(Part 2) Best sports & outdoors cycling according to redditors

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We found 16,183 Reddit comments discussing the best sports & outdoors cycling. We ranked the 7,672 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Subcategories:

Cycling accessories
BMX equipment
Bike footwear
Bike components & parts
Bike tools & maintenence products
Bikes
Cycling protective gear
Bike frames
Kids bikes & accessories
Sports & outdoors Clothing
Cycling electronics
Bike tires & tubes
Bike wheels & accessories
Bike helmets & accessories
Cycling hydration & nutrition accessories
Bike racks & bags
Bike child seats & cargo trailers
Bike transportation & storage products
Bike trainers & accessories

Top Reddit comments about Cycling:

u/epicstratton · 97 pointsr/bicycling

Note: finally posting this as USPS finally paid up on my claim.

USPS truck sideswiped me as we crossed an intersection. Driver was cited and USPS paid my claim. I got out of this with some minor road rash and a strained muscle, but otherwise no injuries.

One more of the bike http://www.imgur.com/gallery/3QQxtxC

Pedal is sheared off the axle, wheels are annihilated, as is the fork, stem faceplate is torn up along with the saddle, and cranks are bent. Rain gear was all destroyed as well due to sliding across the pavement. Helmet also toast.

Also, since the question keeps coming up:

Yes, I did have lights. Tail light was destroyed/thrown from bike. The headlights had been removed by me at time of photos as I didn't want them getting lost/damaged further. Vis 360 was mounted to helmet. Also had a Planet Bike Spok which is slightly viable in the second picture, under the saddle.

u/CannaCJ · 44 pointsr/bicycling

Pick up some spoke reflectors. Adds an unbelievable amount of visibility, and even non-cyclists think it makes my wheels look cooler.

Something like this.

u/ReyRey5280 · 44 pointsr/Denver

Here's some other riding tips:

Always use a quality ulock (no masterlock) and lock your frame and rear wheel to a rack - use a cable for the other wheel if you got one. I use On Guard brand and have never had a problem.

Get an all in one bike multitool like this one This one's great because it has tire irons for fixing a tube, spoke wrenches for straightening a wheel, and other tools that you'll never knew you needed until you do, all together in one unit.

Learn how to replace a tube! It's really not hard with tire irons and a small travel pump. Carry a new tube on you at all times - or go lightweight and carry a patch kit. After you replace your first tube, learn how to patch it at home and use that as your spare. Keep one of these valve adapters screwed on to you valve stem for gas station air ups to full pressure if the hand pump wears you down.

Learn to adjust your seat if your taint is getting beat up by your seat. More cushion does not make for a more comfortable ride! Your ass bones are all that need to be supported and cushion covers feel nice for the first 10 minutes, but that added friction will only give you saddle sores. Proper seat adjustment is just as important as the type of seat. Your legs should almost be fully extended when the pedal is closest to the street. Slight angle adjustments to the saddle are huge in terms of ride quality and it's just one screw under the seat.

Keep your chain and gears clean, use a chain specific all-in-one lube and cleaner and wipe thoroughly. The more noise your bike makes, the more friction to the moving parts which means more wear and tear, and loss of energy.

Always carry a bandanna or rag to wipe the grease, grime, sweat, or blood incurred from riding.

Wear a fucking helmet! If you don't like looking like a dork with alien technology aerodynamics on your head, rock a rounded multi-sport helmet that you can also use while on the slopes or when cruising some fruit boots. Lock it to your bike through the straps that aren't easily undone, just don't leave it like this overnight if you don't want it stolen.

There's plenty of other stuff, but most importantly don't ride like a dick. You should ride in the street and, again, never ride at night without good lights -it's just stupid and dangerous.

u/SnakeyesX · 27 pointsr/blog

Many of our users use either ellipticals or stationary bikes. It's the same idea, and while bikes are cheaper and smaller, the treadmill has some advantages for both aspects of gaming and exercising.

That being said the best exercise is the one you will actually do, we would love to have you stop by!

Edit: Here is a good stationary bike mod to turn your regular bike to a stationary one at the end of the day. Perfect to set up a monitor or laptop onto a TV tray while you finish your Assassins Creed 100% achievement.

u/andrewcooke · 25 pointsr/MTB

a cougar hunts stealthily, comes at you from behind, and jumps aiming to bite the neck. you'd be better with a mirror.

^(not as macho tho)

edit: don't people put googly eyes on the back of their hats / helmets? seriously.

^(mirror and googly eyes you'd be sex on wheels.)

u/BigBlack1264 · 17 pointsr/bikecommuting

I can't speak to who makes those fenders, but the rack is an Axiom Streamliner Road DLX, which I currently have on my Synapse 105.

u/crs- · 16 pointsr/Fitness

why not get one of these and use a children's bike?

u/MOIST_MAN · 13 pointsr/bicycling

I've created a short list of everything I have, linked items are the ones that I recommend.

Things for the road

Frame/ Mini pump

Saddle Bag

Patch Kit

Tire Boot (You can make your own for cheap, but these are still good)

Tire levers (See Multi-Tool, Levers Included)

Multi Tool (Super-Recommend)

Bike Lights

Spare Tubes (Optional for the road)

Bottles of choice

Sunglasses of choice

Gloves of choice (Important! For preventing impossible-to-heal palm scrapes)

Cycling compter

U Lock (no cable locks! they're garbage) <<I Have 3 of these, but then again, I live in Oakland.

Things for home

Floor pump

Tools (Pretty much covered by Multi-Tool, but there's things you may need like cassette tool, chain whip, etc)

Wet and Dry chain lube

Clothing (Optional, I only have the shoes and windbreaker)

Hi-Vis Jacket

Clipless shoes, I recommend SPD for easier walking

Jersey

Padded Shorts, or Bib shorts

Windbreaker

Leg Warmers

Most importantly, you need knowledge of cycling. Look up videos on youtube about safe riding on the road, traffic laws, hand signals, how to repair your bike on the road and at home, how to take a fall, and as much theory that you can)

EDIT: Do not let me trick you into thinking that a multi-tool is a replacement for the big-boy tools that are available on the market. Some of those tools are actually worth the investment. However, be that as it may, do your research first, because there's some overpriced crap out there ^^^Park ^^^Tools.

u/tkari · 12 pointsr/UCDavis

I recommend getting a U-Lock along with an extension cable. You want to put the U-Lock somewhere through the rear triangle like this.
This locks the rear wheel and the frame. Then you want to loop the extension cable through the U-Lock and put it through your front tire so it is also secure. Kryptonite, Abus, and On Guard are all good lock brands. Something like this lock would work fine, but there are more expensive options if you want to be more secure. I personally use this lock. All locks are about buying time because an angle grinder can cut through any lock in a few minutes. I suggest parking it to something secure, something public, and well-lit. Also, make sure to register your bike through TAPS because if someone steals your bike or puts a lock on it, they won't be able to help you. Good luck!

u/whenhen · 12 pointsr/cycling

Posting pictures of the bike would be helpful. If you decide to do this, make sure to post a few high quality shots of your drivetrain which could show us if there's any critical wear.

However, before you post the pictures, it would be helpful to clean the bike. Get a bucket of soapy water, find a sponge or rag that you don't mind sacrificing and get to cleaning your mountain bike. Dry it off, and then post the pictures (that will make any critical deficiencies more obvious).

As others have mentioned, you'll most likely need to remove the chain. Here's a video from one of the best cycling channels on Youtube, Global Cycling Network (GCN), that shows you exactly how to do that. GCN and its sister channel, Global Mountain Bike Network (GMBN) offer a number of fantastic maintenance videos in addition to a variety of other content. If you're wondering where to get a chain tool, I would just spend a bit of extra money and get a good multi tool like the Crank Brothers multi tool which already comes with one.

Pump up the tires to see if they still hold air. If they do, fantastic. Nothing more needs to be done. If not, you'll need to get new tubes (most likely your mountain bike will need 26 in X 1.9-2.125 in tubes). Here's how to install a new tube.


As a bike commuter, you'll need a number of things to stay safe and make sure your bike stays in your hands. Here are the essentials:

  1. Front and rear lights. I use this flashlight for my front light, and a rear light similar to this.

  2. A helmet. From your posting history, you seem to live in Australia. All helmets sold in that country are required to meet the same safety standards so in all likelihood, spending more on a helmet will not make you safer. Buy one in a store and you're set.

  3. A great bike lock. Read this to learn the proper way to lock your bike.

    However, staying safe is only the first part. You'll want or need a number of other items to make sure that your commute isn't frustrating. Here are some of the items off of the top of my head.

  4. Bike pump. If you're going to mostly ride near gas stations which have air pumps that can inflate a tube, you probably don't need to carry around a mini pump on your rides. However, everyone should own a floor pump.

  5. Degreaser. The cheap automotive kind is fine as is WD 40. This is used when you need to clean the drivetrain.

  6. Bike lube. Stick with a bike specific one.

  7. Disposable poncho. When I lived in an area where it often rained, I always had a dollar store disposable poncho in my backpack. It's just super handy if there's an unexpected downpour.

  8. Fenders. I personally don't have them, but I live in a relatively dry climate. If you live in a place where it always rains, they're super helpful.

  9. Bottle cage. A cheap plastic one is fine.

  10. Tire levers.

  11. Rear rack. Assuming you don't have a full suspension mountain bike and instead have a hard tail (here's an article if you're unsure), get a rear rack. Do not get one that is only mounted to the seat post like this Ibera, but rather one that connects to the bike frame. If your bike does not have any bolts that can attach, you can use P clamps to secure the rack. This post describes how to do just that.

  12. Some way to transport groceries. While I use a milk crate that I ziptied onto my rear rack with bungee cords on top of the crate (similar to this setup), many others use panniers to transport groceries and other goods. This has the benefit of more storage, better center of gravity, and can be water proof. However, they are usually much more expensive unless you go the DIY route.

  13. Bike bell. Cars won't be able to hear you, but if you ride in areas with lots of pedestrians or other cyclists, it's useful.

  14. Spare tube. Fortunately 26 in tubes are cheap and super easy to find. Any department store with a bike section will carry them.

    /r/bikecommuting can be a helpful resource if you have other questions.
u/BlackDebbie · 11 pointsr/bicycling

The smallest, hardest, thickest lock from a reputable manufacturer which works for your bike and where you lock it up.

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-Mini-Bike-U-Lock/dp/B000AMPRG0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1324565999&sr=8-2

is widely considered to be a good compromise lock for those of us who don't live in high-crime areas. It has a very hard to pick cylinder, is too small to break with a car jack (if used properly), is too hard and thick to cut with anything but super-duper long bolt cutters, hacksawing it is possible but tough, and will actually resist the Uber angle-grinder attack for a (little) while.

u/scoofy · 10 pointsr/sanfrancisco

Hey everyone, you may have seen me raging or telling people to be nice around the subreddit now and then, but you may not know that i am a mod on /r/bicycling and started /r/nycbike.

So this is a decent article about locking, but again... like always, it misses several critical aspects of bike locking.

  • U-Locks: Smaller is better, buy quality, buy quality!!!

    Why is smaller better? Because the way you break a u-lock is with a jack, and if you can't get the jack into the lock, you can't break the lock.

  • Cable locks are garbage!!! They are fucking garbage, do not buy them... do not buy a cable lock! They are worthless and you can break them with a simple pipe without making any noise.

    >The front wheel will always be easier to take off then the rear, so knowing how to lock it is a valuable skill.

    This is wrong. Back wheels come off just a easily as front, and cost more to replace, and i want to punch every writer that says to lock your front wheel because it's "safer" cause it's fucking not and never has been, ever!

    Which reminds me, the sheldon brown method doesn't work, btw.

    >Using two locks is the most secure method.

    No, well maybe, but no, not really. The most secure method is to lock with 300 individual locks in your apartment, and never leave the house. Any intellectually honest person will tell you that you need to be smart, and prepare yourself for when you are lazy, and want to leave your bike out for "just one second" and don't want to bother to lock it, and that's when it gets stolen.

    This is a psychological problem. The solution is locking skewers.

  • Buy locking skewers. Please for the love of god, buy a small u-lock, a tiny seat cable, and locking fucking skewers. Please, i'm begging you.

    This is the method i use, because i'm lazy, and if i have to do anything that makes me do real work (like carry around a bunch of u-locks, or a bullshit cable lock), then i just very well may act stupid and not properly lock up my bike, as it stands, it takes me 2 seconds to lock my bike perfectly securely.

    tl;dr: Ideally, you want a small, quality u-lock. This locks your frame and will also lock your seat if you buy a seat cable. Just remember to make a slipknot through the seat's rails (nobody really want's to steal your crappy seat anyway). Next, buy locking skewers!!!. If your front wheel is bolt on, then just wait and see if it ever gets stolen (it probably won't unless you're unlucky), then buy a new front wheel with a skewer, and add a locking skewer. If your back wheel is bolt on, buy a longer u-lock and lock through the rear triangle and rear wheel together. Now, if you really give a shit about your bike, buy a locking top cap. This will save your fork if you come across any jerks that want your sweet, vintage, peugeot chrome fork.

    Also, never leave your bike outside over night, ever!
u/pentium4borg · 10 pointsr/Seattle

Thieves are generally not going to remove things that are bolted down to your bike, except for possibly your seat (especially if it's an expensive seat like a Brooks).

Wheels are a common target, as are things that are easily removed (don't leave detachable lights on your bike, for example).

What I do is I have a big U-lock for the front wheel and frame, and I have locking skewers for both wheels and my headset. These replace your quick release so someone can't just detach your wheel and walk away. There's a bolt in there for your seat as well, if it's compatible. My seat bolt wasn't so I have a short cable lock looped through my seat and permanently zip tied to my bike, just as a deterrent.

With this setup I only have to use my U-lock when I park and take my lights off. Everything else needs tools to be removed, and I haven't had anything stolen to date.

Another thing to do is park next to bikes that only have cable locks. They'll be stolen first.

u/JakWote · 9 pointsr/bicycletouring

Two sets of whatever clothes you wear whilst riding. Wool socks.

Wet weather gear, at least a waterproof shell for your top.

One set of civilian/camp clothes. I like slip-on shoes like Sanuks, but whatever floats your boat. I hear flip-flops are popular.

Tools. Allen wrenches and small fixed wrenches for anything you might have to adjust immediately (brakes, fenders, racks, derailleurs, etc). A flathead and a #2 phillips screwdriver, or a multitool with those. Tire levers, patch kit, pump/CO2. Tire boot maybe? I've never needed one, but they seem useful. Spoke wrench, replacement spokes or a one of these sweet things, anything else relevant to your setup for on-road fixes.

Tent/shelter, groundcloth, sleeping bag. Sleeping pad?

Fuel bottle, stove, water pot, spoon. Water filter? I like bringing chopsticks, they're small and help flip things while cooking, but pocket rockets are more for boiling than cooking, right? I don't really know.

Camera. Notebook and pencil. E-reader or book maybe. Soap and a toothbrush.

Try to pack less than you need and pick up things on the way. Better to save the weight.

u/TinyTurboAbarth · 9 pointsr/bikecommuting

it’s this axiom “slim” rack. it’s something that I’ve been looking for for a while. I’ve yet to have any heel strike even with my 25L pannier.

u/ChicagoCyclist · 9 pointsr/bikecommuting

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DNG8DSY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Those are the ones I got! Super easy to install, all they do is snap onto your spokes & you're all set!!

u/partard · 8 pointsr/bicycling

Mount a pump to the frame under the water bottle cage.
I like the Topeak Road Morph

Get a Saddle Bag and fill it with

  • 2 spare tubes
  • Patch Kit
  • Tire Levers
  • Small adjustable wrench (if you don't have QR skewers)

    Optional but handy

    Bike Multi Tool

    2 CO2 cartridges

    CO2 Tire filler

u/pigcupid · 8 pointsr/bikewrench

I've never been out there for 2 months, but for longer tours I carry a regular Crank Brothers multitool, spare tubes, a patch kit (just got buy a fresh one from the bike shop, don't chance your cement being dry), along with a cassette cracker and a FiberFix spoke. I also laminated the instructions for the FiberFix, because it's tricky, and I keep it stuffed in a ziplock baggie with a $5 bill and some pieces of Tyvek. Though if I were heading out there for two months, I might consider bringing a few spokes of all sizes I actually need. I presume you will be carrying large saddle bags and not trying to keep weight and size to an absolute minimum, so there's no real harm there.

Obviously one or two spare quick links for whatever speed of chain you are using. Don't worry about mixing KMC and Shimano or something, that doesn't really matter in real life, and it matters even less when you're trying to cobble your bike together to make it to the next place with water.

When my bike had a spare derailleur hanger, I carried an exact match. I kept it wrapped up in a plastic bag inside of one of my spare tubes, so I always knew where to find it. My touring bike now has an integrated hanger, so I keep universal derailleur hanger with me, but fortunately I've never had to use it.

Aside from that, the only unusual thing I carry with me, as I mentioned earlier, is Tyvek to use as a tire boot. I've found that most commercial tire boots are shit, and I've twice seen the edges on a Park boot cut through tubes run at low pressure (which you do, when you ride where I ride). That said, you could just use a Clif bar wrapper, or any other piece of foil garbage that's laying around. Oh, and I carry with me a radial car tire patch, which you can get at any auto parts store. These are great for fixing big cuts in tires. Just clean out the inside and glue it in, as you would a patch on an inner tube, and it will keep your tire together, and you can often just ride it out.

Anyway, that's a lot of words. I hope some of it was useful

u/failsure · 7 pointsr/bikecommuting

Not that particular one, but this one. I clipped it to the visor of my helmet rather than wear it on my glasses. It took some getting used to, but by the second day I had the knack for turning my head to see what I wanted to in the mirror with ease. It looks silly and is easy to knock out of adjustment if I do not pay attention, but I like it. Seeing cars come up behind me was actually a little intimidating at first...ignorance was bliss :-)

u/ryth · 7 pointsr/bicycletouring

May want to consider a "fibre fix" spoke. I haven't used one yet, but carry one with me on tour. One of these should do you well enough until you get to a town/city where you can get your wheel fixed.

http://www.amazon.com/FiberFix-Emergency-Spoke-Replacement-Kit/dp/B001GSMQZC

edit: here's a video of how it works: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eF8R7psdtN4

u/B_ongfunk · 7 pointsr/bicycletouring
u/_McAngryPants_ · 7 pointsr/Portland

Because I use Pinheads. While not a perfect solution, they are a nice deterrent.

u/vfrbub · 7 pointsr/MTB

I carry the Topeak Hexus II with me, but I also use it for simple adjustments in the garage because it has everything I need all in one place.

u/longhornbicyclist · 7 pointsr/Austin

I bike everywhere even during the summer months. One way to keep sweating to a minimum is to plan routes through quiet/shaded neighborhood streets, ride at a bit of a slower pace, get to know the topography to avoid hills, avoid wearing backpacks (get a rear rack on your bike and attach panniers to carry things), and avoid riding during the hottest part of the day if possible (3-5 PM).

There are commuter showers at Mellow Johnny's downtown. Outside of downtown, you can maybe look if there's a gym nearby your workplace (if they don't provide one) if you think you need to shower before work. That or you can bring a change of clothes and some wet wipes and clean yourself off a bit at your workplace's restroom.

Before heading out for a bike ride, take a cool shower. Getting rid of the germs on your skin lessens bad smells.

Another tip I recommend is to use the bus system. You can bring your bikes on all city buses via the rack on the front. For long commutes it helps to bus/train part of the way then bike the rest of the way.

For grocery shopping, you can actually do that on a bicycle pretty easily! I can't recommend these enough, I use them to grocery shop and they are very sturdy and can carry 2 big bags of food:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B4ZKZK0/ref=asc_df_B00B4ZKZK03094547?smid=AOX84OWDPPJFO&tag=pgmp-1370-97-20&linkCode=df0&creative=395109&creativeASIN=B00B4ZKZK0

u/Gnascher · 7 pointsr/bicycling
u/bk7j · 6 pointsr/bikecommuting

My preference for lights depends on the type of conditions I'm riding in. In daylight or early evening, a blinking light is good for making you more visible. At night along dark paths, a solid light is crucial for being able to actually see what's in front of me. In dark conditions, a blinking on/off light will make it harder for other people to track you, which is why a combination is good.
In order to not worry about a huge number of lights, I like the Cygolite Metro which has a steady-flash mode where there is a solid light with a little pulse, so it both gives light and attracts attention without being annoying. I also have a taillight where the light moves back and forth instead of blinking.

u/UpTheDownEscalator · 6 pointsr/bicycling

Buy this grease:

White lightning grease

Buy this general lubricant:

Triflow

Buy this multi-tool:

Alien II It includes all common allen and wrench sizes, a chain breaker, and spoke wrench.

Buy this socket set:

Ice tools 8 x 9 x 10

Get this adjustable wrench:

Wrench

Buy these tire levers:

Park tool levers

With all of that you should have more than enough to do basic maintenance with under $80 worth of tools.

As you get more skilled, you'll need some specialized tools for the bottom brackets, headsets, and cones on your wheels but those will vary by type/bike, and in time you will own multiple bikes so buy the tools when you when you need them.

u/arcticrobot · 6 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Basic bicycle maintenance is done with basic tools: hex wrenches, flat and philips screwdrivers, adjustable wrenches.

Multitools are only useable on the go. This Topeak is decent and gets the job done. I always have one in my backpack. Plastic bits are gone, some rust here and there, but it still does what it should do. It's worked fine since I bought it in 2009. Seen tenth of thousands of singletrack mtb miles, rainstorms, river crossings - every outdoor mtb stuff was thrown at it.

u/XxGirxX · 6 pointsr/bicycling

I have the Topeak Alien II. This thing has almost everything. Fits nicely in a wedge pack.

u/AWildPenguinAppeared · 6 pointsr/cycling

My first:

Pedals - $50 when I bought at REI 3 years ago

Shoes - $65 when I bought them at REI 3 years ago

Jersey - $30, I absolutely love these cheap jerseys from Amazon, the zipper on the first one I bought finally gave out 3 years later. I will happily spend $30 on a new jersey every couple years.

Shorts - About $40 when I bought, I wouldn't recommend, they are hard to wear for more than an hour. This is one area where I believe it's important to buy nicer materials, especially for long rides. I have Pearl Izumi and Le Col bibs, they are fine but I am still looking for something that works better on long rides. I am trying theblackbibs.com next.

Let me know if you have additional questions as you get started, I took a relatively budget-minded approached when I jumped in.

u/Newdles · 6 pointsr/cycling

Shimano PD-R540 SPD-SL Road Pedals, cleats included for $35.50. Go to a local performance bike and buy the cheapest shoes that fit, can probably find a pair for about $50. It's still more expensive than $8, but so much better than cages.

u/AimForTheAce · 6 pointsr/bikecommuting

Prob. the picture needs some explanations. I have a small bag of repair things on the road. It's pretty basic but it's sufficient for most cases.

  1. Spare tube 700x28c-38c. (32c in summer time, 37c in winter.)
  2. Patch kit
  3. The master links (9s, 10s) in the patch kit
  4. Head lamp - quite necessary to fix flat in dark
  5. Topeak Hexus II - includes tire levers and chain tool
  6. USB battery
  7. Short lighting cable
  8. Micro USB cable
  9. Kevler emergency spoke

    My head light - Fenix BC21R - can be powered through Micro USB port, so although I usually carry a spare battery, in real emergency, I can power using USB battery. Obviously, I can also charge the iPhone with lighting cable, if it's dead.

    I hope to not ever use the emergency spoke, so are the master links. But, it should get me out of real sticky situations. If not, I know I can call SOS by my phone and I don't even need to worry about running out of phone juice.

    I keep these in the bag, and put it in my pani along with a pump.
u/jaasx · 6 pointsr/cycling

To quote Mr.T - "pain"
I'd do no more than 20 (fairly flat) miles on a first ride. You're probably plenty fit - but bikes are different than running. Increase as you feel comfortable. You might rub your naughty bits with a good cream (nozxema) before hand, for some lubrication - and I assume you have property biking shorts with a chamois? You need that. I like a mirror on my helmet. Eventually you'll need clipless shoes & pedals (which ironically do have clips). And watch out for cars.

u/Projectile_Setback · 6 pointsr/philadelphia

A $300 bike isn't really worth stealing. Bike thieves aren't stupid and aren't going to invest time popping locks for a $300 bike. It will get stolen if it's not locked, but it's not likely to be the target of a deliberate and sophisticated effort. That gets saved for people who are idiots that locks $2,500 road bikes with shitty U-Locks.

Get her a decent bike and put Pinheads on the seatpost and wheels. Lock it with a Kryptonite Fahgettaboudit U-Lock. If it's going to be left overnight, lock it with both that U-Lock and a Kryptonite Fahgettaboudit Chain, as this is going to require two sets of tools in most cases, or a minimum of 4 cuts and two batteries in the event someone is using a grinder.

u/wiggee · 6 pointsr/bicycling

I was looking into this last year, and I found TreeHugger had the best guide. (Un?)fortunately, your bike is going to look like a good bike to anyone in the know. Proper security is probably going to do you more good than making your bike ugly. Your bike isn't worth that much that you want to spend $400 securing it, so here's a few tips.

First, you can get rid of any quickreleases, in favor of either locking skewers, gravity skewers, or something else that will make taking the tires off more of a pain.

Second, use a u-lock and a cable lock. Both wheels should be secured separately, both to the frame, and at least one of the locks through your bike rack (both should fit, if your u-lock fits right now). The purpose of the two types of locks is to require two types of tools to free your bike from the rack.

Third, get renter's/homeowner's insurance to cover the bike. Should be less than $10 a month, and will give you peace of mind.

Finally, if you just want to prevent people from riding away with your bike, there are.... other... less safe-for-work methods...

u/Yossarian567 · 5 pointsr/chicago

I agree, Lawrence has a bike line for a lot of it and is comparatively stress-free.

If you don't own a helmet mirror, I highly recommend getting one for the city. It gives you a little picture-in-picture of what's behind you, so you don't need to turn away from your path to check over your shoulder. I got a lot more comfortable biking in the city when I bought one.
https://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Original/dp/B000C17M26/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1504314945&sr=1-2&keywords=helmet+mirror

u/spleeble · 5 pointsr/bikewrench


  • A floor pump

  • A patch kit or two (and learn how to use it)

  • A multi tool to carry with you on rides (I like the Topeak Ratchet Rocket or the Topeak Alien, either one gives you a chain tool as well)

  • some extra master links (get the right thickness for your chain)

  • master link pliers (I like these little bitty ones but they shouldn't be so expensive)

  • 15mm pedal wrench


u/DonOblivious · 5 pointsr/bicycling

In addition to everybody recommending pannier bags:

Rear rack side-mount wire basket: Wald 582, pair

Rear top-mount wire basket: Wald 585

File storage crate or a heavier duty milk crate

u/barrakuda · 5 pointsr/bicycling

You can get Metal Baskets for the rear rack. They collapse and stay on the bike, very meh looking, but that's better isn't it?
edit:
here

u/JuDGe3690 · 5 pointsr/whichbike

For all-around utility and versatility, a hybrid/comfort bike is a good starter choice, as could be a used mountain bike (either of these types can handle light gravel and gentle off-road use). Try to avoid department store bikes—rather, companies like Giant/Liv, Raleigh, Specialized, Trek and others offer good quality. Riding around town, you don't need suspension (it reduces efficiency), so look for a rigid frame.

Around this time of year, many bike shops will be clearing out this year's models to make room for next year; see if you can snag something good there, as well as checking Craigslist.

With your height, you'll be looking for a Small frame (around 16 inches/40 centimeters—the height of the frame's seat tube).

I'd look for a good-quality basic bike—for example, here is Giant's entry-level $330 Sedona W—and kit it up with fenders and a rack at the very least. Fenders will run around $40, and a rack will cost $25-50 depending on the type. I'd also recommend getting a pair of folding baskets on either side of the rack, which will help you carry at least a full paper grocery bag on either side.

You'll also want lights; Serfas makes a good commuter light set that's about $40 for headlight and taillight.

u/cyclefreaksix · 5 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

http://www.amazon.com/Axiom-Streamliner-Road-Cycle-Black/dp/B0025UCXEO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1406760876&sr=8-3&keywords=axiom+bike+rack

I went with this because I was concerned about heelstrike issues due to the seatstay angle. Turns out that it was a good choice but didn't prevent me from grazing the large bags when fully packed. Which is why I put the big bags up front and the mini's in back.

The bags are Ortlieb Backrollers.

u/tam_n · 5 pointsr/bikecommuting

If your Revenio 1.0 is anything like my Capri 1.0, you may want to try looking into a rack like the Axiom Streamliner Road DLX since it puts the rack a bit farther back and gives you another 4cm of clearance. As /u/ChariotOfFire mentioned, the chainstay looks pretty short and my Raleigh has a very small chainstay as well.

As for bags, I've got some Arkel Cargo panniers. I went to the nearest LBS and they were the cheapest option (the LBS is tiny, so limited stock) and only recently found out that they're intended for front racks. :p Oops. They work well enough though, hah.

Good luck!

u/OneLifeLiveIt · 5 pointsr/bicycletouring

I had exactly the same problem as you. In the end I picked up the Axiom streamliner DLX. it goes through the nit on your brake fittings, an then just on the end of your skewers.

It also moves the rack back by 4cm so you have more clearance. It's sturdy and hasn't caused any other problems as of yet.

u/HohumPole · 5 pointsr/bicycling

I had the same problem until someone told me to use the "dry" oil lubricant and not the "wet" oil lubricant. The "wet" stuff is very sticky (any dirt will stick to it) and I was told is better for mountain bikes that you need to keep working even when covered in mud and gunk. The "dry" stuff is less sticky, less viscous and better suited to road bikes. My chain and cassette is always shiny now.

u/OneLegAtATime · 5 pointsr/TheVeneration

All this talk of bicycles yesterday made me stop for a selfie on my commute this morning. I don't ride a motorcycle, so here's my 2-wheeled steed.

This is the pier a half-mile from my work, so 9.5 miles into my morning ride. It's warm enough here to bike in shorts and a jersey in January!

  • Kona Honky Inc, steel-frame with carbon fork.
  • Avid BB7 mechanical disc brakes.
  • Ultegra/105 mash-up drivetrain with 105 shifters and Ultegra derailleurs.
  • No rack braze-ons and disc brakes mean I had to hunt a bit for an appropriate rack. I chose not to go with the P-clip method and instead got this Axiom rack. Panniers are axiom as well.
  • It's a short commute, so I often just do it in exercise shorts. Thinking of getting shorter running shorts, or moving to bicycling shorts, but this works fine for now. When it gets a bit colder I'll bike in jeans, but it's been a warm January.
u/daniel_ismyrealname · 5 pointsr/bikecommuting

Pick up one of these brackets: Taillight Bracket

Then get any compatible light, such as: PDW Danger Zone or Nightrider Solas

The PDW Danger Zone is a better light, and cheaper, but the Nightrider is USB rechargeable. The PDW is better, because you can easily pair it with rechargeable AAA batteries. This allows you to replace the batteries as they wear out, toss a non-rechargeable battery in in a pinch. When used a couple hours a day, decent rechargeable batteries last over a full week. IMO rechargeable AAA > USB rechargeable.

Or, if you find a light you like with the standard CatEye-style rear light mount, there's this bracket that fits those: CatEye Rack Bracket CatEye mounts are square with small indents on the back, like this: CatEye Light (best picture I could find).

That said, depending on where you live, I'd really recommend looking into a dyno hub and dyno lighting. Lithium batteries really work poorly in the cold, and NiMH work only marginally better. With long, cold days coming, not relying on batteries is really nice. At the least, I'd recommend against lithium batteries if you live somewhere cold. Rechargeable NiMH aren't really that much bother, especially if you buy extras and have them in a charge-rotation...always fresh batteries.

u/snukb · 5 pointsr/bikecommuting

I agree with all this, and in addition I would recommend just getting some cheap sports clothing from your local department store. No need to spend all that money on specialty bike clothes if your commute is only 7 miles. A general sports tee (in the US, my local Target has some sports tees in high-vis orange and yellow for $8) and some sports shorts. Make sure they're made from wicking material or you'll be miserable in the warmer months. For such a short commute though, padded cycle shorts are not necessary. My cycle commute is about 8.5 miles and I've never needed or wanted specialty padded cycle shorts. Most of the year I wear some cheap cargo shorts, in summer it's wicking workout shorts, in the winter I wear lined tights under my work slacks.

Use the money you save to buy some good panniers and fenders.

Get some good lights-- you'll want them just in case you find yourself cycling in low light or if it's cloudy and dark or foggy. At the least, get a good taillight.

If you're worried about sweat and don't have a shower facility available, baby wipes are very helpful. Carry some extra deodorant in your pack too. Bike your route in advance a few times to make sure you've got enough time to get to school and get yourself dressed/prepared.

u/mulletman13 · 5 pointsr/LifeProTips

If you have a bicycle in your household, something like this can be used.

I've used one over the years for indoor training and they are fantastic tools. Good luck!

u/me_on_the_internet · 5 pointsr/homefitness

I just bought an indoor bike trainer for my apartment. It basically tuns any normal bike into a stationary bike. If you already have a bicycle, it wouldn't take up that much extra space. And it is easy enough to put the bike on, or take it off. Here is a link if you're interested

u/supremeMilo · 5 pointsr/bicycling

I got this torque wrench, I like it as it takes out the guess work.

I would also request some carbon assembly paste, as sometimes the required torque isn't enough without it.

u/[deleted] · 5 pointsr/bicycling

These (as well as reflective tape on the frame) are definitely a great way to increase your visibility from the side. They look great!

Also, for anyone curious about the product, from the other user's comment history it looks like they're these: https://www.amazon.com/Salzmann-Scotchlite-Spoke-Reflector-Bicycle/dp/B00DNG8DSY

u/GoodyPower · 5 pointsr/bikecommuting

Imo spoke reflectors are better as you don't have to turn them on and they don't require batteries

Salzmann 3M Scotchlite Hi Vis Spoke Reflector Bicycle Clips - 36 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DNG8DSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_v7SxCbKK6GHDZ

u/drabbb · 5 pointsr/bikecommuting

Looks like these are a similar product available stateside.

u/sodium_azide · 5 pointsr/SeattleWA

I like and use this light. On its max setting, it's too bright for lit streets or two way bike paths, but it's nice when I get out into my neighborhood with very little lighting. I usually use it on the first or second brightness setting on paths or roads. I've seen it as cheap as $35 or so on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Metro-550-USB-Light/dp/B00LXTORC4/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1485022128&sr=1-1&keywords=cygolite+metro+550

When it comes down to it, the other guy is right. It's really all about the angle of the light, not the lumens.

u/HenryJonesJunior · 4 pointsr/bikecommuting

What's your price range? That affects the options quite a bit.

How dark is your area - are you looking for something to ensure cars can see you (i.e. do you have streetlights on your whole route) or are you going to need the light to actually see? That affects how much power you need.

For taillights, I love the PDW Danger Zone. Not that expensive, quite bright, and its variable flash setting is very attention getting. I have one on each of my bikes and never leave home without it.

For headlights, there are a lot of options out there. I commute down some dark bike trails at night, so I have a Niterider Minewt 600, which was the predecessor to their current Lumina 650. It's stunning - waterproof, durable, extremely bright (on high, I can go 20-25mph in pitch black with great confidence, and most of the time I just leave it on low or medium for fear of blinding people), very good battery life (I recharge it a couple times a month), and USB rechargable so I just bring it in at work occasionally and charge it there. It's not the cheapest, but if you're planning on bike commuting long term it's a solid investment (I've had mine for over a year and it shows no signs of dying any time soon).

u/HorribleComments · 4 pointsr/bicycling

It's been about a decade since I was consistently cycling, and I want to get back into it. I have a ~800mile trip planned as a reward to myself if I am in shape by September 2016.

  • Is this a realistic goal/timeline?
  • I am not ready to train on the city streets yet, and don't have a car to get out to calmer roads. Any advice on trainers would be appreciated. Right now I am looking at this one on Amazon.
  • Apps for training?

    Thanks
u/dangerousdave2244 · 4 pointsr/washingtondc

Im so sorry this happened to you. I cant give any better advice than has been given, however, I have advice on how to prevent your next bike from being stolen.

I REALLY hope that cable lock in the picture isnt the lock you used. Using a cheap $20 lock to protect what I'm guessing is a $600 or more bike is asking for trouble. For your next bike, get locking skewers to protect your wheels. They make it practically impossible to remove your wheels when used right. Then get a U-lock, and use it anywhere on the frame. If you only protect your frame and not your wheels (aka if you dont get the locking skewers, or use a cable lock for your wheels), then you're looking at paying around $200 per wheel in aftermarket parts.

Locking Skewers:
http://www.amazon.com/Pinhead-Bicycle-Locking-Skewer-Pack/dp/B001Y9X328

http://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-MinPin-3-Piece-Locking-Skewer/dp/B00773XY9M/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1373286334&sr=1-2&keywords=onguard+skewers

or the best:
http://www.urbanbiketech.com/Pitlock-Locking-Skewer-Sets-s/1.htm

For U-locks, any is pretty good, but the higher-end you go, the better, and DEFINITELY sign up for the insurance the lock comes with! Here are two of the best:
http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Standard-Bicycle-Transit-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK9SY/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1373286741&sr=1-2&keywords=new+york+lock

http://www.amazon.com/Blackburn-Sing-Bicycle-U-Lock/dp/B00470OYE2/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1373286786&sr=1-2&keywords=blackburn+u+lock

u/vhalros · 4 pointsr/bikecommuting

I guess I see what you mean, but I'm so detached from the bar scene that I really don't know what is appropriate. A backpack also seems awkward? Maybe you'd prefer something like this and just leave it on the bike: http://www.amazon.com/Bushwhacker-Omaha-Bicycle-Grocery-Pannier/dp/B00B4ZKZK0/ref=sr_1_14?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1464531744&

u/jtinz · 4 pointsr/bicycling

Nothing wrong with the reflectors. But if you want something nicer looking, spoke sticks are a good candidate and are highly visible at night.

u/BalooUriza · 4 pointsr/bicycling

I prefer helmet mirrors over bar-end mirrors for ease of installation and because your body will minimize vibrations that make mirrors harder to use. Out of the helmet mirrors I've tried, here's what I've found:

  • Third Eye helmet mirror - Near garbage. Ball joint becomes unusably limp within only a few months of daily, all-weather use. 1990s versions use adhesive to stick to your helmet, so kind of a pain in the ass to set up or stick back on if the cold causes the adhesive to get brittle and snap off. Weirdly thick rim around the mirror. Newer versions use a forked design to slip onto a visor or eyeglasses instead, but given how well plastics do with wear and flexing, this just adds another point of failure. Wasted more time in high school on this thing than my time was worth, which is impressive considering I made about 25-50¢/hour working for the Boy Scouts during the summers only. On the upside, no vibration at all while it's still new and holds tight.

  • Bike Peddler Take A Look mirror. Not that much more than the cheapo Third Eye model. Wire design highly adjustable. Mine's now moved to it's third helmet and outlasted the bicycle I bought it with. Larger mirror than the Third Eye model. Mine's 20 years old now, and the design on new ones is exactly the same as they were 20 years ago. A little on the springy side, can be a little annoying on rough surfaces as a result. Holds it's position extremely well. If you're going helmet instead of bar-end, start here.
u/crawsome · 4 pointsr/phillycycling

For your #2, from what I understand

  1. Stand in front of your bike
  2. Strattle the front wheel with your legs, hold the wheel so it cannot move.
  3. While restraining the wheel, turn your handlebars until your alignment is back. If there's no give after a few light torques, you can either buy a wrench that fits the nut, or you can take it to a shop.

    Also, you can google your bike for it's specifications if you want to find the proper wrench size. They make This, which might be cheaper than taking it to a shop.

u/vulture-capitalist · 4 pointsr/bicycletouring

Here are some ideas


http://www.amazon.com/Surly-Nice-Rack-Black-Cromoly/dp/B001GSQULS

http://www.arkel-od.com/us/all-categories/touring-bike-bag/t-42-lite-touring-panniers.html#!/more-details



http://www.amazon.com/Brooks-Saddles-Special-Bicycle-Saddle/dp/B001AYMOAY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367506572&sr=8-1&keywords=Brooks+B17+Special+Saddle


http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Alien-26-Function-Bicycle-Tool/dp/B000FIE4AE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1367506625&sr=8-3&keywords=topeak+multitool


http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Road-Morph-Bike-Gauge/dp/B000FI6YOS/ref=pd_sim_sg_10


http://www.amazon.com/Crane-Suzu-Lever-Strike-Brass/dp/B001MS2KHA/ref=pd_sim_sg_90


http://www.amazon.com/Velo-Orange-Hammered-Alloy-Fender/dp/B004JKK1V0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367506912&sr=8-1&keywords=velo+orange+fenders+hammered


http://www.amazon.com/Ergon-Series-Bicycle-Handle-Standard/dp/B0015QWRM2/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1367506936&sr=1-1&keywords=ergo+grips


http://www.amazon.com/Spenco-Classic-Glove-Beige-Crochet/dp/B0025UEWR0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367507174&sr=8-1&keywords=spenco+gloves


http://www.amazon.com/Keen-Commuter-Cycling-Shadow-Gargoyle/dp/B003Z4KPFI/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1367507250&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=keen+bike


http://www.amazon.com/Gold-Bond-Medicated-10-Ounce-Containers/dp/B001G7QSS4/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1367507286&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=gold+bond


u/pthu · 4 pointsr/cycling

I've heard of FiberFix repair spokes, but I've never tried one. https://www.amazon.com/FiberFix-Emergency-Spoke-Replacement-Kit/dp/B001GSMQZC

u/m312vin · 4 pointsr/bicycling

I've always preferred the Bike Peddler Take A Look Cycling Eyeglass Mirror:
http://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Mirror/dp/B001VTQNVO

The compact version is very unobtrusive when attached to eyewear but you would need the original version and a helmet adapter kit for use attached to a helmet.

u/stusutcliffe · 4 pointsr/chicago

I use these:
Pinhead Bicycle Locking Skewer Set, 4 Pack

There are other similar items, so you can shop around for your needs and price. As with any bike lock situation, nothing can prevent theft, but these do a great job of deterring.

u/utopianfiat · 3 pointsr/bikecommuting

Honestly, if you live in an area that's urban enough to commute by bike, you either need a mini-lock for your front wheel, a nice long chain lock, or buck up and secure your bolts.

u/nickpickles · 3 pointsr/evergreen

First off: spring for a ulock. Might I suggest this one. Don't get one too long, this size (7 inches) is about the max you want to go, and unless you have a beefy mtn bike will clear the rear triangle/wheel with room to put to a pole. This will secure your bike very well and give little traction for people to put a pry bar into it. The Kryptonite Evo series is a good balance between weight and strength, but remember that with time and force anything can be broken into.

With the rear of your frame and tire secured connect a thick wire to the lock (the one included will work and is lightweight) and loop it through your front tire. It won't take very long with good bolt cutters to chop this, but it will thwart anyone looking to quick disconnect your front tire and run with it.

As for the light: does it have a quick disconnect to it? If not, look into acquiring one, or building one. A lot of bike thievery is on accessories/front tires/seats/crappily locked-up bikes. If you have an expensive seat, put a thin wire around it and connect it to your ulock and/or get hex or other bolts for your seatpost. They make security bolts which require a special head for seatposts/tires/etc.

Spend a little bit to save your investment/transportation. If you lock it up well it will be less of a target.

When on-campus also check out the Evergreen Bike Shop which is a volunteer-ran (I volunteer during the school year so come say hi) free bike area for you to work on your stuff in. Check the sxhedule to see when it's open and call ahead to make sure someone is there. All the tools are free to sue and there are free parts bins all over. Tubes and other items can be purchased for a great price, as well. They don't do the work for you but can teach you how to maintain your cycle if you lack knowledge in this area.

Have fun!

u/nimblerabit · 3 pointsr/bicycling

The kryptonite mini is $35, but is an absolutely fantastic lock if you want to go up that high:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AMPRG0/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000OZ9VLU&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0811NS4PXZAZSRVRJC83

I'm sure there are lots of other good U-Lock options on amazon and other retailers though, just take a look around.

u/dcgi · 3 pointsr/bicycling

Yeah it's a Kryptonite evolution mini, a good strong lock, that doesn't weight much (compared to say the very secure fahgettaboudit, although you will have to be a little bit more picky about where you lock it up to get it through your back wheel/frame/non-movable object.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000AMPRG0/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=103612307&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B004C94T84&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_r=15K44FMXMSFQEH9M6QNX

u/unreqistered · 3 pointsr/bikecommuting

The mirrors that you can attach to your helmet or glasses are much better. Bar mounted mirrors rely in part on the direction the bars are point, which may not be where you actually want to look.

A helmet/glass mounted system allows you the freedom to control you view, whether it be close behind or further away.

I mount my Take A Look on a pair of shooter / safety glasses.

u/eimmerman401 · 3 pointsr/bicycling

I use this one when on my road bike and love it. Real glass and good view : Bike Peddler Take A Look Cycling Eyeglass Mirror (Original) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C17M26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pfK7AbNJE12AJ

This one is installed on the bar end on my commuter. Glass, good optics, wide field of view: Mirrycle Mountain Bike Mirror https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BR4NIC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ShK7Ab0A8YWC2

Mirrors have saved my bacon multiple times and I don’t ride without anymore.

u/dartman5000 · 3 pointsr/bicycletouring
u/Smaskifa · 3 pointsr/cycling

I never ride while carrying anything. That's what panniers are for. As others said, get a rear view mirror. I got this one and love it.

u/limitedmage · 3 pointsr/bikecommuting

I agree with the mirror. I am way more confident doing left turns and lane changes after getting a small mirror on my glasses. Right lane changes are kinda terrifying now though :) This is the mirror I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C17M26

u/zombie_hoard · 3 pointsr/NYCbike

Few things. I think that most of the people here pointed out the biggies - rules, regulations, legal necessity stuff, maps, etc. I'm still newish to the city and just got a bike a few months ago. What really really helped me was joining some cycling groups. People are typically very friendly and they know their bike stuff and can help you if you have a flat, etc.

I first joined bicycling groups on www.meetup.com. The only one I've ever rode with was Social Cycling NYC though, really great folks. I also joined the 5 Borough Bike Club (5BBC); I've only been on one ride so far but, again, great people.

There are lots of rides to participate in too. The first Friday of every month, Time's up does a Moonlight Central Park ride. Really cool, I did the last one. There is also one of these for Prospect Park and I hear that one is nice too. Time's up also does a ride called Critical Mass, but I haven't personally went, just heard about it. These are free rides. Some (all? I don't know) of the 5BBC rides are free but there is a yearly membership ($20 and if you join in October, I think, you essentially are buying the 2013 membership and have the rest of 2012 free). However, I'm not sure how much free time you'll have to gallivant around!

Joining an organization like 5BBC or Transportation Alternatives also gets you discounts at bike shops as an FYI. Each organization has a list of participating shops.

Anytime I've ridden in Brooklyn, I've really enjoyed it. There are many more bike lanes than up my way in Queens. Take advantage of that and explore! A ride to Rockaway beach is nice too.

Some gear you might be interested in that I thought was helpful:

26 in one multi tool

On frame pump


Also, I don't know what sort of pedals you have or prefer. However IF you decide to get clips or clipless pedals, some of the bike folks I've met told me a few things. (I have clipless pedals btw) If you've never had clips/clipless pedals, get a pedal that has the the cleat thing on one side and a pedal platform on the other. This way, you don't have to be clipped in if you don't want to be.
I got these.

Also, for the shoes that go with said pedal: I was told for predominantly city riding that you can wear out the cleat on the bottom of the shoe faster if you have the treadless road bike shoe. Also, if you do any walking on hard surfaces with this shoe I guess it wears out quicker. If you buy a mountain bike shoe it has a perimeter of tread that goes around the sole. Keeps the cleat more protected from grinding on the pavement. It will still grind on certain types of ground or flooring though.

Since I already have Amazon open:

This Versus this

I have Pearl Izumi shoes and I really like them.

u/Valefox · 3 pointsr/MTB

To narrow down your search: I purchased a Camelbak MULE last April along with a Topeak Alien II multitool. Both of these items were fantastic purchases, and I'm so glad I bought them.

If you're interested in gloves, I bought a pair of Fox Inclines a while back and am happy with that purchase as well.

Congratulations on your new bike! You are going to enjoy it.

u/damien6 · 3 pointsr/MTB

Looks like a lot of stuff has been covered already.

As far as pedals, I ride with these Faceoff 13's and they've treated me well. If you can afford a decent pair of riding shoes, you can't really go wrong with 5.10's. If you decide to go clipless later, you can get 5.10's that you can ride clipless or on flats (see the Hellcat's). I recommend a good shoe with a sturdy sole. I rode with Vans for a while and dabbed my foot to catch my balance and ended up dabbing it right into a rock. The Vans crumpled and my toe took the brunt of the force. Not fun. I couldn't walk very well for a while. Good riding socks are awesome, too just to keep your feet from getting really sweaty.

Someone mentioned the Camelbak MULE. That's what I ride with and highly recommend it.

As for a helmet, I've been riding with a Fox Flux this season and I've been really impressed with it. I wear a skullcap under it to help keep my head cool and keep sweat from dripping into my face. You'll want something well ventilated over the BMX helmet for sure.

I do highly recommend a good pair of riding shorts with a comfortable chamois. I have some shorts from Fox, Dakine and Pearl Izumi and the Fox shorts have the best chamois and fit most comfortably.

You'll definitely want to bring an extra tube or two, tire levers and a hand pump or CO2. As far as tools, I take this multi-tool. It's a bit heavy, but it's treated me well. I would also throw some zip ties in your bag as well. They're light, but when you need them, they're worth their weight in gold.

u/hoangsong · 3 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle
u/SgtBaxter · 3 pointsr/bicycling

The term clipless is kind of stupid, because you "clip in". I think a better term is "cleated".

Years ago, pedals were flat and had "toe clips", which was a cage that went over the toes. Now, pedals use cleats mounted to the shoes to keep your foot attached to the pedal. Helps you transfer power better, and utilize more of the pedal stroke than flat pedals can. Mainly, you can ride farther with less fatigue because you can utilize different muscle groups in your leg.

Some of the most popular for road bikes are Shimano SPD-SL pedals, or Look Keo pedals which are very similar. You can find an inexpensive pair of Shimanos for $30-$40.

There are also Wellgo pedals that use the Look cleats for a little less. Some people find the Look cleats easier to lock in and get out of.

Some people also use Shimano SPD pedals that are meant for mountain bikes because the cleats are smaller and generally the shoes have the cleats recessed so you can walk in them easier. For long distances riding however, road pedals are better and give better power transfer.

Here's a video explaining them and how they work

u/aglef · 3 pointsr/bikecommuting

I have a collapsible rear basket that is incredible! Keeps my backpack off my back (no sweat!) and perfectly holds a grocery bag for errands. Plus, it folds down almost flat, so easy to store & park. Best bike upgrade I've done!

u/individual0 · 3 pointsr/bikecommuting

I like this one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012DZEBY/

It's a wire box that folds flat against your bike when you aren't using it. Perfect for my backpack, hoodie, and a couple other things. Or a grocery bag.

u/authentic_plagiarist · 3 pointsr/bikecommuting

I too was in your position OP. And I researched about portability comfort. Use of ingress and egress and style and price! My recommendation after 1yr of service is the mother fucking Wald folding basket. This thing is this shit. Here's why: it's cheap. Less than 30$. It looks good folded up! I can drop my backpack in it with my 16" laptop and a few books with ease. All that content being in my back pack. Once I get to school I just take my backpack out of the basket and folded it up if I want to or I just leave. It's awesome! http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0012DZEBY?pc_redir=1410667964&robot_redir=1

They're nice and durable. I've placed 40lbs of stuff in it no prob. And all this ortlieb stuff is nice but way too fucking expensive if you ask me. And some of it looks weird as a backpack. Then the hooks That connect to your rack are running against your back and just ugh. This allows you to retain your original book bag

u/ultimatekiwi · 3 pointsr/bicycletouring

sixsixsex already hit the nail on the head. However, thought I'd just make note of a fairly obvious point which is: Don't bring tools you don't know how to use! On tour isn't really a great time to learn how to use tools. And if you can't use it then it's just dead weight.

If your wheels are true and not particularly weak, you really should be fine with a pump/spare tube/patch kit/allen keys. Maybe a fiber-spoke if you're worried about your wheel breaking a spoke?

Err on the side of slightly too much food. Since this is a shorter trip you should be totally fine, but it really sucks to be 30 miles from anywhere and realize that you have absolutely no food. Super shitty. Same with water, although it's possible to find streams, etc.

Good questions.

u/TylerJ86 · 3 pointsr/bicycletouring

This seems like a simpler solution to me than bringing extra tools. Haven't used one but I carry it and I've heard lots of good things.

https://www.amazon.ca/FiberFix-Emergency-Spoke-Replacement-Kit/dp/B001GSMQZC

u/someguy235 · 3 pointsr/cycling

Get a helmet mirror, I like this one a lot. It lets you keep an eye on what's going on behind you, instead of just looking once when you need to change lanes or whatever. Much safer.

u/yiffzer · 3 pointsr/bicycling

Unfortunately not. The only way I'd know if anything passed me is by the pressure of object racing through which puts pressure on my side but then it'd be too late at that point to do anything. When I'm riding, all I feel are three things: the vibration of the handlebar and the ride, the wind noise that pass over my ears (yes, I can hear the wind but I cannot hear at frequencies that normal hearing would), and wind pressure on my body as I speed up / down. The pavement is simply not flexible enough nor is a bicycle's tires conductive enough to alert me ahead of time. That's why I have a mirror. The one I use and like very much is called "Take A Look" (https://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Mirror/dp/B001VTQNVO).

u/pjw1986 · 3 pointsr/bicycletouring

This is actually a pretty good rack that I've done a 3-day tour and a 6-day tour on with my roadie. The Seymour 45 panniers let me hold a tent, a sleeping bag, and a bunch of other various items.

u/illustribox · 3 pointsr/cycling

Take a look at the Axiom Streamliner DLX. It's the only reasonably priced rack of its sort that i've seen. Instead of requiring eyelets, it attaches at the quick release and the brake caliper bolt, has some setback from the quick release to avoid heel strike, and is specifically designed for road bikes.

u/ImdzTmtIM1CTn7ny · 3 pointsr/cycling

This is a tough bike. I have one that's about forty years old. It doesn't take much care.

Besides tires and tubes, you also need new brake pads. Cheap but very important.

In order of increasing cost/benefit:

Clean the drive train (all the gears and the chain) with rags and a degreaser. Old toothbrushes and dish brushes can help with this. You want to remove all the black, caked grease and clean the components to the bare metal. Once they are clean, let them dry and lubricate them.

Have a LBS replace the brake and shifter cables and housings. You probably have the original ones. Replacing these greatly reduces the risk of snapping a cable or two on the road, something that can render the bike unrideable. It will also make shifting and braking much smoother.

If your LBS tells you your chain is worn out, they are probably right. This is also a cheap fix. It will make shifting smoother and protect your drive train from excessive wear. It also lowers the risk of a broken chain on the road, which again makes the bike unrideable.

Enjoy!

u/hbalagtas · 3 pointsr/bikecommuting

Hi I've been using a chain cleaner I got off amazon with some citrus degreaser and then apply Finish Line dry/wet lube.

Would really like to get one of those nice bike stands like park tool but don't have the money, I just bought one of those bike hooks at the dollar store that goes on the wall of my shed.

u/Da_Funk · 3 pointsr/bicycling

Nah, it was quite the opposite. I previously used some of the spray on lube, Tri-Flow, too much of it, and it attracted a bunch of grit that required a good degreasing to get rid of. I found it difficult to put the appropriate amount of lube on the chain with the aerosol spray can. After this eventful ride I used Brake Parts Cleaner to degrease the chain and components and the soapy water and a host to get the excess out. Once it was clean and dry I used Finish Line bike lube as directed and it's much better now.

u/youtubecommenter69 · 3 pointsr/Velo

What is your preferred chain lube? I’ve always used Finish Line Dry Lube but lately I’m finding the muck and grease build-up frustrating to maintain on two bikes.

I ride mostly in dry weather and always on sealed roads although I will come across some road dust from time to time.

Should I change lube or switch to a wax coated chain?

u/kimbo305 · 3 pointsr/bicycling

If you have hex nuts on your bike, that one might be reasonable.

But it doesn't have a chainbreaker or tire levers. My favorite tool for versatility is: https://www.amazon.com/Topeak-60102538-Hexus-II-Multi-tool/dp/B0037N32VG

There's a $18 on the right sidebar .

It's not the best made, but I think you want tire levers in the long run.

u/CyclingZap · 3 pointsr/bicycletouring

Get a bike repair multi tool (like this, even cheap stuff like this should be fine) and a wrench to remove your wheels (if needed). These multi tools often have a chaintool included. Take a patch kit.

Check your bike before you go, apply some chain oil (NOT WD40) and you should be fine. I went over 5000km before I had my first flat tire and nothing else ever happened so far. Yes, I think I might be stupidly lucky, but for a few days you wont need to bring everything. If the worst happens you can hitchhike to the next train station or bikeshop.

u/grandzooby · 3 pointsr/bikecommuting

I have one of these little wedge bags that goes under my seat, like this one:
http://www.rei.com/product/722362/topeak-micro-wedge-seat-pack

In it, I keep one of these little tools: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037N32VG

It has a lot of things you might need for a quick repair, including a chain-breaker.

I also keep a 3-set of tire levers and the same little patches that mnorri recommends (I think), like these: http://www.rei.com/product/742967/slime-skabs-pre-glued-patch-kit

I also have a couple zipties because you never know when you might need one.

My commute is only 3 miles, so I don't carry a tube, but I probably should consider it for longer rides.

And I had one of these on my last bike. I never had to use it, but it was small and fitted on the back side of my seat tube, just in front of the tire, so it didn't get in the way of anything: http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Update-Survival-Holding-Clamp/dp/B004ZDL2O6

For my general riding, I actually have a trunk bag on my rack and keep things like a first aid kit, eyeglass case and cleaner, sun block, spare batteries (for my lights), and now that the weather's turning, a rain jacket, and such. But the trunk bag slides of easily so I can take it in stores with me. The little wedge bag just stays on my bike.

Edit: I also carry a small pump, mounted on my downtube: http://www.rei.com/product/784569/topeak-peak-master-blaster-dx-ii-mini-pump

Clearly I'm not one of those riders trying to have the lightest ride possible.

u/BraveFlannel · 3 pointsr/bicycletouring

Axiom DLX Streamliner Disc Cycle Rack, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004094HY2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I was able to mount this rack to my cyclocross bike which also doesn’t have any mounting eyelets on it. It worked perfect for me by putting the quick release skewer through the lower mounting points.

And then for the upper mounting points, there are two different options it comes with. Two adjustable arms for bikes that have the normal threaded eyelets on the frame behind the seat. Or a metal arm that bolts to the mounting point for normal brakes.

If you want to use the two adjustable arm option, you can buy a seat clamp that has threaded mounting points in it. Here’s that.

Axiom Trekk Seat Collar w/Rack Eyelets, 31.8mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0025UQ3I6?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Here are some photos of my bike with both the rack and the threaded seat clamp.

https://imgur.com/gallery/5NFpk8M

u/UrbanITx · 3 pointsr/bicycling

+1 on the DLX (make sure you get the Disc one!). Why your LBS didn't mount it to your braze ons is beyond me, but makes any maintenance/tire changes much much easier.

u/ElPimentoDeCheese · 3 pointsr/Midessa

As for a headlight, I have one like this. It's extremely bright and has three settings: high, low, blinking. I feel extremely comfortable with this on my bike and it lasts forever. I also opted for the wide angle lens that I think works great for riding on roads as it doesn't shine directly into the eyes of vehicle drivers.

For a taillight, I have this one. Again, it's got a few options for blinking/solid lights/etc, and the blinking option is super bright. I rode at night once and turned around to see if I could tell how far it was casting and I could see it reflecting off a stop sign about 1-2 blocks away.

One suggestion for a helmet (I don't know your budget), but I backed the Lumos Helmet on Kickstarter and received mine last month. It's awesome, and I feel way more visible with it than with a normal helmet. Plus the turn signals are a major plus!

u/iacobus42 · 3 pointsr/bicycling

I use the Portland Danger Zone and like it. Really bright and attention getting. While not USB rechargable, the battery life seems reasonable.

u/Chromavita · 3 pointsr/bicycling

[Portland Design Works Danger Zone] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00435IPFK?pc_redir=1412172978&robot_redir=1)
It's very bright and affordable.

u/throwawayblaaaarg · 3 pointsr/DIY

I've used one like this with good luck in the past. I think for the price it would be tough to beat doing a DIY version, unless you have lots of scraps lying around.

u/w0rkac · 3 pointsr/Charlotte

Indoor bike trainer stand - barely used, will deliver for $45
https://imgur.com/a/TazDx
Specifically: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004I576SM/ref=pe_385040_30332200_TE_item

White wire shoe rack - $5
https://imgur.com/a/Mg6jM

Paper towel holder - $5
https://imgur.com/SKRPth0

u/mindftw · 3 pointsr/homegym

Seconding the road bike + trainer route - I've had good luck so far with this cheap trainer from Amazon.

u/nrhinkle · 3 pointsr/flashlight

I have one just like that from Amazon. It's definitely not really 1800 lumens, but you also definitely don't need 1800 lumens. The build quality is about what you'd expect for that price, but it does work and is bright. If you get it, you'll want to find a difuser like this for it so you don't get a super-bright spot and no spill. I've ordered one but it's not here yet.

For tail lights, check out my blog post on the subject - last year I reviewed about a dozen tail lights and posted my recommendations. Rechargeable rear lights cost a bit more, but you save a lot more long-term on the battery costs. I'm working on a front lights review but it's taking a while. (Anyone in Oregon have an integrating sphere I can borrow? That's the hold up!)

u/drosser · 3 pointsr/bikecommuting

I hate to be Mr. Contrarian, but those expensive lights that don't have replaceable batteries are just garbage waiting to go to the land fill.

I've been using this setup for over a year.

This battery: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PE6TVFK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This light:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006QQX3C4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this diffuser:
http://www.amazon.com/MagicShine-Gemini-Lights-Headlight-Includes/dp/B004WLCLQY/ref=pd_sim_sg_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1KB6Q8QVD6EJPX4QDBAE

The "crappy" Chinese lights are an excellent deal as long as you recognize that the battery packs aren't reliable. You might get a good one, or you might get crap. But at least you can replace the battery!

u/boojel · 3 pointsr/bikecommuting

I agree. I used to use 3AAA LED flashlight, mounted with velcro or hose clamps. Now I just use generic USB (power bank) bike light that takes this wide angle lens.

u/Stucardo · 3 pointsr/MTB

I have this one and it's good so far. I think the nashbat wrench is probably decent quality too

VENZO Bicycle Bike Torque Wrench Allen Key Tool Socket Set Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00811WQT8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hD4gAb17GQC54

u/Unusual_Steak · 3 pointsr/MTB

I transitioned into working on my bikes almost entirely by myself (Wheel building/suspension service/bearings excluded) and this is the exact path I went down as well. Here is everything I bought from Amazon:

The same $50 tool kit

Torque wrench

Cable/housing/wire cutter

Chain/quick link pliers


Wet/Dry Chain lubes

Park Tool grease

Degreaser

Blue Loctite

Carbon grip paste

And some additional small things like cables, cable end caps, ferrules, zip ties, etc. A set of needle nose pliers can be handy to help push/pull stubborn cables/housings as well.

Also, to make working on the bike 10x easier, I recommend getting a stand. I use this one because I am space constrained and it folds up nice and small, but there are probably better ones out there.

It seems like a lot of $$ to lay out at first, but it pays for itself pretty quickly compared to taking the bike to a shop every time you need to do something to it. Basically everything you need to do can be found on YouTube as well.

u/Zenigata · 3 pointsr/citybike

Most bike lights concentrate the beam straight ahead or behind and don't do much to make you more visible from the side, and when navigating city traffic it's often quite a good thing to be seen from the side. Wheel reflectors are good, and I really think are advisable on both wheels though I prefer spoke reflectors such as these they shine up brighter than most reflectors in headlights but are probably less noticeable than reflectors in daylight.

An even brighter alternative is wheel mounted lights, I recently tried one of these and liked it enough to get some more from my wife and brother. Pretty small and light and surprisingly bright, really makes you much more visible from the side. The best feature is that they turn on automatically when it's dark and they sense movement so it's one less thing to remember to do when you set off. Only had them for a few days so can't say anything about reliability but for £6 I'm happy to risk it.

u/bkbomber · 3 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle
u/ModusPwnins · 3 pointsr/bikecommuting

Other users have mentioned lights and vests, so I'll mention a very cheap, useful visibility enhancement: spoke reflectors.

Put these on the spokes of one half of each of your wheels. (By that, I mean for example on all the spokes of the top half of the wheel when it's at rest.) It will improve your visibility to drivers approaching from the side, and you will be immediately recognizable as a cyclist. The drivers will see reflective strips moving around in circles and immediately think "wheels".

(If you get these, take them off your bike when you clean and re-lube your chain. I learned the hard way that when they get oil/grease on them they lose a lot of reflectivity.)

u/ausstieglinks · 3 pointsr/bicycling
u/appletart · 3 pointsr/bicycletouring

Scotchlite spoke reflectors, you can get them cheaper if you shop around.

u/jameane · 3 pointsr/bicycling

Agreed. I have been using these spoke reflectors:
https://www.amazon.com/Salzmann-Scotchlite-Spoke-Reflector-Bicycle/dp/B00DNG8DSY

If you have silver spokes they are almost invisible.

u/Scotty_steii · 3 pointsr/bikecommuting

Could you explain this more?

As I see it, you want lights that can be charged by USB while they're lit. But you don't want to buy a USB battery charger just for the lights, and you don't want to charge lights at night as well? But by using a battery pack to power stuff, you'd have to recharge the battery pack at night anyway.

EDIT: and a lot of lights, like the Cygolite, charge via usb, so they could be recharged by a USB battery pack

u/nasdreg · 2 pointsr/bicycling

The other replies are right about the lack of mounting holes on the top of the seatstays, and their solutions. Another alternative is that some racks mount onto the centre brake caliper bolt like this one.

u/samyalll · 2 pointsr/FujiJariClub

I’ve had no issues with my Axiom Streamliner disc over a couple hundred km now. Also the thinnest rack I could find at the time.

https://www.amazon.com/Axiom-Streamliner-Disc-Cycle-Black/dp/B004094HY2

u/tony3011 · 2 pointsr/bicycletouring

Axiom DLX Disc Rack fits most bikes. Not extra-wide.

Link: http://amzn.com/B004094HY2

u/jnish · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting
  • Try a dry run on the weekend
  • Go in early in the morning, leave early in the afternoon, if your schedule allows
  • What is your route like? Is there a shoulder? If it is wide enough, you could ride in it so long as it is clear of debris, but traffic may pass closer. Is the road 4 lanes? If so, this allows drivers to pass without changing lanes into oncoming traffic.
  • Are the lanes really wide? If the lanes are wide enough that you feel comfortable with traffic passing you without changing lanes, then you can ride to the right. If not, then position yourself in the middle or left of the lane to encourage drivers to change lanes to pass. See this for more explanation: http://www.bikewalknc.org/2016/01/using-the-left-half-of-the-lane/ (note the chart near the bottom that shows the further right you ride, the less room cars give).
  • Light up! Get both front and rear lights and use them even during the day. I really like this rear light and have been complimented on it.
u/JeremyNT · 2 pointsr/cycling

I like both the PDW Danger Zone and the PDW Aether Demon.

The Danger Zone runs on two AAA batteries (lasts seemingly forever) and has two LEDs. The Aether Demon has only one LED and runs on a rechargeable battery (plug it into USB).

I leave the Danger Zone on my bike. I put the Aether Demon on my helmet.

u/craigske · 2 pointsr/cycling
u/Hewbacca · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

I use this. https://smile.amazon.com/Portland-Design-Works-Danger-Light/dp/B00435IPFK/ Has been bulletproof for years, and I've only changed the battery once.

u/Dingo8urBaby · 2 pointsr/cycling

I recommend checking out /r/bikecommuting. Although it sounds like you have already been commuting by bike, so I apologize if you already know what I'm saying. I'm assuming because you are asking about what you wear for winter cycling that you do not regularly commute in winter/have a short commute.

You will need to get lights for commuting, especially as winter approaches (assuming that you are in the Northern hemisphere). I have the Cygolite Expillion 350 and the PDW Danger Zone. I once read that a blinking rear light is good for being noticed but a solid light is good for driver depth perception, so my helmet has a red light in back that I keep solid in the evening/night. I will eventually get a second real rear light.

As for clothing - what is your climate going to look like this winter? I was commuting in upstate New York and wore generic winter running tights, wool socks, UA coldgear shirt, a down vest, gloves, and a thin scarf that went around my neck and over my head under my helmet. When I wore thick wool mittens over my gloves, I was toasty in that down to 14 F. I never got goggles/glasses, but they would have been nice when it sleeted.

I don't have any cycling specific wear. I re-purpose what I already have or buy things that will work for multiple activities.

I wash my bike (or at least rinse it off) after any ride where salt from the road was kicked up. Last winter I had a toothbrush and would gently scrub my derailleurs to get off the ice and would use a damp rag to wipe it down. Again, I was biking in upstate New York. I have since moved south and don't yet know what this winter will mean for biking. I'm assuming a lot less ice and a lot less salt.

u/laflavor · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

I'm riding this: http://i.imgur.com/Q1SewUi.jpg (Giant Defy 3)

I was lucky enough to get it on clearance, but it was in your price range and has all the mounts for a rack. Taking the rack and U-lock off makes it a pretty nice weekend warrior for longer rides, too.

I'm not using them, but I've heard nothing but good things about Ortliebs. If I ever have to buy new panniers, that's what I'll go with.

I use a Night Rider Lumina Micro 250 for my front light. It works fine, I just have to make sure I charge it. This is the tail light that I use. I can't confirm that either is the "best" but both work fine for my 7 mile morning commutes.

Other things that you might want to look into:

  • A good U-lock, depending on what the situation is at work and whether or not you'll use the bike for anything else. Don't depend on a cheap cable lock, trust me.
  • A cycle computer. I use a pretty cheap wired one, mostly so I can keep track of the time, but I like to try to keep my speed up, too.
  • A seat bag for your spare tube, CO2, patches, tire levers, spoke wrench, and multi-tool. If you need extra storage space you can add one of these.
  • Mini Pump (Yes, I keep CO2 and a pump on my bike)
  • Water bottle cage and water bottle. (Depending on the length of your commute. I live in Phoenix, so this is pretty vital.)
  • You might also want something waterproof for your phone. Where I live this isn't vital, but in some places it would be.


    I think that's all I use.
u/phizbot · 2 pointsr/ebikes

FWIW, I'm in the Pacific Northwest and commute all year.

I've been using this gear with great success and good relative comfort:

http://amzn.com/B00DQZ0S3K

https://www.showerspass.com/products/club-shoe-covers

http://www.columbia.com/mens-evapouration-jacket-RM2023.html

http://amzn.com/B00435IPFK

http://amzn.com/B008KUXRAW

Wear your helmet over your hood, and a pair of regular safety glasses. When it is really cold I add a balaclava and a fleece jacket. Fenders are a must to keep the dirt down, and I use this lube in the winter:

http://amzn.com/B000WYCD5O

I have an old pair of windproof campmor gloves that are no longer made. If you get cold just pedal harder. It almost never happens, I'm usually too hot.

Your bike depends on your distance, speed and budget. Make sure you get disc brakes, mandatory in my opinion for the higher speeds. This is my ride: http://i.imgur.com/bXXJkjS.jpg, just passed 1400 miles. It is BBS02 on a Kona Dew, I've since switched to Schwalbe Marathon tires. Cost about $1100 and has already paid for itself in gas and parking. 35mph for ~10 miles, 25 mph for 30-40 miles.

Oh, and fuck the snow and ice. Those are the days I drive or work from home.

u/danieldoesnt · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

I use this headlight and the PDW Danger Zone for the rear. link

This is the headlight's comparison photo from /u/ishouldnotbeonreddit's post link


Let us know what you go with!

u/Ambalanche · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I bought this Oneinitially and then got a cycleops one second hand from a friend. Other than being slightly more awkward to take the bike on and off of, the cheap trainer is just as nice/quiet.

u/Richgirlhair · 2 pointsr/proED

We have this one but that one looks aweaome! Takes up less space too

u/The_Real_Mr_Deth · 2 pointsr/Warthunder

WT 2018 has lots more vehicles and modes with the same broken repetitive gameplay and worse grind.

That's not meant to discourage you from playing again as it can still be a lot of fun playing WT with friends on Discord.

You probably chose to leave for good reasons though so maybe you can merge the good mental/physical health parts of riding and gaming/socializing by combining the two?

Maybe get something like this and stream while you ride and play indoors? Or just ride indoors and chat online? Or grab a bike riding game like this?

IDK... just throwing ideas out there!

u/ChristieGrey · 2 pointsr/Fitness

I had on of these, it was great. There are a bunch of different brands but here is some on amazon. Definitely get the extra lifts that allow you to raise the front of the bike for more resistance. If you are in shape, you will want those for sure. Have fun! I had to get rid of mine when we moved into a smaller place. A great buy though if you have the space.

Magnet Steel Bike Bicycle Indoor Exercise Trainer Stand by FDW https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004I576SM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_bvYrzb40MGHWR

u/Tia00017 · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I have a fitness wish list, and have never really had to lose weight.1

This would be good, it converts a regular bike into a stationary one for indoor fitness:

http://www.amazon.com/Magnet-Bicycle-Indoor-Exercise-Trainer/dp/B004I576SM/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1459382064&sr=1-1&keywords=indoor+bike+stand

u/veetack · 2 pointsr/cycling

This trainer has really good reviews and a favorable price. I don't have it, but I tend to trust reviews on Amazon.

u/scottbakulasghost · 2 pointsr/gifs

I bought one of these for my normal bike and just spin while I play ssb. My ability at both of these activities has markedly increased.

u/GoDavidGo · 2 pointsr/BikingATX

I second this.. Great light for the price. I would also recommend getting the wide angle lens instead of the default one, it has a much better beam. http://www.amazon.com/Angle-MagicShine-Gemini-Lights-Headlight/dp/B004WLCLQY/ref=pd_bxgy_sg_text_y

u/jediaelthewise · 2 pointsr/Nerf

I have been working on this over the past 2 years. This will be my 4th HvZ game using this rig. We normally have a game in the fall and then in the spring. I got the idea when the magstrike saved my bacon and I wanted to fix the small bladder issue. The speed of them was awesome but pumping it every time was a pain. I looked up some other mods and didn't see anything I liked. I decided I didn't want to the noise of an air compressor so I went with a large backpack mounted tank.

The magstrikes don't fire much stronger than a stock one. I shot them with a stock magstrike and matched them pretty close. Since basically its just a magstrike with a huge bladder, there wasn't much argument against it. I had the mods come personally over to check it out before hand. The fact that I continue to improve on it and make sure it's safe has earned me respect and I even have people referred to me for help to keep them within reasonable limits.

I've worked up a master part list for you with links of where to get most of it too:

---

Parts List

u/hirschmj · 2 pointsr/MTB

Anyone looking to start - imports from China have way lowered the barrier for entry. If you can find a group online that goes, do that or bring a friend, you don't want to get stuck out there without a buddy.

There's a lot of garbage out there too, I've tried several of the imports and found the batteries sorely lacking or the connectors shitty. I can vouch for this one. For bonus points, get this wide angle lens and put it on your bars, plus a normal one on your helmet so you can see where you're looking. If you can only have one, try to find a way to mount it to your helmet.

u/bikie · 2 pointsr/bicycling

This and this.

u/nord1899 · 2 pointsr/MTB

My setup.


Light, get 2: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJZ015Y

Kit for helmet: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QOVA00

Wide angle lens: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004WLCLQY

Put one on your helmet. Put the wide angle lens one on your bars, means when you turn it has less effect on what you can see.

I've had no problem with battery life, but my night rides do tend to be a bit shorter, in the 90 minute range. Use half strength during the climb, full strength on the down.

u/radiantthought · 2 pointsr/ucf

I've got each of these, they're inexpensive and solid lights. I spent over a month researching lights online and found these ones were the best balance of price, performance, and reliability.

This headlight is really nice, comes with a rechargeable battery, and is VERY bright. I would also suggest getting one of these lense replacements so that the beam projects in a wider arc.

This tail light is pretty fantastic as well.

I've got two pairs of those, they work great and are less than a third what competing products go for. I've had them for over six months now and haven't had any issues.

u/yeziam · 2 pointsr/fatbike

Bought two of these; one with a wide angle lens. I've had other lights before but I would regularly override the lights on my 29er so I decided to double up. The narrow beam can easily be aimed higher if riding at higher speeds.

u/k3nnyd · 2 pointsr/MTB

http://amzn.com/B004WLCLQY

You can see customer shots of the light pattern there too.

u/dr3 · 2 pointsr/Austin

$150 for two locks. A nice U-Lock and a nice cable lock presumably. She probably overpaid, but maybe something like this and this.

u/CSM3000 · 2 pointsr/Hamilton

Everything is cuttable. An angle grinder can cut through 1 inch of cable in less than a minute.

2 locks does tend to discourage them especially if one of them is this.

I recommend a thick chain lock for the other lock.

A little pricey, but should last a very long time.

About 2 decades without a theft using this system myself.

u/KEN_JAMES_bitch · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Does she have a U lock? The nice and thick U locks can be somewhat expensive so I think it'd be a good gift.

Also a nice multitool is crucial for serious cyclists to fix stuff on the go and to just have an all in one tool for working on the bike at home.

u/greenbud1 · 2 pointsr/ireland

This is a top lock and what I think is a very fair price: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kryptonite-York-Standard-Flexframe-Bracket/dp/B005YPK9SY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1376401254&sr=8-2&keywords=kryptonite

If not that, try to find a tested and approved lock such as a Sold Secure Gold rated lock: http://www.soldsecure.com/why-do-we-test/

Lastly, consider the Sheldon Brown method or using 2 different types of lock (U-lock + chain. Nearly all cable locks, no matter how thick, are useless). The theory is different locks require different tools to break. However most thieves only carry tools for 1 type of lock and will move on.

u/ummmbacon · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Here are some links:

http://thesweethome.com/reviews/best-bike-lock/

http://www.streetfilms.org/hal-and-kerri-grade-your-bike-locking/

The sweethome recommends the Kryptonite Series 2 package deal which you can get for $32+S&H (also note students can get Amazon prime free for six months).

The second video is a guy from NYC rating people's locking of their bikes. Which is really worth watching, a lot of the time it is more that people don't lock their bikes properly than having a bad lock.

But as Sweethome says if your bike is less than $1K then just use the Kryptonite Series 2.

If it is >$1K then they reccomend the NYC Kryptonite Series. Which is $75 at amazon.

u/yur_mom · 2 pointsr/MTB

That is a loaded question. It depends on the parts you will be torquing since it is highly unlikely you will find one torque wrench that covers all ranges. I personally have a bunch and my favorite brand is the Wera 1-25nm, but they are expensive. I would probably just get the this for lower torque values since it does 2-24nm https://www.amazon.com/VENZO-Bicycle-Torque-Wrench-Socket/dp/B00811WQT8/ref=sr_1_12?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1485446361&sr=1-12&keywords=torque+wrench


and then if you want to do cranks and cassettes you may need a larger one.

u/Bmied31 · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I have a version of this wrench. Mine I got from Nashbar and it's Nashbar branded, but it's the same wrench. Its been a lifesaver, one of the best thing's I've bought tool wise.

https://www.amazon.com/Venzo-Bicycle-Torque-Wrench-Socket/dp/B00811WQT8

u/Cyberdelic-Izzy · 2 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

A set as in multiple Allen keys in different sizes. For handlebars, all you really need is a 4mm, or 5mm.

I recommend to purchase a torque wrench whenever you have some extra cash. If you over tighten bolts down, components pay the ultimate price.

u/aedrin · 2 pointsr/MTB

I purchased this kit and have been really pleased with it:

http://www.amazon.com/VENZO-Bicycle-Torque-Wrench-Socket/dp/B00811WQT8

Assembled a carbon mountain bike with it and have had no problems. It's worth having quality tools.

u/Kahnza · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

I was thinking about buying this one. It looks fairly compact, maybe in the 30cm range.

u/Gretna20 · 2 pointsr/cycling

Yes, get a torque wrench. I have this one and it definitely doesnt feel cheap. Only works in one direction to you cant use it one pedal

u/GseaweedZ · 2 pointsr/bicycling

On Amazon US, this seems to be the best deal. I own it and it works pretty fine. It's also a must if you ever want to build a frame up from scratch.

u/crazycatfishlady · 2 pointsr/xxfitness

I have a gym bag version of a convertible hobo that I love. It's this bag, Calia by Carrie Underwood. I also have grocery basket style panniers for everyday riding that I love because they pop out and I can stick just about everything in them. I may upgrade to some Ortliebs if I start touring or riding in the rain, but for now I love the convenience of just being able to pop the pannier open and throw my bags down.

u/bikesbrewsandbbq · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

https://www.amazon.com/Bushwhacker-Omaha-Bicycle-Grocery-Accessories/dp/B00B4ZKZK0

I have those, works for two huge, heavy bags quite well.

u/papasmurf255 · 2 pointsr/todayilearned

You can get a grocery cart, a bike trailer or panniers.

Half a mile of walking is 10-15 minutes; biking takes 3-5 minutes.

u/onecrazywinecataway · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

Grocery panniers! They're fantastic. Though back in my cheap ass college days I used to just put the bags on the handlebars and deal with it.

u/SofaKingObnoxious · 2 pointsr/gatech

Get a bike and throw some panniers on the back. Biking to AS is very easy.

Biking will make most of midtown, downtown, and the surround areas much more accessible.

u/Aeacus- · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I use these $60 for two basket panniers. I put a reusable grocery sack that will fit both panniers when they are folded up so I can carry them into work. They should work with almost any rack. You can zip tie them if you want to leave them attached to the bike.

u/LousyBeggar · 2 pointsr/bicycling

> I've pulled all my reflectors off my bike, as they're ineffective pieces of crap.

The ones to the front and back are too small to be of much use, but spoke reflectors are the shit.

Talking about these: Link and Demo

u/SAIUN666 · 2 pointsr/EveryDayRide

Trinx KA2007 folding bike.

  • I added some of this type of spoke reflector for a little more visibility since a lot of my riding is at night or evening.

  • I got one of these bags for the rear rack, it's got the reflective stripes on the side and a strap to clip one of my rear lights onto.
u/BromptanTribon · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

In the process of kitting out (or identifying kit for when I have the money) for my new (first full sized) bike and have settled on Cat Eye Rapid X (50 lumens).

You can get more powerful ones ( Rapid X2 and X3) but I'm generally anti bright lights as they're often too dazzling or even hurt my eyes when on other biked - pet peeve). Anyway I ramble, they attach by rubber/stretchy plastic band and come with a larger one for seat tube and smaller one to attach to seat stays or rack or anywhere else you fancy inc. one would assume the ability to orient them outwards/side ways for side viability should you want to (though they've got v v wide angle glow anyway).

Reckon I'd get a few for rack down tubes or seat stays each side vertically and and one horizontally to attach to the rear hanging light plate on the end of the rack to maximise the [strikethrough]Akira Neo Tokyo 2019 motorbike look[/strikethrough] visability (and a couple of front ones on the forks to sit either side of a Busch and Muller Eyro mounted centrally on the fork above the front wheel).

Also these wheel reflectors are a cheap and cheerful fix that I'll do, good at catching car headlights as lower down on the bike where they're generally pointing:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00DNG8DSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_6gZMDb3HDV559

https://youtu.be/_5xC7PI3dyI

Re: Cateye Rapid X, believe they were the first of their kind when they first came out quite a while back but the same/similar lights are sold by different brands. Cheap Chinese ebay jobs available too but not sure if the same or cheap lower quality copies, up to you if you want to risk.

Also going to get Tortec Mudguards that have a reflector strip which user reviews say is v good and helpful. Then some reflective rim tape to boot (and then potentially some 'diamond grade' reflective tape that's used on emergency vehicles to strategically place on points along the frame - yes I want my Neo Tokyo/Tron bicycle).

u/ddrt · 2 pointsr/bicycling

After reading all of the bike stealing threads, bike stolen videos etc. I purchased:
This
and this
and this

I think I'll be good.

u/oasispaw · 2 pointsr/bicycling

i used a kryptonite evolution lock. it's small, so i keep a cable coiled around my seat post for when i can't find anything thin enough to lock my bike to.
i like it: http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-U-Lock-x-5-5/dp/B000AMPRG0/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1247979749&sr=8-10

u/Lieutenant_Crunch · 2 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

I wouldn't get a brooks. They are pricey because they become super comfortable after some use, but the downside is that they are theft magnets. If you get one, lock your saddle with a cable, or take it in with you, but these things go missing on my campus all the time. I'd just ride the stock for a while, when you want to upgrade, go into your LBS and nab one from them.




As for locks, U-lock+Cable in conjunction will be best. If you pick one, do a u-lock. Kryptonite is well-recommended. They have a few models:

The New York is the big boy, nigh indestructible lock. But probably not necessary for a windsor the hour.

Here's what I use, but I sort of regret it. It feels cheaper (because it was cheaper) than other kryptonite locks I've used. The lock itself is fine, but I have trouble with my key after a few months of use (have to jiggle it around for a bit for it to disengage). If you're on a campus or in a smaller town, it'd be fine.

Just ordered this. My buddy has one and it's brilliant. Super light and small (smallness is actually a benefit as far as security). Can fit in your back pocket.

Also: http://sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html

u/Logan_Chicago · 2 pointsr/chicago

I use these for front and rear lights.

This is the most common u-lock that is about as good as it gets. I use this, but the weight is pretty intense.

u/jaw0012 · 2 pointsr/Denton

Bike commuter and UNT grad student here. I don't hear that it's a problem on campus during school hours. You don't say whether or not it will be outside during the night or not.

If you have the money for a nice bike, you have thhe money for a good lock. I use this lock and recommend it heartily. Comes with three keys and is a little harder than others to break since it's smaller and harder to get the tools that thieves use around it. It comes with a handy little mount to for the frame. Like others have said, if you lock just the wheel, you're gonna have a bad time.

u/-Quantumcross · 2 pointsr/cycling

Do you have a mirror? You should get a mirror. It did wonders for my city riding anxiety. I would highly recommend: http://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Original/dp/B000C17M26/

u/mithrandirbooga · 2 pointsr/bicycling

This one is fantastic, in my opinion: http://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Original/dp/B000C17M26/

I've got a backup just in case I lose the first one.

u/Thaix · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I'll be purchasing a bike down the road and don't have any tools for it yet. Would this or something like this multi tool be better for general bike maintenance and on the go?

u/GermanNewToCA · 2 pointsr/ebikes

For me, this: https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-PH-1-2-P-Handled-Wrench/dp/B003FPONCI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541802830&sr=8-2&keywords=park+tool+allen+key&dpID=419-T8tUMxL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

​

I was too stingy to buy good allen keys for a very long time because I had a ton of really cheap ones, and the cheap ones did work. But every time I use the ones above, I think: "These were so worth it". I say that to myself every single time.

​

Not a tool, but since someone else mentioned a tire: 200 miles ago I put on some Maxis Hookworms - best commuting tires I ever had. Wow. I had Vee Chinane and then Vee Speedster before - I got flats every other week, none on the hookworms and the hookworms are much more stable on less grippy surfaces either. Every time I reach a place I think: Wow, those are the best tires I ever had.

​

Other tools I use constantly:

- my bike repair stand, i use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Bikehand-Mechanic-Bicycle-Repair-Stand/dp/B00D9B7OKQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1541802939&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=bikehand+bike+stand&psc=1

- my chain link tool: https://www.amazon.com/d/Bike-Shop-Tools/Park-Tool-Master-Pliers-MLP-1-2/B00D9NW32I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541803019&sr=8-1&keywords=park+tool+chain+link+tool

- A good portable multitool with chainbreaker: https://www.amazon.com/d/Bike-Multifunction-Tools/Topeak-Alien-31-Function-Bicycle-Tool/B000FIE4AE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541803074&sr=8-2&keywords=alien+tool

​

​

u/AttackJacks · 2 pointsr/pelotoncycle

Swapping pedals isn’t difficult, but would definitely be a tedious chore to do on a regular basis. One of the first things I did when I got my bike this past weekend was swap the pedals out for some Shimano SPD-SL pedals. They’re not very expensive and work great on the bike, but your mileage may vary.

As with all bike components there is a strong correlation between weight and price, the lighter an item the more it costs. If you decide to go the pedal route, don’t buy something top of the line. The weight doesn’t matter on a stationary bike like it does in an Ironman.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

Here’s a link to those pedals if you’re interested:

Shimano SPD-SL PD R-540 - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P9TOHQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/bikesandrocks · 2 pointsr/BikeShop

If you have SPD-SL, then this will do the trick: http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-SPD-SL-PD-R-540-Black/dp/B000P9TOHQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1410289416&sr=1-1&keywords=shimano+spd+sl+pedals

They come in white, and the white ones are Prime eligible. I have the 105's, but they are more expensive and only come in carbon these days.

Also, any Shimano pedals you buy will come with cleats, so as long as you get some pedals that support the three bolt pattern, you'll get cleats.

u/lavacahacemu · 2 pointsr/cycling

For the pedals you currently have, it's going to be hard to find cleats, as these are rather old.

If you replace your pedals, you can even use mtb pedals (spd cleats) and mtb shoes. These are usually easier to walk on, but have the disadvantage of being less efficient for pedaling, but only slightly. If you go with proper road pedals, you're probably looking at 3-bolt patterned cleats, so your shoes should accept 3-bolt cleats. Of course, there's also 2-bolt patterned cleats for road bikes, like eggbeaters and spd (non-sl). And yes, you can get shoes that accept both type of cleats. The good news is that pedals usually come with cleats, if you're getting shoes at the same time, make sure they're compatible.


As for the bonus, check your tires, bar tape, maybe even the saddle. Definitely get your drivetrain checked, but that would have come back as recommended upgrades from your LBS.

u/cshoe · 2 pointsr/BikeShop

I have these brand new and still in the box.

PM your address and I'll send them to you.

Edit: Might not be the style you're looking for...

u/Domesteader · 2 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

Well it depends on what you want them for. For pure performance, power-transfer, and security, I would say SPD-SL. The downside is that you can't really walk around with SPD-SL cleats. I use these on my road bike and for long (all-day) rides on my fixie. For general everyday riding, I use SPD (mtb) pedals and DZR shoes. MTB pedals don't lock in as tight and have more float than road pedals. DZR shoes are easier to walk around in than most cleats, and better looking, but not as stiff as other shoes.

u/SoldierOnce · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting
u/twowhlr · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

I got a Wald W582BL 582 Rear Folding Bicycle Basket (12.75 x 7.25 x 8.5, Black and the only installation issue was making sure that it was far enough back so that the heel of my big foot didn’t hit it while pedaling. It’s served me pretty well but needs a little silicone spray periodically to keep the folding points and locking latch moving smoothly.

Edit: url

u/mellofello808 · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

I love my pannier setup but unfortunately it has been discontinued. I use the Timbuktu mission tote, or their pannier messenger bag if I am going out.

I think Blackburn makes a similar product.

On the other side I have a wal collapsible basket that lives there permanently. It is perfect for a 12 pack or one grocery bag. [It folds down very nicely](Wald 582 Rear Folding Bicycle Basket (12.75 x 7.25 x 8.5, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012DZEBY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_u8HEAbDZQ23HG)

My main issue with most panniers is that there really is no convenient way to carry them off of the bike. If you live in a city it is not wise to leave them on there when off the bike.

u/large_thin · 2 pointsr/fatlogic

That should work. Here's the one I have: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0012DZEBY.

There are other brands, but I can't speak to their quality as I've only used Wald's. I've had two (one stayed with a bike I sold) and they held up just fine for years, even in my rainy city. The one on my current bike was hard to attach (previous bike was super easy) but it was doable and makes it practically theft-proof.

Make sure it will fit your rear rack. It will be fine with almost any rack, but I've some really weird ones that don't seem like they'd work with anything, even pannier clips. You'd know if you had one already, though. 😀

u/kornkobcom · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

Or you could get a collapsible basket and put your backpack in the basket.

u/NapoleonThe12th · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I use a combination of Nashbar Townie Basket and classic wire basket. I use the wire basket for things that would cause the Townie to collapse. I use the Townie for things that would be small enough to fall through the wire basket or would get damaged being forced into the metal.

u/kwaaaaaaaaa · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I carry a spare "spoke" which is this repair kit w/ a kevlar string to apply tension where there's a missing spoke. It's better than doing a temporary truing job (which can risk other spokes breaking) and it''ll work on most wheels instead of only having your own spoke size/type (good for when a stranger/friend breaks theirs).

Another "you never know when you'll need it" thing is a universal derailluer hanger. Which is funny because I'm kind of a prepared guy and thought it will be one of those things I'll never ever use but have peace of mind. The very next day that it came in the mail, I ended up using it on a stranger's bike.

Edit: this is it

u/boredcircuits · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Doesn't help you now, but something handy for next time.

This is a trick long-distance touring cyclists use, as a broken spoke for them will strand them in the middle of nowhere. Basically, it replaces a spoke for emergency situations. You don't need tools to install it, though removing the old spoke can be a trick if it's on the rear wheel.

For your current situation, I would avoid riding the bike. If you really have to ride, remove the broken spoke (or wrap it around or tape it to an adjacent spoke). Adjust adjacent spokes to get it close to true, and maybe open the rear brake so that it doesn't rub.

Definitely treat it gingerly while you ride. Go slow, avoid potholes and curbs. Stay in the saddle. The more spokes on that wheel, the better the chances you'll have of the wheel turning out OK in the end.

The good news is that broken spokes are generally cheap and easy to replace. If it's a front wheel, all you need is a spoke wrench and a replacement spoke. If it's a rear wheel, you'll need the tools to remove the cassette (lockring remover and chain whip). My LBS charges about $20 or $25 to fix a spoke.

The bad news is that the LBS might take some time to fix the wheel. You might need to bribe the mechanic to get the job done while you wait, or expect to take other transportation in the meantime.

u/winkers · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

The one thing that I almost never see in people's tool bag is an emergency spoke replacement. It weighs almost nothing, will not 'go bad' in your bag after years, and will save you if you break a spoke miles from home. It saved my butt on a couple of long rides through the years.

https://www.amazon.com/FiberFix-Emergency-Spoke-Replacement-Kit/dp/B001GSMQZC

u/micro_cam · 2 pointsr/MTB

I don't do enduro's but I do a lot of remote mountain riding. Generally I try to carry as little as possible, about what you list for rides near the road. If i'm somewhere remote i'll pack like a climber or hiker and bring some light weight variant of "the 10 essentials" so I won't die if I get lost or injured.

Extra clothes take up a lot of space for not much weight. I often like to carry a warm layer like a patagonia nano puff pullover and a wind shell to wear on long descents. I figure these are my "maybe i won't freeze to death if I injure myself and have to spend the night out layer" and their also nice if you decide to take a lunch break on a windy ridge or something.

Your repair kit looks pretty good you could get one of these and maybe some chamois butter.

Maybe a non CO2 (ie reusable) pump like a leyzene alloy drive (high volume hand pump that might be able to set a tubless tire). This lets you both deal with multiple flats and adjust tire pressure for different surfaces.

Maybe a half used roll of athletic tape (ie minimalist first aid kit).

A couple of spare energy bars and tablets for water purification are also nice if you're going somewhere remote.

A sunglass case with swappable lenses for your glasses or a pair of clear/light glasses+ normal sunglasses is also nice for variable light.

A light headlamp like a petzl tika is nice 'just in case.'

u/CreatineBros · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Assuming you can get the cassette off, you'll be ready for anything. If you really want to be ready for anything, throw one of these in your bag. Or, alternatively, you can carry one of these to get your cassette off in a pinch, and back on.

u/SirTwitchALot · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I wrap my tube in an old sock. It helps protect it a little and also gives me something to use as a rag.

I also carry an emergency spoke

u/Pythe · 2 pointsr/bicycletouring

Having gone through at least five different mirror styles, I highly recommend the eyeglass/helmet mounted Take a Look by Bike Peddler. I've had one mounted to my visor for nearly ten years now. Made in the USA!

https://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Mirror/dp/B001VTQNVO?th=1&psc=1

u/beard-maketh-the-man · 2 pointsr/bicycling

http://www.reddit.com/r/ukbike/comments/1gje99/had_to_upgrade_my_helmet_mirror/camv10l

I use a "Take a Look" helmet mirror (well I put it on my shades), it's perfect.

No shaking around like my old one did, wider so I can see much more of what's going on behind me with ease. I can't ride comfortably without them, I hate not knowing what's developing behind me constantly.

http://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Mirror/dp/B001VTQNVO

u/TheChosenHalfBlood · 2 pointsr/longboarding

lol my b. Here ya go LINK

u/emceelane · 2 pointsr/santacruz

Get a quality U-lock and locking skewers.

u/kw0ww · 2 pointsr/NYCbike

oh sorry. it's a locking skewer set. it's not 100% fool proof, but it would make removing quick release tires, your seat and/or handle bars take a lot more time and effort. i got them so that i wouldn't have to use one of the big chain locks. i don't know much at all about working on bikes and i was able to install them myself no problem.

u/aleafinwater · 2 pointsr/lockpicking

I recently purchased the Abus Bordo Granit X-Plus 6500 Foldable Lock and the Pinhead Bicycle Locking Skewer Set and while they were a little pricey, I'm definitely happy with these products and my newfound bicycle safety.

u/geckoblue545 · 2 pointsr/whichbike

Option A that goes against N+1: Crud roadracer 2 fenders and an Axiom Streamliner rack.

Option B: N+1 Cross bike/ light tourer/ randonneur. Unless your stem is slammed on a short headtube race geometry bike you should be able to replicate your current position on a new bike relatively easily. While considering N+1 also consider disc brakes and wider tires.

u/Krackor · 2 pointsr/cycling

Here's the Axiom rack mentioned by parent comment. It attaches at the skewer and rear brake post, so no special mounting equipment needed. I have one and have used it for two multi-day tours with no major issues. The short chainstays on racing bikes can potentially cause some interference between your heel and the front of your panniers depending on how big the panniers are and how far forward they are clipped on, but it's not that big a deal.

u/cinemafia · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

I use one of these on my Trek, it mounts via the brake caliper screw and the rear wheel's skewer, so it will work on any road bike, and can actually support a good deal of weight.

u/thefourthchipmunk · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

I think I have that rack, this is my rack

Axiom DLX Streamliner Road Cycle Rack, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0025UCXEO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YJOrybPKAG2WZ

I have it on my carbon road bike. With a stopwatch it took me five minutes to take on or off, and so when I ride with other people I take it off so they don't give me funny looks :)

u/Janununuh · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

The seat clamp is a good option. Another choice is a rack that attaches to the caliper mount, like the Axiom Streamliner, but I'm not sure if that will interfere with your brakes or not.

u/RedOctobyr · 2 pointsr/lawnmowers

Then you'll lose the lubricant again, unfortunately :) There are dry lubricants that can help, while avoiding attracting dust/grit.

There is a bike lube that I like for stuff like this, Finish Line Dry Lubricant. It goes on as a clear liquid, and dries dry, which is really nice. It's handy for a range of things around the house, it doesn't leave a mess like oil, and it doesn't attract grit.

This is the liquid version, there is also an aerosol can type:
Finish Line Dry Bicycle Chain Lube with Teflon - 4oz Squeeze Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IDZXRM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vivxDbKQY3FYN

u/PelloScrambas · 2 pointsr/MTB

Just regular Finish Line dry lube.

u/commanderchurro · 2 pointsr/bicycling
u/htims05 · 2 pointsr/pelotoncycle

I've heard of getting the bi-metal cleats from peloton (chat) to using a dry teflon lube very sparingly on the cleats (like apply it with a q-tip) - https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Bicycle-Chain-Teflon/dp/B002IDZXRM/

u/TheeMilkmen · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Just did some lubing on some ambers earlier this week and I used Dupont dry lube with teflon and just used it on the sliders and the housings with a small paint brush and it was set. The switches felt great for me and are very highly recommended if you fork over the money.

u/gabedamien · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Recommend checking out the vintage section at bikeforums. Some tricks:

An oxalic acid bath for a day or so works well for removing rust from steel (but don't use it on aluminum). Flitz polish, which I used for a lot, requires a lot of "elbow grease" but gets a good shine on things – including paint (make sure the decals are below the clearcoat!), but it does strip the satin anodizing off of aluminum. WD-40 removes a lot of dried-on crud that mere soap and water fail to solvate. If a brake bolt is rusted into the frame, drip WD-40 onto it, use a block of wood as a buffer and smash it with a hammer. If the quill stem is stuck/rusted, unscrew the stem bolt a few mm, use a buffer and smash it with a hammer. - this will loosen the expander wedge. Turning the seatpost (keep the saddle attached) in one constant direction while pulling up is the best way to gradually remove it if it's stuck - twisting it back and forth will gouge it in a particularly ugly fashion. Um... get an adjustable (aka "crescent") wrench, I don't think a single nut on this bike worked with my normal wrenches.

That's all I can think of at the moment. Basic bike stuff also applies, like greasing the threads of every bolt and (almost) every metal-metal contact point (the cranks are supposed to be a dry press fit, though!), and lubing all the pivots & springs & whatnot. I like synthetic SuperLube with PTFE for grease, and a dry chain lube with Teflon for lubricant.

u/sr_maxima · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting
  • Tubes: anything you find will work
  • Patch kit: I like Einstein's patch kit because the patches are small, thin, and have feathered edges. Rema patches work too, but they're larger. I prefer small patches because the vast majority of tube failures are small punctures and the patch is already a zillion times larger than the hole. I dislike sticker patches and I don't trust them.
  • Bike pump: The Lezyne pressure drive is small and dependable. Get the carbon fiber one if you want to save grams. I don't use a CO2 inflater because I think they are wasteful and of limited utility.
  • Seat post bag: Really, anything will work
  • Water bottle: Whatever you have lying around.
  • Multitool: I like the Topeak Hexus II. It is compact, and has most of the tools you'll need for on-the-road fixes, including a chain tool.
  • Pliers: There is NOTHING on your bike that you should use pliers on. Use the proper tools for the job.
  • Tire levers: Any will work, but my favorites are the Soma steel core.
  • Rear light: Anything will do. I like the Planet Bike Superflash.
  • Front light: This totally depends on how often you commute in the dark, and what your environment is like. If you're riding on well-lit city streets, your needs will differ a lot from someone riding on rural roads or unlit trails. I use a SON generator hub with the Lumotec IQ Cyo and the combination is awesome. But not everyone needs that kind of setup.
u/misternicholas · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Does he have a saddle bag with a tube & tools? I seriously love this little multi tool & don't feel safe riding without it:
http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-60102538-Hexus-II-Multi-tool/dp/B0037N32VG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1323227668&sr=8-3

u/justanothersurly · 2 pointsr/cycling

Tools. Most people don't have proper bike tools, so that would be a great surprise. You can either get a decent multi-tool (get one with a chain-breaker and tire wrenches) or a variety of Park Tools. Here are some Park Tools that I find invaluable: 3-way hex, chain cleaning tools, pedal wrench, and/or a chain whip

This bar tape is amazing 3mm Fizik performance. Tape should be replaced semi-regularly, but most people don't, so it would be a great surprise gift. Black looks good on almost every bike.

u/runningscared · 1 pointr/bicycling

I like my Kryptonite Mini with a cable to lock up the front wheel. Also, once I got everything dialed in and I knew I wouldnt be making anymore adjustments, I superglued a bb into all the hex key heads so people couldnt steal my saddle and other bits. Its a bit of a pain to dig the glue out to repair stuff but at least I know my bike and bits will be waiting for me when I return.

u/scottbruin · 1 pointr/bicycling

I second Sheldon Brown's locking strategy. I have a Kryptonite Evolution Mini which I got from a company through Amazon (cheaper than in stores). U-locks are most commonly defeated with a jack (like a car jack) but this is small enough that there won't be left over space to fit a jack in.

I use the Sheldon Brown method as described in another comment. This is perfect for parking meters and street signs in an urban area.

Also, don't buy a super expensive bike = less to worry about. And, don't park it in the same place for a long while (friend's bike got stolen because he left it on campus for 3 days) or same place every day on the street (e.g. if you commute) as the experienced thieves will look for targets.

P.S. What city are you in?

u/wondertwins · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

Do you think this lock will be big enough to lock like that?

u/SteenerNeener · 1 pointr/bicycling

I use one of these guys on my glasses. Had a lot of isues with helmet-mounted ones not staying stuck, and wound up super-gluing the last one to my previous helmet so needed a different option when I bought a new one.

Some people think they're dorky, but 'eh. I like it, and IMO its safer than turning my head 180 degrees to look behind me.

u/protiotype · 1 pointr/bicycling

Not to mention you end up momentarily taking your eyes off where you're heading in the time it takes to turn and turn back. It's remarkable how much "nervous energy" is saved from not having to check back as much as I used to. Of course, I still do shoulder checks before changing lines but it's very useful for situational awareness (just think of the number of times you've approached other cyclists and pedestrians like a ninja).

http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/mirrors.html

http://www.icebike.org/Equipment/cyclingmirrors.htm

http://bicycletouringpro.com/blog/selecting-a-mirror-for-your-bicycle-tour/

http://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Original/dp/B000C17M26

Just a few links I went through before ultimately deciding on the "Take A Look" (compact) after comparing the reviews to see what would suit me (I ended up getting mine from ebay for what it's worth).

The 3rd link has one that attaches on your sunglasses lens, which I think is pretty neat (and not dorky) - but unfortunately, I don't wear sunglasses. I've also heard of ones that fit on the end of drop bars rather discretely. I wonder why the Tour de France pros don't make use of it in a poker-face sense - perhaps UCI has it banned??

Having a mirror allows me to "take the lane" so much more easily particularly when I know there isn't a car gaining up on me before I hear it through the rush of wind in my ears. Also handy for using up the whole narrow bike path without getting in anyone's way for greater visibility around bends, etc. And I haven't even mentioned silly commuter racing yet. ;)

u/SirTrollALot · 1 pointr/bicycling
u/Gnomeslime · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

There are a few types of mirrors. If you wear glasses I highly recommend https://www.amazon.ca/Peddler-Take-Look-Eyeglass-Original/dp/B000C17M26/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1459400966&sr=8-10&keywords=bicycle+mirror. I think it also works on a helmet visor, but I've only ever worn it on my thick-framed glasses.

u/Nightshade400 · 1 pointr/cycling
u/ilewis33 · 1 pointr/cycling

I see you have a bar end mirror. I found mine to be next to useless due to vibration and having to look down at just the right angle. I switched to an eyeglass mounted mirror (this one: https://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Original/dp/B000C17M26/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521389679&sr=8-3&keywords=bike%2Bpeddler&th=1&psc=1) and feel a whole lot better about my situational awareness. A lot of people pooh-pooh mirrors, but I will not go out without mine anymore. A quick glance to the left lets me know what's happening behind me. Can I relax? Are cars moving over appropriately? Should I prepare to slow down and go in the ditch (I'll take that over a sideswipe any day).

u/chewinthecud · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

I have this mirror, it can be worn on glasses or a helmet.

I rode for a couple months before I started looking for mirrors. I didn't want a handle mirror because of it being stationary, but wasn't sure if something on my helmet would be annoying. That first ride I got adjusted to it - Ha! - I've actually glanced up to the left (where mirror would be) when I've heard something in the office, so I've definitely got used to it.

I will say that even with the mirror, there are times when turning and looking is the BEST option. Don't rely on your ears and mirrors have blind spots too. That's the advice I was given when I started commuting.

u/hiddenjumprope · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

I was terrified too OP, I actually made a post myself not to long ago. I'm really happy I went through with it, the fear never goes away but it does get better. So far I've not had any accidents nor gotten hit. Like everyone says, make sure you're visible and you are predictable. Know the hand turn signals, get a reflective yellow vest and wear it every time you ride, same with lights. Consider a review mirror that attaches to your helmet or glasses. I was skeptical at first, but it is really helpful and does help a bit with anxiety. Make sure to still look over your shoulder though.

It might be good to start out small too, ride some bike paths if you have any near you (and if you can take them to where you need to go, do so. I find them better myself, I'm lucky that most of my commute to school is on a bike path. Wish my work commute was the same way).

Good luck and have fun! It's been a lifechanger for me, I'm feeling better, getting fitter, and I think I might be loosing weight even. And it's a lot of fun.

u/lovelikepie · 1 pointr/MTB

If your wheels do not require an expensive tool, and just use the regular wrench, the procedure is very easy. Turn your bike upside down and use your brakes to determine straightness, if you have rim brakes. Then use the wrench to tension the side its out and un-tension the side its in.

this video is helpful
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svMMaGMsIMw

The tool I use is really cheap and works fine:
http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Alien-26-Function-Bicycle-Tool/dp/B000FIE4AE

u/fuckyeahjake · 1 pointr/cycling

Get yourself a solid bike multi-tool such as this one, and a portable tire pump. Those will take care of 99% of things that'll happen on your average commute.

It wouldn't hurt to have some spare tubes, but the last time I tried changing a tire on my bike, it snowballed into an $80 repair for a new chain and derailleur, so I've vowed not to do that again.

u/Mesrae · 1 pointr/cycling

I never leave home without my Alien 2 multitool. Highly recommended.

http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Alien-26-Function-Bicycle-Tool/dp/B000FIE4AE

u/fefillo · 1 pointr/MTB

I really like my Topeak Alien II
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FIE4AE

u/SaladBaron · 1 pointr/MTB

I picked up this Topeak Alien II but it doesn't have pliers or a knife but I do have an small leatherman which does. I figured a 26-function would cover most of things that could come up but I'm interested in what you dig up.

Edit: You're awesome. Thanks, man!

u/CPOx · 1 pointr/bicycling

I'm a new road cyclist (less than 250 miles total so far) and I'm looking for some advice about clipless pedals. I currently have the Shimano SPD-SL PD-R540, and even at the lightest setting I find that unclipping is a little difficult. I've already had one fall and a couple near misses where I've been able to unclip in time at the last moment.

After my fall, my confidence is a bit shaken. So I'm wondering if I should stick with these and try to master the mechanics, or if other pedal options like SPD or another manufacturer are inherently "easier" to unclip from?


edit: Most of my rides so far have been between 10-30 miles each on either a dedicated bike path or neighborhood streets.

u/dumboy · 1 pointr/bicycling

I love the 7.2 FX, it was my primary bike for about a year - a real "do everything" machine.

as you approach 30-40 mile rides, the seat gives you "hotspots", the grips give you blisters, the tires wear out after maybe 1200 miles, and the original eggbeater pedals squeek & fall apart.

I've yet to actually go clipless on my road bike (I know, I know), so I can't speak about that, but if distance is your primary goal then padded shorts, a new saddle, ergon grips, riding gloves & better tires are things I bought first, and I'd do it that way again. If performance is your primary goal or you already have those things, then yes - the next upgrade I would have made myself would have been the pedals.

I got 50-60 mile rides out of the 7.2 without clipless pedals, but that was mostly brute force rather than equipment. I don't mean to be a jerk, but honestly - it isn't a bike made for very very long distance. The 150-250 a good set of clipless pedals and shoes cost you can put you well on your way to a decent road bike much more comfortable on long distance rides. Don't worry, there are still plenty of excuses to go back to the FX for various riding. Just my experience, personally.


I picked myself up a pair of Shimono PD-R540's off Amazon before my morning ride just today - about 1/2 the price of the two LBS's I checked.

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-SPD-SL-Road-Pedals-Black/dp/B000P9TOHQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1335742964&sr=1-1

u/lebaronslebaron · 1 pointr/bicycling

I ride with these and I absolutely love them. They do everything I want them too. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P9TOHQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/mindfolded · 1 pointr/bikewrench
u/Vernion · 1 pointr/bicycling

These are the pedals I have recently purchase.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P9TOHQ/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So far so good, have not rode too much in them just yet (20 miles) but I am enjoying them as of to date.

u/MaximusRuckus · 1 pointr/bicycling

To be fair, I have a commuter and a road bike so I switch bikes dependent on what I am doing that day. I usually commute on that one in the photo, and then use my road bike, which is similar to the mercier but with drop bars for recreation and exercise-longer distance bike rides.

The Dawes is a heavier bike that will be much more comfortable due to having fatter tires, and suspension on the seat post and the fork. With the added features it makes it more suitable for rugged conditions such as uneven sidewalks or streets, or if you had to hop off a curb in an "oh shit" moment.

The mercier is a lighter bike with thinner tires with no suspension whatsoever, making it more uncomfortable if you have to get off of uneven pavement. Saying that, this one is well suited if you want to take longer bike trips, if you "gotta go fast"

Here is the bike basket you were talking about Wald 582

http://www.amazon.com/Wald-Folding-Bicycle-Basket-12-75/dp/B0012DZEBY

The great thing about them is that they fold flat and take up no space. (someone else's photo)

http://imgur.com/gxhGfht



u/ferrarisnowday · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

I'd say it depends mostly on your alternatives. If something happens that won't let you ride home (mechanical, partial-theft, or weather) what are your alternatives? Can you walk or take a bus? Can you take your bike on the bus? Can you call someone for a ride? Will that person have room for your bike in their vehicle?

If something happens on the way to work, are you risking serious repercussions if you're late, or would you just have to call in and they'll understand?

So there's a whole spectrum of stuff you could carry, and it's based on "what would happen if I didn't carry it? Is it worth the hassle of carrying this?"

Personally I have a 4 mile commute, with bus routes or walking routes available through out. Being late for work would kinda stink, but not put me in any serious trouble. So for me that means I don't carry things like tubes, spokes, cable adjusters, etc. The risk of having to haul my bike on a bus or drive back to pick it up later is worth avoiding the hassle of carrying around extra gear every day.

Since you asked for examples, this is what I carry:

Mounted to bike

  • U-Lock

  • Cable Lock (for wheels and seat)

  • Mini hand powered air-pump

  • Water bottle holder

    Rear Cargo Rack

  • a Collapsible Wald Basket, I love this because I can fold it out of the way when I'm not carrying anything. It's always there and I don't have to decide whether or not I want to bring it.

  • Mini bunjee cords wrapped around the rack. I can use this to secure larger objects to the rack or basket. I rarely use them, but it's so easy to carry them why not?

    A handlebar bag mounted on top of my rear rack

  • Wallet, phone

  • Hex wrench set for quick adjustments

  • Fix-a-flat can (probably should get rid of this as it takes up a lot of space)

  • some spare bike-size screws rolled up in a piece of tape

  • A very small first aid kid (band aids, gauze, over the counter pain meds)

  • An emergency granola bar (has saved me a couple times when I'm 20 miles from home on a loosely planned ride)

    Run of the mill Reusable shopping bag (placed in basket)

  • Work shirt (I ride in a t-shirt)

  • Keys

  • Tums (for me this is a must!)

  • Deodorant

  • Lunch, if I brought one

  • Work ID

  • Wipes

  • Dollar store rain poncho

  • Comb (beware of helmet hair)
u/underpopular · 1 pointr/underpopular

>Running errands: Right now, I take my bike to the grocery store 60% of the time. But an average bike right off the sales floor isn’t equipped for hauling even a small amount of groceries, and if you don’t want to ride back home with your knees banging the shopping bags hanging from your handlebars, you’ll need to add some accessories to your bike before biking your groceries home isn’t a gigantic pain in the ass.
>
> Rack: Pretty simple. Putting a rack on your bike massively extends its utility. You can hang a pannier (more on them later) from the rack instead of using a backpack, keeping your back sweat-free. With the addidion of a bungee cord or more permanent strap system, you can hold things on top of it. If your bike has disc brakes, you may need a wider rack to accommodate the extra wide axle. Also, some bikes with unusual geometry may require extra-long bars for installing the rack. This and the folding basket below are probably the trickiest accessories to install, and where you might be better off having them professionally installed.
>
>
Folding basket: This was a major piece of the puzzle for me. I didn’t want my bike permanently widened out with a pair of baskets off the rack. But I also wanted to be prepared to stop and do some shopping on my way home without worrying about how I would carry everything. The folding rack was the perfect solution. When I need it, it unfolds in a couple seconds and I can put stuff in it. When I don’t need it, or space is tight, it folds up quickly and it’s more or less unnoticeable off the side of my bike. It means I can make unexpected stops while on my bike to pick up a few things without having to double back in my car later. I have this Wald one, and it’s very nice. It was quite a pain to install though. Be prepared for a bit of frustration if you go the DIY route. This was the one part of these accessory installs that I used a power tool.
>
> Pannier: I mentioned this one a bit under weather. The one I have and love is this Banjo Brothers waterproof pannier and backpack. It nearly effortlessly turns from one to the other and since it’s waterproof I can take it every time. The first time I biked to a shopping mall, locked my bike up, and turned my pannier to a backpack and went shopping, I felt like a goddamn superhero. This flexibility takes a lot of anxiety out of running errands on my bike.
>
>
Water bottle cages: Pretty self-explanatory. Carry water with you when you bike. I have 2 mounted, one on the down tube at a diagonal, and one on the seat tube vertical. I can carry my coffee mug in there without spilling too much. You shouldn’t have to sacrifice your second cup of coffee just because you want to bike in.
>
> Compact shopping bags: Not really sure what to call these, other than the brand name I know, Chico Bags. They fold up into a small size and unfold quickly. You can get sling ones to go over your shoulder, or the smaller ones easily go into the folding basket. Just a good thing to with you for unexpected stops.
>
>
Kickstand: A lot of people are surprised when bikes don’t automatically come with kickstands. And for a lot of people, a kickstand doesn’t make sense for the kind of riding they do. I am using my bike to commute, and am more interested in convenience than weight. I got a two-legged kickstand for added stability. Keep in mind, not every single bike will accept every kickstand. If you get one with a top plate like this standard one that every bike store carries, it will work for 90% of the bikes you would expect to take a kickstand. If you bought a $5,000 tri bike with areo bars and bladed spokes for reduced wind drag, you’re not going to get a kickstand on there, sorry. Also, kickstands come in a set length and may need to be cut down with a hacksaw to fit your bike. You should be able to turn the handlebars all the way from left to right without the bike falling over. If you don’t feel comfortable measuring and cutting a kickstand, consider taking it to a bike shop.
>
>Clothing/comfort: A pair of cushioned bike shorts makes a ride a lot more enjoyable. But they’re also a lot less comfortable for anything else you’re doing. Unless you’re going to bring a change of clothes with you, bike shorts aren’t a practical piece of attire once you step off your bike. It’s not necessary to get spandexed up to ride the bike, but casual clothing does present some barriers to biking. Here’s a couple common issues and how I address them.
>
> Comfortable saddle: We’re not talking about a carbon fiber road bike with skinny tires and aero bars here, we’re talking about a commuter bike. Hopefully you figured that out while installing the fenders, rack and folding basket. Saddles come in all shapes, sizes, and materials. And second only to making sure you have the right sized bike, this is the single most important element for your comfort. Find a saddle that makes sense for the type of riding you do, and if that means it’s a gel-cushioned saddle, then go for it. Find one that doesn’t rely on the cushioned posterior of bike shorts to let you ride comfortably.
>
>
Pedals/Shoes: This is a big one. If I had to stop and consider what kind of shoes I’m wearing when deciding to ride or drive, it would cut down my biking drastically. Here’s a secret: most bikes are sold with the cheapest pedals available. Even fancy bike shop bikes are shipped with cheapo pedals. Some, like $5,000 road bikes, aren’t shipped with any pedals at all, because they know that pedals are one of the first things serious riders replace. That means if you haven’t installed new pedals, your bike is probably equipped with cheap pedals that aren’t designed for the kind of riding you do or the shoes you will wear. Sometimes, just upgrading to a pair or metal pedals with more grip might do the trick. There are also systems with toe cages that will let you strap your feet in. I find these to be more of a pain than they’re worth. If you’re not going to strap your feet in for every ride, they’re a hassle as the added weight makes the cages naturally hang upside down. There’s also clipless systems, but those involve special shoes and cleat systems which are more complicated than the type of riding we’re discussing here. If you’ve ever seen someone in biker gear in the store or coffee shop and they click with every step like they’re wearing horseshoes, those are clipless shoes.
>
>What I recommend is a platform pedal like these I have a similar pair on my bike. They work and feel just like a normal bike pedal. Designed for winter adventure biking, the large pins grip effortlessly onto every kind of shoe for an effortless connection. I can ride my bike while wearing my heavy-duty safety toe boots without any problems. Some of the ones I saw on Amazon are just as cheap as any other pair of pedals. I would recommend at least getting metal ones.
>
>Pedals come in two standards, ½” and 9/16”. This measurement is the diameter of the spindle that screws into your crank. Kid’s bikes and BMX bikes are usually ½”, adult bikes are almost always 9/16”. Make sure the pedals you get are the correct spindle size. Swapping out pedals is fairly easy, every pedal I encountered will come off with either a 15mm wrench or 6mm Allen wrench. One thing to watch out for is the left pedal is reverse threaded. It will unscrew to the right and tighten to the left. Remember it with this simple mnemonic: Your left foot goes on the left pedal and it tightens to the left. Any pair of pedals you get will have the left and right clearly marked. Double-check it before installation to avoid an expensive problem.
>
>* Outerwear: Naturally the weather will be a bigger impact on your day if you’re biking rather than driving. Nice days are nicer, bad weather days are worse, and even the moderate days can be a bit challenging when you’re kitting up for some bike-based errands. If it’s one of those days where you can’t decide on short or long sleeves, biking can make these decisions even more difficult. Chilly days get chillier once you start pedaling at 10-15 miles per hour, but bundle up too much and you can overheat. The real problem here is the wind of your own passage. A fluffy sweatshirt can keep you warm when you’re walking along, but wind can blow right through it. I recommend a light windbreaker like this one I found in REI’s Outlet. It will keep the wind off, but is light enough to keep you from overheating on those days where the sun is playing peekaboo. An added benefit of paying a bit more for bike specific gear is they’re often designed with high-visibility stripes for extra safety. It’s far from fashionable, but you can get a hi-vis vest pretty cheap. They’re lightweight to not really impact your ride and can be easily stowed if you want to stop catching everyone’s eye once you step off your bike.
>

u/FrontpageWatch · 1 pointr/longtail

>Running errands: Right now, I take my bike to the grocery store 60% of the time. But an average bike right off the sales floor isn’t equipped for hauling even a small amount of groceries, and if you don’t want to ride back home with your knees banging the shopping bags hanging from your handlebars, you’ll need to add some accessories to your bike before biking your groceries home isn’t a gigantic pain in the ass.
>
> Rack: Pretty simple. Putting a rack on your bike massively extends its utility. You can hang a pannier (more on them later) from the rack instead of using a backpack, keeping your back sweat-free. With the addidion of a bungee cord or more permanent strap system, you can hold things on top of it. If your bike has disc brakes, you may need a wider rack to accommodate the extra wide axle. Also, some bikes with unusual geometry may require extra-long bars for installing the rack. This and the folding basket below are probably the trickiest accessories to install, and where you might be better off having them professionally installed.
>
>
Folding basket: This was a major piece of the puzzle for me. I didn’t want my bike permanently widened out with a pair of baskets off the rack. But I also wanted to be prepared to stop and do some shopping on my way home without worrying about how I would carry everything. The folding rack was the perfect solution. When I need it, it unfolds in a couple seconds and I can put stuff in it. When I don’t need it, or space is tight, it folds up quickly and it’s more or less unnoticeable off the side of my bike. It means I can make unexpected stops while on my bike to pick up a few things without having to double back in my car later. I have this Wald one, and it’s very nice. It was quite a pain to install though. Be prepared for a bit of frustration if you go the DIY route. This was the one part of these accessory installs that I used a power tool.
>
> Pannier: I mentioned this one a bit under weather. The one I have and love is this Banjo Brothers waterproof pannier and backpack. It nearly effortlessly turns from one to the other and since it’s waterproof I can take it every time. The first time I biked to a shopping mall, locked my bike up, and turned my pannier to a backpack and went shopping, I felt like a goddamn superhero. This flexibility takes a lot of anxiety out of running errands on my bike.
>
>
Water bottle cages: Pretty self-explanatory. Carry water with you when you bike. I have 2 mounted, one on the down tube at a diagonal, and one on the seat tube vertical. I can carry my coffee mug in there without spilling too much. You shouldn’t have to sacrifice your second cup of coffee just because you want to bike in.
>
> Compact shopping bags: Not really sure what to call these, other than the brand name I know, Chico Bags. They fold up into a small size and unfold quickly. You can get sling ones to go over your shoulder, or the smaller ones easily go into the folding basket. Just a good thing to with you for unexpected stops.
>
>
Kickstand: A lot of people are surprised when bikes don’t automatically come with kickstands. And for a lot of people, a kickstand doesn’t make sense for the kind of riding they do. I am using my bike to commute, and am more interested in convenience than weight. I got a two-legged kickstand for added stability. Keep in mind, not every single bike will accept every kickstand. If you get one with a top plate like this standard one that every bike store carries, it will work for 90% of the bikes you would expect to take a kickstand. If you bought a $5,000 tri bike with areo bars and bladed spokes for reduced wind drag, you’re not going to get a kickstand on there, sorry. Also, kickstands come in a set length and may need to be cut down with a hacksaw to fit your bike. You should be able to turn the handlebars all the way from left to right without the bike falling over. If you don’t feel comfortable measuring and cutting a kickstand, consider taking it to a bike shop.
>
>Clothing/comfort: A pair of cushioned bike shorts makes a ride a lot more enjoyable. But they’re also a lot less comfortable for anything else you’re doing. Unless you’re going to bring a change of clothes with you, bike shorts aren’t a practical piece of attire once you step off your bike. It’s not necessary to get spandexed up to ride the bike, but casual clothing does present some barriers to biking. Here’s a couple common issues and how I address them.
>
> Comfortable saddle: We’re not talking about a carbon fiber road bike with skinny tires and aero bars here, we’re talking about a commuter bike. Hopefully you figured that out while installing the fenders, rack and folding basket. Saddles come in all shapes, sizes, and materials. And second only to making sure you have the right sized bike, this is the single most important element for your comfort. Find a saddle that makes sense for the type of riding you do, and if that means it’s a gel-cushioned saddle, then go for it. Find one that doesn’t rely on the cushioned posterior of bike shorts to let you ride comfortably.
>
>
Pedals/Shoes: This is a big one. If I had to stop and consider what kind of shoes I’m wearing when deciding to ride or drive, it would cut down my biking drastically. Here’s a secret: most bikes are sold with the cheapest pedals available. Even fancy bike shop bikes are shipped with cheapo pedals. Some, like $5,000 road bikes, aren’t shipped with any pedals at all, because they know that pedals are one of the first things serious riders replace. That means if you haven’t installed new pedals, your bike is probably equipped with cheap pedals that aren’t designed for the kind of riding you do or the shoes you will wear. Sometimes, just upgrading to a pair or metal pedals with more grip might do the trick. There are also systems with toe cages that will let you strap your feet in. I find these to be more of a pain than they’re worth. If you’re not going to strap your feet in for every ride, they’re a hassle as the added weight makes the cages naturally hang upside down. There’s also clipless systems, but those involve special shoes and cleat systems which are more complicated than the type of riding we’re discussing here. If you’ve ever seen someone in biker gear in the store or coffee shop and they click with every step like they’re wearing horseshoes, those are clipless shoes.
>
>What I recommend is a platform pedal like these I have a similar pair on my bike. They work and feel just like a normal bike pedal. Designed for winter adventure biking, the large pins grip effortlessly onto every kind of shoe for an effortless connection. I can ride my bike while wearing my heavy-duty safety toe boots without any problems. Some of the ones I saw on Amazon are just as cheap as any other pair of pedals. I would recommend at least getting metal ones.
>
>Pedals come in two standards, ½” and 9/16”. This measurement is the diameter of the spindle that screws into your crank. Kid’s bikes and BMX bikes are usually ½”, adult bikes are almost always 9/16”. Make sure the pedals you get are the correct spindle size. Swapping out pedals is fairly easy, every pedal I encountered will come off with either a 15mm wrench or 6mm Allen wrench. One thing to watch out for is the left pedal is reverse threaded. It will unscrew to the right and tighten to the left. Remember it with this simple mnemonic: Your left foot goes on the left pedal and it tightens to the left. Any pair of pedals you get will have the left and right clearly marked. Double-check it before installation to avoid an expensive problem.
>
>* Outerwear: Naturally the weather will be a bigger impact on your day if you’re biking rather than driving. Nice days are nicer, bad weather days are worse, and even the moderate days can be a bit challenging when you’re kitting up for some bike-based errands. If it’s one of those days where you can’t decide on short or long sleeves, biking can make these decisions even more difficult. Chilly days get chillier once you start pedaling at 10-15 miles per hour, but bundle up too much and you can overheat. The real problem here is the wind of your own passage. A fluffy sweatshirt can keep you warm when you’re walking along, but wind can blow right through it. I recommend a light windbreaker like this one I found in REI’s Outlet. It will keep the wind off, but is light enough to keep you from overheating on those days where the sun is playing peekaboo. An added benefit of paying a bit more for bike specific gear is they’re often designed with high-visibility stripes for extra safety. It’s far from fashionable, but you can get a hi-vis vest pretty cheap. They’re lightweight to not really impact your ride and can be easily stowed if you want to stop catching everyone’s eye once you step off your bike.
>

u/nudelete · 1 pointr/Nudelete

>Running errands: Right now, I take my bike to the grocery store 60% of the time. But an average bike right off the sales floor isn’t equipped for hauling even a small amount of groceries, and if you don’t want to ride back home with your knees banging the shopping bags hanging from your handlebars, you’ll need to add some accessories to your bike before biking your groceries home isn’t a gigantic pain in the ass.
>
> Rack: Pretty simple. Putting a rack on your bike massively extends its utility. You can hang a pannier (more on them later) from the rack instead of using a backpack, keeping your back sweat-free. With the addidion of a bungee cord or more permanent strap system, you can hold things on top of it. If your bike has disc brakes, you may need a wider rack to accommodate the extra wide axle. Also, some bikes with unusual geometry may require extra-long bars for installing the rack. This and the folding basket below are probably the trickiest accessories to install, and where you might be better off having them professionally installed.
>
>
Folding basket: This was a major piece of the puzzle for me. I didn’t want my bike permanently widened out with a pair of baskets off the rack. But I also wanted to be prepared to stop and do some shopping on my way home without worrying about how I would carry everything. The folding rack was the perfect solution. When I need it, it unfolds in a couple seconds and I can put stuff in it. When I don’t need it, or space is tight, it folds up quickly and it’s more or less unnoticeable off the side of my bike. It means I can make unexpected stops while on my bike to pick up a few things without having to double back in my car later. I have this Wald one, and it’s very nice. It was quite a pain to install though. Be prepared for a bit of frustration if you go the DIY route. This was the one part of these accessory installs that I used a power tool.
>
> Pannier: I mentioned this one a bit under weather. The one I have and love is this Banjo Brothers waterproof pannier and backpack. It nearly effortlessly turns from one to the other and since it’s waterproof I can take it every time. The first time I biked to a shopping mall, locked my bike up, and turned my pannier to a backpack and went shopping, I felt like a goddamn superhero. This flexibility takes a lot of anxiety out of running errands on my bike.
>
>
Water bottle cages: Pretty self-explanatory. Carry water with you when you bike. I have 2 mounted, one on the down tube at a diagonal, and one on the seat tube vertical. I can carry my coffee mug in there without spilling too much. You shouldn’t have to sacrifice your second cup of coffee just because you want to bike in.
>
> Compact shopping bags: Not really sure what to call these, other than the brand name I know, Chico Bags. They fold up into a small size and unfold quickly. You can get sling ones to go over your shoulder, or the smaller ones easily go into the folding basket. Just a good thing to with you for unexpected stops.
>
>
Kickstand: A lot of people are surprised when bikes don’t automatically come with kickstands. And for a lot of people, a kickstand doesn’t make sense for the kind of riding they do. I am using my bike to commute, and am more interested in convenience than weight. I got a two-legged kickstand for added stability. Keep in mind, not every single bike will accept every kickstand. If you get one with a top plate like this standard one that every bike store carries, it will work for 90% of the bikes you would expect to take a kickstand. If you bought a $5,000 tri bike with areo bars and bladed spokes for reduced wind drag, you’re not going to get a kickstand on there, sorry. Also, kickstands come in a set length and may need to be cut down with a hacksaw to fit your bike. You should be able to turn the handlebars all the way from left to right without the bike falling over. If you don’t feel comfortable measuring and cutting a kickstand, consider taking it to a bike shop.
>
>Clothing/comfort: A pair of cushioned bike shorts makes a ride a lot more enjoyable. But they’re also a lot less comfortable for anything else you’re doing. Unless you’re going to bring a change of clothes with you, bike shorts aren’t a practical piece of attire once you step off your bike. It’s not necessary to get spandexed up to ride the bike, but casual clothing does present some barriers to biking. Here’s a couple common issues and how I address them.
>
> Comfortable saddle: We’re not talking about a carbon fiber road bike with skinny tires and aero bars here, we’re talking about a commuter bike. Hopefully you figured that out while installing the fenders, rack and folding basket. Saddles come in all shapes, sizes, and materials. And second only to making sure you have the right sized bike, this is the single most important element for your comfort. Find a saddle that makes sense for the type of riding you do, and if that means it’s a gel-cushioned saddle, then go for it. Find one that doesn’t rely on the cushioned posterior of bike shorts to let you ride comfortably.
>
>
Pedals/Shoes: This is a big one. If I had to stop and consider what kind of shoes I’m wearing when deciding to ride or drive, it would cut down my biking drastically. Here’s a secret: most bikes are sold with the cheapest pedals available. Even fancy bike shop bikes are shipped with cheapo pedals. Some, like $5,000 road bikes, aren’t shipped with any pedals at all, because they know that pedals are one of the first things serious riders replace. That means if you haven’t installed new pedals, your bike is probably equipped with cheap pedals that aren’t designed for the kind of riding you do or the shoes you will wear. Sometimes, just upgrading to a pair or metal pedals with more grip might do the trick. There are also systems with toe cages that will let you strap your feet in. I find these to be more of a pain than they’re worth. If you’re not going to strap your feet in for every ride, they’re a hassle as the added weight makes the cages naturally hang upside down. There’s also clipless systems, but those involve special shoes and cleat systems which are more complicated than the type of riding we’re discussing here. If you’ve ever seen someone in biker gear in the store or coffee shop and they click with every step like they’re wearing horseshoes, those are clipless shoes.
>
>What I recommend is a platform pedal like these I have a similar pair on my bike. They work and feel just like a normal bike pedal. Designed for winter adventure biking, the large pins grip effortlessly onto every kind of shoe for an effortless connection. I can ride my bike while wearing my heavy-duty safety toe boots without any problems. Some of the ones I saw on Amazon are just as cheap as any other pair of pedals. I would recommend at least getting metal ones.
>
>Pedals come in two standards, ½” and 9/16”. This measurement is the diameter of the spindle that screws into your crank. Kid’s bikes and BMX bikes are usually ½”, adult bikes are almost always 9/16”. Make sure the pedals you get are the correct spindle size. Swapping out pedals is fairly easy, every pedal I encountered will come off with either a 15mm wrench or 6mm Allen wrench. One thing to watch out for is the left pedal is reverse threaded. It will unscrew to the right and tighten to the left. Remember it with this simple mnemonic: Your left foot goes on the left pedal and it tightens to the left. Any pair of pedals you get will have the left and right clearly marked. Double-check it before installation to avoid an expensive problem.
>
>* Outerwear: Naturally the weather will be a bigger impact on your day if you’re biking rather than driving. Nice days are nicer, bad weather days are worse, and even the moderate days can be a bit challenging when you’re kitting up for some bike-based errands. If it’s one of those days where you can’t decide on short or long sleeves, biking can make these decisions even more difficult. Chilly days get chillier once you start pedaling at 10-15 miles per hour, but bundle up too much and you can overheat. The real problem here is the wind of your own passage. A fluffy sweatshirt can keep you warm when you’re walking along, but wind can blow right through it. I recommend a light windbreaker like this one I found in REI’s Outlet. It will keep the wind off, but is light enough to keep you from overheating on those days where the sun is playing peekaboo. An added benefit of paying a bit more for bike specific gear is they’re often designed with high-visibility stripes for extra safety. It’s far from fashionable, but you can get a hi-vis vest pretty cheap. They’re lightweight to not really impact your ride and can be easily stowed if you want to stop catching everyone’s eye once you step off your bike.
>

u/Jobeesh · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

Within your price range you can get folding baskets. I like to use grocery panniers. The latter is more expensive but also lighter weight.

u/feis · 1 pointr/bicycletouring

Just got back from Europe, we had helmets but mostly kept them for bad road/weather conditions. Not sure there's a really good reason not to wear one, and as someone else said it's not that heavy so definitely worth at least bringing, I think.

As for 'tools', definitely remember to bring some oil & rag to lube your chain. If it's raining or you're going over sand it can dry out your chain pretty quickly. I don't know how long your tour is, but maybe a chain whip/spare spokes? If you don't want to carry thall of that, http://www.amazon.com/FiberFix-Emergency-Spoke-Replacement-Kit/dp/B001GSMQZC is what we carried, which seems like it should be good enough to get you to a shop to have it replaced.

u/WillAdams · 1 pointr/bicycletouring

It's a spoke replacement:

https://www.amazon.com/FiberFix-Emergency-Spoke-Replacement-Kit/dp/B001GSMQZC

Listed at: https://www.reddit.com/r/BicycleGear/wiki/spareparts --- you may find the balance of that wiki of interest --- in particular, I didn't see a bike tool set, or at least a multi-tool. I'd also suggest a patch kit, esp. if not taking the second spare

u/lshiva · 1 pointr/bicycletouring

FiberFix Spokes are lighter and smaller than cassette tools. They'll get you to the next bike shop, and are usable without removing your cassette.

u/GogglesPisano · 1 pointr/bicycletouring

I broke a rear spoke while on tour last summer - I carry two extra spokes, but the cassette on the rear wheel blocked the hole for the broken spoke, and I couldn't manage to thread the spare to fit without removing it (which I did not have the tools for).

Luckily, one of the guys in my group had a FiberFix spoke kit, and it worked like a champ. I was able to fix my wheel and complete my tour using it. Now I keep one in my kit - tiny and weighs practically nothing, but it can really come in handy.

u/DAFT_M0NK · 1 pointr/bicycletouring

Most of my broken spokes have been on the rear driveside. The first time I was lucky enough to be in town near a bike shop to use their tools. I would recommend either the stein cassette cracker or a fiber fix spoke

u/UKArch · 1 pointr/bicycletouring

If your not planning on taking spokes I would highly recommend one of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/FiberFix-Emergency-Spoke-Replacement-Kit/dp/B001GSMQZC

u/seeker333 · 1 pointr/bicycletouring

Inside seat post too, provided it's long enough, retained by a cork, rubber stopper or similar plug. Padding will prevent rattling noise.

It's worth mentioning that if your rear wheel is properly specified and built, and you don't overload the rear, then it is unlikely that you'll break a spoke. In this case, carrying a Fiberfix repair is the most you'll need, and it will replace any spoke without the need for chainwhip, cassette lockring tool, hypercracker-type tools, a bike shop, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/FiberFix-Emergency-Spoke-Replacement-Kit/dp/B001GSMQZC

u/icangetuatoe · 1 pointr/bicycletouring

Aside from replacement spokes and some way to attach them (multi tool or spoke wrench), consider a lightweight cassette removal tool so you can make repairs on the road - http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-029/ - and/or a fiberfix replacement spoke kit http://www.amazon.com/FiberFix-Emergency-Spoke-Replacement-Kit/dp/B001GSMQZC

u/SeattleHikeBike · 1 pointr/bikepacking

I have a set of Fix It Sticks that include a chain tool and tire levers, a Leatherman Skeletool, patch kit, spare tube, pump, zip ties, duct tape, chain link and compact pliers, a tiny tube of chain lube, latex gloves and a hand cleaner packet.

As far as spokes go, I carry a Kevlar spoke repair kit https://www.amazon.com/FiberFix-Emergency-Spoke-Replacement-Kit/dp/B001GSMQZC




If I'm really out in the boonies, I take my hiking survival essentials and I always have a small first aid kit. I have a headlight mount on my helmet and stash the light in my tool bag.




And wear shoes you can walk in!

u/MacGuyverism · 1 pointr/videos

Oh, it sure is their responsibility. I just don't trust them.

I don't trust those in the back either.

u/meaniereddit · 1 pointr/bicycling

This is the best one I have seen in terms of construction and flexibility. bonus for cheezy packaging

http://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Mirror/dp/B001VTQNVO

u/c0de_ · 1 pointr/bicycling

You need one of those, it mounts directly on your glasses so you can move it to a spot where it's not blurred out by your peripheral vision.

I have one, and it works great. But I don't have bad vision.. so YMMV

u/neepins · 1 pointr/bicycling

+1, that one is great. I use the compact version. Nonmobile link:
http://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Mirror/dp/B001VTQNVO

u/zorkmids · 1 pointr/bicycling

If he needs a mirror, the Take-a-look is excellent.

u/wickedcold · 1 pointr/bicycling

It's shitty road design.

That said shit like this is why I ride with a take-a-look mounted on my helmet. You should have a 360-degree circle of awareness at all times for your own safety; whether you're in the right or not really doesn't matter when people just pretend you don't exist.

u/DiverDN · 1 pointr/recumbent

Second the mirror, highly recommend this one: http://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Mirror/dp/B001VTQNVO I got it for $16 at my LBS, I've had it a week now and wonder how I got along without one.

u/this_shit · 1 pointr/philadelphia

Bummer dude, losing wheels is never fun. Grab this deal while it's hot. If you want to keep locking up with a single U-Lock/no cable, you can try locking skewers like these or these. I've used the latter for years now; they're not bulletproof, and with enough time you can definitely get them off, but it's all about reducing that 'crime of opportunity' hazard.
Alternatively use a cable or a 2nd U-lock.

u/LeTiger · 1 pointr/bicycling

What's your take on the use of theft deterrent skewers, primarily Pinheads, or Pitlocks?

Ever since I put a set of pinheads on mine, I haven't worried about the wheels nearly as much. More security is always better... however I've found that these have been "good enough" so far for where I live.

u/travissim0 · 1 pointr/thenetherlands

Dank jullie voor jullie advies! Ik ga mogelijk een extra slot kopen, misschien een AXA kettingslot. Hebben jullie ervaring met een inrichting zoals deze? Ik heb ze al voor mijn wielen. Ik woon in Washington DC, die heeft ook fietsdiefstal.

u/tngdiablo · 1 pointr/bicycling

Kryptonite 14mm Chain and U-Lock for the back wheel and frame.

Master Lock Force 3 U-Lock for locking the front wheel to the frame and loop a cable in with that to go around the post and back wheel.

Pinhead Set. Skewers for both wheels. Locks the headset and the seatpost as well.

I've had 2 bikes stolen. Never again.

u/medigerati · 1 pointr/rochestermn

If you want to protect your wheels, get a security skewer like this: https://www.amazon.com/Pinhead-Bicycle-Locking-Skewer-Piece/dp/B001Y9X328

u/a_scannerdarkly · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

do you think this would suit a single speed?

u/drawnverybadly · 1 pointr/personalfinance

I like to recommend people buy a pinlock set for their wheels, seat and headset, now instead of limiting my u-lock spots to posts that will fit both my front wheel and frame it allowed me to lock just my frame, also one less cable to carry around.


Pinhead Bicycle Locking Skewer Set, 4 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Y9X328/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UVhSzbRKK3HQE

u/hop3full · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

maybe get some locking skewers and then lock up the wheel with a u lock if you have one, it's not perfect but you'll prevent the casual theif

u/ackoo · 1 pointr/cycling

I got a skewer system that is permanently installed on the bike, it will not let you remove the saddle, tires, or handle bar if you don't have the key. Will not seeing a chain/wire locking the tires and frame make someone attempt to take it? I think the worst that could happen is that the thief might cut the brakes' wires at the handle bar?

Edit: wrong link

u/kirbyderwood · 1 pointr/bicycletouring

This rack will work. Best $30 bucks you'll spend:

http://www.amazon.com/Axiom-Streamliner-Road-Cycle-Black/dp/B0025UCXEO

u/jzwinck · 1 pointr/cycling

No, but here is a minimal rear rack that would work: https://www.amazon.com/Axiom-Streamliner-Road-Cycle-Black/dp/B0025UCXEO

u/MovingNorthFast · 1 pointr/bikecommuting
u/BearsEatPeople · 1 pointr/bicycling
u/802bikeguy_com · 1 pointr/bicycling

Some racks use a single support arm that connects to the brake bridge bolt. Axiom stream liner road dlx.

u/AnontheMaus · 1 pointr/bikewrench

OK, I'm thinking we do this in stages.

Stage 1 which will allow you to get it riding now and will be perfectly capable of a 4-5mi round trip.

Cable Cutters ($20) stick to the better units but probably no need to go for Park Tool. BBB make a nice one, although I currently have an IceToolz cable cutter because I can't find my good ones.
For the brakes you will need a 4th hand cable stretcher like this Pedros ($17) unit which is a third the cost of a Park Tool unit.
Will also need cables, easiest way is to grab a DIY Jagwire ($24) kit which has both brake and shift cables.
These Vittoria Zaffiro tyres are a good compromise of value, durability and performance. I use these a lot and they're on my training bike. Will also need tubes, and being a commuter, flats are not your friend so these Schwalbe tubes are a good idea. ($60)
Arundel cork bar tape ($20)
A new chain for your bike is probably the only way forward, and this KMC is perfect ($6)
The brake pads on your calipers will now doubt be old, and also a 30yo pad compound, so not overly efficient. Would strongly recommend these Kool Stop Continental brake pads as a starting point before we get to Phase 2 ($10)

Grease for the Bottom Bracket and Headset (and wheel hubs) is also needed, but there's absolutely no need to buy bike-specific grease, so this Valvoline tub as an example would be ideal ($10) .
The chain needs to be lubed, and in dry conditions I like Finish Line dry lube. Others will have their own preferences, but this is a good starting point.

Also should think about replacing the saddle, but this is very subjective and not something that can be recommended in terms of which saddle to buy. Maybe scoot around Craigslist for your area and see what comes up..

In terms of learning the skills, the Park Tool video channel is surprisingly good although heavy on product placement and endorsement although this is to be expected. There are lots of alternatives to Park Tool tools though, including Pedro's, BBB and others. None of the skills associated with your era of bike are all that difficult, and refurbishing this to be usable in your context is completely feasible in your garage.

May also want to consider buying one of the entry-level bike toolkits like this tool kit as a starting point ($40) although this is just an example however is the same kit as others sell just rebranded.

So phase 1 (not including the tool kit) is about $160-ish and watching a bunch of videos.

sorry for the essay, but once I started it just sort of kept going. Phase 2 is removal of existing driveline, and upgrading to a Shimano 2x8sp indexed group with modern dual pivot calipers and modern alloy wheels. But we can cover that later.


u/Evilchurch · 1 pointr/NewSkaters

I've heard that this dry teflon lubricant is supposed to work well.
Finish Line DRY Teflon Bicycle Chain Lube, 4-Ounce Drip Squeeze Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IDZXRM/

u/cleansoap · 1 pointr/bikewrench

First. READ UP ON HYDRAULIC BRAKES BEFORE YOU START. DO NOT ALLOW THE LEVERS TO COMPRESS W/O A ROTOR OR BLEED BLOCK BETWEEN THE PADS OR YOU'LL HYPEREXTEND THE PISTONS. OTHERWISE:

You're lucky. If your bike has hydraulic brakes there is probably very little on your bike you can't disassemble with a set of hex keys from 2.5-10mm, possibly a T-25 torx, and a #1 Phillips screwdriver. Depending on your wheels you'll need cone wrenches to set the bearings and depending on your crankset and bottom bracket you MAY need specialty tools. To work on your cassette (I'm ASSUMING CASSETTE DUE TO HYDRAULIC BRAKES) you'll need a cassette lockring tool AND a chainwhip (or other method to hold onto the cassette).

Let's see some specs or photos.



When it comes to assembly, though, especially for the stem and saddle, torque matters.

$7 Park Polylube or $10 Phil's waterproof grease or Marine grease

and

$6 TriFlow or $8 Finish Line Dry

and

$8 lifetime supple of anti-sieze for all metal-to-metal (including threads) which does not move or get frequently disassembled

and



$16 at Sears, $10 at Harbor Freight socket-drive Allen set

0-9 nM torque wrench for $22. A VERY useful range extension over the 0-7 of the Park Tool TW-1. And do not be afraid of cheap beam wrenches! Be afraid of expensive clickers but not cheap beam!

$2 T-25 socket drive (brake rotors)

$15 chain tool

$7 cassette lockring tool

$7 shitty chainwhip (you need something to hold cassette to use cassette lockring tool)

I strongly suggest the above torque wrench (or its equivalent) for all small bolts on a bike. If you want to be safe with the big bolts (mostly on the bottom bracket and crankset depending on styles) you also need:

$25 at Sears, $15-20 at Harbor Freight or auto parts stores high-torque torque wrench (Much less often needed)

EDIT: Spelling fixes and some minor rewording.

u/agile52 · 1 pointr/AirForce

That's actually easy to get, i mean the stuff like this.

u/Nick_68 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Hey sorry for the very late reply /u/gbchk! I have been really busy with a lot of stuff these last 2 weeks, and hence haven't gotten the chance to properly reply to you.

With regards to a good dry lube, I mentioned in my build log that a Dry PTFE lube should be good for the ALPS switch. I personally used the WD-40 PTFE lube, though any other Dry PTFE lube should work as well. As you can see from the build log, I referenced a [youtube comment] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=msOYzgb1IT4) that mentioned another dry lube that you might be able to try, the Finish Line dry film PTFE lube: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IDZXRM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

Also, I have updated my main comment with the link to the album which showcases how I lubed my ALPS. Hopefully this will serve you well as a guide.

Sorry again for the late reply, and have fun with whatever project you may have now!

u/6545666444699 · 1 pointr/bicycling

It has much of what you need (allen wrenches & screwdrivers), plus a bunch of things you might not (sockets & socket wrenches). If all you have to spend is $12, you could probably do worse, but if you want a good multi-tool that'll last you a while, you should probably skip it.

At a minimum, i think a multi-tool should have allen wrenches (3,4,5,6mm at least), a philips and a flat screwdriver, and a chain-breaker. It should also have at least one tire lever unless you carry that separately. If your bike has hex head bolts anywhere (usually 8mm, less commonly 9 and 10mm), it should also have those or you should carry them separately.

Some people carry a tool like this one that has pretty much everything. The chain-breaker on that one is outstanding; I used the same one (on a different Topeak tool) as my only chain-breaker for years and it still works perfectly.

My bike doesn't need those extra tools, so for an all-in-one, I prefer only to carry what I need. This one is the first one i bought 7 or 8 years ago and was used regularly until last spring. It has all the tools needed for bikes that only use allen bolts, and the chain-breaker is awesome if you have a separate allen wrench to turn it. The tire levers are pretty solid and will last years if you use them carefully. My only real complaint about it is that the chain-breaker is turned using a 4mm allen head glued into one of the tire levers and doesn't last, so you need to carry a separate 4mm allen wrench or plan to use the tire lever to disassemble the tool so you can use that one.

I carry this one now. I bought it to replace the other one last year after I finally broke one of the tire levers. I really like it; it's more compact than the Hexus II and weighs a bit less, and still has all of the same tools. The weakest part is probably the chain-breaker, but it seems strong enough to handle the occasional roadside emergency.

u/disinformationtheory · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

I have a similar pump, and I've been very happy with it. I really like the flexible hose; it makes the pump easier to use. Depending on what kind of bike you have, you might want the high pressure one (120 psi "pressure drive" vs. 90 psi "alloy drive").

I also have this multitool, which I've also been happy with, except the large hex wrench that fits over the smaller one isn't as secure as I think it should be (it's never fallen off though).

u/geeyoupee · 1 pointr/bicycling

I have one of these and I like it but its sorta bulky. The tire levers on there are pretty handy.

I was wondering if your chain snaps, you could probably just use the tool to link the chain together and ride home with one less link for now?

u/pmfender · 1 pointr/bicycling

http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-60102538-Hexus-II-Multi-tool/dp/B0037N32VG/ref=sr_1_5?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1422413167&sr=1-5
Definitely the best one I have used. It's got a built in chain tool, spoke wrenches, and tire levers that pop out of the handle. It even has a allen key in the tire lever to tighten the bolts on each end that hold the whole multi tool together.

u/corterleather · 1 pointr/CapeCod

Honestly it takes more time to patch a tube than it does to install a new one, it's the same amount of work. I'd highly caution you that you should learn some basic bicycle maintenance before taking off on a weekend trip because that list isn't overkill...it's bare minimum. It takes one time being stranded to really wish you had learned to replace the simple little things like a spoke or chain link on your bike.

Everything I mentioned can be fixed with a simple pocket tool like THIS

It's not the distance - you're right, 100 miles isn't much in a weekend. It's just generally making the decision to put yourself at risk for being stranded. Loaded touring will put stress and weight on bike parts that normal city riding won't.

But again, if you think it's overkill just go do whatever. Eventually on a trip you'll break something and be far enough out that you'll learn to fix your bike when you get back. I'm trying to help you safely enjoy this trip, if you want to go about it your way go for it....there's just no reason to take the risks you're about to take.

u/gunners0502 · 1 pointr/cycling

Honestly, I'd say start riding, and the knowledge of common damage/ repairs will come through experience. This will also help on the customer service side of things because you will be able to relate to the customers. Sure, the LBS can train you on some more niche skills (such as installing a bottom bracket for bike build up), but 90% of the issues with bikes you will be able to see first hand (flat tire, poorly indexed gears, etc.), and how to resolve them, if you ride. As for tools, a good multi-tool (I use this one) will have the tools to be able to fix most problems, though the shop will have much better proper tools, which should be used if available.

u/RPtheFP · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

If you plan on commuting year round, I would consider keeping the Giant. Maybe look into getting new tires that are narrower. Kenda makes some 26x1.5" 100 PSI tires that are popular that the shop I worked at. The shifting is probably better than that Schwinn and should have a lower end gearing for any hills or heavier loads. Tires and tubes should be well under $100 if not $80.

From my experience, Crank Brothers pedals are great, other parts or accessories not so much. This Topeak tool is awesome and has everything you should need including tire levers.

Lump it with the Giant for a while until you save and find a bike that is within your price range and that fits you and your style of riding well.

u/pimpthatbike · 1 pointr/cycling

No way 700c would fit.

I replaced the pads in the back and it's all good now, will do the front later so brakes are taken care of. I will probably get a SS chainring 48+ teeth for the front. Cleaned up the derailleur and its much better now, but I still gotta get it tuned by a shop (shifts great but skips 5 and 8)

Also, since my rear rack is taped on right now I was looking at getting this. From reviews a fender should fit underneath it. I've got the hole between the seat stays to mount a fender, but do you know of one that fits on disc brakes?

I haven't been able to find a rigid fork that has the correct axle to crown length, from what I've researched mine is 480mm and would shoot for a ~450mm fork. Would I need to get a 700c wheel and smaller fork to offset it? After that I'd look into a different handlebar or better bar ends, as the ones on it are 10 pounds and from a huffy.

Thanks for the help all, looks like I can salvage this.


This is my bike on bikepedia

u/MathHugger · 1 pointr/bicycling
u/bikephotog · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

Axiom Disc Rack mounted to a seat clamp with eyelets would fix the lack of eyelets and seat stay mounting points problem for a rack. About to do this on my brother's Fuji Roubaix.

u/poorhockeydad · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

Axiom DLX Streamliner Disc Cycle Rack

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004094HY2/ref=cm\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_U\_vJW0CbMTNBN21

​

Installed super easily. I'm only using it for fairly light loads. 15in laptop and a change of clothes (no shoes). If I was really going to load it up I'd probably change the top mount to one that clamps the seatpost.

u/PaulRivers10 · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

I HATE seatpost racks. The problem is with only 1 attachment point, they tend to swing around behind you a little. They also don't carry much.

They do make racks for bikes without rack mounts though.

A cheaper one is the Axiom Streamliner Disc:
http://www.amazon.com/Axiom-Streamliner-Disc-Cycle-Black/dp/B004094HY2/

A lighter but more expensive one (that is designed to be a rack solution on full carbon bikes as well as others) is the BONTRAGER BACKRACK LIGHTWEIGHT:
http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/equipment/cycling-accessories/bike-racks/bontrager-backrack-lightweight/p/08214

They both work the same way - at the top they attach under the rear brake bridge. At the bottom they attach via the wheel skewer, putting the weight of anything on the rack right onto the wheel axel (same place your bodyweight goes).

P.S. I see someone else said something similar and mentioned some of these racks below as well.

u/chamoisjuice · 1 pointr/bicycling

Werd, pretty much any rack will work if the brake is inside rear triangle.
If brake is mounted on back of the dropout, you need a disc specific rack.
There are two main types: the kind that is just spaced much wider, like this:
http://www.topeak.com/products/racks/explorertubularrack_discmount
And the kind that is set back further, like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Axiom-Streamliner-Disc-Cycle-Black/dp/B004094HY2
The set back kind gives you more heel clearance for panniers. But also mounts weight further back... tradeoffs.

u/paulkaul · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

Justhavingacoffe, I'd be super interested how you have made the Topeak work.


DuranDourand, thanks for the pic, that's exactly the problem I ran into.

Just to double check, this is the rack you've used, correct?

http://www.amazon.com/Axiom-Streamliner-Disc-Cycle-Black/dp/B004094HY2

Thank you?

u/Kraveylicious · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

Take a look at this one. One of the things to look out for on road bikes without eyelets is that heel clearance is also shorter. This track mounts to the quick release and brake mount, plus moves the track back to provide more heel clearance when you’re panniers are on. They have a road version that just has a narrower platform on top but the dish version tends to get better reviews and has a normal sized platform for a crate, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/Axiom-Streamliner-Disc-Cycle-Black/dp/B004094HY2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=axiom+streamliner+disc+dlx+rear+rack&psc=1&qid=1572324935&sprefix=axiom+stre&sr=8-3

u/vorin · 1 pointr/bicycling

If I'm only traveling to the park in my sneakers (fake ride):

u/MechanicalGrapefruit · 1 pointr/bicycling

I can confirm that the Tech EOS kicks ass. Battery life is impressive considering how small it is (I've ridden every day for around an hour for the past month and a half and it's still going fine). Bright enough that I can avoid potholes.

Also, the PDW Danger Zone is an awesome tail light. I've used it with the Tech EOS and it's still kicking as well. It's a really bright fucking tail light, and it looks sweet.

u/imperialredballs · 1 pointr/bicycling

I have this headlight and the mounting system for the light has worked fine. As for a taillight I have the PDW Danger Zone and I can't recommend it enough.

For the other stuff: go to your LBS.

u/Sman818 · 1 pointr/bicycling

This is my do everything bike, a 2015 Trek Crossrip Comp.

Performance-wise, it is stock, with the exception of the tires. I swapped out the Bontrager Hardcases that came with the bike and put on a pair of [Clement PDX cross tires] (http://clementcycling.com/pdx-clincher). There are lots of gravel trails around my area, and I wanted some grippier tires to handle them. They roll a little bit slower on pavement, but the difference off-road is incredible. This thing absolutely flies on gravel and dirt.

Some other additions include:

-[Ivation Bluetooth Speaker] (http://www.amazon.com/Ivation-Super-Portable-Rechargeable-Bluetooth-Speaker/dp/B00HVMIL1U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409072570&sr=8-1&keywords=bicycle+speaker)- I like listening to music while riding, but earbuds make it difficult to hear what's going on around me. This speaker is a great alternative. It attaches to the handlebars with a stretchy strap, and is very secure. It has an aux input and a micro SD card slot, but the Bluetooth feature is really nice since I don't have to worry about wires getting tangled or where to put my phone.

-[Portland Design Works Danger Zone Taillight] (http://www.amazon.com/Portland-Design-Works-Danger-Light/dp/B00435IPFK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1409072793&sr=8-2&keywords=portland+design+works+radbot+1000)- So cars don't run me over at night. Mounting it is super easy, and the light is extremely bright. It also quickly unhooks so I can take it with me and not worry about it getting stolen.

-[Diamondback LED Headlight] (http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/product/index.jsp?productId=41624036&kw=diamondback+headlight&origkw=diamondback+headlight)- So I can see where I'm going at night, and so cars can see me. I haven't had a chance to use it yet, but it seems pretty bright, and the price was good.

-[Blackburn Frame Pump] (http://www.blackburndesign.com/pumps/mountain-air-anyvalve-mini-pump.html#.U_y_7twWxO4)- So I can inflate my tires when needed, and because I like the look of a frame pump.

This is my first bike that isn't from a box box store, and I absolutely love it so far. It's my commuter, my cruiser, my off-roader, and whatever else I need it to be. I highly recommend the Crossrip line to anyone that is interested in it.

u/CharlieEch042 · 1 pointr/Biking

Truth is, the best preparation you can do is to acclimate by riding in the cold weather - you'll get used to it.
Having said that, I use certain pieces of gear that really help me out. Here are a few key pieces...

Pogies - insulated bar mitt covers. The go over your handle bars and cut the wind, but are also insulated. You still wear a glove, but this is far better than just a glove or mitt.
Check this site out...
https://bikepacking.com/gear/pogies/

Next, you need to have good head covering.
I use OR Windstopper Balaclava
https://www.outdoorresearch.com/us/en/sonic-balaclava/p/2435420001006

Ski goggles are a must.

Wool tube scarf for your neck.

For your torso and chest, you need to layer:
Base layer - I choose merino wool. There are basically 3 thicknesses to choose from.
Wool keeps you warm even if you sweat, dries well, doesn't stink.

Next, insulating layer or layers.
Something warm like a shirt + Polartec jacket - again, 3 different thicknesses depending on you and how cold you get.
Long johns / fleece pants.

Last layer is a shell with at least a wind panel on the front. Gore Windstopper is my #1 choice, but I have many different jackets. I prefer jackets that have pit zips (zippers in the arm pits) so I can ventilate excess heat.

My cycling pants have a wind panel on the front to stop the wind.

Wool socks.
Darn Tough, a Vermont company, guarantees their socks for life - if they ever wear out, they will replace them for free.

Good boots, nothing too big. If you use a cycling shoe, there are insulated covers available for winter use or even winter cycling boots.

Whatever you do - don't let yourself sweat.
You need to find the balance point of being warm without sweating. If you sweat, you will become cold.

It all becomes an attempt at equilibrium - finding that comfortable warm spot without overheating & sweating, or allowing yourself to get cold.

Protect exposed skin especially your face, nose, ears, & cheeks.
Goggles keep your eyes warm, your lashes free from frost, and prevent your eyes from tearing. The polarised lenses help you see better.

As for your bike.
Studded tires - check out Schwalbe tires - actually may help, otherwise a winter tire with a winter rubber compound should do the trick.
Do you necessarily count on your knobby MTN bike tires doing a good job, the rubber may become too hard to properly grip the road or ice.

Lights...go with something detachable that uses a standard battery. Bring your light in to keep it warm.

I'm currently using:

Rear light: Portland Design Works Danger Zone Tail Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00435IPFK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-uj5CbV3JHJA6

And a Planet Bike Blaze Front light X 2.

Www.PlanetBike.com

Keep your bike clean - wash the salt off regularly.
CLEAN AND LUBE YOUR CHAIN AND DRIVETRAIN.

At the end of winter, give your bike a deep cleaning.
Change your cables.
Undo your headset, crank, wheel hubs, clean the bearings and repack with new clean grease.
Tune your derailleurs.
Check your chain for stretch and replace if needed.
Check you rear derailleur hangar.
Spray done tube saver in your down tube and you're ready for summer.

Check out these sites for gear.

Www.MEC.ca

Www.Rei.com

Www.Bikepacking.com

on YouTube: GCN & GMBN

Hope the info helps.
Cheers,

u/flug32 · 1 pointr/cycling

#1 Get real lights--both headlight and taillight.

#2. Mounting a headlight low helps define potholes and other road issues. If your light is aligned with your eyes, say mounted on your head or high on the handlebars, you don't get any shadows. But a low mounted headlight--say fork-mounted--really casts some shadows and allows you to see those potholes.

Personally I like a low and a high headlight, not a low light only. There are too many situations when the low light is hidden from an oncoming vehicles. But low + high is a good combo.

LED lights are so good anymore there is not reason to not ride with something sufficiently bright. Like 1000 lumens or more up front and at least nearly that many in the back. I ride with relatively cheap CREE style led lights (something like this, though that's not a recommendation for that particular brand/style as I haven't tried it) that are like $20.

I've been running these taillights for a while, 3 watt CREE. That particular one isn't available any more but it gives you an idea of the wattage needed to be truly visible. Just for example, one of the 3 watt CREEs will very clearly outblast 3 of these. Also it has a battery that will actually last a while vs lights powered by AAAs to save a few grams--but last only a couple of rides at best.

Anyway, when you have enough lights on, front-, rear-, and side-visible, you'll be surprised how much room you get from motorists. I generally enjoy riding at night more than the day.

u/YTubeInfoBot · 1 pointr/bicycling

How Loud is It: Magnet Steel Bike Bicycle Indoor Exercise Trainer Stand

1 view  👍0 👎0


Description: I bought this in Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004I576SM/...

M S, Published on Sep 3, 2018

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u/gwillad · 1 pointr/Fitness

if you already own a bicycle, you can get what amounts to a flywheel for the back wheel so that you can a)bike indoors and b)provide resistance.

edit: something like this https://www.amazon.com/Magnet-Bicycle-Indoor-Exercise-Trainer/dp/B004I576SM

u/pepperduck · 1 pointr/bicycling

http://www.amazon.com/Magnet-Bicycle-Indoor-Exercise-Trainer/dp/B004I576SM

I have this one. It's solid and folds up. It has a resistance control as well.

It's a bit on the loud side and I've only used this trainer so I don't have fancier ones to compare it to. All in all though it does its job and IMO it does it well.

u/johnthundaa · 1 pointr/loseit

This one If link doesn't work, look up bicycle trainers on amazon. Should be the first option. It's actually on sale now for $53

u/ChristophColombo · 1 pointr/MTB

This is the lens you want. To swap lenses, the bezel unscrews and the lens comes right out. Takes a couple seconds.

u/Kevlar3D · 1 pointr/MTB

I'm gonna take some flak for this but I bought three of these guys ($20x3=$60) 1200 lumen is probably overrated a bit but not by too much. Maybe ~900:
http://www.amazon.com/RioRand-Bicycle-HeadLight-Flashlight-Headlamp/dp/B006QQX3C4


And then I bought one wide angle lens.
http://www.amazon.com/MagicShine-Gemini-Lights-Headlight-Includes/dp/B004WLCLQY

I am into my lights for $70ish bucks and have one unfocused beam, one trail sized focused beam and a spare light & battery. Nothing worse than getting stuck in the middle nowhere - in the dark.

So yeah, I took the cheap route. The bike specific brands do offer a stronger light but my light output matches or beats all of my riding buddies with brand name lights.

Worst thing I can say about the setup is that they are bound to the bars with a rubber strap. You have to tighten it down pretty well or it can slip on the bar. I didn't like helmet mounted because I blind my friends by looking at them when talking. So yeah probably not the most popular post but they work and they work well. They've lasted about 3 years already and no issues. One word of advice, some of the newer LEDs use a different battery connector so order yours at the same time so all of your lights & batteries are interchangeable.



u/defacedlawngnome · 1 pointr/bicycling

also if you haven't seen this wide angle lens it might be worth getting. it should fit your light.

u/anonanon1313 · 1 pointr/bicycling

These XML T6 lights are amazing, I have three.

Make sure you also get one of these:

www.amazon.com/Angle-MagicShine-Gemini-Lights-Headlight/dp/B004WLCLQY/ref=pd_sim_sg_1

They make a huge difference to the beam, much nicer for a bike light.

u/BadProfessor69 · 1 pointr/cycling

I've built lights, modded lights and generally tinkered with them since the generator/bulb days, but these days I just have a super-bright Chinese flashlight like this, a clamp to hold that to the bars and a lens to scatter the light in front. Bright enough to soften paint, cheap enough to lose (mostly) and rechargable. Probably not quite enough for serious off-road riding, but easily as bright as a good small motorbike light.

The other bike has one of these though with higher output than in the ad - even cheaper, AAA batteries, quite bright.

u/justaquickaccount1 · 1 pointr/bicycling

If weight is not an issue, you should get the Kryptonite New York Lock. I have it and have never had an issue with it. It's pretty much as secure as you'll get with a bike lock, without resorting to incredibly huge, heavy, unwieldy solutions. I live in Philly too, which has a ton of bike theft.

This looks to be even thicker and more secure, but I can't tell from the picture how large it actually is.

For the most security, the lock should be small, but big enough to put through the frame and back wheel, while still having room to accommodate the front wheel (which you should take off and lock with the back wheel and frame, provided it's a quick-release wheel- if it's not a quick release, then get one of the cables or an extra, tiny u-lock to lock the front wheel to the frame).

Take some time to look up the most secure ways to lock a bike. It doesn't matter how long you've been riding for- if you're unfamiliar with how to securely lock up a bike, having a better lock won't mean much. How you lock it up, where you lock it up, and what you lock it to are all important considerations.

And just know that there's no perfect solution. If somebody comes along with an angle-grinder, your bike is getting stolen no matter how many locks you have on it. Exercise good judgement in how long you keep it locked up in one place (as in, don't just leave it out overnight in a high-theft area if you can avoid it). And even having a great lock won't prevent somebody from taking your seat, handlebars, headlight, reflectors, fender/mud guard, water bottle, or anything else that might be on your bike but not chained down.

u/ULTRASTEEVE · 1 pointr/MTB

I went all out and got one of these W/ the 4ft. extension cable as well. Obviously I won't be leaving it anywhere out of sight for more than a few minutes because bike theft in Whistler is SO bad. https://www.amazon.ca/Kryptonite-Standard-Bicycle-Transit-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK9SY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1463033935&sr=8-6&keywords=kryptonite+u+lock

u/IAmZeDoctor · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

Yeah, definitely go with a solid U-lock. Cable locks can be cut in less than 30 seconds. I recommend the Kryptonite Mini-7 w/ cable or the Kryptonite New York u-locks. They both come with theft insurance (provided you register the locks and the bikes they'll be locking within 15 days of purchase).

Edit: or check out the gear Wiki

u/pretenderist · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

You can see most of the letters on the picture.

Kryptonite New York Lock

u/freestylekyle314 · 1 pointr/whichbike

Definitely would not buy it with out the lock, since you half to buy a lock. And that 40 bucks won't buy anything close to it. Plus the lock really makes this a good deal.

Kryptonite New York Standard Bicycle U-Lock with Transit FlexFrame Bracket (4-Inch x 8-Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005YPK9SY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_e1fyzbPV7XNA4

u/lottonumber · 1 pointr/bicycling

Any lock can be broken given time, more secure locks take more time. There are various opinions and you can look at various tests people have done (Men's Journal/Gizmodo). However I tend to recommend a u-lock, the chains are very secure but heavy.

Example of a Chain

The Lock I Have

Every brand has various security levels, so you can research and see where your cost to security ratio is, but a cheap lock will be cheap and easier to get through.

u/aaron_lmao · 1 pointr/uofmn

Get a thicc U-lock (like this) and a thicc flex cable (like this)

When you lock your bike outside, lock the frame with the U-lock, and string the flex cable through both wheels and the seat if you can. Never had my bike stolen. If you have a nice bike, you need to get just as nice security for it.

Other tips:

  • Lock your bike in high-traffic areas
  • Make your locking configuration as complex as you can
  • If you bike in the winter/rain, get chain grease, your chain WILL get rusty af and break if you don't.
u/somewhatboxes · 1 pointr/cycling

Like /u/jrm2191 said, Park Tool make some... comprehensive tool sets. Those prices are enough to make me choke, though. Your son's riding a ~$400 bike - I don't know how I would wrap my head around buying an $800 tool set, or even a $300 one.

But the tool sets are a good way to think about what tools you should buy. I'd get a basic tool set, fill in gaps, and upgrade selectively. What I'd do, in no particular order, would look like...

  • cheap tool set ($40) (total $40)
  • torque wrench ($50) (total $90)
  • chain cleaning tool ($10) (total $100)
  • cable cutting tool ($35) (total $135)
  • maybe chain pliers? ($10) (total $145)

    At this point I would start thinking about upgrading the tools that your son will use all the time. The thing that stands out for me is hex tools. He might use Torx screws, but he'll definitely use metric hex tools

  • some nice metric hex tools ($15) (total $160)
  • some torx equivalents ($11) (total $171)

    Then probably nice meaty tire levers to make replacing tires and tubes easier

  • tire levers ($9) (total $180)

    If you were looking to spend $300 or that range, then you'll notice you're way under that target. Feel free to start adding on some random nice things, like a portable multi-tool, which will pay off if he has an issue while out on a ride.

  • Portable multi-tool ($25) (total $210)

    I'm running out of things that aren't "consumable" (like brake cables, housing, etc...), so for my last recommendation, nitrile work gloves! (they'll make cleanup a breeze)

  • work gloves ($20) (total $230)

    There are tons of other things you could get (a bike stand, for instance) but at this point I'm getting a bit out of control. and there are tools I assume you have (e.g. a good screwdriver), but at some point I need to stop.

    And obviously feel free to mix and match whatever components you can afford/feel comfortable spending that much money on. One thing that might help would be to talk with him about what kind of work he does on his bike. He might be in desperate need of hex tools, but not treating himself to nice hex wrenches. That could be your quick, easy, cheap answer. Or similarly he might be nervously tightening bolts without a torque wrench, even in places that call for very precise amounts of torque. Again, easy answer regarding what to prioritize.

    Best of luck

    edit: totals didn't add up right, sorry!
u/patw32 · 1 pointr/bikewrench

I’ve been happy with: Venzo Bicycle Bike Torque Wrench Allen Key Tool Socket Set Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00811WQT8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EYx4Cb9SHZ6J7

u/twopersondesk · 1 pointr/fatbike

I know some might disagree with me, but I bought this: https://www.amazon.com/VENZO-Bicycle-Torque-Wrench-Socket/dp/B00811WQT8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493642589&sr=8-1&keywords=venzo+torque

It seems to do a great job. I am not sure of its accuracy, but even if it is slightly off I am okay with that. If I torque something to 5nm, and it is actually 4 or 6 I think thats okay. My main concern before getting it was that I was torquing things that should be 5nm to 15nm because of not having a way to gauge how hard I was pushing. I think it only "clicks" in one direction so it is not perfect for torquing lets say my BB on the drive side that threads opposite. But for daily use it seems to be great and not super expensive. But if you have the disposable income to spend, get the park tools version.

u/Giraffe_Racer · 1 pointr/bicycling

Yeah, I've never seen a preset wrench for the higher Nm that cassettes/hubs are rated for. Admittedly, I've always used a regular wrench for my cassettes and just gone on feel, as I also don't have the expensive full sized wrench. It's one of those things I keep meaning to buy when one is on sale, but I never do.

The preset wrenches are usually rated for 4-6 Nm, which is good for handlebars, stems, etc. For $59, this torque wrench has good reviews, although I have no personal experience. I just saw it while looking for a 9 Nm preset that I could use on my saddle.

u/beatsnbuds · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

I use one of these on my bike, mostly for stuff attached to my carbon fork. Cheap and puts my mind at ease a bit.

u/__no_scope · 1 pointr/bicycling

Got this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00811WQT8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 from amazon. It's a bit cloudy today, I will try to upload better photos tommorow!

Thanks for the help!!

u/ILikeBHole · 1 pointr/bikewrench

Thanks so much for all of the feedback!

I ended up purchasing VENZO Bicycle Bike Torque Wrench Allen Key Tool Socket Set and BIKEHAND Bike Bicycle Repair Tool Kit with the addition of cable cutters.

Last night I watched this guy assemble a bike which allowed me to see which tools were needed:

How to Build a Bike Series

I will keep everyone posted on my progress. All the necessary parts and tools should be delivered by March, 20th! Stay tuned.

u/audiomuse1 · 1 pointr/Austin

Just get some baskets and a rack on your bike if you don't have one (most bike shops can do this for you). I have these baskets for grocery shopping and they're effing awesome: http://www.amazon.com/Bushwhacker-Omaha-Bicycle-Grocery-Pannier/dp/B00B4ZKZK0

They fold up when not in use and you can keep a reusable bag or two in it

u/cujo · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

I prefer collapsible pannier/baskets, and then I just throw my preferred bag in. Panniers suck off the bike.

I have these, but there are other options...

https://www.amazon.com/Bushwhacker-Omaha-Bicycle-Grocery-Accessories/dp/B00B4ZKZK0/ref=sr_1_9?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1536708897&sr=1-9&keywords=folding+bike+basket

u/WhiskeyApothecary · 1 pointr/wintercycling

It’s a cheap plastic target crate. Pretty flimsy.

I’m actually looking at getting this instead

Bushwhacker Omaha - Bicycle Grocery Pannier Cycling Rack Basket Bike Rear Bag Rear Accessories - Sold as Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B4ZKZK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SaHQDb50MCTFA

u/gk615 · 1 pointr/travel

Get a bike with a rear rack and some kind of panniers like these for hauling groceries. You could also get a more traditional pannier that closes like a backpack, or a “trunk bag” for the rack if you plan to use it for more than just a quick grocery run.

u/cp3spieth · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

I just recently purchased this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4ZKZK0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I am going to just put my backpack in the basket as I really like my current swiss gear backpack.

u/bkrassn · 1 pointr/bikecommuting
  1. Yes, a century to me is 100 Miles. It seemed insane when 5-6 miles was a good long ride. Now on flat level ground my boyfriend considers 20-30 miles at 10-15Mph a warm up.. I'm in much better shape then he is. (I tow Max and still out ride him)

  2. There are multiple reasons why we don't take cargo in this trailer. (On a regular/planned basis)

    a) We have 3 trailers. A child trailer for my nephew and a dedicated cargo trailer. We almost never use the cargo trailer except when bikecamping.

    b) Our cargo trailer isn't nearly as wide as the dog trailer so it is easier to get around things and people. The dog trailer is almost as wide as a typical tadpole style trike (2 wheels up front). While it is great for Max, it means having to plan a route in/out of tight spaces.

    c) We have several options for taking cargo. We have racks, panniers, bags, etc. If he isn't going I can gain my maneuverability and still carry a frightening amount of material. With only 1 cargo basket I put in my large backpack. It has a change of clothes, baby wipes, deodorant, body spray, a 40oz cold brew container, a protein shaker bottle, water bottle, wallet, keys, arm sleeves, etc. There is also room for 2 laptops, but I've been leaving one in each location recently. This is just on one side. In that picture you can see that same backpack. It doesn't even take up the entire basket in that picture because it isn't fully loaded.
    Folding baskets I use.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B4ZKZK0/

    e) Note* There are times when we will see something while riding about that we have to have, if we have to put it in/on his trailer we will. He doesn't mind things on the roof of his trailer, only things inside of it or on that front part.

  3. I do, when I had a regular upright diamond frame bike it was fairly easy to lockup. The trailer could have been stolen at anytime as it is pretty quick to release/detach. My recumbent is difficult to lock up on its own without the trailer. The only thing the trailer really adds to the mix is I cant lock up the back are of the bike to a rack by backing into it. I also have to plan how to get to the place I'm going to lockup otherwise I may have to manually move the trailer or bike around. It isn't difficult to do, I just don't like to.

    I have a few rules though. If your a restaurant and you don't have outside bicycle and dog friendly (outside) seating... I'll keep going. I'll buy food from a grocery store and eat it outside before I patron an unfriendly restaurant. While on group rides I've left him in his trailer when we all went into a bar/restaurant. This is the only time I'll break that rule, and it has more to do with social reasons then anything else. I'll still plot to find a friendlier restaurant though.

    If I go to a store and I can't take him inside I generally leave him tethered to the trailer. Assuming I can't lock it in a good place I may just lock the rear tire to the bike. Unless there is a place to lock it up in view. I mostly just plan to stop somebody from running off with it in the hour or so that I'll be there.

    I'm more comfortable not locking my bike up and leaving it with Max then I am locking it up without Max. Something about a 60 lbs White German Sheppard/Husky mix seems to deter bad people. This technique also works with a running car w/ keys inside. Never had anything stolen from my car, including the car itself. He knows what is "mine". I don't know what he would do if forced to defend my property though, most likely nothing but put on a good show to try to scare off somebody. When I do park the bike I park in a place where I can keep an eye on it. Not for the bike, but for him. Steal my bike I'll be upset, but hurt or steal my dog and I'll be worse.

    Edit added link to the baskets
u/kommisar6 · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

I use these for throw and go commuting:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4ZKZK0

u/bogusjimmy · 1 pointr/bicycling

Grab a pack of these https://www.amazon.com/Salzmann-Scotchlite-Spoke-Reflector-Bicycle/dp/B00DNG8DSY

These invisible during the day, but super bright at night. Combine them with some reflective tape on the frame, bright lights, maybe some tyres with reflective sidewalls when the time comes to change them, plus bright clothes and you're super safe!

u/GruntledMisanthrope · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

Half my commute is after dark. I like putting a couple 3M reflective thingies on my spokes for side visibility and I have lights on the front and back of the helmet to make sure I'm seen over the top of cars.

The helmet light is especially nice for aiming right at cars waiting at side streets to make sure they see me. I've stopped cars in the act of pulling out in front of me several times by hitting them with the beam from my helmet light. I use an LED flashlight.

u/mmm_migas · 1 pointr/CyclePDX

This is another option. I use these spoke reflectors . My rims also have reflective tape.

u/SwervingNShit · 1 pointr/cycling

It's always suggested to get a new helmet. You don't know if it's been involved in a slight crash or had anything happen to it that would compromise its safety.

What kind of lights did you get??

I'd like to think I have some properly good lights and I've only spent ~$70 on them

Here's what I have: 2Watt Cygolite hotshot tail light ~$30 and another Cygolite headlight that can do short 600lm flashes, but has a few modes around 500lm or so, $50, but this is what I ordered last month for a friend who recently got into cycling, same 2W tail light & another headlight that's just a bump below the 550 I linked above for $60

Unless you've got some whopping mountain trail lights, I feel like $130 is a bit high, I'm all for supporting LBSs, but sometimes they get silly.

Anyways, stay safe & nice fucking deal on the bike.

u/Amoney8612 · 1 pointr/EDC

Ahh, that looks like a nice one. I've got two that I switch between.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C2MHNJK/ref=sxts3?ie=UTF8&qid=1474239773&sr=3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65

https://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Metro-550-USB-Light/dp/B00LXTORC4

I need to start taking both with, just in case something happens to one of them.

u/Jewbaccafication · 1 pointr/bicycling

I'd look into a Blitzu tail light and a CygoLite Metro at whatever pricepoint you'd prefer.

What the other commenters linked or talked about work fine, they're both more expensive options and comically weaker than the lights I just linked. Only downside to the Blitzu tail lights is that they're all soft-mounted with either velcro or silicone. I have never had one fall off while riding, though. I had one stolen awhile ago so I bought the 180 lumen iteration and saved ~18-20$ over buying a 150 lumen version of the hotshot.

They CygoLite Metro, after doing price/review comparisons on Amazon just doesn't really have any rivals outside of maybe Blitzu's Gator series (it's waterproof and cheaper, but not as many lumens).

If you have any questions let me know!

u/CivilBrocedure · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

My headlamp is Cygolite Metro 500. Bright as can be, USB rechargeable, all weather. I'll have to check my tail light next time I ride.

u/Pr0xycast · 1 pointr/flashlight

Looking for light for bicycle commuting

Cygolite Metro 550

u/JustPassinBy337 · 1 pointr/cycling

I think I will stick with the Lezyne Strip for my rear.
I'm considering these for the front though:

https://www.amazon.com/Dash-Pro-450-Rechargeable-Headlight/dp/B013FIYLTE/ref=sr_1_7?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1479055162&sr=1-7&keywords=cygolite

https://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Metro-550-USB-Light/dp/B00LXTORC4/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1479055162&sr=1-1&keywords=cygolite

Not sure the Lezyne 400xl Micro Drive will light up the streets enough and a lot of people are recommending Cygolite so must be good brand.

u/addys · 1 pointr/bicycling

+1 to both points above. I got the 550 usb-rechargable cygolite in 2015 and it's been going strong ever since:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LXTORC4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

def strong enough to see and be seen in reasonable conditions. Pretty much anything except midnight fog single tracking :)

u/ticktocktoe · 0 pointsr/pelotoncycle

You're going to want to go clipless (which is what clip in pedals are called - bit counter intuitive). That said, I hate that peloton comes with Look Deltas - just buy a set of Shimano SPD-SL cleats and pedals - they are the same bolt pattern as Look Deltas and far more prevalent across the cycling world.

u/Blackberry826 · 0 pointsr/bicycling

RE: the mirror question. I've tried them all. This is the best IMHO:

http://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Mirror/dp/B001VTQNVO

u/minecraftmedic · 0 pointsr/bicycletouring

I don't do much touring, but I only ever carry one lock. When I upgraded my wheels I got paranoid that someone might nick them, so I bought a set of pinhead locking skewers. You can get it as a 4-pack to include your locking your stem bolt and saddle too. Amazon link - UK.

I really like mine, they're expensive, so check out ebay first - I bought mine for about 60% off RRP.

Edit: You need to register the key, then you can order a spare. Not sure what this costs you. FWIW, I haven't lost my key yet.