Best terrarium substrate according to redditors
We found 25 Reddit comments discussing the best terrarium substrate. We ranked the 5 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 25 Reddit comments discussing the best terrarium substrate. We ranked the 5 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Don't get a sponge. It's a breeding ground for bacteria, and the tarantula can't actually get water from it. They do fine with standing water, I see mine (I'm up to 25 now) drink from their dishes frequently.
Also, the B. albopilosum doesn't need a premade lair. In my experience, they're pretty good at digging out their own
I actually posted this info yesterday, so I'm just going to paste the relevant section right here:
Let's talk equipment:
Get the tarantula keeper's guide and read through it, before you get your spider preferably. It's going to be your bible for the first few months.
Tarantulas don't really have a lot of care requirements, and their equipment list is pretty short. An appropirately sized kritter keeper is usually fine. Not the best, but fine. You'll want a small bowl for standing water so it can keep itself hydrated if it needs to. You'll want some finely shredded coco fiber as a substrate. Finally, you'll defenitely need some 12 inch tongs for feeding.
Feel free to ask any more questions, glad to have you in the hobby!
Picture of the setup
Im using a 20 gallon long glass tank with this surrounding the sides and back, its a perfect fit. A day night timer hooked to a non heated light. I dont use heating that sucks the humidity out of the air by using a heat pad for both hides regulated by thermostats one for each pad. Substrate I use is coconut husk, this one lasted me a whole year and people say it wont mold as easily compared to other non coconut fiber substrates. The tank itself uses a screened sliding locked lid. I cant speak for how to lock down other types of lids for tanks. The screen however I covered most of it with 3 layers of foil followed by tape around the edges of the foil to keep it attached and sealed better to the screen. A hole for the non heated light was made and I used a cut up piece of a zipblock bag along with tape to cover over the hole for humidity reasons. Finally the hides are medium sized from reptile basics, I remember when he could easily fit in the small one, was such a tiny noodle and of course a simple plastic water dish big enough to soak in and aid in humidity.
For times when he is in shed though, I lightly spray down the substrate and sides and back of the tank once a day. I think just spraying the glass walls and keeping that large surface area wet is good enough though.
Other items include thermometer, fake plants, gram scale, and one ball python
Stay away from the desert sand. Soil-type substrate is best for the whole enclosure. Most people use cocofiber.
30x30x30 is a bit big, but if you go with something that size, just be sure to fill it with substrate enough to reduce the height considerably (over half). You don't want a terrestrial tarantula falling more than a few inches.
A lot of people use decorative items for hides, so the skull is probably fine unless it has sharp bits.
Changing the hide and the sound from your stereo are probably minimal stressors. It likely won't impact the lifespan of the spider, but if it gets bald quickly after moving in, it may be time to move the spider (or the stereo). At 3-4 inches, this spider will probably only molt once a year, so it won't outgrow an appropriately sized hide quickly.
At 3-4 inches you should be able to tell the sex of the spider. If the shop doesn't have sex labeled, you should ask about it and/or take some photos of the underside of the spider if possible. We may be able to sex it for you from a photo (although the most reliable way is with a shed exoskeleton).
Definitely pick up The Tarantula Keeper's Guide if you haven't already. It's a solid resource and one you will turn to time and time again.
Edit: added link
First off. Every 2-4 days is crazy. 1 approximately sized meal weekly is all he needs. If he refuses wait a week and try again. The constant food in his face is a source of great stress and will put any BP off food. Secondly. The pet store not having coconut bedding is no excuse. The habitat temps amd humidity should be established before introducing a new animal. I never run out of appropriate bedding. Always keep extra everything stocked! Amazon always has reptichip available
https://www.amazon.com/ReptiChip-Premium-Coconut-Substrate-Amphibians/dp/B0157O1CM8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=reptichip+premium+coconut+substrate&qid=1574989807&sprefix=reptichip&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyVEpCMUZHMDkwNzVZJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTY5MDkwMU1YM0czUFZBSjVPTyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDk3MzA4MjAwMk1PUkxXSThVQSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
Go with the PVC set up. As some one who has used glass set ups and tried to find ways to alter them to make them better for BPs: don't bother. It costs more to make the set up 'right' and then to maintain it, because you will have to maintain it constantly. When I began, I thought I could engineer my way through and turned the tank on it's side, built a door, all kinds of things...and yeah, it worked, made a beautiful glass enclosure and I could see my snake, but it was never consistent enough to not have to check daily, like a PVC should be.
Stay away from glass. It's just not worth it.
Good choices on the reptile basics stuff.
This is the thermometer I use: Acu-Rite Indoor/Outdoor - it also keeps track of humidity.
Stay away from the Zoomed coconut husk stuff and go for ReptiChip - it's less dusty and slightly bigger chunks so it's safer for your BP. Plus that package is big and perfect for several full substrate change outs.
The water dish is not big enough - it's only 3 inches wide. Definitely won't help with humidity, unless you get 2-3 of them and put them around the set up. Get a ceramic dog bowl like this instead. It's big, won't run out quickly, and will let your BP soak if it wants to.
Use the reptibasic hides. They're sturdy and easy to clean. 'Decorative' hides are usually a pain to clean.
I've tried the decorative vine and it's no good; when your BP poops on it, the poop stays stuck and unless you're going to pull it out and sanitize it every time (the leaves are fiber, not plastic), it's just a pain to have.
Lastly, don't even bother with mice for your BP. Just start straight from rats. The sooner your BP is on rats, the easier life will be.
>Is it really so easy as buying a small enclosure, something to burrow into, and some crickets every once in a while?
Absolutely! I have 4 Ts. I make sure they have fresh water at all times and I feed them weekly. You just have to make sure that your enclosure suits the spider that you have. There are two types of set ups: arboreal and terrestrial (trees and ground). An arboreal spider will need about an inch or two of substrate and then a good amount of vertical space with some stuff to climb on. A terrestrial spider will need a set up that is opposite of that. As much ground space as possible with a substrate of at least 3 or 4 inches, and not that much vertical space(if they climb too high and fall, they could rupture the abdomen). For a substrate, always go with something like Eco Earth as it is not only inexpensive, but arguably the most suitable substrate on the market. Make sure the spider has something to hide under, or in. I just go outside and find sticks and bark and such and microwave it to kill off any bacteria. You do not need to pay for fancy hiding logs at the pet store! As for water, a small shallow dish will be suitable. Make sure that fresh water is always available for the T. DO NOT use a sponge in the water! I see many pet stores even making this mistake. It is not necessary, and will be a breeding ground for bacteria and molds.
>When purchasing spiders should I follow the same rules as say, buying a puppy? As in, don't buy from a "mill"?
You'll be fine just buying them online from a reputable source. You'll know exactly what you are getting, and it will be cheaper. The only issue is that shipping can be costly. I've heard a lot of good things about Jamie's Tarantulas and I know she has a $15 flat shipping fee. Mind you, you can only buy from her in the continental US.
>I read "docile nature" but does that mean that a spider could recognize me, or enjoy being socialized with? Or are they just lovely creatures to admire?
Absolutely not! By docile, it means that they are generally well tempered and will tolerate being handled. You should not handle your T often, and many species should just simply not be handled at all! They will certainly not socialize with you or recognize you. Tarantula behavior is all stimulus and response, nothing more. They are fascinating to view, but like I said even with "docile" species, keep handling to a minimum.
As for feeding, crickets. One cricket, once a week is how I do it.
Well, that should give you a pretty good general idea of tarantula care. Of course, you will have to read up on your species, and you should research about molting as well. Please feel free to ask me anything else you would like to know, and I will do my best to give you a sufficient answer.
Good luck on your first T!
For what it's worth, as someone who has received a tarantula as a gift before (hilariously enough, it was a g. pulchra): think about the enclosure too. Pick up a small exoterra breeder box, a bit of coco earth, and a small fake plant or hide (I love getting fake plants at the dollar store to doll up my spider's bins).
Hello everyone,
Earlier this week I got my first snake, which was a female western hognose. Unfortunately, the previous owners seem to have provided lackluster care (here was the tank, bedding etc she came in).
I have since purchased a 40 gallon tank, got new bedding, purchased 2 hides, added a larger heating pad, light lamp, and have a thermometer I'll be installing on the heat lamp...
...but 24 hours after transferring the snake to her new tank, she hadn't shown herself at all.
At first she explored her new, larger surroundings. But then she buried and I didn't see her. Worried, I just found her on the cooler non-lit/non-heated side still not moving much (and generally not happy with my bothering her).
Concerns:
Here is a picture of the new setup. I used this ReptiChip substrate (coconut husk), which I'm a bit anxious about because it specifically mentions pythons and boas, not a hognose. I followed their instructions using water to expand the chips and add some moisture, but the moisture is collecting in the tank (picture at the base here).
When I tried to find her in the substrate, I noticed a small flying insect similar to a gnat. Not sure if this is relevant or this is just something I should watch out for.
Many thanks for all y'alls help. I apologize for my ignorance. In posting this (and quickly purchasing more/better products), I am doing my best to care for the animal.
It's my first grow so I'm not sure if it's the same as pasturization, but I put the bricks in a bucket and poured boiling water in and let it sit for a few hours. And I used this originally https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KV8EUBK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0.7SDbJBRQWE0
but today I bought a 3 pack of this: https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/reptile/reptile-substrate-bedding/zoo-med-eco-earth-compressed-coconut-fiber-expandable-substrate and spawned a tub the same way
I'm not sure but this is the moss I use and its safeMoss
For a 75gallon get one of these (Eco Earth):
http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Compressed-Coconut-Substrate/dp/B0010OSIHW
The two bricks should be enough and mix in with the sand real good. It'll help keep the humidity up and it's more like their natural environment. Make sure sand is sand-castle consistency. Not too dray or they won't be able to dig tunnels and not too wet that water pools end up on the bottom.
Read the stickied posts on top of the "topics" area and ask questions if you need more info here:
http://www.hermitcrabassociation.com/phpBB/viewforum.php?f=26
Also - check out the shells from this seller on Etsy. I noticed the spiky one you have in the corner. They like "Turbo" shells much better. You'll be amazed how fast they switch in these shells (links below) and never use the one like you have showing again - see links below. Depending on the size of your crabs you'll need to figure out which ones you need.
A little smaller:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/163508909/multipack-2-25-tapestry-turbo-shell?ref=shop_home_active_2
A little larger:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/163509545/multipack-15-2-tapestry-turbo-shell?ref=shop_home_active_12
I'd go with the larger ones probably as they'll wear them if they're too big and will always grow into them fairly quickly anyways.
Good luck!
Yes, we use mesh on top of the bioballs to prevent the soil mix from draining into the drainage layer itself!
We haven't had to drain the drainage layer yet; Between the plant roots, substrate and bioballs all the waters been absorbed. Maybe it's something we'll have to do in the future though.
I've heard that native cleanup crew can take up residence themselves if you leave it as is. We established colonies of dwarf white isopods and springtails to prevent colonizers as I can be paranoid about what goes in with my scaled children and wanted to know what they were housed with! Haha!
As for the bioballs, I crept your profile and seen that you do a lot with various flora, so you probably already know what they are! :)
People just call them different things!
I added some Amazon links for a visual aid for you:
https://www.amazon.ca/Zoo-Med-HydroBalls-Lightweight-Terrarium/dp/B00167TXY0
https://www.amazon.ca/LiaFlor-Hydroton-Clay-Pebbles-litres/dp/B07K69QBGQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=clay+balls+hydroponic&qid=1571597940&sprefix=clay+balls&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyMFo5SVNHSURERjdUJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjcyMzYxMzlCV1NINkNFRVI4UCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzA3MjM1MlJZOFFIUU9RRFZWWiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
Just be sure to wash them off first if you do go the clay ball route!
Good luck! Hope to see an update in the future! :)
Standing water shouldn't be an issue in the enclosure as long as it's regularly cleaned, and you watch out for mold. Using something like these under your substrate will seriously kick up the humidity in there as long as you mist regularly. Cork wood decor also helps hold in humidity, as does moss. A large, shallow water dish helps too. If it stays too dry in there consistently, you might want to reevaluate your lighting.
I hope you and Lizard Bro prosper together.
http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-HydroBalls-Lightweight-Terrarium/dp/B00167TXY0?ie=UTF8&keywords=hydro%20balls&qid=1464665909&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
2.5LBS for $10
The two primary ways of keeping humidity up in a PVC enclosure are: a large(ish) water bowl placed on/under the heat source, and substrate.
Everyone has a personal preference when it comes to substrate, but you can't go wrong with cypress or coconut-based products. I personally dislike coco coir (EcoEarth is the name brand) because it has a tendency to get dusty/messy, and I just don't like the aesthetic. I've had good success with cypress mulch in the past, but the unsustainable forest practices were making me feel guilty, so I recently switched to coco husk chips. Been very happy with this brand - both its ability to retain moisture and resist mold!
During particularly dry periods or shedding time, you can boost humidity by placing damp sphagnum moss under the hides or in a separate "humid hide".
Last question(hopefully), sorry to bother you.
Should I order this for my coconut husk mulch? Seems like a great deal just want to make sure it's the right stuff.
http://www.royalconstrictordesigns.com/ball-python-care-sheet
http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?127203-Ball-Python-%28Python-regius%29-Caresheet
hideboxes http://www.reptilebasics.com/hide-boxes
insulation covers 3 sides of tank https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GAD5G4/
substrate https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0157O1CM8/
iv been bitten once and it doesnt hurt, id rather be bitten then scratched by a cat
i used foil and tape (outside only) to cover 90% of the screen top
Here is what I am using. As /u/Underclock stated, this can be found generally at your local pet store.
Looks like healthy mycelium to me. Your substrate looks like that coconut mulch type stuff, though, which isn't ideal. You're on the right track though, there's a finer soil-type coconut substrate, that looks like this, that works better.