Best terrarium heat lamps & mats according to redditors
We found 466 Reddit comments discussing the best terrarium heat lamps & mats. We ranked the 72 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 466 Reddit comments discussing the best terrarium heat lamps & mats. We ranked the 72 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
i've been paged for my link dump, so here it is. the first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions. let me know if any of the links don't work.
glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
I find these to work great for the price, you just need to keep them close, 1-3" away.
strip lights
or bulbs in reflector clamp lamps or in a desk lamp
Sounds like you were getting outdated or flat-out incorrect information and those 'experienced snake owners' are likewise misinformed. There are very few snakes that legitimately have evolved to thrive on sand-based substrate (irony being the Sand Boa is not one of them; they live in sandy soil which is very different composition than straight sand). The Ball Python is native to the svannah/jungles of Sub-Saharan Africa. Its dirt, soil, and burrows. Not a majority or even significant amount of sand.
Additionally, if I extrapolate correctly from this singular picture, your BP is also in a glass enclosure and has a log-style hide. The former makes keeping humidity in the 55~80% range a difficult exercise, and the latter, is a stressor as BPs do best with a hide that has a single-entrance or is cave-like; the more points of contact, the better, and a single entrance means they can feel safer.
I'm going to steal _ataraxia's ball python dump and toss it below:
i'm going to dump a bunch of links to get you on the right track. the first three links are detailed care sheets, the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly.
glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
Red light isn't good, you'll want a heat mat (MAKE SURE you have a thermostat for it or it will get too hot) and possibly a ceramic heat emitter (also needs a thermostat) for air heat. What are the temps and humidity and how do you measure them? Glass tanks usually don't hold humidity well and often aren't good for bps. You need at least 2 good hides, one for each side. They should be snug and enclosed with only one opening, preferably identical, half logs don't work.
Someone should come by with a really good care sheet, read it, it has some great info. I know this might be a lot of information, but having a good setup is important and will save you headaches in the future.
Edit: I found the care sheet. Credit to u/_ataraxia.
Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. It's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
You're going to want to pick up something like this. You set a temperature and an acceptable threshold (i have mine varying by only one degree), and it will automatically turn the heat lamp off and on to keep it at a consistant temperature.
I also have a under-tank heat mat for my hot side, which is the main thing used to warm my snake. I absolutely recommend getting one to put under your tank. Corns like to burrow and will get more benefit to having one on the hot side. I just use the heat lamp to keep the ambient air in the tank at an acceptable level. You will want to get a separate controller for the heat mat.
Edit: I also have an Indoor/Outdoor Thermometer just chilling in the tank to get a more accurate reading inside. Your tank atmosphere is going to usually be a bit different than the atmosphere in your room. I have the "inside" number reading the ambient temp of the tank, the "outside" number reading the inside of the under-tank mat (controller probe goes between mat and glass on the outside, and this prob sticks to the glass on the inside under the substrate), and it also tells me the humidity in the tank.
You want to keep your numbers as consistant as possible. I like to shoot for 85 degrees on the hot side, 75 degrees on the cool side, and between 40%-60% humidty. I hope this information helps. Let me know if you have any questions.
Edit 2: GoHerping does a great care guide video on YouTube, which is where I got most of my setup and care info from. There is also a link to their discord on the YouTube page that is full of friendly people that can answer a lot of your questions.
Edit 3: You're going to be better off using a Ceramic Heat Emitter instead of a bulb. It just produces heat and no light, which will be better with the controller ( you don't want the light isn't constantly turning off and on). Corns don't need UVB either, and do fine with just natural lighting (assuming the light in the room still follows the normal day/night cycle).
First of all. It's very good you recognize that you need help in learning how to care for the snake.
Second, here is a big link dump created by another regular user u/_ataraxia all credit for this goes to her.
the first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions.
glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
I'm just going to drop this link dump from u/_ataraxia. The first three links are fantastic care sheets and will talk about feeder size vs snake size and age. The rest of it highlights products you may need.
u/ataraxia has amazing information for ball pythons. You should definitely read it through. Glass tanks are not ideal for Bps, so this should help. Here is her normal dump of information I took from another post.
i'm going to dump a bunch of helpful links on you. the first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions.
glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
I've actually done what you're asking for with a chest freezer. I bought a PID thermostat, like this.
Then I replaced the thermostat in the fridge with the PID thermostat, that thermostat had a chiller output and a heater output (and heater could be configured to use the internal relay so I didn't need to use a second SSR). I connected the chiller to the compressor and the heater relay to an outlet box. The heater was just a reptile heating pad I plugged into the box and threw into the fridge, but that was a little on the low power end, I'd probably use a ceramic heater if I had to do it again. Also, all the PID controllers seem to be sold with a K-probe, those are no good, they don't measure below 0C, and the thermostat needs swing, so I needed to keep the set point over 2C to get it to work (which is not terrible). I ended up buying a PT100 probe which works well.
I use a reptile lamp for this exact reason. More then enough to get the fridge super warm.
That is a red eared slider. It is quite possibly the most popular pet turtle species. These turtles are popular because they're prolific and they look like little turtles, unfortunately in a few years that little turtle will have grown exponentially. Most of the time it's a parent who bought the turtle for a kid, kid loses interest, parent doesn't know what to do...
Do not release the turt. It would die in Toronto and even if it did not, environmentally if anyone releases a non indigenous species into the wild, although it sounds harmless enough there are large implications when it comes to OTHER reptile populations. This little turt could mate and create a bunch of other turts that eat up food sources etc...
1A.
A 10 gallon tank would be a great starter tank for a RES this size. 10 gallon tanks usually run about $10 at petsmart or petco so there is probably a similar cost up there
1.B
You will need two lights to run during the day:
1 UVB fixture with a bulb
and 1 heat lamp. Some people splurge and purchase heat lamp bulbs specifically made for reptiles, however I have found that using a household bulb provides the same amount of heat. User a bulb that the fixture can handle.
1C.
The turt will need a basking platform. There are super cool options but simple and efficient is the way to go if you're starting.
1D.
You will need a filter. Turtles poop a lot more than fish do so when you're shopping for filters always double the GPH needed to account for the extra nitrates.
1E.
You will need food. Every food is different and let me tell you from experience that you can spend hours researching what is best to feed your turtle...
Protein:
I have learned that omnivorious turtles such as a red eared slider do well if they are started with a protein rich diet and then transition into adulthood with an omnivorous diet.
I would suggest doing the following: go to the grocery store and buy a small Salmon fillet. It may seem silly, but it will last you a very long time. Keep the Salmon in the freezer and feed the turt a few small strips (a serving size should be thought of as, if the turts head were empty, how much food could you fit in it). Make the strips small enough so that the turtle can swallow it.
Feeding tip: Salmon or any other form of protein such as bloodworms, krill etc... can be quite messy because of the amount of oil in the meat. Many turtle keepers (me included) prefer to feed turtles outside of the tank in order to keep the living tank clean. get a small rubbermaid tub or something, make sure it's clean of course and fill it up with enough water for the turt to float around. feed the turt in that water, when you're done, discard the water and put the fat n happy turt back in the living tank. This method lowers the frequency of water changes and keeps the tank cleaner. Handling the turtle like this to feed is also helpful to make the turtle okay with being handled.
Calcium:
As you will read, reptiles need calcium in order to stay healthy. Snakes need calcium in the form of rat bones, bearded dragons eat crickets but turtles do best when supplemented with a cuttlebone. There are turtle specific cuttlebones but they're more expensive and the only real different is that they do not have the hard backing that the cuttlebones for birds have. All you have to do to remove the backing is toss it in a saucepan, boil it for a minute or so, let it cool and then that backing can peel off. This also softens up the cuttlebone some. It's not easy to get the backing off in one fell swoop, but turtles don't care if the cuttlebone is in one big piece or if it's in little white chunks. Calcium supplementation is vital for young turts just as the protein is. Once a week or so is good for calcium.
I have rambled. I am passionate about reptiles so I tend to nerd out. Anyway. Please feel free to PM me with questions, I would really love to help in any way.
Chad
Zoo Med reptile heat cord...50 watts
https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Cable-Watts/dp/B0002DIWMS/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1510938950&sr=1-2&keywords=reptile+heat+cord
Reptile wire
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DIWMS/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_h5QKDb8JWP1AT
K&H makes an outdoor weathersafe thin hard plastic mat that heats based on applied weight. It doesn't get Hot, just warm enough. They're used mostly in small rabbit and chicken farms, but can also be used for cats and hamsters, etc. And it's safe to put a thin layer of cloth over it.
I don't work for K&H. (I know I sound like a sales bot.) I have an outdoor cat that's been through winters before. This is what I got for her on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NVC7DO It has lasted 2 winters so far with no problems. Best of luck with your new little friends! I'm sure they'll.. Warm Up to you quickly.
sure!
the usual method if you dont have a lamp handy is to just buy one of these. can be repositioned all over the place!
for powerful bulbs, 2-4 feet depending on plant size and fragility.
for other kinds of setups, you could look into T5 fixtures, that's like the standard florescent tube you've seen anywhere. these can be kind of ugly though...
There's been lots of topics about small lights such as decent clamp lights etc. I myself have posted a topic here. Make sure to use the search bar!
Quick answer:
Take a look at reptile heat rope it provides even, safe heat. It works great for a fermentation chamber.
That's for a T5 bulb, you want a hood for a T8 bulb. Then pick your size how long you need it. Then buy the T8 bulb that's 5 or 5.0 which means it's 5% UVB.
Here are some examples. If there is a plastic cover over the bulb you obviously run the light with the cover off, otherwise it blocks the UVB which is the whole reason for the bulb. You can get the bulbs at petsmart or petco if you are in the USA for around their normal price of around 20 USD just get them to price match their website price, otherwise they price gouge and literally double the price at the retail store.
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L1OKNCO/?coliid=I3C699EJ1G5CZ2&colid=11G1DAPZDOOGK&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002QI86U/?coliid=I2PKG6AS6V1AL8&colid=11G1DAPZDOOGK&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Labs-Reptisun-Terrarium/dp/B06XYWQJDK/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=reptisun+t8&qid=1572724972&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-1
https://www.amazon.com/ReptiSun-5-0-UVB-Fluorescent-Bulb/dp/B000255OS6/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=reptisun+t8&qid=1572725015&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-5
I bought this for my 7 cu ft chest freezer, and an inkbird itc-308 and it seemed to work well. (Maybe a little underpowered)
I now use a mini fridge as a ferm chamber, and it seems just right.
I've been told that heating pads aren't good because they don't heat the air well enough and a failure could burn your hedgie, so I stick with a lamp.
And that's it!
pet stores are actually known to NOT (or rarely) carry thermostats, which is one of the reasons why a lot of people don't know you need them.
you can buy them on amazon, pay for fast shipping (this one is widely used)
same for the gun, any cheap one is fine (i use this one)
if you can only get one, definitely get the thermostat as it's one of the most important things
so at petsmart just pick up hides and the aspen bedding. ideally both hides should be the same. get a hide that looks pretty small! you would be surprised at how small my hides are compared to how big my snake is. they can really squeeze in there and feel secure. if the hide is too big, it won't make them feel safe.
i would recommend joining this forum, there are a ton of people there who have been keeping snakes 10+ years who can better answer your questions.
Her tank is okay right now. That’ll be a money burner upgrade. I usually do 40 gals or 40 gal breeders but the dimensions sound fine. Sometimes petco or petsmart do $1/gal deals you could get a new tank then if you felt like it.
Get her more hides, some foliage and make sure that water dish is large enough that she could almost completely submerge, even if she never does. Here’s a cool looking example. You definitely don’t need to adhere to that level of creativity but you can do a lot with them.
Get a large heat mat and a thermostat. Controlling the temperature like that will save you grief. Sometimes I get heat bulbs to supplement heat but in that case I get ceramic. Don’t get bulbs that show light at night it disturbs the sleeping pattern of the snake. Temps should be 85 F on hot side low to mid 70’s on cool side. Belly temp is a lot more important than having just a lamp. If nothing else, heat mat.
GoHerping is one of my favorite dudes for these types of snakes. Here’s an easy full guide that I trust.
Edit: for cheap hides go to a dollar store and get black plastic pots for plants and cut a hole like a cave. Cheap and easy hide that works well! Just don’t make jagged edges. You can get those for under $5 for multiple, fake suction leaves at petco for $5 each package, thermostat is ~25 ish, lamp and bulb are about ~40ish total, or a pad for about the same
Reposting the famous u/ _ataraxia info:
Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. It's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
Thanks dude!
Yes, the bulb can be a bit heavy. I had good luck with this socket: https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Deluxe-Aluminum-Reflector-Included/dp/B01E9IY6US/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?keywords=light+bulb+socket&qid=1562912646&s=gateway&sprefix=light+bulb+&sr=8-12
It has a clip and it can be used to sort of prop the bulb up. Just have to take the big shade off.
Also, I’ve taken the clip off and just propped its back end up on a pillow.
Okay well I have a few different options for you.
The setup I went with that works really well is to buy two softboxes ($65). This will get you really good lighting and you can add a rear or hair light to do 3 point lighting very easily later if you want to make it slightly better.
Before that I had 2-3 clip lamps ($8 each) which worked alright, but definitely not nearly as good as the softboxes. You will want to put some daylight bulbs in them and then cover the front with some paper to diffuse the light. This is probably your cheapest setup, but the quality difference is worth the extra price for softboxes IMO.
You can also go with LED camera lights ($37 each) but for the price you might as well get the softboxes and be done with it.
Amazon! A small clamp light and a light bulb that hopefully matches the best specs for a good grow light! It took me a couple tries to find one small enough to not blind everyone around my desk too, and I went off of suggestions to get one with 30W+, 6500K, and 2000+ lumens.
I'm gonna quote what I wrote about my set-up in another thread. Small, cheap, and can clamp anywhere. Good luck!
> Very, very basic. I only got into succulents about two months ago, so keep in mind I'm very much a beginner.
>
> Right now, I have three clamp lamps with these bulbs, clipped onto a leaning desk. It's pretty cheap and seems to be working out for me so far, judging by the compact new growth on my light-hungry Echeverias. But I'm running out of grow-light room! I've been debating upgrading to one of these or simply just buying another clamp lamp to cover more surface area (since I know my addiction will eventually lead to me buying more babies).
Get some 100W LED daylight bulbs.
And one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Deluxe-Aluminum-Reflector-Included/dp/B01E9IY6US/
And also one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Toplimit-Standard-Splitter-Heat-resistant-86V-240V/dp/B00T5JD2P2
That's if you want super ghetto and super cheap. And/or super easy to say "oh it is not for growing weed, mom and dad. It is for my photography studio. which is a much more expensive hobby than growing weed."
If you have the money for it, getting each of you a mic like the Samson Q2U or Audio-Technica ATR2100 will go a long way in making the sound better. Another thing is to do some basic acoustic treatment. If you string up a heavy blanket behind each of you, and another on the wall that's in frame, it will cut out a lot of the echos and make you sound a lot better (no matter what mic you're using).
For video, I'm not sure there is much that can be done to the recording quality without spending a bunch of money on a camera, but there are a couple of things you can still do to make it look nicer. First of all, improve your lighting. Everything is well lit, but if you focus the lights more on your faces and have less light in the background, it will add a nice contrast to the scene (clamp style work lights are a cheap solution if you need more lights). The other thing is more audio based, but record the video and audio separately. Audacity is a free software for audio recording/editing, and if you can record it there as well as in OBS, you can have the audio only for a more 'traditional' podcast.
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I know it sounded like a lot of critique there, but overall what you have isn't bad. There's room for improvement, but the only thing I would consider as needed would be some acoustic treatment. I hope this all helped!
They need to be relatively close to be effective as far as I've read but it's worth it. It doesn't have to be elaborate just a bulb like this (you want it to be 6500k) and a desk lamp or clamp light .
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01E9IY6US/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511774078&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=clip+on+shop+lights&dpPl=1&dpID=410mNADp05L&ref=plSrch
you can get away with one of these and a plant led or cfl bulb and they will do fine...put on a timer if you want as well
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Lo-oDbPBMW1A8
Check this out. Plug your heater into it, and set the thermostat of the device to your maximum allowable temperature. Let's say, the heater is set to 78°, and the thermostat controller is set to 82°. The heater will function independently to keep the water at 78° because the controller is providing power. If the heater malfunctions and starts cooking, at 82°, the controller will turn off power to the heater, rendering it unable to boil your tank.
Slow money is better than no money! :)
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Sorry for the delayed response. Here's some of my recommendations:
Jumpstart/Century Pulse Thermostat - $17 - Super reliable and cheap!
Slightly cheaper 'Repti Zoo' Pulse Thermostat - $16 I've had this one previously, the brand was different but it's the same model. I'd only choose this over the jumpstart if you are forced to - due to stocking issues etc.
- I can't seem to find many of the ones that we have in the UK on the Amazon US site, but Id' 100% recommend the jumpstart.
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Also, you're gonna need two of them. I've heard of people using this product here ($36) to control two at once. Might be worth looking in to :-)
I have two heating pads on the bottom of Renault’s tank, a high wattage (~17W) at the hot end and a low wattage (~10W?)in the middle. Both are thermostatically controlled though, with sensors inside the tank under the carpet and on the glass, so they kick on and off at preset temperatures to maintain the temperature gradient, and don’t let the carpeting get above a very safe temperature.
With that said, I think that might be overkill; the low wattage one simply cant get the floor too hot, and the bigger one even running full time during the day might not either. Possibly better safe than sorry.
This was the thermostat I chose; Century Digital Heat Mat... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I don’t know if they’re well respected or not; one of mine arrived dead, the other was fine. I popped the case off the dead one and re-soldered the resistor that wasn’t done right at the factory (I was in a hurry and didn’t want to faff about with a return) which fixed it. I will say they seemed well designed (very simple, but nice component choice) and that one resistor notwithstanding, well put together.
Hello everyone,
Earlier this week I got my first snake, which was a female western hognose. Unfortunately, the previous owners seem to have provided lackluster care (here was the tank, bedding etc she came in).
I have since purchased a 40 gallon tank, got new bedding, purchased 2 hides, added a larger heating pad, light lamp, and have a thermometer I'll be installing on the heat lamp...
...but 24 hours after transferring the snake to her new tank, she hadn't shown herself at all.
At first she explored her new, larger surroundings. But then she buried and I didn't see her. Worried, I just found her on the cooler non-lit/non-heated side still not moving much (and generally not happy with my bothering her).
Concerns:
Here is a picture of the new setup. I used this ReptiChip substrate (coconut husk), which I'm a bit anxious about because it specifically mentions pythons and boas, not a hognose. I followed their instructions using water to expand the chips and add some moisture, but the moisture is collecting in the tank (picture at the base here).
When I tried to find her in the substrate, I noticed a small flying insect similar to a gnat. Not sure if this is relevant or this is just something I should watch out for.
Many thanks for all y'alls help. I apologize for my ignorance. In posting this (and quickly purchasing more/better products), I am doing my best to care for the animal.
I just put mine together this weekend.
Around $220 for everything, but you can fit two 6 gallon carboys and two 3 gallon carboys or a few 1 gallon jugs on the hump.
Maybe? They make bigger ones http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Cable-Watts/dp/B0002DIWMS/ref=pd_sim_petsupplies_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0X97JFSD5FBXSE8RD0XS
The first review I read: "I use this heater cord inside a refrigerator that I stripped out to make a fermentation chamber for homebrewed beer. I use a STC-1000 aquarium temperature controller to control the cool side of temperature and then I use this reptile heater cord to warm things up if the temperature gets too low overnight or in winter. I am controlling temperatures somewhere between high 40s to low 50s for lager and low 60s to low 80s for ales. This is a good price for the heater side of things and works very well at holding temperatures precisely."
Another one said it worked for a 4.4 cu ft fridge.
I have one of these and taped it to the lid with some electical tape. I have it hooked up to one of these dual temp regulators and it works great.
EDIT: Sorry, actually I have the 50w version - here's the link to that length
We have this in our cat's cat house outside. It uses about 25 watts, which is FAR less than any space heater will use (the one you linked is 400w). It's much more efficient because it directly heats the animal, instead of heating all the air around them (which inevitably circulates away and loses heat through walls etc.). It won't heat them when they're not lying on it, but in a basement that shouldn't be a problem. I can't imagine it gets that cold down there, and they do have fur, after all.
I use a reptile heating cable 25W. I was able to get my 5 cubic ft freezer up to 82 F with an ambient temp around 50F in my garage. They have higher wattage if you need more heat. Just taped it around the side of my chest freezer at the bottom.
http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Cable-14-75-Feet/dp/B001OVBEEK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420824232&sr=8-1&keywords=Reptile+Heat+Cable
I use this reptile heater in my chamber. I've been really surprised at how well it works. It's not going to get you to 90 degrees, but inside the ferm chamber inside a closed garage, it can keep a 5gal batch in the 50-60F range when it's below freezing outside. Seasonally, I'll move to lagers when the temps drop, but this keeps things from getting too cold or having temp swings.
Also because it's all sealed, you've got a much lower fire risk than some of the alternatives I've seen.
YES! It does work. And very well, I might add. For my setup, though, I used my fermentation chamber (small refrigerator) and reptile wrap. Wrapping the cable around the mash tun, I duct taped as I went (you don't want to overlap the tape). From there I plugged it into and set my temp controller. The heating cable never got so warm as to interfere with the duct tape and it is still holding after 3 batches like this.
After checking the thermometer about every 6 hours the first time I did this process, I know that it holds 110 without issue. If you don't have a fermentation chamber, I'd use a ski jacket or a sleeping bag for insulation. Happy souring!
Use this:
Zoo Med Reptile Heat Cable 25 Watts, 14.75-Feet by Zoo Med
Link: http://amzn.com/B001OVBEEK
Keeping my saison a warm 86 degrees (ferm chamber) in 38 degree garage.
At night time, you want it to be night time. Namely, as dark as you can make it in the cage. We are keeping ours facing away from lights that might get turned on late at night, which should hopefully keep things dark for our dragon.
As others have said, your concern at night isn't giving them light, it's keeping them 'warm'. Not at hot as daytime, but not letting things fall below 18C (65F). If your house does get that cold, you need a non-light emitting heat element for your vivarium.
You have a few choices there. Personally I've gone with a ceramic heat emitter. Here is an example of one off Amazon. Don't let their cheesy graphics fool you, these emit zero visible light. Make sure your dome fixture is up to the task! The one i linked is a 150W device. You will want to be sure that your dome light/housing and vivarium are able to deal with that heat!
Another alternative is to use an under cage heating element. Something like a flex-watt or the like just to give a gentle radiant heat over the whole cage. I'm not as familiar with this solution, so I cannot comment much on it's use. Just make sure your cage can take the heat, and that you aren't cooking things on the inside!
Awesome on you for reaching out to learn more and give your lizard better care! I wish you all the best as you upgrade your vivarium!
My wife and I don't use heating pads. We have a dedicated enclosure for our hedgie and use central heat and air coupled with a heater and window unit to keep his temp at around 75°F. That being said, there are passive things you can do to help keep the room warmer. Blackout curtains help keep the room at a more constant temperature. Depending on the size of the room, a heater like this one can help stabilize it too. Heating pads can be useful, but if at all possible, it'll be safer to try and keep the ambient air temperature in the proper range.
​
Also, depending on what kind of enclosure you're using, you might want to use a ceramic heat emitter with a temperature sensor on it and use a battery operated thermometer to measure temp near hedgie level. We used to have this set up and kept the thermometer on top of Odin's hut so we could get a reading from somewhat higher than where he'd be. Once it's dialed in, the CHE with the temp sensor will keep your hedgie comfy and warm.
CHEs must be attached to ceramic sockets.
This is an example
https://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Repta-Clamp-Lamp-Switch-Reptiles/dp/B0002DHODG
or this
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Spotted-Terrariums-Reptiles-Amphibians/dp/B00OHRAOFS
you do not need more than a 100 watt CHE
So this
https://www.amazon.com/BYB-Ceramic-Infrared-Emitter-Brooder/dp/B00IOBZT80
this of course must be attached to a dimmer or a thermostat so this
https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-Controller-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S
or this with a thermometer
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-TT-300H-WH-Electronics-Plug-Dimmer/dp/B0000BYEF6
Hi!
I can point you to the CHE setup I am using for my hog.
I use a Zoo Med clamp lamp ($20)
with a 100W CHE bulb ($11)
I have tried a couple of different thermostats. I currently use and recommend the Zilla reptile thermostat ($26). I like this one because (1) it has clear lights indicating when the lamp is on, and (2) the dial has clearly labeled temperatures so you can set it to something like 74 degrees and be happy. My previous themostat didn't have any temperatures labeled on the dial which was incredibly irritating.
Finally, and this is absolutely not necessary, I also use a Zoo Med reptile lamp stand ($20). My hog lives in a plastic sterilite bin and, after reorganizing my living room, I no longer have a good place to clamp the lamp to. The lamp stand allows me to clamp the lamp to the stand where I can easily slide the cage in and out to better access the hog.
Note: I don't know if its only my area, but for some reason Amazon's prices for all of these components are significantly less than all the nearby pet stores (e.g. a CHE bulbs at the two closest brick-and-mortar stores cost $30-$40 vs $11 at amazon)
I also use a chest freezer + stc-100, but with a [heat cable] (http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Cable-Watts/dp/B0002DIWMS)
You'll need a thermostat, a cheap DIY way:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ebay-aquarium-temp-controller-build-163849/
Not too hard to put together. Or as others have mentioned a Ranco or Johnson if you don't feel up to the task. Note that the "eBay controller" is DUAL stage, so you can control both heating and cooling. Depending on your environment this may or may not be very important. For instance, my chamber is in the garage so I need to be able to control both heating and cooling during certain months. Some commercial products also do this...for a price.
For heating I use:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002DIWTG/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details
But I just started using heat this fall. Has been working well so far, the cable does not get hot to the touch, only warm. Since I installed this in a chest freezer that acts as cooling (which worked excellent this summer).
http://www.amazon.com/Under-Cabinet-Fluorescent-Light-Stick/dp/B0026KW4QK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397084114&sr=8-1&keywords=24+flourescent+light+fixture
http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Savers-Slimline-Terrarium-Fixture/dp/B0002QI86U/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1397084114&sr=8-4&keywords=24+flourescent+light+fixture
http://www.amazon.com/Lights-America-7020-Fluorescent-Light/dp/B00004WA4D/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1397084114&sr=8-6&keywords=24+flourescent+light+fixture
The compact UVB bulbs are garbage actually. What you want is a Reptisun 10.0 fluorescent tube, which you can put in a fixture like this
You can just set the fixture on top of the screen and that'll be fine
I used this http://www.amazon.com/Heated-Resting-Small-Animals-Inches/dp/B000NVC7DO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411928401&sr=8-1&keywords=heating+pad+small+animal
Idk if it will ship to canada in the mean time grab some hand warmers for a quick fix lots of blankets lamps directly shining on him maybe just turn up the temp in the house a little bit....
But if this is a concern then putting it on the side is equally as dangerous if the hamster sleeps pressed against the side of the tank/cage (which seems more common than ones that dig below all their layers of bedding to sleep flush with the bottom).
I would assume most hamsters would move if they are uncomfortable - the important part is ensuring they have somewhere safe and comfortable to move to if they become too warm.
Regardless, OP should make the call based on their ham's sleeping habits and cage placement. If he has a tendency to burrow below all the bedding, then maybe place it on the side.
I'd also suggest getting pads made specifically for small animals. For example, this one has a lot of positive reviews from hamster owners: https://www.amazon.com/Pet-Products-Animal-Outdoor-Heated/dp/B000NVC7DO/
I wouldn't recommend using one of the soft heating pads meant for human muscle relaxing - they actually make cage heating pads for exactly this purpose! they are safe to be left plugged in for long periods of time, and the soft ones are not. I had one of these under my ham's cage for a long time.
There's one linked in the wiki: https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000NVC7DO/wabbi-20
Assuming your tank dimensions are 48 1/4 x 12 3/4 x 16 7/8 (L x W x H), you’ll be one that is as close to 16 x 12 as possible.
This Fluker’s brand is $26 and 17 x 11:
Fluker's Heat Mat for Reptiles and Small Animals, Large (17 x 11 Inches, 20 watt) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00164PW9S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JQHQBb6SYFDG4
This one is a bit cheaper at $22 and 20 x 8:
Zilla Reptile Terrarium Heat Mats, Large, 24 Watt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002Z5O9IW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kPHQBbKV4TKVP
Also, don’t forget a regulator so you don’t overcook your Leo! They are absolutely necessary in my opinion. This is the one I have personally:
Jump Start MTPRTC Digital Controller Thermostat For Heat Mats, Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_gMvIYsOQnXKH1
These are not affiliate links; I’m not being paid. We also have an amazing guide pinned to the top of this subreddit that you should check to make sure you’re not missing anything.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00164PW9S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
This is what we use, and it actually got too hot so we got a slide switch to use with it. Granted we live in NC so it doesn't get terribly cold. we use the large size and just keep it underneath the tub btw.
I use a reptile heating cord. Works really well and it's cheap.
https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Cable-14-75-Feet/dp/B001OVBEEK
I have an inkbird and a 5cu feet freezer too! My fermentation chamber is in my garage and I need a way to warm it up if the ambient garage temp go to cold for the fermenting beer (live in Colorado). It tried small ceramic heaters but they were cycling way too much and turning off.
After some trial and error A great way I had found to keep my fermenter in the temp sweet spot was actually this reptile heater lined on the inside of the freezer! It works really well and it’s only $20ish!
Zoo Med Reptile Heat Cable 25... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OVBEEK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I have a decent sized wine fridge, and I use a lizard cage heating cable to line the inside of the chamber: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OVBEEK
By far the easiest thing I have ever used was reptile heat cable.
It seems to last forever, no clips or electrical engineering required. Just plug it in and configure it underneath the cage wherever you want it. You can even tape it up the sides or use the extra cable to heat a second, third, or fourth cage. The number of loops you use is directly proportional to how large the cage is and how large of a warm spot you want: example
example
I made a foam insulation box and have a Heat Cable and a stc-1000 temperature controller and my fermantation chamber stays withing 1-2 ° of set temps.
They have old heating pads in them that were originally bought who-knows-where. The pads are fake lambswool, so they're soft, and they don't get particularly warm; just enough to keep the chill away. They may have originally been from a drugstore.
My Dad also once built a large aviary with a heated nesting box inside, and he used heating cable in that -- something like this. You could put cable down and cover it with an old towel or sleeping pad.
Here's Sadie again, by the way.
Since the other person couldn't give you approx prices for beardies, I can do that!
​
I'll repeat this at the beginning, but do not buy starter kits. It's tempting. Do not buy starter kits. They will have items that are dangerous to beardies.
Setup:
Terrarium - Very basic setup. I've seen this brand up to $190 locally, but of course it's cheaper online. ***Note: It's not suggested you get this size enclosure immediately, unless you're rescuing or purchasing a young adult or adult. Hatchlings can live happily in a 20gal glass tank for their first 9mo or so, but they grow quickly!
Substrate - Paper towels, newspaper, or ceramic or stone tile. I spent $8 on slate tile and broke it to fit my terrarium. All other options are dangerous to beardies in some way or another. No sand. No repticarpet. No gravel.
Light fixture - $37, but if you look around you can find something non-branded for much cheaper than this. Must be a bare bulb visible, no cover to diffuse light. I used to have a 4ft shop light fixture, but went down to an 18" fixture just for the cheaper price of the bulbs. Which comes to...
UVB bulb - $20, replaced every 6 months. Very important to replace regularly.
Heat lamp dome - $12
Ceramic heat emitter - $12.
Reptile calcium - $2-5
Food dish - $5 max?
Plus whatever decor you want. Most people go for hammocks, a hide, fake plants. Real plants aren't suggested and will either be destroyed or eaten, and many are poisonous. Beardies do not need a water dish (too much humidity is actually bad for them) and do not frequently drink from standing water, so owners usually bathe them weekly to give them opportunity to drink their fill.
Baby bearded dragons eat about 80% live food and 20% plants. By the time they're adults (about 18-24mo) they transition to 80% plants and 20% live food. How much you spend on food will vary depending on what you're buying for their staple, but I would buy a butternut squash for probably $2 or so, dice it up, and freeze it. My guy loved it. I'd supplement with other foods on the safe food list, a mixture of fruit and veggies.
Say about $5 per 2 weeks for live food for a baby and however much for veggies. Thankfully for the veggies, anything your beardie doesn't want to eat, you can, so I don't count it as much haha
While beardies DO have an expensive setup (like most reptiles), their actual maintinence costs are fairly low and their adorable derpiness is absolutely worth the initial cost! They can live up to 15 years or so - my boy, Warra, was 12 when I had to put him down due to an inoperable tumor in his mouth. It's been close to two years since I've had one, and I miss having beardie compansionship every day! I'm slowly succumbing to the urge to get a new baby...
​
Edit: I wrote all of this, and forgot the price of the beardie...... Beardies can range anywhere from $60 to $500, depending on whether you're looking for a normal beardie, or a morph!
I've got 2 of these and 1 of these. I much prefer the under-tank one, as it's adjustable. The other one sticks to the side of the tank and you can't move it without destroying the adhesive, though you can replace it with adhesive from Home Depot or something.
Exo Terra sells a heat lamp and mount
7 inch lamp housing
bracket
The lamp housing supports up to a 150w bulb
And you might want to regulate it with a rheostat
Checking temps regularly with a temp gun
Or you can use a thermostat with the probe on the hot side to regulate the CHE, but I've heard of snakes moving them causing temps to drop or climb, depending.
OPULENT SYSTEMS 24"x24"x48"... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JNQXMRT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
AmazonBasics 3-Shelf Shelving... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZAV8KH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
BaoGuai Reptile Mister... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PLFC8X4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
BYB - 150W 110V Ceramic Infrared... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HFNZ59Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Simple Deluxe Clamp Lamp Light... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9IY6US?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Inkbird Digital Pre-Wired Outlet... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FQKXRXA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
These are terrible. For snakes, you want to ditch the coloured bulbs & go for ceramic emitters (http://www.amazon.com/BYB-Ceramic-Infrared-Emitter-Brooder/dp/B00HFNZ59Q) in a porcelain clamp lamp such as http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Deluxe-Porcelain-8-5-Inch/dp/B0002AQCXM/ attached to a stand such as http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Stand-Economy/dp/B000HG76B8 (highly recommended as ceramic emitters are a large fire hazard, reaching over 700f) . Exo terra terraniums such as http://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Short-Terrarium-12-Inch/dp/B008N9LYJ6 are great for beginner snakes which don't have unusually high humidity requirements (mesh tops found on glass tanks let out lots of humidity compared to e.g. plastic tubs with air holes melted via soldering iron). While the ceramic emitter will raise the ambient temperature, your snake will also want a very warm spot to go to for belly heat to aid digestion, so a heat mat such as http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiTherm®-Heater-Medium/dp/B0002AQCL4/ attached to a thermostat such as http://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/ is highly recommended. The thermostat is not optional as heat mat's reach over 105f which can be fatal. As for supplementary light in e.g. winter, snakes have no special requirements as compared to other reptiles for uva/uvb, so any desk lamp or room lighting would suffice. As for decoration, snakes don't care. Hides can be made out of cereal boxes, butter containers etc, substrate can be newspapers, shredded tissue paper (not shredded paper as it causes cuts), or you can research more professional substrate for your specific snake (beware the earthy substrate which can cause impactation/death if ingested, also wood chips can harbour mites - simple paper is often better!). As for monitoring humidity/temperature within the tank, the analogue ones suck. I would recommend a digital one such as http://www.amazon.com/Avianweb-Digital-Thermo-Hygrometer-Black/dp/B00U2S6JSC/ - even if 10% out as per reviews, they are better than analogues which are 20-30%+ out and get more inaccurate over time. Finally, not required, but useful is an ir gun such as http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY/ so that you can get a sense of the surface temperatures around the tank that your snake is crawling across, and to ensure your hot hide is within parameters and not lethally exceeding 105f.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HFNZ59Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521244990&sr=8-1&keywords=che+bulb+150+watt&dpPl=1&dpID=51CtCt4oNLL&ref=plSrch
Amazon has them sale also! But yes yours will work :)
Try forest floor for humidity issues. It's great bc when humidity falls you can mix a cup of water in it
Your ball python is nocturnal, you don't need to light it up. Light will not only stress your snake out but eat away at your humidity. There is ZERO reason to add lights to your enclosure. Check out Ceramic Heat Emitters. They produce heat, but do not produce humidity eating stress inducing light. I have CHE's on both my enclosures. The day light that fills my office is enough "day and night cycle" as some people seem to think it's needed.
Check out CHEs. They produce heat, but no light. http://www.amazon.com/BYB-Ceramic-Infrared-Emitter-Brooder/dp/B00IOBZT80/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1462043496&sr=1-4&keywords=ceramic+heat+emitter
You'll want to plug this into a lamp dimmer, cheap but very important. The dimmer will allow you to control the temp of your CHE. http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-TT-300H-WH-Electronics-Plug--Dimmer/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462043561&sr=8-1&keywords=lamp+dimmer
This is a much much better alternative to a heat bulb, the red and the black lights are also not needed. Your CHE can stay on all the time, just make sure you have accurate digital humidity and temp gauges so you can keep things steady.
Your humidity should be at 55-65%, cool side 80-82, ambient 84-86, and warm side 88-90. If you're using a tank, blocking out three sides with black poster board or anything like that will help make your snake feel more secure and help insulate it a little. If you have a screen lid, using aluminum tape on top of the lid spare where the CHE in it's hood sits will help insulate heat and humidity inside the tank a bit.
If you're keen on doing some work to save money and have some tools lying around, you could build your own enclosure for much cheaper than premade ones. There's plenty of tutorials and the materials (usually wood or acrylic) are fairly affordable. The long term costs of owning a snake are pretty negligible, it's the initial cost that's going to be pretty high.
Aside from the enclosure, you also need; a heat mat (ex), a thermostat (ex1 ex2), thermometer and hygrometer (ex), substrate (ex1 ex2), 2 hides (ex), water dish (ex), ceramic heat emitter (ex), cleaning supplies (ex), and a mist bottle (ex).
Those are all just examples and some of them might not work for you, but it should give you an idea of what to look for. Things that aren't "technically" a requirement but are highly recommended are plants/decor and a light (UVB if you want to spoil them) to provide a day/night cycle. If you're wanting a Ball Python, options are practically endless on MorphMarket. Just make sure you do your research on a breeder before buying.
Also what I use, except the Amazon one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IOBZT80/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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It works great. Make sure you have a fan in there to distribute the heat.
​
Edit: Just wanted to add that I've also used small space heaters and even a hair dryer in the past with good results, although those most definitely have a higher possibility of bad things happening.
Mercury vapors are really nice when you combine heat and UVB. I love Mega Ray brand.
The only disadvantage is it is not dimmable, so it is hard to fine tune the heat and to manage you have to move basking spot up or lamp down.
Myself I use T5 HO bulbs like this for UVB
An lensed flood halogen from Home Depot for heat. Halogens are dimmable and nice. With automation project I am doing now I plan to put them on dimming relays and fully automate day/night cycle.
Is this also considered a coil / spiral bulb or is this a good substitute? [Zoo Med Reptisun 10.0 Uvb Mini Compact Fluorescent ]
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015HU2HF8/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_5CJTCbFCMRWGJ)
Im in a college dorm with limited space, so here's my set up for my D. Capensis and VFT.
Clamp light
Light bulb
It's been working for me so far. I turn it on when I wake up and turn it off when the sun goes down. (Or if I wake up three hours after the sun goes up, I'll turn it off 3 hours after the sun goes down). My VFT went dormant as planned and my sundew is healthy. I have not been feeding them anything else yet.
Not sure how expensive the one above is, but something like this generally works pretty well. You can have it sit on top of the mesh. You can find them at Home Depot or a hardware store if you don't want to order from online.
Recipe:
Shake all ingredients with ice, strain into a rocks glass filled with crushed ice. Garnish with freshly grated nutmeg.
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Light box was constructed using .25" PVC pipes and appropriate joints to create a basic box, then I stretched some plain white tshirt knit fitted sheets over it for diffusion. I'm currently using 3 basic white philips hue LED in clamp/scoop light housings.
They are pretty handy because you can adjust their dim level via your phone and then save scenes.
The set dressing is just a yard of tapa print fabric draped over a sheet of foam core and some fake leaves. Here's a pic I took when I was testing it out with a mug. It looks less impressive than the final product.
If you have access to a power outlet, a simple clamp lamp can work.
Yeah, it's clipped on to an old mop handle which I cut down to size and stuck in a box full of stones to hold it steady. I'm getting something along the same lines as this.
You could always grab some clamp lamps amd stick em on the side of your tank. You could spray pain them too if you want them to match your decor. You can even put grow lights in if you want to upgrade to a more heavily planted tank.
This is gonna be your absolutely cheapest option.
My recommendation is to buy a cheap reflector lamp and a high wattage grow bulb. If you want to go nicer (and more expensive) spring for a nice T5 bulb setup. As a first step, I would just do something like what I post below. It is effective and cheap. I really recommend not getting one of those tiny LED ones because they usually are super low power and help your plant less for your money.
https://www.amazon.com/Full-Spectrum-Hydroponic-Light-60W32/dp/B01L0GV2ZY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493998601&sr=8-3&keywords=grow+bulbs+60+watt
https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Deluxe-HIWKLTCLAMPLIGHTM-8-5-Inch-Reflector/dp/B01E9IY6US/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1493998736&sr=1-2&keywords=reflector+lamp
If you are really trying to keep the budget tight this is what I use
https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Deluxe-HIWKLTCLAMPLIGHTM-8-5-Inch-Reflector/dp/B01E9IY6US/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1502802377&sr=1-4&keywords=utility+lamp
Add a true white bulb and either bounce it off the wall or cover it with nylon material to diffuse the light a bit and you are good to go.
I’m pretty sure you can use any 100W LED bulb!
With maybe one of these
I used to do professional lighting, and here is my best trick in a pinch:
Also heat sources should be regulated, just thought of that. I use these: Century Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Controller for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing, 40-108°F https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CmqhDb9DC0KDT
If it's a heat mat, place the probe on the glass above the mat. If it is a heat light, place the probe inside their warm side hide. You can also use a light dimmer for lamps.
Sounds like my ball python when I got her. :) She was pretty tame from day one, I love her <3
https://www.amazon.com/Century-Thermostat-Controller-Germination-40-108%C3%82%C2%B0F/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=heat+mat&amp;qid=1567709698&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyT1RKTEFWSk1MUkdYJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDU3ODgwMUlJSzBRSklUMDlRRiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODg2NjE0MTE0OFdDOU9XQklROSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
I suggest at least this ^ for your heat pad. You have to be very careful with them. Mine would get up to 120 degrees if it wasnt regulated with this. You set the temp for their warm side and put one of their hides over it. My girl doesnt go in there often cuz she prefers her cool hide. I keep warm side at 90 cuz she wouldnt even go in there with anything warmer. Her gradient is 79 to 90. Ambient temp is usually around 80. She has eaten every week I've had her (2 months).
It is possible. Reading through the comments in this post, I see that you just got your noodle. Congrats!
But that as well will play a huge factor. Little friend is stressed out. Just give it a solid week of no touching and no feeding attempts. After that give it another go.
As for the temp. I’ll give you some basic:
-Coconut shedding substrate (replace after a week so that your snake gets comfortable to its surroundings first)
-Thermometers/hygrometer at the bottom of the tank
-Plug the headpad into a thermostat
After your new friend has eaten;
-moisten the new coconut substrate by mixing water into it and mixing it all up with your hands. Leaving dry substrate under its hides. This will be great to help with humidity, which you will see if your house humidity isn’t high, will be a struggle.
My house has an average of about 44, so I have to mix my substrate about every 2 days. I’m going to be looking into other options down the road, as I have done all the home remedies and mixing is my best option.
Hope all of this helps!
Short answer: yes temp and humidity will affect your snakes feeding 🐍 🐁 lol
Edit: replace substrate after a week from today I meant. Not once a week.
Edit two: a chill mod in here once told me to cover the top screen with tin foil while mixing the substrate. Best tip ever. Plus if you do it right, it looks nifty. Just make holes for your heat lamp and ventilation. It’ll take some time to perfect. But not long. Kay I’m done now
They require 88f minimum on the cool side, ideally 90f for proper digestion. Since they're cold blooded they rely on the temperatures in their environment to do basic metabolic functions such as digest. So I'd recommend grabbing an under tank heater, a thermostat to control it, and maybe a decent little thermometer, sounds like you're using a wall dial that can be tough to read and are always inaccurate. Getting the temperatures right is really important for keeping reptiles, otherwise they can get sick or worse quickly, but luckily once you have those temps set they're easy to maintain. Woudl recommend just double checking the link under "basic care" down on our side bar, it can fill you in on a bit more like the calcium supplements they need as well. If you have any questions let me know! I'm going to add a few links to the items I'm mentioning
https://www.reddit.com/r/leopardgeckos/comments/9qig1m/gecko_belly_ive_had_my_gecko_about_two_weeks_and/
https://www.amazon.com/Century-T7-FBA_BNQ-T7H-Thermostat-Germination/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540265142&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=reptile+thermostat&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Digital-Terrarium-Thermometer/dp/B000MD3MFA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540265132&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=reptile+thermometer
You might look into heating mats or submersible heaters commonly used for reptile terrariums and aquariums. The submersible ones need to be in water, but that could even just be a jar of water or a small tray, at the low wattage being discussed.
This heating pad controller for reptile enclosures (not endorsed, it was just the first one to come up for my search) has a temp sensor and thermostat: https://www.amazon.com/Century-Thermostat-Controller-Germination-40-108°F/dp/B01I15S6OM/
At low wattages, you can even use something like a 40W incandescent bulb on a dimmer switch.
For mini-fridge size enclosure, even 40W will get things very hot - I think even 5-10W, with a thermostat, will get you a lot of heat in an enclosed space.
Century Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Controller for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing, 40-108°F https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-j6ZCbDTX6S1R
Oh that’s what I meant, I have this one on its way
that's what thermostats are for! you can get one here for a decent price. and here's how to set it up. (-:
Most people recommend ball pythons, cornsnakes and kingsnakes (and those all are good choices), however it's ultimately up to you! For example, I got a red tail boa constrictor as my first snake and I've only seen one person recommend them as beginner snakes. And honestly, I was glad I got my boa, he's such a sweetheart and his care is very similar to a ball pythons, just on a bigger scale! Plus he's a reptilian garbage disposal, so I don't have to worry about him skipping meals.
I've also seen breeders recommend ratsnakes and gopher/bullsnakes because their husbandry is very easy and they're typically very good eaters. While they're known to be a little temperamental, regular handling will calm them down pretty quickly. I've also seen Kenyan sand boas and children's pythons reccomended, plus they usually don't get too big, and all the snakes I've mentioned come in various morphs so it would be fairly easy to find one thats to your liking!
Snake Discovery, Clint's Reptiles and Josser's Jungle are a very good start! They upload educational videos and they're extremely helpful with information and helping you decide what snake is good for you.
As for getting the actual snake, never buy from large chain pet stores. Always try to get them from a reliable breeder, and the best way to do that is reptile expos! You'll be able to find a bunch of different morphs of various species and you can get supplies and food for pretty cheap.
Another thing to keep in mind is the lifespan and the supplies they need. Bigger snakes need bigger terrariums which cost more, need bigger meals, etc. You will also need a heat mat or heat tape that's connected to a thermostat regardless of species. snakes are kinda dumb and will continue to sit on a warm spot even if it burns them, so thermostats are a must! I use this thermostat for all 3 of my snakes and it works great!
And don't forget to do lot's of research! Look into the snake species itself, it's temperature and humidity requirements, the tank/tub size, and whether or not there are any breeders or expos nearby! Anyway, I hope this helped in some way, and good luck!!
You could try giving him a bath! That might help. Also please avoid lights. They can eventually hurt your baby’s eyes! Only use heating pads. The pinned post on this sub goes into detail about thermostats, (https://www.amazon.com/Century-Thermostat-Controller-Germination-40-108°F/dp/B01I15S6OM this is the one I use) and you need one to regulate the temperature your heat pad gets to so your Leo doesn’t get too hot or cold.
(the pinned post is full of info and absolutely everything you’ll need to know/purchase to give your guy a happy and healthy life 😊)
Edit if you knew all of this already I’m super not trying to sound condescending, just trying to throw out some tips!!
The heat mat is preferred, since leopard geckos absorb heat for digestion thru their tummies only. For all my tanks i use the zoo med reptitherm heat pads. You will want one that takes up between 1/4 and 1/3 of the bottom of the tank. I hook all mine up to one of these... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_s9TUCb1WZ3HE7 i suggest also buying the heat pad off amazon as well, you will pay AT LEAST double if you buy at a brick and mortar store. As for the liner i just go to walmart and buy my liner there in the kitchen section.
The nice folks at this reptile shop made the heat wrap. They installed the connectors for an extra buck. My wrap is 12 inches wide and 4 feet long. Here is a link. https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/thg-heat-tape-3.html
I have it plugged into a temp controller. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I15S6OM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Thank you for responding! I really want to know what I can do to help my snake, as I've been worried something is wrong..... I made a list with the exact things that I have bought!
I have this terrarium
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008N9LRCK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and this heating mat on one half (covers around 40% of the tank)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X8WLYD8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
with this thermometer that controls the heat (max is 93 F) and cool side is 75-80
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I15S6OM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and i made a humidity box (as shown by Youtube account SnakeEncounters) with this moss that I spray to make humid- I have seen my snake in there twice now, she likes to sleep there for a couple hours and leave.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CX5QB82/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and I use this hide (one on cool side, one on warm side)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MVKJ3B1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and this bedding
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009KJ0A2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and I use these vines to make the enclosure feel more covered and less "open"
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009YEB70/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
i'd say too cold. you can also get an inexpensive seed mat for about $13 USD & Temp controller For $19 to help keep the heat up. Cooling require a fridge/mini fridge (withoutf freezer) and a cooling controller which costs a lot more.
I tend to ferment in 2 places. 1. my laundry room in the winter (because it's usually cold due to dryer vent / begin on exterior wall), and 2. My bathroom in the summer which has AC and is generally kept cool.
That being said.. As other have mentioned, warm yeast make off flavors, cold yeast just stop working and may go dormant. You're better off going cold and re-pitching / warming up than getting bad flavor where you toss your product because it's not good.
Thanks for the suggestion. I just ordered these since I do use ceramic sockets.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075XJXPGC
Since you asked your mom I'm assuming you're younger. I highly recommend an older beardie as they are so much cheaper to take care of. My 5 month old eats around $25 - $50 of bugs a week. I try to cycle through bugs so the cost depends on if I'm giving him BSFL (cheaper) or dubia roaches.
Adults only need bugs 2x a week and the rest of the week you just feed them veggies like collard greens and butternut squash. Which isn't only cheap but you can eat them too!
The bearded dragon kits in pet stores suck. Don't use night light lamps. Use a ceramic heater if you're house drops below 65F at night. There are also fairly cheap temperature controllers that will turn the heater on and off at night to keep the tank from getting too warm or two cold at night.
Don't get the fixture for the UVB bulb at a pet store. They're a ton cheaper at hardware stores.
I'm currently using a basking bulb from a pet store, but spot lights from a hardware store will also work for a cheaper price.
Get a bigger tank than the minimum requirement. If you end up with a beardie that likes to explore it can become stressed being cooped up in a tank that it finds too small.
These are what I use for my recommendations above:
Temperature Controller for ceramic heater
Ceramic Heater
UVB Bulb
UVB Bulb Fixture
Here's u/ataraxia's classic link dump I found on a other post. Although the informstion is written for bps (most common snake people have trouble with it seems- mostly due to the humedity) but the suggestions could definitely help you for the humedity aspect needed for your boa.
You should definitely read it through.
i'm going to dump a bunch of helpful links on you. the first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions.
glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
With a temperature controller and a heat source of some kind, you can easily get a chest freezer into the 70s.
I recommend one of these. I use the 100w one and don't have a complaint.
http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Cable-Watts/dp/B0002DIWMS/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1415229024&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=zoomed+heat+cable
I believe this is the one I use, but it would need to be put on a thermostat to make sure it doesn't overheat. I have mine under the "warm" side of the tank with a hide over it so they can feel secure and warm their bellies. I use paper towels on top. Then then cool side is where I have the humid hide for shedding assistance :)
Aw, poor baby! She is very lucky to have a caring home! Unfortunately not all PetSmarts are created equal and it sounds like you guys had a run in with a bad one :( I'm very glad they gave her to you so you could get her back on her little feet! I have a few Cresties that used to love love love crickets and now turn their noses up at them, so sometimes their tastes do change as they age. Have you tried Dubia or Black Soldier Fly Larve ("Calciworms")?
I have one of these http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Cable-Watts/dp/B0002DIWMS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422038811&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=reptile+heater+cable wrapped around the inside of my chest freezer. It could easily hit 100F in my 7 cf freezer. If you want higher temps, go for more wattage. Your fridge/freezer will be fine.
https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Cable-39-Feet/dp/B0002DIWTG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495749709&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=Repti+cable
It's amazing, and as far as placement I just have it randomly placed on the floor of the freezer and it's fine. I plan to tape it to the walls with electrical tape eventually.
I have this which I used to use with my rats. It's sort of medium-warm, nothing that ever gets too hot. But it's warm enough that it's only comfortable if you put fleece cover on it. The mat and about 2ft of cord are really chew-safe.
I'd also look into getting supplements for your bun...just cause she's older the cold may make her joints ache. Oxbow sells some, I've seen them at pet stores. They are little timothy treats that have supplements for age, health, etc.
What do you feed her currently? You could try giving her a bit of alfalfa to gain weight. That way she will have some built-in insulation :)
i have one of those HF 2 stage pumps hooked up to a diy chamber made from a steel pot and acrylic lid heated by this http://www.amazon.com/Heated-Resting-Small-Animals-Inches/dp/B000NVC7DO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1382821961&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=bunny+heat+mat which keeps a nice temp when insulated
This is the problem hedgie I posted about a few days ago. I bought a new, larger enclosure for him and moved him into today. He was a bit grumpy during the move as I had to wake him up for it, but he's loving the cage so far it seems. The blue "ball" at the bottom of the cage is his hide...which he sleeps under. Underneath it is a pet safe Heating Pad to help regulate temperature in that hiding spot. It's designed for small animals so it only gets up to about 100 F or so (just over human body temp) and is under his bedding to keep him directly off of it. It's been enough to keep him warm in his previous enclosure which is nice. The cage is an Amazon Basics Small Animal Cage, Large which is a bit bigger than the previous enclosure. I've got to clean up his wheel and get it mounted for him, but after that he should be more comfortable than he was before. Hopefully this helps his attitude.
This is the one I got and it's pretty nice.
$5 and small size make for quite a nice benefit. I am actually looking at heating elements right now and the 'official' product for homebrewing is $50 (on sale for $30 some places). It's a 25 Watt, 110v heating pad effectively. I got to looking for other heating pads (I like pads as they are low profile) starting with those relating to 3d printing (too powerful), Plant Heaters (too weak), Reptile Heaters (can work!) and personal heaters (Too powerful):
There are likely others too but looks like a 1 fermenter pad is going to be $20-30 and mostly heat the item above. Heating the air in a fementer is likely the more cost efficient solution even if it takes more space than pads. Edit In relation to heating multiple fermenters in a space. A heating pad can work in a single fermenter mini-fridge if there is a flat surface to set your fermenter on. /edit *
I use ZooMed Reptile Heat Cable
Keeps my chamber within range with no issue.
Use heat cables or mats on one side of their enclosure so as to make a hot/cool zones for them to regulate body temperature.
https://www.amazon.ca/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Cable-Meters/dp/B001OVBEEK
Something like this, just make sure it doesn't get too hot, as this can kill your critters.
I recommend a heating cable. Just place it under the old tube, but make sure it is only a single strand because when the cable is close together it gets pretty hot.
Dude, get a STC1000 Temperature Controller eire it up and get a Heat Cable I set it to say 60 f and forget about it. All for about $30 and if your not good with electronics get a Inkbird Temperature Controller. Put the cider someplace cool and that's it oh and get a mini fridge. And if it's just a 1 gallon batch I got this crock pot plugged into my stc 1000.
I use this heat cable in mine. I have it running on the roof and in a zig zag pattern on the front of the chamber.
You can switch one light bulb from light emitting one to a ceramic heating bulb which only provides heat without any visible light. Keep in mind those get hot quite a bit so you need to have ceramic mount for it inside the lamp. Best would be to just get "lap" that's made for such purpose.
bulb
light
Embedding links: I've got this Zilla thermostat that works very well, along with this dome and I believe I've used this brand of CHE. Hope that helps get you started!
I don't know what kind of cage you have her in, but I ordered one of these dome lamps to sit on the top of the cage with a 100-150 watt bulb and have it hooked up to a temp controller. It works pretty well for what I have set up. I have it set on one side of the cage so he can adjust when he feels like it.
I have two semi aquatic eastern painted turtles who reside in NE Ohio as well! But I like turts of all walks of life so that’s why I’m here hehehe. I also bring potentially helpful information! The light clamps can be rather finicky and it can be difficult to get the light pointed directly down using them. Luckily, ExoTerra sells a great light bracket that can be used with most any light! And allows for you too adjust the height! You can just tie the cord in a knot around the top bar if you don’t have the hanging hook on your lamp, I can send a picture of mine if you have any trouble! They are designed for attaching to a aquariums but could probably attach to the side of his box, and if not, it’s nothing a drill bit and some wood screws couldn’t fix! Good luck! 😃
Exo Terra Lamp Holder Bracket for Reptiles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007D1BUJY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_9lNbvb1DE3298
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007D1BUJY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_9lNbvb1DE3298
I have a few of these on our tank:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007D1BUJY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have read that these ceramic heat lamps work well too with a temperature controller. Has anyone had experience using them?
BYB - 150W 110V Ceramic Infrared Heat Emitter Brooder Coop Pet Infrared Lamp Bulb, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HFNZ59Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GW0JAbQAFR4F7
Zilla Premium Reflector Dome, Black 5.5" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TZ1XH0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RZ0JAbQSB8WYF
Edit - reread the post, this probably doesn’t make sense to use without a chamber... but I think it’s supposed to be a good cheap option if you do get a fermentation chamber.
Maybe I'm not quite following, but wouldn't you use something like this bulb:
https://www.amazon.com/BYB-Ceramic-Infrared-Emitter-Brooder/dp/B00HFNZ59Q
plugged into this to secure it:
https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Deluxe-Listed-Aluminum-Reflector/dp/B01E9IY6US
with one of the wires cut and running through this to switch it on and off:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E0NTPP4
This is what I did. Also, these work great and don't produce light if you have glass fermentors and are worried about "light struck" off flavors (but make sure your base can handle 150W): https://www.amazon.com/BYB-Ceramic-Infrared-Emitter-Brooder/dp/B00HFNZ59Q
Then I put a small computer fan in in the chest freezer to circulate air and create a breeze against the fermenter to force convective heat transfer.
&#x200B;
You can buy or make one on the cheap, so why not? I used one of these with one of these that I wired up. I've also experimented with just using a small space heater, but I'm not sure how safe that is. It also tended to put out way more heat than I needed.
Zilla Reptile Terrarium Covers... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QFQ30K?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Exo Terra Repti-Glo 5.0 Compact... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00101JI2Y?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
BYB - 150W 110V Ceramic Infrared... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HFNZ59Q?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
REPTIZOO Dual Lamp Fixture for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CWKXYPP?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
MUST Swap the UVB bulb every 6 months.
I have a heat lamp in my ferm chamber (refrigerator) run by a stc1000 controller. I cover to carboys to block the light just in case. If I were to replace the bulb (I stole it from the chicken coop) I would use a ceramic heat bulb. Like This one maybe.
So I'm a first-time grower, ambient temperatures are currently in the 50s, and what I'm (about to be) doing is somewhat unconventional. I'm offering it as an idea but I'm also hoping to get some critical input. Right now I've got grain jars (destined for a monotub) colonizing on my dresser, using a 1500W space heater to keep my entire room around 80F when I'm home. This isn't my long-term plan, though.
I was considering a heat pad, controlled by a thermostat, but I was concerned about overheating the bottom of the substrate. For all I know, these fears may be completely unfounded, so shroomers feel free to call me an idiot. Anyway, here's what I'm doing instead. (Same idea for heating both my spawn jars and my mono.)
I purchased the following:
The idea is to have a 150W ceramic heat emitter suspended above the tub (or tray of jars). Direct radiant heat is apparently not good for our friends, and I don't know how well a transparent polypropylene lid will absorb the IR, so I'll toss some cotton garments on top of the lid to absorb the heat and conduct it gently into the tub. The thermostat's sensor will be embedded in the substrate, and I'll use temperature strips placed at various points to "calibrate" it.
Given that this will be in a confined closet and the heat will be focused on my grow, I'm hopeful that 150W will be enough, at least to reach a decent fruiting temperature. And I figure this solution will be gentle on the little guys, won't dry the air, and won't pose a fire hazard. But I haven't heard much about people going this route, which leads me to wonder if there's a flaw I've failed to consider...
Edit: MY IDEA SUCKS. In the close confines of my closet, the 150W bulb didn't take long to start melting the lid of my tub. I went and bought a $40 radiator at Home Depot like a normal human being.
definitely want to leave the heat lamp on at all times. is it light emitting, and you're worried about the light?
this is what i've been using with success (the lamp it fits in must have a porcelain socket or it will burn itself out prematurely): BYB - 150W 110V Ceramic Infrared Heat Emitter
I buy this
Edit: They lasted over a year now, bought in 2015. They also have 150 W which I've bought and am very happy with.
https://www.amazon.com/BYB-Ceramic-Infrared-Emitter-Brooder/dp/B00IOBZT80/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494345137&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ceramic+heat+bulb
Amazon has them for 11-12 bucks a pop. eg:
https://www.amazon.com/BYB-Ceramic-Infrared-Emitter-Brooder/dp/B00IOBZT80/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498092554&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;keywords=ceramic+heat+emitter&amp;psc=1
I am a bot programmed to automatically provide the following content by /u/_Ataraxia when summoned. Link to the most recent version of this content here
The first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions. Let /u/_Ataraxia know if any of the links don't work.
Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
Ball Python Care Guides
Set-up Recommendations
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https://www.amazon.com/BYB-Ceramic-Infrared-Emitter-Brooder/dp/B00IOBZT80/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503263339&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=ceramic+heat+emitter
What you would want is something like this Whynter FM-85G 85-Quart DC Freezer There are other options and you might be able to get it local but this is an example.
By going to DC power you reduce the loss from changing from DC to AC. If you keep everything on DC you will not need to have an inverter but if you have the panels far away from the batteries you might want to go with a 24v system and step the voltage down after the batteries to 12v. If the batteries are close to the freezer the wires can be kept a reasonable size.
I would go with some GC-2 batteries check for them at sams club or similar. They are 6v so they will need to be paired for 12v. If you want to go for long term batteries look into Iron Edison. With any battery setup you will want to be able to control the temp some since it is outside, protect from sun and heat by covering it and adding a small DC fan, in the winter running a incandescent light or a reptile heater. Doing that will help keep things easy on the batteries.
In the past I've bought Solar-Glos from Exo Terra & have been decently satisfied with them. They last around 6-8 months before burning out & needing to be replaced.
I decided to give Mega-Ray a shot this last time & both bulbs I purchased back in April 2017 are still going strong.
Depending on how much you want to spend, I would recommend either of those brands.
I should also note, I take my little guys outside daily for real UV sunlight for a minimum of an hour a day, so I'm not as worried about a bulb that's losing it UV strength (A lot of people recommend replacing UVB bulbs every 6 months regardless of them burning out or not)
Good luck with your new lil baby!
Also need a basking bulb, https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Repti-Basking-threaded/dp/B00V90F5FK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=basking+bulb+100w&amp;qid=1564299088&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=basking+bulb&amp;sr=8-3
We use these for basking:
https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Repti-Basking-threaded/dp/B00V90F5FK/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2HMA20V51JSO7&keywords=basking+light+bearded+dragon&qid=1574971915&sprefix=basking+light%2Caps%2C184&sr=8-4
UVB:
https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiSun-Fluorescent-24-Inch/dp/B0009YJ3BE/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1JEG20RLZB6LY&keywords=reptisun%2B10.0%2Buvb%2Bbulb&qid=1574971949&sprefix=reptisun%2Caps%2C152&sr=8-2&th=1
Like u/Happyfeet65 said, no lights at night, especially not the red ones. Use a ceramic heat disk if needed.
https://www.amazon.com/REPTIZOO-Reptile-Ceramic-Infrared-Terrarium/dp/B07CWNWC5T/ref=sr_1_27?crid=3G90Z8ERI0EKR&keywords=ceramic%2Bheat%2Bemitter&qid=1574972093&sprefix=ceramic%2Bhea%2Caps%2C184&sr=8-27&th=1
You can get any of these at Petco/Petsmart.
Zoo Med Reptisun is a good brand, mine has been lasting over 4 months now.
Thanks, bulbs kept on blowing out so I got this instead:
Reptile Heat Lamp Bulb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017RCQ4JO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_chF8Bb939GA6C
That's on the warm side of the tank, on the cool side she has a different bulb. Can't remember the specs, got it at Wal Mart. No live food lately mainly cuz of my concern of her eye. Been giving baths and applying eye ointment as often as I can, as well as providing veggies and vitamins.
As merlyn said, you'll want a CHE instead. They last longer than lightbulbs anyway, which is a bonus! I use this CHE & lamp, in case a link would be helpful:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AQCXM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017RCQ4JO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
i use this one i got it on sale for $159 several months back and use it with an inkbird plug in controller.
[i use one of these] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017RCQ4JO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) wired up to a simple 3 prong plug in a .50c light fixture screwed to a piece of 2x4. it plugs into the heat side and works great.
if you think you are only going to be heating, you can leave just the heat plugged in and it will keep most of the condensation from happening inside your freezer.
i use carboy straps to lift mine in and out of the deep freeze.
Fermentation control has by far been the greatest improvement to my beer besides water chemistry. its a solid investment. it also allows me to Cold crash, getting more beer from my fermenter, as well as do things like lagers and saisons
Could I get something like this and then use one of those light bulbs I linked in a below comment? They're designed to reflect light so that should help with the CFL issue right?
https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Deluxe-Listed-Aluminum-Reflector/dp/B01E9IY6US/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519680793&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=heat+lamp+holder
I love your triforces! Great choice of shape to complement your subject.
And I feel you re: not having enough hands! Flexible work lights can be a good alternative to a handheld flashlight. Flexible tripods are more versatile; you can screw or tape a lot of things onto them, if you have lights you already use. If you're using light bulbs, clamp work lights are also an option.
https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Deluxe-Aluminum-Reflector-Included/dp/B01E9IY6US
One of these with a 18-23 watt 6500K+ CFL like this will work wonders. I ran that setup on a 3.5 gallon and had tremendous plant growth
You may be able to find cheaper clamp lights, but these are the ones I bought
Since I currently only have a small collection I dont feel the need for a big T5 tube installation and these type of reflectors from amazon are heavily used and recommended on this sub I thought they would be perfect. But its almost impossible to find similar ones in europe for acceptable prices.
I have found one similar in my local pet shop but then its not a clamp light but hanging on a cord from the roof type. And it was rebranded as a reptile lamp for terrariums and had the premium price of 55 usd :O and compared to the 8 usd from amazon or even the 5 usd from walmart it seems like an awful idea.
Appreciate any help!
Like one of those industrial, put anywhere, compact clamp like a hinged clamp? NOT screw on?
Like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9IY6US/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OvtIDbG22EAKK
If you want to get really cheap, try getting a clamp light or two from Lowes/Home Depot and get some soft bulbs (maybe get bulbs that are daylight balanced so you can mix it with some window light). Then bounce those off the ceiling or walls.
For some closer bounce, try bouncing off of a white tshirt or white sheet, or even through a frosted shower curtain (something I do for interviews).
With a constant source like this, you can see the issues you have with shadows and easily figure out how to get the look you want.
I had a heated basement in my rig when I camped in cold weather, but still added sewer tape https://smile.amazon.com/HEATIT-40-feet-Heating-Built-Thermostat/dp/B06XG17SZC/ref=sr_1_1 to keep the water feed warm, and added a work light https://smile.amazon.com/Simple-Deluxe-Aluminum-Reflector-Included/dp/B01E9IY6US/ref=sr_1_8 on an extension cord to the grey/black water tank cabinet and that worked to keep things from freezing up.
This is the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/TaoTronics-Spectrum-Hydroponics-Organic-Wavelengths/dp/B01HPIPM70/
also is great for starting my garden vegetable seedings indoors. I've had mine for 3 yrs now.
You'll need one of these reflector adaptors for it if you don't have something you can put the light bulb in: https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Deluxe-Aluminum-Reflector-Included/dp/B01E9IY6US/
but don't bother buying one of those online. The grow light is very large so they stick out oddly rendering the reflector-part useless, you only need it for the ability to house a weird shaped light bulb and clamp feature. Once the bulb arrives you should take it to a store that sells hardware to find one that works. They're quite cheap in person, like $5 at Walmart when I got mine.
Grow lights in general will be kinda pricy because what you are looking for is an efficient LED, something that doesn't get hot and burn your plants, and something with the right amount of light spectrum colors to provide consistent growth regulations as if the plant was outside in real sunlight. Some companies cut corners so even if you don't buy the one I got, look out for those specific features.
That could work, but I was thinking something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9IY6US/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N.ipzbWW87AP9 like a work lamp, super cheap, but not aesthetically pleasing
If you're only covering a few square-inches of space, you should just get a tiny LED Grow Light.
By my calculations, a Feit br30 grow light should be sufficient for an 8-inch pot. You gotta make sure that pot gets all the light, you need to put the grow light surprisingly close.
https://www.amazon.com/Feit-Electric-Spectrum-Equivalent-Non-Dimmable/dp/B06ZZDH21B/
Plus a simple clamp: https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Deluxe-Aluminum-Reflector-Included/dp/B01E9IY6US
That's all I use. Good enough for my small herbs. Again, one grow-light per 8-inch pot, these smaller lights don't effectively cover much area at all.
Feit Electric comes with good documentation: https://www.feit.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/PAR38_GROW_LED_SpecSheet.pdf
As a beginner, I did not want to commit to a big expensive unit that I would have to mount or build a rack for. I had limited room and no interest in using tools. I bought the Sansi bulb because it was a cheap way to get started and I felt that it would be a fairly flexible solution. I started with one bulb for a few mason jar kratky plants on a small section of a shelf. As I added more plants and opened up more shelf space, I added 2 more bulbs and can now cover most of a 4' shelf.
I saw some of Jeb Gardener's Kratky videos where he used a sansi bulb with a clamp lamp, and it seemed to work nicely, so that is what I did. I figured that I'd have the flexibility to place the lamp as high or low to the plant as needed, and easily be able to move stuff around.
The clamp lamps are not the easiest things to clamp securely and point where you want them to go. But I made it work. If you wind up using something like that, you should remove the reflector or buy a lamp without a reflector as they should not be used with the Sansi bulbs.
I think they are a waste of money myself. i use these
I have a highlight from a while back where i used some cloth to make some soft boxes.
would it be better to just get different lighting frame and use 4 of these and These?
Or do you think the light would be disperce enough without the tubes?
I didn't know about them either until I saw them on Twitter around Twitchcon 2017 time. I hunted down their booth and managed to snag one before I left :)
As for lighting, I use a cheap clamp reflector light with a soft-white LED Bulb reflected off my wall. It's a little easier and a fair bit cheaper than finding a proper softbox so I don't get washed out from the light.
>It gets direct sun from like 3-6pm, so it has some natural light.
I notice it's developing a lemon rather nicely, so if you've had that plant in the location for half a year or more, then it seems pretty happy. However, if it's a new plant (or was newly moved to that location), additional supplemental lighting could be beneficial.
>I was looking at like 150-300 W bulbs because I had no clue. I was also looking at the blurple ones because I also had no clue
150W Bulbs are definitely overkill unless they're incandescent, and most of the energy from those bulbs radiates out as heat. I personally prefer full spectrum LEDs because I don't want the inside of my house to look like a nightclub (blurple is hard on the eyes) and LEDs are more energy efficient, outputting more light and less heat.
>Does the housing you put the bulb in matter? Do you just use one of those cheap metal ones from Home Depot?
Keep in mind that since you already have a red/blue spectrum grow lamp in that picture in addition to the window, so if you want more supplemental lighting, you probably don't need to go the full 36W that I linked earlier. The 24W version is probably sufficient. It's a pretty big bulb, so just make sure you find a housing that is big enough to fit it and is compatible both with its E26 Socket and its Wattage. I know some folks who use this sort of thing with it, and home depot probably offers something similar.
Fluorescent tubes sure have the ideal shape. It's sad they don't have the ideal light output.
I can't really say what intensity is achieved at X distance, but it will be all your plants care about.
The best way to find out is to measure the light intensity with a LUX meter and regulate height of pots and distance to lamp, based on what values you are getting. Peppers will probably like 2-4x intensity compared to what your micros will prefer and that can be regulated by distance. If it's difficult to reach the intensity your pepper(s) will need to thrive, you can always boost with a 9-14w LED household bulb wherever a little extra light is needed. For example, a cheap and simple clamp light, together with a 1500lm LED bulb will provide a good intensity over a 1'x1' area. Those two examples were picked randomly. You can choose whatever brand and kelvin you like.
I have a.... Let's say experimental jar going on with hitch hiker snails and such, and I just have one if those cheapo clamp lights on it, with a 6500k led bulb from Amazon
https://imgur.com/a/76tpbgQ
Leson 100 Watt Equivalent A19 LED Light Bulb Standard E26/E27 Base 13W Energy Saving, Daylight Cool White 6500k (6 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FYGDX3A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Fv9dBbDE0D3FH
Simple Deluxe Clamp Lamp Light with 8.5 Inch Aluminum Reflector up to 60 Watt E26 (no Bulb Included) 6 Feet Cord UL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9IY6US/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7v9dBbN84HXNF
These guys with Dimmer Cords will do the trick.
I do not dose anything other than providing root tabs in the substrate.
Lights:
Beamswork light
Clamp Light
Grow bulb
The heat pad should be under the tank on the bottom to give some belly heat. Leopard geckos digest their food using belly heat so it would really help him out. The heat pad should cover about 1/3 of the bottom of the cage as well. Make sure to have a thermostat with the heat mat as well so it doesn't over heat your gecko! The one I use is this one and it's been working fantastic with no issues. I have the probe located in the spot where the gecko would lay down and when the temperature reaches the degree I've set it to, it'll shut off the mat allowing it to cool down and then it'll heat back up.
This is the thermostat I have: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TbOBDbQPSF1RG
I saw it recommended on a thread here, so hopefully it’s okay! If need be I’ll go up to something fancier, but most people seem to use something along those lines?
Purchase a thermostat to regulate the temperature of the heat mat. I prefer this style but there are lots of different ones out there. In fact I recommend getting one anyway as they are an important safety feature to prevent temperature spikes.
You’ll have to figure that out once it’s set up. It would work well on the hot side but if the cool side is too cold with nothing over there I would center it. That’s the thing I need to tweak but haven’t yet since I’m going to have to remake my custom lid. Lamp currently on the hot side but my cold side is like 5 degrees too cold. Not a huge deal but something I’ll need to get around to. Like I said trial and error id just buy all your heating elements and then spend a day messing around with temp and placement. Also this is a good cheap controller for the heat mat if you don’t have one yet.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_r3e2CbAWWY9ZY
Just make sure the temp probe goes between the mat and glass
Century Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Controller for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing, 40-108°F https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qPpvCb49PSBWM
This is the thermostat we use to control the heat, we have it connected to a regular ceramic heat lamp
If it's that insanely cold inside I would use a 100w CHE in conjunction with 11 inch heat tape spanning the length of the bottom of the tank, possibly two strips side by side, controlled by a reptile thermostat with a temperature probe taped down in the tank directly over the heat tape on the bottom. That way you have a safe sustained temperature throughout the tank and the CHE can be used by your bearded dragon to effectively thermoregulate himself without needing to worry about cold spots.
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Heat Tape
Heat Tape Power Cord
Thermostat for the Heat Tape
We use this one for the heat pad, you set it at the temp you want and it turns the heating pad on and off depending on if it gets too cool or too hot.
And then we use this one just to monitor visually the temp and humidity of the environment. So far we’ve had no issues and they’re both fairly inexpensive.
Good luck with everything!
If your in the US i recommend buying this https://www.amazon.com/Century-Thermostat-Controller-Germination-40-108%C3%82%C2%B0F/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=jumpstart+thermostat+reptile&amp;qid=1570753836&amp;sprefix=jumpstart+&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExMktDVDVZRk9GUDcmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA5ODc4MjcyUlpSWDNFTzQyUFFCJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA3MjMyOTIyMkdLQlpNSllCTEZRJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= and plugging in the under tank heater and setting it to 90-91 so you wont have to worry about the heat. Still always check that the high temp is around the number uou set it to but i notice that sometimes it can slowly get lower than what you set it to but then right back where it needs to be.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_edhYDb7408N40
This is what I use
Will one of these work as a thermostat for a CHE? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xqFXDb0BTJFVP if I put the probe somewhere near the top?
I use this with the standard zoo med or exoterra UTHs on three leopard gecko tanks and two snake tanks and have had good temperature accuracy with it
So I use a ceramic bulb (because I didn't wan't light to mess with the day/night cycle). and I have this automatic thermostat controller which I have set to keep it around 74 in her enclosure. This set up seems to be working well.
Because night time is probably when it's getting cold in your house you'll need a ceramic bulb or another heat bulb meant for nighttime. So the UVB bulb probably isn't worth messing with.
I just installed these inside my printer. So far, so good. I can keep the FEP and buildplate at a steady 75 degrees in a 45 degree garage.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I15S6OM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07573FKSG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I did have to FDM print an adapter to make it all fit. That's in a Mars. Not sure how it would fit in a Photon.
Zilla 11931 8-1/2-Inch Reflector Dome For Up to 150-Watt Bulbs, Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005SRVM2K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eNFxDbWNQT4D5
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXUT5RH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9IO6N0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
These are links to the best heat to use the lightbulb comes with a thermometer and the thermostat connects to the light allowing you to set the temperature. ( If you're just interested in the thermostat it's the last link!)
Throw a space heater in the main compartment, and put one of these in each of your water compartments.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXUT5RH/ref=asc_df_B01MXUT5RH5244094/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;creative=395033&amp;creativeASIN=B01MXUT5RH&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=167136460722&amp;hvpos=1o4&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=13026633904791054401&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=c&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9005140&amp;hvtargid=pla-307994146449
Keeps my stuff well away from danger .
I've been using Eco Earth's coconut substrate with good success for a few years. However, a turtle expert I know doesn't like it because it can be "dirty" and easily ingested, and because it can pack down. She recommends orchid moss, which I'm going to try next. Amazon has a 1lb package of it currently on sale for $13.55. Whatever you use, you'll want to keep it damp.
You can keep your boxie indoors in a container over the winter. You'll need to provide him with 14 hours of light (preferably a UVB lamp) and probably some heat, as they generally do best in temps around 80 degrees. I have lights and heater on timers, so they mimic the outdoors. This is the lamp I use and here's the heating element.
If you decide to put him outside over the winter, make sure he has a safe, predator proof area to dig into of soft earth with plenty leaf cover for insulation. You can let him select the area, then add leaf cover, or you can put a pile of leaves and see if he climbs under. I like to know where mine go down so I can check on them during the winter.
Is it ducksfoot? ;)
I use a ceramic heat lamp (like this, but a lower wattage) to warm seeds during germination, but I double-check the temperature with an IR thermometer.
Mini Fridge + Freezer
Temp Regulator
I bet it will get warmer than 70, if not and you want it warmer..try one of these
https://www.amazon.com/REPTIZOO-Reptile-Ceramic-Infrared-Terrarium/dp/B07CWPF4BG?keywords=ceramic+heater+reptiles&qid=1540602212&sr=8-9&ref=sr_1_9
Camera: canon t6 refurbished $350
audio: rode ntg2, an xlr cable, cheap boom pole
You can get the mic used for about $200, spend another $200 for a tascam dr-60
A 5 in 1 reflector kit from neewer for another $20
A few clamp lights and 3200/5600k bulbs
An okay tripod for now
And a cheap shoulder rig
That all should come out to around $1000 and should definitely be enough to get you started. Some of the stuff is a bit cheaper and you’ll need to replace as you move on and understand your needs better but there’s not much quality equipment to be bought if you need a whole package for around $1000
>There are some good reasons for using incandescents
I agree.
>Also, for certain applications, incandescents are necessary, such as providing ancillary heat to dehumidify an enclosed space.
Not really. If the purpose is making heat, incandescents are actually some of the worst ways to do it because their lifetime is unpredictable and short.
Anyway, I'm not really knocking on people using incandescents per se, but I anecdotally know lots of fox news conservative types and when told that LED can save them lots of money, it's either: (a) fuck those dirty liberals and I'll keep using them to piss those fuckers off or (b) same as (a) but they don't want to come out and say that and so they make up ridiculous/faulty reasoning that isn't believable in the slightest.
I've seen maybe 2-3 applications total where incandescents were the best solution to a lighting problem, and they were fairly esoteric. I've also been told by people that they prefer the color of incandescents, but I've yet to see someone say that actually correctly pick out the LED consistently in a side by side lamp-shade test.
Anyway, I don't really give a shit. If someone wants to be stubborn or has an axe to grind, I'm not going to get in their way. I'd prefer they just be honest about it rather than make up stuff or regurgitate wrong second hand information.
>oops, nobody thought about how those faggoty LEDs wouldn't produce enough heat to melt off snow and ice
I'm an engineer. I assure you that they thought of it. What is more likely is that the way they were testing for it didn't take into account very specific types of precipitation that happen to build up very well in low-heat environments (or they couldn't easily replicate it in a test cell). That kind of build-up, despite what the media reports, was actually very atypical. It happened much less than cases where the standard lights just burned out, but obviously the media doesn't report on burned out traffic lights because everyone was used to that.