Yup, see: Kryptonite Fahgettaboudit lock, the thing costs $100 and the opening is like 6" x 3.5".

But if you live in NYC, no matter what kind of lock you use, if you leave a nice bike locked up outside overnight, there's a 50% chance it won't be there the next day.

An 'airzound' the button / horn mounts on your handlebars and you can pump it back up with a bike pump

Bite my shiny metal ass.

Dont forget a lock. I use this one $80 this one is more affordable $35

drunkriding requires lighting. People seem to like cygolite.

[Nice singlespeed tool $20 ] (https://www.amazon.com/Pedros-142724-Trixie-Fixie-Tool/dp/B001Q221GM)

That bike has rack mounts. Racks mean you can bring more than one case of beer home at a time.

I dont carry much else on the singlespeed. A small $2 patch kit, tire levers and an inflator.

Edit: The Modified Sheldon, credit: 802bikeguy

May I recommend getting an airhorn? http://amzn.com/B000ACAMJC

As a motorcyclist that has been hit twice by motorists not paying attention, I feel like I've got some hard earned wisdom on this topic. You really have to let the pride of right-of-way go, get out of their way and let them know of your presence. Right-of-way doesn't matter anymore when you're in the hospital.

http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Road-Morph-Bike-Gauge/dp/B000FI6YOS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1380651864&sr=8-1&keywords=bicycle+touring+pump

About a foot long, transforms into a floor pump. Easy to fill 100psi and beyond. Has saved my bad-lucky-flatted ass many times. Best there is.

https://amzn.com/B000ACAMJC

I don't care what earbuds/earphones you're wearing, when this goes off ten feet behind you while rollerblading you'll jump right the ($&*#% out of your skin...

hate flats, learn how to switch out tubes, saved me a lot of hopelessness and the gear required is pretty light to carry around.

lever

tubes

ratchet wrench 15mm

portable air pump

back up and running in 15-20 min.

• Get a helmet, lights, and either wear bright clothing when cycling or get a high viz jacket.
  
  
• Obey the rules of the road and don't fulfill the cyclist stereotype that we're "pedestrians or drivers depending on which suits us". Stick to cycle paths and roads, signal with an outstretched arm, stop at stop signs and red lights, looking before overtaking, don't lose focus, etc. If you must use the footpath, dismount and use your feet.
  
  
• Buy a u-lock or equivalent. Try to avoid using cable locks where at all possible. Learn how and where to lock your bike.
  
  
• Learn basic bike maintenance such as how to change and repair a punctured tube and how to maintain your chain and gears.
  
  
• Don't get overly psyched about long distance commutes. So many people think you have to be an Olympic athlete and find out it's actually very doable once you try it.
  
  
• Have fun, best of luck, and don't hesitate to ask more questions or for clarification. :-)
  
  Edited to add a point.

I went this route from day 1 of my commuter purchase. I love them: http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-A530-Dual-Platform-Pedal/dp/B001MZ2AGO

I reduced the tension nearly all the way, and it's super easy to clip in and out. You will fall. Know that right now. You'll forget and you will fall.

The nice thing is having the platform pedal on one side so you can wear street shoes when you so desire.

Bike tire lever for separating the rim and tire.

http://www.amazon.com/Pedros-Bicycle-Tire-Lever-Pair/dp/B000IZGFCE

I've been using a Topeak "Road Morph" and it absolutely rules. It's got a little flip out foot thing, pressure gauge and can handle high pressures.

I even convinced Topeak to mail me some replacement parts so I can rebuild the thing on the road if I need.

I use SPD clipless pedals, along with these shoes. I prefer MTB clipless shoes because they have a recessed cleat and are much easier to walk in than road-oriented kicks.

The difference you notice when using a clipless system is astounding, and I would never go back to platforms/cages. So much more efficient and natural feeling.

First thought: seems a lot like the Topeak Explorer series of bike racks. The QuickLock system works great; I have a bag that uses it. Hopefully this succeeds, so Topeak releases more QuickLock-compatible stuff and also brings costs down.

Perhaps a loud noise maker (air horn) would have sufficed as a next step. Pepper-spray is more of a last-resort deterrent, something that should only be used when one is in peril (but only you can be the judge of that).

A loud, sudden noise will both startle the harasser and attract attention from others to your plight.

On my bike, the angle from my handlebars to 2 feet in front of the tire is different from my eyeballs to 2 feet in front of the tire.

Seriously, think about it this way; do you just barely peek over the top of your handlebars when you ride? Unless your seat is all the way down, and you have "ape hanger" handlebars...

Shameless recommendation for excellent bicycle air horn. Loud enough for cars to hear. If you bike commute, give it a look.

Posting pictures of the bike would be helpful. If you decide to do this, make sure to post a few high quality shots of your drivetrain which could show us if there's any critical wear.

However, before you post the pictures, it would be helpful to clean the bike. Get a bucket of soapy water, find a sponge or rag that you don't mind sacrificing and get to cleaning your mountain bike. Dry it off, and then post the pictures (that will make any critical deficiencies more obvious).

As others have mentioned, you'll most likely need to remove the chain. Here's a video from one of the best cycling channels on Youtube, Global Cycling Network (GCN), that shows you exactly how to do that. GCN and its sister channel, Global Mountain Bike Network (GMBN) offer a number of fantastic maintenance videos in addition to a variety of other content. If you're wondering where to get a chain tool, I would just spend a bit of extra money and get a good multi tool like the Crank Brothers multi tool which already comes with one.

Pump up the tires to see if they still hold air. If they do, fantastic. Nothing more needs to be done. If not, you'll need to get new tubes (most likely your mountain bike will need 26 in X 1.9-2.125 in tubes). Here's how to install a new tube.


As a bike commuter, you'll need a number of things to stay safe and make sure your bike stays in your hands. Here are the essentials:

1. Front and rear lights. I use this flashlight for my front light, and a rear light similar to this.
   
   
2. A helmet. From your posting history, you seem to live in Australia. All helmets sold in that country are required to meet the same safety standards so in all likelihood, spending more on a helmet will not make you safer. Buy one in a store and you're set.
   
   
3. A great bike lock. Read this to learn the proper way to lock your bike.
   
   However, staying safe is only the first part. You'll want or need a number of other items to make sure that your commute isn't frustrating. Here are some of the items off of the top of my head.
   
   
4. Bike pump. If you're going to mostly ride near gas stations which have air pumps that can inflate a tube, you probably don't need to carry around a mini pump on your rides. However, everyone should own a floor pump.
   
   
5. Degreaser. The cheap automotive kind is fine as is WD 40. This is used when you need to clean the drivetrain.
   
   
6. Bike lube. Stick with a bike specific one.
   
   
7. Disposable poncho. When I lived in an area where it often rained, I always had a dollar store disposable poncho in my backpack. It's just super handy if there's an unexpected downpour.
   
   
8. Fenders. I personally don't have them, but I live in a relatively dry climate. If you live in a place where it always rains, they're super helpful.
   
   
9. Bottle cage. A cheap plastic one is fine.
   
   
10. Tire levers.
    
    
11. Rear rack. Assuming you don't have a full suspension mountain bike and instead have a hard tail (here's an article if you're unsure), get a rear rack. Do not get one that is only mounted to the seat post like this Ibera, but rather one that connects to the bike frame. If your bike does not have any bolts that can attach, you can use P clamps to secure the rack. This post describes how to do just that.
    
    
12. Some way to transport groceries. While I use a milk crate that I ziptied onto my rear rack with bungee cords on top of the crate (similar to this setup), many others use panniers to transport groceries and other goods. This has the benefit of more storage, better center of gravity, and can be water proof. However, they are usually much more expensive unless you go the DIY route.
    
    
13. Bike bell. Cars won't be able to hear you, but if you ride in areas with lots of pedestrians or other cyclists, it's useful.
    
    
14. Spare tube. Fortunately 26 in tubes are cheap and super easy to find. Any department store with a bike section will carry them.
    
    /r/bikecommuting can be a helpful resource if you have other questions.

I recommend getting a U-Lock along with an extension cable. You want to put the U-Lock somewhere through the rear triangle like this.
This locks the rear wheel and the frame. Then you want to loop the extension cable through the U-Lock and put it through your front tire so it is also secure. Kryptonite, Abus, and On Guard are all good lock brands. Something like this lock would work fine, but there are more expensive options if you want to be more secure. I personally use this lock. All locks are about buying time because an angle grinder can cut through any lock in a few minutes. I suggest parking it to something secure, something public, and well-lit. Also, make sure to register your bike through TAPS because if someone steals your bike or puts a lock on it, they won't be able to help you. Good luck!

Hey there! I ride that leg very frequently - it is R38 / South Dakota Ave. Yes, it is dedicated shoulder riding, but the shoulder is widened more than a usual highway's would be. I would recommend it over gravel for one major reason: drivers expect bikers to be there. During a good summer day you'll encounter 5-10 bikers in the 10-mile stretch; all regular drivers in the area will be aware that bikes are on the shoulder.

Must-have #1: get a good helmet-mounted mirror (I use this one) and continuously assess the situation area you. Be especially vigilant about people passing other cars. IMO having you, a car, and another car all in a line together is a great way to die. If I see a car swing out to pass another car near me, I usually give a very clear "stop" hand signal to indicate I want them to wait until they are clear of me. Some oblige, some don't.

Must have #2: set up a safety rule and follow it. Mine is that I watch for an approaching car and if at any point their tire touches the solid white line into the shoulder, I hard brake and remove myself from the road. Thankfully, that's only happened once, and in that particular case the driver did start moving towards the center line as he approached, though I had already begun stopping.

Must have #3: get a very bright flashing rear light and use it during the day while on the highway. I have to admit to you that mine isn't bright enough, but reading this made me realize I need to get one purchased before the season starts back up, so I think I'm going to give this guy a try.

If you do the things above I think you'll find the ride up very enjoyable. Good luck and stay safe!

I have a Ulock and looped flex-cable. Chains are heavy, and easier to break.

For ulocks, you want to get the smallest one possible that will still let you lock to a pole. That extra space is what lets thiefs get a jack in there to pop it.

My ususal three links I give out to people on theft prevention:

Chicago Bike Blog article

CDOT

Chicago Ambasador's PDF

Also, remember to keep you bike locked someplace safe overnight like in your apartment, or in your buildings storage unit, especially until you have a good feel about how safe your area is at night for your bike.

Just lock it properly. Sturdy u-lock and a cable. The goal is to make it not worth a thief's time. So a more expensive bike requires more sophisticated deterrents.

Priorities when locking:

1. U-lock through frame, one wheel, and rack; cable through other wheel
   
2. U-lock through frame and rack; cable through wheels
   
3. Worst case scenario: cable through frame and wheels; u-lock to rack
   
   ---
   
   An example of the lock/cable setup can be found here: amazon
   
   Personally, I use a slim u-lock like this because it's lighter, but it has the draw back of being more difficult to find the right fit for some racks.
   
   If you would like to know more on the topic this video is a great resource.

I usually find the Google maps estimate a bit generous - on a 25-minute estimate I might get 20 minutes, and ride 14-18mph on an upright hybrid. I know some people here on their road bikes ride faster.

Safety-wise, I actually would say your vest is even more important than lights. I personally prefer these straps. I've been using them for over 2 years. They light up like day, and don't overheat you in the summer like a full vest would while allowing you to layer multiple coats in the winter.

A nice 1000+lumen front light is another must - you want to not only be seen but in dark conditions to be able to see hazardous objects on the road, particularly a country road. This is the light I've been using for over 2 years (plus backup batteries to easily swap out), but anything bright will do. I prefer steady beam on my front light rather than having it blink - again for visibility.

For rear lights you (again) want something very bright and visible from far away, but that blinks. This is the one that I use, but again anything bright is good.

Good luck out there!

Just a heads up for any other city riders - this bike horn has saved my ass several times when traffic suddenly starts to come into the bike lane. It's very loud, so don't use it on pedestrians, but it'll definitely get the attention of motorists.

Kryptonite 999492 Black 14mm x 60" (1415) New York Fahgettaboudit Chain and New York Disc Lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001SMUB7G/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_yqquub0B5VABY

But you also need to think about how much weight you are willing to carry...

at the store, just put it in your shopping cart.

if it will be out of your sight for any length of time, the Kryptonite Fahgettaboudit has been recommended here.

if you only need to prevent a regular pick-up-and-walk-off theft, a regular cable bike lock should be enough -- but anyone with a little time or tools can get through those rather quickly.

Topeak JoeBlow Sport II is the most common floor pump I see used in bike shops around here. I've had one in use for about ten years and never had problem. Highly recommended.

If you want an inexpensive alternative, you could try putting some different bar ends on your handlebars to give you some different riding positions.

Here's some that mimic the drop-bar style, and would probably give you a good idea if that style would be right for you.

usb chargable, and I use both myself:

rear light

front light

I consider a bell pretty much 'standard equipment' on my bikes now due to this. For whatever reason the bell seems to be get better results overall verses yelling out.

Perhaps part of it is just instinctual, the bell sound is very specific to bikes so the individual really doesn't have to think about what was just said.

Just don't be the guy using an Air Zound on the multi-use trail...

Might be easier to buy something.

http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=140542965

The Evolution mini U from Krypto just aren't that strong. I've seen people leverage them off, once with a hockey stick and once with a piece of rebar. They're really meant as a delaying action for messengers that aren't leaving their bike unsupervised for 8+ hours.

The one I specified is a big, burly bastard of a lock. Som'bitch weighs like 5 pounds. 18mm diameter hasp, forget leveraging it off, pain in the ass to cut through with a torch or grinder and too big to get bolt cutters on. Hasp is too small to get a scissor jack into. Simply too thick to leverage. Double-roll tumbler lock with negative pinning so you can't bump it. Boron Steel that's doped with cutting-wheel fouling polymers. Independent locking bars on the hasps so you need to make two cuts to get it through.

It can be cut, but you're going to need a acetylene rig or a lot of time with a serious battery powered angle grinder to get through it. If anything, it's just a big, TPB style "Fuck Off" to people looking opportunistically. Nothing is going to save you from a complex attack if you're one of those idiots that locks up your $4,500 carbon frame outside overnight.

If you're locking someplace as visible as the MF Station for extended periods of time with a bike that has a value over $1,500, I recommend both the Chain and ULock versions of this line at the same time, as that necessitates two sets of tools for each job. Run that U through the rear triangle and wheel, the chain through the front wheel and main portion of the frame.

Im going to agree with everyone else. Get a U-lock. I When I first got my Trek 7.3 in 2008 I the bike cost me $600, I got a lock that cost me $95 because I was using it as a commuter and I was in New York. I am of the mind that the cost of your locks should be able 10% of the cost of you bike. This works out well because the locks will last just about forever. The look that I bought 6 years ago is still in use, it was a heavy duty chain lock and I leave it locked in the gargae at my job so I dont have to carry it with me everyday.
I recently bought a new bike and I got the New York fahgettaboudit it lock, it a small ulock that isnt heavy but provides good locking.

I dont know where you live, but your bike looks new enough, especially being chainless, to catch some eyes and not just people who will give you complaints.
http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-997986-Black-Fahgettaboudit-U-Lock/dp/B000OZ9VLU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367721175&sr=8-1&keywords=new+york+fahgettaboudit+mini

Awesome, congrats!

As a bike commuter of almost five years, I'll let you in on a little secret: sometimes my fellow bikers are worse that the drivers.

Case in point, I bought this cool airhorn ([Delta Cycle Airzound Bike Horn](https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Bike-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC "Amazon.com : Delta Cycle Delta Airzound Bike Horn")) to attach to my bike. I remember being a little eager to use it, like a kid wanting to try out a toy. It took me a few weeks before I actually had an opportunity. Sadly, and ironically, I had to blow the horn on a cyclist who darted across a crosswalk when he had a red and I had a green. I actually had to dodge out of his way. What a jerk. I remember laughing/crying about how I got this air horn to defend myself from motor vehicles, yet the first time I used it was for a cyclist :-(

I can't stress enough how useful the Airzound has been for these types of sotuations. People move when you sound like a boat.

http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

I ride a road bike and use the Topeak Road Morph G. It is compatible with presta and schrader valves and has a built-in psi gauge. It's a bit heavy, but I love it!

Dont skimp on vital tools for your trip or it may get cut short.

I've owned two of these pumps in the last 16 years. They are bombproof, inexpensive (for the quality) and have been the go to while on the trail, even with friends who own additional pumps. They also fit both valve types.

Highly recommended:

https://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Road-Morph-Bike-Gauge/dp/B000FI6YOS/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1527808752&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=topeak+bike+pumps&psc=1

Kryptonite or bust.

Local shops have crazzzy prices for locks. If they were a few bucks more than amazon, I'd buy them locally but they are $30+ more expensive.

Currently using this...
http://www.amazon.ca/Kryptonite-Evolution-Bicycle-3-25-Inch-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK9VQ/ref=pd_sim_s_8?ie=UTF8&refRID=1TPAH4E2TXJ8YWF21N3C

I've owned and ridden motorcycles and scooters in Baltimore City for over 15 years now, here's my quickie advice:

GLOVES! Always always always wear good motorcycle gloves no matter how hot it is outside... Imagine sprinting flat out as fast as you can possibly go and throwing yourself to the ground hands first... now picture that at 5-10 times the speed. Goodbye skin, ouch. It shocks me how often people neglect this. Wear good gloves!

With that out of the way, I also recommend getting a snell approved full face helmet as well. Its a lot more expensive and more of an inconvenience than wearing a half or open-face helmet and a lot of people don't bother if they're riding a moped or scooter, but the curb is no softer and cars and trucks are no slower just because you're on a smaller bike. Honestly an inexperienced rider on a smaller, less visible bike, with less power is more likely to get into an accident and should therefore have more protection.

Regarding security for the bike, get one of these and one of these. Borrow a hammer drill from the Tool Library
and mount the anchor in the parking pad behind your building with the bits and hardware that come with it. It can be done relatively quickly and as long as you don't put it somewhere terribly obnoxious its likely no one will even notice its there. Use the lock to chain the bike to the anchor every single time you're not riding it, take it with you wherever you ride, and use it to lock up wherever you go.

An unlocked moped or scooter will be stolen immediately and you'll never see it again. Trust me on that one, I've had 3 bikes stolen over the years and each time it was because I didn't lock it up when I was just making a quick stop somewhere or was just running into the house for a minute...

A good helmet, gloves, lock, and anchor are going to be expensive up front but in the end will be well worth it to keep yourself and your property safe.

As long as the engine size of the bike you get is 49cc or under you can ride it in MD anywhere that isn't a highway with just your normal driver's license and a moped permit sticker on the back.
(you can order the sticker on MVA's website, it'll come in a week).
Any bike 50cc and up is considered a motorcycle in the eyes of the state and requires a motorcycle license (or class M endorsement), insurance, tag, and registration just like a car.

I don't F around

Here in So Cal there are thieves following cyclists and ripping off bikes in broad daylight with power tools. I still keep a watchful eye if I'm grabbing something to eat, going into a store, etc. I also use it to keep the bike locked in the garage as that is a common place for opportunists to look.

Is this your first bike?

You should really check out the beginner advice thread and the $200-600 thread in addition to this one. There's a lot of helpful advice in there including SIZING. KNOWING YOUR SIZE IS SUPER IMPORTANT SO KNOW THAT FIRST.

Also, if you're in this price bracket and you don't already have the essential bike accessories:

• A Front Brake and Lever and Cable if you're not sure what sizes you need make a post in the weekly questions thread. Some of the bikes I suggest have one already, but if they don't GET ONE.
  
  
• A Floor Pump
  
  
• A Metric Hex Set
  
  
• A 15mm wrench if your wheels require it (most do)
  
  
• A Lockring Tool 100% essential if you plan to ride fixed
  
  
• Some Grease
  
  
• Good pedals! Clips and straps, bmx straps, or clipless can all benefit greatly from a little extra cash.
  
  
• A helmet
  
  Note there are other options for all of these that could allow you to save money/space/whatever, but you won't go wrong with what I linked. I'd really suggest having these even if it means you go down a price bracket on the actual bike, they'll all come in handy.
  
  

  New Bikes
  

  
  

• An Upgraded Dolan Precursa at £Whateveryouwanttospend is just so customizable and awesome and the pricing is great and really everyone should get this if they can. I'd highly suggest opting for the front brake, miche pistard clincher wheelset (tubular if you're riding track ONLY), and sugino75 crankset options. You can even get direct drives for only £109 extra ( a $500 crankset whaaaat) so that's cool. If you really want to dive headfirst you can get clipless pedals too, but if you don't know what those are definitely make a post in the weekly questions thread.
  
  
• The Specialized Langster at $650 retail is a super solid street and track bike. They go on sale sometimes for less and for $600 or less it's really a no brainer.
  
  
• The Wabi Classic at $750 has been my go to recommendation for a long time. It's made of super high quality steel has excellent customization options, and is all around awesome. The biggest downside is the super relaxed geo. If you want something that rides more like an average road bike check out the Special or Lightning
  
  
• The PoloandBike Williamsburg at £760 is a great option for European riders. The name brand finishing kit and artchetype rims give it that custom bike feel for a good value complete bike. If you swap out the front tire and maybe upgrade the crank this bike can be truly superb.
  
  
• The All-City Big Block at $950 is easily the best looking bike on this list imo, but that aside it's a super ultra double awesome track bike. Really well rounded and could easily be the last fixed gear you buy. One thing to watch out for is the long top tubes that all city loves so much so take a close look at that geo chart.
  
  

  Used Bikes
  

  
  Another great thing about this price bracket is the used market. I daresay it is easy to find outstanding value bikes used in this price range if you know what you're doing. I helped a friend source this for $1100 and we were being choosey! Again, if you need help post in the questions thread or just PM me because I like helping people with this stuff.
  
  
  
  
  
  

Enjoy the FX! I'm rocking the 7.5 and I am completely in love with cycling. Here's a few words of advice:

Ditch that cable lock. I can walk up to a bike with a cable with a five dollar tool and have it for myself in 10-20 seconds. Get a U-Lock and rope. The correct answer for how many locks or what kind of locks to use is how many you are willing to carry. This will depend on your location as well. U-Locks + ropes typically require an individual to have a hacksaw, grinder, etc. I live in a smaller college town and mostly just have to worry about drunk assholes so that works perfect. In other areas more heavy duty and smaller U-Locks are more necessary. This will probably work fine and is cheap unless you're in Detroit or something.

Fenders. I feel like that should be your next investment unless you bike a lot at night. I bike a ton at night and decided to invest in great lights after almost being hit by both cars and bikes several times. The first time you have somewhere to be and go through a puddle, the fenders pay for themselves. These are what I rock and I go through puddles / lakes which I probably shouldn't. I stay nice and dry while my friends breeze through them and get completely soaked.

Racks and bungies are great for the FX series. Like others mentioned, this is just a fun bike. I use it for recreation, commuting, bar hopping, exercise, you name it! A rack and a bungie net makes it awesome and Ortlieb panniers are an even better addition.

Besides fenders however... the seat and pedals (maybe) are the next things I'd recommend to look at. The pedals look metal in that picture, but if there's plastic, toss them. Well, I guess you can use them. It depends on the rider, but there's a pretty good track record of the FX series stock pedals only lasting roughly 500 miles before they completely break. Obviously this will vary by user. These are my favorite commuter pedals because I can go clipless later or I can commute at the same time without switching out. These are cheaper and better for commuting just because of the pricing.

As for the seat, your ass will never get more comfy than sitting on a brooks.

Enjoy the FX, it's a wonderful machine and I cherish mine. I was biking to work for the first time in a month (been on vacation) and I forgot I had to go to work. I accidentally biked a few extra miles down the bike path before I remembered I was commuting and not going for an enjoyable bike ride. Careful, it becomes an addiction.

And here's a shameless plug for my pride and joy. It still had the old pedals, saddle, fenders and needs an updated snapshot.

Delta Airzound 115db horn

Mount a pump to the frame under the water bottle cage.
I like the Topeak Road Morph

Get a Saddle Bag and fill it with

• 2 spare tubes
  
• Patch Kit
  
• Tire Levers
  
• Small adjustable wrench (if you don't have QR skewers)
  
  Optional but handy
  
  Bike Multi Tool
  
  2 CO2 cartridges
  
  CO2 Tire filler
  
  

zero complaints with this one, and collapses pretty small

https://www.amazon.com/Bikehand-Mechanic-Bicycle-Repair-Stand/dp/B00D9B7OKQ

Not sure what your budget is exactly, but I went with this:

Bikehand Pro Mechanic Bicycle/Bike Repair Rack Stand
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D9B7OKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tDCNAbDC2DC6Z

It’s been solid, I’ve had it for over a year and have worked on all our bikes on the rack. It’s light but doesn’t feel flimsy. In the future I’d love to own something more heavy duty like a park tools one, but for now this is a gem.

Note: I’m not in any way affiliated with Bikehand, just a customer who would def vouch for the repair stand!

http://www.amazon.com/Origin-Bicycle-Drop-Ends-Black/dp/B0013G6PB8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370531491&sr=8-1&keywords=drop+bar+ends

I used these while I was trying to put drops on flats. I eventually just ended up putting actual drop bars on, but these work rather well and are very comfortable.

I agree with all of that.

I would just add that bar ends are an economical option for adding more hand placement options to an MTB, without having to swap handlebars/shifters/brake levers.

Most people would opt for a standard bar ends to give you that on-the-hoods/bullhorn hand position. Add a cheap set of foam grips, and install these angled up so that your wrist is straight when riding.

If you want the feel of riding down in the drops, then there are also drop bar ends available. These will require grip tape, and should be installed flat or angled very slightly up.

To quote one of my recent comments about silencing stabilizers:

---
---

I've spent tons of time researching and modding stabilizers and here's the method I use to make them as silent as possible:

---

Let's Build: KBD75 + Zealios 65g (YouTube)
[stabilizer modding starts at 12:11]

---

What you'll need:

• Genuine Cherry stabilizers
  
  • This is the most important component of a silent build. Don't waste your time with the cheap Chinese replicas.
    
  • Zeal stabilizers are fairly quiet out of the box but not everyone wants to spend that kind of money
    
    
• Finish Line Extreme Fluoro 100% DuPont Teflon Grease
  
  
  • Use this for plastic-on-plastic contact areas (i.e.: stabilizer housing inner walls)
    
    
• Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease
  
  • Use this for metal-on-platic contact areas (i.e.: stabilizer wire tips and long side of bends)
    
  • Some use this for plastic-on-plastic but I hate how it gums and slows everything down; I use this grease mainly to fill up any gaps between the wire and plastic parts of the stabilizer - the primary source of stabilizer rattle.
    
    
• Fabric/cloth bandages
  
  • This serves two purposes:
    
    • Fills the gap between the stabilizer housing and the PCB to minimize wobble and thus, rattle (not a problem with screw-in stabs)
      
    • Cushions the bottoming out of stabilizer inserts. The inserts extend beyond the stabilizer housings when pushed all the way down and strike the surface of the PCB, leading to a loud "clack" and additional vibrations/movement that might cause the metal bits to rattle.
      
      
  • We use fabric instead of the water-resistant stuff (or tape) so that it absorbs and holds the dielectric grease.
    
    ---
    ---
    
    This is what they should sound like:
    
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mMIC1ZQ8Grw

Biking in the rain isn't very fun. It's not too bad, but your tires can slip on some surfaces (usually metal). I had to cross some railroad tracks on my route and the tires could easily slip on the metal surfaces.

Also, in the winter, you'll want to wear gloves, otherwise your hands will get pretty cold from the cold air.

Develop a system to make sure you packed your clothes. I've left a few times for work without packing a shirt.

You may want to invest in a bike horn. I have one like this. It helps to alert cars to your presence, but will probably scare pedestrians, so be careful.

Also, you'll probably want to wear sunglasses, otherwise debris can get into your eyes.

I'd invest in a decent quality road bike. Mine was a $1000 Trek, but that's maybe a slight step above entry level. A good quality bike will cost you over $500. Road bikes are so nice. I was able to consistently go around 20 MPH. with bursts up to 25-30. I actually used to take a lane in rush hour traffic when I lived in my downtown area. I could keep up with the stop and go traffic and it was a great workout.

Wear a helmet!

Get lights, especially for winter when it gets dark earlier.

Visibility is key when riding near traffic, get reflective tape for your bike and reflective ankle bands so cars can see you.

Bike defensively. Worse accident I got in was when I was going by an alley and a car came out of the alley and didn't see me. Luckily I saw them so was able to avoid too much damage.

Either learn to do the maintenance yourself or take your bike into a shop to get maintenance every year or so.

Anyway, good luck! I enjoyed biking into work. I need to get back into it, but it takes good self discipline to wake up early enough to bike into work. I was lucky enough to have a locker room and showers at my workplace, and a bike locker. I really have no excuses other than the fact that driving is so much easier.

These are an effective jogger alert system, even for ones that are using headphones.

http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

I just got one of these for my birthday

http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Bike-Horn/dp/B000ACAMJC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371169926&sr=8-1&keywords=bike+air+horn

I am excited as fuck to use it.

air zound

I agree. The air horns are so loud (maybe louder than a puny car horn?), and a LOT less weight. http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

F getting a silly little bell. You want people to HEAR YOU:

http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn/dp/B000ACAMJC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1302051755&sr=8-1&tag=thelexfiles05-20

Get one of these!

That's an airzound. (Or a knockoff... Does anyone make a knockoff?) I have one but the can is starting to rust out, and I'm genuinely unsure if I'm going to replace it or not. (Don't like the idea of a rusty pressure vessel!)

Here's the thing... when you need one, it's great to have. But the problem I have is that the actual trigger mechanism is so fucking huge that there's nowhere to place it on my bike that's within easy reach. As a result it's wayyy off-line for my thumbs so that I have to deliberately take my hand off my bars, search for the mech, and then push it. The upshot is that I'm only able to do that when I have a few seconds warning that I'm going to need to use it (this video would be a good example); it's definitely not something that you can place to reflexively hit in an emergency.

I guess if you had a cruiser with a coaster brake or a fixie that wouldn't be a problem. But I have a gear shifters and brake levers on both sides; there's absolutely no place to fit this giant butt fucking monstrosity on my bars within easy reach.

Not sure if this would scare them or make them worse, but you could try an airhorn or the airzound - http://amzn.com/B000ACAMJC . Its pretty loud and it may work with the other dogs of the road. ;)

I've got Kryptonite 997986 Black 18mm New York Fahgettaboudit U-Lock http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-997986-Black-Fahgettaboudit-U-Lock/dp/B000OZ9VLU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396797497&sr=8-1&keywords=new+york+lock+kryptonite ( I bought it for $72 )

Tougher steel, thicker, stubby, and locks on both sides of the U. Because it locks on both sides the thief would need to cut the lock twice.
The lock still can be cut with a battery powered angle grinder, but it will take longer.

All u-locks are not equal. Cheaper u-locks can be cut with bolt cutters.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QYUf4h0Lv_8

1. Seems you've got that covered.
   
2. Hmmm ... big subject. Avoid things that are bigger than you. Avoid things that are pointy and smaller than your tire. Keep the rubber side down.
   
3. Lock your bike well if you leave it unattended. This is a nice bike ... I wouldn't lock it up in public much, try and find a "safe" looking bike rack if you must.
   
4. Primarily ... wipe it down and keep it clean. Degrease and re-lube your chain every 100 miles or so ... or immediately if riding in rainy/dirty conditions. Measure your chain wear regularly, and replace your chain early to save your cassette and chainrings. Depending upon your bearing types ... headsets, bottom brackets and wheel hubs occasionally need to be torn down and re-lubed ... every couple seasons or so? Depends a lot on your riding conditions.
   
5. I know nothing.
   
6. I like SPDs. You get at least 90% of the benefit of a "dedicated" road shoe without looking like a deer on ice whenever you get off your bike. I use these. I realized I'll be pilloried by the "Road Shoe Mafia" for this statement.

A few bits of advice:

1. Don't lock it outside overnight. Keep it in your apartment.
   
2. Buy used. I don't know where the hell you can find a bike of any quality for $15, but you can get some for less than $100. Look on Craigslist, beware scammers, and please don't buy a bike from a bike thief.
   
3. Get a decent U-lock. This one is pretty good. Use the included cable to loop around your front wheel. The cable is a bit short, but it's long enough to get the wheel. Unfortunately it is NOT long enough to get both the wheel and seatpost, at least not on my bike. If you're worried about that, get a 7' cable instead. All locks are breakable, of course, but a decent U-lock will thwart casual thieves and encourage the pros to move on to the next bike that's less secured.
   
4. Don't ride drunk. Combined with #1, that means don't ride it anywhere if you plan on drinking.
   
   I've been riding an old mountain bike I got for $70 off Craigslist for a few years. It looks its age but it rides like a champ. Yes, it's silly that my locks cost nearly as much as my bike, but I don't care. I'm a little paranoid.

I'd say plan ahead for your move back to Cambridge now and get a proper bike lock like the Kryptonite Evolution Series. No bike lock is 100% secure, but that one does a good job balancing weight, security, and price. It will deter casual thieves with simple tools (like a hacksaw or crowbar), which is about the best you can hope for and should be totally fine for your grocery trips.

The link I posted goes to a package with a U-lock and cable. This GIF shows you how to use the two of them together to make sure that the frame and both wheels are securely locked up. U lock goes around the seat stays (or rear wheel inside the triangle) and the bike rack, cable wraps the front wheel, downtube, and U lock.

Origin 8 makes drop bar ends, kinda like traditional MTB bar ends.

Have you tried the TwoFish one? I use it with an A6.

>http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-M545-Downhill-Clipless-Pedal/dp/B000XNXUUG

I wouldn't recommend those for riding any distance in normal shoes as the clip mechanism is by necessity proud of the platform.

My brother used to have M545s on his hybrid but got rid of them for that reason he's much happier with the M324 pedals he switched to instead. Getting the wrong side some of the time when you set off is preferable to having no right side. The new [A530 looks even better](http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-A530-Dual-Platform-Pedal/dp/B001MZ2AGO/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1397424911&sr=1-2&keywords=shimano+hybrid+pedals
) with a really nice big platform on the clip free side.

Personally I'd go for Time Allroad Grippers because I like the float atac pedals give you.

hotshots are good, built in battery, and really bright if you want them to be ( adjustable settings )

https://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/dp/B005DVA57Y

Not good for aero seatpost though

Cygolite has really good customer service too, i've contacted them on two separate times about replacement rubber buttons ( lost one in a crash, the other during my ride ) And they mailed me some at no cost.

My headlight from them is kinda poopy, but these taillights are great, mine is going on 2+ years with tons of use and never had any issues and battery still holds fine. Really easy to turn on/off while riding the bike too.

So you're going to buy something regardless, isn't spending an extra $50 once, worth the headache of replacing a bike, trying to deal with insurance etc...

I literally just bought this one for $40.

I'd suggest using a good U Lock like this: https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469132985&sr=8-1&keywords=kryptonite+u+lock

Lock the frame/front wheel to the bike rack and loop the cable around your back tire. This should be enough deterrence to safely leave your bike outside.

That said, if the professional thieves want your bike, there's no lock you can get to stop them. I wouldn't lock up a $2000 road bike outside, but your bike should be fine I'd imagine.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WYAENC/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00

Origin 8 makes clip-on drop bar ends that might suit your needs without having to mess with your shifters or brakes.- and they're only $15.

So /r/bikewrench and /r/bicycling are much more active sub-reddits that you may see more attention on, but I can try to help you out here.

Switching the bars could require a few things:


Stem Size and by extension handlebar size: the Escape has a stem made for 31.8mm diameter handlebars with pretty large bars actually. Most drop bars you find will be 25.4mm at the stem and 23.8mm everywhere else. Any discrepancy can be an easy fix with some shims (either bought or made). It is also possible (according to Sheldon Brown) that your current bars may have very similar sizing to standard drop bars. The stem may also need to be shortened or lengthened to comfortably accommodate for the new handlebars and riding positions.


Braking: As you may or may not have noticed most drop bars come with brake levers that allow you to access the levers while riding on the drops. This is important because it allows you more leverage at the moments when you are going the fastest. Check out this image stolen from 'Lovley Bike' that shows the typical 'breaking on the drops' position.

While it is not necessary to have these brakes and the 'hoods' that accompany them it is an excellent idea and gives more hand positions! Alternatively it is possible to use levers only on the flats of the drop bars (but not the ones you currently have may need the aforementioned shims).

Shifting!
I see the Escape has Shimano M310 trigger shifters. Those also may have to go. They, like the brakes, can be mounted on the flats of the bar but it is only very low end bikes that do this to their riders. There are an ungodly number of ways to incorporate shifting on a bike with drop bars. You can integrate them into the brakes with STI's, stick them on the end of the bars with Bar End Shifters, Get them onto the stem like many vintage bikes Stem Shifters or get them on the down-tube for a classic look Down Tube Shifters...

That aside the only real options up there that you have for a conversion are Bar-end or "Brifters" Brake/Shifters...reusing your old ones could work but it would be inelegant.

Geometry MOST IMPORTANTLY! Your bike was designed to be ridden upright, the stem, top tube, every inch of the bike assumes the rider is using flat bars. There is no telling really what the ride will 'feel' like after you start riding on the hoods/drops. Its not as bad as most hybrids with front suspension but I could not tell you anything about how it might feel once the swap is made.


For moving forward I see a few options

Option 1 Quick and Dirty Get some drop bars and some old cans. Strip your current bars of components and install the drops(don't forget shims), If sheldon is correct about the size of over-sized road bikes all your old components should slide onto the flat part of the drops and just fit. It would be a unique way to ride but mostly functional...Personally I would have concerns about how safe it would be.

Option 2 More hand positions!
If what you want is more hand positions don't overlook bar end attachments:
Bar end attachments
Orgin 8 might actually have the answer to your prayers: Bolt On Drops

Option 3 Dress her like a roadie
Trying to make your hybrid into a road bike is usually not the right way to go but...with $10-30 for bars, and $100 for Shifters and Brakes, plus $10-20 for complete re-cabling across the bike (MTB and Road bikes use different cable ends) and of course labor if you aren't that handy. Tack on $10 for bar-tape to make her pretty and comfortable and you aren't that far in the hole.
You don't get off any easier for Bar Ends once you get the appropriate brakes its about the same. All that and your former hybrid could pass any scrutinizing test of a lycra-clad cyclist, you'd have yourself a certified road-bike. No promises on comfort!


This is just a vague indication though! For a real in-depth price assessment and Q&A please visit your local bike store

For my $00.02...Don't bother trying to convert them. Ride the bike you have the way it was intended to be ridden. If after a while you still feel like its lacking, throw on some bar ends for more hand positions, Still feel like its lacking? Go test-ride some road bikes to see if riding on the drops is right for you. I'm not talking about a test ride around the parking lot either! No less then 3 miles on that sucker, get a real feel for it. Love it!? Sell the Escape and do a TON of research into inexpensive road bikes. They are out there waiting for ya.

For just commuting and stuff I'd say go with a AA or AAA flashlight. they won't be as bright, but they will be much more versatile. Get some eneloops and you'll have a great system for years.

Personal favorite flashlight in the AAA dept is the Nebo Redline.

I know most people here like the Twofish Lock Blocks for holding the flashlight.

Or you could get the two as a combo.

That should be a good and easy to use system that's brighter than you really need for a price that's affordable.

btw, I'm leary of DealExtreme...they look fairly shady and there's not even specs for things like lumen output on a lot of those lights. Often you get what you pay for, and I'm guessing on those lights it's not worth the $8 you'd save.

I use these:

Two Fish Lockblocks Flashlight Holder
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CJXB5E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rknsxb1RVXXRA

But I don't think think I'd use them offroad except for on a helmet.

They easily adapt to any of the flashlights I have, but will bounce/jiggle quite a bit on rough roads.

You could try a harder plastic one like this:

Leegoal Bicycle Bike Flashlight LED Torch Mount Holder 360° rotation Cycling Clip Clamp
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ADLUDSA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8mnsxbQB4YCG8

I think they are called fish blocks. WOrks with any standard tube flashlight: http://www.amazon.com/Two-Fish-Lockblocks-Flashlight-Holder/dp/B001CJXB5E

You can mount with this type or this type quite easily. There are others as well, but most are not as good or too bulky.

The only issue with using a flashlight is you have to be very careful not to blind oncoming vehicles/bikes/pedestrians with any light bleed (or badly aimed light).

I'm surprised no one has mentioned the Shimano A530 Pedals. They're dual-purpose pedals meant for road bikes, with SPD pedals on one side, and a platform on the other. The catch is, obviously, that they're not dual side, so you may have to flip the pedal over to use the correct side of the pedal.

I just started going clipless, with these pedals as my first clipless pedals, and I have nothing but good things to say about them. The only catch is that I've been only cycling clipless for a week, so I have limited to experience to base my review on.

Ive been using these to great success: Shimano A530 Yet another half and half solution.

> She doesn't even use clipless pedals.

She does, based on pictures of her bike. She runs double-sided: flats on one side, Shimano SPD on the other. I run the same on my bike, but that's because it's not a dedicated racing bike.

My steering lock was previously broken by someone. I now put a heavy chain and lock through the rear wheel, like a Kryptonite lock. Two strong dudes could probably still pick it up and haul it away. The alarm idea sounds good. Another idea is to buy a cheap clapped out utility van, park it in your parking garage, and just keep the bike in there.

I recommend this: Cygolite Hotshot 2W

They don't come stronger than this one..

Niterider Lumina 750 (or higher) is a great light

Bikes direct has a steal of a deal going right now on the 1100 boost: http://www.bikesdirect.com/incredible_holiday/lumina-1100-boost-lights.htm

Don't go less than 700 lumens, don't settle for a janky flashlight rig.

edit here's a good taillight too: https://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/dp/B005DVA57Y (these things are bright)

This is what I use for my handlebars: Night Rider Lumina 650

Bright USB chargeable lights FTW! I like to be able to see what kind of pot holes and rocks I'm approaching. Also, with 650 lumens, you can seriously intimidate cars. Their driving behavior changes noticeably every time they see me.

I also have a Cygolight Hotshot for my rear, but I just got a new bike and now cannot find a way to attach it to my aero seatpost. First world problem, I know. Suggestions?

Oh hey, my lights post! Yup, the Cygolite Hotshot is by far the brightest and most flexible of the sub-$100 tail lights. Unfortunately it looks like Amazon's increased the price recently - it was only $27 when I did my review a couple months ago. Now it's $35. Still cheaper than the suggested retail price though.

I recently was asking myself this same question, and consensus seemed to be the Air Zound is the loudest horn.

Delta Airzound Bike Horn , colors may vary https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ACAMJC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_l5xYxbDSGJVRP

But I don't like the idea of needing an air reservoir for my horn. I have been using this for a while:

Hornit dB140 Cycle Horn with Remote Trigger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006TDEV20/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_l7xYxb01YQYW2

It's very loud but ruined by the sound it makes: it's a chirping noise and people look up in the trees on shared paths instead of looking back or moving over. I ordered and just yesterday received this:

ORP SmartHorn and Bike Light - BLUE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L3NK1O8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_K8xYxbH94B542

A light/horn combo, with two different sounds. It's loud, and if you get it off the Orp website they include the remote trigger for free. Haven't had a chance to try it out yet but my initial impression is very good.

I got this https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Hooter-Rechargeable/dp/B000ACAMJC/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2IDGL70Q0N3KJ&keywords=loud+bike+horn&qid=1565366365&s=gateway&sprefix=loud+bike%2Caps%2C205&sr=8-3

It's kinda obnoxiously loud. But if you don't lay on it, it's not too bad.

this horn will at least get their attention for a moment.

Get yourself an Azound bike horn: https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Bike-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

That and a few loud "Coming through on the bike lane"!, usually clears it out.

I'd recommend a bike airhorn. Might seem absurd, but it's highly effective at:

• Getting drivers to put down their cell long enough to proceed through the green light.
  
• Clearing glassy-eyed, drooling homeless out of the bike lane (bells are often insufficient to overcome the drug stupor).
  
• Setting it off in the I-90 bike tunnel for your amusement (the echo is awesome!).
  
  https://smile.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Bike-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

Rechargeable (bike pump) Air Horn on Amazon.com for $24

It's something I've had on my bicycle touring bookmarks for a while, debating the purchase.

The AirZound was designed for you

If you want something to fill the tire quickly, go with CO2 canisters, you can't get any quicker than that. If you want something a little more failsafe, I have the Topeka Road Morph G. It's a little bulkier than most, but I've found it very reliable, and can fill high pressure road tires rather quickly. There's another version for mountain bikes which doesn't work as well on high pressure but works to fill up the large volume quickly.

http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Road-Morph-Bike-Gauge/dp/B000FI6YOS/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375590423&sr=1-1&keywords=road+morph+g

This. Tops out at 160 psi. I have no trouble getting my tires up to 120psi.

On the x-posted thread someone was asking about gear load out... so thought I'd put it here as well..

In the saddle under the seat:

1. 20 dollar bill (to use as cash, not to fix a puncture :))
   
2. A crank brothers 19-piece multi-tool
   
   
3. A spare tube (700x25c)
   
4. Rema Tip Top Touring (TT 02) patch kit
   
5. Pedro's tire levers x 2
   
6. Home Made Medical Kit (antibiotic ointment, bandages, alcoholic wipes, gauze pads, a knife, ibuprofen/pain killer)
   
7. Zip ties (x4) for any kinda MacGuyver repairs :)
   
   In the snack bag on the top tube:
   
   
8. 2 Snack bars (Kind/Clif usually)
   
9. Some salt pills (if it's too hot and I'm sweating like nuts I'll take 1 per hour)
   
10. My wallet
    
11. My keys
    
    On my person:
    
    
12. Just the bike gear that I'm wearing
    
13. a RoadID incase of emergencies or a crash
    
    
    As for clothes at work, I have a locker so stock up once a week on them.. and also keep toiletries at work. HTH!

Everyone knows you need Pedro's.

Agree, Pedro's are the best.

They even handle my Marathons easily.

I have this one and really like it. It lets me transfer all the goods from one bike to another easily.

What I have in mine:

• CO2 canisters ex
  
• CO2 inflater ex
  
• Patch kit ex
  
• Tire levers ex
  
• Allen key tool ex
  
• Tweezers (I use these to get things like thorns out of my tire)
  
• Spare chain link ex (just be sure you get the correct one)

Here are some deals I've seen and when they come up or shut down. (All times are Pacific)


USB Rechargable Bike Tail Light on sale at 3:45

Foam Rollers go on sale at 4

Kryptonite 18mm New York Fahgettaboudit U-Lock, Black Goes on sale at 3

Revolights bicycle lighting system Midnight

Womens Pearl Izumi Shorts

Pearl Izumi Jerseys 4:00

Different pearl izumi bibs

Pearl Izumi shorts 5:45

Pearl Izumi bibs as shown below 4:45

Canari womens shorts

Brooks saddles bicycle bar tap 2:45

Yakima DoubleDown 4-Bike Hitch Mount Rack 4:45

Very compact sleeping bag 4:30

Compact first aid kit 3:00

Kryptonite Evolution Mini-5 Bicycle Ulock 3:35

headlamp 5:30

Polar Heart Rate Monitor 3:30

LED Strobe Lights 2:30

Youphoria Sport Towel ends at 3:15ish



Sram Bar Tape ends at 2:50
Kryptonite NY Standard on sale 6:50

If you like your bike, bring it inside. Locking your bike up outside is pretty much asking for it to get stolen.

I lent a friend a tri bike, told him very specifically to keep it inside. what does he do? locks it up out side and it gets stolen. That was $1000 down the drain.

Also, learn how to lock a bike properly and get a decent lock.

Basically what everyone else said, go to class. Yeah I get sometimes you're tired but really you'll do way better if you go. 9 times out of 10 you are not that person who can only show up for tests and get an A (or even a B). If you hate waking up in the morning either a: go to bed on time and/or b: avoid taking morning classes.

A bike is a good investment but you really don't need an expensive one (in fact I'd recommend against getting an expensive one, bike thefts are really high around the beginning of the school year). And if you do get a bike, and I can't stress this enough, get a U lock. They're super hard to cut and make a lot of noise in the process so most bike thieves won't bother with them but make sure to loop it through the front tire and frame. Worst case scenario, they'll steal your back tire but its better than your whole bike.

Someone mentioned that you should avoid apartments and go for housing. Honestly apartments are fine as long as they're not student living apartments. Avoid student living like the plague. They seem tempting at first, furniture and utilities included plus separate leases, but you're generally stuck with shitty cable/internet and the furniture is basically low end IKEA stuff. Yeah it'll be a bit more expensive getting furniture at first but you can find decent stuff for cheap on craigslist. And you'll save a lot more if you have people paying for single rent then individual leases.

I'd assume many of you will be looking for jobs. If you're trying to support yourself on a single fast food job you're going to have a bad time. They generally give you basic minimum wage and don't give you many hours to begin with. When I was working at TC I was making $70 per week max. My roommate who works at JJ makes about the same. Really the only way to get decent money doing fast food is delivery. Go for retail/grocery store jobs. They suck too but you'll get decent hours at least.

And last try to avoid spending too much time in your dorm/apartment/house/etc. It's okay to be introverted (but as cliche as this sounds) meeting new people is part of the college experience. If you live in a dorm, try hanging out in the lounge. If you're in the other living spaces, eat at the dorm cafeterias (terrible food but you'll meet people). And joining clubs is not a bad idea. There's generally something for everyone.

Depending on your location and school, having a gun in your dorm may not be illegal, but merely against the university rules.

If you are going to leave the firearm in your car, I suggest you disassemble it and take the complete upper (slide, barrel and recoil spring assembly) with you. Those components are not considered a firearm, and it leaves the receiver in your vehicle much less valuable a target for theft.

As for securing it in your vehicle, cheapest and most effective option is running a quality U-lock through the mag well and attaching it to a car seat frame (leave it underneath the seat).

This is a good U-lock:

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417384536&sr=8-2&keywords=u+lock

I biked through Wichita Falls this summer on a cross country trip! Biking from Wichita Falls to Lawton, OK was one of my favorite days of the entire trip. Might not be the prettiest city, but some of the countryside north of there is great. (Also you guys have the Hotter Than Hell 100!)

For accessories you definitely want to get a hefty U-lock (this is a good one) and learn how to lock it up correctly. If you are going to be biking at night, get a front and rear light. If you are sticking to roads with street lights you need a "be seen" front light, if you are going to be biking in the real dark you'll need a higher powered "seeing" front light.

Here are the must-haves for anyone:

1. A helmet that fits
   
   
2. A portable pump like this Lezyne pump in case you get a flat
   
   
3. Backup tire tubes / patch kit / tire levers for the same reason as above
   
   
4. A good bike lock - I like this Kryptonie Series 2 kit
   
   Optional but nice to have:
   
   
5. Water bottle cage & water bottle
   
   
6. Bike shorts or bib
   
   Depending on riding conditions:
   
   
7. Bike lights/reflectors
   
   
8. Cold weather riding gear (pants/etc)
   
   
9. For commuters, panniers/etc
   
   
10. Or a small backpack

These are awesome. Extra batteries can be purchased on amazon as well as larger ones. They are equipped with a quick detach so it won't get stolen while off the bike. CycleGaz uses one.

I bought this light a while ago (it was $40 then, now it's $20). This thing is seriously almost as bright as a single car headlight.

I have now purchased 5 of these lights; 2 for myself, and after seeing them in use, 3 for the owner of the bike company I just recently left:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006QQX3C4/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You cannot beat them for the money.

I did bike "maintenance" for years using a clamp nailed to my back porch railing. I say maintenance because it was mostly cursing, bruising myself trying to leverage my bike, drinking beer and spending far too long on the simplest tasks.

I got this stand and it is solid as a rock. Has made any project from simple adjustments to overhauls so much easier. Now it is happy tinkering and drinking beer.

Mine consists of moving the kitchen island cart and plopping down there. Hah!

Finally getting a collapsible repair stand.

Gotcha. True, I can see that price with the unit being marketed towards pro teams' mechanics.

This is the stand I use, and it's been great. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D9B7OKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Honestly, your needs are really pretty minimal and your budget is more than adequate. Here are a few points to consider to get the bike to do what you want.

First, get a rear rack and panniers. This might cost $100-$150 out of your budget, but is VERY worth it because now you can carry things with you. Your commute is short enough that a backpack wouldn't be terrible, but if you want to pick up groceries or go longer distances then the backpack becomes a much less attractive idea.

Second, I recommend getting flat resistant tires for commuting. A flat tire sucks when you're on your way into the office. Count on spending close to $100 for a set of these. It sounds like a lot, but the difference in dependability is huge. I have Continental Touring Plus, but there are a few brands out there that have build a solid reputation.

Third, get a good lock, and use it. The bay area is bad for bike theft, even from places that you think would be safe. They're very easy to sell for a quick buck, no questions asked. Read up on how to lock the bike and how not to.

Fourth, get front and rear lights. Get good ones. It's staying light later now, but you want to be really visible to cars. I use a light like this in front: http://amzn.com/B00GJZ015Y

Happy shopping!

> -If you ride a bike around your campus: get a u-lock and a u-lock only.

And use it right. Through at least the the frame and bike rack, front tire if you can, and if it came with an extra chain/cable, loop that through the back tire.

This kind of lock set is what I mean.

Basic short-term security. Don't leave a bike outside over night, and make sure anything you lock down to during the day is permanently affixed to the ground. Unbolting cheaper racks is not as uncommon as you'd think. https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-KryptoLok-Bicycle-Lock-Cable/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1502318140&sr=1-2&keywords=kryptonite+series+2

I'd buy this one instead.

I've personally been using that lock for the past year or so when I lock my bike at the train station.

edit: Fixed backward link syntax.

1200 lumen cree lights from amazon are around 20 bucks. A bit of hackery to mount them better than the kit it comes with but they are bright and rechargeable and so far mine has been really solid for the last 2 months

http://www.amazon.com/Lumen-Bicycle-HeadLight-Flashlight-Headlamp/dp/B006QQX3C4

> In a nutshell, I hate that all the battery packs for lights, run out in 20 minutes. All of them are ni-cd or nimh. Super expensive and I don't think that bike companies use the brightest LED's available to save on cost/maximize profit.

Then you haven't explored the existing market for bike lights appropriately. Look into Magicshine, Niterider, Lupine, Exposure, Cygolite.

They're mostly using lithium ion batteries. They all claim hours of runtime, depending on the setting. They're using LEDs that don't suck.

20 minutes? Ni-Cd? Have you even seen a modern bike light? The only really credible point you make there is that they're expensive, but that's really subjective, and in my opinion, also not true.

Exhibit A:

http://www.amazon.com/Lumen-Bicycle-HeadLight-Flashlight-Headlamp/dp/B006QQX3C4/

I own three of these and one MagicShine 808. They are functionally identical. I have put them side by side, and they perform identically. I mount one on my handlebars with a wide-angle lens and one on my helmet focused as a spot beam. With this setup, I can ride my 4" FS trail bike through the woods, over demanding trails with multiple 1-2 foot drops, in pitch black. For less than $30 per light.

You could argue, then, that the Magicshine is a ripoff for charging about three times the cost for a functionally identical product. I might agree, I don't know enough about Magicshine's costs and business to really say whether they're price gouging. But in their defense, their products do seem to have a lower reported failure rate by users. The knockoff lights work when they work, but a higher number of customers receive a dud or experience failures of the product with the knockoff. Mine are working dandy, and even if two fail, replacing them will still be cheaper than having bought MagicShines, though I do understand that some people might not want to deal with that kind of product failure.

So I don't mean to insult, I mean to warn you: If you honestly believe the quoted text above, then you have no idea what you're talking about with regard to the current bicycle headlamp market and you need to research this more thoroughly before you start making business plans.

I got this back in January and it hasn't died on me yet. All but the lowest setting is too bright for city streets. I keep it aimed down and use the wide angle lens (sold separately) to get better spread.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006QQX3C4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's an Origin8 Classique HD. It mounts on the axle and brake-bolt. It says 'max load 55 lbs' but I've put 80 on it with no physical problems... just really hard to turn.

https://www.amazon.com/Bikehand-Mechanic-Bicycle-Repair-Stand/dp/B00D9B7OKQ

Works well with my road bike and my MTB.

I have used 2 stands. One is a cheap $50 amazon stand the other is a Park Tool stand I found on craigslist. The Cheap stand work, it is taller but less stable. I prefer grabbing the seat post than grabbing the top tube so the cheap stand will rotate to balance the bike. I cannot get the chain horizontal to run though a chain cleaner. It will always settle to an angle. If it doesnt bother you than a cheap stand works. bike hand has a stand that was $90 now $100 that the head is teethed to prevent rotation. I was going to get that one before I found the Park Tool Stand on Craigslist.

Any stand will be usable but some might be less stable than others or give you a headache. There is a point you pay for what you get before it turns into you pay for the name.

I got this one and its worked well for general maintenance, repair, and bike building.

I only have two legs and I rarely fall over.

Seriously though, unless you're being careless they are plenty sturdy. I'd recommend this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D9B7OKQ/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And I've heard good things about the Aldi stand if you want to go super cheap.

You should definitely get a torque wrench. I've been happy with the Nashbar branded one.

Man, thanks everyone for the responses. I promise I was never trying to be a jerk with the flashing light. I'll not do that anymore (I of course knew it was bright enough to get noticed, didn't think about peoples' lack of ability to perceive motion from the flashing).

I'm going to try the suggested tip to aim the light from 50m at a wall tonight. Also going to see about finding a good and/or diffuser lens for my light. Between these changes, hopefully I'll have better outcomes.

I don't have to ride in the dark enough to buy a more exspensive light, but who knows, maybe Santa will come thru.

FWIW drivers are still jerks sometime, no matter what we do. BUT, hopefully I can be safer, make them more aware, and not ruffle their feathers (too much, a little can be productive! ᕕ( ᐛ )ᕗ).

For all those in the US that do so, enjoy your Thanksgiving! For the rest of you--enjoy your day anyway!

I have flashing LED lights which you can't miss in the dark. Red in the back and white in the front.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015IEJ0GC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just one, I had bought a bunch of light up junk totally unrelated for a silly race, and it happened to fit perfectly around the board. Well, perfectly around my board, with those particular bash guards on.

I folded the light strip in half, marked it, taped it center front (just to hold it in place), and put the bash guard over it to lock it into place.

With the hot glue gun, I did one small section at a time. One squeeze of the trigger worth, and then pushed the light strip into it all the way, so it made good contact with the board. Don't try to smooth it like caulk, it'll get weird.

The light strip ends just as it reaches the rear bash guard with about 1 cm space left on each side. So whether or not it looks even depends on how well you centered the whole thing.

With the head and tail light on, it looks pretty good, I think. I Prime Now'd the same Blitzu bike tail light from another post on here that I can't find at the moment. And then ordered the headlight that I figured might fit on the front truck. It does. Barely. Sort of. If you turn hard, you might into some issues. I have yet to really test that before I get a second one. The neat thing is that the headlight(s) now point into the direction I'm turning.

A few more photos of various angles.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013G6PB8

20 bucks, plus you'll want some bar tape.

If you want to brake and shift from the drops, at least 300 more and it'll still suck.

Edit: Also consider clip-on aero bars. You can't brake from those anyway. Otherwise if you want a road bike with drops, sell the one you have (or not - n+1 and all that) and get a caad10 ;)

You don't really say where you are and what type of riding you'll be doing but here's my $0.02 on what I've done and would recommend to others.


Clipless Pedals + Shoes --> These are the newer version to what I use on my roadie, but if you want the versatility of the dual clipless or the single+flat on the other side, you can do that. Or you can go with full-road-cleated pedals, of course. For the shoes, try some out at a store, the internet hasn't replaced this step.

Saddle bag -- I err.. duct taped a tube to my seatpost and carry the rest of my crap in my jersey pockets.

Water bottle -- If you ride in extreme weather, consider an insulated bottle, it's sooo nice to fill with iced water and have cool water to dring on 100F+ days

Pump -- I have one that came with a bracket to bolt under the water cages, maybe look for one like it (can't remember the brand of mine)

??? (I have no idea what else I will need) -- you'll need/want:

• a multitool to adjust or fix anything that can come up. I have the park multitool and I don't really recommend it as there's probably better tools out there for road bike use, just make sure that it has a chain tool included.
  
• Tire levers, if they aren't included somehow in the multitool. I always carry one extra so I can have 3 leverage points if I get a flat.
  
• With a new bike you might need bottle cages.
  
• Get some chain lube if you don't have any.
  
• Depending on chain brand, a power link or quick link
  
• For patch kits, the park one is pretty much OK but do stay away from the self-adhering ones, they're garbage!

your price is just about right for shoes + pedals. Most new bikes dont come with a pedal so unless you know otherwise about the bike you are getting you will probably need to purchase a pedal and if you are purchasing pedals you might as well purchase shoes :] right? if you give a cyclist a bike, hell want pedals, if you give him pedals, hell want shoes... :P Also im a big fan of just splurging on what you can and enjoying the full package. This is all dependent though on your budget.

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-A530-Dual-Platform-Pedal/dp/B001MZ2AGO

this is the pedal i ride on my commuter. its a good dual duty pedal and the platform feels solid. Its a bit bulky so i dont ride it on my nice bike but if your planning on clipping in only sometimes i would suggest this one. If you are planning on riding clipped a majority then i would suggest a pedal without the platform.

Here are the differences in clips. (i think they are called the cleat but i am going to continue calling them the clips)

road clip

road clip shoes notice these have 3 holes where you screw the clip into the shoe in a triangular pattern.

spd clip

spd clip on shoe

notice the spd clip is smaller and recessed. This makes the shoe feel more like a normal shoe and you dont notice the clip as much

road v spd, road on left

road v spd clips and pedals

As a late disclaimer, I have never used road clips but this is the information i gathered in the process of purchasing. Road clipped shoes also usually have a stiffer sole, i believe.

As far as your question goes. I cant imagine long rides anymore without being clipped into the bike. You feel and are more attached to your machine. Your pedaling will most likely be more fluid, you can pull the pedals on the upstroke, your feet wont pop off the pedals on hard shifts letting you pedal through the shifts (something i couldnt do so well without clipless), and you have to learn to trust your bike because your stuck in it :]

That said, I did ride without clipless shoes for quite a while and didnt have any problems but if you asked me to go back now i wouldnt do it. I think if you cant swing a set of shoes and pedals right now, you wouldnt die because of it, but i would suggest investing in them if you are looking to be more serious about riding.

I hope this helps your decision and doesnt make things even more confusing :P

heres my setup for reference.

shoes $100

pedals $70

if your not sure how to use them. You slide the front of the clip in and then start pedaling and push the back of the clip in and it will click in. To get out you twist your ankle away from the bike and the clip will pop out. After i get my pedals i always loosen the spring on the pedal to the loosest setting, then tighten to preference. Looser settings will allow you to still twist your foot side to side while clipped in. Also i think spd clips will give you more side to side play than a road clip.

EDIT: i changes the road clip picture, it was a bit confusing before

/r/bicycling will be very happy to help you with this if you decide you want information. Here's the short version:

Locks aren't guarantees, they are deterrents. You just have to make your bike not worth stealing. Whenever possible, lock your bike in an area with plenty of pedestrian traffic, and where other bikes are locked.

Cable locks (example) are weak. They are for keeping somebody from walking away with your bike. If a thief has come to steal bikes, the thief will get this one, no sweat.

If you need something long like that, you can get a lock and chain (example) but be sure it's intended for use as a bike lock. Ordinary chain from a hardware store is too easily cut. This method is heavy and bulky, but it works.

My recommendation, to keep things affordable, simple, and convenient, is to buy a good U-lock (example). Kryptonite and On-Guard are popular, reliable brands, but there are others.

Most importantly, make sure you lock your frame to the bike rack. If you don't lock the frame, the battle is lost. Wheels are easily stolen, so lock these up as much as possible. If I'm being quick about it, I pass the U-Lock through the frame and rear wheel as well as the bike rack (the rear wheel is more valuable), but the front wheel can be detached to lock with the frame and rear wheel using the same lock.

You can look into locking skewers and such to protect your wheels and seat, but the priority is to use a good, strong lock to lock your frame and rear wheel to a highly visible bike rack. Also, keep a photo and detailed description of your bike WITH YOUR SERIAL NUMBER so that if anything happens, you can file a police report.

From Google image searching it looks like Presta valve. Quite a lot of pumps work with this type of valve except for the very cheapest of pumps. The valve is narrower than a schrader (like a car tire) valve, which allows your rims to be narrower and lighter because the hole in the rim for the valve is smaller.

As an example: http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Blow-Sport-Floor-Pump/dp/B002B7LTBY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415395593&sr=8-1&keywords=joe+blow

Once I got used to presta I actually greatly prefer it to schrader. I have some old bikes at my parents house that use schrader and probably will put presta tubes in em at some point just do be done with it.

I've used this and could not tell the difference to CRK grease. No experience with anything Nano though.

Here's a video of me cleaning and putting the whole thing back together. And, yes, it still works.

The two plastic body pieces were soaked for 24 hours before scrubbing it down. The lube used in the video for the plastic contact points as well as the trackball rollers is Finish Line Extreme Fluoro.

A big thanks to my friend /u/jfgorski for the Alphagrip iGrip! Read his opinion on the device right here, he's been using these things for years and has much more insight than I could ever provide. Also, thanks to /u/ripster55 for letting me post this here.

Waterproof gloves.

I know you said you have shoes, but these covers are reasonable. I'm not a huge fan of the color, but winter above the 45 parallel is a dark time of the year and a little extra "I'M HERE" never hurts.

This jacket might seem a little expensive, however I own a few Shower Pass items and cannot say enough good stuff about the quality, durability and comfort of their gear. In my book, they are one of the best wet weather bike clothing outfits around.

There are a TON of options for lighting. Basically you want something on the front that is 400 Lumen or better. For the rear, I've been buying Cygolite's Hot Shot for years. They've always delivered and I've actually had several riders comment on how visible they make me to traffic.

Not sure if that model Schwinn has braze ons for a rear rack? Would strongly recommend adding one and getting a bag if you do. It's really nice not having the weight on one's back in the wet. Good luck, and welcome to the non-fair weather cycling gang. :D

definitely was the truck, but super loud bike horns do exist.

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Bike-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

What about one of those really loud airhorns? It could put someone off guard without directly causing injury.

I raise you a rechargeable air-horn:

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Hooter-Rechargeable/dp/B000ACAMJC

This is the one that I have. I've been very happy with it!

You either ride on the sidewalk (which, IMHO, is totally fine if you judge the road to be extremely dangerous... don't ever risk your life... ) or gird your loins and take the fuck out of the lane. Light yourself up like a Christmas tree, get one of these, wear a reflective vest, and get ready for stressful nonsense and road rage. The ride MAY not be as bad as you think once a few additional factors are taken into account:

1. Traffic. Heavy traffic is your friend on these roads. I would imagine the lanes are pretty wide, so splitting them through heavy traffic will be pretty easy.
   
   
2. Pick your route. You may be able to whittle down the amount of REALLY fast road you have to ride on by taking some short detours.

That's awesome! You're definitely free to come by shop hours and ask advice and use the tools there. We've got all the bike tools you'd need for sure.

I'm sure if you post the picture on our Facebook page you'd get lots of helpful suggestions. To start you off, I'll recommend an Airzound horn. They're ridiculously loud and refillable with your bike pump.

Here are some ideas


http://www.amazon.com/Surly-Nice-Rack-Black-Cromoly/dp/B001GSQULS

http://www.arkel-od.com/us/all-categories/touring-bike-bag/t-42-lite-touring-panniers.html#!/more-details



http://www.amazon.com/Brooks-Saddles-Special-Bicycle-Saddle/dp/B001AYMOAY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367506572&sr=8-1&keywords=Brooks+B17+Special+Saddle


http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Alien-26-Function-Bicycle-Tool/dp/B000FIE4AE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1367506625&sr=8-3&keywords=topeak+multitool


http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Road-Morph-Bike-Gauge/dp/B000FI6YOS/ref=pd_sim_sg_10


http://www.amazon.com/Crane-Suzu-Lever-Strike-Brass/dp/B001MS2KHA/ref=pd_sim_sg_90


http://www.amazon.com/Velo-Orange-Hammered-Alloy-Fender/dp/B004JKK1V0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367506912&sr=8-1&keywords=velo+orange+fenders+hammered


http://www.amazon.com/Ergon-Series-Bicycle-Handle-Standard/dp/B0015QWRM2/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1367506936&sr=1-1&keywords=ergo+grips


http://www.amazon.com/Spenco-Classic-Glove-Beige-Crochet/dp/B0025UEWR0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367507174&sr=8-1&keywords=spenco+gloves


http://www.amazon.com/Keen-Commuter-Cycling-Shadow-Gargoyle/dp/B003Z4KPFI/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1367507250&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=keen+bike


http://www.amazon.com/Gold-Bond-Medicated-10-Ounce-Containers/dp/B001G7QSS4/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1367507286&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=gold+bond

Rather than standard tire levers, I prefer to use a speed lever for changing my tubes/tires. Though I think I want to pick up one of their speedier levers, because that knuckle protection looks pretty sweet.

For a pump, I'm a huge fan of the Topeak Road Morph G. Though on one of my bikes I forgo the pump and just ride with CO2 and a chuck since I flat so rarely and it fit is my seat bag (though I still always carry two tubes).

And as others have said I try to never go for a ride without my multi-tool an ID some cash, a bank or credit card, and my phone.

A 2,500 dollar bike is a bit much, but if you really want to bring an expensive bike on campus, get a nice U-Lock!

This is the best one I've ever used. I have a pretty nice bike, and somebody tried to cut through this lock to get to it once. They only got through the few mm thick outer rubber layer, and then gave up. It's a bitch to cut through this thing.

I built up a Disc Trucker last spring. I stuck closely to Surly's build in the gearing department as it mainly is a touring bike. I went 9-speed because the chains are a touch more durable and when you get into 10-speed, Shimano's road and mountain offerings start having some incompatibilities. With a 9-speed drivetrain, you can mix and match road and mountain to whatever extent you like.

I actually have two different gearing setups. One for true touring with a mountain rear derailleur and an 11-34 cassette and another with a road rear derailleur and a 12-26 cassette.

Here's relevant parts off my list:

|Part|Model|Other|Notes|
|:---|:---|:---|:---|
|Crankset|Shimano Deore M590|175mm arm length|Has the trekking gearing 26/36/48 and Hollowtech because why not.|
|Rear cassette|SRAM PG-950|11-34 for touring, 12-26 for commuting|Yes, as far as casettes go, it's a heavy bugger. But when we're talking about LHTs, who really cares overly much about weight? As a side note, you'd need a mountain derailleur to use the 11-34, but you'd be just fine with the 12-26 for your 105.|
|Shifters|Shimano Dura-Ace 9-speed bar-end||If you're using this for touring, I'd recommend the bar ends. Otherwise, get whatever brifters you like, use a couple of Travel Agents and get some V-brakes.|
|Brake levers|Tektro RL520|Long-pull|Those guys are long pull, so they work with V-brakes and mountain-pull disc brakes. Ergonomics are decent, if a tad too pointy for my tastes.|
|Handlebars|Salsa Bell Lap||No longer being produced, sadly.|
|Saddle|Brooks Champion Flyer||I've put thousands and thousands of miles on this saddle. Love it. It's a little heavy if you're doing light commuting. For daily commuting and touring, though, it's hard to beat.|
|Pedals|Shimano M520||They're pretty low on the totem pole as far as component level, but I've had nary a problem with multiple sets. Clipless that won't break the bank.|
|Chain|SRAM PC-951||It's a cheaper chain more than adequate for commuting and touring.|

All the drivetrain stuff is 9-speed, but you can find the 10-speed equivalents rather easily. In your case, if you're not setting off across the country or across the world on your LHT, I'd say go for a set of brifters. If you want to go 9-speed, I'd look for an older set of Ultegra shifters. For 10-speed, I'd keep it 105 or above...or Rival or above for SRAM. SRAM has a lot more tactile feedback on the shifts while Shimano tends to be smoother. I prefer SRAM, but to each their own. Bar-ends are great and low maintenance, but not being able to shift from the hoods can get a little annoying after a while.

As to online retailers, a lot of parts can be had reasonably from Amazon. I also use Jenson USA. They ship fast, have free shipping on orders above $50, and price match on parts. I use Nashbar occasionally, but their shipping department is woefully slow and I avoid buying from them whenever possible.

One of the things I like most about living here is not needing a car. There are certainly some places I avoid biking to/through, especially at night, out of concern for my safety. If I need to go there, I just use lyft, or get a ride from a friend.

Someone else mentioned that there are no bike lanes - this is not true. There are bike lanes on some roads, but not as many as I personally would like. That said, there are a lot of pretty narrow streets, especially in the quarter/marigny/bywater that simply don't have room for bike lanes.

One recommendation I would make is to get a bike airhorn for the moments when drivers aren't paying attention/don't care about bicyclists/aren't exactly sober, which seems to happen a lot here. This has saved me on quite a few occassions.

Wow... put a baby carrier on there... Just wow. That is so awesome. I want to get one and paint it black with yellow flames, and put a doll in it.

As for bells. You're doing it [wrong](http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn/dp/B000ACAMJC "This will put the fear of god into them.").

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

of limited utility.

This is the best option. If you really want to send the drivers a message, you could get an Airzound

Forget a bell. Get one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn/dp/B000ACAMJC

Might I suggest this bike horn
I just bought one a couple weeks ago and it has already saved me multiple times. Super loud and makes people jam on their brakes.

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Bike-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC


Yes, just recommended this elsewhere in the thread.

Excellent investment.

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Bike-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

Have to use the frame pump(or floor pump at home) to refill though!

Here ya go. Loud as FUCK

These things are loud:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Delta-AirZound-Rechargeable-Bicycle-Horn/dp/B000ACAMJC/

Best not to use them on pedestrians though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RiJMuSBLxzg

Delta Cycle Delta Airzound Bike Horn

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ACAMJC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_x2qoyb38HAP1S

Not a train horn, but also not expensive: https://smile.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC?sa-no-redirect=1

My coworker has an air horn on his recumbent trike. It hooks up to a bottle and is refilled with a bike pump. It is loud. Something like this.

example video made me laugh :D

hmeeep

What kind of pumps did you have trouble with? Stem mounted ones I presume?

If you're still interested in a pump, I'd recommend you get one with a hose. I have a Topeak Road Morph G and it works great. It functions like a floor pump so you can use your body weight when pumping.

I've got the Topeak Road Morph G which I'd give a 8/10 after using it as my exclusive pump for almost a year. The build quality seemed okay at first but it's showing signs of age quickly and after being mounted to my frame is collecting all sorts of sand and dust internally that is affecting its performance – I should probably clean it. On the plus side, it's large and easy to use even to get high PSI and it has a built-in PSI. On the downside, it's large and somewhat hard to mount on my frame.

This is the best advice here. As for a pump, if you're going to go with a regular pump this one is what seemed to come up the most when I searched this sub and it's served me pretty well. It does kinda rattle a bit when riding, though. Down the line you'll probably want to get a regular floor pump, too, something like this maybe.

I'd also agree that gloves aren't necessary. Also agree with two cages and two water bottles. I started with just one bottle but quickly realized that I need two. Any old cage will do, and Camelbak Podium bottles are a popular choice. I got the clear one so I can tell at a glance how much water I have left.

Get a pump with a little hose. And a pressure gauge built in is nice too. The hose makes it so much easier to pump because you can push against the ground to inflate. I have this one, I recommend it. It goes up to 100 psi easy so works for tubliss. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FI6YOS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_V-9Vzb90SXVD4

I use a Topeak rack with bag setup.

Just be careful and dont get a beach cruiser!!!!! id recommend a hybrid bike like a trek 7.1 and put a rack on it for panniers so you can carry your stuff. Also if you are over weight i highly recommend a brooks saddle i have a b17 and its wonderful on my ass. Also bike shorts 4.3 miles aint long, but it will make your life much easier. A cheap walmart bike will break often and be expensive to repair. Refer over to r/bicycling to learn more if you are strapped for cash id go with this bike its a good all rounder and bikesdirect is a good company, or a trek and the seat brooks b17 bike rack panniers shorts
Once again do not buy a bike from walmart it will make you hate bicycling. Oh also rules and sheldon brown a repository of all things cycling
Best of luck to you, safe riding and Dont buy this!!

Shaving 20 minutes off that time should be no problem, you only need to average 4 more miles and hour. Stick with it. I started commuting to work 6 miles each way about 3 weeks ago and it's awesome. Here's some stuff that'll make your ride more pleasant, if your bike doesn't already have these:

• $28 for a rack.
  
• $25 for panniers to go on the rack.
  
• Fenders to keep you drier
  
  Also, I'll vouch that cycling is possible in any weather, if you dress for it. I've gone mountain biking in December in Denver, and not just once.
  
  
  Also also - don't think of it as taking 20 more minutes, think of it as an hour workout that only takes you 20 minutes :)

That's definitely a steal. Have heard good things about these Tubus racks.

However, anyone have experience with an Ibera PakRak:

http://www.amazon.com/Ibera-Bicycle-Touring-IB-RA4-Frame-mounted/dp/B002T5H8MW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1458744660&sr=8-4&keywords=tubus+rack

Looks like a good deal. I'm looking for a rear rack that can accept panniers.

Right now, I have this Topeak Explorer rack on my Schwinn Varsity:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FIE3WI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01

My bike is a commuter but I am planning on taking it on some short weekend / week-long tours this summer, hopefully going for a month long tour at the tail end of summer.

Thanks for any insight, everyone! Cheers!

After consulting with this subreddit I went with a topeak rear rack and a wald wire basket. I secured the basket to the rack with four Nite Ize gear ties and it feels really secure.

I was looking for a cheaper option than buying all of the matching baskets and panniers that go with the topeak rear rack. I have a limited budget to spend on new bike gear each paycheck, so i'm slowly buying new items.

Today was the first ride without my backpack on my back. It was definitely an interesting feeling. I felt super light, but the back of the bike was weighed down.

Any comments or suggestions?

Thanks for the reminder. It was such a whirlwind trying to get everything in BikeIndex and Garage529 and talking to the police that I forgot to put the details here.

For the Cannondale Synapse SE 105 Disc 2019 it is unfortunately a 2 month old bike so it doesn't have too much to distinguish it from a stock new bike. The only modifications that I did were reversible accessory additions like

• Shimano SPD PD-ED500 pedals
  
• gopro handlebar mount with the Cycliq Fly12 CE twist mount
  
• 2x black bottle holders
  
• Topeak Explorer Rack Without Spring with a Cycliq Fly6 camera mount attached
  
• cell phone holder on the stem
  
• Upstand bike stand
  
  The bike rack looks a little out of place compared to the rest of it as it is actually a little beat up from wear on a previous bike. It also sports a Cambridge Bicycle store sticker. Serial number MD21685
  
  For the Marin Fairfax SC4 Belt 2018 it is a little easier. It has a bike room sticker for EF Education first. It also has the same Topeak bike rack which is beat up from a car accident. The left rear side of the rack is bent in slightly. It also has one of the water bottle holders and has the normal Cycliq Fly12CE camera mount directly attached. The belt drive is also fairly unusual so I am hoping it stands out more. It also has a sticker for Farina's in Watertown and the serial number appears to be 041716870 MRN-111-01-190.

Make it go completely flat first to make it easy and pry a section of the tire away then just squirt sealant in. Get yourself a couple of these to make it easy.

Decided to do something a little different. This is the first video of this type I've made.

In the order they appear in in the video:

Bag

• Chrome Citizen
  
  Writing
  
  
• Field Notes
  
• Space Pen
  
• Pencil
  
• Extra Pen
  
• Sharpies
  
  Tech
  
  
• iPad
  
• Case
  
• Keyboard
  
• External Battery
  
• Cable
  
• Shuffle
  
• Time-lapse thingy
  
• Tripod
  
  Bike Stuff
  
  
• Helmet
  
• Water Bottle
  
• Wind Breaker Can't find a link but its from gap.
  
• Tool Roll
  
• Wrench (Now replaced with this)
  
• Tube (700x28)
  
• Leavers
  
• Multitool
  
• Pump
  
• Light #1 (Can't find link they are both planet bikes)
  
• Light #2 (Can't find link they are both planet bikes)
  
• Light #3
  
• Carabiner

I just wanted to remind you to position the saddle parallel to the ground, and to Google some basic bike fitting tips (correct saddle height, and positioning). It's simple to do and will make biking even more comfortable.

As for the tube, you're going to need some tire levers, try prying off the tire & tube from the opposite side of the valve. once you have the new tube in the tire, inflate it a little and attach the tire back to the wheel starting with the valve. work the tire gently onto the wheel, and use the levers to pry / push it all the way on. (be careful when using tire levers, they may pinch the tube against the wheel and cause a puncture in a new tube.) I'm glad you're getting back into cycling, have fun!

Good call. I typically carry some of these...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IZGFCE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also carry a patch kit...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016HSA4O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pedros Tire Levers

There is nothing cheap or shitty about this lock and even the less intense locks are pretty damn solid and could easily be compared to locks twice their price.

This is a nice mini u lock

How big of a lock would you need?

I'm a fan of the Kryptonite New York series personally. They're super heavy duty...I can't imagine cutting through one...There's a 4x8 and a 4x10.25

I use the 4x8 to lock my frame and back wheel, and one of these bad boys to lock my front wheel to the frame.

It's overkill...I know...but I'm in New York.

Amazon is actually very reasonably priced on all of those by the way...if you're looking to order online.

As someone who has gotten a bike stolen I cannot recommend this u-lock strong enough. I have a pretty expensive road bike, and using two of these has keep me safe ALL this semester. HIGHLY recommend. The only con is that these u locks are heavy--they're built like bricks though. Don't skimp out on the locks--you'll regret it. Also, remember to lock your wheel and frame to the bike stand, and to lock your back wheel to the frame. Sometimes they'll simply take your wheel so don't risk it!

good questions. this mini u-lock combined with a cable [to secure front wheel, too] is what is now used by most who are serious about securing their ride.

and these two rack designs are typically preferred in the u.s.:

new york city rack - nyc is making this their "city approved" rack after a thorough design contest. bikes can lean against it to be stable; can lock the front, rear, and frame easily; and it looks very clean from a design standpoint

typical "u" tube: these are found a lot and function very similar to the nyc rack. aesthetically they're not as nice but a lot cheaper and good function. you can see how the yellow bike can secure both wheels and the frame.

btw - what country?

Look into the Kryptonite Evo Mini or Fahgettaboutit mini U-locks. They're about as small and light as they come without compromising security or getting a lock designed for a chain.

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Fahgettaboutit-Bicycle-U-Lock-6-Inch/dp/B000OZ9VLU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1311793787&sr=8-2

In that case, nothing less than this:

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Fahgettaboutit-Bicycle-U-Lock-6-Inch/dp/B000OZ9VLU/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1304026133&sr=1-3

If it's a really nice bike people -will- strip the parts off it, in five minutes with some hex keys your shifters, rear derailleur, etc can be gone. In a Shimano component world I wouldn't lock any new model bike with better than Deore (MTB) or 105 (Road) components in public. For SRAM, not better than X7...

Naiveté.

Moved from a suburb (where I could have left the bike unlocked in the back of a truck for 2 hours without a worry in the world) to a city for work. Brought the Giant Escape 2 my Dad had given to me, but only had a cheap cable lock and hadn't been given access to my work's bike cage yet.

3rd day of training, my start group and I were headed to happy hour. I walked outside and the bike was gone from the rack outside the office.

I was able to look at the security footage; some dude literally walked up, cut the lock discreetly, and walked away like it was his.

Filed a police report, and went to happy hour. Then I bought the Escape 3 and a Kryptonite U-lock and didn't bring the bike to work until I had bike cage access.

I went all out and got the Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit:

http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000OZ9VLU

This lock is small, but JUST the right size to lock your bike, with no room for anything to get in to pry it. It's a very solid lock.

Let's be real here....locks are only deterrents for honest people. If someone wants your bike, they'll find a way...


But to OP...if you want to make it a damn tough job to get your bike, invest in one of these...

http://smile.amazon.com/Kryptonite-997986-Black-Fahgettaboudit-U-Lock/dp/B000OZ9VLU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1413005358&sr=8-3&keywords=kryptonite+new+york

Your lock is only as strong as the weakest link so don't skimp on anything else if you're going to get this..I've held it in person it is pretty heavy...I'd say a good 4 or 5 pounds even though Amazon says 1...it's definitely not only a pound. But there's no way you're going to cut that off with boltcutters, you'd need an angle grinder. Keep that in mind if you're going to get it.

New York Fahgettaboudit, This is the bike lock I use, its expensive but its pretty much the only lock you'll ever need. Just the look of it alone is enough to make robbers look the other way.

Here's what I do for my Bullitt: One Kryptonite Fuhgeddaboudit (small as you can get), and a set of Pinhead lock set (locking skewers for wheels and locking seat post collar). A slim Tile under the cargo deck sealed with 3M Heavy Duty Packing tape.


With the pinhead lock set, you only need to lock the frame with the Fuhgeddaboudit U-lock (typically I lock at one of the lateral vertical braces parallel to the head tube, or if I have the big cargo box for the kids on the front, will lock around one of the rear seat stays).

Kryptonite Lock: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OZ9VLU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pinhead lock set: https://smile.amazon.com/Pinhead-Bicycle-Locking-Skewer-Pack/dp/B000XHBKOU/ref=sr_1_6?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1525893173&sr=1-6&keywords=pinhead+lock

I have a kryptonite fagetaboutit mini for the primary and employ two folding locks on the front a rear to cover the wheels. Usually a multiple lock approach means that many more cuts and will make your bike that much more unattractive to pilfer.
Stay away from any cable solution, they are worthless.

On a side note: I also started out with the PD-A530, however switched to double-sided clips (e.g. these PD-M520)

Can only recommend, e.g. when unclipped at a stop light, you don't need to worry about finding the "correct" side, you can just clip in.
No need to look down to and fiddle with the pedals when accelerating in traffic. You can just keep your head up and watch your surroundings (e.g. right-turning vehicles!!).

Short and leisurely rides with normal shoes can also be managed with these double-sided pedals (however, slightly less comfortable than with your suggestion).

Speaking of limited means, people will steal a bike that's only worth $100. $100 can be a lot to someone with limited means. If they lose their bike and have trouble getting into work, they're out even more.

That sounds obvious, but I'm getting somewhere with it. The argument of "they should protect their stuff better" falls flat when you start talking about people of limited means. A "decent" lock runs about $35-40. That's a lock you're going to be able to break quickly if you have an angle grinder, or even just a long enough pry bar. To get really good (note: not impenetrable) security, you're looking at about $100. And that lock doesn't even include a cable like the $40 one did, so you're spending even more to make sure you don't get a wheel stolen.

So suddenly the person on the $100 used bike has to spend somewhere between an additional $40-100 to have a hope that their means of transportation won't get stolen. That puts an even greater burden on people with limited means.

Anything mid-range is fine. Ultimately, unless you want to lug a 20lb chain around, any sort of U-Lock or mid-range chain lock is sufficient for temporary lock-ups.

https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496868581&sr=8-3&keywords=kryptonite+u-lock

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PUCSV7C/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i1?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pd_rd_i=B00PUCSV7C&pd_rd_r=FZPWAHQ8MTTBST4PJ2P0&pd_rd_w=ngc6h&pd_rd_wg=RU5PQ&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=C0QCXJ2M8NZ33CV8HY47&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=781f4767-b4d4-466b-8c26-2639359664eb&pf_rd_i=desktop

I've used both of the above at places like Bradford Beach, restaurants downtown, and Bay View on pretty nice bikes without ever having a problem. Make sure you lock up your front wheel as well, I see a ton of pretty average bikes sitting there without front wheels cuz somebody just used the quick-release and walked off with it.

Hence why you by a U-lock. Expensive as locks go, but cheaper than a new bike.

I just bought one today. think this will do it?

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1422560442&sr=8-2&keywords=bike+lock

I'll keep my eye out. That being said, might as well brush up on the bare minimums for keeping a bike safe.

Register your bikes. Multiple online services offer free registration and stickers. UCIPD and IPD both offer registration services. When bike thieves are busted, they could be in possession of your bike. If your bike isn't registered, then the cops aren't going to be able to contact you. Your bike will then be auctioned off by the cops. I think the proceeds go right back into the department. so i guess if you really like cops.. don't register your bike.

Keep your bike indoors whenever possible. Even hundred dollar U-locks can be sawed through eventually. A lock is ONLY a deterrent.

When it is not possible to put your bike inside, opt for a heavy chain lock OR a U-lock (Even better: a combination of the 2). Most cable locks are sold as accessory locks. If your lock was bought for less than 20 bucks, it's only for show. ex. 35 bucks. Onguard is also a pretty okay brand.

even though irvine is a low crime area, because of uci, irvine's going to always be a target for bike thieves. Combine life inexperience with laziness, and you'll get sitting ducks like 200+ dollar bikes being locked up with what functionally amounts to pieces of string.

I would return what you bought and buy this instead.

It's the same price for a better lock combo.

Tbh I got a set of cheap silicone lights from China off Amazon. If you forget to take them off and they get nicked, it’s not the end of the world. I got three pairs IIRC. Something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00FXO6MUA/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1524043742&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=bike+lights&dpPl=1&dpID=41db7Haaa5L&ref=plSrch

For a lock, I bought this because it comes with a cable so you can also secure the front wheel of the bike (seen so many bikes with quick release wheels have had the front one nicked): https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B005YPK8G2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524043790&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=bike+d+lock&dpPl=1&dpID=41mBBM7BkYL&ref=plSrch

Thanks! Any tips for where to sit/how to hold the bike on mass transit? I was successfully able to hold it out a little bit so that 2 people could sit on either side of me and nobody licked the flood trying to walk around the bike.

I read how to correctly lock up a bike, and bought this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005YPK8G2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It has good reviews so hopefully it'll work out.

Budget's too low to buy a quality lock. Just browsing Amazon.ca and the cheapest one I would recommend is this one.

There are some OnGuard ones too for less, but the reviews were mixed and some said that the locks freeze in the winter. You could check those out if you want but read the reviews because they do some sneaky things like making the U part thinner to save on weight (but it actually just makes it a easier lock to break).

Instead of something that's simply heavier, I'd go with a U-Lock + cable combo. The smaller you can get the better! Harder to break if it's really tight to the bike. Here's a great mini version of the above lock style: http://www.amazon.ca/Kryptonite-Evolution-Bicycle-3-25-Inch-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK9VQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1450290745&sr=1-3&keywords=kryptonite+u-lock+mini

Good luck finding your bike.

mine is a little shorter and thicker and hasn't let me down yet(also nyc)
http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-Bicycle-FlexFrame-3-25-Inch/dp/B005YPK9VQ/ref=sr_1_15?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1373928708&sr=1-15&keywords=bike+lock

As far as a lock goes, your best bet is a U-Lock with cable (similar to this - try to buy it locally!) AND to take it up to your apartment when you're home. There is absolutely no reason to leave your bike outside your apartment, even on the balcony. If you can fit it into your apartment that will be the best way to prevent it from getting stolen, and also keep the components from corroding from the humidity.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005YPK9VQ/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 is what i have, for when you do get a better lock i recommend that

As for a headlight, I have one like this. It's extremely bright and has three settings: high, low, blinking. I feel extremely comfortable with this on my bike and it lasts forever. I also opted for the wide angle lens that I think works great for riding on roads as it doesn't shine directly into the eyes of vehicle drivers.

For a taillight, I have this one. Again, it's got a few options for blinking/solid lights/etc, and the blinking option is super bright. I rode at night once and turned around to see if I could tell how far it was casting and I could see it reflecting off a stop sign about 1-2 blocks away.

One suggestion for a helmet (I don't know your budget), but I backed the Lumos Helmet on Kickstarter and received mine last month. It's awesome, and I feel way more visible with it than with a normal helmet. Plus the turn signals are a major plus!

It'll probably work the same as any of the other clones like this. They're okay. It really depends what you're using it for. It's probably all you'll need or want for riding sedately on pavement.

If you're in the US, and especially if you're a Prime member, you'll save some money buying it through Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Lumen-Bicycle-HeadLight-Flashlight-Headlamp/dp/B006QQX3C4/

And the clip lights here:
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1603/10000852/1072900-3-mode-2-led-red-light-tie-on-bike-light-keychains

It doesn't save you much, but savings are savings.

This is the current "best headlight for the money" winner at Amazon :

4 Mode 1200 Lumen CREE XML T6 Bulb LED Bicycle bike HeadLight Lamp Flashlight Light Headlamp

It doesn't use USB for charging, but that's kind of a good thing as its charger puts out more power than a standard USB port does so it charges faster.

As for a tail light, the winners aren't so clear, but so far I'm fond of the $5 Planet Bike Super Flash clones at DX.com -- get two of those and I'm set.

I got this light for $17. People always tell me its one of the brightest lights they have seen. You can also get a wide angle lense for it. I've had it for about 6 months. So far so good.

I have two of these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006QQX3C4/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

One on the handlebars and one on my head. The batteries need a little modification to be waterproof, but besides that, they work great.

Magicshine. I dont know how to insert links. I ride full on dh at night with one of these strapped to my head. Helmet mount can be found on amazon too. Best light for the money imho.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006QQX3C4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1368823682&sr=8-1&pi=SL75

I have a feeling it's going to be an origin8 classique front rack, but it comes tomorrow. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B135SSE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JHwKxbW4EKXZW

Other than that, my Cygolight Dash 350/Micro Shot head and tail light combo. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013FIYP8G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MGwKxbWRPVSW0

Thanks! Here it is:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00B135SSE

Check out the Origin8 Front Cargo Rack, it's much more solidly build and has double the rated weight capacity.

https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Classique-Cargo-Front-Rack/dp/B00B135SSE

I used mine fully loaded up for a 2 week offroad bikepacking trip which included a good bit of rugged singletrack and it held up great, and that was after using it for two years to haul myself and all my stuff around the city on my commuter.

It doesn't work with thru axels but will work okay on fender mounts if you use washers.

First time riding with a front rack (Origin8 Classique Cargo), and it wasn't a bad ride at all. However, getting used to the new handling along with the temp and winds, gave me quite the workout.

I just ordered http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D9B7OKQ/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item
due to the good reviews. Will let you know how it goes.

i borrowed my uncle's Bikehand stand this weekend and I think I need to buy my own now. it's amazing.

Bikehand Bike Repair Stand - Home Portable Bicycle Mechanics Workstand - for Mountain Bikes and Road Bikes Maintenance https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D9B7OKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_08PBDbXP44YEG

I transitioned into working on my bikes almost entirely by myself (Wheel building/suspension service/bearings excluded) and this is the exact path I went down as well. Here is everything I bought from Amazon:

The same $50 tool kit

Torque wrench

Cable/housing/wire cutter

Chain/quick link pliers


Wet/Dry Chain lubes

Park Tool grease

Degreaser

Blue Loctite

Carbon grip paste

And some additional small things like cables, cable end caps, ferrules, zip ties, etc. A set of needle nose pliers can be handy to help push/pull stubborn cables/housings as well.

Also, to make working on the bike 10x easier, I recommend getting a stand. I use this one because I am space constrained and it folds up nice and small, but there are probably better ones out there.

It seems like a lot of $$ to lay out at first, but it pays for itself pretty quickly compared to taking the bike to a shop every time you need to do something to it. Basically everything you need to do can be found on YouTube as well.

I made one of the pipe-clamp style ones a few years back. Not sure what plans I used, but this guy's youtube video shows more or less how I did it.

​

It was....okay. i mean, it worked. But to be honest, for the ~$30-40 I spent on the pipe clamp, pipe, fittings, etc and the time I put into it, I'd have been better off buying a cheap Amazon/ebay stand for $50-100. Which is what I eventually bought. But, that said, the DIY one did work.

Bikehand Pro Mechanic Bicycle Repair Rack Stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D9B7OKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_nNB8kaNDX5Ewy

I bought this one from Amazon.
Venzo Pro Mechanic Bicycle/Bike Repair Rack Stand
Wanted something with a small footprint when setup. So far it has been working great for me but most of the time I've been clamping it on the top tube of my hard tail which is also the balance point. So haven't tested it out clamping other things, like the the seat post.

that looks like the exact same stand I bought from amazon, rebranded as bikehand. It came with the tool tray. Works pretty well, and folds up easy.

https://www.amazon.com/Bikehand-Mechanic-Bicycle-Repair-Stand/dp/B00D9B7OKQ/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3AHQXDOA1095F&dchild=1&keywords=bikehand+bike+repair+stand&qid=1574355588&s=sporting-goods&sprefix=bikehand%2Csporting%2C143&sr=1-4

Sure! Honestly, I don't see any headlights that I'd buy but the Cygilite 2W is pretty good. For a headlight you could do really well getting a high lumen light from Amazon. I use a rechargeable one that I've used for over a year now and it works great. Similar to this one.

I posted this at r/cycling with no responses so I'll try here since it seems more active.

I am in need of a light (soon).

I am starting to ride my bike to work, and with winter setting in I'll be riding in the dark when it's not freezing out. I ran across these two lights on Amazon, are they any good?

1st choice: http://www.amazon.com/Best-Rechargeable-Lumen-Bicycle-Light/dp/B00GJZ015Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1410199224&sr=1-1

2nd choice: http://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-LIFETIME-GUARANTEE-SHIPPING-INTENSITY/dp/B00GGR0XD0/ref=sr_1_3?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1410199224&sr=1-3

Those were the top two ranked so I'm not married to them, just trying to get a feel for what I should look at.

I'm riding on streets/frontage roads for 10 miles each way, about 40 minutes of ride time each way. I'm not opposed to an external battery pack. If it matters my bike is a Trek 3900 that is a few years old.

Thanks!

I got a couple of cheap Bright Eyes Headlamps off Amazon. They're not the best head-lamps in the world, but more than good enough for riding, and the price is right.

Night-riding is the best way to beat the heat, and also gives you a nice perspective on the trails that you ride. I really like it - it kind of strips away a lot of distractions, and leaves just you and the trail.

It keeps me riding through Australian summer, and through the heat in Houston.

It depends on the route and season. If it's going to be a wet ride with 14 hours of no sun, then I run a dynamo hub with lights. The S&P hubs are relatively cheap. And I pair it with a IQ2 LUXOS U, though I am looking into an Exposure Revo MK1.

For speedier rides in the 5hr zone, I'll strap on one of these. The beam is a bit narrow for road use and it is symmetric so you have to be careful about blinding drivers. A spare battery is also pretty cheap, so you can have 10hrs of for $60 which is probably the best deal anywhere.

Finally, if I am doing something short like a 300/400k (well some 400k anyways), I'll throw on an Nightrider Lumina 750. The 5:30hr rating may be a bit optimistic, or my lights are getting a bit old.

As for lux... yea it's a German standard thing. I always wiki it (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lux) and look at the examples they have. You can also see an example of that beam here: http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/headlights.asp

It looks about the same output as my Nightrider at 200lumens.

I got 2 of these lights: http://www.amazon.com/Best-Rechargeable-Lumen-Bicycle-Light/dp/B00GJZ015Y/

Slightly more expensive at $40 each, but is one of the best reviewed "Magicshine 808 clones" on Amazon and the seller apparently has some of the best customer service (I haven't had to deal with issues yet, but they did send me 2 wide angle lens for FREE after I emailed them).

Real world test is probably nowhere up to claimed 1.2k lumens, closer to 800-900, which is enough for me now. I might grab another one so I can mount 2 on the handlebars side by side.

Note that many of the higher 1.6-3k lumen lights, even the $100-200 MagicShines, have heat issues when running on high for long periods of time, which could affect component lifespan.

Blitzu Cyborg

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015IFA03I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hT.lDbK9W0JPF

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015IEJ0GC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2T.lDb3DRK579

This one is my favorite of the lights I use, and it's rechargeable:

https://www.amazon.com/Blitzu-Rechargeable-Intensity-Accessories-Flashlight/dp/B015IEJ0GC/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1511376731&sr=8-6&keywords=

This one also works great, and runs on 2x AAA batteries:

https://www.amazon.com/CatEye-Omni-Bike-Light-Rear/dp/B008QVXQ1K/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1511376770&sr=8-8&keywords=

For the front, I use this thingy with any number of rechargeable (18650 powered) flashlights that I have:

https://www.amazon.com/Two-Fish-Lockblocks-Flashlight-Holder/dp/B001CJXB5E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511376885&sr=8-1&keywords=

https://www.amazon.com/Blitzu-Rechargeable-Intensity-Accessories-Flashlight/dp/B015IEJ0GC

Here's what I have-

Backpack: https://www.dakine.com/en-us/bags/backpacks/street-backpacks/mission-25l-backpack-17w/

Helmet: https://triple8.com/product/the-certified-sweatsaver/?category_name=skate

Shoes: https://www.vans.com/shop/suede-canvas-old-skool#hero=0

Pads: https://triple8.com/product/saver-series-3-pack-box/?category_name=skate

I only used all of the pads for about the first week or so, but I still wear the wrist guards-they've prevented serious injuries!

​

Board light (tail of the board): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015IEJ0GC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Board light #2 (front of the board): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015IFA03I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Front Backpack light (goes on my backpack strap, or hooked to my jacket on my forward facing shoulder): https://www.olightstore.com/h1r-cool-white.html

Back Backpack light (goes around my backpack): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N1SM2NQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The board lights aren't super bright, they're mostly so people can see what I'm riding. The O light makes riding at night very safe, and my back light has great visibility.

As for tools, I carry my skate tool and a couple of hexes, and some spare belts. I have a charger I leave in my office and one in my backpack all the time.

​

Hope this helps!

It was a this one

It's great, stupid bright and lasts at least two full days but I try to charge it everyday at the office.

Pedal: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000WYAENC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1395772017&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

There are other options, but those are the most common, they're cheap, and use the same cleats as the bikes at spin class. You can always upgrade later if you find a reason not to like these; pedals usually come with cleats and most or all MTB cleats use the same 2 bolt mount so they will work with your MTB shoes.

Shoes: go to LBS and try some on. All MTB shoes should be good for walking, but different brands fit differently. Or order online from somewhere with free returns in case they don't fit; the Shimano M-088 are a good start, I love the ratchet buckle.

the thumb shifter won't work on drops. flat bar clamp section is 22.2mm, drop bar clamp section is 23.8

You can make it work with the sora STI shifter you listed, the cheaper alternative is the microshift stuff you can buy on ebay (I'd go with second hand shimano stuff though)

Then you'd need new cables

Of course the easier option is to just get bar ends, you can even get drop bar bar ends

I have (nearly) the same bike as you (7.4 Firebrand) and ride mine for the same purposes. Lately I've been training for a charity ride and got a pair of these for cheap on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-33617-Drop-Ends/dp/B0013G6PB8

The only rub is that you have to also buy adapters for the IsoZone grips so the drop bar ends will fit (~$5). I also got some cork tape from the same company for relatively cheap, altogether making it much cheaper than buying whole new handlebars and shifters.

Also, if you're getting into more fitness riding/training, I couldn't recommend clipless pedals and MTB shoes enough. They've helped with my rides tremendously!

You could get bar end drops instead of changing out your handlebars completely.

This is what I suggest to people when they ask this question. Doing a true drop bar conversion will likely be too expensive to be practical. You had might as well either get some bar-ends like these or just save up for a different bike.

• Mountain bikes tend to only have 1 way to hold the bike. Ditch the grips and get some bar tape, along with some bar ends. Normal bullhorn style ones are fine, but if you really want to step up your game, Origin8 makes some drop-bar attachments that are pretty sweet
  
  
• Clipless pedals aren't for everyone. If they make your feet and knees hurt, don't use em. Simple as that.
  
  
• This could be a matter of posture. If your core isn't supporting enough weight, it can mess up the curvature of your back. That will move strain up onto your upper back and shoulders...right where you're getting the pain.
  
  
• Might be a loose headset. Could be worse a trip to the shop.
  
  
• Knobbly tires are terrible for road riding. Swapping to a smooth road-tread or outright slick tire will improve your bike's grip and acceleration significantly.
  
  
• Getting a fitbit or some other personal telemetry tracker would probably help.

You will need new brakes as well because the Tourney brifters won't pull V-Brakes enough for them to stop. I personally don't recommend that he go this route.

The better route might be:

• Origin8 Drop Bar Attachments (http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Drop-Ends/dp/B0013G6PB8)
  
• Keep existing shifters
  
• Get Tektro RL520 V-brake drop levers
  
• Get Tektro RL740 interrupter levers.
  
• New brake cable and cable housing.
  
  You may not be able to shift from the hood or drops, but you'll have more hand positions.

These might be Origin8 Drop Ends from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013G6PB8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I installed these on my raleigh cadent 1 hybrid and it's great! Offers similar feel to standard drop handlebars without the hassle of actually converting.

The Finn is a simple, compact, reliable phone holder.

The Fenix or any of a number of similar mounts can affix a small handheld flashlight to your bars or helmet. You have to take care with helmet mounts, because the extremely intense lights available can be blinding to drivers when you turn your head in their direction.

I use one of these along with I really good CREE LED flash light and a Planet Bike Superflash tail light. I have the Planet Bike blaze, blaze 1watt, and blaze 2 watt headlights and find that they are just not bright enough for where I ride. (I ride on completely unlit roads). Although I do LOVE the mount on the Blaze headlights.

I just posted pretty much the same thing about a week ago.

I ended up ordering this Two Fish Lockblocks Flashlight Holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CJXB5E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0cY0xb9DM7MV3 to use with my Astrolux S1 and it works fantastically. But it took a while to get here so before that I was using a couple of rubber bands and a paper towel to protect the paint, haha.

Edit: the BLF A6, which is identical to the S1 is on sale right now on banggood.

I use Twofish Lockblocks/flashlight holders on three of my bikes. They're cheap and simple and they stay put.

I've always liked Twofish lockblocks but there are cheaper alternatives in that style.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004CXNY3G/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&redirect=true

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CJXB5E/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TJ45L6/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BZOMYM/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KBEH1W/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00

ride safe

I've never owned a real bike light. The Fenix-Store used to sell these TwoFish LockBlock flashlight mounts and I picked one up when I ordered a replacement PD30 after losing mine 5 or 6 years ago. Have used it on 5 or 6 different bikes with handlebars ranging from skinny CrMo BMX bars to thickly-wrapped, fat mag-aluminum road-bike bars, and with every light I own (except the 1xAAA ones, which I could probably just clip to the velcro loop if necessary). From the narrowest part of an SC52 to a fat plastic incandescent 2x123 light; it holds it securely and doesn't swivel or move even on slick, wet leather or metal. The rubber helps absorb a little bit of the road vibration, but that's an issue with all bike lights I'd imagine. Got left out in the rain/sun/snow for over 2 years while its primary home was outside of a college building. Hasn't started to dry rot or fade or anything. And it hasn't been stolen, which is a miracle in this city. The bungee cords on my pannier rack have been stolen three times, as well as the permanent, screwed-on mount for my taillight (when my taillight wasn't on it), but they never took my little rubber/velcro doohickey. Oh and the Us are different sizes so you can flip it around to accommodate thicker lights or bars. If you have a really thick light and wrapped handlebars you might be in trouble...

Kinda weird to give such a raving review of a piece of rubber with two u-shapes and velcro straps... but as both a flashlight enthusiast and a frequent cyclist, it's helped me cut back on my gear since I can just slap whatever's in my pocket on my handlebars and roll. And then I don't have to invest a bunch of money to have a durable, waterproof, multi-mode (without PWM) bike light. The situation is different now, I guess. Since I assume you can get decent-quality LED bike lights for cheap just like you can get a decent ThorFire flashlight for 9 bucks.

Oh and Zebralights are crazy efficient. I miss my SC52. Even running a measly 840mAh 14500 I could use it for everyday tasks for a few weeks. I'll be picking up another ZL sometime soon :)

Sounds to me like you'll be after either a cyclocross/gravel grinder bike or a commuter. Both styles have clearance for wide 700c tires and (usually) mount points for racks and fenders, which are invaluable commuting accessories. The cyclocross/gravel bikes have drop (road style) bars, while the commuters have flat (mountain style) bars. Both are equally at home on pavement or gravel roads, but will struggle with true mountain biking.

Here are a bunch of new commuter bikes for ~$500:

• Kona Dew
  
  
• Trek 7.1 FX
  
  
• Scott Sub 40
  
  
• Giant Escape 2
  
  
• Specialized Sirrus
  
  
• Cannondale Quick 6
  
  
• GT Traffic 2.0
  
  
• Diamondback Insight 2
  
  Most of these can be had with better components for a few hundred more.
  
  Cyclocross/gravel bikes:
  
  
• Surly Cross-Check
  
  
• Surly Straggler
  
  
• Niner RLT 9
  
  
• Kona Jake/Jake the Snake
  
  
• Specialized Tricross Series
  
  
• Trek Crossrip Series
  
  Of all those, the one I'd be most likely to buy is the Straggler.
  
  Another thing I'd recommend investing in is clipless pedals. For rides of more than a few miles they make a huge difference. These are what I use on my commuter because they allow use with bike or street shoes.

SHIMANO PD-A530 SPD Dual Platform Bike Pedal

Almost 2 years ago, and not much wear and tear (except for some falls while learning to clip in and out LOL)

For first clipless pedals, I like the Shimano PD-A530s. They’re SPD so you can walk in the shoes easily, and have clipless on one side with flats on the other so you can ride in sneakers occasionally.

I have them on my hybrid so I can go with whatever shoes I’m wearing for commutes, rides with the kiddo, etc. I still have the option to go clipless on that bike if I want using the same shoes as my road bike and its PD-M520L pedals.

Shimano PD-A530 SPD Dual Platform Bike Pedal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MZ2AGO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7S41Ab03R9VC1

For shoes I have Shimano SH-CT71 which I like just fine.

Shimano 2015 Men's Recreational Cycling Shoes - SH-CT71L (Black - 41) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LWGSQ7A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DW41AbV539CR4

This kind of setup is about $100, so it’s within your budget. I’m not sure what more you’d get for the extra money really..

i have some hybrid pedals. they are shimano spd and are flat on one side. my daily commute is about 1 mile, so it is really not worth putting the bike shoes on, but when i ride for pleasure i like to go 10-20 miles. then it is worth it.

My pedal setup.

pedals

shoes

I have a set of Shimano PD-A530 on my Salsa Vaya that I use daily for commuting (platform) and longer rides on the weekend (SPD).

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-A530-Dual-Platform-Pedal/dp/B001MZ2AGO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376967521&sr=8-1&keywords=shimano+pd-a530

I really like them, they have not failed me after 2000 miles and are a solid feeling pedal. Even though they do not have the more 'spikey' surface on the platform side I have yet to have my feet slide off even in the wet. It may be a smidge out of your price range, but honestly it was for me as well, but I do not regret it one bit!

The big thing to keep in mind with dual pedals is will you be able to easily flip them to the side you need. With the A530s the SPD side is always on top in it's equilibrium position which means I don't have to look down to find the side I want. I just reach for the pedal with my foot and either clip in, or flip the back of it forward to get to the platform side.

Personally I think the design of the pedals you are looking at would make it really hard to determine which side of the pedal you are on. But, just like everything if you get used to it I'm sure it will work great. It all comes down to personal preference I guess!

Is this the one you're talking about, or do you mean the A530 or the M324? It looks to me like the M530 is dual sided clipless, but there's only one picture in Amazon, so I can't be sure.

I'm considering getting clipless pedals, but I also like riding to the grocery store or park and it doesn't make sense to change shoes.

Next time get this setup: https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-York-Fahgettaboudit-Bicycle-Chain/dp/B001SMUB7G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524778156&sr=8-2&keywords=kryptonite+chain

It's a lot harder to break into these.

You can't get better than this.

It weighs a ton, and takes about 45 minutes to sawzall through.

The lock is a disc tumbler lock, so it can't be picked or screwdrivered. No non hydraulic bolt cutters can cut through it.

Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit U-Loc

Bike's not going anywhere unless they got a serious angle grinder (which some do, but probably not worth the risk of ruining the grinder trying to get an older bike)

As long as it's not way too small or large for you, that's a good buy. I own a vintage road bicycle and enjoy it more than most modern bicycles I've ridden. That being said, my recommendations:

• Get a tune-up for sure, but don't paint it. It looks fine!
  
• Get some nice bar tape (perhaps cork?) and replace that nasty stuff
  
• Adjust your seat, it looks quite low; at the bottom of your pedal stroke your leg should be almost fully extended
  
• Since you have a quill stem, you can also easily drop your handlebars further down, or pull them further up probably
  
• Just as a word of precaution, you should invest in a nice pump with a gauge like this and check your tire pressure every few days (at least).
  
  Peugeots are definitely solid vintage road bicycles. I would have bought this if it were on my local Craigslist. As others have said, these are also great to convert to single speeds or fixies, but I'd keep it as a road bike. However if you wanted to sell it at a later date and you live near a college, it might be easier to sell it as a fixie ;).
  
  Congrats, enjoy the ride.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002B7LTBY/

I use this one and it has been great:

http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Blow-Sport-Floor-Pump/dp/B002B7LTBY/ref=sr_1_2/182-7405441-5301903?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1419998243&sr=1-2

My last pump was a POS and didn't have a built in gauge. I'm much happier with this one.

Definitely get a bib, not shorts. I hate the elastic in shorts, and bibs also don't shift around on you. I am a big fan of Voler and they also have some of their items on sale on their website right now.

You didn't specify which kind of pump you have. If you don't have a floor pump; get one. You will always want to top off your tires before you go out. There is a lot of debate on pumps, but I love my Joe Blow Sport.

Don't get a camelbak. I am in love with my camelbak for hiking, skiing, hunting, etc. but hate it for road cycling. It is uncomfortable in the road cycling position. I'm no expert, but it also seems to generate a lot more drag, which will slow you down. Get bottles instead.

I'm a huge fan of 24 oz Polar Bottle. They are cheap and keep your drinks pretty cold.

I would also recommend a quality energy drink if you are going on long rides (4+ hrs). I love Cytomax Tropical Fruit. Buy super cheap bottles if you are using energy powder, because they are hard to clean and get kinda gross after a while. Before I started using a good energy drink, I would tend to bonk out after 4-ish hours. Switching to an energy drink helped me keep going on longer rides.

If you bought all of these things, you would be just shy of $200. Things I'd consider but don't think are absolutely necessary are: gloves and a good jersey. Also a bike computer, but a lot of people are just using Strava on their phones. You can also buy another bib in case you want to ride multiple days in a row.

Hope this helps!

Edit: Definitely have a portable pump and/or CO2 inflator with you on your rides.

I have the Topeak Joe Blow for home and Topeak MasterBlaster on my bike. I'd recommend the Morph wholeheartedly - it's got more power than my MasterBlaster, due to its larger footprint and footstand. Should get you through most anything, but a good big pump at home is invaluable.

I purchased the joe blow 2 a few months ago. I've had to use it about every weekend to repair flats. So far it's done its job.

It's not an awful idea. I use a Teflon lube that I think works better. But lithium grease is better than nothing.

Mmm... you brush some krytox on those switch parts, then you rub some extreme fluoro on those stabilizers, you naughty typist.

Fluronated grease like this - http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002L5UL92?cache=97a37de83a21196249043fbbf214fbd1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1410415440&sr=8-8#ref=mp_s_a_1_8

I'd recommend a USB-rechargeable 2w rear light.

Do you want them to see in the dark, or to be seen?

These are the best:
http://www.dinottelighting.com/

They are not cheap.

Here is a much more affordable tail light:
http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/dp/B005DVA57Y/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1372712157&sr=8-4&keywords=cygolite+bike+lights

In my opinion, any of the super cheap blinky lights (e.g. Knog, ~$10) are a waste of money. They won't make you more noticeable. I don't know how much you care, but there are plenty of youtube videos demonstrating how bright some of these lights are. Without knowing your budget, it's hard to recommend something.

I have a Cygolite Metro 1100 and Light & Motion Urban 650. Both are enough to see with and ride around 20mph on paved surfaces. They are supposed to last ~1.5hrs at peak output. After dark, I ride with both.

I find that the typical advertised runtime on 500+ lumen lights doesn't go past 2hrs without an additional battery pack (not all have swappable batteries). Only the cheap lights aren't weather resistant.

Other brands such as Nite Rider, Lezyne, and Cateye make some really bright lights. I wouldn't go below 500 lumens if you ride with any pace.

As for taillights, a Cygolite Hotshot and Light & Motion Vis 180. I think I go a good week before recharging. I ride with both after dark and one all the time.

As far as flashing and constant, I do one of each in back when in traffic, constant on trails. Headlights are always constant and I turn off the super bright one on trails.

Thanks for playing along.

> Busch and Muller Ixon IQ Premium

Good This might be one of the most amazing light out there. Unlike many other lights they recognize that "good" isn't just pumping out tons of lumens. They put the light where it needs to go, on the road and not where it shouldn't be - in drivers eyes and in the trees. Them and Light and Motion have the best optics I've seen. There's a few tunnel beam test out there which show beam patterns well.

This review sold me on the light

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwM7vDvvGhU

They cover the beams at the end.

Now the thing is in this vid he's shooting pitch black, which all lights look bright in. Either way the flood is great.

Bad The high run time is listed at 3hrs (standard pretty much..) which is just long enough or a little too short depending on you. I wish more lights ran 4hrs on high as I take long rides with breaks in the middle. Itd be nice to not worry.

It doesn't have any side cut outs for visibility which do seem to help, even on very low powered lights.

Ugly

The main downfall for this light is its price, which I think is over $100. For some people $100 for one light isn't great. Some people might prefer to spend $100 on a different lighting setup (albeit likely with worse optics).


>Cygolite Hotshot



good

Crazy popular and a pretty neat light. I like the strong strobes and customizable flash settings for traffic

bright, unique flash patterns, affordable, good company.

bad

My big beef is it lacks a gentle pulse like this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UthVrhsbRr4

for group/night trail rides i dont want to blind people. also id love to run a pulse/flasher combo.

PDW (I think) makes a light that combines a crazy flash pattern with a gentle strobe, that might be king...

ugly

lots of complaints about the mount, going back to at lease 2012. last thing i want is to lose a light on a ride w/o knowing.

"This light is great for visibility and can be seen from far away. MAJOR DRAWBACK - the light is mounted to the bike with a very flimsy mount. every time i go over a bump the light is jostled and ends up pointing straight down at the ground which of course defeats the purpose."

http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/product-reviews/B005DVA57Y/ref=cm_cr_pr_top_recent?ie=UTF8&filterBy=addThreeStar&showViewpoints=0&sortBy=bySubmissionDateDescending

My $30 tail light Cygolite Hotshot 2-Watt USB Rechargeable Taillight with USB Cable by Cygolite that was recommended to me on Reddit. Its like Ron Jeremy the Hedgehog. IT just goes and goes its small but mighty but smells better than Ron. . I charged it once and it lasted approximately 42 hrs of use in warm weather.

Link: https://amzn.com/B005DVA57Y

also my REI Flash 22 pack for $33.93 is awesome you have to love the dividends.

If only the Urban lights and motion 200 was as good its a total piece of crap in cold weather it lasts one ride before needing charging in hot weather it needs charging every 5 hours. Their claim of 12 hours on low pulse is bull crap

When it comes to books, you should always wait until the first day of class so the professor goes over what you will need for the course. For some classes you might not even need a book at all! You will not be using the book very much if at all the first week of the quarter so you will be perfectly fine waiting until the first day or two to order your books! I recommend avoiding the bookstore because it tends to be overpriced. Amazon has much better deals if you want a new book. For used books, join the Textbooks for Sale Facebook page, which is part of the UC Davis groups on Facebook. Also, many people obtain their books in PDF format online or through others who have taken the course. While this is not legal, it does provide for a very cheap alternative to buying your books (but again, it is illegal in most cases unless the publisher has explicitly released the book online in PDF format free of charge!)

I live in West Village as well actually! If you are in a furnished apartment you will get a bed, desk, nightstand and dresser to yourself. You also get a TV stand, living room table, dining table, and a sofa included that you will share. I recommend coordinating with your housemates on what to bring. That is what I did and it is way better than bringing 4 sets of silverware, plates, etc. Is there anything specific you'd like to know about that you should bring? The bare minimum (computer, clothes, kitchen utensils) is what I brought and I am doing just fine!

As for bikes, I recommend a single speed or standard road bike for commuting. The commute from West Village to the middle of campus on bike is 5-7 minutes depending on how fast you biking.

If you are looking to spend under $300 then buy a nice, used road bike when you get to Davis. There is a Bikes for Sale page for UC Davis on Facebook that is regularly updated! Craigslist works fine too. If you are looking to spend $300 or more, ($300 to $500 can get you a good quality bike that will last you throughout college) I recommend checking out this website: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/road_bikes.htm

I personally ride a Single Speed and I love it! It has no gears so you don't need to worry about shifting. It is lightweight, fast, and reliable. I have the Windsor The Hour from BikesDirect (it was $300 when I got it). I recommend the Mercier Kilo TT if they have it in stock (it is extremely popular so it is hard to find in stock). Otherwise the Dawes SST AL and Windsor TheHour/Clockwork are great too!

Let me know if you have any other questions!

Edit: I almost forgot! Thanks for reminding me /u/nTranced. A good U-lock is a must in Davis. Bike theft isn't extremely common but it does happen from time to time. If you have a nice bike make sure it is locked up with a U-lock. I personally recommend this lock as it is a good combination of price and effectiveness: http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405012899&sr=8-1&keywords=kryptonite+bike+lock

I bought this set as good decent lights, not the brightest, but enough to see in city/town conditions in the dead of night, probably okay if you are very rural;

http://www.amazon.com/Metro-360-Hotshot-2W-Light/dp/B00E1NQ696

As for helmets, more cost generally means lighter/more ventilation, depending on how much either of these means to you.

On locks, I'd suggest a set like this;

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1396539131&sr=1-4&keywords=kryptonite+lock+combo

it will allow you to lock the frame/rear wheel with the U, and the front wheel with the cable. It terms of safeguarding your bike, it's more like defensive driving; how, where, time of day, amount of people around, prevalence of bike theft, are bigger factors than the size of the lock.

I have a Monster cable lock now and just read the reviews on the brand for the first time. Definitely need to upgrade. I am thinking about something like this. U-locks are supposed to be great, and the cable would help keep the wheels safe.

• Fork: JRFOTO Carbon Fork
  
• Wheelset: Weinmann DP18 (already had these)
  
• Pedals: Shimano PD-M520L
  
• Saddle: Charge Spoon
  
• Crankset and BB: SRAM S300
  
• Stem: Not sure of the brand. Took it off of a Surly Steamroller.
  
• Bars: Fyxation Rodeo Pursuit Bullhorns
  
• Bar Tape: [Cinelli GEL Cork] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0067ST9XS/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) (I'd never wrapped bars before and this tape is one of the easiest to wrap)
  
  So pretty much the only thing that's the same as when I bought it is the seatpost and seatpost clamp.

Definitely. If you're new to clipless, I suggest these shimanos:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/cr/B000WYAENC/ref=aw_d_cr_sporting-goods

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004XG5XNG?qid=1331411493&sr=8-4

Another option is fit a flat bar and install some drop bar ends

The only downside is there is no braking from the drops.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Venzo-Road-Bicycle-Bike-Adapter-Handlebar-Flat-Bar-to-Drop-Bar-Ends/162916437340?hash=item25ee938d5c:g:I4wAAOSwepNdJlz3

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/handlebars/jtek-superlight-drop-bar-bar-ends-black/

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Origin-33617-Origin8-Drop-Ends/dp/B0013G6PB8

This get's brought up all the time and I've done extensive research on the topic when I had a Sirrus that wasn't getting the job done anymore. Yeah...don't do this. It's physically feasible but not advised for a bunch of reasons. In terms of your hands going numb, you need a fit. I'm guessing your arms are totally locked out when you're riding leading to the numbness. You'll get more out of the bike from a proper fit than you would trying to convert it to drop bars.

If you really want to keep your bike and not go full drop bars, grab bar ends like these and retape your bars. You won't have access to your brakes from the drops which is obviously a very huge downside of this plan so be careful if you do.

If you can slip something on the existing bars these might work for you:

Origin8 Drop Ends https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013G6PB8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KvgSDbG502Q1F

Haha yep! Origin8 makes em. http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-33617-Drop-Ends/dp/B0013G6PB8

For the lazy.

http://www.amazon.com/Origin-Bicycle-Drop-Ends-Black/dp/B0013G6PB8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1342743214&sr=8-3&keywords=bike+bar+ends

I found these! But they have been noted to be uncomfortable and small on a 7.3 fx.

Because your shifters won't likely be compatible. I've asked the same thing before.

These are in my wish list but I don't know how good they are, https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013G6PB8/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_1_2?colid=39RF70MNEX2EY&coliid=I3G3NKESNEV642

Butt you might want to look into buying a road bike. You can get a low end bike starting at 600.

I have the twofish flashlight holder, cheap but effective flashlight mount.

I've got Shimano M324 on my Giant Defy Disc. Running them with Gito Treble II 2014's. They aren't the most racey, but whatever. I can clip in when I want and ride around the hood in some tenni's. I dig them. You may want to check out Shimano A530. I've heard the A530's can be slick.

Here are a couple to get you started.

If you want to ride the same bike clipless and then with street shoes, something like that is the way to go.

Maybe something like these so you don't have to swap the pedals.

no, those are MTB pedals, not road pedals. see my list in this thread for some compatible shoes. these are good pedals if you intend on sometimes riding with shoes that don't have cleats in them. Since they are flat on one side and clipless on the other side. And the flat side is wide enough to be comfortable and keep your feet secure as well.

I'd recommend the Shimano A530 pedals, they're pretty great imo and got plenty of good reviews, you got SPD on one side and platform on the other when you don't feel like using your cycling shoes.

> The ideal scenario is to have a big club where you can find a group that goes at the pace you want, but in most places your options will be limited. Perhaps start by practicing your group riding skills with a slow group, then go with a fast group and accept that you might get dropped.
The average guy on a Saturday or Sunday morning doesn't care about the gender makeup of the group but does want to get a good workout. They won't mind if they have to wait for you for a few minutes after designated sprints, but if you can't keep up at a normal cruising pace then it's better to wave goodbye.

Oh, totally! I completely understand that. There are some bike shops that have group rides of various levels, but that's about it. Not too many clubs (other than casual ones) around here that I've been able to scope out. But, maybe I'll check out the casual ones to learn some etiquette-- that sounds like a good idea!

>Consider getting started on clipless soon, since clipping in and out quickly is a key group riding skill. Other than that, all you really need is the equipment to repair a puncture (bring a spare tube, not just glue and patches) and the right clothes, including gloves and glasses.

Rodger that! I'll probably get clipless in a month or so. Do you have an opinion on THESE? I want to have the option of using my bike to commute-- so I don't want to commit solely to clipless.

>Sounds like you're on the right track. See if you can bump up to 3 days per week training as this will really help. And if you're only doing short workouts make them count. Towards the end of winter you should be doing some tough interval sessions.
When you have an opportunity to race in the spring, just dive in. Crits are great fun if you can keep your cool when people are riding very close to you. Don't worry about poor results at the beginning.
Women's racing often has small fields or mixed fields, so a lot of races break up. Just keep hammering away.
And if you get a chance, have a go at individual time trialling. It's either the most boring form of racing or the truest, depending on your philosophy on life.

Yeah! I think they have open studio time, so I'm hoping to get in a 3rd training session during the week by myself (I just don't have the cash at the moment to pay for the 3x/week program ;( And biking outside isn't an option here in the winter-- though if the weather holds up like how its been: We might skip winter entirely!)

Re: Racing-- Oh I plan to! The first one is in April, so I'm planning on doing one per weekend (if possible), before the BIG tour comes in June. Provided I finish all of the races I participate in, I think I'd be able to compete in those as a Cat 4!

Last year I got my first "real" bike and decided to take the plunge and get some clipless pedals, after about 2k miles I will never look back. A friend in the cycling industry recommended Shimano SPD pedals, they are cheap and easy to exit, (road specific pedals and shoes tend to be more expensive) and also tend to have a recessed cleat. I have Shimano shoes they are comfortable, and relatively inexpensive (as far as bike shoes go) you might be able to find some better deals on nashbar or other sites like that though.

I am about to order some Shimano PD-A520 which is more of a touring pedal, it has a bigger platform which will reduce hotspots on long rides (which wasn't a problem until recently, probably due to shoe wear.) You may also want to check out these which give you the choice to use clipless shoes or just regular shoes.

*sp

Use what I got they give you the best of both worlds.. You can either click-in or use platforms.

Cool shoes! As far as pedals go, I'd get a combo pedal with one clipless side and one flat side. That way, if you decide to use normal shoes it still works. Or if your legs/feet start hurting after hours of keeping them in the exact same position on a clipless, you simply flip the pedal and enjoy some freedom of movement on the flat side.

I have one pair of these pedals on a MTB, and I don't really like them. They weigh the same on each side, so they never flip to one side by themselves. When you start pedaling you never know which side will be up.

I'd much rather get something like this, because they will always orient themselves with the right side up. I don't have experience with those pedals in particular, but I've got some almost identical ones made by Exustar and I like them a lot (couldn't find them on amazon though).

The R530s are on sale for $39.99 on Performance:
http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product2_10052_10551_1108401_-1

Pretty sure these are the pedals I have on my Peloton, $29.99 on Performance:
http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product2_10052_10551_1167364_-1

And these are the pedals I have on my cross/town bike. They have a platform on the flip side, $42.45:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MZ2AGO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The clip for the SPD style cleats is smaller - much smaller and harder to clip into than the LOOK style. But once you get used to it, they are really easy. Overall, I'm glad I made the switch.

I use this for my scooter and motorcycle. Bought it when I bought the scooter.

I had my GSXR600 stolen a few years ago, luckily I put GPS on it and I was able to recover it. I left it unlocked at my old apartment complex (used to chain it to a post with a huge Kryptonite MC chain/lock) for less than 6 hours, ONE TIME, and it was gone.

Besides using a disc brake lock, I also bought one of these:

D-yun Fake CAR Motor Alarm No Wiring Only Led Flash https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PBQN9OC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uSRzDb46HMNFN

It’s just a flashing LED, and I velcro’d the battery box to the frame underneath a fairing, so I can still switch it on and off easily, and change out the batteries. Then, I put the LED kind of near the triple clamp so that you can see it blinking if you were to sit on the bike, or look near the gauges. I use Lithium batteries and the thing lasts for 4 months or so, sometimes I even forget to turn the LED off for weeks, and it still doesn’t die. I would say this is absolutely worth the $10 on amazon.

Most bike thefts are just crimes of opportunity, and if someone sees a little light blinking down near your gauges, the best you can hope for is that they move on to someone else’s bike.

I recommend a disk brake lock, but with Groms, the things are so light that it’s not really hard to just pick it up and put it in the back of a truck and drive off. So don’t rely solely on the disk lock. Locking it to a post with a serious chain is much better than just a disk brake lock, but then you have to bring a chain with you in your backpack. I used to use this one at my apartment complex, but there's no way you could carry it around in a backpack, the thing weighs like 20 pounds. (Also, you can see in the reviews plenty of people still cut through these. A battery-powered angle grinder will pretty much get you through most locks/chains. Which is why the goal is just to make your bike harder to steal than all the other bikes around it.)

The thing with bikes is, if someone wants it bad enough, they will take it. Whether that means using a cutoff wheel to cut your chain in 15 seconds, or picking it up and putting it in the bed of their truck, etc. The best thing you can do is make your bike harder to steal, so they are less inclined to steal it.

If you want full protection, I highly recommend buying a GPS unit, I have two SpotTrace units that I bought on Amazon, you pay monthly but there is a promo code rn for 50% off of an annual subscription, so I think I got a whole year of service for $100. Their app works pretty well too, and if you use Energizer Lithium batteries, they last for several months. The ONLY reason I was able to recover my GSXR was because it had GPS. If it weren’t for that, I’d have never seen it again. There are other GPS units on Amazon too, SpyTech (I think?) makes one that uses 4G data, so if you live somewhere with good cell coverage, that's a good choice too. I think SpotTrace uses satellite data, so it's good for Boats, hot air balloons, etc (things that travel far outside of cell coverage) but it has also always worked well for me on my cars and bikes.

EDIT: The only reason I don’t like disk brakes with alarms is that some of them are so sensitive that they start going off every time the wind blows. You don’t wanna be the guy in your neighborhood whose alarm is going off every 15 minutes while you’re not home. Also, I’ve seen people pretty much “silence” those alarms with chewing gum.

EDIT 2: Also, know that the handlebar lock (the one you engage with your key) is a joke. Most bikes handlebars can be unlocked by sitting on the seat, leaning back, and kicking the bars using your legs and leverage. Sure, it will break the lock mechanism, but the thief doesn't care.

Pick up something like this to chain the e-bike up with:

Kryptonite 999492 14mm x 60-Inch, 1415 New York Fahgettaboudit Chain and New York Disc Lock (Black)

https://www.amazon.ca/Kryptonite-999492-60-Inch-Fahgettaboudit-Chain/dp/B001SMUB7G/

Same here in VA:

https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-999492-Black-Fahgettaboudit-Chain/dp/B001SMUB7G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1501213914&sr=8-4&keywords=Kryptonite+New+York

I use these on my scooters and my motorcycle.

This very cut resistant chain: Kryptonite 999492 Black 14mm x 60" (1415) New York Fahgettaboudit Chain and New York Disc Lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001SMUB7G/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_tzUOub1QFAHSC

Paired with this movement alarm: XENA XX15-SS Stainless Steel Disc Alarm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0067MFQ1S/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_2zUOub1Z4MFQD

And yea.

You'll pay in weight and cost, but this is probably about as secure as you'll get.

If you're using tubs... or tubeless (can't remember which), I can't help you much from experience, but I can tell you Lezyne makes some beautiful and well-engineered products and you'll need a shock pump to seat the tubular or tubeless tires onto the rim, so I would feel confident recommending this Lezyne floor pump.

On the other hand, if you run clinchers, I've had good luck with this Topeak Joe Blow pump, rated for up to something like 160psi

Also, you likely already know, but just in case, here's /r/triathlon

Your 5 tubes could have almost bought [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Blow-Sport-Floor-Pump/dp/B002B7LTBY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503409742&sr=8-2&keywords=topeak+bike+pump). Just buy a proper pump already. I use this pump, it works great.

I've been very happy with my Joe Blow Sport II.

I highly recommend Hako Clears.

The tactile bump is very clear and high, giving a topre-like feel and a nice meaty cushion at the bottom.

I upgraded from cherry browns and it's like night and day, especially after I lubed both the stems (with [finish line extreme flouro teflon grease](Finish Line Extreme Fluoro 100% DuPont Teflon Grease, 20g Syringe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002L5UL92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0TYtDb4EZ5ED3)) and the springs (with [dupont silicone lubricant](DuPont Teflon Silicone Lubricant Squeeze Bottle, 4 Oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BCVXUVM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ESYtDbT85X5A5)).

The extra work is 100% recommended for the smoothest tactile action I've ever felt.

Definitely just need to lube your stabilizers. Apply some of this to both the key inserts and the wire clip and you should be squeak free.

Finish Line Extreme Flouro is what most people (including me) use. You can find it here on Amazon for around $12. Also, with the whole car part grease thing, I would suggest wiping that off. Some greases can eat away at plastics. /u/ripster55 did a whole lube guide and put it on the Wiki, I would suggest taking a look at it.

sure...here you go. finish line comes in the syringe, which makes it easy to apply some to the stabilizer housing so you can brush it. taeha types does a good video using this grease combo.


finish line - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002L5UL92/
permatex - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/

Just got one the other day! I found some grease on Amazon that works great if you run out/don't want to use the included stuff

They're excellent. I'm loving the MX reds. All the keys are boobs except maybe stabilizer keys, but using ripster's guide to lubing and this, the pinging and movement did seem to improve.

Nice looking! What lube did you end up using on the stabs? I think I tried the lube I had lying around on my last build: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002L5UL92/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and not sure that was the right call...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002L5UL92/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For plastic on plastic ^

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL8VD2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For plastic on metal ^

The Permatex isn't a bike lube, but it's fantastic.

here is a link to the lube i got https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002L5UL92/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If that is this, then no - don't use it for switches.

However this is a good lube for stabs where plastic and plastic touch.

I picked this up off a recommendation on this forum and it has worked for my pok3r: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002L5UL92/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I do all my riding at night but mostly paved trails. I did a ton of research before buying my lights.

Front:

MagicShine 872 - This is what I use. For Price per lumens you can't beat this thing. It's crazy bright. I have it on 50% most of the time sometimes lower. For distance it's about the same at 50% or 100%. 100% is just much brighter immediately in front of you.


I would actually recommend the MagicShine 808 though. It's a little cheaper and all my research showed the side by side comparisons the 808 actually throws light out a little father. It's just not as bright in the first 25 feet. Since I leave my 872 on 50% it wouldn't matter and I would get a little more distance.

http://www.amazon.com/MagicShine-MJ-808U-Bicycle-Improved-1100-Lumen/dp/B009GSLUR4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1409954087&sr=8-3&keywords=magicshine+872

Both have an external battery pack and don't use a USB charger though. Which for some people is a problem. I don't mind strapping the battery to my top tube.

Edit to add: Neither of these has a flashing or pulse feature. They do have an adjustable brightness level though. 872 has last for roughly 2 hours for me at 100%. The power buttons illuminate to give you a rough estimate of battery level. After a 2 hour ride with it on 50% the entire time it will show that it has more then 50% left. They say it will last 3 hours at 100% but reviews I read said it last 2 1/2 at 100% then dropped its self down the 75% then 50 > so on until it completely died at 6 hours. I've not actually done that myself though.

Rear:

I use Light & Motion Vis 180 - This thing is ridiculously bright and I love it. Full 180 degrees of visibility from the amber lights. It's very expensive though for a taillight.

http://www.amazon.com/Light-Motion-Tail-Silver-Moon/dp/B00LH1W9AU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=8-1&keywords=light+and+motion+180

My research pointed to Cygolite Hotshot 2W USB being the best bang for your buck. I would have bought this but my LBS didn't carry it and I needed something that night for riding so i got the Light and Motion.

http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/dp/B005DVA57Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409954733&sr=8-1&keywords=Cygolite+Hotshot+2W+USB


Hope this helps.

Whats I use:

Headlight, very powerful and better than others I've used

Taillight, multiple flash settings, very visible

Reflective Tape, I cut out some 1 cm wide strips and placed it on my frame and spokes, add visual safety

I've been good with a 450 lumen Cygolite on the front, and a Bontrager Flare R on the back.

But the Cygolite Hotshot Pro is a really good taillight too (guys in my group run them), so I'd recommend picking up a combo pack, like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/CYGOLITE-LIGHT-COMBO-METRO-HOTSHOT/dp/B07545T4Y9/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=cygolite+combo&qid=1550174357&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

Also, I always run two taillights for redundancy, I've had my tail light stop working before, and I didn't know, so consider picking up a lower cost hotshot as well, like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/dp/B005DVA57Y/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=cygolite+hotshot&qid=1550174600&s=gateway&sr=8-2

• [Crank Brothers multi tool] (http://www.amazon.com/Crank-Brothers-Bicycle-19-Function-Silver/dp/B0012Q41HY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418363910&sr=8-1&keywords=crank+brothers+multi+tool)
  
  
• [Topeak saddlebag] (http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Aero-Wedge-Buckle-Medium/dp/B000FIAU8O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418364745&sr=8-1&keywords=topeak+saddle+bag)
  
  
• [Cygolite Metro 400 Headlight] (http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Metro-400-Rechargeable-Headlight/dp/B00LXTOT6I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418364255&sr=8-1&keywords=cygolite+metro+400)
  
  
• [Cygolite Hotshot Taillight] (http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/dp/B005DVA57Y/ref=pd_bxgy_sg_text_y)
  
  
• [CatEye Wireless Bike Computer] (http://www.amazon.com/CatEye-Wireless-Bicycle-Computer-CC-VT220W/dp/B004RE783W/ref=sr_1_16?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1418364327&sr=1-16&keywords=cateye)
  
  
• [Finish Line Chain Lube] (http://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Bicycle-4-Ounce-Squeeze/dp/B002IDZXRM/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting)
  
  
• [Genuine Innovations CO2 Inflator] (http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Innovations-G2628-Ultraflate-Inflator/dp/B002AGI1QW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420015344&sr=8-1&keywords=innovations+co2+inflator)
  
  If you're looking to up your riding game, everything listed above will save you from any trouble you have on the road. Cycling computer is always neat to have too!
  
  Cygolite Metro 400 and the Hotshot are brilliant. The lights definitely pack a strong punch. I'll tell you right now, unless the lighting in your town sucks ass or you go off road riding, the metro 400 is a great light and you don't really need to go much higher than that.
  

I recommend checking out /r/bikecommuting. Although it sounds like you have already been commuting by bike, so I apologize if you already know what I'm saying. I'm assuming because you are asking about what you wear for winter cycling that you do not regularly commute in winter/have a short commute.

You will need to get lights for commuting, especially as winter approaches (assuming that you are in the Northern hemisphere). I have the Cygolite Expillion 350 and the PDW Danger Zone. I once read that a blinking rear light is good for being noticed but a solid light is good for driver depth perception, so my helmet has a red light in back that I keep solid in the evening/night. I will eventually get a second real rear light.

As for clothing - what is your climate going to look like this winter? I was commuting in upstate New York and wore generic winter running tights, wool socks, UA coldgear shirt, a down vest, gloves, and a thin scarf that went around my neck and over my head under my helmet. When I wore thick wool mittens over my gloves, I was toasty in that down to 14 F. I never got goggles/glasses, but they would have been nice when it sleeted.

I don't have any cycling specific wear. I re-purpose what I already have or buy things that will work for multiple activities.

I wash my bike (or at least rinse it off) after any ride where salt from the road was kicked up. Last winter I had a toothbrush and would gently scrub my derailleurs to get off the ice and would use a damp rag to wipe it down. Again, I was biking in upstate New York. I have since moved south and don't yet know what this winter will mean for biking. I'm assuming a lot less ice and a lot less salt.

http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/dp/B005DVA57Y

This is hands down the best rear light out there. There are three or four modes of flashing types and you're able to increase or decrease the tempo of each.

The light is so bright that the red light is visible on the ground behind you.

It's also rechargeable.

They have a mini version too, and it's just as powerful.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005DVA57Y?pc_redir=1406372694&robot_redir=1
http://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/ixon-iq-premium-led-139357?currency=5&delivery_country=191

Little bit more expensive. Same tail light. Better front light. You need a $3 adapter for the plug on the German headlight because it has European plugs.

Does that light work with the Cateye rack mount?

If not, I use a Cygolite Hotshot with the Cygolite rack mount which works really well. The Cygolite is great bang for your buck.

I just bought this Cygolite Metro 360 head light and this Cygolite Hotshot tail light a few days ago. They are well reviewed and seem blindingly bright when I look at them inside. Several different flash modes and are both USB rechargeable.

As for other products which can save your life, a cell phone and a credit/debit card will be useful if you're stranded somewhere. Wearing a Road ID will be helpful to emergency personnel if you're unable to communicate.

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DVA57Y/

I have that one, it's really bright, has a bunch of different blinking patterns, and the battery seems to last quite a while.

Disc racks can work on non-disc brake wheels. I use a Blackburn EX-1 Disc Rack on my bike. My bike does not have the eyelets by the wheel hub for pannier racks, but strangely it does have the eyelets on the seat stay for them. I found this rack works very well on my bike.

For USB rechargeable lights, I use a Cygolite Metro 500 and a Cygolite Hotshot. Both lights are easily removable so you can take them with you when you leave your bike locked up. There are cheaper versions of the Cygolite Metro which are also quite good (300, 360, 400), but not quite as bright. The Metro 300 is probably enough light for most people, and is what I used first. The only reason I switched is because my girlfriend's bike needed a better headlight, so I used that as an excuse to upgrade mine and give her my old one. Currently the 360 is cheaper than the 300 on Amazon, and is brighter. So there's no reason to get the 300 right now.

For multi tool, I like the Topeak Hexus II. Someone else on Reddit recommended it to me months ago and I'm quite satisfied.

For a full time commuter, I recommend some puncture resistant tires. I use Continental Gatorskins with Mr Tuffy liners inside them. Haven't had a single flat in several months now. Having a flat on your way to work would really suck, especially in crappy winter weather.

I use Ortlieb Front Rollers on my rear rack, as I was worried the Back Rollers would be large enough to cause heel strike. The Front Rollers are very nice. I love how easy they are to put on and take off, plus they're quite rugged and keep everything dry. The Front Rollers are just barely large enough for a 15" laptop, though I can't roll the top down well with it in there.

Hope you manage to find it.

Keep an eye out on gumtree / ebay. But there's local markets too, although it'll probably be sold to a mate for a few quid :(

Was it locked up with just the cable lock seen in the photo? If it was, sadly you've learnt the hard way about how poor they are (you can cut them quickly with a simple hand tool).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kXXB8MqTNsU

This is a good enough combo for £20:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kryptonite-Bike-Lock-Flex-Cable/dp/B005YPK8G2

I got this from my lbs for about 50 and I would recommend something similar. A u lock to go through the frame, front wheel and bike rack and a cable to go through the rear wheel. Maybe something like this from amazon. The keys are nice too cause I can just keep one on my keyring.

The shape of the frame seems like it could be a complication, not just for locking it up with a u-lock, but also with attaching a bracket to carry the lock while riding. For example, this lock comes with a mounting bracket that seems designed for road bikes.

Buy a U-lock for around $50 (Krypotnite or Abus)

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463060715&sr=8-2&keywords=kryptonite+lock+combination

http://www.amazon.com/Abus-Ultimate-Combopack-Cable-Diameter/dp/B009VUBH0C/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1463060745&sr=8-5&keywords=u+lock+abus

The most importan thing when locking - make sure one wheel and the frame (not the fork) of the bike are inside the U-lock. Ideally, whatever you're locking to is also inside the U-lock. However, sometimes this is not possible. The cable is used to attach the other wheel to the u-lock as well. In the situation where your frame, wheel, and object you're locking to cannot fit inside the U-lock - use the cable to lock around the tree/pole, etc. and keep the u-lock on your bike/wheel.

I purchased this one from Amazon, I've only needed to use it a couple of times but it has some really solid reviews.

It's probably an Airzound.

Ya, i don't understand the "get off the road" mentality that people have. But if you want to have some fun with them (and also probably get your ass kicked in the process) bring one of these with you.

Get one of these next time.

1. Airzound. It mounts to your bars, a bottle holds the compressed air and goes in your wsterbottle cage. 115db horn. Can be purchased many places, but here is where I got it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ACAMJC/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_awdo_wfksDb98VW2V7
   
   
2. Yes, often the framerates, passing speeds, angle, water drops on the lense, etc can render the few frames of the plate being visible as unreadable. Letters can be harder to define after the fact. Usually in all the whole plate, but ibwas trying to read the trucks plate before the trailer passed. I was also gassed as I had just been sprinting. Note the speedometer... this is added afterwards using GPS data.
   Learn your phonetic alphabet as well. I'll typically call it out quick then phonetically "A, B, C; 1, 2, 3, 4... Alpha - Bravo - Charlie".
   
   
3. Yes, rear camera tells more of the story. How close was the car, how fast did they come up on you, how close were they, how long were they behind you?
   By mounting it rear facing off of your bars at an angle like mine is, it also shows perspective of close passes. It captures the rider (me), my bike, road position and the overtaking vehicles pisiton. Sometimes it can also capture the drivers face, but usually angle/glare dont yield good results on this.
   I like to have my 7 on my helmet so that if I look at someone, it looks where I do (like when I stopped to try to educate this gentleman.)
   
   
4. You didn't ask, but hey... I always try to control my temper and be respectful. My purpose is to attempt to educate the driver as to why I was riding like I was, and give some insight. Usually that fails, but ocassionslly I get through to someone. That makes it worth it.

This should solve your problem...

http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

Ugh. For as crappy as a lot of our cycling infrastructure is, I'm glad that bike lanes here in most U.S. cities are in the street. Cars don't randomly run into your lane or decide that the bike lane is the appropriate place to do qi gong exercises (WTF is wrong with you folks in Chinatown?!).

For dealing with people who are inappropriately in the bike lane, I have found this to be invaluable. Scares the hell out of people.

And an Airzound horn when a bell isn't loud enough. I started off with just an Airzound, but it scares the shit out of pedestrians and isn't really appropriate if you only want to announce your presence, so I bought this bell for $9 and save my horn for people with headphones, people blocking the path who don't react to the bell, and cars. The bell is very elegant, and most people seem to recognize two quick bell rings as a bicycle approaching. Yelling is still better than risking an accident by silently zooming by a pedestrian or cyclist who has no idea you're coming, but my rides are more pleasant with the bell.

> Buy a loud cycle horn.

Airzound!!!

Try an AirZound. They're refillable too.

Though they don't fit on all handlebars so that may be a factor.

Went a whole year of being car-free since the car was broken and didn't get around to getting it fixed. Got it fixed and now it's broken again. This time going car free until I can afford to buy a new one.

Must have equipment:
Fenders
Lights (front and rear), especially with winter and early dark coming in.
A trailer. I use a schwinn 2-kid trailer with the kid part pulled down off the cross-bar.
Rain Gear. Here in the Pacific Northwest, this can make or break your car-free experiment. It's much easier to get on the bike in a rainy day when you have it.
My Delta Airzound air horn. Nothing makes cars look faster than when you honk back!

Other than those, i switch panniers and backpacks depending on what I need at the time. I have foldable baskets, small bags, big bags, waterproof bags, trunk bags, handlebar bags, front rack, rear rack... You kind of end up collecting gear after a while of just being a bike commuter.

>zoom past you and cut you off taking a right

Yep. The infamous "right-hook".

>Get a loud horn

Air Zound, yo.

I'm just going to leave this here:

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Hooter-Rechargeable/dp/B000ACAMJC

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Bike-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

I've had some close calls. You can see in the stats that isn't particularly safe but I enjoy it and do my best. I got one of these for my bike and it helps to blast cabs and j walkers. much more effective than a bell, which I still use for passing etc

Surely this is a better option, given that it doesn't require batteries.

> 80db at 50cm. That's loud!!!

I don't think that the person writing that sentence has any idea how loudness is measured... because that's not loud. Usually dB is measured at 1m for a start, so that horn is only 74dB at 1m. A bit louder than a vacuum cleaner, but not necessarily as loud as normal traffic, if you believe this scale.

For comparison, this one is 115dB-

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Hooter-Rechargeable/dp/B000ACAMJC


That's loud!!! But the sounds are not as cheeky, I'll admit. :)

Keep fighting the good fight. It might be a bit dickish if the lane wasn't so clearly marked.

For other crusaders, How about an Airzound? I've got one, and it is shit your pants loud.

An Airzound Bike Horn

Can't believe no one mentioned the airzound. $30 bucks. Basically a metal container that you fill with air (using a bike pump) and you have a air horn attached to the other end. Its the size of a water bottle and comes with mounts so its easy to install on a bike.Saved my ass many times and I've had it for years. On the horn itself, there's a pressure modulator so you can adjust how loud you want it to be. It's much louder than a car horn so if you're using it around people I suggest lowering it a bit, but it's perfect for places like the Brooklyn Bridge where people get in the path and biking up 8th Ave.

Edit: it's actually on sale so I would jump on this offer if I didn't have one already.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ACAMJC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483767526&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=airzound&dpPl=1&dpID=4142OBsQHPL&ref=plSrch


I can post pics of my setup if anyone's interested.

A lot of hand pumps are tough to get skinny tire pressures, but I've had really good luck with the Road Morph. The nice little hose lets you put the thing on the ground and pump against the ground like a little floor pump. 110psi no problem.

http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Road-Morph-Bike-Gauge/dp/B000FI6YOS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370837529&sr=8-1&keywords=topeak+road+morph

I really like this pump I bought last year to mount on my frame. Good balance of compactness and utility, it has a pressure gauge, and the presta/schrader adapter stays in the pump in either configuration so I don't have to worry about losing extra parts.

I got this rack off of amazon, and used some old panniers that my dad had.

As for fenders, just go to your LBS and they will set you up. I honestly don't know what kind of fenders that I have, but hey, they work.

My commute is pretty short, a little over 2 miles each way, and I have never had any issues with it.

I used to have this problem but then I put one of these on my bike.

On my large size Giant Escape 3, I have a Topeak Explorer MTX: http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-63107030-Explorer-Bike-Rack/dp/B000FIE3WI
I didn't shop around much, though, that's just what the LBS had in stock.

I did the install myself and it was pretty straightforward. The only tricky part was that you have to bend the front rails of the rack down to meet up with the seatstay mounting bolts, and make sure the rails give clearance for the "noodle" part of the rear brake.

I did backpack for a while too, and got this rack and a cheap pannier and have never looked back.

I have upgraded my pannier to something really nice, but not in scope for a commuter. 40 litre seems quite big for commuting. Might want to consider leaving the shoes at work, and the ULock, and perhaps bring in closes for several days, to cut down on weight and volume.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Explorer-Rack-Without-Spring-Black/dp/B000FIE3WI/ref=asc_df_B000FIE3WI/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312070810048&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10069077748661583872&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029706&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-381714914542&psc=1

I recently bought a Giant Escape 2 for commuting from Arlington to Downtown DC and it works great, I got the bike and lock for less than $500. If you want to look at bikes, Papillion Bicycles is the local Giant dealer and Spokes etc. is one of the local Trek and Specialized dealers. You can go and ride the bikes and see what you like, but at that price point almost all the hybrid bikes are the same.

After that I got a Topeak rear rack with this Trunk Bag and it works great, fits my computer, clothes and even lunch. It has side panniers that fold out. I would recommend that you get some cygolite front and rear lights from amazon as well.

If you're serious about commuting, something along these lines is your best bet.

[Here is my setup] (http://imgur.com/gallery/IBw0q)

Edit: Word

Most/any rack will likely be fine. I have a Topeak explorer tubular rack, it wasn't very costly and has held up well for the last four years or so I've been using it on my daily commutes.

Also my favorite upgrade was the rear rack. I stopped having the back sweat patch from backpacks.

Explorer Rack Without Spring, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FIE3WI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_16VXCbPYK7JYQ

That's a bike rack, not a seat. Here's the amazon link:

http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-63107030-Explorer-Bike-Rack/dp/B000FIE3WI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1346624054&sr=8-3&keywords=bike+rack

Yeah a good rack and panniers will go a long way. I picked one of these up on sale for $20 bucks, and matched it with one of the MTX bags. Super convenient for commuting, since you barely notice the weight when it's over your back wheel.

Tube

Levers

Frame pump (or alternatively CO2 inflator)

Patch kit (optional)

Saddle bag

You can use the levers to mount the tire as well, in fact I don't think I could do it without them on some really tough tires. You basically use it like a wedge. Stick the hook on the rim of the wheel, with the tool under the tire, and lift up.

I don't know how well it'd work with the ones he posted, I'm more used to ones that look like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Pedros-Bicycle-Tire-Lever-Pair/dp/B000IZGFCE/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1322857939&sr=1-3

The chain...maybe.

> Hexagon shaped, triple heat treated chain withstands 11 tons of cutting force.

That's a meaningless description without knowing the alloy and link diameter, but it looks fairly beefy in the picture.

The weak point is the small U-lock that it also uses. It's 1/2" (12-13mm), which is the same as regular Bike U-locks. At that point I'd rather have the one designed for bikes, is significantly lighter, and can be frame mounted easily.

The only potential upside I see is "security through obscurity". It may be different enough from other bike locks that thieves skip it because they don't know how to attack it quickly.

The absolute best thing you can do is just get renter's insurance. Mine is $10 a month and covers everything I own, including my bike.

You can also upgrade to the "New York" Strength Kryptonite lock, which is far stronger, at the cost of being massive and hard to carry. Just ignore the Kryptonite warranty, it's pretty useless. It costs quite a bit for a low level of coverage and requires sending back the broken lock which usually gets taken with the bike.

Kryptonite locks. The prices on Amazon are cheaper but $134 is the price you would pay in a bike shop.

Maybe call the local police station and describe your situation to them and see if they can help? Or find a local hardware store and buy the tools to get your bike back. OR, buy a higher end bike lock. After having my bike stolen I got a Kryptonite Fahgettaboudit (2 years ago) and use it everyday in all sorts of weather conditions, it hasn't given me any problems yet. I think carrying bolt cutters is a little overkill, but I haven't done much bike touring, so really don't know.

that is a little better than using a giant u-lock but i'd hate to ride all over town with a giant chain. ideally a smaller u lock for normal use, and then carry a chain for when you think you might have issues locking it up or leave that somewhere you will be locking it frequently. the onguard beast chain seems to be the go to and comes with a lock as well, and as far as i know the kryponite NYFU is still the best lock on the market though it is expensive.

honestly just get as good of a u-lock you can afford if you have reasonable access to bike racks, or get the chain setup if you are wrapping around posts or trees. anything is defeatable, your best bet is to make yours harder than someone else's lock and hope for the best.
http://forums.roadbikereview.com/commuting-touring-ride-reports/boltcutter-proof-locks-276407.html
http://www.lfgss.com/thread17938.html

You're welcome! They send you a bright blue non-removable sticker to put on your bike, identifying it as registered with the police. Could be an additional deterrent, who knows.

Locking: Sturdy U-Lock (like the New York Fahgettaboudit) through the frame & rack, sturdy cable lock (I have this one) through the wheels and secured to your U-lock. Locks are still only a deterrent, but that and locking in a highly visible location could be enough. At least, I've had luck with it. Knocks on wood

Cable locks keep honest people honest. Consider something like this or this.

Locally The Bike Shop has them for $119.99 (Bow Cycle also has them for $129.99)

Amazon.ca has them for $100.95 (I have Amazon Prime so 2 day shipping is free for me, I don't know what it would be normally)

I had a bike that was 8 years old and in perfect condition. After a bad biking accident, I had stored it away for several years. It held a lot of memories of times that I had spent with my father; we rode bikes together almost every day for years before my parents divorced.

I finally got it back out, thinking riding to and from campus would be a great way to ease back into cycling. I got a cable lock and parked it in a patrolled deck. I rode it 3 times to campus, and on the 3rd time, it was stolen. I was totally, completely heartbroken. The cops who were supposed to be patrolling the deck were all huddled up BSing with each other. One came to take a report from me. He scoffed at me when I told him I had a cable lock, not a U-lock and told me I'd never see my bike again.

It's a shitty lesson, and it still bums me out pretty fucking badly that someone stole something so special to me. I know it was my own fault for not securing my bike properly, but I didn't realize how rampant bike theft is, especially in the city.

So, I feel your pain. It sucks to have something stolen and I'm sorry that you had to experience this. I immediately went out and bought this lock and am looking into some other locks for my wheels and seat.

If your landlord agrees to you storing your bike inside, I'd recommend this for storage. It's a real space saver in an apartment.

Good luck!

https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-997986-Fahgettaboudit-U-Lock-Black/dp/B000OZ9VLU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481948659&sr=8-1&keywords=kryptonite+new+york+u+lock

Can only be broke for the hacksaw in a very long time or an angle grinder. We could save it leaves never have angle grinders, but really only professionals do. And they are you really going after cheap bikes.

I'd recommend 2 locks. That way a thief has to have a way to beat both.

I have the New York Fahgettaboudit Mini u-lock and abus granit steel-o-flex.

For when my bike is at home I have this bastard. I'm aware it's overkill (10kg for chain and lock) the links are as big as my hand...

I wouldn't get a brooks. They are pricey because they become super comfortable after some use, but the downside is that they are theft magnets. If you get one, lock your saddle with a cable, or take it in with you, but these things go missing on my campus all the time. I'd just ride the stock for a while, when you want to upgrade, go into your LBS and nab one from them.




As for locks, U-lock+Cable in conjunction will be best. If you pick one, do a u-lock. Kryptonite is well-recommended. They have a few models:

The New York is the big boy, nigh indestructible lock. But probably not necessary for a windsor the hour.

Here's what I use, but I sort of regret it. It feels cheaper (because it was cheaper) than other kryptonite locks I've used. The lock itself is fine, but I have trouble with my key after a few months of use (have to jiggle it around for a bit for it to disengage). If you're on a campus or in a smaller town, it'd be fine.

Just ordered this. My buddy has one and it's brilliant. Super light and small (smallness is actually a benefit as far as security). Can fit in your back pocket.

Also: http://sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html

Man that sucks.

I use this heavy ass lock. A hacksaw can still cut through it, but it takes more time.

I also use this cable to secure my quick-release front wheel.

There's no sure way to secure your bike, all you can do is use good locking stratagy. Lock it to something solid in a well lit place where people are more likely to notice a theif with a saw or bolt cutters.

I have two bikes, one I bought from Century Cycles, and another I got off craigslist for super cheap. The one from craigslist is my favorite, and there were a ton more on there that I loved. The one I got on craigslist goes for around $700 brand new, but I got it from the guy for I think around $280ish.

I also live in an apartment, and I bought one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UUEF7E/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 holds both bikes just fine, and they are both large sizes (for someone around my height - 6' 2")

EDIT: also get yourself a nice bike lock: http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-997986-Black-Fahgettaboudit-U-Lock/dp/B000OZ9VLU/ref=sr_1_4?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1374593601&sr=1-4&keywords=bike+lock

May I suggest: http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Fahgettaboutit-Bicycle-U-Lock-6-Inch/dp/B000OZ9VLU/

I use these for front and rear lights.

This is the most common u-lock that is about as good as it gets. I use this, but the weight is pretty intense.

Yeah, even better together. Though I see a slightly different combo used by the truly maniacal riders:

http://www.mec.ca/product/4013-597/samui-air-zound-cycling-horn/

and

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-997986-Black-Fahgettaboudit-U-Lock/dp/B000OZ9VLU/

That's why I have one of these guys.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000OZ9VLU/

Not all uLocks are created equal. You should definitely make sure to be using one that is highly rated.

For exmaple, the New York Fahgettaboudit U-Lock

This morning my Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit U-Lock that secures my motorcycle decided to not unlock. The key enters the lock cylinder smoothly, and turns very lightly (too lightly?).

Pics of the setup

YT video of attempt to unlock

Any ideas? This is the heaviest U-lock I could find (18 mm hardened shackle). I'm at a loss for how to defeat it short of an angle grinder and I fear it'll just eat grinding wheels.

I've emailed Kryptonite after reading their support site but don't expect a response. It appears that this is a fairly common occurrence after Googling around.

Anyone stolen their own bike before and have ideas of how to liberate mine?

I just bought biking shoes (Shimano with SDP compatibility). I was hoping for some advice on which pedals to get. I'm looking at lower/cheaper end pedals (such as this one, another one, or another, or finally this one).

I have a road bike, and am looking for double sided pedals that I can use with both my clip in shoes and my regular shoes. Do you have any advice?

Thanks in advance :)

2011 Salsa El Mariachi. List of specs here. The only upgrade I made was clipless pedals. I love this bike and I'd be happy to answer any questions about it though I admit I'm a bit of an MTB newb.

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-M520L-Sport-Pedals-Cleats/dp/B000WYAENC/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1310767731&sr=1-1

free ship w/ amazon

People downvote me because I'm a little weird, but some of these are good, they have the capacity of being clipless, but still having the option of using regular shoes if you feel like it. If you want to save the weight and use only clipless these are good, they're simple clipless pedals, both are rather inexpensive, and if you feel like spending more money

To answer your first question in terms of areas where bike theft happens more, I'd just say avoid areas that are hidden or away from every day pedestrian traffic. Don't lock it up in an alleyway that people never go down.

I have a bike that is about the same price as yours. I've been commuting all over Columbus for five years now and I've never had my bicycle stolen.

I would HIGHLY suggest that you get a good u-lock. That's all you really need. If you're concerned about someone running off with your wheels you can also get one of the u-locks that also have the cable for your wheels. Here is the U-Lock that I bought I've had that lock the entire time and I've had no issues with it.

Also, make sure you lock it to something sturdy. Preferably a good bike rack that you can get your bike lock through the frame of your bike. I prefer to lock it through the back wheel and the and the top bar that goes from the seat post to the back wheel.

Also final word of advice is definitely do not leave your bicycle out over night.

Additional stuff. If you have any stuff on your bicycle, like a light (you should probably get one if you plan on riding at night, and get a nice 550 lumen one), make sure you take them off when you've locked your bike up.

I'd opt for a combination of a D-lock and a cable lock, such as this Kryptonite set. The D-lock is passed through the frame, rear wheel and bike rack, and the cable is looped through the front wheel and connected to the D-lock.

You can get a good u lock and cable for about $40 in the US. If you are not in a high theft area like New York City I would go with this lock and cable. https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2 Or this one. https://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-Double-Team-PITBULL-U-Lock-Cable/dp/B005YPKBWI Lock the back wheel and frame with the u lock and the front wheel with the cable. The onguard locks are also a good deal. The higher security ones are relatively cheap compared to abus and kyrptonite, but they are heavy and probably overkill unless you are in a high theft area.

If you are in NY, SF, DC and you plan on locking it up unattended I would get two onguard brute locks, or two other locks that have to be cut twice. The locks are thick enough that an angle grinder or very large boltcutters are needed to break the lock. It would require a thief to use an angle grinder and cut at least 4 times to steal the bike. It is hard to get the right positioning to cut that many times and no one is going to that much trouble for a cheap hybrid bike when there are much easier and more valuable targets.

>Ask me how I know.

>/u/ I_AM_AN_FBI_AGENT

Must be an intern if they gave you the shitty job?

I use a Kryptonite U-lock for the frame/backwheel and a ~10mm cable that runs inside both wheels and the seat column. I'll look into buying one of those heavyass chains to add it to the u-lock. Thanks for the tips.

cc: /u/matt_the_hat

here you go dude and/or dudette:

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html


I would stay away from that coil lock, as it can be snipped in about 10 seconds or less.

I use this combo for a $1300 bike:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005YPK9VQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This may also work for you at a lower price:
https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498851267&sr=8-1&keywords=u+lock

1. Lights yes. Drivers here suck. Pedestrians here suck. Hell, most of the other cyclists on campus and around Berkeley suck too if I'm going to be honest... You want everyone to see you, and you also want to be able to see, especially the potholes and pedestrians.
   
   It's winter so lights are a super worthy investment, especially because they last a long time and you'll be able to use them for years before you run into battery/durability issues.
   
   You don't really need the lock posted in the comment you replied to. I mean I have one myself and all, but I don't carry it normally because the value of my campus commuter isn't worth the weight of the lock (that bitch is heavy.) I only use it if I happen to want to ride one of my nicer bikes around, or if I'm going to be parking my bike at the BART station or downtown for a whole day- that kind of thing.
   
   IMO the Evolution Series 2 U-lock plus the cable is going to be fine for most on campus usage as long as you're not leaving the bike unattended for a whole day, or overnight. Biggest thing when locking up is doing it properly. Make sure the u-lock gets the frame and your rear wheel both, and use your cable for the front.
   
   
2. It's a pretty meh choice. A popular bikesdirect road bike is the Windsor Wellington, but I wouldn't recommend it either. The money you save on the bike itself is not worth the frustration from riding a poorly assembled and adjusted bike. You'd pay $100 at any of the local shops to have them assemble and adjust it anyway, and riding an improperly adjusted bike is an un-fun PITA. Doing the assembling and adjusting yourself is "easy" but doing it right takes some tools you may not have, and some finesse that takes a while to learn. That being said, the cheapest road bike from one of the LBSs (Local Bike Shops) here will run you at least upper 600s IIRC, so take your pick.
   
   If you think you'll be riding regularly though, as transportation and recommendation, I highly recommend you go with an LBS option because people who know what they're talking about will guide you through your choices.

IIRC Target does not sell any good locks. Buy one online or at your LBS. I have a Kryptonite 2 and it has saved my bike at least a couple times. Maybe later I will post the picture of someones failed attempt to hacksaw through it.

With proper locking technique you shouldn't have to worry during a 30 minute errand, especially if you locked the bike in a place that is well traffic'd and well lit, though I never leave my bike outside overnight if I can help it.

i think im gonna follow ur suggestions, ty.

u think this is a fine lock for a relatively cheap bike ?

https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482028755&sr=8-1&keywords=kryptonite
tyvm

also, i have a bike right now, i bought it for like $50 a few years back, but it seems too small. like, the frame is too small and the seat is too low down, so its really difficult for me to ride. the times ive ridden it to the gym it was the worst leg day of my life because i get so sore riding it, and i'm pretty sure it shouldn't be like that. i need a bigger frame and higher seat, no?

tyvmvmvmvm

I agree with /u/kidsafe on almost all counts. Abus is also a solid brand, I just have more personal experience with Kryptonite. [Here](http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1452236815&sr=1-1& keywords=kryptonite+bike+lock) is my recommendation, and what I personally use

Personally, I'd say stick with a reputable u-lock and pair it with a cable lock for the wheels. A good u-lock oughta require electric rotary tools to get through, and make a ton of noise and take some time. Remember with security locks, it's not a matter of can it be broken but how long it takes.

I like this set: Kryptonite Kryptolok Series 2 Standard Bicycle U-Lock with Transit FlexFrame Bracket (4-inch x 9-inch) with 4-Foot Flex Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_sMdAwb63BQ9BD

A lot of people swear by Kryptonite locks. They have a lot of selections for as little as $25 on Amazon.

Website
https://www.kryptonitelock.com/en/locks-landing/product-details-bicycle.html

U-lock
https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Keeper-Standard-Bicycle-Bracket/dp/B000BL1P3O/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1505834415&sr=8-6&keywords=kryptonite+bike+locks

U-lock with 4' cable
https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-KryptoLok-Bicycle-Lock-Cable/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505834415&sr=8-1&keywords=kryptonite+bike+locks

Here are some links:

http://thesweethome.com/reviews/best-bike-lock/

http://www.streetfilms.org/hal-and-kerri-grade-your-bike-locking/

The sweethome recommends the Kryptonite Series 2 package deal which you can get for $32+S&H (also note students can get Amazon prime free for six months).

The second video is a guy from NYC rating people's locking of their bikes. Which is really worth watching, a lot of the time it is more that people don't lock their bikes properly than having a bad lock.

But as Sweethome says if your bike is less than $1K then just use the Kryptonite Series 2.

If it is >$1K then they reccomend the NYC Kryptonite Series. Which is $75 at amazon.

I ride fulltime and find that so long as it's a stable bar to lock to (shake it to make sure it's connected at the base on both ends), and you have a cable and u-lock (don't skimp, get a Kryptonite) then you should be in great shape in most parts of the city. The only times I've been nervous, I've been able to find a lock spot within eyeshot of the place I'm going to. I do not lock up my bike for more than about 3-4 hrs in one spot.

When in doubt, ask the business if there's better options for your bike. I once went to lock up outside of Cooper's Hall, and a business owner neighbor let me know Cooper's had bike parking inside because that area is especially prone people stealing things.

DO make sure your bike serial number and pictures are on your phone and with the registry in the horrible case that it does walk off!
Edit: commas, added advice

This method is probably the best all-round:
http://www.802bikeguy.com/2011/07/the-modified-sheldon-brown-bike-locking-strategy/

I don't live in a particularly high crime area so I don't carry my cable usually, just a long shackle U-lock since I also don't live in an area with particularly great bike racks.

For quasi-anonymity, would it be possible to not state where I go to school?

If so, I'm on my second year as a transfer student in animal science. I love animals and I love caring for and spending time with them, so this degree will allow me to be paid for doing what I love. Some possible career options would allow me to be able to work with animals and people, helping them to have a mutually beneficial relationship.

I walk every day to school because my bike lock rusted out and I don't trust that my lockless bike on campus would be there when I returned. I would enter for a lock for my bike so I can have either a few more minutes of study or sleep, depending on the day. Thank you for the contest. =)

It's a not very good ulock but I'd take the first one over the cable lock. This is the basic entry level lock I recommend. The problem with cable locks is small wire cutters (pliers sized) can nibble through them in a short time frame. Or bolt cutters can instantly cut them. I wouldn't bet that the ulock you posted above would stand up to small to medium bolt cutters either.

The kryptonite ulock I linked will stand up to most bolt cutters (I think I've seen a video of some one getting through one with a pair of 4 foot bolt cutters). Thats big enough to be obvious and uncommon in my area.

my hub dyno lights are integrated, so I'll skip past those

• pearl izumi thermal light glove - good enough for all but the three or four hottest months of the year
  
  
• $2 headband from home depot it even has a little hole for a ponytail!
  
  
• 1 or 2 ortlieb front rollers, depending on what's being carried
  
  
• kryptonite u-lock - I'm in a low-risk area, so this is enough protection for me.
  
  
• mirricycle incredibell duet - I don't use it often, but when I do it's such a fun sound

Si tu prends ça tu devrais pouvoir résoudre le problème du vol (Pour un vélo normal, pas un truc à 2 000€) .

Thank you everyone, this was super helpful!

Went with this after seeing some of the prices on my way home from work:
http://www.amazon.ca/Kryptonite-Evolution-Bicycle-3-25-Inch-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK9VQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407374232&sr=8-2&keywords=Kryptonite

yes the kryptonite locks come with a long cable to loop through your wheels for for quick releases. I use this one:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kryptonite-Evolution-Mini-7-FlexFrame-Kryptoflex/dp/B005YPK9VQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1468402481&sr=1-3&keywords=Kryptonite

If you register the lock too they will give you money towarda a new bike should the lock be broken and the bike stolen. Double check the terms etc but im sure thats correct. Ive had my lock for about 2 years now!

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-Bicycle-FlexFrame-3-25-Inch/dp/B005YPK9VQ/

http://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-Pitbull-U-Lock-4-Inch-9-06-Inch/dp/B005YPKBWI/

Both are good locks.

Fixed your link

I hope I didn't jump the gun, but you got your link syntax backward! Don't worry bro, I fixed it, have an upvote!

• this one
  
  
  
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awesome, thanks man.

I went ahead and got this http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B005YPK9VQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

So now i have a reg ulock, mini ulock, and the cable. As well as the pinhead nuts in the saddle/front wheel/steering.

Hopefully my bike will now at least be super inconvenient to steal.

I have THIS on my bike. It's obnoxiously bright at its highest setting, and it'll do you well on your night rides on the greenway. I'd see reflective street signs hundreds of yards away light up from this thing. Forget about steal-proof accessories; stuff that you leave on your bike is going to get stolen. I always take my lights with me. It's a bit of a hassle having to install them when I return to my bike (takes less than a minute though), but it's the only way not to get them stolen!

I live in a neighborhood in central San Antonio too! I recently got this guy after my cheap academy set was not cutting it. It is amazing actually, slightly bulky as the battery is a second unit but its still easy to mount and I doubt you could find anything nearly as bright for the price.

$22. https://www.amazon.com/RioRand-Bicycle-HeadLight-Flashlight-Headlamp/dp/B006QQX3C4/

Have you looked at the direct-from-china MagicShine clones? There are quite a few variants out there ranging from "500" to "2300" lumen for not a whole helluva lot of money.

I hear the amazon linked one works pretty well zip-tied to a helmet. Buying 2 (maybe one from a different seller) and mounting one with the wide angle lens on the bars would be a cost effective way to light up everything in front of you.

This one?

For really cold environments this set up can be nice because you can keep your battery warm under your coat. Living in MN It happens that the coldest part of the year is also the darkest and batteries die out as they get cold.

This and this.

I usually run x2 of these, cheap and very bright, with a wide angle diffuser on one.

My unpopular opinion, especially if this is your only bike, is to go fixed. The bike is cheaper/tougher for the money, and less maintenance means better reliability. And for you the rider, it teaches/reinforces proper pedal stroke and ability to hold higher cadence, which translates to your ability to do 50+ mile rides after just a month or so of riding. Something like a Kilo TT Pro with a porter rack is a helluva city beater. I threw some flat bars on mine and its comfy as hell. And with the front rack you can bungee a regular waterproof backpack or whatever and don't have to buy actual panniers. Anyways, just my 2¢

https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Classique-Cargo-Front-Rack/dp/B00B135SSE is this the rack?

Side note: Anyone have any luck painting a rack?
Trying to get it to match my silver/grey back rack

https://imgur.com/a/iadO0TL

It's an Origin8 and then he put a basket on it.

http://www.amazon.com/Classique-Cargo-HD-Front-Rack/dp/B00B135SSE ?
Modular in the sense that you can lash a basket or box to it/hook things onto it.

Pretty lucky to have gotten the bag that’s for sure! Rack is from Origin 8

Origin8 Classique Cargo HD Front Rack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B135SSE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QDNSBbDF7YFCZ

Get a front rack instead. It makes your fixie feel like a Cadillac. Rear racks (imo) make bikes feel sluggish and spongy.

I have this one, but I don't know why it's so expensive now

Get this one, attaches to bolt axle and brake hole

https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Classique-Cargo-Front-Rack/dp/B00B135SSE

It's actually an origin 8 classique hd. I purchased it because it was just like the cetma half rack but way less expensive. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B135SSE?pc_redir=1405364067&robot_redir=1

I have this Origin-8 rack on the front of my Surly Ogre, and it has been amazing. It's just about the same thing for around $55 instead of $140, and it is super sturdy and light.

I got a stand for my birthday recently that was fairly inexpensive as far as I remember. It's not exactly "professional grade" but it's sturdy enough to hold a bike and do some work on it. Little light so it moves around a bit, but like I said it gets the job done. Found it, it's this guy.

Bikehand Pro Mechanic Bicycle/Bike Repair Rack Stand :
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D9B7OKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RPJeAb27Z8MB0

It has really worked great for me, I highly recommend it. Can fold down to store away too.

I got one off Amazon it really surpassed my expectations. Ive had two different bikes on it and it did not fall over. Works for me. It appears youre not in US but nobody replied so figured i would.
https://www.amazon.com/Bikehand-Mechanic-Bicycle-Repair-Stand/dp/B00D9B7OKQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1517619329&sr=8-4&keywords=bike+stand

I have this bike stand,

Venzo Bikehand Pro Mechanic Bicycle/Bike Repair Rack Stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D9B7OKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LMfKBb6584VV5

I dig it.

I don't use a torque wrench. I know I should but everything on the bike is such low torques (speaking from the perspective of someone who works on cars and industrial equipment) that I just make sure everything feels "right" to me... Haven't broken anything or had anything fail on me out on a ride yet... But that doesn't mean you shouldn't get a torque wrench if you want to do it right. As far as torque wrench set go even the expensive ones are cheap compared to the torque wrenches I'm used to using... So cheap/expensive are relative terms. I'd probably buy something mid range with good reviews on Amazon, personally.

$89 stand I bought on Amazon has served me well, including working on a rather heavy e-bike on the regular.

Bikehand Pro Mechanic Bicycle/Bike Repair Rack Stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D9B7OKQ/

I have this one, which is a fair price:

https://smile.amazon.com/Bikehand-Mechanic-Bicycle-Repair-Stand/dp/B00D9B7OKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498229469&sr=8-1

Got it two years ago and I have no complaints

For me, this: https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-PH-1-2-P-Handled-Wrench/dp/B003FPONCI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541802830&sr=8-2&keywords=park+tool+allen+key&dpID=419-T8tUMxL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

​

I was too stingy to buy good allen keys for a very long time because I had a ton of really cheap ones, and the cheap ones did work. But every time I use the ones above, I think: "These were so worth it". I say that to myself every single time.

​

Not a tool, but since someone else mentioned a tire: 200 miles ago I put on some Maxis Hookworms - best commuting tires I ever had. Wow. I had Vee Chinane and then Vee Speedster before - I got flats every other week, none on the hookworms and the hookworms are much more stable on less grippy surfaces either. Every time I reach a place I think: Wow, those are the best tires I ever had.

​

Other tools I use constantly:

- my bike repair stand, i use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Bikehand-Mechanic-Bicycle-Repair-Stand/dp/B00D9B7OKQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1541802939&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=bikehand+bike+stand&psc=1

- my chain link tool: https://www.amazon.com/d/Bike-Shop-Tools/Park-Tool-Master-Pliers-MLP-1-2/B00D9NW32I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541803019&sr=8-1&keywords=park+tool+chain+link+tool

- A good portable multitool with chainbreaker: https://www.amazon.com/d/Bike-Multifunction-Tools/Topeak-Alien-31-Function-Bicycle-Tool/B000FIE4AE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541803074&sr=8-2&keywords=alien+tool

​

​

A decent repair stand. One with quick release clamp and a solid tool tray. Something like this stand would be awesome. It makes doing bike maintenance SO much easier if you have a good stand. I bought a cheap one and I regret it every time I use it.

I have the Bikehand stand as well and overall I'm very happy with it and it's surprising high quality, except for the clamp itself. Mine has not broken yet but if you look on both the Bikehand and the RAD Cycle bike stands you'll see that both of them have plastic (sawtooth) teeth which allow the clamp to rotate when loosened. The clamp itself has no issues but when you're working on the bike and have to put even a slight amount of force on something - even just turning the cranks to get the rear wheel to spin - those teeth will make stress noises. Sooner or later those teeth are going to break. It's a pretty bad design, honestly. Bikehand makes a "pro" version of the stand that has metal teeth instead of plastic teeth but unless the entire clamp area was made of metal instead of plastic I feel that sooner or later something will give. I'm just really careful with my stand. The Park Tool stand must not have that same issue as I've seen videos of people working on their bike in a Park Tool stand and putting all kinds of force on it and the stand seems to take it without any issues.

I bought this one on Amazon and I'm pretty happy with it. I've definitely used better stands than this one, but you can't beat the price. I use it at home for quick jobs like you mentioned and also for cleaning my bikes.

Yup, get the one mentioned above from the seller linked here for $80:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D9B7OKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use it once a week to clean and tune my bike with no failures.

These are roughly equivalent to a car headlight in brightness. Used to use them to go mountain biking at night.

I think it's this one. It isn't $20 though. They're great for the price.

I have like 4 of these. They're super bright and battery lasts a long time. You can find them on eBay every now and then for $20.

Edit: A year ago I switched to a USB version of the light above. I got mine on eBay for $12, but can be found [here](
http://www.lightinthebox.com/zhishunjia-waterproof-3-mode-1xcree-xm-l2-u2-high-power-bike-lamp-900lm-usb-5v-gray-red_p3984844.html?currency=USD&litb_from=paid_adwords_shopping&sku=429_6917) for around the same price. I use it with a USB power bank, like this. I just put the battery pack in my frame bag. I can charge my phone and light my path at the same time if I want. It's really a great setup!

My setup.


Light, get 2: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJZ015Y

Kit for helmet: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QOVA00

Wide angle lens: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004WLCLQY

Put one on your helmet. Put the wide angle lens one on your bars, means when you turn it has less effect on what you can see.

I've had no problem with battery life, but my night rides do tend to be a bit shorter, in the 90 minute range. Use half strength during the climb, full strength on the down.

By far, the best cheap light I’ve found is this one by inbike I got it in a lot of amazon return stuff and I didn’t get the mount with it, so I can’t speak for whatever comes with it. The light runs on 18650 cells which are the way to go imo. Pick up a couple more and wall charger and you’re good to go.

I have a version of this one on a couple bikes as well. Same light just non branded. Bright and rechargeable. One has been coated in mud several times and still works fine.

All lights you purchase will have mounts included with them, look for USB rechargeable lights as opposed to battery operated lights.

On the frame in the rear

Ultra Bright Bike Light Blitzu Cyborg 168T USB Rechargeable Bicycle Tail Light. Red High Intensity Rear LED Accessories Fits On Any Road Bikes, Helmet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015IEJ0GC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_TOF7radLPpoOj

Under the saddle.


LE Super Bright Bike Light, USB Rechargeable Rear Tail Light, Cycling Light, 4 LEDs, 5 Light Modes, Red, Cable Included, Fits on any Bicycles, Helmets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0197X16BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_kdJj4Z6x6Tr61


There are much better lights available, I'm upgrading my front currently. So I don't have a link.
And apologies if the links don't work. Not that tech savvy.

Why lights? Safety. Night or day. Be seen, drivers will pay attention.

What kind of cycling? Mountain biking, road cycling, just commuting? I ride at night all the time, I usually ride to a bar a few times a month. My 10 yo son and I rode to the movies the other night.

Make sure you have a decent light setup. I use an urban 500

https://www.amazon.com/Light-Motion-Urban-500-Headlight/dp/B01F0FCAKW?th=1 for a head light and this rear blinker

https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Intensity-Accessories-Helmets-Flashlight/dp/B015IEJ0GC/ref=sr_1_25_sspa?keywords=amazon+rear+bike+light&qid=1556798034&s=gateway&sr=8-25-spons&psc=1

along with a neon green jacket and two led wheel lights. I find that people actually see me more at night than during the day.

​

I have this setup for my kids https://www.amazon.com/Ascher-Rechargeable-Headlight-Resistant-Included/dp/B01EUQ7ZQG/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_468_bs_lp_t_1/147-0384363-3958821?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=58XK20AREYT4CNVC9WYV

and it's actually really decent.

I use the Cyborg Blitzu ( https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Intensity-Accessories-Helmets-Flashlight/dp/B015IEJ0GC ) with the mount wrapped around my rear Axiom Streamliner rack's flat bridge in the rear (makes sense when you stare at it), and the light oriented vertically. It's probably a bit floppy but it hasn't fallen off or rotated out of position after ~500 miles. No modification needed.

Cheap too, ~$15? Also has excellent side visibility, which is the primary reason I use it.

Here you go:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015IEJ0GC/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=digi1516-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B015IEJ0GC&linkId=f7fc1dcbed92d3ed05d81d708edeab4d

No, one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015IEJ0GC/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ive got a rear and head light by the blitzu company and they work great. Rechargeable, 3 different power settings, flashing and non flashing settings, and a decently long battery life. (6 hours)

Edit: headlight
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015IFA03I/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1506555869&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bicycle+light+blitzu&dpPl=1&dpID=51gyEU3rBNL&ref=plSrch

Taillight
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015IEJ0GC/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1506555869&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bicycle+light+blitzu&dpPl=1&dpID=51D0%2BGi4UaL&ref=plSrch

Hey there! I wish you the best of luck in your training and thanks for the contest!

My item is a bike lock. I'm going to be needing a one come Fall when I start school.

Will this do the job?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kryptonite-Bike-4-Feet-Kryptoflex-Cable/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1466694629&sr=8-2&keywords=bike+lock

Hope you don't mind the questions!

Thanks

Ulock like this

If you're not averse to heading across to Kirkland, this one is a solid option for $50: https://seattle.craigslist.org/est/bik/6172493923.html - 17" should be right for 5'6" and at that price you can add $20 fenders, a $20 rack, $20 in lights (front and rear!) and $40 on a u lock with auxiliary cable - bike theft is pretty rampant in Seattle and campuses are often hit. If everyone around you has sad cable locks and you've got the bother of a u-lock and a cable, your chances of the bike making it through the year in your possession increase greatly. (Hot tips on how to actually lock up once you have said lock - http://www.sfbike.org/resources/theft-locking/ )

Alternate options: https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/6164879482.html - up in shoreline and $155 but this Specialized Hardrock should be a good fit at 16" and still has a bit in the budget for a rack/fenders/lock/lights. Plus it looks to be in good shape.

I'm going to assume Philadelphia is a lot like NYC ( where I live) when it comes to bike theft, so I will give you the same advice I give people that move here. Get a Kryptonite u lock. This one is the absolute cheapest that you can go with, but you'd be mush safer going with this. Lock thought the front wheel and frame. I would suggest getting at least a cable lock for the back wheel. Anything quick release will be stolen unless locked down. Best to replace anything that is quick release. No locking method is 100%. Whatever lock you have, there is a tool that can break it. The only thing you can do is not make it worth the effort. So don't go locking up a super nice bike. Lock it whenever you're out of arms length. If someone jumps on it and goes, you'll never catch it.

I got this and so far it works well
https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1498956005&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=kryptonite+u+lock&psc=1

Road bikes are great lighter the easier it is to ride, it might be worth getting slime tyres to stop punctures, I have a triangle bag that goes inside the frame that I put a small pump and a multi tool in + my lunch on a weekday.

I would recommend two thick D locks to use when parking, I thread the 'D' through the bag buckles and keep the keys and lock in the Bag.

for weather gear you need a rain layer warm layer and sweat layer to keep out the cold. waterproof gloves, goggles or eye protection.

Fenders would be a good choice as well to stop mud flicking up.

Don't get a mountain bike, really not very easy to ride and heavy. Also lights

Yeah, they're definitely more 'theft deterrence' than theft proof. Basically whatever makes your bike less appealing to steal than the cable locked one next to it. Generally Kryptonite locks are well regarded, but the price reflects that. They'll have different ratings for 'medium theft' and 'high theft' areas. Vancouver's generally 'high'. This isn't their highest $100+ style lock but it's nice because it comes with a cable you can use to secure the wheels if they're quick release - http://www.amazon.ca/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2 For reference, because locks are only useful if used correctly, this is a handy guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ryY-qMFLcfo

You'll be fine with a cheaper set. I would recommend this cable+u-lock set for $35: http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372711242&sr=8-1&keywords=u-lock

> u think this is a fine lock for a relatively cheap bike ?
> https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482028755&sr=8-1&keywords=kryptonite tyvm
>

My girlfriend has this lock, the biggest flaw in it is that the lock only engages on one side, that means only one cut is required to remove the lock. Compared to the Kryptonite New York which engages on both sides, which means a thief would need to cut both sides of the shackle to remove the lock.

I use the cryptoflex cables in conjunction with the D-lock...

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kryptonite-Bike-4-Feet-Kryptoflex-Cable/dp/B005YPK8G2

I have a 4 foot one for securing my front wheel and saddle and a 9 foot one (kept in my trailer) for securing my cargo trailer when out and about with it...

Happened to me two weeks ago. Brooks saddle gone by green Park. So I've now got a third lock for my bike just for my seat. This lock

All in all a general pain

I'm pretty sure Kazoo is making a joke about stealing my new bike, lol. So I'm not giving you that info.

But this is the lock I used: Kryptonite KryptoLok Series 2 Standard Heavy Duty Bicycle U Lock with 4ft Flex Bike Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UyYUCb50VK507

I'm sure there are better locks, but it seemed to make the bikes next to mine look more attractive to thieves than mine was (when I used it!). I always put the front wheel, frame, and whatever I was locking to through the U and then ran the cable through my rear wheel.

You should invest in one of these buddy. Highly recommended for that sweet bike you got.

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426711864&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=kryptomite+bike+lock

Right now? This bicycle helmet: http://www.amazon.com/Lenox-Summer-Helmet-Magenta-Medium/dp/B005XSWHHI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=17MJGPKXODNO7&coliid=I1SULGABL61G84&psc=1

and this bike lock set: http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=17MJGPKXODNO7&coliid=IZMJDZ2K4SVSV

Gotta protect your bikes and your brains!

I just got the most reviewd one on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005YPK8G2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My bike is a $800 Century 1 --- so not TOP tier but still enough to definitely be worried about...

This Kryptonite lock is what we had for both bikes. Note: They pulled the metal brackets the lock was attached to out of the wall to get the bikes. There is another bike wheel secured with the same lock hanging from one of the brackets - but the cable securing the frame was cut and the bike is gone.

So while I'll be the first to acknowledge that no lock will keep thieves away, in this case, the lock was enough of a deterrent that they felt it easier to physically rip off the the structure of the building it was attached to.

This is the one I use. It has metal keys. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B005YPK8G2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

After quite a lot of research, I've taken the plunge on buying a road bike for general use after not riding a bike in like a decade... Decided to splurge on a B'Twin Triban 500SE (shop link that'll probably inevitably break), rather than deal with the hassle of trying to find a second hand bike locally and deal with potential repairs etc. And of course for my own personal vanity of liking minimalist designs, the bike's look is perfect for me, I'm not the biggest fan of the more traditionally bright decals etc.

It'll be the first nice bike I've had as well, I had a massive mountain bike thing when I was a teenager but never used it off-road, considering I'm a slender fellow it weighed a tonne and wasn't much fun to use. It'll be interesting to see what a light road bike will be like. Can't wait for it to arrive! :D

I've been trying to make sure I don't forget any of the essential accessories I'll be needing. So far I've ordered these:

• Multi-tool
  
• Puncture Repair Kit
  
• Mini-pump
  
• D-Lock with a cable loop
  
• Helmet
  
  Things I need to look at:
  
  
• Lights Bought a NiteRider Solas and Lezyne Super Drive XL for lights.
  
• Oil
  
• Cover (since there's barely any room in my flat, might have to sort something out if I'm not using the bike often in Winter or something).
  
  Is there any other essentials I'm missing? I imagine there might be a lot of tiny things that I'm missing, stuff like reflectors.
  
  Also recommendations for the stuff I'm missing will be appreciated, I just bought some good rated stuff off Amazon, no idea if the reviews are completely wrong, I know they can be for some products I'm more versed in.
  
  Also any tips for someone's first ride in a while, and especially first time on drop handles? I've done some basic research on how to hold the bars and use the Microshift gear levers, but I'm sure there's little tips that might help.
  

A very good lock (the one I use daily) is the Kryptonite Mini. It is a bit short, you won't lock your bicycle around lamp posts with this, only a bit thinner. However that gives the lock more strength and makes it a bit harder for thieves to wedge tools inside.

If you want a larger lock Kryptonite makes A variety of others, I would recommend This one, a friend of mine rides with that, but it is a bit on the heavy side.

For years I used this lock in the high theft areas of SLC with my 1000$ road bike. Zero issues or problems. I'm fairly sure that after the BIC pen hack on older model Kryptonite these became the gold standard. Ive seen people that can crack them with a good car jack or grinder but i think the meth heads look for easier targets and lack that equipment.

Should i get a multi-gear or fixed gear if i'm only going to use for commuting?

what's a good lock? is this a good one?


Sorry, but i really am a noob when it comes to bicycles.

As a college student at an extremely bicycle friendly university, this is the U-lock that I use.

I was just reading this review on Amazon and it looks like that lock can be cut with bolt cutters. I'd go for the higher end kryptonite locks, like this one

1.21 gigawatts

Ill be spending my weekend with my girlfriend looking at the apartment we'll be moving in together in

I just bought this kryptonite u-lock and cable from amazon. I feel comfortable leaving my bike alone. It's not an expensive bike ($200 bike from kijiji) but I love it and I mostly lock it up downtown. The only thing I don't love about it, is it's heavy/awkward to carry. I keep it in my backpack, but if it slides to a side, my whole backpack slides too. But I really don't mind since it's probably that weight that makes it so secure

Recomendas qual? Estava a ponderar este que só prende uma roda ou este que já tem um cabo para prender o selim da bicicleta ou roda da frente

Yeah I really like it, it's single speed though (but not fixed gear) which may turn some people off. But it's easier to take care of myself than a geared bike is.

In most cases you'll be fine leaving it outside during the day for a few hours. If you have lights, you'll probably want to get in the habit of taking them with you though when you lock it up.

When you do lock up, you're gonna want one of these Kryptonite locks to lock the frame to the post and the bendy chain thing to wrap around the wheel and the U-lock. You could also get these Pinhead locks to lock your tires in a set it and forget it sort of way. You can get these at most bike shops.

I don't know anything about bike alarms. The key to not getting your bike stolen is don't be lazy about it.

Would something like this suffice?

Yeah, definitely go with a solid U-lock. Cable locks can be cut in less than 30 seconds. I recommend the Kryptonite Mini-7 w/ cable or the Kryptonite New York u-locks. They both come with theft insurance (provided you register the locks and the bikes they'll be locking within 15 days of purchase).

Edit: or check out the gear Wiki

I use this Kryptonite lock in SF, but 75% of the time I don't have the cable with me. I do have security skewers though. The lock is smaller but will secure the back wheel to parking meters and leaves minimal space.

I agree and I disagree. There's two kinds of bikes that get stolen. Really expensive ones and everything else. If you have an expensive one and someone wants it, there isn't a u lock in the world (or at least available retail) that will save it from 15 minutes out on the streets. But most people don't own that kind of bike.

You're talking about making your bike less appealing to steal and part of that is making it less appealing than other bikes. Everything else being equal, I bet the bike thief would start cutting at the cheap Canadian Tire lock than the kryptonite (This is what I use). Of course, if it's only your bike out there and no one else is around, they might grab it easily enough. I'd probably bus if I knew I'd be in that situation and if I also expect high traffic from bike thieves.

I would recommend going with kryptonite, but it's also important to know that that's only half of not getting your bike stolen.

Good point. I'll save for some saddle and wheels. My current Kilo TT seat looks brand new so I'm planning on replacing it when it wears out. I got a helmet, front brakes, and grip yesterday so I'm thinking I should get a lock first before I buy more parts haha.

I'm looking at this one right now!
http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-Bicycle-FlexFrame-3-25-Inch/dp/B005YPK9VQ?t=slicinc-20&tag=slicinc-20&ascsubtag=azbSmMjDEeKhJ47FIPa4tA0_2syZ3_USN_0_0

Do you use a lock? Which do you use?

Another option going the same route is something like this

It's the little brother of the light KMart posted.

Get one for your head and one for your bars, that way you can turn your head to illuminate things that are not directly in front of you and level.

Also get a $5 wide angle lens for the light on your bars.

Cree headlight 17.99 Three light settings all of them bright as hell. You can get a diffuser lens for like 4 bucks that makes it a wide beam.

Edit: bad link. better one.

Thanks, I brought the light off amazon.

$16

http://www.amazon.com/Lumen-Bicycle-HeadLight-Flashlight-Headlamp/dp/B006QQX3C4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398201820&sr=8-1&keywords=lithium+headlight+bike

This is hands down the best front light for the money. It's so bright that people might mistake you for a motorcycle/car. Some people suggest monitoring the charging, and disconnecting once it's fully charged. Also, mount the light so it's dangling from the bottom, rather than on top on your handlebar.

http://www.amazon.com/Lumen-Bicycle-HeadLight-Flashlight-Headlamp/dp/B006QQX3C4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397169543&sr=8-1&keywords=cree+bike+light

For the rear, I suggest this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/150800979140?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Not on the body, but this is what I use on my almost nightly rides. The frame bag has two nice pockets that make gear easily accessible. Room for my wallet, phone, and repair kit too. I also have a powerful 1200 lumen light that lets me see what's happening farther ahead.
http://www.modernbike.com/itemgroup.asp?igpk=2126186169&TID=367&gclid=COza-7O2g7gCFZBaMgodVQUAtA
http://www.amazon.com/Lumen-Bicycle-HeadLight-Flashlight-Headlamp/dp/B006QQX3C4

NICE! I think I'll order that. The one I have is insufficient.


Found it for ~$4 cheaper Link

I'm gonna take some flak for this but I bought three of these guys ($20x3=$60) 1200 lumen is probably overrated a bit but not by too much. Maybe ~900:
http://www.amazon.com/RioRand-Bicycle-HeadLight-Flashlight-Headlamp/dp/B006QQX3C4


And then I bought one wide angle lens.
http://www.amazon.com/MagicShine-Gemini-Lights-Headlight-Includes/dp/B004WLCLQY

I am into my lights for $70ish bucks and have one unfocused beam, one trail sized focused beam and a spare light & battery. Nothing worse than getting stuck in the middle nowhere - in the dark.

So yeah, I took the cheap route. The bike specific brands do offer a stronger light but my light output matches or beats all of my riding buddies with brand name lights.

Worst thing I can say about the setup is that they are bound to the bars with a rubber strap. You have to tighten it down pretty well or it can slip on the bar. I didn't like helmet mounted because I blind my friends by looking at them when talking. So yeah probably not the most popular post but they work and they work well. They've lasted about 3 years already and no issues. One word of advice, some of the newer LEDs use a different battery connector so order yours at the same time so all of your lights & batteries are interchangeable.

Interesting, I'll try it. This 1200 lumen looks good for a main, would just have to come up with mounting hardware.

This is basically a knock off of the magicshine. Works just as well for a lot cheaper. I have a magicshine mj-808 and my friend has one of these. It is almost identical. This particular one claims 1200 lumens too. So it might be even brighter than the mj-808.

http://www.amazon.com/Lumen-Bicycle-HeadLight-Flashlight-Headlamp/dp/B006QQX3C4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367445162&sr=8-1&keywords=magicshine

This! For the price, it is absolutely worth it. I've used it so many times in the dark and it is just so unbelievably bright.

Yep, most visible-light LEDs have almost no UV. However, use good LEDs, no cheap ones. You want "binned" LEDs; those having a specific color temperature. There's more of a guarantee that there will be no UV.

I like Cree XM-L T6 (T6 is the bin code--warm white.) XM-L LEDs are very efficient, and can get very, very bright if pushed to their max. current. At high currents they do get hot, and require heat sinks to avoid burning out. You can find XM-L flashlight/bike light/head lamps that are real cheap when ordered from China. Wire the battery terminals up to a wall adapter, and they' can be pretty decent lamps. IKEA has some cheap-ish ($10,) but less-bright LED desk lamps. Right now I'm using 4 of those for my emulsion work.

Really frickin' bright bike light...

1200 lumens, $23: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006QQX3C4/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can buy a mount for your helmet for an additional $12.

I'd also recommend going with 2 lights, one for the bars, one for the helmet -- they're not always pointed in the same directions.

Have fun! Darkness makes old trails new again.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006QQX3C4/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I will guarantee you that you can't get a better deal on a light. I've been using this to commute for the last 2 months and was blown away.

I think you should go into lights a little more. Many people make the mistake of just grabbing the cheapest lights, which aren't bright enough to help you actually see or stand out enough that motorists see you.

Most rear lights are fine, it is usually front lights that I find inadequate. I recommend this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006QQX3C4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1368717055&sr=8-2&pi=SL75 but it does have a small battery you must find room to mount and on the brightest setting only lasts a few hours. If you keep it charged between commutes, it is perfect, though. I can clearly see the road and cars can clearly see my light. Before, I was using a 1-Watt AA battery powered one and it was ok, but I had a lot of close calls because motorists still couldn't see me until I was right on top of them. If you don't want to deal with mounting a battery and keeping it charged, I recommend using nothing weaker than a 1-Watt, but more will be better and however much you spend, it will be cheaper than a hospital bill.

I just got a Cree bike light to mount to my handlebar. I already have a Magicshine mounted on my helmet.

I'm surprised that the Cree is much brighter than my Magicshine which cost double the price, which still isn't much for good lights. I just ran the Cree at the lowest light setting so it blended better with my other light.

I just doubt that flashlights like the one shown in the picture here are bright compared to a real bike light. Plus, the battery lasts 3 hours which is more than enough time to cover 20mi on most trails.

i found some called "Porteur Racks" but they are all for the front.

i basically just want something like this

https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Classique-Cargo-Front-Rack/dp/B00B135SSE/ref=pd_sbs_468_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00B135SSE&pd_rd_r=TE00W3PQFHBTAADEEKFH&pd_rd_w=Z8V56&pd_rd_wg=kNTgF&psc=1&refRID=TE00W3PQFHBTAADEEKFH

but for the back of the bike.

Here's the Amazon link.

Origin8 Classique Cargo HD Front Rack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B135SSE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

It's a pretty basic carrier but it gets the job done. Note that it doesn't come with the hardware for mounting it to your fork.

Panniers are by far the best option, but if you're short on cash you can do what myself and others have done: I had the planet bike eco rack with a milk crate zip tied to it and liked it. Just changed it to the origin8 classique front rack w/milk crate and LOVE it. Good luck.

https://www.amazon.com/Planet-Bike-Oversized-Aluminum-Pre-installed/dp/B000SPMU9Q
https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Classique-Cargo-Front-Rack/dp/B00B135SSE/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1510021748&sr=1-1&keywords=Origin8+classique

Try a nice front rack. I have a '94 Singletrack as well that I turn into my commuter during the winter. I am wanting to get a rack and believe a front rack would work better. You can easily put your backpack on there and strap it down. Here: https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Classique-Cargo-Front-Rack/dp/B00B135SSE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511010576&sr=8-3&keywords=front+bicycle+rack

I'm not in LA but came across this post while searching for a Caviar courier subreddit(looks like it doesn't exist yet). Would this work for your bike and budget?

http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Classique-Cargo-Front-Rack/dp/B00B135SSE

Add a heat bag, bungees(I prefer the flat kind).

The map routing situation can be dealt with some MacGuyvering or with more expensive fixes. I have this flattish seat bag that I used to keep spare tubes in; now I have it MacGuyvered onto one of the straps of my backpack. I stick my phone in there instead of a pants pocket. I turn the app volume all the way up and can hear Gmaps routing(if I need it) through the din of NYC traffic.

Bluetooth earbuds, as already mentioned, will work. Small portable BT speakers(that you can somehow attach to a backpack) will work. If you must have the visual map to look at, maybe the mount is your only option..

It's an Origin 8 rack. It's alloy, so it's pretty light for the size of the platform. It's supposed to mount on a solid axle, but I figured out that chainring bolts fit inside the mounting holes perfectly, and the inner diameter of some allow an m5 bolt to fit perfectly. Works great this way.

I've found a front porteur rack (like https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Classique-Cargo-Front-Rack/dp/B00B135SSE) is a much more convenient solution for hauling a messenger bag or backpack. Depending on the bike, a Wald basket on the front is an even more convenient solution.

Rear racks are great for long-distance touring with a good set of panniers, but using them with anything else (including makeshift panniers) is just not that convenient. Stuff on top of the rack can make mounting/dismounting awkward. Stuff on the side needs to be free of straps and dangly bits that could get caught (or very carefully secured). Heel clearance with makeshift panniers is another concern. Last, but not least, panniers pick up a lot of road grime. Even if it's easy to take your bag off the side of the rack and throw it over your shoulder at the destination, it may be dirty enough you don't want to.

I have one of the Origin 8 cargo racks. I don't love it, but it gets the job done and it was cheap.

Yeah for just a platform rack, you could even look at the Origin8 CargoHD. I have one on my around towner and I love it.

Have any of you used the origin 8 classique rack? Is it any good? If I don't have eyelets should I be fine? Should I spend way more and just get a soma or even a BLB rack?

Just search "Bike work stand".

Plenty of options. I'm looking at getting this one:
http://www.amazon.com/BIKEHAND-Cycle-Mechanic-Bicycle-Repair/dp/B00D9B7OKQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1408986564&sr=1-1&keywords=bike+stand

$90. The cheaper ones I saw went for $55. I'm not sure what that converts to in Europe money.

I have one of these, though it's always difficult to say how much of a difference +/- ~$50 makes. Reviews on the lower end one seems to mention issues with the clamp often, but the clamp on this one definitely feels extremely solid. Few of the reviews on this one mention issues with collar at the telescopic bit; I'm about 6 months in and moderate use, and haven't noticed signs of it thus far.

I like these shorts they are not that expensive and have lasted well over a year and going strong. My floor pump looks something like this but I can't remember the brand name. As far as tools you likely just need a screw driver and an allen key for the adjustments. There are some youtube videos that explain the process. You will want a work stand. <-- is the one I got. It is a little bouncy but it works and it was under $100 so I'm happy with it. You may want to throw in a pedal wrench while your at it.

Bikehand pro. I borrowed it from my friend and it's doing a great job holding up Project ChEBorow. I'm ordering my own right now.

Well, if it makes you feel better, me and my partner have had very little bike fixing experience, we've had to learn it all ourselves.

The bike comes 95% assembled:

• need to use a hex wrench to fasten the handlebars
  
• you need a wrench to install the pedals
  
  We ended up getting a bike repair stand which does a great job of holding the bike if you take the battery off first. My partner and i swapped out our tires to some semi-slicks and have since learned how to replace flats on our own. We are still pretty slow -- it takes us 30-45 minutes to take off and reinstall a tire but we're getting faster! This is coming from someone who is not very mechanically inclined either.
  
  They also include a variety of tools (tire levels, etc) that you can use for maintenance, so you don't have to worry too much about going out and buying it yourself -- we had to go to our local hardware store because their toolkits were out of stock at the time.

hey boss man, why is it bad to hard clamp frame tubes? I have https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D9B7OKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and i put it in my top tube (cross bar). Is this not good to store it that way? Thanks for your help and time

edit: i also only have a single speed bianchi that is super beat up from 7 years of riding (got it for $300 on craigslist back in the day), but i am just curious what is wrong with clamping the top tube or frame tubes for storage and/or workstations

This is what I have.

It works well and is cheaper than something like a Park Tool. It holds up my fatbike with no issues, so seems pretty sturdy.

I picked this one up when I ran into the same problem; works well enough for me.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D9B7OKQ

This one is surprisingly good considering the price. IMO you won't find better for a new stand under $100

I realized I need to buy some stuff to maintain my bike, and was looking for some input on what to get for the 'essentials'.

I need a repair stand. I was thinking about this model from Amazon. Seems to have decent reviews. I have a step-through bike so I guess I just hold it by the seat post and that's fine?

I also wanted to adjust my saddle position and the seat post length, do I need a torque wrench for this? I found this one. Should I just get a fixed torque one? Or just use normal hex keys and save my money?

For cleaning the chain and drive train, is it worth getting one of those special chain cleaning tools and cycle specific degreaser or can I just use "LA's Totally Awesome" cleaner and degreaser from Dollar Tree and a couple of floor scrub brushes held together? The Dollar Tree product I have already because I use it diluted as a general cleaner. At full strength it can soften certain plastics and remove some paints so it's pretty strong.

Is there any other stuff that I'm missing that I need for basic maintenance that I'm missing?

Just ordered this, haven't received it yet. But the reviews are pretty good.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D9B7OKQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've been thinking about getting this one: http://amzn.com/B00D9B7OKQ . The reviews seem good, it is a reputable brand, it folds up, and it looks sturdy enough in the typical problem spots (clamp rotation, etc.)

EDIT: Also, this is /r/mtb, not /r/bicycling.

I use one of these, usually on medium, which would be about 500 or 600 lumens, and aim it about 15-20ft ahead of the bike. It's got a tight beam pattern, and doesn't blind other riders.

edit: most of what everyone else says is dead on. Please don't be that ass with the flasher (every headlight that I've ever looked at puts out maximum lumens on flashing mode, and will blind other riders.) Point them where you want to see in order to avoid obstacles - not at the sky or straight ahead. I have a long history of doing endurance mountain bike races, so if you ever want to discuss real lights for seeing in the dark (race speeds! AT NIGHT! IN THE WOODS!) Let me know.

https://www.amazon.com/Bright-Eyes-Rechargeable-Headlight-taillight/dp/B00GJZ015Y/

I've had one of these for 1.5 years and it works great. I pair it with another headlight on my helmet and it's plenty for riding singletrack at night on my MTB.

I just ordered this bright eyes one:
http://www.amazon.com/Bright-Eyes-Rechargeable-Headlight-taillight/dp/B00GJZ015Y?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

A guy I work with has one and loves it. The bright eyes brand is supposed to have much better warranty and support than other similar knockoff brands. The battery on it is supposed to be better as well.

Only thing is he said you probably need a diffuser as the beam is pretty narrow as it. His came with a diffuser, even though the listing doesn't say it does. I'm waiting for mine to be delivered before I order one.

https://www.amazon.com/Bright-Eyes-Rechargeable-Headlight-taillight/dp/B00GJZ015Y/ref=pd_sbs_468_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00GJZ015Y&pd_rd_r=HJTEYFZFRC1AKMFZFA5J&pd_rd_w=fDn7J&pd_rd_wg=pac6k&psc=1&refRID=HJTEYFZFRC1AKMFZFA5J
and
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LXTORC4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for my helmet

These get really good reviews from friends of mine who own them, I am planning to get a couple myself soon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GJZ015Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1464648347&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=bright+eyes+bicycle+light&dpPl=1&dpID=515uFVbOheL&ref=plSrch

I like these ones from Amazon if you are going to go this route:
Bright Eyes

Basically the same LED and similar housing, but better QC, and much better attention to detail.

Everything from the packaging, to the waterproofing of the housing, to the included accessories, are worlds better than a similar cheap Chinese one I bought off I ebay. Plus, I feel much more confident with the battery. Some of those Chinese versions have had reports of the batteries catching fire while charging.

Also, it's Prime so you don't need to wait for it to ship from China, you can return it without hassle if you don't like it, it comes with a FREE tail light that is really nice, and it just has the overall appearance of a product that somebody actually cares about.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GJZ015Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415627423&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

I have a rechargeable light with battery pack from Amazon. At first hated the bulky battery but damn do I love this light, I think they have a new version note too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GJZ015Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481961960&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=bright+eyes+bike+light&dpPl=1&dpID=51SmEyvHJbL&ref=plSrch

I like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Blitzu-Rechargeable-Intensity-Accessories-Flashlight/dp/B015IEJ0GC

They are USB rechargeable a decent form factor, moderately water resistant and bright enough to be seen. They make a front and a rear. I have a set on each of my bikes. They are long and narrow and you can change the orientation by 90 degrees so you can put it in line with your handlebars or turn it 90 to be in line with your seat post so they blend well in daylight.

Some lights and a helmet are top on my list. Any recommendations on lights? I've got Prime so Amazon makes sense to get something quick and likely cheaper than a local shop. This is what I'm leaning towards. Areas I'd ride at night are pretty visible, so definitely just need something to alert surrounding cars.

Rear light

Front light

Blitzu Cyborg https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015IEJ0GC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5wNFAb1J15G62

You don't need to spend much on the bike frame itself, but you will need a light for the front, one for the back, a few tools to help you change your own tires and tubes (look into them, not expensive), patch them, et cetera. It sounds daunting but it really isn't, and it's fun knowing you have control over your thing. Like with a computer when you build one.

Cyclists in Boston chain their bikes up to lamps and signs (trees I think are illegal in some cities, so I don't), and bike racks of course. There's the threat of theft though I never experienced it. I always leave my bike in a visible area on the street, so that if someone were to try anything they'd be in sight of a camera or something nearby. Or unfortunately, target other bikes (which sounds bad since by taking up front realty, others can't chain there, but that's just how it is).

Sure thing.

1. I have mid-range USB rechargeable lights: Headlight. Tail light. I will say that the headlight doesn't fit perfectly on the L Train's bars due to the bend in them. But it's plenty bright and lasts a long time. I had it on my old bike and just kept it. I also added Priority full fenders and front basket to make it more useful to me as a commuter. Both were tedious to install (like most fenders and some baskets) but are very solid and haven't given me any issues so far. Here's a link to a picture I posted the first day I rode it to work.
   
   ​
   
   
2. I don't need any more gears. The seven are plenty for my rides in Chicago. If I lived in San Fran or Seattle, I'd probably want more lol. In my mind, a parking garage ramp is pretty steep, I wouldn't want to regularly climb hills like that with this bike. I know some people do though, more power to them. I can easily maintain speed while going up overpasses around here though.
   
   ​
   
   
3. What I meant by 'spinning out' is that I could pedal faster than the bike was going. Basically, I couldn't speed up anymore, even in 7th. Again, that's only done the one grade on my commute and at that point, I'd guess that I'm probably going about 25-27 mph. No need to go any faster in my mind. On flat ground, I'm not strong enough to maintain top speed in 7th gear for long at all. I usually max out in 5th while commuting through the city.

I have the older version of this light.

It has seen over 7,000 miles of use, all sorts of weather conditions , and is two and a half years old now. It' still working although the USB port cover came off and the charging cable needs to put it and wiggled to get it to charge so I'm not expecting to get much longer out of it.

For the $15 I paid, it's been great value for money.

I was very pleased with [these guys!] (https://www.amazon.com/Dash-350-Micro-30-Combo/dp/B013FIYP8G/ref=sr_1_7?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1481479796&sr=1-7&keywords=cygolight)

if you want something cheaper I could suggest front and [rear] (https://www.amazon.com/Blitzu-Rechargeable-Intensity-Accessories-Flashlight/dp/B015IEJ0GC/ref=sr_1_18?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1481479840&sr=1-18&keywords=bike+light)

Here! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015IEJ0GC/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

these bad boys! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015IEJ0GC/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b2aF2gd_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-4&pf_rd_r=8H99BVX2Q3WSATVFTJW9&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=d38a9968-bfb0-56d9-b053-93ceabef104b&pf_rd_i=2367799011

Seat Post

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015IEJ0GC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

On the Pannier i am not sure of the brand. I got it awhile ago. Ill check.

My rear light of choice has a very fast blink rate--seizure fast--so the problem of it being off half the time isn't a problem.

This one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015IEJ0GC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Has two blink settings, one of which is disco-fast. There'd be no way to look my direction only when it was between blinks. In fact, if you could look at a rider only when a blinking light was off, I'd call that 'pulsing' and not blinking. I'm also not sold on the idea that it will cause a problematic distraction. The point of a blinking light is to distract--to distract that driver away from their phone call, wandering mind, etc., and get their attention on you.

I personally haven't had a problem when I've been driving or riding and seen rapidly blinking lights--and I notice them faster.

[SELL]
Meepo 1.5 (less than 100 miles), comes with:

[ShredLights]
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075KWYZZY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) Costed $44.99

Nose and tail guard Costed $13.99

[Red tail light] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015IEJ0GC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) Costed $18.37

[Longboard Tool] (https://i.imgur.com/adtDPzF.jpg)

[Extra trucks and screws from the recall] (https://i.imgur.com/MAcuYoi.jpg)

[Remote (no wrist strap, sorry)] (https://i.imgur.com/Wao1vfJ.jpg)

[Charger] (https://i.imgur.com/yolnbbV.jpg)

[Wall mount + 4 screws] (https://i.imgur.com/8yOyrHq.jpg)

I'm in the Bay Area (Mountain View). $450 OBO

You can possibly get them from Amazon for much cheaper than retail. I got my pedals + clips for around $32 (Shimano SPDs). You can get non name brands for cheaper. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WYAENC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

My shoes were from the Amazon warehouse, and I paid $40 for them. Someone had bought them, tried them on and they didn't fit well, and did the free return thing. They were in their original box with tags and everything. Pearl Izumi X-Alp Seeks, retailed at my REI for $110ish. Shop around!

SPD/Speedplay, theyre all very good, but if you want to wear regular sneakers and look normal walking around, i would suggest the following:

The SPD cleat hides in the soles, so you can walk around flat footed without the clack clack clack of normal cycling shoes.

http://amzn.com/B000WYAENC
http://amzn.com/B0058YFFV2

I say this because you have a langster, if you have a traditional road bike and do 80-100 miles or more on a single ride, i would say go with the speedplays, theyre a solid system and so simple, you don't have to think much after you set them up.

How about this one? But the brakes will still be on the straight handlebar.

If you find an older road bike (like 80s or 70s) bar, the diameter will work with your shifters/brakes.

These may be helpful, but are not an equivalent for drops.

I'd ride it as is though.

Yeah bar diameter kinda sucks I think you can probably fit some extensions to it though? You'll at least be able to get into them for sprints and stuff I suppose but I'd miss riding on the hoods...

I have risers, love rapid fire shifters, but like the feel of drops at times and thought about these

So here's what I would do. Slide in your controls and grips to where you think they would be comfy. Ride it without touching the part of the bars you think you won't use. Cut the bars there if you're satisfied. If you really want drop bars for some reason, stick these on there after you chop the bars. https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-33617-Drop-Ends/dp/B0013G6PB8:

ive asked this question before, basicly best answer was bar end drops. like these: https://smile.amazon.com/Origin8-33617-Drop-Ends/dp/B0013G6PB8?sa-no-redirect=1

as far as fit, if your legs are long enough that you can pedal a size larger fine then you may be able to get away with just changing the stem, which isn't too expensive or difficult.

a shorter steeper stem will get the bars closer to you and higher which will focus less of your weight on your hands.

I had a Giant Escape. You can either sell the bike and buy a road bike on Craigslist (what I did), or buy these:

http://www.amazon.com/Origin-Bicycle-Drop-Ends-Black/dp/B0013G6PB8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409073242&sr=8-1&keywords=drop+bar+ends

Putting proper drops on is just too expensive.

See what I wrote above. It's just impractical to convert. If you want to have the hand positions, buy a bar ends and be done with it.

One example -

https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-33617-Drop-Ends/dp/B0013G6PB8/

They’re drop bar attachments I added to my flat bar

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-33617-Drop-Ends/dp/B0013G6PB8

What is it about drops that you want? If it's a more aggressive riding position then yes go with a road bike. But do know those slimmer tires will not be as forgiving over bumps as something with a bit more volume.

If its just that you want more hand positions for the ride there are a whole variety of bar ends that you can add for little expense. Some of these will stretch you out more, some will just reorient your hands, and these mimic drop bars.

Plus v-brakes are probably the best rim brakes for a commuter (powerful, easy to run fenders, etc etc.)

Or you can try these clamp on drop bars Origin8 Drop Ends https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013G6PB8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MFH5CbJ121487

I have a set of these: https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-33617-Drop-Ends/dp/B0013G6PB8 that I would like to get rid of.

I wondered about this too when I had the same bike, but you have to realize that you will be using it a radically different purpose than the frame was intended. That isn't just fluff. The geometry is very different. As much as I liked to think so, the 7.2 is not really a flat-bar road bike. the geometry is much more upright.

Sure, you can use your corvette to haul a trailer, but that is really not what it was designed for. If you see what I mean.

Now, I personally think it would look like ass, but you can install something like these bar ends

Are these the bars?

Yeah, I had to do another google search because I was confused. Here they are on amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Origin-Bicycle-Drop-Ends-Black/dp/B0013G6PB8

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013G6PB8/ comes close for cheap

I agree. If he wants to try drop bar geometry on the bike he could try these and adjust/replace the stem. Maybe cut the bars after placement. Wouldn't need to invest in shifters/brakes/brifters to try the fit. Definitely cheaper way to try the geometry change.

i have a hybrid and just recently added drop bars. it cost a little over $30 and you can find all the materials off of amazon.
link for the dropbars
grip tape

The current consensus over on /r/bicycling is a Nebo Redline + the Twofish mount. Thinking about hooking up that option myself because I keep having cycling specific lights crap out on me.

edit none of this shit is really BIFL, but the Nebo option is cheap enough that you won't get too upset if you somehow break it

TwoFish Lockblocks

I like the TwoFish LockBlocks for single cell lights.

I'm a fan of the TwoFish flashlight holder plus no-name but well reviewed flashlights:

https://www.amazon.com/TwoFish-9-Lockblocks-Flashlight-Holder/dp/B001CJXB5E