Best thermometers & weather instruments according to redditors
We found 385 Reddit comments discussing the best thermometers & weather instruments. We ranked the 67 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 385 Reddit comments discussing the best thermometers & weather instruments. We ranked the 67 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
i've been paged for my link dump, so here it is. the first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions. let me know if any of the links don't work.
glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
FYI those stick on hygrometer/thermometers are very dangerous and sometimes even lethal - he is strong enough to accidentally pull it off the wall but not able to get it off himself if he gets stuck to it afterwards. Pet stores hawk them like candy and I wish they didn't, well intentioned snake parents buy them not knowing. Not only are they dangerous, they are also highly inaccurate. I'd suggest removing it ASAP and replacing it with something digital without adhesive. This is the one I use in my enclosures, the probe lets you get cool side and warm side in the same unit!
Sounds like you were getting outdated or flat-out incorrect information and those 'experienced snake owners' are likewise misinformed. There are very few snakes that legitimately have evolved to thrive on sand-based substrate (irony being the Sand Boa is not one of them; they live in sandy soil which is very different composition than straight sand). The Ball Python is native to the svannah/jungles of Sub-Saharan Africa. Its dirt, soil, and burrows. Not a majority or even significant amount of sand.
Additionally, if I extrapolate correctly from this singular picture, your BP is also in a glass enclosure and has a log-style hide. The former makes keeping humidity in the 55~80% range a difficult exercise, and the latter, is a stressor as BPs do best with a hide that has a single-entrance or is cave-like; the more points of contact, the better, and a single entrance means they can feel safer.
I'm going to steal _ataraxia's ball python dump and toss it below:
i'm going to dump a bunch of links to get you on the right track. the first three links are detailed care sheets, the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly.
glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
Absolutely, here we go:
Essential Hardware
$80 Clones - $20 from dispensary.
$325 Lights: Horticulture Lighting Group 260 QB LED Kit
$70 2' x 4' x 5' Mylar tent
$90 4" Inline duct fan and Carbon Filter
$10 - Ducting/Clamps from ACE
$21 Osculating Fan
Already on hand: Box Fan
$25 [Humidifier] (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sunbeam-Warm-Mist-Humidifier-SWM6000-BWM/32664862)
$45Dehumidifier$184" inline duct booster fan$13 Ph Meter
$12 TDS PPM meter
$9 Soil Moisture, Light, Ph meter - Does it's job
$9 Ph Control Kit
$14 Ph Calibration solution
$6 Spray Bottles (Did not use these much, only very early during transplanting.)
$7 for 30ctStarter grow bags$18 Hygrometer for Temp/Humidity
$8 for 6ct 5 gal Smart Pot knockoff
$40 - Soil: Two bags of Happy Frog. Ocean forest was sitting around.
Nutrients: $165
$13 - Scrog net: for something like 50-100ft of plastic garden fence from Home Depot. Using a lot of it for a garden.
$15 - Miscelaneous: Eyedroppers, duct tape, zip ties, and odds and ends: Call it $15.
So to total that all out we're looking just over 1000 that I spent, could have kept it under $950 if I had not purchased the small duct fan or dehumidifier. Also: Soil and nutrients for $205. Could work that down to under $150 by dropping a couple unnecessary yet desirable nutrients.
Sorry for the formatting! I'm going to do a big post write up and this is a great place to start at least. Thanks for the motivation.
Red light isn't good, you'll want a heat mat (MAKE SURE you have a thermostat for it or it will get too hot) and possibly a ceramic heat emitter (also needs a thermostat) for air heat. What are the temps and humidity and how do you measure them? Glass tanks usually don't hold humidity well and often aren't good for bps. You need at least 2 good hides, one for each side. They should be snug and enclosed with only one opening, preferably identical, half logs don't work.
Someone should come by with a really good care sheet, read it, it has some great info. I know this might be a lot of information, but having a good setup is important and will save you headaches in the future.
Edit: I found the care sheet. Credit to u/_ataraxia.
Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. It's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
OK, some specific advice to your situation follows. However, I recommend you carefully read through _ataraxia's post (pay special attention to the caresheets). That should answer a lot of your questions, and give you good advice for keeping a BP in a tank.
---------------------------------
I've never heard of corn substrate before, how does it do under high humidity? Keep an eye out for mold issues.
Humidity: 80-90 is fine, but will be incredibly difficult in a glass tank with a mesh top. You can get away with ~60% humidity most of the time.
Hides: In the wild, BPs hide in tiny rat holes/rodent dens. They like to feel tight, snug, and secure in their hides. These log hides aren't great at replicating those natural conditions because they have large openings at two ends. Please consider switching both hides to something more secure (even cardboard boxes are fine in a pinch, and these are highly recommended).
Mesh Top: Use tin foil to block off everything except where the lamp sits. This will reflect heat and humidity back down into the tank.
Temps/Humidity: I don't seen a digital gauge in your enclosure. Analog temperature and humidity gauges are notoriously inaccurate (like... WAY off). Digital gauges are cheap and reliable ways to monitor snake-level conditions in the enclosure. You can usually find them at your local Wal-Mart, even.
Water Placement: Most people put their water dish under the lamp so the evaporation increases ambient humidity. However, real estate in your enclosure is limited, especially when you add that second hide. So putting the water dish in the middle might be your best bet. Especially because you do want hides on each of the warm and cool sides.
But yeah, read _ataraxia's caresheets and follow that advice.
Edit: Instead of getting a new tank as she grows up, please consider getting a PVC reptile enclosure instead. Many are designed and made for snakes (whereas tanks are designed for fish!), so they'll make it much easier to maintain heat and humidity and keep your snake comfy and happy. Right now your tank appears a bit small and sparse...
First of all. It's very good you recognize that you need help in learning how to care for the snake.
Second, here is a big link dump created by another regular user u/_ataraxia all credit for this goes to her.
the first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions.
glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
u/ataraxia has amazing information for ball pythons. You should definitely read it through. Glass tanks are not ideal for Bps, so this should help. Here is her normal dump of information I took from another post.
i'm going to dump a bunch of helpful links on you. the first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions.
glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
I'm just going to drop this link dump from u/_ataraxia. The first three links are fantastic care sheets and will talk about feeder size vs snake size and age. The rest of it highlights products you may need.
Home: For the heating pad, you need a thermostat, which will turn it on and off automatically around a specified heat range. Mine is set to 86 degrees with the probe placed between the heat mat and the bottom of the tank. This keeps the glass on top of the tank around 83-85, and the paper towel I have over the glass is around 81-83. You may need to have a different temperature setting, depending on your setup. You shouldn't turn the heat mat entirely off, unless you notice it is malfunctioning and overheating.
To make sure that your temperatures and humidity are decent, you will want a digital thermometer/hygrometer and a temperature gun. The cool side should be in the low-mid 70s and the warm side in the low-mid 80s. The humidity should be 30%-60%. If it isn't, you can make or buy a humid hide, block off some of the venting on the screen top with aluminum foil or acrylic panels, or switch substrates to something that can be misted. This last measure will likely not be necessary unless you live in a low-humidity area.
You should have two identical caves, one on the warm side over the heat mat and one on the cool side.
Diet: What you were told may be appropriate for an adult snake. If possible, weigh her and post pictures. Do a quick Google search on how much adult corns should be eating and how often. I only have a hatchling, and don't want to lead you astray with my lack of adult corn experience.
Handling: If you got her recently enough that you haven't fed her yet, you shouldn't be handling her yet. You should feed her at least once, preferably twice before handling her the first time, and wait 48 hours after feeding to handle her.
Depending on the snake, many can be held multiple times per week. Some are conservative and say only once a week for 15 minutes. Some people allow for more handling than this. But 3-4 times a week for 'extended periods' is almost definitely too much, and as she's new to you, you should be slowly working your way up to longer periods of handling. You also should never be handling her in the 48 hours after she eats.
Shedding: Their color will usually dull and their eyes will turn milky or blue. They might have some minor changes in behavior, like more resistance to handling or possibly even refusal to eat. Mine just shed, and hid for three days prior to that. Note that the shed should come off all in one piece -- if it doesn't, it may be a sign that your snake is dehydrated and doesn't have sufficient access to clean water or the humidity in the tank is too low.
Another quick note on water: You should be changing it at least twice a week, plus any time the snake soils it. I buy filtered spring water from the store, which doesn't have some of the chemicals in tap water that are fine for humans but not so good for snakes. It's kind of a pain in the butt, but it's only about $2 a month, so whatever.
Picture of the setup
Im using a 20 gallon long glass tank with this surrounding the sides and back, its a perfect fit. A day night timer hooked to a non heated light. I dont use heating that sucks the humidity out of the air by using a heat pad for both hides regulated by thermostats one for each pad. Substrate I use is coconut husk, this one lasted me a whole year and people say it wont mold as easily compared to other non coconut fiber substrates. The tank itself uses a screened sliding locked lid. I cant speak for how to lock down other types of lids for tanks. The screen however I covered most of it with 3 layers of foil followed by tape around the edges of the foil to keep it attached and sealed better to the screen. A hole for the non heated light was made and I used a cut up piece of a zipblock bag along with tape to cover over the hole for humidity reasons. Finally the hides are medium sized from reptile basics, I remember when he could easily fit in the small one, was such a tiny noodle and of course a simple plastic water dish big enough to soak in and aid in humidity.
For times when he is in shed though, I lightly spray down the substrate and sides and back of the tank once a day. I think just spraying the glass walls and keeping that large surface area wet is good enough though.
Other items include thermometer, fake plants, gram scale, and one ball python
It mostly depends on how much you're willing to spend.
I wouldn't recommend your suggested model. You have to open up the lid to see how warm it is (like you said). It also doesn't have any alarm functionality which warns when temperature drops above or below a certain point.
A great cheaper option would be a $40 Thermoworks DOT with a clip to attach the probe right above the grill. Nice, simple, accurate, great quality.
Cheaper version of the DOT would be the $22 Maverick OT-3BBQ. I don't know much about it but to me it looks kinda cheap. Thermoworks has a great reputation so if I want a single probe thermometer I would go for the DOT.
Problem with the DOT is it has only one probe. You can't measure the temperature of the grill and your meat at the same time.
A slightly more expensive option is this $60 Maverick ET732. It has two probes. One for the grill, one for the meat you're cooking. Plus it's wireless. So you can bring the receiver in the house while your grill is doing low and slow. Probably the best value of all models.
The same idea, but better quality, would be the $100 Thermoworks Smoke. It's very accurate, easy to operate, robust, and works more reliable than the Maverick ET732 from what I've seen. If you can afford it I would go for the Smoke.
Other options are the $50 iGrill Mini and the $100 iGrill 3 from Weber. Both options work only with a smartphone. Is has some nifty features like displaying the temperature history in a graph but it connects via bluetooth and has a bad range. You can't go too far without the connection dropping. Also not so handy that you have to rely on your smartphone all the time. You can't do a quick glance at your thermometer to see the temperature. You have to open the app instead.
Other people like the $190 Fireboard Best of both worlds kinda but expensive. Both a display and smartphone connectivity over Wifi (which means longer range). Up to 6 probes to track multiple pieces of meat at the same time. It does look nice and certainly has it fans but $190 is a lot and I doubt I will need more than 2 probes frequently.
Note that the Thermoworks Smoke will have a separate Wifi module soon which allows smartphone connectivity as well. But it probably won't be cheap. I heard $80 for the extra module.
I don't know if anyone has told you yet, but you really should remove that nasty stick on thermometer thing you have. Not only is it likely not very accurate, it could fall off completely and get stuck to your snake (not very fun).
I'd definitely recommend going with a nice digital hygrometer like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BO8CUE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's accurate enough for snakes, and it can take ambient temps on both sides of your enclosure and measure humidity.
AcuRite 02067M Digital Thermometer with Humidity & Wired Temperature Sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0AGWAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_R.-ZBb2EBSYC0
This is the one I use, cheaper than usual at $10 US. But yes, the dial style is analog, and I have yet to find one that works well. Also, the unit does have to be inside the enclosure to read the humidity in it - some people forget that part. And foil is the next best step - cover 80-90% of the top and you will likely only need to run the humidifier at low power.
Top budget thermostat
jumpstart
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NZZG3S
and most popular light dimmer switch
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-TT-300H-WH-Electronics-Plug-Dimmer/dp/B0000BYEF6
Jumpstart is best for the UTH (under tank heater) and dimmer works well for the overhead heat to control the temp. ceramic heat emitters (CHE) are recommended as they do not produce light at all and can be kept on 24/7
Both need thermometers or IR temp gun to verify surface temperature.
Excellent temp and humidity sensor. External probe goes in tank and is wireless
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M252EWA
Get rid of that stick on thermometer. Once your snake gets big enough it will rip that right off
Ok. he needs a basking spot of 85f in order to digest properly. His cool side temps should be between 70-75F. He should have two snug fitting hides, one on each end, and a decent sized water dish. Aspen is the best bedding for them. Amazon has a reallly good digital thermometer/hygrometer combo that I use in all my tanks, it's this one. does the tank have any sort of heating at all?
Ok I will give tips in the order you presented the info.
>40 gallon tank.
This could be a bit on the large side for your snake so I would start by blacking out the back and sides. You can do this with construction paper, foamcore board, or spray paint if you have someplace else for the snake to live for at least a few days. Pet stores usually sell a scenery backer meant for this. Doing this will make the snake feel less out in the open and thus safer.
>Aspen bedding
I get my aspen bedding from tractor supply in a big bail. You might consider trying coco husk which will help with keeping humidity up.
> 1 hide
I would have 2 identical tight fitting hides (This is how tight they should be)so that your snake can thermo regulate without prioritizing safety.
> 2 branches
Make sure these are secure and won't fall over.
> and a sugar skull for design
Cool.
>Have a UTH because ive heard those are best forglass tanks.
These are great for many setups but you should have temperature controlled. I recommend a thermostat. Here is a cheap one. You should place the probe on the inside against the glass or you can place it under the UTH if you have an infared thermometer to check your glass temp. remember to point the these thermometer directly at the glass from the top straight down. You must shoot perpendicular to the surface you are measuring.
> Havent fed him yet because he was fed before I bought him.
That's good. I would give him a week and offer a rat that is 10% of the snakes weight. If the snake will eat frozen thawed I recommend that. I would feed every 7 to 10 days at that size. I would thaw the rodent in hot (not boiling) water in a ziplock bag until you are sure the rodent is thawed in the center. The ziplock bag is to keep the rodent dry so you can feed in your snakes enclosure. You don't want substrate to stick to the rodent and it will be fine if its dry and you supervise the feeding.
> Whats a good way to control humidity?? Having a hard time keeping it steady.
Try covering most of the screen top. You don't need that much ventilation as your snake won't be soiling its bedding regularly. You will spot clean any problems and so you can get away with much less airflow then with rodents. Here is a tutorial if you want to do it up nice. Adjust how much ventilation you have until you get the right humidity. On that note I like this for a thermostat/hygrometer.
>And should I have a heat lamp ?
I would not use a heat lamp unless you need it to keep a warm side of 90F under the hide and an ambient temp of 80F. A heat lamp will suck humidity out of the air.
wait, your saying i can sniff for acurite things like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BO8CUE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1?
this would be great, i could better monitor my snakes set up.
I can't tell if you mean a thermostat probe or a thermometer probe, but if you mean thermostat, yes. It would go below the cage either between the cage and the mat or the mat and the table the cage sits on top of. One controls (stat) and one measures (meter).
Here's a thermostat: https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-Controller-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540415321&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=thermostat+jumpstart&dpPl=1&dpID=41EIwcVuXPL&ref=plSrch
Here's a thermometer: https://www.amazon.com/AcuRite-02067M-Thermometer-Humidity-Temperature/dp/B01M0AGWAC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540415352&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=acurite+with+probe&dpPl=1&dpID=41E6p4QFB3L&ref=plSrch
Here's a temp gun (can replace the thermometer for measuring the hot spot, but isn't the best for ambients and at a glance measurements): https://www.amazon.com/gp/slredirect/picassoRedirect.html/ref=pa_sp_phone_search_atf_aps_sr_pg1_2?ie=UTF8&adId=A0004500QSSZL2YC5ZBP&url=%2FEtekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer%2Fdp%2FB00837ZGRY%2Fref%3Dmp_s_a_1_2%3Fie%3DUTF8%26qid%3D1540415375%26sr%3D8-2-spons%26pi%3DAC_SX236_SY340_QL65%26keywords%3Dir%2Btemp%2Bgun%26psc%3D1&qualifier=1540415375&id=4060015967607329&widgetName=sp_phone_search_atf&dpPl=1&dpID=41UpFdeJusL&ref=plSrch
You MUST use the thermostat (or you risk life threatening burns and fire hazard/burning your house down). Which type of measuring device is up to you as long as you check regularly (daily is best).
I have multiples of this and love it. Takes a bit to acclimate but ends up accurate. Best thing is the readout is not in the enclosure like those acurites people keep using that are not designed to go into humid environments.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M252EWA
Purchase a 5.5 gallon pot you want but without anything added to it.
https://www.amazon.com/Gallon-Stainless-Steel-Stock-Pot/dp/B000FRJJSM/ref=pd_sim_79_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000FRJJSM&pd_rd_r=6PQ2AMFEHC2QZZ0F78MZ&pd_rd_w=34FEi&pd_rd_wg=um6x3&psc=1&refRID=6PQ2AMFEHC2QZZ0F78MZ
Then purchase a weld less ball valve. https://www.amazon.com/Weldless-Stainless-Steel-Valve-Spigot/dp/B0028ZLEE6
and a weld less thermometer
https://www.amazon.com/Bayou-Classic-800-770-Brew-Thermometer/dp/B008FEPE18/ref=pd_bxgy_328_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B008FEPE18&pd_rd_r=222Q1R1CKYW4HFP57VT9&pd_rd_w=m7gkT&pd_rd_wg=pyRcb&psc=1&refRID=222Q1R1CKYW4HFP57VT9
Then purchase a step bit: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Dlawngarden&field-keywords=step+bit
Make sure it has the correct size.
Then purchase this bit for drilling pilot holes in metal: https://www.amazon.com/Century-Drill-Tool-26208-Cobalt/dp/B004UUFAYW/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1481229448&sr=1-1&keywords=1%2F8+stainless+steel+cutting+bit
Drill the pilot holes where you want the ball valve and thermometer, then use the step bit to widen the hole to the correct size.
I have been using this exact setup with an 8 gallon pot for 5+ years and it doesn't leak one little bit. Also you can choose whatever size pot you want, just remember that you should probably leave the thermometer at least an inch or so from the bottom and keep in mind the bottom water will be hotter than the top.
It's a Anemometer aka Wind Speed Meter
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00KYL3VNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7jd2CbVBDK0N4
We used the Kestrel in the Air Force. It was accurate enough for us to use to take official observations with, so it will likely do well for you.
For indoors at home, Amazon has a pretty well received dedicated humidity sensor.
There are a ton of variables here which make it difficult to diagnose. I'll give you a few tips.
Did the system ever work properly?
I’m guessing you have an issue with pressure. Your system might be on the boarder line of the pressure needed and you're not getting that fast pop to raise the heads instantly.
When the heads go up only partially, they gush a bunch of water which robs you of even more pressure. It's a feedback loop.
You might have dirty heads which causes them to need more pressure to go up all the way. All the dirt and grime inside the head causes friction which makes you need more pressure to get the pop.
They’re a bunch of videos on YouTube that I’ll show you how to clean the heads but basically you unscrew the top and rinse out all the components.
Another issue could be that your pipes keep draining after you’re done watering. Empty pipes means you have to wait longer to fill up the pipes before you get enough pressure to the heads to give them that pop. As the water fills the emtpy pipes, it delivers partial pressure to the first heads which cause them to partially go up. If only partial pressure is going to the head you going to get that partial rise which will cause the water to gush out and rob you of pressure.
You can resolve that with a check valve in each sprinkler head. The check valve will prevent the pipes from emptying between uses. It keeps the water from draining through the sprinkler head after you’re done watering. It’ll keep your pipes full of water which will mean you’ll have an easier time getting pressure across the entire system all at once. Pop.
Check valves are easy to install, you just unscrew the top and stick the check valve at the bottom of the riser. Every head has a different valve so you’ll need to look up the valve for your head. They’re pretty cheap, maybe a quarter or a dollar for each check valve, depending on where you buy them.
Here's an example check valve but make sure you get the one that matches your sprinkler head https://sprinklersupplystore.com/products/437400-pro-spray-check-valve?variant=43672132873
Also, you can check your PSI at a hose bib using this cheap gauge from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004RACK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lVy0Cb967B97E
Reposting the famous u/ _ataraxia info:
Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. It's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
Acurite brand thermometers are a good option, especially this one. I would also advise getting an IR temp gun for spot checking. I take it you decided not to go with belly heat for now, so probe placement is going to be: probe attached directly to the basking spot (whatever that may be), body of the thermometer on the cool side. That's how my boa is setup as well.
Great! That should also serve as an example too: if it was that easy for you to take off and expose the adhesive, imagine how easy it would have been for a snake!
This is the digital one that Ataraxia has in her link dump. I was concerned because of the reviews, but actually looking through them it seems to be a lot of people who don't know what they are doing/buying. I did an ice-bath test for the probe, a salt test for the hydrometer, and compared the "Inside" temp with a known source and it was fine. While that's a sample size of one unit, you can also return to Amazon for a fair period if something does go wrong.
The hardest part ill be fixing the main unit to the tank since you have glass walls instead of plastic (Plastic you can just pop a hole and slip a bolt through).
u/_ataraxia has a lot of good information. I've stolen their list of links and information for you to go through, but all the credit for this belongs to them. (Also I don't know how to embed links into the comments since I'm a reddit noob so please excuse the messiness)
the first three links are detailed care sheets, the rest are product recommendations in case you need to get any supplies yourself.
http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-the-basics-and-then-some
http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-common-problems
http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-feeding
spyder robotics (http://www.spyderrobotics.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1) makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/ is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat.
heat tape (http://www.reptilebasics.com/heat-tape) or ultratherm heat pads (http://www.reptilebasics.com/ultratherm-heat-pads) are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options.
a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer (https://www.amazon.com/AcuRite-00891A3-Outdoor-Thermometer-Humidity/dp/B001BO8CUE/) allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
an infrared thermometer (https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY/) allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
these hide boxes (http://www.reptilebasics.com/hide-boxes) are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.
edit: Just fixed some formatting to make it easier to read.
Personally I use these generic branded CX201 - A units. (be aware the link I provided is shipping from China, and will take a while). I have half a dozen and while they are cheap they have been relatively uniform and accurate throughout all the examples I have.
[The AcuRite](AcuRite 00891A3 Indoor/Outdoor Digital Thermometer with Humidity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BO8CUE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LIiRAbCEG2W80) indoor outdoor plus humidity units are very popular and come highly recommended.
I have a mechanical anemometer I bought off amazon for like $25us and it works great but I use it to measure higher speed wind 5-20 knots, so not sure how well it would work at lower levels. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZHKWCP4
Sounds like you've diagnosed unbalanced airflow. First, follow the route that the air takes as it travels from the air handler out to the rooms, and between the floors. Have you ever seen a small handle that you don't know what it does? Some systems have dampers placed within the system, to adjust airflow during the seasons. If you have one or more, they may be in the wrong position, restricting to flow to upstairs.
You might want to buy one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/HoldPeak-HP-866B-Portable-Measuring-Anemometer/dp/B00ZHKWCP4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466132432&sr=8-1&keywords=HoldPeak+HP-866B
It will help you even out the flow between vents, so that all rooms can share equally in what your system is capable of putting out.
> Also, be aware that if you use that transmitter you have an accuracy of +/- 0.1 psi which doesn't meet your original requirements.
if you look at this chart [http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/Pressure/DifferentialPressure/Transmitters/SeriesDM-2000], I will be selecting model number "DM-2003-LCD". It has range of 0"-0.5" of water. With 1% FS accuracy, it will give +/-0.005" of water accuracy. It is more than enough
>can i ask for a better description of what your attempting to accomplish?
This is for my final year project. I am trying to estimate the remaining life of an airplane filter. It is a rectangular filter with dimensions of 3" by 5". I have designed a housing to sandwich the filter in between. It is airtight and it has 2" dia intlets and outlets. Pressure drop condition given to us have been measured at a set inlet flow rate. Therefore, before I attempt to measure the pressure drop, I have to make sure the flow rate is correct. I am also thinking to put an anemometer at the circular inlet ,
and calculate the velocity at the cross section just before air goes into the filter.[https://www.amazon.ca/HOLDPEAK-866B-Digital-Anemometer-Temperature/dp/B00ZHKWCP4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518621498&sr=8-2&keywords=anemometer] However, I don't know if doing that would yield accurate results. As you mentioned pitot tube also has its own drawback, as it measures the velocity of very small section. You would need a grid of those to get an accurate velocity measurement. Our final design needs to be something like a kit, therefore easy to assembly and operate. Putting a grid of pitot tubes is not preferable. Therefore I am considering to use an anemometer. What do you think?
This temp gun is pretty similar (I can't find the same one I have, but it's just a cheap one)
And yeah, environmental conditions make a big difference, but smaller local changes affect it too. Walking outside from a controlled climate into whatever is natural is pretty disruptive even for easy-to-TC coil materials. TC is just finicky to begin with. DNA mods account for it with extra temp sensors that read changes in ambient temperature, but even that only goes so far, and is susceptible to things like bodyheat influencing it.
makes total sense
https://www.amazon.com/Wires-Generator-250Rpm-Power-Collector/dp/B00MYYTWQ8
Because I'm too lazy to walk down there to see for myself.
And definitely too lazy to set up a video camera to watch something as boring as plants growing.
Extra sensors are an extra $10 each. I have one in each of my 3 tents.
ThermoPro TP60 Digital Hygrometer Indoor Outdoor Thermometer Humidity Monitor with Temperature Gauge Humidity Meter, Wireless Outdoor Hygrometer, 200ft/60m Range https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XKH666P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iDHJAbRGGPEVV
You'll want a humidity meter, something like this - one that has 2 sensors is nice because you can have the display on your main level as well as a sensor in your basement.
Generally, in the summer, you want to run your dehumidifier when the humidity is greater than about 50% inside - you'll likely want to run the dehumidifier in your basement, because it'll likely be most humid in that area.
In the winter, you'll want to run the humidifier that's hooked up to your HVAC system. The setting for humidity you should choose depends on how cold it is outside. If you set the humidity too high and it's really cold outside, you'll get condensation on your windows (and possibly inside your walls, which you really don't want). Here's a chart you can follow - I put a chart on my phone as well as right next to the humidity dial so I can check it easily. You'll have to adjust it up/down as the temperature outside changes over the winter.
I use this indoor/outdoor wireless thermometer/hygrometer. Records max/min temp and humidity (all time and over 24hr period) in memory. It's 3oz (without batteries), so not the lightest, but worth the weight for me. It's pretty fun being able to see the freezing temps outside your tent while wrapped up in a sleeping bag. If you want a similar thing which records only temperature then they are available at around 2oz.
There are some alternatives which connect to an iphone/android app which are much lighter, but more expensive.
I recommend this. Cheap, seems accurate, and you can keep the main station upstairs. As a bonus get add on sensors and measure outside conditions as well.
ThermoPro TP65 Digital Wireless... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075QBRR6S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I was gifted this one from Amazon for Christmas a couple of years ago and have been very happy with it and have added additional sensors to monitor some cold frames and seed starting rack. It does display the temperature of the base station so that would not meet one of requirements but otherwise the range is decent and the sensors are cheap and easy to add on.
Found one that is close, but would be better to have it in standard outlet.
https://www.amazon.com/Wires-Generator-250Rpm-Power-Collector/dp/B00MYYTWQ8/
100% agree. Tree needs a serious thinning.
Get some milorganite on the lawn and start watering heavily. St Augustine will die if it dries out and that is what it appears occurred.
1" per week is the minimum. If you don't know how much that is (it is more than you think) you will need to measure it with irrigation audit devices or use tuna cans.
I have used a set of these for several years.
TEN Pack 1.5" Rain Gauge / Sprinkler Gauge, Wide Mouth, Bright Yellow Outdoor Water Measuring Tool 10 Piece
Good luck!
Lawn care can be as simple or as crazy as you want to make it. The Lawn Care Nut on YouTube is a great resource for tips.
$23
REOTEMP FG20P Backyard Compost Thermometer - 20" Stem, Fahrenheit with Composting Instructions https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002P5RGMI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xooozb9WRZB11
Oh hey, I didn't realize you were the person in the vid!
So, here's the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/Crosse-Technology-WT-137U-Thermometer-Hygrometer/dp/B006MOVP7K
If I were you, I'd get two. One for the cab, one for the house, since you seem to have different microclimates. Makes sense with the divider.
Also, vinegar is your friend with mold cleanup. It kills the roots in pourous surfaces, and is non-toxic. I tend to use apple cider vinegar in a spray bottle, as I think it smells a bit better, but regular white vinegar works. Do not dillute, do not buy the super-strong "cleaning" vinegar, just use household vinegar from the grocery store.
Also, if you're in a humid place, check under your mattress/sleeping bag. You sweat, and that area is often compressed with poor ventilation.
Good luck, man. Mold really, really sucks. That experience is part of why I'm staying in the desert for the next couple months.
They do make them with short stubby probes (flat on the end) or you can get a thermowell, which is usually larger and less likely to rip the bag. But definitely shorter, although that will compromise the accuracy a bit.
You can also use a compost thermometer from the top, when you want to read the temp. You can check the temp in several places that way.
> Also, can anyone possibly point me to any cheaper alternatives to a thermometer/hygrometer? eg something more generic, not specific for reptiles.. my local pet store wants $35 a pop for them
this is the go to hygro/thermometer. As a note, the probe reads temp only, and the display reads both temp and humidity, most put the display on cool side and probe on warm
Hey! Thanks for all the great info you've posted in this thread and all others. One thing I've noticed however is that your resources recommend this therm/hygrometer, but the product description indicates that it measures indoor humidity at the unit itself, not at the probe location. Assuming you use a unit similar to this one, do you have the unit mounted inside the enclosure somehow? If not, how do you get an accurate humidity reading from inside?
EDIT this link you provided below shows the same thermo/hygro unit attached to the inside of the tub with adhesive velcro strips - something I've been very thoroughly warned against by your link to that poor injured corn that ended up dying.
Rain Bird P2A Water Pressure Test Gauge, 3/4" Female Hose Thread, 0-200 psi https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004RACK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OofnDb6T4E1H6
Oh those little round plastic ones? If so, there are a couple different problems here I think -
Those plastic dial thermometer/hygrometers are pretty much just garbage. If you want to get a better reading of what ambient temps are, I would look into digital ones like Acurite. This is the one I use which comes with a probe that can stick on to the side of the tank. There's also one that's like $11-$12 but it just sits on the bottom.
Another problem is UTH are designed to only heat the direct surface above where they're positioned, so they don't have much of an impact on the ambient temp. The best way to measure a UTH's heat is with a temperature gun, which takes a reading directly from the surface. They're about $20 on Amazon. If you used a temp gun on that UTH's surface you'd likely be surprised by how hot it is; actually, a UTH unregulated by a thermostat can get dangerously hot for an animal to touch.
What you might want to look into is a ceramic heat emitter; it's an unlighted bulb that screws into a heat lamp and it'll heat the air temperatures below the lamp. You'd probably have to experiment with different wattages or get a dimmer for it to get temps around what you'd want
Easy to do, gauges are frequently $8 on Amazon and screw onto a hose bib or your hot water heater drain.
https://www.amazon.com/Rain-Bird-P2A-Pressure-Female/dp/B00004RACK
It's a pretty good chance the city is over 80 in any city of even moderate age. As more houses are added to the water line, they turn up the pressure more and more to serve everyone. Many cities now require a PRV on new construction because city water is getting too high and homes are designed for 80psi tops.
Also fyi spray sprinklers are designed for optimal performance at 30psi and rotors for 45psi, so 80+ is way outside their operating zone too.
FWIW, I used one of these water pressure meters to confirm my pressure reducing valve isn't functioning. Wherever you attach it, also realize there's a drop as you increase elevation (2nd floor pipes will measure less than the basement). I have 105 psi and it's not supposed to exceed 80, which makes one shower that has a "short feed" for the cold line and a longer feed for the hot water line very difficult to get a warm shower out of.
edit: As someone raised in a house with a septic system... it sounds like yours could need to be redone. Most of your drainage issues are from the leechfield not draining well. You can try to get it pumped out, and see if something was just plugged up, but the widespread backups on seemingly all your sewer lines suggest you're not flushing into "empty pipe" but a system that just isn't draining fast enough to keep up.
Here's u/ataraxia's classic link dump I found on a other post. Although the informstion is written for bps (most common snake people have trouble with it seems- mostly due to the humedity) but the suggestions could definitely help you for the humedity aspect needed for your boa.
You should definitely read it through.
i'm going to dump a bunch of helpful links on you. the first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions.
glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
I am a bot programmed to automatically provide the following content by /u/_Ataraxia when summoned. Link to the most recent version of this content here
The first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions. Let /u/_Ataraxia know if any of the links don't work.
Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
Ball Python Care Guides
Set-up Recommendations
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I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.
I use this guy: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BO8CUE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I did the salt test and it's only 4% too high. I thought it was busted at first when I put it into my humid enclosure, but it turns out the humidity was just 96% or higher (it was just displaying "HIGH"). It does update pretty well though. I let the enclosure dry out a little bit over a few days due to oversaturating the substrate and the percentage dropped to display an actual number.
That makes sense! I'm using this thermometer in the corner of the cold side to measure the cold temp: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001BO8CUE/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Is that good to measure the cold temps?
I have the UTH on a jumpstart thermostat, with the probe between the UTH and the bottom of the tank. I don't have the lamp on a thermostat, but I'll get another one to put it on. Where should the probe for that thermostat be?
[Thermometer/Hygrometer] (http://www.amazon.com/Chaney-Instruments-Acu-Rite-Thermometer-Humidity/dp/B001BO8CUE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=LHQMMUNJTCBO&coliid=IX3DGDHB4PBM8)
[Thermostat] (http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPRTC-Digital-Thermostat-Heat/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=LHQMMUNJTCBO&coliid=I11WG4736K1KJI)
What is your water pressure? What is the size of the feed line to your spigot?
All the sprinkler systems I've installed were on dedicated lines (not running through a hose spigot) and were sized appropriately for the pressure and system capacity.
It sounds like you either have very low water pressure, or an undersized line- and the backflow preventer is exerting just enough force to reduce the pressure sufficiently to prevent the sprinklers from running. A backflow preventer is a restriction- but it's usually minuscule.
Rainbird makes a pressure gauge that you can use to check the pressure at the spigot if you are not sure: https://www.amazon.com/Rain-Bird-Pressure-Female-Thread/dp/B00004RACK/
My pressure washer doesn’t really care what the incoming pressure is as it is the type of pump that can suck water out of a bucket if need be. The pressure washer does need adequate flow to perform optimally.
As others have mentioned it seems all the power washing pros in my area all use their own trailer mounted tank so your house pressure may not even be an issue.
As to your problem, you don’t say where you live. I’ll just assume the US. From what you describe you seem to have a flow problem. Remember there is a difference between pressure and flow. The most likely cause is that your service line from the street to the house has narrowed due to mineral deposits/corrosion/biofilm building up over the years.
Are you saying that your meter is 8 feet below ground level? I find that hard to believe. It would be very difficult for the utility company to do their routine meter reading during their billing cycle.
Most water service lines generally aren’t more than a few feet deep. Replacing one is not a really big deal - just a lot of grunt work in digging the trench. Once that is done it is a lot cheaper to have a plumber do the line replacement.
As far as a PRV, your utility company should be able to tell you if those are commonly used on their system. Most sytems don’t require PRV’s at residential connections because the normal system pressure in the mains in the street aren’t high enough to warrant one. They should be able to tell you what the nomral pressures are in your area. You could also measure your line pressure yourself. You can get a gauge that you can screw onto the spigot you would connect your garden hoe to for less than $10 - https://smile.amazon.com/Rain-Bird-P2A-Pressure-Female/dp/B00004RACK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497077267&sr=8-1&keywords=water+pressure+meter
That will tell you what pressure you have at your house. Note that pressure will likely vary somewhat at various times of day depending upon water usage/demand in your area.
In my state, water utilities are required by law to maintain a minimum system pressure of 20 psi. Normal system pressure is usually at least two or three times that.
You could have a plumber come out and cutout a section of the service line pipe in your crawlspace so the interior condition of the pipe can be inspected. The materials used for pipes will vary in various regions and over various years. In my area most house built in the 50’s had either copper service lines or galvanized steel. Galvanized pipes are notorious for buildup that narrows the pipe.
You say you have had the utility company out to your house before. One other thing you might ask them is how old your meter is. It could be that there is something clogging the meter somewhat. Most water utilities replace their meters every decade or two mainly because they do wear out and start to lose some accuracy as they wear down. They could disconnect the meter to see and make sure that adequate flow is getting to your property. Some utility companies are more helpful than others so they may not be willing to do that.
Good luck!
http://www.amazon.com/Rain-Bird-P2A-Water-Pressure/dp/B00004RACK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1312853183&sr=8-1
You could try this, should be able to pick it up from a box store. If the pressure is indeed higher than it should be, you would need to consult with the city. There may be ways to lower your household pressure, but that is beyond me.
There is some good info here http://www.irrigationtutorials.com/gpm-psi-municipal-water-source/.
I did the 5 gallon bucket test and measured my pressure with a simple gauge that attached to an unregulated spigot like this one http://www.amazon.com/Rain-Bird-P2A-Water-Pressure/dp/B00004RACK.
I was all about mapping out the system and creating a diagram, but I had some difficulty doing this as I couldn't diagram it properly. My dad used to be a professional landscaper and he simply walked the yard and laid out flags color coded to each zone. The sprinklers give you a range of how much water they use so as soon as you know your pressure and water flow you'll know how many sprinklers you can put on a single valve.
My dad did a better job simply walking out the spacing manually. The main thing I learned was that although a sprinkler may have a 15 foot range you'll want significant overlap to ensure proper watering.
Save yourself a bunch of money: (cheaper still at a hardware store)
https://www.amazon.com/Rain-Bird-P2A-Multi-Purpose-Pressure/dp/B00004RACK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480607756&sr=8-1&keywords=water+gauge
https://www.amazon.com/MettleAir-110-ED-1PK-Reducing-Reducer-Bushing/dp/B00S8C0JBC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1480608162&sr=8-5&keywords=3%2F4+male+to+3%2F8+female+adapter
I did this and it worked no problem. And yeah, what everyone else is saying. You just have to really go for it. Use a table vise or large pliers with something to protect the ridges from carving up your portafilter.
I'll agree with what others have already said. And also add the following comments:
Have you checked pressure upstream and downstream of the PRV? Use one of these. Also you can try adjusting the pressure by turning the bolt after loosening the nut. If no change, then time to replace.
Its not abnormal for the diaphram to wear out. If you can ID the model (or take to a plumbing supply to ID), you can buy a repair kit to replace the guts leaving the housing in place, which would be less labor. Just remove the bell and the guts are accessible.
If no luck with repair kit, you'll have to replace the whole thing. In which case, don't worry about finding the identical model. As someone mentioned, unless you have movement in the pipe, it won't be easy to get on, and would require soldering anyway. The critical dimension would have been the spacing between the in & out port, and pipe size. Yours look like 3/4".
Home depot does in fact carry PRVs, example. This one is a union on both sides which would make it easier to install. Still requires some sweating/soldering. But you don't need extra play in the pipes to squeeze the PRV in place.
Also, what's going on above the PRV? I see wire nuts. I hope that's for sprinklers and not line voltage. Make sure those are waterproof wire nuts, or packed with silicone.
You probably do need a pressure regulating valve (PRV). Go to your local hardware store and pick up one of these. Put it on your hose faucet and turn the hose faucet on, and if it is over 80 psi, you should get a PRV installed. Your pipes also may not be properly supported in the new addition. Is this master bathroom above or near the water heater?
I agree with those saying check water pressure. You may only see it at your dishwasher because the solenoid valve it has closes really fast. But if you turn on a sink and slam the faucet shut as quick as you can, you’ll hear it there too. You can get a relatively cheaply and check it at a spigot yourself to rule it out. You want to be 40-60 psi here’s a gauge for $6.37
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004RACK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519230445&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=water+pressure+gauge&dpPl=1&dpID=513tdz-hTQL&ref=plSrch
No, I'm bottling one bottle into a plastic bottle with this pressure gauge. The rest will be in glass bottles. I will pasteurize them all once the gauge reaches near 30psi.
The pressure gauge will be an experiment. I've seen lots of people do it with hand-made versions successfully. I read that 3/4 hose thread is close enough to bottle threads, so I thought I'd try this pre-made one out.
More info on bottle carbing
http://www.howtomakehardcider.com/carb-oh.html
Municipal means you are looking for a Pressure reducing valve, probably very close to your shutoff. Often A cone shaped object.
A hose bib pressure guage would be helpful. Knowing the pressure when adjusting would be best.
I've had this one for a little over three years now and I really like it. I don't love it but it gets the job done. I bought a maverick bbq thermometer and it turns out that the built in thermometer was fairly accurate for me. The only tip I have is make sure you ALWAYS use a water pan. Since the heat source is fairly close to the delicious meat its easy to dry it out quickly. Not sure which model you have but the water pan that came with it really sucked so I threw it out. Very simple fix for me was is using an aluminum pan (the disposable kind) and it usually last me a few cooks until I feel obligated to throw it out. The pan also makes clean up much easier because it catches drippings very well.
I use something like this, but I can't vouch for any particular brand.
That's a dozen of those Orbit catch cups and stands for $27, not just 1. Not bad.
There are also these in a 10 pack:
https://www.amazon.com/Sprinkler-Bright-Outdoor-Water-Measuring/dp/B005C5OP8G/
Or these in an 8 pack:
https://www.amazon.com/Extremely-Accurate-Sprinkler-Calibration-Measuring/dp/B004FNARZQ/
Yeah, I've always seen the cheap recommendation to use empty tuna cans / cat food cans, and spread multiple ones around.
I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/REOTEMP-FG20P-Backyard-Compost-Thermometer/dp/B002P5RGMI
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075QBRR6S/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is one I've decided to try. I feel the issue with the Acurites is water getting inside them from spraying the tank. Which for a humidity sensor shouldn't be going out since. So I feel having a waterproof sensor inside the enclosure and the display outside is going to be a better solution.
Awesome thank you! i figured i would need them at some point just didn't know if i needed them off the bat. Anything you recommend or use? i went with the FoxFarm Ocean forest soil aswell.
I did get one of these Hygrometers that i saw in the FAQ's.
Going for 21 day on my first. I have some aged already from a local butcher, so I have a taste to compare it to.
​
For temp / humidity I am using this thermometer, so far its been working well.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075QBRR6S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
As far as the fridge setup, I didn't do anything special. I let it sit for about 2 weeks to make sure the temp holds and what setting it needs to be at. There isn't a fan to cycle in it, so I bought a small desk fan. I didn't have to cut a notch out of the side, it locks closed well enough. I back that up with using a strap around it just to be sure.
​
Hoping it turns out well! Aldi's had this bone in ribeye on sale.. So I figured it would be best to try it on something cheaper before moving to a bigger cut.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075QBRR6S/
Easy $25 spend...
This isn't DIY but it works really well in my spa and pool and integrated into HA seamlessly - I assume SmartThings would be even easier
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MGJ4F4T
https://www.amazon.com/Bykski-Inline-Aluminum-LCD-Thermometer/dp/B07RT2CRMQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=bykski+temperature+sensor&qid=1566572497&s=gateway&sprefix=bykski+temp&sr=8-4
With an anemometer https://imgur.com/a/3Y8BkAK
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X5VGZP5/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_WCfYDbE232KR2
You're looking for about 90FPM + coming out across the filter face. Evenly. If you are seeing large speed spikes or drops in different spots it will create turbulance possibly drawing contaminants into your work.
Read up on your circle area calculation. Some devices measure in square feet for the area and some in square inches. I never thought I would have to use math again until I got into woodworking...
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This is the one I use when I setup my DC. I think it was sold under a differnet name but looks the exact same. Let me know if you need help.
https://www.amazon.com/Proster-Anemometer-Measuring-Collection-Windsurfing/dp/B01FTPX566
Before you do anything, you should either balance the system yourself, or hire someone to do it.
Maybe you do have a system that is insufficient for your needs. It happens all the time. But you first should make sure that the current one is working to peak efficiency, before you spend your money.
If you want to try this yourself, you might look into purchasing two items. A non-contact thermometer:
https://www.amazon.com/Dr-Meter-IR-20-Non-contact-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B00R19ANCS
And an air flow meter:
https://www.amazon.com/HOLDPEAK-866B-Digital-Anemometer-Temperature/dp/B00ZHKWCP4
This way you can quickly see how much air is coming out of each vent, and how cold or hot it is. This will allow you to balance out the system, helping to insure even airflow into all the rooms, on all stories.
Proper airflow is the key. If you have dampers, adjustable registers, or both, then using these tools should allow you to reduce the conditioned air where you don't need it, and send it in sufficient volumes to where you do want it.
Get a budget anemometer and measure the air flow from the vent:
https://www.amazon.com/PROSTER-Anemometer-Measurement-Thermometer-Windsurfing/dp/B00KYL3VNS
If it is low when compared to others in the house, restrict the highest flowing vents maybe 25% to 30% to direct more air to the weaker flowing vents.
Checking each of the vents airflow is step 1 of this process. Get something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/HoldPeak-HP-866B-Portable-Measuring-Anemometer/dp/B00ZHKWCP4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466132432&sr=8-1&keywords=HoldPeak+HP-866B
This little device tells you how hard the air pressure is coming out of the vent. Ideally, small rooms get low flow, and large rooms get higher airflow.
This should help you get adequate flow to each room.
it was between 160-180 for sure b/c it was off the chart and I was afraid that might be bad / start a fire.
I got this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KXAGST4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I made my bins to big so they are such a bitch to turn. I guess I just gotta suck it up and pull everything out and turn it around. I figured sitting the entire fall/winter would have been good enough
I'm in Utah. My pile is at 130 degrees! I have this same compost thermometer, which is Cate's Garden (no guarantee that Amazon is the best price, just linking).
Get a dimmable lamp hood like this one and use any white light basking bulb. You can go to any hardware store and get a couple feet of chain for a couple dollars, and some screw in hooks to hang it from. If you use the clamp it could fall and burn your tort or catch the substrate on fire. And then get a point and shoot thermometer gun like this one to check the temp directly under the bulb. Putting a piece of slate for your tort to lay on under the lamp is also a good idea. About $1 for a square foot or you could look for a broken piece they may give you for free.
Thanks for all the info!
Regarding the soil, I bought this soil and this perlite for my new plants but I haven't repotted the peppers (only have used it for new plants). I did a 50/50 mix. I was concerned about including vermiculite because, in reading about it, it seemed it would retain moisture, and that doesn't seem to be an issue...
For reference, here's the greenhouse: https://imgur.com/3yWhKW8 I'm mostly growing hot peppers but also some other herbs.
How do I go about repotting the large pepper plants? I've never done it with plants this big. Do I just pull them out, knock off all the dirt and move them to new pots? I imagine the root system takes up most of the pot and I don't really want to go to bigger pots (I'm limited on space in the greenhouse).
For fertilizer, I bought this and the plants seem to love it.
For the hygrometer, would something like this work?
I'd like to understand more about your motor selection and what makes you confident it's not the limiting factor. Your blower looks amazing, I could see that thing churning out a ton of air.
Another poster mentioned the Matthias Wandel video and he uses a tachomoter to measure the blade RPM. You should consider doing that to see what RPM your blades are actually getting to. He also uses a anemometer to measure the effective airflow to compare.
I'm relatively convinced if you increase the power going into the blower you can achieve the flow you need.
The cheapest route will be to get the parts and build it:
That gets you what you want for $140 before shipping costs. You could go with aluminum or a smaller pot (this one is 10 gallons) to save a little more, or shop around a bit. I just did a quick search for those.
Just bear in mind that the handles on the cheaper pots tend to be a bit flimsy, so you're better off not moving it once it's full. Make sure you're brewing up high enough that gravity can do its job.
If it truly concerns you, buy one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/La-Crosse-Technology-Thermometer-Hygrometer/dp/B006MOVP7K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1395549254&sr=8-4&keywords=humidity+gauge
Or if you want extra protection with a humidity alarm:
http://www.amazon.com/Extech-445815-Humidity-Meter-Remote/dp/B000GFCN1I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395549190&sr=8-1&keywords=humidity+alarm
Not sure about new sod, but for established grass, 1+ inch a week. I do half an inch every 4 days.
TEN Pack 1.5" Rain Gauge / Sprinkler Gauge, Wide Mouth, Bright Yellow Outdoor Water Measuring Tool 10 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005C5OP8G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yHE5BbEAETV0G
For less messy amazon links you can extract the part after "/dp/" in
https://www.amazon.com/AcuRite-00891A3-Outdoor-Thermometer-Humidity/dp/B001BO8CUE/]
and make it:
https://amzn.com/B001BO8CUE
Or via smile link:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001BO8CUE
BEEP BOP
Plz send any recommendations via PM