Best threaded rods & stands according to redditors

We found 14 Reddit comments discussing the best threaded rods & stands. We ranked the 12 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Subcategories:

Equal thread lenght rods & studs
Fully threaded rods & studs
Press-in captive studs
Rivet studs
Single end threaded studs
Unequal thread lenght studs
Weld studs

Top Reddit comments about Threaded Rods & Studs:

u/madmax_br5 · 8 pointsr/technology

Boost its output by making a cheap solar concentrator! Find some spare heatsink(s) and affix it(them) to the back of the panel with thermal paste. Then make a cheap, large parabolic shape roughly 4x4ft by bending chicken wire and then paper mache over it. When still wet, cover the whole thing in a layer of aluminum foil and it should stick to the paste and stay on there. Then you need to make some sort of tripod like thing to mount the panel at the correct distance from the reflector. I'd use three steel spring clamps to attach to the frame, then drill 3/8" holes through both handles. Get three 3-4ft pieces of 1/4-20 threaded rod (buy all this stuff at your local hardware store). Put a 14/20 nut on the rod and thread it down a little over and inch, followed by a large washer. Then stab the end though the paper mache and into one of the chicken wire segments near the edge of the reflector, followed by another washer and nut to hold it in place. So you've got nut-washer-chicken wire-washer-nut. Repeat with the other two rod segments so the three are evenly spaced around the perimeter of the reflector, like a satellite dish.

Now take everything outside in the sun, and angle the reflector so that it's roughly pointing at the sun. Using a large piece of cardboard or similar (be careful not to burn yourself as the focal point will be very hot!), find the correct height for the solar panel to be placed. The correct height will be where the size of the light blob is slightly larger than the size of the solar panel. Now tilt it away from the sun to finish assembly. To the top end of the rods, add another nut followed by another washer and thread them down to roughly the distance you just estimated. One you have done that for all three, take your handle-drilled spring clamps off the solar panel and slide them down over the rod through the handle-holes. The larger hole (3/8") will allow them to play a bit. With all of them on there, take the solar panel and re-attach the camps. You'll have to shimmy things around a bit. Now turn it back to the sun and make sure the panel is 100% covered by light. you can adjust the height and coverage by raising or lowering the nuts. When you've got it correct, put another washer and nut on and thread them down to loosely sandwich the clamp between the other nut. You want just enough pressure to keep the nut secure, not so much that you squeeze the handle on the clamp. Tada! Done! You've just made a solar concentrator for 20 bucks!

You can increase the output of the panel by 6-7 times by doing this, provided your heat sink cools the panel effectively.

u/doodledraft · 8 pointsr/robotics
u/caiuscorvus · 3 pointsr/homelab

If you're doing docker why not k8s? :)

Or look at your other options. Ubuntu is great, but there are a few OSs particularly for docker containers like rancheros that will reduce overhead and streamline deployment.

And I mod a lot of my gear. I would consider stringing them on a couple rods or building a tower. The rods would be nice because you could hang them in a rack :).

Edit: by rods I mean a couple of these guys cut to length (also available shorter and cheaper, but the are 2x rack length). Just get some matching nuts and bam, instant rack. If you want a non-rack form factor something else may better allow for swapping out parts and mounting fans. If rack mount, hang that from a shelf, load the shelf with psus. Just use 80mm (not 120) coolers to maximize packing :)

u/Malichi188 · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

You may want to toss in this and these and these for the Z-Brace. I know they are a little overkill on quantities but its either 100 for $10 or 10 for $7. Assuming you dont already have this stuff laying around.

u/mylostlights · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Interesting Fact: I'm filming a Reality Show this friday!
Sadly it's only a pilot and will probably not get picked up.

I could use this for a video that I have planned

Please pop my cherry! :)

u/unstoppabru · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon
  1. This grey shirt!
  2. The guys on this CD cover look like falling drops of rain. Plus there's lots of water.
  3. Japanese Green Tea Kit Kats!
  4. My mom was so impressed with the wigs she got me that she wants one of her own.
  5. You've probably read this classic but it's my favorite book. Even from a non-romantic literary standpoint, it's genius.
  6. How about an MP3? No shipping lol
  7. Terry Pratchet is probably the most hilarious writer ever and if you've ever owned a cat, or love cats, this is just amazing.
  8. These nails. They would actually be annoying to wear but they're so cute!
  9. Oldboy. Perfect action/revenge/mindscrew movie. It's so captivating and well done. I haven't met anyone who didn't like it.
  10. Instant fire starter. One way to get rid of the undead is to burn them to ashes and this spiffy thing will light you a fire in a jiffy.
  11. This sewing machine. I've always wanted to make my own clothes because there aren't enough cute US styles. Most fashions these days are more sexy than sweet. I'd make a boutique for feminine, cute, Lolita, Gyaru, and Gothic styles. But first I'd have to learn how to sew, haha.
  12. FACK. And it sounds so good too!
  13. Sewing Machine from before for the same reasons
  14. ICE CREAM MAKER
  15. Gold studs are super tiny
  16. Vanilla Boubon Extract. Yummmm
  17. Kitty Stealing Coins :3
  18. Need to know how to make lunches for school, don't I?
  19. Hime Gyaru Wig. I'm getting more and more into Japanese fashion. My goal is to look a little like this.
  20. Majestic. Classy. Daring. Beautiful. So many uses.

    fear cuts deeper than swords

    This was so fun to do! :D
u/BillyJackO · 2 pointsr/discgolf

I got a long piece of all thread that matched the same thread as the Clicgear wheels I bought for it. Drilled out the holes where the bottom roller blade wheels are so the allthread could fit through snug. Then used female to female nut union/coupling to fasten the Clicgear wheels to the allthread. Here's about what I used. Cost ~$80 to do, so I'd make sure you get the right stuff as this was a quick google. You could call Clicgear and ask them all the thread size info and go to grainger and make sure you order the right nut/allthread. You could also go on Zuca Mods on facebook and ask there. Very active community.
https://www.clicgearusa.com/products/clicgear-maintenance-free-wheelscB

https://www.amazon.com/Threaded-plated-M12-1-75-Thread-Threads/dp/B00G3QETRU/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=M12+threaded+rod&qid=1568719070&s=industrial&sr=1-5

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-1-75-Pitch-Length-Stainless-Coupling/dp/B07JNPWGBF/ref=sr_1_1?qid=1568719215&refinements=p_n_feature_fourteen_browse-bin%3A11434082011&s=industrial&sr=1-1

u/PrancingNugget · 1 pointr/Vaping
u/Necoras · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Amazon all teh metric things!

u/DieterDawg · 1 pointr/DIY

I'm not sure what your current setup is but you will need a fixed stop on one side. If you use a window screen plunger,

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XLL9JLQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GQ2sDb63H66RP

the stop would be on the outside and you will need to drill holes in the screen frame. If you use a window screen latch,

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKVH88I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wY2sDbV04N3S6

the stop would be on the inside.

Or, you could nail a fixed stop in the outside and screw a removable stop on the inside. The stop is just a thin, narrow strip of wood 3/8" x 3/8". 

u/duane11583 · 1 pointr/sailing

Brass insert - like you find in plastic molding, or in wood working. One for each corner. There are several types, wood working ones have a complete screw on the out side.

Like this: https://www.amazon.com/10-24-Threaded-Inserts-Length-SNG871/dp/B07XC6QTW6

Others have part of the thread removed (so it will not come out) or they are knurled, a knurled or modified thread will not back out of the epoxy

You can modify a knife edge thread by bending/cutting/whatever ... thus when the epoxy hardens, it can’t back out.

I assume you can remove the lid and turn it upside down, meaning: Hole side up.

Then like kev-lar70 says: Remove the core with an allen wrench in a drill, you need some area inside the lid to pour the epoxy and for it to grab into and form onto. Scuff up so your epoxy can get type of a grip.

Pour the epoxy in a hole, then while it is wet - insert BRASS threaded inserts

While the epoxy is wet, you need to keep the INSIDE thread clean, so take a screw dip it in vaseline (or simular), then screw it into the insert. Make this screw extra long so it is like a handle to hold it in place as the epoxy sets. The goal of the vaseline is to keep the epoxy out of inside thread, and act like a “release agent” for the space between the brass insert and your screw.

I would make one or two practice ones to see how well it works, and to understand how well the insert holds and stuff like that.