Best tape caulk according to redditors

2" in x 100' Black Pipe Wrapping Wrap Tape 10 Mil Ultra Sticky Corrosion Inhibitor Plumbing Irrigation Utility Waterproofing UV Resistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C9CV8CZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ane8BbGAZWZNR

Nashua Tape 1.89 in. x 35 yd. HVAC Line Set Tape in Black
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-Tape-1-89-in-x-35-yd-HVAC-Line-Set-Tape-in-Black-1423811/301395845

This is the good stuff!
https://store.acpro.com/e-flex-guard-uv-lineset-cover-fits-5-8-7-8-with-3-4-wall-75-roll


I nice little penetration. Giggity
https://store.acpro.com/titan-gs30-outlet-1-wall-seal-for-linesets

I didn't realize this isn't r/HVAC
Looks good man

Having just replaced my own kitchen sink recently, and going through hell...

The top part, grey pipe into the white pipe . It's the wrong piece. You want a new connection like your middle one, that threads.

As for the drain that goes into your wall, you want to pull the white pipe out (it should be nesseled into a large pipe - usually black or grey - that is inside the wall) do not yank it. If it pulls out easily, then you need to apply glue. Is it does not budge, that means that it is already glued; which would be a bigger issue that I can't help with on-line.

All items can be found at hardware stores; but I have found that getting the right fitting for the sink is the hard part (when I installed a dishwasher in a house that never had one before). The key is making sure that you either open all the packs and make sure that everything screws together before you take it home, or be super great at visualization. This also needs to be applied to ALL threads, even if they do not leak.

Boxer squonk box clone

This was only $15 from 3FVape (compared to $140 for an authentic). Surprisingly good fit and finish although the bottle is junk. I had to wrap the threads with teflon tape to make an airtight seal with the bottle cap. Otherwise squeezing just pushed the air out and no juice. But seems to work good now.

The thing is tiny and weighs almost nothing when empty. That's a Goon 24 on top with an aftermarket squonk pin. Had to build down to 0.15 to get a decent vape out it (using a Sony VTC5A battery). Normally not a mech mod fan but thought I'd try this since it's so small (especially compared to my Lost Vape Drone squonker) and maybe get the authentic 2x700 version later.

Edit: Didn't notice the numberplates on the cars outside, made stupid assumption that you were in North America ––

Here is a nice selection of weatherstripping profiles: Screwfix Link.

Check what is still existing on your windows -- at the top edge it will be squeezed between the hinge leaves, at the sides and bottom there should be a seal on the little sticky-outy-edge (that sticks out into the open space when the window is open) that seals against the edge 1cm of the inside face of the moveable pane.

If you can match and replace the same seal profiles in those spots it will help tremendously. There also may be an additional "sweep" profile closer to the outside edge of the window at the sides and bottom. If close inspection of the window reveals details of a maker/installer that is still trading, they may direct you to where original specification EPDM sealing-profiles can be obtained.

The "rope caulk" I mention below as an immediate cheap temporary solution is sold as "Thermwell-F4-Mortite" in the EU.

If you can't match the existing, use self-adhesive foam or "p" or "d" EPDM "draft excluder" (better) and stick it in the following places:

• At the bottom and 2 sides of the movable pane, on the edge of the inside face or its mating opposite "stop".

• At the top (hinged) edge of the window, on the top of the movable pane or the mating portion of the frame.

DIAGRAM

>drtonmeister reads the text, composes a complete answer and posts it. THEN he looks at the picture and thinks "wait a minute, those are the same windows we had in the house in 'no-NOT-near-Vancouver-the-OTHER-Surrey' "

>As an easy, fast, cheap, highly-effective, (but not very pretty) solution, "rope caulk" can be pressed onto the face of the window at the edges that aren't sealing.

>If windows had bronze weatherstripping that was damaged or binding, it sometimes gets removed so that the window is easily operable. All you need to pop in replacement bronze pieces in the missing/damaged sections is available online from specialist suppliers.

>More likely it had rubber or foam that has degraded over time, and it's best to replace like for like if you can, but also not rocket-science to stick on "p"-strip in the appropriate spots so that it will compress and seal when the window is closed

Yep. Ok, so all joking aside, your hinge ideas seem fine, if you go the route of replacement, just make sure the screw hole distance is the same and the spacing and diameter of the hole in the door is the same that you're replacing. From the pictures in your OP it look doable. Another option could be, putting a strip of high density foam tape around the three sides of the cabinet doors that aren't the hinge side. This is basic door weatherstripping stuff that will easily muffle the sound of them closing much more than the bumpers, be a lot cheaper than new hinges or dampeners, but on the down side, might look iffy. You can research around and find this stuff in most basic colors, at least natural common tones like white, black, beige, etc.

http://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-B2-Caulking-19-ounce/dp/B000LNODSQ/ref=lp_495372_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1398561132&sr=1-2

Air seal your windows

Frost King B2 Mortite Caulking Cord 19-ounce 90-Foot Long, Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LNODSQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_l01WBbJ6PPGSZ

Duck Brand Indoor 5-Window Shrink Film Insulator Kit, 62-Inch x 210-Inch, 281504 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NHY1P0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_L01WBbTRWFW1E

It's not cold in Boston, but it will be cold in Boston. You're going to love January and February.

Also, you need to get window plastic. I live in an old Somerville house with old wooden drafty windows. The plastic and the putty/clay are key. See:

http://www.amazon.com/Duck-281506-10-Window-Insulator-420-Inch/dp/B002GKC2GW/
http://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-B2-Caulking-19-ounce/dp/B000LNODSQ/

I moved up from the south 2 years ago and had the same questions for /r/boston


In typical fashion.......they did the same thing they are doing to you. Laughing, and being dicks instead of trying to help.

My place was old, the heaters were not working, and their were leaking windows everywhere. I bought this

Caulking Cord

and

window kit

and

Heater

I very legally could have gone to the housing authority and reported my landlord for the lack of adequate heating (and broken radiators) but decided that this stuff worked just fine. First winter I couldn't get the house above 62, and some rooms I am sure were much colder. The electric and gas bill was insane.

Second year we just don't even bother using the radiators at all, we use the space heater, a heating blanket, and sealed all the windows and doors (balcony) with that caulk. The house was still cold, but we were warm. This seems to be a common tactic up here, heat yourself not the house.

I also looked into buying one of these bed heater, but I don't want to sweat in the middle of the night and the bedroom is pretty easy to heat with that space heater.

Good luck. Also, most people up here can be dicks when it comes to heating/cold complaints. Just sit back and laugh at what these people call a severe thunderstorm, most of them would shit their pants if they ever experienced a regular summer storm in the south.

If the plastic wrap can't stay up, try this, it's what I used and it's very really well, much better than plastic wrap alone.

http://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-B2-Caulking-19-ounce/dp/B000LNODSQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1416509160&sr=8-2&keywords=removable+caulk

Also, PSA: The plastic wrap doesn't apply very well when it's below 50 degrees, so this week could potentially be the last week to get a good application. The penalty for applying it when it's cold is loose plastic wrap that comes apart when you heat shrink it.

Buy rope caulk for the windows if they're drafty.

http://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-B2-Caulking-19-ounce/dp/B000LNODSQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459092836&sr=8-1&keywords=rope+caulk

Two suggestions come to mind...

1. The tape falling off in the cold makes me think that you either live in an incredibly cold climate (definitely possible, you didn't state your location), or possibly that you aren't getting a good seal with the tape against the frame. Try cleaning the frames with rubbing alcohol and warming them up with a hair dryer before apply the tape. That should bring out the best stickiness that the tape has to offer.
   
   
2. If that fails, I have seen persons build something akin to a mini cold frame that they put into their window. Essentially they build a frame the same size as the recessed area that the window resides in, wrap that in plastic, and then put it into the recessed area and press rope caulk (like this http://amzn.to/1djVDby) around that wooden frame to create an air barrier. Definitely more work, but if you are living somewhere that is really damn cold, it might be worth it.
   
   Good luck keeping warm!

The arm's definitely floppy, and it's from early 2000s so it could be the threads. Would this work?

The bend is probably 90 degrees, not sure about the distance, I'll try and measure it tomorrow.

Yo!

1/4" MFL to Beer Nut Adaptor (SS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GQ9T2N9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4RcDDbCETXK69

Brewery Gaskets Brand 25-Pack EPDM Beer Line Coupling Washer +Bonus Sticker! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BFK92IO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fTcDDbJ6EAJ62

LASCO 11-1033 PTFE Pipe Sealant Tape, 1/2-Inch x 100-Inch, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ITPHXZI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QTcDDbSM2EVJM

A little plumber's tape could help as well.

LASCO 11-1033 PTFE Pipe Sealant Tape, 1/2-Inch x 100-Inch, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ITPHXZI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_.p10Bb6C0JMH2