Best suspension parts according to redditors
We found 672 Reddit comments discussing the best suspension parts. We ranked the 453 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 672 Reddit comments discussing the best suspension parts. We ranked the 453 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
I put a cargo net between the two hooks in the cargo area to keep grocery bags from sliding all over the place.
This guy put a net on the ceiling to store blankets and stuff - I haven't done this, but I want to sometime
I got one of these from harbor freight and put it in the back - it fits perfectly between the backseat and the hatch. Into that I put a tire inflator and jumper cables from harbor freight, and a first aid kit from Amazon
I also did a mod that keeps the rear 12v socket on when the car is off so I can inflate the rear tires without turning the car on
I haven't installed one, but the U-haul trailer hitch for the element bolts straight in, so I want to get one of those sometime
Another thing I'm planning on doing soon is replacing the hatch struts with these because my hatch won't lift itself all the way up
I also replaced all my lights except headlights with LEDs - I can link all those here later if you want - I'd definitely recommend doing the map lights, you can get a huge brightness boost on those if you want. The rest of the lights aren't much brighter than the incandescents, but they use a lot less power and you can get colored or cool white lights if you're into that
Edit: I remembered some more stuff I did
I added these floor mats from Walmart - it's like $15 for a set of two. They keep dirt and gravel from getting everywhere and help keep my feet from sliding around
Another harbor freight addition is this clamp that I use to hold down the door switch if I want to keep the radio on with the doors open. This disables the beeping and is a lot easier than finding a plastic screw or wiring in a relay and button. It also fits perfectly in the drivers door pocket
Your can also replace the tie rod with a beefier ZJ tie rod for a bit more money. It was a direct bolt in on my 99 XJ.
I believe you need a DS1312 rod, an ES3096L end, and an ES2079S link to do the replacement for about $95.
Qty (2) StrongArm 4325 1998 To 2010 Rear Hatchback Lift Supports Struts W/O Spoiler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007RVQYI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0RiUCbDKH81JV
Fit my 03 EX perfectly.
Here is the first one on Google
Ebay probably has more.
No, but neither do the other kits.
If you want a full on lift kit, they cost a considerable amount more.
Front springs: http://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Express-RE1310-Coil-Spring/dp/B006GJKBGC
Shocks: http://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Express-SK010645RXT-Twintube-Shock/dp/B006GJJUYG
Rear springs: http://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Express-RE1462-Leaf-Spring/dp/B006GJKG1W
OR rear shackles: http://www.amazon.com/Jeep-Cherokee-Suspension-Leveling-Shackles/dp/B00X8JPJCE
Rear SYE Driveshaft: http://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-5076-1-Drive-4-6-inch/dp/B00B2AEV4S
SYE: http://www.amazon.com/Jeep-Heavy-Duty-Slip-Eliminator/dp/B007I5B6PS
Extended front brake lines: http://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-Extended-Stainless-4-6-inch/dp/B00B2AF5LQ
Extended rear line: http://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-Extended-Stainless-4-6-inch/dp/B00B2AF61ArefRID
Front Trackbar: http://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-Front-Adjustable-1-5-4-5-inch/dp/B00B2AF0MU
Leafspring shims: http://www.amazon.com/Warrior-Products-800062-2-5-Degree/dp/B004NOTHSK
And of course, the long arm kit you pick.
That list comes to 2k, and has everything you need.
a full pre-assembled long arm kit will cost you about 2k(see here: https://www.claytonoffroad.com/search-shop?field_product_vehicle_tid[]=12&field_product_categories_tid[]=66). Kits usually dont include everything you need, either... Buying parts you need separately will save you cash, and you can opt for a more expensive, or less expensive part. Be prepared to turn a wrench... the more turns you put in, the more cash you save(in most situations).
What you're asking is "I want a lift, but don't know what to ask about". The above is ALL the shit you need to get 4.5" out of your jeep without being a huge cheapass and doing it wrong. It's expensive to lift a jeep, and people seem to think that doing things like using blocks, pucks and a transfercase drop is the right way. Sure, you may only spend $100 to get 2.5 inches, but you'll see extreme vibration, issues with steering and tracking, pinion oiling, etc.
Save your cash and do it right the first time.
First order of business is to get it in as good running condition as possible. All the mods in the world won't help if you are broken down. Find out what is causing your CEL and get it fixed.
The bouncy ride is likely due to bad/worn out shocks. Replace them with higher quality parts. You can get Monroe load adjusting rear shocks (look like coil overs) for about $90 for both. They are helpful for fighting rear end sag when you are loaded up. There are a lot of options for the front shocks depending on what kind of ride you prefer.
If your shocks were neglected, your other suspension components might be used up too. Replace the upper control arms, lower ball joints, tie rod ends, and might as well check the brakes too. Check to make the bearings in your wheel hubs aren't worn out either. If you can't stop or a wheel falls off, you will be in rough shape.
Change all of your fluids too if you can. This includes your differentials, transfer case, engine oil, trans, and coolant. You never know when the last time some of those have been changed, or what kind of condition the oil/fluid is in until you check. Test your battery or replace it if it is over 5 years old.
As far as mods go, start off with the basics. Get good tires that are designed for off road use, not passenger rated street tires. You can fit 31x10.5r15 tires with no problems or modification needed. Your tire choice will vary depending on the terrain you most often travel on and budget. Because of the 4wd system in your v8 explorer, you should also get a spare in the same size as your other tires. If you do get a flat, you can burn out drivetrain components because the smaller spare has to spin more than the larger tires in order to cover the same distance.
If you do want a slight lift, you can crank your torsion bar adjusting bolts in the front for a 1.5" gain. Any more than that and you will be putting too much strain on your cv joints. You will need to get an alignment after a torsion twist though. However, if you are replacing your ball joints and other front end parts too, you'll need to get an alignment anyway. For the back, you can buy a set of longer shackles (Warrior 153) that connect the rear part of your springs to the frame. That should get you about 2" more clearance in the back. You can also use an add a leaf spring to help bring the rear up more. An add a leaf will make your ride much more stiff in the rear though. If you have running boards, remove them for more clearance as well.
Set up proper recovery points in the front and rear. There aren't any good places to pull from stock, and you don't want to go breaking anything while you are trying to get out of a mess in the middle of nowhere. Also, check to make sure you have the factory fuel tank skid plate. It isn't 1/4" laser cut steel, but it is better than nothing. If you don't have one, look in a local junk yard.
You might want to get some new headlight housings too. They tend to fog and not do much at all. They are easy enough to replace and will make a huge difference on and off road. Auxiliary lights like Hellas, KCs, or maybe a lightbar will be very helpful if you find yourself off-road in the dark very often. Most of these aux lights come in a kit complete with a relay, fuse, switch, and a wiring harness. Installation is pretty straight forward and can be done well in a few hours (even if you have never done any electrical work before).
Other than that, just get out and enjoy the process of figuring out what you really need from your vehicle. Learn proper recovery techniques and always go with another vehicle if you can. Always pack emergency gear like a first aid kit, extra clothes, food, water, flashlight, and a handful of tools for quick fixes. You might find that you need a winch, awning, rtt, storage drawers, dual batteries, and full armor eventually, but it is better to build as you go to find out what is really necessary for you.
There are not a ton of aftermarket modifications for second gen Explorers, so you might have to do some custom work (or find someone who can do it for you). I'd advise that you do as much of the maintenance on your own as you can. That way if something fails, you will know where to begin troubleshooting and will hopefully be able to fix it. If you haven't already found it, ExplorerForum.com is a VERY helpful place. Tons of DIY guides and other resources for Explorer owners.
Start of a long line of new parts for the 2000 XJ:
Finally got the ball joints out yesterday around 1pm.
Had to go get an impact gun to even touch the axle nut. Then the damn 13mm 12 point bolts that hold the hub in. Some how I did not strip a single one but have no faith in putting them back in, so now waiting for new bolts to be delivered. Every single cotter pin on the ball joints were so rusted and pushed into the castle nut that I couldn't get them out, so go get new impact sockets (and another trip for swivel sockets for the upper) and unleash all hell to shear the cotter pins off.
Finally got to pushing the ball joints out and the OTC set receiving cup is a touch to big for the lower ball joint, so off to Harbor Freight to get an adapter set.
Anyways, half a rant but happy to hopefully have a Jeep that wont wobble down the road.
Basically buy two of these, remove old struts, and install them: StrongArm 6304 Jeep Grand... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0031HT8JS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
There's a video on YouTube on how to install but it basically takes 3 minutes.
Thanks for the quick reply! re: broken bolts - I'm doing the job in about 2 weeks and I've been PB blasting all the bolts every couple of days to try and avoid it, but I also just picked up an air hammer and this flag nut piece from rough country, just in case.
I never use a fork. It fucks up the boots. If you're going to re-use the BJ then you need to replace the boots too.
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6295-Front-End-Service/dp/B0002SRH7O/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1519668512&sr=8-5&keywords=otc+ball+joint+press+kit
I have this kit. Just put the castle nut on upside down to protect the threads and to prevent the thing from flying apart when it pops. If I'm replacing the ball joint, I use a big hammer instead as the others have pointed out.
https://smile.amazon.com/Dorman-929-301-Leaf-Spring-Cherokee/dp/B005VPS358/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492782578&sr=8-1&keywords=jeep+cherokee+rear+leaf+springs
They are even cheaper on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Dee-Zee-DZ43204-Tailgate-Assist/dp/B01AP2BNS0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494219724&sr=8-4&keywords=deezee+tailgate+assist
https://www.amazon.com/Cal-Van-Tools-946-Profile-Inner/dp/B0066PI154/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520566534&sr=8-3&keywords=inner+tie+rod+tool
Thank me later. Its simple, cheap and works on every size/design that I've come across so far. And dont worry about stripping/rounding edges because this thing bites hard when tightened down. It also takes almost no room in your box unlike the other designs of inner tie rod tools.
Here you go:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H5SJGA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1AUFI5NHGNZ61&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031HT8JS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
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You can also do the trunk:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5Dun6iNnoY
Here's a list of the parts you'll need /u/RebornSpartan . I did pretty much the same thing last year.
Also, if you replace one wheel bearing I'd suggest knocking out the other one while you're at it. That also gives you the chance to check the axle shaft u-joints while you're at it.
2x Timken HA597449 Axle Bearing and Hub Assembly - $150
You will also need a 36mm socket specific for the nut on the axle shaft. I bought this one from Amazon when I ordered the wheel bearings: TEKTON 4936 1/2-Inch Drive by 36 mm Deep Impact Socket, 6-Point - $14.
Something to be aware of (paranoia at its finest) is the possibility that your hub bolts may be rusted all to hell and need replaced. Or in case you want to replace them "just because". You can get them from Quadratec @ $4/ea and you will need a total of 3 for each side. Crown Automotive 34201535 Front Knuckle To Hub Bolt
Here are the Moog part #s for the ZJ tie rod upgrade:
1x Moog DS1312 ZJ Tie Rod End - $54
1x Moog ES3096L XJ/ZJ Tie Rod End - $26
You can generally re-use the adjusting sleeve that's already on the components you're going to replace, but in case you want/need a new adjusting sleeve it's only an additional $15.
1x Moog ES2079S XJ/ZJ Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve - $15
While you're down there mucking about with the steering, you should check the drag link and the track bar as well.
If you need/want to replace the drag link assembly, here are the part #s you'll need. Again, you can generally get away with re-using the adjusting sleeve so that will save you $15 if you do.
1x Moog DS1238 Tie Rod End aka Drag Link - $60
1x Moog ES3096L XJ/ZJ Tie Rod End - $26
1x Moog ES2079S XJ/ZJ Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve - $15
For the track bar:
1x Moog DS1235 XJ Track Bar - $59
Now, on to the sway bar links. If the links themselves are still good, all you need to do is replace the bushings.
2x Moog K3150 Sway Bar Link Repair Kit - $17
If your links are crap (usually the top bolt is rusted all to hell, or people don't want to screw with pressing out the old bushings) you can get two of these kits to just do a straight replacement.
2x Moog K3174 Stabilizer Bar Link Kit - $38
And don't forget to replace the mounting bushings for the sway bar while you're at it, also.
1x Moog K3171 Sway Bar Bushing Kit - $10
If you want to do a full suspension redo, not just add a leaf this is what I did. I didn't do sway bar disconnects.
Skyjacker 0-3inch shock absorbers
Dorman leaf springs ~2" http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-929-301-Leaf-Spring-Cherokee/dp/B005VPS358
Moog coil springs:http://www.amazon.com/Moog-CC782-Variable-Rate-Spring/dp/B000C53ZSC/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
sorry links are in .ca because that's where I ordered them, but you'll have the right part number.
sleeve : https://www.amazon.ca/Moog-ES2079S-Steering-Center-Link/dp/B000C57VBY
tie rod end (long) : https://www.amazon.ca/Moog-DS1312-Steering-Center-Link/dp/B000C5400E
tie rod end (small) : https://www.amazon.ca/Moog-ES3096L-Tie-Rod-End/dp/B000C59W7U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465312612&sr=8-1&keywords=ES3096
here's the thickness difference between both to give you an idea: http://www.stu-offroad.com/steering/zjtie/tie-1.jpg
lets take the lift out of the equation here...
http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-929-301-Leaf-Spring-Cherokee/dp/B005VPS358/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395953396&sr=8-1&keywords=jeep+cherokee+rear+leaf+spring
still 100 bucks a spring for a OE style replacement. I'm not trying to bust your balls here man, just saying leaf springs are more expensive then coils any day.
coils:
http://www.amazon.com/Moog-CC782-Variable-Rate-Spring/dp/B000C53ZSC/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1395953494&sr=8-13&keywords=jeep+cherokee+front+coil+spring
61 for a pair of stock height, with free shipping!
Forget the AAL, do it right from the beginning. $250 shipped from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Express-RE1463-Leaf-Spring/dp/B006GJKFHW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510251782&sr=8-3&keywords=rubicon+express+leaf+springs
edit: $250 is for two leaf packs. Shipped. When you buy cheap, you buy twice.
Did you try using one of these guys? Pops them right out. http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6295-Front-End-Service/dp/B0002SRH7O
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005VPS358/
Not "HD" springs but they include bushings and are under $100
StrongArm 6304 Jeep Grand... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0031HT8JS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I bought two of these. Had to buy two singles for some reason amazon wouldn’t ship a pair to California.
Century Spring C-77 2 Count... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H5SJGA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Bought this spring.
There are several how to videos. The process is simple and takes 5 minutes. remove oem shock replace, remove second oem shock replace. Test opening function. Then pull up the cover that has the illuminated frunk release button and replace heavy spring with lightweight one.
One of the how to videos showed that doing this does not prevent the frunk safety catch from operating.
Edit video https://imgur.com/a/K3cUFZ1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GH1OH4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Daystar-KJ09114BK-Front-Bump-Stop/dp/B001GH1OCO
Older Jeeps (pre 97 I believe) - https://www.amazon.com/Daystar-KJ09101BK-Bump-Stop-Piece/dp/B001GH1O9C/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1487952975&sr=1-1&keywords=KJ09101Bk
Cheapest you'll find them (unless you use hockey pucks up front). Just did mine on my ~3-3.5" lift with 33's.
Haven't done the fronts yet - can you do them without taking out springs? I really don't feel like taking the springs out, I reluctantly did it doing the lift but spring compressors fucking terrify me.
Just did mine over the weekend! Amazing upgrade for so little money and effort. This really should have been OEM on the TJ. Hardest part of the job was pulling out the cotter pin on the wheel side!
For anyone that wants to do this upgrade:
Moog DS1312 Tie Rod End
Moog ES3096L Tie Rod End
Moog ES2079S Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve
Get yourself some rustoleum (I went with flat black enamel) and put a few coats on it. While installing, know that the little end is reverse threaded.
It’s a type of “dampener” device that lets your tailgate down easily. The mod costs $20-$25. Several options exist out there. Here’s the one I used:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AP2BNS0/
Bought as a pair on Amazon. Just over $100 w/ shipping. Now the time we spent swapping them out... well that was probably 15 hours total. We're not fast.
Edit: they will fit a 97 Explorer.
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-924-358-Passenger-Shock-Mount/dp/B01D8VJJAO
Good as new! /s
So here she is... I'm planning to give some attention to the suspension because as you can see she is a bit slouched. I don't want to get to high so I'm looking at just replacing the leaf springs with these; https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B005VPS358/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A1VMTU9W4873PK&psc=1
and the coils with these;
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B000C53ZSC/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1.
However these are spec'd to provide some over stock height by 1.5" - 2"
Therefore I am wondering if the shocks that come with this rough country 1.5" lift will work. http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-suspension-lift-kit-680-20.html
Really happy to be a part of this group and appreciate all advice and critique!
Word of Advice!!!!
Make sure you have Replacement bolts for the Rear Leafs! Go to a Spring Shop for them, no Hardware store will have them..
Also, get this..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01996PZYQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Return it if not needed..
Heres everything I bought for my lift, the swaybar end links are of course optional, so are the bumpstops: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019HXJFBA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K5FP2SE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2AF0MU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2AFKP2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GH1OCO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C57XJY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Third this, I got mine on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000C5400E/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1 go to that link and scroll down to frequently bought together and it's everything you need
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031HT8JS/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Super cheap.
You can find new springs that give you an inch or two of lift (from stock), but that don't require any additional suspension changes. That's what I'm planning to do with mine. Ill see if I can dig up a link.
Edit- right here:
Crown Automotive 52001125 Front Coil Spring https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VPV5NC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_g7BAxbQ58PFHG
Crown Automotive 4886186AA Leaf Spring Assembly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009X1YAZS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_87BAxb1Q5X1GA
I think those are the right ones, but double check. And don't forget about new bushings for the leaf springs.
Yeah, looking at it it’s a bit slower than yours. I used the Jeep ones from amazon.
StrongArm 6304 Jeep Grand... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0031HT8JS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It’s a cylinder. I think this is it...
Amazon Link
Couple of ideas for you.
This is a stock spring package that directly replaces your worn out springs and gives you around 1.5 inches of lift for less than $250. I did this to my 94 XJ and i can tell you that'll help make some room for for those 30s. It's also easily boosted to a 3 to3.5 inch lift for around $90 more.
Front coils
Rear leaves
Edit: Look into getting longer bump stops as they'll help keep your tires out of the fenders. Here are the ones I picked up.
Front
Rear
I havent ordered them yet, but
http://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Express-RE1463-Leaf-Spring/dp/B006GJKFHW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1408667598&sr=8-2&keywords=xj+rear+leaf+springs
It’s not a Honda part, this is what I bought. Install was quick and easy, and raises the clearance a few inches so you don’t hit your head.
I have basically the same thing, except the STX with 20" wheels. Same color scheme, everything. I loved the black on blue.
A lot of people tow similar setups with similar type vehicles. I have 2 suggestions: 1) Try to make sure there is not too much weight behind the axle. 2) consider installing a sway bar. They are super cheap and fairly easy to install. (https://www.amazon.com/Pro-83660-Value-Friction-Control/dp/B0016KJ5MC/ - this one is marketed under a lot of brands, but under "Pro-Series," it is cheapest"
Funny enough my previous tires were 235/75s and my springs in the rear sagged like crazy. The wheels would rub when I would haul things.
I used Dorman leaf spring assembly's that already had built in bushings. Here's the link for the rears:
Dorman 929-301 Leaf Spring for Jeep Cherokee, Pack of 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005VPS358/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3ozTybXGCSV7Q
I'll have to come back to you with that measurement!
Yup $200 for the whole panel. https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-924-358-Passenger-Shock-Mount/dp/B01D8VJJAO/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=dorman+924-358&qid=1550776379&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull#customerReviews
Looks like people have had good success with it. Ford and the nicest body shop in town didn't want to do it because they won't do work they can't warranty. I just want to get a year or two out of the vehicle.
I have a 17 stx. Haven’t done any major upgrades yet but cheaper things I’ve added are
Future stuff I want to add include
Consider just adding a sway bar with no WDH.
https://smile.amazon.com/CURT-45820-Sway-Ball-Mount/dp/B003AT6EYO/
https://smile.amazon.com/Pro-83660-Value-Friction-Control/dp/B0016KJ5MC/
Not knowing your year, 4wd or 2wd, I guessed for a 2000 4wd cherokee. Labor is between $70-$110/hr at most places. It's $85/hr at a place I'm very uh familiar with.
ball joints $23.64 x 4
https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K3134T-Ball-Joint/dp/B000C542NY
Tie rod ends $25.99 x 2
https://www.amazon.com/Moog-ES3096L-Tie-Rod-End/dp/B000C59W7U
U-Joint $20.07
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Jeep/Cherokee/Moog/U_Joint/2000/MO371.html?apwcid=gglpla&gclid=CIjEl_zD09ACFYyLaQodfTYC3Q
OR buy the entire kit
http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-packagedeal041
Non-mobile:
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble.
I think your local mechanic just doesn't want to install new leaf springs because it's kind of a bitch.
There are cheaper ways to do it, but you can get a brand new pair for about $230, I put these in my 93 and they include the bushings (but not the shackle bolts) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005VPS358/?coliid=IR3CWRIGZE8TL&colid=3B3H2P3OO3L7T&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
My leaf springs were also inverted and I gained about 4" of lift in the rear with these and some longer shackles.
Tbh I'm surprised you aren't having issues with the rear tires hitting the wheel wells
I've tried to find all the piece for my 2" lift and have a little list in my head of what I think I want to do. So far I've compiled this:
For the front: a set of 2" lift coils from rusty's offroad
http://www.rustysoffroad.com/rustys-coils-xj-2-front.html
For the rear: a set of crown medium duty leaf springs, will get you about 1.5" lift, plus a rusty's .75" shackle
http://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-suspension/jeep-leaf-spring-accessories/jeep-leaf-spring-shackles-lift-shackles/rustys-shackles-xj-75-extended-greasable-pair.html
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009X1YAZS/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_1_9?colid=W63HLMFZQRLM&coliid=I9CA8BL9ZABZD
And for shocks, I haven't really decided yet. I might just go for a set of rancho shocks since I can get those for decently cheap through my work. All of the little things I figure I'll wait until the time comes to deal with those since I can't foresee what will happen when I go to put the lift on.
I am going to do my ball joints next month first time, been watching this appears easy to do https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ol3TPHzvHk&t=924s. For ball joints if you do your homework you'll find every recommends sticking with Spicer https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007N6OHI0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031HT8JS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2 of these for the frunk. Took about 20 min to install w/ a broken hand
You could go with 3.5" Rubicon express leaf springs or 3" OME by ARB leaf springs in the rear. As for front, I'd go with Rubicon express 3.5" coils.
Edit: Don't forget the u bolts (no link because they're different depending on your rear axle), and the t case drop.
WTS: 2x +3.5in Rear leafs for a cherokee. May also fit wrangler. 0 Miles (Still has shipping tags) $150 amazon
WTS: Aftermarket Receiver Hitch for a cherokee $50
WTB: Kayak
WTT: PET for PTFE
https://www.amazon.com/Astro-7897-Service-Tool-Adapter/dp/B00061SGZO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ball+joint+press+astro&qid=1565030427&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Ive been running this balljoint press for 5 years now, no problems. Used it on 3500 Rams, F250s, etc... I do lubricate the threads when I use it though.
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6295-Front-End-Service/dp/B0002SRH7O/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=otc+front+end&qid=1565030542&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyUzhUWERXVTNHUE00JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDE1ODkwQ0tJWUhOSkpKV1BHJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAzNzk2NjJBN1RPUTBBMkE3MzImd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
This front end set is worth it's weight in gold, had it 8 years, broke the two jaw puller trying to unload a torsion bar - so don't do that.
Any puller from OTC is going to be quality. In fact, anything from OTC will not dissapoint. That's why you see so much of it rebranded to blue point or matco
I am pretty well versed in jeeps, I've done several lifts and more than a few suspensions on various vehicles. I have the tools and know how to do everything, just as an FYI.
I am pretty set about getting the Zone 3" lift or possibly the RE 3.5" super-ride lift... regardless, that doesn't matter. the point is that both are available with AAL (long leaf) or full leaf pack.
Alright, so here is my question:
I've noticed that if I were to buy the Crown OEM-spec leaf pack (link below) and either AAL kit listed above, it would actually be cheaper than buying the kit with the full leaf pack included.
Can anyone see a reason why NOT to but a new Crown leaf pack, get an AAL as listed above and add it to that new pack, and save myself a little coin? Or is there a better reason to buy the full pack with the lift kit for the extra money?
Crown OEM leaf pack: https://www.amazon.com/Crown-Automotive-4886186AA-Spring-Assembly/dp/B009X1YAZS
I can see the higher prices for bed covers that are electric or whatever, but the ones that are some aluminum and hinges seem way overpriced. Oh man, you overpaid at 60, those puppies are 25 on amazon - https://www.amazon.com/Dee-Zee-DZ43204-Tailgate-Assist/dp/B01AP2BNS0/ref=sr_1_1?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7Ifa4-nk4wIVD5-fCh0Ghg6YEAAYASAAEgJfWfD_BwE&hvadid=324825934280&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9002290&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=b&hvrand=13704358256447364681&hvtargid=kwd-330416795004&hydadcr=6149_9589956&keywords=tailgate+assist&pd_rd_r=7587b763-2400-4676-bfea-a3c7dbe9353f&pd_rd_w=I19xi&pd_rd_wg=AgeHF&pf_rd_p=9ff8ac19-86ca-4471-91f7-d0c0ecfc7454&pf_rd_r=WWK6FEAYW5SCQMF0M5VP&qid=1564770890&s=automotive&sr=1-1&vehicle=2016-54-666-656-87-53-6-8-20042--8-1-2937--&vehicleName=2016+Ford+F-150
This is what you want. Well worth it and easy install.
Rubicon Express RE1463 3.5" Leaf Spring for Jeep XJ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006GJKFHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UmW4Bb1P3E970
I tow a 30 footer with slide. Weight comes out around 8700 lbs. I installed one of these from Reese, and it made a huge difference in windy driving conditions.
Wow three inches! My shocks have 90k on them I probably wouldn't see that much haha. I'm not really after suspension lift in the rear, I've been thinking I would level it with a t-bar crank and then get a body lift later on. I like the idea of more load support. How is the ride?
Are these the ones you got?
http://www.amazon.com/Monroe-58617-Sensa-Trac-Adjusting-Absorber/dp/B000C53RXK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
> Turned out the drag link clamp was turning despite the nuts not being loose
Replace it if needed
how about the Crown Springs on Amazon?
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B009X1YAZS/?coliid=I1MRHVGIW27JPS&colid=TIXHMEUDZMSU&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Dorman 929-301 Leaf Spring for Jeep Cherokee, Pack of 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005VPS358/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_5HU4aN3uIEDRl
Dorman 722-024 Leaf Spring Shackle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A195TN8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_38T55FkKZrZlk
Kept the U-bolts
http://www.morris4x4center.com/coil-spring-52001122.html?utm_campaign=map&utm_medium=email&utm_source=yotpo&yotpo_token=5c055200d7e5d61e6a7288fe977d4cc04aa61bcc
Springs felt softer than the old ones I took out. But that's just a feeling.
I've looked at the same kit and it doesn't come with that piece as far as I can tell. Link
Getting the the ball joint detached from the spindle is a pain. I bought this and it helped a lot:
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6295-Front-End-Service/dp/B0002SRH7O
I ended up replacing the entire LCA as another user mentioned. With an '08, you'd probably need a reciprocating saw to cut them off if you went that route.
I've used a tool similar to this on a Toyota, you just need a few long extensions.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0066PI154.
Cal-Van Tools 946 Low Profile Inner Tie Rod Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0066PI154/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5kAVAbYY7JF97
Here's something incredibly minor: I just put a tailgate assist shock on my '17 today. It takes about 10 minutes to install, feels great when you lower the tailgate, and only costs $25.
I have this
http://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-Front-Disconnects-3-5-6-5-inch/dp/B00C0XC56C
Cheaper then most have no issues with it.
I just bought these and I am pleased.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005VPS358?pc_redir=1411222595&robot_redir=1
I've never experienced a sway problem (RV bought new last August) and it's only through more reading that I added one for this trip. I didn't notice any difference on this trip with sway control versus previous without but maybe it's one of those where you don't need it until you do? I have always had a WDH fitted.
I went with a cheap one off Amazon
I had the front figured out with these springs supposidly good for 2 inches. As for the rears I was hoping to avoid a bastard pack.
Are the the upcountry leaves from an XJ trim?
If you are looking to replace the drag link, I would highly suggest upgrading everything down there to the V8 Grand Cherokee set. It is a solid setup, whereas the TJ's are just tubes. Here are the following amazon links to completely replace them:
Moog ES2079S Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve
Moog ES3096L Tie Rod End
Moog DS1312 Tie Rod End
Moog DS1310 Tie Rod End
It may seem like a bit of money at the moment, but these parts are actually cheaper than buying the TJ version of the same parts! The V8 is not in high demand, and as such the prices are lower compared to the much more popular TJ parts.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005VPS358/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have a 2" shackle lift on the back and my stock springs were flat so I decided to get the HD OEM ones. The jeep has kind of a Rat Fink stance now but Dr Google says that it will flatten out eventually.
I used these on my 04 and they worked great. I don't know if you can cross-reference the two numbers to verify fitment.
I had considered that but I needed new struts anyways. Two birds, one stone. The Monroe strut spring combo fixed the sag and I got new struts.
http://www.monroe.com/en-US/e-catalog/58617
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000C53RXK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1477966664&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=58617