(Part 2) Best threading tools according to redditors
We found 329 Reddit comments discussing the best threading tools. We ranked the 95 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
Hey man, this should have your size. When I worked at Toyota I used it all the time to fix threads. Only $32 https://www.amazon.com/9TRADING-Spindle-Fractional-Metric-Rethreading/dp/B07M7PN4JT/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=axle+rethreading+kit&qid=1559262331&s=gateway&sprefix=Axle+ret&sr=8-5
For screws like that, you'll have better luck with a hollow hole saw style extractor like this
https://www.amazon.com/Single-Screw-Extractor-1-4/dp/B0032YWQ26/ref=mp_s_a_1_18?keywords=screw+extractor&qid=1559039548&s=gateway&sr=8-18
The other style really only works for bolts or large screws.
Fluted extractor:
http://www.amazon.com/Pittsburgh-Forge-Piece-Screw-Extractor/dp/B004LKUXKC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1416583005&sr=8-3&keywords=fluted+extractor
Tap Handle:
http://www.amazon.com/Capacity-Nonslip-Handle-Adjustable-Tapping/dp/B007XRBCP0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1416583033&sr=8-2&keywords=tap+handle
Drill it out to the largest size you can and use the largest fluted extractor you can fit in that hole. Do this CAREFULLY, because if you break off the extractor in there now you have tool steel stuck in the hole, and that's no fun at all because it's just as hard as your drill bits. It has to be ground out.
This does what you are asking
https://www.amazon.com/Single-Screw-Extractor-1-4/dp/B0032YWQ26
Use this. (Left hand) Drill into the center and it may catch and back out on its own with just the drill bit. If it doesn't, use the other dealies to get it. https://www.amazon.com/Screw-Extractor-10Pc-Easy-Handed/dp/B00BJSAFH0
I would recommend this gear wrench set at $88 it is about at its cheapest price ever. I grabbed one a few months back and so far am happy with it.
Get a screw extractor kit like this one ⬇️
Screw Extractor 5 Piece Set Titanium Plated 4341 High-Speed Steel Easily and Quickly Remove All Common Sizes of Damaged, Broken or Stripped Screws https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X5N5DNV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pc83DbHMPJFVV
Happened to me about 2 years ago. This was how Boosted responded when I asked if it was something I could fix myself. Still works great since then.
"sorry about the striped motor mounts. We have that happen occasionally here and that can be fixed with a 8-32 helicoil kit and a tap handle. I found an example of each to reference on amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/PowerCoil-8-32-Thread-Repair-Insert/dp/B007N6T9OC/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1410384012&sr=8-6&keywords=helicoil+8-32
http://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-21916-T-Handle-through/dp/B0002YUVSA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410384083&sr=8-1&keywords=tap+handle
"
I crashed my drone into cement and ground the shafts of my motors in a way that filled the threads with junk metal. After thinking I needed a new bell (from china), or a new motor (8 more dollars than the bell from USA). My father in law recommended a tap and die to try and fix the one I have. I found a set on amazon for the same price as a motor, and, if it worked, I could use it to fix this issue everytime versus buying a new part. It also goes well with a 3D printer for threading parts. The fix was successful, including chasing the threads on the old prop nut. I flew several(7) packs to test it and it has held up great so far. It also breaks down nice and small. The handles unscrew from the tap and die mounts. It comes as a kit with M3 to M12 taps and does, as well as a thread gauge if you are unsure how coarse or fine your threads are. Here is a non affiliate link for the one I got from amazon. Tap and Die set
Get an extractor kit, something like this or this.
Considering where they drilled that hole, I don't see a problem with the frame.
An easy-out will probably back the broken bolt right out, and if it doesn't it can be drilled through easily enough. Or use Pclips on the seatstay to mount your rack. But the bike is fine, if you like it definitely don't ditch it.
https://www.amazon.com/Walton-Tools-18001-Tap-Extractor/dp/B0006NGGCM
It's excessive, I know, but I replace my studs anytime I pull off the exhaust. I keep 4 brand new ones on hand at all times, just in case. They're cheap and it's a helluva lot easier than removing broken ones later.
Edit: if you can't get the other but off, you can try a tool like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XSCDEA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_27PWybYYGBGK1
I feel like a broken record because I've recommended this thing several times now, but it sure made the job super simple when I needed it.
https://www.amazon.com/Screw-Extractor-10Pc-Easy-Handed/dp/B00BJSAFH0
Since you'll only be using it once you could cheap out with this one from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Right-Hand-Thread-Die-TPI/dp/B008BDIGM2
Like u/555-comeonnow said, if it is just a regular lug nut, get a cheap 4 way. If it happens to be a locking/security lug nut and you don't have the key you can buy removal tools (you can find individual ones too) that you hammer on and it digs in when you turn counter-clockwise allow you to take it off. (Just FYI the two pack of reverse thread removal sockets sold at Advanced Auto and O'Reilly were too large for the lug nuts on my Jeep.) I just had to do the same to my spare the other day.
Did this a few months ago on my E150... same bolt broke on mine. Mine was seized into the timing cover and I had to cut the timing cover off.
After you get the water pump off, try heating it and using a vice grip or a bolt extractor like this. Hopefully yours isn't seized like mine and you don't have the extra expense of the timing cover like me.
Also make life easier on yourself or the next guy and put a little anti-seize on the bolts when putting everything back together.
For that price you won't get anything high-end, but you could get a decent Irwin set.
IRWIN Tools 76 Piece Machine Screw/Fractional/Metric Tap and Hex Die Super Set (26376) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000EI9AW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FjGyybPP6KVMF
> Thank you for calling me a good pen maker.
That is a label you brought on yourself :)
> However the next thing i want to get is a thread gauge.
One of the basic flip out style, like https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stainless-Degree-Thread-Measuring-Imperial/dp/B07D9MNDL6 ? Those are invaluable as you try and figure things out, I also like these https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gunson-77106-Universal-Thread-Gauge/dp/B005I51BX2 for having hanging above the lathe.
But you have your priorities in the right spot, get a lathe sorted and then move on to other things!
You can rent or buy a pipe threader and then sell it https://www.amazon.ca/Plumber-Threading-Threader-Tapping-Forming/dp/B07NL5DGMX
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PLN1MTM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1ljjDbPQD5JZX
I was referring to these, they go around the tap and screw out
Whenever I've restored bikes I've gone and bought stainless steel Allen head bolts, using a screwdriver to measure length and one of these for the gauge and pitch.
Cycle heating it with a torch and soaking in penetrating oil then use a stud extractor.
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002INQORU/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1522633433&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=stud+extractor
Small screw extractor should also do the trick.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001ACMFRI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MEyXDb785P53E
Last resort if you cant find a key or borrow one. These will work, done it several times. But they will basically destroy the lock.
You can try to remove the stud using a stud extractor you may have to cut the nut off with your dremel to get it to bite, then replace the stud.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HBDW48/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482819634&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=gearwrench+tap+and+die+set&dpPl=1&dpID=515KyUwvZzL&ref=plSrch
Few dollars over budget, but I've heard good things about this set, no personal experience however
These seldom work, but they’re worth a try
Walton Tools 18001 Tap Extractor Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006NGGCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7aohAbXKTTKAM
Probably going to need something like this.
http://www.amazon.com/Alden-8530P-Grabit-Damaged-Remover/dp/B000ETLK7O
or
http://www.amazon.com/Easy-Out-Screw-Extractor-Set/dp/B0002SDAIY
They're good quality, but usually not worth the price when you compare them to non-tool truck brands. Most of the Snap On stuff I have I bought used. Like the tap and die set, it's virtually identical to other sets (like this Irwin), but it costs $400+. I bought it "used" from someone for $200. A lot of the tool truck tools are like this, either made by OTC or some other company and rebranded for their brand.
But the Snap On ball joint press really is far far far better than any other ball joint press out there. Most use a series of stepped plates and hollow cylinders and you have to balance them while you align it over the ball joint, but the SO set has a circlip on every cup so it snaps together and holds itself while you get everything situated.
A lot of the time it's just little niceties in the tools that set the truck brands apart. For example, SO makes their own modified version of the Airlift coolant filling system. It's about $75 more, but it has a + adapter rather than a T adapter, so you don't have to remove the vacuum to install the filler hose.
So that's intriguing, but it's important to note two things which you can read in the first review of it. One is that it doesn't include the alignment die that the Park has, so you either need to rig something to keep it square or risk having your threads cockeyed and applying pressure to the bearing unevenly.
The other is that it's not made for bikes specifically and, at least according to that review, cuts deeper threads than is standard for a headset. That means that you have weakened your steerer, perhaps too much if it doesn't have a lot of extra thickness.
Less important, but the die is from merlintools. The $40.74 is for combining that with a handle from Grizzly. Nothing wrong with that--if you combine it with a handle from Merlin it totals $73.98.
A classic, neat and cheap trick!
And if you ever encounter a truly stuck screw borrow or buy one of these kits. You'll be extracted in just a few seconds. :)
I dunno. Aero doesn't really offer anything that you can't DIY pretty easily other than finish and I do like to rattlecan guns. As soon as we replace the oven in the kitchen, that might be migrating out to the garage to see if I want to get into Cerakote.
> The intergrated trigger guard is really nice
I like the ability to pick and choose, but I usually default to MagPul plastics.
> threaded bolt catch is a god send of making the hardest part of the lower build the easiest
Knipex flat jaw pliers for all the roll pins makes it super simple.
> I like the set screw in the back
4-40 tap and tap wrench along with a phat sack of these. If you chop a couple coils off the safety detent you can tap and thread that for the same screws as well.