Best terrarium, bedding, sand & substrate according to redditors

We were told to use Eco-Earth or other pet friendly soils. I hoping that was good information because, fun fact: rats like to eat dirt lol

Don't get a sponge. It's a breeding ground for bacteria, and the tarantula can't actually get water from it. They do fine with standing water, I see mine (I'm up to 25 now) drink from their dishes frequently.

Also, the B. albopilosum doesn't need a premade lair. In my experience, they're pretty good at digging out their own

I actually posted this info yesterday, so I'm just going to paste the relevant section right here:

Let's talk equipment:
Get the tarantula keeper's guide and read through it, before you get your spider preferably. It's going to be your bible for the first few months.
Tarantulas don't really have a lot of care requirements, and their equipment list is pretty short. An appropirately sized kritter keeper is usually fine. Not the best, but fine. You'll want a small bowl for standing water so it can keep itself hydrated if it needs to. You'll want some finely shredded coco fiber as a substrate. Finally, you'll defenitely need some 12 inch tongs for feeding.

Feel free to ask any more questions, glad to have you in the hobby!

Stay away from the desert sand. Soil-type substrate is best for the whole enclosure. Most people use cocofiber.

30x30x30 is a bit big, but if you go with something that size, just be sure to fill it with substrate enough to reduce the height considerably (over half). You don't want a terrestrial tarantula falling more than a few inches.

A lot of people use decorative items for hides, so the skull is probably fine unless it has sharp bits.

Changing the hide and the sound from your stereo are probably minimal stressors. It likely won't impact the lifespan of the spider, but if it gets bald quickly after moving in, it may be time to move the spider (or the stereo). At 3-4 inches, this spider will probably only molt once a year, so it won't outgrow an appropriately sized hide quickly.

At 3-4 inches you should be able to tell the sex of the spider. If the shop doesn't have sex labeled, you should ask about it and/or take some photos of the underside of the spider if possible. We may be able to sex it for you from a photo (although the most reliable way is with a shed exoskeleton).

Definitely pick up The Tarantula Keeper's Guide if you haven't already. It's a solid resource and one you will turn to time and time again.

Edit: added link

Picture of the setup

Im using a 20 gallon long glass tank with this surrounding the sides and back, its a perfect fit. A day night timer hooked to a non heated light. I dont use heating that sucks the humidity out of the air by using a heat pad for both hides regulated by thermostats one for each pad. Substrate I use is coconut husk, this one lasted me a whole year and people say it wont mold as easily compared to other non coconut fiber substrates. The tank itself uses a screened sliding locked lid. I cant speak for how to lock down other types of lids for tanks. The screen however I covered most of it with 3 layers of foil followed by tape around the edges of the foil to keep it attached and sealed better to the screen. A hole for the non heated light was made and I used a cut up piece of a zipblock bag along with tape to cover over the hole for humidity reasons. Finally the hides are medium sized from reptile basics, I remember when he could easily fit in the small one, was such a tiny noodle and of course a simple plastic water dish big enough to soak in and aid in humidity.

For times when he is in shed though, I lightly spray down the substrate and sides and back of the tank once a day. I think just spraying the glass walls and keeping that large surface area wet is good enough though.

Other items include thermometer, fake plants, gram scale, and one ball python

First off. Every 2-4 days is crazy. 1 approximately sized meal weekly is all he needs. If he refuses wait a week and try again. The constant food in his face is a source of great stress and will put any BP off food. Secondly. The pet store not having coconut bedding is no excuse. The habitat temps amd humidity should be established before introducing a new animal. I never run out of appropriate bedding. Always keep extra everything stocked! Amazon always has reptichip available
https://www.amazon.com/ReptiChip-Premium-Coconut-Substrate-Amphibians/dp/B0157O1CM8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=reptichip+premium+coconut+substrate&qid=1574989807&sprefix=reptichip&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyVEpCMUZHMDkwNzVZJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTY5MDkwMU1YM0czUFZBSjVPTyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDk3MzA4MjAwMk1PUkxXSThVQSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

Go with the PVC set up. As some one who has used glass set ups and tried to find ways to alter them to make them better for BPs: don't bother. It costs more to make the set up 'right' and then to maintain it, because you will have to maintain it constantly. When I began, I thought I could engineer my way through and turned the tank on it's side, built a door, all kinds of things...and yeah, it worked, made a beautiful glass enclosure and I could see my snake, but it was never consistent enough to not have to check daily, like a PVC should be.

Stay away from glass. It's just not worth it.

Good choices on the reptile basics stuff.

This is the thermometer I use: Acu-Rite Indoor/Outdoor - it also keeps track of humidity.

Stay away from the Zoomed coconut husk stuff and go for ReptiChip - it's less dusty and slightly bigger chunks so it's safer for your BP. Plus that package is big and perfect for several full substrate change outs.

The water dish is not big enough - it's only 3 inches wide. Definitely won't help with humidity, unless you get 2-3 of them and put them around the set up. Get a ceramic dog bowl like this instead. It's big, won't run out quickly, and will let your BP soak if it wants to.

Use the reptibasic hides. They're sturdy and easy to clean. 'Decorative' hides are usually a pain to clean.

I've tried the decorative vine and it's no good; when your BP poops on it, the poop stays stuck and unless you're going to pull it out and sanitize it every time (the leaves are fiber, not plastic), it's just a pain to have.

Lastly, don't even bother with mice for your BP. Just start straight from rats. The sooner your BP is on rats, the easier life will be.

You shouldn't feel bad - you definitely saved him from a terrible fate on the streets! An albino mouse that is OK with you handling him is almost certainly domestic. Likely someone didn't want to care for him anymore and just set him loose. It's very sad because they will either die of exposure (they won't know how to find good shelter), or most likely a cat, hawk, or any other predator will eat him.

I would monitor him and see if he appears healthy. Domestic mice generally don't carry the same diseases as wild mice, and if he was friendly and looks to be in good condition (clear open eyes, smooth fur, no wet spot under tail, etc.), then maybe he was only released (or escaped) earlier that day. I found a domestic hamster once in our neighborhood, so it does happen!

It is always good to have a vet check on him if you can. If the vet confirms it's a boy, then he will need to live alone. Male mice fight.

He will enjoy a wheel like a Silent Spinner or Flying Saucer, a water bottle (not a dish, which gets dirty), and toys like paper towel tubes, small cardboard boxes, a large stick to climb on, etc. He will need a place to sleep that is something like an overturned cardboard box with a hole cut out, or you can buy one. I recommend a lab block like Oxbow young rat and mouse, and supplement with some bird seed occasionally (no dried corn). For cages, a tank like a 20-gallon tank with a mesh lid is the best. For bedding I would recommend either EcoEarth (it helps combat the smell), or Vitakraft paper crumbles, with something like Klean and Kozy for burrowing. Males do have a musk so he will be a little stinky, and need his cage cleaned once a week.

Share a pic if you can, and update us. I hope you keep him and enjoy him!

ZooMed coconut fiber substrate
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00167VVP4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_U9P4CbFK61SSA

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Compressed-Coconut-Substrate/dp/B00TNLIANQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=zoo%2Bmed%2Bcoir&qid=1564784394&s=gateway&sr=8-2&th=1&psc=1

Coir is sold at every pet store

>Is it really so easy as buying a small enclosure, something to burrow into, and some crickets every once in a while?

Absolutely! I have 4 Ts. I make sure they have fresh water at all times and I feed them weekly. You just have to make sure that your enclosure suits the spider that you have. There are two types of set ups: arboreal and terrestrial (trees and ground). An arboreal spider will need about an inch or two of substrate and then a good amount of vertical space with some stuff to climb on. A terrestrial spider will need a set up that is opposite of that. As much ground space as possible with a substrate of at least 3 or 4 inches, and not that much vertical space(if they climb too high and fall, they could rupture the abdomen). For a substrate, always go with something like Eco Earth as it is not only inexpensive, but arguably the most suitable substrate on the market. Make sure the spider has something to hide under, or in. I just go outside and find sticks and bark and such and microwave it to kill off any bacteria. You do not need to pay for fancy hiding logs at the pet store! As for water, a small shallow dish will be suitable. Make sure that fresh water is always available for the T. DO NOT use a sponge in the water! I see many pet stores even making this mistake. It is not necessary, and will be a breeding ground for bacteria and molds.

>When purchasing spiders should I follow the same rules as say, buying a puppy? As in, don't buy from a "mill"?

You'll be fine just buying them online from a reputable source. You'll know exactly what you are getting, and it will be cheaper. The only issue is that shipping can be costly. I've heard a lot of good things about Jamie's Tarantulas and I know she has a $15 flat shipping fee. Mind you, you can only buy from her in the continental US.

>I read "docile nature" but does that mean that a spider could recognize me, or enjoy being socialized with? Or are they just lovely creatures to admire?

Absolutely not! By docile, it means that they are generally well tempered and will tolerate being handled. You should not handle your T often, and many species should just simply not be handled at all! They will certainly not socialize with you or recognize you. Tarantula behavior is all stimulus and response, nothing more. They are fascinating to view, but like I said even with "docile" species, keep handling to a minimum.

As for feeding, crickets. One cricket, once a week is how I do it.

Well, that should give you a pretty good general idea of tarantula care. Of course, you will have to read up on your species, and you should research about molting as well. Please feel free to ask me anything else you would like to know, and I will do my best to give you a sufficient answer.

Good luck on your first T!

I’m just gonna go off, this will be long as hell. It’s currently really early in the morning so sorry for any formatting/spelling.

• a terrarium. I currently have a 10 gallon since my frog is still small but I’ll probably go up to 20-30 gallon which isn’t necessarily obligatory as they don’t move that much. I wouldn’t personally wouldn’t recommend going under 10.
  
  
• a mesh lid. This doesn’t regularly come with the terrarium and you’ll have to buy one that fits appropriately with the size of your tank.
  
  
• Day and night light stand. an example, this is what I have.
  
  
• UV day bulb, and a night bulb. Make sure to flip the lights over whenever you wake up and whenever you go to bed so he gets a cycle of day and night. find example here, not a huge fan of these ones but you might like it
  
  
• a thermostat and hydrometer. I have one that sticks to the inside wall of my tank. I found that putting it closer to the bottom will give you a more accurate reading of the temperature and humidity. I keep my frog’s temp at a steady 80° Fahrenheit and about 65 - 80% humidity. an example of thermostat plus hydrometer
  
  
  
• substate. Make sure it’s wet but not soppy and give it a good spray at least twice a day. an example
  
  
• shading/ a place to hide. You can plant safe plants in their terrariums but I prefer just to add some fake plants.
  
  
• a water dish that he can get in and out of. If he goes in it by himself then the substrate isn’t wet enough. They absorb water through their skin and need to basically constantly be damp.
  
  
• for food I personally feed crickets, mealworms, and wax worms. I again personally use tweezers to pick the bug up and put them in front of mine so it doesn’t run away from me and get lost. I’ll occasionally dip the bugs in calcium powder as well. Be careful with waxworms, pinky mice, and other fatty foods as the frog could get overweight.
  BE WARNED: crickets stink af and even in their little bug home you can smell it from afar. Not to mention their food stinks and they die easy. Buy the smaller ones if you can, I’ve noticed they smell a lot better and don’t die as quickly.
  
  
• don’t move or hold the little dude to much as it stresses them out.
  
  
• if you’re gonna let bugs roam in the terrarium clean it out once every week. I personally clean mine about every 3 weeks but I don’t keep bugs in there.
  
  I hope this helps! If I think of anything else I’ll add it here. Also if you have any questions don’t be afraid to ask.

Sweet! The most natural way to start up is by using botanicals, such as wood, bark, leaves, and seed pods. The website linked above is my personal favourite place to get most of those, aside from my own personal local fish store. You can let them float at the top of your aquarium until they sink, or boil them for a short time to quicken the process, but either way, as they sink and decompose, they release tannins into the water, creating that gorgeous tea stain. I also prefer to use bottled tannin extract to add to new water during water changes, but that is entirely optional. The botanicals release enough tannins to make up for it eventually, I just like having it around.

Another thing to check is the humid hide. A terra cotta pot broken in half lengthwise works very well. Get some sphagnum moss for bedding inside and keep it moist. Spray your tortoise with water as often as you can, and spray its food too. Always keep water available. A terra cotta saucer is perfect. For your tortoise size I’d get a 6” or 8” dish. Also try to keep the substrate damp. The latest and learned method of raising sulcatas is to keep them damp their first year.

Mazuri pellets

Cuttlebone

Sphagnum Moss

Oh then check out this channel for direct Leopard Gecko care, and this channel for gold nuggets of care tips. I recommend going with reptile carpet or eco earth. Good luck!

A high quality chinchilla sand is totally fine in my experience! Just don't take a super cheap one with bad reviews and it shouldn't be a problem.

Edit: This one seems to be recommend by a lot of hamster owners in North America!
Basically no dust they say

I didn’t feel the need to bake it, if felt very clean. It is a big bag, but I personally have the storage space. You can use repti sand from your local pet smart or petco as long as there is no calcium in it. Zoo Med ReptiSand, 10 Pounds, Desert White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DIZKC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9IWIDbZKCQMK3

But it’s quadruple the price, for one fifth of what you get with the other bag. But it’s a great temporary option.

You can but any general reptile/pet store should carry some. Amazon typically has better deals though. Most go with the Zoo Med Eco Earth Bricks https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TNLIANQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3PNUN7H1KV96E&psc=1

One of those bricks should be enough to cover the bottom of your terrarium and with changing every 1-2 months $30 of substrate will last you a while

Hello everyone,

Earlier this week I got my first snake, which was a female western hognose. Unfortunately, the previous owners seem to have provided lackluster care (here was the tank, bedding etc she came in).

I have since purchased a 40 gallon tank, got new bedding, purchased 2 hides, added a larger heating pad, light lamp, and have a thermometer I'll be installing on the heat lamp...

...but 24 hours after transferring the snake to her new tank, she hadn't shown herself at all.

At first she explored her new, larger surroundings. But then she buried and I didn't see her. Worried, I just found her on the cooler non-lit/non-heated side still not moving much (and generally not happy with my bothering her).

Concerns:

Here is a picture of the new setup. I used this ReptiChip substrate (coconut husk), which I'm a bit anxious about because it specifically mentions pythons and boas, not a hognose. I followed their instructions using water to expand the chips and add some moisture, but the moisture is collecting in the tank (picture at the base here).

When I tried to find her in the substrate, I noticed a small flying insect similar to a gnat. Not sure if this is relevant or this is just something I should watch out for.

1. Is the moisture collecting at the base of the tank a problem?
   
   
2. Is it normal for a hognose to spend time buried and feeling "anti-social" when first moved to a new environment?
   
   
3. Is this substrate okay? I only read after purchasing the ReptiChip that hognose may prefer shredded aspen.
   
   
4. What's the temperature for the heading pad and lighting area (I see this called a "basking area")? In the link above I see 90 degrees F
   
   
5. I got this thermometer. Is there anything else (humidity checker) that I need to purchase?
   
   Many thanks for all y'alls help. I apologize for my ignorance. In posting this (and quickly purchasing more/better products), I am doing my best to care for the animal.

For what it's worth, as someone who has received a tarantula as a gift before (hilariously enough, it was a g. pulchra): think about the enclosure too. Pick up a small exoterra breeder box, a bit of coco earth, and a small fake plant or hide (I love getting fake plants at the dollar store to doll up my spider's bins).

For a 75gallon get one of these (Eco Earth):
http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Compressed-Coconut-Substrate/dp/B0010OSIHW
The two bricks should be enough and mix in with the sand real good. It'll help keep the humidity up and it's more like their natural environment. Make sure sand is sand-castle consistency. Not too dray or they won't be able to dig tunnels and not too wet that water pools end up on the bottom.

Read the stickied posts on top of the "topics" area and ask questions if you need more info here:
http://www.hermitcrabassociation.com/phpBB/viewforum.php?f=26

Also - check out the shells from this seller on Etsy. I noticed the spiky one you have in the corner. They like "Turbo" shells much better. You'll be amazed how fast they switch in these shells (links below) and never use the one like you have showing again - see links below. Depending on the size of your crabs you'll need to figure out which ones you need.

A little smaller:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/163508909/multipack-2-25-tapestry-turbo-shell?ref=shop_home_active_2

A little larger:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/163509545/multipack-15-2-tapestry-turbo-shell?ref=shop_home_active_12

I'd go with the larger ones probably as they'll wear them if they're too big and will always grow into them fairly quickly anyways.

Good luck!

If it's the Kaytee exotic pet home (the one with the green platforms) I was using fabric for a while too and had the same problem with urine smell.

I started using terrarium liners in the base of the cage and it worked quite well.

I bought two of them and cut them to fit the cage (be sure to check the dimensions of the cage and the liner before you buy). Every three days you can just pull the liner out and swap it with the clean one. Then the dirty one can be rinsed out with cold water to clean it and hung up to dry.

They're treated with enzymes that neutralize urine odor, and it made cleaning much easier. Swapping them out every few days, a pair usually lasts about a month. If you wanted to use them on the platforms as well you could probably buy another one or two to cut to the platforms' sizes and clip them down with binder clips or something.

Also, be sure you put something like torn up strips of kraft paper or something for them to chew/burrow in the base of the cage. If they're used to having old shirts and blankets to burrow around in, the terrarium liners will get chewed on and crawled under.

It's my first grow so I'm not sure if it's the same as pasturization, but I put the bricks in a bucket and poured boiling water in and let it sit for a few hours. And I used this originally https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KV8EUBK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0.7SDbJBRQWE0
but today I bought a 3 pack of this: https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/reptile/reptile-substrate-bedding/zoo-med-eco-earth-compressed-coconut-fiber-expandable-substrate and spawned a tub the same way

If you're looking to order off Amazon, this is a better deal: https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiSand-Pounds-Desert/dp/B0002DIZKC/

It's twice as much, but you get 6+ times as much sand. Reading the reviews on that other sand, it only fills about a sandwich bag - which won't last 2 Robos very long (they loooove to be messy with it).

To truly be economical, go to a hardware store and get a big bag of child's play sand -- a ton for incredibly cheap. You might want to bake and sift it, but it's the cheapest option by far.

OK, Im just going to list a bunch of stuff I've purchased through this process. Nothing is in any particular order.

Almond leaves (for tannin) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LKTX4VC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Moss - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035Q65TQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cholla Wood - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H4FUMHY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dried red Shrimp (Protein and Chitin) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027JCRVW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Instant Ocean (1/3cup per Gallon) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255NKA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ultrasonic Mister/Fogger (for DIY Fogger) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PAK21WU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Digital Temp Humidity Controller - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I6BZ2IO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LED White/Blue Light - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0191EWII2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

UTH (You may need to get a different size and this isn't the most recommended, but it works for me currently) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TR4HLEI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (This one has adhesive on the back of it, so you just stick it on like a sticker.)

Cork Bark Board - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019J1VPY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Water Conditioner - https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116043304-Prime-500ml/dp/B00025694O

If you have any questions, please feel free. To mitigate confusion I felt just listing this as a reference first is the best approach. If you are looking for a new tank so that you can get friends, i would suggest 30 or more gallons and work towards that instead of investing into the current tank which would get changed.

Personally with the 5 i have i clearly see they need much more room than the 15 gallon they have now. I am in the process of acquiring an 85-120 gallon tank for permanency. These guys can live 20+ years with the proper care and environment. but not everyone has that freedom. 30 is a totally doable size for 3 crabs. they can grow to jumbos and be fine in there, but im sure if they reach that stage you'll be looking for another tank. Jumbos need at least 12" of substrate for molting.

Yes, to the Tannin Aquatics! And the pods last longer than leaves. You can also buy CaribSea Instant Blackwater Amazon. It used to be cheaper at Drs Foster and Smith but maybe you can still find it on their partner site or look elsewhere. And Rachel O'Leary on her YouTube channel talks about Roobios (sp?) Tea you can buy at the grocery store...but my store only has it mixed with some other flower or plant so i don't know where to get it just by itself.

I use a 10g and that reptile mat stuff for my Mediterranean Gecko. It's like felt but washable. I cant recommend the mat enough. I've had it 3 years now and after a wash it's as good as new.

Zoo Med Eco Carpet for 40 Gallon Tanks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027IQANE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4L1wCbH7030Z1

For one tiny house gecko 10g is fine, but for a fat tale you'd probably want a 40g breeder.

Edit: after a quick Google 10g might be fine so your 20g setup should be pretty decent

If you're keen on doing some work to save money and have some tools lying around, you could build your own enclosure for much cheaper than premade ones. There's plenty of tutorials and the materials (usually wood or acrylic) are fairly affordable. The long term costs of owning a snake are pretty negligible, it's the initial cost that's going to be pretty high.

Aside from the enclosure, you also need; a heat mat (ex), a thermostat (ex1 ex2), thermometer and hygrometer (ex), substrate (ex1 ex2), 2 hides (ex), water dish (ex), ceramic heat emitter (ex), cleaning supplies (ex), and a mist bottle (ex).

Those are all just examples and some of them might not work for you, but it should give you an idea of what to look for. Things that aren't "technically" a requirement but are highly recommended are plants/decor and a light (UVB if you want to spoil them) to provide a day/night cycle. If you're wanting a Ball Python, options are practically endless on MorphMarket. Just make sure you do your research on a breeder before buying.

You want fiber not husk.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00167VVP4

That stuff in either the bag or they have it in bricks that you mix with water as well.

I can pretty much guarantee as long as your petsmart has a reptile section, it'll have ecoearth. They come in a brick like this ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007C8580K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jj17AbYM40X3N )
For playsand make sure it's mainly marketed as playsand, not allpurpose sand that can be used as playsand. People recommend buying this one ( https://m.lowes.com/pd/QUIKRETE-50-lbs-Play-Sand/3006085 )but i haven't seen it in person yet so you'll be find as long as it is mainly marketed as play sand.

Substrate that holds humidity well

(2 Pack) Zoo Med Eco Earth Bricks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUGYCL0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Heat pad

Zoo Med ReptiTherm Under Tank... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AQCKA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Heat mat thermostat and controller

BoHoFarm Heat Mat Thermostat... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LBGWMV9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Thermometer and humidity gauge

Zoo Med Labs Digital Thermometer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XY3X7P9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Make sure you read the instructions on every item, but these will allow you to create the best habitat for your ball python :).
Remember that a water bowl and at least one hide that is placed over the hot spot are needed as well. They’re not climbing snakes so something for them to climb isn’t necessary, but isn’t a bad idea for exercise and aesthetics. Let me know if you have any other questions!!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002DH0QM/ + https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EM2BRO/

I found an already mixed w/b sand though when i was setting up my larger tank. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027IZDZK/

You could try something as simple as sand or even copper BBs, just fill it up about 80% or 90% of the container volume with the media to make sure that you don't destroy your piece.

Edit: found links!

http://www.royalconstrictordesigns.com/ball-python-care-sheet
http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?127203-Ball-Python-%28Python-regius%29-Caresheet

hideboxes http://www.reptilebasics.com/hide-boxes

insulation covers 3 sides of tank https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GAD5G4/

substrate https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0157O1CM8/

iv been bitten once and it doesnt hurt, id rather be bitten then scratched by a cat

i used foil and tape (outside only) to cover 90% of the screen top

It's not overprice. It's actually a very fairly price and well thought out kit. There's some unnecessary things, and the stock nuvo lights are fine (I actually have them only cause I got a sweet deal), but I would rather get the tank only and different lights. Here's my
attempt to piece that kit together with more ideal parts:

NUVO FUSION 20 BY INNOVATIVE MARINE ($200 anywhere)
This kit includes the TANK WITH THE LIGHTS, which are $400 MSRP. Just get the tank at $200. Use the $200 you would've spent on a better light and fixture:


AI PRIME HD AND MOUNT ($225 for light MSRP, $30 mount, MSRP)
This is a much better light. Stronger. Controllable (able to control all spectrums, set a sunrise sunset schedule, all from a mobile app). The Nuvo lights are just on and off, with no switch. You have to plug them into outlet timers. The AI PRIME is way better, for only a little more.


20 LBS. OF REEF SAVER ROCK ($52 bulk reef supply)
This is actually a good price per pound.


100 ML INSTANT OCEAN BIO-SPIRA (NOT NEEDED)
If you cycle your tank properly, this isn't needed.


4 OZ CLORAM-X AMMONIA REMOVER (NOT NEEDED)
You shouldn't be using a chlorinated water source to begin with, so declorinator only enables bad habits. Get RODI water from a local reef store, or make your own, or at the very worst, use vending machine water.


20 LB. SPECIAL GRADE ARAG-ALIVE! LIVE REEF SAND ($30 amazon)
You definitely want at LEAST special grade sand. Google it. Grain size matters. Too fine, and you'll get a sandstorm when the water is moved.
https://www.amazon.com/CaribSea-Arag-Alive-20-Pound-Special-Bimini/dp/B000EM2BRO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479312554&sr=8-3&keywords=arag+alive


HW-MARINEMIX REEFER SALT MIX (DONT GET THIS SALT)
Instead, get the gold standard:


INSTANT OCEAN REEF CRYSTALS ($50 for enough to make 160 gallons, Drs Foster and Smith, also, FREE BUCKET!)
Make sure you get REEF CRYSTALS if you want corals (it's the orange box/bag), or you can get just the regular INSTANT OCEAN (purple box/bag) if you're doing fish only. This is the most trusted and widely used and available salt. I recommend you use it, so your corals always get the same consistency of nutrients, since this salt is sold everywhere and reliable.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=4856


REFRACTOMETER FOR READING SALINITY WITH CALIBRATION FLUID (THESE ARE UNNECESSARY)
Accurate? Yes. Pain in the ass? Also yes. Always having to clean these and calibrate them sucks. Get a standard plastic floaty arrow hydrometer instead.


HYDROMETER ($11 amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/Instant-Ocean-tk504-SeaTest-Hydrometer/dp/B00019JOSO


TUNZE CARE MAGNET NANO - 0220.010 CLEANER MAGNET (UNNECESSARILY OVERPRICED ITEM)
Everyone knows that when it comes to cleaning magnets, Mag Floats are the go to. Sure you can pay more, but you don't always get more.


MAGFLOAT SMALL ($12)
https://www.amazon.com/Gulfstream-Tropical-AGU030SM-Mag-Float-Aquarium/dp/B003WRKVUC


MARINE S PELLET FISH FOOD - HIKARI (THERE ARE BETTER FOODS)
The best widely available pellet fish good is New Life Spectrum.


NEW LIFE SPECTRUM THERA A ($10 most online places)
They have big pellets and small pellets. Make sure you get the small pellets.


HMA-S 50W FINNEX DIGITAL SUBMERSIBLE HEATER (YOU COULD BUY YOUR OWN FOR CHEAPER)


EHEIM JAGER 50W HEATER ($23 amazon)
These are pretty well regarded and reliable heaters. Avoid getting the $15 chinese heaters, for a few bucks more this is a brand you can trust.
https://www.amazon.com/EHEIM-Jager-Aquarium-Thermostat-Heater/dp/B003U82YEY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479313472&sr=8-1&keywords=50+w+heater+jager


HPS-100 FINNEX DIGITAL SUBMERSIBLE (GET ANOTHER FOR CHEAPER)
It's cool that the BRS team thought of this, but you can get your own large cheap heater for mixing water. Since it's a nuvo 20, and water changes would be around 2-5 gallons, a 150 watt or even 200 watt heater could warm up the water to match the tank pretty quickly.


EHEIM JAGER 150 WATT HEATER ($25 Amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/EHEIM-Jager-Aquarium-Thermostat-Heater/dp/B003M7P9YU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479313666&sr=8-3&keywords=150w+heater


HYDOR KORALIA EVOLUTION POWERHEAD 600 ($29 Amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/Hydor-Koralia-Evolution-Aquarium-Circulation/dp/B004F461UA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479313724&sr=8-1&keywords=hydor+koralia+600


So as you can see, you can do it with better parts and remove unnecessary things, but you'd be paying $697 before tax. Personally, I would still rather part it myself, because I know I can find used AI primes with mounts for $150-$200 (check the classifieds of reef forums or you local club). Also, I don't have to buy some of this stuff because I'm already in the fish hobby and have leftover heaters, or have friends who are that can help me get started. But if you're in a hurry and want to start, or this is your first endeavor into fish keeping and have no fish keeping friends, the BRS kit is not bad at all and the convenience is nice.

PROTIP: If you do plan on buying something this big from BRS, i'll let you in on a trick. First, make an account if you don't already have one. Then, add the kit to your cart. Then, leave it there for a few days. You'll get an email reminding you that you have it in your cart, and since it's a large purchase, they'll give you a coupon (i forget the percentage) to encourage you to buy it. Then use the coupon and buy it lol. WINNING!

if it helps, this is the moss I got https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZDT346/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

Standing water shouldn't be an issue in the enclosure as long as it's regularly cleaned, and you watch out for mold. Using something like these under your substrate will seriously kick up the humidity in there as long as you mist regularly. Cork wood decor also helps hold in humidity, as does moss. A large, shallow water dish helps too. If it stays too dry in there consistently, you might want to reevaluate your lighting.
I hope you and Lizard Bro prosper together.

Last question(hopefully), sorry to bother you.

Should I order this for my coconut husk mulch? Seems like a great deal just want to make sure it's the right stuff.

Here's a link for it on amazon so you can read the other reviews if you like http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Coconut-Substrate-Quarts/dp/B00167VVP4

> Also, humidity is still low. Low 50's, about 52. How can I raise that? His water dish can't get much bigger so I don't know the next step.

Better substrate. I recommend the coconut fiber substrate that's fairly common. Also, if you're using a glass aquarium, I recommend covering most of the screen top with aluminum foil or something similar. This will help keep the humidity you generate in the tank.

> It looks like he began shedding before I got him. Now the skin is peeling off in somewhat random spots. Head and neck seem fine but the body is scattered. Could this have to do with the humidity? What should I do about it?

Yeah. This is a bad shed and is very much due to low humidity while shedding. Humidity needs to be around 60% during a shed. In the meantime, you can soak him. Get a small tub with lid. Poke some holes in the lid and fill it halfway or so with water. Then put the snake in and put the lid on. You can leave him in for 15 minutes or so (checking on him every couple min). After that, take him out and put him in a towel. Hold the towel and let him crawl through it on his own while you loosely grip him using said towel. The stuck shed should come off very easily this way.

Repticarpet is awesome and affordable

My Syrian hamster has been very happy in this cage for the entire first year of his life so far. After a few days of exploratory climbing he has not once chewed on his bars or ever acted stressed because he wants out of his home.

30.5 x 8.5 x 18.5 inches:
http://www.amazon.com/Kaytee-Habitat-Multi-Level-Exotics-18-Inch/dp/B00CETSHN2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Excersize:
I recommend purchasing a Wodent Wheel 11inch http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JD8I2Y/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687462&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B005Y41UPQ&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1JBB5ENE1BEBPRFYR6JR

and Flying Saucer 12 inches : http://www.amazon.com/Ware-Flying-Saucer-Exercise-4-Inch/dp/B001AT62H0/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1462212985&sr=1-1-fkmr1&keywords=flying+saucer+hamster+11+inch

Bathing and Natural Nail Trimming:
Also pick up some flat Reptile Rocks for underneath his water bottle so he will trim his nails naturally and a large ceramic bowl (needs to be deep not so much wide) filled with Repti Sand Desert White (No Calcium) http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiSand%C2%AE-Pounds-Desert/dp/B0002DIZKC/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1462213181&sr=1-1&keywords=desert+white+repti+sand

My hamster is a fan of these Apple Orchard sticks for teeth filing though his lab blocks are semi hard and also good for dental health trimming.
http://www.amazon.com/SuperPet-Apple-Orchard-Sticks-Pieces/dp/B001CCXMP0/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1462213890&sr=1-2&keywords=apple+wood+sticks

After you get those things pick up this item as a natural grass burrow for him to sleep in and clean his cage once every week. Plastic burrow are just awful for air circulation, and my hamster never liked them at all when i didnt know any better.

http://www.amazon.com/Ware-Nature-Willow-Grass-Small/dp/B001ATBMCU?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00

For food I feed my hamster Higgins Sunburst and Kaytee Forti Diet Lab blocks everyday with fresh fruit and veggies every two days. Remember your hamster stomach is the size of your pinky finger nail so portion small. He loves 3-4 lab blocks a day with a small spoonful of nuts, seeds and fruit from the Higgins. Remember though 3 Sunflower Seeds max a day or they will get fat and unhealthy.

http://www.amazon.com/Higgins-Sunburst-Gourmet-Hamsters-Gerbils/dp/B009GHII5W/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1462213536&sr=1-1&keywords=higgins+sunburst

Looks like this but for Hamster not rat and mice:
http://www.amazon.com/Kaytee-Forti-Health-Mouse-5-Pound/dp/B001VJ56Z8/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1462213507&sr=1-1&keywords=kaytee+forti+hamster

For bedding you want UNSCENTED (it messes with their respiratory system if its scented) this Kaytee Clean and Cozy is what I use. Absorbs liquid good and keeps the smell down if its close to cleaning day.

http://www.amazon.com/Kaytee-Clean-Cozy-Small-Bedding/dp/B015MJB8PO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462214215&sr=1-2&keywords=kaytee+bedding

and last but not least. Buy TWO water bottles in case one of them jams overnight you DO NOT want your hamster to suffer from dehydration. They do not need much water, but when they need it, they need it fast or will get sick quick. The kaytee water bottles have issues with the spout pointing straight so buyer beware. They often dont align properly into the cage bars. But they do work and dont leak for me. Stick with GLASS water bottles, it just tastes better honestly. 6 ounces if you will change the water daily. 12 ounces if you are not as attentive.

http://www.amazon.com/Kaytee-SSR61982-Animal-Bottle-12-Ounce/dp/B007TUNWM2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1462214981&sr=8-4&keywords=kaytee+water+bottle

It seems like a lot of money at first and it is but this hamster will be your new furry friend and relies on only you to care for it, so give it the best and longest life possible. You will have one happy hamster if you get all that and will never need to upgrade anything when your Syrian grows bigger.

http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-HydroBalls-Lightweight-Terrarium/dp/B00167TXY0?ie=UTF8&keywords=hydro%20balls&qid=1464665909&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

2.5LBS for $10

Awesome, are the the lamps in the picture UVB/UVA Bulbs??? i only bought UVA Bulb for my red ear slider.

Looks like i will be buying this for the basking area.

Looks like healthy mycelium to me. Your substrate looks like that coconut mulch type stuff, though, which isn't ideal. You're on the right track though, there's a finer soil-type coconut substrate, that looks like this, that works better.

Here is what I am using. As /u/Underclock stated, this can be found generally at your local pet store.

I have 2 hermit crabs! /u/lynchmob1009 bought them for me when my last one died, we had him for about a year exactly. I will be honest they are pretty boring and can't do much other then get lost when I let them out but it really bugs m not to have another living creature in my room. I get lonely! :3

Here is a pic of my old crabby!

There a few cheap things on my wl for my lil crabby friends, here is some sand they really need for a clean and happy tank! :3


Ruff, ruff, meow, squeak

Hamsters, like chinchillas, roll around in sand to clean their fur! You can't bathe a hamster in water (unless something very bad happens, like them getting into something dangerous/toxic/very sticky and even then, it should be spot cleaned via water instead of a full bath)Although Chinchillas actually generally use dust, dust can be dangerous for a hamster's respiratory system, so it's better to use just plain sand.

You can really use any sort of sand, although I recommend Repti-sand or any sort of sand you can find at a pet store for reptiles. You could also just get sand from outside if you wanted to, but you'd have to put it on a tray and bake it to make sure no bugs or anything are in it when your hamster gets it.

As for where to put it, you can pretty much put it in anything the hamster can get in. A shallow bowl would be fine, but I'd definitely recommend some sort of container for easier cleaning. You can also either leave it in there permanently (in which case, you may have to clean it every now and again because some hamsters like using sand for their bathroom instead of the bedding), or put it in there for a day or so at a time.

https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Zoo-Med-Earth-Bricks/dp/B01MUGYCL0/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_199_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9TJ74GXV5D0F100M3N98 amazon page for eco earth.

The two primary ways of keeping humidity up in a PVC enclosure are: a large(ish) water bowl placed on/under the heat source, and substrate.

Everyone has a personal preference when it comes to substrate, but you can't go wrong with cypress or coconut-based products. I personally dislike coco coir (EcoEarth is the name brand) because it has a tendency to get dusty/messy, and I just don't like the aesthetic. I've had good success with cypress mulch in the past, but the unsustainable forest practices were making me feel guilty, so I recently switched to coco husk chips. Been very happy with this brand - both its ability to retain moisture and resist mold!

During particularly dry periods or shedding time, you can boost humidity by placing damp sphagnum moss under the hides or in a separate "humid hide".

Would this work?


http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Coconut-Substrate-Quarts/dp/B00167VVP4/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1414967795&sr=1-1&keywords=eco+earth



And this is what I cant use?

http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Laboratories-SZMEE10-1-Brick/dp/B007C8580K/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1414967880&sr=1-5&keywords=eco+earth

Also thanks for the link, it was very helpful. Also the spawn to sub ration is 1:2?

Your best bet is to hit your local pet store and look at the aquarium and terrarium section. The reptile and aquarium sections have sand of varying levels of coarsness/fineness. (reptile's generally use very fine grade sand which works great as sand for that scale as the coarse ones used for aquariums can cause issues with blockages when ingested by lizards) .

​

Exo Terra terrarium soil is also pretty good to use for soil.

​

Terrarium Moss is great for doing shrubs and folliage.

Yes! Forest floor (cypress mulch) doesn’t mold like aspen and you can mist it or pour water in directly. I know Amazon sells it but most stores that I’ve been to that sell reptile supplies have it too. Also I remember I got the compressed coco fiber block and it was SO wet after rehydrating it. I ended up getting a bag of loose eco earth to mix in and absorb some water.
Zoo Med Forest Floor Bedding, 24 Quarts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010OVM7A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D-czCbXHJYNFD
Zoo Med Eco Earth Loose Coconut Fiber Substrate, 8 Quarts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00167VVP4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ycdzCbDF55X9G

I use this terrarium once they're larger but I invested because I raise mantids as pets quite often.

For a twig, I use this

And for foliage I use this with the suction cup plonked near the top and the leaves hanging down that I found in the reptile section.

The fish and reptile sections at your local pet store are going to be your favorite aisles from now on.

For substrate a lot of people here prefer dirt (NEVER from outside, there are all kinds of parasites and mites in outside dirt!) But I prefer coconut fiber as my substrate because it's naturally antibiotic and will hinder fungal and bacterial growth, and smell nicer too.

You'll really come to love these little guys, and here's why. Mantids, unlike most "bugs" hunt via sight, not vibration. This means they move and act much more mammalian than other insects. They don't skitter, they don't make sudden scary movements or bite or attack on sight (well some do, they all have their own distinct personalities), and they're VERY smart.

Mantids have been known to be receptive to operant conditioning, AKA they can be trained like a dog would. You should try to handle them (gently and with clean hands) as they grow up, every couple of days, and by the time they're adults they'll readily calmly hang out with you whenever you want. You can plop them on your arm as you do computer stuff or whatever. They're very docile creatures most of the time and make great pets. Just be careful because they're fragile.

As others said, keep humidity around 50% and if they're Tenodera Sinesis then temperature should hover around 70F at night and 80F during the day, which means you'll want a dome reptile lamp and you'll need to figure our the appropriate distance from the top of the cage to place it. Don't place it right on top, the mantids love to hang out on top upside down and a lamp right there would fry them. Make sure there's at least 1 cool spot for them to cool off.

As for food and water, once they're a little bigger the crickets at the pet store should work fine. If they're super picky there are lots of online mantis stores that sell larger flies. and whet a sponge or paper towel in there to help with the humidity.

Yes, we use mesh on top of the bioballs to prevent the soil mix from draining into the drainage layer itself!
We haven't had to drain the drainage layer yet; Between the plant roots, substrate and bioballs all the waters been absorbed. Maybe it's something we'll have to do in the future though.

I've heard that native cleanup crew can take up residence themselves if you leave it as is. We established colonies of dwarf white isopods and springtails to prevent colonizers as I can be paranoid about what goes in with my scaled children and wanted to know what they were housed with! Haha!

As for the bioballs, I crept your profile and seen that you do a lot with various flora, so you probably already know what they are! :)
People just call them different things!

I added some Amazon links for a visual aid for you:

https://www.amazon.ca/Zoo-Med-HydroBalls-Lightweight-Terrarium/dp/B00167TXY0

https://www.amazon.ca/LiaFlor-Hydroton-Clay-Pebbles-litres/dp/B07K69QBGQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=clay+balls+hydroponic&qid=1571597940&sprefix=clay+balls&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyMFo5SVNHSURERjdUJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjcyMzYxMzlCV1NINkNFRVI4UCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzA3MjM1MlJZOFFIUU9RRFZWWiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

Just be sure to wash them off first if you do go the clay ball route!

Good luck! Hope to see an update in the future! :)

I have some Mojave Sand already for it. the only two things I'd need to buy would be this. Is this a good start?

https://smile.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Excavator-Burrowing-Substrate/dp/B000N5OM8S/ref=sr_1_2?crid=16MWUGEQOVNWL&keywords=excavator+clay&qid=1570129542&s=gateway&sprefix=excavator+clay%2Caps%2C212&sr=8-2

https://smile.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Coconut-Substrate-Quarts/dp/B00167VVP4/ref=sr_1_4?crid=11MUDK3PQLGV5&keywords=coco+fiber+substrate&qid=1570129565&s=gateway&sprefix=Cocofiber+%2Caps%2C212&sr=8-4

How much do you love the shelf vs the adonsonii? Lol

You could get something like this and wrap the arms of the shelf so the adonsonii can grab on?

If you like a more natural look then I'd go with that. If you ever want to move the plant though...its be literally stuck to the mat. So you could cut the mat off the pole, wrap it around something else, and hope the plant survives the stress.

It's just a chunk of this stuff (Frog Moss).

I happened to have a chunk of it that fit perfectly. My wife gave it to me as part of the "kit" she put together for the baby T.