Best temperature probes & sensors according to redditors
We found 113 Reddit comments discussing the best temperature probes & sensors. We ranked the 56 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 113 Reddit comments discussing the best temperature probes & sensors. We ranked the 56 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
![YINGTU Temperature Controller, Pre-Wired Outlet Thermostat Digital, Dual Stage Heating and Cooling Control for Brewing Fermentation Kegerator, Aquarium, Reptile Keeping. 110V±15%, 10A [ Updated]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41ViSbgKqiL.jpg)
Note, links here with a [!] are ones not in the album.
Off to the right is a desk which has been converted to a ghetto entertainment center. I'd rather buy servers than furniture! My apartment is absolutely tiny anyway, like 600 SQFT. Logitech 2.1, Dell S2740L. I'd not pay that much for a dashboard monitor, but, I use it for media as well, so the price of it new when I got it, nearly 450 after taxes/shipping, was worth it.
The last two graphs honestly tell me a LOT. ELK Stack is WAY more powerful than I thought. Unfortunately I don't like how Kibana's dashboards look, so save the geoIP stuff, I am using Grafana all the way. TODO: Get the Pie chart plugin working!
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Power is metered/controlled with THIS switch. Make sure you have no way of shutting this off! Else you cut power to the whole lab. So far it hasn't had any random-shutoff issues. So I'm happy.
This lab has taught me A TON, entertained me during off hours, given me uninterrupted sanctuary, prepped me for exams, and everything. After I get MCSA, the R710s + C2100 will be clustered to teach me much more advanced stuff for VCP5/VCP6 study.
I would invest in a PT100 thermocouple It's waterproof and accurate for your needs.
I've built two rigs based loosely on the Seattle Food Geek project and they worked fine so you could check that out.
A good PID controlled system should eliminate the worry about putting cold ingredients into the bath. It's really not a problem if the water drops, you should be much more concerned about how quickly it recovers and how constant of a temp it can hold. +/- 0.3C is what my DIY rig would hold. If it varies more than 1C I would see that being a problem but less than that and you'll have decent results.
The DS18B20 comes with a 1 m cord and is accurate. Adafruit has very straight-forward instructions.
The temperature probe is in the main column inserted down from the end cap. It sits directly in the vapor path at the 90 degree turn.
The PID controller has an auto-learn feature; after one setup session (where it bounced the temperature all over the place and recorded data) it can hold the steam temperature incredibly steady at just about any temperature.
Parts:
It's a 90° k-type made by Vakind. Here's the link to amazon where I got it: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009HW44F4/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/175-4818327-4633842?ref_=cm_sw_em_r_am_ip_am_us
It fits perfectly behind the left panel of the roaster: http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/sircoupe/8729966516/
I'm a fan of the DS18b20s, I don't use the land line in my house so I disconnected the phone line at the junction box outside, put Rj-11 connectors on the end of some ds18b20s and viola whole home temperature readings for about $10! One wire for the win! Vktech DS18b20 Waterproof Temperature Sensors Temperature Transmitter (5pcs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CHEZ250/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_um4Gyb2TX32HQ maybe a little more than $10...
These guys:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EU70ZL8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
IR really doesn't work that reliably against reflective surfaces.
Personally I use https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0083SZC6S/ with https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GFHYA8 to read it if I need that answered.
They make other K Type Thermocouples but basically you drop the tip in the bucket and it tells you how hot it is.
I tried IR against various surfaces; the only surface it works great at is is non-reflective. So if you have something behind the banger that won't reflect ... you can get a reading
The issue with those temp guns is that they are garbage for any kind of reflective surface, even with adjusted emissivity.
If you want to know the REAL dish temperature, i suggest you get a contact thermocouple and sit it directly in the bottom of the dish, touching it. You'll get a MUCH more accurate read. My emissivity adjusted temp gun reads about 75 degrees out (higher or lower) than a contact k-type does. It's also a pain in the ass to know if it's really looking at the bottom of the dish, or just some heat radiating off the side. Those lasers aren't lined up well.
Somthing to this effect, usually they can plug into a nice multimeter or a standalone device:
https://www.amazon.com/K-Type-Thermocouple-PK-1000-Temperature-Insulation/dp/B0083SZC6S
Amazon says they are $15.23 after shipping. $15.23 x 60 = $913.8
Ouch!
Ok, northern lights. Day 14.
Started in rapid rooters then Planted in tupur by Gold Coast. Basically coco and perlite mixed.
Canna coco nutes currently at 1/3 recommended. Watered today after waiting 4 days.
All temps/ph is in the photo. I've ordered this and I'm just waiting on its delivery to get the temps higher and humidity in the right range via regulating the exhaust and a humidifier. So that should be fixed as soon as I get it.
Here's my problem, I watered 4 days ago with simple ph'd water(I'm only using nutes every other watering) Afterwards the two lowest true leaves started curling down. The tips touch the soil.
So I slowed down and waited 4 days, the top inch of soil (knuckle deep) was dry 12 hours later but the leaves still showed signs of overwatering so I waited 4 days. Today they were still curled but not as severely. The soil was bone dry 3" down (it's so dry the inside of my cabinet is littered with soil from the fan blowing it around)
Today I watered at 1/3 normal nute strength and the bottom leaves (only the first true leaves) are again curled down so far the tips touch the soil(you can see the tips in the picture on the left and right underside). Again indicating overwatering right?
So what do I do? Water even less? Wait 5-6-7 days?
I'm not soaking all the soil. Like I said it's super dry the next day. Just enough to soak a 5" ring around the plant and maybe get 1 cup of runoff. Which just like the water going in is at around 6.0ph.
Sorry for the long post, just trying to share all the pertinent info. This is my first grow in 6 years and I'm clearly rusty and not very confident.
Suggestions, ideas, insults, any guidance will do folks. Thanks.
Hey using the exact same setup as you for a veg tent at the moment albeit I used 200W 6500k CFLs for bushier growth during first 10 days. I have a 240 CFM 6 inch inline fan I am using without any fan speed controller, I have all 3 flaps open for passive intake and my plants are thriving:
Proof: http://imgur.com/a/fMR5X
Trained 4 of them last night and here's a pic of one: http://i.imgur.com/gWDOjJL.jpg
I am using
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Plug-n-Play-Humidifier-Dehumidifier-Temperature/dp/B01I6BZ2IO/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1481767548&sr=1-1&keywords=temperature+and+humidity+controller
and after you calibrate it to the AccuRite Humidity/Temp Monitor it'll work perfectly.
I plug in for temp when lights on (outlet 1) and humidity with lights off (outlet 2) for my exhaust fan. But unfortunately, since the tent is in a closet, it tends to get humid so fans are always on during lights on or off.
how much do you want to pay to find out?
you can buy a weather station for about 50 bucks that will allow you to record the running temperature on a computer.
or, you can buy a thermometer with an outdoor sensor for about 3 bucks, and a webcam for about 6, then set it to record a frame every 30 minutes or so to your computer with a time and date stamp. More work, but for under 10 bucks you'd have a complete history of the exact temperature inside your fridge.
edit: looks like there are a shitload of temperature monitors for USB that you can just plug into your computer, and they will do things like log the temperature for you and even send an alert to your cellphone if the temperature reaches a certain point. Certainly one to do what you are looking for straight out of the box is out there.
On the cheap I bought this thing and piped it into Nagios in my server rooms:
http://www.amazon.com/Powered-Thermometer-Temperature-Sensor-Data/dp/B0054U4YKI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1341135926&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+temperature+sensor
Now I'm switching to an environment sensor that runs through my new UPS. But honestly that USB thing is a trooper and never gave me issues once I got the script for it running.
OK, Im just going to list a bunch of stuff I've purchased through this process. Nothing is in any particular order.
Almond leaves (for tannin) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LKTX4VC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Moss - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035Q65TQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cholla Wood - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H4FUMHY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Dried red Shrimp (Protein and Chitin) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027JCRVW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Instant Ocean (1/3cup per Gallon) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255NKA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ultrasonic Mister/Fogger (for DIY Fogger) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PAK21WU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Digital Temp Humidity Controller - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I6BZ2IO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
LED White/Blue Light - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0191EWII2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
UTH (You may need to get a different size and this isn't the most recommended, but it works for me currently) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TR4HLEI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (This one has adhesive on the back of it, so you just stick it on like a sticker.)
Cork Bark Board - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019J1VPY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Water Conditioner - https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116043304-Prime-500ml/dp/B00025694O
If you have any questions, please feel free. To mitigate confusion I felt just listing this as a reference first is the best approach. If you are looking for a new tank so that you can get friends, i would suggest 30 or more gallons and work towards that instead of investing into the current tank which would get changed.
Personally with the 5 i have i clearly see they need much more room than the 15 gallon they have now. I am in the process of acquiring an 85-120 gallon tank for permanency. These guys can live 20+ years with the proper care and environment. but not everyone has that freedom. 30 is a totally doable size for 3 crabs. they can grow to jumbos and be fine in there, but im sure if they reach that stage you'll be looking for another tank. Jumbos need at least 12" of substrate for molting.
I'm just about to leave town for a few days, but I'll link you what I have so far. Here are the various parts I am using:
This pump for water
This power supply for my 12v items
This relay board to control valves and the pumps
And these valves
an esp8266 for wifi connectivity with main control computer
Several of these ds18b20 temperature sensors
And these water level float sensors
Beyond that, its just arduino stuff and glue logic, like shift registers and whatnot.
EDIT - also the usual electric brewery stuff, ie water heater elements. Those I've wired to relays to be controllable by the arduino as well.
> The humidity controller is an Inkbird
By the way, Inkbird does a combo controler that controls both temperature and humidity with the same sensor
I used this temperature probe from amazon attached to an old laptop with an old free piece of software called ThermoHID
I'm currently working on a solution using a Particle Photon but basically the same idea. I'm going to open source my code once I'm done but it's really not that hard with some coding experience, an RPi GPIO Python library, a couple of cheap themocouples, and thermocouple amplifiers like the AD8495.
These plus a resistor take about 10 minutes to setup..... I have an old pi 2 running a pair so they tell me the air temp and water temp of an aquarium
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QGN0LKY/
You need some K type thermocouples sir. Most come in waterproof housings.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0142HFA06/ref=pd_aw_sim_79_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=78VK726FEHSSH2C6MRX3
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0142RXG84?psc=1
I used DS18b20 Temperature Sensors. I tied them down to each component. It's difficult to see in the gif, there is a small aluminium cylinder on top of the CPU heat sink. That's the module.
I found these waterproof temperature probes. I'm thinking of putting together some electronics that would use them to collect temperature at a couple different locations every 5 minutes or so for the duration of the fermentation. Having all the data in a couple of files would make it very easy to look at the difference in temperature over the course of the brew.
I don't have a way to control fermentation temperature yet (or anything to ferment for that matter...still putting things together) but do you think this would be useful to share for those who can control fermentation temperature?
The Maxim chips look to be the way to go, in one IC they are doing all the measurement and signal filtering to give you digital data. The Maxim 31855 is the [SPI example at Adafruit] (https://learn.adafruit.com/circuitpython-basics-i2c-and-spi/spi-devices). That guide walks through how they retrieve the data over SPI then use the datasheet to lookup the temperature. Past that there are libraries for the [8155 and 6675] (https://github.com/adafruit?q=MAX) which is [$7 on Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-MAX6675-Thermocouple-Temperature-Arduino/dp/B01HT871SO).
Not familiar with the 2560 but looks like you would use pins 50-52.
I'm going to assume you know what you are doing on the reflow, profiles and layers well out of my depth.
The short, and mostly correct, answer is yes the wires running through the oven will have you reading the oven temperature.
For how a thermocouple works there is a good writeup on [brighthubengineering.com] (http://www.brighthubengineering.com/manufacturing-technology/53682-what-is-a-thermocouple-how-thermocouple-works/). The Thomson effect is the one that allows you to measure the temperature of the mobo with a long probe.
I can't think of a way for you to use a thermocouple to measure the temperature of something actually inside the oven. They can be used to measure temperatures where the cold junction is of a higher temperature than the hot junction so there may be a way I don't understand.
I did the same and so far so good, its been about a month. I had to buy a UTH and thermostat and they worked for my setups which was originally a 10 gal tank and now a 20 gal.
Glad I could help. If you're wanting to build this as a fun project, a pi or arduino is the way to go, and there are a ton of guides out there. The device is called a temperature controller if you need to find more resources.
In the off chance you just need a solution and aren't set on building it yourself, these are a great out of the box option.
​
Edit: just saw this exact product was already posted, oops!
Canada Amazon
[sata to ide $4.15] (https://www.amazon.ca/HDE-SATA-Drive-Interface-Adapter/dp/B00JVUXMRI/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1469560306&sr=8-19&keywords=sata+ide)
[2tb $89]
(https://www.amazon.ca/WD2003FYPS-Western-Digital-7200RPM-SATA/dp/B00MG2BBVM/ref=sr_1_61?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1469560713&sr=1-61&keywords=2tb+hard+drive)
[cable12.76]
(https://www.amazon.ca/Wire-Drive-3-Connector-Ribbon-Cable/dp/B0177AFC0I/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1469560767&sr=1-6&keywords=80+pin+ide)
$105.91 CAD im sure you can do better in price but thats a real quick what you need list.
I had parts laying around so I decided to build a temperature monitor instead of having multiple individual thermometers. My buddy wanted one and i thought, "these have to be a thing", but i cant find them. It seems like the only product that has multiple temperature probes is an expensive controller.
Does anyone know if these things exist on the market?
For those interested, this is just a led segment display, arduino, and i2c temperature probes. You could build this for $20 - $30. I have the code but would encourage someone to try it on their own, its a pretty good beginner project.
Yes, of course! I have a waterproof temperature sensor that I'd love to be able to connect to USB somehow so I could plug and unplug.
You could find a USB temperature sensor. Here is just the first one I found in a search: http://www.amazon.com/Soondar%C2%AE-Powered-Thermometer-Temperature-Sensor/dp/B0054U4YKI
Seems like a lot of them support writing to a text file which you could read from a C# application.
If you're after quick and cheap, then you could do worse than the Ds18b20 sensors in the waterproof housing ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00CHEZ250/) - they use the 1-wire protocol so are easy to get working with the devices you're looking at using.
If you want something a bit more substantial and industrial, DM me and I'll contact some of our suppliers to get some options for you.
How much trouble are you having with evaporation water loss when the cover's off?
I use an auto heater. It has two larger heating coils and a set of temperatures gages. If the temperature spikes, a chiller kicks in, and if it drops, the heaters turn on. You never run the risk of cooking your fish, but you have way more heat available than you need. I have the heaters set up near where the water re-enters the tank, so the warm water cycles constantly.
YINGTU Temperature Controller, Pre-Wired Outlet Thermostat Digital, Dual Stage Hea... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RRXJNLP/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_APkiDbF5MA2ZE
This one is similar to the one I use. You can set the acceptable temperature range and differential, Determine when you want the heater/chiller to turn on, etc.
One plug is dedicated to the heater(s) and one is dedicated to the chiller. You can use it with an existing heater, or add an extension chord and plug in multiples like I do. You don't need the chiller at all if you never have trouble with your tank temperatures exceeding desirable ranges.
As a bonus, you can set an alarm to go off if your temps get out of range.
I think good temperature and humidity controller is also important. It can maintain the value what you need.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I6BZ2IO
Mostly Wemos D1 Mini and whatever USB supply I have at hand (have had good luck with Motorola dual-ports). I like the idea of the Feathers, but haven't run into an application yet for myself where I want to put up with periodically recharging the device.
For indoor temp/humidity sensors, Amazon seller HiLetgo (and probably others) sell a D1 Mini shield with a DHT22 prewired to D4. Between those parts and ESPEasy, it takes about 15-20 minutes to put a new sensor together.
For outdoor and remote temp, I grabbed a 5-pack of ds18b20 probes from Amazon. Each probe has a unique ID in rom which ESPEasy honors, so multiple sensors can be wired in parallel (on the same bus) and still be read separately. For ease of wiring, D3 supplies the power, D4 is the data (pulled up by the LED), and GND on the Mini is right next to D4.
All publish to Mosquitto, of which Home Assistant is a subscriber.
Hey Folks,
I was asked to provide a more detailed view on what I have done with the zirc wire.
I'm happy to provide a better view on my measuring technique.
If you can give feedback to the method or TC measuring in general, please let me know.
I first tried to measure the temp with a old and small IR thermometer i got laying around.
The values were totally confusing, so I asked what could cause this error.
Some kind user told me that IR does depend on the emissivity of different materials.
This made sense, as I got really different values for the same setup.
So I bought a real Thermometer with 4 channels and probes you could insert into coils, etc.
This helped a lot in getting "real" values for the temp which was reached on different TCR settings.
The zirc wire measurings were done with different places for the probe.
I inserted it into the coil, but noticed that the direct measurement of the coil (under the rips) was more accurate.
The placing inside the cotton "stole" some temp from the measurement, so I chose to go with the setup shown in the zirc thread.
I think this should work for most mods and wires with TC.
I would suggest to buy a thermometer with probes, as they are way more accurate than anything else I tried.
BUT the probes are slow sometimes, so you have to fire a minimum of 8sec, or fire a second time when the probe has "reached temperature".
I will have a look at "faster" probes, but now I dont have the money to buy a good set of probes to test them all.
The measuring was absolutely possible with the "slower" probes provided with the thermometer i bought.
As I dont own many mods, just a istick pico, a VTC Mini and an egrip2 with the adaptor for 510, I didnt have the need to test any further.
I have ordered some SS316 in 29 Gauge (0,28mm) from zivpf and will continue the tests with this wire.
As the TCR for SS316 is more public, I thought it would be a good idea to test something which is commonly known.
So, I will get back and post if I come to new conclusions about TC with SS316 on this 3 mods.
I also own 3 different atomizers (serpent mini22, subtank mini and lemo2), so I will do this tests with all 3 atomizers.
The best choice in my opinion is a atomizer which doesnt "hop" massively on the cold resistance in Arctic Fox.
The subtank gave the most stable "cold resistance" in the past, so I will begin with this.
Until then, I wish everybody a happy, good vape and a great time.
Cheers
Yes, I will post a link. Red breadboards are just for convenience. One has 16 resistors. You need 1 resistor for each relay because relays are 3.3v and board is 5v. 1K to 3K seem to do the job. And the other board only has 3 connectors for DS18b20 Waterproof Temperature Sensors along with 10K pull down resistor.
Nothing yet. I've been toying with the idea of doing a quick DIY on RX8Club.
I've got a pair of modified banjo bolts tapped with 1/8 NPT fittings in them. I have a K-type thermocouple intended for EGT measurement installed in the bolt on the front cover and a 150 psi pressure transducer in the return line. A second 150 psi transducer is installed in an Aeromotive fuel line adapter. A MAX6675 thermocouple analog-to-digital adapter lets the Arduino Uno measure the temps. A 20x4 LCD displays the values numerically.
I taught myself how to code the Arduino and make everything work in about 6 hours on a Saturday. The hardest part was trying to figure out the LCD and MAX6675 connections. I can upload the libraries and sketches somewhere if you want to copy my work.
Edit: look at that, it was already on my google drive... https://drive.google.com/open?id=19xV31SIuhSC76IQSWpr959vSRQg1Xekv
​
Edit2: Wow, looking at my code... I even documented things like what each line does and where to connect wires. I don't remember doing it but if drunk me wants to be a good programmer, I'm okay with that.
I have a couple of esp8266 sensors. They are currently indoor, but your concerns about the enclosure wouldn't be a problem for them.
This is the probe I'm using on them. It's the same probe everyone else uses, but its for outdoor use. The cable and housing its in are heavy duty and weatherproof. Basically drill a hole in your enclosure, put the cable through it and seal it with epoxy.
As for power, mine being indoor I just powered them off a USB cable and moved onto the next thing, but I have seen a few designs for them that use batteries. What really kills batteries is using the wifi. If you put the wifi in low power mode, or power it down entirely, when not in use, it extends the life considerably. If you need constant, up to date readings this might not work, but if you just need to poll it periodically, this should work fine. If you needed every little temperature change, but didn't need it immediately, you could also have it continuously poll the temp, but only wake up the wifi once an hour or when the temprature changed more than x degrees from the last send, or something like that.
I use these
http://www.amazon.com/Probe-Thermocouple-Sensor-Temperature-Controller/dp/B00899A4LY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1407186807&sr=8-3&keywords=k+type+thermocouple
Haven't had any real problems with the, I have them hooked up to an Arduino with RoastLogger.
OK, that sounds like adding the DS18B20 temperature probe to the Fibaro Door/Window Sensor is fairly straight-forward.
Feel free to correct me if I found the wrong parts, but many of the reviews seem to be doing the same thing you're suggesting, for monitoring freezers, etc.
I'm not sure what you could do to waterproof your existing sensors if you have no room for shrink wrap. For what it's worth, with my setup I used these ds18b20 sensors from amazon: https://amzn.com/B00EU70ZL8
They fit fine without any modification inside my 16", .305" ID thermowell that I got from here: https://www.brewershardware.com/16-Stainless-Steel-Thermowell.html
The amazon listing has the diameter of those sensors at .6 cm (.24")
There's the same cable here just longer: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wire-Drive-3-Connector-Ribbon-Cable/dp/B0177AFC0I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473013576&sr=8-2&keywords=80+pin+ide
Thanks for the help, I love my old Xbox but the hard drive is getting a bit slow nowadays and mod chips are like gold dust. This should help give it a new lease of life. Would any SATA hard drive work? I was thinking of using a Western Digital Black 2TB like the one I have in my PC.
https://www.amazon.com/Yosoo-5V-12V-Voltage-Induction-Heating/dp/B01C71XKZ6
​
That's the one I'm using. Along with this MAX6675 thermocouple module to measure temperature:
​
https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-MAX6675-Thermocouple-Temperature-Arduino/dp/B01HT871SO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539837568&sr=8-2&keywords=thermocouple+arduino
I will find the script in a bit but basically you take a DS18B20 temperature sensor and hook it up to the GPIO pins. In some part of whatever Raspberry Pi distribution config utility you're using, will be an option to enable I2C connectivity.
Basically you run the cat command to get the temperature of the sensor, have a script to write that to a file with a timestamp, and make a cron job to run that every minute. You can then have another script to alert you if the temperature gets above a certain level. Some temperature logging tutorials want some sort of SQL but you can do this without it.
edit: here's the pastebin with the two scripts. The cronjob entry looks like this:
> * /root/thermcron.sh
I see. Look at the design of the encapsulated DS18B20 and compare it to the raw sensor. Notice what they've done to 'waterproof' it.
It's soldered to wires, encapsulated in a metal (thermally conductive) shell, and sealed with a sealant/epoxy and heat-shrink tubing.
http://www.bigappleherp.com/Flex-Watt-Heat-Tape
Here is even cheaper. The video on kombucha kamp she is pretty much blowing smoke "i worked with an engineer". I'm sure she did talk to someone, but that's just standard heat tape that's very common in multiple industries, brewers, gardeners and reptile owners use them, she's just repackaged them for kombucha.
You can even get a thermostat for them instead of a dimmer and it will control the heat at the temp you want.
http://www.amazon.com/Grow-Pro-Thermostat-Germination-Temperature/dp/B0134W0MDK/ref=sr_1_sc_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1449697228&sr=8-3-spell&keywords=thermostat+heat+pag
I use this for my reptiles, you can get a whole setup with thermostat for cheaper then the kombuchakamp version, heat tape is dirt cheap.
https://www.amazon.com/K-Type-Thermocouple-PK-1000-Temperature-Insulation/dp/B0083SZC6S
That one goes to 1000c, 1832f.
They exist. How they engineer them must be interesting.
I would say about $25-$30 with parts and everything. Once you have the code for one, putting it on others would be quick and simple. It would be a good option for future projects as well since you could just add other things to the board.
Screen
Temp sensor
Based off Inkbird ITC-106RL
Parts:
Controller: Inkbird ITC-106RL
This is 12v so it is easy to use with cheap computer fans and has a built in relay to make for less wiring. Can also be ran off of a battery. Downside of the built in relay is the life span is a little lower, but it is cheap enough and easy enough to replace that I will take the trade off.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MS138DM
Power Supply: 12v. Can be a “wall wort” converter or hooked up to any 12v battery. I used an old power adaptor from an external power supply. Just make sure it is 12v output with at least 1 amp.
https://smile.amazon.com/Adapter-100-240V-Transformers-Switching-Adaptor/dp/B019Q3U72M/
Fan: At least 5 CFM needs to get to the drum, but keep in mind a lot will be lost going down a valve/pipe/elbow. With this controller it will run the fan as need to maintain the temp, so larger will be fine, but too large can cause problems. I did 80mm computer case fan (with LEDs) with a 3” to 1.5” ABS adaptor hacked up get it funneled into my box. I did this because I wanted the look of a big LED fan and a 80mm LED fan was cheap. I think a lot of the 32 CFM of the fan I used is being wasted with my setup with the funnel and riser pipe, and I am OK with that as I love the look. My 32 CFM fan is running about 30% of the time to maintain temp. I want to be able to glance from the house and see it light up. If you are just going for ease of build I would do 2 40mm fans screwed into the cover of the box. Then you don’t need to make the funnel/adaptor which was hard to make.
Mine: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S396YU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Easier:https://smile.amazon.com/2packs-0-15A-Brushless-Cooling-AB4010M12/dp/B01CZFUOD0
Temp Sensor: Any “K Type” sensor will do. The controller supports a ton of different types, but a K type is the easiest. I picked this one for the length of the sensor and the spring wire guard for having it on the side of the drum.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00899A4LY/
This one looks great if you want to be able to remove it quickly.
K Type Adjustable Compression Spring Bayonet Sensor Thermocouple 5M https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018HX0DLM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ls-VzbD60N3WS
I plan on adding a clip using it on the grate as the sidewall is running about 50 degrees hotter than the air around the meat on the top grate. I think I wouldn't make this one my first choice if you going to have it on the grate because of the spring guard and size.
https://smile.amazon.com/BBQ-Butler-Meat-Thermometer-Probe/dp/B01AS23FHE/
Case: 2" Type LB PVC Conduit Body with a pvc plumbing reducer on the bottom to get down to 3/4” pipe thread that connects to my valve (kept so I can shut it down after cooking) and a solid plug on the back drilled out to allow for a wire connector. I didn't glue either of the plugs in so I could take it off the smoker easily and for future upgrades. The holes in the face of the case were cut with a hole saw and jigsaw.
https://www.menards.com/main/electrical/conduit-conduit-fittings-raceways/pvc-conduit-fittings/carlon-reg-2-type-lb-conduit-body/p-1444444974150-c-6424.htm
https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/rough-plumbing/pipe-tubing-hoses-fittings-accessories/fittings/pvc-fittings/nibco-reg-2-plug-pvc-schedule-40/p-1444449168970-c-8557.htm
https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/rough-plumbing/pipe-tubing-hoses-fittings-accessories/fittings/pvc-fittings/nibco-reg-2x3-4-spigot-x-female-pipe-thread-reducer-bushing-pvc-schedule-40/p-1444449164005-c-8557.htm
https://www.menards.com/main/electrical/conduit-conduit-fittings-raceways/metal-conduit-fittings/sigma-3-4-nm-connector-3-bag/p-1444430908358-c-9538.htm
Wiring: Image from facebook.com/boganbbq
The ITC-106RL has the same wiring.

I didn’t add the switches as I am just plugging it in or unplugging it. I think I will add a switch for the fan in the future. https://smile.amazon.com/AutoEC-Rocker-Toggle-Switch-Control/dp/B012IJ35VQ/
I had to flip my probe wiring.
You may need to use a multimeter to figure out which wire is hot vs common coming from the power adaptor. Set your meter to 12v and touch the probes to the wires from the adaptor. If you get POSITIVE number close to twelve your positive/red probe is on the positive/”red” wire. If you get a NEGATIVE number on the multimeter you have them switched. I tested the adaptor on the fan first. My fan would not spin/light up with the wires switched.
My final wiring (not in the case):

Controller Settings:
The manual for the ITC-106 is bad. Luckily the IPC-16 is the same system and the manual is much better.
See: http://pmod79883.pic31.websiteonline.cn/upload/IPB-16UserManualA42.pdf
Press SET button for 3 seconds to enter into the main menu, there are Input Parameters, Output Parameters, Alarm Parameters, PID Parameters and Unit Parameters can be selected. Then press shift button to enter into the submenu if need to change the settings.
Here is what I changed to get it working. Everything else is left on the factory settings.
IP -> SC (Sensor Calibration) AS NEEDED. Once you have it running turn it on and put the sensor in the some boiling water. Use this setting to adjust as needed, keeping in mind water boils at different temps depending your elevation. I had to do a + 3.
PID -> CTL (Control Period) to 15 seconds. Basically, the system will check the temp every 15 seconds and then run the fan for the amount it guesses it will need to keep the temp correct. Lower time is more accurate temp, but on/off cycles for the relay, and it is only rated for 100,000 cycles. I think I will test this at 30 seconds and 60 seconds in the future. 15 worked well and had about a 1-2 degree swing. I am ok with more of swing if it means less wear and tear on the built in relay.
UNITS TO F if think in those terms.
In the future I will play with the autotune/self-tuning function and will add an update for that if I can figure it out and get noticeably better results.
You are done. Light your smoker, power up the controller and set your temp (you can hold the up and down buttons or use the select button and move the decimal point to change by 100s, 10s or 1s). Bottom number is your set point, top is the current temp.
I leave my 2nd valve open till 200 degrees to help the drum get to temp faster, then I closed it and let the controller do the rest, but you can start with just the fan open and walk away if you want. Exhaust open all the way. It ended up running the fan about 5 seconds on, 10 seconds off to maintain 225 degrees.
Hey man, I know what it's like to make videos and get knocked on. I'm actually an 11 year manufacturing engineer who's poured molten metal on an industrial level, hundreds of thousands of pounds worth. I've Programmed and ran CNC machines, cut metals, drill welding, worked with water tools, abrasive tools, etc.
I've been trained by my grandfather who's been pouring metal since the 50's and my father who's been doing it since the 70's. Along with another half dozen men who all have a minimum of 20 years experience in industrial manufacturing. I'm going to give you some practical advice on how you could drastically improve your safety.
 
If you are still using that furnace, please throw it out and remake it so my grandfather can stop rolling in his grave. Use one of these materials;
Fine Kiln dried lapis sand
Silica Sand 6lbs
2200deg Rutland castable cement Fire Clay
25lbs Rutland castable cement
Kaowool Insulation Blanket
Your best bet is to use silica sand but it's typically more expensive, however it will last the longest. The refractory is really where the durability is. I'd experiment with different types, you could even try adding in fiberglass reinforcement which may increase durability. Oh and here is a K-type thermometer. You can buy some thermocouple leads and figure out the math to accurately measure your burn temperatures so you don't over oxides your metals.
And honestly, if it was me, I'd remove that video and remake it. Someone will watch that video, go out and buy cement and one day it will explode on them. That's an extremely dangerous way to make a furnace.
 
The way you set up that cuttoff wheel.... smh. Please don't do that. Also I'm sure you already read the comments but there are times when to wear gloves and when not to wear gloves. You need to use a vice or clamp any time you can if it means avoiding using gloves when using a high-speed cutter of any kind. Especially if it's a wheel. Again, it only takes once.
 
 
Overall man I like your videos but in my opinion of everyone DIY'er i watch on youtube, you are hands down the lease safe. I usually spot something you did wrong in every video you post. Whether you feel responsible for your viewers and what they do with the information you give them, is up to you. I just figured I'd give you some pragmatic advice from someone who does this stuff for a living. I actually did a few youtube videos about 6 years ago on my Channel over industrial level green sand. I'm planning on quitting my job within the next mont or two to start my own workshop/foundry/DIY/Youtube/website marketing thing from scratch. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll gladly answer them.
Here's some random tips;
Don't use pop can metal for anything structural. It's 3000's series aluminum and it's mades specifically to be malleable. Good rule of thumb for scrap metal is, if it came from something cheap, the metals cheap. The highest quality aluminum you can get for CASTING is automotive parts. Typically made from A356-T6, very good aluminum. I see a lot of guys metal down "Aircraft" or "Aerospace grade" aluminum for casting thinking it's going to be strong. It will not be, 6000 or 7000 series aluminum is all wrought/worked aluminum. It gets it's strength from massive presses that squeeze the metal into shape. Once you heat it up it looses all that strength.
T6 heat treat is the most common treat process for aluminum. If you are making something structural, heat treatment will greatly increase it's strength. But you have to use the correct aluminum for or it can't be treated (Automotive parts/A356). The process is usually 8hrs at 800-1000F then either a quench/2hrs at 300F or age hardening. With that K type thermometer you can easily set up your furnace to heat treat. Also, most aluminum age hardens once poured, usually around 21 days.
Please never wear shorts ever again when working with molten metal. It's not that it will burn your leg. It's that it will hit your leg, then fall into you shoe. Then you have a burning foot and a ladle of molten metal in your hand. I've done this with high top boots and jeans on. My father would fire my on the spot if he ever saw me pouring with shorts on. I saw a guy poure about 2lbs of aluminum into his boot once. 6 years later his still on disability. Please don't ever do it again.
Random informational videos
Metallugical nature of Aluminum and crystalizing structures
Grain Structure of Metal
Cold work vs Hot work metal. E.I. this is wrought metal like 3000, 6000 & 7000 series aluminum
Cermaic Material for Furnace Insulation
MAX6675 + K-Type
Why didn't you just go with a pre-made and cheap option? Waterproof DS18B20's are all over the place. I use these for the monitor on my reeftanks which would arguably be a much more harsh environment than a greenhouse.
DS18b20 Waterproof
So I would need this
Sonoff TH16 Wifi Temperature and Humidity Sensor Switch+AM2301 RF Controller for DIY Smart Home,Wireless Remote Control Home Appliances and Work with Amazon Alexa, 1 Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FSHKQ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uZaZBbF8TQQ5Q
And the probe:
Diymore 5Pcs DS18B20 Waterproof Temperature Sensors Thermistor Temperature Controller Length 1M Thermometer with Probe (1M) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JKVRVNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VZaZBbN6WY76M
I use [this guy] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0001WV010/ref=sr_ph_1?qid=1462405231&sr=sr-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=seedling+heat+mat) and [this thermometer] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0134W0MDK/ref=sr_ph_2?qid=1462405231&sr=sr-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=seedling+heat+mat)
Opinions on this thermocouple and matching pid?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00843IKWK/ref=pd_aw_sim_60_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=41z8BY2mhvL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C100_&refRID=B7T8HP79JBGN34KF85TR
I feel like measuring temperature is a big deal.
Would this work (2 Thermocouples and a microcontroler):
http://www.amazon.com/K-Type-Thermocouple-PK-1000-Temperature-Insulation/dp/B0083SZC6S
http://www.adafruit.com/products/270
https://www.adafruit.com/products/269
Yes it's called a thermocouple. I used one on my meat smoker.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00843IKWK/ref=pd_aw_sim_328_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1618N45Y447RQH3YWE4Z&dpPl=1&dpID=61BQu%2BqepOL
Get one of these to hook it up to your arduino.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0100A7SS6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1