Best soil test kits according to redditors
We found 232 Reddit comments discussing the best soil test kits. We ranked the 66 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 232 Reddit comments discussing the best soil test kits. We ranked the 66 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
I got the lanterns from a shop called The Range £25.99 and I got some battery operated mirco led fairy lights from a local garden centre for £2.99 for 80 bulb ones. Then stuck the battery packs on the inside top to hide them and just chucked the lights in so they were all messy. I used two Led fairy light sets per lantern. You can get the lights on amazon too.
Fairy lights - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Decorative-Battery-Powered-Bedroom-Wedding/dp/B076BPZ884/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=mini+led+fairy+light+100&qid=1572197065&s=lighting&sr=1-3
Lanterns - https://www.therange.co.uk/home-furnishings/candles-and-home-fragrances/lanterns/silver-steel-lantern/#154402
Just keep it clean and not powered on constantly. Please don't use a vaccum though. I recommend getting an electric duster like this as compressed air cans don't last very long and can sometimes blow residue onto your components.
Saved this comment from a fella in micro grocery to start my set up
These are suggestions - feel free to ask more questions if you need anything.
Read this guide - I wish I had had something like this when I started: http://homegrow-pro.com/quantum-board-build-grow-tent/ Read this guide too: http://homegrow-pro.com/the-3x3-grow-tent-setup/
Essentials
• Grow Tent: 3 ft x 3 ft x 6 ft is the size you'd probably want. This is the one I bought: https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Hydroponic-Observation-Window-Growing/dp/B01DXYMKIO
• Light: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Kingbrite-240W-samsung-lm301h-288v3-quantum_62120261175.html?spm=a2700.7803241.0.0.31d73e5fhFxf6a This light is a fantastic LED quantum board that is very easy to assemble - I got the 3000K one with the epistar
• Fabric Pots: Head to Amazon and grab yourself a 5-pack of 7 gallon fabric pots https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Gallons-Thickened-Nonwoven-Handles/dp/B00TF9E9PY/
• Also get yourself a saucer (you can get this at any garden store) and a pot elevator for each pot (pot elevator example: http://amazon.ca/Gro-Pro-725675-Level-Elevator/dp/B01J37FHF8/)
• Soil: Get yourself a bail of Pro Mix HP with mycorrhizae (it's cheap, reliable, and hard to overwater) from Canadian Tire, Rona, any store really and get also a bag of earthworm castings. Cover the bottom of your fabric pot with the castings (2-3 inches deep) https://www.homehardware.ca/en/20l-organic-worm-castings/p/5025712
• Nutrients: Gaia Green Dry Amendments (All Purpose and Power Bloom) Mix the All Purpose in with your Pro-Mix HP and then top dress your "soil" every month, changing it to Power Bloom during flowering https://www.canadiangardensupply.com/gaia-green-all-purpose-4-4-4.html https://www.canadiangardensupply.com/gaia-green-power-bloom-2-8-4-power-bloom-2-8-4-2kg.html
• Ventilation: Get the AC Infinity Cloudline T4 - it's absolutely worth it. Then purchase a 4-inch carbon filter and 4 inch tubing from Amazon (branding doesn't matter for these two things) https://www.amazon.ca/AC-Infinity-CLOUDLINE-T4-Ventilation/dp/B06ZXWN3BG https://www.amazon.ca/AC-Infinity-Dual-Layer-Aluminium-Ventilation/dp/B071LHCFZ8 https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Australia-Charcoal-Pre-filter-Included/dp/B01DXYMBU6
• Timer: You can go cheap on this, but also consider a smart timer (like a Wemo) https://www.amazon.ca/Insight-Switch-Enabled-Compatible-Amazon/dp/B00EOEDJ9W
• Seeds: Jahseeds.ca - Canadian breeder, amazing beans, amazing price! Go with feminized seeds for your first round. https://jahseeds.ca/shop?olsPage=t%2Ffeminized-seeds
Extra accessories
• Pruning shears (seperate ones for trimming live plants and ones for harvesting) https://www.amazon.ca/Pruning-Gardening-Straight-Stainless-Precision/dp/B076HL5JJM
• a lighter (for sanitizing)
• a set of tweezers, for planting your sprouted seed
• some garden gloves
• rope ratchets for your lights
• zips ties for protecting things
• binder clips (for low stress training)
• plant ties (soft rubber and wire kind)
• watering can
• two pairs of measuring spoons for dry amendments
• a clip on fan and rotating fan (for air circulation over and under the canopy)
• markers and a pack of tag plant markers for identifying plants
• soil moisture https://www.amazon.ca/Soil-Moisture-Sensor-Meter-Hydrometer/dp/B014MJ8J2U
• paper towels (for germination)
• Bucket Head Wet Dry Vacuum Powerhead Lid for 19 Litre (5 Gal.) Multi-Use Buckets great for gathering up the excess water and tipped soil) https://www.homedepot.ca/product/bucket-head-wet-dry-vacuum-powerhead-lid-for-19-litre-5-gal-multi-use-buckets/1000666690
• 3 five gallon buckets (1 for the buckethead vacuum and 2 for extra water reservoirs) and two lids
• 3 surge protector power bars
• Various AC power extension cables
• 1 trellis net (for ScrOG training)
• USB microscrope (used to check the trichomes at harvest - if you want you can also get an adapter so it plugs directly into your smartphone, as opposed to plugging it into a computer) https://www.amazon.ca/Jiusion-Magnification-Endoscope-Microscope-Compatible/dp/B06WD843ZM
• 62% Boveda packs for curing
• Mason jars for curing and storage
• hanging rack for drying (you can substitute this for a hanger and some plant ties)
• Duct tape
It's a little more expensive at the start, but this setup will pay for itself within two harvests. With this setup you can expect to yield between 8 to 12 oz every run, once you grow accustomed to the cycle.
Fellow canuck! Welcome!
These are suggestions - feel free to ask more questions if you need anything.
Read this guide - I wish I had had something like this when I started: http://homegrow-pro.com/quantum-board-build-grow-tent/ Read this guide too: http://homegrow-pro.com/the-3x3-grow-tent-setup/
Essentials
Extra accessories
It's a little more expensive at the start, but this setup will pay for itself within two harvests. With this setup you can expect to yield between 8 to 12 oz every run, once you grow accustomed to the cycle.
A 3-way soil tester will help as well because although lime will help break down the clay, adding too much base will throw off pH balance and impede microbial growth. They're pretty cheap, as seen here: https://www.amazon.com/Sonkir-Soil-Moisture-Tester-Gardening/dp/B07BR52P26
Sorry to hear about your loss.
To help you water correctly, pick up an inexpensive moisture meter. Check each plant every few days and you'll know exactly which ones need water and which ones don't. Good luck!
Here's one at Amazon. Your local hardware store or Lowes should carry them as well.
http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Indoor-Outdoor-Moisture-Hygrometer/dp/B00CTPXXEE/ref=lp_553270_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1463231948&sr=1-1
Nice! Go big or go home!
If you don't already own one, I recommend a moisture meter. It's really helped me from over-watering my plants.
Also, you do realize this is just the beginning, don't you, lol?
Soil test kit
Soil pH guide
How to create a backyard pond
You could put a cup of soil/dirt/sand outside and have a soil moisture sensor implanted inside it
Edit: Added a link to amazon for ease.
My understanding is that 1) it takes a while for the plant to start taking up the calcium, and 2) the conditions that cause blossom end rot actually set in weeks prior to fruit set.
So with this trick, you really want to do it early (assuming their is even a calcium deficiency in the first place.) I know folks who put a tablet in each planting hole when they transplant! But perhaps a treatment mid-season could alleviate the issue a few weeks later?
Before doing stuff like this, I recommend that people get a soil testing kit. They're cheap and easy to use, and will tell you if your soil really is deficient in certain nutrients or if it's another problem. Blossom end rot is more often not about a lack of calcium, it's that the tomato can't take up what calcium is there due to other factors.
My dear boy, therein lies the fallacy. No pot is too big, just the watering too frequent. Don't water your plants too frequently. Proper watering is a complete soak and then wait... Wait until the plant droops or the soil is near complete dryness. Here little Timmy, take this water meter and go forth and prosper.
If you live in a spot that gets a lot of asshats on loud bikes, you could back up your suspicions with a sound meter and camera.
Not OP, but I had the same issue with mine. I finally used a soil moisture meter similar to this one to check on soil's humidity, every few days, to make sure soil has some moisture. Marantas don't tolerate well dry soil, so the meter helps me keep it alive, without over-watering it.
I have this one
I feel like I really struggled with houseplants until I purchased a moisture meter. I tried to follow the guideline of sticking a finger into the soil to determine how damp it is, but I think my fingertips lack that level of sensitivity because I would do it and think, "Yup. That's dirt alright."
The meter changed everything and really kept me on top of watering properly. I got one on Amazon for about 10 bucks. https://www.amazon.com/Moisture-Dr-meter-Hygrometer-Outdoor-S10/dp/B00PTLGKSQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521342631&sr=8-1&keywords=houseplant+moisture+meter
Not OP, but I've been a houseplant enthusiast for almost as long as a pc gaming enthusiast. Believe it or not, it is far more preferable to underwater your plants than to over water your plants, unless very specifically told otherwise on a plant to plant basis. Most tropicals and succulents are very resilient and can withstand drought. At the same time, root rot from overwatering is the most common way people accidentally kill their plants. What you could do is stick your finger ~2 inches into the soil. If it feels bone dry you can water it then, or even wait another few days to water. If you see leaf wilt thats OKAY, just check the soil as its most likely super dry, and water it.
If you want super easy mode (and no shame at all if you do), grab one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Atree-Tester-Moisture-Outdoor-Battery/dp/B07R4RPS54/
Thats one of the best 15$ investments I've ever made for my house. Just go around checking each plant with that. If its dry, water it. If the dial moves even in the slightest, leave it alone.
Lastly, you WILL kill plants. It's just going to happen. Nobody has a perfect plant immortality rate. You'll get used to it. My recommendations for easy houseplants are:
ZZ plant
Snake plant
Pathos
You pretty much have to actually try and kill those plants for them to die.
Getting professional testing takes a couple weeks.
I used this one off Amazon; gives results in a few minutes. It told me that my soil was completely depleted of Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium. I threw down a bunch of Urea and Phosphate; my research said to not worry about potassium. And then I put down a ton of composted manure to fix the soil structure and add some organic material because my soil was heavy on clay (yours looks heavy on sand and could probably use it as well. Then I rented a tiller and went to town.
I don't remember how much fertilizer I put down, but I based it off recommendations I found on the internet easy enough. For compost I used approximately 4 cu ft per 100 sq ft of lawn.
I can't say whether or not it made a difference, but my lawn is about 2 months old and it looks amazing.
You didn't think to maybe get a power extension and take it out the back with an electric duster?
I use one that I buy off Amazon and it works great! https://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845/ref=lp_3480689011_1_2?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1538146559&sr=1-2
You local university may also have a lab where you can send a sample for testing. They usually do not cost much https://ag.umass.edu/soil-plant-nutrient-testing-laboratory/fact-sheets/sampling-instructions-for-routine-soil-analysis
soil test, amend as needed. clay is usually acidic, require lime added but there's only so much you should add each time so it might take a while to get it just right.
add compost. lots and lots of compost. you can till then add compost and till again, if you're buying enough. otherwise you can just dump on top like 2 inches, which is still going to be a truck load.
for drainage, look into dry wells, including building a trench dry well--essentially a trench with stone.
then once you establish a lawn, aerate on a regular basis and never let it dry out completely. continue to soil test and amend as needed yearly.
edit: also, once you do your soil test, you can either amend the soil to grow what you want OR just plant what grows in the soil you have. Daylilies generally grow well in clay.
Rapitest 716756 1601 Test Kit for Soil pH, Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potash
by Amazon.com
Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DI845/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_qDjzCbR5W60SH
Terra cotta pots suck the soil dry, I don't use them unless it's for succulents. I would repot this in fresh potting soil inside a different container with a drainage hole. If this guy's soil usually looks this dry, and if it's more than 5ft from a super bright-ass window it won't grow. Everyone severely underestimates how close plants have to be to a window. And no growth is a sure sign of underwatering. If it was getting enough water but not enough sunlight, it would grow, just weirdly.
If you want zero guessing involved, I would read up on what that plant likes and pick up a super cheap moisture and light meter like this one from Amazon. Has saved me a lot of trouble when I have to check if a big plant is dry or if the sunlight isn't strong enough.
One of these kits
Luster Leaf 1601 Rapitest Test Kit for Soil pH, Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potash https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DI845/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FiB2CbBR66TS5
You can use a soil moisture meter if you wanna be precise. A wooden chopstick also works great. Stick it in the pot against the side (so as to not stab the roots) and pull it out and see how moist the soil is. And if the soil gets too dry and shrinks then soak it in water.
I recommend you get a soil pH meter at a home & garden store. You shouldn't have to pay more than about $15.
Often times if the discoloration is confined to the lower leaves, that's a sign of a deficiency; the plant is stealing resources from its older leaves to nourish the more important new growth. But in your specific case, it looks like a pH issue.
In your case, I wouldn't add lime to raise the Ph. If you want to raise your Ph, I would use potassium. Your base saturation ratio is Ca-Mg-K-Na and they fight against each other and cause lock-out. Excessive phosphorus will hinder your micronutrient uptake like iron, Mn, and Zn. I find it hard to read a Mehlich 3 test w/o a saturated paste test because you just don't know what is being locked out. Here is what I use and the postage and lab fees are included: https://www.amazon.com/Soil-Savvy-Understand-Fertilizer-Recommendation/dp/B079GMTHFD/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia?keywords=soil+savvy&pd_rd_i=B079GMTHFD&pd_rd_r=811a5113-7887-4df8-b70f-702bd4155f6b&pd_rd_w=5Uyb1&pd_rd_wg=fd82g&pf_rd_p=a5491838-6a74-484e-8787-eb44c8f3b7ff&pf_rd_r=NMKM844FSY7YE2XDD1TX&psc=1&qid=1571521359
Why is hearing protection recommended? Why, to protect your ears of course!
Tinnitus is very real and very, very awful to have. Mine is very mild (I carry etymotic plugs with me always) but it's still very bothersome when I lie down to sleep (and I dislike adding white noise to drown it out).
The louder the noise, the less you can safely listen to it before it being a hazard to your hearing. Even with good earplugs in, some things just are too loud to safely deal with for more than a few hours a day, but that's better than being at risk for hearing loss and tinnitus after only ten minutes! Here's some info on how long you can listen to various volume levels. You can either guess at how loud something is via charts like so or get a decibel meter to test some of the more common things that you have to deal with.
I always try to stay under 80dB volume, listening to music around 60 (I think it's more common to listen at 75-80dB, but I have sensitive ears I guess). It is extremely easy to get regular old earbuds to be dangerously loud!
Anyhow, protect your ears. Older you will thank you, unless you routinely stay in a quiet environment all day anyhow, in which case, I'm jealous.
I use this one,
Use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BR52P26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CcTPCbC2B1JJ5
Or you could buy a simple soil test kit for like, $15 at you're local gardening store. Or even just look up nutrient deficiency symptoms. For instance- I can tell you with 100% certainty that this is NOT a nitrogen deficiency, because those deficiencies show only in older leaves, and the young leaves here are affected as well. However, it could be a magnesium deficiency.
Adding amendments just to see if they help is not only wasteful, but can be very detrimental to the environment. There are plenty of ways to make more informed choices. If it is, in fact, salt burn- then OP could actually make matters worse by fertilizing.
you should have a soil test done to determine what your current level of potassium and other macro and micro nutrients is, then move forward.
soil test can be bought here: https://www.amazon.com/Soil-Savvy-736736-Tester/dp/B079GMTHFD/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525977501&sr=8-1&keywords=soil+savvy
Or you can go to your local county extension office and they can provide you with instructions for testing.
I bought this one and I really like it!
Those soil pH meters are very inconsistent and worthless. You need to test the water & feeding water with either a quality pH meter, or pH testing drops. Those plants look like they are in rough shape and I'd be willing to bet the issue is pH related. If you want to test the pH of your soil then THIS is what I use for that.
Nutes: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006XTQGLO?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
Few packages of these to hang lights and filter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010DD743O?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
Extension cords
Plenty of options
Lights
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01B4GQ6MO?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
Fabric pots:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TF9E6XE?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
Air control
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01H1R0K68?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
Fans
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001R1RXUG/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Outlet timer:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XC7GTCN/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Tent https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01731MNJE/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Carbon filter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CJ5D4AG/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
4 inch duct
Can find anywhere
Jewelers loop (super important)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K0BGNNC?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
To dry your buds
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GXHQIKO?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
Surge protectors and ext cords
Find anywhere
Inline fans
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M7S46YZ?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
Soil probe
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017GQ9VVY/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A few other things I got locally from grow shops. Quality seeds are important. Greenpointseeds.com is always having bomb sales, ship from Colorado, and are top quality. Soil from local grow shops but can also buy from online. I went cheaper on light, but I wouldn't do that again. Get good quality lights.
You can get electric-powered air dusters. Long term they work out cheaper than canned air, don't contain bitterants and because they're electric, they're rechargeable.
I don't work for the companies selling these, but here is the US and UK links for amazon. (Other brands are available - my search was for electric compressed air)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/CompuCleaner-Xpert-Electric-Air-Duster/dp/B01G1Z0RF0/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1483881551&sr=8-6&keywords=electric+compressed+air
https://www.amazon.com/XPOWER-Airrow-Multi-Use-Electric-Computer/dp/B01BI4UQK0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483881570&sr=8-1&keywords=electric+compressed+air
https://www.amazon.com/Moisture-Dr-meter-Hygrometer-Outdoor-S10/dp/B00PTLGKSQ
I bought that one. Make sure to clean it in between tests if you go that route. When you're testing to see what the moisture level is also lift the pot. You will get used to the weight difference and soon be able to just pick up the pot and know. That meter helped me so much, some pots are so hard to tell even with a finger poke because they hide water in the bottom. I check the first inch then push deeper and to the bottom to see what's going on. It's like having a secret laser and being able to know what's up! Could even chart it if you wanted to and come up with a loose watering schedule that way! Good luck!!!!
I recommend getting a soil test. You can order a kit from Amazon or send a sample off for analysis.
Your pH could be off or your soil may need fertilizer. To grow anything you need to start with the dirt and then work your way up.
This little kit will get you started off in the right direction. I use this one and highly recommend it.
https://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845
I got one of these and use it to help with watering. Its pretty awesome.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BR52P26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cxGtDb2VK2P51
Luster Leaf 1601 Rapitest Test Kit for Soil pH, Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potash https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DI845/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZL3vDb8Z2TNZ2
I use this one. It’s actually $8 now.
yoyomax Soil Test Kit pH Moisture... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HP4FGYG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
> see http://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845
As an alternative to this test, check your local coop extension. They'll likely do a test for a similar amount, but it will be much more accurate. They'll also make recommendations on how to rectify any deficiencies.
You're welcome! I forgot to mention that before you seed you may also need to put some nutrients back into the soil. A soil test will help tell you what you need. If you want a pro test, these guys can do it, or you can talk to your local state/agricultural university (not sure where you are in zone 6, but I know that Virginia Tech and NC State offer these services, other states most likely do as well). The university tests may be less expensive.
After the soil test comes back, adjust the pH and add nitrogen/phosphorus/potassium (those are the numbers on the bags of fertilizer, like 10-18-10/N-P-K) as necessary. Good luck!
Is the soil dry below the surface? Like 1-2 inches down? I had a really hard time figuring out when to water when I first started. I purchased a moisture meter which helped a ton! I then only watered once the meter read dry. =)
They are not super accurate but will help you decide if you should water or not. If it still shows moist let it go.
http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Indoor-Outdoor-Moisture-Hygrometer/dp/B00CTPXXEE/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1462211511&sr=8-5&keywords=moisture+meter
For most garden plants, the best watering strategy is to water deeply and infrequently. This means soaking the ground enough that the water gets down past a few inches to the root level. If you do this your plants will only need to be watered about once or twice a week.
Adding a few inches of mulch around the plant base can do wonders as well to regulate the soil temperature, keep weeds out, and also keep the water in the soil from evaporating.
Lastly, you can easily test the moisture, pH, and how much sun your plants get with one of these handy meters:
Atree Soil pH Meter, 3-in-1 Soil Tester Kits with Moisture,Light and PH Test for Garden, Farm, Lawn, Indoor & Outdoor (No Battery Needed) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R4RPS54/
This is what has been recommended to me and seems to work:
Dwarf white or dwarf purple isopods are a good bet because they are generally too small for the ackie to notice and are tolerant of the high temperatures in the cage. I would consider getting maybe 10-20 and establishing a culture in a tupperware tub before introducing some into your ackie's enclosure. I have also had good luck with powder orange isopods. All three of these isopod types appear to breed pretty quickly so they should take off.
As far as springtails go, as with the isopods you want to establish a culture and let the population grow for a little bit before you begin adding bunches into the enclosure.
Some other tips:
Here are some helpful videos that should give you all the general info you need for establishing a bioactive enclosure:
Sonkir Soil pH Meter, MS02 3-in-1 Soil Moisture/Light/pH Tester Gardening Tool Kits for Plant Care, Great for Garden, Lawn, Farm, Indoor & Outdoor Use (Green) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BR52P26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FgLiDbZFW49K4
Soil pH Meter, 3-in-1 Soil Test Kit For Moisture, Light & pH, A Must Have For Home And Garden
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J1HO6XY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FykFAb8M6NBZC
I have a few of these. They work really well
For the money.
Tropical plants generally love humidity but syngonium isn't as needy as some.
A moisture meter has made all the difference for me. This is the exact one i got but anything similar will do the trick https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XOIR206/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_ZJl5phBlHaylo
https://www.amazon.com/Dr-meter-MS10-Digital-Measurement-Accuracy/dp/B00X3MD6EY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495480379&sr=8-3&keywords=db+meter
Would this be a good db meter? I want to know how loud my mix position is, as well as measure how loud things are in the various places I go.
Of course. I went light on the original post as I wasn't sure where the interest level was.
I used a Pi Zero W, and coded it in python. I ordered the probes off of Amazon (these ones). I think this github link should do the trick for the code. I am NOT a professional coder by training or proffession, so I am under no illusions about the optimal nature of my code.
https://github.com/subneutrino/moisture-code
I am using VNC to be able to check the status of the script in the evenings and on the weekend, when access to my classroom is far less convenient.
I had a difficult time with the script locking up, but it turned out the problem was exception handling, particularly tweeting when my school crappy wifi was being stupid.
Let me know if I've left anything out.
dont matter ph is a huge part to play in your plants life. you might want to invest in this https://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845 so u get more than one reading on ph and npk of soil . if its reading is 6-7 your okay then its not a ph problem. its probably the temps or idk because twisting and irregular leaves are caused by ph
Well I can say with some confidence that you're overwatering it. It's allowed to get a little dry on the soil surface. Tomatoes like it moist, not wet, so a good rule of thumb is always to water when you feel it dry about an inch into the soil (like stick your finger in). Tomatoes do need water, yes, but they also need oxygen and drowning won't allow them to "breathe". You also risk washing out nutrients needed by watering so much. Think of a sponge. You want the roots to be as moist as a wrung out sponge - still moist but not dripping from holding all that water in it.
Without looking too much into it (there are many number of things that can affect a plant and sometimes similar symptoms will have completely different causes), I would take a guess that it's a nutrient deficiency. If you've got other plants, it might be fun/worth it to get one of these kits to test it.
In lieu of that, since you're probably using standard potting soil from Home Depot which is usually fine I'd say re-pot it and stick to a slower watering schedule. Also don't forget to fertilize regularly and watch out for various insects throughout its growth.
If you don’t already have one I would highly recommend a soil tester to measure how moist the soil is. I always thought “oh it’s been over a week it should be time to water again/top of the soil feels dry enough” and had fungus gnats on several plants! Now I can quickly test the soil before watering and am surprised at how moist the soil stays in my house. I’ve cut way back on how often I water and my plants are much happier!
This is the one I got
Yeah, when I first built my PC I bought one of these, every week I use it to clean/dust it.
You can buy a soil test kit for really cheap!
It’ll tell you exactly what your plant needs :)
If you're doing soil...you want a soil PH measurement tool like THIS
Lots of good questions here!
> I put down a scotts crabgrass preventer and lawn food a few weeks ago and am aware I should fertilize again in the summer I think?
Yes but it depends on temperature. Synthetic fertilizer can stress the lawn when it is very hot. You can apply an organic slow release like milorganite or ringer which is lower in nutrients and is less likely or won't burn your lawn in high heat.
> I've though about aerating or dethatching but don't want to disturb the preemergent layer and am not sure if I need it. How do you tell if should dethatch or aerate?
Unless you can run your hand through the lawn and scrape up a fist full of thatch, you don't need to dethatch right now. You can dethatch and aerate in the fall as part of your winter prep.
> I've sprayed almost 2 gallons of roundup weed and grass killer on it over the last few days and there is still a lot of green, should I just give a week or so to see what all dies (I thought it would be faster acting)?
About 1 gallon per 300 square feet is sufficient so you've potentially more than doubled what you needed to put down (assuming 40% glyophosate strength). Hold off on applying anything else. Water this area really well. Roundup (glyphosate) is absorbed through the green leaves so it will be slow to act if the target plant is not actively growing. Give it three weeks before you reassess. It takes time.
> From reading online I'm thinking I should put down a broadleaf preemergent on the old mulch soon and also apply some kind of fertilizer to all the shrubs and bushes before the mulch gets put down.
You can use Preen either on top of the new mulch or on top of the old mulch before new stuff goes down. It's activated after the first rain or watering I believe so it will make it's way into the soil. It works by stopping root development in new plants so it won't effect established plants. Its safer than spraying a broad weed killer or pre-em since that may damage some shrubs.
> What kind of fertilizer should I use and how much?
You can use all-purpose miracle grow liquid which is easy to mix or use in the hose spray bottle. Another option might be Osmocote which is a slower-release all purpose fert in pellet form.
> I have some bags of composted steer manure I was thinking of just putting a mound around each plant underneath the weed barrier fabric.
That can work too.
> The old mulch I should say isn't very thick so I am just planning on leaving it.
No problem.
> Can I do all this without collecting, sending out, and paying for soil samples for each of these areas?
Yes. You can also get the diy soil test kit probably not as accurate as a lab but will give you an approximation.
*Edit - also yes, it will feel overwhelming and you won't get all of it done in the first year. Maintain what you have an improve in small chunks. It will come together.
If you think it might be a watering issue (which it sounds like from the other comments), I really recommend a moisture meter to help you understand what's going on in the soil! With a pot that big, it's hard to tell how wet or dry things are--the "top 2 inches" rule doesn't really work.
I just got this one, but there are some even cheaper options on Amazon if you don't want the light/pH readings.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DI845/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_3zdUzbKG5RETZ
You can test it yourself
Edit: if you don't want to do it yourself a University in the area usually offers the service. I live in Michigan, and Michigan State University will do testing for $23 a sample.
has there been any improvement over the past month? HERE is an article about proper care for your plant.
You stated that you only water when it seems dry but the article suggests once a week deep watering so that may be an issue. you also dont want to risk over watering so make sure your pot has good drainage at the bottom.
I highly suggest getting one of THESE and placing it in the pot to keep an eye one the light, water, and Ph levels.
Get one of these and let it tell you when to water
Atree Soil pH Meter, 3-in-1 Soil Tester Kits with Moisture,Light and PH Test for Garden, Farm, Lawn, Indoor & Outdoor (No Battery Needed) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R4RPS54/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NXhWDbDR66J4B
I have more if you want.
Here's a link to where you can buy the exact meter in the picture.
These are the types I have used for my lawn (small pill that you dump into water you've mixed with the soil and left sit over night, then match the colors). They worked very well. However, I am a big fan of getting your local university extension office to test your soil. Most of them do it fairly cheaply (or for free).
I got this one on amazon.
Also, the one I listed may be a bit pricey so I found this slightly cheaper option if you are only looking for the moisture levels and not the Ph or light!
Dr.Meter S10 Soil Moisture Sensor Meter, Hygrometer Moisture Sensor for Garden, Farm, Lawn Plants Indoor & Outdoor(No Battery needed) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PTLGKSQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8VMOCb89JY5Z7
This is the one that I have. You only need one for all your plants; you’ll just need to clean it regularly. The instructions say to wash it after every use but that’s a little much for me so I wipe mine between plants and wash it once I’ve checked them all. Stick the prongs down to where the roots are and it’ll immediately tell you the state of the soil. I have noticed though that sometimes the reading won’t update but a quick wash always fixes it.
I did see in some other peoples code that they only activated the sensor at a pre-set interval. I definitely want to implement that, plus I may as well start learning how to use the components efficiently. :P Luckily I did see that the dual-probe metal plated sensors were not good for the reason you stated. I went ahead and purchased a couple of the Capacitive Sensors (Link) . I used epoxy to seal the electronics and around the edge of the perf board to hopefully prevent water from entering the sensor. I have read still though that the constant usage will still eventually wear the sensor out. Thank you for sharing! I'm glad to see that there's quite a few of us working on this kind of project.
Can you spend $10-15 on a moisture sensor like this ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BR52P26/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) ? That will be the easiest and most accurate way to see if your plant is too dry/wet. If it is drying out that quickly it may be in too small a pot, and you could consider repotting.
Yeah I would have the setup at least closer to being finished, but I've been busy and I really don't want to paint with a roller on the inside. I may just end up doing it tonight so I can finally bring the dresser in and fit/hang the lighting, get the foam tape strips on and see more of what's what. I have everything needed for veg minus a ppm meter and a ph tester. I picked [this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006KY5OUG/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00) up in the hopes that it would prevent overwatering on my part. I can be a bit overzealous hah.
This is what I have used - https://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845
Fellow Michigander here. You have plenty of time to get your yard off to a good start. I brought in soil but it is not always needed. Check and see where you are after the test.
Thanks, I picked [this one](Sonkir Soil pH Meter, MS02 3-in-1 Soil Moisture/Light/pH Tester Gardening Tool Kits for Plant Care, Great for Garden, Lawn, Farm, Indoor & Outdoor Use (Green) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BR52P26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ep5pDb3T1PGV9) so hopefully that does everything I need it to
So I did the soil test kit that I bought. According to it the pH of my soil is at least 7.5, maybe a bit higher and the nitrogen content isn't detectable it's so low. Everything else looks good. I find it to be a bit odd considering the container is full of a rough mel's mix I put together of peat moss, vermiculite, compost, composted manure, and mushroom compost.
What would you recommend I do to the soil? As of right now the only ferts I have are 9-12-12, 4-15-14, and some miracle grow spray stuff that is 12-4-5.
Can we be best friends??!
I have an idea for experimenting with Mead lees for fertilizer. Think straight up 4th grade science fair type stuff. Bean plants, same soil, same light, measuring how tall they get over a period of time. I think I'll start with a pure mead and experiment with various dilution amounts. Then I might go for a second round (once I've decided on optimum dilution from the first round) with various types of flavored mead. What I'd really like would be to test the contents of the lees for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium levels so I could compare it to fertilizers. So I'll probably buy something like this!
We could go into alcohol experimentation business together!
You can try bone meal, but the only way to tell if there is a nutrient deficiency is to test the soil. I used this kit and it was pretty simple.
As for pests, there are plenty of sprays available. Regardless of which one you choose, the important part is to be consistent and don't stop when you first see an improvement. There are still eggs that will hatch and start the whole process over again.
Luster Leaf 1601 Rapitest Test Kit for Soil pH, Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potash https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DI845/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xv3yDbN3J1V2W
https://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Phosphorous/dp/B0000DI845
I just bought the one from this comment: I use this one. It’s actually $8 now. yoyomax Soil Test Kit pH Moisture... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HP4FGYG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Get yourself a moisture meter. They are cheap as hell and work well.
An example:
https://www.amazon.com/Dr-Meter-S10-Moisture-Hygrometer-Outdoor/dp/B00PTLGKSQ/ref=lp_553270_1_5/132-0216218-3969541?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1511727025&sr=1-5
I love my houseplant meter. It is SUCH a big help.
it wasn't an actual test by a lab i tried using one of these
http://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845
This is the kind of meter i was talking about: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006KY5OUG/ref=cm_sw_su_dp
I have no idea how work or what metals the probes are made of..
I agree, it's either that they're over-watered, malnourished, or both. If they're over-watered, the roots aren't getting any oxygen. They need to drink, but they need to breathe, too. If they sit in water, they rot.
This soil test is a good investment if they don't perk up from less frequent watering. It'll tell you what kind of fertilizer you need.
Yeah for sure. Buy something like this. You'll get an idea if your lawn is depleted of Nitrogen, Phosphorus, or Potash. You'll also get a measurement of the soil's pH level.
I'd fix the soil first. Thick, lush grass depends on healthy soil.
I don't know, mine works very well. Maybe yours is broken?
Sorry, on my phone but I have this one: Sonkir Soil pH Meter, MS02 3-in-1 Soil Moisture/Light/pH Tester Gardening Tool Kits for Plant Care, Great for Garden, Lawn, Farm, Indoor & Outdoor Use (Green) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07BR52P26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KP-wDbHT4Q2K7
> e
Awesome, any recommendation on a soil test kit? something like this? https://www.amazon.com/MoonCity-Moisture-acidity-Gardener-outdoors/dp/B017GQ9VVY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473276406&sr=8-2&keywords=soil+test
any sort of article or process to follow after this on what to do? sorry I am pretty inexperienced in this field.
Atree Soil pH Meter, 3-in-1 Soil Tester Kits with Moisture,Light and PH Test for Garden, Farm, Lawn, Indoor & Outdoor (No Battery Needed) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R4RPS54/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0tqmDb312C908
Noticed my CPU and drive temperatures had increased recently, went to investigate and was welcomed with a huge cloud of dust as I opened the server!
Luckily no failures as I don’t think the issue was too bad yet.
Best tool I have found for the job, CompuCleaner Xpert. Cleaned out in about 2 minutes! - CompuCleaner Xpert - Electric Air Duster https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01G1Z0RF0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vtz5AbS3XR8XK
Hey, you seem very knowledgeable. Would this be a good test kit?
https://www.amazon.ca/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524508048&sr=8-2&keywords=lawn+test+kit
Also, I moved into a new house last fall. The grass in the front yard has some bald spots that I would like to try and remedy. When is the best time to hit this with fresh soil and grass seed? When is the best time to fertilize? Also, how to you pick which grass seed to buy? Thanks for any help with this.
Something like this?: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01G1Z0RF0/ref=psdc_200925031_t1_B073F9NY1X
I was looking online for these things, and this seems pretty good. We have one can of compressed air, and my father says he can modify it so we can refill it when we need to, but getting this CompuCleaner seems easier; just plug in and use.
wow, this is a crap ton of data on that site! I can't even figure out how to find those 3 things. Anyway, can I just pick up a test kit from Amazon? https://smile.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845/
I'm lazy and getting stuff shipped to my home is easier than taking soil somewhere, lol
I'm going to go with these I think:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Decorative-Battery-Powered-Bedroom-Wedding/dp/B076BPZ884/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=wire+fairy+lights+battery&qid=1569085170&s=gateway&sprefix=wire+fair&sr=8-3
And then you can get some smaller 20 light ones that run off watch batteries.
I don't know how great they are as I haven't bought them yet but reviews are good.
I do have a long set of these style of lights that plug into the mains and I think they're amazing. Very bright and the wire is hard to see. I just hope the battery ones can generate enough power but LEDs in general are very low power so it should be fine .
Cans costs so much here (10-15€/unit) that I might get THIS instead.
A moisture meter like this one is very helpful and inexpensive. They're used by beginners and experts alike, and recommend by many pros. The back of the package usually lists the recommended readings for common types of plants. It takes out the guesswork.
Using larger/deeper plastic saucers at watering time may help you. They're inexpensive. Also, if you switch from top-watering to bottom-watering, you'll never overflow at all.
Happy growing! 🌿
> find a volume you're comfortable with and then lower volume just a bit more
That's a good rule to be extra safe but I heard finding the lowest volume you can tolerate was the most efficient method. I usually turn the volume just a small bit above the lowest volume where all the details are audible.
> Unless you're willing to invest in an dB-meter
How do people use a dB-meter for headphones? Do they just stab the dB-meter perpendicularly into the headphone cup?
Would this dB-meter be good for testing loudness?
Thank you for answering!
> I've asked this question to everyone so far but it's conflicting so I like to hear from multiple people, how do you determine if the soil is dry? Like it's not damp anymore but the soil isn't exactly dry right now
I know exactly what you mean. I often heard, "Put your finger in it halfway down and if it feels wet..." OK, if I can get my finger past the roots... it feels... cold? Sort of... I guess? I eventually got one of those "wetness detector thingies", and it helped a lot. After using it a while, I just got better at estimating. Some of my potted plants have a schedule, some just tell me with their leaves, some I can judge just by the weight of the pot. The best solution, of course, is to use quick draining inorganic bonsai "soil" (not really 'soil' at all). Over-watering is almost completely impossible. It does mean you have to water much more often. Once every day, if not more for smaller pots.
I bought this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dusters-CompuCleaner-Xpert-Electric-Duster/dp/B01G1Z0RF0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549442202&sr=8-3&keywords=blower+for+pc for my pc and found it alot better then compressed air because it can clean a-lot of stuff much faster + it's a 1 time buy generally unless it breaks.
For my UK brethren I got this one the other day, it's amazing
https://www.amazon.co.uk/CompuCleaner-Xpert-Electric-Air-Duster/dp/B01G1Z0RF0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486823546&sr=8-2&keywords=compucleaner
You can get a cheaper one though
https://www.amazon.co.uk/ITdusters-com-EGP-COM-011-CompuCleaner-Electric-Duster/dp/B00S7CH6FK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486823546&sr=8-1&keywords=compucleaner
So glad I bought it, inside my PC looks brand new now :D
Here is what I am using.
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Filter w/ fan : https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Inline-Control-Australia-Charcoal/dp/B01MSEVQ3J/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1539056270&sr=1-4&keywords=vivosun+4+inch
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I also bought some MDF board, and built a box for the fan to go into. It was a little louder than I wanted it to be, so now it's really quite. I will add a picture for you to check it out.
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Tent: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JN8REQC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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I got one of these things: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BR52P26/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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This is the only product I've used in the past, so I have nothing to compare it to, but I have had good luck with this product in recent years. Make sure the lawn is damp so it has something to adhere to the weeds.
> Also how do I test the Ph levels?
Something like this or these.
>Lastly, should I just try and dig up those big cabbage looking weeds?
Unless you get the root out along with the leaves, then I wouldn't bother as they'll just come back. Something like this tool will definitely help if you go this route. I would wait until late summer/early fall to even do that though as you will have trouble getting grass to root this late, and weeds will just come back.
I test the soil in my gardening bed. I'm too scared to test the rest of my yard's soil, hah. This is the tester I use-- it's pretty fun!
The first year I found out my soil was low in Nitrogen so I amended with blood meal. This year I only amended with composted manure and things seem pretty happy.
Possibly too much fertilizer in the potting soil. I assume you have a drain hole in the bottom. Give the plant a good rinse with cool (not cold) water for 15 minutes. That should help rinse some of the salts away.
I have one of these and tend to check the pH too. The wrong pH means the plant will not get the minerals it needs.
hahaha I am TOTALLY being a helicopter parent with this plant. How odd, but I have no shame. :) Thank you for the encouragement! I do not have a moisture meter. Is this the type you are referring to?
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https://www.amazon.com/Alotpower-Moisture-Hygrometer-Outdoor-Battery/dp/B06XC6QD3B/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=moisture+meter+for+plants&qid=1558549066&s=gateway&sr=8-4
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I will take suggestions for any type you think works best. Seems like a simple addition to the plant room!
Do you have a recommended soil sample kit? I've seen some probes like this ( https://www.amazon.com/Sonkir-Soil-Moisture-Tester-Gardening/dp/B07BR52P26/ref=sr_1_8?crid=YY2LFNJIJM8F&keywords=soil+sample+test+kit&qid=1558203214&s=gateway&sprefix=soil+sample%2Caps%2C156&sr=8-8 ) but I'm highly skeptical of them for some reason.
I had a similar issue with a house plant turns out once a week was to much water. I bought one of these 3 in 1 meters and i use it all the time to check my house plantsmoisture meter
No print out - I used this for the soil, and my API aquarium test kit to test the water.
Am I going to actively be Ph testing the soil?
Would this be a waste of a purchase?
https://www.amazon.com/MoonCity-Moisture-acidity-Gardener-outdoors/dp/B017GQ9VVY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491847542&sr=8-3&keywords=ph+test+garden
Sorry for all the questions.
How do the leaves feel? I'm not terribly experienced but if they're soft and limp (derp) then you're over-watering, crisp and under-watering. Both will have the same sag \ limp. Feel the weight of the pot and feel the soil a couple inches down to confirm if it needs water or not.
Get a soil kit like this and test your PH \ Nutes. Dial in your nutrients and correct the PH.
For the lighting, if money is an issue, you can add some CFL (2700k) for the cool color spectrum.
About 6.5 is average for Sequoia.
Here's a pH testing kit:
https://www.amazon.ca/iPower-Moisture-Garden-Gardening-Outdoor/dp/B075LRY5M7/ref=asc_df_B075LRY5M7/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292933370570&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8204099374866111320&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001530&hvtargid=pla-405973324768&psc=1
And this is a guide for testing without a kit.
https://preparednessmama.com/testing-your-soil-ph-without-a-kit/
Not using the smart meters for moisture, just light. Using this for moisture
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BR52P26/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_wrmMDbYKEC1AJ
Maybe a nitrogen or calcium deficiency? Have you tried a soil test kit? https://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Phosphorous/dp/B0000DI845/ref=mp_s_a_1_20?adgrpid=61570362848&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIv_ubt6Pm5QIV__7jBx1n-AzhEAAYAiAAEgLpV_D_BwE&hvadid=274709675642&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9019526&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t2&hvqmt=e&hvrand=1201305533024357561&hvtargid=kwd-300627101412&hydadcr=5600_9612358&keywords=soil+ph+tester&qid=1573616812&sr=8-20
The right way to do it, and it's actually law, is do a soil test and follow their recommendation.
I'm skeptical about any device that claims to tell you 'fertilizer level' of soil. Moisture level, sure, that's dynamic, something you can monitor, and actionable. Sunlight, ok, you can monitor it, it does change due to weather, not a whole lot you can do outside though. Fertilizer level? Not sure what that even means, sounds like bullshit(ha! I didn't even mean to do that) to me . Let me expand. There are 3 primary macro-nutrients that plants get from soil. Nitrogen, Potassium, Phosphorus. As far as I am aware there are no sensors that passively monitor these levels, or at least inexpensive sensors. To check these levels, there are test kits, but these are active tests, not something a probe can tell you.
You can measure pH, but this isn't something that is a dynamic feature of your soil. You can adjust it, but its something you would do before planting not throughout the season. Don't discount pH, as the soil acidity does affect what plants grow well in your soil, but it's not a data point that you need to monitor on a daily basis.
I'm planning on installing a smart sprinkler controller this spring. I'm probably going to go with Rachio or Rain Machine but there are a couple others which caught my eye. One is Netro, the other is Spruce. Both work with remote soil monitors. They're interesting, but I haven't found any real good reviews of these that don't look like they're just trying to sell the product.
If you're looking to roll your own, you can start with an [inexpensive set of moisture sensors] (https://www.amazon.com/XCSOURCE-Moisture-Automatic-Watering-TE215/dp/B00ZR3B60I/ref=pd_sbs_107_8?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00ZR3B60I&pd_rd_r=A3PXV4X97W1JT9AM8Y7J&pd_rd_w=Tpf3Q&pd_rd_wg=pHh9j&psc=1&refRID=A3PXV4X97W1JT9AM8Y7J) and use a Arduino or pi to monitor them. I'd probably use some PVC parts to build enclosures & wiring channels. 1" PVC tube with endcaps & some hotglue seems like it could make a solid enclosure for those probes. You could then write something to report and alert on the data you gather, integrate with IFTTT or smartthings... however you want to go.
I use this soil moisture sensor meter:
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Indoor-Outdoor-Moisture-Hygrometer/dp/B00CTPXXEE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1481057521&sr=8-4&keywords=Soil+moisture+meter
Perhaps OP could use a moisture meter?
> Is the leaf curling an indication of too much water or not enough?
Yes.
Leaf curling seems to be the most common symptom for a wide range of issues with citrus plants. My leaves are curling inward, while retaining their green color, with very, very few deformations (I think only one or two leaves on mine looked clipped), which leads me to suspect water is my issue. But that doesn't narrow it down on its own. If the leaves respond to watering very quickly by opening up, then the plant was thirsty. If not then you need to let it dry off some of that water. Inside your pot there is something going on called a perched water table. It's basically the soil's capillary action countering the force of gravity to allow some water to sit in the planter despite good drainage. But if you're constantly watering the plant then more of the soil is saturated and your plant is sitting in a pool of water. Not good for it.
But if your leaves are curling erratically and/ or accompanied by yellowing or holes getting chewed out then you might have a fungal/ pest issue.
Every time I've posted on here I've asked for advice on watering or how healthy my plant looks but it seems there's not a lot of activity on this sub other than a quick circle-jerk with a few upvotes every time someone posts pics of their yield. It's starting to be a real disappointment because I really want my lime to thrive.
I think following a set schedule and altering your procedure as the plant responds is really the best you can do. Get yourself something like this meter, you might find it even cheaper at your local big box.
I'd say get an arduino and hook it up to a soil moisture meter and a water release valve, although it would be overly complicated lol https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H3P1NRM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_acGUDbGR8XNPS
That's good to hear.
I'm actually user a soil PH meter like this one, and from what I can tell calibration is not necessary but I'll make sure when I get home.
I asked my wife to check the soil in a few different area's and from what she is telling me, the soil along the outer area of my tote has a lower PH (2-3) while the middle is looking a little more promising (5). Looks like I need to mix the solution up a little better tonight.
If I can rule out the meter as the problem, where would you recommend starting to resolve the issue?
no problem! Here is the one I currently have. It’s $10. However, if that is too expensive, you can always do the stick your finger about 1-2 inches into the soil trick and you should be able to feel it out that way :)
I would say the fiddle is either getting too little sunlight or too much water . Or both. My FLF almost died from root rot from overwatering , so I bought a moisture meter . After doing some research, I have found that having one is crucial to your fiddle’s health. They retain a lot of water at the roots so even if the top of the dirt looks dry it may not need water .
They are around $10 on Amazon . Here’s the one i just bought - iPower LGTESTSOIL 3 in 1 Soil Meter, 3in1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075LRY5M7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ligYCbGXTZPJA
It also measures light and PH. Stick it in the dirt and don’t water when the needle reads “moist” . In between waterings mist the leaves and trunk with filtered water .
>Will something like this work?
>
>https://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845/ref=sr_1_4?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1525790636&sr=1-4&keywords=soil+test+kit#customerReviews
>
>Or should I get the real soil savvy test where I send it in?
Oh, hey, if you want to take the guess work out of your soil moisture, pick up one of these https://www.amazon.com/COVERY-Moisture-acidity-Outdoor-Indicator/dp/B01M1CRG6R/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525562114&sr=8-3&keywords=soil+moisture+meter
(It's light meter is basically useless for sucs, as they want ALL the light)
you should look into getting one of these. Lets you know exactly how much water your soil needs
Ever since switching from the bagged cactus mixes, I have yet to lose any of my babies to rot. I use this handy moisture meter and water when they're dry. During the hot summer days, I water my plants almost every day (except for the dormant ones)
My Github
I've modded my temp code and put that up there with the soil moisture, it needs some work, I think I can get the same output with much less code, will look into it another day :)
Sounds like were in a the same boat, fairly new myself, did some C+ at college, decided I wanted to teach myself a new language, python was the winner!
I tend to the use MCP3008 for AI, got some other chips but the MCP3008 is striaght forward to use and relatively cheap, breadboard friendly chips for <£.150 on RS.
I bought these moisture sensors, I'm using soil for some Autos at the minute and have two of these stacked in a 11l pot, they have a AO & DO, even an LED to indicate when the moisture has gone, this call also be adjusted to come on earlier or later, brilliant things for £1 each :).
I've not done much in terms of a web based front end, I imagine that's the best bit, an easy way to see all of your data in chart form!
Do you use PHP or HTML?
How did you build the moisture sensors, that sounds ace! Your setup sounds cool! It's nice to meet another 420pi-man.
Most of the time, it's the watering thst is the problem, either too much or too little. One of these can really help.
How do you really use those? I bought this one from amazon and I compared it to putting my finger a little bit deeper in the soil (as in not just placing my finger on top) and it pretty much read that the moisture was in the middle for all of them, even when I just watered and even when they needed watering. It has good reviews though so I'm not sure if it's just the meter.
>How deep down do you let it get dry? How are you determining that it's dry? Eyeballing the top, or sticking your finger into it?
I have a combination PH and wetness tester. I usually eyeball it, but I check the moisture with that if I'm not sure.
>Is there a hole in the bottom of the planter?
Yes
>Your soil can't possibly be pH of 1-2. What acidic thing have you been adding that would have dropped the pH that low? Test the tester on ordinary tap water. It should be 7.
I will try this - thanks.
>Stop adding lime, it's for agriculture outdoors, where the vastly larger volume of soil, plus processes of soil chemistry and weather, work to ameliorate and regulate its effects. It's not for planters, where it can quickly and catastrophically raise your pH to Stephen King Dead Zone levels. Is that the white stuff sprinkled on top? Did the pepper that's wilted start wilting after you sprinkled lime all over the soil?
Yes - the white stuff is the lime. I mixed it with water and poured it over both plants twice over a month or two. Like I said in the original post, one of the plants exploded and started doing fantastically when I added the lime, but the other one started looking like this. They're in the exact same planter, so I'm confused why it hurt one and helped the other. I'll cut out the lime though. Any recommendations on how to help the droopy plant at this point?
https://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B01G1Z0RF0?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Hab mir den hier 2018 gekauft und der macht seinen Job wunderbar. Gibt's auch noch günstiger glaub ich. Erstaunlich stark, hab ich persönlich nicht erwartet und pustet selbst groben Staub ohne Probleme weg. Also auch ohne Probleme zwischen den Kühler - Streben etc.
Edit : rip erst jetzt gesehen dass der thread ne Woche alte ist.
I have both the 3in1 light/moisture/ph stick which seems to be accurate enough. Then I picked up this rapid soil test kit with N, P, K level tests included.
I don't think you need an homologated profesional one just to take some measures in your house. I use a cheap decibel meter like this one to know (more or less) the volume I'm listening to. Most of them are accurate enough for home measurement.
Just keep it below 80 dB are you are good to go.
https://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B0000DI845/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?__mk_de_DE=ÅMÅZÕÑ&amp;qid=1492439363&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=soil+tester
I had been watering pretty much daily, just enough to keep the top layer of soil slightly damp to the touch. Once I moved the largest plant to it's current container, I stuck one of these in there: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R4RPS54/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
With that in there, I kept it towards the top of the green bar, now I'm watering it just to keep it in the middle, usually every other day.
I can help with that. As long as you're using coco.
A perfectly moist solo cup of 100% coco weighs 280g. If you were to stick a moisture meter in the cup it would be sitting on the cusp of the blue Wet zone, but not in to it. When it gets down to about 240g a meter would read right on the cusp of Dry and now its time to water again, and bring it back to 280g. You are basically oscillating between the cusp of wet and dry, back and forth.
there is a myth out there that moisture meters dont work and for some reason all these newbie growers are missing out on a great tool to help them grow. And it will help them avoid the number one plant stunter out there - over watering. You have to rub off the oxidation with a pot scrubber once in a while. And check its accuracy once in a while by doing this esp if you are getting weird readings. get a cup of your medium medium that is dry and stick the probe in and it better be in the dry zone. Then add water until you think its medium moist and check the meter. It should be in the middle. Then fully water the cup and you should see the meter read Wet. Its easy. I have done this so many times I know how much they should weigh. Its hard to pick a cup and feel its weight because its small. Pots I can do that, but not cups, yet. This isn't really a calibration. Its a check. And if its off, then I throw the meter out and grab a new one.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B014MJ8J2U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Looking great! Can you share any tips on watering? I'll be doing my first grow in Jan and don't want to over or under water. I'll be using these to monitor soil moisture.
Thanks. I was just going to buy a soil test on Amazon. Something like this. Not good enough?