Best soldering heat guns according to redditors
We found 152 Reddit comments discussing the best soldering heat guns. We ranked the 41 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 152 Reddit comments discussing the best soldering heat guns. We ranked the 41 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
What a beautiful shot! Sometimes sacrifices must be made haha.
If you dont mind me making a small suggestion, I would try using an abrasion resistant polycarbonate infront of your lens because its the least likely to scratch or pit from debris. You can get just basic polycarb for like $5 so you could also just buy 10 and use them as disposable parts. It would save you a lot of money in the long run, and polycarb is the least likely to warp your image and if you get the thin stuff (under 0.5") it will have minimal effect on your light.
As for dew, you really just need to make sure youre above the dew point. If you have a power source, I would just buy a heat gun and point it at the edge of the poly carbonate, about a foot away. This way air is traveling along the surface of the polycarb and the lens. This would whisk away anything on them, heat them above the dew point preventing any of it, and wouldnt blow any dust in the way.
Anyway, great to read these detailed accounts from first hand photographers. Than you so much for sharing!
That's not a hair dryer, that's a heat gun. They can get up over 1000F, hot enough to burn lots of things...
Hair dryer gets up to around 150 degrees on the highest setting. Maybe if you have a really weird crazy one you are getting 180-200 degrees?
This is 30 dollars and can get a stream of heating piping out at 1000 degrees.
https://www.amazon.com/Wagner-Spraytech-0503008-Heat-Gun/dp/B00004TUCV
You're hair drier is not even in the same ballpark.
This has been brought up pretty often on this subreddit, and I feel like there is a division between two main theories on the problem:
I was in the same situation (very similar screenshot) and was told by a Google representative after a few e-mails back and forth that I was out of my warranty period. I finally got fed up with it enough that I bought a new battery and replaced it a few days ago. As others who have also replaced their batteries have said, it truly is like having a brand new phone. I highly recommend it, though the process is a pain in the ass. Being concerned anytime the phone is below 60% battery is no way to live, especially when it drops to that point so quickly after being taken off charge.
Battery - $8.99 Amazon Prime; comes with opening tools but does not include a precision knife.
Replacement back glass camera cover - $7.99 Amazon Prime; because the battery did not come with precision knives and I am not a patient man, so I clearly broke the glass.
Precision knife - $3.58 add-on item; plan ahead. Don't be like me.
Heat gun - $19.97 Amazon Prime; you can use a hair dryer but this is a ton easier.
Tutorial
If you decide to go ahead with it, best of luck.
So last weekend my father decided he needed a hand replacing the carpet in his basement with hardwood, so I ended up spending a few hours scraping up crappy vinyl tiles. For the most part three decades of apathy towards maintenance meant that they came up relatively easily, but there were a couple of patches of relatively recent tiles stuck down with better adhesive. After 40 minutes spent peeling up about a square foot with a mallet and a putty scraper he wandered by with one of these (though his is a 1700 watt model, and gets up to about 1400 Fahrenheit). 30 seconds of aiming it at the edge of a tile and the glue softened enough to pry up several inches. A minute and the tile itself softens up. Point it at the wall from a distance of 18 inches or less and the paint begins to look scorched in moments. Within half an hour we finished the rest of the floor.
Not really big enough to make significant inroads into a manhole, but I suspect they make scaled-up versions.
You should probably buy a heat gun, they aren't expensive lower end models are just ~$15-25. Typically hairdryers don't get nearly hot enough for solid blobs. The heat gun is able to put out temperatures of >750F (>395C) more than high enough temperature to soften and even melt any conventional filament you throw at it.
Everybody should double wrap and mark your batteries the second you get them, especially since 80% of the people probably don't follow Mooch's guides and get batteries from reputable places, but even then, especially 30q's are flimsy.
18650 wraps: https://www.amazon.com/Coil-Master-Battery-Authentic-Replacement/dp/B06ZZS6WVY
Insulators: https://www.amazon.com/ThreeBulls-Cardboard-Insulators-Electrical-Insulating/dp/B074P6FNSK
It's important to get an efficient hot air gun like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073RK2M2Y
DJlsb did a video a while ago: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yHXSqgw6qpY
Edit: You can get the wraps/insulators way cheaper from the links that mooch recommends but I'd get the hot air gun from Amazon.
Gentle application of a lower-power heat gun, tweezers, and patience.
Link to lower power heat gun example
I posted this a few days ago...
I followed this guide and it was definitely one of my best smoking investments.
http://www.reddit.com/r/Marijuana/comments/9k7hv/make_a_volcano_type_vape_for_25_cost_of_a_heatgun/
with this heatgun...
http://www.amazon.com/Makita-HG1100-100-Degree-Heat/dp/B00004YOKV
I totally agree about the Morphe palettes! I hate having three of them but can't tell them apart unless I pick them up. For depotting, I used two tools. I used a double sided metal spatula and a heat gun. With the spatula, one end is flat and the other end has an angled tip. That tip made it super easy to get in under the shadows. The heat gun can be found here: amazon.com/Wagner-0503008-HT1000-200-watt-Heat/dp/B00004TUCV/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1450719185&sr=1-4&keywords=heat+gun.
What I do is first push the spatula under the edge of the Morphe palette to begin to separate it from the actual case. Once the edges are lifted as far as I can without forcing it too much, I grab my heat gun. I put it on the lowest setting and concentrate it under one of the shadows. You will begin to see it pop out. That's when I take the curved end of the Spatula to slowly begin to pull it off the glue. So long as you let the heat do the work for you, it comes off easy. If it doesn't want to pop up, let it warm up some more. Then, just keep doing it to the others. The glue on the Morphe palettes can be rolled right off and honestly I only had three or four pans that I had to roll off the backs. Their pans are not magnetized so you will need the magnet stickers. When you pick up the pans, they will be hot. I used a paper towel to pick them up. Be careful not to touch the surface of the shadow until its cooled down or you will knick the top of the shadows. I hope that helps! :-)
/u/Speshuls - using these two items from Amazon, I have never had a bottle leak ever - Heat Shrink Neck Wrap Bands and Heat Gun. If you have Amazon Prime you could have 500 of the bands and the heat gun to apply them for less than $35 with free 2 day shipping. If not it might cost slightly more for shipping, I'm not sure though.
Less blow and more heat. Like this http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0503008-HT1000-200-watt-Heat/dp/B00004TUCV
Used to remove paint, bend plastic and stuff.
ZeopoCase Mini Hot Air Gun, Portable Mini Heat Gun for DIY Embossing Shrink Wrapping Drying Paint, 300W Multi Function Electrical Heat Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073RK2M2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i-1XDbHHPWGVH
Best purchase I made when I started collecting. This sits next to me as I crack open new figs. Stuck joints. Stiff hair. Crooked weapons and accessories. 👍👍
Sincerely,
Billy Mays
Keep a cup/bowl of cold water nearby to set the plastic once you have it where you want it.
Genesis GHG1500A Dual Temperature Heat Gun Kit with Four Metal Nozzle Attachments https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EU2T8GG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KJ6XCb0YS1FW2
This is the one I got, for less than $20. Great buy.
Makita HG1100 Put it right on the 2 setting on the dial and you'll be pleased with the results. Here's my review.
Another way to do this is to use an electric griddle or hotplate to heat the stones, glue side up -- you'll know when they're ready when the glue pools and becomes shiny. Then use tweezers or needle nosed pliers to place. Or for really tiny ones, you can pick them up with the point of a pencil or sharpened chopstick.
They also make tools just for setting hotfix stones, they're sort of an electric wand that the stone fits in the end of, but it's much slower because you have to wait for each stone to heat individually and the metal edges can get hot enough to burn delicate fabrics sometimes. So not my preferred method.
EDIT: Ahh, I just realized that tool is what you're referring to as a heat gun. This is what I think of as a heat gun, so I was confused for a moment.
Here is a $15 alternative
http://www.amazon.com/1200-Watt-Electric-Paint-Stripper/dp/B0025ZA76A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1314221625&sr=8-4
This $20 one reaches 1112degrees while the looft reaches 1256. I think the heat gun will work fine
http://www.amazon.com/1500-Watt-Dual-Temperature-1112%C2%B0/dp/B001G3Y84O/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1314221625&sr=8-5
If you don't need something silent, I'd recommend a Volcano valve set:
http://www.amazon.com/Volcano-Vaporizer-Solid-Valve-Starter/dp/B000RT8JZW
... and a high-quality heat gun with variable temp control and a ceramic heating element:
http://www.amazon.com/Makita-HG1100-100-Degree-Heat/dp/B00004YOKV/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=industrial&qid=1301790944&sr=8-1
This won't be as small and portable as the iolite or MFLB, but you'd be getting the quality of a Volcano for less than half the price. You could almost get a Vapor Genie, too, for that much cash. If it were me, I'd get the heatgun/valveset combo, then save a little more cash to get the Vapor Genie for traveling. Once you've tried temp-controlled vapor from a bag, you may never smoke again.
Use Heat, Scotty Peelers, and GooGone.
Not a glue gun, a heat gun. A proper heat gun will loosen just about any adhesive, intended to melt or not.
Something like this: NEU MASTER N2190 1500W Heat Gun Kit with Dual Temperature Control with Overload Protection Four Nozzle Attachments for Stripping Paint, Bending Pipes, Lighting BBQ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FSC19HL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kqIZCbFTC222G
this http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-8988-20-Variable-Temperature-Heat/dp/B00005Q7B0/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1267540282&sr=1-14
plus this http://www.gotvape.com/store/Fatboy_12mm_Vaporizer_Bowl.php
plus some stainless steel to make a screen. then just get some bamboo and a turkey bag. volcano performance for 200 bucks.
I use a heat gun. Just like a looft lighter but cheap.
It's a Load-as-You-Go device that works best when you use small amounts of concentrate ~ the size of a bb (4.3mm). Any more than that and you risk overloading the coil and burning the oil and/or making a splattery mess by the time you do manage to vape it all out of there.
Hair dryers work great for heating up the syringes and with a bit of practice, you can use a heat gun to get the oil to the consistency of water in a matter of seconds.
​
I have done this.
I just used a hot-glue gun to attach the crayons to some MDF I had lying around (painted white), then melted them with a heat gun like this.
The heat gun seemed to give much better results than a hair dryer because there is less air moving and a higher heat, which seems to equal less chance of splatter. Don't do this on paper, you need something more solid so the melting crayon doesn't warp the surface. I know most craft stores sell canvases for relatively cheap, or go the MDF painted white route for a heavier (but sturdier) piece.
I have also tried the melting-crayon-in-a-glue-gun method, but didn't really like the results as much.
I'm doing mine this weekend. I bought a heat gun off of Amazon for like $18, and did the side WRX chrome badges and replaced them with matte black ones. It worked REALLY well.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HRBJFTP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
here's the battery.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071S9JCNT
​
heat gun
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073RK2M2Y
​
optional tool kit.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015JKXLVK
​
i didn't even really need the optional tool kit i ordered, but nice to have.
​
here's the vid i watched for reference. skip from 3:30 - 5:08 as that does not need to be done.
​
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s1uFZHSWU4c&t
​
​
You wanna sear your steaks with a heat gun? I've melted butter and the like with one, I've even heated up food out of the fridge with one, so it should work. This is the one I used, on the highest setting. When I read the output temp with a thermometer it showed about 550 degrees F. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EU2T8GG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For anyone reading this, a standard heat gun has a lot of uses, but is the great for efficiently cleaning the stock of cosmoline.
To start working with eva foam, all you need is some foam floor mats (this is cheapest at Harbor Freight if you have one nearby), a box cutter, a rotary tool and adhesive. I like to use contact cement and finally a heatgun You may also want a sharpener since foam dulls blades really fast.
Here's a pretty simple tutorial by Will Morgan on how make a dagger.
I also have a more in depth tutorial on how to make a Fallout 10mm pistol out of foam
Pretty much a hairdryer that gets a bit warmer and moves less air: https://www.amazon.com/Homidic-Handheld-Electric-Portable-Embossing/dp/B07P5WFHJ7/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=heat+gun&qid=1565653381&s=gateway&sr=8-10
I have this Porter Cable one and like it: https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PC1500HG-1500-Watt-Heat-Gun/dp/B004Q04X44/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=porter+cable+heat+gun&qid=1565114996&s=gateway&sr=8-3
A pretty important feature to not overlook is being able to set it down safely right after use without the risk of burning or melting something.
The Heat/Torch is not necessary, some people just use to get rid of bubbles if it is cold where they are. You can get one like this for $12 on amazon. If you are doing the epoxy at the proper temperature, then it is less of an issue.
I build cornhole boards and I put about 5 coats of a standard polyurethane on top to protect the paint. I use the Minwax Polycrylic. That should be good for your Table.
Roasting with a popcorn popper has some significant downsides, namely you're limited to roasting a very small quantity at a time and have no heat control (some poppers don't even put out enough heat to properly roast a bean). The typical benefit for popcorn popper roasting is that you already have a popcorn popper that you don't use for popcorn so why not?
If you're going to spend $20 to roast, I'd highly recommend a hot air gun to use with a metal bowl. You can observe the roasting process with your eyes/ears/nose, and do larger (but still small - ~1/2lb at a time) batches.
Edited a profile to get your settings about right, should help.
https://files.fm/u/bbeq5kqk
Also heat guns eat up strings, just use quick passes once the gun is up to temp, if you linger on a miniature for more than 2 seconds you'll probably start to get deformations.
https://www.amazon.com/Genesis-GHG1500A-Temperature-Nozzle-Attachments/dp/B00EU2T8GG/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1524940417&sr=1-1&keywords=heat+gun&dpID=41o%252BjfZKenL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
"PETG tubing begins to be malleable at around 62 degrees celsius, and melts at 260 degrees"
I use a temperature controlled heat gun: https://www.amazon.com/Wagner-Digital-Heat-HT3500-503040/dp/B00BV14VMA
I set it at 650 I think and hold the tubing about 5 or so inches away from the nozzle. it takes 15-30 seconds to heat a tube to the point of it becoming very very floppy. Do a few tests of heating tubing up. Find a place where you can heat it up and not get heat bubbles, but even for the thickest acrylic tubing I've ever used it should take no more than about a minute to get it floppy.
If you are having trouble finding that spot and have some spare tubing, find the point where it blisters the tubing at about 3 or 4 inches away, turn the gun down and hold the tubing further away until you can do it again and not have it blister. Make sure to spin the tubing while heating so you heat all sides.
I have one of these. I turn the knob about 90° for the sweet spot. On the minimum it feels like someone is just blowing on my face unless I'm physically touching the exhaust. I'm sure there are some guns that require min settings though.
Battery OEM. Thoughts?
https://www.mobiledefenders.com/battery-for-lg-v30-authorized-oem.html
Philips head 1.5 mm screw driver/pry tools
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F303005383218
Suction cup
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F112452058313
Rear glass OEM? Idk but it has adhesive
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F223194015409
Mini Heat gun
(https://www.amazon.com/CAIDU-Portable-Embossing-Wrapping-Electrical/dp/B07DHKMMFK/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=heat+gun&qid=1568136619&s=gateway&sr=8-14)
I keep the reclaim as well, just evap the 99% alcohol. Probably has more junk in it vs everclear, never really looked. If you want something easier than a hair dryer pick up a heat gun off amazon for like $20. Usually has a neat little heat direction shield with it. I use mine for shrinkwrap, battery wraps (same thing just with graphics), melting glue off stuff, warming up my coffee cup, pretty much anything and much more efficient than the hair dryer. :)
Nice Job! I love using a Heat Gun vs a hair dryer because it targets the heat better and it has seemed to work a little better in my experience.
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-HG1300-Dual-Temperature/dp/B004NDX7O6/ref=pd_sim_sbs_469_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=41tsmU5nKYL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1BRDVM92RZ3V5JPBGT64
Also use this on those small nasty boxes you have to tear up in order to get to a small lego and you can keep the box in great shape.
Dude,
https://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0503008-HT1000-200-watt-Heat/dp/B00004TUCV/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486263218&sr=8-1&keywords=heat+gun
Seriously, it's going to be your most beloved tool. I use mine daily.
I'm not sure what you have already, but I'll link what I've enjoyed using:
THIS or THIS or THIS or THIS or THIS or Vacuum Sealer and bags from Costco or I prep the food on this and use this to put it in the bag without touching the bag...much
Positive 333! :D
Here's a 'PORTER-CABLE PC1500HG 1500-Watt Heat Gun' for $30.
We spend so much money on our hobby and know the harm of damaged wraps.
When I did my first rewrap, I found that the hairdryer I thought would work didn't produce heat. So I bought this best purchase I could have made.
I had a heat gun on hand. I've heard that a hair dryer will work, but can't vouch for the effectiveness. If you want to get a heat gun, I have this one, and it worked very well.
Genesis GHG1500A Dual Temperature Heat Gun Kit with Four Metal Nozzle Attachments https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EU2T8GG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SerOBbD9N3VW3
Heat guns are cheap.
I think they might even be cheaper at Home Depot.
I highly recommend spending a bit of money to get an actual heat gun, as opposed to a hairdryer. They're not that expensive (here's the one I have for $19), and they blow MUCH hotter than hair dryers. The advantage is that you can just sweep them across the model and the strings will basically vanish before your eyes. With a hairdryer you usually have to hold it in place for a second which can result in the warping
I second the torch.
However, if trying to save a bit after the purchase this works very efficiently too. Just hold over one spot at max temp for about 2 minutes.
A heat gun may help with managing temperature
Heat lamps and warming cabinets are also useful but a heat gun is the cheapest and possibly most accessible option that I can think of.
Easy fix. Anyone saying to cut the loop off has never actually strength tested these loops.
Watch the end of this video.
To fix your loop instead of cutting it off, buy polyolefin tubing. 3-5mm should be about right.
Next, buy a heat gun.
Cut a short length of tubing, slide it over the end of your line, and waft the heat gun so the tubing shrinks and the line inside it liquefies but does not burn. Let it cool, then peel the heat shrink back off (use a pair of tying scissors to snip it and get it started so you can peel it).
It'll be good as new. You can also cut that one off and make another if you want a new loop. Fly lines have about 2 feet of level tip material to allow for this kind of cutting.
No knot is as strong as a welded loop. Welded loops were about 3X stronger on average than every knot I tested, sometimes more. Here is my original thread on the tests I did.
Here are the results of my strength tests for the Fly Rod & Reel article:
Knot Break Strength - Tested to failure with Boga Grip using 20 lbs. monofilament
|Knot | Test 1 | Test 2|
|---------|----------|----------|
|Nail Knot (5 Turns) | 10 lbs. | 10 lbs.|
|Albright Knot (5 Turns) | 12 lbs. | 12 lbs.|
|Doubled-Line Nail Knot| (6 Turns) 8 lbs. | 10 lbs.|
|Double Surgeon’s Knot | (20 lb. to 20 lb.) 14 lbs. | 18 lbs.|
|Castwell Knot | 13 lbs. | 12 lbs.|
|Welded Loop | 20 lbs. X 3 attempts (see video)|
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Appliance-VT-750C-Fahrenheit-Varitemp/dp/B001HW8KF2
Got mine used on eBay for a great price. Done around 200 batches so far without a hiccup. Great commercial gun with superb temp control.
https://www.amazon.com/Cook-Home-Stainless-Steel-Sifter/dp/B00FMIQBX0/ref=sr_1_4?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1502284528&sr=1-4&keywords=8+cup+sifter
Same as heat gun... around 200 batches without any signs of wear, etc.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016VZRMXK/ref=s9_acsd_zwish_hd_bw_b3tC8br_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-8&pf_rd_r=WD9XAZS45FQE34EXNA9X&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=670ee0a4-45bf-5877-8aa0-923efddf4bfe&pf_rd_i=3563990011
Great thermometer... very precise and has held up well for all these batches.
I agree with the other posts saying these should be rewrapped.
I recommend some [wraps] (https://www.fasttech.com/p/6413402)
and a heatgun
35 bucks could save you a trip to the burn ward.
Heat gun!
It's completely fine, but if it bothers you visually (it did me), get yourself a small heat gun like this one and re wrapping will be fast, easy, and visually spotless.
like 80 bucks
http://www.amazon.com/Makita-HG1100-100-Degree-Heat/dp/B00004YOKV/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1267558390&sr=8-1
Here is the heat gun that I'm currently using-- http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-PC1500HG-1500-Watt-Heat-Gun/dp/B004Q04X44/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1367375505&sr=8-4&keywords=heat+gun
I've used it a few times a week for several weeks now without any complaints. It took a little while to figure out the settings, but I basically start with the highest fan setting and almost max heat for about 6 minutes. After the beans are brownsh, I switch to max heat and hit first crack in roughly 8-10 minutes. I usually try and stop before second crack and I've been pleased with the results.
The only thing I've done to help prolong the life of the gun is cut a pair of pantyhose to put over the back fans on the gun. When I'm roasting, the chaff flies everywhere, and I noticed it was getting sucked into the back of the gun. While it seems silly, this has helped keep the gun from getting any chaff stuck in it.
As far as the bowl, I just picked up a cheap stainless steel bowl from Target. I actually have a bread maker, but the Teflon coating worried me, and I think using a bowl works well.
Good luck on your first roast and let us know how it goes!
Good question, and it pains me a bit that I have a small box of unused tools that were purchased when I began. I'm sure I missed a few things, but here you go:
If links weren't provided then I already had the item.
Thanks! :D
The wax is a nice finish so far. I was messing around with some wood I found last night and dinged the wax finish with a saw. A glob of wax and about 45 seconds and the ding was gone! I'm sure if I actually hit the wood it would be a little harder to fix, but none-the-less I think wax is a good way to go.
I've used wax for lots of other projects too. It's a nice, non-coloring protector and water resisting barrier. Greta for indoors. I never tested it outside, but probably not as good outside.
The way I put the wax on is very similar to a car: first smooth the wood down to about 150 grit sand paper. Then throw a bunch of wax on and rub it into the cracks and crevices, any big voids you can just throw a big glob on the them and rub them down a bit. wait about 20 to 30 minutes for the wax to set. Then I attach a shop rag (yeah, the ol' red rags) to my orbital sander and buff away to a semi-shine. Repeating the process gets more shine.
You can also lightly heat the wood with a heat gun after you've rubbed wax on but before it's dry to open the wood pores and let the wax really penetrate the wood. I've only done this once (not on my workbench) and I was nervous of it causing the glue to fail and boards to separate - it didn't though. But always test it out first before you go and take reddit advice!
I have this cheap POS: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N9HNK6L/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It isn't exactly "tiny" but it works perfectly for heatshrink. Definitely feels poorly constructed though.
I bought this thing back in 2013 for $20 and used it for several years. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004TUCV/
I got a torch at the beginning of summer and have used it since.
$40 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019CQL60/ , and $27 for 3 bottles of propane (might be cheaper locally).
It's just markedly better.
Surprised no one has mentioned how I like to do it. I use a heat gun on the outside of the window where the 3M pad is. I have a family member hold it there as I pull on the mount from inside the car. Eventually the mount pulls right off, without any residue left. The pads are left in good enough condition that they sometime even affix again.
for the curious, I used http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NIFKRM/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to hot glue these magnets http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/100100003X/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Have you watched the Sous Vide Everything videos with the heat gun? This is the one he recommends (though it is a bit pricey).
I use this day in and day out. Does its job and never fails.
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Appliance-VT-750C-Fahrenheit-Varitemp/dp/B001HW8KF2
This is a great one i have roasted over 50 lbs with it
Some do, but I found it to not be super high end. I had my LHS shop do it for me and it was wiggling after I took my first slap shot. I popped it out and used a razor to clean off the old glue. I let my glue gun get really hot and covered the extension with it and quickly jammed it in. It doesn't move at all now.
You can also use a hair dryer if you want to try it. The glue will drip if you try to put over the stove top. I'd be careful with that.
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-GR20K-Trigger-Feed-Melt/dp/B000NIFKRM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1405025867&sr=8-2&keywords=Glue+Gun
11 bucks if you got prime, it's worth it just to have in my tool box.
I love projects like this. Your furnishings feel much more your own, and they take on a sense of permanence you can't get with big box furnishings.
A heat gun and putty knives work very well to remove the stickers. Use a low setting, don't keep the heat focused on one area for too long and keep an eye out for browning, singeing, smoking, and fire. You've got lots of space to work with so skip around to allow the wood to cool. You'll potentially be removing whatever finish is on the couch if you are too heavy handed and or use too much heat. If you plan on refinishing use the heat gun and putty knife to remove the finish.
You can try just scraping with a razor blade to remove most of the stickers and then saturating the area with full strength degreaser, such as D-Limonene.covering the area with a paper towel to keep the degreaser in place.
A couple of razor tools to consider: 4" wide short handled for large areas with thick layers of stickers. Smaller razor scrapers with metal and plastic blades. Plastic detail scrapers might be useful too.
Instead of using Goo Gone I like pure D-Limonene solution. It's a potent degreaser extracted from citrus peels and contains no petroleum distillates, unlike Goo Gone. It also comes in food safe solution - though to be safe for digestion it really does need to be quite dilute.
Use the putty knife and rags or gauze to clean the adhesive from the wood. Large Woven Gauze Sponges are more scratchy and will give more traction with absorption. Rolled Stretch Gauze Bandages have the same great absorbing properties but they're softer and great for detail work. You'll get to know what you prefer - I'm partial to gauze sponges. They're cheap and I just toss them into the compost bin as long as they aren't too bummed up with adhesive top.
To remove the degreaser dish soap and rubbing alcohol work well. I like Dr Bronner's castile soap diluted for dishwashing. Wipe down with 90% Isopropyl Alcohol. You should be good to move on to your next step, probably sanding and smoothing, patching any holes or gouges to prep for staining and finishing or painting.
I linked a whole bunch of products to give you an idea of what will work for certain applications. There are definitely other ways to achieve the same goals, this is just how I tackle this task. Please don't order everything listed here at once, see what works from you. I link Amazon because they have everything but locally owned small businesses are an invaluable resource and great when you get stuck in a project.
Don't forget your PPE'S!
Dust Mask - I like this one as you can vacuum the filters out to extend the life and reduce waste. It has a smaller profile too - my husband actually doesn't complain about wearing it, just puts it on.
N95 Respirator
Replacement filters available on Amazon
Comfortable Safety Glasses or Goggles
Heat Resistant Gloves
Long Cuff Gloves Disposable
Some type of work gloves
Good luck!
I️ just got into doing the HG/DB method from researching this sub. Can’t tell you how my roasts have turned out as today was the first batch, but here’s my set up. The slow feeder bowl is supposed to distribute the heat better. I️ also have an air popper but am not fond of the small batch size.
OurPets DuraPet Slow Feed Premium Stainless Steel Dog Bowl https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NJ4PVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4fMbAb2RD4M8H
Wagner Power Products 503008 HT 1000 1,200-Watt Heat Gun https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004TUCV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KhMbAb9GGK7NX
Heat Gun
/r/cosplayers is better for questions and advice
Would this one work?
http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0503008-1000-200-watt-Heat/dp/B00004TUCV/
Scratch the CC3D and get a Acro Naze32
You will need various size heat shrink tubing, locktite, zipties, and some 18awg or 16awg silicone wire and xt60 for your pigtail to the PDB. You don't need a headgun if you don't want, but it will make shrinks cleaner than a lighter. I like this heat gun, $23 and comes with a case/accessories, http://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-840015-Black-10-Piece-Heat/dp/B000H4I67I/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1411755802&sr=8-5&keywords=heat+gun
This soldering station is good, http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__19240__Soldering_Station_with_Adjustable_Heat_Range_US_Warehouse_.html
$14.99. Got it at digitalsupplyusa.
I didn't have the heat gun needed to remove the back so that was about $25 on Amazon, but I figure all phones will need one for battery replacement in the future so I may as well have it.
Lastly I needed 3m double sided tape, about $8, also from digitalsupplyusa.
Blessed be the Bezos
Heat Gun Variable Temperature, Yome 1800W 140℉~1112℉（60℃- 600℃） Hot Air Gun with 2 Speed-Setting, Overload Protection, 4 Nozzle Attachments for Shrink Wrapping, Crafts, Cell Phone Repairs, Orange https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HRBJFTP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FyjnDbB209HQ1
Do you mean a heat gun??
FURNO 300 Dual-Temperature Heat Gun https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M020KO1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zR30AbRJDAY0R
Heat gun like this normally used for stripping paint / general home repair will do just fine. Heat from the back evenly and the parts will be in acceptable condition. Should be less than $30. I've got some ram and PCI slots here that I unsoldered using a comparable heat gun to troll people with. ("You really unsoldered each one of those pins by hand!?") It's also really handy to re-use the jacks, headers, and connectors for other projects.
thanks for the reply. would you suggest something like this? If not could you link to the one you have? Also, any I should know about using it or is it pretty self explanatory?
Or this:
http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-8988-20-Variable-Temperature-Heat/dp/B00005Q7B0
Less portable, but only takes few seconds to get up to temperature.
Bowls= eyedroppers with silicon hose, small screen from a head shop.
While $55 does seem a little high for a magazine release with the amount of engineering, marketing, and production the price is reasonable, especially if you do not want to register.
There is also the Patriot Mag Lock for $45 or the classic Prince50 for $17
Where are you finding grip wraps for $150? a Monsterman Grip is $45
an Exile Machine Hammerhead Grip is $30
If you want a Thordsen FRS-15 or a Hera Arms Featureless Stock Then you will be spending ~$150
Of course you could make your own Kydex grip wrap for $11 plus [hardware] (https://smile.amazon.com/Kydex-Holster-Black-Eyelets-Count/dp/B00NKOX0B4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483519643&sr=8-2&keywords=kydex) and a heat gun
The reason why I hate glossy black plastic. I only did the inserts on the doors and the 2 little ones behind the steering wheel.
I used the heat gun to heat up the edges of the inserts to soften them a bit, so the wrap could be pushed up and behind using the squeegee. You'll need to use a razer to cut the wrap by the door handle though.
Buy extra wrapping and take your time. Or pay someone to do them lol.
Gunmetal grey wrap
Heat gun
Squeegee
I read that too, I will say that the stickers are VERY sticky. I hit mine with a heat gun (this one specifically, although I'm sure others do the trick) for about 15 seconds and then slowly pulled from the corner while keeping the heat on the edge. Worked like a charm without any residue or tearing.
Oh, any reliable heat gun should work. I use this one
Wagner 0503008 HT1000 1,200-watt Heat Gun https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004TUCV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_O9K1wbP1G0Y21
http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0503008-HT1000-200-watt-Heat/dp/B00004TUCV
Oboy, I'm probably the wrong person to ask. However, /u/BriThePiGuy recommends Joe Knows Electronics boxes, and /u/NeoMarxismIsEvil recommends the following:
> I would order some cheap assortment kits from people on aliexpress. These are the sort that come with like 10 of most common values of resistor, capacitor, etc.
> Other stuff:
> - WeMos d1 mini or mini pro
> - small i2c OLED displays
> - small LCD display
> - tacswitches (buttons)
> - SPDT switches
> - 74HC595 and 74HC165 shift registers
> - either bidirectional logic level shifter modules or mosfets and resistors needed to make them
> - 7 segment led displays (individual)
> - 8x8 led matrices
> - various environmental and physics sensors (often come as a kit of 20+ different modules)
> - extra breadboards
> - jumper wires
> - male and female header strips (for modules that lack pins)
> - cheap breadboard power supplies
> - voltage regulators (both LDO ICs and buck converter)
> - possibly some 4xAA or 4xAAA battery holders
> - trim pot assortment
> Those are just ideas. Some things like 7 seg led digits are pretty cheap and worth having a few of but not terribly important if you have a real display of some sort.
I personally like the assortment of bits I got in my Sparkfun Inventor's Kit, but found that I wanted more of the following:
Thanks! In order to bend the tubes you need a heat gun, something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0503008-HT1000-200-watt-Heat/dp/B00004TUCV/ref=sr_1_6?s=apparel&ie=UTF8&qid=1497451741&sr=8-6&keywords=dewalt+heat+gun
I would just get the cheapest one that you can find. You will also need a silicon insert to place inside the tubing to keep the shape while you make your bends. I used the one that came in this kit https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-hd-tube-d-i-y-kit-10and12mm
but you can probably find the insert alone for cheaper since I didn't end up using the saw included in that kit.
I ended up using one of these https://www.amazon.com/Capri-Tools-MiniKlinge-Cutter-Quarters/dp/B01DCHA3RC/ref=sr_1_cc_7?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1497452239&sr=1-7-catcorr&keywords=tubing+cutter
In order to get cleaner cuts. If you don't get the bend perfect the first time you can always take it back over to the heat gun and make any minor adjustments that are needed. The fans that I purchased came in a three pack that included a fan controller that supports up to six fans. I mounted the controller on the inside of the case because I didn't like how it looked anywhere else, but you can stick it on the case anywhere you want.
I cut the wire, soldered the individual wires,heat shrink tubing on each side, then a larger one to seal the whole splice, used a heat gun to shrink it, which also sets the glue in place.
I don’t see why more amps on your 600W ps should matter. As long as you’re providing exactly 24v, you should be fine.
I don’t know how long your run is, but you might end up w voltage drop towards the end of a very long run.
Here's the video I used
I didn't use the battery kit linked above, but it looks similar and will work. If I might suggest a heat gun as well? I found I wasn't patient enough for a hair dryer and that one worked perfectly.
I was in the same boat a few months ago. Got this one for $16 on amazon! https://www.amazon.com/Genesis-GHG1500A-Temperature-Nozzle-Attachments/dp/B00EU2T8GG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=heat+gun&qid=1551148557&s=gateway&sr=8-3
The following are the parts I'll be purchasing for this build. I think I've covered everything, but as this will be my first custom loop if someone could give it the once over and make sure I'm not forgetting something it would be GREATLY appreciated!
Link to current build
Item | Vendor | Price | Quantity |
---|---|----|----|----
[CE 280](https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-ce-280-dual","EK-CoolStream CE 280) | EK | 75.99 | 1 |
[PE 360](https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-pe-360-triple#ow_alert_box","EK-CoolStream PE 360) | EK | 79.99 | 1 | 1
Corsair SP 120 2-pack | Amazon | 27.99 | x2 |
EK 140 Revo D5 | EK | 163.99 | 1 | text
EK Supremacy EVO | EX | 78 | 1 | text
EK Pump Bracket | EX | 13.49 | 1 | text
MSI GTX 1080 Sea Hawk EK| Newegg | 569.99 | 1 | text
ATX Bridging Plug | EX | 2.49 | 1 | text
Alphacool Silicon Bending Cord | Amazon | 8.49 | 1 | text
EK-CSQ Plug | EK | 3.49 | x2 | text
EK-AF 6mm M-M Extender | EK | 2.99 | x2 |
EK Ball Valve | EK | 19.99 | 1 | text
EK X Splitter | EK | 8.99 | 1 | text
Heat Gun | Amazon | 17.71 | 1 |
Step Bit | Amazon | 10.85 |1| text
Pipe Cutter | Amazon | 7.99 | 1 | text
EK-HDC 16mm Gold Fitting | EK | 8.99 | x10 |
EK PETG 12/16 Tube | EK | 8.49 | x4 |
Hand vise: IRWINQUICK-GRIPOne-Handed Bar Clamp, Heavy-Duty, 6", 1964711 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001VND4X0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_SKWbD2mBTHRZ9
Steel plates: Round Hot Rolled Steel Plate 1/4" x 4" Diameter Circle (Pack of 2!) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YWBU1P2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Mdufzb3Q4YDXK
Epoxy: J-B Weld 8297 HighHeat 550 Degree Epoxy Putty Stick - 2 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007PP26RI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ieufzbQD017AS
And turns out my stove is way easier to heat up the steel plates. But if you're interested in a heat gun I bought this one: Genesis GHG1500A Dual Temperature Heat Gun Kit, Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EU2T8GG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pfufzbAPGCZ11
Sorry about the formatting, I'm on mobile
Like 20 bucks or so.
http://www.amazon.ca/Genesis-GHG1500A-Dual-Temperature-Green-1-Pack/dp/B00EU2T8GG/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1421787663&sr=1-8&keywords=heat+gun
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q8I3Y0Q/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_lkeWDbH5QR7XZ
Is the one they recommended. It works but is slow compared to most methods.
I don't think you are my wife, so I'll make a couple suggestions.
Do you know what kind of a camera he has? Here are a couple possible answers: Xiaomi Yi, Mobius. If he has one of these, he may be happy to upgrade to a GoPro.
What kind of quadcopter does he have? Does he fly fast and low to the ground, or high and slow to take pretty videos? This could help us make recommendations.
Here's a cheap tool that would make a good stocking stuffer: Irwin Industrial Tools 2078300 8-Inch Self-Adjusting Wire Stripper with ProTouch Grips https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OQ21CA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_hKlCwb2TJVW66
Have you ever seen him use a lighter or fire to heat up heat shrink? If he doesn't have a heat gun, that would be a good gift. Here is an example of one:
Wagner 0503008 HT1000 1,200-watt Heat Gun https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004TUCV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_GLlCwbAQPAKS4
http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0503008-HT1000-200-watt-Heat/dp/B00004TUCV/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1451922518&sr=1-4&keywords=heat+gun
Thank you for your response. I was checking out some heat guns on Amazon, such as this one: (http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-HG1300-Dual-Temperature/dp/B004NDX7O6/ref=sr_1_9?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1451924321&sr=1-9&keywords=heat+gun).
It says on the low setting, it reaches temps of 750 degrees. Am I to understand that this temperature is not going to destroy the ESC? I would obviously try to spread the heat evenly, and keep the nozzle back a bit, but 750 degrees seems awfully hot for the ESC.
I have this one Wagner HT1000 works great for heat shrink on Low setting
You use, like, a big heat gun on the whole board all at once?
What's the failure rate of the scrap parts? I'd think the heating process would have to be more delicate than that, but maybe not.
Or this
No need to spend $45+
Hi all, my goal is to construct a fluid bed roaster capable of roasting a half-pound of coffee per go.
For the motor, I'm looking at this electric leaf blower, and for the heating element, I'm looking to dissect this heat gun.
I'll use a pyrex baking tube, and a cocktail shaker to cap it off at the base. And then some machining magic to couple it to the mounting pipe.
Does it seem like this will get hot enough to roast a 1/2 pound?
I'm trying to upgrade from my current popper setup which can roast a max of 60 grams at a time (and that's with me constantly agitating with a shish kabob stick).
Edit: One possible improvement could be increasing the wattage of the heater to 2000W. Does anyone have a recommendation for a really cheap blower (or just the element itself)? Or would this water heater element work?
If I reclaim the air from the exhaust back into the pump, would this allow a 1500W heater to work?
it's a very burly blow dryer thing.
http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PC1500HG-1500-Watt-Heat-Gun/dp/B004Q04X44/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1383003118&sr=8-2&keywords=heat+gun
I don't need this completely, but it would help out a lot when I sleeve cables. Not burning my fingers on the lighter and heat shrink would be nice.
> Master Vari-Temp HG
so this one?
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Appliance-Degree-Fahrenheit-Varitemp/dp/B001HW8KF2?th=1
OH. it does have an analog dial for heat control, ok. is there another dial for fan speed control?
how do you use it? i'm using my current heatgun angled down about 30 degrees. exhaust heat is kicked back into the device and ruining mine.
mounting the gun so it points upwards would be the best for the device, but i don't think it's strong enough to make a fluid air bed roaster. mounting it so the gun sits sideways would minimize the heat pipe needed and it should still prevent lots of waste hot air from hitting the device.
I'd recommend glass, some binder clips to hold it to the bed, Elmer's purple glue sticks for adhesion, a heat gun if you live somewhere like the South and it takes forfuckingever for things like glue stick to dry (I don't have this exact one but I'm sure it'll work just fine), and a spray bottle of water and squeegee to clean all of that off every few of prints.
Also as everyone else suggested, a Pi 3 for Octopi. I'm using a 32 GB microSD that I had laying around. Just send prints from Cura to Octopi! A camera is pretty cool for time lapse shots too! I'm pretty sure this is the one I've been using, but I really don't like the one mount I've found for it so I'm going to switch to my Logitech C615 after my daughter goes to bed and I can fuck around with my setup... ;P
Get a heat gun like that one (multiple temp setting is a big plus). It's like a blowdryer, but less blow and more heat. You can use them with any bong. It helps if your slide has an insulated handle as the bowl will get pretty hot.
They heat up mad fast and won't burn your weed. I've smoked a good number of vapes in my day, and none of them hold a candle to the bong + heat gun combo.
Not the creator, but if I had to guess she went with the EVA foam floor matting method. All you need is a hot knife, a heat gun, and these cheap pieces of floor matting.
Hot Knife:
http://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X73780-Precision-Soldering-Knife/dp/B000BRBZUG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1347514744&sr=8-1&keywords=exacto+soldering
Heat gun:
http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-Power-Products-503008-200-Watt/dp/B00004TUCV/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1347514769&sr=1-1&keywords=Heat+gun
EVA Foam mat:
http://www.amazon.com/We-Sell-Mats-Interlocking-Anti-Fatigue/dp/B001EJPGG4/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1347514787&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=EVA+foam+mat
With the right tools, charcoal can be just as fast as propane, but it requires you to cheat.
After seeing how awesome the BBQ Dragon is, I realized i could accomplish the same thing with a Wagner Heat Gun for much cheaper.
I put my chimney on a metal plant stand. I rigged the heat gun with metal clamps so it blows through the charcoals from underneath. It's often ready in 5-10 minutes.
For me, the real issue with charcoal is cooling. It takes a couple hours for the fire & heat to die down. Flavor is worth it though.
Also, If anyone still doesn’t wanna spend that much buy a [heatgun](Genesis GHG1500A Dual Temperature Heat Gun Kit with Four Metal Nozzle Attachments https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EU2T8GG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rLIbBbSZYN31R
I use this heat gun heats up to 900 degrees, push the shrink as far down as it will go on the bottle, turn it on and spin the bottle. Perfect every time.
It takes around 5 seconds to shrink it so no damage to the whisky, also the shrink reacts very quickly to it.
I had one of these already for electronics and R/C airplane repairs. You may find a cheaper one at an electronics store.
I have this sealer and [this roll of tube] (http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/S-5869/Shrink-Film-Tubing/14-x-1500-100-gauge-Shrink-Tubing) and [this heat gun] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004TUCV) that I picked up to do a run of 100 board games.
All three are great, but I don't use them any more. I'm not willing to ship them (just too heavy), but if you're local to Boston by chance, we should talk.
Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:
Amazon Smile Link: this heat gun
|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|
|UK|www.amazon.co.uk|Macmillan|
|Spain|www.amazon.es||
|Canada|www.amazon.ca||
|Italy|www.amazon.it||
To help donate money to charity, please have a look at this thread.
This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.
Yes heat guns arent designed for the high heat of roasting. I found this one to be pretty good. The plastic sheath falls off though. I keep a spare and alternate them when back to back roasting. I do a lb at a time in a breach machine. Takes 12-15min or so depending on beans.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EU2T8GG
By esteps I mean extruder steps. The number of steps the stepper motor has to turn to push out 1 mm of filament. Generally you can calibrate this by telling it to extrude 100 mm of filament and measuring how much it actually extruded. I don't know specifics of your printer but you should be able to find information about your specific printer indicating if that is something most people do. Here is the procedure for a different printer, it will give you some idea what to look for for yours: https://3dprinterwiki.info/extruder-steps/
To clear out a potential clog take off your nozzle and hold it in front of a heat gun on high with pliers. The filament will pretty much evaporate away. Can use tiny nozzle cleaning drill bits, you can get on amazon or aliexpress, to clean out any that doesn't evaporate.
If you don't have a heat gun you can get them for $10-$20 at Harbor Freight or Amazon. This is the one I bought and it works well (looks like it has went up in price since I bought it though):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EU2T8GG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> its thicker than I remember
How old is the nozzle? Maybe it is worn and the hole is now bigger than 0.4mm? (brass nozzles are consumables if that is what you are using)
This is the one I have. Have used it several times to fix tops and wet spots and it works great! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EU2T8GG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I mean use a heat gun like one of these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EU2T8GG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525443704&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=heat+gun&dpPl=1&dpID=41o%2BjfZKenL&ref=plSrch
Another option would be to use a heat gun.
http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0503008-1000-200-watt-Heat/dp/B00004TUCV/