Best tire repair tools according to redditors
We found 670 Reddit comments discussing the best tire repair tools. We ranked the 207 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 670 Reddit comments discussing the best tire repair tools. We ranked the 207 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
I actually keep a core removal tool in my bike kit.
For legal reasons, I have certainly NEVER removed the cores from the tires of cars that habitually park in motorcycle parking and leave them taped to the driver's window with a note.
You know, never done that ever.
They're valve cores for Schrader valve stems (car/some bicycle tires)
You can pull the valve cores out of the valve stems, or just loosen them so they leak. You aren't actually damaging anything like slashing the tire, but you are still going to ruin their day, and they will most likely be too stupid to know what the problem is. They will get a tow to a tire shop. If the tire shop realizes they are dumbasses, they should screw them from there. The tool is at every parts store or walmart. I keep one in the car.
https://www.amazon.com/Slime-20088-4-Way-Valve-Cores/dp/B0020T17J2?keywords=valve+core+tool&qid=1537325242&sr=8-8&ref=sr_1_8
That's a Tire Thumper
Sold as a way to "check tires". Really just an excuse to carry a weapon.
https://www.amazon.com/Slime-20088-4-Way-Valve-Cores/dp/B0020T17J2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=valve+stem+tool&qid=1564857167&s=gateway&sprefix=valve+stem+&sr=8-3
Valve stem removal tool is cheap.
It's all about disposals, tools do nothing to help you if you don't have replacement parts or parts to rig something up. Mostly my kit is used to limp my unreliable "fun" car home if I break down. I would never do extensive work on the side of the road (too dangerous), and I very rarely need to have an actually mechanic do anything (hence why it breaks down a lot) so I don't want to pay to have it towed to a shop.
To start: zipties, duct tape, metal compression bands, electrical (fuses, wire nuts, crimps, tape etc.), and I carry some common problem bolts.
One of my recent 'creative' fixes to a broken weld
Edit: One other recommendation - buy a cheap kit for patching flat tires like this I've used this more than most of the tools in my cars, mostly on friends' vehicles (it's really impressive to someone non-mechanically inclined that you can fix a flat so easily). But mostly it's because I'm spoiled and don't like changing tires without an impact gun and a lift, so I'd rather just repair the flat on the vehicle then put a spare on.
Bead Jack changed my life, bro. You can't afford not to buy it.
I've created a short list of everything I have, linked items are the ones that I recommend.
Things for the road
Frame/ Mini pump
Saddle Bag
Patch Kit
Tire Boot (You can make your own for cheap, but these are still good)
Tire levers (See Multi-Tool, Levers Included)
Multi Tool (Super-Recommend)
Bike Lights
Spare Tubes (Optional for the road)
Bottles of choice
Sunglasses of choice
Gloves of choice (Important! For preventing impossible-to-heal palm scrapes)
Cycling compter
U Lock (no cable locks! they're garbage) <<I Have 3 of these, but then again, I live in Oakland.
Things for home
Floor pump
Tools (Pretty much covered by Multi-Tool, but there's things you may need like cassette tool, chain whip, etc)
Wet and Dry chain lube
Clothing (Optional, I only have the shoes and windbreaker)
Hi-Vis Jacket
Clipless shoes, I recommend SPD for easier walking
Jersey
Padded Shorts, or Bib shorts
Windbreaker
Leg Warmers
Most importantly, you need knowledge of cycling. Look up videos on youtube about safe riding on the road, traffic laws, hand signals, how to repair your bike on the road and at home, how to take a fall, and as much theory that you can)
EDIT: Do not let me trick you into thinking that a multi-tool is a replacement for the big-boy tools that are available on the market. Some of those tools are actually worth the investment. However, be that as it may, do your research first, because there's some overpriced crap out there ^^^Park ^^^Tools.
Dude, go to pep boys and grab a pack of those beef jerky things. Keep a set of pliers in the car. If you hit a nail or anything like that, just yank it out, stick the sharp stick in the hole a few times, then stick the beef jerky thing in the hole with the other stick. These things have saved me from having to go to a shop for a new tire probably about two dozen times in five years of driving.
Don't slash his tires. Purchase one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BQHABMS/ref=pd_aw_sims_1?pi=SS115&amp;simLd=1&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51lF5Yg0jlL
You can pull all 4 valve stems out. He'll immediately lose all tire pressure and you didn't actually damage any property. But you inconvenienced the shit out of him.
Look easily repairable.
Go to AutoZOne / ORiley or whateve rbox store auto store you have nearby and but a plug kit.
https://smile.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K
Dig out whatever it is, ream the hole with tool in kit, insert plug with other tool, cut off excess plug material.
I don't carry a tire, but I do carry a tire boot. That plus two tubes and a tube patch kit should do it.
Ok, after four months with the car, here goes...
&#x200B;
Charging
Tesla OEM
Detailing
Third-Party
https://www.amazon.com/Slime-20088-4-Way-Valve-Cores/dp/B0020T17J2
In my area, at least, none of the shops will patch a tire. Fix it yourself.
Get yourself one of these. I've had the best luck with this kind of patch kit.
http://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-A-Tire-Plug-Kit/dp/B000ET525K
Pull the screw out, then shove the reamer into the hole to open it up a bit. Rough it up a bit.
Take one of the gummi worms, and put it through the hole in the plug insertion tool. Make sure it is centered. Put some rubber cement on it. RAM it in to the hole, making sure that you don't push the gummi worm all the way through. Pull the tool out. The worm should stay there.
Put 10 psi of air in the tire and let it sit for a bit. Trim the gummi worm down so that the bits that stick out are below the tread. After an hour or so, fill the tire. Check for leaks and repeat if necessary.
Edit: the patch kit doesn't have to be motorcycle specific. I bought a truck tire patch kit at the local Shuck's.
That's a reamer from a tire repair kit.
Here's one on Amazon.
Any multi tool from CRANKBROTHERS or Topeak will be good. For the love of GOD don't buy a cheap multi tool for your friend. Cheap tools are made poorly with low quality metals that will end up stripping your friends components. I don't care how well that POS WOTOW tool is reviewed, the positive reviews never used it. The WOTOW tool stripped more than one of my bolts before I bought an Alien II. Your friend will want to buy some high quality tools for his home use later though. $15 would only buy a few quality home tools.
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If your friend uses tubes you could get a REMA patch kit for him. If your friend is tubeless you could get him a plug kit. I've never had a tubeless tire so I've no idea what plug kits are good/bad.
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One suggestion from past experience, buy a tire plug kit like this or this. If your area is hit by a serious storm there will be roofing nails and other debris on the roads. The plugs will usually do a good job with nail punctures and it's easy to do.
That person would have come out to four flat tires. I keep a tool in my car for such occasions. It removes the pin inside the valve where you air up the tire. And once its removed, no matter how much you fill it up it will just empty out just as quick. Its a major pain in the ass to deal with. And doesn't damage the tires at all.
For the lazy... http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BQHABMS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1463504765&amp;sr=1-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=tire+valve+core+remover&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41sWM7cwcJL&amp;ref=plSrch
Standard emergency gear (triangles/flares, space blankets, water, etc)
Some decent USB charge ports
A USB jump start battery if you want the ability. Also useful for jumping the Tesla if your 12V battery dies (supposedly this problem is fixed).
No spare tire in the Model S, so you may want a Fix-a-flat kit (or pay $20 more for one with a Tesla logo on it). If you prefer no goo in your tire, an old school tire repair kit is also an option for punctures in the treadwall (not in the sidewall, unfortunately).
Lots of neat Tesla-specific accessories out there. Lighted front T, add-on coat hooks (if you care about their absence), dash cams, etc.
The official unofficial delivery checklist also has a bunch of good advice.
I keep a pump like this in my trunk so I can inflate without going to the gas station.
Edit: Just to clarify, you can use the compressor without the slime.
They make a tool for it
In case anyone wants to pick one up to keep in their glovebox for, emergencies... here's the one I have.
You can't predict every failure, but this will fix most major issues enough to get you to a shop or a safe place to work. Give the Jeep a once over, front to back, left to right. Drive it at highway speeds for 30 minutes and source out any shakes, squeaks, rattles, buzzes, etc.
Hope this helps.
just get a plug kit: https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K
And air pump: https://www.amazon.com/Cartman-compressor-Portable-Inflator-Storage/dp/B00OZHRS36/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473685575&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=12v+air+compressor&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A2911368011%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_three_browse-bin%3A5648814011%2Cp_72%3A1248861011
You'll be better off.
Just buy another bike at this point. There's no fixing that.
There are two ways to fix a puncture: plug or patch. A patch is generally done at a shop and involves removing the tire from the wheel, applying a patch to the inside of the tire, and remounting the tire. This is definitely the strongest fix.
Since this is the DIY subreddit, you're probably interested in the second method, which is the plug.
I have plugged many tires myself, and I've never had one fail, even after years and thousands of miles.
It's super easy to do and a great DIY skill to have. Recently my friend was stuck with a flat tire, and the lug nuts were torqued on so tight we couldn't get the tire off to put on the spare. Since I had my plug kit and 12V air compressor, I plugged the leak with the tire on, filled the tire back up, and he was on his way 10 minutes later.
Hope this helps.
Nano is a fairly unusual MTB tire in the lack of pronounced cornering knobs, but it does have a central ridge that increases speed and knobs are much less fine than popular XC racing tires, so good durability. Seems like it's optimised most for gravel/dirt fire road kind of terrain and would be a solid choice if you aren't bothered about ability to corner aggressively on twisty bikepark style trails - which in a race as long as the Tour Divide I can't imagine being much of a factor.
Imo it would be a solid choice for something like the rail trail route.
With regards to tubeless, I don't use an air compressor, just a basic track pump. There's more than one technique to install tubeless tires, the most well known one does make things hard without an air compressor, but there's a couple of alternate techniques that take a little longer that make it consistently possible with a regular pump. I use this one, main difference is you use a tire lever to seat the bead of the tire as much as possible before starting to inflate, this makes much less air leak out so it seats easier.
However, I will say that in my experience if something does go wrong on the trail it's a real mess and with a minipump it would be difficult to get them to seat whatever technique you use.
The simple solution to that is to carry a spare tube like if you were riding tubed tires, if something goes wrong you just fall back to running an inner tube rather than trying to fix the tubeless system on the trail. Also carry a boot as if you get a puncture with tubeless chances are the hole in the tire will be big enough to need booting.
https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K
https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K
treadwear looks a little low but to your first point: a tire worm has no effect on the tire's function and if done properly (ie you cleaned the hole first with the included tool) itll last the lifespan of the tire.
Slime 1034-A T-Handle Tire Plug Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ET525K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1tyzCbDGD6YV7
My bead jack. Ever struggle to get a tire on or off? This is magic.
https://www.amazon.ca/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K
http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K
I had a Conti/CR-18 pairing that was truly awful. It ate tire levers for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Thankfully it rarely flatted. Sometimes I'd take it to a shop to get flats fixed just so I didn't have to deal with it. I'd service the bearings but somebody else can fix the flat at their usual rate thankyouverymuch. Mechanics complained. We got into discussions about rim sizes. It was all labeled 622. Anyway, that jack makes it easy. You'll have the tire back on in under a minute.
Some bike shops will have them for sale.
Just don't let the velominati see it.
This tire bead jack has saved me so much effort.
I carry this one: https://www.amazon.com/Stop-Go-1001-Pocket-Plugger/dp/B001BBSD9C
Fits under my back seat (barely). Haven't had to use it yet but got it based on the reviews. Hope that helps!
Height should be your biggest concern.
I'm 5'11", with kinda short legs, too. I couldn't ride this bike if it were any higher. You can get lowering links, and a different seat, and you should be OK - right about where I'm at, but it may never be "like a glove" comfortable.
It will totally get the city job done. Little box on the back, and you're good to go. When they hit potholes, and nearly lose it, you'll float over like nothing. Mine is a daily commuter and a weekend warrior. There is nothing this bike won't do "pretty ok".
Riding is riding. Unless you're trying to keep up with people doing 80+, you'll be just fine. The bike is as much fun as any other bike on the street at <60mph. I've ridden with groups of guys on harleys, groups of older guys on Can-Am and Goldwing trikes, adventure bike groups, groups of kids on dirtbikes, families on atvs, and in giant packs of streetbikes on weekend evenings.
Travelling far distance ... don't do it unless you're comfortable on a bike already. Riding for hours on end can play tricks with your concentration and whatnot. If you must, and you're not that experienced, plan on a 15-20 minute break for every hour riding. Just do it.
Here's some shit that I learned the hard way:
Change the oil/filters before you go, and check the plug. Check your air filter after 1000 miles of highway/trail. Plan your trip to avoid interstate. You will be much more relaxed on smaller highways, and you won't have as many trucks and their drafts to contend with. Calculate your gas mileage at every fillup. Little problems can show up as dropping mileage before they become big problems. Put some flat stop in your tubes. Give the tires a push check before starting every time. Bring rain riding gear, and hope you don't need it. Get a throttle lock. Either a good one or a cheap one. The KLR will vibrate your hands numb, you will need to get your hand off the bars for a bit. Wear a camelback water bag. A good GPS/phone mount that offers visibility without having to look away from the road is really nice when going through unfamiliar towns. Make sure you have a usb charger if you don't have a 12v socket. for your gps/phone on the bike. Carry extra cheap eye protection. One of those ATV seat pads can help if you get a sore ass easily. Don't beeline it to your destination - make a point to include a side-trip up a mountain or something as often as you can.
I think you'll end up liking the bike, and you'll end up going on that "adventure" ride sooner than you think :)
Lanesplitting is as easy as you want it to be, with no panniers. It starts to get hairy above 60, because after that the KLR just doesn't have the instant go that you need to zip through smaller spaces. So at those speeds, you're more like a cruiser bike. But at city speeds, once you've been in the saddle a few months, it feels really small in traffic.
I apologize for being that guy, but you really don't want to use those emergency tire kits that inject a foam into the inside of the tire. It may help you get back on the road, but it will do serious damage to your wheel inside, often times eating away the wheel's finish. It'll also harden and have to be scraped/chiseled off when you swap out the tire, not to mention throw off your wheel's balance in the meantime.
I carry one of these Amazon link which works perfectly when you run over something like a nail. You'll still need some sort of air pump, but I've used them several times on sport bike tires and car tires, and they've always held up. I actually left one in a rear tire on my CBR for almost six months until I bought a new tire. It never leaked any air, and the balance wasn't thrown off all that much.
tl;dr: Emergency tire foam does permanent wheel damage. Tire jerky is the goods.
Edit: Picture of inner wheel damage from fix-a-flat
Had a post like this awhile ago with more insight for those who care...
I guess I can repost my own post:
I do this kind of thing as a part time job for CDOT (Colorado Dept of Transportation) when I want extra money to buy something stupid, so I have some good insight as to what gets people stuck.
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>An extra belt and a breaker bar big enough to move the tensioner.
I mean, I don't carry an extra belt, but I'm pretty good about checking wear on it every few weeks or so. However, a breaker bar is definitely definite definitely recommended. It's most useful for wheel lugs, but it'll work on a belt tensioner too.
>Spare hose clamp for if you blow a radiator hose off/ intake hose/ turbo hose/ whatever. They cost like nothing (literal cents), but when you need it you need it. You ain't going anywhere with no air intake/ turbo intake/ coolant hose.
>Bottle jack? instead of the stock scissor jack?
No you don't need a full size floor jack.
If you have a regular passenger car (like a 4 door car) the scissor jack will work fine. They are kind of tedious to jack up and down but it's for an emergency, not everyday use. The bottle jack is a good idea for large SUV, Trucks, and RVs. Make sure you have a base or something on it if you have any sort of lift. Also remember that you will have to jack up much further to install the inflated tire than you had to for the flat one.
Only other advice I have here is actually pull that jack out and figure out how to use it. They all gotta be different and some are like oragami in how this click into that, which slides onto that... Reading the user manual and deciphering the IKEA-esque pictures on the side of the road just adds frustration and stress to the already crappy situation.
>Fix-a-flat kit
Meh. A spare tire is the better option. Make sure you check it's inflated at least every couple months. It's very very common that people have a spare, but that its flat. It does you no good as a spare if it's flat. A tire plug kit a definitely a good thing though. If you do HAVE to use the fix a flat, prepare to have a tire shop guy charge you twice when they find it all over the wheel. It's a nightmare to clean off, and as others have said will ruin you TPMS sensor. Depending on the make/model of your car this could be another $35 to $100 you have to spend, in addition to a new tire.
>Lights! and flares
(Ignore the guy in the comments that said lights are only emergency vehicles. He has no idea what he's talking about)
For an emergency kit, flares are better since they don't require batteries (that you will forget to change/ charge). However, lots of road flares last 30 - 60 minutes. It should take you 20 to change a flat. Be careful with the flares as many types drip as they burn. Don't light yourself or the side of the road on fire. I know you're thinking "well duh" but it happens every year in CO where I live. Someone lights the brush on fire near the highway cause they put flares out and got to fixing their car and not paying attention.
That said, you can get LED road flares that are bright and really good at attracting attention. Look up the laws in your area. Some places restrict the color you can use. Amber (orange) is usually a pretty safe color to choose. If you can get on that has more than one color, it's better. Monochromatic light doesn't give people good depth perception. Avoid as much as possible bright white strobes facing rearward. All you're going to do is blind the people you are trying not to get hit by.
> Screwdriver set with misc bits
Like others have said, this won't be super useful for your car, but for various other tasks it can be a huge time/ money/ aggravation saver to just have basic tools for random things. Ever tried to get a hose clamp off with just your fingers? You just have to remember to put those tools back in the kit. You don't need Snap Off for this as they likely won't get used that much. Don't get the cheapest ones at Harbor Freight either. Get the " pittburgh professional" ones.
> Socket set?
You can get the set if you want to, but at a minimum get the socket that fits your lugs. Get the drive size that fits the breaker bar you got from above (likely 1/2"). When I do this for work I had a cordless impact driver which was awesome, but a breaker bar doesn't require you to remember to charge batteries, and I haven't found anyone that just wasn't strong enough to use one. A breaker bar is like $15. Cordless impact driver powerful enough is like $250+.
>Glass Breaker/ Hammer
Honestly, you'd be better off with a spring loaded center punch. You have to have room to swing the hammer, and some people (elderly, children) just don't have the strength to hit the window hard enough. With the center punch, you just touch it to the glass and push until it clicks. Many cops and firefighters use these as a means to get you out. If you go this route, have a seat belt cutter, pocket knife, something...
>Fire Extinguisher
It's better if you mount this somewhere where it wont get buried. My favorite place is honestly the trunk lid or right in front of the taillight area in a car, under one of the seats for a SUV or truck (if you can easily flip it up). Imagine yourself suddenly panicking and thinking holy goddamn s**t my car is on fire, and scrambling to get to your extinguisher. Put it somewhere you can scramble to easy. If it takes longer than 10 seconds, its not accessible enough.
> A little portable air compressor
can really help if you get a flat and have a flat spare. Not necessary but sure is nice. You can use it for other things too (blowing up sports balls air mattresses etc...). They usually take FOREVER to fill a tire, but if you're stuck anyway...
>Roll of duct tape (because obviously).
I've used it to tape up bumpers after an accident so they can at least get off the road, to secure wiring, to a whole number of other things.
>Spare fluids.
Maybe. Gallon of coolant or distilled water at least. quart of oil, etc... This also depends on where you normally drive. If you never leave the city and a parts store is usually a couple blocks away then you don't have to bother. If you live outside the city and it would take you the entire afternoon to walk the next 15 miles to the store...well, plan accordingly.
> Tire pressure gauge.
To check main and spare tires. Don't trust the ones on the gas station pump (they get slammed around and scraped on the ground). I've seen them as inaccurate as 15 - 20 p.s.i. off.
> Jumper cables.
Better yet, your own jump pack.. Jumper cables are only useful if someone else is there to rescue you.
> A tow strap
is kinda nice, but if you're stuck and there's nobody else around it won't help you (unless you have a winch/ come-along). Nothing wrong with having one handy in case someone comes along though.
> Tire chains.
Don't know where you live but in CO there is actually a new (ish) chain law for passenger vehicles. When it's in effect you are supposed to have chains (or alternative traction device) in place. It's not just for truckers anymore. I take them out in the summer.
> A shaker siphon
Makes transferring fuel way way way way way less infuriating than dealing with the stupid friggin gas cans you have to buy nowadays. All the silly safeties and valves, it's like playing goddamn BopIt. They also work for coolant and washer fluid too, not that you would be dumping gallons of washer fluid... How to use it I don't carry a fuel container in my truck with me, but FYI it's illegal (in the US at least) to transport fuel in anything other than an approved fuel container. I doubt you'll get in trouble, just something to consider.
Try a park tool tire boot. Best option if you want to get a little more life out of the tire.
On the x-posted thread someone was asking about gear load out... so thought I'd put it here as well..
In the saddle under the seat:
In the snack bag on the top tube:
On my person:
As for clothes at work, I have a locker so stock up once a week on them.. and also keep toiletries at work. HTH!
I have this one and really like it. It lets me transfer all the goods from one bike to another easily.
What I have in mine:
I love this tire bead jack. It only gets used about 3-5 times a year for changing flats and switching from snow tires to summer tires, but with super tight beads on my Schwalbes, it is a necessity.
https://www.amazon.ca/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K
I have something similar and I also have a compact 12 VDC air compressor.
The kit I have uses the plugs shown in your post and also has some rather large mushroom shaped plugs. Those large mushroom plugs saved my ass in Kentucky. I had a blow out at 80 MPH loaded for a trip with a passenger. The hole in my tire was really large, too big for the string type plugs. I patched it up with the mushroom plug and it held air enough to get off the freeway and to a hotel. The sidewalls were trashed pretty bad and the bike wobbled all over the place, but it was good enough for a few miles.
The next day I was able to find a dealership close by to have a new tire installed.
I used a kit with plugs similar to these: http://www.amazon.com/Stop-Go-1001-Pocket-Plugger/dp/B001BBSD9C/ref=sr_1_33?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465239804&amp;sr=8-33-spons&amp;keywords=motorcycle+tire+repair+kit&amp;psc=1
For nationwide roadside assistance, I've been really pleased with Coach-Net. AAA is regional and there's some reports on the RV forums that there can be issues outside of your region.
I've also had great luck with this multi-purpose inflator. I use it on tires, air beds, and to inflate my stand up paddle boards with a DIY adapter.
It's a good idea to carry a valve tool and some extra valve cores too.
Weird shit will break when you're in a hurry or in the middle of nowhere, or when the local weirdo takes an interest in you!
Similarly, how many people just neglect when there's something clearly wrong with the tire's ability to hold air. I don't know how many times I'll be driving and be behind like a '95 Bravada or an '01 Malibu or something and have to comment to myself "motherfucker your left rear is practically flat. Go fix that shit before it blows and you spin out."
Personally, I keep one of those digital pressure gauges in my car. That one I linked isn't even $10. I check all my tires once a month, it takes like 2 minutes.
/u/keylime503 is spot on. Even if it is the law. Even if it is your right, why waste your time and potentially hurt your car just cause that's how its supposed to work.
Pickup an inexpensive gauge like this one
http://smile.amazon.com/Accutire-MS-4021B-Digital-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00080QHMM
(or this one if you're old-school like me http://smile.amazon.com/TireTek-Flexi-Pro-Pressure-Gauge-Motorcycle/dp/B00XPL88NC/)
and you're good to go. Keep it in your trunk or glovebox.
for the completely gas station free experience, pickup your own compressor.
$20 http://smile.amazon.com/LifeLine-AAA-300-Volt-Compressor/dp/B000SL4AA2/
$45 if you're into overkill like me http://smile.amazon.com/Viair-00073-Heavy-Portable-Compressor/dp/B0012WHBSO
And you're done.
I've got a $10 compressor in the trunk of my wife's car just so I never have to worry about it when we take hers on road trips... but I wouldn't recommend something this cheap for most of you (for me its 3rd behind a 5gallon craftsman shop compressor and one of the $50 ones above)
http://smile.amazon.com/ABLEGRID®-Portable-Compressor-Inflator-Adaptors/dp/B015YZJ7KY/
Lock your doors while there and bring your own pressure gauge.
I use a digital gauge. It's easier to see at night/low light and I find it easier to take repeat measurements.
https://www.amazon.com/Accutire-MS-4021B-Digital-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00080QHMM
Rain gear
Hydrate and trail mix
A throttle lock
https://www.amazon.com/Go-Cruise-Motorcycle-Throttle-Control/dp/B00TIEATVY/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=motorcycle+cruise+control&qid=1566491759&s=gateway&sr=8-14
Go around your bike and look at every fastener. Get the tool that is required and put it in your tool bag
A dry sack
https://www.amazon.com/Earth-Pak-Waterproof-Dry-Bag/dp/B01GZCUDC6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=dry+sack&qid=1566491799&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExWEdHN1JXMjc3S1NUJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDY4ODExMjFEUTQxSEFXUU5OQyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjE1MTQwMTFaNUFWOVBPVUs2RSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
&#x200B;
Attach it with Rok Straps
https://www.amazon.com/ROK-Straps-ROK-10050-Black-Reflective/dp/B00JAKIEAY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=rok+straps&qid=1566491879&s=gateway&sr=8-3
A tire patch kit. Won't help if your tire is flat, an electric pump is nice, but room is limited for you. Hand pump?
https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=tire+plug+kit&qid=1566492644&s=gateway&sr=8-7
https://www.myrouteapp.com/routelab is a good way to lay out routes and download to a motorcycle specific GPS. You may not need this. When we do trips, I lay out the route and share the folder with friends and they can download from this site and upload to their GPS. Did I mention you may not need this.
Don't go full digital on anything. Maps etc. Buy an atlas, cut out the states you're going through and highlight your planned path. Now put states that are near each other on opposite sides (Kansas on one side, Missouri on the other side) and go to OfficeMax and laminate it. Make them a size that will fit in your tank bag map pouch.
There is no such thing as too much gas. There is such a a thing as too little. These don't suck.
https://www.amazon.com/Lixada-Outdoor-Camping-Kerosene-Alcohol/dp/B0116HTH18/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=gas+bottle&qid=1566492147&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyUTdCWU8yVU9JU1hWJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTIwNjQ5MlVRUEdBRjBGMDFEUCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTQ2MDA3MVVQNjFHVk9UWDJXQyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Motrin on the regular
Alternate foot position! Highway pegs are great.
Start with brand new tires. Hopefully they will last the entire trip, because you're looking at about 4k or more miles.
Battery Brick
https://www.amazon.com/20000mAH-Portable-Comkes-External-Smartphone/dp/B07F2YPBD2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=battery+brick&qid=1566492328&s=gateway&sr=8-5
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This is or something like it for the various stuff you may need to charge at night in the motel room.
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Charger-Foldable-PowerPort-Samsung/dp/B00VH8G1SY/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=USB+charger+multiport&qid=1566492374&s=gateway&sr=8-8
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Plan your stops and check out the reviews of the motels before hand. When I roll into a town, I pull over (when I have cell signal) and open Google Maps and type "motels in town X" and start looking at prices and reading reviews.
Before you pay, ask the rate and ask to see a room. If it's a dump, you don't have to get your money back. Ask me how I learned this was a good way to go.
Get an early start. Don't ride past dark. You better be riding in the warm, I assume you don't have heated gear. Colorado is cold at altitude, especially after dark, even in the summer.
Get a balaclava.
Ear plugs!!!!
Did you use something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K
here bro hope this helps
Just yell "TEAM CAR!"
Seriously though, I pack C02. If the existing sealant can't fix it, I toss in a tube and go. I also pack a Park Tire Boot in case of a sidewall cut.
I've had great results in the past using this bicycle tube repair kit.
it should be able to handle tears on flat surfaces no problem, not sure about tears along seams.
Obligatory get a bead jack post.
(I use nylon levers on my alloy rims.)
Steel Tire Lever or the Kool Stop Tire Jack.
Kool Stop Tire Bead Jack by Kool Stop http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AYML7K/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_L9Cvtb1WF831V
The tire jack will less likely scratch your wheel.
Are you sure the wheels are larger? Some tire manufacturers tend to make their beads a little tighter. Those tend to loosen a little bit with lots of riding.
I once got a set of new Vittorias that left blisters on both thumbs from my trying to get them on to my Mavics. The mechanic showed me a variation of one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K that he swore by.
I don't condone damage to other vehicles but this is why this is fantastic. One front tire, one rear tire. Opposite sides.
Yep. For a mere $2 you can have a tool for all asshole parkers.
Buy this, patch your own tire. Feel like a man.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002I52RG0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yMBlDbSXXSQEZ
The standard way for off-road trucks is a core remover like this:
https://www.amazon.com/ARB-ARB505-E-Z-Deflator-Orange/dp/B004LQCDOA
If you need faster than that you'll need to have a vacuum pump on the outlet to suck the air out. Or connect to some sort of pre-evacuuated tank, could use an empty propane tank that you've evacuated.
Here you go! I keep these in my bag, and remove 2 or 3 when they double park on my street.
Leave them a polite note informing them that the next time they do it you will remove their valve stem cores, which you should then duct tape to the sidewall of their tires for them to put back in at their leisure.
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Single-Valve-Remover-Repair/dp/B00BQHABMS/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=3047YSCEYR1YJEHJJ804
I know it's too late now, but I always carry one of these for those situations.
Well done on managing the clutchless ride though. When I was a skint student, I spent 4 months on a bike with no clutch cable. Fun times . . .!
You might also grab one of these, for obvious reasons. Driving on a flat isn't nearly as easy.
I cant recommend this kit enough
http://www.amazon.com/Stop-Go-International-Tubeless-1000/dp/B0006NE3KE
This is a paste from a response I had to a similar thread a while back that is relevant here too;
I am not recommending anyone plug a motorcycle tire, but here is what I did when I found a small screw in the center of the rear tire of my cbr250r.
It is plug patch that you install from the inside and pull outward seating the patch to the inside of the tire. The first picture is what it looks like from the inside. I think this is the only type of repair I would do on a motorcycle tire and I still consider it a temporary fix.
I rode on this for about 2 weeks while I waited for a replacement tire to arrive. It never lost air or gave me any hint of trouble but in the end I decided it wasn't worth the risk to save a few bucks on a new tire. I was more curious to see if it could be done.
I now keep a Stop & Go tire plug kit with the bike for emergency road side plugging, seems like the best design. I've tried it on a junk tire to see how it worked from the inside and looks like a solid design but I have yet to use it on an actual road use tire.
http://www.amazon.com/Stop-Go-International-Plugger-Tubeless/dp/B0006NE3KE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1373853537&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=stop+n+go+tire+plugger
You've got 10" tubeless tires. 10" diameter, 3.5" wide (3.5-10)
This sort of repair can be done with the wheel in place. You can get a much less expensive kit to do this. I've done this with car tires, though small scooter tires are more sensitive to balance issues than car tires, so replacing the tire is the best bet.
If you ever decide to get new tires, check out the Heidenau K61 or the less expensive Continental Zippy 1. If you want more grip, or ride in bad weather a lot, the Heidenau K58 are monsters.
likely a nail or screw in the tire. Driving can shear the head off and make it hard to see. A bead leak or valve leak tends to be annoying but a lot slower loss (like 20psi a week). Bring it to a tire shop or if you want to fix yourself you'll need to jack it up and remove the wheel, use a pliers to pull out the offending object, and as long as it's not near the edge of the tread you can plug it with this. It takes a bit of muscle to do.
First of all, I am glad you asked for advice, this is what this community is for, and some are just being friendly by making a little fun. It's really cool that you are planning this out and looking way in advance. I am also a 48 owner so I know what its like to have fuel anxiety. You are going to need layers, water, power bars and basic bike stuff . I have ridden in Arizona in the winter, and even though the sun is shining, 50's is very cold once you factor in the wind from motorcycle riding.
Power bars and trail mix are fine for quick energy and keeping the belly from grumbling.
Now you need fuel reserves, I carry a larosa bag with a small can and add a bigger cans depending on how nervous I am about fuel consumption. I have been stuck on the side of the road on highway 10, 40 miles west of blythe, and it sucks. Do not store these on the wive's backpack. Get some cheap fuel bottle holders
So I would do two things from here until November.
Find a way to get your bike ready to be more of a pack mule. And get your wife more seat time, and maybe a gel pad?
You can get cheap bags at revzilla
Best of luck and post some pictures!
I keep a Slime pump and a plug kit under my seat. It has come in handy more than once and it was a major life savor being far from home.
Buy one of these and a small 12v air compressor. This + a little muscle will be adequate to handle 99% of tire problems. Complete blowouts are rare and this would not be enough.
These patches (while a little hard to put in) will last the life of the tire. I've used a dozen on car and motorcycle tires.
Slime 1034-A T-Handle Tire Plug Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ET525K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HA1-ybYRG4MKE
It looks like a tool to plug tires. https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K
For that short of a ride, everything I've said here is relatively irrelevant... I misread your original post and thought you said "1000mi." You're just a quick drive from home, it's not that big of a deal for someone to pick you up in case of breakdown. :) I'd say you're being overly-cautious, but that's a good thing. I regularly do 300+ mile round-trips in one day that begin and end at my house with no prior preparations, or without packing anything said here, so you should be fine! Just remember to have fun and not worry too much...
Tire patch kits are all the same, but you can get this kit: http://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-A-Tire-Plug-Kit/dp/B000ET525K/ref=sr_1_17?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1333403186&amp;sr=1-17 from Wal-mart for less than that. I have a really old one that I pulled out of a wrecked car, but it looks the same. Slime makes good stuff, that kit will hold up. The inflaters are all the same too, just pick up the CO2 inflator that Slime makes when you get the patch kit. The patch is more to get you to a shop for a new tire, rather than to get you to your destination. I really don't recommend riding on a patched tire for any length of time.
What I usually pack when I go motorcycle camping (off the top of my head):
I generally ride until past dark, then just put up the tent at a public park and leave again at sunrise. No one will mess with you, and if they do, tell them where you're riding and where you're from (and that you did that on a scooter), and they'll usually not care and let you stay.
If you're on facebook, look up GASS (greater atlanta scooter society) or the Terminal Scooter Club. Both groups occasionally go on longish (~200mi) rides in a group. A group ride would be a good way to get your feet wet without any worry of getting stuck, alone, in the middle of nowhere. :D
Short of something obvious like around new construction where nails and screws falling off truck bumpers will be more common it's pretty much just random chance. If it keeps happening it might be worth buying yourself a tire plug kit like this and an inflator so you can fix it yourself. In the mean time call around and see if you can find a local tire shop that patches tires for free.
A piece of good duct tape on the inside would fix it. Keep is to be strong enough to keep the tube from pushing out. Here are also tire boots. She idea. Park Tool TB-2 Emergency Tire Boot (Pack of 3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YBGJRS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XYrkDbMQ4Q5YE
You probably want a tire boot instead.
You'd probably be much better off going Tubeless, keeping some Park Tool Emergency Tire Boots on hand, along with a good CO2 inflator.
The Tubeless Sealant will plug small holes, the Tire Boots will fix sidewall punctures and the CO2 inflator will make quick work of re-inflating. Just get real air in it when you get back home since CO2 permeates rubber faster than air.
And you don't have to remove the wheel.
Tire boot (whether store bought or a dollar bill), zip ties, no-tool chain quick link, duct tape.
I blew a fiver into fifty pieces trying to use it as a tire boot. Now I carry Park Tool emergency boots.
Replace your tires a little before you need to and you'll be fine.
Edit: http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-TB-2-Emergency-Tire/dp/B000YBGJRS
You're gonna need some tyre boots to fix your sidewalls.
Tire plugs, as others have mentioned. Also, a tire boot.
Links: tire boot plug kit
Better: https://www.amazon.com/Rema-Touring-Patch-Kit-Large/dp/B0016HSA4O/
Good call. I typically carry some of these...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IZGFCE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I also carry a patch kit...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016HSA4O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This video helped me with my technique: http://youtu.be/-XUFVrl0UT4 .
Also, the bead jack is supposed to help. Haven't tried it myself: http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K
Specialized tires do run small. They are the right size, just really tight. Kool stop makes a nice tool to help get these stubborn tires on.
http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack-Handle/dp/B001AYML7K
This video is a good one.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XUFVrl0UT4
BTW, you need the levers. Just go out and buy. It's not an expensive thing and very useful thing you can carry.
I suggest you to try without metal things to mount tires. If not careful, you end up cutting the tube. I've done pinch flatting the tubes a few times so this is from my experience.
If you must, try the bead jack.
https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K/ref=sr_1_31?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483489515&amp;sr=8-31&amp;keywords=tire+lever+bicycle
When I use the tire lever while mounting, I do double check the lever is not pinching the tube.
Oh man I know that frustration so well. You SHOULD be able to install a tire without levers, but I’ve gotten to the point where I’m covered in sweat and feeling like existence is hopeless trying to get that last little bit on. No need to get to that point if you don’t have to. this tool has been a lifesaver for me on those really tough ones
Do yourself a favor:
https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K
This right here was the answer to all of my prayers. You can mount anything on earth with this. Once you get used to it, it is even effortless.
Or if at home or touring (where it make sense to carry extra tools), use a tool like the Kool Stop Tire Bead Jack. Works very well. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001AYML7K/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_E8RXDbM907Q8X
These guys: http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/var-tyre-levers-prod27539/?currency=usd&amp;geoc=us&amp;changecurrency=usd
They are basically a portable version of the Kool Stop Tire Jack which allows you to get tight fitting tires such as the Schwalbe Marathon Plus or anything tubeless on without frustrations.
I'm surprised no one has mentioned a flat repair kit. Either fix a flat cans (usually need two) for tubed tires or plugs for tubeless. The plug kits are awesome and small http://www.amazon.com/Stop-Go-International-Tubeless-Plugger/dp/B001BBSD9C/ref=sr_1_29?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1381160933&amp;sr=1-29&amp;keywords=tire+plug+kit comes with co2 cannisters to fill it up.
I also carry a different set of glasses so I can switch from day to night riding, and a couple tools, rain gear if there is a chance of it.
I've answered various questions about this system and the install several times in the last two months. Since it's getting asked again I'm going to leave the info here for all to see :)
I installed this in my car 3 months ago. The soundbox can be had for right around $250.00 shipped from http://www.oempartsource.com/oe-volkswagen/000051419.
IMO, don't pay anyone. The install is DIY and very straightforward. If you have use of your hands and some trim tools, you can do this install in under an hour with ease, if I had to do it again, I could probably get it done in under 30 minutes. If you're located in the SF Bay Area I can even help you. I highly doubt the cable run would be "neater" if the dealership did it, they'll rush through it, and the cable can really only go one place nicely anyhow. Zip ties are included in the Helix box so you can secure it. I used a few extra that I had.
I followed this DIY (there are two parts):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?annotation_id=annotation_1401645911&amp;feature=iv&amp;src_vid=mtvFvXa2AaY&amp;v=6dKJtnaV9CU
The only specialty tools you need are:
Terminal removal tool (I'm told you can sub in a paperclip for this - I imagine if it's the right size it will work fine): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ZOMMT6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
and radio removal tools (I'm told you can make your own with old gift cards): https://www.amazon.com/Porsche-Volkswagen-Mercedes-Radio-Removal/dp/B007WUQUU0/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491250947&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=vw+radio+removal+tool
When I installed, I elected to ditch my spare instead of placing it on top of the soundbox (I did this initially but decided against it after the first month for space reasons - I have a kid) and I carry one of these in the trunk now: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DZFZPG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Lastly, once installed you will want to program the Sound Box DSP for use with your car. The product description states that the SoundBox unit is pre-programmed for the Golf/GTI. Trust me, it isn't (this is well documented on the GolfMK7 forums and elsewhere). So you want to rent the dongle for $35 here: http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19829 or go ask your local dealer if they'd do the programming for you at no charge. It literally takes under 2 minutes. Do not let them rape you at the dealer to program it.
Having done full systems with all new speaker wiring, component speakers, amp, DSP, and subs in cars when I was younger, I would say that at $250 the value on this thing is nothing short of amazing. It sounds pretty great. I also did sound deadening with SoundSkins Pro throughout the car.
Common sense is my everyday carry.
Generally keep a Tire thumper in my car, though that's a habit from my time as a truck driver more than anything.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KO84I0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_miJ0Ab56JBESB
I'll just leave this here.
I apologize in advance for this long post. None of these are "must gets", but they are what I got for my 2016 Premium forester. I'm posting this for my own future reference as well as to help some people who are wondering what accessories might be good for their new forester. I highly recommend ordering from Jackie from Annapolis Subaru @ 443-837-1422 as she can get you some good prices on the subaru accessories as well as WeatherTech products! I saved on WeatherTech shipping costs (~$20) by ordering through Jackie and the warranty is the same as if I had bought them through their website.
Please note that some of these accessory links are for my specific car year, model and configuration. I have a 2016 Premium forester without eyesight (affects the Covercraft/heatshield sunshade - they also have eyesight compatible sunshades!).
Also, I personally didn't get my windows tinted, but I think that is something that you should seriously consider doing :)
Speaker kit
Tweeter kit
WeatherTech DigitalFit floorliner (1st & 2nd row)
WeatherTech cargo/trunk liner (without bumper protector)
Weather Tech TechCare floorliner and floormat Cleaner/Protector Kit
Gorilla mud flaps
Covercraft's UVS100 sunscreen - use promo code FREESHIP
Exterior Auto Dimming Mirror w/ Approach Lighting
Luggage Compartment Cover (manual rear gate)
Rear bumper cover
Auto-Dimming Mirror with Compass and HomeLink
Rear Seat Back Protector
Two Home Depot 5 gallon homer bucket
Heatshield sunshade (driver/passenger, second row, rear windshield, sunroof) - note that their website only shows only one side window (driver/passenger), you need to call in to ask them to add the second row side window ones - on my invoice it says part #1425S-A and #1425S-B
Antigravity Batteries AG-XP-10 Multi-Function Power Supply and Jump Starter (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)
Viair 77P Portable Compressor Kit (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)
Amazon stuff:
EZ Pass Holder for VA Flex
Aux cable
Stickershield (parking stickers, etc)
Dropstop seat gap filler (driver/passenger side)
Door panel removal kit (for speaker kit install)
Two grit guards
Microfiber Drying towel
Microfiber cloths (3 pack)
Car wash shampoo
Wheel brush
Resqme (window breaker/seatbelt cutter)
Wheel cleaner
Microfiber wash mitt
Reindeer costume for Christmas
Headrest coat hanger
Road reflective triangles
Duct tape
Odor eliminator
Tire air pressure gauge
OBDII Scanner (Bluetooth)
First aid kit
I have the same Accord. 32 psi is what it will say on a sticker on your door.
I would recommend [an eletronic gauge] (https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-5941-Digital-Tire-Gauge/dp/B0037V0EW8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506455395&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=tire+gauge) or [a metal gauge] (https://www.amazon.com/Milton-S-921-Passenger-Tire-Gauge/dp/B0002SQYTG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506455395&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=tire+gauge).
The slime pen is fine too, but I heard they can be defective and they are made of cheap plastic.
I go to the local Bike Shop to top off my tire and use this 10 dollar tire pressure gauge.
I've been using a cheap digital one but interested to see what other responses you get. I love this little thing
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037V0EW8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
That link didn't work for me, but is it the same as this?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gear-Gremlin-GG170-Tyre-Repair/dp/B00CCE6100/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523017892&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=gear+gremlin+tyre+repair+kit&amp;dpID=51dmE0rCx7L&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Yes, most shops won't plug or touch a nail in the tire. Though, it's a PR5 I'm in the same boat just got those tires 4 months ago so I'd be thinking about avoiding $250+ if at all possible too.
Have you considered Ride On? Haven't tried it myself for balancing and that crap but people swear by it.
Also watch this - it's kind of amazing.
> http://www.amazon.com/Stop-Go-International-Tubeless-1000/dp/B0006NE3KE
That is the kit I keep, along with my tiny little compressor.
Have you used it?
Obviously the safest answer is to replace your tire. With that said, some have managed to go many thousands of miles using plugs on rear tires (specifically the temporary mushroom type plugs). Below is a link of a highly regarded temporary tire plug kit. THE NAIL MUST BE IN THE CENTER OF THE TIRE NOT ON THE SIDEWALL for this to work.
https://www.amazon.com/Stop-Go-1000-Pocket-Plugger/dp/B0006NE3KE/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521179487&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=stop+%26+go+tire+plugger
-Ideally if you can call around and find a mechanic to take off the tire and plug the inside of the puncture that would be a theoretically permanent and much more affordable fix than buying a new tire.
Mushroom plugs are supposed to be better than worm plugs. There is a really good kit you can pick up at some motorcycle shops from a company called "Stop N Go". I've done worm plugs and haven't had problems. Keep an eye on tire/plug between rides for anything abnormal.
I carry the mushroom plug kit now, and won't hesitate to plug tires and ride 1000s of more miles.
That you're camping in Australia reminded me of this recent post in which a blogger recommends this biker-focused swag tent. Seems to be a fair deal and while I have no experience with it the blogger reckons it's a good bit of kit as you Aussies might say ;-). Most likely you won't be borrowing your parent's tent. The car-camping type tents don't really get along well with motocamping. Sleeping bags and maybe the air mattress or sleeping pad are more likely, or a bit of cooking equipment. I'll throw out some random recommendations based on stuff I like and let you decide how it fits into your $500 =).
I find backpacking equipment seems to parallel motocamping equipment in many respects. You aren't as concerned about weight on the motorcycle, but you do need compact and reliable. You may want to consider a backpacker's inflatable sleeping pad, [this is the one I have] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANRW7DI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1). It's no mattress but it insulates you from the ground which helps keep heat in, and it provides a bit of cushion too. It will fit inside the swag, a hammock, or any compact backpacking tent, and it packs up small. I have this tent which legitimately sleeps two as long as you don't mind being close (tested with my girlfriend) and should fit a twin sized inflatable mattress which would be substantially more comfortable than the camping pad I linked above. To make an addition to your luggage, I can't recommend a tank bag enough. I have this tank bag which is truly a bargain and should fit any motorcycle.
I would also check out Aerostich's Camping Section for some ideas. Being that you're in Australia I'm not sure if you want to buy directly from them unless you can't find an item anywhere but their website, but there are tons of ideas you can get from their store that you might not find other places.
Now I'll just list off several items I can think of that I like to pack for motocamping (most are small and multi-functional items, and a few specific get-my-ass-out-of-a-jam things):
Tire plug kit, some way to put air back in the tire (compact air compressor, CO2 cartridges, bicycle pump, etc), several feet of 550 cord (AKA paracord), extra bungee cords, extra cargo net, zip ties, electrician's tape, heavy-duty trash bags (maybe 3 or 5), a small supplement to my bike's OEM tool kit & a multitool, a first aid kit that includes bug bite relief (and anything else you might want specific to the area you're traveling), a sam splint & triangle bandage, a couple ways to start a fire (waterproof matches stored in a watertight container & a cigarette lighter usually), one or two of those mylar emergency blankets, a little mild dish soap.
You might not feel the need to carry all that on a 3 day trip but a lot of it is small, cheap, and multi-funcitonal. Trash bags are to keep trash under control at camp and emergency waterproofing for gear/people, so you want the thick ones.
These links may help.
Step-by-step instructions, with images:
http://www.wikihow.com/Check-Air-Pressure-in-Tires
Tire pressure gauge ($13):
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00080QHMM
https://www.amazon.com/Accutire-MS-4021B-Digital-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00080QHMM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549038307&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=tire+pressure+accutire
This is one of the world's most accurate gauges. Its modes are great as it either reads 0 (you screwed up) or the actual PSI (success) and many other gauges will read some wonky shit. It is battery operated, so keep those on hand. It is not especially hardy, so if you throw shit around, this ain't for you. It is accurate as hell and lasts a long time though.
I keep one of these as well as a mini compressor in the trunk. I've been known to pull a nail or screw out on the side of the road, make the repair and fill the tire. All without removing the wheel from the car. They're simple and quick to use.
Possible in-transit repair materials for a micrometeoroid puncture of an MCT (including fuel or propellant tanks) include:
And with luck, they'll never need to be used. But worth taking up a few pounds payload mass, nevertheless.
A true pro will dismount the tire from the rim and patch the tire on the inside. Us DIYers use a plug instead, and yes, you can do it yourself. Pick up a plug kit at your local auto parts house or discount store. Get one with a T-handle. It doesn't have to be an expensive kit but the very cheapest ones have a "screwdriver" handle and won't give you enough leverage. This video will show you the procedure. DO NOT repair a puncture outside the tread area!
This works out to $1.60 per repair. It's super easy too.
Costco will also repair a flat tire that was purchased from Costco, but you gotta deal with the super long Costco tire wait.
I guess the real LPT is if you get a flat tire, call the place you bought the tire from and they'll probably fix it for free.
In the alternative, learn to use a tire repair kit, like this.
Happy to help! All-season tires aren't bad at anything, but they aren't great either. Better than summer tires by a long shot, but aren't really comparable to winter tires in the snow. That being said, I have all-season tires on my van since it's kind of hard to carry an extra set with you to switch out twice a year when you're also living in said van.
Just make sure to get an allignment to lengthen the life of the tires, keep them properly inflated, and replace them when they get down to the wear markers to avoid hydroplaning and/or losing control in the snow. If you do happen to get stuck, don't stand on the throttle, as you'll only dig the hole deeper. Get out, let some air out of the drive tires to increase the contact surface, and then feather the throttle on and off to rock yourself out of the ditch/patch of snow. It's also a good idea to keep a simple tire plug kit and portable air compressor on hand just in case.
You can also get a tire patch kit and do it yourself, takes 10 minutes and costs less than $10. You can buy it at Walmart, or any auto parts store. It should contain the following: Rubber strips, rubber cement, and a plunging tool.
https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034--T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K
Like that. It comes with instructions, but the gist is to coat a rubber strip in rubber cement, then fold it to form a "U" shape on the tip of the tool. Plunge the strip through the hole, then snip off the excess. The "U" shape allows for the rubber strip to maintain pressure against the hole. You can also do this yourself if you have some good rubber laying around from another tire, some rubber cement, and a screwdriver.
That sucks. You could try taking it to a tire shop to see if they can plug it. Alternatively, I used a plug kit on my motorcycle when I got a flat - it held up well until I replaced the tire.
Oh, Snake wasn't referring to a brand. Slime is fine for brand. Snake is the type of kit, with the "strings" or whatever they are called, I have always heard them called snakes haha. this type of patch As sold here Also for a pump I have this one Its nice with the flexible hose so you can push it against the ground with your weight. Also the gauge is nice so you know when your done, I have tested this up to 100psi had no problems. It rides in my bag while I dirt bike, so it holds up well to abuse.
Edit, I just decided to check, and go figure your bike might have tubes... I don't know for sure, one site said this:
Custom has no tubes.
900 Classic, 900 LT, and 1500 Classic have tubes.
1500 Nomad, Mean Streak, and all 1600 and V2K are tubeless.
If you has tubes then the snake kit wont work. Also a tube repair roadside on that bike might be a bit extreme... You have to pull the wheel off, pull the tire off the wheel, patch the tube with a tube repair kit, then reinstall it all. I do this on dirt bike tires all the time, but with a road bike, I wouldn't bother trying. Just hope you don't catch a flat on the go.
http://www.uniroyaltires.com/catalog/nailgard_pop.html
http://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-A-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K
This. It's not a bad idea to keep a kit in the trunk with a little pump or something.
https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K/ref=lp_15706711_1_5?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541712372&amp;sr=1-5
repair it for like 7$
https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K/ref=sr_1_6?crid=M6TBSPCEHIWV&amp;keywords=slime+tire+plug+kit&amp;qid=1550703204&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=slime+tire+plug+%2Caps%2C197&amp;sr=8-6
I've run many, many patched tires. Learn to use the cat-turd plugs. You can get them at walmart or amazon. These things should be hard to put in and they will NOT come out. It helps (becomes possible) if you remove the valve core (and thus all the air) before trying to push the plug in from the outside. Use the rubber cement as lubricant, if it dries, you're not going to be able to push the plug in. The advantage is you do not have to remove the tire. I run them down to the belt after that, but never over 100mph (assuming it was a proper Z rated tire).
Now that I think about it OP, why not just patch it yourself? Patch kits are super cheap, and it looks like you have the tire off anyway? Tons of Youtube videos on how to do this, and it would only take you probably 15 mins? Worth a shot maybe?
https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K/ref=sr_1_29?crid=20AWTIR9UX41A&keywords=tire+patch+kits&qid=1573233453&sprefix=tire+patch+%2Caps%2C206&sr=8-29
I wasn't trying to be a braggart. Sorry if I came off that way. I wouldn't carry the one I have if I wasn't so hard on my power chair but, chasing my three little ones around takes a toll on things. Unfortunately, power chairs are generally designed for people who spend their time indoors. I am not one of those people.
Have you ever considered packing a [tire puncture repair kits](Slime 1034-A T-Handle Tire Plug Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ET525K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_l2ytybN3YP6DJ) in your car?
Edit; I give up on links!
good reveiews
https://www.amazon.com/Stop-Go-1075-Standard-Plugger/dp/B0018EUDHW
I have and have used this on my truck
https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K/ref=pd_lpo_263_bs_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=MVDGZMH8C9SY4QH3X0GV
I use the most basic slime kit but I can't seem to find it online, I think it's a one-off for auto parts stores. But the deluxe version is on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K
It's also sold at Walmart and in many auto parts places. I think it's slightly cheaper in store and some places carry the kit without the rubber cement.
They aren't anyway. Mechanics hate them. Have a portable air compressor (that has a cig lighter cable) and rubber plugs. It's cheap and much safer.
From Amazon: Plug Kit
From Amazon: Air Compressor
Tire patch kit and a bike pump.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ET525K/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522772498&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=tire+patch+kit
An empty Gel pack is another common solution. Of course, you could also just keep a proper tire boot in your kit.
Put a boot inside and ride on. By boot I mean a tire patch.
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-TB-2-Emergency-Tire/dp/B000YBGJRS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478388230&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Park+tools+tire+patch
Hey, I would consider buying some tire boots in case this ever happens to you again. I got some park tool ones from amazon and they work very nicely for the 2 times I've had to use them.
http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-TB-2-Emergency-Tire/dp/B000YBGJRS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420513493&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=park+tool+tire+boot
Park tools also make tire boots that fill the function of the dollar bill. A bit more expensive - but they're adhesive, so you can stick them to the inside of the tire. Had to use one last week & it was great.
https://smile.amazon.com/Park-Tool-TB-2-Emergency-Tire/dp/B000YBGJRS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525373110&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=park+tools+tire+boot
Exactly and only use Rema Tip Top patches. when I was a NYC messenger Rema's were a godsend. I've installed them in a horrendous downpour they held
This thing helps some: https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K
This. Kool Stop Tire Bead Jack.
Or this. CrankBrothers Speedier tire lever.
If you come across a tire that you can't put on with your hands, use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K (check your LBS first though)
Best $15 I ever spent
I've got Marathons on two bikes - work great, no punctures, roll fast, easy to mount, and the casing is relatively compliant (vs Specialized Armadillos - yikes!)
With regard to mounting issues, I've often found that mounting up high quality (read $$$) tires to low quality (inexpensive) rims usually yields sore thumbs. For instance, running Schwalbe DH tires on my Mavic 521s is a snap. OP's bike is on the lower end of the dollar spectrum, so I might suggest a tire mounting tool like this. I have had one for years - it's never failed to help with stubborn tires!
EDIT: try using one of these, before you use heat. I'm surprised your LBS didn't have one, though.
I didn't realize they were carbon. I was going to suggest hitting it with a heat gun and then attempting to just press tire down and out of the bead like you would on a car or motorcycle, before trying to get up under it with the lever. But heat gun is likely too aggressive for the carbon, i would hit it with a blowdryer though for sure.
A tire bead jack will do the job. It uses leverage to stretch the tire and a plastic lip to protect the rim.
Some tires go on some rims easily, its much more difficult on others.
There are tire bead jack tools like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K. They work pretty well, but I do not usually find them necessary.
One thing that can help is to go around the tire and push the already mounted parts into the rim as far as they will go. This can create just a little more slack to get the remaining portion on.
This is the "nuclear option" for really difficult tires: https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K/ref=pd_sim_468_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=BZE8P13X5X94NM8JY176
I've never found soapy water to be much help, but talcum powder is sometimes effective.
Consider buying a tire jack instead of a tire lever:
https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K/ref=sr_1_25?s=sporting-goods&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483033192&amp;sr=1-25&amp;keywords=tire+lever
Otherwise, I do second the support for Pedros levers, they're way better than most others.
This is good advice, if you still have issues, deflate the tube a bit. If that still doesn't work, one of these are totally a lifesaver for the extremely stubborn combinations: Kool Stop Tire Bead Jack
Kool Stop Tire Bead Jack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AYML7K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I have those same marathons and I’ve had that same problem. I just bought one of those cool stop tools- I Highly recommend it.
You need a kool-stop bead jack. It will make any tire installation a breeze.
Kool Stop Tire Bead Jack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AYML7K/
On mobile, sorry for the formatting.
Kool stop tire jack lever
I run wire bead gatorskins.. nuff said
I recently bought that tire in a 28 and a 32. No problem on size going from a 28 to a 32 you should be able to use the same tubes as well.
Just a heads up though - they are HELL to get on the rim. Have a shop do it or invest in a dedicated INSTALL tool like this - not just a set of levers
Watch some youtube videos so you get the basic gist if this is not your first rodeo but I suggest the tool I linked to - or else you better buy a couple of patch kits or extra tubes for when you pinch the tube while trying to lever the tire bead over the rim.
PRO TIPS Throw the tire outside in the hot sun for a couple hours to expand/soften the compound and use liquid soap to lube the contact areas. Hope this helps.
I've got a set of Pedro's tire levers, plus a tire jack to help get the tire back on. It's still an incredibly daunting task. I'm sure I'll get faster with practice, but I still hate doing it.
There's this one I've seen in various shops
Stop & Go 1001 Tire Repair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BBSD9C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_4v0yDb9Z0WQGM
There are many tire plug kits that are small enough to be carried on a motorcycle, such as this one, which I happen to carry. If I ever need to use it, it will keep me from being stranded. But I will then order a replacement tire.
Good choice! You’ll likely never go back.
Let me find you a link... Slime 70005 Safety Spair 7-Minute Flat Tire Repair System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DZFZPG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5KVeAb71CYP1N
I keep it in the trunk in the little hollow on the right side. Have had to use it once and it worked great.
I got this Slime kit for my car instead of the 4x cost BMW kit. It's rated pretty highly. If you use it though just realize the tire tech might hate you (at least warn him). I'd only use it if stuck in a risky area. Otherwise it's getting a flatbed.
Slime 70005 Safety Spair 7-Minute Flat Tire Repair System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DZFZPG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9lVOzbT0AJ94M
Not standard. I got a Slime Tire Repair Kit based on recommendations from here.
In April 2016 the old kit was $50 + $14 shipping
The old kit was a close match for https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DZFZPG — which only costs $37 shipped today. But the new one looks different
https://www.amazon.com/RoadPro-RPTT-1-Thumper-19-Inches-Assorted/dp/B001JT5CFY
A useful tool! -- /s
Here's a short explanation. My understanding is that it had to do with checking to be sure the tires weren't cheap and thin.
Some truckers still use something like this to get a quick read on whether or not a tire is exceptionally low. It's a bit of a different perspective, but physically hitting a tire is still a thing.
"Tire Thumper" is a go-to as well.
They sell these at most of the trucks stops I've visited.
That's called a tire thumper and truckers will often carry them in their semis to hit their tires with to see if they're at the right pressure.
But really, it's just a legal way to carry a club.
There is no RPTT3. The RPTT1 looks like the shortened baseball bat. And the RPTT simply stands for Road Pro Tire Thumper. I promise it's not just a bit. My terminal had around 70 drivers, and between the hours of 3 AM to 10 AM and 3 PM to 10 PM, you could hear the "thump^ping thump^ping thump^ping" during pre and post trips a mile away.
Tire thumpers baby!!
this isn't a baseball bat, its a small tire thumper. for truckers to check for flat tires! normally kept next to the drivers seat for convenience.
http://www.amazon.ca/RoadPro-RPTT-1-Assorted-Wooden-Thumper/dp/B001JT5CFY
I've done my rubber on my KLR. I have tubes but the process is (I'm guessing) pretty much the same:
There are some tools to help you:
I took a few hours to do mine as it was my first time, but with practice you could probably get it down to less than an hour. I also took the opportunity to clean and lube my chain. I cleaned it with WD40 and dried it off before using chain wax to lubricate. It helps if the chain is a bit warmed up for this.
No need in slashing tires, this is much easier/ more annoying.
Or even better just use this
Slashing car tires are surprisingly loud, attract lots of attention, and not exactly a propositional response. However, a few twists of a valve stem remover will remove the $0.05 pin that holds all the air in and make one hell of an inconvenience See: http://amzn.com/B001KO84I0
> So this is where I'd grab my pump and let every last bit of air out of their tires.
Why not use one of these? [Tire valve tool] (https://www.amazon.com/Slime-20088-4-Way-Valve-Cores/dp/B0020T17J2/ref=sxts_kp?hvadid=78408977470626&amp;hvbmt=be&amp;hvdev=c&amp;hvqmt=e&amp;keywords=tire+stem+removal+tool&amp;pd_rd_i=B0020T17J2&amp;pd_rd_r=9a4a7d1d-f938-49ca-b823-7cb5898cc515&amp;pd_rd_w=Wx3aG&amp;pd_rd_wg=jPBuP&amp;pf_rd_p=81d99bd4-f902-4b23-8928-b05d50fd5b3c&amp;pf_rd_r=4T6VZSPTH8G6028PPJ0N&amp;qid=1570139102&amp;s=gateway). The best part is that nobody will be able to fill the tire with air initially and very few if any carry a tire valve on them. Now that I mention it, I need to put one back in my car for asshole parkers.
Solution: back out, let them have the spot. Remove the cores from their valve stems and leave them under the wiper blade.
A simple valve tool can remove the core from the tire valves. The tires (which remain undamaged) go flat; hooking up a compressor won't re-inflate them.
Only think about this if you see the driver park this way deliberately and need not have done so. Be sure to leave the tiny valve cores (descretely) someplace on the car so you can't be accused of theft.
I have this kit:
https://www.amazon.com/Tooluxe-50002L-Universal-Punctures-Motorcycles/dp/B002I52RG0/
(Actually, I have 2 of them, and I keep one in each of the daily drivers along with a pump)
For a slow leak, if you have an auto parts store nearby that's open go buy a cheap 12v compressor that runs off the cigarette lighter. That way you can pump the tire up whenever the light randomly comes on.
You can also get a tire plug kit and take the tire off, locate the leak, and plug it if it's not too close to the sidewall. You can find youtube videos showing you how to use it.
Yeah of course
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015TKUPIC
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0037V0EW8
I grabbed this $10 digital off amazon a while back. I liked it and ended up buying another.
It's fast and convenient and has a sometimes-handy bit of lighting. How accurate is it? Not 100% sure - I don't have anything that I trust to be a benchmark. But it agrees up with the TPMS on my car and it's pretty close to the analog gauge on my compressor, so in my experience plenty accurate enough for an application where +/- 5% accuracy isn't going to bother me much.
I know revenge is petty but, this guy is an asshat. Get a valve core tool like this. Basically you remove the valve that keeps the air in the tires, he will not be able to fill them up and have to get a flatbed tow to a tire shop to have them replaced. It won't damage his vehicle and it only costs like 2 bucks to buy new valves. This will give him the motherload of all headaches.
Just carry one of These, use it on two of his tires and he won't be going anywhere soon.
Yeah going to ~22psi would make a very noticeable difference. Especially if the roads are corrugated. It'll be a much smoother ride. For me on load range D/E tires 18-22 psi is like the sweet spot.
I highly suggest getting the arb deflator to air down. It takes me like 20-30 seconds per tire including putting the deflator on. The screw on deflator that automatically stop were what I first used but they were annoying to use because I would have needed multiple sets set at different pressures and they take 1 to 2 minutes a tire and are never equal between the 4 tires.
ARB ARB505 E-Z Deflator, Orange https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LQCDOA
Two Ronny Dahl videos about tire pressures and deflators.
https://youtu.be/6kul4YMcVpU
https://youtu.be/BAXRjNHIUw8
To air up I picked up a Vair compressor for about $50 but now that I have 37s I'm going to goto onboard air with a faster compressor. It worked great on my old 32s and friends 33s but if you have 35s or larger it takes like 4 minutes a tire to go from 20 to 30.
Tire bleeders are awesome and pretty inexpensive. I think I picked mine up for $40.
Edit: link
here
I forgot deflators. I use this one, it pulls the stem and your tire is deflated in about 10 seconds. It took me about 1-2 uses to get good with it, I can now air down in less time then it takes most people to screw on the auto deflators.
http://www.amazon.com/ARB-ARB505-E-Z-Deflator/dp/B004LQCDOA
Not sure about tires for a minivan, but whichever you choose you might consider adding the ability to air down on dirt roads, and airing back up once you get to highway. Airing down makes the ride much more comfortable on dirt roads and greatly reduces your chance for getting a flat.
I have this quality air compressor that hooks up to your car battery while it's running, and this air-down kit which makes it a fast/accurate procedure to air down.
https://smile.amazon.com/Stop-Go-6000-Tire-Repair/dp/B0068FX3VO/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=stop+n+go+tire+plug+kit+motorcycle&amp;qid=1566911851&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-10
I have one of those in my car and it's not big at all. Easily fits in a saddle bag. It's slightly larger than a 6" sub sandwhich.
Hey, I did have a look at the 12V compressors --- did you have any recommendations? Stop-n-go have a compressor kit but it's quite overpriced compared to the US prices...probably because it's imported from the US.
Definitely agree on the patch kit. The "right" way to do it is install a patch from the inside, but a rubber plug installed correctly is almost as good.
I like this kit for tubeless tires. It's got all of the tools needed, including an air compressor. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0068FX3VO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_k-x1Cb265M1RG
If you need to save space, they also have one that uses Co2 bottles instead of the pump. I like the version with the pump for my dual sports so I can air up and down often and the smaller kit for street bikes.
Sorry for the delay - just got back home.
I've got the one in the link below and used it twice now. The CB650 got a big puncture and this sealed it perfectly. You can get extra cannisters on eBay. I got it cheaper than the price shown though. Any of that kind will.do the job.
I've also got an Airhawk Pro tyre inflator as the little cannisters barely get any pressure into the tyre.
Gear Gremlin GG170 Tyre Repair Kit https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00CCE6100/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_e2V2Cb2TT9AP6
I have this one.
But it's a bit bulky to carry, so I bought this one to take on trips which is much more convenient and still carrys plenty of plugs and the tools needed to fit one.
If I ever use the plugs in the more portable one I can simply replace them with the ones from the other kit. And it means I don't have to carry a compressor as the CO2 will be enough to get me to a garage with a pump.
I hear not good things. I hear they get everywhere and get stuck in your valve stem and such. Use Ride-on it's a sealant and balancer and it doesn't have the drawbacks of beads. If you leave your bike sit a while (weeks) you will need to give it a few miles to redistribute.
get this stuff https://www.amazon.com/Ride-Tire-Balancer-Sealant-oz/dp/B00DX8BTUG
Carry one of these. http://www.amazon.com/Stop-Go-International-Plugger-Tubeless/dp/B0006NE3KE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1412085910&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=stop+and+go+plug I bought a pair of new bt45s. On my way home daily from work, there was a construction site and i picked up three nails one day and two another day. 4,000 miles later, the tire still holds air.
Flat how? Got a puncture? Try this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006NE3KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I used it on two different punctures, same back tire. Works well.
Found this, looks like it will help me in the future but doesn't really help me now.
Your link wasn't working, but I found the item
https://www.amazon.com/Accutire-MS-4021B-Digital-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00080QHMM
looks like a good value
A) 500 a year? That's real low. I've always gone by every 10-15k as the issue with rotations has to do with gradual uneven wear on different corners. I don't think a car that sits that much will need rotations on a time basis - I would consider posting that as separate question because it's an awfully specific scenario.
B) TPMS even today is pretty unreliable so i doubt it was much better in 07. For checking tire pressure just grab one of these off amazon and check the four corners every 2 weeks or so just to keep an eye on it. Maybe a little more often, or at least consistently, as we head into the fall and temperature changes can mess with tire pressure. Also good as you can tell sooner rather than later if you have a leak - i.e., you check one day and 3 corners are at ~30 PSI and one at 18
Accutire MS-4021B Digital Tire Pressure Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00080QHMM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_a2tWzb8X1ATX5
Have that exact one and it's never let me down.
I'd spray it with soapy water and see where it's leaking from first and foremost; if there's a puncture in the sidewall you're gonna be buying a new tire. From there you can decide; any motorcycle shop should be able to replace the valve for you if that's the issue, if it's a puncture you might consider repairing it yourself.
OK, should these things happen again, here are some things you should keep in the trunk.
A tire inflator that plugs into your cigarette lighter. It won't help much with larger leaks, but for smaller ones it'll let you reinflate the tire long enough to get to an auto shop.
If you want to plug a leak, you'll need a tire repair kit. This isn't as simple to use as the inflator (you'd want to practice or at least see it done first), but it's not rocket science either. A word of caution though: the needles used in those kits have been known to break, so don't do what that guy did at 2:48 where he was lucky not to give himself a vasectomy.
If the nail or whatever is still in the tire, then you'll need something like vice grips to pull it out. If it's not in the tire, then you'll need the inflator to push air in and some (preferably soapy) water to see pour on the tire and see bubbles where the air is coming out.
And since this kit is $6 and has plugs to fix four flats and a shop will charge you $5 to fix one, it doesn't take that long to start saving a few bucks.
A set of jumper cables. Honestly, I don't know why dealerships don't put this in every car that drives off the lot. Here's how to use them correctly. With these, you won't need to call AAA for (most) dead batteries, just find some kind soul willing to let you jump off of their car. For jumper cables there's a few things you want to look for:
I have used a kit very similar to this one a few times.
http://www.amazon.com/Victor-22-5-00106-8-Heavy-Tubeless-Repair/dp/B000AMOEGY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414620236&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=tire+plug
Afterwards I have driven thousands of miles on the repaired tire. I once went into a local tire repair shop (old school kind where the owner works there, not the chain crap) and had a chat with them about tire plugs. It was the opinion of at least two of the tire guys that the plugs will outlast the rest of the tire and it would be a waste of money to replace it.
Do I agree with this? Not sure. However, if your goal is to get home, you cannot go wrong with one of these type kits.
Note - they can get real hard to use after sitting in a hot car for months. Check a couple times a year to make sure the plugs are still usable.
Tube or tubeless? Assuming that is a small nail, wire of staple sticking that is in the center of the picture, no slime is going to fix that while that is still poking through. Assuming tube If you are lucky once you remove the thing causing the puncture some slime might patch it, you could give it a shot but you may need to remove the tube and patch it. Assuming tubeless, try a tire plug kit. Tire plugs work on car tires dont see why they would not work on scooter tires. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000ET525K/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_X9UvDbZ5CMEDR
On tubeless setups on scooters I have wondered if something like stans no tubes would work but I think the PSI might be too high if I recall the stans instructions.
https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K
A nail or other object embedded in the tire tread, as long as it's not in the sidewall, can be easily repaired with this handy little kit
Simply remove the object, insert the coarse reamer into and out of the hole a couple times, twisting in a clockwise fashion. Then insert one of the plugs into the hole in the end of the other reamer, coat in rubber cement, insert into hole so about an inch is sticking out of the tire. Remove the reamer, trim the excess plug off, refill tire to proper inflation, and you're good to go. Takes 5-10 minutes.
A reamer tool for cleaning a hole in a tire for putting in a tire plug.
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similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=tire+repair+kit&qid=1562683995&s=gateway&sr=8-9
https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K is what they're talking about
It's bad. Slimes up the inside of the wheel, might plug your valve.
I would just get and carry a tire plug kit with the rubber cement like this. They are easy to use and some people have been known to do thousands of miles on them. I have used them on my car with great success.
You're fine. One of these plugs will be fine until the tire wears out.
https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K
I wouldn't sweat it.
If you're losing air, I've had good success using one of these on the 250. To each his own, though. A lot of people aren't comfortable riding on plugged tires. I'm cheap, and I still make sure to check the pressure before I go out as well.
There are kits for repairing centerline punctures (tubeless tires only) of varying prices. Worth it to keep something like this. You dig out the foreign object, use the reamer to rough up the puncture, then use the needle eye to position a plug string (you can coat it with some rubber cement if it's a bigger hole). Push in the plug, then pull out fast. The plug remains and seals up the puncture. Last step is to trim the plug so it's flush with the tire then re-inflate and let it sit for 5-10 minutes to see if it's holding pressure.
With a repair patch, I wouldn't push 50, 55mph, and probably not too much more than 50-100 miles, but it should get you home. You'll want to get a new tire. Some places might professionally repair it but I never trust them after a puncture, no matter who repairs it.
I bought this pump: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036E9VB6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Combined with this plug kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ET525K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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I don't think the Tesla kit is worth it and I've heard the compound it sprays into the tire is ironically ineffective since Tesla tires have acoustic foam in them.
No car should be without a tire rope plug kit and a half decent multi-tool. The rope plug kit is far better to use than the spare if you just pick up a nail/screw in the treads, and you'll want the multi tool to extract the nail and cut the end of the plug.
A small inflator, jumper cables (or jump pack), and first aid kit are also good to have.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ET525K/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503808106&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=tire+plug+kit&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41xjVQvErTL
And for the multi tool, skip the wally world off brand ones. An entry level Leatherman or Gerber tool will last much longer, and would be less frustrating to use.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005DI0XM4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503808218&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=Leatherman&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41eQ%2BspHPIL&amp;ref=plSrch
If you're running tubeless you probably should be running sealant in your tires. Fat tires are pretty thin skinned and puncture easily in my experience. Stans, Orange, Slime are all popular brands.
If you get a hole that won't seal there are plug kits like this that can be installed from the outside, or patches like these that install on the inside.
These are also a good way to patch a slashed tire.
https://www.amazon.com/Rema-Tour-Patch-Kit-Large/dp/B0016HSA4O/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536893641&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=vulcanizing+patch+kit
Weird. Are you using the glue+ patch ones? The glue less patches don't work too well.
I know that an anecdote doesn't really mean anything, but my patches have never given me problems. I have one tube that has 4 or 5 patches on it and it works fine. As long as it is a hole or small tear, and not on the valve, I slap another patch on and keep riding.
This
Is the exact kit I use. Check a bike shop near you, I got mine for $3. If you are nice to them, they might even show you how to do it yourself. Aside from that, maybe hit up YouTube or reddit or the rest of the Internet for tips.
Happy patching!
I cannot recommend the Rocket Ratchet enough for all-around, single tool efficiency. It's gotten to the point where I don't actually use the tools in my toolbox even when I'm at home. I just use the ratchet and it's way better. Any multi-tool with a chain-breaker will work, I've just had a really good time with that one.
After that a set of Pedro's. For my money, they're the best levers around. Great durability, can spoke-lock from both sides, and I've never ripped a tube with them, even on bullshit 23 tires.
After that basic patch kits, they'll use them all the time until they throw their hands in the air five years from now and scream "FINE I'LL GO TUBELESS."
Those are kind of the basics, and will allow them to work 90% of the stuff on their bike. The other 10% becomes more expensive and more specialized.
EDIT: oh, and a spoke wrench is the other cheap and highly useful item to have around.
Or, for half the price, carry one of these tiny kits and fix many flats yourself, in five minutes:
http://www.amazon.com/Rema-Touring-Patch-Kit-Large/dp/B0016HSA4O/ref=zg_bs_2368131011_2
for the future. This works really great to get on the tight ones. https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K/ref=asc_df_B001AYML7K/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241975700326&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9865483448796285076&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031245&hvtargid=pla-448754439296&psc=1
You’re going to need this.
Changed my life
You can cut part of the handle off so it fits in a saddle bag, works amazingly well.
Kool stop Bead Jack
This tool makes mounting tires much easier:
http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K
Obtain this item:
http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K
Made mounting a Gatorskin and a GP4000s on Velocity Deep-V rims humanly possible. Before, I was doing it with some Park Tool levers until my fingers couldn't move anymore. Some tire/rim combinations are just impossible to install/remove any other way!
Edit: My bad! The Kool Stop one is just for installation, try the Crank Bros one for enhanced leverage during both removal and installation:
http://www.amazon.com/Crank-Brothers-Speed-Bicycle-Lever/dp/B001BIZARI
My friend got the same wheelset and tire combo as I did, but he used the Crank Bros lever instead of the Kool-Stop to install his Continentals. I believe he's removed a tight tire with it too, so it's been working for him.
Kool Stop Tire Bead Jack
If not for that awesome device, there'd be no more skin on my thumbs. Many tire/rim combos just aren't go to cooperate without it.
https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K
Just order it now. I don't have a lot of hand strength. I literally carry one in my bike bag with the rest of my flat repair tools.
The thing is, if you're going to start buying extremely puncture-resistant tires from Schwalbe . . . well, those are about the bitchiest tires to get on, period. Like Greenguards (Marathons), Marathon Plus, Mondials, and most of the really puncture resistant Schwalbe tires can be a nightmare to get on.
This is a dumb question, but you've checked to make sure these aren't pinch flats, right?
I've always used really wide MTB tires, so I've never had much of a problem. But when I tried to put 28c tires on my Cross Check, I had so much trouble that I broke several things in my house in rage at not being able to get it on. [Then I bought this] (http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K). It is just as amazing as it looks.
I've had these tires before, and they are quite a pain due to geting that tight wire bead over the lip of the rim. I have had at least minor success with either leaving stubborn tires in the sunlight or using a blow-dryer to heat up the rubber to get it to slightly expand and make it easier to convince.
I've also used the Kool-Stop tire jack to great success.
I wouldn't use the levers as a way to continue getting the tire on by this point, because it'll likely pinch-flat the tube.
My hobby whenever someone is about to mention the Marathon Plus is always to warn the what a nightmare they are to put on, especially the 25 mm version:)
That being said, I run Marathon Plus on both my commuter bikes (currently testing out Gator Skins on my racer). I usually go around 3.500-4.000 km before the first flat at which point I often just replace it.
It's a very rough ride on those tyres, but I really appreciate the no flats aspect.
I have this tool in my arsenal to help me put the tyres back on.
I had a similar issue recently, I rage quit, went online and ordered one of these, a tire bead jack.
Of course 5 minutes after I ordered it, I went out and managed to finally get the tire on, so still haven't needed to use it yet....
Get yourself one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Stop-Go-1001-Pocket-Plugger/dp/B001BBSD9C
i highly recommend this kit:
http://www.amazon.com/Pocket-Tire-Plugger-Inflation-System/dp/B001BBSD9C/ref=pd_sbs_auto_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1AY40JA9GJHTGW9JYHGG
it has saved my ass (and my friends asses) multiple times!
I would highly recommend this product if you don't like or don't know how to change a flat tire:
http://www.amazon.com/Slime-70005-Safety-7-Minute-Repair/dp/B001DZFZPG
Was there any explanation for the additional 1.5 week delay that you were told on Wednesday morning?
I'm with you on most of your rant - it's ridiculous and frustrating that they would miss deadlines continually on delivering you your car.
The spare tire thing, you can call it elitist if you want, but it's a general trend in the industry for cars that aren't intended to go off-road. So I would think Subaru will continue to deliver cars with a spare tire, but every EV that I've ever seen (Bolt, Leaf, Ioniq) has skipped them to save weight and for Tesla's the assumption is that you can use Tesla's Roadside Assistance if you have a flat. I think as we go forward you will find fewer and fewer sedans - EV or not - that come with a spare tire. I carry this in my Model 3: https://www.amazon.com/Slime-70005-Safety-7-Minute-Repair/dp/B001DZFZPG
Also, if you want my opinion on the delay, my guess would be that they found something wrong with your car during final inspection and are fixing it. If I'm correct, then they don't want to tell you this because most people don't want to hear "we found something wrong" and a unspecified delay.
When you get the car, you will likely love it. It looks fantastic, mine gets lots of attention and it is loads of fun to drive. Hang in there.
Slime 70005 Safety Spair 7-Minute Flat Tire Repair System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DZFZPG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ULIXBbKR3K2DR
I got one of these slime inflators keep in the trunk at the recommendation of the Prius chat forums since it is tire pressure sensor safe (unlike the one that came with the car). Between that and a AAA card you should be fine.
Since the model 3 doesn't have a spare, I highly recommend one of those portable compressors with the goo that can patch up leaks super easily. They're like $30.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001DZFZPG/ref=oh_aui_i_d_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You can always get a tire thumper and just say that you are overly compulsive about checking your tire pressure. They work a lot better for self-defense in confined spaces, as well.
https://www.amazon.ca/RoadPro-RPTT-1-Assorted-Wooden-Thumper/dp/B001JT5CFY/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=tire+knocker&amp;qid=1566673197&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=Tire+knock&amp;sr=8-5
> lug wrench.
Or how about the trucker tire pressure gauge most truckers keep handy.
Its called a tire thumper.
less than 30 seconds, you could change this boy's mind... https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0183-Valve-Remover/dp/B001KO84I0/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=valve+stem+tool&qid=1567048103&s=gateway&sr=8-7
I prefer this valve core tool
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001KO84I0/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496359709&amp;sr=8-6&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=valve+stem+tool&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41UhFj-xMcL&amp;ref=plSrch
Yes do exactly what that video shows. You don't need to take the tire off the bead unless you are changing the whole valve stem. You just want to install the core.
How do you know it's the valve cores thats been removed? Do you see a gaping hole in the valve stem? If so order some of these and get a pump
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0020T17J2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_l8qnDb5Z3SB36
So is that needle thing the valve stem core? And i use a tool such as this?
Is this short little video all i need to do? Been seeing some videos where they "break the bead" of the tire, do i need to do that? Or is that for replacing the entire valve stem, not just the valve stem core?
I just want to expand to the flat tire idea I've seen elsewhere in this thread. All tires use a valve stem to let air in and out, in the mechanic world when you change tires you use a little tool that takes the valve out of the stem, meaning all the air comes out and there is no way to put any back in without replacing the valve with the same tool.
Point is, you can empty every tire in under 1 minute, and he can't just fill them back up since the entire valve is missing. If done at the right time this can wreak havoc on his life, and be expensive if he has to call for a tow or similar. And since most people don't realize the valve can come out, he will most likely be forced to pay a tow and repairs. Rinse and repeat as often as you want to fuck with him.
The tool itself is cheap as hell too. Here's a link for $2 on Amazon. Though you may be able to find one similarly priced at a local auto shop.
Slime 20088 4-Way Valve Tool with 4 Valve Cores https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0020T17J2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jeNyCbYMVC0C9
valve core tool
A) no.
B) You need to remove the core with a tool (cheap and sometimes is even included in a package of slime).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0020T17J2/ref=pd_aw_fbt_263_img_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=64QC8J4C79C9N81712GD
C) Check the clearance you have. Different manufacturers sizes do not always fit the same. I have Schwalbe 40's that fit where a Kenda 40 does not. You can measure the gaps and go from there. Your bike manufacturer may have suggested sizes as well.
Edit: formatting
Or they leave it where its at, walk/bus/uber to the store and pick up a valve stem tool with valves for a few bucks and a portable compressor (a mini bike pump also works, but takes longer) most insurance covers at least one tow a year, so they could even get it towed to a gas station next to one of those stores to air the tire up after installing the valve stems. But most tow trucks will have a portable compressor and it would just hit your roadside assistance. Definitely under the $500 deductible and an inconvenience, and I do appreciate you advocating against slashing of tires. But it's not too hard to replace valve stem issues.
I am not knowledgeable, i just dealt with it couple of times with tires nails.
Sidewall damage(nail in the sidewall of the tire), must replace for safety to avoid blowout when you hit a bump. Sidewall material are thinner because it flexes.
There are tire plug kit (https://www.amazon.com/Tooluxe-50002L-Universal-Punctures-Motorcycles/dp/B002I52RG0/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=tire+plug&amp;qid=1572574280&amp;refinements=p_72%3A2661618011&amp;rnid=2661617011&amp;sr=8-6) , but it requires massive force to shove the plug in and pull it out while leaving plug attached (think of it plug filling the hole to seal the ). This is not really recommended and not exactly safe imo. You are better off bringing to tire shop and tell them to patch it completely (beware some will just plug it because is easier for them, always ask for patch plug combo. Patch plug look like this https://www.amazon.com/Hanperal-24Pcs-Rubber-Repair-Patch/dp/B01NADRACD). Requires to remove the tire off the rim and shave the inside tread to make a better seal.
I keep a looped-end tow strap along with the ring hooks to connect to the recovery points on the front and rear bumper. Makes it easy to ask for help if I get stuck -- just flag down a bigger vehicle.
I also carry a tire plug kit like this one: http://amzn.com/B002I52RG0 -- that's helped me a couple of times -- plus a small 12V air compressor to give you enough pressure to limp it to the gas station for a full tire fill.
I use $20 tire deflator and an $9 electronic tire pressure gauge
Put them on, set my phone's timer for 7.5 minutes, pull them off, and double-check with the pressure gauge they're the right pressure.
Took about 20 minutes to set everything up the first time.
Probably something like this. I have one and I love it.
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-5941-Digital-Tire-Gauge/dp/B0037V0EW8/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480711832&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=digital+tire+pressure+gauge
I use this one, so far it's worked great. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0037V0EW8/ref=psdcmw_15709131_t1_B06ZYZS9YL
A tool that removes the valve stem core completely from the tire, therefor making it impossible to re inflate without use of the tool and a new valve core.
Example
Tire valve tool set costs $18...
Not a lot of damage done, and a point clearly expressed.
Fucking rookie, get one of these. You can be done in under 2 minutes and they will have to call a tow truck and replace the valves.
I have tried several of the options out there, and this is by far the best one.
http://www.amazon.com/ARB-ARB505-E-Z-Deflator/dp/B004LQCDOA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463169520&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=arb+tire+deflator
just bought this kit for that.
This is the one I use: Im not a fan of C02 canisters. Cheaper versions of the kit have C02's.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Go-6000-Tubeless-Puncture-Pilot/dp/B0068FX3VO
As mentioned ADVRider.com .
Here is my take, from someone who does 10k mile cross country trips every year.
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Bike is very subjective.
Sportster isn't a bad choice - they are fairly bullet proof, and you can always find a dealership if you need one.
I do my travelling on a V-Strom, and I do recommend them.
You also couldn't go wrong with a Kawasaki Concours ZG1000 ('86-2006) if you wanted to go a bit heavier on the tour aspect.
For a tent - get a two person (as mentioned) and for the love of god, get a free standing pop up. You ~will~ end up setting up camp in the dark, in pouring rain.
For keeping clean - Gym memberships aren't bad, although they do tend to keep you focused around metro/urban areas. Wet wipes will do for skipping a day, and you can always hit a travel plaza (Loves/Flying J/Travel America) and pay $8-12 to take a shower (those truck stop showers are clean. they scrub em down after every use). Personally, I've got my gym membership, but I still use the truck stop showers several times during my month long trips.
Other things you should bring:
Tire repair kit/Air compressor. $55 At amazon.
Headlamp.
Lithium-ION jump starter.
Solar charged power bank.
USB outlet for the bike.
Frog Toggs (You will get rained on)
Boot Gaiters (You will get rained on and your feet will get wet)
Surgical gloves (for cleaning the bike and keeping your hands dry)
Other things you should consider:
Avoid the interstate unless you have no other choice. Take the highways, the state roads. It'll be a slower, more scenic and enjoyable trip.
Make sure your bike insurance will spring for a flatbed if you need a tow.
Talk to the people you meet in the small towns you ride through. I've seen some truly amazing vistas and scenery that I wouldn't have ever known about had I not chatted with that old codger at the diner. They can also give you the scoop on any good spots to camp.
It's 100 times easier to just unscrew a valve core, just enough to let the air out, then screw it back in.
these ones are good, /u/chilton_squid saved me when I was stranded with a puncture using one of these. Would have been so much easier if I just kept one on me
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gear-Gremlin-GG170-Tyre-Repair/dp/B00CCE6100/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1517753622&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=gremlin+tyre+repair
This is the one I currently have https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gear-Gremlin-GG170-Tyre-Repair/dp/B00CCE6100/
I should really look up on youtube how to use it in case something happens while I have no phone reception.
I used to have the around the corner car guy mount my tires. I'd bring him the rims. Then I'd bring it to the local motorcycle dealer to have them high-speed balanced. This saved me $10 instead of having the local dealer mount and balance. I bought a pair of tire irons and Ride-On sealant and now mount and balance my own. The key in mounting is to get the tires hot. Either by leaving out in the sun our using a heat gun. Here is a link to the sealant. https://www.amazon.com/Ride-Motorcycle-Balancer-Sealant-41208/dp/B00DX8BTUG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549054778&sr=8-3&keywords=rideon+tire+sealant
There can be a tiny bit of a vibration for the first few low speed miles but after that it's like rails at any speed including 100+mph. Bonus: puncture protection!
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I would keep using it, but use Ride-on sealant before going another mile. Should be good then.
Ride-On Tire Balancer and Sealant -8 oz. - M/C 41208EACH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DX8BTUG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lu1Tzb3Q9PPGE
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006NE3KE/
LFTL.
If you think it's mostly through the tread I would just complete the puncture and use a plug kit to patch http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ET525K/ref=s9_top_hm_awbw_b13u23_g263_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-11&amp;pf_rd_r=0SA3YB452VVP3N16PZ0Y&amp;pf_rd_t=30901&amp;pf_rd_p=659a304f-fb85-5f26-beb6-828a8e1c046a&amp;pf_rd_i=15706711
I know a lot of folks will recommend a tire patch (as opposed to the plug) but are cheap and I've found them to be really effective. Very easy diy.
Damn not even a tire thumper?
http://www.amazon.com/RoadPro-RPTT-1-Thumper-19-Inches-Assorted/dp/B001JT5CFY
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003YXDJO4?pc_redir=1404496690&amp;robot_redir=1#
Those valves are called Schrader valves. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BQHABMS/ref=pd_aw_sim_263_1?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41sWM7cwcJL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C100_&amp;refRID=1QGTNY87QY91M3X1A78W
You kidding me? This is the easiest tire damage to fix. Get a plug kit like this for under $10 at the nearest auto parts place, follow the directions and throw a plug in, continue driving. I've put probably 5,000 miles on a set of rear tires, both of which had plugs in similar locations. Saved the day when a girl I know thought she was totally SOL and would have to buy a new tire.
Any small, round puncture like that will plug very well.
> https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K
How about you fix your horrible horrible horrible links in the future so that the spam filters don't nail you? I've taken this post out of the spam bin but won't again.
Deflate their tires with a valve core remover:
http://www.amazon.com/Professional-Tire-Valve-Core-Removal/dp/B003YXDJO4
Only $8
I've been wanting to do this for a long time.
Hey, they can do it, but then what? You're really going to leave your car unattended after jacking a spot I'm waiting for? That's not a great idea if you like your car and want to preserve its present condition.
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FWIW, one of these comes in handy for removing the valves from someone's tires. No damage, just a major inconvenience.