Best solvent-based adhesives according to redditors

We found 44 Reddit comments discussing the best solvent-based adhesives. We ranked the 8 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Solvent-based Adhesives:

u/snackdrag · 9 pointsr/transformers

weldon plastic weld. It will melt and mold the plastic into one piece again. You use syringes. It's how they make lexan boxes and display cases, but i've rebuilt snapped ball joints and hinges with it. There's one that just does the weld, and one with acrylic filler to bridge gaps/build up. Takes some practice but worth learning. https://smile.amazon.com/SCIGRIP-10315-Acrylic-Cement-Low-VOC/dp/B003HNFLMY/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=weld+on&qid=1570714265&sr=8-9 and
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=68wYkXgO8_U

u/Turtlelover73 · 4 pointsr/papercraft

As other people said, spraying on a coat or fifteen might work.


But I think the best option (at least in terms of quality) is gonna be to make a mold one way or another. That's pretty difficult to do with paper, since it's
A: Not totally sealed, so the mold material can get inside and completely ruin the mold.
2: It's not waterproof so it can get just ruined by the liquid in your mold material of choice.
III: Some molds get extremely hot when they're curing, which can damage the mold. And
four: paper doesn't hold up well under weight so you'd be hard pressed to make a two-sided mold that wasn't awful, meaning you could only have something with one totally flat side.


I think the best option would be to find some kind of spray layer that you can apply safely (or paper mache, I've heard that works pretty well at improving structural integrity) and beef up the object with that first, then make a mold of that. Another idea I've toyed with before but never tried was to reinforce the model from the inside. My plan was to go with foam crack sealant, but I haven't had a chance to try it yet.


Alternatively, get yourself some styrene sheets and make it out of those. They're really pretty excelent for model building if you have the patience and care to cut out the sections. I'd suggest cutting out all the external shapes (IE not the internal tabs or anything) from a papercraft model out of the styrene, just a bit oversized, then assembling the papercraft model.


You could then use the model as a reference for how to assemble the styrene (using this glue to seal them together. If you hold it in place for a good couple minutes or have an internal support of some kind, it'll hold its shape remarkably well.) Once it's assembled it'll be pretty damn sturdy, and you can clean up any rough edges with some sanding and fill any gaps with a bit more glue and some scrap styrene slivers. Then you have either a pretty decent hard plastic toy right there, or you can make a mold of it if you want a soft kinda toy of some kind.


Hope that helps!

u/VegaWinnfield · 3 pointsr/CFB

They hacked Sumlin's Amazon account and found an order for 20 bottles of this. The offense should be clicking this weekend.

u/nojro · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

Acrylic glue creates a chemical bond and works great with PLA. Give that a try, or else I've also used some 2 part epoxies that work well.

Edit: this stuff. Work with it above cardboard or something as it's very runny. Chances are, the pressure of the bottle will cause it to start squeezing out the moment you open the bottle for the first time.

https://www.amazon.com/SCIGRIP-10315-Acrylic-Cement-Low-VOC/dp/B003HNFLMY/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=acrylic+glue&qid=1566941428&s=gateway&sr=8-4

u/Mia__Kay · 3 pointsr/PrintedMinis

Oh my wolf and his tiny feets haha Sorry about that! Spiders looks great though~


So, I'd go with gluing it back on or using it as a dead wolf mini. Super glue has worked swell for me when repairing minis. This has been recommended to me, and also works great. It is a bit more forgiving than super glue.

https://www.amazon.com/SCIGRIP-10315-Acrylic-Cement-Low-VOC/dp/B003HNFLMY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=acrylic+cement+glue&qid=1566472844&s=gateway&sr=8-3


Cheers,

Mia Kay

u/mrthirsty15 · 3 pointsr/DnDIY

https://www.reddit.com/r/DnDIY/comments/6x7nig/oc_acrylic_flying_miniature_stands/?st=j70mgv4s&sh=0c9743e9

I went and made a post about it, but I'll leave the reply below...



I have, I can post pictures when I get home tonight. I made 2x2 and 4x4 stands, at 2 different heights. They're supported in the corners.

The platforms are acrlyic, and I scored in a grid on the bottom side (so if need be, I could use dry-erase on the unscored side, this has never come up though... lol). The corner post is also acrylic. I purchased everything from McMaster-Carr, but you can get the same materials on Ebay for a bit cheaper, I just had a few other things I was ordering from them at the time.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#plastics/=196icwz

https://www.amazon.com/SCIGRIP-10315-Acrylic-Cement-Low-VOC/dp/B003HNFLMY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1504192570&sr=8-4&keywords=acrylic+glue

I sketched up a 3D model to illustrate how they're assembled. I used an acrlyic adhesive that actually melts/bonds the acrylic pieces together, so it's quite a strong connection. If I were to redo it... I'd maybe go with a 3x3 grid, with a center post, but I've had a handful of metal minis on the edges of the 4x4's and there's hardly any deflection.

Finally, here's a photo of a pirate ship where I used 2 of the 4x4's to elevate the deck, and then the 2x2's to create a lookout's nest. Everything was quite sturdy (the floors of the ship are cardstock).

u/Insanely_Mclean · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

For gluing PLA, nothing works better than a little dichloromethane. Careful though, it's nasty stuff. You definitely don't want to be breathing the fumes or getting it on your skin.

u/Naughty_Cantata · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Another cheap, quick solution that can look quite nice is styrene. All you need are styrene sheets, an exacto knife, a ruler, some brush-on adhesive (can be had cheaper), and a little paintbrush. Cut two pieces of styrene, hold them together, brush a little adhesive on, and there ya go. Popular with modelmakers.

It's pretty tough stuff, bonds quickly and sturdily, it's very easy to work with, and it can take filler/paint quite well if you want to get fancy.

u/stopbeingsocow · 2 pointsr/fountainpens

Three hairline cracks. One half inch crack on the section, one quarter inch crack on the barrel and another small one on the barrel. I'm thinking I'll use maybe this or this instead of the first link.

u/Atrechet · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I use Scigrip #3 (https://www.amazon.com/SCIGRIP-10799-Acrylic-Solvent-Water-thin/dp/B00466V8F0) and am happy with the results. It dissolves the PLA so it's not actually glue so much as a solvent weld.

u/DZCreeper · 2 pointsr/watercooling

https://www.amazon.com/Acrylic-Plastic-Cement-Applicator-Bottle/dp/B0149IG548

That stuff? Should work great, it forces a chemical reaction that melts the edges of the material so it can rebond. Just let it sit for a day or two before using the block.

u/ipswitch000 · 2 pointsr/FixMyPrint

ok, since it's pla your solvent choices are limited. Acetone might soften the pla up a bit, making it easier to remove, but since it's only going to work at best partially (it doesn't actually work on pla, only on whatever other additive plastics are present in the brand of pla you have) you really have only a few choices, and they're all nasty chemicals. Tetrahydrofuran, and Ethyl Acetate are the two I know off the top of my head. They're both moderately nasty stuff and possibly cancer causing so take care if you decide to try them. It might be easier and safer to get some of this:

https://www.amazon.com/Acrylic-Plastic-Cement-Applicator-Bottle/dp/B0149IG548/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1470760033&sr=8-1&keywords=ips+weld+on+3

from the reviews it seems that it's a pretty effective pla solvent, so letting some of that sit on the glass for a few minutes might remove the discoloration.

u/GrimResistance · 2 pointsr/DIY

Maybe you could use some plastic angle molding on the corners as well? Or something like this?

Edit: Actually here's some acrylic solvent, it basically welds the two pieces together.

u/nicclimbs · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

WATER based adhesive. I used this 3m contact adhesive for my cork flooring as it was specifically required but you could find something cheaper. The price was not so good and I was reluctant to buy it but it is very green, has no odor, and worked amazing.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000660IJ6/ref=twister_B00QVINUP2

u/cheapshotfrenzy · 2 pointsr/PrintedMinis

https://www.amazon.com/SCIGRIP-10315-Acrylic-Cement-Low-VOC/dp/B003HNFLMY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=scigrip+pla&qid=1564958389&s=gateway&sr=8-1

This is the stuff I use and it works great. It only works for certain plastics which has been nice because it peels off anything I accidentally get it on.

I've been meaning to coat some pieces with the stuff because it kind of melts the plastic to weld it together. Doesn't do it enough to disfigured the print but it might be enough to hide the layer lines.

u/birde · 1 pointr/architecture

http://www.amazon.com/Weld-On-3-Acrylic-Adhesive-Pint/dp/B000KZUTEM

It takes some time to get the hang of it, but this will give a clear and solid bond. The adhesive will eat away at any plexi it touches, so you have to be careful. Practice before you use on your cut pieces.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hT6Ow_cBTps

u/17jwong · 1 pointr/Louqe

The bubbles form naturally during the bonding process; it states this on the back of the container. Here is a link to the Amazon page where I purchased the acrylic cement.

> The product you bought might call it weld, but it really, its not.

This is the same product and technique people use to build acrylic aquariums. If it's good enough for them, it's good enough for me.

> Why do you think all mods/pro today use rubber gasket.

Here's an acrylic reservoir made by Swiftech that is joined with cement and not gaskets.

Edit: just responding to your ninja-edit, I use Weld-On 3 because I feel the faster bonding time makes the pieces easier to work with, plus it's one of the most commonly recommended acrylic adhesives along with Weld-On 4.

u/holtenc · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Thanks! I use SciGrip #4

https://www.amazon.com/SCIGRIP-Acrylic-Solvent-Cement-Water-thin/dp/B000KZUTEM

it melts a thin layer on each half and then dries. very strong bong with PLA. Not sure if it works on other filaments

u/definitelynotbeardo · 1 pointr/boardgames

There are solvent based glues for acrylic that would avoid some of the issues you had with hot glue (like the random strings). You typically have to clamp/hold in place the pieces until it's set, but they work really well. This is an example.

u/thunderballfists · 1 pointr/DIY

Weld-on #4

$11 per pint best deal I've found.

u/metajames · 1 pointr/headphones

If it is injection molded plastic I would suggest a solvent based glue like Weld-On 4 Cement. It is very thin like water and will get get in between the plastic parts. This type of glue works by melting the plastic together, making a very strong bond with very little contact area. Apply it with a needle applicator, you can buy it in a kit like this. https://www.amazon.com/Weld-Acrylic-Plastic-Cement-Applicator/dp/B0149IG548/

Hold the button cover on and very carefully flow the solvent from the needle into the seam between the parts. Hold or gently clip (without deforming the parts) for about 5 min the allow to cure overnight.

u/ncsucodemonkey · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Good to know. I was going PETG to PETG and this stuff was the only thing I could find that worked: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0149IG548

u/netlohcs · 1 pointr/woodworking

Most of my learning has come from just working with it, I wish I had some better resources for you. I'd suggest checking out youtube but I dont have specific links. The stuff that I usually get has brand names of either "hyzod" (has a picture of a rhino on it), makrolon, and bayer (has the same bayer logo as the pharmaceutical pills).

Regarding rigidity, i'm using 1/2", so yes its quite stiff. Thinner pieces, say 1/8" or even thinner, is somewhat flexible. The material itself is probably about the hardness of PVC, probably slightly softer.

Bonding. There's the rub. You can buy different glues for it, in different thicknesses:

https://www.amazon.com/SCIGRIP-Acrylic-Cement-Low-VOC-Medium/dp/B005ZH31W2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1517550935&sr=8-5&keywords=acrylic+glue

https://www.amazon.com/SCIGRIP-10315-Acrylic-Cement-Low-VOC/dp/B003HNFLMY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1517550935&sr=8-3&keywords=acrylic+glue

Its honestly more of a "weld" than anything. the water thin stuff (first link) works great, and works FAST, but your joint better be perfect. I use the "fast set" stuff, and initial bonding occurrs within 10 seconds. They even make "very fast" set, i can't imagine how quickly you'd have to work with that stuff. I apply it with a syringe that I got from my dentist. It has taken me a lot of practice to get to a decent level. Don't plan on your joints being optical grade by any means.
Its worth noting that the stuff I get has a scratch resistant coating on it, and the glue WILL NOT WORK on the coating. You have to cut it off with a dado etc.

The stuff is awesome though once you get used to working with it. tools MUST be sharp or it will melt.

If you're bored, check out a few other things I've made with it:

https://imgur.com/gallery/pntR7

https://imgur.com/gallery/1Sv4G


u/Chrytical · 1 pointr/funkopop

This is the stuff we use to attach the tape to fixtures when we work. We paint on two thin layers, let it dry, and then stick the tape to it. It's expensive, but it does the job. It's what is holding the tape up inside Stephen Colbert's desk right now!

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Fastbond-Contact-Adhesive-Gallon/dp/B00QVINUP2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450743139&sr=8-1&keywords=3m+contact+cement

u/TheOriginal_RebelTaz · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Tried E6000 and Duco Cement... neither worked too well. The parts stuck, but would come apart if you pulled hard enough - which wasn't too hard. This stuff - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003HNFLMY - is the best I've found. It actually welds the plastic like the old (pre-PC) Testors modeling cement used to.

u/marklein · 1 pointr/3Dprinting
u/Jsjdhagyyoqpqkdn · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

WeldOn 16 in the tube. I use it in my office and no odors.

SCIGRIP 16 10315 Acrylic Cement, Low-VOC, Medium bodied, 5 Ounce Tube, Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003HNFLMY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zvZUCb8SJ1R99

u/MirroredLineProps · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

It's a specific product. It's a solvent that 'melts' PLA and other plastics together. Forms a good bond and doesn't require as smooth a surface as super glue. That, and it cures really quickly.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00466V8F0/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469751238&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

u/jet-setting · 1 pointr/ReefTank

Yep just bought the acrylic from Amazon.

Amazon link
The backing is just about 1/4" higher to keep the water only coming over the front. Use this to fuse the pieces together

u/Dc5e · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

If you're gluing two flat surfaces (a model cut in half), SCIGRIP 3 will work well.

https://www.amazon.com/SCIGRIP-10799-Acrylic-Solvent-Water-thin/dp/B00466V8F0

It's water thin, and so when you put the two pieces together and apply the solvent, it wicks into the groove and chemically welds the two pieces. It also has a very short working time (under a minute). If you need longer, I think there's SCIGRIP 4 and others versions.

u/fuzzy_one · 1 pointr/cosplay

What type of glue to use always depends on what type of material you are gluing. For 3d printing it will depend on what type of filament you are printing with. I use PLA+ and have decent results with CYANOACRYLATE, commonly called CA or superglue. It works in holding things together but it does not take much force to separate the parts again.

The best glue is one that welds the two parts together, that means dissolving the PLA a little bit. The best one I have found for this is an Acrylic glue. Read all the cautions before hand as the stuff is nasty and “dries” fast. Here is what I used from Amazon.