Best sports & outdoors derailleurs & shifters according to redditors
We found 336 Reddit comments discussing the best sports & outdoors derailleurs & shifters. We ranked the 200 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Honestly, I wouldn't bother moving from 3x8. New derailleurs etc will over-capitalize the bike for no real benefit. Would however remove and bin the grip shifters and replace with Shimano ef51 shifter/brake combo units for a much nicer riding experience, and would maybe also think about some new V-Brake units like these Shimano br-t4000, do some new cables/housing and maybe a new BB.
For the fork, something like the Surly Pack Rat (I think yours is a 1 1/8) would be an option. In terms of riding position, I would swap in a shorter 50mm-60mm stem instead of what looks like a 110mm (as u/miasmic said). and mess around with the spacer arrangement.
These alterations, EF51 click shifters, newer/stiffer V-Brakes, new cables and cockpit re-arrangement, should rejuvenate the bike significantly.
You can't fix that. Send the pic to the seller and demand satisfaction. Probably the bike was not packed properly for shipping, or the shipper brutalized it.
If you can't get it replaced for free, the part is $20: https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Tourney-Derailleur-RD-TY300-Direct/dp/B01D2WQ0TM and you can install it easily yourself.
You may or may not need to take the bike to a shop to have the derailleur hanger (silver piece) straightened. If you bought the bike mail-order, ask them to send you a new one of those too.
For anyone interested, I was able to keep the cost super low for three main reasons:
https://www.amazon.com/microSHIFT-Shifters-SB-R473-Derailleur-Bicycle/dp/B011IL1EP4
This is a direct replacement.
Here is how to replace it
Here's how you'd price it out at a bare minimum, it won't be "cheap" and ultimately if you end up getting more invested in the sport then you'll want to move on to a dedicated road bike anyway. Here are some of the lowest priced options to do this.
Shimano Tourney Shifters $80
Drop Handlebars $25
Shift Cable Set $9
Bar Tape $7
Problem Solvers Travel Agents $18
Stem $15
Total: $154 + Shipping,
Additionally a set of allen keys if you don't have those.
In broad strokes there are five things you need to consider, in order of importance:
1 - How does the derailleur mount to your frame? If you have a hanger with a threaded hole below the dropout you use the "normal" modern style like so
Otherwise if your dropouts (mostly older frames) don't have a hanger you need to use one like this or get an adapter.
2 - (Again broad strokes, there are exceptions) you need to consider the brand. Don't mix Shimano with SRAM.
3 - You need a derailleur for the number of cogs in your rear cassette / freewheel. A 10-speed mountain rear derailleur won't work with 9-speed mountain shifters, for example. There are, again, exceptions but that gets very complicated very quickly.
4 - You need a rear derailleur capable of taking up all the chain slack your gears will create. The rear derailleur not only shifts the rear, it also uses that long dangling cage with two pulleys to tension the chain. The amount of chain used when in the big chainring up front is a lot more than the amount of chain used when in the small. The rear derailleur doesn't shift those front chainrings, but it does take up the slack. You need a rear derailleur which can take up all the slack your chosen drivetrain can generate. (BigChainring-SmallChainring)+(BigCog-SmallCog)=How much slack a drivetrain generates. The longer the "cage" the more chain slack a rear derailleur can tension, but the worse it shifts (in theory) and the more likely it is to get hit by trail obstacles (because it hangs lower). That's why most people run the smallest cage they can. Cages come in three general length categories: Short, medium, and long. MTB cages are almost always medium or long, and road cages are almost always short or medium.
5 - Clutch or not. Clutch derailleurs are (in theory) harder to shift but they don't bounce around as much off road, preventing the chain from bouncing as much on rough terrain, decreasing the chance of the chain popping off the front chainring.
.
As far as "what's better than what": Longish article on Shimano and SRAM's heirarchies
Looks like Microshift knockoffs? Which is weird, since Microshift is already kind of the knockoff brand. Might be worth it to just get the name brand knockoffs.
They would likely be a problem. The thing with most modern handlebars is the tube diameter gets larger closer to the stem so you wouldn't be able to mount them up top and if you could they likely wouldn't clear the space in between the drop section. You could mount them on the bottom of the drop bars but this would be awkward and could easily result in a crash. You are best off getting drop bar specific brake/shifter combo or "brifters". Since it is a 7x3 speed bike you will be limited for shifters and will have to get the Shimano Tourney brake/shifter set like here or a MicroShift set.
Get this Altus rear derailleur (assuming I correctly counted you have an 8 speed cassette). $21 shipped. Big pulley and jockey wheels are great, it’s a small upgrade from your current model.
Here’s a rear derailleur removal and install video:
https://youtu.be/IN4-jFRD8-Q
Parktool has great videos on adjusting or overhauling a rear derailleur but not one specific to removal and installation.
If you can spare another ten dollars, these basic sunrace shifters should work for that bike, there's a few different variations so you can measure your tubing to be sure.
So /r/bikewrench and /r/bicycling are much more active sub-reddits that you may see more attention on, but I can try to help you out here.
Switching the bars could require a few things:
Stem Size and by extension handlebar size: the Escape has a stem made for 31.8mm diameter handlebars with pretty large bars actually. Most drop bars you find will be 25.4mm at the stem and 23.8mm everywhere else. Any discrepancy can be an easy fix with some shims (either bought or made). It is also possible (according to Sheldon Brown) that your current bars may have very similar sizing to standard drop bars. The stem may also need to be shortened or lengthened to comfortably accommodate for the new handlebars and riding positions.
Braking: As you may or may not have noticed most drop bars come with brake levers that allow you to access the levers while riding on the drops. This is important because it allows you more leverage at the moments when you are going the fastest. Check out this image stolen from 'Lovley Bike' that shows the typical 'breaking on the drops' position.
While it is not necessary to have these brakes and the 'hoods' that accompany them it is an excellent idea and gives more hand positions! Alternatively it is possible to use levers only on the flats of the drop bars (but not the ones you currently have may need the aforementioned shims).
Shifting!
I see the Escape has Shimano M310 trigger shifters. Those also may have to go. They, like the brakes, can be mounted on the flats of the bar but it is only very low end bikes that do this to their riders. There are an ungodly number of ways to incorporate shifting on a bike with drop bars. You can integrate them into the brakes with STI's, stick them on the end of the bars with Bar End Shifters, Get them onto the stem like many vintage bikes Stem Shifters or get them on the down-tube for a classic look Down Tube Shifters...
That aside the only real options up there that you have for a conversion are Bar-end or "Brifters" Brake/Shifters...reusing your old ones could work but it would be inelegant.
Geometry MOST IMPORTANTLY! Your bike was designed to be ridden upright, the stem, top tube, every inch of the bike assumes the rider is using flat bars. There is no telling really what the ride will 'feel' like after you start riding on the hoods/drops. Its not as bad as most hybrids with front suspension but I could not tell you anything about how it might feel once the swap is made.
For moving forward I see a few options
Option 1 Quick and Dirty Get some drop bars and some old cans. Strip your current bars of components and install the drops(don't forget shims), If sheldon is correct about the size of over-sized road bikes all your old components should slide onto the flat part of the drops and just fit. It would be a unique way to ride but mostly functional...Personally I would have concerns about how safe it would be.
Option 2 More hand positions!
If what you want is more hand positions don't overlook bar end attachments:
Bar end attachments
Orgin 8 might actually have the answer to your prayers: Bolt On Drops
Option 3 Dress her like a roadie
Trying to make your hybrid into a road bike is usually not the right way to go but...with $10-30 for bars, and $100 for Shifters and Brakes, plus $10-20 for complete re-cabling across the bike (MTB and Road bikes use different cable ends) and of course labor if you aren't that handy. Tack on $10 for bar-tape to make her pretty and comfortable and you aren't that far in the hole.
You don't get off any easier for Bar Ends once you get the appropriate brakes its about the same. All that and your former hybrid could pass any scrutinizing test of a lycra-clad cyclist, you'd have yourself a certified road-bike. No promises on comfort!
This is just a vague indication though! For a real in-depth price assessment and Q&A please visit your local bike store
For my $00.02...Don't bother trying to convert them. Ride the bike you have the way it was intended to be ridden. If after a while you still feel like its lacking, throw on some bar ends for more hand positions, Still feel like its lacking? Go test-ride some road bikes to see if riding on the drops is right for you. I'm not talking about a test ride around the parking lot either! No less then 3 miles on that sucker, get a real feel for it. Love it!? Sell the Escape and do a TON of research into inexpensive road bikes. They are out there waiting for ya.
I've had the bike for a few weeks now and use it almost entirely for commuting. Here's what I've added since I got the bike:
The stock brakes weren't doing enough to stop me so I swapped them out for some Tektro CR720s. I dropped the yoke as far as I could to give myself as much leverage as possible. Braking is much better now and more reliable than the original set ever was.
I added a rack and trunk bag that's big enough to hold my food and clothes for the day. The only modification I had to make here was filing away some metal from rack mounting leg. It was colliding with frame near the dropout and not allowing the leg to sit close enough to the braze on.
Some of the original cable housings that came with the bike had some gouges in them so Nashbar sent me a new replacement cable set. I swapped out all the brake/shift cables and replaced the bar tape with some SRAM cork tape. The original cables from Nashbar were also a bit too long and were causing excessive friction.
I added some SKS fenders per the recommendations of users on this sub. They were a little finicky to install but I got them on in the end. This particular frame doesn't have bolt holes in either of the two rear bridges so I had to resort to the classic zip tie approach.
As far as the bike goes, it's been performing flawlessly so far. It weighs close to 30 lbs now so it's not the lightest thing in the world. However, the steel frame and the large tires really help smooth out the road quite a bit. The saddle is still the most uncomfortable part of the bike, but I'm hoping to swap it out sometime in the near future. Shifting is still very smooth and the 4 trim positions on the 105 front derailleur is a great feature.
If you're considering getting a bike from Nashbar, I'd definitely recommend them. Their customer service was fantastic and everything they shipped usually got to me door in 2-3 days (even the bike!).
This (brakes) plus this (shifts) comes out under $20.
I find it hard to imagine them any cheaper. A complete set of the black-coated inners costs pretty close to that at most LBSs.
Buy tools as needed, no need to stock up with everything right away. Most park tools I buy on Amazon and get them within two days. Tools I would get right away though would be
As for cabling
Universal Brake Cables on Amazon, just make sure you cut of the correct end.
Here is a shift cable set.
As for cutting the cables and housing, do NOT use standard wire cutters. You need a parrot style nosed set of cutters, like this Pedros set. I bought a cheap set of cutters on eBay that work great. When I cut housing I use a little sand paper to flush up the ends.
The 4th hand is not really needed, I get by fine without it.
Is the shifting indexed (single click for each gear) or friction? If it is friction, get whichever suntour or shimano derailleur is cheapest online. It should be one without the hook also called a derailleur claw. A used one would be less than $20 online, or you could get something new like http://www.amazon.com/gp/product//B000F5EGAA/ref=twister_dp_update?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Tourney-8-Speed-Mountain-Derailleur/dp/B00O7XMG1C
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Like that one?
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There are a couple of others that want me to chose between 'direct attachment' and 'with riveted adapter' like this one:
​
​
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-RD-A070-Road-Rear-Derailleur/dp/B007Q4PBNO/ref=asc_df_B007Q4PBNO
​
Thanks.
​
Watching youtube videos about how to replace and adjust a derailleur right now...
​
(edit: also https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-RD-TY300-Derailleur-Compatible-Upgraded/dp/B01GO02W5K/ )
don't a friggin get an X9 for that bike... its like putting a corvette engine a tercel. doesn't make sense and won't even work. your bike had a tourney rear derailleur which is the most entry level shimano has. upgrade a bit to this acera for $20 and call it a day. It'll shift better than what you're used to and won't break the bank. it will work with your existing stuff as well. simple as removing the busted one and installing this. watch some videos and you can get it done easily.
So, you're kinda going down a rabbit hole here.
First: Most 7-speed freehubs use Uniglide cassettes, with a threaded small cog instead of a threaded lockring. The only 126mm OLD hub I can think of off the top of my head that fit a modern Hyperglide cassette is the FH-1055 rear hub from the 105SC group. If you're OK with freewheels or vintage Uniglide cassettes, your options will open up considerably.
You're also going to need a new derailleur... The cable pull ratio of your SunTour Accushift does not match the cable pull of those Microshift brifters. Any 6-9 speed Shimano derailleur, pre-9-speed Dura Ace exluded will work with those, so you should be able to find a suitably vintage looking derailleur to match your bike.
Finally... if you're trying to build a bike to "crush the MAMILs... as a rebuke to their carbon/lycra obession", why aren't you going full L'Eroica with your bike? I'm really curious about the decision making process behind which parts you want to keep vintage and which ones you're willing to modernize. (and an aside: I'm plenty fuckin' fast without a carbon fork and shifting by feel instead of through clicks.)
> they wouldn't work as fixed.
oh yeah?
http://sheldonbrown.com/asc.html
http://www.amazon.com/Sturmey-Archer-S3x-Fixed-Gear/dp/B0042R50QQ
It's a great bike for the price. For what it's worth, I've done plenty of loaded touring in mountains with similar gear ratios (compact crank with 11-28t cassette). Others will say your lowest gear ratio (1.2) isn't low enough for mountainous touring. Depends on your strength and how much you're carrying.
To get it lower, you can buy an 11-34t cassette which will bring you down to a 1.0 ratio.
However, I'm not sure the derailleur it comes with will fit an 11-34t cassette. If it doesn't, you'll need a mountain bike rear derailleur like this.
In short, you're looking at $30 or $70 to upgrade to a traditional low touring gear ratio, not including labor.
You can get a friction shifter, which is non-indexed. That way you can use whatever number of gears you want without having to worry about it again.
Shifting is more clunky with a friction shifter, but once you get used to it it's fine. As a bonus it's easier to sweep gears faster.. so if you are in a high gear and need to come to a quick stop, you can shift all the way to the lowest/tallest gear really quick.
I use this style:
https://www.amazon.com/Sunrace-SLM10-Friction-Shifter-Set/dp/B007QMJH86/
They use a cheap and ugly clamp, but you can take it on and off without removing your other stuff. Also works with whatever style of handle bars you have.
Check out the Microsoft brifters, they've gotten some pretty good reviews and can be had new for 55 usd. They are compatible with any 3x7 as far as I know. I've been eyeing them to replace the stem shifters on my hunk of junk.
https://www.amazon.com/microSHIFT-Shifters-SB-R473-Derailleur-Bicycle/dp/B011IL1EP4
Edit: again with the autocorrect
> I figured adding a Drop Handle Bar will help me but don't wanted to spend more $
Depends on whether you think buying bars, cable+housing, possibly a stem, and these shifters:
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-ST-A070-Shifters-7-Speed-Black/dp/B007Q4MM1I
is low cost enough.
I recently just did exactly what you want to do. I'll link the parts I used and bought off of amazon. Bar end shifters, drop bars and drop bar brake levers for V brakes. I bought cable and housing for brakes and bar tape from LBS but you could just get that from amazon as well. The shifters come with cable and a few pieces of housing.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F5EFOC/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001IORJVU/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001C4UHF6/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01
Let me know if you have any questions. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.
Edit: just noticed you said you needed 9 gears in the rear so the shifters I linked wont work but you should be able to find some that would on amazon. My Sirrus only has 8 gears in the rear.
THE WRENCHER: buy some cheap friction shifters. Use the brakes levers in the kit. Be happy.
Look to see of the der pully holder is parallel with the plane of the wheel. If it looks good, it might still have shifting issues, but is safe to ride (barring problems with limit screws, etc).
To really be sure (like when chasing down small shifting anoynances that only happen at one end of the range), its best to use the same alignment tool used to fix the problem. It screws into the der hanger and has a movable probe that you set touching the rim; then you simply rotate the guide and check to see if the probe just touches the rim in all spots. If not, you use the arm of the tool to lever the der hanger around until it does. Mind you, if you wheel is (badly) out of true, there's no point to this.
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Derailleur-Hanger-Alignment/dp/B0028YWHPW
3x7? Tourney or RSX
Just ride it til it breaks, then if you like it and maybe have gotten in better shape a little you can buy a nicer bike. In the end you will need something like a trail or all-mountain bike.
If this is your bike
http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=2001&Brand=Raleigh&Model=M40&Type=bike
or close, and its the right shifter thats busted you could probably try this
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Acera-SL-M310-Shifter-7-Speed/dp/B003ZM9RX6
Your local bike shop could probably help you too. I am not talking about some big chain shop, I'm referring to a good mom and pop or small local chain.
Good Luck
For example, any reason why this wouldn’t work?
microSHIFT Shifters 3X7 Speed SB-R473 Trip Shift Lever Brake Derailleur Road Bike Bicycle Derailleur https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011IL1EP4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QXUVAbP1JQVHF
Will I be happier with the shimano acera?
Its made of steel like my old one and I like the idea of nice shifting on my refurbed bike. Then again I also like money and your recommendation for the matching tourney cheapo model. Let me know what you think.
Any 7-speed shifter will do the job. Just make sure it matches the brand of your rear derailleur. Here is a Shimano offering that should do the trick:
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Acera-SL-M310-Shifter-7-Speed/dp/B003ZM9RX6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333478205&sr=8-1
LHT Frame - $520 after tax
Chukker Wheels - $85 x 2
Tires Schwalbe Marathon Plus RLX 700 x 45 C Bicycle Tire - $54 x 2
Alloy Headset Spacers - $7.89 x 2
Shift Levers - $60
Chain - $10
Brake Cables - $10
Brakes - $15 x 2
Extra Long Shift Cables - $6
Derailleur - $24
Cassette - $17
Crankset - $40
Spindle - $24
Headset - $45
Seatpost - $20
Brooks Saddle - $145
Rack - $35
Brooks Panniers - $150 x 2
Brooks Bar Tape - $65
Tools
Saw Guide - $41.36
Starnut Setter - $22
Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!
Here are your smile-ified links:
inexpensive brifters
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Never forget to smile again | ^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot
Do you really have the derailleur hanger? You should post the pic of broken one so that we can make sure.
If you do have the derailleur hanger, I think you can use something like this. Shimano Tourney.
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Tourney-TX55-Speed-Derailleur/dp/B003ZM9RDQ/ref=pd_sim_468_10?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003ZM9RDQ&pd_rd_r=X7ESM3A6V3YXM80YCV7T&pd_rd_w=k6Gma&pd_rd_wg=hsYVC&psc=1&refRID=X7ESM3A6V3YXM80YCV7T
Are you talking about stem shifters?
You can buy just the cable pretty cheap
First off love your bike dude
Second off i love this $8 shifter set from amazon. Not bar end though, but work great on all shifters https://www.amazon.com/Sunrace-SLM10-Friction-Shifter-Set/dp/B007QMJH86/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1501644368&sr=1-1&keywords=friction+shifters comes with cables n housings too
not really bar end but maybe you could mount them on the bar end?
Either way love the bike just htought i'd mention it because you said you are $ conerned
inexpensive brifters
(And that's brand-new; OP could probably find some used 3x7 brifters on Craigslist for $20 or so if he was patient enough.)
I did not expect that your lever literally broke off. In my experience, most people who complain of broken shifters have either a bent derailleur hanger or really weirdly routed cables.
Those are simple thumb shifters that you have, and any community bicycle cooperative will have used ones for a dollar or two in a bin.
https://www.bikecollectives.org/wiki/index.php?title=Community_Bicycle_Organizations
But they'll probably break the same way.
If you're out to spend minimal money and get something new and serviceable, here are a set of SunRace aluminum shifters. They're friction shifters, so they don't click into gear. Judging by the dials on your shifters not numbering the gears, I'd assume your current shifters do a micro-clicky motion when you change gears; the SunRace ones would be a more fluid motion.
https://www.amazon.com/Sunrace-SLM10-Friction-Shifter-Set/dp/B007QMJH86
http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Derailleur-Hanger-Alignment/dp/B0028YWHPW/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&srs=2529177011&ie=UTF8&qid=1377571554&sr=8-1-catcorr&keywords=park+derailleur+hanger+tool
I got some downtube shifters from amazon pretty cheap, and they've been working great for me so far.
They look cheap, because they are cheap, but I liked them more than my stem shifters. I didn't want to disassemble my stem shifters to put on this bracket, but you probably could if you wanted.
http://www.amazon.com/Sunrace-SLR03-Friction-Stem-Shifter/dp/B0084UHAJM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449807462&sr=8-2&keywords=Downtube+shifters
EDIT: they even came with cables
Upgrading it will be quite expensive. However, it'll provide you with a wealth of knowledge, frustration and, at the same time, fun.
Depending on your existing hub, you may or may not need a new hub to put your new cassette on.
With a wide enough range of gears on your rear cassette you can get away with a single chainring, so there will be no need for a new crankset/front derailleur/front shift lever.
As /u/fclbr said, you can choose downtube shifters in order to keep your existing brake levers. There are also bar-end shifters, and if you go for a single chainring, it won't be that expensive.
All-in-all, consider if this bike's right for you, size and geometry-wise, as your decision may be a bit rash. If it is, then I'd say go for it.
Rear derailleur - $20
Cassette - $20 - I recommend going for the 34t max sprocket. It'll allow you to stick with a single chainring
Bar-end shifters - $55 - they are 9-sp indexed, but they also work in friction mode, which allows you to freely adjust your gear
Downtube shifters - $14
Cables/outer cables are negligible costs.
If it's using bar-end shifters and doesn't have bosses for downtube shifters, your best bet is going to be to use some friction thumb shifters. Unless it already has indexed shifting, the chances of an indexed shifter working on the existing derailleurs is pretty low.
Shimano SL-BS64 Ultegra Bar End Shifter Set (8-Speed)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F5EFOC/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_us?ie=UTF8
I just got a new bike myself. Layered security seems best on top of your insurance. Good locks and layers make your bike a hassle to steal.
I have a covered car port and I lock the bike to the steel support beam. I take the disk lock alarm with me where ever I go under the seat and leave the chain locked to the pole when not in use.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HUKQHEG
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GE9H8W
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UMCCZO
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0022ZN6M0
I scored this Rockhopper for $50! Now I’m looking to modernize pretty much the whole thing. Please critique my build list below. Would you get anything different, or better, or maybe anything else that would be better value? Did I miss anything? Do you think all of this will work together? It will be my adventure bike for bike packing, gravel, off road touring.
FOMTOR 25.4 stem 60mm 35 Degree Bike Handlebar Stem Riserhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G71CZG6
UPANBIKE Road Mountain Bike Bicycle Stem Riser Adapter 1 1/8" φ22.2mm https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LLR8PR
Action 1-1/8" W/Adjuster Black Cable Hanger Fronthttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XCSKWCQ
KMC X9L 9 Speed Chain Gold Coatedhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HPV7M
Wheel Set 26 x 1.5, Mavic x M117, Deore M530 9Sp Hub, Blk SS Spokes, 32Hhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0033H53VI
Shimano Deore 9-Speed Mountain Bicycle Rear Derailleur - RD-M591https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OWPRLI
Maxxis DTH 26 X 2.15 60A Kevlar Blackhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XIT4YS
XCSOURCE MTB Mountain Bike Crankset Aluminum Bicycle Crank Sprocket and Bottom Bracket Kit 170mm CS400https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWXUV7I
RaceFace 104mm Single Chain Ringhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3FG6ZW
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Edit: Adding Shifters and Cassette
SHIMANO Deore SL-M590 9-Speed Shift Lever
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKVJF8Y/
JGbike Sunrace 8 9 10 Speed MTB Cassette 11-40T 1 Wide Ratio Including 22mm Extender - for SRAM Shimano-Type splined freehub Body
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRLWHEO
> Disk locks are pretty effective the downside is youll inevitably forget its on and try and go with it on probably dropping your bike.
https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Bicycle-Security-Reminder-Cable/dp/B0022ZN6M0/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=reminder+cable&qid=1562610368&s=gateway&sr=8-3
every time
Ten bucks, if you've got Prime (and why wouldn't you?).
Make sure you get a 9 speed or lower MTB derailleur. Unlike road derailleurs, Shimano has a different pull ratio on their 10 speed MTB derailleurs. If you buy a 10 speed derailleur, it won't be compatible with your shifters.
Something like this Deore M591 should drop right on
This Alivio model should also work, and is a bit cheaper
Either one of those should allow up to a 34 tooth cassette on the small chainring. Just make sure you don't shift to it on the large chainring unless your chain is sized correctly.
Hmmm, not a lot to say and nothing fancy. I bought the bike in Summer of 2011 after my earlier bike was stolen from the family garage. It originally had the Fuji factory bar with a slight rise and separate Shimano brakes, rapid fire shifters and the 'meh' hand grips.
Summer 2012, everything on the original handlebar including the bar itself was stolen overnight while the bike was rack locked and I was upstairs in a beach condo. F**king theives!
I replaced handlebar with a Ritchey https://ritcheylogic.com/comp-sc-rizer-mountain-bar
and outfitted it with Shimano combo brake/shifters https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-ST-EF51-Brake-Shifter-Levers/dp/B00MUCN0MG
I got the standard Ergon GP1 grips and separate climbing bars wrapped in bar tape. It's not the best of setups, I should have gotten the GP5 model https://www.rei.com/product/884447/ergon-gp5-handlebar-grips . The bar is too wide even for a big guy like me (6'1" and 250 lbs.) So, I cut off about 3/4 of an inch from the bar ends to narrow my arm position. The Topeak bag on top is great for often used items (wallet, phone, gel packs, keys, etc.) https://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Compact-Handle-Bar-Bag/dp/B001T2U1FM/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495644165&sr=1-2&keywords=topeak+handlebar+bag
That's probably WAY more then you wanted to know. But it is a REALLY comfortable ride and has served me well. For a second trip, I replaced the seat tube with an Uno compressor seat post and the saddle with a Selle SMP TRK. So Butt fatigue is completely gone. ;)
There are a few details that matter for your derailleur.
If neither of the above apply to you, then you can buy just about anything else out there.
If you don't have indexed shifting, or if you do, and you have less than 8 gears in the back, then you can get away with really cheap cables. WalMart and Amazon sell a Bell-branded kit with everything you need for $6.
Take note of the cable routing as you take the old parts off, and use the old housing sections as a guide to cut the new ones (even if you need to make some changes). Also, read this first. You don't really need special tools, but you will need to do some clean-up work on the cut housing ends with a file.
Derailleur hangers are meant to bend before your derailleur because they are much cheaper than a new derailleur. So yes, if it's been bent in a crash you can try and bend it back to straight.
If your derailleur hanger is made of steel it can generally be bent back to straight with a DAG tool fairly easily. If it's aluminum, you can bend it back a few degrees, but generally they snap. Aluminum is much more brittle and will strain harden much quicker than steel, so once it's bent, it's usually done.
If you break a hanger, just buy a new one from your LBS. They range from $5 to $50+ depending on your bike. Most are pretty cheap and are very simple to install.
Thanks, WildMan. I've found the same M310 Altus you've linked to, but it has DL at the end?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B005CMUQU0/
Would this be my best option? I'll order those then.
that link also indicates this derailleur is a copy of an older version of the Shimano Tourney derailleur. the modern replacement Tourney doesn't look exactly the same but it will do the same job for cheap. make sure to match the style of derailleur hanger to the broken one, notice in the first link the topmost part of the der. has a little slot for the axle to slide into, whereas the second link has a simple bolt. this is what you are matching.
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Tourney-TX35-Derailleur-Speed/dp/B003ZMH69S/ref=pd_sim_sg_1
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Tourney-TX75-Speed-Derailleur/dp/B003ZM9REA
I'm guessing the $40 saddle is a take off from another bike that someone swapped out.
$26 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MUCN0MG
The hanger is a good price.
Put the saved money into a better than stock saddle and do it yourself. You'll learn something new and you're bike will be better in the end.
Edit: I don't think the end price from the shop is unreasonable.
You definitely need something there in order to get the shifters going. You can either use the drop down shifters, which I have found for decent prices on ebay, but also some at exorbitant prices. Like I have bought some 105 7-speed and dura ace 6-speed each for less than $10 but some people slap 'classic' or 'rare' on it and charge $50-100. You can also get some of these without buying the shift lever bosses, but it has to be the right diameter for the down tube, and I'm thinking the r300 tube is too narrow for that bike. But, measure so that you know for sure.
Also, what type of rear derailleur is on there? This will determine the type of shifters you get. The ones linked are 8-speed shifters, but I use with a 7-speed rear derailleur by locking out the last cog. It looks like you have an RSX on there that is 7-speed, but if you can find the model number, you can confirm this for sure.
Also, you can get these that screw on to the shift lever bosses so that you can run brifters like these. I did this on an old bike that had shift bosses for drop-downs, and it worked out nicely and was relatively simple, and the linked brifters came with cables. Or, you could always change the bar to a flat one and get something more economical from the mountain line, and the flat bar may be an easier ride if your dad is older.
Hope it helps!
Sorry about the late reply, but here you go:
Shimano Acera 6/7 speed rear derailleur:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F5EGAA
It has plastic roller gears for the chain! I have not ridden it much, but something tells me when a stick lands in, it won't shred it up like my xtr. You might want to spend more for a better one.
I'm not sure what the cage length is but if you get another, you'd probably be best off with a medium cage, but you might need a long cage. Check this for more info: http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=205890
Here is the cassette: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BY7ZP2
I got the 13-30, but I think i'd recommend the 13-34 for the lower gearing.
link to what was looking at https://www.amazon.ca/Shimano-Tourney-7-Speed-Triple-Lever/dp/B00GQCC9A0/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=shimano+7+speed+sti&qid=1556179209&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull
When I bought my Ultegra Bar Ends from Amazon, they came with the cable stops.
Here's what I started with.
This is how it ended up.
Obligatory full bike shot. Sorry, didn't think to put the chain on the big ring.
I want to get a 3 speed fixed hub for my commuter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0042R50QQ?pc_redir=1395216240&robot_redir=1
I'm interested in replacing the brake levers and gear shifters on my road bike with a brake/shifter combo. I've linked one I've been looking at on Amazon below. What I'm curious about, is how do I know if it will be compatible with my bike? It's a 21-speed, but I'm not sure what qualities I should be looking for to find a pair that will work. The bikesdirect link is to my bike.
Any suggestions about a good shifter to get and what to look out for would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011IL1EP4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1519154351&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=microshift&dpPl=1&dpID=417kpRtm-wL&ref=plSrch
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/wellington2-xv.htm
Yeah, I've decided to go that route. It's significantly cheaper and way less effort to just get friction shifters and new brake levers (since the current shifters are a combo). I just wish I could find a set of friction shifters I like :-/ Amazon is lacking in their selection. I want something that's of decent quality no more than $20-30 and grey/black. I've got these in my cart, and they look like they may be kindof cheap (though they have good reviews) and I don't have red anywhere else on my bike so it kindof bugs me that they're that color. I'd like to find shifters that match my new brake levers.
Thread rejack! I noticed that the bike in those pictures has the same style lower mounted front derailleur with a brace (not a clamp) as the one I thought was broken on my bike. Cool.
Also, in my novice opinion, that bike looks great. If it's comfortable, I wouldn't hesitate to grab it at $400. A new entry level bike like a Trek 820 will run you about $360 + tax. I think for a few bucks more, this would be a superior bike.
Take for example the rear derailleur. The 2007 comes with a Shimano Deore (confirmed in the pics). Here it is on amazon for $50. A new 2012 Trek 820 comes with a Shimano TX35. This goes for $12 on amazon.
Again, take this with a grain of salt as I just bought my first bike. This is just from some of the knowledge that I've gained in the past few days. Good luck.
*grammar edits
>https://www.amazon.com/microSHIFT-Shifters-SB-R473-Derailleur-Bicycle/dp/B011IL1EP4
These say 3x7 though...
This is tempting then. If all I need to do is drop this in and tension it, I'm probably going to do that vs anything else. Seems like it'll be quite a worthwhile upgrade especially if I can use my existing shifter, chain and cassette !
It's a cable to remind you not to ride off with the !@#$ disc lock still on.
http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-340102-Disc-Lock-Reminder/dp/B0022ZN6M0
I made a mistake and typed 8 instead of 7; Sorry about that.
I found this, but it only goes to 7 gears.
If you don't already have one, you might consider a disc lock with an alarm. (And if you have a disc lock, don't forget the Disc Lock Reminder. Last thing you want to do is forget you have a disc lock on.)
If you already know all this, please disregard but otherwise:
Parking in Chicago has some advantages for being on a motorcycle. One is, all those Permit parking zones with the "you must have permit ### to park here"... Yea, we can ignore those and park there.
We're supposed to park 90 degrees to the curb.
Sometimes there is enough space between no parking zones, and metered parking zones that a motorcycle can fit an avoid paying for parking and not getting a ticket. Sometimes they get the ticket anyways and have to submit a picture to prove they weren't violating those areas. I've never done this, but seen plenty of examples here in Reddit.
That's a long cage, which you probably won't need looking at your bike.
See this link for more information on cage length.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Q4PBNO/ might be better. Read the above link though and work out what cage length you need.
ok last thing http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Q4PBNO/ or http://www.amazon.com//dp/B007Q4PGPM/
whats the dif with Smart Direct Mount or Smart Mount with Bracket
These shifters(www.amazon.com/Sunrace-SLM10-Friction-Shifter-Set/dp/B007QMJH86/) will work fine assuming that there's nothing wrong with the derailleurs. As the previous reply stated, it could also just be friction between the cables and housing.
Any shop can build up a 3 speed fixed wheel for you.
http://www.amazon.com/Sturmey-Archer-S3x-Fixed-Gear/dp/B0042R50QQ
It would help us understand your options if you could point out what your dropout looks like from this image.
http://sheldonbrown.com/images/dropf-short.gif
No, you should not.
There is a special tool for this that my bike shop used on my der hanger.
I understand your desire to make the repairs yourself, but the hanger needs to be aligned with a millimeter or so, which you can't achieve with a hammer.
It's a task that will only need to be performed once, so it doesn't make sense to purchase the tool for it, when any bike shop would gladly do it for nearly free.
However, this is the tool they'll use: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028YWHPW
or better yet, get the Shimano Tourney A070
Okay, so with $200, assuming I was doing the work:
Wrap handlebars - $11.53 (sweet dark red, cause the red on there looks awesome already)
Cheap 700c wheels from co-op - $20? (Talk with them about the gearing to see if the range is the same, or if you want tighter range or whatever, they probably have a few sets there with somewhat different gear ranges on the rear)
Saddle from co-op - $5-10
Tubes/tires - $45 (tires, tubes)
Derailleur cables - $7 (Shimano, here)
Brake cables - $10.39 (Shimano, here)
Brake levers - $22.53 (Tektro RL340)
Brakes - $62 - (Tektro 539 rear, front)
5-speed chain - 7.98 (here)
Then I'd try to get pedals and a cheap but aluminum quill stem, handlebars, and seatpost from the co-op. Depending on where you are, you may be able to get all for $20 or less. Functional new parts suggestions: (not guaranteed to fit. These have all sorts of different diameters over the years/models, so you need to know what you have/need. Handlebars, Seatpost, stem.)
You may want to look at getting these to replace your shifters. I know that I had issues with the A050 shifters in that my knees were hitting them, and changing gears on me, whenever I would stand to climb.
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-ST-A070-Shifters-7-Speed-Black/dp/B007Q4MM1I
They still make them.
https://www.amazon.com/Top-bike-Tourney-Derailleur-RD-TY300-Direct/dp/B01D2WQ0TM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=tourney+7+speed+derailleur&qid=1572404682&sprefix=tourney+7+speed&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A19ZVD46PHVPF7&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExRzRJSFFYOVc2MzZDJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTA4NDI0Mzk3Nlk2NVZJMFRFUyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDkzNzAwMkYzMUtJMk5OUTVONyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
I was a student too, but I forked out a bit of money for shifters like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Shimano-SL-BS64-Ultegra-Shifter-8-Speed/dp/B000F5EFOC/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540826780&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=bar+end+shifters+7%2F8+speed
I found some non-indexed shifters for less than $80 on sale and you might be able to as well. They are a LOT nicer than downtube shifters IMO, and they are compatible with any cassette or freewheel (up to a point).