It is a travelers portable door lock.

What is your solution for the shower hair? I've just been draino blasting it when it gets clogged.

Edit: Wow I have a lot of replies!

Here are the top suggestions:

1. Take a coat hangar and bend it into a hook, then jimmy-jam that sucker down the pipe and pull out the hair debacle.
   
   
2. Similar to a coat hangar is this little spiky dildo that goes in easy but comes out like a horny duck. It promises to fuck the hair right out of the drain and is $2-4 online or at your local hardware store.
   
   
3. Never let the offending hair get down the drain in the first place; brush it out first, stick it to the wall, or use a handy drain prophylactic. (again, online or at your local fix-it store)
   
   
4. Various formulations of DIY draino, most common being bleach and boiling water. (Hot water will denature some proteins all on its own)

You might want to invest in one of these!

Addalock - (1 Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00186URTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_12TKBbV17C946

Even if someone manages to pick your lock, this will stop them from actually being able to open your door - only if someone is home though, it can't be used if no one is inside to place it. I know of at least one story where it prevented a woman's rape.

Knife nut here. Allow me to expound.

Serrated vs Straight - Serrations are good for cutting tough soft things. Thick rope and such. Not much else.

Locking Blade with Pocket Clip - Gerber is awful. Avoid at all costs. Seriously. The construction is sub par and the materials are worse.

Kershaw is a good budget recommendation. Of the Kershaws, I would recommend the entire Ken Onion design lineup (the Leek, the Shallot, and the Chive are the three I would purchase myself. In fact, I own all three)

For the more expensive (and, frankly, gorgeous) options, I cannot recommend Benchmade enough. So many classy blades. In fact, Bechmade gets its own category.

Benchmade - Model 586: Aluminium + black G10 handles, AXIS lock, classy as fuck.

Bali-songs: Models 32, 51, 62, 63, and 67. Interesting little (and big) blades. Very fun, extremely beautiful, and a real crowd pleaser.

And that's all I'm going to type for now (at work). If you are interested, check out Benchmade, Knifecenter, and such. Feel free to head over to /r/knives /r/knifeclub for more information, or just ask me, here in comments or with a PM, if you have any questions.

Oh, and do be careful with those balis. They are partially toys, but very very sharp toys.

EDIT: I will add more when I get home late tonight if I remember to.

Also if the house is pre-1960s, get this little gizmo and test for grounded outlets. Three-pronged outlets do NOT automatically mean they're grounded. It doesn't necessarily mean you need to rewire the house or anything, but it's something to be aware of.

I'll interpret "guy stuff" as "EDC stuff".

• A Flowfold Minimalist slim wallet
  
• A Zebra F-701 stainless steel pen with a Fisher Space refill so it can write anywhere. This isn't a "tactical" pen by LE/TSA standards, but is a solid stainless steel tube, if you know what I mean.
  
• If you prefer something smaller, a Fisher Space Bullet Space Pen and/or a Zebra Mini mechanical pencil TS-3.
  
• You might also want something to write on, and a 3-pack of Field Notes, Pitch Black Edition in Dot-Grid isn't a bad choice unless you're into fountain pens, in which case you'd be better served with a Clairefontaine or. Rhodia pocket notebook. (They will feather fountain pen ink less, resulting in finer lines.)
  
  Bonus item: This isn't under $30, but $45 wil buy you a Leatherman Skeletool, which is one of the most universally useful items I own.
  
  Edit: "EDC" stands for Every Day Carry. To paraphrase the /r/EDC sidebar, EDC means the essentials that I carry a daily basis. Things that I either use every day, or want to have with me in case I might need them. Sorry for the confusion, /u/ForgottenEcho and /u/Sanctitas.

Phone

Wallet

Bert’s Bees

Pocket Knife

Multitool (When clothing allows)

A good ink pen

Mini composition book for random notes and stuff

And a small “boo-boo” kit, NOT a full first aid kit, (mostly a few different sizes of bandaids, burn ointment, triple antibiotic ointment, Benadryl, and Ibuprofen.)

E:words and stuff

I've only had to repair an outlet a few times but this method is pretty safe:

Flip the breakers for the outlets in the room (do NOT trust the labels on a breaker box, lazy contractors often fail to label properly), then take an outlet tester and plug it into both outlets on the one you're working on AND a neighboring outlet. If it doesn't light up, you're good to start opening up the outlet.

Triple-check that the wiring is done right when you're finished and cable nuts/clamps fully secure all wires then power back on the breaker. Test again with an outlet tester before plugging in any electronics. IMMEDIATELY flip off the breaker again if the tester does not show the correct led light set.

The important part of doing any home repairs is never assume that something is off, or that there's no juice going to that wire. Check always anyway. 10 seconds of testing saves 10 days in a hospital.

Just got a new safe for xmas, hated the lighting in it so got started on a DIY lighting project. Spent 20 minutes and $24, its pressure sensitive and lights up all compartments.

• LED Strip - $7.99
  
• Switch - $5.90
  
• Power Source - $9.59
  
  Edit: The Safe is a Mesa
  
  

Pro tip:

To prevent Poseidon's Kiss, grab a lil handful of toilet paper and lay it in the water (in the "target area"), before you go. Paper gives a nice little "landing pad", if you will, and your butt will stay dry.

Also, I just got a bidet and it's the best fucking thing in the world. America is waaay behind on this. I got this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Luxe-Bidet-Neo-320-Non-Electric/dp/B00A0RX2UI/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=bidet&qid=1565294427&s=grocery&sr=1-5-catcorr

it was easy to install and keeps you feeling sooo clean. Also need to use paper only to dry yourself. That way I don't feel so wasteful to drop a few squares in the potty before I go #2.

^sorry ^for ^the ^tmi!

Yep, the Neo 320, never look back haha

Luxe Bidet Neo 320 - Self Cleaning Dual Nozzle - Hot and Cold Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (blue and white) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RX2UI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jz2iDb8K9DFPZ

Something like this might be helpful to you, unless you think it'll cause her to escalate. Ripping the door open like that is sexually abusive, though. You have a right to your privacy.

The one I have is the Luxe 320 which has both nozzles and a hot water connection. Super easy to connect, and because I rent, I just have the plasticky hose coming underneath the door to the under the sink bit.

https://www.amazon.com/Luxe-Bidet-Neo-320-Non-Electric/dp/B00A0RX2UI

Less than $5 on Amazon.

I even got sick of my Zircon studfinder's flakiness so I sprung for a $8 magnetic one and I dig it. It does take a lil longer because you need to hit on a screw/metal, but I still grab it before my electric one.

EDIT: This is the one on Amazon, which is not where I purchased it (local HD for me), but same product and price.

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VYySCbNCT7D0D

I say invest in 2 things: a door wedge and an AddALock device.

If your door has a good latch bolt on it, you don't have to invest in a whole lock. I've discovered an invention called an AddaLock that just fits right in the little slither between the door and door frame. When it's locked in place, it keeps the door from ever opening, regardless of how hard you try to open it. Of course, it's only as strong as the door's wood.

Amazon link - it's small and easy to install, and it really works.

EDIT: You cannot lock a door from the outside with the AddALock. It only works from the inside. Keep that in mind.

Naw, just get one of these. Way easier and will tell you about upstream issues.

> And one would think that the installer should test that kind of stuff.

If you had someone come to your house to install a big-screen TV, would you expect them to check the outlets to make sure they were wired correctly?

What I would do if I were you: Go to you local hardware store and buy an outlet tester like this - shouldn't be more than five or six bucks. Plug that sucker in and look at the lights. It will tell you instantly if the outlet is wired correctly or not.

If it isn't, call an electrician to fix that.

I'd put a chain up, and use it whenever you are home. If you can't do that (screw holes, etc.) there are security door stoppers or this device that stops maintenance people, even if they have a key.

Addalock - (1 Piece ) Portable Door Lock, Travel Lock, AirBNB Lock, School Lockdown Lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00186URTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Pvo3Cb33744FX


Just got this from Amazon the other day. I love it. Take it with you anywhere. Works great. I leave my home at 1am and my kids and wife stay at home alone and this makes her feel much much more secure.

This is a tool you need! I switched from a traditional wall-irregularity finder to one of these and it leveled up my handyman skill.

Your home may be universally wired incorrectly...

Get one of these things at the hardware store and check: https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-3-Wire-Receptacle-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA

In the meantime, when you are home, invest in one of those door stops so that he can't enter the apartment. You aren't changing the locks, but you're preventing entry. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00186URTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_nq2qzbHH6H744

These bad boys for every lamp in the apartment. Makes turning on all the lights (in the morning, walking in/out the door, etc) a complete breeze. It's a real game changer.

Also, I velcroed my remotes to the side of my coffee table so I always have them handy.

I suggest this:

http://amazon.com/dp/B000BO9204

3 or 4 bucks at a hardware store. In/out and the drain is clear, 10 seconds. No fishing around with a coat hanger. Reaches way the hell farther down around corners than you can with a coat hanger.

It sounds like some of the outlets might have a reversed hot/neutral. Get a cheap outlet tester to find out. And a pigtail adapter to test the 2-prong outlets. Fixing it is pretty simple if you are comfortable working with wiring.

You absolutely lock your door every single time and just flat out tell her "I'm locking my door. This is not negotiable."

In addition to locking your door, get a few other things:

• a "travel door alarm" that basically hangs on the doorknob or slides under a door like a doorstop and goes off if someone tries to enter
  
  random example: https://www.amazon.com/Doberman-Security-Portable-Alarm-alarms/dp/B000KDUCU0
  
  
• if legal in your area/legal for a minor, consider something like pepper spray
  
  
• added door security, google around for "traveler safety" items like these sorts of things
  https://www.amazon.com/Addalock-Portable-Travel-AirBNB-Lockdown/dp/B00186URTY
  
  
• If your mother owns the apartment vs. rents then you can also add a standard door chain

Thats why its useful to lock your door from the inside. You can use addition locks like this or just a chair wedged under the handle.

www.amazon.com/Rishon-Enterprises-Addalock-1-Piece/dp/B00186URTY/


It takes about 30 seconds to pick the lock on even high end dead bolt locks. Consumer grade door security is garbage.

Here is someone using two bobby pins in less than a minute.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BnS6leHfB2c

You can make bump keys, electric lock picks, manual picks, etc, etc. The locks on your door mean nothing to someone who understands how basic they are.

If you suspect someone is entering your house like this you can set traps to detect them. Place some small pieces of dust or "trash" like paper in windowsills where if someone came in and out they would disrupt it. Remember or write down the exact positions of these items. Similarly, when you leave your house reach inside the door and place a small piece of trash right behind the door so if its opened the trash will be blown or otherwise moved from the position you remember placing it in. Carefully open the door and check your trap when getting home. They might see the trap but it doesn't matter, they already triggered it and you will know no matter what that someone was there.

>I keep a metal baseball bat by my bed now and I will use it.

Make sure you know how to swing it well. If I saw someone with a bat it wouldn't really make me hesitate and in fact would just make me think they were focusing too much on the bat as a useful weapon when its really not, especially inside a house where you'll almost always not have room to generate power.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7JSMEOv4dXQ

I would suggest a Ruger .380 LCP loaded with high quality ammo kept in a fingerprint locked safe. Total cost is under $500.

http://www.amazon.com/BARSKA-Opening-Biometric-Fingerprint-Safe/dp/B004FO37AC/

http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/54585

Make sure you bolt the safe down so your children don't get any ideas later on in life. Also, make sure you teach them gun safety before they're teenagers. The four rules. Treat all guns as if loaded. Never point a gun at something you wouldn't accept being destroyed. Know your target and what is beyond it. Finger off the trigger/out of the trigger gurd at all times until you want to shoot.

Portable door lock.

For extra security at a hotel or whatever.

Leatherman skeletool

RovyVon

Looks like a pretty cool light. Now I just need to get my comment karma over 100 lol

Going through undergrad commencement this weekend had me thinking about my time in undergrad and more specifically, those things I chose to carry with me almost every day.

Starting from the upper right hand corner and working my way around in clockwise direction.

Pens – 3 Disposable Bic pens – When it comes to pens I leave them everywhere. I leave them in class, the lab, the machine shop, etc. Because of this I buy them in bulk and then just carry a bunch of disposable pens with me. They are cheap so if I lose one or someone asks to borrow one I don’t worry about getting them back. I like these pens because I find they are comfortable to write with, wont break from me carrying them around or treating them like shit, and have a pen cap to prevent them from making a mess in my pocket. Why no pencils?  I haven’t found a mechanical pencil that is both cheap and will survive in my pocket. If you know of one that fits those two requirements let me know in the comments!

Highlighter – Used for marking up academic papers I am reading. I’ll usually carry one or two with me but I keep several different colors at home for heavy markup. The colors I like carrying on me are odd colors, not yellow, like green and pink because they let my markups stand out from other peoples markups.

Sharpie – Used for marking up things that pens and highlighters can’t like metal, ceramics, and sleeping lab mates.

USB Drive – I don’t use it all that often thanks to free services like Google Drive and Dropbox but  everyone in a while when you don’t have access to other options these can really save you. For example like when you need to print out a final report that’s due in 15 minutes and the internet is down. (That example definitely hasn’t happened to me)

Letherman Skeletool – The Skeletool is a good all around multi-tool. It has a knife, pliers, wire cutters,/strippers, screwdriver (both flat an Philips), and a bottle opener.  It’s slim so its easy to carry without giving up a lot of functionality.

Timex Weekender Chrono – Useful for telling time if durring both meetings and tests when you cant check your phone. Taking a peek at your watch durring a meeting is unnoticeable unlike when you check your phone which can be considered rude.

TI-84 – The second most useful tool in my entire engineering education after a pen. I’ll often use the calculator instead of Matlab or Wolfram Alpha for doing homework that require simple computations just because I’m so familiar with it that I can operate it extremely quickly just from muscle memory.

Planner –  It’s useful for writing down assignment due dates and meetings. Everyone has a different way of organizing events/work an I find havving a written copy helps me visualize where everything is.

Muji Recycle Paper Bind Notebook – Useful for taking notes in meetings and they can fit in my back pocket

Allett Slim Bifold Wallet – It’s an ultra thin bifold wallet that I love. It’s so thin I never even notice it in my pocket. I can sit on it all day without being uncomfortable. My last one became worn out after two years and I bought another one immediately. I highly recommend them!

Keys –  For opening doors/stuff. Note: I just grabbed some unused keys for this pic and put them on a carabiner.

Google  Pixel – It’s taking the photo. Lately its mostly been used for snap chat

This will keep him out without damaging the door: Addalock

This one causes an alarm to go off (which I like because it may train him): Anndason Door Stop Security Alarm with 120 DB Siren

You think you are, but you’re not quite ready... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RX2UI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_e4jDCbW4RMFSF

I'd be weirded out if bidets suddenly exploded, but not if it was in popularity. I have one of these at home and it's awesome...makes me hate traveling though, a few days away from that and you really start to miss it.

try this bidet feels better than wiping anyway and gets you way more clean plus this model has hot water hookup for those cold mornings

Parts bought for under $20...

LED Lights - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

T Taps - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DFZ8CBV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can get a Zip-It which does the same thing for about $2.50 at Lowes or Home Depot. It is disposable, though, not reusable.

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aMyRAbZN3XD11

It's a magnet. Foolproof. Which I need because I've never had much luck with the electronic ones.

That isn't true at all. I can get away with a simple magnet and just use it to find a sheetrock screw.

Look at this stud finder on amazon -
CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_mPogzb17D3WA9

4.5 out of 5 stars with over 7,000 reviews and only costs $9.99. Thing doesn't even require batteries.

I would tell people the exact opposite of what you said. Don't waste $30-40 on a stud finder when a $9 one will work just as well.

Came to recommend this, specifically this kind of lock which doesn’t require special install so is perfect for an apartment. Addalock - (1 Piece ) Portable Door Lock It doesn’t look like much but will keep your door locked even if someone has a key.

Could you use one of these portable locks? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00186URTY/

Zip-it's ... a plastic thing that goes down the drain and pulls up the hair. All it is that's clogging your drain is hair, and this avoids putting very harsh chemicals down your sink (which is bad for your plumbing as well as the environment!)

I've found them a lot cheaper than this, but this is the product: http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Products-00412BL-Zip-It-Cleaning/dp/B000BO9204

And even though it says it can't be reused, it totally can. Eventually the little teeth fall off and you have to get a new one but you can get like 20 uses out of 'em, or more if you just pull the hair off of them when you're done using them.

Buy a 5 dollar Zip product at your favorite discount store. You can just rinse and reuse for a long time and they work great for long hair removal. Amazon

1. Fire Extinguisher
   
2. Plunger
   
3. Bleach (even if you don't use it in the laundry)
   
4. A crock pot
   
5. A humidifier/dehumidifier as needed.
   
6. A screen door for either the front or back door
   
7. These: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQELHBS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
8. Tupperware
   
9. A good kitchen knife or two (better than getting a cheap set of 12
   
10. A grill

highqualitysuggestions.jpg

Your verdict: 8/10

Kudos to you for being ahead of most of your college peers in the exciting field of interior decorating! The lion poster really ties the room together. Keep the place this clean and score big points with the females.

Buy some plants and put them on that windowsill and your desk. Please don't over water them.

When you buy art make sure it's majority black or white. Colored accents are fine but something too loud can mess with the black and white feng shui you got goin' on.

Buy these LED lights. Better yet buy two of 'em so you know all the wall is covered. Slap in the corner between the wall and the ceiling and get some additional light in there - you're going to want something besides the overhead light and your lamp.

Go crazy and experiment with colors. Here's what the place looks like with an orange tone. Here is the place with a cool blue tone. You can also keep it a bright white light if you're a more minimalist person.

Get a place to store all the junk you have on top of your desk. Get some books in there too.

It's currently $29 on Amazon too.

Personally, I would just buy one decent knife for that price. The first set looks like it includes things I already own like a nice pen and mini tool, and the knives are so similar in the second set. I don't like assisted opening either. Just my 2 cents.

Oh you fancy! Mine doesn’t have an air dryer, but that would’ve been very convenient for a pregnant lady!

Get an outlet tester. If this wasn't a problem before, I suspect somebody did a shitty job wiring up your place. If the wiring is faulty... umm... I'm not sure how to fix it but, technically, it should be your landlord's problem but things might not work that way in Indonesia.

I wouldn't plug in the PC until you've got that figured out unless you're OK with with frying your computer to get in a few more rounds of DOTA.

$60, they have some cheaper models but I highly recommend the one with hot water attachment, it's only $10 or 15 more and so worth it. Also the one like this with the lever water adjust instead of dial, it's better at adjusting pressure.

I have this one in both our toilets:

Luxe Bidet Neo 320 - Self Cleaning Dual Nozzle - Hot and Cold Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (blue and white) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RX2UI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6T03BbKZX2T17

sounds like a power surge got the switch... is it plugged into a quality surge protector? Also, try a plug tester like this to make sure the ports are wired up properly and the ground is working. I've seen this happen a few times, and had it happen personally from a messed up plug. Surge suppression is usually only on the live side of the mains.

Another thing to remember, is that the surge suppression components in power strips do degrade over time, and may not provide proper protection.

Seriously...get a Bidet It's a super easy install (you have to be not totally retarded, but it takes like 15 minutes) and you will find that you go from using too much TP to a roll lasting you forever.

It's like the difference between living alone and living with your girlfriend...but all over again. It's amazing, and if you can convince the GF to use the bidet too...you'll reduce your TP usage to only ~12 times what you used when you lived alone instead of 250 times what you used when you lived alone.


Think of it like this...if you got shit all over your hand...would you just wipe it on some dry paper towel and call it a day, or would you wash that shit off? Why are you treating your ass differently?

Remote operated plug things - turn off your plugged-in things with a simple remote. (This 2-remote 5-plug combination is 48 cents over BUT they have a 1-remote 3-plug version). Total lifesaver.

If you want warn water.
Luxe Bidet Neo 320 - Self Cleaning Dual Nozzle - Hot and Cold Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (blue and white) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RX2UI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_EBTWAbHQDEBEP

I prefer the plug tester that actually plugs into the wall because the non-contact ones can be tripped by live wires in the same junction box.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUL2UU/

I think I got mine at a home improvement store for $5. Obviously it's for standard us outlets only.

I just want to hijack this comment to let everyone in here who feels like they are too poor for a bidet, that this one on Amazon is amazing...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A0RX2UI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You're BH will thank you

The receptacle may be grounded. Buy a three-prong adapter. It will have a metal grounding tab on the end that can be screwed into the wall plate. Buy a receptacle tester at any hardware store and plug it into the adapter. It will tell you if there is ground or not.

OP this is actually a problem you should get fixed soon. Stop by a hardware store and pick up an inexpensive outlet tester - it looks like a male three prong plug with lights on the other side and a little chart to tell you what they mean

Test your outlets to confirm they're grounded. As your Mac generates EMI inside it relies on the case for grounding - it can build up a low level of voltage you probably won't feel.

The reason you're picking up an AM station is that radio is a form of radiation and your giant aluminum box is getting hit with. Without a ground - it is one giant antenna funneling all sorts of emi radiation into the box. Not good for the of your computer and could pose a risk to you.

If you find it's not grounded, that's not up to code in most places - work with your landlord or building manger to resolve the issue.


http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Receptacle_tester

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002LZTKIA?pc_redir=1409579983&robot_redir=1

The Ontario RAT has treated me well and is on Amazon for [$27] (http://www.amazon.com/Ontario-8848-Folding-Knife-Black/dp/B0013ASG3E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1375082849&sr=8-4&keywords=ontario+knives)

Portable door lock, too.

Definitely the Ontario Rat 1, in my opinion. Here's the link:

Ontario 8848 RAT Folding Knife (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013ASG3E/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_2uBAwbHX4BTW9

you could always get something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU

lets you know if your outlets are properly grounded. once you find the bad ones, you can work on tieing in new wiring for grounding in rooms that have sensitive electronics you don't want fried.

The coolest things that I have personally bought (under $50 individually) are:

$43 4Sevens Preon Revo - single AAA flashlight(!), 82 lumens(!), excellent construction.

$12 Split Pea Lighter - world's smallest lighter.

$35 Leatherman Skeletool - lightweight, functional, stylish multitool. (Technically when I bought it a couple years ago it was $65. Still worth it!)

That's all I can think of for now. Can you tell that I was a Boy Scout? Also I like tiny things.

Leatherman Skeletool

There are several different versions with different tools, but i love that it has a built in clip to attach to a belt loop. Makes it easy to carry and pull out. I've used mine heavily for 2 years, and its still 100% functional. (worn paint, had to sharpen knife finally)

There is also this set with a scissors/file.

I can't recommend the Kershaw Leek enough. It comes factory sharp enough to shave, it's super slim, and it looks classy as hell.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009VC9Y0/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Il commento più bello potrebbe essere quello che dice di averlo comprato su amazon. Per 50 USD.

>50$

>amazon

>dafuq

Link NSFL per i più avventurosi

Yes! Americans are especially unversed in the use of bidets as they aren't really a thing in the States. After experiencing them in Europe, I had to have one at home. And you can find them for so cheap! We installed this one ourselves and it can hook up to the warm water line

Kershaw Skyline. It's a great folder for EDC use and yet very affordable.

Super lightweight, reliable, easy to operate, ergonomical, safe to use, great blade size and form, and so cheap it's almost disposable.

A great first knife to see what you like about it and later on maybe spend more on something else.

Kershaw Skyline

You might want to travel with a plug tester like this. Would make for an exciting day to find the hot and ground swapped because some idiot didn't know how to hook up a plug properly.

Looks like this one which we have, although the warm water line isn't hooked up. Totally worth it though! This one also has a "female" setting for those gnarly period days. That said, even if you don't get one with warm water hookup (we couldn't hook up the hot line) you'll rarely feel the coldness of the water on your butt hole. Only drawback is feeling like a heathen if you poop anywhere that doesn't have a bidet lmao

Sometimes I find brushing my hair before I shower helps get rid of a few loose hairs which saves my drain from getting clogged as fast. I also keep a trash can right next to the shower so as hair comes loose in the shower I can just put it in the trash instead of down the drain. (this really only works well if you have long hair. When my hair was short it was pretty much impossible to catch it and toss it)

If you're able to remove the drain plug then a plastic zipper style drain cleaner works amazing. I used to buy Drano and it took forever and never really cleaned the drain very well plus it's not very good for your pipes. The zipper cleaner thing physically pulls out all the hair which is faster and more effective than trying to slowly dissolve it. I buy them for cheap from my local hardware store in the plumbing section.

If you can't remove the drain plug then covering the drain with a drain hair catcher works pretty good at catching hairs and drastically slowing down the time it takes to clog the drain. Some of them stick to the tub, some of them just sit on the top of the drain, some are reusable, some are disposable. Depends what your preference is but they work pretty good too and especially on drains that have a plug that is hard to remove.

I prefer this

I've had 100 dollar stud finders that couldn't do what this magnet does. They aren't terribly accurate and require batteries.

It's not normal and is potentially dangerous. It seems likely you have a grounding issue and such problems have, historically, been fatal to some musicians, particularly guitarists, Keith Relf of the Yardbirds for instance. Modern equipment tends to be a lot safer and electrocution is less likely but it's still a risk. While the voltage you've felt, so far, is harmless it could indicate that you're ungrounded and if a fault were to develop with any of the interconnected equipment stray voltage could be present on the conductive surfaces of your gear and the cables connected to them.

You in the US? Get an electrical outlet tester like one of these and test the wall outlets you use. If the tester shows a fault get an electrician to come and repair it. If the wall outlets test as OK, test the first power strip, then the next, then the next, until you find where the fault is and then dispose of that strip and get a new one.

No problem.

Kershaw Scallion (Small, assisted opening, steel is not so great)

Kershaw Skyline (good size, G10, nice blade shape, steel can get to a crazy level of sharpness)

Kershaw OSO Sweet (pretty cool assisted opener, great price there on amazon)

Spyderco Tenacious (same decent steel on the OSO Sweet and Byrd, good G10, good blade shape, Spyderco quality, great value)

Byrd Cara2 (Great value, overseas production brings prices way down on all Byrd knives)


Here is one above your price range

And one below your price range

I believe it is this one from Amazon. I spent a while researching options and drawing up potential plans to make my own before I ultimately decided to buy the two bike gravity mount. Only needs one drill hole and very little risk of it falling. For $45 I can put off a more artistic rack for a while. The thing is rock solid too with a road bike and cross bike on it.

Word of warning: if you order this and it doesn't come in the retailer's box inside the Amazon box send it back immediately and get a replacement. It is used and likely won't come together nicely.

House is usually around 68-70 degrees during winter, so it's really not bad at all.

If that's really your concern you can also get a heated bidet.

you guys need to get the "Attachable Bidet" for your toilets....works like a dream....i have something similar to the link below

https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00A0RX2UI/tramprevie101-20



last but not least this product talks about the benefits of squatting and pooping....and the west makes fun of our Indian toilets...hahahaha

https://www.squattypotty.com/5-problems-with-sitting-on-your-toilet/

https://www.squattypotty.com/press/

Hey RepTime, with my watch cases almost full, I thought it would be a good time to post full collection pics of my watches. The imgur link has full collection pics and up close shots of each watch with full title from the TD. I tried my best with the pics, many of the watches look better in person than what my lack of photo taking skills can display.

Why did I get into replicas?
About 2 years ago, I was in the market for a gen Rolex or Breitling, but then I stumbled upon this subreddit and here we are. I've been collecting for a little more than a year now. Currently at 54 watches with another Tudor on the way.

WTC:
I've only purchased from Intime and Trustytime. Overall, they are about the same, but Trusty time email response times are faster.
I usually bundle about 4-5 watches per order to save on shipping costs, been only buying from trustytime lately due to their lower shipping costs and promo code coupon. I haven't seen any difference in watch prices between the TDs.
Each order usually takes about a 3-4 weeks from order date to delivery. Haven't had any major issues with either TD, customs or watches arriving DOA.

Experience so far:
I don't have any one favorite watch, I like having variety and sometimes change watches throughout the day.
I have not serviced any watch yet, but each watch gets little and infrequent use.

Also, be great if you guys can recommend what my collection is missing!


Links to watch cases, LED light kits, cleaning cloth, and watch resizing tools:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MV3E5PY/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013GX030E/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075CKX85S/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CYPVGWY/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076M6NBWB/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LIJED4U/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My Lighting setup:

1. LED Light Strip (Tape style so you can stick it to the glass)
   
   
2. Power Brick for LEDs
   
   
3. Switch for LEDs (Different styles can be used based on user pref) (!NOTE: these do not dim LEDs)
   
   
   

Get one of these - Zip-It plastic drain cleaning tool. Costs about 3 dollars; pulls this crap out of the drain really easily so you use it more often which prevents worse stuff.

Stud finder, $10: https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1520539096&sr=1-4&keywords=stud+finder

Fixed your link

I hope I didn't jump the gun, but you got your link syntax backward! Don't worry bro, I fixed it, have an upvote!

• Kershaw G10 Hawk
  
  
• Kershaw Skyline
  
  
  
  ^Bot ^Comment ^- ^[ ^Stats ^& ^Feeds ^] ^- ^[ ^Charts ^] ^- ^[ ^Information ^for ^Moderators ^] ^- ^[ ^Live ^Image ^Feed ^]

Although the Instant is an alright knife, I believe that it is overpriced at $40 with a blade of 7Cr17Mov steel.

Kershaw Clash is about 20 bucks, made with better steel (8CR13MOV), assisted opening and also has lifetime warranty.

Kershaw Skyline at the price range of $35 has better steel (14C28N) than the Clash, assisted opening and the same warranty.

As long as you're not exceeding 2000+ watts in the same room, you'll likely be fine as most circuits in the US have 15-20amp breakers/fuses.

No real danger of a blackout or brown out, the computer will just shut off. You could always pick up a UPS backup if you're worried about that.

If you live in a place that has lightning I would recommend a good surge protector, not just a power strip.

Only possible super rare thing I've seen to worry about with electricity and computers is if you have a computer on one outlet and you connect HDMI or similar to a TV that's plugged into another circuit and if there's an issue with wiring in your house/apt it could burn things out. I use one of these http://www.amazon.com/GE-50542-3-Wire-Receptacle-Tester/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1398086820&sr=1-1&keywords=receptacle+tester to test circuits to be sure :P

The Engineer SS-02 changed my life.

I think it's easier to search for minor inconveniences and annoyances around your house, then search for ways to automate it away.

I gotta watch out with this site or I'll end up in the non-automated poorhouse, but it's awesome for product discovery
http://www.smarthomedb.com/products

Since you mentioned OpenHAB, the supported technologies list is a good place to start a wishlist too
http://www.openhab.org/features/supported-technologies.html

I'm using z-wave for most of my devices, so the product database is full of devices that are more likely to be compatible
https://github.com/openhab/openhab/blob/master/bundles/binding/org.openhab.binding.zwave/database/products.xml

This forum thread is also great for seeing what other people have gotten working
https://community.openhab.org/t/collection-of-working-z-wave-configs/1407

Personally, I've had great luck with these devices:

Aeon Labs Aeotec Z-Wave Z-Stick, Gen5 Z-Wave Plus - ZW090 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_cIbCwbYMNV0A4

2gig CT100 Z-Wave Programmable Thermostat (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CQ4V3Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_3IbCwbNFR9PQ6

MIMOLite - Z-wave Mulit-Input/Output Dry Contact Bridge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6RZ7MM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_uKbCwbF1ZBAXK

GE12722 Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control On/Off Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_oLbCwbQCFR48K

GoControl WNK01-21KIT Z-Wave Essentials Wink Enabled Security Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XUXYSWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_p5bCwbRY8TXQ5

I have an old ADT installed Safewatch pro 3000 alarm, and this ties it into OpenHAB really nicely.
http://www.alarmdecoder.com/

I'm comfortable pulling wires through the walls, so I use one of these for TTS playback from my OpenHAB box:
Elk ELK-70 Echo Speaker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XP1HZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_kZbCwb799TN4C

Driven by one of these:
Lepai LP-2020A+ Tripath TA2020 Class-T Hi-Fi Audio Amplifier with Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049P6OTI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_X0bCwb7MYGM47

A few scenarios might help with inspiration.

I have a sensor on my garage entry door that kicks on the laundry room light when the door is opened so I never enter a dark house with my hands full.

If it's 00:00 - 06:00 and any perimeter sensors on the alarm are tripped, all outside and main level lights come on at full brightness

I have a sensor on my garage door to send me an alert if it has been open for more than 15 minutes, and a camera and a mimolite to close it remotely

My wife works nights so I have a mimolite to disable the upstairs doorbell while she's sleeping during the day. It sends our phones alerts if the doorbell is rung while silenced

• ~$7-8 Sanrenmu 7010/710 - You can find these at Gearbest for cheap as hell when they have sales but they're absolutely $30 worth of knife
  
• ~$10-20 Opinel no.6-12 - Depends on blade size/steel/handle wood. #6 is under 3in blade if that kind of thing matters.
  
• ~$20 CRKT Drifter
  
• ~$20 Spyderco Byrd Cara Cara2
  
• ~$20-25 Ontario Rat II or Rat I
  
• ~$30 Victorinox Cadet Alox
  
• ~$30 Kershaw Cryo
  
• ~$35 CRKT Ripple
  
• ~$35 Spyderco Persistence
  
• ~$40 Kershaw Skyline - Often on sale in the ~$30 range
  
• ~$40 Kershaw Leek - Same sales as with the Skyline \^^
  
  Honorable Mention: Case knives. Traditional lockbacks. Hard as nails and pretty to boot. True pocket knives. Your grandfather (possibly great grandfather) had one. Good stuff the lot of them. $25-50 will get you a legacy knife that you can carry and use and then pass to your kid.
  
  You don't need to spend $200 to get a quality, durable, reliable knife. I've owned all of these knives at one time or another and loved every one of them. Sure they needed sharpening more often and sometimes something a little more drastic (Sanrenmus are often cheaper to replace than fix) but the value is insane. Plus, lets face facts; we're much more likely to break out our Cadet when we get box duty than our Sebenza.
  
  Knife enthusiasts (brothers) if there's a weighed and measured cheapo that I forgot, let me know.

Wow dude, either you downplayed the danger of your neighborhood or the severity of your paranoia. That said, here are some options:

If you're just looking for an audible alert, a door entry sensor that makes a tone when tripped (like on store entrances) may work, or you can hang some bells from the door knob. There are also alarm options such as this ( https://www.amazon.com/Door-Wedge-Alarms-pack-2/dp/B00A1DY6WO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1485088469&sr=8-3&keywords=travel+door+jamb+security )


If you're looking for added physical security, there are several temporary/travel lock options:


https://www.amazon.com/Rishon-Enterprises-Addalock-1-Piece/dp/B00186URTY/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485088469&sr=8-1-fkmr3&keywords=travel+door+jamb+security


https://www.amazon.com/Travelers-Security-Lock-Llc/dp/B00AFN2NKW/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1485088469&sr=8-3-fkmr3&keywords=travel+door+jamb+security


Hope this helps, but honestly you may consider moving if it's so bad you have to pile things in front of the door and leave a TV on all night.

Add-a-Lock

That little thing has kept several people from just walking into my hotel room. Chain hotels double book fairly frequently, they also don't change the locks all that often. If you 'lose' a card they may charge you a small fee but it will still open that door. Mid-day rolls around you can assume whoever is in the room is off doing something and you can walk in and take their stuff.

The Leatherman skeletool seems like it would suit your needs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000XU9NXW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1517583057&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=skeletool&dpPl=1&dpID=31AzeWH8zbL&ref=plSrch

Why not try to practice self control and talk to them like an adult first, and reserve losing your shit if it continues after the talk?

It's going to be tough to ask children to be quiet in the middle of the afternoon. It may be best just to move out.

Here are a few options to keep the kids out of your room in the meantime:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YUX8I/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00186URTY/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AFN2NKW/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-lNFJt10w1E

I travel with a similar product, the Addalock. Same concept, but the two pieces are attached together so you can't lose one of them.

Leatherman Skeletool for about $60 and a Pelican 023500-0000-110 flashlight for about $30. It should be noted that those are prices for responsible people who don't lose them. I think I've bought the same leatherman 3 times now.

There is a bidet for $60 on Amazon that connects to both the cold and hot water lines. So if you know where your hot water line is in the bathroom you can connect it so you can have warm water hit you.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A0RX2UI/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_60_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=80SMD311CQZT9GW3FXD1&dpPl=1&dpID=81IIVKyyuTL

So if you live in the cold this will be wonderful and it really pays for itself, you'll be using less tp since you will just dry yourself with it.

There is no 2 device single gang zwave switch on the market at the moment. Most people here either:

• expand the box to be a double gang box and then install a z-wave switch for the lights example, and a z-wave switch for the fan. example It's dimmable (3 speeds)
  
  
• Put a single zwave switch in the wall for the lights, and then put a remote dimmer unit for the fan that hides in the electrical box above the ceiling fan. This limits control to an app, voice with google home/alexa, or getting some sort of zwave multi button scene control to stick on the wall.
  
  
• A modification of the previous. Put remote dimmer/switch for BOTH the light and the fan in the electrical box above the fan (may not fit) and then put a zwave scene controller in the original single gang box switch location.
  
  I was fortunate to have double gang boxes in my house, so I was able to use the seperate GE light and fan switches. Both work well.

I’ve always really liked the Stanley storage units:

Stanley 014725 25-Removable Compartment Professional Organizer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005QWYF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NG3QBbBJF1XYS

Pretty sure it's the hanger part of this bike rack

EDIT: Here's a picture instead of an Amazon link

Just buy a Zip-It (or the generic version). These work really well on tubs and showers for me.

https://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Products-00412BL-Drain-Cleaning/dp/B000BO9204

I use the Stanley 10 bin and 25 bin trays. They're also great for my loose Lego collection so I have a few spares and pull one for whenever I need one in the garage or in the house.

This isn't a perfect solution though. I had to build a rack in order to store all of these containers. Also, it is a 2 step process to get anything out: 1) remove the tray from the rack and 2) open the container to get what I need. I'm fine with this though because it is ultra portable and the 2 step method isn't too much of a hinderance. Also, this way the storage density is pretty high and I can keep a lot of stuff in a small space.

For reference, this was the Kershaw Leek 3" blade

I actually find this really simple and useful https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ACAM38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_61tNDbEHJ6YQP

For my small apartment, I bought this off Amazon. It leans up against the wall and can be used as a bike stand for maintenance.

Edit: For $50 it's been great: amazon link

i live in a studio and i have 4 bikes on two of these https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ACAM38/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My bikes are part of the deco, i made room specifically for them, people know i'm a cyclist and the bikes don't look the least bit off. No way i'd leave them anywhere else.

Best one that I know of... I use it all the time, very accurate!

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GR7aAbYG0R3YB

Use a powerful magnet to locate the nails in the wall. When you find a vertical row of nails that is where the stud is.

This one is awesome:

https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=magnet+stud+finder&qid=1554615529&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I picked up a bunch of cheap part drawers like these when they were on sale at a local store. Very easy to organize stuff if you have the desk space.

I use these to organize and store SMD components.

I use these enormously big-ass cabinetrys to store thru-hole components such as ICs in DIP packages.

Electrical outlet tester - Use on each outlet in the home to make sure all is working properly and not needing work done. I used Sperry Tester
Test the sinks, toilets and showers. Run both cold water and hot water through each sink/shower and flush the toilets a couple of times.
Ask about pest control, how often, who does it.
How do you contact maintenance for any requests? How quickly can they come out to assist?
Check the windows and make sure they can open, or are securely locked.
Who has keys to your location? Did the last tenant turn in all keys? Can you get the location re-keyed for a small fee?
Hope this helps!

So in my mind, the basics of an EDC are a knife, a flashlight, a pen, and a notebook. Depending on your preference/level of preparedness, though, multitools are great, a gun is convenient if you're in a dangerous place with any regularity, and a first-aid kit can literally be a lifesaver.

So for the basics I'd recommend:
Knife: a Kershaw Leek or Scrambler. The Leek is smaller, more discreet, very light, and razor sharp. The Scrambler is considerably more robust, has a longer blade (3.5" vs. 3"), but weighs more as well. Both can be found in Kershaw's "Blackwash" finish, which I like both for the feel and for the added rust and scratch resistance. Both are also spring-assisted, which is legal in a lot of places, but check your local laws before carrying either in public. If you can't carry them, take a look at the Cold Steel Voyager. It comes in several lengths, is legal in California, and is very durable, if not super comfortable.

Flashlights: Oh my god, the flashlights. LEDs have become so cheap and so bright over the last few years that it's actually pretty hard to go wrong. Nitecore is currently my favorite brand, but Fenix has some options as well. I would urge you not to buy a surefire; they are undeniably great lights, but unless you expect to encounter truly extraordinary circumstances on a regular basis (any chance your light could fall under a tank or a bulldozer? maybe surefire is for you), they tend to be somewhat more pricey per lumen than a number of other companies. For EDC, the Fenix PD35 2014 edition is almost unmatched. Almost a thousand lumens, takes rechargeable batteries, and small enough to drop into the front pocket of your jeans, if you don't want to use the included clip or holster. If you'd like something more keychain sized, the Nitecore SENS series comes in several sizes and battery types, and automatically adjusts the brightness of the beam based on the light's orientation. Aim it at your feet and you get a soft glow; aim it off into the woods and it grows steadily brighter.

Let's be honest, a pen is going to get lost. The best pen is one you like enough to keep track of, but one you won't miss too terribly should some co-worker walk off with it. I like the Zebra F-301. Writes smooth, classic stainless steel good looks, and comes in RGB & Black. Notebooks depend entirely on personal preference too, but the smallest Moleskine is easily pocketable and has 32 lined pages.

In my mind, there is only one name in multitools. Leatherman has a kick-ass reputation, a 25-year warranty, and a plethora of tools to suit any need. For the casual EDC, I'd go with what I believe is the second-lightest full size tool, the Skeletool. 7 functions include a knife that opens while the rest of the tool is closed, the ubiquitous pliers/wirecutters, two double-sided bits and a driver; and it looks so. freakin. cool.

I dunno much about guns except that of all the things I've listed, a pistol should be the one you consider most carefully, especially whether you need it or not. It's a big investment and a bit of a lifestyle adjustment if you decide to go CCW. I've always heard 9mm and up, so use that as a jumping-off point.

First aid kits are useless unless they're both small enough to be carried anywhere and large enough to contain anything you might need. Making your own is a good idea because you have the best knowledge of your environment, but I found a couple on Amazon which seem to have most of the basics without too much fluff or bulk. The first could be stuffed in a jacket pocket, whereas the second would be useful in a car.

I hope I helped. Good luck!

[Kershaw Scrambler] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I04MOIO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[Kershaw Leek] (http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1660BLKW-Folding-BlackWash-SpeedSafe/dp/B00J14BOBU/ref=pd_sim_sg_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=1MHD47WR72RJ9HJVWCZN)

[Cold Steel Voyager, 3 inch] (http://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-Voyager-Tanto-Plain/dp/B00322LQB0/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1417535788&sr=1-5&keywords=cold+steel+voyager)

[Fenix PD35 2014] (http://www.amazon.com/Fenix-PD35-Flashlight-EdisonBright-Batteries/dp/B00DR9GWX0/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1417536075&sr=1-1&keywords=fenix+pd+35)

[Nitecore SENS AA version]
(http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-Flashlight-Active-Dimming-Lumens/dp/B008J4CHNW/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1417536301&sr=1-2&keywords=nitecore+sens)

Zebra F-301

[Moleskine "Cahier" Notebook, pack of 3] (http://www.amazon.com/Moleskine-Cahier-Journal-Pocket-Ruled/dp/8883704894/ref=sr_1_1?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1417536675&sr=1-1&keywords=moleskine+small)

[Leatherman Skeletool] (http://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-830846-Skeletool-Multitool/dp/B000XU9NXW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417536920&sr=8-1&keywords=skeletool)

[Small bag or pocket first aid kit] (http://www.amazon.com/AAA-Piece-Commuter-First-Aid/dp/B000SL0R9K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417537142&sr=8-2&keywords=first+aid+kit)

Larger car first aid kit

EDIT: aspace

If you have a few bucks lying around, the easiest way to answer this question is to have you buy a decent knife and see for yourself how much better it is. For a nice folder in your size range, the Ontario Rat1 would be a nice start...it's only $25 (which is a very low price for a quality knife), its 3.5" blade is big enough to do most things you'll need it to do while also being legal to carry almost everywhere (in the US), it's supposed to have a buttery smooth pivot action, and it has a decent blade steel (AUS-8) as opposed to the who-knows-what in a typical gas station knife. And yes, the steel alloy does make a lot of difference, a good blade will hold a sharp edge for longer, be tough enough to withstand some abuse, be flexible enough that it doesn't shatter easily, and unlike crap "stainless" steel it will actually remain rust-free under reasonable conditions. The heat treatment of the blade also contributes to these traits, and I can guarantee that Ontario does a better heat-treat than whoever made your $7 gas station knife...which probably didn't receive any treatment. If the Rat1 isn't your style, Kershaw makes a bunch of budget-friendly (~$30) knives that are also pretty highly regarded, something like the Cryo which has spring-assisted opening or the very sexy Skyline which isn't assisted opening. And if those aren't to your liking, then Spyderco makes a couple budget folders, one of them being the Resilience which has a bigger 4.25" blade and nice G10 handles, you may like that one for the bigger size. Might wanna check the legality in your area though...

So yeah, apart from working better, a nice knife also has a much smaller chance of failing and cutting off your finger, which is the main reason that I cringe a little bit when people use bad knives...I just don't want to see someone who doesn't know any better get hurt by a knife they thought would work fine. Unfortunately, I do see plenty of knives like that around r/EDC, but maybe I just hang out in /r/knives too much.

https://www.amazon.com/Ontario-Knife-ON8848-BRK-Rat-1/dp/B0013ASG3E/

The Ontario RAT Model 1 and the Byrd CaraCara 2 are worth looking at.

$100 to spend? Lets get him started out right!

Fixed blade knife and Saw for Bushcraft tasks:

Bahco has a combo kit with a Mora fixed blade knife and a folding saw for $28.50 at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Bahco-LAP-KNIFE-Laplander-Folding-Multi-Purpose/dp/B008ZG8S0A

Folding Knife for food prep:

Add an Opinel #8 for $20: https://www.amazon.com/Opinel-Carbon-Blade-Folding-Knife/dp/B002SCUO04/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3OVY093ZE8FB9&keywords=opinel+no+8&qid=1573841922&sprefix=opinel%2Ctools%2C152&sr=8-4

or an Ontario RAT 1 for $25: https://www.amazon.com/Ontario-8848-Folding-Knife-Black/dp/B0013ASG3E/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=ontario+rat+1&qid=1573842093&sr=8-1

Axe for fire prep:

Cold Steel Trail Boss fo $32: https://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-CS90TA-BRK-Trail-Boss/dp/B001CZ9UY4/ref=sr_1_1?crid=21DD9KF7WOYCB&dchild=1&keywords=cold+steel+trail+boss&qid=1573842210&sprefix=cold+steel+trail%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-1

Total

That pretty much covers all things pointy and sharp to get him started in bushcraft for a grand total of $85.50

As he learns and develops more bushcraft skills he can upgrade when needed but this will get him started out with some solid gear.

This is really weird and probably impossible. If you want to be able to lock it and leave, but it needs to be discreet so nobody on the outside knows it's there? I mean all they have to do is try and open it to know it's now locked. Isn't this then the problem, you want it to be unknown that it's locked? Just change the door knob, it's only a keyhole exposed. I suppose you could add a child lock plastic cover to cover the lock...You really need to explain your problem with making it obvious that a lock now exists for people to help.

Any device added to it will either be obvious as well, although there is this device that you can use to lock while you are in the room that would not be obvious from the outside, but if you need to leave and keep it locked then you would be out of luck.

Look into code, don't cut corners and get yourself one of these outlet testers to check your work. Like someone else said, hooking up sub panels and big jobs, have someone come in.

I'm lucky my brother in law is a very professional electrician, I always check my plans with him and I do all the work. He'll come and make the connection at the panel just to be safe, but after watching him I'd feel comfortable doing that.

Awesome solder sucker. I swear by that thing!

https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4

Warm up your kitchen space with a butcher block table, maybe something reclaimed? Consider moving your desk as its the very first thing you see when you walk through the door. The living room/kitchen is a long space so no matter what your living room furniture will be a focal point. It looks like a nice updated apartment, I think an industrial decor with a splash of bohemian conversation pieces would officially make this place baller. Below are two photos that I think you should marry together.

http://www.renopedia.com.sg/products/blogimg/4801Industrial-home-decor-furniture.jpg

http://www4.pictures.lonny.com/lo/Bohemian+Living+Room+white+sectional+neutral+Ju6Ho_WaJ1xl.jpg


You should find a desk with some character:
http://cdn.homedit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Rustic-desk.jpg
(and some wire management wouldn't hurt)

You have some space near the entryway beside the cabinet, I like having a table there to place my keys/wallet/phone when I come home.
https://img1.etsystatic.com/015/0/6671391/il_fullxfull.426696237_o5vl.jpg

You need some huge art. If you have a Buddha in the can, you should have one in the living room!
http://myoshka.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/buddha_mural_2.jpg?w=510

I like the natural light, but does it feel like an operating room at night with the lights on? You'll need some lamps:
http://2i.c-b.co/is/image/CB2/GroveFloorLampAVF14/&$web_zoomTrans$&/1406251340/groove-floor-lamp.jpg
http://www.homestreetdesign.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/Standing-lamp-designs-113.jpg
http://i00.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/1907182050/Vintage-Personality-font-b-Table-b-font-Lamps-Water-Pipe-Light-Props-Bedroom-font-b-Bedside.jpg
Pair them up with one of these bad boys so the ladies all think you're a rocket surgeon:
http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-ZAP-5LX-Auto-Programmable-Function/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417982915&sr=8-1&keywords=remote+outlet

You need a place to check out the goods:
http://www.favething.com/uploads/images/main-fave-images/mirror_framed_in_large_reclaimed_boards-1.jpg

The bathroom just needs color, consider more vibrant towels and floor mat.

Last but not least, green. Studies show, people with plants are happier. Consider taking advantage of all the natural light with something like this:
http://s3-us-west-1.amazonaws.com/static.brit.co/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/Hawaiian-Umbrella-Bonsai-Tree1.jpg

>7)These: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQELHBS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Yes sir these will be bought. Good lookin out

[This] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A0RX2UI/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1497200985&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bidet&dpPl=1&dpID=41KyuEGg5FL&ref=plSrch) is the one I have. "Quick and easy installation" is riggory and buffoonery because it took me all day and like 3 trips to Lowe's (although admittedly I was getting drunk while doing it) but it was so worth it.

Hope I tagged this correctly, bit of a noob so my bad if I didn't.

From left to right in case someone is curious: Fremy Speeddraw (Rokka no Yuusha), Tsukiko Tsutsukakushi (HenNeko), Ao Nanami (Yozakura Quartet)

I have a couple other figures pre-ordered. Going to get a detolf soon to display them in. Does anyone have suggestions for lighting them? I was thinking of getting something like this but I'm definitely open to suggestions if anyone has more experience in the matter.

edit: added figure names + links

I'll link the full order:

• LED light strip
  
• LED light strip power connector 8mm
  
• L-shape LED strip connector
  
• DC power adapter
  
• DC cable extension
  
• DC switch
  
• DC cable splitter
  
  I am not 100% happy with the light strip I got. They are super sensitive to the power draw and flickers time to time(maybe it's the power adapter =/). Though, it's cheap and does its job pretty well!
  
  [EDIT] correcting the led power connect as opinted out by /u/BishoujoReview
  
  [EDIT] flickering was due to an old extension cord. I plugged the power adapter directly to the wall outlet and that solved the problem.

I've got one of these, it would work great for this.

I have 6 of these: Akro-Mils 10164 64 Drawer Plastic Parts Storage Hardware and Craft Cabinet, 20-Inch by 16-Inch by 6-1/2-Inch, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDH3JC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Qf4fzbJNF7ZWV

GFCI Outlet Testers

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Power-Gear-GFCI-Tester-50957/206212330

https://www.amazon.com/all-sun-EM9807-GFCI-Outlet-Tester/dp/B01ID5V05C/

https://www.harborfreight.com/electrical-receptacle-tester-with-gfci-diagnosis-32907.html

https://www.walmart.com/ip/GB-Gardner-Bender-GFI6302-GFCI-Outlet-Tester/19301304

https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Sperry-GFCI-Outlet-Tester-GFI6302/301961462

https://www.menards.com/main/electrical/wiring-accessories/testers/sperry-trade-instruments-gfci-outlet-tester/p-1444431011517-c-6452.htm

Leatherman Skeletool http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XU9NXW

This ballast makes cheap LED strips integrate into your Hue setup. It works perfectly with mine. Check the Amazon comments for details. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It’s a Stanley professional organizer! Here’s the link

get something not so expensive for your first knife. Here's why:

-Get used to it. Carrying it around, deploy and fold, cut fruit at work with it (see your co-worker's faces when you pull it out). Doing this will let you get use to having one (unfortunately, you will probably lose it).

-Use the shit out of it. cut paper, cardboard, pencils, test it out on thin twigs, branches etc.

-Sharpen it. I don't mean with some cheap easy way of doing it like with a sharpmaker; use a sharpening stone, learn the angles.

-Learn to respect it. No matter how careful you think you are, you will eventually cut yourself doing something you feel is the safe way. You will have a new appreciation for this knife.

I recommend either of these knives (learn the different ways knives can be deployed) http://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Tenacious-Handle-Folding-Plain/dp/B001EI7578/ thumb hole deployment

http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1660-Onion-Folding-SpeedSafe/dp/B0009VC9Y0 - speedsafe

http://www.amazon.com/Ontario-8848-Folding-Knife-Black/dp/B0013ASG3E - thumbstud

http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Skyline-Knife-Textured-Handle/dp/B001CZBDF8 - flip

Find how the knives also carry in your pocket (left pocket, right pocket, tip up or tip down).

These should be your first steps into getting and owning your first folding knife.

Edit: for the record, I posted this before the lasybugs thing took off

You're not going to make any great progress on a PC build for that price. Besides, PC tech is changing so quickly, you shouldn't buy any one piece of it until you can buy all of it.

If you're looking for X1 games, I'm a huge fan of Destiny, but it's not for everyone. If you're looking for more of a sure hit, check out Shadows of Mordor or Dragon Age: Inquisition.

If you want to change things up a little, here are some of my favorite purchases (I'm a minor Amazon addict):

• The best thermos you've ever seen
  
  
• A super high quality door-hung b-ball hoop (you'll want to buy a nerf ball with it, the one it comes with is dangerous to valuables in the room)
  
  
• One of the best board games ever made
  
  
• A classy and useful EDC knife (there are lots of options on this front, /r/knifeclub has great recommendations)
  
  Check out my sub /r/everymanshouldhave for more recommendations like this. It's not super active of late, but it has some great suggestions if you look at the history

I bought this thing on a lark. It's a bendable plastic strip with little teeth to catch on debris. You use it like a snake. It actually works really well to get hair out of there before there's a clog. It's absolutely disgusting, but it does pull lots of hair and other stuff out of the drain.

Edit: product says it's disposable, but I've used the same one for a year and a half; you just have to be willing to clean it after you're done using it.

Expected but icky answer: Kershaw Skyline (two words: butter knife)

Good answer: any of a million or so inexpensive CRKT flippers with IKBS, like the odd-looking but fantastic Ikoma Carajas.

Best answer that I know of currently: save $14.89 more and buy a Kizer 3404, then thank me later.

Bonus option I've-never-tried-but-will-at-some-point: a Russian Kizlyar Supreme Biker Z

I've owned the Kershaw G10 Hawk ($15) and the Kershaw Skyline ($34).

Both are nice knives, I consider the G10 an excellent light use knife because it is is light and small. The thumb stud is hard to get purchase on, I took a file and cut a groove in the handle so I could get at it easier, very easy to do.

The Skyline is similar, larger blade, they'll sharpen it for you if you mail it in (I think for free, besides postage), no steel liners in the handle, very easy to open (flipper).

Well I was referring to one of these. Besides if you could plug OP's "finder" into the socket for a stove/drier you have other issues. Those should be using a 3 or 4-prong 240V outlet (in the USA anyhow).

https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4

that one is great. I've desoldered complete boards with it.

Honestly people still just don't know what a modern bidet is, they still think its a separate unit entirely like the little sink

I try to explain to people that its $40 on amazon, installs in minutes with no tools, and lives right under your toilet seat. It makes you shower fresh after every poop and you end up saving money over time with the reduced TP/Wet Wipe consumption. It's completely hands free.

I evangelize about bidets like a 1920s automobile owner talking to his horse & buggy neighbor. Ya'll in the past doing it wrong.

What other mess do you NOT bring water into play to clean up?? Especially shit? You can wipe for days but you're never as clean as a constant adjustable stream of water can get you.

Basic model

Hot Water model

Ontario RAT 1.

Took me a while to find a better quality knife.

I'm really sorry. I worry that something like this will happen whenever I approach a new music venue.

It's probably a bit heavier than your M16, but the Ontario Rat-1 is a really solid, affordable pocket knife for under $30.

It has AUS-8 steel, a broad, deep full-flat-ground blade, bronze phosphor washers in the pivot and a very solid liner-lock.

EDIT: I just remembered that Ontario recently released the Rat-2, which is both smaller and lighter than the Rat-1, and very similar in size to the CRKT M16.

Ontario Rat-2, $27.

Maybe take a peek at this too. For travel security, I have been eyeing this and this.

Ugh. Definitely be careful then. Like seriously, I would suggest ordering those lock things off of Amazon ASAP. It's ballsy to go through someones wallet while they are sleeping right there, so obviously the person has no shame. Make sure you do not keep ANYTHING out that has passwords in it. No diaries. Sleep with your wallet in the bed with you. I would not say a word about it, just install the locks on stuff, and protect your stuff nonchalantly. Also I realize this sounds insane, but if you have credit cards, put a fraud alert on your account. Do not underestimate people. Does your part where your stuff is have a lock on it? you might even talk to the RA about switching rooms just to be safe. I know it'll flame your relationship with your roomies, but you can make new ones and that's some real serious Klepto stuff that will just add way more stress to your life than necessary. If you cannot switch rooms, figure out a way to lock your door. Also, from reading how the locks work in those doors, it looks like you can just open them with the credit card trick, which is REALLY not good. I would for sure figure out a way to lock the door while you are sleeping with one of those bar things that attaches to the door and the floor so that they can't do that and sneak in. It won't help while you are out, but if you lock everything down, they'll move on to your other roommates who presumably have not protected their stuff. Something like this might be good: https://www.amazon.com/Rishon-Enterprises-Inc-I9889-Addalock/dp/B00186URTY?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1and this thing while you are IN the room:

https://www.amazon.com/SABRE-Wedge-Security-Alarm-Adjustable/dp/B07BR5VHP3/ref=pd_bxgy_469_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00M30SQGA&pd_rd_r=bc1508c9-c3b2-11e8-b774-b318503a9aad&pd_rd_w=NxhW1&pd_rd_wg=2qNmh&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=6725dbd6-9917-451d-beba-16af7874e407&pf_rd_r=ZR7SJWYHP3NZ2PWM7CK7&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&refRID=ZR7SJWYHP3NZ2PWM7CK7&th=1

​

If you have a laptop, get something like this for when you aren't taking it with you. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=laptop+lock&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 It's good to have anyways for when you are using it on campus and need to get up and go to the bathroom or get a coffee.

Well, if it says you're not allowed to change locks, just add one /r/maliciouscompliance

https://www.amazon.com/Rishon-Enterprises-Inc-I9889-Addalock/dp/B00186URTY

It's a door lock

https://www.amazon.com/Rishon-Enterprises-Inc-I9889-Addalock/dp/B00186URTY

I’m an international student as well and living by myself with no friends/family gave me major anxiety about feeling safe in my first year at UCF. I have this door stopper . It’s cheap and portable. It’s given me back my peace of mind and I’m not worried as much anymore.

I’m sorry this happened to you, and I hope something like this can help you as a precaution and give you some amount of security.

Spyderco, Kershaw, benchmade are all quality knives with kershaw being on the lower end. For an every day carry, I love my kershaw skyline, http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Skyline-Knife-Textured-Handle/dp/B001CZBDF8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408630557&sr=8-1&keywords=kershaw+skyline

It's relatively cheap, good blade style, light, solid steel.

yeah, buy one of these instead.

Clearing things up a bit here, what folks are trying to do is:

A) Not be rude and say that's a garbage knife. The Golden Rule of Knives as far as I'm concerned is that the best knife you have is the one you have on you when you need it. If you have nothing else - high five - that'll do.

B) If you like the skull pattern and whatnot, that's awesome - whatever floats your boat. Most knives you'll see posted here aren't as gaudy or 'mall ninja' (see /r/mallninjashit for an idea of what that means). Knives like that though generally tend to be cheap in both the materials used and the QC for the finished product.

C) There are much better knives you could purchase for $35. Where did you even find that for $35? I wasn't able to find it on Amazon for that price and, relative to what I was seeing listed there, that knife should be ~<$20.

The Spyderco Tenacious is $35 from Amazon right now and is a great starting knife. Some options from Kershaw include the Leek, Skyline or a variety of other models. Someone also mentioned the Ontario Rat 1 which I don't have experience with myself, but is a widely loved knife at the price point. You can also check the $0-100 suggested knife guide for more options.

TL;DR: I don't want to make you feel bad for having that knife, but the $35 could have gotten you better steel, ergonomics and end product quality spent elsewhere.

Dat G19. Big enough to be a real gun, small enough to pack everywhere.

You need a better knife, though. What's "expensive" to you? $27? $35? Another one for $35

Ontario RAT 1
http://www.amazon.com/Ontario-8848-Folding-Knife-Black/dp/B0013ASG3E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374018377&sr=8-1&keywords=ontario+rat+1

For those that travel for a living... this is what I use. Apparently the door jammer has been known to slide on certain surfaces. The Addalock doesn’t! I love it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00186URTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_2ld1TNV8yRnbX

>We will also be staying at Air BnBs, which is another concern of mine. Not only would they not have security or anything like a hotel, someone else definitely has keys. I think a door brace would be too bring to take with me, is there anything else I should look into? A door wedge, alarm, etc?

You might be looking for something like this.

Many of them hook into the cold/hot water pipe from your sink. So if the toilet is next to the sink in the bathroom, you install a T and that's where it gets the water.

Some are cold water only, some take both and mix it. Most come with a "clean" function, for cleaning the nozzle. If you do that first while you're sitting there, it'll bring that warm water into the bidet so you don't get blasted with ice cold water.

https://www.amazon.com/Luxe-Bidet-Neo-320-Non-Electric/dp/B00A0RX2UI/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1551198995&sr=8-8&keywords=bidet

You could just get one that has both hot and cold water. The only difference is that the hot water is tee'd off the sink's hot water line. The hot and cold models usually comes with all the hardware you need (extra long tube to reach the faucet and a tee for typical faucet connections).

I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/Luxe-Bidet-Neo-320-Non-Electric/dp/B00A0RX2UI

There are fairly inexpensive models that have a hot water supply line as well. It isn't difficult to install. How much TP can you get for $68?

I don't have lady bits, so, I can't really give honest input on that.

Parts Needed Purchase Link

T-Molding https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074X9JNSX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Arcade buttons, Joystick, and usb adapter to connect buttons to raspberry PI https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arcade-LED-Control-kit-Compatible-with-Raspberry-PI-3-Plug-and-Play-Image-Incl/331814081782?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Speakers (any desktop speakers will work) https://www.amazon.com/Cyber-Acoustics-multimedia-computer-speakers/dp/B00008MN45/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=speakers+desktop&qid=1562183686&s=electronics&sr=1-9

Arcade cabinet (with no decals) https://www.ebay.com/itm/Extra-Wide-Bartop-Arcade-Cabinet-Kit-Black-Easy-Assembly-for-22-Monitor/392268680930?hash=item5b55090ee2:g:F24AAOSwS2lcOjaJ

Decals for cabinet (you specify what artwork to use, or use their existing artwork) https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arcade-Cabinet-Sticker-Kits-Custom-Made-Bartop-Decals-Vinyl-Graphics-Full-Set/173334849324?epid=23015913882&hash=item285b8fe72c:g:9F4AAOSwMOVcNheB

22 inch monitor (any 22 inch 1080P monitor will work) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019EFMK1I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Light Strip for Marquee https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

128GB flash Drive https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BGTG2A0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

256GB SD Card (if you buy an SD card this large, then you don't need the 128GB Flash drive) https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-MicroSDXC-Adapter-MB-ME256GA-AM/dp/B072HRDM55/ref=sxin_3_osp5-d036f8df_cov?ascsubtag=d036f8df-8c95-431e-8004-07311ffa309b&creativeASIN=B072HRDM55&cv_ct_id=amzn1.osp.d036f8df-8c95-431e-8004-07311ffa309b&cv_ct_pg=search&cv_ct_wn=osp-search&keywords=sd+card&linkCode=oas&pd_rd_i=B072HRDM55&pd_rd_r=07e8feba-c265-4983-af93-5e16e7fd7b3b&pd_rd_w=FRnfg&pd_rd_wg=Ycuqv&pf_rd_p=43ba9e17-96f5-4491-b054-e546013f7dc4&pf_rd_r=9M7304BJA5B896489032&qid=1562184521&s=gateway&tag=androidcentralosp-20

Raspberry Pi https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-MS-004-00000024-Model-Board/dp/B01LPLPBS8

Raspberry Pi Case https://www.amazon.com/iUniker-Raspberry-Cooling-Heatsink-Removable/dp/B079M96KWZ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=PI+case&qid=1562183618&s=electronics&sr=1-3

Surge Protector https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LZ5XMU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Arcade Game off/on switch https://www.ebay.com/itm/2BC3-250V-Arcade-Game-Machine-ON-OFF-Switch-Power-Socket-Module-with-Fuse-Parts/312633073711?hash=item48ca62202f:g:eh0AAOSwuHJc7ngf

Power plug for arcade game off/on switch https://www.amazon.com/TNP-Universal-Power-Cord-Feet/dp/B01EYDGO12/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=desktop+power+plug&qid=1562183995&s=electronics&sr=1-3

Ultimately, use the space you have; mitigate the clutter that exist on the real estate you have at your disposal. Made a small list of affordable items you can buy (one at a time, if need be):

small shelving unit

extended mouse pad

LED strips (best behind the desk)

velcro cable ties

Recommend a monitor and laptop stand to keep your eye level in-line with your displays.

Good luck!

EDIT: Formatting is hard

The top selling stud finder on Amazon is just a magnet in a plastic holder.

http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=zg_bs_553280_1

https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI

the best stud finder ever

• this is NOT a risky click 😉

I have about 5 of these

the EVSE is detecting that the outlet is not wired as it expects. Do you have an outlet tester? Maybe something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU

And just for reference, this is one such device: https://smile.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/

> Even if you have polarized plugs, like in the US, you can't even be sure that the electricians wired the outlet the right way around.

Don't trust, test.

Grab one of these and check outlets around your house.

I'm a big fan of the Leatherman Skeletool.

You can get it relatively cheaply if you look around online a bit.

It's not full of stuff you will never use. It's got a nice sized blade, reliable pliers, and a solid carabiner clip (that's also a bottle opener) to keep it from going anywhere.

Phone: iPhone 5c + cheap Spigen case

Watch: Seiko SKX007 + Super Oyster II Bracelet

Wallet: Radix One

Keychain: Remove Before Flight tag, Sandisk Ultra Fit, Dollar Store Carabiner

Keychain Multitool: Victorinox Classic OR Leatherman Micra

Multitool: Leatherman Skeletool

Flashlight: Streamlight Microstream

Pen: Fisher Space Pen OR Modded Zebra 701

Yoyo: The Sage (for now)

First post, any questions or suggestions please feel free. Thanks guys!

• Light: Thrunite TN12 neutral white - $49.95
  
• Knife: Kershaw Skyline - $39.78
  
• Wallet: Alpine Swiss Passcase Bifold - $9.99
  
  Total: $99.76

Since this is apparently affecting more than one device you should first check the outlet. Get one of these and test that the outlet is properly wired. It sounds like there may be voltage present on your ground (that would be bad). Or if you aren't comforatble testing yourself hire an electrician. This is potentially dangerous.

You can buy a little device very cheaply to tell you if three-prong outlets are grounded. If they're probably not even grounded the lazy way (to the outlet box) and simply have a wire missing, you could repair this yourself for <$10.

Obviously two-prong outlets will not be grounded. That's a convenience issue, but not a safety issue. The lack of GFI outlets in the kitchen (or bath, or anywhere near water) could be a safety issue, and that would be the one thing I think it'd be reasonable to ask the landlord to do. GFI outlets are ~$10 apiece and those can safely be grounded to their box as well.

I think you might need an electrician. To me, it sounds like something is shorting the coax with the electrical outlet. You indicated when he tugged on the coax, a breaker tripped.
Right there, that set off flags as I was reading it. The problem may not be in the outlet right next to where he was working, but somewhere up the line from there.

I would start with a voltage tester like this
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-3-Wire-Receptacle-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=lp_14244481_1_12?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1487627980&sr=1-12
and go from there.

If the problem is electrical, comcast wont touch it (even if they caused it, but good luck proving that).

this pump is great

I had the cheap one, and this one blows it out of the water

GE switches are what I recommend.
They have switches, On/Off.
They have dimmers, On/Off and dim brighten (hold up to brighten or hold down to dim not too hard)
They have fan controller. Four speeds, low, medium, high and off. (sorry, no reverse)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0035YRCR2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486773955&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ge+zwave+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=41bCFFIGx8L&ref=plSrch

You might want to reconsider the double triple tap option. It nice to be able to control something unrelated using a "secret switch". Triple tap to restart a computer by chance. Triple tap to turn off all the light in your place.

I only have one of the homeseer switches and don't regret the purchase. My switch control the lights in our loft (on/off/dim/brighten), double tap controls lights that are connected to a plugin module. Triple tap is used to play a test sound that I use to test the volume of house alerts.

It's great that you are thinking of other folks who will be using the system. Not everyone wants to pull out a phone to turn on a light.

Edit.
I prefer dimmers to on/off switches. The light ramps up gracefully. Now, I find the on/off to be very jarring.

Motion sensors, I've found the monoprice units to be just fine. They've been reliable and include a temperature sensor. I've had a few of these for years and have yet to replace a battery. The best price I've found on theses.
https://www.monoprice.com/mobile/product/details/15271?maincategoryid=122&categoryid=12212&subcategoryid=1091804&cpncd=

I've got roughly 3lb's of chessex dice; I use this to store them all at this point. But thank you for the offer. :)

Has he applied for any jobs yet? I was given one of those leather pads with paper inside and a holder for resumes (something like this) except it was from my undergrad university with their emblem. Definitely gives you some confidence for interviews and recruiting sessions. Also you can get him some nice resume paper to go with it. That lasted me for years.

I also enjoyed having one or two of these demotivational posters in my room. Depends on his humor and if he has barren walls like I did.

If you know more details about which raspberry pi he has, you could get some shield extensions. These are boards that expand its capabilities. There are also newer boards with better specs. Also with two boards you can of course make them talk to each other ;)

Depends on his area of interest and your budget, but you could get him some kind of [introductory FPGA kit] (http://store.digilentinc.com/fpga-programmable-logic/) or DE0-Nano.

Tools... so many tools he might be interested in. USB logic analyzers are so cheap these days and go well with hobby boards. Again not sure your budget, so you can go all sorts of ranges here (Open Workbench Logic Sniffer or scanaplus or Saleae Logic 8 or a china clone of Saleae Logic 8). Saleae or the knockoff I think are the better options for the software compatibility. He may be in need of a soldering iron or a multimeter.

Something else unique, you could get him a "gift card" (they don't really sell them) or an IOU to a PCB printing service. Ask him to design his own board and you'll pay $X of the service. You'll want to make sure he knows the price structure on the website because they charge per square inch and it depends on his design how many layers he may need. He makes the schematic and they will print some circuit boards for him. They won't mount the parts, just do the schematic and he would have to hand solder the components.

If he likes old videogames you could get him some old school USB controllers and tell him to install lakka on his rasberry pi, or just get him a new Raspberry Pi3 to dedicate it as an old-school console emulator. It is quite impressive how many consoles they have emulated.

And back to more tools... more micro screwdriver bits than you would actually need. You can get him a starter pack of resistors, capacitors, and other assorted electronics sparkfun. There are also so many buttons, switches, LED screen displays, etc. that he probably wouldn't want to buy on his own. Maybe you could get a container with an assortment of circuit components (resistors, capacitors, transistors, and other sensors). Careful! This can add up real quick. All types of sensors exist... ultrasonic rangefinder, stress, photocell, temperature, etc. etc. endless!.

Takes a fool to buy it from the manufacturer's website.

http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1660-Onion-Folding-SpeedSafe/dp/B0009VC9Y0/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1413863612&sr=1-1&keywords=kershaw+leek

I got it for ~30 a few years ago

Oh for sure! What's your price range?

For under 40$ some great options would be the Kershaw Leek , the Kershaw Cryo (the Cryo II is a bit larger for almost the same price if you prefer) or anything Kershaw really. You could also look for Sanrenmu knives, they're good for the price.

If you're really serious and you're looking for better quality, I recommend the Spyderco Delica (smaller), the Spyderco Endura (larger) or the Benchmade Griptilian (mini or full size, your choice). I own a mini Griptilian and I love it, I really recommend it if you can justify the price.

I have two recommendations that have never failed me within that price range and bring a lot to the table for the price:

The Delica4 by Spyderco which is large and stays sharp. It can cut and cut and just won't stop. I use this for my outdoor activities where a pocket knife can be used with some abuse. Also has a great grip on it which comes in a multitude of colors. Only knife better by them in my opinion is the paramilitary 2 for about $100 more.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003CHANLO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1407121452&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40

The Ken Onion designed Leek by Kershaw is my gentleman's knife. Very sharp straight out of the box and won't fail you. Much smaller than the Delica4 by equally as trustworthy. Super fast deploy speed and fits in the pocket nicely with or without the clip. Kershaw is known for cheaply priced big bang for your buck knives that just keep on going...and if you lose it, your wallet doesn't feel it. First folder I bought a few years ago and it is still my go-to most days.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009VC9Y0/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1407121786&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40

I feel your pain. If I were in your shoes I’d sure as hell want to bring my bike into my apartment too.

I’ve got two bikes I switch between regularly, and recently got this from Amazon. It’s right against the wall just inside my apartment, so I can hang them up and take them down easily just as I’m coming and going.

Don’t worry about hanging your bike by the rim of a wheel. Unless your frame is made out of ultra dense material from a collapsed star and weighs a ton you’ll be fine. I wouldn’t discount a pulley system with the ceiling, even if it’s tall either. Installation would certainly be a pain, but worth it once you got it done. I’ve seen some innovative setups on YouTube, you can look there for some inspiration and brainstorming. It’s also possible you could make something just to fit your needs in a DIY project. Before I bought my rack I was contemplating following some instructions online to make one myself out of $50 or so of PVC pipe or wood from a hardware store. Good luck with whatever you choose.

These gravity racks are on sale and don't screw into the wall.

A friend of mine gave me this bike stand, which leans against the wall at the top with a non-marking plastic piece and has non marking plastic feet. It has never fallen over or marked anything. The only problem is the handlebars will hit the wall, so I had to put fabric behind it.

It doubles as a repair stand for the top bike. But it doesn't have your storage, which I like a lot.

This one

It just leans against the wall -- no drilling necessary.

These Zip-It drain cleaners work wonders, and the crap it pulls out is absolutely vile. No need to use nasty caustic chemicals.

Strap in, this got kind of long! I hope it's useful to someone.

I too have the "need a lot of bins and boxes and whatnot" situation because of my and my partner's hobbies. I sew and crochet and embroider and work with leather, and he works with electronics and 3d printers and so on. We share a small (10' x 10') room for our workspace and all of our most commonly accessed supplies.

Being someone who gets fixated on ideas frequently, I suggest that you open up your search to other options other than interlocking boxes. The reason I say this is that I am surrounded by bins and have been working with various sized bins to access things for a long time and I am tired of them. The problem is similar to what many other posters have mentioned: Getting items out of the boxes (even if they are small) is an Ordeal, especially if you have multiple boxes out, or if the box is very full and hard to put back together.


In general, a rule of thumb is to think about how you'll put your item away rather than how you'll access it. When we want access to something, it doesn't seem like a big deal to undo bins, bags, boxes, slide heavy things around, etc. because we get a reward at the end (yay, it's the thing! shiny!). After that, the idea of undoing all that stuff seems like a pain in the arse, and we just don't want to do it? (and what if we might need another thing from that bin? So, consider how you'll put it away, rather than how you'll get it out when designing a storage solution.


So, I am now moving away from the lidded box approach and encouraging my partner to do the same. Having watched Adam Savage's video describing first order retrievability, I am moving in that direction (although not yet to his ninjery level). Here's the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWQAYfGxsPE.


I suggest the following types of storage for smaller objects. Bins still work OK for larger objects but someday I'd like to move away from that too.

• Akro-Mills Parts organization drawers. They come in many different sizes and types. They are durable, versatile, come with their own drawer dividers, they are wall mountable or usable on a desktop surface. We use these for all of the objects we reach for frequently for different applications (memory cards, bulldog clips, popsicle sticks, magnets, command hooks). https://www.amazon.com/Akro-Mils-10144-20-Inch-16-Inch-Hardware/dp/B003P2UOCO
  
  
• Stanley Organizer boxes. These boxes are extremely useful when you have a lot of tiny objects of different sizes to sort (like nuts, bolts and hardware or amigurumi eyes). There are bins in each storage thing that are fully re-arrangeable and removable - you can get several of these and customize each one to your needs and then pull out just the little bins you're interested in to work on. These have their place, but are best used as 'project' or 'many of one type' oriented storage https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-25-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B00005QWYF
  
  
• This video on using plastic bins as drawers. I did this for my two 4' workbenches and I love it. This allows me to quickly swap out project specific bins if I need to, and I now have the ease of access of drawers with the containerized pleasure of bins. I use these drawers every day for things like webbing and elastic storage, crochet hook storage, sewing machine accessories, sewing patterns, etc. I have currently taken to reserving one bin per workbench as a trash can and omg is that useful to have an in-table trash can - I'm thinking of drilling a hole in my benchtop so I can just swipe bits and pieces directly into the trash. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kjyg6RWDlZw
  
  
• Pegboard / slat wall. I personally like the metal Wall Control brand because I have a love affair with magnets. I use this for thread storage (I can thread my machine directly from the wall, without moving spools around!), bobbin storage, clips, pins, tape that gets used daily (painters, duct, electrical, etc), instant access tools are mounted on magnetic bars attached to the board. I also stuck magnets on the back of a bunch of stuff (empty soup cans, plastic bins from the stanley boxes, thread locker, sewing machine oil, etc) and now I can just kind of throw those items at the board and they stick. Extremely efficient and functional. The various hooks and things are also highly useful. Comes in many different sizes and shapes (and colors!) with accessory kits optimized for different situations. https://www.amazon.com/Wall-Control-30-WGL-200GVB-Galvanized-Organizer/dp/B002LZSWFW
  
  
• A tool chest (even if you don't have "normal tools"). We use this for hand tools - it is really nice to have screw drivers, wrenches, utility knives and tape measures at our finger tips. Ours holds a ton of stuff, fits on our metro wire shelving perfectly, and has held up like a champ in the 3 years we have it. Also it's metal, so I can stick things to it with magnets. We have this one: https://www.amazon.com/Excel-TB2105X-Blue-26-Inch-Steel-Chest/dp/B002BETIQA

Look at the Kershaw Leek, its got a good 3 inch blade, it practically disappears in your pocket, is basically a modern gentlemen's folder, and can get it in several different colors. Its one of the most popular knives out there and is well made. Only thing to watch out for is the tip, its very thin and can break off if you try and use it as a pry bar. You can find the leek for about 40-60 bucks depending on the model.

Link - Kershaw Leek

If you're looking for something heavier duty, the Kershaw Blur or Freefall would be good buys. I use a freefall as one of my EDC knives and think its a great buy for the money. The blur is very well regarded as well, though I don't have experience with one myself.

Link for Blur

Link for Freefall

If you don't absolutely need the spring assist, another idea would be a Spyderco Delica 4, or perhaps a Spyderco Persistence if you want a little cheaper price. Both are solid knives for the money and aren't too bulky in the pocket. You can get the Delica in colors too!

Link for Delica 4

Link for Persistence

>Perhaps because most people just clip them to their belts

I respectfully disagree, I would say most people pocket carry.

For a very think knife the Kershaw Leek is very thin.

I carry this Kershaw Needs Work as my etc, and this smaller CRKT when I'm at work in nice clothes.

We've been happy with this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ACAM38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_USLpyb9PP30V0. Only complaint is it rubs paint off the wall if you aren't careful. Super easy to use and always moveable if you have a different spot in mind

I suggest getting some kind of bike rack for the apartment in the future. My wife and I live in a small 1 bedroom apartment and manage to store 2 full size bikes on one. I hope you find it. Anything left outside will be stolen/vandalized given enough time.

I have this: https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Michelangelo-Two-Bike-Gravity-Stand/dp/B000ACAM38/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1519911674&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=vertical+bike+rack+apartment+wall&psc=1

Works great.

Maybe something like Delta Cycle Michelangelo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ACAM38/

Before paying someone to come out, try using a zip it. It's cheap and could get all of the junk out very easily.

Have you ever seen one of these? They work really great at pulling hair up out of the tub drain, even if there isn't a clog. Being proactive and all that shit.

Looks like it works on the same principle as the Zip-It Drain cleaner

http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Products-00412BL-Zip-It-Cleaning/dp/B000BO9204

Stop right there.

Buy this.

You can also find it in home depot. There is no need to take off the drain. I am guessing someone in your house has long hair. You will need to do this often.

You can thank me later.

https://www.amazon.com/Luxe-Bidet-Neo-320-Non-Electric/dp/B00A0RX2UI/ref=sr_1_6?s=kitchen-bath&ie=UTF8&qid=1504204281&sr=1-6&keywords=bidet

It's heated!

• 433mhz Transmitter with Etekcity Outlets
  
  -I followed BRUH Automation's tutorial to set this up. I immediately reprogrammed the outlets to custom codes. Home Assistant now has sole control over the outlets and I can re purpose the remote to be used for other commands
  
  
• 433mhz Receiver with Etekcity Outlet Remotes
  
  -I currently use the remotes to control automations within HomeAssistant. When I push a button on the remote, it is received by the 433mhz rx that is connected to a NodeMCU. The NodeMCU takes the signal received and published the rf code to an MQTT topic. Home assistant is subscribed to that topic. I look for the payload of each published topic and if it matches the button I pressed it will run an automation.
  
  
• 433mhz Motion Sensor
  
  -These broadcast a rf signal that is also received in the same fashion as the Etekcity Remotes do. Then published via MQTT from the NodeMCU.
  
  
• Hue Bridge
  
  -I am currently using 2 white bulbs, 1 bloom, and 1 colored bulb. They are spread out across multiple rooms. I absolutely love the control you have with this product!
  
  
• IR LED
  
  -The NodeMCU is subscribed to a topic that Home Assistant will published to when I tell it to trigger. This is currently in use to turn on the TV, Soundbar, and tower fan via Alexa. "Alexa, Turn on the tv" - runs a script in HA to publish to a MQTT topic. NodeMCU grabs the payload, my code determines the device, and blasts the signal - turning the TV on/off
  
  
• IR Receiver
  
  -The TV remote has many useless buttons on it. I use these to also send commands to Home Assistant. For instance, I push button '1' on the remote. The NodeMCU processes the value received, publishes it via MQTT, Home Assistant looks at that payload and runs the corresponding automation - turning on the lamp in the living room.
  
  
• Amazon Echo Dot
  
  -I currently use this with the emulated hue component. It works great for what I currently want it to do!
  

This with this and this will do what you are doing without the soldering iron.

I've got a fake wemo device defined, that triggers the broadlink to send RF or IR commands to any compatible device.
This, these, and these work really well for us.

I have my entire vive setup (both base stations and link box) connected to a remote outlet I bought on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504725565&sr=8-3&keywords=remote+outlet

I turn them on with a press of a button only when I use my vive. It works great! If you can, I recommend doing this so the stations and headset aren't always getting power.

Depending on where you land on the spectrum of make something from scratch -> just buy something, this might be applicable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DQELHBS/
There are a number of different brands and designs available too

All you have to do is plug in your appliance into one of these and set up one of the buttons on the remote to control it. You can control up to 5 things with one remote and it uses RF not infrared so you don't have to point it in any particular direction.

I use them quite a bit. You can go beyond the 5 device remote control if you're willing to get your hands dirty a bit. The protocol used in the communication is very straightforward and you can make your own RF remote that can send a more diverse set of signals that will let you control even more devices. I've taken if even further by having my custom remote connect to the home WiFi and now I can trigger the outlets from my phone, it's pretty handy!

ac adaptor

right angle connectors

LED strips

I'd go with a magnetic reed switch and some LED strips:

• https://www.amazon.com/Directed-Electronics-8601-Magnetic-Switch/dp/B0009SUF08/ref=sr_1_2
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  I did something similar with my liquor cabinet but with a leftover LED strip from an aquarium.
  
  Out of curiosity: where in Texas are you? I'm in Austin.

https://www.amazon.ca/Flexible-Non-waterproof-Christmas-Decoration-Daylight/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=sr_1_10?crid=1C5X40CVTC40A&keywords=white+led+light+strip&qid=1565378457&s=gateway&sprefix=white+led+li%2Caps%2C180&sr=8-10

its basically this but there are a lot of options on Amazon. just look up white led strip

LED strip lights are a great and cheap way to light up a mirror! This is a picture of my current vanity setup: http://imgur.com/HODyWkh

The whole setup should run you under $25 on amazon:

http://smile.amazon.com/Flexible-Lights-Daylight-Non-waterproof-Lighting/dp/B00HSF65MC?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

http://smile.amazon.com/HitLights-Light-Connector-Extension-Single/dp/B00L1MFRY0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00 (click the '10-pk gapless connectors' on that link)

http://smile.amazon.com/Power-Adapter-Transformers-Supply-Strip/dp/B00DKSI0S8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00

Nice collection! Just a little suggestion. Maybe consider adding light strips like these to the bottom of the top shelf so you could see all the Pops on the bottom shelf

Here is my CR-10S.

I added the Petsfang fan fang. Added this fan to the fang.

I added these Z-Axis braces. Added these LEDs to the Z-Braces.

I'm printing on a mirror tile with a sheet of PEI bonded to it.

Last week I added the TH3D EZABL and have been encouraged by the results. It creates a Z-offset map of the build plate before every print. I can see the Z-steppers move during X-Y moves so I can tell it's working. Manual bed-leveling was working OK for smaller prints, but I could never get all 4 corners to agree with the center height. I suspect my aluminum bed plate is shaped like a Pringles chip.
I really like the Marlin Firmware over the OEM version. I don't mind not having auto-resume since I plugged my printer into a UPS system.

Right now my printer is about 20 hours into a 60-hour print of a T-Rex skull. I've been really happy with this printer! It was my first and I've been having a ball with it.

I've not tried this myself but I think you can use this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/

I am in the process of installing the LED strips and controllers below. Tested end to end setup last night and they work as expected. RGB+WW. No surprises. Also included the matching channels with diffusers.

Hope this helps!

LEDENET RGBWW LED Strip 4 Colors... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VIKAWWC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Wireless electronic ballast... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

LED Aluminum Channel Wide 10-Pack... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FDV1RH9?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

You can find ZigBee controllers that you can sync with the Philips Hue bridge like this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NMSQ4QQ

Been using this with 10m of led strip, it shows up in the hue app so you can make scenes with other lights and can control it from Google or Alexa.

wallet in front pocket leatherman in back pocket

funny enough the leatherman is usually worth more than the cash I'm carrying

The Ontario RAT1 might be a good choice for your first blade. It's an incredibly good knife for the price. Check out the reviews. I highly recommend it, it's a great value:
http://www.amazon.com/Ontario-8848-Folding-Knife-Black/dp/B0013ASG3E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418727072&sr=8-1&keywords=rat1
If you want something with a cord/strap cutter feature, you might like the SOG Trident:
http://www.amazon.com/SOG-Specialty-Knives-TF22-CP-3-15-Inch/dp/B004WN59KW/ref=sr_1_44?s=hunting-fishing&ie=UTF8&qid=1418726833&sr=1-44&keywords=SOG+Knives
Kershaw is another brand you might like, there are many great models in your price range. There are other good choices out there as well. Check out the sidebar for the Knife Recommendation Guide

There’s also this, OP.

I say this with a bit of pettiness and a lot of “be prepared for her craziness”:

[Portable door lock](Addalock - (1 Piece ) The Original Portable Door Lock, Travel Lock, AirBNB Lock, School Lockdown Lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00186URTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2QZ2DbZXWEKEM)

Kershaw skyline
http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Skyline-Knife-Textured-Handle/dp/B001CZBDF8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411072014&sr=8-1&keywords=kershaw+skyline

Kershaw chill
http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-3410-Chill-Pocket-Knife/dp/B002IVHQ5Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1411072014&sr=8-2&keywords=kershaw+skyline

Both are great edc knives. Chill is small but tough (not tiny though) perfect if you work in an office.
Skyline is a great overall. My work edc.

Buy 2 of either one, if you manage to break one you have a backup while the factory fixes the other.

there's some good stuff in there.


I'd like to add a couple that aren't so well known.

You can actually heat up the plastic water bottles it mentions right on your campfire coals... it's not going to melt, surprisingly.

video


also for clothing, I like they mentioned wool -- really great even if it gets wet... but they didn't mention layers. This is important. You don't want to sweat when it's cold out, so if you're active you gotta shed some layers.


also use your spare grocery bags from home to wrap everything up in, especially clothes... just in case things get wet.


oh and silicone spray is great for water repellent, be it your jacket, boots or tent. Don't buy the "special water repellent stuff", it's just silicone spray. You'll save a couple bucks.


As far as hatchets/knives... you don't need anything big. You might think you do but you really don't. I would recommend a good brand like Benchmade or Kershaw. A regular pocket knife like that is gonna do all you need -- just don't use it as a prybar please.



oh and hobo stoves are pretty cool.

so is a rocket stove -- though the one here is kinda elaborate -- you can dig a hole in the ground and accomplish the same thing you just need the basic shape, airflow. really low fuel and insane concentrated heat from them.


oh and a hoopy frood always knows where his towel's at.

http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Skyline-Knife-Textured-Handle/dp/B001CZBDF8/

A little more than your gift card, but it's worth it. Well worth it.

My EDC

• Kershaw- Skyline in black

• Keys

• Victorinox SAK- Tinker

• Streamlight 73001 Nano Light

• The Ridge- Front Pocket Wallet

• iPhone 5 and OtterBox Defender Case

Been pretty happy with Kershaw knives as my everyday carry; using the Kershaw Skyline at the moment and it's lasted a few years with minimal maintenance.

Stopped carrying multi-tools in the brewery a long time ago. They weigh a ton, cost a lot, and are usually a poor substitute for the tool I really need. If I really need a pair of pliers/screwdriver/wire stripper, I just walk my happy ass over to the tool chest and get the right tool for the job.

It's possible, but if that's the case then your house is wired seriously, seriously wrong. I doubt that you'd notice it with a phone charger.

When I moved into a house a couple decades ago it was wired very very poorly. Ground was hooked up on hot wires, polarity was reversed, ground was left dangling, you name it. The previous owner fancied himself a handyman and he really, really wasn't.

If you have reason to suspect that you have wiring problems then it's easy to check. Most big hardware stores sell a device like this which will automatically detect if your outlets are wired correctly when plugged in. They're only a few bucks which is likely cheaper than whatever device a faulty outlet might destroy.

If your phone seems to be taking odd amounts of time to charge first make sure that you're using the same charger in each (some chargers put out more power than others) and if you are then try a more scientific test (same software load, same amount of screen on-time, same start and end battery percentage). It's quite likely that it's just in your head, but the only way to be sure is to do some science!

It's overkill until the lack of having one bricks your PC power supply (or worse). I've had APC units for over thirteen years now. I use their surge bars for equipment that won't be bothered by a sudden drop, and a couple UPS units for everything else, including a front projector. You want to talk about dire consequences with a blackout, the projector bulb can pop without the cool-down phase. That's ~$350 a bulb.

Electronics aren't just sensitive to surge, line noise and under-voltage can also damage them. PC power supplies can regulate voltage to an extent, but I'd rather have something else step in when electricity gets funky. I remember one voltage drop caused half of my power adapters in the house to die. That was a good day for the scalpers at radio-shack.

APC has given me nothing but good experiences. One of the UPS units was toasted by a powerful surge--I used to live in tornado alley, we had storms that exceeded 600 lightning strikes an hour. It took them about a week (total turnaround) to replace it under warranty. They even offered to replace my really old UPS unit with a brand new one for cheap. Now I have a fast-reacting 900 joules capacity single-plug surge protector on the main UPS as a backup to the backup. Hey, it was ten bucks, why not?

Another thing I do is test the outlets with one of these every time I move to a new location. I've encountered enough bad wiring to pick up a healthy paranoia. :)

Qbox, cable checker, XLR barrels [F-F,M-M,Phase reverse, -20&-50db pads, ground lift, ISO barrel], AC Wiring Tester, XLR Y's, 1/4 male to XLR-F and M, 1/8" to rca/xlr/1/4, NL4&NL8 barrels. Batteries, and more batteries.

Those seem to be my essentials, and get used the most. Probably forgetting something.

I actually had put this up on mechmarket last week before I decided I wanted to keep the case but change out the switches. I originally had BOX Burnt Oranges in here, which I found to be too heavy, so I desoldered them and put in 67g Zealios—MUCH better. The process was actually pretty painless due to this solder sucker—HIGHLY recommended. The PCB is a DZ60, and the case is from Shenzhen YMD (I believe he is sold out at the moment). The stabs are genuine cherry, of course, and have been clipped and lubed. Keycaps are GMK Muted. The low profile case works great with cherry profile keycaps.

"Build log" (mostly pictures) is in the imgur album.

This started off as a stock WASD V2 with Cherry MX Clear switches. I bought a 55g uniform RealForce not long after, and that has been my daily driver pretty much ever since. I actually thought I might just sell the WASD for whatever I could get for it.

I decided instead to go for the ergo clear mod, which sounds absolutely fantastic on the videos I've seen here, here, and others on YouTube. I also decided that while I had the case all apart I would add dampening foam to it and paint it to go with the SA carbon I just received.

Paint and clear coat for the case were from the local hardware store. I found the dampening foam on Amazon. I also picked up a Hakko tip cleaner and Engineer solder sucker from Amazon. The 62g gold springs and lubes are from Mehkee. They were out of their kits, but the lubes that are in the kit are all sold separately on their site, so no problemo.

The whole thing took about a week, give or take, and it was very tedious, to say the least. But the outcome has been simply spectacular. The ergo clears are so buttery smooth, and they sound awesome with SA doubleshot caps. I think the case color came out great. The WASD is now feeling a whole lot more premium!

Edit: this video was super helpful for the case painting.

Edit: here is the “before” post - https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/76s7rx/is_it_worth_it_to_do_the_ergo_clear_mod_on_a_wasd/?st=JFBLDQYL&sh=a9f5b0f2

Yes, this is the right place! Here's a few things to help you.

• You want this sucker. The cheaper ones are a pain in the ass. There is one replacement tube that it comes with, and here's a link for more.
  
  
• Here's a link to a video guide. It takes a little bit of practice, but it's not terribly difficult.
  
  
• Have a fan going or get a solder fume extractor!
  
  
• Amazon has kits you can buy to practice, but it's not THAT difficult.
  
  The only tip I have is use your solder sucker in your strong hand and the iron in your other. I have much better hand control with my right, so I can more accurately place the solder sucker to take it out in one or two tries. Oh, and easy on the caffeine! You don't want shaky hands while doing this.

Build Log 5: Viterbi

Highlights

• Viterbi split ortholinear 70 key keyboard from keeb.io
  
• Kailh Pro Purple Switches from NovelKeys
  
• DSA Honeywell Keycaps from PrimeKB
  
• Socketed Pro Micro controllers
  
• First personalized QMK keymap!
  
  

  Parts List
  

• 1x Viterbi PCB Kit
  
  • 2x Viterbi PCBs (Rev 1.0)
    
  • 2x Push buttons for reset
    
  • 2x 4.7kΩ resistors
    
  • 2x TRRS jacks
    
  • 78 1N4148 diodes
    
• 70x Kailh Pro Purple Switches (Tactile 50g)
  
• 1x Black PCB Viterbi Plate
  
  • 2x PCB swtich plates
    
  • 2x PCB bottom plates
    
  • 16x M2 6mm screws
    
  • 8x M2 11mm standoffs
    
  • 8x adhesive bumper pads
    
• 1x Silver Sheathed TRRS Cable
  
• 1x DSA Honeywell Keycaps
  
• 1x Red Rubber O-Rings
  
• 2x Pro Micro (ATmega32U4)
  
• 4x Mill-Max 12 Position Ultra Low Profile Socket
  
  

  Resources
  

• Nyquist Build Log
  
• An Overly Verbose Guide to Building a Let's Split Keyboard
  
• Socketing a Pro Micro
  
• A Guide to Flashing a Let's Split for Beginners (Windows)
  
• Build Log 1: Nyquist
  
  

  Tools
  

• Hakko FX888D-23BY & Flush Cutters
  
• Hakko T18D16P Tip for general purpose soldering
  
  • The tip that comes with the FX888D is either this tip or one that is extremely similar.
    
• Kester Rosin Core Solder (63/37 .020)
  
• XOOL ESD Tweezers Tools Kit
  
  • ESD-15 for most work, especially inserting the wires during controller socketing
    
  • ESD-34A for desocketing the Pro Micro controllers after they've been socketed (as a pry bar under the controller and then as a wedge between the underside of the controller and the top of sockets)
    
• Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker
  
• NTE Electronics SW02-10 Solder Wick
  
  

  Notes
  

• The Viterbi build process is pretty much the same as the Nyquist, with the addition of 10 keys. The other difference is the placement of the two resistors, which now are only installed on the master side (the side with the USB cable, the left hand side).
  
• When flashing, I wasn't able to find eeprom files specifically for the Viterbi. I instead used the eeprom files from the Nyquist and everything seems to be working so far.
  
• Some of the keys are a bit crooked... I'm not sure if this is the switches themselves, or me somehow soldering the switches crooked.
  

I have z-wave GE wall switches that work fine. You can usually find something in the amazon reviews that will indicate what success (or lack of it) other people have had. Lurking this sub is another good way to see what works for others.

As sauky said, check the smartthings list on the st website

The GE switches and dimmers were fussy getting them "paired" with the hub. But I have probably five different brands of stuff and none of it was immune to pairing troubles. I would just make sure whatever you get has favorable reviews.

GE: [zwave] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2) or [zwave+] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R) and a [slave switch] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-STANDALONE-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ).

Edit: where were you planning on putting the motion sensor? GE/Jasco has combined motion sensing switches that work quite well out. 26931 and 26933 are the product numbers.

I have the bidet in the link and 100% vouch for it. Easy install and your life will never be the same.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00A0RX2UI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6003Bb5WWF6FP

Zip-It Drain Cleaning Tool: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BO9204/

I've had issues with recurring drain clogs at the last two rentals I've lived in. Once or twice a month, I'd run to Wal-Mart and buy a jug or two of the six-dollar Gel/Foamer/Whatever product that Drano recommends for recurring clogs, in an effort to avoid having to take showers while standing in a three-inch pool of filth. And then, after googling around for awhile, I found this product--which is available at Wal-Mart for about three bucks. Used it on every drain in my house, nearly puked in amazement at the toxic mess that it managed to yank out of my pipes, and it's been now been three years since I've had any problem whatsoever.

We use one of these to remove the shower drain wookiees at our house.

I use this magnetic stud finder: Totally Non-Risky Click I Swear

I second.

I have Franklin, but a magnet is still my preferred method. This guy is well worth the $10 if you don't just have rare earth magnets lying around. Cheap $10 electronic stud finders, however, are not worth anything.

Electric stud finders are shit. Buy this wonderful little magnet and wave it over a wall until it sticks. This will effectively just find the studs by finding the nails in the studs and sticking to them, then you know your stud location and you can move up and down on that to find the height you want.

Seriously. It works every single time, I hang mine on a piece of dental floss so I can swing it around on the wall until it sticks on it’s own.

It costs $7 and will prevent your tv from falling off of the wall.

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FJNNDbVDS7NAQ

I recently purchased an Akro-Mils 64-drawer, and it has been absolutely magnificent. Each drawer comfortably stores a 1000 count bag of beads, with some room to spare. There is no back on the unit, which I thought was odd at first, but this has not been an issue in use. All in all, it has ended up being a really solid option for this hobby.

Akro-Mils 10164 64 Drawer Plastic Parts Storage Hardware and Craft Cabinet, 20-Inch by 16-Inch by 6-1/2-Inch, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDH3JC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Edit: Added some details 😊

I've got 3 of these and it has served me well with school projects as well as just general hobby work.

https://www.amazon.com/Akro-Mils-10164-Plastic-Storage-Hardware/dp/B000LDH3JC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1511034951&sr=8-2&keywords=small+parts+storage

If you're more interested in a more portable option I would suggest one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Plano-Molding-5324-Organizer-Compartments/dp/B003MP9FH4/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1511035029&sr=8-13&keywords=portable+small+parts+storage

Or one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Small-Portable-Parts-Storage-Warranty/dp/B016F1OE86/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511035061&sr=8-3&keywords=portable+small+parts+storage&dpID=41xYJViFYwL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I just started on this venture myself, and I am planning on using some of these: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000LDH3JC/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1AMLS2ATACRU2&coliid=I2HEX98NDSJA7E to store the bricks in. They have different versions that include all large bins, and a mix of the two.


Now looking at your picture, if you can imagine for a minute, my plan is to have a worktable something like your bottom half, and then above mounted on the walls I would place those parts containers.


I was also thinking that on the workbench I would secure down some of the larger baseplates as a build/play area.


I have measure my wall, and I could hold 15 of those storage bins, but really i would only get about have or so due to the table.


In my mind this sounds good....but I will have to see how it goes....and post pictures!

This probably isn't the answer you're looking for, but I'll give it to you anyway: sort by need. I'm a WWII diorama and vehicle builder. I have separate large plastic containers for brown plates, green plates, white plates, tan plates, dark tan plates, etc; all earth tones that I'll need a lot of for dioramas. I also have large bins for grass pieces and leaf pieces. I use small drawers for the vehicle parts that get used frequently. The rest of my parts are generally just used as "filler" parts for unseen sections of my dioramas, so they're sorted very roughly. I've included a link to the drawers that I use.

http://www.amazon.com/Akro-Mils-10164-Plastic-Storage-Hardware/dp/B000LDH3JC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1373318950&sr=8-4&keywords=akro+mils+drawers

tl;dr: Depending on your building style, you'll need different organization. Experiment, and try to decide what's best for you. No two builders need the same organization.

The location of the power supply doesn't have anything to do with it, the power supply still takes in 120V AC Power and converts it to 12V DC power. When you have a ground fault that circuit will feed back through the line in an attempt to get to earth. I would highly recommend checking your outlet/surge protector with something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/

If your outlet is still good, I would return the printer if you can.

It was pretty common in homes of a certain era to install a GFCI outlet and then daisy-chain a bunch of outlets, even in an entirely different room, off that one GFCI outlet.

It might not be obvious how the circuit is run, you can pick up a cheap test tool at the hardware store with a GFCI-test button on it, that will trigger the GFCI in the chain, if one exists.

Get him one of these for his birthday:

https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU

Possibility of outlet wired wrong. Test your outlets with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503875873&sr=8-1&keywords=Sperry+Instruments+GFI6302+GFCI

They sell GFCI testers which will reliably trip the breaker without causing damage (assuming the wiring is done somewhat properly). It wouldn't break anything, but would disable the outlet and would bug the neighbor. Here's the one I have https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RUL2UU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

>a modern house with current wiring would also experience overheating

This issue was not present at our previous residence.

>How do you know they are not grounded?

I plugged one of these into the outlets, and it reports open ground.

> I've come to realize that the whole venue isnt properly grounded aftering dealing with this hiss/hum from all the mains.

You have actually tested the grounding right? You're not just making an assumption? These things cost like $10. http://amzn.com/B000RUL2UU

Leatherman - Skeletool® Multi-Tool, Stainless Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XU9NXW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vNErxbKEVHH1D
Still $41.25 without Prime.
Your account doesn't really matter as long as its flaired but this is the first time a knifeswapper has been concerned about doxxing.... Also sort of a red flag? I would probably keep the worry about Internet enemies quiet :)
GLWS!

Came here to say this, this was my best purchase all summer 👍 CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

the buy it for life crowd will always argue for superior quality and buying a good tool. However another random redditor once summarized a different pragmatic:
"Buy a cheap tool, if it does the job you win. If you use it enough to break it you now are justified on buying the good version that might last you a lifetime."
I love harbor freight for economy cheap hand tools.

My exception is buy a good drill/driver. My current house might be close to 50% held together by work from my Milwaukee at this point.

Other tools no one mentioned that will come in handy: Outlet tester/live circuit detector, A stud finder, a set of allen wrenches.

You can use a (fairly strong neodymium) magnet to find the sheetrock screws they use to, well, hold up the sheetrock. If you find a couple of magnetic spots in a line, odds are a beam is there. They even make magnets encased in plastic for this exact purpose.

Disclaimer: I don't really know anything about the strapping /u/jerkfacebeaversucks was talking about, so the magnet may be fooled by that too.

This is what I use. Unfortunately they are not completely sealed cubby spaces, so if you jostle it hard some of the beads may leak out into other cub holes. But each space fits 1000 beads very comfortably ~60 colors. If you mount it like its designed for you'll never have a problem.

A couple of years ago, /u/DancingQueen5961 recommended this storage cabinet by Akro-Mils. I filed it in my wishlist and sat on the idea for a while.

Now I've finally bought one. Two of the concerns raised in the original thread do apply, specifically:

These single-sized drawers can't fit larger accessories. (The case with the multiple drawer sizes would be best for that.)

Front lip may catch on things when the drawer is opened. I might not use the figma bags for this reason. However, I'd probably still use some buffer material in the drawers to keep things from bouncing around too much.

The issue with too many drawers doesn't apply in my case: I actually have more figures with accessories than the cabinet has drawers, though as mentioned not all of them will have all of their accessories be suitable for the cabinet. But it's enough to work as I'm planning to use it for parts storage for the figures that I tend to change parts on often.

Now to actually finish loading the thing.

Akro-mils 64 drawer seems to be what most people here use. https://www.amazon.ca/Akro-Mils-10164-Plastic-Storage-Hardware/dp/B000LDH3JC

I'll start with a meta one. How do you organize your parts?

I am currently using 4 of these: https://www.amazon.com/Akro-Mils-10164-Plastic-Storage-Hardware/dp/B000LDH3JC

with a mix of 15 of these: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80102919/

And I feel like i just can't keep things as organized as I'd like. What do you do?

Thanks! I'm hoping I can pull off a decent finish. Nervous about the ironing phase since this will be my largest project to date. As for the organizer I came across them in post on this sub from a few years back. Here's the link to it on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDH3JC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_dQjVCb24HTHXM

The drawers perfectly fit a 1000 pack of beads. I just cut the names of the colors off the bags and tape them to drawers and then organize them in a rainbow spectrum.

If you go that far, I'd reccomend getting something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519316688&sr=8-3

It will show problems that you might miss if you are just plugging something in, and it's a good idea to test GFCI too.

No idea about the cost, but if you have a level of confidence and have some idea what you're doing, you could pop the cover off that electric panel and see what type of wires run into the circuit breakers and what they feed. If modern wires run into breaker #1, and you turn that off and the wall fixtures turn off.. well there you go.

K&T should be easier to spot inside the box, no ground, probably dusty, and wrapped in cloth. Mapping the breakers, figuring out what controls what room/wall/fixture is a good idea. Flip them off one at a time and have someone upstairs plugging something in an checking them..

Also, I highly recommend one of these guys to quikcly test and tell you if the wiring is correct:

http://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Outlet-Tester/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=pd_cp_hi_0

GFCI outlets on a GFCI circuit breaker? I think that's overkill unless there was some funny wiring going on.

Here is a tester that will show if the outlet is wired correctly and if it's GFCI protected. Might be worth the $5 for piece of mind:

Sperry Instruments GFI6302 GFCI Outlet / Receptacle Tester, Standard 120V AC Outlets, 7 Visual Indication / Wiring Legend, Home & Professional Use, Yellow & Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cUWeAbQG51J7V

ETA: There could also be another GFCI outlet on the circuit that you don't know about that is providing GFCI protection. The GFCI outlet that was protecting the other outlets in our bathroom was under the sink, tucked under a shelf that I did not notice for two years until the outlets stopped working and I needed to find out why.

You get a simple outlet tester like this:

Sperry Instruments GFI6302 GFCI Outlet / Receptacle Tester, Standard 120V AC Outlets, 7 Visual Indication / Wiring Legend, Home & Professional Use, Yellow & Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_yBILDbSMB9JYX

I use one of these

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RUL2UU/

You plug it in the outlet and push the button on top. If the outlet is on a gfci, it should trip it and the power at that outlet (and any others on the gfci) will go out.

I’d love a little HELP! Never can have too many hand sun sticks.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F5H3CFH/ref=twister_B07GQKMZYV?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

Stanley tool organizer. It literally fits X-Wing items perfectly and can be customized to your needs. I'm buying two more just in case... CHEAP on Amazon :)

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-25-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B00005QWYF

I highly recommend them, I have the Leek non-serrated. Best Knife I have ever owned.

So baked goods, socks I need to get on Buns' level if at all possible, 20mm or 22mm Nato Watch Straps, Beers, Maybe a new Flashlight pocket knives, kindle books, T-shirts xxl ( i shrink things a lot), Hoodies same size, games(card, board, video)

Kershaw Leek!

And, you'll have enough left over to buy a few cases of fruit.

[S&W Shield 9MM] (http://www.smith-wesson.com/firearms/mp-9-shield-0)

[CYA Supply Co. IWB Holster] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IPNAW6U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[Timex Chronograph] (https://www.express.com/clothing/men/timex-miami-chronograph-gift-set/pro/04741814/color/SILVER)

[Kershaw Leek] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009VC9Y0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[Gerber Dime Multi Tool] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006M9NIDO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[Klarus Mini One 130 Lumens Rechargeable Flashlight] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077VLY8R3/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[House of Jack Double ID Bifold Wallet] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UDPNBBM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[Zippo Venetian Slim High Polish Brass] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000W34K5Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

3' Keychain Measuring Tape

Lip Balm/Comb

Gold plated Tungsten Carbide pinky ring

Extra 7-Round Mag

For the record, I feel the same that the Cryo is too slippery - which is why I'm super glad Kershaw released a G10 version of it last year.

I also agree that the Tenacious is just a bit too big for EDC - and they do make the Persistence, which is a shrunken version of the Tenacious, with a 2.75 inch blade vs the Tenacious' 3-3/8 inch blade. If you wanna go even smaller, the Ambitious has a 2.25" blade. All 3 knives share a similar design (though the Ambitious is small enough that the proportions might look a little weird to some).

A few other knives of note that are standouts in the sub-$50 price range:

• CRKT Ripple - Ken Onion design with a more-traditional drop point blade, IKBS, 8Cr14MoV. Usually on most people's "Under $50" list.
  
  
• Kershaw Leek - Again, a little slippery and still Speedsafe but a slightly weaker torsion bar so not as forceful. Some people have issues with broken tips since they're a little thin, but this thing was the best under $50 when it came out.
  
  
• Ontario RAT 1 - At $25 this thing is a pretty great package, if not a little big. 3.5" blade, but it's AUS-8 if you don't like the 8Cr China steels (even if they are pretty similar).
  
  
• SOG Flash II - again, a 3.5 inch, AUS-8 blade. Assisted opening, but much less forceful than Speedsafe.
  
  
• The Kershaw Emerson CQC-6K has blown up since it's release and a lot of high speed low drag tactical types love it for EDC use. $25 makes it a pretty appealing choice and rock solid under $30.
  
  
• The Spyderco Delica 4 is just a touch over $50, averaging about $60, but it's also a go-to knife in the $50 for many people. VG-10 steel on this one is a big selling point.
  
  
• On the same hand, the Kershaw Blur is usually available for about $60, and for those looking for a big folder (seriously this thing is large) it's a great choice. Sandvik 14C28N as standard steel, also available with S30V for about $75.
  
  A few notes here
  
  
• You'll see a lot of sub $50 knives using 8Cr13MoV or 8Cr14MoV. The main difference is a little more Chromium in the 8Cr14MoV, leading to a little more corrosion resistance. A lot of people loved the Skyline, but there were a few issues with minor rust spots on the knives, leading to many companies switching to 8Cr14MoV for some of their knives (most of the budget Kershaws are 8Cr14MoV now).
  
  
• Kershaw has many many options for budget folders under $50, for all kinds of aesthetic tastes. The Chill, Thermite, Link, Oso Sweet, etc. I've owned a handful of Kershaws, and loved all of them, especially for the price.
  
  
• The 8Cr steels (13MoV and 14MoV) are pretty much on par with AUS-8, especially from CRKT, Spyderco, and Kershaw who all do a good job on their heat treats. There's a slight difference in hardness (3 to 4 HRC difference by most counts), but really they're nearly identical for all intents and purposes, mainly sharpening and edge retention. Some people just prefer AUS-8 because they don't like so called "China steel."
  
  
  ETA a few more links and some clarification of my still-awake-at-5am rambling.

Im a big fan of the Delta Cycle 2 bike stand.

For the third, you may just go with a hook to store it vertically.

7 is an excellent option for an apartment, but I would disagree with that article's statement of relying entirely on gravity. It includes one anchor and screw to keep it from tilting while loading/unloading.

My apartment setup

$55 on Amazon

Oh ok, what about something like this?

A couple weeks ago I wanted to do the same (but without making holes in the wall) and picked up this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ACAM38/

I use this stand - which actually doesn't hurt the walls very much.

http://amzn.com/B000ACAM38

Why don't ya save money and install a bidet?

Also it is fine to use wipes as long as they go in the trash and not flushed.

A lifesaver

Also, I get the Cottonelle wipes to take with me anytime I am away from home. I absolutely hate using any TP these days, in those rare instances, feels like I am walking around nasty.

I have refurbished / reconditioned or otherwise repaired just about every component in my theater. The KEF speakers are all same era and generation, plus or minus a few years.

Front Channels: KEF 103/4 Reference speakers - owner replaced foam surrounds on the internal push/pull woofers - and I refurbished the ferrofluid in the tweeters. $175 off craigslist

Center Channel: NOS (new old stock) KEF Model 100 - found on craigslist. Someone found it in their garage, sitting new in box for 20 years. Refurbished the tweeter (ferrofluid replacement). $60 off craigslist.

Surround Channels: KEF C55 speakers that I found at Goodwill for $20. Complete cleanup - ferrofluid treatment of tweeters. Great condition otherwise.

Rear Channel: KEF Model 90 "center channel" speaker - bought this before I found the Model 100. Roughly the same speaker, but smaller tweeter than the model 100. Tweeter refurbed, cleaned up inside and out. I went with a 6.1 configuration because my room wouldn't benefit much from 7.1 - and the window placement made that difficult. Mixing 7.1 down to 6.1 doesn't change much. $40 off Craigslist.

Subwoofer: PA-120 Premier Acoustics 12'' Subwoofer had this sub for 8 years now, and love it to pieces. Very punchy, very powerful, very affordable. Weighs a metric ton - and customer service was top notch. (Amp malfunctioned after 6 years - got a new one from them free of charge).

Surround AV Receiver: Marantz SR6008 receiver I bought for $200 on ebay because it was 'for parts/not working.' The HDMI1 output (there are two) was burned out. Bought a new HDMI board from Marantz for a hundred bucks and the thing is good as new.

Speaker Mounts: The left C55 surround and rear channel are on custom made speaker mounts - the rear is half custom - mounted to one of the speaker mounts I got from Amazon.

Projection Screen: Custom 105'' Screen Frame and made from a canibalized Da-Lite screen I got for free from work. (was hiding in the plenum when we purchased our office space.

Projector: Benq HT1075 - bought new, because it's already so cost effective. Found it on sale at Frys for $699 a year ago. Very happy with this little projector.

Theater/Home Automation: Home Assistant running on an iPad 3 in the theater room. The iPad was sitting in a drawer, not in use for at least a year, and found an OEM apple dock for $5 on ebay for when it's not in use. I can control my Smart Things devices (z-wave dimmer) - MiLight LED strips behind the screen, in the EXIT light, and the bulbs in the uplight/spotlights in the room, I also integrated Broadlink RM2 support for controlling cheap 433mhz outlet switches for the air purifier, popcorn machine, and whatever else I need to control.

Movie Posters: Marketing department had a bunch of these frames in storage from an old PR campaign. Tore out the foamcore inserts, found high res posters, and ordered them on this silk-like fabric directly from China for $9 a pop. They look incredible up close, almost lithograph-like.

RGB Lighting: Generic RGB Strips I bought for $5 a pop on price mistake with Milight RGB controllers. Milight 9W RGBW bulbs I got for $13 each in $15 brushed steel uplights from Lamps Plus. All controled with the Milight WiFi controller through Home Assistant.

Seating was transitioned from the living room when we bought new sofas - raised the rear seating on 10'' platform. 12GA Speaker wire from my local wire wholesaler (similar price to monoprice). Looking for some carpet options - and have a lead on a local seller of OC703 for acoustic panels.

It's come a long way in a year - here's a before and after - December 2015 and April 2016 -- not the most recent, obviously - but I'm very proud with how it's coming together.

Depending on how much you want to spend, this could be done several different ways. Let's just say you want to keep it under $35... Here's what you might do (keep in mind this isn't exactly what you were going for, but it might be a better option depending on how you look at it):

Get the ZAP 5XL from Amazon for $30. It comes with 5 outlet adapters that plug into one socket on each of your existing outlets, and gives you a remote controlled outlet. These outlets are then controlled by a wireless remote that has 5 on/off buttons. The remote can be programmed to control multiple outlets with one button.

You could then surface mount a blank wall plate to the wall, and use a 3m command Velcro like strip to attach the remote to that blank wall plate. This would allow the remote to act as a stationary wall switch and also a removable remote control.

This is the LED strip I used. Super easy to install! Just needed to find a 12v adapter to power it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_n0BFybX7K675J

led lighting strips.

I've been using multiple FLS-PP along with LED strips and it works fine with the current HUE firmware, you can get one of the modules and see if it works with your LED strip, just a quick look, and it has the same plug that the 5050s LEDs I have, but the 5050s LEDS are RGB.

• FLS-PP LED Light Controller
  
• RGB LED Strip
  
• Power Adapter
  
  or
  
  
• FLS-PP, Power Adapter, and LED Strip

https://www.amazon.ca/Ontario-Knife-Sp-Black-Handle-Folding/dp/B00BBPAOCW/ref=pd_bxgy_200_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=PPSW9TW75C63ZAXA5MBA
If you don't like the size, the RAT 1 is slightly bigger.
https://www.amazon.ca/Kershaw-1760-Skyline-Textured-Handle/dp/B001CZBDF8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488135474&sr=8-1&keywords=Kershaw+skyline

The bigger issue is what's in the wall behind the outlets. Two-prong outlets are connected to hot and neutral wires only. Three-prong outlets are connected to hot, neutral, and ground wires (contained in a single cable). Changing the outlet won't help, other than giving something three-prong plugs will fit into. The wiring in the walls would need to be replaced, which could be an expensive proposition. I'd also check those kitchen outlets to see if they're actually grounded. It would be unusual for part of an apartment to get rewired and not the whole thing. This type of device will answer that question quickly: http://www.amazon.com/GE-3-Wire-Receptacle-Tester-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=sr_1_3

Get one of these and test ALL the outlets. The three pong receptacles may not be properly grounded.

https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-3-Wire-Receptacle-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA

With my 1950's house I got lucky. The house was wired with a ground wire but since this was before the days of 3 prong receptacles they tied the ground wire to each receptacle box (all metal boxes). Everything was grounded properly at the panel so all I had to do was just add a short piece of copper from a spare screw in each box to the ground screw of the new three prong receptacles I bought.

The sidebar link that was provided will give you other options aside from a full rewire job.

Ham radio operator here. Make sure you have proper grounding. That is, make sure you have a shielded PC case (NO BIG PLEXIGLAS WINDOWS), and make sure your power cord is properly grounded (3-prong plug into a 3-prong outlet). Make sure your outlet is appropriately grounded (get one of these). Make sure your home/building uses an appropriate ground rod at your mains feedpoint (where the power lines enter your building).

Then, ferrites on all cords leading to your audio amplifier (amplified speakers). That includes, the audio input, the power line and any speaker outputs.

ChipQwik - use it like solder. It mixes with the solder and lowers its melting point, making it stay molten longer. This is good for desoldering tiny things.

Flux pen - flux is a liquid that helps guide the solder. Any youtube video about soldering can provide an explanation.

Solder sucker - melt the solder, suck it up

Solder wick - melt the solder, soak it up.

You don't need to get these exact products, but they're all handy. You can get by without the chipqwik, but the rest should be in every soldering toolkit. Also remember that solder will like to move towards the soldering iron, so you can kind of use it to pick up any excess solder if you do it right.

I should note that I've never done a usb port before, so I can't guide you on exactly how to do it. I'm a bit of a newb myself. Just devour a few youtube tutorials, and try it. Soldering is really a skill learned by doing, and like I said, you have nothing to lose at this point. No point in being afraid to fail now.

Oh wow, MX black switches are usually not very tight fitting with caps either. MX clear switches are the ones that are notorious for this! Sorry this happened to you OP. This isn't the greateast video showing how to de-solder switches but should give you a decent ideal of what you'll need to do. The only tools you'll really need are a sodapullt, some solder wick, & a decent temp controlled soldering station. Well, TBH you could get away with a cheaper soldering iron if all you plan on ever using it for is replacing these few switches. Although I will say cheap soldering irons with no temp. control are much easier to damage the PCB or pads with.

https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4

make sure to clean it periodically and make sure the nozzle sits flush. otherwise look into this one https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4

I used this one from amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=desolder+pump&qid=1567697886&s=gateway&sr=8-6

Be really careful. Don't rip the switches out if they don't come out. Just keep trying to remove the solder successfully without burning any pads or damaging any traces. Not being careful is how I managed to screw up my Poseidon Z. (funnily enough I tried installing the same switches)

If you don't mind spending extra money, I really recommend the Engineer SS-02 solder sucker. It has a silicone tip that allows you to get right up against the soldering iron to suck up as much solder as possible.

Got a soldering iron for Christmas and dove right in. This is my third 60% build, and by far my favorite.

Parts

• Clear acrylic case and Gat greens from Sentraq
  
• PCB from TechKeys
  
• Black aluminum plate and Cherry stabs from Originative
  
• DSA keycaps (PBT) from PMK
  
• LEDs from switchTop
  
• E-Projects 200 Ohm Resistors from Amazon
  
  

  Tools
  

• Solder sucker
  
• Heat Resistant Soldering Mat
  
• Hakko FX888D Soldering Station
  
• Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .031"
  
• Klein Tools Lightweight Flush Cutter
  
  I'm still tweaking my QMK keymap, but will contribute it to the repo once I get it to a good spot.
  

My preference is smart switches. $34 on amazon. Bulbs go bad, lamps change. A switch will last longer and is universal. You could also go with a outlet for similar price. Plus with a bulb the device needs power all the time, so if the switch gets turned off your routine wont work properly.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-Z-Wave/dp/B0035YRCR2

If you google "zwave switch" (not dimmer) you'll find tons. Not to sound mean, but did you try searching?

• This link has tons of different brands: https://www.zwaveproducts.com/shop/z-wave-lighting/z-wave-wall-switches
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2
  
  
• https://store.leviton.com/collections/z-wave/products/decora-smart-switch-with-z-wave-technology-dz15s-1bz?variant=33948827971
  
  
• Not in the first page of results, but I know of this one as well: https://shop.homeseer.com/products/homeseer-hs-ws100-z-wave-plus-scene-capable-wall-switch?variant=20302954182
  
  There are also plenty of zigbee or wifi switches (not dimmers) out there as well.
  
  Also, if you want a fan controller that can handle both the light and the fan, you can put something in the box above the fan, though it looks like this one is discontinued. You may be able to find something similar:
  http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-Bay-Wink-Enabled-White-Universal-Ceiling-Fan-Premier-Remote-Control-99432/206591100?keyword=206591100
  
  
  

I had 3 fistulas: 1 low, 2 high. They did a fistulotomyb the low one and put draining setons in the 2 high ones. That was 5 months ago.

I bathe twice per day, each time for minimum 30 minutes but often for 90-120 minutes per bath. I read books, check reddit on my phone, watch videos, etc. I'm trying to jerry-rig some setup where I'd feel secure having my laptop in there so I could work during the day. It's hard to overstate how good a hot soak feels.

I also have a bidet on my toilet and a travel bidet which I take with me whenever I'm not home. I use panty liners to deal with drainage and change those 3-4 times per day.

I'm so grateful to have flexibility with my job where I can work from home on days I don't feel well. This experience would be much worse if I had limitations on my hygiene.

Other than the fistulas and 5-6 watery bowel movements per day I'm not overly symptomatic (subject to diet) so I'm grateful for that.

Started remicade and methotrexate a month ago. GI & colorectal surgeon want to give it 9-12 months and see if the fistulas are closing up.

Bidet links:

Base $35 model, cold water only https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RHSJO

Deluxe $60 model, hot and cold water https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RX2UI

Travel Bidet: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CSDKSQ

Lol, alright for example:

• Spyderco Delica 4 FFG: For your price range this is going to be the "best" steel you can get in a near 3" folding knife (VG-10). By best I mean the best edge retention in a stainless steel. However, being over 2.5" in some places (Chacago for example) the knife will be illegal. Also, many people do not like the look of the spyderhole as it can be seen as aggressive in office environments. Also the FRN handles, while very strong, have a cheap/plastic feel to them.
  
  
• Spyderco Tenacious: Compared to the Delica, 8CR13MOV is a "worse" stainless steel (not as good edge retention, more prone to chipping during heavy impacts). However, the extra blade length is better for many outdoor tasks (breaking down tree branches). The handle is also G10, which is slightly tougher and has a much better feeling in hand than FRN.
  
  
• Spyderco Centofante 3: A more "gentlemanly" and "office friendly" version of the Delica with a slightly longer blade. Again, VG-10 and FRN.
  
  
• Kershaw Cryo II: Same steel as the tenacious. Metal handles slightly tougher than G10. Flipper action has "cool" factor. The blade grind makes the tip a touch stronger than on the tenacious.
  
  
• Kershaw Skyline: One of the most iconic of Kershaw's knives. Hollow ground blade makes it great at slicing tasks.
  
  
• Esee Izula: Skeletonized fixed blade. 1095 Steel is significantly better than the other steels listed at "chopping" tasks as it is not prone to chipping at all. It is NOT stainless and so the blade has a protective coating over most of it. The steel will require mineral oil/cleaning to prevent rusting.
  
  
• Becker BK 24: Similar to the Esee Izula but D2 steel which has better edge retention and more corrosion resistance than 1095. It is also much harder to sharpen. Many think the BK24's handle is also less comfortable, the sheath is worse, and there are less available after market modifications.
  
  
• Ontario Rat Series (linked the RAT I. RAT 2 similar but smaller): Ontario's version of the tenacious. Bladeshape generally more people friendly. Another very popular beater option.
  
  
• Morakniv Knives (there are MANY, this is just one): Highly regarded in the "bushcraft" community. High carbon steel (similar to 1095) with a scandi-grind which is great for field sharpening and woodworking. Only partial tangs so not advised to use for battoning tasks or chopping.
  
  
• Kershaw OD-2: Gentlemanly knife with great flipping action.
  
  There are a LOT more suggestions I could add...

Here are my personal essentials.

• Spyderco Delica 4: $60 VG-10 steel, comes in tons of colors
  
• Spyderco Endura 4: Larger version of Delica
  
• Morakniv Companion: $12-$20 A really awesome fixed blade, outperforms knives triple it's price.
  
• Victorinox Tinker: $20-25 classic swiss army knife, really great quality in general. Lots of tools but not too many so it's easily pocket carried.
  
• Victorinox Cadet: Smaller Swiss Army Knife, aluminum handles. Lots of colors.
  
• Kershaw Cryo, or Cryo 2: $20-40 steel frame lock, Hinderer design, good price, tons of colors. The Cryo 2 is the same as the Cryo just larger.
  
• Ontaro Rat 1 or 2: $25-30 Classically shaped folders with a very rugged build for a liner lock. The 2 is a smaller version of the 1.
  
  Also, you're going to want a sharpening system that works for you in the long run. I personally use the Spyderco Sharpmaker But there are tons of good sharpening options out there.
  
  P.S: You're going to get a lot of people hating on your Gerbers most likely, that's because they're honestly not worth it in the long run. They use very low quality steel for the price and they don't have the best quality control. I'm not saying your Gerbers are trash or anything. But they definitely won't last very long. Just about all of the knives I listed will last you a lifetime if you treat them right, and oil/sharpen them correctly.

That's a tricky one. Normally I'd say get the hell out because the guy definitely does not know his boundaries. You just being nice to him makes him think you wants to fuck and that's just pathetic and wrong.

However realistically if you only have two months to go, it might be tricky to break your contract and find a new place just like that. And expensive.

Have you tried to specifically tell him at a neutral time (for example, not after he tried something with you in anger) that you do not appreciate his advances and that if he touches you inappropriately again, you'll go to the cops?

Or if that's a scary prospect, perhaps put it in writing? After saying that, ignore contact with him. Be clear about that - don't be polite, you don't have to be. He ruined that. Also get some pepperspray just in case.

As for your door, try and find one of these locks. They do not require any drilling what-so-ever (I assume because you're renting you can't drill in the doors for a real lock) and will still offer extra safety and security, so you at least will feel a bit more comfortable for the remaining two weeks.

Here's a cheap lock you can get for your door that doesn't require installation: Amazon Page

These work pretty good in my experience. Cheapest ones I've seen are around 5 bucks.

What about temporary locks while you're in there? I can't see how that's any different than putting a chair against the door.

This is my go to for all exterior doors, would be difficult to defeat. There is no opening the door if this is latched vs th chain/u style.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D2K367Y?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

As a temp alternative I also have an addalock:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00186URTY?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

I'd also carry a normal multi-tool (I carry a Leatherman Skeletool). They do come in handy, especially for pulling out stubborn pokey things that work themselves into your tires. The knife and screwdriver can be handy as well at times.

thank mr skeletool

List of gear:

• Sharpie, Fisher Space Bullet Pen w/ clip
  
• Bear Grylls Survival Serrated Knife
  
• Leatherman Skeletool w/ leather sheath
  
• Humvee LED Flashlight w/ hockey tape for mouth-use * Barska 10-30x50 Gladiator Binoculars
  
• Ruled Leather Mini-Notebook
  
• 4-stripe epaulettes
  
• Slim, bifold leather wallet
  
• Droid Razr Maxx w/ Moto Belt-clip Holster

If you want a folder, the Rat by the Ontario Knife Company is definitely a great choice.


Just read some reviews. For $27 you are getting a ridiculously well made knife.

A RAT, a Tenacious, an Opinel, or a Cryo are the usual choices. What's wrong with 8cr13mov steel? It's not the best but for sub $30, it'll get the job done.

For fixed blade if you are gonna be using the knife for hard use then I would not recommend a folder. I'm more knowledgeable on folders so someone else may find a better choice. If they don't, this is still a very solid choice, I have never had one, but I did have an izula (which is very similar).

For folder I would go with the Ontario rat, they make this is d2 blade steel which would be better and they make a smaller version (rat 2) but any version of this knife you choose will be the best for the money.

Another fixed blade that is similar to picture is this Schrade. Schrade usually isn't the best company but 1095 is definitely a cheap, good steel. With the blade thickness and steel, I would trust this knife any day.

One of the many Kershaw Chinese made knives, like the Tremor or the Scamp. A Buck Vantage Select. You might find an Ontario Rat 1 for under $25 if you search around.

There are also several Chinese brands that are pretty cheap and very decent quality, you can find on ebay, or http://www.exduct.com.

If you're spending $100, most well known brands will be sharp and strong. The rest depends on taste and preference. But a few options

• Benchmade mini griptilian, the axis lock is bomb proof. 154cm (the steel) is pretty good for that price range.
  
  
• Cold Steel mini recon
  Triad lock is really tough, CTS-XHP is a great steel. Cold Steel knives always come razor sharp, and are known for being indestructible.
  
  
• Cold Steel rajah III, BD1, bit softer steel but still a good blade.
  
  
• Ontario rat 1, a lot cheaper but hey, why not buy 2? Softer steel, but easy to sharpen. Tough knife on a budget.
  
  
• Kershaw Blur Has assisted opening, decent steel. But your paying more because of the opening mechanism
  
  
• Kershaw scallion. All metal knife, assisted opening. 420HC is pretty tough.
  
  
• Gerber 06 fast Assisted opening. I'm not the biggest fan of 7cr17mov. The knife is strong though.
  
  
  And most likely every person reading this will have another knife to recommend. It's a lot about personal preference. What look do you like, what lock do you like.
  
  edit; Thanks kind stranger for the gold!

My favorite under-50 knife is the Spyderco Tenacious. They make a couple of smaller knives at a similar price point too.

Ontario Rat is another good value - about $25 - good tough knife for outdoor stuff.

Here are some affordable options.

Ontario 8848 RAT Folding Knife (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013ASG3E/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_7ziUub1K4FP48

Spyderco Tenacious G-10 Handle Folding Plain Edge Knife https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EI7578/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_OAiUub1JC6EFZ

JETBeam BA10 XPG Cree LED Flashlight, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UG51OK/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_pBiUub02WTDZZ

Fenix LD09 130 Lumen LED Tactical Flashlight with EdisonBright AA Alkaline battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MB1MJFA/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_YIiUub0M7RSYV

Your intended type, volume, and roughness of use, and your sharpening willingness and skills will play a role in what knife and steel you get, though the cheaper you go, you lose some options. Do you want a folding knife or would you consider a fixed blade? Do you know how long a blade you might like? I think about 3.5" is basically "full" size in folding knives, with 3.0" being medium and particularly EDC-friendly, while smaller than that gets into mini territory. Lots of options in all sizes, plus big bigger ones. Are you a drop point guy? A reverse tanto blade shape guy? Spear point? Clip point? And do you prefer a liner lock, frame lock, axis lock, other lock? Do you prefer to open via thumb stud, front flipper, rear flipper, assisted open? Do you want plastic, rubber, G10, CF, metal, or something else on the handle? Do you want clip options for left carry, right carry, tip up, or tip down? Do you care if it's heavier? Do you need ultralight? Average weight?

Just searching Amazon for Ganzo (or Sanrenmu) will give you a bevy of cheap options, many of which look suspiciously familiar.

If you've got an extra four bucks and change and would prefer something American made and smaller, you can get the knife community's go-to recommendation for a great deal on a reliable smallish-midsize workhorse, the Ontario Rat 2. Get a ruler and imagine what you'd think of a 7 inch knife with a 4 inch handle an a 3 inch blade. Watch some review videos to get a better idea of size. A nice bonus is four-way reversible pocket clip for your choice of left/right and tip-up/tip-down carry. This cheaper version is in AUS-8 steel, which is easier to sharpen but holds an edge less well than the more expensive and harder to sharpen D2 version, which gets up closer to $40.. And at that price you could bump up to the larger Rat 1 in D2 if you wanted to for a buck or two more, though we're trying to hit $20 here. That one's got a 3.625" blade for 8.625" overall.

Anyway if you can answer some of the questions in the first paragraph, it will help people narrow things down for you and give you better recommendations. What would your ideal knife have? Fill in the blanks on fixed/folding, blade length, blade shape, handle material, open type, lock type, pocket clip preferences, and anything else like color, weight, etc.

And check out /r/Ganzo_Knives and /r/BudgetBlades for additional ideas.

Swiss Army Knife

Kershaw method

Kershaw Westin

Ganzo FH-11

Byrd Medowlark 2

Opinel #8

Ontario Rat 1

All of these are going to last longer and perform better than the MTech. In terms of appearance and esthetics, nobody is going to look askance if you pull out a Swiss army knife or an opinel. Flicking your mtech will likely be a different story. You should carry what you enjoy, but understand that conventional wisdom is going to look down on the appearance and, if they know about knives, the MTech brand. If you go with the Mtech, don't trust the lock too much and don't be surprised if the assist mechanism breaks.

I was thinking something similar.
1 Ontario 8848 RAT
2 Kershaw Chill (A bit slimmer, lighter, and sleeker than the Clash)
3 CRKT Drifter G10

I just bought the Chill, and I love it! At 1.9 oz, it's half the weight of the Clash. The locking system is nice and smooth. I loosened the tension a little so I don't need to flick my wrist, just a quick trigger pull on the tab. So far, nothing I can complain about.

Well heres a list of some from amazon.

• Opinel No8 Carbon Pocket Knife | $12 | 4.6 Stars
  
  
• Kershaw Chill Serrated Pocket Knife | $21 | 4.8 Stars
  
  
• Kershaw Brawler Speedsafe Knife | $23 | 4.5 Stars
  
  
• Ontario RAT Folding Knife | $27 | 4.8 Stars
  
  
• Kershaw Cryo Speed Safe Folding Knife | $30 | 4.4 Stars
  
  
• Spyderco Ambitious Plain Edge Knife | $33 | 4.5 Stars
  
  
• Spyderco Tenacious Plain Edge Knife | $34 | 4.7 Stars
  
  
• Camillus Carbonitride Titanium Folding Knife | $37 | 4.8 Stars
  
  
• Kershaw Ken Onion Leek Folding Knife with Speed Safe | $39 | 4.7 Stars
  
  Hope that helps!
  
  PS if you aren't sure about your knife laws check out this PDF just scroll to your state and check. Also /r/Knives can probably help you if you have more specific questions about knives. Although going to that sub-reddit will also probably mean spending more than $30 so be forewarned.

I just bought a Ontario Rat-1 based on some positive reviews from friends. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013ASG3E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

24 bucks is not a bad deal. My go to carry are Benchmade Griptilian 550s and want to see how these stack up.

Deploy a Citrix or RDP redirect to his corporate PC over VPN VM for him to use with 2 factor authentication and a US-based certificate authority. That way he can travel with no corporate data in tow, where he might be forced to decrypt the laptop for foreign border agencies which are known to work with intelligence services. Since he will want to travel light, perhaps buy him a Macbook and don't forget power converters for Africa. Don't forget to deploy antivirus (with an uninstall password set) and filevault, even on Mac and make sure he cannot save the password in the RDP software. If you do go the Mac route, don't forget to deploy a password on the firmware as well. Don't give him local admin on the laptop but insert a local admin account for a backup he doesn't know exists unless told about in a troubleshooting session.

I hate Surface Pro's but they are such a bitch to tamper with (don't forget to also setup secure boot microsoft only, no USB boot allowed in the uefi firmware and set a password on it) that most attempts would be physically visible. Remember, give him a REALLY GOOD remote experience (Citrix works good over high latency / low bandwidth links) and he will want to comply with all of this.

Do not allow him under any circumstances to take an Android phone overseas. I highly recommend a iPhone with a heavy duty "Unicorn Beetle" case (check Amazon) and a USB charge only cable: https://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-Block-20AWG-Lightning-Cable/dp/B01F7AU62E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1522957207&sr=8-2&keywords=charge+only+iphone&dpID=31dRwWAKkBL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

For everything else: https://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-Data-Blocker-Adaptor-SmartCharge/dp/B00T0DW3F8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1522957248&sr=8-2&keywords=charge+only+adapter

and send him with at least two of these: https://www.amazon.com/Rishon-Enterprises-Inc-I9889-Addalock/dp/B00186URTY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522957319&sr=8-1&keywords=hotel+room+lock these should be inside his laptop bag and with him at all times. I recommend a backpack: North Face Borealis.

If he's going out of cell range, I recommend purchasing a Garmin Inreach and activating it for $65 a month. It will allow him to cheaply send and receive SMS messages via Iridum and a smartphone. Let him know that any communications over this is not secure whatsoever.

Run firmware updates on everything right before he leaves.

One of these

I have this for extra peace of mind. Addalock - (1 Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00186URTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wozkzb1CD13WK

Trying to keep your landlord out? Lol

Try this, if you just like to be secure you can also take it with you when you travel. It is cheap and you don't have to mount it.

It absolutely can. Its heavy, so you might opt out for a lighter version, but yeah that can be used anywhere.

check out the adalock btw if you are in and out of hotels alot :

https://www.amazon.com/Rishon-Enterprises-Addalock-1-Piece/dp/B00186URTY

If you're worried about the door locks, but cant change it due to the lease - one option is to lock it at night when you're home (sleep soundly) using a portable door jam.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00186URTY/ref=dp_cerb_2

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YUX8I/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_T.a8CbDJXJTX4

Wyze Cameras are cheap and good if you dont care about hiding it.

https://youtu.be/BEW32P4rUSQ

Get Addalock - (1 Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00186URTY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_psjMub1YKTWMB for doors that don't have a dead bolt.

Get an Addalock https://www.amazon.com/Rishon-Enterprises-Inc-RE1001-Scratched/dp/B00186URTY/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1504463090&sr=8-8&keywords=door+lock

They don't alter the door frame or anything, you just put it when you are in the room and remove it when you want to leave. They are a life saver for privacy.

I saw someone mention a door jam bar, but those are large, these are travel size door jammer and locks, you can hide it in your purse when you leave for school so that he can't take it while you are out.

http://www.amazon.com/Door-Jammer-Portable-Security-Device/dp/B00BZB97AM

http://www.amazon.com/Rishon-Enterprises-Addalock-1-Piece/dp/B00186URTY/ref=pd_sim_op_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1QVDB8T434V2ZRGGHYAS

It's a travel door lock:

https://www.amazon.com/Rishon-Enterprises-Inc-I9889-Addalock/dp/B00186URTY

it's a traveler's door lock for added security in hotels

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00186URTY/ref=pd_aw_fbt_60_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GF5JC8B5GB7MHG0S65ZN

If it hasn't been suggested already, this doorstop is what I and my apartment mates use. It's renter friendly and you can use it on any door with a lock. It actually works really well. Best of luck!

Kershaw Skyline is pretty nice if you want a g-10 handle and it's US made but it is 3 1/8" long

Kershaw Cryo is pretty nice and it's 2 3/4" long

Firstly, you are in luck! The specs you listed are all available in one of my ALL TIME favorite knives. The Kershaw Skyline (video) is the finest EDC knife I've ever owned. Extremely light. Blade shape is perfect and thin... hollow ground. The grip is spectacular and you owe it to yourself to buy it. Oh, and the flipper is just perfect. Trust me you won't go wrong here. I keep mine shave sharp and it is simply a blast to own. You get used to the aesthetics. Check the reviews from amazon linked above.

Try this. I carry one everyday. Made right here in Tualatin, Oregon. Besides, it's a good tool to have on you anyway.

Kershaw Skyline is one of the best knives for the money.

The items I can think of right now that I've bought pretty much because of this subreddit:

1. Zojirushi Travel mug - I use this as my office coffee mug. I fill it up in the morning and if I get sidetracked then it's still hot hours later.
   
   
2. Saddleback Pocket ID Wallet - simple and gets the job done
   
   
3. Weber One-Touch Gold Charcoal Grill - I love this grill.
   
   
4. Red Wing Iron Ranger 8111 (amber color) - the first 3 weeks I thought I made a huge mistake but now they are the most comfortable shoes I've ever owned.
   
   
5. Fisher Space Pen - I've had to stop other people from pocketing it. My wife tried to take it because she likes the way it writes.
   
   
6. [Kershaw Skyline Knife] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CZBDF8) - I'm not into putting a lot of money into a pocketknife so this fits the bill nicely.
   
   
7. ToiletTree Heavy Duty Nose and Facial Hair Trimmer - my previous nose trimmers felt like it was ripping the hair out by the root. This one I don't feel anything and it's very well made
   
   All of these I would buy again.

I'm a huge advocate for dice boxes. Don't get me wrong, I love dice bags, but I'll take a box over a bag for general use any day.

Best place to get them is a thrift store. Comb through and I guarantee you'll stumble across something wonderful. Old jewelry boxes are the best, you can find ones from the 40's and 50's made of solid wood and they're virtually indestructible and most already have felt inlaid in them already.

You can use these for storage and rolling if you get the right one. If the lid comes off, some felt will turn it into a handy dice tray for rolling. You can buy a dice tray if your storage box doesn't allow for it. They're relatively inexpensive and it'll be the best thing you can buy for gaming since dice.

Craft stores will have ready-made boxes that you can stain and sand if you're feeling DIY but I avoid these generally because the woods are a bit softer and the boxes themselves are not very well constructed. On top of that, they can be expensive and you still have to do a lot of the work yourself. Best to go with a Goodwill find; much cheaper and you get a better box out of it in the end.

For general storage, I tend to go for a screw case. They're dirt cheap and keep everything sorted but be sure you get one with wells deep enough for your dice.

I use an open top box lined with felt that I got as a giftbox years back in conjunction with a bag. I have an amazingly soft purple leather pouch that I use to transport the dice I'm going to use for that game then I just roll in the box. Everything goes back into the screw case when I get home and no dice get lost.

...I really need to stop watching Good Eats.

> Stanley organizer boxes

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-25-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B00005QWYF

Link for the lazy.

I'm actually kicking around an idea for a rack to hold red solo cups. They hold WAY more, are dirt cheap, and are easy to replace.

Think of a shelf with lots of holes cut into it the diameter of the 2/3 line on the solo cup (the beer/ 12oz line).

This is the best I've found. I cut the plastic out and stick it in the bins to hold the ships.

Stanley 014725 25-Removable Compartment Professional Organizer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005QWYF

Was it something like this??

As for me, I was using what /u/Nybear21 suggested, but have outgrown it for two reasons:

• Mainly, I insist on using Sir Willibald's Microhangers and Gearboxes, which takes up more room in the tackleboxes than putting everything in there loosely would cause/create
  
• I have everything from the game, including epics and stuff and there just isn't quite enough room there.
  
  I still highly recommend that tacklebox or something that supports the Plano 3700 series of boxes (the 1374 was the gold standard while it was made, to the point that the top reviews on Amazon were all about X-wing).
  
  As for what I currently use, I bought a bulk of literature mailers (10x10x2 corrugated cardboard) and put those microhangers/gearboxes in there in a stack. The epics are on shelves in display that I carry in their original plastic when I transport them to the store.

I have one of these: Stanley 014725 25-Removable Compartment Professional Organizer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005QWYF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_X1DozbH3WZ1RS

I took a couple trays out to hold pencils and dry erase markers. The little trays are big enough to hold a dice set or a few minis.

These work for me:

Stanley 014725 25-Removable Compartment Professional Organizer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005QWYF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_p0Y9BbEM3MQDA

I believe it's this one, which are what I use as well: http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-25-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B00005QWYF/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452503344&sr=8-1&keywords=stanley+case

I like cases with removable bins, for instance:

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-25-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B00005QWYF

We use similar but deeper bins for the kid's legos.

Can't go wrong with keeping it simple or if you have a lot, then something like this. The latter can be an excuse to fuel an IEM addiction :).

Hi. The number of drawers is really dependent on your piece size and variety.

As for categorization, I think I can help! It's definitely not practical to keep each part in its own drawer. Instead most people sort by part (not color!), then decide on classifications as far as what to keep together. You want to keep your categories sufficiently broad, so you can easily know where to find things like plates, arches, bricks, technic pieces, etc but not be so cumbersome that you can't keep up with where things are. Labeling your drawers once you have them is very useful for this as well. As for the specific categories themselves, it really depends on your unique collection but I find this to be a good starting point: https://www.reddit.com/r/lego/comments/ayp1wt/print_out_of_rebrickable_taxonomy_poster_at_300/

​

You can branch out from there based on the pieces you have more/less of. The first modification I would recommend is to keep all 1x1 bricks/tiles/plates separate because they just sink to the bottom of a big drawer otherwise and are hard to track down. I have a bunch of tiny bins just for them in a Stanley organizer like this: https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-25-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B00005QWYF/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=stanley+25+container&qid=1554229435&s=gateway&sr=8-1 but the akro mils drawers are also highly recommended here

​

Hope this helps!

This is an idea I've had, but have not put into practice yet. Buy one of these screw organizers, and use a dry-erase marker to write on the lid over the relevant nuts/bolts/screws. I guess there's a chance that you'll wipe off the labels by mistake, but at least you won't mix them up if you're good about closing it.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00005QWYF/

I'm using this currently, works like a charm. Here's a pic in action

http://i.imgur.com/rxUyshIh.jpg

I have a decent sized collection, and either stuff a lot of models in here, or less models but pack their cards in too. Check out BBQ for cheaper and more varied alternatives.

I usually use foam to carry models, but X Wing models are sturdy enough to be alright.

By paper mini you mean Pathfinder pawns?


If So there are a crap ton of ways people store those.

I personally use [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00005QWYF?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd) as it perfectly fits all my pawns. Each case holds enough for 1 bestiary and 1 AP worth of pawns. Here's an [article] (https://m.imgur.com/gallery/tWBcd)

You can write the names of what is in each box and fix it to the cover in the corresponding spot

If you get the Pawns I would suggest getting this storage tray, I have two and the pawns fit perfectly!

Stanley Professional Organizer

I prefer the "Stanley 014725 25-Removable Compartment Professional Organizer" for small stuff like single blocks, technic parts, etc and the Ikea TROFAST for larger items and items in larger quantities.

Makes sense; mine are Stanley containers too, and they let you move around the slots as well.

This: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00005QWYF/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498044496&sr=1-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=stanley&dpPl=1&dpID=51c4igw-5ML&ref=plSrch

Holds all cards sleeved. And all dials, dice, tokens, cubes.

Organized using Stanley 25, Stanley 10, Sterlite 1961, Sterlite 1962 and ziplock bags. In the Sterlites I have all my 2xX's, 1xXs, "slopes" (anything with non-right angles on it) and "inspiration pieces" (unique pieces such as tower spires and ship hulls). In the Stanleys, I keep all other pieces organized as specifically as made sense. There's still some further sorting I can do in those (e.g. all studs are together, not separated by color), but this feels like a huge win.

I'm going to recommend knives I own. All of these are pretty high-value.

KA-BAR Dozier Folding Hunter

Manual opening. Own one myself, it's a tank... for 20$? Comes in different colors. Very light.

SOG Flash II

Assisted opening, comes out very forcefully. There's a little "wiggle" in the blade, but if you can get passed that... it's excellent. Somewhat light.

Kershaw Leek

Assisted opening, doesn't come out with as much force as the Flash II. Non-threatening, very well-made. The only thing to watch out for is the delicate tip. It's not like it'll break instantly, though. Just don't pry with it... It's great for detail work. Very thin as well. Very light.

I'm kinda going off-topic here and I hope my comments don't come across as asshole-y, but how exactly are you losing pocket clipped knives? Millions of people carry pocket clipped knives every day and don't lose them. I've been carrying a pocket clipped knife for close to 30 years and only lost one - and it had a loose pocket clip. I knew it had a loose clip and had been putting off tightening it, so it was my fault, not the knife's.

Could I suggest that you're simply carrying crappy knives? Sorry, but I noticed you're shopping in the United Cutlery class of knives, which is really, really bad quality stuff. I'd bet that if you were to simply buy a better knife, a good quality folding pocket-clipped knife, you'd have much better luck with keeping them. There's a thousand such good knives out there, for just about every budget, but for a quick suggestion, how about a Kershaw Leek? I haven't EDC'd a Leek in a long time, but they're fantastic knives that will serve you well and they don't cost a fortune. I've got several of them in different colors, have carried most of them at one time, and never had an issue with the clip.

If, on the other hand, you really want to carry a fixed blade knife, then go for it. Hell I had a cheap boot knife kinda like that in my shit-kicking, combat-boot wearing days back in the late 90's, so who am I to fault you. I have no idea if its legal or not, as I am not a lawyer, so I can't help you there. Just some things to consider...

Looks like OP has the Kershaw Chive. So I was mistaken, mine is a little bit longer, the Kershaw Leek. Great knives!

Ah, I see. Kershaw's website has it listed at the full MSRP, but most other vendors sell it at MAP, which is closer to 50 for most versions. Amazon link for example: https://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1660-Ken-Onion-Leek/dp/B0009VC9Y0

For those that care, I went with a Kershaw 1660 Ken Onion Leek mainly due to its thinness and minimal design.

http://imgur.com/a/gKhV1

Thanks for all of your help!

Specifications
___

Keys: Honda s2000 Key and remote, LED house key, Honda Leather Keychain, Short USB A to C Cable

Watch: Seiko 5 Men's SNK793 Automatic Stainless Steel Watch with Blue Dial

Laser: 500mw 445nm Stainless steel laser

Knife: Kershaw 1660 Ken Onion Leek

Phone: Very Silver Google Pixel

Wallet: Alpine Swiss Wallet of unknown model

My EDC consists of:

• Corter card sleeve
  
• Corter belt (not pictured)
  
• Casio MDV106-1A with a 3 ring zulu strap from nato strap co.
  
• iPhone 5s
  
• Leatherman Micra
  
• Micron 01 black and red
  
• Kershaw 1730SS, also not pictured because I only really carry it on the weekends

If you want a knife, take a look at the Kershaw Leek it's an awesome, medium sized folder, it is a great value for what you get. Amazon puts them on sale for sub $35 sometimes, so keep an eye out for that. It also has some different colored handle scales if you want to personalize it more to your liking.

If you want something a little smaller than the Leek, you could take a look at the Spyderco Ambitious, which is also a high value knife (less so than it's $35 bigger brother the Tenacious).

If you want an even smaller blade, take a look at the Spyderco Ladybug, it sports a 1.94 inch blade, so very inconspicuous and not "scary looking" at all. It'll look even more fun if you get yellow handle scales on it. They also have a purple version.

These are just a few options for you to look at, it really is only the tip of the iceberg. These are low cost, high value for what you get, I'm recommending the lower cost knives specifically because someone who isn't into knives might not value them as much (and thus not willing to pay higher amounts of money) compared to a person who is into knives. A lot of people think "What do I need a knife for?", well buy one, carry it on your person for a month and get back to me, you will see what a useful tool it is after carrying one for a decent amount of time.

[This (Keshaw select Fire)] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IVPKOU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.6azybTTQWBH1) has easily been the most useful knife I've owned. The blade itself is good, not great, but certainly good enough for everyday tasks. With typical knives I found myself using the blade to do things that I should have just gone and grabbed a screwdriver for and would end up chipping the edge.

However if you just want something with a good blade I'd recommend [Kershaw Leek] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009VC9Y0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SlbzybWEZ68XA)

I'm a fan of the kershaw leek

I sincerely wish you good luck, I would want that thing back, too. Worst case scenario, I snagged this (much cheaper) bad boy as an EDC a little while ago. Love the knife, highly recommended if you have to unfortunately purchase a new one.

Kershaw Leek Knife

Or, just get one of these and you won't need to worry about drilling holes.

The wall racks are these:
http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Michelangelo-Two-Bike-Gravity-Stand/dp/B000ACAM38/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1323268346&sr=1-4

They're super easy to put together and they're actually super stable.

Get a standing bike rack:
http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Michelangelo-Two-Bike-Gravity-Stand/dp/B000ACAM38/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1394212752&sr=8-5&keywords=standing+bike+rack

EDIT: The first thing you want to do, as in do this right now, is find the serial numbers of your bikes and record that information. This will be critical in the event that your bike is stolen.

*****

So for starters, you'll probably want two locks. A big, heavy U-bolt, as well as a cable/chain lock that you can put through the wheels. Ideally the cable/chain would have its own lock. Avoid those integrated rotary locks; they are shit. Here's an interesting guide testing the safety of a few popular models.

1. Pick the right thing to lock to. This seems obvious but a lot of people screw it up anyway. If you can lift your locked bike off of it, don't lock it there. (example 1, example 2.) Avoid street signs for this reason. Also, check to make sure that the object you're locking to is secured to the ground. Sometimes thieves will lay traps that look like good places to lock, but then they just pluck the trap off the ground and take the bike with them to remove the lock later. (example 1, example 2.) Other times, thieves will saw through a rack and then hide the gap with a piece of tape.
   
   
2. Always put your strongest lock through the frame. Your wheels are removable and much less valuable than the rest of your bicycle put together.
   
   
3. Always lock your wheels. Ideally you can put your U-lock through the frame as well as one of the wheels. That's particularly a good idea because it eats up empty space within the lock, which makes the lock harder to break or cut without breaking or cutting your bicycle. But even then, you'll have an unlocked wheel. Use your secondary lock to go through that wheel. If possible, also put your secondary lock through the frame and also lock it to the object you're locking to.
   
   
4. Have your bike exposed for as little time as possible. If you can have your bike inside, do so. For one thing, this prevents damage to your drivetrain if it rains. For another, your bike won't be stolen. I use something like this to store my bikes in my apartment.
   
   The theme of locking your bike is to make it too much of a bother to deal with. You can't make it impossible for your bike to be stolen, but you can make it hard enough that nobody will care. This framework also means it's a good idea to never leave a super-expensive bike unoccupied, ever. Your bikes look fine for general commuting/locking, though.

I agree. A good one i've been eyeing is https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ACAM38/?tag=thewire06-20&linkCode=xm2&ascsubtag=AgEAAAAAAAAAAOxTAAAAADL8AZ8AAAAAWmuDog

http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Michelangelo-Two-Bike-Gravity-Stand/dp/B000ACAM38/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1413161565&sr=8-3&keywords=home+bicycle+stand <-- Something like this? I'm not endorsing that specific product as I've never tried it, but something along those lines sounds like what you are looking for.

http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Michelangelo-Two-Bike-Gravity-Storage/dp/B000ACAM38/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454038422&sr=8-1&keywords=bike+rack+indoor

This is what I use in my apartment. Then maybe something similar to this to use on the ladies frame

I've got a Delta Michelangelo in my living room. It freed up a nice chunk of space.

Might not be what you're looking for, but I picked this up a few weeks ago for my tiny ass apartment:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ACAM38?refRID=88RNXSJX6RYHYV3X899P&ref_=pd_ybh_a_69

I have two bikes on and it gets them off the floor and frees up a lot of space. Worked out well for me so far.

That looks pretty cool. For those who need a two-bike stand, I just installed this guy. It's not free-standing as it needs a wall to lean on, but as long as you're not drunkenly stumbling by it 24/7, it doesn't need to be bolted into anything. It does have a small safety strap for those drunkards out there. :)

I'm having the same issue; you may want to try one of these. I also avoid using Drano, as it's very toxic and never seems to work anyway.

How does nobody in this thread know about ZipIts?

http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Products-00412BL-Zip-It-Cleaning/dp/B000BO9204

Literally a $3 reusable, immediate non-chemical solution to the problem.

Is a no see um a fruit fly? I've never heard of the bug being called that, but at my last apartment we had a drain fly infestation which are teeny tiny little black flies that live in your...drains.

I got rid of them by doing a couple things:

1. clean the bathroom drain, use a zip-it and then fill with baking soda followed by vinegar.
   
2. Clean your garbage disposal if you have one, fill it with ice to the sink and then run it, this will dislodge any food sludge that the flies breed in, follow with baking soda and vinegar.
   
3. I killed all the alive flies buzzing around my house by putting half a shot of rum into a SOLO cup then filling it half way with water and 2 drops of dish soap and mixing, the bugs are attracted to the liquor and die in the water. It was like a bug apocalypse inside that cup.

I think they're talking about this?

This one worked for me, it finds the nails in the stud.

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_MRGpDbF3WC35Z

Youtube will have plenty of examples. Make sure you find a stud to secure it to. This is my go to studfinder these days if you don't already have one: http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406045775&sr=8-1&keywords=stud+finder

I just screwed one of these eye hooks to the bottom side of one of the upper shelves, then ran a lag bolt through the eye and into the stud behind the bookshelf. I did this in a couple spots, it will depend on how wide your bookshelf is as to how many you might decide to do. This is a particularly large bookshelf in my case and it goes all the way up to the ceiling. A good long wood screw would likely suffice in most cases. Also my bookshelf has an open back, you may need to do something slightly different if yours has an enclosed back on it, but you get the general gist of it.

OMGOMGOMGOMGOMG. Best $10 I ever spent. I love this thing:

http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI

For the future, grab one of these stud finders. Run it along the wall and it will hang on the screw heads that were used to secure the drywall. Also works great in lathe and plaster houses. It's really just a strong magnet.

>Ridiculous Things that Money Can Buy!

Well there's a ringing endorsement.

Gimmick. Especially for someone who's halfway serious about renovations.

Just invest in one of these, and one of these for backup, and you'll be fine.

Rare earth magnets work great, they latch on to nails/screws. Find one, then slide it up to find another above, and down to find another below, and you can be sure you're on a stud.

I have one of these, and it's never led me astray:

http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1416347164&sr=1-1&keywords=stud+finder

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_atL1BbHQFE6PJ

Best ever. Doesn’t do electrical, or much else, but it works! It’ll just stick to a nail once it finds one.

For just finding studs, I find these to be better than any of the fancy ones: http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI

Here are the links without the referral tags:
Stud-finder and Fish Tape.

Try this type of stud finder.
https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI

i wouldn't worry about drywall coming off the studs.. not even sure how this would happen.

game plan is sound. go for it. the only possible issue (and it's minor) is you could screw into an existing drywall screw, but the odds of this are almost 0. worst case is you screw 1/2" away.

but if you want to be absolutely sure, amazon sells these "stud-finders" that are just rare-earth magnets with a small level bubble. it finds studs by locating the drywall screws... nice little tool.

Search magnetic stud finder. Run it over the wall to find a screw in the drywall where your stud should be.

https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=magnetic+stud+finder&qid=1571351577&sprefix=magnetic+stu&sr=8-3

If you have about $60 you could just buy them and have some tools that will serve you well as a renter and then you could help out your friends (and maybe get free beers or food off them).

I think you mean a stud finder.

https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/

It's less than ten bucks.

An adjustable wrench is about the same price.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-23002-6-Inch-Adjustable-Wrench/dp/B00FFUPS98/

For a cordless rechargeable you're talking about $40 for this one.

https://www.amazon.com/Cordless-Variable-Position-Masterworks-MW316/dp/B07CR1GPBQ/


I know you said borrow, but if you're renting it's good to have some basic tools for stuff like this and it's an investment to be honest. If you honestly can't get anyone to help, I already have the stud finder (metal detector), and wrench. It would be an excuse for me to finally get a drill. Let me know if nothing else works out.

I have only ever used the magnet based ones that are inexpensive. The magnets find the drywall nails which are only in the studs.

https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1504558503&sr=1-4&keywords=stud+finder

I love the CH Hanson stud finder...basically the same concept of the magnets, but incorporates a small level so you can make an accurate mark.
https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI

This works beautifully it has a light coating on the back so you don't leave marks on the walls when you slide it around. Also, sweep diagonally when using it.

Honestly a really good magnet, finds the nails that attach the lathe. I think I have this one

Command strips is definitely the way to go, but I find for some things the piece of it that holds the item is too big and fat for some things.

Nailing is an art. The first thing you would do is get a stud finder to make sure you're nailing something into a board and not just your wall and air. Your wall can hold most light things but if it's something like a heavy mirror or even a heavy picture frame you definitely need to find a stud. This stud finder is magnetic and will find the nail in the stud.

Then you would want to get your drill with a drill bit that is smaller than the nail is. Drill a hole into the wall just slightly downward, or just go straight it if you're not confident with your angles. Only drill in a couple inches. Do not try to drill or nail right where the stud finder found the nail, considering that there is already a nail there. Up and down the entire length of the wall where the stud finder sticks to is fair game to nail things, and there should be another stud every X feet or so (it depends).

Now you can hammer your nail in, just go easy with nice even soft strokes. And hold the hammer all the way up by the metal part for accuracy.

This all probably sounds tedious for this one project, but if you plan on hanging up more and more things it's a good idea to practice your household handiness. good luck!

It's this. https://www.amazon.com/Akro-Mils-10164-Plastic-Storage-Hardware/dp/B000LDH3JC/

I have something similar. I keep mine in paper coin envelopes and have silica gel packets in each drawer to keep moisture down.

Maybe something like a couple of these?
https://www.amazon.com/Akro-Mils-10164-Plastic-Storage-Hardware/dp/B000LDH3JC/ref=asc_df_B000LDH3JC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167133658256&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1117257087118984114&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011743&hvtargid=pla-195125441595&psc=1

I don't know what /u/grizzly_wintergreen had in mind, but I have something more like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Akro-Mils-10164-Plastic-Storage-Hardware/dp/B000LDH3JC

I would not go for anything open, as it can get dusty. As those are transparent drawers, you can see inside them without opening.

I have used these and they work great. They do have some different configurations for larger drawers and they are mountable. The bins are almost the same size as a standard 50 keyblank box from ilco.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Akro-Mils-10164-Plastic-Storage-Hardware/dp/B000LDH3JC/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3OC2FIAG2Q6E&keywords=akro+mills+storage+bins&qid=1556653666&s=gateway&sprefix=akro+m%2Ctools%2C144&sr=8-5

I bought one of these. I got the dividers so each drawer can hold two colors.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LDH3JC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon! http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LDH3JC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

these

and

these

> heard a loud popping sound.

From where? Could she localize it? From your breaker box, or elsewhere? Worst case situation, someone made a crappy splice somewhere in the circuit, and it gave out.

Assuming you have a meter... (if not, get one, as well as a plug-in outlet tester that shows proper wiring of hot, neutral & ground wires (when you have power,))

With the breaker OFF--or disconnected altogether if you have a suspect breaker...

• Test resistance between hot, neutral and ground. Any connection? There shouldn't be. If you see some current making it through, you've got a short.
  
  
• Test continuity between the hot slots from each outlet to the next. Do the same for neutral and ground. (ground prolly won't be the problem.) If continuity disappears between one outlet and the next, you've got a wiring fault in between somewhere. Test from the outlet holes and from terminals to find a screwed up outlet.
  
  
• Pull each outlet on that circuit and carefully examine every terminal connection and splice. Any burnt odors, melted insulation, or carbon charring on metal? If so, replace the bad bits.
  
  Sometimes breakers can trip without seeming to, eg. the switch doesn't move, but it blows internally. Test your breaker with a meter. With any luck, the circuit with all the dead outlets was wired in a straight series. Sometimes people wire branches, which makes finding a problem a bit trickier.
  
  Also... With the circuit breaker on, use your meter to test between all the blades of each outlet to see if you're getting any current anywhere. Hot & neutral should show 110-120 volts, and hot & ground should as well. People frequently mis-wire outlets. One of these testers will reveal improper wiring. (once you have power restored.)
  
  In new construction many states require Arc Fault Interrupter outlets in bedrooms. Got any of those in the circuit? Any GFI outlets in a bathroom or wet area?

It's not a terribly complicated concept. You're basically hacking together a 240v circuit. Here's a site that explains how to build your own clone.

Edit: You probably don't want to try to use something like this on a circuit that's already sketchy. For example, it isn't unheard-of for a previous homeowner to have ignorantly swapped hot and neutral on a circuit when they replaced a socket. A Quick220-like device will end up directly shorting such a circuit, and that's not good. In fact it's "burst into flames" bad if the breaker is also faulty. Get yourself a tester and know how to read the lights.

Well, it depends.

A cheater plug should have a tab at the bottom. That tab is supposed to be attached to the screw that you'd find in the center of the outlet, between the top and bottom receptacles.

On some of these older outlets, the receptacle box itself is grounded, so, screwing the cheater tab in properly will act as a ground for your cheater plug. The question is, are your outlet boxes grounded? They might or might not be. Only way to be sure would be to use an outlet tester after it's installed.

This of course also means you're going to need to cut off power at the breaker box while your'e screwing around with the outlets, to avoid electrocuting yourself. And if you're not comfortable with messing around with outlets, don't risk it.

These are $4 and idiot proof. I honestly wouldn't know how to check ground/neutral with a multi-meter.

Edit: Splurge on the $7 tester with a GFCI test, even if you're not replacing your bathroom receptacle you can double check it works.

Buy one of these and plug it in. It'll let you know if the receptacle is wired wrong. They can be had at nearly any home improvement store as well

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_WPpxwb3N4BPEH

Buy one of these

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RUL2UU/ref=pd_aw_fbt_328_img_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0CV79NQW6DYC13JCVQF3

Test all of them.

it will not tell you when you need an outlet replaced. It will only show you if the outlet is wired correctly or incorrectly. Make sure that when you push your GFCI back into the box that no bare copper is touching bare copper on the neutral/white conductor in the box. Also make sure that the conductors are tight in the terminal screws of your GFCI. You probably need to replace your GFCI with a new one if none of the previous suggestions work. Make sure that you turn the power off to the receptacle prior to removing it from the outlet box & working on the device

I'm a Jr. Sysadmin / tech support person where I work and this is what I use. The skeletool is pretty handy just to carry around on a daily basis. The ifixit toolkit has bits that helped me work on all sorts of stuff including Apple products. Hell, I even found a bit to tighten a screw on my office chair. The magnetic bowl is definitely worth it if your company pays for it! :)

Leatherman Skeletool +
ifixit tool kit + Magnet bowl

My friend this tool can be bought @ amazon for $41 brand new. https://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-Skeletool-Multi-Tool-Stainless-Steel/dp/B000XU9NXW

I am not sure where you keep getting the prices from! You will need to adjust it down to atleast this price. Ideally a little under.

Really nice multitools they are around $30-40, it's kind of the perfect gift. Try the Leatherman skeletool

For EDC, consider a Skeletool for your next purchase. Honestly it's one of my most used tools, and I love it. I have the CX version which looks slightly cooler and has slightly better steel, but the normal version is still awesome (aparently they jumped in price on amazon though...).

Leatherman Skeletool is a great item, which you should be able to get in that range. I got the upgraded Skeletool CX for under that from r/knife_swap.

If you want smaller try the Leatherman Style or Gerber Dime . The Style comes with scissor main tool or pliers.

Full size I’d suggest the Leatherman Wingman .

My two most used items I got off amazon.

Kingston Datatraveler: The most solidly built flash drive I've been able to find for the money so far. They have a 3.0 version now but it looks like the key chain is made out of plastic.

Leatherman Skeletool: Good multitool that is versatile without being cumbersome.

I purchased the Leatherman Skeletool for my groomsmen. In retrospect, I'm not sure if they all use them since some of them live out of town, but I bought myself the Leatherman Skeletool CX and carry it daily. I think it makes a great pocketknife replacement since it's small, and having the added tools is very handy. I did have the pliers break on me, but Leatherman replaced the entire unit through their lifetime warranty. Fill out a form and send it in; I didn't have to provide proof of purchase.

If you go the Zippo route, it might be nice to have them engraved with the groomsmen's name and a short note. My wife did something similar for me as part of gift one year.

I think a Leatherman is a good pick, and I'd get the same thing for everyone. A personalized item for each person is nice too (i.e. each person gets something completely different), but that makes the selection process longer. So it depends on how much work you want to put into it.

Wife got me a leatherman Skeletool with a carabiner clip a few years ago. I wear it every single day on my belt loop. Best multi-tool I have ever owned and it's been my go to gitf for secret Santa for years.

https://www.amazon.com/LEATHERMAN-Skeletool-Lightweight-Multitool-Stainless/dp/B000XU9NXW/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=skeletool&qid=1574435589&sr=8-4

There is a zigbee controller that works with the hue hub. I have it and it works great, though it is difficult to connect the wires to it

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1503796346&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Zigbee+controller

The easiest way is to get a GE Fan Controller and a compatible hub, such as SmartThings, Wink, or Vera.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Control-Z-Wave-12730-Amazon/dp/B00PYMGVVQ

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-VRF01-1LZ-Capable-Control-Almond/dp/B001HT4M48

Building off of /u/Terrancelee

They are called Fan speed controls

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Control-Z-Wave-12730-Amazon/dp/B00PYMGVVQ

For your fan, take a look at this. It allows you to control the speed of the fan without having to click the chain. Leave the fan on high and let the switch work its magic. I love the one I have in my living room.

[GE 12730 Z-Wave Smart Fan Control] (http://amzn.com/B00PYMGVVQ) is what I installed. The picture doesn't show it but there are are a set of 3 LEDs on the vertical plastic strip that show the speed setting selected. I must have dreamed that.

Neat!

I like this one

RovyVon Aurora Luminous Body, 550 Lumens Outdoor Mini EDC Rechargeable High Bright Multi-Functional Flashlight, with Reading Light and Red Warning Light, Idea as a Gift https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F5H3CFH

Kershaw Skyline is an affordable option.

Kershaw Skyline

Seconded. I just retired my M16 combo tanto because the handle is uncomfortable, boxy, and thick; and the blade angles are weird and very hard to sharpen well. For $35, I recommend the Kershaw Skyline (the same length as the M16, here it is in orange) or Scallion. I haven't had a Tenacious, and it seems large for my tastes, but for Spyderco a Dragonfly ($45) is next on my list.

If you go up to $30-40 you can find a lot of great american made knives in that range like a Kershaw Skyline ($35), Salvo ($30), or Buck 110 Paperstone ($30) Classic ($35), Vantage Avid ($34)
BTW, a good pocket clip shouldn't be uncomfortable in your hand. None of the pocket knives I've owned have dug into my hand at all. The Buck is a nice option if you don't want a clip though.

The SOG Flash 1 is spring assisted. It is a kickass blade and extremely lightweight. Around $35.


Then there is the Benchmade Emissary 470. Just a brilliant, brilliant blade. Practically sexy. $160-ish though, so I'll never have one in my pocket.



I just did a huge amount of research and decided against the spring assist. I like the super fast deployment, a lot; however, I found that many knives deploy just as fast because they are made so damn well. I just picked up the Kershaw Skyline 1760 for $35 and it is awesome. Spring assists have more parts to break, and more parts mean higher manufacturing costs.


Notable mention, the Kershaw Chill for about $16 most places.


Sorry for the amazon links, they are just easy to find. Also, I am new to this game so wait for some constructive criticism from more experienced users about my recommendations. And finally check some youtube reviews, I trust nutnfancy's reviews all day.

Just to throw another idea out there: Kershaw Skyline. It's not spring assisted, but it's bound to be more reliable, and it's right around your price range. Made in America, too.

http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Skyline-Knife-Textured-Handle/dp/B001CZBDF8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367987908&sr=8-1&keywords=kershaw+skyline

Put nothing in the stocking. Only put things in molle attached pockets. Mags, ammo, and a decent knife could easily get you to $150.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CZBDF8/

I bought this recently and really like it.

Get an outlet tester. Use it on every receptacle affected by the work including those in other parts of the house that might be on the circuits directly affected.

Get a multimeter. Use the AC testing function on the part that shocked you. Connect the red wire to the right most socket on the meter and put the probe and where you touched that shocked you. Put the black wire in the center socket on the meter and put the probe in the ground pin of a nearby receptacle. If you get any constant AC voltage over 1V, you have an issue with the power supply within the dryer (most likely).

Also use the multimeter on your outlet the dryer is fed from. You should put the black probe in the ground, and the red in each of the three (or two if your dryer is older) other holes in that receptacle. You should get two of them that measure 120V AC, and one that measures 0 AC and less than 1 V DC. Then measure from one hot to the other and just confirm you get 240V AC. If you get these values and you saw a voltage when testing the inside of the dryer, the dryer is the issue. Anything else means the wiring is borked.

The $20 you spend on these will be less than 1/3 of the cost of hiring an electrician to come out and even think about the issue.

It could also be static buildup inside the dryer caused by a loose or severed grounding strap inside. Try to connect a wire from the inside to the carpet/floor in your home with an insulated wire if all of the above comes back normal - don't try this first in case there is an AC voltage issue...

Hi. There's a couple things you can do to reduce RFI. Like you said, you can use a shielded cable. It would help if you can connect both ends to ground -- but make sure your electrical mains entrance ground is correct and up to code. You should have a ground rod right below the entrance, and it should be connected to your panel. All lines should be grounded lines, and you should have 3-prong outlets for all circuits. Get an outlet tester to be sure all sockets are wired correctly.

Another thing you can do is add ferrites on all wires going into and out of the HVAC units (power, data, everything). These act as RF filters.

Now bluetooth and microwave ovens use the same frequency band (2.4 GHz). Its not unusual for some low level RF energy to leak out of microwave ovens, and overpower a low-power data connection like bluetooth. But if its more than a low-power leak it may indicate a faulty oven, or a bad ground.

Its possible you have a nearby intermittent transmitter that is affecting things. It could be an airport thing, or maybe a two-way radio like for police or fire, or maybe a neighbor with a CB radio or ham radio. If this is a licensed user and they have a correctly engineered installation, its up to your devices to accept interference. Proper grounding and filtering will help though.

I hope this gives you someplace to start. Good luck.

If you are curious about outlets and want to safely check them to see if they are set up properly, buy one of these or an equivalent: https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-3-Wire-Receptacle-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA

Should be available at most hardware stores also. Not sure if they have these for other non american outlet types

That's the cheapo version; spend the extra couple bucks and get the GE model which will last forever.

Are you properly grounding the amp and is your house properly grounded?

You can get something like this on amazon for pretty cheap to test your outlets.

*pout* That kit has now officially dropped in price about 60% since I purchased mine just under two years ago. :-(

It's a freakin' awesome soldering station though!

Next on my list is the FR-300 or -301 desoldering gun. For now though, I'll continue to use my Engineer SS-02.

+1 for this.

https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1485890789&sr=1-1&keywords=Engineer+SS02

Do not get a cheap radioshack soldering iron. Get a cheap Chinese soldering iron off amazon. Something with a digital temp gauge. I’ll edit this comment with a link to the one I have later. Their are a couple different methods to this job. Some people get little angled clippers and clip the 4 legs off of the tact switch and then heat up the solder and pull out the legs this method is easy but you risk cutting into the board. The other method is to properly use a solder sucker / solder wick and desolder the old switches. Do not hold the soldering iron to this board for too long you will pull traces. Believe me I did it my first time. Soldering is not that difficult but with everything the more you practice the better you become. I think some early mistakes are using too much solder, you really don’t need a lot.


My soldering set up: Soldering iron

better solder tip cleaner

better solder sucker

better solder (reccomended)

Also if you’re soldering leaded solder indoors maybe think about your health and what you’re inhaling.
air filter

Last words: everything in that kit will get you by just fine. Personally I think the solder it comes with is garbage. I hate the cheap solder suckers and I use them so often I bought that other one. Keep your iron tips clean. This means basically run some solder on the tip and dunk it in that gold wire mesh often. If your tip is getting dark it’s getting too hot and will have a harder time flowing solder. Keep it nice and shiny.

Easier and probably cheaper to replace the board. You can get a [Masterkeys Pro L RGB with blues for $120] (https://www.amazon.com/MasterKeys-Mechanical-Keyboard-Intelligent-Switches/dp/B01D3BDNF6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486493487&sr=8-1&keywords=masterkeys%2Bpro%2Bl&th=1) or the Pro S TKL for $100.

Your other option is to buy a soldering iron, a desoldering pump, some switches to replace your browns, pray to whatever deity you believe in so that you don't damage the pcb when you remove the old switches. You'd also need to desolder the LEDs and resolder them once you have replaced the switches. IF your soldering skills aren't up to snuff you can damage the board beyond repair.

On the cheap ones, I do remove the iron before activating the suction. If you have a lot of desoldering to do, this one doesn’t require you to remove the tip and does a much better job.
Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MJMXD4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MJMXD4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this is the best one I've ever owned.

It really sucks.

For sure. I've made my fair share of desoldering mistakes and they aren't fun. First tip, find a tool you like, some swear by wick, and some use desoldering irons, for me it was simply this desoldering pumpwhich features a silicone tip that makes it easier to create a seal. Second, don't leave the iron on the PCB for too long. Three seconds should do it. If its doesn't, take it off, find another angle, and put it down again. Leaving it on for much longer risks damaging the PCB. Third, make sure you get ALL the solder off the pin, if it looks like you got 90% save for a tiny bit touching the edge, DO NOT try to forcibly remove the switch, you risk yanking out the small metal ringlet within each hole of the PCB. Instead, reapply some solder and try sucking it up again. When a switch is properly desoldered, it should pop right out when you squeeze in the little clips on the top and bottom of the switch. Never apply tremendous force when trying to remove a switch (this usually means you haven't fully desoldered).
And finally, if you do make a mistake, it's not the end of the world. A broken switch is easy enough to replace and a damaged PCB is possible to repair just by running a wire (which means soldering a connection between the two points that were disconnected by the damage).

How about if you use a smart switch (https://www.amazon.com/GE-12722-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2) ? You can use as many regular bulbs you want, and to configure you would be configuring only 1 device (the switch) instead of each bulb

A couple of simple Zwave switches will fit there no problem. I've been slowing replacing all the
switches in my house with them

FYI, the paddle-style GE/Jasco binary switches also have an air-gap. So, pulling it out is another way to reset the switch and is probably easier than flipping a breaker.

I'm still not sure why you would just replace the existing light switches with Z-Wave smart switches. You would be able to use whatever bulbs you wanted. Any time a bulb went bad you wouldn't have to spring for $30-$50 for a single bulb.

And if the owner didn't like the smart lighting, you could leave in the existing switches, or worst case replacement them with dumb switches just as you planned.

Maybe I'm not understanding something. Could you help explain why you went with all of the bulbs over the switches? I'm not seeing any advantage in doing so.

z-wave.

You could do it one of a couple of ways. Both ways would have you installing a z-wave light switch to replace your existing one, soemething like

http://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Switch/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1414373746&sr=1-1&keywords=z-wave+light+switch
Then you could either get a lamp modules for the lights, like this

http://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0013V6S0Q

but that would add a lot of bulk to your setup, so instead i would probably look at replacing your power outlet iwth a zwave outlet like

http://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Receptacle/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1414373786&sr=1-1&keywords=z-wave+outlet

So once you pair the switch and the outlet, when you pressed the switch it would not only power on your existing lights, but also turn on/off the top receptacle of the outlet as well

I have one 4-way setup in my house; I used the GE zwave light switch and 2 add-on switches. One main switch and then two add-on switches will run you less than $100.

Might I ask what is keeping you from using an entire switch replacement? Not sure what country your in, but there are plenty available on Amazon.

Installation isn't hard per say, but if you don't feel comfortable its certainly not worth electrocuting yourself or having a fire hazard. It mostly involves cutting power off at the breaker, confirming power is off at the switch, removing the 3 wires from the existing switch and moving them over to their appropriate location. Now, many z-wave switches require a neutral wire, depending on the age of your residence this may or may not be an issue. If you do have a neutral wire it won't be connected to the existing switch, you will likely have to unbundle it from the back of the receptacle box.

This is a on/off zwave switch, it sounds like you are using phillips hue bulbs in the receptacles. In this case you don't want a dimmer, the dimming is done internally on the bulbs circuitry
http://www.amazon.com/GE12722-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1454264957&sr=8-2&keywords=z+wave+switch



This is a dimmer zwave switch, this would be good for incandescent bulbs, some dimmable cfl and LED bulbs will work but you will likely need to look at compatibility. Some dimmable cfl/led don't play well with certain switches, you might get inconsistent dimming performance, buzzing or flickering as most common side effects of a poorly matched bulb.
http://www.amazon.com/2gig-WD500Z-1-Z-Wave-Dimmer-White/dp/B00E1OVFAK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1454264957&sr=8-4&keywords=z+wave+switch


Edit: Adding a few Amazon links for example w/ explaination

GE's toggle-style switches (12727, switch; 12728, add-on switch; 12729, dimmer) will fit into an existing toggle setup, but they don't stay up and down like a regular toggle switch does. They're always pointing straight out in the middle and you press them up or down to turn the light on and off (or hold the dimmer up or down to brighten and dim, respectively). They return to their center position as soon as you let go.

I like the decora series a little better (12722, switch; 12723, add-on switch; 12724, dimmer). They have a little LED on them that indicates the current status of the light. The toggle-style switches don't have any indication of whether they're on or off, which is kind of a bummer for outside lights.

One thing to be aware of for the add-on switches: they require a traveler wire, but can only be paired with GE primary switches. The traveler doesn't carry full line voltage; it's just used for the add-on switch to signal the primary when the add-on's been pressed.

There are no SmartThings branded switches. SmartThings is a central hub that is capable of controlling a vast array of third-party smart home devices. When you link it with Google Home, voice commands to the Home will be sent to the SmartThings hub, which will then trigger the smart home device based on how you set it up in the SmartThings app.

For example, you have a smart light switch installed in your kitchen that is labeled "Kitchen Lights" in the SmartThings app. When you say "Hey Google, turn off Kitchen Lights" the SmartThings hub will trigger the smart light switch to the "off" position. No need for smart bulbs, just swap out your current "dumb" light switch for a smart one and you'll be able to control your light fixture.

I personally have several GE 12722 Z-Wave Switches installed in my apartment, which are controlled by SmartThings and Google Home. The light fixtures have regular, run-of-the-mill LED bulbs in them. I issue voice commands like "Turn on/off Kitchen Lights" or "Turn on/off Bedroom Lights" and the switches activate near-instantly. Delay can be measured in milliseconds. Much better than the laggy IFTTT.

Check out the Works with SmartThings page to see the vast multitude of smart home devices that can be controlled by the hub.

How about one of these

Changed my life and get one of these too.

Christmas tree light remote..

It overpowers all steam VR updates fo’ever

Etekcity Wireless Remote Control Electrical Outlet Switch for Household Appliances, Wireless Remote Light Switch, White (Learning Code, 5Rx-2Tx) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_k2IFAbYV9CP4Q

I actually was looking for the information on the one i bought to post after I hit submit on my comment. [Etekcity Wireless Remote Control Electrical Outlet Switch for Household Appliances, White (Learning Code, 5Rx-2Tx)] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_FkNjxbPQZMPPN) P6OGMCD7 promotion code gets you $8.50 off right now, which gets it to $21.48 with free Prime shipping for five outlets and two remotes. You can actually do even better than interfacing with the remote, since the protocol is wrll documented at 433mhz, and you can just buy a couple dollar transmitter board and interface it to your arduino or RPi or whatever.

Exactly!
But honestly the small hangers they include are pretty good and running your light house up to a permanent place on the wall isn't a bad deal considering it gets rid of any space concerns.

But consider something like this as well - https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Household-Appliances-Unlimited-Connections/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1551114394&sr=8-6&keywords=remote+switch

So you can turn stuff on and off from one area and don't have to plug/unplug each lighthouse when you want to use or put away. Something like this lets you just control power remotely. I had AUKEY ones that apparently aren't sold anymore so I can't link them. There should be some better ones that are smaller in my opinion, but it made turning off the whir/whine sound of the lighthouses much easier than plugging/unplugging them over and over.

So you want the other lamps to turn on when you turn on the switched outlet?

The sarcastic answer is: extension cords.

Non-sarcastic, I'm not aware of any consumer RF product that detects when an outlet turns on and sends out a signal to other smart plugs to also turn on.

I think the closest thing you'll find at the budget you're talking about are these Etekcity wireless wall plugs. I would forget about the switched outlet, and just use command strips to stick the remotes at locations you like, so all the lamps can be controlled by the remotes.

All the lights are connected to my remote switch. https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQELHBS/

I've used https://www.amazon.ca/Etekcity-Programmable-Wireless-Control-Learning/dp/B00DQELHBS/ to do the same thing and they worked great. I also had some older ones from years ago that I got working too, although it turned out that they used 315MHz instead of 433MHz, so I got added a 315MHz transmitter and now I can control both groups from the same Pi.

These things are your best bet. Then you just need to control the remote using the arduino, and nothing on your end is exposed to line voltages. You'll be hard pressed to source the parts yourself and build something cheaper than what you can buy pre-made.

Home automation is fun as hell too. You can get some RF outlets and an RF Transmitter and Receiver and hook them up to your pi and then install Home Assistant to control it all from your phone.
This was just one quick tutorial I looked up that explains it pretty well. I've got the same thing on my setup. You can program command line switches into it, so anything you normally do from the command line you can program into Home Assistant as a button. Backups, file transfers, ssh commands, bash scripts, anything.

So I've got Tasker and when my phone connects to my home's wifi it will trigger the job in Tasker to start the CL switch in Home Assistant called "Home" and it runs a bash script to basically send the RF codes to turn on power strips for computer/ monitors, send a Wake On Lan (WOL) packet to turn on my computer, send an SSH command to an IR transmitter to turn on my AC, and send an RF signal to turn on the radio. AND, if you set up your own OpenVPN server at home you can log in remotely to your local network and turn on your RF outlets from anywhere. Telling you, you can get deep lol. If you ever need any help I'll do what I can.

I used this www.amazon.com/Flexible-Non-waterproof-Christmas-Decoration-Daylight/dp/B00HSF65MC the cool thing is that you can cut them and splice them together with wires to have them spread out over shelves. There's also a wireless remote to turn them off or dim them for only a few bucks more.

Sure first here's the LED strips, Power Adapters, and Dimmer. Looks like they've gone up in price a bit since I did it but it's still not too bad. I didn't take any in progress pictures so I'll just have to describe how setup went. The LED strips come with a sticky back side so I just stuck that to the poles on the front side of the Detolf. I used 1 LED strip, 1 dimmer, and 1 power adapter per 2 Detolfs but you could also use 1 strip per Detolf. This will give you more even lighting, and the power adapter should still be able to handle powering 2 fine, you'd just need to also buy a connector for the 2 strips. After you've got the stuff its as simple as just taping on the stip in a |‾| running from the outside poles and across the top of the Detolf, running the power cord outside of it through the gap in the door, and the plugging in the dimmer.

I have seen people post about using these LED strips - they're pretty cheap. They also sell them bundled with the adaptor and remote.
https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Daylight-Non-waterproof-Lighting-Gardens/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1475090786&sr=8-6&keywords=led+light+strip

Thanks so much! I highly recommend these LED strips. They're paper thin so they bend easily at the corners of a detolf. You'll need this adapter for the power.

My only complaint about them is that they're a little too bright at first. You get used to them though! You can't beat this nice even white lighting and the ease of installation.

This should do it for you.

Michael's has coupons for one item at 50% off from time to time so I was able to get the cases for $30 each.

Here is the light strip that I got:
https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Non-waterproof-Christmas-Decoration-Daylight/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1500094562&sr=8-5&keywords=led+light+strip

This is enough to do both cases. For the power since I do not have them hung up where I would like them to be yet I just got a battery pack. This is the one that I am using now:

https://www.amazon.com/Octopak-2-s-Tm-Battery-Supply/dp/B00LH31OC2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1500094692&sr=8-3&keywords=led+light+strip+battery+pack

I then bought the a Y adapter so that I could power both strips at the same time.
https://www.amazon.com/ESUMIC-Power-Female-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00G6G5DJ0/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1500094769&sr=8-2-fkmr3&keywords=led+light+strip+battery+pack+splitter

I used LED tape found off Amazon...super cheap:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just used 22 gauge wire I got from Home Depot to solder the positive / negative to a 12v power supply. To turn the lights on and off, I just used a cheap limit switch:

https://www.amazon.com/URBESTAC-Momentary-Hinge-Roller-Switches/dp/B00MFRMFS6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536763141&sr=8-3&keywords=limit+switch

​

I'll try to take some pictures when I get home tonight.

I bought these after a suggestion from another person on this forum. I didn't think they would work, but WOW, it made a huge difference. Brightened my area unbelievably good. First link is the LED lights. Second link is the adapter to be able to plug it in.

I just wrapped mine around the inside of my window.

LE 16.4ft LED Flexible Strip Lights, 300 Units SMD 3528 LEDs, 12V DC Non-waterproof, Light Strips, LED ribbon, DIY Christmas Holiday Home Kitchen Car Bar Indoor Party Decoration (Daylight White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_r-dzybVRAW2Y5

LE Power Adapter, Transformers, Power Supply For LED Strip, Output 12V DC, 3A Max, 36 Watt Max, UL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ObezybTYECE37

LE 16.4ft LED Flexible Light Strip, 300 Units SMD 2835 LEDs, 12V DC Non-water... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_x_9znKzbQJP3HW3 via @amazon

Or if you want color changing lights...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BP4DUMU/ref=psdc_15704871_t2_B00HSF65MC

https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Non-waterproof-Christmas-Decoration-Daylight/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526496163&sr=8-3&keywords=led+strip+lights

get this!

youre also gonna need this

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformers-Supply-Output-Listed/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00DKSI0S8&pd_rd_r=G8HHS4XR6MNMHDCCSNZV&pd_rd_w=RgFLj&pd_rd_wg=qhiRw&psc=1&refRID=G8HHS4XR6MNMHDCCSNZV

LEDs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Power Brick: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DKSI0S8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can cut the LED strip and then re-solder them together. I used these wires for that: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QTCBZ4I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sure, I got it at IKEA - [this] (http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/60128562/) is the exact shelf. I bought the LED lights off of Amazon [here] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_?ie=UTF8&psc=1) (though you need to buy a power adapter, as well).

I have those lights. Here they are in a Michael's baseball bat display case, running on a rechargeable battery. Specifically this battery. They're surprisingly bright. That was just a test setup to get an idea of what the case would look like.

I've got a glow case that I started working on today. Seen here using these UV LEDs

T5s are pretty much the standard for growing carnivores indoors. I think you could get by with just one more tube and have a 2-bulb fixture. You could probably fit a 4-tube fixture within that 12.5" width, but that does become more costly.

You can get LED lights that look normal and not super weird. Here's some options for daylight-balanced bulbs. I also currently use LED stringlights like these in a small grow bucket.

It's really up to you. Also consider how much energy you want to use (how many watts) and how long you want to keep the lights running.

Whichever route you choose, I would also attach some foil or mylar to the sides of the terrarium to bounce the light back onto the plants. You can get by without super strong lights if you don't let it all spill out and keep it reflected back onto the plants.

Yes you can but you need to get an FLS-PP ballast so they can communicate with HUE. I am not sure how yours are hooked up but the 4 individual strips need to be connected to each other. You would get rid of your existing controller and power supply. The new FLS-PP ballast needs 12V run to it. You can use your current power supply if it is 12v but you would need to cut the end off it as it's directly wired to the new ballast. The only thing you would need to do is then hook the 12V-R-G-B from the RGB strip to the ballast. Should be about a 5-10 minute job. Once you hook the ballast up search for new devices in your HUE app and it will show up as 2 devices a color lamp and a white one. If you are using RGB strips then you can ignore the white lamp. If you are using RGBW stripes then you can use both.

Going this route would fully integrate you LED's with HUE. Having said that you would not be using the remote to control the loght anymore. You would be using the HUE App or Alexa if you want to use voice commands.


You can get one here : https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485270154&sr=8-1&keywords=fls-pp

They do exist but I'm not sure how popular a Hue blacklight would be.

You could create your own today if you really wanted. A simple UV light strip (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C2NQWIQ/) along with the DE FLS-PP controller (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/) should do the trick. You'd connect the UV strip to the white channel of the controller (ignoring RGB) and Hue would see your backlight as a white bulb.

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1441210947&sr=8-1&keywords=FLS+ballast&pebp=1441211138516&perid=1H3E632X1Y8FTWMWS38Z

You can control basically any lights with this

It's not CHEAP, but, cheap-er: This ballast plays well with the Hue hub (it speaks zigbee) and I've got it attached to two $12/ea rolls of LED strip from China:

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ

I have about 30 ft worth of LED strips on my porch with my hue system. I am using the FLS-PP Zigbee controller with IP67 rated LED strips. It is in a location that wont have any direct contact with water (on porch ceiling). I put some electrical tape around the connections to help water proof it a little more though.
So far 1.5 months and no issues yet.

As for the hue branded strips, I am not sure I would put those outside because.
1 - they are expensive. 30ft of strips and the FLS-PP controller cost about the same price as the starter Lightstrip plus kit. $90 roughly. So if it does die I am not out the $400-$500?? for a comparable Hue light strip plus with enough extensions
2 - the connections are not very waterproof on the hue brand. If they will see any contact with water they will corrode I think. I will just keep those on the back of my TVs for now.

Hot and cold

https://www.amazon.com/Luxe-Bidet-Neo-320-Non-Electric/dp/B00A0RX2UI/ref=pd_day0_hl_60_3/131-7905412-9457264?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00JG3NVG2&pd_rd_r=61f47991-3656-11e9-80dc-db96b6b7be1a&pd_rd_w=WdDmj&pd_rd_wg=s79mx&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=RN5C44S2NPYSTZW97SGQ&refRID=RN5C44S2NPYSTZW97SGQ&th=1

> including replumbing your bathroom(s)

Don't believe so, I think most hook right to the tank and do a gravity/water pressure feed. - http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RX2UI

This one appears to use cold water. No. Upgrade to the warm water bidet.
http://www.amazon.com/Bidet-Neo-320-Elite-Series/dp/B00A0RX2UI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417258351&sr=8-1&keywords=Warm+water+bidet

Like all the other rebranded models bought from the same manufacturer.

Same except with the hot water line.

I have had this one for a year or two and am happy with it. You should stop considering and just do it you won't regret it.

You could pay less for one without hot water, but cold water is pretty cold (especially in the morning). Cold water in the winter feels freezing. Cold water on your asshole in winter is a nightmare. An extra $25 for ass freezing protection is well worth the cost. There's an added bonus of your sink water being warm right away as well if you have a slower water heater like I do.

I think some people think bidets are "decadent" or "high-falutin." Or disreputable, since a bidet could be used to masturbate. Plus, if you go into a home improvement store you're more likely to see this, which takes up additional space in the bathroom, is probably cold to sit on--or do you straddle it? Looks damned uncomfortable! Or they hear about those multiple-thousand-dollar Japanese bidets, and think one would have to be crazy to spend that much vs. toilet paper and a little effort.

But I bought myself the predecessor of this bidet Not very expensive, doesn't take up much space, runs both hot and cold water. And it is superior to toilet paper in every way.

Forget the 120, step up to the 320. Hot/cold instead of just cold.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RX2UI/ref=emc_b_5_i

(At this price point I might have to pick one up. Didn't realize the hot/cold models had come down this much in price.)

I have this one

And this one

The second one is more expensive and honestly I like the first one (cheaper) one better. Plus the lever knob on the second one broke. The bidet works fine just has this plastic square you gotta push back instead of having that lever. If I had to buy again I'd just buy the cheaper one for all my bathrooms.

It'll be weird the first few days and you will need to use TP to dry off but after that you'll look down on all the plebs that don't have a clean bunghole.

So the ultimate splurge would be the toto neorest with elongated bowl. Alas, that’s too bougie for my budget I settle for the bidet attachment from amazon. This this super economical one is a greater starter bidet. The tushy brand is a little nicer option as well.

I installed 2 of these at home, they are great. No idea why USA is the only country I know without them.

https://www.amazon.com/Luxe-Bidet-Neo-320-Non-Electric/dp/B00A0RX2UI/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1503545437&sr=1-6&keywords=bidet

Warm water version!!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RX2UI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_u6gLzb57P1DYF

Here in America we've developed technology that attaches right to the bowel.

Luxe Bidet Neo 320 - Self Cleaning Dual Nozzle - Hot and Cold Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (blue and white) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RX2UI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_u-pywb93CG6C5

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A0RX2UI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I actually never bothered to hook up the cold water, as I didn't bother to clip the hose for the hot, so the water pretty much just comes out cold and gradually warms up. Install was easy, aside from the fact that my toilet crammed in a corner.

I have been thinking about getting a bidet. Is this the same model?

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00A0RX2UI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487299548&sr=1-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&dpPl=1&dpID=41KyuEGg5FL&ref=plSrch

Here, freak.

Maybe you were thinking of something like this. What's in the picture I linked in my OP is a standalone bidet.

You could up your budget a little and get the one I got. It also has a hot water hookup and it has a second nozzle, a "women's" nozzle.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A0RX2UI/

$60, This is my go-to funny yet functional birthday gift I've given a few friends. It does both hot/cold.

$36 cold water only version

Edit: My buddy sent me this SFW 13 second video of the $60 unit in action.

if not: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A0RX2UI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A0RX2UI

I personally use a hook ( http://www.gethook.io , $50 USD), which works as a wifi to rf bridge allowing you to use Alexa to control very cheap outlets like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQELHBS

It's not perfect, I do have to repeat myself occasionally, but it's tremendously more reliable than the wemo switches I have. Those etekcity outlets frequently have coupon codes that will make them a good bit cheaper, but if you only need to control 1-2 outlets, the initial cost of the hook may still make it not very cost effective.

If you can't use a sensing power strip, you can do what I did with my HS5s. Get one of those remote controlled outlet units like this: https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484561260&sr=8-3&keywords=Remote+control+outlet

Then attach your studio monitor power cables get to a power strip, and plug the power strip into that outlet. That way you can use the remote control to turn them on and off. Just leave the power switch on your monitors turned on.

Similar to what neuromancer_pl said: I have a little arduino-based remote that controls all of my lighting, TV, and A/C unit (obviously not anymore.. but I may extend it with a relay to work with my space heater).

For the lamp controls I use a 433 MHz transmitter to replace the remotes that came with these outlets.

For the TV and AC remote part I have two IR LEDs to replace each respective stock remote (used a IR receiver to discover which encoding to use for each).

Finally a HC05 bluetooth module that lets me talk to the arduino through an android app I made.

My mother is a retired nurse, and if you know anyone who worked in healthcare, they will tell you the last place they want is a nursing home. She would likely die within a few weeks, absolutely no exaggeration. So we have a nice wheelchair ramp into her home, plenty of rails in her walk-in shower, a nice seat and plenty of room to maneuver her walker. She has a push-button recliner and a handy remote control to turn on her bedroom lights and heater.

She is disabled, so I have to help her dress and cook for her and frequently pick up after her, but her mind is sharp and she takes care of her finances. It's just random things she needs help with, like her hearing and lack of dexterity makes it impossible to use automated phone menus, stuff like that. Every fall we buy cracked pecans that she opens to extract nutmeats, which helps her retain some range of movement in her hands.

I live with her now after years of rehabilitation following hospital screw-ups (some sent her to the ICU with organ failures due to hospital/facility incompetence). She has a much better quality of life and, again, both of us know she would be long dead if she were relegated to a nursing home.

The floor lights are just three fixtures from Home Depot with a PAR20 LED spotlight bulb. They are pretty cool to the touch, so I think they're ok. I may just upgrade the lighting with dimmable smart bulbs. For the patio, I'm using a 35 watt Grow Light from Amazon. It's temporarily hung from a hurricane shutter rail. All lighting is remote controlled with these.

It takes reading of water pH, EC, and temperature, as well as air temperature and humidity.

You can adjust how often the reading are taken. The shortest interval is 1 minute.

In the software interface, you can have set points. So for example, pH should be kept between 6.5-6.7. The system will automatically add up or down pH solution to keep that in balance.

Another example would be air temperature. You could say that the air temperature should be between 72-75F and it will turn on fans, air conditioners, or heaters to keep that at the correct value.

All external devices like heaters, fans, lights, etc. are controlled wirelessly from the Hydrobot using commonly found 433mhz wireless outlets like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQELHBS/

Yeah, internet control will cost you.

I've used these around the house with good results. Local remote control only--might work for you.

Another option to switch the lighthouses on and off is to get some remote controlled sockets - something like these.

Hi there! I have used these types of switches in my home for about a year now and have only had a good experience! However, I have also always been somewhat perplexed about the sheer number of these various branded and non-branded switches available on various sites, that all basically seem to be made of the the same components. This isn't something you really see very often here in the US, mainly due to patent laws. I'm thinking that might really be the reason these switches, and so many other electronic devices from China, exist in the overlapping way they do - I'm thinking it's very likely able to happen due to poorly enforced or non-existent patent laws. That's my main guess anyway... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

​

As for my experience with the setup and performance of these switches, I initially came across them out of the necessity of finding a wall switch that did not require a common neutral wire. My home was built in 1950 and half of the wiring in my home does not have a ground wire and most of the circuits are not wired with a common neutral line, which has been the norm/requirement here for most everyone likely since sometime in the 1980s. Unfortunately, most WiFi connected "smart" switches/devices all require a common neutral wire. These have been a lifesaver for me! I found my switches on Amazon and have only purchased "Funry" and "Livolo" branded switches, the versions that work via RF signal. Originally, it seemed that was all they made (the RF kind), but as this IoT/home automation thing has really become such a big market noticed they started producing WiFi and Bluetooth switches, using the same housings and touch panels/exterior components.
Which leads me to my next thought - and I have nothing to base this premonition on, but I have a feeling / feel it can only be prudent to not assume that all of these switches, while appearing nearly identical on the outside, are of the same quality and same technologies on the inside. I have nothing to base this on, and most of these devices aren't certified by the various engineering certification groups (like UL here in the US) anyway and I'm sure some people would say to stay clear of them altogether, but inevitably having spent a lot of my budget on cheaper consumer electronic products made in China/other neighboring regions that are sold online, I've seen this to be the case. However, all I can speak to is the quality of the products from the two manufacturers I mentioned above and my experience has been positive. I mean, I felt they were at least well-made enough that I wasn't completely terrified to install them in my home. I've had no trouble with the switch mechanism itself, and the tempered glass panels do feel and look solid/of quality.

​

As for trying my best to help provide insight on your three bulleted needs laid out above - I do think it's possible for you to achieve each of those wants; however, I'd say my answer probably echos what I rambled on about above (lol), that the various functions and features can really be very different from one manufacturer to another on these switches, even though they may look the same, at least if you mean right out of the box. With a little bit of configuration (and sometimes a lot), you can connect basically anything to anything these days, one way or another. One problem with not going with a "name-brand" here is that you're also less-likely to get "name-brand" software/apps for the devices. But that may not matter. As I wrote above, the units I've purchased have all been RF-controlled models, so I had to buy a small hub/controller to work with RF. Prior to this Google Home/Alexa explosion, I'd already purchased tons of these wireless plugs/switches and had them connected to devices/lights all over my home, so buying a cheap RF hub and these affordable glass wall switches allowed me to turn what I already had into Google/Alexa-connected devices affordably, instead of having to start from scratch (just throwing that out there if you have anything similar in your setup). I imagine you're wanting just the straight WiFi switches? I can't give any feedback on the particular WiFi version of these switches, but I guess I can say if you find any on eBay from the two brands I mentioned, I'd feel OK about it for my home.

• the ability to turn them off and on through an app independently, but also as groups
  
  They likely come from the manufacturer with some junky/not so great, proprietary software/"app" that you'll have to download and use just to get the devices setup anyway, but if you can get them successfully connected to Google Home (or Alexa), then yes, you can turn them on and off independently and can also assign them to groups, for group control. There are dozens and dozens of apps/interfaces out there now to control IoT devices, so I'd have to say yes this is possible. Out of the box, using the manufacturer's app? I don't know... but yes, totally possible.
  
  
• Control them with Google Assistant independently and as groups
  
  My RF versions, yes. I imagine the WiFi version of these likely can be Google Assistant connected, one way or another, if they're not right out of the box. But I can't totally confirm this one.
  
  
• Have dimming control
  
  Now this question... based on my working knowledge of these and other similar low-end devices and how they operate and are built, it's quite possible you would not have dimming control with any variety of these switches. I think you'd really need to be certain to buy a model that clearly states it has dimming functionality. I don't believe the majority of these are designed for that - only for on and off. In fact, I have no dimming control on any WiFi or RF-controlled light switch in my home - only on WiFi bulbs I've purchased with dimming capabilities. It seems to me that dimming "smart" switches are only available from some of the more [recognized] name-brand manufacturers and their more expensive, proprietary lighting systems, pretty much all requiring some sort of proprietary hub to control them.

Not really. Those power strips are built as a unit and can't really be modified without basically starting over from scratch. You could use one of these to control your outlets, but I don't think they will all fit in one power strip.

Not sure if you mean a smart plug as meaning a plug which can keep track of things like how much power is consumed or if you just need an outlet which can be switched on and off.

If it is the later (just swtiching an outlet on and off) I've been pretty succesful with my project (so far) of using these Etekcity remote outlets which routinely go on sale @ Amazon.com : http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-ZAP-5LX-Auto-Programmable-Function/dp/B00DQELHBS

Mixed with the knowledge gained from this article: http://www.msilverman.me/2014/01/interfacing-with-remote-controlled-outlets/ it is pretty simple, safe and most importantly to me: cheap to interface the outlets to a wifi enabled device.

Definitely not plug and play by any means but there is no mains voltages to have to worry about fooling around with and if you get your ducks lined up outlets can be very very cheap compared to outlets which come with WiFi connectivity which seem to go from $30/piece to almost a hundred bucks a pop.

EDIT: for a more out of the box solution you might check out Connor Wolf's video here : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjry28Ym7kI where he fiddles with a outlet that is capable of measuring power consumption... If I remember he does do a little work on the software side of things so that he doesn't have to use the smartphone app provided with the outlet.

Mine are on the celling but with wireless sockets. Make shure you don't move them while switching the modes or you'll have to recalibrate.

THESE ARE AN ABSOLUTE GAME CHANGER

Hook these up to a bunch of lamps. Turn them on right when your alarm goes off. Also useful for getting sleepy and really wishing that light was off.

I did the same except with these, slightly better per outlet cost but I use the other 4 around my house. If you just want them for lighthouses might as well only get two.

They provide enough light but aren't super bright, I do have the option of putting another strip across (I only used half) to make it brighter but 1 should be enough. You can't beat the price: LEDs and Power Source . I originally was going to hold them up by zip ties, but the backing is sticky enough to stay on the wire shelf. I'm not sure how well it will stand up in the future but for now it's great.

Depending on your budget, I just stuck LED strips around an existing mirror because the lighted mirrors were way too pricey for me. I bought something like this with a power adapter and stuck it on (it has adhesive on the back). Super easy, and should be <$20.

Amazon! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MwYtxbEYBEARM

That's a nice cabinet. Please don't blow it up with IEDs.

Jokes aside, I often see/hear people recommend these led strips, though not necessarily that particular brand. I've bought colored lights from http://lighthouseleds.com/, but I can't tell you how long they'd last I haven't used them for more than a few months.

I would suggest using a purpose built LED strip. These things are great, you can cut them to any length and they even make waterproof versions. I don't know what voltage the RPi outputs but I believe they even make 5v versions that can be run directly from an Arduino/probably anything outputting a digital signal.

If you're set on using the LEDs you have, you can use an online calculator to figure out exactly what resistors you'll need. It shouldn't be much more complicated than the strips, you'll just have to deal with making some sort of mount/enclosure instead of just sticking them on.

If by 'control' you mean you want to dim them, look into pulse width modulation. The second strip I linked is RGB which you can fairly easily control from an Arduino/probably RPi, don't know the specifics though. Hope that helped, if you have any specific questions let us know.

I am curious why these need to be automated... why not just have a switch? I'd just buy a long strip of LED lights and wire it all up myself. Then if I wanted to automate them I'd plug it all into a smart plug. You will need to drill some holes in the back of the cabinet. maybe do two strips under each shelf.

​

I'd use something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Kitchen-Christmas-Non-waterproof-Daylight/dp/B00HSF65MC

Does your vanity have a built in mirror? If not, Amazon Prime has lots of mirrors with LED lights already on them. They range from like $20+ and all have pretty good reviews!
I've been considering this one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B9QUDZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mlHOybKHX2WDJ
($29.99)

It is a little more than I wanted to spend but I'm starting my vanity from scratch so I'm gonna need to buy a mirror and lights anyway, this seemed like the best deal in that sense.

But like someone else said, if you already have a mirror these strips are pretty cheap! Plus they're a lot more space-efficient than a lamp!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7qHOybK6DP04J
($7.99)

Led strips from Amazon, similar to these.

Not that I have seen. This strip pulls 1.5 amps. I’m not sure what the conductor size on the pcb’s is, but 22ga seems to be common for the extension pieces. I would imagine the pcb traces are smaller.

22ga wire has a an 7 amp rating. Stepping down to 23ga drops to 4.7a. And 3.5a for 24ga.

You can run all of the strips off of a single power supply if you run, say, an 18 gauge power supply wire in parallel with the strips and tap the power for each section directly off of it rather than chaining the strips.

LE 16.4ft LED Flexible Light Strip, 300 Units SMD 2835 LEDs, 12V DC Non-waterproof, Light Strips, LED ribbon, DIY Christmas Holiday Home Kitchen Car B https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_2SymgZC3bfdjW

This is the better set! More length, more lights, and better stability! Just have to buy the power adapter!

i got a cheap vanity on craigslist for $40, painted it matte black, and added these led strips to them!
here's a pic of my setup. sorry its so blurry, the lights are so bright my phone cant focus very well

This should be what you need

https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Kitchen-Christmas-Non-waterproof-Daylight/dp/B00HSF65MC

https://www.amazon.com/Freshinsoft-12V-Power-Supply-Transformers/dp/B075NZYZVT

I just did under (and in) cabinet lighting with these. I soldered and shrink wrapped all the connections, and put in motion sensors for the in-cabinet ones. The whole project was < $100.

• https://smile.amazon.com/Flexible-Non-waterproof-Christmas-Decoration-Daylight/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1503154898&sr=8-5&keywords=led+strip+lights
  
• https://smile.amazon.com/RGBZONE-Infrared-Motion-Sensor-Automatic/dp/B01E3NFOIW/ref=sr_1_17?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1503155025&sr=1-17&keywords=motion+sensor

I should add that Purigen is stuffed on top of the filter canister if anyone is attempting to replicate the result.

Yep just a little LED strip behind the back of the tank:
https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Non-waterproof-Christmas-Decoration-Daylight/dp/B00HSF65MC

Aha I forgot to share when I copied it. This is the exact strip I got, remote is separate and located further down the page, I believe.
amazon

I did some photography for a mall store display - we output transparencies and the designer got white plexiglass and clear, and clamped the film between them with c-clamps and hung wires to the clamps. But you could make a sandwich of white and clear plex, and bolt or rivet it together and mount it in front of a light box.

You could also use flexible LED strips as the light source - my understanding is you can cut them and join the wires at the end to make custom sizes or panels.

Here's everything I purchased:

• LED Lights. I needed two strips for my application
  
  
• Power Supply
  
  
• Motion Sensor. I opted for a motion sensor vs. a door sensor because we have a bad habit of leaving the pantry door open and I didn't want the lights to be on all the time. I also bought Velcro tape to adhere the lights to the wall. The LED lights come with a sticky back, but they kept falling off. Shoot me a PM if you have additional questions and good luck!

I bought a 12 V LED strip, like this from Amazon. I wired two equal-length strips in series, so that each strip sees 12 V. I then wired that to the PSU, so that whenever the printer is on, the LEDs are on. It works great!

This: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

With this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00DKSI0S8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Canadian links, but they have them in other countries.

Very simple to setup - I just put it right next to the rods in the Detolf and went up and around.

Update on the lighting~ I finally got them shipped to me ugh

I ended up using these lights in a figure 8 pattern around the inside of the box (like this). The back is 3M peel and stick adhesive, so it was pretty straight forward as far as attachment. I taped the lights down originally to see if the shape would provide the lighting I wanted and I recommend this. Once the backing was off, the lights were pretty permanent, so this way I could see what they looked like lit up.

I used a piece of white tissue paper to diffuse the light some too, so it would look more evenly lit across the night sky. Maybe colored tissue paper could add some interesting color if someone was looking to do that haha. Distance also helps diffuse the light some too, but I didn't have that much to spare so I stuck with the tissue paper.

I also cut a hole in the back of the box with my exacto knife which was tedious but it worked (a drill would have been faster for sure).

I had two rolls of these left over from a previous project:

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00HSF65MC/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1452833784&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=led+strip&dpPl=1&dpID=51cgI-s9T9L&ref=plSrch

Had to solder them together. Lights come on with a switch like this on the door:

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00O9YV1E2/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?qid=1452833874&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=magnetic+reed+switch

LOL awesome. Did you know that you can diy your own light strips? I got a little carried away when i discovered that ;)

I plan on doing this or something similar to this in the future to do permanent Christmas lights on my house. I don't have all of the stuff picked out yet but I do plan on using this ballast to power the LED strips. The ballast is Hue compatible. I don't think it is waterproof but you could maybe stick it in a waterproof box. Ballast: https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ

To be honest at this point it sounds like you’d be better off buying something other than Hue.

You could buy generic 5050 RGBW strips which you could cut and link as you wished from eBay for a fraction of the price of Hue strips.

Add a power supply and a zigbee controller (I have this one: Wireless electronic ballast FLS-PP lp with Power PWM interface for RGBW and RGB lights (12/24V LED/LED stripes), ZigBee certified product https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_S4v4Ab9FKRZGS) and you’re sorted.

Edit: The new Ikea led driver could be an option as well, don’t know much about it though.

So am I correct in assuming that instead of the 6ft Phillips Hue strip - I can get these two things and have the equivalent of a 30ft strip that still works with the Hue Bridge?

https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Waterproof-Flexible-600leds-Changing/dp/B00KCHRKD6

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ

Link: https://smile.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ

I used a regular led strip (2 actually, 32 feet) with this ballast, works with hue beautifully.

http://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1462405659&sr=8-17-spons&keywords=Ip+ballast&psc=1

OP Delivers and sorry for the delay. Thanks to /u/maxwellsearcy for reminding me!

• Dresden electronic ballast (Zigbee)
  
• 50/50 4 Conductor Light Strip Connectors
  
• Phillips Hue Dimmer Switch
  
• Supernight 50/50 24V lights
  
  Now, cut the plugs off one side of the lights and off the power supply. Match the wires up on the Dresden ballast with RGB+ on the LEDs. Carefully strip away the outer shielding on the power supply cord and then strip the tiny wires on the inside of the power supply wire. Put those into the power screw points on the Dresden. Plug it in and test. It should come on a solid color.
  
  Now that you have it working, go into your Hue app and scan for new lights. You will see 2 lights pop up for every Dresden ballast you configure. Once it's done scanning, click them in the app and make sure they flash. One of them will NOT flash and you can safely delete that one.
  
  That's it!

It's this thing:
https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ

Basically you plug electricity and strip lights into it and it shows up as one or two lights on the hue app.

You want the Wireless electronic ballast FLS-PP lp.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/

And these LED strips look good, though I haven't tried them, and they are a bit more expensive.
https://www.amazon.com/BTF-LIGHTING-Individually-Addressable-Flexible-Waterproof/dp/B01N2PC9KK

Though really any RGB or RGBW led strip should work with that ballast.

Sorry for the delayed response, I've been on vacation.

What I ended up doing was purchasing one of these https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ and planned on only using it with smartthing hub, but found the flaky connection a problem and attempted to add it to a phillips hue hub...and it worked!!

Note to reset the ballast you unplug and re-plug the device 5 times.

Overall installation is relatively straight forward.

1. Just cut and strip wires closest to the connector to the IR side of the led strip (usually closest to the connector between the strip and IR controller).
   
2. Then plug corresponding colors into the ballast.
   
3. Strip connector for the IR power and plug in respectively
   
4. Plug in, open hue app, find new light, if no light found reset ballast
   
   Second question: No you do not need a hue bulb, but you do need a hue hub

I see you mentioning Hue strips and how much they cost. Although I haven't gotten to try it for myself yet, I hear you can use generic RGB lightstrips along with an FLS-PP to get cheaper lightstrips that are still compatible with the Hue bridge.