.

There are other posts, but these stuck out to me. If none on craigslist speak to you, check out hoobly and bookoo as well.

u/centuriesluna · 3 pointsr/hamstercare

Depends on how much space you have. The min requirement is 450 sq. in. I’d recommend

Prevue Pet Products 528 Universal Small Animal Home, Dark Gray

Or any 110 qt plastic tote with either holes drilled in or hardware mesh and again there are tutorials on YouTube

u/cobaltgnawl · 2 pointsr/RATS

yeah its actually this cage here - at one point in the description it read it was for rats as well but has since been taken down :d - I got this about a month ago and the spacing between the bars is only like a 16th of an inch wider on the very outside bars and she knows that and I guess its just enough to let her through lol - so now im gonna have to get some smaller mesh stuff and wire over the whole cage I guess :/ I chose this cage because If I wanted to add another level to it later, it would be super easy - still a nice cage, maybe if I can fatten em up a little more she wont be able to make it through :)

u/TricoMusician · 2 pointsr/ferrets
  1. It depends on the person, I don’t think they smell too bad but my friend hates the smell of them. They just smell a bit musky. Feed them a good diet and clean their cage everyday and it’ll keep the smell down.
    How big is the apartment? Is their enough room for a cage like this-
    You’ll want a cage similar to this, there are some cheaper ones around.

  2. How big is the room? They don’t need a huge space but they do like to run and jump around, they also like to explore. So as long as there’s enough space for some toys and tunnels for them, they should be happy. Also you should get at least 2 ferrets as they are social animals and need a friend.

  3. They can be quite expensive, food can be a little pricey for the better quality stuff. You can try and litter train them and buy cat litter for them. You’ll also need blankets for them if you choose to use fleece for bedding.
    You should also keep back money for emergency vet visits, they can be expensive.

  4. Ideally they need to be out at least 4/5 hours a day. They also spend a lot of the day sleeping so it should be fine, as long as you let them out when you get back and maybe in the morning before you leave.

    I’m probably leaving a lot of stuff out so if you have any questions, feel free to ask :) I can suggest certain cages, toys, litter and so on...
u/Duskflight · 2 pointsr/gerbil

I use this brand of chinchilla sand and it works great. I put it in a pie tin and let the gerbils have fun in it either when I let them out of their tank to play or put it in there for a short time.

u/lyrebird626 · 2 pointsr/hamstercare

I like this one -, you can also get it for £3 at Pets at Home if you have one near you or want to order from them online.

u/Artemis7797 · 2 pointsr/hamsters

My ham loves his ball, he hops right in as soon as I put it in his cage. As for other toys, I had a piece of PVC pipe left over from a project that I gave him, and he likes to hide his food in there. I also have a little ceramic thing with some bathing sand (not dust, important distinction) in the bottom, he likes to roll around in it and kicks it out of his cage when he wants a fresh batch. This is the sand I use, and it's Prime eligible!

u/kahleesky · 2 pointsr/vegan

Hey! I've owned several rabbits for the past 5/6 years.

The other commenter covered a lot of things already, but I'd like to add that having a rabbit health kit is extremely important. Since rabbits are considered exotic and require a knowledgeable vet, it can be hard to get them in right away if they are having an emergency, so its always best to be prepared. Their digestive system is very fragile, and they can easily have blockages if they aren't eating enough hay or if they happen to get into something.
I suggest keeping some bene-bac on hand just in case.

Litter training can be hit or miss. Some rabbits will naturally want to go in one corner, while others tend to mark their entire enclosure. Spaying and neutering can help a lot, but it isn't a complete guarantee that they will become litter trained. My rabbit is neutered and mostly uses the box, but will occasionally leave poops elsewhere just because he feels like it.

While on the subject of litter, I highly suggest using wood stove pellets. You can get them at a hardware store for $5 for a huge bag. They're odorless and untreated so they're safe for rabbits. If you decide to go for a commercial rabbit litter I would stay away from anything with corn in it, because if your rabbit decides to eat it, it could easily cause a blockage and be fatal.

Also, stay away from foods that have a lot of corn and other fillers in it. I use Oxbow because they have a lot of high quality feed and treat options.

Feel free to PM me if you ever have questions. I love rabbits and always like to help. :)

Edit: I forgot to mention, this is the cage I use (as well as an x-pen around it). Its absolutely massive and much cheaper than anything you'd find at a pet store. Definitely recommend it.

u/Zertiri · 2 pointsr/Rabbits

I'm really happy with the cage my "little" guy is in, Extra Large Living World cage! Its the largest indoor cage I could find at the time, worked out perfect for my Mini Rex at his full adult size:

u/smitheroons · 2 pointsr/Rabbits

.1. Very young, probably a lionhead. A good rabbit-savvy vet will be able to give you a better age approximation. Check out the wiki for help picking out a good vet.

.2. It's likely that he's not old enough to potty train yet. When he is, check out the wiki for litter training advice. You will need a litter box (a medium cat one works well) and some rabbit-safe litter. I use Oxbow Eco-straw which can be ordered online from Amazon and most pet store websites. The easiest way to litter train a rabbit is to place the litter pan in the location they seem to pee most frequently. Then pick up stray poops/pee and put it in the litterbox and make sure to clean the other areas with white vinegar. If your rabbit chooses a different location to use the toilet, you are best off just moving the litterbox to that location. It's very difficult to get them to change their mind. Neutering will also help with litter habits once he's old enough.

Many rabbits "binky" when they are happy, but some do not. I generally consider a rabbit to be happy if they seem relaxed and unafraid. Some signs of this are exploring, telescoping (standing on hind legs), lying down in a "flopped" position (some rabbits flop all the way onto their sides, others prefer to lie on their bellies with their back legs sticking out). Some rabbits also express happiness by running around very fast.

Best to check out the wiki for instructions on picking up. Generally this should be avoided, but there are plenty of times where it's necessary.

You're unlikely to have much luck with a leash or harness. The rabbits that do well on these are the exception not the rule, but many rabbitors here are successful. I'd probably wait until he reaches adulthood for this though.

There are a lot of options for cages. I recommend this one for a single rabbit. While it's nice that some people can let their rabbits roam free, it's very difficult to 100% rabbit-proof. Do remember that they need plenty of time to run around and exercise. You wouldn't want to spend all day every day in your room and never come out, so make sure your bun gets to leave his. A big cage like this one is just fine though for when you are asleep or at school/work/etc. and can't be around to supervise.

.3. Do your research on the wiki, diet is very important, so is vet. This is my go-to hay supplier. I'd recommend starting with the sampler, then buying the larger boxes to save $$$. Also I see you've taken him outside for some grass. Be very careful to 1. watch out for hawks and other predators, never leave him unattended even for a minute and 2. don't let him eat anything that's been treated with pesticides or other stuff like that, could be very harmful.

Lastly, rabbits are very fragile animals. A lot of people on this sub jump to point out issues they see in pictures or questions because a lot of the time what seems like a little thing can be a very big problem for a rabbit. One good example is overfeeding of sweets. A rabbit can get sick and die from something as simple as eating too much carrot one night. So please, please, please, read up on stuff, do research, and if you aren't sure, ask or check for multiple good sources.

u/elessari · 2 pointsr/Rabbits

Ah, thank you for all this information! I appreciate it.

To answer your questions:

  1. I try to brush her every other day, but I increase that to every day if I find she's shedding a lot. In light of her GI issues, I also tend to spend time carefully removing matted fur from her underside where it's harder for her to clean.

  2. This may be a contributing factor, as I usually give her 1/2 cup of pellet food a day and her hay is fed to her through a trough on the side of her cage. It takes her about 2 days to go through the hay trough. I always refill it as soon as its empty. Sometimes she prefers to take the hay out to use as bedding around her cage, as well (I line the bottom of her cage with a soft towel/blanket, as the bottom of the cage is just plastic).

    Thank you for the lists, as well! I'm always looking for new foods that she might like. I heard kale was a rabbit's favorite, so I've been giving her that for a while now.

    I never knew about baby gas drops either, very good information to have! I still have her syringes from when she had severe GI stasis around in case I ever need them again.

    Her cage is the store bought, I bought the biggest I could find, which ended up being this. I removed the plastic insert with the stairs and made her a new hideaway in the cage that makes better use of space. My plan is to attach a dog play-pen sort of set up to the outside of the cage to expand her space, I've just been hemming and hawing over how best to get the set up working. Eventually I'd like to have a "bun room" that is all hers, but being in a studio for now if I can get a pen set up working for her I think she'll enjoy that.

    Right now I'm working remotely most days of the week, so she gets a lot of time during the day to be out of her cage, and I try to ensure that she has that!

    Thank you again for the advice!
u/LadyZanthia · 2 pointsr/RATS

Kaytee My First Home Multi-Level Habitat for Exotics, 30.5” x 18” x 30”

This cage is fantastic and very affordable. My 4 rats fit in one happily though I bought a second one that I’m going to modify to connect them together.

u/Snowsepps · 2 pointsr/RATS

It's a Kaytee my first home cage for exotic pets, I got it off Amazon actually! They sell it at petco too though if you have any of those in your area!

Here's a link to the amazon page

Edit: forgot to mention, I love this cage so far, it's perfectly sized for my girls to have plenty of room, and fits my tiny apartment well! I'd recommend it for sure.

u/IDKwhatisusername · 2 pointsr/PetMice

So I'm looking at cage options, the only issue is that I live in New Zealand so the options are super limited. I'm looking at three different options, one wire cage which will cost $50
This one from amazon which will cost $80
and this other one from amazon that will cost $220 but looks really good
As they currently only have males at the pet store, I will only be able to get one at this stage (or two if I buy a second cage). I am just wondering if it would be worth spending $200 for just one mouse, or if the $80 and $50 ones will be fine with some adjustments. I spent about $300 on a cage for my rats, so I'm not too worried about the cost. The cheaper options make it a lot easier for me to buy more than one cage, but I'm not sure if I have the space for two cages as I won't be able to put them right next to each other.

p.s I am a sucker for spending too much on my pets, pls help

u/garbagepilequeen · 2 pointsr/hamsters
  1. Prevue 528 - Over 568 square inches and bar spacing hamsters can’t get through

  2. 40 gallon breeder tanks can usually be found on local resale apps for $60 and below. This is my current set up.

  3. Bin cages are wonderful can cost as little as $20, just make sure they measure out to above 450 square inches

  4. The only crittertrail cage made large enough for hamsters.
u/JorwayBlacknight · 2 pointsr/hamsters

I currently use the Prevue 528 for my robo and it has plenty of space.

u/subvrsve · 2 pointsr/Hedgehogs

Ours super love to run on their wheels (they are like this type ). And for bedding, we use corn cob bedding. It's supposedly very good for them because it does not have dust and is therefore better for their noses:). Do you think yours would be allergic to that?

u/MoriKitsune · 2 pointsr/RATS

1- Always adopt more than one!

Rats are very social animals, and to prevent undue stress and sadness, they need to have rattie friends with which to spend their time. Also, try to adopt same-sex pairs/groups to avoid accidental litters; if you must adopt rats of different genders, make sure one of them are ‘fixed’ before housing them together. It’s also a good idea to get littermates, as they’ll already be familiar with each other, and they’ll be the same age, which becomes significant as they age and pass on.

Also, I HIGHLY recommend trying to find a reputable rat rescue near you before going to a pet store or breeder. There are SO MANY loveable, beautiful rats out there that were rescued from bad conditions and need loving homes. Breeders often supply reptile owners with feeders, and many don’t keep their rats in good conditions or socialize them properly. Same with pet stores. A lot of times, female pet store rats will even end up pregnant because someone didn’t keep them away from the males. There are several Facebook groups and websites with area-specific rescue groups that can point the way for you to find your babies.

2- Make sure your cage type is right!

Rats, like humans, need their personal space. If you cram too many in too small a space, you’ll get stress and fighting. Use a cage dimension calculator like this one to make sure the cage you’re looking at buying is big enough for the number of fur babies you’re going to get (2-3 is a good starting number.) also important is the distance between the cage bars, especially if you’re going to adopt young rats. Remember, anything they can fit their head through, they can fit the rest of their body through if they really want to. Try to get a cage with no more than 1/3-1/2inch of space between the bars.

Rats are also climbers- while a single-story unit would be fine for a rabbit or guinea pig, it’s important for rats to have multiple levels and platforms on which to live and play.

DO NOT use a glass tank. Rats are prone to upper respiratory infections, and they also pee quite a lot. This wouldn’t be an issue, except rat pee is high in ammonia, which is bad for them to breathe in. Tanks just can’t get the proper level of ventilation to be a good home for rats, even with daily cleanings; they might look cute, but for your babies’ sake, stick with a cage.

Make sure your cage has smooth floors. Rats, like most other pawed animals, have little pads on their feet. They’re also quite sensitive, and prone to getting their toes caught. Make sure that any mesh or wire platforms in your cage are covered with a hard, smooth surface so that your rats can walk/run/jump around comfortably.

3- Essentials

Rats are prey animals, so their instincts drive them to hide and nest; make sure you give them lots of places to hide away, like little houses, nests, baskets, and hammocks. Places up high are a favorite among my girls.

Make sure you have an constant, ample water supply. I recommend having a couple of water bottles, or a bottle and a dish- just in case they finish one off during the day, they’ll have plenty more to make it until you get home and notice that one’s empty. I personally keep a dish with dry rat food full in the cage as well, to make sure they’re never hungry.

Fleece liners or other bedding options are also important- rats aren’t very good at regulating their body temperatures, so giving them a means to keep warm is important. Fleece covers over the trays (I use blankets cut to shape and pinned with binder clips) or bedding spread liberally over the bottom of a deeper pan is important for this.

Exercise wheels are also a good idea; get the biggest one you can- it’s not good for them to have their backs/tails bent at too far an angle. A saucer wheel is perfect, but my girls wouldn’t run on the one I gave them, so I got them this one

Also, not quite essential, but- rats are über smart, and can be litterbox trained! Giving them a litter box and training them to use it will save a lot of time and effort when it comes to cleaning their cage every week.

4- Toys and decorations

Like I said before, rats are smart! They need mental stimulation. Puzzles, toy balls, and hanging bird toys are all great ideas. There are also a ton of diy toy ideas on the Internet in places like Pinterest. A lava rock ledge or a brick in the cage will help them keep their claws trim, and provide a convenient step-up into a hide. Try to stay away from soft woods, and keep with hardwood toys and shelters.
As for decor; they’ll probably regularly chew through the fleece you give them, so it’s easy to switch up the cage aesthetic whenever you want :) you can also cut up the old fleece into bits and give it to them as bedding to nest with, too.

This is my girls’ cage after it was mostly-clean yesterday (I did the top level later on.) I know the image is potato-quality, but you’ll probably be able to see the water bottles, hammocks, hides, and wheel :) their food dish is stashed behind the purple ramp next to the wheel haha

You might also notice the boxes in the top level; cardboard boxes are a great thing to put in their cages; it’s a chew toy and a hide all in one! You’ll need to replace them regularly, of course, but things like soda boxes and tissue boxes are great cage additions.

5- Cleanliness

It’s important to clean your rats’ cage weekly, at least, and twice weekly if they’re hairless (hairless are more prone to uri’s.) Personally, I wipe down the bars with baby wipes (or soap and water if they really need it) and clean the pans with soap and water. As for all of the hammocks and fleece, I toss it in the washing machine with my own clothes (no fabric softener or dryer sheets) and also make sure to beat them out (like a rug) so they’re as clean as possible before putting them in the laundry. I also wash all of their plastic toys, dishes, and wheels with soap and water, making sure to rinse them well so there’s no residue.

It’s rare, but sometimes your rats will need some help getting clean. When my girls were younger, there came a point where they smelled like pee and they had porphyrin all over their fur from their own cleanings; at that point, I prepared a thick towel and some warm water, and washed each of them with oatmeal baby soap, making sure to avoid their faces and ears (as you would with a dog or other pet) and immediately afterward cuddled them in the towel until they were dry enough that I felt like they wouldn’t be too cold in their cage. My SO was a big help with that stage.

6- Nutrition

Rats need a varied diet. Depending on where you look, you get different percentages, but personally what I do is leave a bowl full of dry food in their cage and top it off as needed, and every night (or, being real, every other night) when I get home and make my dinner, I make a plate for them and load it up with a bed of kale, sliced or canned vegetables, berries, a sprinkle of oats or nuts (I have some petite babies and I’m trying to help them gain weight) and some chicken or turkey baby food; sometimes I’ll even put some fruit baby food on there as well- they absolutely love it. For protein I’ll also sometimes do scrambled eggs or chicken that I’ve shredded up post-cooking, instead of poultry baby food (baby food is just the easiest thing for me to do) :) these guys give a comprehensive list of foods that are safe for rats, and when in doubt, google it before feeding it to them. Male rats generally have more dietary rules than females, so watch out for that with them.

7- Playtime!

Every single day, your rats will need at least an hour of playtime with you. Just like we were told as kids “get out and play an hour a day” this is really important for their mental and physical health. This could be anything from a free-roam in a rat-proof room, or just running around on the bed while you watch a movie. This is also a great time for you to teach them some tricks (there are plenty of tutorials on the web for how to train them 😊) or set up a little play area for them complete with toy houses and things to explore and treat-laden puzzles for them to solve. For treats, my girls love yogies, nuts, and dried fruit :)

u/AnnaAnjo · 2 pointsr/RATS <-- I got something like this, it is not so silent though, but something like this size is good

u/5abrina · 2 pointsr/hamsters

That does look too small. I did the exact same thing - even the exact same wheel! - and had to upgrade. I ended up buying the same brand but the next size up (the one that is usually marketed for ferrets). If you can fit that one in the cage you have, I highly recommend it. I was worried at first that my girl would have a hard time with it being so big and potentially heavy, but she runs in it like crazy.

Edit: The one I got was this one

u/speedyjonzalas · 2 pointsr/RATS

It may be an option. Other wheels don't seem big enough for rats I'm my opinion. Make sure you get the large size like this one :

(It can either be used with the frame or you can remove the frame and attach it to the cage)

u/C22JE · 2 pointsr/RATS

yeah that is a big concern! Wire can cause fractured/broke feet and toes! I would recommend that one. Are you getting girls or boys? OH! and if you want a lot of people cover the shelves with fleece for easy clean up/soft cuddle spots. I personally don't with that cage since the shelves are smaller. Just something to consider!
And another thing my rats like are I like to put one up and then a hanging toy above it. It just adds another little thing for them to use.

u/twistedLucidity · 2 pointsr/hamsters

Get a Superpet Silent Spinner. Not cheap, but quiet.

u/ChristianCuber · 2 pointsr/hermitcrabs

This is what i have. I hung it upside down on some hooks. They love the shit out of it. it gets used daily and I've even had them double up in it.


Here is a shot I got of my two biggest guys in it at the same time. They were moving it too. I called the picture "teamwork" got a little video of them but haven't uploaded it anywhere to share.

u/UziFoo · 2 pointsr/RATS

The stuff you're feeding them has too much water and can give them wet tail in large amounts. Get some rat food from your pet shop. They won't over eat if you keep their bowl full all the time. My rats always have food available, they only eat when they are hungry. You can give them all the stuff you've been giving them as treats.

I get my rats this stuff, a bag lasts a long time. From what I've seen a lot of pet stores sell that.

As far as poop smell, I hardly smell my rats' poop since I have them litter box trained.

u/noncewords · 2 pointsr/RATS

Oxbow Regal Rat is the one for adult rats; here it is on Amazon. Block food (you'll also hear this referred to as "lab blocks" sometimes) that's intended for rats has a better nutritional balance for them, plus since each piece is the same, they won't be able to preferentially eat the fattier or sweeter bits.

u/Koi_Nami · 2 pointsr/guineapigs

Here's some links to products I mentioned and products my pigs like:

Small Pet Select Timothy Hay Pet Food, 10-Pound

Ware Hand Woven Willow Twig Tunnel Small Pet Hideout, Large

Kaytee Forti Diet Pro Health Food for Guinea Pig, 5-Pound

eCOTRITION Snak Shak Treat Stuffer for Guinea Pig/Rabbit

Kaytee Chew-Proof Water Bottle, 26-Ounce (I fill it almost completely and mine never leaks, but some reviews mention it leaking).

Kaytee Super Sleeper Cuddle-E-Cup, Colors Vary best to get two of things like this, pigs will fight over it if there's only one.

u/Holly_Tyler · 2 pointsr/ferrets

Yeah mine love their big dog bowl but they're in the cage for 8+ hours while we are at work during the week so I keep a bottle in there. I found one that doesn't leak super pet. But, the top is REALLY hard to open and close.

u/MyPantsHasButtPocket · 2 pointsr/hamster

Hamsters are nocturnal, so while you may think she's not using her wheel, she might be using it while you are asleep or away from home. I do hope you get a larger cage for her soon, as that cage is too small to accommodate an appropriately sized wheel. If she truly isn't using a wheel at all, the size of the wheel may be contributing to that.

Syrians should run on a 12 inch wheel. An economic choice is the comfort wheel from Kaytee:


Although it will appear oversized, a 12 inch wheel will prevent your hammy from arching her back, which can cause issues as she ages. Regardless of which wheel you provide, make sure the wheel has a solid running surface, versus the wire wheels.


You mentioned being on a tight budget, but if you can save up to afford it, this has been a great cage for my hammies and I think could really improve your hammy's quality of life:

u/tostada · 2 pointsr/RATS

Carefresh should be fine! :) And hopefully the grate keeps the majority of the mess in, but it's so floofy and fun to play with. Again, it should be fine, just a little more to pick off before throwing it in the wash.

Scraps and lots of toys to chew and tear up are lots of fun! It can also be cheap. Dig boxes and wood chews and cardboard mailing tubes are all fun toys for rats. Here's a great site for ideas:

Yay learning on a sewing machine! :D That's awesome that you're willing to learn on it. And the silent spinner is a bit pricey, yes... my Run-Around wheel was around $16, but my girls learned to run on the Comfort Wheel and are used to having a closed-in space, so they prefer the Comfort Wheel more. You can always pick one up at a physical pet store, as well, and clean it and return it if they don't like it (I know.. I'd feel guilty about it, but if it's in new condition, I don't think it's a bad thing to do). Ask at the rescue (if they ever call you, dang it!) if the rats are used to wheels already. Even if they're not it's worth a shot, because it's a lot of fun!

Yeah, vinegar is good for cleaning out flat surfaces, and you can always scrub with a rag for stubborn stains. But you'll be using fleece, which absorbs most of the mess! If your husband is allergic to bleach and you use vinegar already, you're good! :D

Oof, I would give them a call. Rescues are probably inundated with stuff to do, so they may have been to busy to reply. How many rats are you planning to take in? Will they be older, or babies? Male or female? (Sorry for being nosy; I'm excited for you!) Good on you for adopting from a rescue, BTW!! You're a hero! Don't be discouraged if your rats are a little flighty at first, or if they don't explore their new digs right away, especially if they were rescued from a not-so-great situation and are older. They'll open up with all the love and care you're already giving them!

u/pennygirl · 2 pointsr/pics

Hi! This is owner of Penelope #2, girlfriend of the other Redditor who posted :)

I am no expert but I have done my fair share of reading on this forum and also this one and here are some things I've learned:

Definitely get a heat source! They are supposed to be kept very warm, Penny's cage is always about 78-80 degrees, and I've read that a range of 74-82 is acceptable. I use a space heater that has a temperature setting that turns off when it gets to the right temp, which has worked really well for me! They can go into hibernation if their cage is any cooler than 74... Penny has attempted hibernation a couple of times and it's scary, and I imagine pretty bad for their health! They get all sluggish, won't uncurl from a ball, and are cold to the touch- definitely not good for them.

As far as food goes, I would recommend a mix of good quality cat foods --depending on the type, hedgehog food can actually be really bad for them if it has things like corn products and meat by-products. I feed Penny a mix of Innova Low Fat Adult Cat Food, Wellness Indoor Health Adult Cat food, and Sunseed Hedgehog food. I've read that the most important thing to look at what the first couple of ingredients are... Meat products and meat meal products. You should really try to avoid any cat food that has meat by-products and corn products, especially in the first couple of ingredients. I think the protein content is suppossed to be around 30-34%, and fat is supposed to be less than 13%? I think young hedgehogs are supposed to have a diet that is slightly higher in fat though, so definitely something to look into :)

Get her a wheel! You'll be amazed how much she will run every night... I have this one, which is good for little hedgehogs because their feet/toenails can't get caught in anything.

Oh! And for bathing... I like to use oatmeal because it's supposed to be good for their skin. I just put some in a sock and let it soak in the water with a couple drops of flax seed oil.

Enjoy the little thing!

u/jlaray · 2 pointsr/RATS

Personally, I wouldn't get a rat from a pet store. As others mentioned, they tend to have more health/behavioral problems. They live in glass tanks, after all. I've gotten all but 1 of my rats from craigslist, usually somebody has an "oops" litter and sells the babies. (yes, they "sell" them because people looking for snake food can often find feeder rats for free). I got Hercules from a pet store because he was like, returned to them and they were trying to adopt him out. I couldn't stand seeing him in a 10-gallon tank, watching everyone walk by him and dealing with kids banging on the glass. He was very young and adorable so I had to have him. :3

As for products, I recommend a plastic igloo or 2 because you can wash and re-use them. My rats don't chew on them but I can't speak for every one. I make most of their toys and hammocks, though. You can go to stores like Jo-Ann Fabrics and they have a "remnants" section with rolls of fleece for 50% off!!

I also buy their food from pet stores. I use Kaytee Healthy Support Diet (nutritional lab blocks) and pick the green things out because it gives them diarrhea. I wouldn't recommend the seed mixes you see at pet stores, they're very fattening and don't have a lot of nutrition. Wood chews and stuff are fine but my rats never touch them. They prefer toilet paper tubes, etc.

Right off the bat, I would say SPLURGE ON A BIG CAGE. You will thank me later. I bought a shitty $30 cage on craigslist for my first rats and it was a living hell to clean. Best choice is a Critter Nation cage. Huge doors that open the whole cage are amazing.

Most people cover the shelves in fleece and potty train their rats to use a little litter box in the corner. I never had the patience, so I replaced the bottom shelf with a concrete mixing bin and fill it with paper bedding, and the top shelf is wrapped in fleece.

This was way longer than I expected but good luck! Make sure if you get more than one that they're all boys or all girls. (duh :p)

u/ThrowawayLaray · 2 pointsr/RATS

It's a bit pricey, but I recommend a Critter Nation cage. Virtually unescapable. Many people go for the double but I have a single for 3 boys and it's perfect.

Other suggestions would be a LARGE, WELL-VENTILATED aquarium until they're older, you could re-wrap the cage with smaller chicken wire and zip-tie that shit on VERY tight. Go nuts with the zip ties, in every loose possible place they could lift the wire from the cage. Make sure there are no sharp parts, though.

Perhaps not the best idea, but if you're very desperate you could plug the drain in your bathtub, put a bunch of towels/blankets in it and let them chill there for the night so you can sleep.

u/Neroxela · 2 pointsr/chinchilla

I actually started with my 2 chins in the same exact cage. Wound up going with the critternation at Petsmart for $260, you can get it on amazon for about $200 though:

mine came with plastic trays, very similar to a dog crate, but they make metal trays that are obviously chew proof. My gf and I made felt slipover covers for the tray though (for their feetsies, and to prevent plastic chewing), and they absolutely LOVE it!

u/MistakenSanity · 2 pointsr/sugargliders

This one is from Critter Nation. The bigger one of the 2 on that page. It is a great cage and I love the huge doors. I can open them fully while I clean the cage and the gliders don't even jump out.

u/kronickhigh · 2 pointsr/sugargliders

My vet has told me it is also super important to feed a wide variety of food. This is my list that I use to find good foods

and this is a modified hpw recipe
Ratio 2.05:1 Calcium 21.47 mg Phos 10.46 mg

Protein 0.59 g Sugar 2.94 g Iron 0.05 mg

Fat 0.23 g Fiber 0.06 g

1 cup Juice (Gerber Yogurt Juice *Green Juice plus extra 1/8 tsp Calcium)

1 cup Honey

3 Large Eggs - cooked

6 oz Yogurt - Plain or Low Fat Vanilla

2 TBS Bee Pollen Granules

1/2 cup Wombaroo High Protein Supplement

1 tsp NOW brand Calcium Carbonate Powder (1200 mg / tsp)

Add Water about 1 cup - using just enough to make the full batch equal 5 cups total.

Once it's made stick it in the freezer, it scoops out like ice cream.

here's a place you can get the wombaroo powder

the 1 kilo box lasts about 1.5 years for two gliders. Keep it in the freezer

I got them this cage

and this wheel

and they love life. They also holy flying hell love meal worms.

u/blackrabt · 2 pointsr/RATS

The cage is a two level critter nation, sometimes branded as a ferret nation. The bars are coated and chew resistant and the doors come off to make it easier to work on the insides. Overall we are very happy with it. We got ours from amazon on sale with free shipping.

This is the one we purchased, but paid closer to $180 at the time. They are somewhat modular as far as adding levels and laying out the insides.

Midwest Critter Nation Animal Habitat with Stand, Double Unit, 36 Inches by 24 Inches by 63 Inches

u/Keiggo · 2 pointsr/Degus

One of our large pet chain stores sells them which I suppose has increased their popularity slightly. They aren't common though! People still look at me confused when I say what they are. Try this:

u/icerak · 2 pointsr/ferrets

My little guy loves this!
I have a bunch of cheap $5 polar fleece blankets from Walmart that he loves and makes it super easy to keep the cage clean.
EDIT: formatting

u/pirateninjamonkey · 2 pointsr/sugargliders

I recommend It is cheap right now and awesome.

u/TerrierGlider · 2 pointsr/sugargliders

I upgraded to the Midwest Deluxe Critter Nation Two Story

I like the horizontal bars, its size, the flat floor, large doors, and that you can expand it. I can only recommend it if you are willing to work on it, as it can be hard to put together and dangerous otherwise.

If the pieces were perfect, it would not be hard to put together. But some of the connections were bent and needed to be straitened, had a bad weld that made a gap, so had to be creative and a second set of hands to get it into place. It is just a one time headache and your set might be better.

For sugar gliders, you will want to not add the middle floor section, not adding it exposes holes, and then there is holes for where you can add the adjustable shelves.

The dangerous part is the holes have sharp edges, so they need to be filed smooth. Also, the punched out bit is still in the holes on most of them. They can be removed with needle nose pliers. If this is not done, I would worry about a curious sugar glider loosing a finger or whole hand...


The one I had before was the HQ Flight Cage

It is a little smaller, but still a descent size, it has bars on the bottom and slide out floor under it, so with a bit of newspaper (or what ever you prefer) it was easy to clean it, the smaller doors can be an advantage if you have have trouble keeping the gliders inside when you open it.

I had it for three years, the main reason I replaced it is I did not like the vertical bars, even though I never had an issue, I worried about it hurting their feet, as they always slid down on the bars a bit and with the bars on the bottom, they did not have much flat ground to stand on. I also wanting something a bit larger.

Other wise, it was a great cage. It was easy to put together and the only adjustment I had to make was to zip tie shut the little bird doors on the top of it.


I looked into both cages, before getting them, to make sure they were not coated with anything toxic to sugar gliders, which is the main issue with cheap bird cages.

u/jrdbrr · 2 pointsr/Hedgehog

This is what I'm rolling with. Hard to find space for it. Aspen bedding and carefresh aren't recommended as it can get stuck in the hedgehog's "plumbing" and cause infections. Its easiest to get fleece blankets like these at Ikea:

Some people make pads out of them fit for the cage, a blanket folded with padding sewn in.

u/d-i-n-o-s-a-u-r · 2 pointsr/guineapigs

It can be really difficult to get hold of the grids and big enough sheets of Correx, unfortunately. I got my grids from Grendle, and was lucky enough to come across someone living about 2 miles from me on The Guinea Pig Forum who was giving away 2 huge sheets of Correx for free! That forum has a lot of discussion about C&C cages, and it's UK-based, so probably worth signing up there and looking around for any suggestions in your area. Many people seem to contact sign makers to get Correx sheets.

I now need to get stuff for a roof for my cage, and my Correx is a bit worn so I was thinking of getting a new sheet, and I think I'm just going to end up ordering the pre-scored Correx from C&C Guinea Pig Cages, even though it's expensive...measuring/scoring/cutting the Correx was a bit of a pain so this time round I'm happy to pay a bit more for something that is done properly and fits!

You could also consider the Midwest habitat and having 2 joined together rather than a loft, but at that point it would end up more expensive than the custom pre-made C&C cage.

u/ghostnebula7 · 2 pointsr/guineapigs

My wiggly pigs have two of these connected together.

Guinea Habitat Guinea Pig Cage by MidWest, 47L x 24W x 14H Inches

One of those cages is the minimum recommended size for two guinea pigs (8 square feet). I think that's cheaper than a C&C cage, considering the price of a pack of panels and a sheet of coroplast. If that cage is a size upgrade for them, I definitely recommend it. You'll see the same cage in a lot of pictures here. Good luck.

u/bubbahubb · 2 pointsr/guineapigs

If you can afford it I would get two equal size cages... bigger than you have now. If not then using the smaller one for the new pig during the quarantine should be fine.

If you can... two of those would be great. We have these and they are fantastic. You can join them together when they are ready. And every so often if you have the space or have the extra bit of money you can always buy more and continue to give them the space they need.

u/im_actual_trash · 2 pointsr/Hedgehog

I’m gonna advise against terrariums. Unless you live in a place that has very low humidity, and you’re house stays below 80, you’ll need a cage. Terrariums trap humidity, create a hot environment, and hold ammonia, all of which are bad for hedgehogs. Also if you went the terrarium route, you would be needing a 40 gallon breeder or a 55 gallon.
If you’re a little more handy, you could build a wooden Vivarium, and have large, hinged doors. Or you could assemble a c and c cage too. There are also some store bought cages the are pretty good.

South west guinea pig cage

Amazon basics pet habitat (large or jumbo)

Kaytee my first pet home

u/Snakeofsolid · 2 pointsr/guineapigs

Unfortunately that cage is still rather small. it may be long enough but its far too narrow.

something like this would be adequate.

u/axalon900 · 2 pointsr/guineapigs

You may like to think you're enough, but guinea pigs need the company of their own kind which they can understand socially. It is considered animal cruelty to house a guinea pig alone and is illegal on those grounds in several countries. Your guinea pig is likely depressed. You really, really ought to get another one. It's not as much as you think, and you can get a good cage of a good size online for cheaper than the tiny things they sell at PetSmart.

I personally recommend this one, the Midwest Guinea Pig Habitat:

There's also this one which is new to me, but even cheaper and of a similar size/design:

You can also go the "C&C" route, which you can build yourself for pretty cheap or buy pre-made ones here:

You can try to connect the old cage with the new cage somehow, or just save the old one as a travel cage or use it as a sort of water/restroom station for floor time, and have it as part of a larger setup with a fenced in area. This combo can also do as a cage in the interim if you need to save up, as small animal play area fences are way cheaper and guinea pigs are naturally a little litterbox trained in that they'll prefer doing their business somewhere familiar, which would be the cage interior in this case.

As for another guinea pig, I would say get another anyway even if you have to have them in a cramped cage for a bit. Cage space can be mitigated to a degree with lots of floor time, loneliness cannot. You will be surprised the difference it makes. When I got my two guinea pigs, I had to keep them separate for a few weeks to make sure neither came to me sick, and while part of it was getting acclimated they spent a lot of time just lying around doing nothing. Once I introduced them and they got bonded, however, they're often interacting with each other, whether it's nibbling on hay or sniffing or squeaking at each other or whatever, and it really is night-and-day the difference.

Other than that, well, there's no good way to say this, but if you can't afford another guinea pig and a bigger cage, then you can't afford guinea pigs. Part of the reason PetSmart sells you these small cages and sells lone guinea pigs is to get people who otherwise really couldn't afford the correct setup to buy one (inadequate) setup anyway for a quick buck, and quote outdated research to defend their policies. Hamsters have it even worse, being essentially marketed as dolls for kids to play with in claustrophobic novelty cages.

u/intangiblemango · 2 pointsr/Rabbits

Sure! Here is a crappy webcam picture of the rabbit room: Apologies for the mess; Sunday is the day I usually clean the bunny room and I haven't done it yet this evening. You can see Scout, the black bun, in her x-pen (the x-pen is kind of in the middle room so there are other toys/another litterbox for Rory and Cyril on the other side) and Rory, the broken bun, hanging out on the right. The cage running along the back is the guinea pig cage. It is two of these attached to each other in a straight line: (Cyril is in the living room and didn't make the photo.) There is a cat tunnel running between the x-pen and the guinea pig cage.

In terms of what is different: it's just basically the level of time, attention, and care that the rabbits need versus the guinea pigs. So, for example, both guinea pigs need unlimited grass hay. Nominally, then, that is the same. But my bunnies are SUPER picky and will go through the hay and pull out all the bits they don't like and put it in the litterbox and pee in. My guinea pigs just eat their damn hay. So the guinea pigs maybe need their hay refilled once or twice a day. For my rabbits, keeping hay in their hay racks is basically a full time job (and we have lots of big hay racks; we're not shy in that department). The level of exercise and interaction they need is a lot greater. Their capacity for destruction is MUCH greater-- the worst thing my guineas have ever done is pee on my lap (rabbits don't do that, though, which is nice, haha). They need more toys and more toy rotation so they don't get bored and tear up the carpets. And, so far, my experience is that their medical needs have been higher. My guinea pigs are five and have been to the vet for a single sebacious cyst + routine check ups, whereas my buns have had to go to the vet quite a few times in a shorter period of time, so having an emergency vet fund is definitely a really good idea (it's a good idea anyways, but even more important).

It's more work, more money, and a lot easier to let buns take over your life.

I hope this doesn't sound really discouraging-- I can't even imagine my life without bunnies anymore. You get a huge amount of love from them. There is nothing better than having a bunny hop on the bed and sit on your chest to watch Netflix with you. They follow you everywhere. And they are so interactive and full of personality.

If I am scaring you too much: One option that may be available to you depending on where you live is to foster for a rabbit rescue, which will give you a much better sense of what life with bunnies is like, with an easy out if it is too much.

...bunnies are really great, though.

u/gadgetRR · 2 pointsr/guineapigs

I believe you may be able to purchase more than one and hook them together if you need the extra space. Might have to modify the mats a little, but I think it could work. But one fits comfortably for my two boys.

u/Sammadooskie · 2 pointsr/guineapigs

As everyone else said. That cage is much to small for 2 piggies. Look into Midwest Guinea Habitat. They are 8 sq ft per cage and you can expand them or connect 2+ cages together. I have 2 for my 2 piggies and they LOVE it.

u/DaPsychoMan · 2 pointsr/guineapigs

Thank you for the help! But could you help me pick out a cage that doesn't pass 50$? I found this one on the C & C site and thought it looked okay, it has good reviews but it doesn't have a top panel and I have cats. One cat is pretty old and she doesn't bother a fly and the other is quite curious.

I found the same cage for one day delivery on amazon for a little less but it also has the top panel.

Is it big enough for two guinea pigs or do I need a bigger cage?

u/MissAmericka16 · 2 pointsr/Hedgehog

I really like this one. The tarp is super easy to clean and you can add expansions to the cage:
Guinea Habitat Plus Guinea Habitat Plus

u/alex7336 · 2 pointsr/guineapigs

I have these for mine and they’re really happy in them. These cages connect, each purchase is purchasing one cage so if you would like multiple make sure to check the quantity. I personally didn’t put the top grid on because I want the space to feel more open for my piggies. Waterproof bottom and you can use fleece or bedding. And it’s super easy to set up!

Edit: sorry for the messy link

u/SpeedyCavy · 2 pointsr/guineapigs

To be happy 2 piggies need at minimum 8 square feet so they can run. I recommend this cage if you can’t fit that, I’d suggest waiting or looking into a different pet like a hamster. I made the bad decision when I adopted my piggies as babies to get a smaller cage and expand when they grew up. 2 months later I was buying another, bigger cage. There’s no 2 ways about it. If piggies don’t have a big cage they will just be bored and sit around all day. It’s big but necessary.
Most guinea pigs also need a piggie friend to be happy because they’re herd animals. There are rare exceptions but typically one guinea pig is a depressed guinea pig.
My cage doesn’t even perfectly fit in my room- kinda have to step over it- but to me it’s worth it.

u/spdivr1122 · 2 pointsr/guineapigs

Guinea Habitat Plus Guinea Habitat Plus

This was my first cage. I use it for my two boys still

u/theorangepopsicle · 2 pointsr/Hedgehog

For me it has been trial and error mostly, you kind of see what they prefer. Very amazing animals and the personality reflects them definitely. I've had Oli for 4 months now and have bought two cages, two wheels, and went through multiple different kinds of bedding.

Cage wise, I started with your first one, and realized shortly after Oli wanted more room.

This was what I have now, and I love it.

Guinea Habitat Plus

Make sure you buy a large wheel, both the saucer spinners and silent spinners work great.

As far as bedding, I like the carefresh recycled cardboard. It's less messy and absorbs. My hedgie prefers the bedding, but that doesn't go for all.

carefresh Complete Natural Paper Bedding for Small Animals, 50 L

I tried a fleece and he wasn't liking that because he had nothing to burrow in. Make sure you have places for your little guy to hide!

u/sav575757 · 2 pointsr/pics

These are awesome customizable and expandable enclosures. You can connect them to each other for as much space as you could want, plus they have dividers and such available as well. I used them when I had guinea pigs and they worked great.
I've also seen them sold at walmart occasionally.

u/Frictus · 2 pointsr/Pets

I'll try to link it, the cage I bought was $40 and is a similar style to c+c

Here ya go. I'm in the US so I don't know if it'll be different. They also have just the cage (no "plus") for $35

u/Chasuwa · 2 pointsr/RATS
u/msktty89 · 2 pointsr/RATS

I like the plastic space pod, personally. Haven't had much luck with cloth ones! My past two rats have used this pod consistently and without really chewing on it.

u/Ghostwoif123 · 2 pointsr/RATS

amazon! I just bought one from there and my doods loooove it!

u/-Nuu- · 2 pointsr/RATS

I get all my fleece from JoAnn stores. They often have fleece at 50% off per yard, so you can buy it in bulk and use it as needed. Any large fabric store will have lots of fleece in stock (I just prefer JoAnn because that's the best one I have in the area I live in). I'm sure you know this already, but just in case, please don't use cedar or pine chips as bedding for your rats; it's harmful to them. You can use fleece or aspen chip bedding (but freeze the aspen for 48 hours prior to use to make sure it's free of parasites).

I buy many rat toys on Amazon, and make some myself. If you're buying any kind of wooden rat toy, do be aware that many of them are made from soft woods like pine and cedar, which are super bad for rat respiratory systems. Hardwood toys are usually safe—just make sure it's not a combination wood that also has pine or cedar in it along with the hardwood. I personally do not buy wood toys on amazon, because the products often don't list what kind of wood they're made of. The only wood product I buy on Amazon is bags of untreated apple branch chewing sticks. I'll link you to some rat-safe toys and accessories I buy on amazon below! :)

Kaytee Lava Ledge

15" Chin Spin - Small Animal Exercise Wheel - Handmade in USA (Expensive, but it's the very best and safest wheel for rats.)

Bright Starts Lots of Links Accessory Toy (Great for hanging things up in the cage.)

Small Animal Activity Toy Cotton Rope Net For Rat and Ferret Pet Bed for Parrot and Hamster Parrot

Kaytee Igloo Hideout, Large

ACCO Binder Clips, Medium, 2 Boxes, 12/Box (A7072050) (If using fleece as the bedding/liner in your cage, this helps to secure fleece to the Critter Nation pans.)

Dr. Bronner's Pure-Castile Liquid Soap - Baby Unscented, 32oz. (I don't use any scented products with my rats since rat respiratory systems are so fragile, so this is the non-scented liquid soap I use to wash my hands and their non-fabric toys.)

Pawliss Teeth Grinding Lava Block for Hamster Chinchilla Rabbit

Aspen/Booda Corporation BBX56134 Byrdy Cable Cross Bird Toy, Medium

200g(7oz) Apple Sticks Pet Snacks Chew Toys for Guinea Pigs Chinchilla Squirrel Rabbits Hamster(About 50-70 Sticks) by MAIYUAN (The only wood product I buy on Amazon.)

Ware Manufacturing Fun Tunnels Play Tube for Small Pets (Medium.)

Ware Manufacturing Plastic Scatterless Lock-N-Litter Small Pet Pan- Colors May Vary (Regular size, not jumbo.)

JW Comfy Perch for Birds (Large, 36".)

Lixit Critter Space Pod 2 Large (You can hand these on the ceiling of the Critter Nation. My boys LOVE these!)

Lixit Lbg-16 Glass Small Animal Bottle 16 Oz (16oz is always best for rats because of the bigger water spout. I've found that smaller bottles are a struggle for my boys to get water out of, so I only use the small ones for rat carriers/transporter cages. Tip: filtered water is best for rats, so if you can, get a Britta water filter.)

Yummy Time Tiny Small Stoneware Pet/Dog Bowl

I buy Harlan Teklad (Envigo) food blocks for my rats, which is one of the top two for rats (the other is Oxbow Regal Rat). Harland Teklad is hard to find though, so I buy mine through this animal rescue:

If you get these blocks, freeze them to extend their shelf life, and take them out from the freezer as needed to fill your ratties' bowls. Harlan Teklad is great because they have several formulas for rats based on their age, which is super helpful for their health. Young rats up to 8 months usually eat Harlan Teklad 2016 (16% protein), and after 8 months they eat Harlan Teklad 2014 (14% protein).

Also, I don't have a link for this, but the best laundry detergents to use to wash your rats' cloth toys or bedding with is one that's non-scented and is sensitive on skins.

Um, if I think of anything else, I'll add it. But for now, it's already a ton. :P Enjoy!

(And feel free to message me if you have any questions!)

u/JPersnicket · 2 pointsr/RATS

I think a lot of things are kind of up to your rat's preference. I wouldn't bother buying a wheel unless you knew they loved it because most rats don't care about running on wheels. I'd invest in a Sputnik because it's universally loved by rats. You'll need some sort of bedding. I've put fleece covers down and litter box trained my rats. I tried all sorts of bedding but I really ended up liking Aspen shavings (which is the only safe wood for rats because the others give off scents that irritate their breathing). PVC pipe joints are good for them to run through and hide. My rats like Lava ledges to climb on and this helps wear down their claw without clipping. Also put some bricks near their water/food bowl to help whittle their nails down too. Binder clips and safety pins are your friends for hanging things. A ton of my stuff is from the dollar store so I can just throw it away when it gets really disgusting/torn up. And plenty of soft fleece pieces/fabric scraps for them to snuggle and nest in. Save any cardboard boxes you can because they love playing in them.

u/darkayden · 2 pointsr/RATS

When I boarded my girl rats at Andy's all four of them fit fine in that cage. Some stuff I'd recommend are get tons of Lava ledges so they can have different heights in the cage. They have Big ones and Small ones. The small ones are only available online now I think. My girls love to hop from one to another plus it will help file down their nails and teeth. I currently have 10 big ones and 8 small ones in my 2 cages. A hammock is great but you can also put a space pod in there too as another place to sleep or chill. I just got one for my girls but I'm waiting for a hammock to be chewed down before putting it in there. I also got The Bandit Bridge and my girls love that too. I mainly use it as a safety net in case they fall off one of the ledges. I'd rather have them land on a soft thing than the igloo or hard cage bottom. Basically I'm cutting the fall in half.

Also if you still want to get another cage I recommend The Rat Manor I have it and my girls LOVE it! It's big enough for 4 rats so 3 would fit perfectly plus it has a metal bottom so they can't chew holes in it. Other than that you seem to be on the right track. Just spend a lot of time with them and get them used to you kinda like a re-introduction to humans and they should turn out fine. They may have been scared of the kids and all the noise but it sounds like they should perk up to you in no time after they get used to their new surroundings. Good luck and keep us posted!

u/B0SSA · 2 pointsr/RATS

It's a rat sputnik. Link

u/rxchell · 2 pointsr/hamsters

It’s the Trixie wheel that everyone in this thread recommends!! Do have to say it’s MASSIVE like way bigger than I was expecting but she loves it

It comes with a stand, or a clip that goes on bars and the stand is super quiet but when it clips in the bars it does rock slightly!

Trixie 61011 Rotating Ferris...

u/TylerRosexD · 2 pointsr/hamsters
u/zacobson2 · 2 pointsr/hamster

I had that wheel too, it was very noisy and generally awful.
Trixie 61011 Rotating Ferris Wheel Hamsters, Plastic, ø28 cm, Assortment: Random Colors
I highly recommend that one, it’s extremely quiet and perfect for syrians.

u/jehknee · 2 pointsr/hamsters

Hello! I don't post a lot but I spent a long time looking for the most appropriate wheel for my hammy, so wanted to share what I found:

My hammy is currently using the Trixie exercise wheel (28cm) which he absolutely loves, it's not silent but the only sounds are his feet pattering and the wheel rocking slightly on its stand. You can fix the wheel to the bars of a cage if you prefer which would probably eliminate this noise. Link on Amazon UK.

When he was younger we used a 6.5 inch Kaytee silent spinner which was fantastic, but he quickly outgrew it. They do a 12 inch one so if you have a large enough home for your hammy then that's also a possibility. Hope that helps a little!

u/niku31 · 2 pointsr/hamsters

your cage is very small and he is looking to escape also give him toys when you get this big cage

if you want my bin to cage its 660sq and was very cheap


which leaves a lot of money for toys and accessories

remember also to give him a lot of bedding like 10cm deep so he can dig in and sleep or make tunnels throughout the night

one more thing please buy him a bigger wheel since his back is probably curved and can resolver him not even using the wheel


if you can maybe try to get these things fast since your hamster is damaging his teeth and can hurt his nose

hopefully, this helps

Good luck!

u/Macstaffer · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Dogs, ever since I was little I was obssessed with dogs. Instead of playing with Barbie dolls I would play with the Barbie dogs/puppies. I also had tons of dog stuffed animals, I still have some of them. As soon as we got our own house I begged my parents for a dog and we went to the shelter on my 12th bday and got Cinnamon. :D, but then we lost the house and had to rent. And everywhere we looked no one wanted a dog so we gave her away to a friends friend :( I still visit her sometimes. Right now I just got some guinea pigs (a week ago) since our landlord doesnt like cats or dogs. Theyre very cute but very skittish still. Link if I happen to win.

But I want it!

u/Astrumerus · 2 pointsr/Hedgehog

Prevue Pet Products Multi-Color Small Pet Playpen 40090

This is a playpen that I have. I bought two of them and it's a decent amount of space for my hedgie to run around in

u/throwawayasfuuuck · 2 pointsr/CasualConversation

I keep them out on the floor in my room. I had this little play pen that ended up not being big enough, so I use it fully stretched out to block off areas I don't want them in. Then I use pillows stood horizontally against furniture to keep them away from cables, small crevices, or from going under furniture! This is the play pen I mentioned above.

u/filmdavid · 2 pointsr/hamsters

I think this is the one we have -

We usually let him out of there after a few minutes and let him run around the hallway with the doors closed as its a nice L shaped room to build speed and also sniff everywhere.

u/yeldaba · 2 pointsr/hamsters

It is!
Prevue Pet Products Multi-Color Small Pet Playpen 40090

I really like it. I obviously don’t put him it in when I’m not right there, so he hasn’t made a break for it yet. Though he could easily climb up and over if I wasn’t watching. But it’s been really helpful for bonding/taming time.

u/cooldeadpunk · 2 pointsr/Hedgehog

Here but I dont recommend it for any long term cage. Everyone ive talked to including myself has had there hedgies escape

u/ImPrincessZelda · 2 pointsr/guineapigs

The mat is here: Check out this item at Target

This is the play pen (I use two of them I think you can buy them in a two pack): Prevue Pet Products Multi-Color Small Pet Playpen 40090

u/ravens_s · 2 pointsr/Hedgehog

Amazon! I have two, and they link together to make a bigger space since I have two hogs. click here

u/Kavzilla · 2 pointsr/BeardedDragons

I have a leash, but I also have a playpen. This one to be exact: it's nice because you can buy more than one to make a larger area and then interconnect well.

u/PoliteLittleLover · 2 pointsr/guineapigs

I have that same pen. I bought 2 off Amazon and connected them. Gives my girls about 10 square feet or so! Ran me about $20.

u/MomLovesMeBest · 2 pointsr/gerbil

I bought multiple playpen fences like this and just linked them together to make a really big space:

u/Zombeaver24 · 2 pointsr/RATS

I don’t know about bird toys but this puzzle feeder is supposed to be quite challenging for rats ( If your rat’s super smart tho, I’m not sure how long it’ll keep her interested XD

u/murkylotus · 2 pointsr/Rabbits
u/BlueJeansAndPearls · 2 pointsr/Rabbits

Is she chewing the cardboard or actually eating it? If she insists on consuming her toys, I'd say the best bet is to get hay based toys, or something she can't eat, like plastic jingle balls. Since she is digging at the carpet, it sounds to me like she might be a bunny who prefers digging toys. You could try a cardboard box filled with hay, like on its side so she can dig in it, and extra hay is good for her. I was going to recommend paper in the dig box, but since it seems she might be eating it, not a good idea. Try it with the hay. Hard plastic toys, should be pretty safe.

Also, I had a super picky hay eater, who used to get bouts of GI stasis frequently. It mainly had to do with her not eating enough hay I think, and she also gets into everything(so not sure). However, since I switched her hay around by better quality, offered more variety of hay, and just overwhelmed hay volume, we haven't had any trouble since with stasis. My Bugs is also a voracious chewer/shredder, and digger, and one thing I realized was she was so smart she needed more stimulation. Maybe your bunny would prefer some interactive toys that you and him could play together? I have all of the plastic toys below for her, ironically the dumb jingle ball is her one of her favorite. She pushes it all over the house. Sorry for all the giant links, just trying to give you an idea. Hope this helps!

u/caffeineassisted · 2 pointsr/Rabbits

Sorry for the TL;DR, but here is some advice that I have read and/or figured out during the last 9 months of owning bonded 1.5 year old English Spots.

I second the adult rabbits needing homes. Our local Animal Shelter charges $5 for the adoption fee and $20 for the spay/neuter fee. However, someone had already adopted the pair of rabbits we got and returned them, so they paid the $20 spay/neuter fee each. We got our awesome companion rabbits for only $5 each. We also put our savings into their cage and some awesome toys. I recommend the Teach N' Treat They absolutely love it! At some point I will take a video of them playing with it and post it on here.

Other things I am not sure if I have seen on this subreddit yet or not are (I am rather new here):

One thing that is also useful is buying a medium sized Sterilite plastic container to hold a few weeks supply of food, and put the bag in the closet well-closed so that the bag of pellets can stay fresh longer (since your not exposing it to air everyday) We have a solo cup with a line that marks 1/8 per rabbit that we leave in the Sterilite container. Also, only buy like a 3 month supply of pellets or else it loses nutrients.

Also, the internet and free shipping is your friend. We use drsfosterandsmith because we buy like 50 lbs of Oxbow Timothy hay at a time and 3- 10 lb bags of rabbit food and hay cubes (they lovvvvvve those too.) Shipping is free because it is over $49. Our rabbits are very picky and waste a lot of hay, but we don't live near a farm to get good hay cheap, so $75 for 50 lbs of hay is a steal for us. I think (though r/rabbits correct me if I am wrong) don't buy more hay that you can use in 9-12 months. Also, store it open so it doesn't get mildewy/moldy.

Also, we use a cube constructed from 5 panels of those wire storage cubes to put their hay in and they grab at it from the sides. We did this because they would urinate and poop all over the hay and not eat it again, plus made cleaning the cage harder. As an added bonus, the cube of hay especially entertains our girl bunny because she is the wire grabber/carpet digger/chewer and she thinks they are little vines that need pruning. This was the 5th attempt at finding something to contain the massive amounts of hay two rabbits can go through in one day, but it has worked the best.

Also we have still not found a good vacuum that picks up hay without clogging, so we do most of that by hand or with a stiff broom, then a once over with a vacuum with all the big stuff picked up. The Versa Stick Vac works well especially to get hair/poops and some smaller bits of hay in the crevice between the wall and carpet. Still not perfect though.

I second others saying vinegar is basically a miracle cleaner because rabbits are sensitive to most chemicals, and the vinegar cleans everything up like magic. We have a low pile rug and a piece of vinyl (keep them from chewing the edges because they will) as the bottom of their cage so they have some traction, but also the vinyl stays a bit cooler, and we put their water dish and hay to make clean up easier. We have an x-pen and some of those wire cube panels around the wall to keep them from chewing the walls.

Rabbits are awesome little furballs, and patience is definitely the number one thing. Just when we think we have fixed something to keep them from chewing/digging/eating something, they prove us wrong and we have to start over again. We are on cage design number 4 but this one is actually working a lot longer/better than the others.

Good luck!

u/freak-of-the-week · 2 pointsr/hamsters

This is the cage I'm using for my winter white. I attached wire mesh on the outside to make sure she couldn't escape, but for a Syrian the bar spacing on this will be just fine.

u/Hobbs4Lyfe · 2 pointsr/hamsters

32.5. LX 19W is 617.5 square inches it says the dimensions in the discrimination if you scroll to the bottom.

Prevue Pet Products 528 Universal Small Animal Home, Dark Gray

u/Amonette2012 · 1 pointr/hamsters

Just be careful with condensation in tanks.

Personally I recommend a deep bed wire cage like this:

You can fill the tray with sawdust for tunneling (I used to mix some food into it so they had some foraging to do) and they'll love climbing up and down the bars, even wearing down their teeth on them sometimes. They're more airy and offer more for hamsters to do than glass tanks. I modded mine to add another cage on top (I took the door off the top and wired the second cage over it, then covered the wires with cardboard so they didn't hurt their feet). The second cage was one of those ones with tunnel attachments. Those take some cleaning, but they LOVE them.

My cage was a bit of a behemoth but I housed some very happy hammies in it! At one point we had a rat tube with a hamster ball on the end with a bbq skewer ladder they could climb up, one of them used to nest in it.

u/enh98 · 1 pointr/hamsters

Prevue Pet Products 528 Universal Small Animal Home, Dark Gray

u/bubonis · 1 pointr/ferrets

The cage is just a now-somewhat-ubiquitous Ferret Nation two-level cage with an additional shelf installed.

u/iceph03nix · 1 pointr/ferrets

We use the 2 story Ferret Nation cages from MidWest

We made some felt "pillow cases" that pull over the pans, to make it a bit more comfy for them and it makes cleaning fairly easy as well.

They moved into this from a set of KayTee cages they came with, and they seem to like it. I'd definitely recommend getting the exit ramp for it as well. Watching a ferret belly slide down it to the floor cracks me up every time.

u/5a55yninja · 1 pointr/RATS

Two story ferret nation on sale now for $162 4hrs left Ferret Nation Habitat / Cage, Double Unit

u/squeazel2 · 1 pointr/ferrets

Good questions!

Gender doesn't matter if they're all fixed, they all get along just fine, they all have really individual personalities. I found the same is true with age, I'm guessing unless one ferret is really old and doesn't want to deal with a hyper baby. But if yours is less than a year, any age should be fine. I had a lazy only-weasel until he was 1yr then got him a hyper little kit.. he was annoyed at first, but now they love each other and play all the time.

If you're getting a new cage, I recommend the ferret nation double-decker. You can section off the top and bottom for a while to keep them seperate in the beginning when they're not being supervised, and when you're sure they get along they'll both have a nice big cage.

When you say your ferret attacks the cat, do you mean playfully? lol

Ferrets are not generally territorial, but I think with most animals it's better to introduce them in a neutral territory so they're not defensive off the bat, so putting them both in a new cage would be a good plan regardless I think.

I think the only difference with getting another 1 vs 2 is the litter box training.. harder to keep track of two new fluffs running around!

Good luck!

u/Rooser100 · 1 pointr/RATS

Sorry kept calling it ferret nation. It’s Midwest but for ferrets.

u/ThatGuyB · 1 pointr/chinchilla

It looks like either a Midwest Critter Nation (double unit) or a Midwest Ferret Nation (double unit). I have had both and they are great cages but I recommend the Ferret Nation over the Critter Nation as the wire gauge is thicker and less prone to breaking.

u/eggyallanpoe · 1 pointr/hamsters

I use and I love it. Be sure to only leave it in for 12-24 hours at a time as sometimes hamsters will either over-bathe and dry their skin out or use it as a litter box and then a bath which isn't sanitary lol

u/urbffcourtney · 1 pointr/hamsters

i was going to get this for them

u/windigooo · 1 pointr/hamsters

I use this Tiny Friends Farm Bathing Sand 1 kg

You can get it cheepest as an add on but it is available as an ordinary purchase. I've also seen it at Pets at Home

u/Ltothesquare · 1 pointr/Rabbits

He is using this cage:

Litterbox in one end with the water bottle, and a different hay holder that goes inside the cage. The food bowl is also moved to the litterbox when i feed him. I move him to the litterbox when he lifts his tail when I can. He usually pees when I am outside of the room though. When he does go in the litterbox he gets rewarded too. I cant seem to tell if he is pooping in the litterbox as he does it though, he lifts his tail to pee and not to poop. I have a dog in the house as well. The rabbit loves her, but as of right now I keep them separated with the rabbit being in my bedroom, and I always keep the door closed. I limit his outside the cage time to about 2 hours a day.

u/mycat8u · 1 pointr/Hedgehog

This or this from amazon are good options.

u/gdhhorn · 1 pointr/guineapigs

Would this one from Amazon work? I'd probably not use the ramp and just have the shelf in as a hiding place.

u/kenjones85 · 1 pointr/guineapigs

largest one i can across this and that is very close to what I have already. What is c&c cage?

u/Vitensby · 1 pointr/hamsters

My Syrian hamster has been very happy in this cage for the entire first year of his life so far. After a few days of exploratory climbing he has not once chewed on his bars or ever acted stressed because he wants out of his home.

30.5 x 8.5 x 18.5 inches:

I recommend purchasing a Wodent Wheel 11inch

and Flying Saucer 12 inches :

Bathing and Natural Nail Trimming:
Also pick up some flat Reptile Rocks for underneath his water bottle so he will trim his nails naturally and a large ceramic bowl (needs to be deep not so much wide) filled with Repti Sand Desert White (No Calcium)

My hamster is a fan of these Apple Orchard sticks for teeth filing though his lab blocks are semi hard and also good for dental health trimming.

After you get those things pick up this item as a natural grass burrow for him to sleep in and clean his cage once every week. Plastic burrow are just awful for air circulation, and my hamster never liked them at all when i didnt know any better.

For food I feed my hamster Higgins Sunburst and Kaytee Forti Diet Lab blocks everyday with fresh fruit and veggies every two days. Remember your hamster stomach is the size of your pinky finger nail so portion small. He loves 3-4 lab blocks a day with a small spoonful of nuts, seeds and fruit from the Higgins. Remember though 3 Sunflower Seeds max a day or they will get fat and unhealthy.

Looks like this but for Hamster not rat and mice:

For bedding you want UNSCENTED (it messes with their respiratory system if its scented) this Kaytee Clean and Cozy is what I use. Absorbs liquid good and keeps the smell down if its close to cleaning day.

and last but not least. Buy TWO water bottles in case one of them jams overnight you DO NOT want your hamster to suffer from dehydration. They do not need much water, but when they need it, they need it fast or will get sick quick. The kaytee water bottles have issues with the spout pointing straight so buyer beware. They often dont align properly into the cage bars. But they do work and dont leak for me. Stick with GLASS water bottles, it just tastes better honestly. 6 ounces if you will change the water daily. 12 ounces if you are not as attentive.

It seems like a lot of money at first and it is but this hamster will be your new furry friend and relies on only you to care for it, so give it the best and longest life possible. You will have one happy hamster if you get all that and will never need to upgrade anything when your Syrian grows bigger.

u/sentient_cuke · 1 pointr/LilGrabbies

the cage that she has in this picture can be found here.
recently, i got her a new cage, which is much bigger than her old one. this is her new cage.

u/PamelaBeasley · 1 pointr/RATS

That's a great cage. If you want something that may be a bit easier to clean, we have our girls in this one. I wipe it down/clean up poop every day. We change the bedding (exclusively aspen chips - their respiratory performance has been excellent) and give it a good wash-down weekly.

The girls have a spot for hanging hammocks and one of them build an extra nest/sleeping spot on the bottom of the cage each week. She goes there for alone time. They don't really like wooden chews - they much prefer paper/cardboard to chew on and keep them busy. I can't recommend this cage enough as the deep tray in the bottom allows them some privacy. And it's quite attractive.

u/AgitatedParfait · 1 pointr/RATS

No, definitely not. I have this cage as my travel cage and my boys get VERY complainy when I put them in there. If you want the Kaytee, I would recommend you get the next size up (;I have this as their boarding cage and it works well). That said, if you can, I'd suggest going for the Midwest Critter Nation cage (you could do the single layer as long as you let them out for free roam). It's so much easier to clean and move them in/out of the cage. Also, the ramps on the Kaytee are not super good quality.

u/TerdLagoon · 1 pointr/RATS

This is the cage that I got for two males. Kaytee My First Home Habitat Multi-Level for Exotics, 30 by 18-Inch

Here’s how it looks set up

I only have two complaints 1 I wish the doors were bigger and 2 the included ramps are flimsy so I replaced them with a couple lava ledges and a wood ledge. Overall great value though if you don’t mind a bin style cage.

u/violetslidey · 1 pointr/RATS

Do you know if they chew on plastic? I have a cage by Kaytee which has a plastic bottom and shelves. If you have a smaller rat, then you might look elsewhere. This has 1/2 inch wire spacing, so some could potentially escape.

u/anxioushypochondriac · 1 pointr/hamsters

Favola Hamster Cage | Includes Free Water Bottle, Exercise Wheel, Food Dish & Hamster Hide-Out | Large Hamster Cage Measures 23.6L x 14.4W x 11.8H-Inches & Includes 1-Year Manufacturer's Warranty

This is exactly what I have - is it really necessary to get her a bigger cage? I don’t have any space for a bigger cage. I could also take her back if that’s in her best interest, but i don’t think it is and I would really hate to do that, but I’m overwhelmed

I don’t use that wheel I have a 7.5 inch diameter flying saucer wheel

u/apa-theist · 1 pointr/gerbil

I have seen some reeeeeeallly cool builds with ikea cabinets like that! Maybe Christmas will be plentiful!

I really like the look of this cage but I'm not sure if it's deep enough? Definitely the first pre-fab I've seen that is at least close to the mark. (minus all the plastic bits inside)

u/Gezzer52 · 1 pointr/hamstercare

Actually, if you read the reviews it's been universally rejected for hamster use. Seems that every user has had the hamster escape from it. I think it's meant to be a guinea pig cage.

I actually made my own bin cages and then connected them to an OvO habitrail system. but be warned I spent a fair amount of money by the time I was done. I don't know what your budget is, but making a bin cage (another DIY vid ) ends up costing around 25-50 bucks, and it 's pretty easy. This is the one I've used when I made my bin cages. It ends up at around 400 sq inches which is good. The nice thing is that since it's plastic it's dead easy to cut a round hole in it to add tubes.

If DIY really isn't your thing I guess this is the pre built cage I'd choose. There are a few questions about durability, you need to change the water bottle to a safer one, and it can only connect to the manufacturer's tube system, which isn't cheap. but neither were the OvO tubes.

There are much more expensive cages as well. You can spend easily 200-300 on a nice prebuilt. Or even make one out of a Ikea bookcase. Lastly if you do decide to build a bin cage I suggest you buy or see if you can borrow a dremel tool. It makes the whole job much easier than using any sort of knife.

u/ThinkHamster · 1 pointr/hamsters

Aquariums get really heavy at larger sizes and the brittle nature of glass makes it fragile. If you want a completely see-through cage, consider something from Ferplast or Savic.

Here is one example:

u/hackitfast · 1 pointr/ikeahacks

I just wasn't sure how non-toxic the paint is. Speaking on this topic though, I upgraded my Robo's cage to this Ferplast one

u/IWuvComputers · 1 pointr/hamsters

He has a ton of floor space. I have two of these cages attached back to back.

Prevue Pet Products 528 Universal...

u/gracieargo · 1 pointr/RATS

Get a Kaytee wheel. It’s cheap, can attach to cage and spins silently: Kaytee Spinner, Giant Wheel, 12 Inch (Colours Vary)

u/fortune_cell · 1 pointr/RATS

Patti's a year old and she took to it like crazy, but the other rats (both younger – 6 months and 3 months) haven't really gotten the hang of it. If you get a wheel and they don't use it, you'll eventually have rats that do. This the the brand and size I have, and I'd recommend it. It's quiet and you can either use the stand or attach it to the cage wall.

u/washichiisai · 1 pointr/Pets

She is a dumbo!

I haven't played or done much more than get the girls food since about Wednesday last week (with Thanksgiving and being sick myself .... ). It is possible that she's had this for a couple of days. I think I would have noticed her limping before last night, and the bald spot is decently large, but it is possible that she had the problems for a day or so before I noticed.

I did a basic check last night and I was going to do a more in depth one now (since now it's light outside and I can see a bit better anyway). I didn't see any signs of mites or fleas last night, however (and the others aren't showing any signs of them), and only a couple of scratches that are healing and that I was aware of.

This is the cage, or pretty close to it (some things are moved around or different - I bought a different wheel and last night the "tightrope" was more like a U or a swing - they rarely bother doing anything regarding it anyway). The idea that she fell isn't far off - she often jumps from the lower of the two hammocks to the top-most balcony, and she doesn't always make it. Also, the flooring isn't ideal (I'm working on changing that) - being 1/2" square mesh, but it doesn't quite seem small enough for her to get her arm stuck in.

The last time I fixed up the cage was a week and a half ago (and it needs it again, I've been putting it off). Usually when I do that I tend to breakdown everything and clean it with this stuff. I haven't used a bleach solution since I first put the cage and girls together - back in March.

I wouldn't be surprised if she got into a fight. One of the other girls - Anise - often beats on Moe when she gets hormonal (so every couple of days), and I've definitely seen her aggressively "grooming" that spot on Moe's neck after a tiff.

u/Leedstc · 1 pointr/Hedgehogs

They need a wheel in their tank to run in which MUST be a closed face wheel, not the open wire mesh type.

That's the one we got, the 30.5cm version and he runs on it all the time.

u/Fartmonger8 · 1 pointr/hamsters

Excuse the formatting I'm on mobile, but the Carolina Storm Express Wheels have a reputation for being quiet and large enough for syrian hamsters despite being marketed for hedgehogs. I don't think they sell on amazon, but.

The Silent Spinners work okay, they're sold in major pet stores, though they only come in either 6 inches or 13 inches.

The Wodent Wheel in my experience isn't too loud, though every one is different.

u/Schierke · 1 pointr/RATS

Size might be okay -- a 12" wheel is supposed to be okay for average-sized rats, so I'd imagine a wheel as small as 6-8" could be fine for a dwarf. I agree about the design with holes though. Solid plastic like the Silent Spinner or Wodent Wheel is safer.

u/Firemex · 1 pointr/Denmark

Så må du bestille et nyt, når nu du ikke kan administrere dit hamsters hjul. Kan fås billigt på Amazon. Her, prøv den her:

Den er tilmed lydløs, så det ikke irriterer nogen. Fiksts.

u/georgethecurious · 1 pointr/gerbil


I buy practically everything on Amazon and these would be my top recommendations:

Hidey Hut - this is large enough to fit two grown gerbils and my first survived the chewing for close to 4 years.

Small Animal Pet Playpen/Exercise Pen - this is just tall enough for the jumpers. I've still had some be able to reach the top but it is a struggle and you'd be able to catch them in time. Really sturdy as well.

Kordon/Oasis (Novalek) SOA80304 Bell Bottle and Hold Guard Small Animal Value Set, 4-Ounce - this is by far my favorite recommendation of the bunch. I cannot tell you how many water bottles were just destroyed and I would come home to an empty bottle and a very wet gerbil. This thing is impenetrable!

Kaytee Hamster Silent Spinner, 6 1/2 inch Exercise Wheel - although I've had to buy a couple of these (they will chew the yellow part holding the bottom part to the wheel) I find that this is the sturdiest of them all. It becomes less silent the more they chew on it and push it around but it's never been loud enough to be considered especially annoying.

Great for cleaning cage and is safe

As far as dust baths go, I've tried several different kinds and find them all to be equivalent.

Would not recommend:

Ware Manufacturing Flying Saucer Exercise Wheel for Small Pet - the quality is fine here but if you are using carefresh, it gets buried and doesn't allow any give for it to spin.

Kaytee Woodland Get-A-Way Medium Hamster House - quality here is also fine and it's pretty thick so it would take a while to get them to chew. Since it is wood, it absorbs liquids. My gerbils would pee on it and it got to the point that it looked moldy and unhealthy so I just threw it out.

Alfie Pet by Petoga Couture - GARI Wood Hut for Small Animals like Dwarf Hamster and Mouse - Size: Large - this is the cutest little home I've ever seen. I had to eventually throw out though because the wood was so thin that the back wall collapsed due to their chewing and would no longer stand up.

Prevue Pet Products Multi-Color Small Pet Playpen 40090 - I think the quality is here too. It's just too short. My gerbils were easily able to escape this.

GreatChoice Water Bottle - chewed through in a week and Same

u/TheRabbitUnderTheBed · 1 pointr/gerbil

This is the wheel that he has so he could probably use a bigger one.

It seems easy to spin at least to me.

When he was in his temporary cage he had a wheel attached to it that he ran in so could he have just lost interest?

The reason I'm worried is because he does not get enough exercise and is a bit overweight now.

u/AllensWoodies · 1 pointr/gerbil

[This] ( is the best type of wheel. If you have a different type, there could be several problems. For example, their tails can get caught in a metal wheel, and they can get sick from chewing on the plastic of a thinner wheel. I recommend getting the type above if you can because it is deeper in the bottom which will help the gerbils from slipping out. Keep in mind that there could be other things going on too which are making your gerbil grumpy. Gerbils love to claim items as their own. Perhaps the grumpy gerbil rubbed her scent on the wheel and is angry that you didn't respect her territory.
Edit: link

u/dspatola · 1 pointr/hamsters
u/samson55430 · 1 pointr/hamsters

I use this for my hammy, she's a robo and runs nearly 24/7. You can also get them at Petco for pretty cheap, and they are nearly silent.

u/plopo · 1 pointr/Pets

I had a hamster in college. He didn't take up a lot of space, and I could just put him in the ball when I cleaned his cage. Definitely filled the void left from leaving my parents' dog. I'd recommend rats over hamsters, though. They don't take up too much space and are much more social. Either way, I highly recommend rodents as opposed to crabs. I loved having a warm, furry buddy to snuggle with when I was feeling blue.

Word to the wise - get a silent spinner wheel if you have roommates and/or plan on keeping the rodent in your bedroom.

u/PortlyGoldfish · 1 pointr/RATS

I use Oxbow:

I don't know anything about the food you're using now; you can probably finish out the bag without a problem, though I defer to those with more ratty nutritional knowledge than I.

u/DiscoCarp · 1 pointr/RATS

Definitely read those two series first. :)

I should have mentioned that the block food we use is 'the triangle stuff', aka Oxbow. But as you said, there are a whole lot of options.

u/Virixiss · 1 pointr/RATS

Howdy! First off, let me thank you for doing research before you pick up your rodent friend.

First off let me get the disclaimers out of the way: If you were looking for a cheap pet, you have chosen the wrong animal. Rats have a fairly high upfront cost that begins to taper down after the first 3 months or so once the major growth period is over with. Almost any attempt to cut costs on things I'll bring up as essentials is most likely going to end up as a bad move in terms of your pet's health. There are lots of places to save some money, but what I'll lay out here is not the place. Rats are also a very short lived pet. They will live for a reasonable maximum of 3 years, so there will be heartbreak down the road.

Still interested? Good. Let's get a list going then:

  1. Rats must be kept in a group. A pair is the minimum, three or more is better. Rats are VERY social animals, and need near constant interaction for other rats to stay healthy. This isn't just about mental health either; a lone rat is more prone to infections, tumors, and mental disabilities including aggression. Keeping multiple rats is no more expensive than keeping a single rat.

  2. When looking for a cage, aim for 2 sq. feet per rat. Use this cage calculator to see if your cage is big enough. Watch your bar spacing! Rats are master escape artists, so make sure that the bars won't bend, and that you have 1/2" inch bar spacing or less. Popular starter cages include the Critter Nation Single or the Prevue Hendryx Rat/Chinchilla Cage. The Critter Nation is the most popular rat cage by far, but I can vouch for the Prevue Hendryx as easy to clean and set up.

  3. Food can get pretty complicated for a first time owner, so I'll just offer easy suggestions. Feed Mazuri , Native Earth , or Oxbow. Oxbow is the most popular and most balanced, but tends to be the most expensive in smaller bags. In bulk, (20+ pound bags) the price is all about the same. I buy large bags because it's cheaper per pound and I never worry about running out. Then again I have 5 rats, so my situation is different than yours!

  4. Lots of toys and hiding places! This is where you can save money by getting creative. Store bought rat toys can get expensive, but cardboard tubes and boxes are often free! Have one hiding place per rat plus one, preferably on different levels of the cage. Hammocks are a favorite hide for rats, as are boxes, bags, and tubes. If you want to get some store bought stuff, see if you have a bird shop in your area. Almost every toy in there that is safe for birds is going to be a blast for your rats.

  5. Find a vet that is comfortable with rats. Rats don't need shots or regular flea treatments, so finding a vet can seem odd. But eventually, something will go wrong, or one of your babies will fall ill. Having a vet who's experienced with rats or at the very least willing to learn is a godsend. I'm very lucky to have a vet that is familiar with and loves rats. Because of their size and common problems, rat visits are usually very cheap when compared to a dog or a cat. I spend no more than $45 when Juniper or Sugar have a myco flareup.

  6. Don't stop researching. Subscribe to this sub. Check the side bar. Ask questions. (Feel free to PM me, I'll help you as much as I can..) Watch videos on YouTube, like The Rat Guru. Rats are a very "addictive" pet, and it's easy to fall into an obsession with the cute little boogers.

  7. Post pictures when you get them.
u/moosiferious · 1 pointr/guineapigs

I use a glass bottle. If the noise is coming from them picking it up and wiggling it, the weight of the class may help. My plastic bottle fell on the floor once while filling and broke. The glass has fallen and not broken, and you can set it down if needed. Here's a link:*Version*=1&*entries*=0&ie=UTF8

u/NullRouteMaster · 1 pointr/guineapigs

I have 3 of these and love em. No leaks and easy to clean.

u/poochyenarulez · 1 pointr/Rabbits

> Anything but this:
> Seriously, never buy that bottle.

I have that exact water bottle and it works very well, it doesn't leak at all. I actually clicked this thread to recommend that bottle.. meanwhile, the cheap plastic bottle that came with my cage would leak everywhere.

edit- I actually don't have that exact one, the one I have is a different brand, but it looks exactly the same. Mine is Critter ware that I got at the pet store.

u/walkaroundtime · 1 pointr/Rabbits

Anything but this:

Seriously, never buy that bottle.

I just use the cheapest plastic bottles available in any pet store and rarely have problems with leaks. If one does leak, I just replace it.

The thing with the bowl under the bottle is that you're basically accepting that the bottle will always leak. For $5 you can put a stop to the problem entirely!

I use two bottles and a shallow ceramic bowl. The thing with just a bowl is that even if it's bolted down, the rabbits will sit in it or fill it with cardboard or find some way to waste all the water, so I like to have a bottle as a backup. And then another bottle as a backup. Because I'm crazy I guess.

u/MissPanderp · 1 pointr/hamsters

This is what I use. Panda ended up chewing the plastic ones and I didn't notice until she had no water and her cage was sopping wet. Only thing with the glass one is that it might rust a little, so get 2 or 3. I've had one for well over 7 months before it started looking like it was rusting. There are different holders depending on which cage set up you have. There's one for tanks and one for wire cages that you can find on Amazon. Hope that helps!

u/austens · 1 pointr/hamstercare

Is the wheel spinning well? I would maybe add another wheel, whether a flying saucer style wheel (just make sure it's big enough for her) or something like this. For reference, our tiny dwarf hamster has a 8.5" wheel.

u/JLMc80 · 1 pointr/Hedgehog

The 8.5 " is likely too small to run comfortably for a growing hedgie as the spoke in the middle of this model makes them arch their back. I had the smaller one, too, but then got this one:
Kaytee Chinchilla Giant Comfort Exercise Wheel, Colors Vary

It's a 12" diameter and stands about 14" tall when on the base but can also be attached to a cage.

u/CincinnatiCobra · 1 pointr/Hedgehog

I wasn't sure about that wheel even though it was listed as a viable option on the list I was using. It does seem like it would take up more space in the habitat than a Comfort Wheel (this right?).

u/Nimphaise · 1 pointr/RATS

That’s the amazon link, Luna taught herself how to run as soon as she saw it and has not stopped! My baby also runs every now and then. The other two are not interested at all. It’s audible but not horribly loud. My roommate thought it was running water, if that helps

u/chibicyber · 1 pointr/chinchilla

I'm not sure if you're trying to get a special customized wheel, but I got the basic kaytee silent spinner wheel and my babies love it. And it's actually pretty silent. Durable, easy to install on the standard cage.

How do I insert photos here?
well anyways, here's my chin Pookah enjoying hers :)

u/stoopitos · 1 pointr/hamstercare

I love this set-up and you are doing a great job of giving your hamster some space! This is the wheel I have for my hamster: , and he loves it. Just a side note, you might want to attach some cardboard our something to the grated ramp. Hamsters feet can slip through the holes and get injured! Hope this helps.

u/cbiscut · 1 pointr/Hedgehog

Not to be a jerk, but on the subreddit information bar there is the 'care' section with Basic Care, Example Cages, Diet Basics, and Commercial Food Discussion that should get you started.

You'll want to read through What to expect from your hedgehog and ask your breeder what they use/recommend and where they get it from. If you're going through a pet store you'll likely get little to no information worth having.

For a basic run-down I'd recommend:

  • Non-Pill Fleece

  • A safe cage or Plastic Tote of pretty decent size (discard the lid).

  • A food and water dish Some prefer water bottles, DO NOT GET A SPRING-LOADED BALL STYLE WATER BOTTLE! If you're not sure if it's spring loaded, tilt it back. If the ball rolls down the tube you're good to go.

  • A solid wheel

  • Heat management with Thermostat

  • and an Igloo or other hidey-hole home.

    Please note that these are bare minimums and are the easiest to find, but not necessarily the best options. You might find your hedgie is an explorer and needs a bit more room, or you want to litter train your hedgie and you'll need some litter and a corner pan (please read up as hedgies have their own requirements for litter). You might find your hedgie is a runner and needs a Carolina Storm Wheel. Maybe your hedgie is a digger and fleece isn't going to work out (diggers tend to wreck their cages and flip food bowls if you're using fleece liners). You'll need treats, food, and make sure you have a vet that works with hedgehogs within an acceptable driving distance.

    For my hedgie's room in the winter I use something like this. So I can make sure the room stays at 72 at all times.

    Best of luck to you and your new hedgie. Once you get everything set up they're pretty low-maintenance, but if you don't start out right you'll risk your pet's health in the long run.
u/zackeaterofsouls · 1 pointr/RATS

I posted asking the same thing not long ago. If you're willing to spend 100+ (the first two are both over that) then you might as well get a Critter Nation cage, they look really well put together. Here's the one I was interested in

If you want to save money, someone told me the last one works well too (It's what I've decided to get in the near future) But you have to cover the wire flooring with fleece or something to protect their feet, cause walking on bars hurts rats' feet. Just be aware that quite a few people have complained about it being hard to put together/coming bent.

Also, make sure you get at least two rats, they're pretty social and need a buddy to interact with when you're not around/sleeping.

u/QuincytTheHedgehog · 1 pointr/Hedgehog

If you are going to use a multi level cage please make sure every ledge he could walk off of (including edges of stairs) has a small wall, their eyesight isn’t the best and they often fall and I’m sure nobody would like him to get hurt.

Depending on what you want, CritterNations has a nice two level wire cage, I’ve seen this used by many people, here’s an Amazon link:

u/Duddhist · 1 pointr/RATS

These cages are kind of an investment, but I really like them.

u/MPFuzz · 1 pointr/trashy

These are the exact cages we have. The two story and the single story. I don't know if they are any good for birds or not, we had pet rats.

u/x_Morgan_x · 1 pointr/RATS

We have two of those cages - and only one bottom between them after Margarat chewed an escape tunnel in the first one. We got a dual Critter Nation (non-affiliate Amazon link) for Xmas, but we really liked the All Living Things cages and keep them as a backup.

As for names ... For cuteness how about Wheezer and Spud? For eccentricity, I am thinking Attentive or Vigil, and Atlantis or Endeavor. Hmm ... No, no. Ooh, how about Copernicus and Galileo?

u/thenerdyrat · 1 pointr/RATS

Critter nation is that cage, the doors are the entire front of the cage. Comes in a single and double story.

u/jfm513 · 1 pointr/chinchilla

No problem! Midwest Deluxe Critter Nation We’ve modified it quite a bit.

The material is no-pill fleece we got from a fabric store and cut to fit. We use dog pee pads under the fleece for extra absorbency.

u/beefboxxx · 1 pointr/RATS

is this cage ok for 3 rats? (the one level) also i found this cage for way less money and they both look exactly the same. is there a difference between critter and ferret nation?

u/PlatypuSofDooM42 · 1 pointr/RATS

Here is the Amazon link.

We are just missing the ramps we just plan on making some.

We got it for free so that's why we didn't complain they ramps were missing.

u/thisishowiinternet · 1 pointr/RATS

How much?

I have this for my three girls

They either love sleeping on the top in their hammocks or on the bottom in the igloo, that one looks like you can throw more hammocks and hanging things in there vs mine

u/Berzerkerwar · 1 pointr/chinchilla

I went with the aspen shavings for bedding and wound up getting [this cage for them] ( I figured since they'll be in it forever I should spend a bit more on it.

u/zeronirvana · 1 pointr/chinchilla

it has two floors but there is a pan and floor with a cutout in a corner that leads between floors. i have the pan positioned to blobk the hole so my chins will be seperated. my girl attacks the boy on site. we bought him after our old boy died of pnumonia cause she looked sad. tried all the introduction method stuff but she hates him so they needed to be seperated.

here is the cage.

u/shimshimshirrie · 1 pointr/DIY

I'm looking to make non-porus replacement floors/trays for my DCN animal cage [ ] for the two large bottom floors (the very most bottom and the bottom of the upper unit).

I was thinking of using something like tile, but I'm not sure if I could get something to the right dimensions? especially with the cut out on the middle level needed to let the animals pass from one floor to the other

any ideas?

u/GrumpySunflower · 1 pointr/guineapigs

Here are a couple I've seen recommended often: If you get the materials yourself and build it on your own, you can make one of these for a lot less expensive than the website. If you're do-it-yourself-y, this is a great option. If not, maybe not so much. This one is nice because you can expand it relatively easily.

Remember that a pair of boars needs about 10 square feet (sorry, I don't know what that measurement is in meters).

u/Azusanga · 1 pointr/guineapigs

Are you talking about this cage? It's available at Petsmart.

u/i_am_ms_greenjeans · 1 pointr/guineapigs

Go with a Midwest Cage system. They aren't as expensive as a C&C, and sometimes you can get a price match at a big box pet stores.

u/owlrecluse · 1 pointr/RATS

Some facts of rat keeping.

  1. They need to be kept in pairs minimum, they're social creatures.
  2. They need a minimum amount of space per rat (2.5 sq feet per rat is usually said to be the minimum, although this varies). This isnt a cage for rats, but just as an example of how big that is, this is an 8 square foot cage for a guinea pig if the measurements are correct.
  3. If you cant give them a proper diet, enrichment, vet needs, or meet their basic needs for companionship, etc, that's abuse.
u/piggiethrowaway · 1 pointr/guineapigs

Midwest Expandable Guinea Habitat

The Midwest cage is available on amazon Canada.

u/rosedaughter · 1 pointr/guineapigs

[Guinea pig cost] (

If you don't want a pregnant pig, don't get one from a big box store. Check out Guinea Pig Rescues for your local shelter pigs! You can even get an already bonded pair so I think it's one of the best options.

I have gotten pigs before abandoned at big box stores for free because they cannot profit from selling an abandoned pet. It's hard to look for those and is mostly luck of the draw.

I get hay in bulk [here] ( with the coupon code RGP.

Tis the season to get cages on sale. The pet store ones are over priced and way too small. I reccomend a [C&C] ( or [Midwest] (

u/Sam2342 · 1 pointr/Hedgehog

This is her cage: Midwest Expandable Guinea Habitat -
I just had the lamp on for 30 minutes and it was really warm...

u/boldheart · 1 pointr/guineapigs

Would you say that this cage is a decent size for 2 guinea pigs?

u/two2teps · 1 pointr/guineapigs

Cool so the bottom part of the Trixie cage is about 8.9ft^2 with another 4ft^2 inside the upper level. This may be the perfect solution for the space I have.

I use to have one of these, but it was unwieldy and the canvas got gross in their "preferred corner". This paired with some fleeces and a water proof layer under the bottom would work great.

Thanks for sharing.

u/shanananan · 1 pointr/guineapigs

I really really like the habitat that i bought my pig:

i just took the kitchen part out and have fleece for her so she isn't just walking on canvas. It's cheap and large for a single pig. Your pig will be much happier being able to run around her cage. Plus if you wanted to get another pig, you can buy another one of these cages because they connect together! They they have a ton of room, or if they fight a lot you can make a little barrier so that they can still see each other but not fight.

u/Goombaw · 1 pointr/guineapigs

If you're unable to build a C&C for whatever reason (not necessarily you, but I know not everyone has the time or skills to build a cage from scratch), check out Midwest Habitats.

Edit: words

u/vladimir_poontangg · 1 pointr/guineapigs

[This](Guinea Habitat Plus Guinea Habitat Plus is my favorite cage. It's very easy to set up and you can add extra units if you want.

u/RandomGirlOnTheWeb · 1 pointr/guineapigs

I have used this cage from Amazon. The one I had did not have the top cage portion. My two pigs loved to run in it and it kept them contained.

u/Crow_Crash · 1 pointr/guineapigs

If you have a Prime membership for the free shipping, they're pretty cheap on Amazon (Midwest Guinea Habitat Plus). Mine were $34 each. I love these cages, but they are sort of.. flimsy? Not any less so than a C&C cage, but I don't feel like the top would keep out a determined dog or cat.

u/Microfoot · 1 pointr/guineapigs

haha, the smaller guy in the photo is actually named Scooby. I put together two of these, but had to temporarily use cardboard for the back wall because the hooks on a couple of the panels were welded shut. Had to cut the corners on the tarps at the middle so they could lay flat and overlap. For bedding I got two towels and put fleece over them. The tunnel and the grass balls are here and here.

u/BurnedItDown · 1 pointr/RATS

I've got hammocks and two of these pod things in the cage and my girls only sleep in the pods anymore. They probably like the cave/nest feel of the pod better than an open hammock.

u/sssmorgann · 1 pointr/RATS

As other people have said, ferret cages might have spaced big enough for smaller rats to escape.

I would definitely advise getting a Critter Nation cage:
Google it and go to shopping results. That's how I got mine for the low low price of $112, and that was including shipping! It's a great investment.

Pretty much anything you need for your boys you can get online: lab blocks, hammocks, chews, toys, litter boxes, etc.

I have three boys. They're not that smelly, honestly. They smell a little sweet sometimes, like cheerios and faint pee.

They're litter box trained, but occasionally miss or whiz outside their box. These are the boxes I have:
The messiest things they do are leaving lab block crumbs everywhere, missing the litter box, or chewing up a towel or napkin they got a hold of. Occasionally poops/litter fall out of the cage, especially when you clean it.

I have my cage floor covered in an old towel, with fleece on top. A couple of times a week I sweep out crumbs/chewed up mess/ stray poops with a mini broom and dustpan. If you're lazy, use a vacuum cleaner.

For full cleans, I vacuum the floor fleece, all their hideouts and hammocks, and their scraps of loose fleece they use for blankets to clean up loose mess. Then pick up the towels and fleece, shake em out like a rug outside if they're still dirty, and throw em in the washer. Wipe down the cage surfaces with baby wipes or pet cleaner. Lay down another towel-fleece later for another week or week and a half, and repeat.

Be sure to supply plenty of hideaways, hammocks, boxes, space pods (
etc. for them to sleep/cuddle/hide in.

Good treats are (most) fruits, non-sugary cereals like cheerios, nuts, pasta, pretty much anything you'd consider "healthy and natural". Occasional FrootLoops or dollops of ice cream won't hurt them either. I pretty much always share whatever I'm eating with those cute little faces.

As mentioned before, lab blocks are what you should feed ideally. They're specially formulated to have the perfect percentage of each amino acid and the right amount of fiber, etc. Plus lab blocks make their poops almost odorless! I use Harlan Teklad (also known as Native Earth, apparently) 2016 formula, which I get from "The Crafty Rat" online store:
It's pretty cheap since you can buy in bulk, and each 5 lb bag lasts a month or more.

Of course always have water in bottles available. I get the big 30 Oz critter sipper bottles from Walmart. Make sure to hang up a couple in their cage in case one leaks all out or gets clogged.

Lab blocks should keep their teeth worn down, but you can give them cardboard, wooden bird toys, lava ledges, or even deer antler to chew on. Mine pretty much never chew anything, but they love this and literally chew it to pieces:

u/Soahtree · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

$25 item

$10 item

$05 item
I think that it's really hard to choose for voting, but I think that you should gift four people.

don't go talking too loud you'll cause a landslide, Mr. Jones

I feel bad that I don't know what that's from, it must be from something.

u/brittanyyyjean · 1 pointr/RATS
u/KarmiKoala · 1 pointr/Eyebleach

They're getting old, 2 in about a month, but they're doing well so far, haven't slowed down yet. It is a sad day that I know is coming :/

I think if I had a lot more pee would probably be much more of a problem, but with just two, aside from one peeing on the other when above the other in the cage (which I've seen happen once or twice) they don't really smell bad themselves in my experience. They mostly hang out in one of these at the top of their cage, and I feel like it would be just pooled with pee if they peed in it, which they don't seem to.

u/gilactic · 1 pointr/RATS

Yeah, my rats love their Space Pod, too. Space Pod on Amazon

u/TreeFrito · 1 pointr/RATS

It's a space pod! They usually ignore it, but it was the perfect spot this morning.

u/JessicaSarah630 · 1 pointr/RATS
u/bunnies501 · 1 pointr/RATS

i actually just ordered one! we'll see how it works though since i've got picky girls.

u/tjhart85 · 1 pointr/RATS

Amazing how rats love to cram themselves into tiny spaces.

We have three rats and they all cram themselves into these pods, I really don't see how they could possibly be comfortable!

u/FrolicMeToHell · 1 pointr/hamsters

I used to have the same cage as you before I upgraded to a bin cage - a 12 or 13 inch wheel fits in fine, I have a free-standing one from amazon

u/snxnsn · 1 pointr/Rabbits

i got a litterbox with a scatterlock which really helped with the digging (dont buy this one because i think this is too small but the pic is right -

u/harleysith · 1 pointr/RATS

My ratties do the same thing. I ended up getting a litter pan with a grate (this one) and it solved the issue for us. Some rats are pickier than others about litter pans with grates, but they've gotten used to it.

u/NotASeaOtter · 1 pointr/RATS

I use this litter pan for my two boys:

And for water bottle I use one from Walmart, don't remember the brand. It has an adorable print all over it, haha. I had trouble with water bottles not working but this one has been really good!

u/yoshimi1983 · 1 pointr/Rabbits

I have the same litter box, except mine came with a metal grate. I fill the bottom with wood chips, bunny does her business, and it gets caught underneath the grate so her feet don't get messy. The white clip secures the grate so the bunny cannot lift it up.

box with grate

u/rachellefromhell · 1 pointr/Rabbits

Oh I love that enclosure! I think my buns would love that, I'll definitely look into it! What do you have as the floor?

And my litter box looks very similar to yours. I was looking at some litter boxes of this style:

I thought that maybe something like this would help contain the mess a little bit since they aren't sitting directly in the bedding, and then maybe put a bunch of hay in a big bowl in front of it or something. At least in my living room. What's the concensus on this style of litter box?

The mess they make is what it is but it would be nice to tone it down a bit if possible. My lionhead is especially messy cause all the hay sticks to her fur and she drags it everywhere!

u/Zomghedgehogs · 1 pointr/Hedgehog

I dropped the link below. We bought three of them so the bigger playpen is two and then Potato's is one. They're really big.

u/remembertosmilebot · 1 pointr/Hedgehog

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

heat lamp




Never forget to smile again | ^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

u/averillaann · 1 pointr/gerbil

A playpen is awesome! Depending on the one you get they might be able to jump it. But this one is a good one to start with. It should be easy to find in stores though.

Just make sure it's not on carpet! Blankets/clothes are fine if you can wash them. Or any washable surface. I think there's one that comes with a plastic cover too. I recommend keeping the door closed too - they are fast when they escape. But if it's set up right and someone's watching them you and he gerbs should be fine.

I highly recommend putting some hiding spots and wooden toys in there. Silent spinners (or similar type wheels) are great too. Just remember to ALWAYS supervise them! I had a female who always jumped out just to jump back in her tank. I think you can safely use and put in plastic houses and such, but test it out first. Personally, all 10+ I've put in a play pen through the years have never chewed anything but food or the fabric(if any) they were on. If they don't chew the plastic it's fine to be in there. But not their tanks of course.

It's funny to see them mark everything too. They have scent glands on their bellies which they mark their territory with. So if you see them drag their bellies it's fine. It's quite funny actually.

u/vgr1 · 1 pointr/Rabbits

Heyoz sent my two the Living World Teach N Treat Toy with the last exchange. Girl took 10 seconds to figure it out... still waiting on the boy to get it :)

u/goldbat · 1 pointr/Rabbits

Teach And Treat is REALLY cool. I have 2 buns who are both really food motivated and this has 3 "levels" or variations of puzzle for them to solve. It's really interesting how our older boy who's a little 4 pounder "politely" removes each cup and puts it neatly to the side then eats the treats. Our 1 year old 8 pound girl picks the whole thing up with her teeth, "makes it rain," and then proceeds to bonk and toss the little cups.

Snack Ball is cool too. It's not available at that link, but it's the only good pic I can find of it. I got ours at a House Rabbit fundraiser. They REALLY get good at it - we have a wood floor so it's NICE AND LOUD. It's also a good way to feed pellets - makes them exercise for them.

u/ThatFilthyMonkey · 1 pointr/Rabbits

Our bunny just lost his partner and is grieving for her so I'm probably being overly preachy, sorry.

One thing they enjoyed was this puzzle:

They solved the first level in minutes but the others took them a while to figure out. They had lots of fun with it.

u/MrsEdus · 1 pointr/ferrets
u/PocketCat · 1 pointr/ferrets


  1. I'm also allergic to cats, and Ferrets only set off my allergies a little bit (I think it's mostly because they tend to like dusty places, like under furniture, and I'm also allergic to dust) but not enough that I can't have them.
  2. Yep! Ferrets are pretty good at adapting to your schedule--I work nights, so mine come out in the afternoon before work at at 2am when I get home and are content.
  3. Large cages are good! I have a Ferret Nation two story cage ( and I love it--easy to clean, plenty of space, and you can make covers for the shelves (or buy them from ferret people!)

    Other advice:
    -See if there's a ferret shelter near you and go visit! It's a great way to learn more and make sure ferrets are right for you.

    -Ferrets should see the vet once a year and be vaccinated, so see if there are good ferret vets in your area. Vet bills can also add up (where I live, it's about $70 for the appointment and $25 for vaccination), especially since they may need emergency appointments or suprelorin implants later in life--it tends to add up.

    -Ferrets are not like cats and dogs--their temperament and care is a lot different, so definitely make sure you enjoy their quirks before taking one home.

    -Ferrets are poop machines, and they get into everything. They're great animals, but they also tend to be (lovable) troublemakers :)

    Good luck!
u/Ruman17 · 0 pointsr/Rabbits

These two times are great for customizing your bunny’s area:

Guinea Habitat Guinea Pig Cage by MidWest, 47L x 24W x 14H Inches

SONGMICS Pet Playpen Includes Cable Ties, Metal Wire

u/Anardrius · 0 pointsr/sugargliders

Buy nice or buy twice! My girlfriend and I have one of these cages and it has served us quite well.

u/yummyicecream5 · 0 pointsr/hamsters

Ferplast Hamster Cage, Black

Habitrail Cristal Hamster Cage, Small Animal Habitat

i searched online and it seems like those two are some of the best options.