(Part 2) Best tools & home improvement according to redditors

Jump to the top 20

We found 100,714 Reddit comments discussing the best tools & home improvement. We ranked the 37,228 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Wall painting supplies
Lighting accessories & strips
Electrical equipment
Hardware products
Building supplies
Measuring & layout products
Safety & security products
Kitchen & bath fixtures
Home appliances
Home storage & organization products
Drain cleaners & pumps
Power & hand tools

Top Reddit comments about Tools & Home Improvement:

u/MrDorkESQ · 405 pointsr/whatisthisthing
u/RXrenesis8 · 389 pointsr/wheredidthesodago

What is your solution for the shower hair? I've just been draino blasting it when it gets clogged.

Edit: Wow I have a lot of replies!

Here are the top suggestions:

  1. Take a coat hangar and bend it into a hook, then jimmy-jam that sucker down the pipe and pull out the hair debacle.

  2. Similar to a coat hangar is this little spiky dildo that goes in easy but comes out like a horny duck. It promises to fuck the hair right out of the drain and is $2-4 online or at your local hardware store.

  3. Never let the offending hair get down the drain in the first place; brush it out first, stick it to the wall, or use a handy drain prophylactic. (again, online or at your local fix-it store)

  4. Various formulations of DIY draino, most common being bleach and boiling water. (Hot water will denature some proteins all on its own)
u/Chelle422 · 315 pointsr/whatisthisthing

You might want to invest in one of these!

Addalock - (1 Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00186URTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_12TKBbV17C946

Even if someone manages to pick your lock, this will stop them from actually being able to open your door - only if someone is home though, it can't be used if no one is inside to place it. I know of at least one story where it prevented a woman's rape.

u/Brave_little_pew_pew · 227 pointsr/malefashionadvice

Knife nut here. Allow me to expound.

Serrated vs Straight - Serrations are good for cutting tough soft things. Thick rope and such. Not much else.

Locking Blade with Pocket Clip - Gerber is awful. Avoid at all costs. Seriously. The construction is sub par and the materials are worse.

Kershaw is a good budget recommendation. Of the Kershaws, I would recommend the entire Ken Onion design lineup (the Leek, the Shallot, and the Chive are the three I would purchase myself. In fact, I own all three)

For the more expensive (and, frankly, gorgeous) options, I cannot recommend Benchmade enough. So many classy blades. In fact, Bechmade gets its own category.

Benchmade - Model 586: Aluminium + black G10 handles, AXIS lock, classy as fuck.

Bali-songs: Models 32, 51, 62, 63, and 67. Interesting little (and big) blades. Very fun, extremely beautiful, and a real crowd pleaser.

And that's all I'm going to type for now (at work). If you are interested, check out Benchmade, Knifecenter, and such. Feel free to head over to /r/knives /r/knifeclub for more information, or just ask me, here in comments or with a PM, if you have any questions.

Oh, and do be careful with those balis. They are partially toys, but very very sharp toys.

EDIT: I will add more when I get home late tonight if I remember to.

u/vesperholly · 154 pointsr/LifeProTips

Also if the house is pre-1960s, get this little gizmo and test for grounded outlets. Three-pronged outlets do NOT automatically mean they're grounded. It doesn't necessarily mean you need to rewire the house or anything, but it's something to be aware of.

u/ThisIsWhatICarry · 153 pointsr/AskMen

I'll interpret "guy stuff" as "EDC stuff".

u/AlphaMoose67 · 74 pointsr/AskMen



Bert’s Bees

Pocket Knife

Multitool (When clothing allows)

A good ink pen

Mini composition book for random notes and stuff

And a small “boo-boo” kit, NOT a full first aid kit, (mostly a few different sizes of bandaids, burn ointment, triple antibiotic ointment, Benadryl, and Ibuprofen.)

E:words and stuff

u/Camera_dude · 61 pointsr/talesfromtechsupport

I've only had to repair an outlet a few times but this method is pretty safe:

Flip the breakers for the outlets in the room (do NOT trust the labels on a breaker box, lazy contractors often fail to label properly), then take an outlet tester and plug it into both outlets on the one you're working on AND a neighboring outlet. If it doesn't light up, you're good to start opening up the outlet.

Triple-check that the wiring is done right when you're finished and cable nuts/clamps fully secure all wires then power back on the breaker. Test again with an outlet tester before plugging in any electronics. IMMEDIATELY flip off the breaker again if the tester does not show the correct led light set.

The important part of doing any home repairs is never assume that something is off, or that there's no juice going to that wire. Check always anyway. 10 seconds of testing saves 10 days in a hospital.

u/Seth0351 · 61 pointsr/guns

Just got a new safe for xmas, hated the lighting in it so got started on a DIY lighting project. Spent 20 minutes and $24, its pressure sensitive and lights up all compartments.

u/vikkivinegar · 59 pointsr/Youniqueamua

Pro tip:

To prevent Poseidon's Kiss, grab a lil handful of toilet paper and lay it in the water (in the "target area"), before you go. Paper gives a nice little "landing pad", if you will, and your butt will stay dry.

Also, I just got a bidet and it's the best fucking thing in the world. America is waaay behind on this. I got this one:

it was easy to install and keeps you feeling sooo clean. Also need to use paper only to dry yourself. That way I don't feel so wasteful to drop a few squares in the potty before I go #2.

^sorry ^for ^the ^tmi!

u/WedgeAndTonic · 57 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Yep, the Neo 320, never look back haha

Luxe Bidet Neo 320 - Self Cleaning Dual Nozzle - Hot and Cold Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (blue and white) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RX2UI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jz2iDb8K9DFPZ

u/redreplicant · 53 pointsr/raisedbynarcissists

Something like this might be helpful to you, unless you think it'll cause her to escalate. Ripping the door open like that is sexually abusive, though. You have a right to your privacy.

u/RecumbentPhill · 52 pointsr/TwoXChromosomes

The one I have is the Luxe 320 which has both nozzles and a hot water connection. Super easy to connect, and because I rent, I just have the plasticky hose coming underneath the door to the under the sink bit.


u/KhabaLox · 50 pointsr/LifeProTips

Less than $5 on Amazon.

u/drmcgills · 48 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I even got sick of my Zircon studfinder's flakiness so I sprung for a $8 magnetic one and I dig it. It does take a lil longer because you need to hit on a screw/metal, but I still grab it before my electric one.

EDIT: This is the one on Amazon, which is not where I purchased it (local HD for me), but same product and price.

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VYySCbNCT7D0D

u/exophrine · 48 pointsr/childfree

I say invest in 2 things: a door wedge and an AddALock device.

If your door has a good latch bolt on it, you don't have to invest in a whole lock. I've discovered an invention called an AddaLock that just fits right in the little slither between the door and door frame. When it's locked in place, it keeps the door from ever opening, regardless of how hard you try to open it. Of course, it's only as strong as the door's wood.

Amazon link - it's small and easy to install, and it really works.

EDIT: You cannot lock a door from the outside with the AddALock. It only works from the inside. Keep that in mind.

u/jlt6666 · 47 pointsr/buildapc

Naw, just get one of these. Way easier and will tell you about upstream issues.

u/doctechnical · 43 pointsr/videos

> And one would think that the installer should test that kind of stuff.

If you had someone come to your house to install a big-screen TV, would you expect them to check the outlets to make sure they were wired correctly?

What I would do if I were you: Go to you local hardware store and buy an outlet tester like this - shouldn't be more than five or six bucks. Plug that sucker in and look at the lights. It will tell you instantly if the outlet is wired correctly or not.

If it isn't, call an electrician to fix that.

u/cardinal29 · 40 pointsr/legaladvice

I'd put a chain up, and use it whenever you are home. If you can't do that (screw holes, etc.) there are security door stoppers or this device that stops maintenance people, even if they have a key.

u/eduardojlino · 36 pointsr/lifehacks

Addalock - (1 Piece ) Portable Door Lock, Travel Lock, AirBNB Lock, School Lockdown Lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00186URTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Pvo3Cb33744FX

Just got this from Amazon the other day. I love it. Take it with you anywhere. Works great. I leave my home at 1am and my kids and wife stay at home alone and this makes her feel much much more secure.

u/Faloopa · 36 pointsr/Wellthatsucks

This is a tool you need! I switched from a traditional wall-irregularity finder to one of these and it leveled up my handyman skill.

u/punkynyan · 30 pointsr/buildapc

Your home may be universally wired incorrectly...

Get one of these things at the hardware store and check: https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-3-Wire-Receptacle-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA

u/mountaingoat05 · 30 pointsr/legaladvice

In the meantime, when you are home, invest in one of those door stops so that he can't enter the apartment. You aren't changing the locks, but you're preventing entry. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00186URTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_nq2qzbHH6H744

u/WATErWouldBeNice · 29 pointsr/malelivingspace

These bad boys for every lamp in the apartment. Makes turning on all the lights (in the morning, walking in/out the door, etc) a complete breeze. It's a real game changer.

Also, I velcroed my remotes to the side of my coffee table so I always have them handy.

u/PizzaGood · 27 pointsr/funny

I suggest this:


3 or 4 bucks at a hardware store. In/out and the drain is clear, 10 seconds. No fishing around with a coat hanger. Reaches way the hell farther down around corners than you can with a coat hanger.

u/parametrek · 26 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

It sounds like some of the outlets might have a reversed hot/neutral. Get a cheap outlet tester to find out. And a pigtail adapter to test the 2-prong outlets. Fixing it is pretty simple if you are comfortable working with wiring.

u/randomwtf2 · 26 pointsr/AmItheAsshole

You absolutely lock your door every single time and just flat out tell her "I'm locking my door. This is not negotiable."

In addition to locking your door, get a few other things:

u/sdfg9dfg9hj · 25 pointsr/LetsNotMeet

Thats why its useful to lock your door from the inside. You can use addition locks like this or just a chair wedged under the handle.


It takes about 30 seconds to pick the lock on even high end dead bolt locks. Consumer grade door security is garbage.

Here is someone using two bobby pins in less than a minute.


You can make bump keys, electric lock picks, manual picks, etc, etc. The locks on your door mean nothing to someone who understands how basic they are.

If you suspect someone is entering your house like this you can set traps to detect them. Place some small pieces of dust or "trash" like paper in windowsills where if someone came in and out they would disrupt it. Remember or write down the exact positions of these items. Similarly, when you leave your house reach inside the door and place a small piece of trash right behind the door so if its opened the trash will be blown or otherwise moved from the position you remember placing it in. Carefully open the door and check your trap when getting home. They might see the trap but it doesn't matter, they already triggered it and you will know no matter what that someone was there.

>I keep a metal baseball bat by my bed now and I will use it.

Make sure you know how to swing it well. If I saw someone with a bat it wouldn't really make me hesitate and in fact would just make me think they were focusing too much on the bat as a useful weapon when its really not, especially inside a house where you'll almost always not have room to generate power.


I would suggest a Ruger .380 LCP loaded with high quality ammo kept in a fingerprint locked safe. Total cost is under $500.



Make sure you bolt the safe down so your children don't get any ideas later on in life. Also, make sure you teach them gun safety before they're teenagers. The four rules. Treat all guns as if loaded. Never point a gun at something you wouldn't accept being destroyed. Know your target and what is beyond it. Finger off the trigger/out of the trigger gurd at all times until you want to shoot.

u/plaidpaint · 25 pointsr/whatisthisthing

Portable door lock.

For extra security at a hotel or whatever.

u/whiteyonthemoon · 24 pointsr/gadgets
u/Sanstar70 · 24 pointsr/flashlight


Looks like a pretty cool light. Now I just need to get my comment karma over 100 lol

u/Gereshes · 23 pointsr/EngineeringStudents

Going through undergrad commencement this weekend had me thinking about my time in undergrad and more specifically, those things I chose to carry with me almost every day.

Starting from the upper right hand corner and working my way around in clockwise direction.

Pens – 3 Disposable Bic pens – When it comes to pens I leave them everywhere. I leave them in class, the lab, the machine shop, etc. Because of this I buy them in bulk and then just carry a bunch of disposable pens with me. They are cheap so if I lose one or someone asks to borrow one I don’t worry about getting them back. I like these pens because I find they are comfortable to write with, wont break from me carrying them around or treating them like shit, and have a pen cap to prevent them from making a mess in my pocket. Why no pencils?  I haven’t found a mechanical pencil that is both cheap and will survive in my pocket. If you know of one that fits those two requirements let me know in the comments!

Highlighter – Used for marking up academic papers I am reading. I’ll usually carry one or two with me but I keep several different colors at home for heavy markup. The colors I like carrying on me are odd colors, not yellow, like green and pink because they let my markups stand out from other peoples markups.

Sharpie – Used for marking up things that pens and highlighters can’t like metal, ceramics, and sleeping lab mates.

USB Drive – I don’t use it all that often thanks to free services like Google Drive and Dropbox but  everyone in a while when you don’t have access to other options these can really save you. For example like when you need to print out a final report that’s due in 15 minutes and the internet is down. (That example definitely hasn’t happened to me)

Letherman Skeletool – The Skeletool is a good all around multi-tool. It has a knife, pliers, wire cutters,/strippers, screwdriver (both flat an Philips), and a bottle opener.  It’s slim so its easy to carry without giving up a lot of functionality.

Timex Weekender Chrono – Useful for telling time if durring both meetings and tests when you cant check your phone. Taking a peek at your watch durring a meeting is unnoticeable unlike when you check your phone which can be considered rude.

TI-84 – The second most useful tool in my entire engineering education after a pen. I’ll often use the calculator instead of Matlab or Wolfram Alpha for doing homework that require simple computations just because I’m so familiar with it that I can operate it extremely quickly just from muscle memory.

Planner –  It’s useful for writing down assignment due dates and meetings. Everyone has a different way of organizing events/work an I find havving a written copy helps me visualize where everything is.

Muji Recycle Paper Bind Notebook – Useful for taking notes in meetings and they can fit in my back pocket

Allett Slim Bifold Wallet – It’s an ultra thin bifold wallet that I love. It’s so thin I never even notice it in my pocket. I can sit on it all day without being uncomfortable. My last one became worn out after two years and I bought another one immediately. I highly recommend them!

Keys –  For opening doors/stuff. Note: I just grabbed some unused keys for this pic and put them on a carabiner.

Google  Pixel – It’s taking the photo. Lately its mostly been used for snap chat

u/romper_el_dia · 21 pointsr/JUSTNOFAMILY

This will keep him out without damaging the door: Addalock

This one causes an alarm to go off (which I like because it may train him): Anndason Door Stop Security Alarm with 120 DB Siren

u/covercash · 21 pointsr/CrohnsDisease

You think you are, but you’re not quite ready... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RX2UI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_e4jDCbW4RMFSF

u/Sewer-Urchin · 21 pointsr/AskAnAmerican

I'd be weirded out if bidets suddenly exploded, but not if it was in popularity. I have one of these at home and it's awesome...makes me hate traveling though, a few days away from that and you really start to miss it.

u/ice_veins · 21 pointsr/todayilearned

try this bidet feels better than wiping anyway and gets you way more clean plus this model has hot water hookup for those cold mornings

u/Matrinka · 21 pointsr/wheredidthesodago

You can get a Zip-It which does the same thing for about $2.50 at Lowes or Home Depot. It is disposable, though, not reusable.

u/mikeperr · 20 pointsr/HomeImprovement

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aMyRAbZN3XD11

It's a magnet. Foolproof. Which I need because I've never had much luck with the electronic ones.

u/CivilDiscussions · 19 pointsr/DIY

That isn't true at all. I can get away with a simple magnet and just use it to find a sheetrock screw.

Look at this stud finder on amazon -
CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder

4.5 out of 5 stars with over 7,000 reviews and only costs $9.99. Thing doesn't even require batteries.

I would tell people the exact opposite of what you said. Don't waste $30-40 on a stud finder when a $9 one will work just as well.

u/ms23789 · 19 pointsr/TheGirlSurvivalGuide

Came to recommend this, specifically this kind of lock which doesn’t require special install so is perfect for an apartment. Addalock - (1 Piece ) Portable Door Lock It doesn’t look like much but will keep your door locked even if someone has a key.

u/Allibob1 · 19 pointsr/beyondthebump

Could you use one of these portable locks? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00186URTY/

u/danibobanny · 19 pointsr/IWantToLearn

Zip-it's ... a plastic thing that goes down the drain and pulls up the hair. All it is that's clogging your drain is hair, and this avoids putting very harsh chemicals down your sink (which is bad for your plumbing as well as the environment!)

I've found them a lot cheaper than this, but this is the product: http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Products-00412BL-Zip-It-Cleaning/dp/B000BO9204

And even though it says it can't be reused, it totally can. Eventually the little teeth fall off and you have to get a new one but you can get like 20 uses out of 'em, or more if you just pull the hair off of them when you're done using them.

u/VelociraptorHighjack · 18 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

Buy a 5 dollar Zip product at your favorite discount store. You can just rinse and reuse for a long time and they work great for long hair removal. Amazon

u/GKrollin · 18 pointsr/AskMen
  1. Fire Extinguisher
  2. Plunger
  3. Bleach (even if you don't use it in the laundry)
  4. A crock pot
  5. A humidifier/dehumidifier as needed.
  6. A screen door for either the front or back door
  7. These: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQELHBS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  8. Tupperware
  9. A good kitchen knife or two (better than getting a cheap set of 12
  10. A grill
u/roboplatypus · 18 pointsr/malelivingspace


Your verdict: 8/10

Kudos to you for being ahead of most of your college peers in the exciting field of interior decorating! The lion poster really ties the room together. Keep the place this clean and score big points with the females.

Buy some plants and put them on that windowsill and your desk. Please don't over water them.

When you buy art make sure it's majority black or white. Colored accents are fine but something too loud can mess with the black and white feng shui you got goin' on.

Buy these LED lights. Better yet buy two of 'em so you know all the wall is covered. Slap in the corner between the wall and the ceiling and get some additional light in there - you're going to want something besides the overhead light and your lamp.

Go crazy and experiment with colors. Here's what the place looks like with an orange tone. Here is the place with a cool blue tone. You can also keep it a bright white light if you're a more minimalist person.

Get a place to store all the junk you have on top of your desk. Get some books in there too.

u/Muniosi_returns · 17 pointsr/EDC

It's currently $29 on Amazon too.

u/Smooth1076 · 16 pointsr/EDC

Personally, I would just buy one decent knife for that price. The first set looks like it includes things I already own like a nice pen and mini tool, and the knives are so similar in the second set. I don't like assisted opening either. Just my 2 cents.

u/x_painted_crane_x · 16 pointsr/thebachelor

Oh you fancy! Mine doesn’t have an air dryer, but that would’ve been very convenient for a pregnant lady!

u/ameoba · 15 pointsr/buildapc

Get an outlet tester. If this wasn't a problem before, I suspect somebody did a shitty job wiring up your place. If the wiring is faulty... umm... I'm not sure how to fix it but, technically, it should be your landlord's problem but things might not work that way in Indonesia.

I wouldn't plug in the PC until you've got that figured out unless you're OK with with frying your computer to get in a few more rounds of DOTA.

u/Gangreless · 15 pointsr/SuddenlyGay

$60, they have some cheaper models but I highly recommend the one with hot water attachment, it's only $10 or 15 more and so worth it. Also the one like this with the lever water adjust instead of dial, it's better at adjusting pressure.

I have this one in both our toilets:

Luxe Bidet Neo 320 - Self Cleaning Dual Nozzle - Hot and Cold Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (blue and white) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RX2UI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6T03BbKZX2T17

u/knucklebone · 15 pointsr/sysadmin

sounds like a power surge got the switch... is it plugged into a quality surge protector? Also, try a plug tester like this to make sure the ports are wired up properly and the ground is working. I've seen this happen a few times, and had it happen personally from a messed up plug. Surge suppression is usually only on the live side of the mains.

Another thing to remember, is that the surge suppression components in power strips do degrade over time, and may not provide proper protection.

u/cryospam · 15 pointsr/funny

Seriously...get a Bidet It's a super easy install (you have to be not totally retarded, but it takes like 15 minutes) and you will find that you go from using too much TP to a roll lasting you forever.

It's like the difference between living alone and living with your girlfriend...but all over again. It's amazing, and if you can convince the GF to use the bidet too...you'll reduce your TP usage to only ~12 times what you used when you lived alone instead of 250 times what you used when you lived alone.

Think of it like this...if you got shit all over your hand...would you just wipe it on some dry paper towel and call it a day, or would you wash that shit off? Why are you treating your ass differently?

u/nuffnuf · 14 pointsr/AskWomen

Remote operated plug things - turn off your plugged-in things with a simple remote. (This 2-remote 5-plug combination is 48 cents over BUT they have a 1-remote 3-plug version). Total lifesaver.

u/flyinb11 · 14 pointsr/CrohnsDisease

If you want warn water.
Luxe Bidet Neo 320 - Self Cleaning Dual Nozzle - Hot and Cold Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (blue and white) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RX2UI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_EBTWAbHQDEBEP

u/DonCasper · 14 pointsr/homelab

I prefer the plug tester that actually plugs into the wall because the non-contact ones can be tripped by live wires in the same junction box.


I think I got mine at a home improvement store for $5. Obviously it's for standard us outlets only.

u/rawditor · 13 pointsr/tech

I just want to hijack this comment to let everyone in here who feels like they are too poor for a bidet, that this one on Amazon is amazing...


You're BH will thank you

u/chortle-guffaw · 13 pointsr/legaladvice

The receptacle may be grounded. Buy a three-prong adapter. It will have a metal grounding tab on the end that can be screwed into the wall plate. Buy a receptacle tester at any hardware store and plug it into the adapter. It will tell you if there is ground or not.

u/cloudmech · 13 pointsr/applehelp

OP this is actually a problem you should get fixed soon. Stop by a hardware store and pick up an inexpensive outlet tester - it looks like a male three prong plug with lights on the other side and a little chart to tell you what they mean

Test your outlets to confirm they're grounded. As your Mac generates EMI inside it relies on the case for grounding - it can build up a low level of voltage you probably won't feel.

The reason you're picking up an AM station is that radio is a form of radiation and your giant aluminum box is getting hit with. Without a ground - it is one giant antenna funneling all sorts of emi radiation into the box. Not good for the of your computer and could pose a risk to you.

If you find it's not grounded, that's not up to code in most places - work with your landlord or building manger to resolve the issue.



u/Eleanor_Abernathy · 13 pointsr/legaladvice
u/ehawa001 · 12 pointsr/knifeclub

Definitely the Ontario Rat 1, in my opinion. Here's the link:

Ontario 8848 RAT Folding Knife (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013ASG3E/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_2uBAwbHX4BTW9

u/Nicker · 12 pointsr/Monitors

you could always get something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU

lets you know if your outlets are properly grounded. once you find the bad ones, you can work on tieing in new wiring for grounding in rooms that have sensitive electronics you don't want fried.

u/[deleted] · 12 pointsr/AskReddit

The coolest things that I have personally bought (under $50 individually) are:

$43 4Sevens Preon Revo - single AAA flashlight(!), 82 lumens(!), excellent construction.

$12 Split Pea Lighter - world's smallest lighter.

$35 Leatherman Skeletool - lightweight, functional, stylish multitool. (Technically when I bought it a couple years ago it was $65. Still worth it!)

That's all I can think of for now. Can you tell that I was a Boy Scout? Also I like tiny things.

u/EineBeBoP · 12 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Leatherman Skeletool

There are several different versions with different tools, but i love that it has a built in clip to attach to a belt loop. Makes it easy to carry and pull out. I've used mine heavily for 2 years, and its still 100% functional. (worn paint, had to sharpen knife finally)

There is also this set with a scissors/file.

u/nwalker85 · 12 pointsr/malefashionadvice

I can't recommend the Kershaw Leek enough. It comes factory sharp enough to shave, it's super slim, and it looks classy as hell.


u/Alexfortomorrow · 12 pointsr/italy

Il commento più bello potrebbe essere quello che dice di averlo comprato su amazon. Per 50 USD.




Link NSFL per i più avventurosi

u/waywithwords · 12 pointsr/worldnews

Yes! Americans are especially unversed in the use of bidets as they aren't really a thing in the States. After experiencing them in Europe, I had to have one at home. And you can find them for so cheap! We installed this one ourselves and it can hook up to the warm water line

u/Kalahan7 · 11 pointsr/knives

Kershaw Skyline. It's a great folder for EDC use and yet very affordable.

Super lightweight, reliable, easy to operate, ergonomical, safe to use, great blade size and form, and so cheap it's almost disposable.

A great first knife to see what you like about it and later on maybe spend more on something else.

u/Sneakyjackass269 · 11 pointsr/knives
u/AtomicFlx · 11 pointsr/amateurradio

You might want to travel with a plug tester like this. Would make for an exciting day to find the hot and ground swapped because some idiot didn't know how to hook up a plug properly.

u/IGPub · 11 pointsr/BabyBumps

Looks like this one which we have, although the warm water line isn't hooked up. Totally worth it though! This one also has a "female" setting for those gnarly period days. That said, even if you don't get one with warm water hookup (we couldn't hook up the hot line) you'll rarely feel the coldness of the water on your butt hole. Only drawback is feeling like a heathen if you poop anywhere that doesn't have a bidet lmao

u/angrybubble · 11 pointsr/TwoXChromosomes

Sometimes I find brushing my hair before I shower helps get rid of a few loose hairs which saves my drain from getting clogged as fast. I also keep a trash can right next to the shower so as hair comes loose in the shower I can just put it in the trash instead of down the drain. (this really only works well if you have long hair. When my hair was short it was pretty much impossible to catch it and toss it)

If you're able to remove the drain plug then a plastic zipper style drain cleaner works amazing. I used to buy Drano and it took forever and never really cleaned the drain very well plus it's not very good for your pipes. The zipper cleaner thing physically pulls out all the hair which is faster and more effective than trying to slowly dissolve it. I buy them for cheap from my local hardware store in the plumbing section.

If you can't remove the drain plug then covering the drain with a drain hair catcher works pretty good at catching hairs and drastically slowing down the time it takes to clog the drain. Some of them stick to the tub, some of them just sit on the top of the drain, some are reusable, some are disposable. Depends what your preference is but they work pretty good too and especially on drains that have a plug that is hard to remove.

u/InterloperKO · 11 pointsr/DIYfail

I prefer this

I've had 100 dollar stud finders that couldn't do what this magnet does. They aren't terribly accurate and require batteries.

u/asilvermtzion · 11 pointsr/synthesizers

It's not normal and is potentially dangerous. It seems likely you have a grounding issue and such problems have, historically, been fatal to some musicians, particularly guitarists, Keith Relf of the Yardbirds for instance. Modern equipment tends to be a lot safer and electrocution is less likely but it's still a risk. While the voltage you've felt, so far, is harmless it could indicate that you're ungrounded and if a fault were to develop with any of the interconnected equipment stray voltage could be present on the conductive surfaces of your gear and the cables connected to them.

You in the US? Get an electrical outlet tester like one of these and test the wall outlets you use. If the tester shows a fault get an electrician to come and repair it. If the wall outlets test as OK, test the first power strip, then the next, then the next, until you find where the fault is and then dispose of that strip and get a new one.

u/ANAL_PLUNDERING · 11 pointsr/knives

No problem.

Kershaw Scallion (Small, assisted opening, steel is not so great)

Kershaw Skyline (good size, G10, nice blade shape, steel can get to a crazy level of sharpness)

Kershaw OSO Sweet (pretty cool assisted opener, great price there on amazon)

Spyderco Tenacious (same decent steel on the OSO Sweet and Byrd, good G10, good blade shape, Spyderco quality, great value)

Byrd Cara2 (Great value, overseas production brings prices way down on all Byrd knives)

Here is one above your price range

And one below your price range

u/donkeyrocket · 11 pointsr/bicycling

I believe it is this one from Amazon. I spent a while researching options and drawing up potential plans to make my own before I ultimately decided to buy the two bike gravity mount. Only needs one drill hole and very little risk of it falling. For $45 I can put off a more artistic rack for a while. The thing is rock solid too with a road bike and cross bike on it.

Word of warning: if you order this and it doesn't come in the retailer's box inside the Amazon box send it back immediately and get a replacement. It is used and likely won't come together nicely.

u/ninjaciego · 11 pointsr/pics

House is usually around 68-70 degrees during winter, so it's really not bad at all.

If that's really your concern you can also get a heated bidet.

u/alexs456 · 11 pointsr/india

you guys need to get the "Attachable Bidet" for your toilets....works like a dream....i have something similar to the link below


last but not least this product talks about the benefits of squatting and pooping....and the west makes fun of our Indian toilets...hahahaha



u/Augie956 · 11 pointsr/RepTime

Hey RepTime, with my watch cases almost full, I thought it would be a good time to post full collection pics of my watches. The imgur link has full collection pics and up close shots of each watch with full title from the TD. I tried my best with the pics, many of the watches look better in person than what my lack of photo taking skills can display.

Why did I get into replicas?
About 2 years ago, I was in the market for a gen Rolex or Breitling, but then I stumbled upon this subreddit and here we are. I've been collecting for a little more than a year now. Currently at 54 watches with another Tudor on the way.

I've only purchased from Intime and Trustytime. Overall, they are about the same, but Trusty time email response times are faster.
I usually bundle about 4-5 watches per order to save on shipping costs, been only buying from trustytime lately due to their lower shipping costs and promo code coupon. I haven't seen any difference in watch prices between the TDs.
Each order usually takes about a 3-4 weeks from order date to delivery. Haven't had any major issues with either TD, customs or watches arriving DOA.

Experience so far:
I don't have any one favorite watch, I like having variety and sometimes change watches throughout the day.
I have not serviced any watch yet, but each watch gets little and infrequent use.

Also, be great if you guys can recommend what my collection is missing!

Links to watch cases, LED light kits, cleaning cloth, and watch resizing tools:

u/FeelingPinkieKeen · 10 pointsr/AnimeFigures

My Lighting setup:

  1. LED Light Strip (Tape style so you can stick it to the glass)

  2. Power Brick for LEDs

  3. Switch for LEDs (Different styles can be used based on user pref) (!NOTE: these do not dim LEDs)

u/CantRememberMyUserID · 10 pointsr/WTF

Get one of these - Zip-It plastic drain cleaning tool. Costs about 3 dollars; pulls this crap out of the drain really easily so you use it more often which prevents worse stuff.

u/JordanTheBrobot · 10 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Fixed your link

I hope I didn't jump the gun, but you got your link syntax backward! Don't worry bro, I fixed it, have an upvote!

u/Tadashi047 · 10 pointsr/knives

Although the Instant is an alright knife, I believe that it is overpriced at $40 with a blade of 7Cr17Mov steel.

Kershaw Clash is about 20 bucks, made with better steel (8CR13MOV), assisted opening and also has lifetime warranty.

Kershaw Skyline at the price range of $35 has better steel (14C28N) than the Clash, assisted opening and the same warranty.

u/randallphoto · 10 pointsr/buildapc

As long as you're not exceeding 2000+ watts in the same room, you'll likely be fine as most circuits in the US have 15-20amp breakers/fuses.

No real danger of a blackout or brown out, the computer will just shut off. You could always pick up a UPS backup if you're worried about that.

If you live in a place that has lightning I would recommend a good surge protector, not just a power strip.

Only possible super rare thing I've seen to worry about with electricity and computers is if you have a computer on one outlet and you connect HDMI or similar to a TV that's plugged into another circuit and if there's an issue with wiring in your house/apt it could burn things out. I use one of these http://www.amazon.com/GE-50542-3-Wire-Receptacle-Tester/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1398086820&sr=1-1&keywords=receptacle+tester to test circuits to be sure :P

u/_zsh · 10 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

The Engineer SS-02 changed my life.

u/ragingcomputer · 10 pointsr/homeautomation

I think it's easier to search for minor inconveniences and annoyances around your house, then search for ways to automate it away.

I gotta watch out with this site or I'll end up in the non-automated poorhouse, but it's awesome for product discovery

Since you mentioned OpenHAB, the supported technologies list is a good place to start a wishlist too

I'm using z-wave for most of my devices, so the product database is full of devices that are more likely to be compatible

This forum thread is also great for seeing what other people have gotten working

Personally, I've had great luck with these devices:

Aeon Labs Aeotec Z-Wave Z-Stick, Gen5 Z-Wave Plus - ZW090 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_cIbCwbYMNV0A4

2gig CT100 Z-Wave Programmable Thermostat (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CQ4V3Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_3IbCwbNFR9PQ6

MIMOLite - Z-wave Mulit-Input/Output Dry Contact Bridge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6RZ7MM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_uKbCwbF1ZBAXK

GE12722 Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control On/Off Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_oLbCwbQCFR48K

GoControl WNK01-21KIT Z-Wave Essentials Wink Enabled Security Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XUXYSWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_p5bCwbRY8TXQ5

I have an old ADT installed Safewatch pro 3000 alarm, and this ties it into OpenHAB really nicely.

I'm comfortable pulling wires through the walls, so I use one of these for TTS playback from my OpenHAB box:
Elk ELK-70 Echo Speaker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XP1HZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_kZbCwb799TN4C

Driven by one of these:
Lepai LP-2020A+ Tripath TA2020 Class-T Hi-Fi Audio Amplifier with Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049P6OTI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_X0bCwb7MYGM47

A few scenarios might help with inspiration.

I have a sensor on my garage entry door that kicks on the laundry room light when the door is opened so I never enter a dark house with my hands full.

If it's 00:00 - 06:00 and any perimeter sensors on the alarm are tripped, all outside and main level lights come on at full brightness

I have a sensor on my garage door to send me an alert if it has been open for more than 15 minutes, and a camera and a mimolite to close it remotely

My wife works nights so I have a mimolite to disable the upstairs doorbell while she's sleeping during the day. It sends our phones alerts if the doorbell is rung while silenced

u/HilariousMax · 10 pointsr/knives
  • ~$7-8 Sanrenmu 7010/710 - You can find these at Gearbest for cheap as hell when they have sales but they're absolutely $30 worth of knife
  • ~$10-20 Opinel no.6-12 - Depends on blade size/steel/handle wood. #6 is under 3in blade if that kind of thing matters.
  • ~$20 CRKT Drifter
  • ~$20 Spyderco Byrd Cara Cara2
  • ~$20-25 Ontario Rat II or Rat I
  • ~$30 Victorinox Cadet Alox
  • ~$30 Kershaw Cryo
  • ~$35 CRKT Ripple
  • ~$35 Spyderco Persistence
  • ~$40 Kershaw Skyline - Often on sale in the ~$30 range
  • ~$40 Kershaw Leek - Same sales as with the Skyline \^^

    Honorable Mention: Case knives. Traditional lockbacks. Hard as nails and pretty to boot. True pocket knives. Your grandfather (possibly great grandfather) had one. Good stuff the lot of them. $25-50 will get you a legacy knife that you can carry and use and then pass to your kid.

    You don't need to spend $200 to get a quality, durable, reliable knife. I've owned all of these knives at one time or another and loved every one of them. Sure they needed sharpening more often and sometimes something a little more drastic (Sanrenmus are often cheaper to replace than fix) but the value is insane. Plus, lets face facts; we're much more likely to break out our Cadet when we get box duty than our Sebenza.

    Knife enthusiasts (brothers) if there's a weighed and measured cheapo that I forgot, let me know.
u/sgtsnyder88 · 10 pointsr/homedefense

Wow dude, either you downplayed the danger of your neighborhood or the severity of your paranoia. That said, here are some options:

If you're just looking for an audible alert, a door entry sensor that makes a tone when tripped (like on store entrances) may work, or you can hang some bells from the door knob. There are also alarm options such as this ( https://www.amazon.com/Door-Wedge-Alarms-pack-2/dp/B00A1DY6WO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1485088469&sr=8-3&keywords=travel+door+jamb+security )

If you're looking for added physical security, there are several temporary/travel lock options:



Hope this helps, but honestly you may consider moving if it's so bad you have to pile things in front of the door and leave a TV on all night.

u/Oberoni · 10 pointsr/videos


That little thing has kept several people from just walking into my hotel room. Chain hotels double book fairly frequently, they also don't change the locks all that often. If you 'lose' a card they may charge you a small fee but it will still open that door. Mid-day rolls around you can assume whoever is in the room is off doing something and you can walk in and take their stuff.

u/PageFault · 9 pointsr/badroommates

Why not try to practice self control and talk to them like an adult first, and reserve losing your shit if it continues after the talk?

It's going to be tough to ask children to be quiet in the middle of the afternoon. It may be best just to move out.

Here are a few options to keep the kids out of your room in the meantime:





u/UncannyGenesis · 9 pointsr/onebag

I travel with a similar product, the Addalock. Same concept, but the two pieces are attached together so you can't lose one of them.

u/TheCapn · 9 pointsr/TheBrewery

Leatherman Skeletool for about $60 and a Pelican 023500-0000-110 flashlight for about $30. It should be noted that those are prices for responsible people who don't lose them. I think I've bought the same leatherman 3 times now.

u/mastersword130 · 9 pointsr/todayilearned

There is a bidet for $60 on Amazon that connects to both the cold and hot water lines. So if you know where your hot water line is in the bathroom you can connect it so you can have warm water hit you.


So if you live in the cold this will be wonderful and it really pays for itself, you'll be using less tp since you will just dry yourself with it.

u/belly917 · 9 pointsr/homeautomation

There is no 2 device single gang zwave switch on the market at the moment. Most people here either:

  • expand the box to be a double gang box and then install a z-wave switch for the lights example, and a z-wave switch for the fan. example It's dimmable (3 speeds)

  • Put a single zwave switch in the wall for the lights, and then put a remote dimmer unit for the fan that hides in the electrical box above the ceiling fan. This limits control to an app, voice with google home/alexa, or getting some sort of zwave multi button scene control to stick on the wall.

  • A modification of the previous. Put remote dimmer/switch for BOTH the light and the fan in the electrical box above the fan (may not fit) and then put a zwave scene controller in the original single gang box switch location.

    I was fortunate to have double gang boxes in my house, so I was able to use the seperate GE light and fan switches. Both work well.
u/GrandMoffFinke · 9 pointsr/XWingTMG

I’ve always really liked the Stanley storage units:

Stanley 014725 25-Removable Compartment Professional Organizer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005QWYF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NG3QBbBJF1XYS

u/mranderson17 · 9 pointsr/whatisthisthing

Pretty sure it's the hanger part of this bike rack

EDIT: Here's a picture instead of an Amazon link

u/mistersausage · 9 pointsr/homeowners

Just buy a Zip-It (or the generic version). These work really well on tubs and showers for me.


u/JasterMereel42 · 8 pointsr/Workbenches

I use the Stanley 10 bin and 25 bin trays. They're also great for my loose Lego collection so I have a few spares and pull one for whenever I need one in the garage or in the house.

This isn't a perfect solution though. I had to build a rack in order to store all of these containers. Also, it is a 2 step process to get anything out: 1) remove the tray from the rack and 2) open the container to get what I need. I'm fine with this though because it is ultra portable and the 2 step method isn't too much of a hinderance. Also, this way the storage density is pretty high and I can keep a lot of stuff in a small space.

u/poo-poo · 8 pointsr/EDC

For reference, this was the Kershaw Leek 3" blade

u/buds1994 · 8 pointsr/bicycling
u/GeicoNotGecko · 8 pointsr/cycling

For my small apartment, I bought this off Amazon. It leans up against the wall and can be used as a bike stand for maintenance.

Edit: For $50 it's been great: amazon link

u/marcoaml78 · 8 pointsr/MTB

i live in a studio and i have 4 bikes on two of these https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ACAM38/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My bikes are part of the deco, i made room specifically for them, people know i'm a cyclist and the bikes don't look the least bit off. No way i'd leave them anywhere else.

u/fun_director · 8 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Best one that I know of... I use it all the time, very accurate!

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GR7aAbYG0R3YB

u/Inshpincter_Gadget · 8 pointsr/electricians

Use a powerful magnet to locate the nails in the wall. When you find a vertical row of nails that is where the stud is.

This one is awesome:


u/AnalogKid2112 · 8 pointsr/EngineeringStudents

I picked up a bunch of cheap part drawers like these when they were on sale at a local store. Very easy to organize stuff if you have the desk space.

u/fatangaboo · 8 pointsr/AskElectronics

I use these to organize and store SMD components.

I use these enormously big-ass cabinetrys to store thru-hole components such as ICs in DIP packages.

u/Nuhhea · 8 pointsr/AskMenOver30

Electrical outlet tester - Use on each outlet in the home to make sure all is working properly and not needing work done. I used Sperry Tester
Test the sinks, toilets and showers. Run both cold water and hot water through each sink/shower and flush the toilets a couple of times.
Ask about pest control, how often, who does it.
How do you contact maintenance for any requests? How quickly can they come out to assist?
Check the windows and make sure they can open, or are securely locked.
Who has keys to your location? Did the last tenant turn in all keys? Can you get the location re-keyed for a small fee?
Hope this helps!

u/GnashRoxtar · 8 pointsr/EDC

So in my mind, the basics of an EDC are a knife, a flashlight, a pen, and a notebook. Depending on your preference/level of preparedness, though, multitools are great, a gun is convenient if you're in a dangerous place with any regularity, and a first-aid kit can literally be a lifesaver.

So for the basics I'd recommend:
Knife: a Kershaw Leek or Scrambler. The Leek is smaller, more discreet, very light, and razor sharp. The Scrambler is considerably more robust, has a longer blade (3.5" vs. 3"), but weighs more as well. Both can be found in Kershaw's "Blackwash" finish, which I like both for the feel and for the added rust and scratch resistance. Both are also spring-assisted, which is legal in a lot of places, but check your local laws before carrying either in public. If you can't carry them, take a look at the Cold Steel Voyager. It comes in several lengths, is legal in California, and is very durable, if not super comfortable.

Flashlights: Oh my god, the flashlights. LEDs have become so cheap and so bright over the last few years that it's actually pretty hard to go wrong. Nitecore is currently my favorite brand, but Fenix has some options as well. I would urge you not to buy a surefire; they are undeniably great lights, but unless you expect to encounter truly extraordinary circumstances on a regular basis (any chance your light could fall under a tank or a bulldozer? maybe surefire is for you), they tend to be somewhat more pricey per lumen than a number of other companies. For EDC, the Fenix PD35 2014 edition is almost unmatched. Almost a thousand lumens, takes rechargeable batteries, and small enough to drop into the front pocket of your jeans, if you don't want to use the included clip or holster. If you'd like something more keychain sized, the Nitecore SENS series comes in several sizes and battery types, and automatically adjusts the brightness of the beam based on the light's orientation. Aim it at your feet and you get a soft glow; aim it off into the woods and it grows steadily brighter.

Let's be honest, a pen is going to get lost. The best pen is one you like enough to keep track of, but one you won't miss too terribly should some co-worker walk off with it. I like the Zebra F-301. Writes smooth, classic stainless steel good looks, and comes in RGB & Black. Notebooks depend entirely on personal preference too, but the smallest Moleskine is easily pocketable and has 32 lined pages.

In my mind, there is only one name in multitools. Leatherman has a kick-ass reputation, a 25-year warranty, and a plethora of tools to suit any need. For the casual EDC, I'd go with what I believe is the second-lightest full size tool, the Skeletool. 7 functions include a knife that opens while the rest of the tool is closed, the ubiquitous pliers/wirecutters, two double-sided bits and a driver; and it looks so. freakin. cool.

I dunno much about guns except that of all the things I've listed, a pistol should be the one you consider most carefully, especially whether you need it or not. It's a big investment and a bit of a lifestyle adjustment if you decide to go CCW. I've always heard 9mm and up, so use that as a jumping-off point.

First aid kits are useless unless they're both small enough to be carried anywhere and large enough to contain anything you might need. Making your own is a good idea because you have the best knowledge of your environment, but I found a couple on Amazon which seem to have most of the basics without too much fluff or bulk. The first could be stuffed in a jacket pocket, whereas the second would be useful in a car.

I hope I helped. Good luck!

[Kershaw Scrambler] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I04MOIO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[Kershaw Leek] (http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1660BLKW-Folding-BlackWash-SpeedSafe/dp/B00J14BOBU/ref=pd_sim_sg_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=1MHD47WR72RJ9HJVWCZN)

[Cold Steel Voyager, 3 inch] (http://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-Voyager-Tanto-Plain/dp/B00322LQB0/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1417535788&sr=1-5&keywords=cold+steel+voyager)

[Fenix PD35 2014] (http://www.amazon.com/Fenix-PD35-Flashlight-EdisonBright-Batteries/dp/B00DR9GWX0/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1417536075&sr=1-1&keywords=fenix+pd+35)

[Nitecore SENS AA version]

Zebra F-301

[Moleskine "Cahier" Notebook, pack of 3] (http://www.amazon.com/Moleskine-Cahier-Journal-Pocket-Ruled/dp/8883704894/ref=sr_1_1?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1417536675&sr=1-1&keywords=moleskine+small)

[Leatherman Skeletool] (http://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-830846-Skeletool-Multitool/dp/B000XU9NXW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417536920&sr=8-1&keywords=skeletool)

[Small bag or pocket first aid kit] (http://www.amazon.com/AAA-Piece-Commuter-First-Aid/dp/B000SL0R9K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417537142&sr=8-2&keywords=first+aid+kit)

Larger car first aid kit

EDIT: aspace

u/PapaShane · 8 pointsr/EDC

If you have a few bucks lying around, the easiest way to answer this question is to have you buy a decent knife and see for yourself how much better it is. For a nice folder in your size range, the Ontario Rat1 would be a nice start...it's only $25 (which is a very low price for a quality knife), its 3.5" blade is big enough to do most things you'll need it to do while also being legal to carry almost everywhere (in the US), it's supposed to have a buttery smooth pivot action, and it has a decent blade steel (AUS-8) as opposed to the who-knows-what in a typical gas station knife. And yes, the steel alloy does make a lot of difference, a good blade will hold a sharp edge for longer, be tough enough to withstand some abuse, be flexible enough that it doesn't shatter easily, and unlike crap "stainless" steel it will actually remain rust-free under reasonable conditions. The heat treatment of the blade also contributes to these traits, and I can guarantee that Ontario does a better heat-treat than whoever made your $7 gas station knife...which probably didn't receive any treatment. If the Rat1 isn't your style, Kershaw makes a bunch of budget-friendly (~$30) knives that are also pretty highly regarded, something like the Cryo which has spring-assisted opening or the very sexy Skyline which isn't assisted opening. And if those aren't to your liking, then Spyderco makes a couple budget folders, one of them being the Resilience which has a bigger 4.25" blade and nice G10 handles, you may like that one for the bigger size. Might wanna check the legality in your area though...

So yeah, apart from working better, a nice knife also has a much smaller chance of failing and cutting off your finger, which is the main reason that I cringe a little bit when people use bad knives...I just don't want to see someone who doesn't know any better get hurt by a knife they thought would work fine. Unfortunately, I do see plenty of knives like that around r/EDC, but maybe I just hang out in /r/knives too much.

u/TheStuffle · 8 pointsr/EDC

The Ontario RAT Model 1 and the Byrd CaraCara 2 are worth looking at.

u/Jongmi2 · 8 pointsr/Bushcraft

$100 to spend? Lets get him started out right!

Fixed blade knife and Saw for Bushcraft tasks:

Bahco has a combo kit with a Mora fixed blade knife and a folding saw for $28.50 at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Bahco-LAP-KNIFE-Laplander-Folding-Multi-Purpose/dp/B008ZG8S0A

Folding Knife for food prep:

Add an Opinel #8 for $20: https://www.amazon.com/Opinel-Carbon-Blade-Folding-Knife/dp/B002SCUO04/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3OVY093ZE8FB9&keywords=opinel+no+8&qid=1573841922&sprefix=opinel%2Ctools%2C152&sr=8-4

or an Ontario RAT 1 for $25: https://www.amazon.com/Ontario-8848-Folding-Knife-Black/dp/B0013ASG3E/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=ontario+rat+1&qid=1573842093&sr=8-1

Axe for fire prep:

Cold Steel Trail Boss fo $32: https://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-CS90TA-BRK-Trail-Boss/dp/B001CZ9UY4/ref=sr_1_1?crid=21DD9KF7WOYCB&dchild=1&keywords=cold+steel+trail+boss&qid=1573842210&sprefix=cold+steel+trail%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-1


That pretty much covers all things pointy and sharp to get him started in bushcraft for a grand total of $85.50

As he learns and develops more bushcraft skills he can upgrade when needed but this will get him started out with some solid gear.

u/ecNate · 8 pointsr/homedefense

This is really weird and probably impossible. If you want to be able to lock it and leave, but it needs to be discreet so nobody on the outside knows it's there? I mean all they have to do is try and open it to know it's now locked. Isn't this then the problem, you want it to be unknown that it's locked? Just change the door knob, it's only a keyhole exposed. I suppose you could add a child lock plastic cover to cover the lock...You really need to explain your problem with making it obvious that a lock now exists for people to help.

Any device added to it will either be obvious as well, although there is this device that you can use to lock while you are in the room that would not be obvious from the outside, but if you need to leave and keep it locked then you would be out of luck.

u/immaseaman · 8 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Look into code, don't cut corners and get yourself one of these outlet testers to check your work. Like someone else said, hooking up sub panels and big jobs, have someone come in.

I'm lucky my brother in law is a very professional electrician, I always check my plans with him and I do all the work. He'll come and make the connection at the panel just to be safe, but after watching him I'd feel comfortable doing that.

u/yesiamthatman · 8 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Awesome solder sucker. I swear by that thing!


u/desheik · 8 pointsr/malelivingspace

Warm up your kitchen space with a butcher block table, maybe something reclaimed? Consider moving your desk as its the very first thing you see when you walk through the door. The living room/kitchen is a long space so no matter what your living room furniture will be a focal point. It looks like a nice updated apartment, I think an industrial decor with a splash of bohemian conversation pieces would officially make this place baller. Below are two photos that I think you should marry together.



You should find a desk with some character:
(and some wire management wouldn't hurt)

You have some space near the entryway beside the cabinet, I like having a table there to place my keys/wallet/phone when I come home.

You need some huge art. If you have a Buddha in the can, you should have one in the living room!

I like the natural light, but does it feel like an operating room at night with the lights on? You'll need some lamps:
Pair them up with one of these bad boys so the ladies all think you're a rocket surgeon:

You need a place to check out the goods:

The bathroom just needs color, consider more vibrant towels and floor mat.

Last but not least, green. Studies show, people with plants are happier. Consider taking advantage of all the natural light with something like this:

u/Leedubs1 · 8 pointsr/AskMen
u/sarcasticacid · 7 pointsr/rupaulsdragrace

[This] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A0RX2UI/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1497200985&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bidet&dpPl=1&dpID=41KyuEGg5FL&ref=plSrch) is the one I have. "Quick and easy installation" is riggory and buffoonery because it took me all day and like 3 trips to Lowe's (although admittedly I was getting drunk while doing it) but it was so worth it.

u/Lettuce_Addict · 7 pointsr/AnimeFigures

Hope I tagged this correctly, bit of a noob so my bad if I didn't.

From left to right in case someone is curious: Fremy Speeddraw (Rokka no Yuusha), Tsukiko Tsutsukakushi (HenNeko), Ao Nanami (Yozakura Quartet)

I have a couple other figures pre-ordered. Going to get a detolf soon to display them in. Does anyone have suggestions for lighting them? I was thinking of getting something like this but I'm definitely open to suggestions if anyone has more experience in the matter.

edit: added figure names + links

u/closet_otaku_desu · 7 pointsr/AnimeFigures

I'll link the full order:

u/KingOfId · 7 pointsr/woodworking

I've got one of these, it would work great for this.

u/prebres · 7 pointsr/arduino

I have 6 of these: Akro-Mils 10164 64 Drawer Plastic Parts Storage Hardware and Craft Cabinet, 20-Inch by 16-Inch by 6-1/2-Inch, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDH3JC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Qf4fzbJNF7ZWV

u/VillainTricks · 7 pointsr/EDC
u/ambww4 · 7 pointsr/homeautomation

This ballast makes cheap LED strips integrate into your Hue setup. It works perfectly with mine. Check the Amazon comments for details. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/starcade_ · 7 pointsr/XWingTMG

It’s a Stanley professional organizer! Here’s the link

u/ZombieKingKong · 7 pointsr/EDC

get something not so expensive for your first knife. Here's why:

-Get used to it. Carrying it around, deploy and fold, cut fruit at work with it (see your co-worker's faces when you pull it out). Doing this will let you get use to having one (unfortunately, you will probably lose it).

-Use the shit out of it. cut paper, cardboard, pencils, test it out on thin twigs, branches etc.

-Sharpen it. I don't mean with some cheap easy way of doing it like with a sharpmaker; use a sharpening stone, learn the angles.

-Learn to respect it. No matter how careful you think you are, you will eventually cut yourself doing something you feel is the safe way. You will have a new appreciation for this knife.

I recommend either of these knives (learn the different ways knives can be deployed) http://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Tenacious-Handle-Folding-Plain/dp/B001EI7578/ thumb hole deployment

http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1660-Onion-Folding-SpeedSafe/dp/B0009VC9Y0 - speedsafe

http://www.amazon.com/Ontario-8848-Folding-Knife-Black/dp/B0013ASG3E - thumbstud

http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Skyline-Knife-Textured-Handle/dp/B001CZBDF8 - flip

Find how the knives also carry in your pocket (left pocket, right pocket, tip up or tip down).

These should be your first steps into getting and owning your first folding knife.

u/Connguy · 7 pointsr/makemychoice

Edit: for the record, I posted this before the lasybugs thing took off

You're not going to make any great progress on a PC build for that price. Besides, PC tech is changing so quickly, you shouldn't buy any one piece of it until you can buy all of it.

If you're looking for X1 games, I'm a huge fan of Destiny, but it's not for everyone. If you're looking for more of a sure hit, check out Shadows of Mordor or Dragon Age: Inquisition.

If you want to change things up a little, here are some of my favorite purchases (I'm a minor Amazon addict):

u/getElephantById · 7 pointsr/homeowners

I bought this thing on a lark. It's a bendable plastic strip with little teeth to catch on debris. You use it like a snake. It actually works really well to get hair out of there before there's a clog. It's absolutely disgusting, but it does pull lots of hair and other stuff out of the drain.

Edit: product says it's disposable, but I've used the same one for a year and a half; you just have to be willing to clean it after you're done using it.

u/PhenomenalDouche · 7 pointsr/knifeclub

Expected but icky answer: Kershaw Skyline (two words: butter knife)

Good answer: any of a million or so inexpensive CRKT flippers with IKBS, like the odd-looking but fantastic Ikoma Carajas.

Best answer that I know of currently: save $14.89 more and buy a Kizer 3404, then thank me later.

Bonus option I've-never-tried-but-will-at-some-point: a Russian Kizlyar Supreme Biker Z

u/Duke_Spanks · 7 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I've owned the Kershaw G10 Hawk ($15) and the Kershaw Skyline ($34).

Both are nice knives, I consider the G10 an excellent light use knife because it is is light and small. The thumb stud is hard to get purchase on, I took a file and cut a groove in the handle so I could get at it easier, very easy to do.

The Skyline is similar, larger blade, they'll sharpen it for you if you mail it in (I think for free, besides postage), no steel liners in the handle, very easy to open (flipper).

u/credomane · 7 pointsr/techsupportgore

Well I was referring to one of these. Besides if you could plug OP's "finder" into the socket for a stove/drier you have other issues. Those should be using a 3 or 4-prong 240V outlet (in the USA anyhow).

u/nafs_asp · 7 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards


that one is great. I've desoldered complete boards with it.

u/AndrewCamelton · 7 pointsr/Charleston

Honestly people still just don't know what a modern bidet is, they still think its a separate unit entirely like the little sink

I try to explain to people that its $40 on amazon, installs in minutes with no tools, and lives right under your toilet seat. It makes you shower fresh after every poop and you end up saving money over time with the reduced TP/Wet Wipe consumption. It's completely hands free.

I evangelize about bidets like a 1920s automobile owner talking to his horse & buggy neighbor. Ya'll in the past doing it wrong.

What other mess do you NOT bring water into play to clean up?? Especially shit? You can wipe for days but you're never as clean as a constant adjustable stream of water can get you.

Basic model

Hot Water model

u/ARKnife · 7 pointsr/knives

Ontario RAT 1.

Took me a while to find a better quality knife.

u/Beer_Is_So_Awesome · 7 pointsr/knifeclub

I'm really sorry. I worry that something like this will happen whenever I approach a new music venue.

It's probably a bit heavier than your M16, but the Ontario Rat-1 is a really solid, affordable pocket knife for under $30.

It has AUS-8 steel, a broad, deep full-flat-ground blade, bronze phosphor washers in the pivot and a very solid liner-lock.

EDIT: I just remembered that Ontario recently released the Rat-2, which is both smaller and lighter than the Rat-1, and very similar in size to the CRKT M16.

Ontario Rat-2, $27.

u/Cucubert · 7 pointsr/preppers

Maybe take a peek at this too. For travel security, I have been eyeing this and this.

u/CaliMel · 7 pointsr/CalPoly

Ugh. Definitely be careful then. Like seriously, I would suggest ordering those lock things off of Amazon ASAP. It's ballsy to go through someones wallet while they are sleeping right there, so obviously the person has no shame. Make sure you do not keep ANYTHING out that has passwords in it. No diaries. Sleep with your wallet in the bed with you. I would not say a word about it, just install the locks on stuff, and protect your stuff nonchalantly. Also I realize this sounds insane, but if you have credit cards, put a fraud alert on your account. Do not underestimate people. Does your part where your stuff is have a lock on it? you might even talk to the RA about switching rooms just to be safe. I know it'll flame your relationship with your roomies, but you can make new ones and that's some real serious Klepto stuff that will just add way more stress to your life than necessary. If you cannot switch rooms, figure out a way to lock your door. Also, from reading how the locks work in those doors, it looks like you can just open them with the credit card trick, which is REALLY not good. I would for sure figure out a way to lock the door while you are sleeping with one of those bar things that attaches to the door and the floor so that they can't do that and sneak in. It won't help while you are out, but if you lock everything down, they'll move on to your other roommates who presumably have not protected their stuff. Something like this might be good: https://www.amazon.com/Rishon-Enterprises-Inc-I9889-Addalock/dp/B00186URTY?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1and this thing while you are IN the room:



If you have a laptop, get something like this for when you aren't taking it with you. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=laptop+lock&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 It's good to have anyways for when you are using it on campus and need to get up and go to the bathroom or get a coffee.

u/rpfflgt · 7 pointsr/badroommates

Well, if it says you're not allowed to change locks, just add one /r/maliciouscompliance


u/SandyWandy29 · 7 pointsr/ucf

I’m an international student as well and living by myself with no friends/family gave me major anxiety about feeling safe in my first year at UCF. I have this door stopper . It’s cheap and portable. It’s given me back my peace of mind and I’m not worried as much anymore.

I’m sorry this happened to you, and I hope something like this can help you as a precaution and give you some amount of security.

u/lepermessiah57 · 7 pointsr/cigars

Spyderco, Kershaw, benchmade are all quality knives with kershaw being on the lower end. For an every day carry, I love my kershaw skyline, http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Skyline-Knife-Textured-Handle/dp/B001CZBDF8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408630557&sr=8-1&keywords=kershaw+skyline

It's relatively cheap, good blade style, light, solid steel.

u/VaguePeeSmell · 6 pointsr/knives
u/NoRedditAtWork · 6 pointsr/knifeclub

Clearing things up a bit here, what folks are trying to do is:

A) Not be rude and say that's a garbage knife. The Golden Rule of Knives as far as I'm concerned is that the best knife you have is the one you have on you when you need it. If you have nothing else - high five - that'll do.

B) If you like the skull pattern and whatnot, that's awesome - whatever floats your boat. Most knives you'll see posted here aren't as gaudy or 'mall ninja' (see /r/mallninjashit for an idea of what that means). Knives like that though generally tend to be cheap in both the materials used and the QC for the finished product.

C) There are much better knives you could purchase for $35. Where did you even find that for $35? I wasn't able to find it on Amazon for that price and, relative to what I was seeing listed there, that knife should be ~<$20.

The Spyderco Tenacious is $35 from Amazon right now and is a great starting knife. Some options from Kershaw include the Leek, Skyline or a variety of other models. Someone also mentioned the Ontario Rat 1 which I don't have experience with myself, but is a widely loved knife at the price point. You can also check the $0-100 suggested knife guide for more options.

TL;DR: I don't want to make you feel bad for having that knife, but the $35 could have gotten you better steel, ergonomics and end product quality spent elsewhere.

u/pdb1975 · 6 pointsr/EDC

Dat G19. Big enough to be a real gun, small enough to pack everywhere.

You need a better knife, though. What's "expensive" to you? $27? $35? Another one for $35

u/palejolie · 6 pointsr/myfavoritemurder

For those that travel for a living... this is what I use. Apparently the door jammer has been known to slide on certain surfaces. The Addalock doesn’t! I love it.


u/JAI82 · 6 pointsr/CCW

>We will also be staying at Air BnBs, which is another concern of mine. Not only would they not have security or anything like a hotel, someone else definitely has keys. I think a door brace would be too bring to take with me, is there anything else I should look into? A door wedge, alarm, etc?

You might be looking for something like this.

u/SwampHusky · 6 pointsr/worldnews

Many of them hook into the cold/hot water pipe from your sink. So if the toilet is next to the sink in the bathroom, you install a T and that's where it gets the water.

Some are cold water only, some take both and mix it. Most come with a "clean" function, for cleaning the nozzle. If you do that first while you're sitting there, it'll bring that warm water into the bidet so you don't get blasted with ice cold water.


u/Dc5e · 6 pointsr/shutupandtakemymoney

You could just get one that has both hot and cold water. The only difference is that the hot water is tee'd off the sink's hot water line. The hot and cold models usually comes with all the hardware you need (extra long tube to reach the faucet and a tee for typical faucet connections).

I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/Luxe-Bidet-Neo-320-Non-Electric/dp/B00A0RX2UI

u/Bockon · 6 pointsr/assholedesign

There are fairly inexpensive models that have a hot water supply line as well. It isn't difficult to install. How much TP can you get for $68?

I don't have lady bits, so, I can't really give honest input on that.

u/grtechtank · 6 pointsr/retrogaming

Parts Needed Purchase Link

T-Molding https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074X9JNSX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Arcade buttons, Joystick, and usb adapter to connect buttons to raspberry PI https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arcade-LED-Control-kit-Compatible-with-Raspberry-PI-3-Plug-and-Play-Image-Incl/331814081782?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Speakers (any desktop speakers will work) https://www.amazon.com/Cyber-Acoustics-multimedia-computer-speakers/dp/B00008MN45/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=speakers+desktop&qid=1562183686&s=electronics&sr=1-9

Arcade cabinet (with no decals) https://www.ebay.com/itm/Extra-Wide-Bartop-Arcade-Cabinet-Kit-Black-Easy-Assembly-for-22-Monitor/392268680930?hash=item5b55090ee2:g:F24AAOSwS2lcOjaJ

Decals for cabinet (you specify what artwork to use, or use their existing artwork) https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arcade-Cabinet-Sticker-Kits-Custom-Made-Bartop-Decals-Vinyl-Graphics-Full-Set/173334849324?epid=23015913882&hash=item285b8fe72c:g:9F4AAOSwMOVcNheB

22 inch monitor (any 22 inch 1080P monitor will work) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019EFMK1I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Light Strip for Marquee https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

128GB flash Drive https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BGTG2A0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

256GB SD Card (if you buy an SD card this large, then you don't need the 128GB Flash drive) https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-MicroSDXC-Adapter-MB-ME256GA-AM/dp/B072HRDM55/ref=sxin_3_osp5-d036f8df_cov?ascsubtag=d036f8df-8c95-431e-8004-07311ffa309b&creativeASIN=B072HRDM55&cv_ct_id=amzn1.osp.d036f8df-8c95-431e-8004-07311ffa309b&cv_ct_pg=search&cv_ct_wn=osp-search&keywords=sd+card&linkCode=oas&pd_rd_i=B072HRDM55&pd_rd_r=07e8feba-c265-4983-af93-5e16e7fd7b3b&pd_rd_w=FRnfg&pd_rd_wg=Ycuqv&pf_rd_p=43ba9e17-96f5-4491-b054-e546013f7dc4&pf_rd_r=9M7304BJA5B896489032&qid=1562184521&s=gateway&tag=androidcentralosp-20

Raspberry Pi https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-MS-004-00000024-Model-Board/dp/B01LPLPBS8

Raspberry Pi Case https://www.amazon.com/iUniker-Raspberry-Cooling-Heatsink-Removable/dp/B079M96KWZ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=PI+case&qid=1562183618&s=electronics&sr=1-3

Surge Protector https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LZ5XMU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Arcade Game off/on switch https://www.ebay.com/itm/2BC3-250V-Arcade-Game-Machine-ON-OFF-Switch-Power-Socket-Module-with-Fuse-Parts/312633073711?hash=item48ca62202f:g:eh0AAOSwuHJc7ngf

Power plug for arcade game off/on switch https://www.amazon.com/TNP-Universal-Power-Cord-Feet/dp/B01EYDGO12/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=desktop+power+plug&qid=1562183995&s=electronics&sr=1-3

u/tripp- · 6 pointsr/macsetups

Ultimately, use the space you have; mitigate the clutter that exist on the real estate you have at your disposal. Made a small list of affordable items you can buy (one at a time, if need be):

small shelving unit

extended mouse pad

LED strips (best behind the desk)

velcro cable ties

Recommend a monitor and laptop stand to keep your eye level in-line with your displays.

Good luck!

EDIT: Formatting is hard

u/odd84 · 6 pointsr/pics

The top selling stud finder on Amazon is just a magnet in a plastic holder.


u/BoxDropCroissant · 6 pointsr/BabyBumps

the best stud finder ever

  • this is NOT a risky click 😉
u/jdogherman · 6 pointsr/volt

the EVSE is detecting that the outlet is not wired as it expects. Do you have an outlet tester? Maybe something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU

u/0110010001100010 · 6 pointsr/HomeImprovement
u/congelar · 6 pointsr/techsupportgore

> Even if you have polarized plugs, like in the US, you can't even be sure that the electricians wired the outlet the right way around.

Don't trust, test.

u/logmeinbro · 6 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Grab one of these and check outlets around your house.

u/bbenson · 6 pointsr/backpacking

I'm a big fan of the Leatherman Skeletool.

You can get it relatively cheaply if you look around online a bit.

It's not full of stuff you will never use. It's got a nice sized blade, reliable pliers, and a solid carabiner clip (that's also a bottle opener) to keep it from going anywhere.

u/j000p · 6 pointsr/EDC

Phone: iPhone 5c + cheap Spigen case

Watch: Seiko SKX007 + Super Oyster II Bracelet

Wallet: Radix One

Keychain: Remove Before Flight tag, Sandisk Ultra Fit, Dollar Store Carabiner

Keychain Multitool: Victorinox Classic OR Leatherman Micra

Multitool: Leatherman Skeletool

Flashlight: Streamlight Microstream

Pen: Fisher Space Pen OR Modded Zebra 701

Yoyo: The Sage (for now)

First post, any questions or suggestions please feel free. Thanks guys!

u/Zak · 6 pointsr/EDC
u/nonya-in · 6 pointsr/AskElectronics

Since this is apparently affecting more than one device you should first check the outlet. Get one of these and test that the outlet is properly wired. It sounds like there may be voltage present on your ground (that would be bad). Or if you aren't comforatble testing yourself hire an electrician. This is potentially dangerous.

u/abhikavi · 6 pointsr/RealEstate

You can buy a little device very cheaply to tell you if three-prong outlets are grounded. If they're probably not even grounded the lazy way (to the outlet box) and simply have a wire missing, you could repair this yourself for <$10.

Obviously two-prong outlets will not be grounded. That's a convenience issue, but not a safety issue. The lack of GFI outlets in the kitchen (or bath, or anywhere near water) could be a safety issue, and that would be the one thing I think it'd be reasonable to ask the landlord to do. GFI outlets are ~$10 apiece and those can safely be grounded to their box as well.

u/rdepalma · 6 pointsr/Comcast

I think you might need an electrician. To me, it sounds like something is shorting the coax with the electrical outlet. You indicated when he tugged on the coax, a breaker tripped.
Right there, that set off flags as I was reading it. The problem may not be in the outlet right next to where he was working, but somewhere up the line from there.

I would start with a voltage tester like this
and go from there.

If the problem is electrical, comcast wont touch it (even if they caused it, but good luck proving that).

u/price-scot · 6 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

this pump is great

I had the cheap one, and this one blows it out of the water

u/Ironzey · 6 pointsr/homeautomation

GE switches are what I recommend.
They have switches, On/Off.
They have dimmers, On/Off and dim brighten (hold up to brighten or hold down to dim not too hard)
They have fan controller. Four speeds, low, medium, high and off. (sorry, no reverse)


You might want to reconsider the double triple tap option. It nice to be able to control something unrelated using a "secret switch". Triple tap to restart a computer by chance. Triple tap to turn off all the light in your place.

I only have one of the homeseer switches and don't regret the purchase. My switch control the lights in our loft (on/off/dim/brighten), double tap controls lights that are connected to a plugin module. Triple tap is used to play a test sound that I use to test the volume of house alerts.

It's great that you are thinking of other folks who will be using the system. Not everyone wants to pull out a phone to turn on a light.

I prefer dimmers to on/off switches. The light ramps up gracefully. Now, I find the on/off to be very jarring.

Motion sensors, I've found the monoprice units to be just fine. They've been reliable and include a temperature sensor. I've had a few of these for years and have yet to replace a battery. The best price I've found on theses.

u/TheChaoticDoctor · 6 pointsr/KingkillerChronicle

I've got roughly 3lb's of chessex dice; I use this to store them all at this point. But thank you for the offer. :)

u/jmblock2 · 6 pointsr/santashelpers

Has he applied for any jobs yet? I was given one of those leather pads with paper inside and a holder for resumes (something like this) except it was from my undergrad university with their emblem. Definitely gives you some confidence for interviews and recruiting sessions. Also you can get him some nice resume paper to go with it. That lasted me for years.

I also enjoyed having one or two of these demotivational posters in my room. Depends on his humor and if he has barren walls like I did.

If you know more details about which raspberry pi he has, you could get some shield extensions. These are boards that expand its capabilities. There are also newer boards with better specs. Also with two boards you can of course make them talk to each other ;)

Depends on his area of interest and your budget, but you could get him some kind of [introductory FPGA kit] (http://store.digilentinc.com/fpga-programmable-logic/) or DE0-Nano.

Tools... so many tools he might be interested in. USB logic analyzers are so cheap these days and go well with hobby boards. Again not sure your budget, so you can go all sorts of ranges here (Open Workbench Logic Sniffer or scanaplus or Saleae Logic 8 or a china clone of Saleae Logic 8). Saleae or the knockoff I think are the better options for the software compatibility. He may be in need of a soldering iron or a multimeter.

Something else unique, you could get him a "gift card" (they don't really sell them) or an IOU to a PCB printing service. Ask him to design his own board and you'll pay $X of the service. You'll want to make sure he knows the price structure on the website because they charge per square inch and it depends on his design how many layers he may need. He makes the schematic and they will print some circuit boards for him. They won't mount the parts, just do the schematic and he would have to hand solder the components.

If he likes old videogames you could get him some old school USB controllers and tell him to install lakka on his rasberry pi, or just get him a new Raspberry Pi3 to dedicate it as an old-school console emulator. It is quite impressive how many consoles they have emulated.

And back to more tools... more micro screwdriver bits than you would actually need. You can get him a starter pack of resistors, capacitors, and other assorted electronics sparkfun. There are also so many buttons, switches, LED screen displays, etc. that he probably wouldn't want to buy on his own. Maybe you could get a container with an assortment of circuit components (resistors, capacitors, transistors, and other sensors). Careful! This can add up real quick. All types of sensors exist... ultrasonic rangefinder, stress, photocell, temperature, etc. etc. endless!.

u/NathCraft27 · 6 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Oh for sure! What's your price range?

For under 40$ some great options would be the Kershaw Leek , the Kershaw Cryo (the Cryo II is a bit larger for almost the same price if you prefer) or anything Kershaw really. You could also look for Sanrenmu knives, they're good for the price.

If you're really serious and you're looking for better quality, I recommend the Spyderco Delica (smaller), the Spyderco Endura (larger) or the Benchmade Griptilian (mini or full size, your choice). I own a mini Griptilian and I love it, I really recommend it if you can justify the price.

u/Quiet_Dev · 6 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I have two recommendations that have never failed me within that price range and bring a lot to the table for the price:

The Delica4 by Spyderco which is large and stays sharp. It can cut and cut and just won't stop. I use this for my outdoor activities where a pocket knife can be used with some abuse. Also has a great grip on it which comes in a multitude of colors. Only knife better by them in my opinion is the paramilitary 2 for about $100 more.

The Ken Onion designed Leek by Kershaw is my gentleman's knife. Very sharp straight out of the box and won't fail you. Much smaller than the Delica4 by equally as trustworthy. Super fast deploy speed and fits in the pocket nicely with or without the clip. Kershaw is known for cheaply priced big bang for your buck knives that just keep on going...and if you lose it, your wallet doesn't feel it. First folder I bought a few years ago and it is still my go-to most days.

u/CyclingFlux · 6 pointsr/NYCbike

I feel your pain. If I were in your shoes I’d sure as hell want to bring my bike into my apartment too.

I’ve got two bikes I switch between regularly, and recently got this from Amazon. It’s right against the wall just inside my apartment, so I can hang them up and take them down easily just as I’m coming and going.

Don’t worry about hanging your bike by the rim of a wheel. Unless your frame is made out of ultra dense material from a collapsed star and weighs a ton you’ll be fine. I wouldn’t discount a pulley system with the ceiling, even if it’s tall either. Installation would certainly be a pain, but worth it once you got it done. I’ve seen some innovative setups on YouTube, you can look there for some inspiration and brainstorming. It’s also possible you could make something just to fit your needs in a DIY project. Before I bought my rack I was contemplating following some instructions online to make one myself out of $50 or so of PVC pipe or wood from a hardware store. Good luck with whatever you choose.

u/grewapair · 6 pointsr/bikecommuting

A friend of mine gave me this bike stand, which leans against the wall at the top with a non-marking plastic piece and has non marking plastic feet. It has never fallen over or marked anything. The only problem is the handlebars will hit the wall, so I had to put fabric behind it.

It doubles as a repair stand for the top bike. But it doesn't have your storage, which I like a lot.

u/belloman · 6 pointsr/malelivingspace

This one

It just leans against the wall -- no drilling necessary.

u/jaredharley · 6 pointsr/AskReddit

These Zip-It drain cleaners work wonders, and the crap it pulls out is absolutely vile. No need to use nasty caustic chemicals.

u/__Why · 5 pointsr/declutter

Strap in, this got kind of long! I hope it's useful to someone.

I too have the "need a lot of bins and boxes and whatnot" situation because of my and my partner's hobbies. I sew and crochet and embroider and work with leather, and he works with electronics and 3d printers and so on. We share a small (10' x 10') room for our workspace and all of our most commonly accessed supplies.

Being someone who gets fixated on ideas frequently, I suggest that you open up your search to other options other than interlocking boxes. The reason I say this is that I am surrounded by bins and have been working with various sized bins to access things for a long time and I am tired of them. The problem is similar to what many other posters have mentioned: Getting items out of the boxes (even if they are small) is an Ordeal, especially if you have multiple boxes out, or if the box is very full and hard to put back together.

In general, a rule of thumb is to think about how you'll put your item away rather than how you'll access it. When we want access to something, it doesn't seem like a big deal to undo bins, bags, boxes, slide heavy things around, etc. because we get a reward at the end (yay, it's the thing! shiny!). After that, the idea of undoing all that stuff seems like a pain in the arse, and we just don't want to do it? (and what if we might need another thing from that bin? So, consider how you'll put it away, rather than how you'll get it out when designing a storage solution.

So, I am now moving away from the lidded box approach and encouraging my partner to do the same. Having watched Adam Savage's video describing first order retrievability, I am moving in that direction (although not yet to his ninjery level). Here's the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWQAYfGxsPE.

I suggest the following types of storage for smaller objects. Bins still work OK for larger objects but someday I'd like to move away from that too.

  • Akro-Mills Parts organization drawers. They come in many different sizes and types. They are durable, versatile, come with their own drawer dividers, they are wall mountable or usable on a desktop surface. We use these for all of the objects we reach for frequently for different applications (memory cards, bulldog clips, popsicle sticks, magnets, command hooks). https://www.amazon.com/Akro-Mils-10144-20-Inch-16-Inch-Hardware/dp/B003P2UOCO

  • Stanley Organizer boxes. These boxes are extremely useful when you have a lot of tiny objects of different sizes to sort (like nuts, bolts and hardware or amigurumi eyes). There are bins in each storage thing that are fully re-arrangeable and removable - you can get several of these and customize each one to your needs and then pull out just the little bins you're interested in to work on. These have their place, but are best used as 'project' or 'many of one type' oriented storage https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-25-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B00005QWYF

  • This video on using plastic bins as drawers. I did this for my two 4' workbenches and I love it. This allows me to quickly swap out project specific bins if I need to, and I now have the ease of access of drawers with the containerized pleasure of bins. I use these drawers every day for things like webbing and elastic storage, crochet hook storage, sewing machine accessories, sewing patterns, etc. I have currently taken to reserving one bin per workbench as a trash can and omg is that useful to have an in-table trash can - I'm thinking of drilling a hole in my benchtop so I can just swipe bits and pieces directly into the trash. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kjyg6RWDlZw

  • Pegboard / slat wall. I personally like the metal Wall Control brand because I have a love affair with magnets. I use this for thread storage (I can thread my machine directly from the wall, without moving spools around!), bobbin storage, clips, pins, tape that gets used daily (painters, duct, electrical, etc), instant access tools are mounted on magnetic bars attached to the board. I also stuck magnets on the back of a bunch of stuff (empty soup cans, plastic bins from the stanley boxes, thread locker, sewing machine oil, etc) and now I can just kind of throw those items at the board and they stick. Extremely efficient and functional. The various hooks and things are also highly useful. Comes in many different sizes and shapes (and colors!) with accessory kits optimized for different situations. https://www.amazon.com/Wall-Control-30-WGL-200GVB-Galvanized-Organizer/dp/B002LZSWFW

  • A tool chest (even if you don't have "normal tools"). We use this for hand tools - it is really nice to have screw drivers, wrenches, utility knives and tape measures at our finger tips. Ours holds a ton of stuff, fits on our metro wire shelving perfectly, and has held up like a champ in the 3 years we have it. Also it's metal, so I can stick things to it with magnets. We have this one: https://www.amazon.com/Excel-TB2105X-Blue-26-Inch-Steel-Chest/dp/B002BETIQA
u/alfredbordenismyname · 5 pointsr/knives

Look at the Kershaw Leek, its got a good 3 inch blade, it practically disappears in your pocket, is basically a modern gentlemen's folder, and can get it in several different colors. Its one of the most popular knives out there and is well made. Only thing to watch out for is the tip, its very thin and can break off if you try and use it as a pry bar. You can find the leek for about 40-60 bucks depending on the model.

Link - Kershaw Leek

If you're looking for something heavier duty, the Kershaw Blur or Freefall would be good buys. I use a freefall as one of my EDC knives and think its a great buy for the money. The blur is very well regarded as well, though I don't have experience with one myself.

Link for Blur

Link for Freefall

If you don't absolutely need the spring assist, another idea would be a Spyderco Delica 4, or perhaps a Spyderco Persistence if you want a little cheaper price. Both are solid knives for the money and aren't too bulky in the pocket. You can get the Delica in colors too!

Link for Delica 4

Link for Persistence

u/EbayNachos · 5 pointsr/knives

>Perhaps because most people just clip them to their belts

I respectfully disagree, I would say most people pocket carry.

For a very think knife the Kershaw Leek is very thin.

u/Bonheim · 5 pointsr/intj

I carry this Kershaw Needs Work as my etc, and this smaller CRKT when I'm at work in nice clothes.

u/my_toesies · 5 pointsr/askportland

We've been happy with this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ACAM38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_USLpyb9PP30V0. Only complaint is it rubs paint off the wall if you aren't careful. Super easy to use and always moveable if you have a different spot in mind

u/r0rsch4ch · 5 pointsr/NYCbike

I suggest getting some kind of bike rack for the apartment in the future. My wife and I live in a small 1 bedroom apartment and manage to store 2 full size bikes on one. I hope you find it. Anything left outside will be stolen/vandalized given enough time.

u/The_Wee · 5 pointsr/malelivingspace

Maybe something like Delta Cycle Michelangelo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ACAM38/

u/Lars9 · 5 pointsr/homeowners

Before paying someone to come out, try using a zip it. It's cheap and could get all of the junk out very easily.

u/Joanie_of_Arc · 5 pointsr/AskWomen

Have you ever seen one of these? They work really great at pulling hair up out of the tub drain, even if there isn't a clog. Being proactive and all that shit.

u/skelebone · 5 pointsr/WTF

Looks like it works on the same principle as the Zip-It Drain cleaner


u/asok0 · 5 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Stop right there.

Buy this.

You can also find it in home depot. There is no need to take off the drain. I am guessing someone in your house has long hair. You will need to do this often.

You can thank me later.

u/zwbenedict · 5 pointsr/homeassistant
  • 433mhz Transmitter with Etekcity Outlets

    -I followed BRUH Automation's tutorial to set this up. I immediately reprogrammed the outlets to custom codes. Home Assistant now has sole control over the outlets and I can re purpose the remote to be used for other commands

  • 433mhz Receiver with Etekcity Outlet Remotes

    -I currently use the remotes to control automations within HomeAssistant. When I push a button on the remote, it is received by the 433mhz rx that is connected to a NodeMCU. The NodeMCU takes the signal received and published the rf code to an MQTT topic. Home assistant is subscribed to that topic. I look for the payload of each published topic and if it matches the button I pressed it will run an automation.

  • 433mhz Motion Sensor

    -These broadcast a rf signal that is also received in the same fashion as the Etekcity Remotes do. Then published via MQTT from the NodeMCU.

  • Hue Bridge

    -I am currently using 2 white bulbs, 1 bloom, and 1 colored bulb. They are spread out across multiple rooms. I absolutely love the control you have with this product!

  • IR LED

    -The NodeMCU is subscribed to a topic that Home Assistant will published to when I tell it to trigger. This is currently in use to turn on the TV, Soundbar, and tower fan via Alexa. "Alexa, Turn on the tv" - runs a script in HA to publish to a MQTT topic. NodeMCU grabs the payload, my code determines the device, and blasts the signal - turning the TV on/off

  • IR Receiver

    -The TV remote has many useless buttons on it. I use these to also send commands to Home Assistant. For instance, I push button '1' on the remote. The NodeMCU processes the value received, publishes it via MQTT, Home Assistant looks at that payload and runs the corresponding automation - turning on the lamp in the living room.

  • Amazon Echo Dot

    -I currently use this with the emulated hue component. It works great for what I currently want it to do!
u/parksddd · 5 pointsr/amazonecho

This with this and this will do what you are doing without the soldering iron.

I've got a fake wemo device defined, that triggers the broadlink to send RF or IR commands to any compatible device.
This, these, and these work really well for us.

u/BerZirx · 5 pointsr/Vive

I have my entire vive setup (both base stations and link box) connected to a remote outlet I bought on Amazon.


I turn them on with a press of a button only when I use my vive. It works great! If you can, I recommend doing this so the stations and headset aren't always getting power.

u/aka_Ani · 5 pointsr/AskEngineers

Depending on where you land on the spectrum of make something from scratch -> just buy something, this might be applicable:
There are a number of different brands and designs available too

All you have to do is plug in your appliance into one of these and set up one of the buttons on the remote to control it. You can control up to 5 things with one remote and it uses RF not infrared so you don't have to point it in any particular direction.

I use them quite a bit. You can go beyond the 5 device remote control if you're willing to get your hands dirty a bit. The protocol used in the communication is very straightforward and you can make your own RF remote that can send a more diverse set of signals that will let you control even more devices. I've taken if even further by having my custom remote connect to the home WiFi and now I can trigger the outlets from my phone, it's pretty handy!

u/redlotusaustin · 5 pointsr/homeautomation

I'd go with a magnetic reed switch and some LED strips:

u/Miami_SH · 5 pointsr/funkopop

Nice collection! Just a little suggestion. Maybe consider adding light strips like these to the bottom of the top shelf so you could see all the Pops on the bottom shelf

u/oldcrow · 5 pointsr/3Dprinting

Here is my CR-10S.

I added the Petsfang fan fang. Added this fan to the fang.

I added these Z-Axis braces. Added these LEDs to the Z-Braces.

I'm printing on a mirror tile with a sheet of PEI bonded to it.

Last week I added the TH3D EZABL and have been encouraged by the results. It creates a Z-offset map of the build plate before every print. I can see the Z-steppers move during X-Y moves so I can tell it's working. Manual bed-leveling was working OK for smaller prints, but I could never get all 4 corners to agree with the center height. I suspect my aluminum bed plate is shaped like a Pringles chip.
I really like the Marlin Firmware over the OEM version. I don't mind not having auto-resume since I plugged my printer into a UPS system.

Right now my printer is about 20 hours into a 60-hour print of a T-Rex skull. I've been really happy with this printer! It was my first and I've been having a ball with it.

u/myredditworkaccount · 5 pointsr/Hue

I've not tried this myself but I think you can use this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/

u/Drzapwashere · 5 pointsr/homeautomation

I am in the process of installing the LED strips and controllers below. Tested end to end setup last night and they work as expected. RGB+WW. No surprises. Also included the matching channels with diffusers.

Hope this helps!

LEDENET RGBWW LED Strip 4 Colors... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VIKAWWC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Wireless electronic ballast... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

LED Aluminum Channel Wide 10-Pack... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FDV1RH9?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/sga_john_sheppard · 5 pointsr/homeautomation

You can find ZigBee controllers that you can sync with the Philips Hue bridge like this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NMSQ4QQ

Been using this with 10m of led strip, it shows up in the hue app so you can make scenes with other lights and can control it from Google or Alexa.

u/jsmayne · 5 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

wallet in front pocket leatherman in back pocket

funny enough the leatherman is usually worth more than the cash I'm carrying

u/SJToIA · 5 pointsr/knifeclub

The Ontario RAT1 might be a good choice for your first blade. It's an incredibly good knife for the price. Check out the reviews. I highly recommend it, it's a great value:
If you want something with a cord/strap cutter feature, you might like the SOG Trident:
Kershaw is another brand you might like, there are many great models in your price range. There are other good choices out there as well. Check out the sidebar for the Knife Recommendation Guide

u/JbonesC4 · 5 pointsr/insaneparents

There’s also this, OP.

u/KikiMoon · 5 pointsr/JUSTNOMIL

I say this with a bit of pettiness and a lot of “be prepared for her craziness”:

[Portable door lock](Addalock - (1 Piece ) The Original Portable Door Lock, Travel Lock, AirBNB Lock, School Lockdown Lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00186URTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2QZ2DbZXWEKEM)

u/wikkid7798 · 5 pointsr/knives

Kershaw skyline

Kershaw chill

Both are great edc knives. Chill is small but tough (not tiny though) perfect if you work in an office.
Skyline is a great overall. My work edc.

Buy 2 of either one, if you manage to break one you have a backup while the factory fixes the other.

u/Silverlight42 · 5 pointsr/lifehacks

there's some good stuff in there.

I'd like to add a couple that aren't so well known.

You can actually heat up the plastic water bottles it mentions right on your campfire coals... it's not going to melt, surprisingly.


also for clothing, I like they mentioned wool -- really great even if it gets wet... but they didn't mention layers. This is important. You don't want to sweat when it's cold out, so if you're active you gotta shed some layers.

also use your spare grocery bags from home to wrap everything up in, especially clothes... just in case things get wet.

oh and silicone spray is great for water repellent, be it your jacket, boots or tent. Don't buy the "special water repellent stuff", it's just silicone spray. You'll save a couple bucks.

As far as hatchets/knives... you don't need anything big. You might think you do but you really don't. I would recommend a good brand like Benchmade or Kershaw. A regular pocket knife like that is gonna do all you need -- just don't use it as a prybar please.

oh and hobo stoves are pretty cool.

so is a rocket stove -- though the one here is kinda elaborate -- you can dig a hole in the ground and accomplish the same thing you just need the basic shape, airflow. really low fuel and insane concentrated heat from them.

oh and a hoopy frood always knows where his towel's at.

u/listen2 · 5 pointsr/knives


A little more than your gift card, but it's worth it. Well worth it.

u/you-down-with-CIP · 5 pointsr/TheBrewery

Been pretty happy with Kershaw knives as my everyday carry; using the Kershaw Skyline at the moment and it's lasted a few years with minimal maintenance.

Stopped carrying multi-tools in the brewery a long time ago. They weigh a ton, cost a lot, and are usually a poor substitute for the tool I really need. If I really need a pair of pliers/screwdriver/wire stripper, I just walk my happy ass over to the tool chest and get the right tool for the job.

u/Koooooj · 5 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

It's possible, but if that's the case then your house is wired seriously, seriously wrong. I doubt that you'd notice it with a phone charger.

When I moved into a house a couple decades ago it was wired very very poorly. Ground was hooked up on hot wires, polarity was reversed, ground was left dangling, you name it. The previous owner fancied himself a handyman and he really, really wasn't.

If you have reason to suspect that you have wiring problems then it's easy to check. Most big hardware stores sell a device like this which will automatically detect if your outlets are wired correctly when plugged in. They're only a few bucks which is likely cheaper than whatever device a faulty outlet might destroy.

If your phone seems to be taking odd amounts of time to charge first make sure that you're using the same charger in each (some chargers put out more power than others) and if you are then try a more scientific test (same software load, same amount of screen on-time, same start and end battery percentage). It's quite likely that it's just in your head, but the only way to be sure is to do some science!

u/Aeroflux · 5 pointsr/oculus

It's overkill until the lack of having one bricks your PC power supply (or worse). I've had APC units for over thirteen years now. I use their surge bars for equipment that won't be bothered by a sudden drop, and a couple UPS units for everything else, including a front projector. You want to talk about dire consequences with a blackout, the projector bulb can pop without the cool-down phase. That's ~$350 a bulb.

Electronics aren't just sensitive to surge, line noise and under-voltage can also damage them. PC power supplies can regulate voltage to an extent, but I'd rather have something else step in when electricity gets funky. I remember one voltage drop caused half of my power adapters in the house to die. That was a good day for the scalpers at radio-shack.

APC has given me nothing but good experiences. One of the UPS units was toasted by a powerful surge--I used to live in tornado alley, we had storms that exceeded 600 lightning strikes an hour. It took them about a week (total turnaround) to replace it under warranty. They even offered to replace my really old UPS unit with a brand new one for cheap. Now I have a fast-reacting 900 joules capacity single-plug surge protector on the main UPS as a backup to the backup. Hey, it was ten bucks, why not?

Another thing I do is test the outlets with one of these every time I move to a new location. I've encountered enough bad wiring to pick up a healthy paranoia. :)

u/evanrly · 5 pointsr/audioengineering

Qbox, cable checker, XLR barrels [F-F,M-M,Phase reverse, -20&-50db pads, ground lift, ISO barrel], AC Wiring Tester, XLR Y's, 1/4 male to XLR-F and M, 1/8" to rca/xlr/1/4, NL4&NL8 barrels. Batteries, and more batteries.

Those seem to be my essentials, and get used the most. Probably forgetting something.

u/lazerbeamspewpew · 5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I actually had put this up on mechmarket last week before I decided I wanted to keep the case but change out the switches. I originally had BOX Burnt Oranges in here, which I found to be too heavy, so I desoldered them and put in 67g Zealios—MUCH better. The process was actually pretty painless due to this solder sucker—HIGHLY recommended. The PCB is a DZ60, and the case is from Shenzhen YMD (I believe he is sold out at the moment). The stabs are genuine cherry, of course, and have been clipped and lubed. Keycaps are GMK Muted. The low profile case works great with cherry profile keycaps.

u/papyrusinthewild · 5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

"Build log" (mostly pictures) is in the imgur album.

This started off as a stock WASD V2 with Cherry MX Clear switches. I bought a 55g uniform RealForce not long after, and that has been my daily driver pretty much ever since. I actually thought I might just sell the WASD for whatever I could get for it.

I decided instead to go for the ergo clear mod, which sounds absolutely fantastic on the videos I've seen here, here, and others on YouTube. I also decided that while I had the case all apart I would add dampening foam to it and paint it to go with the SA carbon I just received.

Paint and clear coat for the case were from the local hardware store. I found the dampening foam on Amazon. I also picked up a Hakko tip cleaner and Engineer solder sucker from Amazon. The 62g gold springs and lubes are from Mehkee. They were out of their kits, but the lubes that are in the kit are all sold separately on their site, so no problemo.

The whole thing took about a week, give or take, and it was very tedious, to say the least. But the outcome has been simply spectacular. The ergo clears are so buttery smooth, and they sound awesome with SA doubleshot caps. I think the case color came out great. The WASD is now feeling a whole lot more premium!

Edit: this video was super helpful for the case painting.

Edit: here is the “before” post - https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/76s7rx/is_it_worth_it_to_do_the_ergo_clear_mod_on_a_wasd/?st=JFBLDQYL&sh=a9f5b0f2

u/SpecCRA · 5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Yes, this is the right place! Here's a few things to help you.

  • You want this sucker. The cheaper ones are a pain in the ass. There is one replacement tube that it comes with, and here's a link for more.

  • Here's a link to a video guide. It takes a little bit of practice, but it's not terribly difficult.

  • Have a fan going or get a solder fume extractor!

  • Amazon has kits you can buy to practice, but it's not THAT difficult.

    The only tip I have is use your solder sucker in your strong hand and the iron in your other. I have much better hand control with my right, so I can more accurately place the solder sucker to take it out in one or two tries. Oh, and easy on the caffeine! You don't want shaky hands while doing this.
u/ruhe · 5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Build Log 5: Viterbi


u/CathyTheGreatsHorse · 5 pointsr/SmartThings

I have z-wave GE wall switches that work fine. You can usually find something in the amazon reviews that will indicate what success (or lack of it) other people have had. Lurking this sub is another good way to see what works for others.

As sauky said, check the smartthings list on the st website

The GE switches and dimmers were fussy getting them "paired" with the hub. But I have probably five different brands of stuff and none of it was immune to pairing troubles. I would just make sure whatever you get has favorable reviews.

u/Alwayssunnyinarizona · 5 pointsr/homeautomation

GE: [zwave] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2) or [zwave+] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R) and a [slave switch] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-STANDALONE-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ).

Edit: where were you planning on putting the motion sensor? GE/Jasco has combined motion sensing switches that work quite well out. 26931 and 26933 are the product numbers.

u/sixbux · 5 pointsr/SuddenlyGay

I have the bidet in the link and 100% vouch for it. Easy install and your life will never be the same.


u/cgowens · 5 pointsr/Frugal

Zip-It Drain Cleaning Tool: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BO9204/

I've had issues with recurring drain clogs at the last two rentals I've lived in. Once or twice a month, I'd run to Wal-Mart and buy a jug or two of the six-dollar Gel/Foamer/Whatever product that Drano recommends for recurring clogs, in an effort to avoid having to take showers while standing in a three-inch pool of filth. And then, after googling around for awhile, I found this product--which is available at Wal-Mart for about three bucks. Used it on every drain in my house, nearly puked in amazement at the toxic mess that it managed to yank out of my pipes, and it's been now been three years since I've had any problem whatsoever.

u/NinjaCoder · 5 pointsr/DIY

We use one of these to remove the shower drain wookiees at our house.

u/TheMantelope · 5 pointsr/lifehacks

I use this magnetic stud finder: Totally Non-Risky Click I Swear

u/DesolationRobot · 5 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I second.

I have Franklin, but a magnet is still my preferred method. This guy is well worth the $10 if you don't just have rare earth magnets lying around. Cheap $10 electronic stud finders, however, are not worth anything.

u/kwalb · 5 pointsr/DIY

Electric stud finders are shit. Buy this wonderful little magnet and wave it over a wall until it sticks. This will effectively just find the studs by finding the nails in the studs and sticking to them, then you know your stud location and you can move up and down on that to find the height you want.

Seriously. It works every single time, I hang mine on a piece of dental floss so I can swing it around on the wall until it sticks on it’s own.

It costs $7 and will prevent your tv from falling off of the wall.

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FJNNDbVDS7NAQ

u/JamesRiav · 5 pointsr/beadsprites

I recently purchased an Akro-Mils 64-drawer, and it has been absolutely magnificent. Each drawer comfortably stores a 1000 count bag of beads, with some room to spare. There is no back on the unit, which I thought was odd at first, but this has not been an issue in use. All in all, it has ended up being a really solid option for this hobby.

Akro-Mils 10164 64 Drawer Plastic Parts Storage Hardware and Craft Cabinet, 20-Inch by 16-Inch by 6-1/2-Inch, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDH3JC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Edit: Added some details 😊

u/ZIIIIIIIIZ · 5 pointsr/lego

I just started on this venture myself, and I am planning on using some of these: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000LDH3JC/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1AMLS2ATACRU2&coliid=I2HEX98NDSJA7E to store the bricks in. They have different versions that include all large bins, and a mix of the two.

Now looking at your picture, if you can imagine for a minute, my plan is to have a worktable something like your bottom half, and then above mounted on the walls I would place those parts containers.

I was also thinking that on the workbench I would secure down some of the larger baseplates as a build/play area.

I have measure my wall, and I could hold 15 of those storage bins, but really i would only get about have or so due to the table.

In my mind this sounds good....but I will have to see how it goes....and post pictures!

u/rabk294 · 5 pointsr/AFOL

This probably isn't the answer you're looking for, but I'll give it to you anyway: sort by need. I'm a WWII diorama and vehicle builder. I have separate large plastic containers for brown plates, green plates, white plates, tan plates, dark tan plates, etc; all earth tones that I'll need a lot of for dioramas. I also have large bins for grass pieces and leaf pieces. I use small drawers for the vehicle parts that get used frequently. The rest of my parts are generally just used as "filler" parts for unseen sections of my dioramas, so they're sorted very roughly. I've included a link to the drawers that I use.


tl;dr: Depending on your building style, you'll need different organization. Experiment, and try to decide what's best for you. No two builders need the same organization.

u/elektrikeye · 5 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

The location of the power supply doesn't have anything to do with it, the power supply still takes in 120V AC Power and converts it to 12V DC power. When you have a ground fault that circuit will feed back through the line in an attempt to get to earth. I would highly recommend checking your outlet/surge protector with something like this:

If your outlet is still good, I would return the printer if you can.

u/Kv603 · 5 pointsr/DIY

It was pretty common in homes of a certain era to install a GFCI outlet and then daisy-chain a bunch of outlets, even in an entirely different room, off that one GFCI outlet.

It might not be obvious how the circuit is run, you can pick up a cheap test tool at the hardware store with a GFCI-test button on it, that will trigger the GFCI in the chain, if one exists.

u/jonschwartz · 5 pointsr/smallbusiness

They sell GFCI testers which will reliably trip the breaker without causing damage (assuming the wiring is done somewhat properly). It wouldn't break anything, but would disable the outlet and would bug the neighbor. Here's the one I have https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RUL2UU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/KGB420 · 5 pointsr/HomeImprovement

>a modern house with current wiring would also experience overheating

This issue was not present at our previous residence.

>How do you know they are not grounded?

I plugged one of these into the outlets, and it reports open ground.

u/CommonModeReject · 5 pointsr/livesound

> I've come to realize that the whole venue isnt properly grounded aftering dealing with this hiss/hum from all the mains.

You have actually tested the grounding right? You're not just making an assumption? These things cost like $10. http://amzn.com/B000RUL2UU

u/FreedomPullo · 5 pointsr/Knife_Swap

Leatherman - Skeletool® Multi-Tool, Stainless Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XU9NXW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vNErxbKEVHH1D
Still $41.25 without Prime.
Your account doesn't really matter as long as its flaired but this is the first time a knifeswapper has been concerned about doxxing.... Also sort of a red flag? I would probably keep the worry about Internet enemies quiet :)

u/WhisperToARiot · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Came here to say this, this was my best purchase all summer 👍 CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/drucius · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

the buy it for life crowd will always argue for superior quality and buying a good tool. However another random redditor once summarized a different pragmatic:
"Buy a cheap tool, if it does the job you win. If you use it enough to break it you now are justified on buying the good version that might last you a lifetime."
I love harbor freight for economy cheap hand tools.

My exception is buy a good drill/driver. My current house might be close to 50% held together by work from my Milwaukee at this point.

Other tools no one mentioned that will come in handy: Outlet tester/live circuit detector, A stud finder, a set of allen wrenches.

u/Aperture_Engineering · 4 pointsr/AskEngineers

You can use a (fairly strong neodymium) magnet to find the sheetrock screws they use to, well, hold up the sheetrock. If you find a couple of magnetic spots in a line, odds are a beam is there. They even make magnets encased in plastic for this exact purpose.

Disclaimer: I don't really know anything about the strapping /u/jerkfacebeaversucks was talking about, so the magnet may be fooled by that too.

u/BZeeB · 4 pointsr/beadsprites

This is what I use. Unfortunately they are not completely sealed cubby spaces, so if you jostle it hard some of the beads may leak out into other cub holes. But each space fits 1000 beads very comfortably ~60 colors. If you mount it like its designed for you'll never have a problem.

u/chilidirigible · 4 pointsr/AnimeFigures

A couple of years ago, /u/DancingQueen5961 recommended this storage cabinet by Akro-Mils. I filed it in my wishlist and sat on the idea for a while.

Now I've finally bought one. Two of the concerns raised in the original thread do apply, specifically:

These single-sized drawers can't fit larger accessories. (The case with the multiple drawer sizes would be best for that.)

Front lip may catch on things when the drawer is opened. I might not use the figma bags for this reason. However, I'd probably still use some buffer material in the drawers to keep things from bouncing around too much.

The issue with too many drawers doesn't apply in my case: I actually have more figures with accessories than the cabinet has drawers, though as mentioned not all of them will have all of their accessories be suitable for the cabinet. But it's enough to work as I'm planning to use it for parts storage for the figures that I tend to change parts on often.

Now to actually finish loading the thing.

u/Kuiyy · 4 pointsr/lego

Akro-mils 64 drawer seems to be what most people here use. https://www.amazon.ca/Akro-Mils-10164-Plastic-Storage-Hardware/dp/B000LDH3JC

u/robotgraves · 4 pointsr/diypedals

I'll start with a meta one. How do you organize your parts?

I am currently using 4 of these: https://www.amazon.com/Akro-Mils-10164-Plastic-Storage-Hardware/dp/B000LDH3JC

with a mix of 15 of these: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80102919/

And I feel like i just can't keep things as organized as I'd like. What do you do?

u/Cold_Sore_Bay · 4 pointsr/beadsprites

Thanks! I'm hoping I can pull off a decent finish. Nervous about the ironing phase since this will be my largest project to date. As for the organizer I came across them in post on this sub from a few years back. Here's the link to it on Amazon


The drawers perfectly fit a 1000 pack of beads. I just cut the names of the colors off the bags and tape them to drawers and then organize them in a rainbow spectrum.

u/edisonlbm · 4 pointsr/homeowners

If you go that far, I'd reccomend getting something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519316688&sr=8-3

It will show problems that you might miss if you are just plugging something in, and it's a good idea to test GFCI too.

u/sick937 · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

No idea about the cost, but if you have a level of confidence and have some idea what you're doing, you could pop the cover off that electric panel and see what type of wires run into the circuit breakers and what they feed. If modern wires run into breaker #1, and you turn that off and the wall fixtures turn off.. well there you go.

K&T should be easier to spot inside the box, no ground, probably dusty, and wrapped in cloth. Mapping the breakers, figuring out what controls what room/wall/fixture is a good idea. Flip them off one at a time and have someone upstairs plugging something in an checking them..

Also, I highly recommend one of these guys to quikcly test and tell you if the wiring is correct:


u/LobsterAuntie · 4 pointsr/Columbus

GFCI outlets on a GFCI circuit breaker? I think that's overkill unless there was some funny wiring going on.

Here is a tester that will show if the outlet is wired correctly and if it's GFCI protected. Might be worth the $5 for piece of mind:

Sperry Instruments GFI6302 GFCI Outlet / Receptacle Tester, Standard 120V AC Outlets, 7 Visual Indication / Wiring Legend, Home & Professional Use, Yellow & Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cUWeAbQG51J7V

ETA: There could also be another GFCI outlet on the circuit that you don't know about that is providing GFCI protection. The GFCI outlet that was protecting the other outlets in our bathroom was under the sink, tucked under a shelf that I did not notice for two years until the outlets stopped working and I needed to find out why.

u/cheezbergher · 4 pointsr/assholedesign

You get a simple outlet tester like this:

Sperry Instruments GFI6302 GFCI Outlet / Receptacle Tester, Standard 120V AC Outlets, 7 Visual Indication / Wiring Legend, Home & Professional Use, Yellow & Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_yBILDbSMB9JYX

u/1new_username · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I use one of these


You plug it in the outlet and push the button on top. If the outlet is on a gfci, it should trip it and the power at that outlet (and any others on the gfci) will go out.

u/CaptainBears · 4 pointsr/flashlight

I’d love a little HELP! Never can have too many hand sun sticks.


u/Darksol503 · 4 pointsr/XWingTMG

Stanley tool organizer. It literally fits X-Wing items perfectly and can be customized to your needs. I'm buying two more just in case... CHEAP on Amazon :)


u/arecibo560 · 4 pointsr/knives

I highly recommend them, I have the Leek non-serrated. Best Knife I have ever owned.

u/orangefolders · 4 pointsr/OKBestFace

So baked goods, socks I need to get on Buns' level if at all possible, 20mm or 22mm Nato Watch Straps, Beers, Maybe a new Flashlight pocket knives, kindle books, T-shirts xxl ( i shrink things a lot), Hoodies same size, games(card, board, video)

u/king_human · 4 pointsr/knifeclub

Kershaw Leek!

And, you'll have enough left over to buy a few cases of fruit.

u/SirRipo · 4 pointsr/EDC

For the record, I feel the same that the Cryo is too slippery - which is why I'm super glad Kershaw released a G10 version of it last year.

I also agree that the Tenacious is just a bit too big for EDC - and they do make the Persistence, which is a shrunken version of the Tenacious, with a 2.75 inch blade vs the Tenacious' 3-3/8 inch blade. If you wanna go even smaller, the Ambitious has a 2.25" blade. All 3 knives share a similar design (though the Ambitious is small enough that the proportions might look a little weird to some).

A few other knives of note that are standouts in the sub-$50 price range:

  • CRKT Ripple - Ken Onion design with a more-traditional drop point blade, IKBS, 8Cr14MoV. Usually on most people's "Under $50" list.

  • Kershaw Leek - Again, a little slippery and still Speedsafe but a slightly weaker torsion bar so not as forceful. Some people have issues with broken tips since they're a little thin, but this thing was the best under $50 when it came out.

  • Ontario RAT 1 - At $25 this thing is a pretty great package, if not a little big. 3.5" blade, but it's AUS-8 if you don't like the 8Cr China steels (even if they are pretty similar).

  • SOG Flash II - again, a 3.5 inch, AUS-8 blade. Assisted opening, but much less forceful than Speedsafe.

  • The Kershaw Emerson CQC-6K has blown up since it's release and a lot of high speed low drag tactical types love it for EDC use. $25 makes it a pretty appealing choice and rock solid under $30.

  • The Spyderco Delica 4 is just a touch over $50, averaging about $60, but it's also a go-to knife in the $50 for many people. VG-10 steel on this one is a big selling point.

  • On the same hand, the Kershaw Blur is usually available for about $60, and for those looking for a big folder (seriously this thing is large) it's a great choice. Sandvik 14C28N as standard steel, also available with S30V for about $75.

    A few notes here

  • You'll see a lot of sub $50 knives using 8Cr13MoV or 8Cr14MoV. The main difference is a little more Chromium in the 8Cr14MoV, leading to a little more corrosion resistance. A lot of people loved the Skyline, but there were a few issues with minor rust spots on the knives, leading to many companies switching to 8Cr14MoV for some of their knives (most of the budget Kershaws are 8Cr14MoV now).

  • Kershaw has many many options for budget folders under $50, for all kinds of aesthetic tastes. The Chill, Thermite, Link, Oso Sweet, etc. I've owned a handful of Kershaws, and loved all of them, especially for the price.

  • The 8Cr steels (13MoV and 14MoV) are pretty much on par with AUS-8, especially from CRKT, Spyderco, and Kershaw who all do a good job on their heat treats. There's a slight difference in hardness (3 to 4 HRC difference by most counts), but really they're nearly identical for all intents and purposes, mainly sharpening and edge retention. Some people just prefer AUS-8 because they don't like so called "China steel."

    ETA a few more links and some clarification of my still-awake-at-5am rambling.
u/thamoore · 4 pointsr/bikecommuting

Im a big fan of the Delta Cycle 2 bike stand.

For the third, you may just go with a hook to store it vertically.

u/FalseEEngineer · 4 pointsr/bicycling

7 is an excellent option for an apartment, but I would disagree with that article's statement of relying entirely on gravity. It includes one anchor and screw to keep it from tilting while loading/unloading.

My apartment setup

$55 on Amazon

u/Obvious666 · 4 pointsr/MTB

Oh ok, what about something like this?

u/porksmash · 4 pointsr/bicycling

A couple weeks ago I wanted to do the same (but without making holes in the wall) and picked up this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ACAM38/

u/ddunlop · 4 pointsr/bicycling

I use this stand - which actually doesn't hurt the walls very much.


u/Lewdiville_Tiger · 4 pointsr/todayilearned

Why don't ya save money and install a bidet?

Also it is fine to use wipes as long as they go in the trash and not flushed.

u/bamachine · 4 pointsr/CFB

A lifesaver

Also, I get the Cottonelle wipes to take with me anytime I am away from home. I absolutely hate using any TP these days, in those rare instances, feels like I am walking around nasty.

u/crazy_goat · 4 pointsr/hometheater

I have refurbished / reconditioned or otherwise repaired just about every component in my theater. The KEF speakers are all same era and generation, plus or minus a few years.

Front Channels: KEF 103/4 Reference speakers - owner replaced foam surrounds on the internal push/pull woofers - and I refurbished the ferrofluid in the tweeters. $175 off craigslist

Center Channel: NOS (new old stock) KEF Model 100 - found on craigslist. Someone found it in their garage, sitting new in box for 20 years. Refurbished the tweeter (ferrofluid replacement). $60 off craigslist.

Surround Channels: KEF C55 speakers that I found at Goodwill for $20. Complete cleanup - ferrofluid treatment of tweeters. Great condition otherwise.

Rear Channel: KEF Model 90 "center channel" speaker - bought this before I found the Model 100. Roughly the same speaker, but smaller tweeter than the model 100. Tweeter refurbed, cleaned up inside and out. I went with a 6.1 configuration because my room wouldn't benefit much from 7.1 - and the window placement made that difficult. Mixing 7.1 down to 6.1 doesn't change much. $40 off Craigslist.

Subwoofer: PA-120 Premier Acoustics 12'' Subwoofer had this sub for 8 years now, and love it to pieces. Very punchy, very powerful, very affordable. Weighs a metric ton - and customer service was top notch. (Amp malfunctioned after 6 years - got a new one from them free of charge).

Surround AV Receiver: Marantz SR6008 receiver I bought for $200 on ebay because it was 'for parts/not working.' The HDMI1 output (there are two) was burned out. Bought a new HDMI board from Marantz for a hundred bucks and the thing is good as new.

Speaker Mounts: The left C55 surround and rear channel are on custom made speaker mounts - the rear is half custom - mounted to one of the speaker mounts I got from Amazon.

Projection Screen: Custom 105'' Screen Frame and made from a canibalized Da-Lite screen I got for free from work. (was hiding in the plenum when we purchased our office space.

Projector: Benq HT1075 - bought new, because it's already so cost effective. Found it on sale at Frys for $699 a year ago. Very happy with this little projector.

Theater/Home Automation: Home Assistant running on an iPad 3 in the theater room. The iPad was sitting in a drawer, not in use for at least a year, and found an OEM apple dock for $5 on ebay for when it's not in use. I can control my Smart Things devices (z-wave dimmer) - MiLight LED strips behind the screen, in the EXIT light, and the bulbs in the uplight/spotlights in the room, I also integrated Broadlink RM2 support for controlling cheap 433mhz outlet switches for the air purifier, popcorn machine, and whatever else I need to control.

Movie Posters: Marketing department had a bunch of these frames in storage from an old PR campaign. Tore out the foamcore inserts, found high res posters, and ordered them on this silk-like fabric directly from China for $9 a pop. They look incredible up close, almost lithograph-like.

RGB Lighting: Generic RGB Strips I bought for $5 a pop on price mistake with Milight RGB controllers. Milight 9W RGBW bulbs I got for $13 each in $15 brushed steel uplights from Lamps Plus. All controled with the Milight WiFi controller through Home Assistant.

Seating was transitioned from the living room when we bought new sofas - raised the rear seating on 10'' platform. 12GA Speaker wire from my local wire wholesaler (similar price to monoprice). Looking for some carpet options - and have a lead on a local seller of OC703 for acoustic panels.

It's come a long way in a year - here's a before and after - December 2015 and April 2016 -- not the most recent, obviously - but I'm very proud with how it's coming together.

u/MasterBuilderBater · 4 pointsr/gadgets

Depending on how much you want to spend, this could be done several different ways. Let's just say you want to keep it under $35... Here's what you might do (keep in mind this isn't exactly what you were going for, but it might be a better option depending on how you look at it):

Get the ZAP 5XL from Amazon for $30. It comes with 5 outlet adapters that plug into one socket on each of your existing outlets, and gives you a remote controlled outlet. These outlets are then controlled by a wireless remote that has 5 on/off buttons. The remote can be programmed to control multiple outlets with one button.

You could then surface mount a blank wall plate to the wall, and use a 3m command Velcro like strip to attach the remote to that blank wall plate. This would allow the remote to act as a stationary wall switch and also a removable remote control.

u/computah · 4 pointsr/makeuporganization

This is the LED strip I used. Super easy to install! Just needed to find a 12v adapter to power it.


u/forrest_trump · 4 pointsr/whatisthisthing
u/Creoden · 4 pointsr/Hue

I've been using multiple FLS-PP along with LED strips and it works fine with the current HUE firmware, you can get one of the modules and see if it works with your LED strip, just a quick look, and it has the same plug that the 5050s LEDs I have, but the 5050s LEDS are RGB.

u/obsoletest · 4 pointsr/AskNYC

The bigger issue is what's in the wall behind the outlets. Two-prong outlets are connected to hot and neutral wires only. Three-prong outlets are connected to hot, neutral, and ground wires (contained in a single cable). Changing the outlet won't help, other than giving something three-prong plugs will fit into. The wiring in the walls would need to be replaced, which could be an expensive proposition. I'd also check those kitchen outlets to see if they're actually grounded. It would be unusual for part of an apartment to get rewired and not the whole thing. This type of device will answer that question quickly: http://www.amazon.com/GE-3-Wire-Receptacle-Tester-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=sr_1_3

u/badger-dude · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Get one of these and test ALL the outlets. The three pong receptacles may not be properly grounded.


With my 1950's house I got lucky. The house was wired with a ground wire but since this was before the days of 3 prong receptacles they tied the ground wire to each receptacle box (all metal boxes). Everything was grounded properly at the panel so all I had to do was just add a short piece of copper from a spare screw in each box to the ground screw of the new three prong receptacles I bought.

The sidebar link that was provided will give you other options aside from a full rewire job.

u/molo1134 · 4 pointsr/buildapc

Ham radio operator here. Make sure you have proper grounding. That is, make sure you have a shielded PC case (NO BIG PLEXIGLAS WINDOWS), and make sure your power cord is properly grounded (3-prong plug into a 3-prong outlet). Make sure your outlet is appropriately grounded (get one of these). Make sure your home/building uses an appropriate ground rod at your mains feedpoint (where the power lines enter your building).

Then, ferrites on all cords leading to your audio amplifier (amplified speakers). That includes, the audio input, the power line and any speaker outputs.

u/El_Dubious_Mung · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

ChipQwik - use it like solder. It mixes with the solder and lowers its melting point, making it stay molten longer. This is good for desoldering tiny things.

Flux pen - flux is a liquid that helps guide the solder. Any youtube video about soldering can provide an explanation.

Solder sucker - melt the solder, suck it up

Solder wick - melt the solder, soak it up.

You don't need to get these exact products, but they're all handy. You can get by without the chipqwik, but the rest should be in every soldering toolkit. Also remember that solder will like to move towards the soldering iron, so you can kind of use it to pick up any excess solder if you do it right.

I should note that I've never done a usb port before, so I can't guide you on exactly how to do it. I'm a bit of a newb myself. Just devour a few youtube tutorials, and try it. Soldering is really a skill learned by doing, and like I said, you have nothing to lose at this point. No point in being afraid to fail now.

u/Rob27shred · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Oh wow, MX black switches are usually not very tight fitting with caps either. MX clear switches are the ones that are notorious for this! Sorry this happened to you OP. This isn't the greateast video showing how to de-solder switches but should give you a decent ideal of what you'll need to do. The only tools you'll really need are a sodapullt, some solder wick, & a decent temp controlled soldering station. Well, TBH you could get away with a cheaper soldering iron if all you plan on ever using it for is replacing these few switches. Although I will say cheap soldering irons with no temp. control are much easier to damage the PCB or pads with.

u/M4rius · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

make sure to clean it periodically and make sure the nozzle sits flush. otherwise look into this one https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4

u/angelartech · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Be really careful. Don't rip the switches out if they don't come out. Just keep trying to remove the solder successfully without burning any pads or damaging any traces. Not being careful is how I managed to screw up my Poseidon Z. (funnily enough I tried installing the same switches)

If you don't mind spending extra money, I really recommend the Engineer SS-02 solder sucker. It has a silicone tip that allows you to get right up against the soldering iron to suck up as much solder as possible.

u/dollartacos · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Got a soldering iron for Christmas and dove right in. This is my third 60% build, and by far my favorite.


u/Knoxie_89 · 4 pointsr/homeautomation

My preference is smart switches. $34 on amazon. Bulbs go bad, lamps change. A switch will last longer and is universal. You could also go with a outlet for similar price. Plus with a bulb the device needs power all the time, so if the switch gets turned off your routine wont work properly.


u/ramk13 · 4 pointsr/homeautomation

If you google "zwave switch" (not dimmer) you'll find tons. Not to sound mean, but did you try searching?

u/Fistulotomy · 4 pointsr/CrohnsDisease

I had 3 fistulas: 1 low, 2 high. They did a fistulotomyb the low one and put draining setons in the 2 high ones. That was 5 months ago.

I bathe twice per day, each time for minimum 30 minutes but often for 90-120 minutes per bath. I read books, check reddit on my phone, watch videos, etc. I'm trying to jerry-rig some setup where I'd feel secure having my laptop in there so I could work during the day. It's hard to overstate how good a hot soak feels.

I also have a bidet on my toilet and a travel bidet which I take with me whenever I'm not home. I use panty liners to deal with drainage and change those 3-4 times per day.

I'm so grateful to have flexibility with my job where I can work from home on days I don't feel well. This experience would be much worse if I had limitations on my hygiene.

Other than the fistulas and 5-6 watery bowel movements per day I'm not overly symptomatic (subject to diet) so I'm grateful for that.

Started remicade and methotrexate a month ago. GI & colorectal surgeon want to give it 9-12 months and see if the fistulas are closing up.

Bidet links:

Base $35 model, cold water only https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RHSJO

Deluxe $60 model, hot and cold water https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RX2UI

Travel Bidet: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CSDKSQ

u/greath · 4 pointsr/knifeclub

Lol, alright for example:

  • Spyderco Delica 4 FFG: For your price range this is going to be the "best" steel you can get in a near 3" folding knife (VG-10). By best I mean the best edge retention in a stainless steel. However, being over 2.5" in some places (Chacago for example) the knife will be illegal. Also, many people do not like the look of the spyderhole as it can be seen as aggressive in office environments. Also the FRN handles, while very strong, have a cheap/plastic feel to them.

  • Spyderco Tenacious: Compared to the Delica, 8CR13MOV is a "worse" stainless steel (not as good edge retention, more prone to chipping during heavy impacts). However, the extra blade length is better for many outdoor tasks (breaking down tree branches). The handle is also G10, which is slightly tougher and has a much better feeling in hand than FRN.

  • Spyderco Centofante 3: A more "gentlemanly" and "office friendly" version of the Delica with a slightly longer blade. Again, VG-10 and FRN.

  • Kershaw Cryo II: Same steel as the tenacious. Metal handles slightly tougher than G10. Flipper action has "cool" factor. The blade grind makes the tip a touch stronger than on the tenacious.

  • Kershaw Skyline: One of the most iconic of Kershaw's knives. Hollow ground blade makes it great at slicing tasks.

  • Esee Izula: Skeletonized fixed blade. 1095 Steel is significantly better than the other steels listed at "chopping" tasks as it is not prone to chipping at all. It is NOT stainless and so the blade has a protective coating over most of it. The steel will require mineral oil/cleaning to prevent rusting.

  • Becker BK 24: Similar to the Esee Izula but D2 steel which has better edge retention and more corrosion resistance than 1095. It is also much harder to sharpen. Many think the BK24's handle is also less comfortable, the sheath is worse, and there are less available after market modifications.

  • Ontario Rat Series (linked the RAT I. RAT 2 similar but smaller): Ontario's version of the tenacious. Bladeshape generally more people friendly. Another very popular beater option.

  • Morakniv Knives (there are MANY, this is just one): Highly regarded in the "bushcraft" community. High carbon steel (similar to 1095) with a scandi-grind which is great for field sharpening and woodworking. Only partial tangs so not advised to use for battoning tasks or chopping.

  • Kershaw OD-2: Gentlemanly knife with great flipping action.

    There are a LOT more suggestions I could add...
u/mroystacatz · 4 pointsr/knifeclub

Here are my personal essentials.

  • Spyderco Delica 4: $60 VG-10 steel, comes in tons of colors
  • Spyderco Endura 4: Larger version of Delica
  • Morakniv Companion: $12-$20 A really awesome fixed blade, outperforms knives triple it's price.
  • Victorinox Tinker: $20-25 classic swiss army knife, really great quality in general. Lots of tools but not too many so it's easily pocket carried.
  • Victorinox Cadet: Smaller Swiss Army Knife, aluminum handles. Lots of colors.
  • Kershaw Cryo, or Cryo 2: $20-40 steel frame lock, Hinderer design, good price, tons of colors. The Cryo 2 is the same as the Cryo just larger.
  • Ontaro Rat 1 or 2: $25-30 Classically shaped folders with a very rugged build for a liner lock. The 2 is a smaller version of the 1.

    Also, you're going to want a sharpening system that works for you in the long run. I personally use the Spyderco Sharpmaker But there are tons of good sharpening options out there.

    P.S: You're going to get a lot of people hating on your Gerbers most likely, that's because they're honestly not worth it in the long run. They use very low quality steel for the price and they don't have the best quality control. I'm not saying your Gerbers are trash or anything. But they definitely won't last very long. Just about all of the knives I listed will last you a lifetime if you treat them right, and oil/sharpen them correctly.
u/imnotlegolas · 4 pointsr/badroommates

That's a tricky one. Normally I'd say get the hell out because the guy definitely does not know his boundaries. You just being nice to him makes him think you wants to fuck and that's just pathetic and wrong.

However realistically if you only have two months to go, it might be tricky to break your contract and find a new place just like that. And expensive.

Have you tried to specifically tell him at a neutral time (for example, not after he tried something with you in anger) that you do not appreciate his advances and that if he touches you inappropriately again, you'll go to the cops?

Or if that's a scary prospect, perhaps put it in writing? After saying that, ignore contact with him. Be clear about that - don't be polite, you don't have to be. He ruined that. Also get some pepperspray just in case.

As for your door, try and find one of these locks. They do not require any drilling what-so-ever (I assume because you're renting you can't drill in the doors for a real lock) and will still offer extra safety and security, so you at least will feel a bit more comfortable for the remaining two weeks.

u/ChibiLlama · 4 pointsr/TwoXChromosomes

Here's a cheap lock you can get for your door that doesn't require installation: Amazon Page

u/Sharptoe1 · 4 pointsr/JUSTNOMIL

These work pretty good in my experience. Cheapest ones I've seen are around 5 bucks.

u/kenmacd · 4 pointsr/halifax

What about temporary locks while you're in there? I can't see how that's any different than putting a chair against the door.

u/NightmareNoises · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

This is my go to for all exterior doors, would be difficult to defeat. There is no opening the door if this is latched vs th chain/u style.

As a temp alternative I also have an addalock:

u/Mr_Ected · 3 pointsr/bicycling

I'd also carry a normal multi-tool (I carry a Leatherman Skeletool). They do come in handy, especially for pulling out stubborn pokey things that work themselves into your tires. The knife and screwdriver can be handy as well at times.

u/GaynalPleasures · 3 pointsr/uwotm8
u/EatinPussynKickinAss · 3 pointsr/EDC

List of gear:

u/gravi-tea · 3 pointsr/CampingandHiking

If you want a folder, the Rat by the Ontario Knife Company is definitely a great choice.

Just read some reviews. For $27 you are getting a ridiculously well made knife.

u/jamin101wolf · 3 pointsr/EDC

A RAT, a Tenacious, an Opinel, or a Cryo are the usual choices. What's wrong with 8cr13mov steel? It's not the best but for sub $30, it'll get the job done.

u/djstefan96 · 3 pointsr/knives

For fixed blade if you are gonna be using the knife for hard use then I would not recommend a folder. I'm more knowledgeable on folders so someone else may find a better choice. If they don't, this is still a very solid choice, I have never had one, but I did have an izula (which is very similar).

For folder I would go with the Ontario rat, they make this is d2 blade steel which would be better and they make a smaller version (rat 2) but any version of this knife you choose will be the best for the money.

Another fixed blade that is similar to picture is this Schrade. Schrade usually isn't the best company but 1095 is definitely a cheap, good steel. With the blade thickness and steel, I would trust this knife any day.

u/psychotropicx · 3 pointsr/knives

One of the many Kershaw Chinese made knives, like the Tremor or the Scamp. A Buck Vantage Select. You might find an Ontario Rat 1 for under $25 if you search around.

There are also several Chinese brands that are pretty cheap and very decent quality, you can find on ebay, or http://www.exduct.com.

u/eltonnovs · 3 pointsr/knives

If you're spending $100, most well known brands will be sharp and strong. The rest depends on taste and preference. But a few options

  • Benchmade mini griptilian, the axis lock is bomb proof. 154cm (the steel) is pretty good for that price range.

  • Cold Steel mini recon
    Triad lock is really tough, CTS-XHP is a great steel. Cold Steel knives always come razor sharp, and are known for being indestructible.

  • Cold Steel rajah III, BD1, bit softer steel but still a good blade.

  • Ontario rat 1, a lot cheaper but hey, why not buy 2? Softer steel, but easy to sharpen. Tough knife on a budget.

  • Kershaw Blur Has assisted opening, decent steel. But your paying more because of the opening mechanism

  • Kershaw scallion. All metal knife, assisted opening. 420HC is pretty tough.

  • Gerber 06 fast Assisted opening. I'm not the biggest fan of 7cr17mov. The knife is strong though.

    And most likely every person reading this will have another knife to recommend. It's a lot about personal preference. What look do you like, what lock do you like.

    edit; Thanks kind stranger for the gold!
u/Kromulent · 3 pointsr/knives

My favorite under-50 knife is the Spyderco Tenacious. They make a couple of smaller knives at a similar price point too.

Ontario Rat is another good value - about $25 - good tough knife for outdoor stuff.

u/Buixer · 3 pointsr/EDC

Here are some affordable options.

Ontario 8848 RAT Folding Knife (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013ASG3E/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_7ziUub1K4FP48

Spyderco Tenacious G-10 Handle Folding Plain Edge Knife https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EI7578/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_OAiUub1JC6EFZ

JETBeam BA10 XPG Cree LED Flashlight, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UG51OK/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_pBiUub02WTDZZ

Fenix LD09 130 Lumen LED Tactical Flashlight with EdisonBright AA Alkaline battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MB1MJFA/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_YIiUub0M7RSYV

u/turkeypants · 3 pointsr/chineseknives

Your intended type, volume, and roughness of use, and your sharpening willingness and skills will play a role in what knife and steel you get, though the cheaper you go, you lose some options. Do you want a folding knife or would you consider a fixed blade? Do you know how long a blade you might like? I think about 3.5" is basically "full" size in folding knives, with 3.0" being medium and particularly EDC-friendly, while smaller than that gets into mini territory. Lots of options in all sizes, plus big bigger ones. Are you a drop point guy? A reverse tanto blade shape guy? Spear point? Clip point? And do you prefer a liner lock, frame lock, axis lock, other lock? Do you prefer to open via thumb stud, front flipper, rear flipper, assisted open? Do you want plastic, rubber, G10, CF, metal, or something else on the handle? Do you want clip options for left carry, right carry, tip up, or tip down? Do you care if it's heavier? Do you need ultralight? Average weight?

Just searching Amazon for Ganzo (or Sanrenmu) will give you a bevy of cheap options, many of which look suspiciously familiar.

If you've got an extra four bucks and change and would prefer something American made and smaller, you can get the knife community's go-to recommendation for a great deal on a reliable smallish-midsize workhorse, the Ontario Rat 2. Get a ruler and imagine what you'd think of a 7 inch knife with a 4 inch handle an a 3 inch blade. Watch some review videos to get a better idea of size. A nice bonus is four-way reversible pocket clip for your choice of left/right and tip-up/tip-down carry. This cheaper version is in AUS-8 steel, which is easier to sharpen but holds an edge less well than the more expensive and harder to sharpen D2 version, which gets up closer to $40.. And at that price you could bump up to the larger Rat 1 in D2 if you wanted to for a buck or two more, though we're trying to hit $20 here. That one's got a 3.625" blade for 8.625" overall.

Anyway if you can answer some of the questions in the first paragraph, it will help people narrow things down for you and give you better recommendations. What would your ideal knife have? Fill in the blanks on fixed/folding, blade length, blade shape, handle material, open type, lock type, pocket clip preferences, and anything else like color, weight, etc.

And check out /r/Ganzo_Knives and /r/BudgetBlades for additional ideas.

u/archamedeznutz · 3 pointsr/EDC

Swiss Army Knife

Kershaw method

Kershaw Westin

Ganzo FH-11

Byrd Medowlark 2

Opinel #8

Ontario Rat 1

All of these are going to last longer and perform better than the MTech. In terms of appearance and esthetics, nobody is going to look askance if you pull out a Swiss army knife or an opinel. Flicking your mtech will likely be a different story. You should carry what you enjoy, but understand that conventional wisdom is going to look down on the appearance and, if they know about knives, the MTech brand. If you go with the Mtech, don't trust the lock too much and don't be surprised if the assist mechanism breaks.

u/xbuzzbyx · 3 pointsr/knives

I was thinking something similar.
1 Ontario 8848 RAT
2 Kershaw Chill (A bit slimmer, lighter, and sleeker than the Clash)
3 CRKT Drifter G10

I just bought the Chill, and I love it! At 1.9 oz, it's half the weight of the Clash. The locking system is nice and smooth. I loosened the tension a little so I don't need to flick my wrist, just a quick trigger pull on the tab. So far, nothing I can complain about.

u/macbooklover91 · 3 pointsr/EDC

Well heres a list of some from amazon.

u/MestizoTwins · 3 pointsr/EDC

I just bought a Ontario Rat-1 based on some positive reviews from friends. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013ASG3E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


24 bucks is not a bad deal. My go to carry are Benchmade Griptilian 550s and want to see how these stack up.

u/TransNOC · 3 pointsr/sysadmin

Deploy a Citrix or RDP redirect to his corporate PC over VPN VM for him to use with 2 factor authentication and a US-based certificate authority. That way he can travel with no corporate data in tow, where he might be forced to decrypt the laptop for foreign border agencies which are known to work with intelligence services. Since he will want to travel light, perhaps buy him a Macbook and don't forget power converters for Africa. Don't forget to deploy antivirus (with an uninstall password set) and filevault, even on Mac and make sure he cannot save the password in the RDP software. If you do go the Mac route, don't forget to deploy a password on the firmware as well. Don't give him local admin on the laptop but insert a local admin account for a backup he doesn't know exists unless told about in a troubleshooting session.

I hate Surface Pro's but they are such a bitch to tamper with (don't forget to also setup secure boot microsoft only, no USB boot allowed in the uefi firmware and set a password on it) that most attempts would be physically visible. Remember, give him a REALLY GOOD remote experience (Citrix works good over high latency / low bandwidth links) and he will want to comply with all of this.

Do not allow him under any circumstances to take an Android phone overseas. I highly recommend a iPhone with a heavy duty "Unicorn Beetle" case (check Amazon) and a USB charge only cable: https://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-Block-20AWG-Lightning-Cable/dp/B01F7AU62E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1522957207&sr=8-2&keywords=charge+only+iphone&dpID=31dRwWAKkBL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

For everything else: https://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-Data-Blocker-Adaptor-SmartCharge/dp/B00T0DW3F8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1522957248&sr=8-2&keywords=charge+only+adapter

and send him with at least two of these: https://www.amazon.com/Rishon-Enterprises-Inc-I9889-Addalock/dp/B00186URTY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522957319&sr=8-1&keywords=hotel+room+lock these should be inside his laptop bag and with him at all times. I recommend a backpack: North Face Borealis.

If he's going out of cell range, I recommend purchasing a Garmin Inreach and activating it for $65 a month. It will allow him to cheaply send and receive SMS messages via Iridum and a smartphone. Let him know that any communications over this is not secure whatsoever.

Run firmware updates on everything right before he leaves.

u/Matthew37 · 3 pointsr/disney
u/SixSexySockPuppets · 3 pointsr/AskWomen

I have this for extra peace of mind. Addalock - (1 Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00186URTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wozkzb1CD13WK

u/squired · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Trying to keep your landlord out? Lol

Try this, if you just like to be secure you can also take it with you when you travel. It is cheap and you don't have to mount it.

u/boarlizard · 3 pointsr/preppers

It absolutely can. Its heavy, so you might opt out for a lighter version, but yeah that can be used anywhere.

check out the adalock btw if you are in and out of hotels alot :


u/Cato_Keto_Cigars · 3 pointsr/RBI

If you're worried about the door locks, but cant change it due to the lease - one option is to lock it at night when you're home (sleep soundly) using a portable door jam.



Wyze Cameras are cheap and good if you dont care about hiding it.


u/ohmyword · 3 pointsr/Advice

Get Addalock - (1 Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00186URTY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_psjMub1YKTWMB for doors that don't have a dead bolt.

u/moocow232 · 3 pointsr/TheGirlSurvivalGuide

Get an Addalock https://www.amazon.com/Rishon-Enterprises-Inc-RE1001-Scratched/dp/B00186URTY/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1504463090&sr=8-8&keywords=door+lock

They don't alter the door frame or anything, you just put it when you are in the room and remove it when you want to leave. They are a life saver for privacy.

u/SpookyBDSM · 3 pointsr/raisedbynarcissists

I saw someone mention a door jam bar, but those are large, these are travel size door jammer and locks, you can hide it in your purse when you leave for school so that he can't take it while you are out.



u/bluedog00 · 3 pointsr/TheGirlSurvivalGuide

If it hasn't been suggested already, this doorstop is what I and my apartment mates use. It's renter friendly and you can use it on any door with a lock. It actually works really well. Best of luck!

u/Aznguy1 · 3 pointsr/knives

Kershaw Skyline is pretty nice if you want a g-10 handle and it's US made but it is 3 1/8" long

Kershaw Cryo is pretty nice and it's 2 3/4" long

u/fergusonwallace · 3 pointsr/knives

Firstly, you are in luck! The specs you listed are all available in one of my ALL TIME favorite knives. The Kershaw Skyline (video) is the finest EDC knife I've ever owned. Extremely light. Blade shape is perfect and thin... hollow ground. The grip is spectacular and you owe it to yourself to buy it. Oh, and the flipper is just perfect. Trust me you won't go wrong here. I keep mine shave sharp and it is simply a blast to own. You get used to the aesthetics. Check the reviews from amazon linked above.

u/ThisTrainHasNoBreaks · 3 pointsr/Portland

Try this. I carry one everyday. Made right here in Tualatin, Oregon. Besides, it's a good tool to have on you anyway.

u/ndog14 · 3 pointsr/CCW

Kershaw Skyline is one of the best knives for the money.

u/grumblegeek · 3 pointsr/BuyItForLife

The items I can think of right now that I've bought pretty much because of this subreddit:

  1. Zojirushi Travel mug - I use this as my office coffee mug. I fill it up in the morning and if I get sidetracked then it's still hot hours later.

  2. Saddleback Pocket ID Wallet - simple and gets the job done

  3. Weber One-Touch Gold Charcoal Grill - I love this grill.

  4. Red Wing Iron Ranger 8111 (amber color) - the first 3 weeks I thought I made a huge mistake but now they are the most comfortable shoes I've ever owned.

  5. Fisher Space Pen - I've had to stop other people from pocketing it. My wife tried to take it because she likes the way it writes.

  6. [Kershaw Skyline Knife] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CZBDF8) - I'm not into putting a lot of money into a pocketknife so this fits the bill nicely.

  7. ToiletTree Heavy Duty Nose and Facial Hair Trimmer - my previous nose trimmers felt like it was ripping the hair out by the root. This one I don't feel anything and it's very well made

    All of these I would buy again.
u/HeloRising · 3 pointsr/DicePorn

I'm a huge advocate for dice boxes. Don't get me wrong, I love dice bags, but I'll take a box over a bag for general use any day.

Best place to get them is a thrift store. Comb through and I guarantee you'll stumble across something wonderful. Old jewelry boxes are the best, you can find ones from the 40's and 50's made of solid wood and they're virtually indestructible and most already have felt inlaid in them already.

You can use these for storage and rolling if you get the right one. If the lid comes off, some felt will turn it into a handy dice tray for rolling. You can buy a dice tray if your storage box doesn't allow for it. They're relatively inexpensive and it'll be the best thing you can buy for gaming since dice.

Craft stores will have ready-made boxes that you can stain and sand if you're feeling DIY but I avoid these generally because the woods are a bit softer and the boxes themselves are not very well constructed. On top of that, they can be expensive and you still have to do a lot of the work yourself. Best to go with a Goodwill find; much cheaper and you get a better box out of it in the end.

For general storage, I tend to go for a screw case. They're dirt cheap and keep everything sorted but be sure you get one with wells deep enough for your dice.

I use an open top box lined with felt that I got as a giftbox years back in conjunction with a bag. I have an amazingly soft purple leather pouch that I use to transport the dice I'm going to use for that game then I just roll in the box. Everything goes back into the screw case when I get home and no dice get lost.

...I really need to stop watching Good Eats.

u/wmccluskey · 3 pointsr/LegoStorage

> Stanley organizer boxes


Link for the lazy.

I'm actually kicking around an idea for a rack to hold red solo cups. They hold WAY more, are dirt cheap, and are easy to replace.

Think of a shelf with lots of holes cut into it the diameter of the 2/3 line on the solo cup (the beer/ 12oz line).

u/Incursus · 3 pointsr/XWingTMG

This is the best I've found. I cut the plastic out and stick it in the bins to hold the ships.

Stanley 014725 25-Removable Compartment Professional Organizer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005QWYF

u/icepyrox · 3 pointsr/XWingTMG

Was it something like this??

As for me, I was using what /u/Nybear21 suggested, but have outgrown it for two reasons:

  • Mainly, I insist on using Sir Willibald's Microhangers and Gearboxes, which takes up more room in the tackleboxes than putting everything in there loosely would cause/create
  • I have everything from the game, including epics and stuff and there just isn't quite enough room there.

    I still highly recommend that tacklebox or something that supports the Plano 3700 series of boxes (the 1374 was the gold standard while it was made, to the point that the top reviews on Amazon were all about X-wing).

    As for what I currently use, I bought a bulk of literature mailers (10x10x2 corrugated cardboard) and put those microhangers/gearboxes in there in a stack. The epics are on shelves in display that I carry in their original plastic when I transport them to the store.
u/Sphartacus · 3 pointsr/dice

I have one of these: Stanley 014725 25-Removable Compartment Professional Organizer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005QWYF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_X1DozbH3WZ1RS

I took a couple trays out to hold pencils and dry erase markers. The little trays are big enough to hold a dice set or a few minis.

u/J1mBub · 3 pointsr/XWingTMG

These work for me:

Stanley 014725 25-Removable Compartment Professional Organizer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005QWYF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_p0Y9BbEM3MQDA

u/ChrisNH · 3 pointsr/arduino

I like cases with removable bins, for instance:


We use similar but deeper bins for the kid's legos.

u/jjacq · 3 pointsr/headphones

Can't go wrong with keeping it simple or if you have a lot, then something like this. The latter can be an excuse to fuel an IEM addiction :).

u/keen4e · 3 pointsr/LegoStorage

Hi. The number of drawers is really dependent on your piece size and variety.

As for categorization, I think I can help! It's definitely not practical to keep each part in its own drawer. Instead most people sort by part (not color!), then decide on classifications as far as what to keep together. You want to keep your categories sufficiently broad, so you can easily know where to find things like plates, arches, bricks, technic pieces, etc but not be so cumbersome that you can't keep up with where things are. Labeling your drawers once you have them is very useful for this as well. As for the specific categories themselves, it really depends on your unique collection but I find this to be a good starting point: https://www.reddit.com/r/lego/comments/ayp1wt/print_out_of_rebrickable_taxonomy_poster_at_300/


You can branch out from there based on the pieces you have more/less of. The first modification I would recommend is to keep all 1x1 bricks/tiles/plates separate because they just sink to the bottom of a big drawer otherwise and are hard to track down. I have a bunch of tiny bins just for them in a Stanley organizer like this: https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-25-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B00005QWYF/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=stanley+25+container&qid=1554229435&s=gateway&sr=8-1 but the akro mils drawers are also highly recommended here


Hope this helps!

u/serfrock · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

This is an idea I've had, but have not put into practice yet. Buy one of these screw organizers, and use a dry-erase marker to write on the lid over the relevant nuts/bolts/screws. I guess there's a chance that you'll wipe off the labels by mistake, but at least you won't mix them up if you're good about closing it.

u/Sheldonzilla · 3 pointsr/XWingTMG


I'm using this currently, works like a charm. Here's a pic in action


I have a decent sized collection, and either stuff a lot of models in here, or less models but pack their cards in too. Check out BBQ for cheaper and more varied alternatives.

I usually use foam to carry models, but X Wing models are sturdy enough to be alright.

u/SwingDancerStrahd · 3 pointsr/Pathfinder_RPG

By paper mini you mean Pathfinder pawns?

If So there are a crap ton of ways people store those.

I personally use [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00005QWYF?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd) as it perfectly fits all my pawns. Each case holds enough for 1 bestiary and 1 AP worth of pawns. Here's an [article] (https://m.imgur.com/gallery/tWBcd)

You can write the names of what is in each box and fix it to the cover in the corresponding spot

u/Donthin · 3 pointsr/dndnext

If you get the Pawns I would suggest getting this storage tray, I have two and the pawns fit perfectly!

Stanley Professional Organizer

u/pixel · 3 pointsr/AFOL

I prefer the "Stanley 014725 25-Removable Compartment Professional Organizer" for small stuff like single blocks, technic parts, etc and the Ikea TROFAST for larger items and items in larger quantities.

u/cyberlink420 · 3 pointsr/Legodimensions

Makes sense; mine are Stanley containers too, and they let you move around the slots as well.

u/anonymouzes · 3 pointsr/LegoStorage

Organized using Stanley 25, Stanley 10, Sterlite 1961, Sterlite 1962 and ziplock bags. In the Sterlites I have all my 2xX's, 1xXs, "slopes" (anything with non-right angles on it) and "inspiration pieces" (unique pieces such as tower spires and ship hulls). In the Stanleys, I keep all other pieces organized as specifically as made sense. There's still some further sorting I can do in those (e.g. all studs are together, not separated by color), but this feels like a huge win.

u/novel__ · 3 pointsr/knives

I'm going to recommend knives I own. All of these are pretty high-value.

KA-BAR Dozier Folding Hunter

Manual opening. Own one myself, it's a tank... for 20$? Comes in different colors. Very light.

SOG Flash II

Assisted opening, comes out very forcefully. There's a little "wiggle" in the blade, but if you can get passed that... it's excellent. Somewhat light.

Kershaw Leek

Assisted opening, doesn't come out with as much force as the Flash II. Non-threatening, very well-made. The only thing to watch out for is the delicate tip. It's not like it'll break instantly, though. Just don't pry with it... It's great for detail work. Very thin as well. Very light.

u/emarkd · 3 pointsr/EDC

I'm kinda going off-topic here and I hope my comments don't come across as asshole-y, but how exactly are you losing pocket clipped knives? Millions of people carry pocket clipped knives every day and don't lose them. I've been carrying a pocket clipped knife for close to 30 years and only lost one - and it had a loose pocket clip. I knew it had a loose clip and had been putting off tightening it, so it was my fault, not the knife's.

Could I suggest that you're simply carrying crappy knives? Sorry, but I noticed you're shopping in the United Cutlery class of knives, which is really, really bad quality stuff. I'd bet that if you were to simply buy a better knife, a good quality folding pocket-clipped knife, you'd have much better luck with keeping them. There's a thousand such good knives out there, for just about every budget, but for a quick suggestion, how about a Kershaw Leek? I haven't EDC'd a Leek in a long time, but they're fantastic knives that will serve you well and they don't cost a fortune. I've got several of them in different colors, have carried most of them at one time, and never had an issue with the clip.

If, on the other hand, you really want to carry a fixed blade knife, then go for it. Hell I had a cheap boot knife kinda like that in my shit-kicking, combat-boot wearing days back in the late 90's, so who am I to fault you. I have no idea if its legal or not, as I am not a lawyer, so I can't help you there. Just some things to consider...

u/crookedhead · 3 pointsr/mycology

Looks like OP has the Kershaw Chive. So I was mistaken, mine is a little bit longer, the Kershaw Leek. Great knives!

u/halvetyl000 · 3 pointsr/knives

Ah, I see. Kershaw's website has it listed at the full MSRP, but most other vendors sell it at MAP, which is closer to 50 for most versions. Amazon link for example: https://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1660-Ken-Onion-Leek/dp/B0009VC9Y0

u/corvettevan · 3 pointsr/knives

For those that care, I went with a Kershaw 1660 Ken Onion Leek mainly due to its thinness and minimal design.


Thanks for all of your help!

u/tacomanmcjab · 3 pointsr/EDC
u/Ignutsk · 3 pointsr/EDC

My EDC consists of:

u/xg220 · 3 pointsr/EDC

If you want a knife, take a look at the Kershaw Leek it's an awesome, medium sized folder, it is a great value for what you get. Amazon puts them on sale for sub $35 sometimes, so keep an eye out for that. It also has some different colored handle scales if you want to personalize it more to your liking.

If you want something a little smaller than the Leek, you could take a look at the Spyderco Ambitious, which is also a high value knife (less so than it's $35 bigger brother the Tenacious).

If you want an even smaller blade, take a look at the Spyderco Ladybug, it sports a 1.94 inch blade, so very inconspicuous and not "scary looking" at all. It'll look even more fun if you get yellow handle scales on it. They also have a purple version.

These are just a few options for you to look at, it really is only the tip of the iceberg. These are low cost, high value for what you get, I'm recommending the lower cost knives specifically because someone who isn't into knives might not value them as much (and thus not willing to pay higher amounts of money) compared to a person who is into knives. A lot of people think "What do I need a knife for?", well buy one, carry it on your person for a month and get back to me, you will see what a useful tool it is after carrying one for a decent amount of time.

u/Shippolo · 3 pointsr/EDC

[This (Keshaw select Fire)] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IVPKOU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.6azybTTQWBH1) has easily been the most useful knife I've owned. The blade itself is good, not great, but certainly good enough for everyday tasks. With typical knives I found myself using the blade to do things that I should have just gone and grabbed a screwdriver for and would end up chipping the edge.

However if you just want something with a good blade I'd recommend [Kershaw Leek] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009VC9Y0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SlbzybWEZ68XA)

u/volantemgulo · 3 pointsr/EDC

I'm a fan of the kershaw leek

u/Durzo_Blunts · 3 pointsr/rva

I sincerely wish you good luck, I would want that thing back, too. Worst case scenario, I snagged this (much cheaper) bad boy as an EDC a little while ago. Love the knife, highly recommended if you have to unfortunately purchase a new one.

Kershaw Leek Knife

u/thesuperunknown · 3 pointsr/bicycling

Or, just get one of these and you won't need to worry about drilling holes.

u/flourandbutter · 3 pointsr/Bikeporn
u/RAGING_VEGETARIAN · 3 pointsr/NYCbike

EDIT: The first thing you want to do, as in do this right now, is find the serial numbers of your bikes and record that information. This will be critical in the event that your bike is stolen.


So for starters, you'll probably want two locks. A big, heavy U-bolt, as well as a cable/chain lock that you can put through the wheels. Ideally the cable/chain would have its own lock. Avoid those integrated rotary locks; they are shit. Here's an interesting guide testing the safety of a few popular models.

  1. Pick the right thing to lock to. This seems obvious but a lot of people screw it up anyway. If you can lift your locked bike off of it, don't lock it there. (example 1, example 2.) Avoid street signs for this reason. Also, check to make sure that the object you're locking to is secured to the ground. Sometimes thieves will lay traps that look like good places to lock, but then they just pluck the trap off the ground and take the bike with them to remove the lock later. (example 1, example 2.) Other times, thieves will saw through a rack and then hide the gap with a piece of tape.

  2. Always put your strongest lock through the frame. Your wheels are removable and much less valuable than the rest of your bicycle put together.

  3. Always lock your wheels. Ideally you can put your U-lock through the frame as well as one of the wheels. That's particularly a good idea because it eats up empty space within the lock, which makes the lock harder to break or cut without breaking or cutting your bicycle. But even then, you'll have an unlocked wheel. Use your secondary lock to go through that wheel. If possible, also put your secondary lock through the frame and also lock it to the object you're locking to.

  4. Have your bike exposed for as little time as possible. If you can have your bike inside, do so. For one thing, this prevents damage to your drivetrain if it rains. For another, your bike won't be stolen. I use something like this to store my bikes in my apartment.

    The theme of locking your bike is to make it too much of a bother to deal with. You can't make it impossible for your bike to be stolen, but you can make it hard enough that nobody will care. This framework also means it's a good idea to never leave a super-expensive bike unoccupied, ever. Your bikes look fine for general commuting/locking, though.
u/vhalros · 3 pointsr/bicycling

http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Michelangelo-Two-Bike-Gravity-Stand/dp/B000ACAM38/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1413161565&sr=8-3&keywords=home+bicycle+stand <-- Something like this? I'm not endorsing that specific product as I've never tried it, but something along those lines sounds like what you are looking for.

u/savageveggie · 3 pointsr/bicycling

This is what I use in my apartment. Then maybe something similar to this to use on the ladies frame

u/soulsizzle · 3 pointsr/bicycling

I've got a Delta Michelangelo in my living room. It freed up a nice chunk of space.

u/joejoemojo · 3 pointsr/BAbike

Might not be what you're looking for, but I picked this up a few weeks ago for my tiny ass apartment:


I have two bikes on and it gets them off the floor and frees up a lot of space. Worked out well for me so far.

u/photo1kjb · 3 pointsr/bicycling

That looks pretty cool. For those who need a two-bike stand, I just installed this guy. It's not free-standing as it needs a wall to lean on, but as long as you're not drunkenly stumbling by it 24/7, it doesn't need to be bolted into anything. It does have a small safety strap for those drunkards out there. :)

u/thedayoflavos · 3 pointsr/Atlanta

I'm having the same issue; you may want to try one of these. I also avoid using Drano, as it's very toxic and never seems to work anyway.

u/hitogokoro · 3 pointsr/fatpeoplestories

How does nobody in this thread know about ZipIts?


Literally a $3 reusable, immediate non-chemical solution to the problem.

u/twistedfork · 3 pointsr/Frugal

Is a no see um a fruit fly? I've never heard of the bug being called that, but at my last apartment we had a drain fly infestation which are teeny tiny little black flies that live in your...drains.

I got rid of them by doing a couple things:

  1. clean the bathroom drain, use a zip-it and then fill with baking soda followed by vinegar.
  2. Clean your garbage disposal if you have one, fill it with ice to the sink and then run it, this will dislodge any food sludge that the flies breed in, follow with baking soda and vinegar.
  3. I killed all the alive flies buzzing around my house by putting half a shot of rum into a SOLO cup then filling it half way with water and 2 drops of dish soap and mixing, the bugs are attracted to the liquor and die in the water. It was like a bug apocalypse inside that cup.
u/abcd3fghijklmnop · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

This one worked for me, it finds the nails in the stud.

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_MRGpDbF3WC35Z

u/RugerRedhawk · 3 pointsr/Parenting

Youtube will have plenty of examples. Make sure you find a stud to secure it to. This is my go to studfinder these days if you don't already have one: http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406045775&sr=8-1&keywords=stud+finder

I just screwed one of these eye hooks to the bottom side of one of the upper shelves, then ran a lag bolt through the eye and into the stud behind the bookshelf. I did this in a couple spots, it will depend on how wide your bookshelf is as to how many you might decide to do. This is a particularly large bookshelf in my case and it goes all the way up to the ceiling. A good long wood screw would likely suffice in most cases. Also my bookshelf has an open back, you may need to do something slightly different if yours has an enclosed back on it, but you get the general gist of it.

u/quintios · 3 pointsr/DIY

OMGOMGOMGOMGOMG. Best $10 I ever spent. I love this thing:


u/Hhwwhat · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

For the future, grab one of these stud finders. Run it along the wall and it will hang on the screw heads that were used to secure the drywall. Also works great in lathe and plaster houses. It's really just a strong magnet.

u/IcyKettle · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

>Ridiculous Things that Money Can Buy!

Well there's a ringing endorsement.

Gimmick. Especially for someone who's halfway serious about renovations.

Just invest in one of these, and one of these for backup, and you'll be fine.

u/g1bs0nsg · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Rare earth magnets work great, they latch on to nails/screws. Find one, then slide it up to find another above, and down to find another below, and you can be sure you're on a stud.

I have one of these, and it's never led me astray:


u/scottawhit · 3 pointsr/Tools

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_atL1BbHQFE6PJ

Best ever. Doesn’t do electrical, or much else, but it works! It’ll just stick to a nail once it finds one.

u/_sch · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

For just finding studs, I find these to be better than any of the fancy ones: http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI

u/scottmccauley · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Here are the links without the referral tags:
Stud-finder and Fish Tape.

u/kharupt · 3 pointsr/DIY
u/99e99 · 3 pointsr/DIY

i wouldn't worry about drywall coming off the studs.. not even sure how this would happen.

game plan is sound. go for it. the only possible issue (and it's minor) is you could screw into an existing drywall screw, but the odds of this are almost 0. worst case is you screw 1/2" away.

but if you want to be absolutely sure, amazon sells these "stud-finders" that are just rare-earth magnets with a small level bubble. it finds studs by locating the drywall screws... nice little tool.

u/costar7634 · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement
u/eddyathome · 3 pointsr/PennStateUniversity

If you have about $60 you could just buy them and have some tools that will serve you well as a renter and then you could help out your friends (and maybe get free beers or food off them).

I think you mean a stud finder.


It's less than ten bucks.

An adjustable wrench is about the same price.


For a cordless rechargeable you're talking about $40 for this one.


I know you said borrow, but if you're renting it's good to have some basic tools for stuff like this and it's an investment to be honest. If you honestly can't get anyone to help, I already have the stud finder (metal detector), and wrench. It would be an excuse for me to finally get a drill. Let me know if nothing else works out.

u/bungwu · 3 pointsr/DIY

I have only ever used the magnet based ones that are inexpensive. The magnets find the drywall nails which are only in the studs.


u/JMac87 · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I love the CH Hanson stud finder...basically the same concept of the magnets, but incorporates a small level so you can make an accurate mark.

u/TrickyWon · 3 pointsr/LifeProTips

This works beautifully it has a light coating on the back so you don't leave marks on the walls when you slide it around. Also, sweep diagonally when using it.

u/YAMMYRD · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Honestly a really good magnet, finds the nails that attach the lathe. I think I have this one

u/kathios · 3 pointsr/confession

Command strips is definitely the way to go, but I find for some things the piece of it that holds the item is too big and fat for some things.

Nailing is an art. The first thing you would do is get a stud finder to make sure you're nailing something into a board and not just your wall and air. Your wall can hold most light things but if it's something like a heavy mirror or even a heavy picture frame you definitely need to find a stud. This stud finder is magnetic and will find the nail in the stud.

Then you would want to get your drill with a drill bit that is smaller than the nail is. Drill a hole into the wall just slightly downward, or just go straight it if you're not confident with your angles. Only drill in a couple inches. Do not try to drill or nail right where the stud finder found the nail, considering that there is already a nail there. Up and down the entire length of the wall where the stud finder sticks to is fair game to nail things, and there should be another stud every X feet or so (it depends).

Now you can hammer your nail in, just go easy with nice even soft strokes. And hold the hammer all the way up by the metal part for accuracy.

This all probably sounds tedious for this one project, but if you plan on hanging up more and more things it's a good idea to practice your household handiness. good luck!

u/MattsPeppers · 3 pointsr/HotPeppers

It's this. https://www.amazon.com/Akro-Mils-10164-Plastic-Storage-Hardware/dp/B000LDH3JC/

I have something similar. I keep mine in paper coin envelopes and have silica gel packets in each drawer to keep moisture down.

u/musinou · 3 pointsr/arduino

I don't know what /u/grizzly_wintergreen had in mind, but I have something more like this:


I would not go for anything open, as it can get dusty. As those are transparent drawers, you can see inside them without opening.

u/ttirado · 3 pointsr/Locksmith

I have used these and they work great. They do have some different configurations for larger drawers and they are mountable. The bins are almost the same size as a standard 50 keyblank box from ilco.



u/NekoOtaku · 3 pointsr/beadsprites

I bought one of these. I got the dividers so each drawer can hold two colors.

u/Tuckertcs · 3 pointsr/LegoStorage
u/neuromonkey · 3 pointsr/DIY

> heard a loud popping sound.

From where? Could she localize it? From your breaker box, or elsewhere? Worst case situation, someone made a crappy splice somewhere in the circuit, and it gave out.

Assuming you have a meter... (if not, get one, as well as a plug-in outlet tester that shows proper wiring of hot, neutral & ground wires (when you have power,))

With the breaker OFF--or disconnected altogether if you have a suspect breaker...

  • Test resistance between hot, neutral and ground. Any connection? There shouldn't be. If you see some current making it through, you've got a short.

  • Test continuity between the hot slots from each outlet to the next. Do the same for neutral and ground. (ground prolly won't be the problem.) If continuity disappears between one outlet and the next, you've got a wiring fault in between somewhere. Test from the outlet holes and from terminals to find a screwed up outlet.

  • Pull each outlet on that circuit and carefully examine every terminal connection and splice. Any burnt odors, melted insulation, or carbon charring on metal? If so, replace the bad bits.

    Sometimes breakers can trip without seeming to, eg. the switch doesn't move, but it blows internally. Test your breaker with a meter. With any luck, the circuit with all the dead outlets was wired in a straight series. Sometimes people wire branches, which makes finding a problem a bit trickier.

    Also... With the circuit breaker on, use your meter to test between all the blades of each outlet to see if you're getting any current anywhere. Hot & neutral should show 110-120 volts, and hot & ground should as well. People frequently mis-wire outlets. One of these testers will reveal improper wiring. (once you have power restored.)

    In new construction many states require Arc Fault Interrupter outlets in bedrooms. Got any of those in the circuit? Any GFI outlets in a bathroom or wet area?
u/NotAddicted · 3 pointsr/teslamotors

It's not a terribly complicated concept. You're basically hacking together a 240v circuit. Here's a site that explains how to build your own clone.

Edit: You probably don't want to try to use something like this on a circuit that's already sketchy. For example, it isn't unheard-of for a previous homeowner to have ignorantly swapped hot and neutral on a circuit when they replaced a socket. A Quick220-like device will end up directly shorting such a circuit, and that's not good. In fact it's "burst into flames" bad if the breaker is also faulty. Get yourself a tester and know how to read the lights.

u/tubezninja · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Well, it depends.

A cheater plug should have a tab at the bottom. That tab is supposed to be attached to the screw that you'd find in the center of the outlet, between the top and bottom receptacles.

On some of these older outlets, the receptacle box itself is grounded, so, screwing the cheater tab in properly will act as a ground for your cheater plug. The question is, are your outlet boxes grounded? They might or might not be. Only way to be sure would be to use an outlet tester after it's installed.

This of course also means you're going to need to cut off power at the breaker box while your'e screwing around with the outlets, to avoid electrocuting yourself. And if you're not comfortable with messing around with outlets, don't risk it.

u/notaneggspert · 3 pointsr/DiWHY

These are $4 and idiot proof. I honestly wouldn't know how to check ground/neutral with a multi-meter.

Edit: Splurge on the $7 tester with a GFCI test, even if you're not replacing your bathroom receptacle you can double check it works.

u/tyescott · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

Buy one of these and plug it in. It'll let you know if the receptacle is wired wrong. They can be had at nearly any home improvement store as well


u/hobbykitjr · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Buy one of these


Test all of them.

it will not tell you when you need an outlet replaced. It will only show you if the outlet is wired correctly or incorrectly. Make sure that when you push your GFCI back into the box that no bare copper is touching bare copper on the neutral/white conductor in the box. Also make sure that the conductors are tight in the terminal screws of your GFCI. You probably need to replace your GFCI with a new one if none of the previous suggestions work. Make sure that you turn the power off to the receptacle prior to removing it from the outlet box & working on the device

u/AnotherButtHole · 3 pointsr/gadgets

I'm a Jr. Sysadmin / tech support person where I work and this is what I use. The skeletool is pretty handy just to carry around on a daily basis. The ifixit toolkit has bits that helped me work on all sorts of stuff including Apple products. Hell, I even found a bit to tighten a screw on my office chair. The magnetic bowl is definitely worth it if your company pays for it! :)

Leatherman Skeletool +
ifixit tool kit + Magnet bowl

u/Gator_Stubby · 3 pointsr/Knife_Raffle

My friend this tool can be bought @ amazon for $41 brand new. https://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-Skeletool-Multi-Tool-Stainless-Steel/dp/B000XU9NXW

I am not sure where you keep getting the prices from! You will need to adjust it down to atleast this price. Ideally a little under.

u/SwiebelKuchen · 3 pointsr/Survival

Really nice multitools they are around $30-40, it's kind of the perfect gift. Try the Leatherman skeletool

u/aje14700 · 3 pointsr/knives

For EDC, consider a Skeletool for your next purchase. Honestly it's one of my most used tools, and I love it. I have the CX version which looks slightly cooler and has slightly better steel, but the normal version is still awesome (aparently they jumped in price on amazon though...).

u/yasec · 3 pointsr/EDC

Leatherman Skeletool is a great item, which you should be able to get in that range. I got the upgraded Skeletool CX for under that from r/knife_swap.

If you want smaller try the Leatherman Style or Gerber Dime . The Style comes with scissor main tool or pliers.

Full size I’d suggest the Leatherman Wingman .

u/Darkcheops · 3 pointsr/EDC

My two most used items I got off amazon.

Kingston Datatraveler: The most solidly built flash drive I've been able to find for the money so far. They have a 3.0 version now but it looks like the key chain is made out of plastic.

Leatherman Skeletool: Good multitool that is versatile without being cumbersome.

u/gtNonja · 3 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I purchased the Leatherman Skeletool for my groomsmen. In retrospect, I'm not sure if they all use them since some of them live out of town, but I bought myself the Leatherman Skeletool CX and carry it daily. I think it makes a great pocketknife replacement since it's small, and having the added tools is very handy. I did have the pliers break on me, but Leatherman replaced the entire unit through their lifetime warranty. Fill out a form and send it in; I didn't have to provide proof of purchase.

If you go the Zippo route, it might be nice to have them engraved with the groomsmen's name and a short note. My wife did something similar for me as part of gift one year.

I think a Leatherman is a good pick, and I'd get the same thing for everyone. A personalized item for each person is nice too (i.e. each person gets something completely different), but that makes the selection process longer. So it depends on how much work you want to put into it.

u/MountainDewFountain · 3 pointsr/AskEngineers

Wife got me a leatherman Skeletool with a carabiner clip a few years ago. I wear it every single day on my belt loop. Best multi-tool I have ever owned and it's been my go to gitf for secret Santa for years.


u/phareous · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

There is a zigbee controller that works with the hue hub. I have it and it works great, though it is difficult to connect the wires to it


u/cmlaney · 3 pointsr/amazonecho

The easiest way is to get a GE Fan Controller and a compatible hub, such as SmartThings, Wink, or Vera.

u/fatmanwithalittleboy · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

Building off of /u/Terrancelee

They are called Fan speed controls


u/Unheard · 3 pointsr/SmartThings

For your fan, take a look at this. It allows you to control the speed of the fan without having to click the chain. Leave the fan on high and let the switch work its magic. I love the one I have in my living room.

u/Toger · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

[GE 12730 Z-Wave Smart Fan Control] (http://amzn.com/B00PYMGVVQ) is what I installed. The picture doesn't show it but there are are a set of 3 LEDs on the vertical plastic strip that show the speed setting selected. I must have dreamed that.

u/thylacoleo_carnifex · 3 pointsr/flashlight


I like this one

RovyVon Aurora Luminous Body, 550 Lumens Outdoor Mini EDC Rechargeable High Bright Multi-Functional Flashlight, with Reading Light and Red Warning Light, Idea as a Gift https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F5H3CFH

u/BatteryLicker · 3 pointsr/Ultralight

Kershaw Skyline is an affordable option.

u/pologreen94 · 3 pointsr/EDC
u/skipsmagee · 3 pointsr/knives

Seconded. I just retired my M16 combo tanto because the handle is uncomfortable, boxy, and thick; and the blade angles are weird and very hard to sharpen well. For $35, I recommend the Kershaw Skyline (the same length as the M16, here it is in orange) or Scallion. I haven't had a Tenacious, and it seems large for my tastes, but for Spyderco a Dragonfly ($45) is next on my list.

u/free2game · 3 pointsr/knives

If you go up to $30-40 you can find a lot of great american made knives in that range like a Kershaw Skyline ($35), Salvo ($30), or Buck 110 Paperstone ($30) Classic ($35), Vantage Avid ($34)
BTW, a good pocket clip shouldn't be uncomfortable in your hand. None of the pocket knives I've owned have dug into my hand at all. The Buck is a nice option if you don't want a clip though.

u/voraidicon · 3 pointsr/knives

The SOG Flash 1 is spring assisted. It is a kickass blade and extremely lightweight. Around $35.

Then there is the Benchmade Emissary 470. Just a brilliant, brilliant blade. Practically sexy. $160-ish though, so I'll never have one in my pocket.

I just did a huge amount of research and decided against the spring assist. I like the super fast deployment, a lot; however, I found that many knives deploy just as fast because they are made so damn well. I just picked up the Kershaw Skyline 1760 for $35 and it is awesome. Spring assists have more parts to break, and more parts mean higher manufacturing costs.

Notable mention, the Kershaw Chill for about $16 most places.

Sorry for the amazon links, they are just easy to find. Also, I am new to this game so wait for some constructive criticism from more experienced users about my recommendations. And finally check some youtube reviews, I trust nutnfancy's reviews all day.

u/LefseBL · 3 pointsr/EDC

Just to throw another idea out there: Kershaw Skyline. It's not spring assisted, but it's bound to be more reliable, and it's right around your price range. Made in America, too.


u/SuperiorRobot · 3 pointsr/guns

Put nothing in the stocking. Only put things in molle attached pockets. Mags, ammo, and a decent knife could easily get you to $150.


I bought this recently and really like it.

u/SrSkippy · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Get an outlet tester. Use it on every receptacle affected by the work including those in other parts of the house that might be on the circuits directly affected.

Get a multimeter. Use the AC testing function on the part that shocked you. Connect the red wire to the right most socket on the meter and put the probe and where you touched that shocked you. Put the black wire in the center socket on the meter and put the probe in the ground pin of a nearby receptacle. If you get any constant AC voltage over 1V, you have an issue with the power supply within the dryer (most likely).

Also use the multimeter on your outlet the dryer is fed from. You should put the black probe in the ground, and the red in each of the three (or two if your dryer is older) other holes in that receptacle. You should get two of them that measure 120V AC, and one that measures 0 AC and less than 1 V DC. Then measure from one hot to the other and just confirm you get 240V AC. If you get these values and you saw a voltage when testing the inside of the dryer, the dryer is the issue. Anything else means the wiring is borked.

The $20 you spend on these will be less than 1/3 of the cost of hiring an electrician to come out and even think about the issue.

It could also be static buildup inside the dryer caused by a loose or severed grounding strap inside. Try to connect a wire from the inside to the carpet/floor in your home with an insulated wire if all of the above comes back normal - don't try this first in case there is an AC voltage issue...

u/kc2syk · 3 pointsr/rfelectronics

Hi. There's a couple things you can do to reduce RFI. Like you said, you can use a shielded cable. It would help if you can connect both ends to ground -- but make sure your electrical mains entrance ground is correct and up to code. You should have a ground rod right below the entrance, and it should be connected to your panel. All lines should be grounded lines, and you should have 3-prong outlets for all circuits. Get an outlet tester to be sure all sockets are wired correctly.

Another thing you can do is add ferrites on all wires going into and out of the HVAC units (power, data, everything). These act as RF filters.

Now bluetooth and microwave ovens use the same frequency band (2.4 GHz). Its not unusual for some low level RF energy to leak out of microwave ovens, and overpower a low-power data connection like bluetooth. But if its more than a low-power leak it may indicate a faulty oven, or a bad ground.

Its possible you have a nearby intermittent transmitter that is affecting things. It could be an airport thing, or maybe a two-way radio like for police or fire, or maybe a neighbor with a CB radio or ham radio. If this is a licensed user and they have a correctly engineered installation, its up to your devices to accept interference. Proper grounding and filtering will help though.

I hope this gives you someplace to start. Good luck.

u/phracture · 3 pointsr/buildapc

If you are curious about outlets and want to safely check them to see if they are set up properly, buy one of these or an equivalent: https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-3-Wire-Receptacle-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA

Should be available at most hardware stores also. Not sure if they have these for other non american outlet types

u/jmdbcool · 3 pointsr/pics

That's the cheapo version; spend the extra couple bucks and get the GE model which will last forever.

u/scramblor · 3 pointsr/ToobAmps

Are you properly grounding the amp and is your house properly grounded?

You can get something like this on amazon for pretty cheap to test your outlets.

u/zrevyx · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

*pout* That kit has now officially dropped in price about 60% since I purchased mine just under two years ago. :-(

It's a freakin' awesome soldering station though!

Next on my list is the FR-300 or -301 desoldering gun. For now though, I'll continue to use my Engineer SS-02.

u/westfallian · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

Do not get a cheap radioshack soldering iron. Get a cheap Chinese soldering iron off amazon. Something with a digital temp gauge. I’ll edit this comment with a link to the one I have later. Their are a couple different methods to this job. Some people get little angled clippers and clip the 4 legs off of the tact switch and then heat up the solder and pull out the legs this method is easy but you risk cutting into the board. The other method is to properly use a solder sucker / solder wick and desolder the old switches. Do not hold the soldering iron to this board for too long you will pull traces. Believe me I did it my first time. Soldering is not that difficult but with everything the more you practice the better you become. I think some early mistakes are using too much solder, you really don’t need a lot.

My soldering set up: Soldering iron

better solder tip cleaner

better solder sucker

better solder (reccomended)

Also if you’re soldering leaded solder indoors maybe think about your health and what you’re inhaling.
air filter

Last words: everything in that kit will get you by just fine. Personally I think the solder it comes with is garbage. I hate the cheap solder suckers and I use them so often I bought that other one. Keep your iron tips clean. This means basically run some solder on the tip and dunk it in that gold wire mesh often. If your tip is getting dark it’s getting too hot and will have a harder time flowing solder. Keep it nice and shiny.

u/trustifarian · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Easier and probably cheaper to replace the board. You can get a [Masterkeys Pro L RGB with blues for $120] (https://www.amazon.com/MasterKeys-Mechanical-Keyboard-Intelligent-Switches/dp/B01D3BDNF6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486493487&sr=8-1&keywords=masterkeys%2Bpro%2Bl&th=1) or the Pro S TKL for $100.

Your other option is to buy a soldering iron, a desoldering pump, some switches to replace your browns, pray to whatever deity you believe in so that you don't damage the pcb when you remove the old switches. You'd also need to desolder the LEDs and resolder them once you have replaced the switches. IF your soldering skills aren't up to snuff you can damage the board beyond repair.

u/TomLum · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

On the cheap ones, I do remove the iron before activating the suction. If you have a lot of desoldering to do, this one doesn’t require you to remove the tip and does a much better job.
Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MJMXD4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/umarth7 · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

It really sucks.

u/w0odyallen · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

For sure. I've made my fair share of desoldering mistakes and they aren't fun. First tip, find a tool you like, some swear by wick, and some use desoldering irons, for me it was simply this desoldering pumpwhich features a silicone tip that makes it easier to create a seal. Second, don't leave the iron on the PCB for too long. Three seconds should do it. If its doesn't, take it off, find another angle, and put it down again. Leaving it on for much longer risks damaging the PCB. Third, make sure you get ALL the solder off the pin, if it looks like you got 90% save for a tiny bit touching the edge, DO NOT try to forcibly remove the switch, you risk yanking out the small metal ringlet within each hole of the PCB. Instead, reapply some solder and try sucking it up again. When a switch is properly desoldered, it should pop right out when you squeeze in the little clips on the top and bottom of the switch. Never apply tremendous force when trying to remove a switch (this usually means you haven't fully desoldered).
And finally, if you do make a mistake, it's not the end of the world. A broken switch is easy enough to replace and a damaged PCB is possible to repair just by running a wire (which means soldering a connection between the two points that were disconnected by the damage).

u/animedj · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

How about if you use a smart switch (https://www.amazon.com/GE-12722-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2) ? You can use as many regular bulbs you want, and to configure you would be configuring only 1 device (the switch) instead of each bulb

u/mrjoey35 · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

A couple of simple Zwave switches will fit there no problem. I've been slowing replacing all the
switches in my house with them

u/jam905 · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

FYI, the paddle-style GE/Jasco binary switches also have an air-gap. So, pulling it out is another way to reset the switch and is probably easier than flipping a breaker.

u/dfcHeadChair · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

I'm still not sure why you would just replace the existing light switches with Z-Wave smart switches. You would be able to use whatever bulbs you wanted. Any time a bulb went bad you wouldn't have to spring for $30-$50 for a single bulb.

And if the owner didn't like the smart lighting, you could leave in the existing switches, or worst case replacement them with dumb switches just as you planned.

Maybe I'm not understanding something. Could you help explain why you went with all of the bulbs over the switches? I'm not seeing any advantage in doing so.

u/5GallonsOfMayonaise · 3 pointsr/DIY


You could do it one of a couple of ways. Both ways would have you installing a z-wave light switch to replace your existing one, soemething like

Then you could either get a lamp modules for the lights, like this


but that would add a lot of bulk to your setup, so instead i would probably look at replacing your power outlet iwth a zwave outlet like


So once you pair the switch and the outlet, when you pressed the switch it would not only power on your existing lights, but also turn on/off the top receptacle of the outlet as well

u/saunjay1 · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

I have one 4-way setup in my house; I used the GE zwave light switch and 2 add-on switches. One main switch and then two add-on switches will run you less than $100.

u/traCkready · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

Might I ask what is keeping you from using an entire switch replacement? Not sure what country your in, but there are plenty available on Amazon.

Installation isn't hard per say, but if you don't feel comfortable its certainly not worth electrocuting yourself or having a fire hazard. It mostly involves cutting power off at the breaker, confirming power is off at the switch, removing the 3 wires from the existing switch and moving them over to their appropriate location. Now, many z-wave switches require a neutral wire, depending on the age of your residence this may or may not be an issue. If you do have a neutral wire it won't be connected to the existing switch, you will likely have to unbundle it from the back of the receptacle box.

This is a on/off zwave switch, it sounds like you are using phillips hue bulbs in the receptacles. In this case you don't want a dimmer, the dimming is done internally on the bulbs circuitry

This is a dimmer zwave switch, this would be good for incandescent bulbs, some dimmable cfl and LED bulbs will work but you will likely need to look at compatibility. Some dimmable cfl/led don't play well with certain switches, you might get inconsistent dimming performance, buzzing or flickering as most common side effects of a poorly matched bulb.

Edit: Adding a few Amazon links for example w/ explaination

u/phil_g · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

GE's toggle-style switches (12727, switch; 12728, add-on switch; 12729, dimmer) will fit into an existing toggle setup, but they don't stay up and down like a regular toggle switch does. They're always pointing straight out in the middle and you press them up or down to turn the light on and off (or hold the dimmer up or down to brighten and dim, respectively). They return to their center position as soon as you let go.

I like the decora series a little better (12722, switch; 12723, add-on switch; 12724, dimmer). They have a little LED on them that indicates the current status of the light. The toggle-style switches don't have any indication of whether they're on or off, which is kind of a bummer for outside lights.

One thing to be aware of for the add-on switches: they require a traveler wire, but can only be paired with GE primary switches. The traveler doesn't carry full line voltage; it's just used for the add-on switch to signal the primary when the add-on's been pressed.

u/KashEsq · 3 pointsr/googlehome

There are no SmartThings branded switches. SmartThings is a central hub that is capable of controlling a vast array of third-party smart home devices. When you link it with Google Home, voice commands to the Home will be sent to the SmartThings hub, which will then trigger the smart home device based on how you set it up in the SmartThings app.

For example, you have a smart light switch installed in your kitchen that is labeled "Kitchen Lights" in the SmartThings app. When you say "Hey Google, turn off Kitchen Lights" the SmartThings hub will trigger the smart light switch to the "off" position. No need for smart bulbs, just swap out your current "dumb" light switch for a smart one and you'll be able to control your light fixture.

I personally have several GE 12722 Z-Wave Switches installed in my apartment, which are controlled by SmartThings and Google Home. The light fixtures have regular, run-of-the-mill LED bulbs in them. I issue voice commands like "Turn on/off Kitchen Lights" or "Turn on/off Bedroom Lights" and the switches activate near-instantly. Delay can be measured in milliseconds. Much better than the laggy IFTTT.

Check out the Works with SmartThings page to see the vast multitude of smart home devices that can be controlled by the hub.

u/tacotruck7 · 3 pointsr/spicy

How about one of these

u/LAsportsPSYCHO · 3 pointsr/reactiongifs

Changed my life and get one of these too.

u/ViveSuperUSANumber1 · 3 pointsr/Vive

Christmas tree light remote..

It overpowers all steam VR updates fo’ever

Etekcity Wireless Remote Control Electrical Outlet Switch for Household Appliances, Wireless Remote Light Switch, White (Learning Code, 5Rx-2Tx) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_k2IFAbYV9CP4Q

u/telekinetic · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

I actually was looking for the information on the one i bought to post after I hit submit on my comment. [Etekcity Wireless Remote Control Electrical Outlet Switch for Household Appliances, White (Learning Code, 5Rx-2Tx)] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_FkNjxbPQZMPPN) P6OGMCD7 promotion code gets you $8.50 off right now, which gets it to $21.48 with free Prime shipping for five outlets and two remotes. You can actually do even better than interfacing with the remote, since the protocol is wrll documented at 433mhz, and you can just buy a couple dollar transmitter board and interface it to your arduino or RPi or whatever.

u/Ampsnotvolts · 3 pointsr/Vive

But honestly the small hangers they include are pretty good and running your light house up to a permanent place on the wall isn't a bad deal considering it gets rid of any space concerns.

But consider something like this as well - https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Household-Appliances-Unlimited-Connections/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1551114394&sr=8-6&keywords=remote+switch

So you can turn stuff on and off from one area and don't have to plug/unplug each lighthouse when you want to use or put away. Something like this lets you just control power remotely. I had AUKEY ones that apparently aren't sold anymore so I can't link them. There should be some better ones that are smaller in my opinion, but it made turning off the whir/whine sound of the lighthouses much easier than plugging/unplugging them over and over.

u/cleansweep9 · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

So you want the other lamps to turn on when you turn on the switched outlet?

The sarcastic answer is: extension cords.

Non-sarcastic, I'm not aware of any consumer RF product that detects when an outlet turns on and sends out a signal to other smart plugs to also turn on.

I think the closest thing you'll find at the budget you're talking about are these Etekcity wireless wall plugs. I would forget about the switched outlet, and just use command strips to stick the remotes at locations you like, so all the lamps can be controlled by the remotes.

u/myk_o · 3 pointsr/battlestations
u/jmintha · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I've used https://www.amazon.ca/Etekcity-Programmable-Wireless-Control-Learning/dp/B00DQELHBS/ to do the same thing and they worked great. I also had some older ones from years ago that I got working too, although it turned out that they used 315MHz instead of 433MHz, so I got added a 315MHz transmitter and now I can control both groups from the same Pi.

u/snarfy · 3 pointsr/arduino

These things are your best bet. Then you just need to control the remote using the arduino, and nothing on your end is exposed to line voltages. You'll be hard pressed to source the parts yourself and build something cheaper than what you can buy pre-made.

u/Orpheus321 · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Home automation is fun as hell too. You can get some RF outlets and an RF Transmitter and Receiver and hook them up to your pi and then install Home Assistant to control it all from your phone.
This was just one quick tutorial I looked up that explains it pretty well. I've got the same thing on my setup. You can program command line switches into it, so anything you normally do from the command line you can program into Home Assistant as a button. Backups, file transfers, ssh commands, bash scripts, anything.

So I've got Tasker and when my phone connects to my home's wifi it will trigger the job in Tasker to start the CL switch in Home Assistant called "Home" and it runs a bash script to basically send the RF codes to turn on power strips for computer/ monitors, send a Wake On Lan (WOL) packet to turn on my computer, send an SSH command to an IR transmitter to turn on my AC, and send an RF signal to turn on the radio. AND, if you set up your own OpenVPN server at home you can log in remotely to your local network and turn on your RF outlets from anywhere. Telling you, you can get deep lol. If you ever need any help I'll do what I can.

u/gvfb60 · 3 pointsr/ActionFigures

I used this www.amazon.com/Flexible-Non-waterproof-Christmas-Decoration-Daylight/dp/B00HSF65MC the cool thing is that you can cut them and splice them together with wires to have them spread out over shelves. There's also a wireless remote to turn them off or dim them for only a few bucks more.

u/Norberces · 3 pointsr/kancolle

Sure first here's the LED strips, Power Adapters, and Dimmer. Looks like they've gone up in price a bit since I did it but it's still not too bad. I didn't take any in progress pictures so I'll just have to describe how setup went. The LED strips come with a sticky back side so I just stuck that to the poles on the front side of the Detolf. I used 1 LED strip, 1 dimmer, and 1 power adapter per 2 Detolfs but you could also use 1 strip per Detolf. This will give you more even lighting, and the power adapter should still be able to handle powering 2 fine, you'd just need to also buy a connector for the 2 strips. After you've got the stuff its as simple as just taping on the stip in a |‾| running from the outside poles and across the top of the Detolf, running the power cord outside of it through the gap in the door, and the plugging in the dimmer.

u/gamplayerx · 3 pointsr/MakeupAddiction

I have seen people post about using these LED strips - they're pretty cheap. They also sell them bundled with the adaptor and remote.

u/JennaroniPepperoni · 3 pointsr/AnimeFigures

Thanks so much! I highly recommend these LED strips. They're paper thin so they bend easily at the corners of a detolf. You'll need this adapter for the power.

My only complaint about them is that they're a little too bright at first. You get used to them though! You can't beat this nice even white lighting and the ease of installation.

u/Staas · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

This should do it for you.

u/thepenner4 · 3 pointsr/metalearth

Michael's has coupons for one item at 50% off from time to time so I was able to get the cases for $30 each.

Here is the light strip that I got:

This is enough to do both cases. For the power since I do not have them hung up where I would like them to be yet I just got a battery pack. This is the one that I am using now:


I then bought the a Y adapter so that I could power both strips at the same time.

u/troy_proffitt · 3 pointsr/DIY

I used LED tape found off Amazon...super cheap:


I just used 22 gauge wire I got from Home Depot to solder the positive / negative to a 12v power supply. To turn the lights on and off, I just used a cheap limit switch:



I'll try to take some pictures when I get home tonight.

u/msucurt · 3 pointsr/homegym

I bought these after a suggestion from another person on this forum. I didn't think they would work, but WOW, it made a huge difference. Brightened my area unbelievably good. First link is the LED lights. Second link is the adapter to be able to plug it in.

I just wrapped mine around the inside of my window.

LE 16.4ft LED Flexible Strip Lights, 300 Units SMD 3528 LEDs, 12V DC Non-waterproof, Light Strips, LED ribbon, DIY Christmas Holiday Home Kitchen Car Bar Indoor Party Decoration (Daylight White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_r-dzybVRAW2Y5

LE Power Adapter, Transformers, Power Supply For LED Strip, Output 12V DC, 3A Max, 36 Watt Max, UL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ObezybTYECE37

u/completelydeck · 3 pointsr/buildapc

LE 16.4ft LED Flexible Light Strip, 300 Units SMD 2835 LEDs, 12V DC Non-water... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_x_9znKzbQJP3HW3 via @amazon

Or if you want color changing lights...

u/interface2x · 3 pointsr/metalearth

Sure, I got it at IKEA - [this] (http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/60128562/) is the exact shelf. I bought the LED lights off of Amazon [here] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_?ie=UTF8&psc=1) (though you need to buy a power adapter, as well).

u/RouletteZoku · 3 pointsr/funkopop

I have those lights. Here they are in a Michael's baseball bat display case, running on a rechargeable battery. Specifically this battery. They're surprisingly bright. That was just a test setup to get an idea of what the case would look like.

I've got a glow case that I started working on today. Seen here using these UV LEDs

u/mobscura · 3 pointsr/SavageGarden

T5s are pretty much the standard for growing carnivores indoors. I think you could get by with just one more tube and have a 2-bulb fixture. You could probably fit a 4-tube fixture within that 12.5" width, but that does become more costly.

You can get LED lights that look normal and not super weird. Here's some options for daylight-balanced bulbs. I also currently use LED stringlights like these in a small grow bucket.

It's really up to you. Also consider how much energy you want to use (how many watts) and how long you want to keep the lights running.

Whichever route you choose, I would also attach some foil or mylar to the sides of the terrarium to bounce the light back onto the plants. You can get by without super strong lights if you don't let it all spill out and keep it reflected back onto the plants.

u/MobileNerd · 3 pointsr/Hue

Yes you can but you need to get an FLS-PP ballast so they can communicate with HUE. I am not sure how yours are hooked up but the 4 individual strips need to be connected to each other. You would get rid of your existing controller and power supply. The new FLS-PP ballast needs 12V run to it. You can use your current power supply if it is 12v but you would need to cut the end off it as it's directly wired to the new ballast. The only thing you would need to do is then hook the 12V-R-G-B from the RGB strip to the ballast. Should be about a 5-10 minute job. Once you hook the ballast up search for new devices in your HUE app and it will show up as 2 devices a color lamp and a white one. If you are using RGB strips then you can ignore the white lamp. If you are using RGBW stripes then you can use both.

Going this route would fully integrate you LED's with HUE. Having said that you would not be using the remote to control the loght anymore. You would be using the HUE App or Alexa if you want to use voice commands.

You can get one here : https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485270154&sr=8-1&keywords=fls-pp

u/cavalier695 · 3 pointsr/Hue

They do exist but I'm not sure how popular a Hue blacklight would be.

You could create your own today if you really wanted. A simple UV light strip (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C2NQWIQ/) along with the DE FLS-PP controller (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/) should do the trick. You'd connect the UV strip to the white channel of the controller (ignoring RGB) and Hue would see your backlight as a white bulb.

u/irrg · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

It's not CHEAP, but, cheap-er: This ballast plays well with the Hue hub (it speaks zigbee) and I've got it attached to two $12/ea rolls of LED strip from China:


u/jamminred · 3 pointsr/Hue

I have about 30 ft worth of LED strips on my porch with my hue system. I am using the FLS-PP Zigbee controller with IP67 rated LED strips. It is in a location that wont have any direct contact with water (on porch ceiling). I put some electrical tape around the connections to help water proof it a little more though.
So far 1.5 months and no issues yet.

As for the hue branded strips, I am not sure I would put those outside because.
1 - they are expensive. 30ft of strips and the FLS-PP controller cost about the same price as the starter Lightstrip plus kit. $90 roughly. So if it does die I am not out the $400-$500?? for a comparable Hue light strip plus with enough extensions
2 - the connections are not very waterproof on the hue brand. If they will see any contact with water they will corrode I think. I will just keep those on the back of my TVs for now.

u/chiefos · 2 pointsr/self

> including replumbing your bathroom(s)

Don't believe so, I think most hook right to the tank and do a gravity/water pressure feed. - http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RX2UI

u/I_Can_Haz_Brainz · 2 pointsr/shutupandtakemymoney

Like all the other rebranded models bought from the same manufacturer.

Same except with the hot water line.

u/StarblindCelestial · 2 pointsr/todayilearned

I have had this one for a year or two and am happy with it. You should stop considering and just do it you won't regret it.

You could pay less for one without hot water, but cold water is pretty cold (especially in the morning). Cold water in the winter feels freezing. Cold water on your asshole in winter is a nightmare. An extra $25 for ass freezing protection is well worth the cost. There's an added bonus of your sink water being warm right away as well if you have a slower water heater like I do.

u/mobyhead1 · 2 pointsr/explainlikeimfive

I think some people think bidets are "decadent" or "high-falutin." Or disreputable, since a bidet could be used to masturbate. Plus, if you go into a home improvement store you're more likely to see this, which takes up additional space in the bathroom, is probably cold to sit on--or do you straddle it? Looks damned uncomfortable! Or they hear about those multiple-thousand-dollar Japanese bidets, and think one would have to be crazy to spend that much vs. toilet paper and a little effort.

But I bought myself the predecessor of this bidet Not very expensive, doesn't take up much space, runs both hot and cold water. And it is superior to toilet paper in every way.

u/WebMaka · 2 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

Forget the 120, step up to the 320. Hot/cold instead of just cold.


(At this price point I might have to pick one up. Didn't realize the hot/cold models had come down this much in price.)

u/SuminderJi · 2 pointsr/nba

I have this one

And this one

The second one is more expensive and honestly I like the first one (cheaper) one better. Plus the lever knob on the second one broke. The bidet works fine just has this plastic square you gotta push back instead of having that lever. If I had to buy again I'd just buy the cheaper one for all my bathrooms.

It'll be weird the first few days and you will need to use TP to dry off but after that you'll look down on all the plebs that don't have a clean bunghole.

u/amskeez · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

So the ultimate splurge would be the toto neorest with elongated bowl. Alas, that’s too bougie for my budget I settle for the bidet attachment from amazon. This this super economical one is a greater starter bidet. The tushy brand is a little nicer option as well.

u/4BigData · 2 pointsr/AskMen
u/Mr_Marc · 2 pointsr/AskMen

Here in America we've developed technology that attaches right to the bowel.

Luxe Bidet Neo 320 - Self Cleaning Dual Nozzle - Hot and Cold Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (blue and white) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RX2UI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_u-pywb93CG6C5

u/AntediluvianEmpire · 2 pointsr/news


I actually never bothered to hook up the cold water, as I didn't bother to clip the hose for the hot, so the water pretty much just comes out cold and gradually warms up. Install was easy, aside from the fact that my toilet crammed in a corner.

u/humplick · 2 pointsr/videos

I have been thinking about getting a bidet. Is this the same model?

u/ElfMage83 · 2 pointsr/AskAnAmerican

Maybe you were thinking of something like this. What's in the picture I linked in my OP is a standalone bidet.

u/travisd05 · 2 pointsr/AskMen

You could up your budget a little and get the one I got. It also has a hot water hookup and it has a second nozzle, a "women's" nozzle.


u/Aquifel · 2 pointsr/amazonecho

I personally use a hook ( http://www.gethook.io , $50 USD), which works as a wifi to rf bridge allowing you to use Alexa to control very cheap outlets like these:


It's not perfect, I do have to repeat myself occasionally, but it's tremendously more reliable than the wemo switches I have. Those etekcity outlets frequently have coupon codes that will make them a good bit cheaper, but if you only need to control 1-2 outlets, the initial cost of the hook may still make it not very cost effective.

u/Kinaestheticsz · 2 pointsr/battlestations

If you can't use a sensing power strip, you can do what I did with my HS5s. Get one of those remote controlled outlet units like this: https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484561260&sr=8-3&keywords=Remote+control+outlet

Then attach your studio monitor power cables get to a power strip, and plug the power strip into that outlet. That way you can use the remote control to turn them on and off. Just leave the power switch on your monitors turned on.

u/filthy_flamingo · 2 pointsr/arduino

Similar to what neuromancer_pl said: I have a little arduino-based remote that controls all of my lighting, TV, and A/C unit (obviously not anymore.. but I may extend it with a relay to work with my space heater).

For the lamp controls I use a 433 MHz transmitter to replace the remotes that came with these outlets.

For the TV and AC remote part I have two IR LEDs to replace each respective stock remote (used a IR receiver to discover which encoding to use for each).

Finally a HC05 bluetooth module that lets me talk to the arduino through an android app I made.

u/lgodsey · 2 pointsr/AskOldPeople

My mother is a retired nurse, and if you know anyone who worked in healthcare, they will tell you the last place they want is a nursing home. She would likely die within a few weeks, absolutely no exaggeration. So we have a nice wheelchair ramp into her home, plenty of rails in her walk-in shower, a nice seat and plenty of room to maneuver her walker. She has a push-button recliner and a handy remote control to turn on her bedroom lights and heater.

She is disabled, so I have to help her dress and cook for her and frequently pick up after her, but her mind is sharp and she takes care of her finances. It's just random things she needs help with, like her hearing and lack of dexterity makes it impossible to use automated phone menus, stuff like that. Every fall we buy cracked pecans that she opens to extract nutmeats, which helps her retain some range of movement in her hands.

I live with her now after years of rehabilitation following hospital screw-ups (some sent her to the ICU with organ failures due to hospital/facility incompetence). She has a much better quality of life and, again, both of us know she would be long dead if she were relegated to a nursing home.

u/ChrisGristle · 2 pointsr/AmateurRoomPorn

The floor lights are just three fixtures from Home Depot with a PAR20 LED spotlight bulb. They are pretty cool to the touch, so I think they're ok. I may just upgrade the lighting with dimmable smart bulbs. For the patio, I'm using a 35 watt Grow Light from Amazon. It's temporarily hung from a hurricane shutter rail. All lighting is remote controlled with these.

u/hydrobotproject · 2 pointsr/Hydroponics

It takes reading of water pH, EC, and temperature, as well as air temperature and humidity.

You can adjust how often the reading are taken. The shortest interval is 1 minute.

In the software interface, you can have set points. So for example, pH should be kept between 6.5-6.7. The system will automatically add up or down pH solution to keep that in balance.

Another example would be air temperature. You could say that the air temperature should be between 72-75F and it will turn on fans, air conditioners, or heaters to keep that at the correct value.

All external devices like heaters, fans, lights, etc. are controlled wirelessly from the Hydrobot using commonly found 433mhz wireless outlets like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQELHBS/

u/zanfar · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

Yeah, internet control will cost you.

I've used these around the house with good results. Local remote control only--might work for you.

u/AdrianW3 · 2 pointsr/Vive

Another option to switch the lighthouses on and off is to get some remote controlled sockets - something like these.

u/richaardvark · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Hi there! I have used these types of switches in my home for about a year now and have only had a good experience! However, I have also always been somewhat perplexed about the sheer number of these various branded and non-branded switches available on various sites, that all basically seem to be made of the the same components. This isn't something you really see very often here in the US, mainly due to patent laws. I'm thinking that might really be the reason these switches, and so many other electronic devices from China, exist in the overlapping way they do - I'm thinking it's very likely able to happen due to poorly enforced or non-existent patent laws. That's my main guess anyway... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯


As for my experience with the setup and performance of these switches, I initially came across them out of the necessity of finding a wall switch that did not require a common neutral wire. My home was built in 1950 and half of the wiring in my home does not have a ground wire and most of the circuits are not wired with a common neutral line, which has been the norm/requirement here for most everyone likely since sometime in the 1980s. Unfortunately, most WiFi connected "smart" switches/devices all require a common neutral wire. These have been a lifesaver for me! I found my switches on Amazon and have only purchased "Funry" and "Livolo" branded switches, the versions that work via RF signal. Originally, it seemed that was all they made (the RF kind), but as this IoT/home automation thing has really become such a big market noticed they started producing WiFi and Bluetooth switches, using the same housings and touch panels/exterior components.
Which leads me to my next thought - and I have nothing to base this premonition on, but I have a feeling / feel it can only be prudent to not assume that all of these switches, while appearing nearly identical on the outside, are of the same quality and same technologies on the inside. I have nothing to base this on, and most of these devices aren't certified by the various engineering certification groups (like UL here in the US) anyway and I'm sure some people would say to stay clear of them altogether, but inevitably having spent a lot of my budget on cheaper consumer electronic products made in China/other neighboring regions that are sold online, I've seen this to be the case. However, all I can speak to is the quality of the products from the two manufacturers I mentioned above and my experience has been positive. I mean, I felt they were at least well-made enough that I wasn't completely terrified to install them in my home. I've had no trouble with the switch mechanism itself, and the tempered glass panels do feel and look solid/of quality.


As for trying my best to help provide insight on your three bulleted needs laid out above - I do think it's possible for you to achieve each of those wants; however, I'd say my answer probably echos what I rambled on about above (lol), that the various functions and features can really be very different from one manufacturer to another on these switches, even though they may look the same, at least if you mean right out of the box. With a little bit of configuration (and sometimes a lot), you can connect basically anything to anything these days, one way or another. One problem with not going with a "name-brand" here is that you're also less-likely to get "name-brand" software/apps for the devices. But that may not matter. As I wrote above, the units I've purchased have all been RF-controlled models, so I had to buy a small hub/controller to work with RF. Prior to this Google Home/Alexa explosion, I'd already purchased tons of these wireless plugs/switches and had them connected to devices/lights all over my home, so buying a cheap RF hub and these affordable glass wall switches allowed me to turn what I already had into Google/Alexa-connected devices affordably, instead of having to start from scratch (just throwing that out there if you have anything similar in your setup). I imagine you're wanting just the straight WiFi switches? I can't give any feedback on the particular WiFi version of these switches, but I guess I can say if you find any on eBay from the two brands I mentioned, I'd feel OK about it for my home.

  • the ability to turn them off and on through an app independently, but also as groups

    They likely come from the manufacturer with some junky/not so great, proprietary software/"app" that you'll have to download and use just to get the devices setup anyway, but if you can get them successfully connected to Google Home (or Alexa), then yes, you can turn them on and off independently and can also assign them to groups, for group control. There are dozens and dozens of apps/interfaces out there now to control IoT devices, so I'd have to say yes this is possible. Out of the box, using the manufacturer's app? I don't know... but yes, totally possible.

  • Control them with Google Assistant independently and as groups

    My RF versions, yes. I imagine the WiFi version of these likely can be Google Assistant connected, one way or another, if they're not right out of the box. But I can't totally confirm this one.

  • Have dimming control

    Now this question... based on my working knowledge of these and other similar low-end devices and how they operate and are built, it's quite possible you would not have dimming control with any variety of these switches. I think you'd really need to be certain to buy a model that clearly states it has dimming functionality. I don't believe the majority of these are designed for that - only for on and off. In fact, I have no dimming control on any WiFi or RF-controlled light switch in my home - only on WiFi bulbs I've purchased with dimming capabilities. It seems to me that dimming "smart" switches are only available from some of the more [recognized] name-brand manufacturers and their more expensive, proprietary lighting systems, pretty much all requiring some sort of proprietary hub to control them.
u/ba12348 · 2 pointsr/DIY

Not really. Those power strips are built as a unit and can't really be modified without basically starting over from scratch. You could use one of these to control your outlets, but I don't think they will all fit in one power strip.

u/Atterall · 2 pointsr/electronics

Not sure if you mean a smart plug as meaning a plug which can keep track of things like how much power is consumed or if you just need an outlet which can be switched on and off.

If it is the later (just swtiching an outlet on and off) I've been pretty succesful with my project (so far) of using these Etekcity remote outlets which routinely go on sale @ Amazon.com : http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-ZAP-5LX-Auto-Programmable-Function/dp/B00DQELHBS

Mixed with the knowledge gained from this article: http://www.msilverman.me/2014/01/interfacing-with-remote-controlled-outlets/ it is pretty simple, safe and most importantly to me: cheap to interface the outlets to a wifi enabled device.

Definitely not plug and play by any means but there is no mains voltages to have to worry about fooling around with and if you get your ducks lined up outlets can be very very cheap compared to outlets which come with WiFi connectivity which seem to go from $30/piece to almost a hundred bucks a pop.

EDIT: for a more out of the box solution you might check out Connor Wolf's video here : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjry28Ym7kI where he fiddles with a outlet that is capable of measuring power consumption... If I remember he does do a little work on the software side of things so that he doesn't have to use the smartphone app provided with the outlet.

u/Tony1697 · 2 pointsr/Vive

Mine are on the celling but with wireless sockets. Make shure you don't move them while switching the modes or you'll have to recalibrate.

u/balsawoodextract · 2 pointsr/getdisciplined


Hook these up to a bunch of lamps. Turn them on right when your alarm goes off. Also useful for getting sleepy and really wishing that light was off.

u/UndeadCaesar · 2 pointsr/Vive

I did the same except with these, slightly better per outlet cost but I use the other 4 around my house. If you just want them for lighthouses might as well only get two.

u/ChewWork · 2 pointsr/Workbenches

They provide enough light but aren't super bright, I do have the option of putting another strip across (I only used half) to make it brighter but 1 should be enough. You can't beat the price: LEDs and Power Source . I originally was going to hold them up by zip ties, but the backing is sticky enough to stay on the wire shelf. I'm not sure how well it will stand up in the future but for now it's great.

u/serotoninlove · 2 pointsr/sugarfreemua

Depending on your budget, I just stuck LED strips around an existing mirror because the lighted mirrors were way too pricey for me. I bought something like this with a power adapter and stuck it on (it has adhesive on the back). Super easy, and should be <$20.

u/Nodomi · 2 pointsr/amiibo

That's a nice cabinet. Please don't blow it up with IEDs.

Jokes aside, I often see/hear people recommend these led strips, though not necessarily that particular brand. I've bought colored lights from http://lighthouseleds.com/, but I can't tell you how long they'd last I haven't used them for more than a few months.

u/electricmonk9 · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

I would suggest using a purpose built LED strip. These things are great, you can cut them to any length and they even make waterproof versions. I don't know what voltage the RPi outputs but I believe they even make 5v versions that can be run directly from an Arduino/probably anything outputting a digital signal.

If you're set on using the LEDs you have, you can use an online calculator to figure out exactly what resistors you'll need. It shouldn't be much more complicated than the strips, you'll just have to deal with making some sort of mount/enclosure instead of just sticking them on.

If by 'control' you mean you want to dim them, look into pulse width modulation. The second strip I linked is RGB which you can fairly easily control from an Arduino/probably RPi, don't know the specifics though. Hope that helped, if you have any specific questions let us know.

u/mizary1 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

I am curious why these need to be automated... why not just have a switch? I'd just buy a long strip of LED lights and wire it all up myself. Then if I wanted to automate them I'd plug it all into a smart plug. You will need to drill some holes in the back of the cabinet. maybe do two strips under each shelf.


I'd use something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Kitchen-Christmas-Non-waterproof-Daylight/dp/B00HSF65MC

u/IGL_oo · 2 pointsr/MakeupAddiction

Does your vanity have a built in mirror? If not, Amazon Prime has lots of mirrors with LED lights already on them. They range from like $20+ and all have pretty good reviews!
I've been considering this one:


It is a little more than I wanted to spend but I'm starting my vanity from scratch so I'm gonna need to buy a mirror and lights anyway, this seemed like the best deal in that sense.

But like someone else said, if you already have a mirror these strips are pretty cheap! Plus they're a lot more space-efficient than a lamp!


u/exedy · 2 pointsr/funkopop

Led strips from Amazon, similar to these.

u/pointandclickit · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Not that I have seen. This strip pulls 1.5 amps. I’m not sure what the conductor size on the pcb’s is, but 22ga seems to be common for the extension pieces. I would imagine the pcb traces are smaller.

22ga wire has a an 7 amp rating. Stepping down to 23ga drops to 4.7a. And 3.5a for 24ga.

You can run all of the strips off of a single power supply if you run, say, an 18 gauge power supply wire in parallel with the strips and tap the power for each section directly off of it rather than chaining the strips.

u/VomitSnoosh · 2 pointsr/ActionFigures

LE 16.4ft LED Flexible Light Strip, 300 Units SMD 2835 LEDs, 12V DC Non-waterproof, Light Strips, LED ribbon, DIY Christmas Holiday Home Kitchen Car B https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_2SymgZC3bfdjW

This is the better set! More length, more lights, and better stability! Just have to buy the power adapter!

u/ethioqueen · 2 pointsr/AsianBeauty

i got a cheap vanity on craigslist for $40, painted it matte black, and added these led strips to them!
here's a pic of my setup. sorry its so blurry, the lights are so bright my phone cant focus very well

u/freewaytrees · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

I should add that Purigen is stuffed on top of the filter canister if anyone is attempting to replicate the result.

Yep just a little LED strip behind the back of the tank:

u/BILGERVTI · 2 pointsr/AnimeFigures

Aha I forgot to share when I copied it. This is the exact strip I got, remote is separate and located further down the page, I believe.

u/mcarterphoto · 2 pointsr/analog

I did some photography for a mall store display - we output transparencies and the designer got white plexiglass and clear, and clamped the film between them with c-clamps and hung wires to the clamps. But you could make a sandwich of white and clear plex, and bolt or rivet it together and mount it in front of a light box.

You could also use flexible LED strips as the light source - my understanding is you can cut them and join the wires at the end to make custom sizes or panels.

u/airjam21 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Here's everything I purchased:

  • LED Lights. I needed two strips for my application

  • Power Supply

  • Motion Sensor. I opted for a motion sensor vs. a door sensor because we have a bad habit of leaving the pantry door open and I didn't want the lights to be on all the time. I also bought Velcro tape to adhere the lights to the wall. The LED lights come with a sticky back, but they kept falling off. Shoot me a PM if you have additional questions and good luck!
u/PiperArrow · 2 pointsr/prusa3d

I bought a 12 V LED strip, like this from Amazon. I wired two equal-length strips in series, so that each strip sees 12 V. I then wired that to the PSU, so that whenever the printer is on, the LEDs are on. It works great!

u/Squadz · 2 pointsr/AnimeFigures

This: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

With this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00DKSI0S8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Canadian links, but they have them in other countries.

Very simple to setup - I just put it right next to the rods in the Detolf and went up and around.

u/screamingpigs · 2 pointsr/crafts

Update on the lighting~ I finally got them shipped to me ugh

I ended up using these lights in a figure 8 pattern around the inside of the box (like this). The back is 3M peel and stick adhesive, so it was pretty straight forward as far as attachment. I taped the lights down originally to see if the shape would provide the lighting I wanted and I recommend this. Once the backing was off, the lights were pretty permanent, so this way I could see what they looked like lit up.

I used a piece of white tissue paper to diffuse the light some too, so it would look more evenly lit across the night sky. Maybe colored tissue paper could add some interesting color if someone was looking to do that haha. Distance also helps diffuse the light some too, but I didn't have that much to spare so I stuck with the tissue paper.

I also cut a hole in the back of the box with my exacto knife which was tedious but it worked (a drill would have been faster for sure).

u/DjMcfilthy · 2 pointsr/hometheater

LOL awesome. Did you know that you can diy your own light strips? I got a little carried away when i discovered that ;)

u/Miss_Tomato_Face · 2 pointsr/Hue

I plan on doing this or something similar to this in the future to do permanent Christmas lights on my house. I don't have all of the stuff picked out yet but I do plan on using this ballast to power the LED strips. The ballast is Hue compatible. I don't think it is waterproof but you could maybe stick it in a waterproof box. Ballast: https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ

u/speedyyellow · 2 pointsr/Hue

To be honest at this point it sounds like you’d be better off buying something other than Hue.

You could buy generic 5050 RGBW strips which you could cut and link as you wished from eBay for a fraction of the price of Hue strips.

Add a power supply and a zigbee controller (I have this one: Wireless electronic ballast FLS-PP lp with Power PWM interface for RGBW and RGB lights (12/24V LED/LED stripes), ZigBee certified product https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_S4v4Ab9FKRZGS) and you’re sorted.

Edit: The new Ikea led driver could be an option as well, don’t know much about it though.

u/ProfessorDudee · 2 pointsr/Hue

So am I correct in assuming that instead of the 6ft Phillips Hue strip - I can get these two things and have the equivalent of a 30ft strip that still works with the Hue Bridge?



u/mrwebguy · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

OP Delivers and sorry for the delay. Thanks to /u/maxwellsearcy for reminding me!

  • Dresden electronic ballast (Zigbee)
  • 50/50 4 Conductor Light Strip Connectors
  • Phillips Hue Dimmer Switch
  • Supernight 50/50 24V lights

    Now, cut the plugs off one side of the lights and off the power supply. Match the wires up on the Dresden ballast with RGB+ on the LEDs. Carefully strip away the outer shielding on the power supply cord and then strip the tiny wires on the inside of the power supply wire. Put those into the power screw points on the Dresden. Plug it in and test. It should come on a solid color.

    Now that you have it working, go into your Hue app and scan for new lights. You will see 2 lights pop up for every Dresden ballast you configure. Once it's done scanning, click them in the app and make sure they flash. One of them will NOT flash and you can safely delete that one.

    That's it!
u/Ksevio · 2 pointsr/Hue

It's this thing:

Basically you plug electricity and strip lights into it and it shows up as one or two lights on the hue app.

u/redheadedbandrew · 2 pointsr/Hue

You want the Wireless electronic ballast FLS-PP lp.

And these LED strips look good, though I haven't tried them, and they are a bit more expensive.

Though really any RGB or RGBW led strip should work with that ballast.

u/duckman_1991 · 2 pointsr/smarthome

Sorry for the delayed response, I've been on vacation.

What I ended up doing was purchasing one of these https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ and planned on only using it with smartthing hub, but found the flaky connection a problem and attempted to add it to a phillips hue hub...and it worked!!

Note to reset the ballast you unplug and re-plug the device 5 times.

Overall installation is relatively straight forward.

  1. Just cut and strip wires closest to the connector to the IR side of the led strip (usually closest to the connector between the strip and IR controller).
  2. Then plug corresponding colors into the ballast.
  3. Strip connector for the IR power and plug in respectively
  4. Plug in, open hue app, find new light, if no light found reset ballast

    Second question: No you do not need a hue bulb, but you do need a hue hub
u/Neochromia · 2 pointsr/battlestations

I see you mentioning Hue strips and how much they cost. Although I haven't gotten to try it for myself yet, I hear you can use generic RGB lightstrips along with an FLS-PP to get cheaper lightstrips that are still compatible with the Hue bridge.

u/jacobdeane · 2 pointsr/Hue

It really depends how much effort you want to put in and if you are up for a bit of programming on a raspberry pi...

Short answer is only official hue bulbs are compatible with HomeKit.

However you can run a piece of software called homebridge on a raspberry pi that allows you to link unofficial but hue compatible bulbs to HomeKit. I have such a set up and it works perfectly!

Then you have more options with lights! I have one of these Wireless electronic ballast FLS-PP lp with Power PWM interface for RGBW and RGB lights https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cKwrzbZRGY7BG

Which can drive a lot of led strips...

u/redroguetech · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

It's a tad more expensive than the cheapest. Not neccesarily a bad thing, as the cheapest is often... the cheapest.

Your link is for 2835 LEDs. Have you researched LEDs sizes? Nothing wrong with 2835; just a matter of aesthetics and taste as to what's the "right" size, but there are other sizes available.

With crown molding, probably not possible, but it's best to put them in an aluminum channel.

Also, those cheap ass WIFI controllers and remotes work surprisingly well, but you may want to upgrade to the Hue platform using an FLS-pp. The main advantage for this immediate one-off install would be allowing tying more than one together for a single remote. Using the WiFi things, you're going to get boxed into trying to wire and power them as a single strip (which may work perfectly fine). Of course, you'd need a remote that works with Hue... the Hue Dimmer works well.

u/691175002 · 2 pointsr/Hue

You can build your own very cheaply, total cost is basically $55 for a third party controller, plus ~4$/m for chinese LED strip.


I have two dresden controllers (Running ~200W of lighting) and two lighstrip+ connected to my system and everything works fine.

The only problem is that you will never color match a third party product. The bulbs and strips will always display exactly the same color (Assuming you are within the gamut of the products) but third party can be way off.

u/TheAdster · 2 pointsr/huelights

So I purchased another amplifier and I'm getting the same result. It seems like the amplifier is a major issue with these, so I thought about going at it another way. I was going to cut off the 1A power plug and put on a 3A power adapter that goes into the controller, but as far as I know no one has done this.

There are 2 possible issues: 1) The larger amps will fry the zigbee control board and that's that. 2) The board has some sort of limiter on it that doesn't allow the extra power to pass through to the light strips and the entire project is moot.

However, I have found a 3rd option, which is a little expensive but bypasses the Philips LightStrips completely.

I purchased one of these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/
This is, essentially, a complete replacement for the Hue controller attached to the light strips. It supports up to 10 meters of LED strip (with proper power adapter) and integrates with the Hue system so it shows up in the app just like any other bulb! The best part is you don't need to purchase a Hue LightStrip at all since it doesn't use any of those parts.

u/doc4feet · 2 pointsr/Hue

If you are starting from Scratch I would look at Osram lightify garden strips. https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-LIGHTIFY-Osram-Gardenspots-Adjustable/dp/B00R1PB2ZY/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1496056371&sr=1-5&keywords=osram+lightify
They are meant for outside AND you can remove the spikes and screw them directly onto the deck ( they are designed this way)
Another solution is to get outdoor rated lightstrips and connect them with this

It is a ballast that will connect to HUE ecosystem or actually any zigby controller. I use one of these for lightstrips in my kitchen

u/sloth_on_meth · 2 pointsr/googlehome

boy, have i got something to show you

Using huegasm (chrome extension), meters of generic LED strips and 2 hue bulbs, you can do the above. You do need this

u/powell730 · 2 pointsr/Hue

Wireless electronic ballast FLS-PP lp with Power PWM interface for RGBW and RGB lights (12/24V LED/LED stripes), ZigBee certified product https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pkivyb18HR99K

u/Synssins · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Or you can look at the FLS-PP IP Zigbee ballast with a power supply and any RGBW LED strip (The SuperNight LEDs are 18 bucks for 15 feet)... The ballast is recognized by Hue as a full color light.

u/frygod · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

I had ok luck with this.

u/Smaskifa · 2 pointsr/Hue

The Hue light strip itself seems like a gigantic waste of money to me. You can get an FLS-PP controller and 16.4' of light strip that's better than Hue (more LEDs per foot) for about the same price as one Hue light strip which only comes with 6' of light. I got a couple FLS-PP controllers on sale for $55.

u/TheBlindCat · 2 pointsr/AskMen
u/mike413 · 2 pointsr/lifehacks

Yeah, just I was thinking... plastic pipes?

I would recommend instead:

u/SathedIT · 2 pointsr/lifehacks

There are such things as magnetic stud finders. They are amazing.


u/wharthog3 · 2 pointsr/pics
u/-chrispy- · 2 pointsr/pics

+2 on this... These are great and the HDMI cable is nice... I also recommend the Magnet Stud Finder... I have one of these and love it... It sticks to the drywall screws used to hang drywall to the studs and hasn't failed me yet...


u/scottklarr · 2 pointsr/DIY

I would recommend using a magnetic stud finder. They allow you to find where the drywall screws are. Once you find a screw with it, move it vertically to find at least 2 other screws to verify it's just not a stray screw. This is the one I use regularly.

Then you can mount directly into the stud.

You could also use toggler snaptoggle anchors if the studs don't line up quite where you want the mounts to be. I use these very often for monitor mounting. The drywall is plenty strong enough. These do require a 1/2" hole to be drilled, however. So keep that in mind if you will be having to patch them later.

u/unknown_name · 2 pointsr/interestingasfuck

This is by far the best one I've ever owned. Why, you ask? It's magnetic. None of that beeping crap that doesn't work half the time. This one is what you need.

u/Someguypoiuyt · 2 pointsr/homeowners

Total waste in my book. All you really need is one of these magnetic ones. The fancy stuff didn't work for me but this does every time.

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PT8gzbM75ASRP

u/OverTheCandleStick · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_o0IhybXWA6YEF

If you search Google for"metal stud finder" you'll get a shit ton of results....

u/bartharris · 2 pointsr/DIY

I have been using this one for years, with great success. It stows inside my drill case like a James Bond gadget (From Russia With Love). I have never used an electronic stud finder. The only problem I have had with this one is when I find metal studs, but I have since learned how to deal with them.


u/goodcheapandfast · 2 pointsr/blackfriday

Thanks for the heads up. This is arguably a better product (it has a level built-in) at a cheaper price: https://smile.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/

StudBuddy is USA-made, however. This comes from China.

u/jdsmn21 · 2 pointsr/hometheater

I just put this one up last weekend for my 55". I don't know if you desire articulating though, but IMHO, it folds flat enough that the articulating is just a bonus. Everything was in the kit for hardware. I know you said 60", but if it meets for weight, I'd go ahead.


You might want to stop at the hardware store first and pick up a magnetic stud finder before ordering a mount - they are like $5-10, and handy to have if you ever want to hang anything else (shelf, large picture).

u/ihartponiez · 2 pointsr/DIY

There are actually stud finders made with rare earth magnets: http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI

I've used lots of fancy electric ones in the past. Nothing is more consistent than this cheap thing.

u/zerostyle · 2 pointsr/everymanshouldknow

As little as possible. The more crap you have, the more it weighs you down.
That said, every home needs some necessities to get by. For me those generally involve cooking, sleeping, and repairs. I just finished watching Parks & Rec and am in a bit of a Ron Swanson mood.

For the kitchen (all recommended by America's Test Kitchen):

Victorinox 8" Chef's Knife

Victorinox Paring knife

CDN Instant Read Thermometer

Lodge 12" skillet - cheap and will last you forever

Crockpot, 6qt - the one kitchen appliance I'd cheat with. Easy delicious meals. Toss in a cheap cut of meat (chuck roast, etc), salt, pepper, garlic, onions, carrots, whatever. Let it sit for 6-8 hours. Dinner for 3 meals.


I'd probably just pick up a cheap set of craftsman stuff (screwdrivers, hammer, sockets, pliers). Splurge on the ratchet and any power tools you need:

Bahco 3/8" ratchet - same as snapon F80 at 1/2 the price

Other misc. tools that are quite handy:

Magnetic stud finder - in a new place you're going to be hanging pictures, installing shelving, and mounting curtain rods. These are dirt cheap and super convenient.

Multimeter - Flukes will last you for life. If you need to do any electrical work, these are great. If you don't want to splurge up front just borrow them or buy a cheap $15 one at home depot.


Get comfortable pillows and nice sheets. Don't get all caught up in the 1000 thread count crap, it's a hoax. Just get at least 400tc or so, and preferably egyptian or pima cotton. My favorite sheets are actually a super cheapo brand that are 60% cotton 40% polyester. I prefer them because they feel more "smooth and cool" rather than "soft and warm".

Obviously get real furniture: dresser, bed with headboard, etc.


I won't go into too much detail here, but consider cutting the cord (/r/cordcutters).

A cheap Roku3 + netflix + an OTA antenna can go a long way.

If you have a lot of pictures/media/etc, don't forget about backups. I'd look into an inexpensive NAS, or at least a USB harddrive. They are dirt cheap and worth the insurance.


Lastly, don't forget renters or homeowners insurance. If you are renting, you can get rather good coverage for quite cheap. I just paid around $50 for 12 months of coverage on my apartment ($15k coverage, $1k deductible). I shopped around at 5 different places and Amica came out the cheapest by FAR.

Other than that, you don't need much. Buy less crap. Don't buy some $50 automatic electronic wine opener when a $1 wine key will do the job. Same for a can opener.


I recently bought a magnetic stud finder that runs purely on a pair of magnets rather than battery. I run it in an 'S' shape across my wall and it sticks to certain areas.

Now here's the problem: What do I even do with that information? I want to hang some heavier things up (say, a mirror or something) and as far as I know you're supposed to hammer into the stud but like... if the stud finder is attaching to the metal in the frame then won't me hammering a nail into it endanger the frame? Wouldn't I be clanking right into the metal already in there? What if the thing I'm hanging needs to be attached to more than one stud and they're not close enough?

Should I mark an inch below / above / next to the spot that the stud finder attached to? How am I supposed to know that that's still part of the frame?

Ftr, this is the stud finder: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IKK0OI/

I'm sure this is all supposed to be very obvious... google seems to think so since I can't find any real resources aside from 'stud finders help you find studs'.

Thank you!

u/mr-peabody · 2 pointsr/DIY

I got this thing. Works like a champ.

u/used2bgood · 2 pointsr/random_acts_of_lego

I have over 500 sets, so my storage gets a little pricey, but I used a combination of five things:

  • Akro parts bins for food items, minifig parts, and other small, uncommon pieces.

  • Plano tackle boxes for smaller pieces like 1x3 or 1x2 bricks, that I have in medium quantity, but in all different colors (I sort by color first, then piece type/size)

  • Stack-on boxes because they're large, stackable, dividable, and CHEAP.

    and lastly,

  • Ikea SAMLA bins for bigger bricks (2x8's and such), plates, odd pieces, and wheels. They're clear, stackable, and come with lids.

    Also crucial to my organization is a label maker, and they have good cheap ones at Costco. You could always just print out pictures of the bricks or a box inventory and use packing tape to seal it on, but I like the label maker look.

    My Lego room looks something like this, although nowhere near as many bricks.

    My nephew, who only has about 30 sets, uses small Tupperware type containers to sort the pieces, and keeps them in drawers like this, with a plywood table top bolted through the tops of each cabinet so that he can build and move the table around (although his is four cabinets bolted in a square).

    We also found some cool ideas here, but went with something else that worked better for our house/lifestyle. :)

u/rachelboory · 2 pointsr/beadsprites

I think boards are a safe bet!

What does he usually do with his pieces? Does he hang them, make them into magnets or pins?

Do you know where he gets his beads? A gift card to Joann or Michaels would be an awesome idea, because he could get his own beads with that.

If he doesn't have anywhere to store them right now, maybe a drawer set like this one is a good idea!

u/Im_clean · 2 pointsr/AFOL

I currently use two of these. I use them for all my smaller bricks. Some of each plate, specialty stuff like hinges and decorating pieces. I use shoebox size rubbermades for the rest of the actually blocks, bigger plates, windscreens, plants, etc... They aren't super huge and are stackable on top of each other. I looked at tackle boxes but liked the viewable drawers and the expandability. The drawers are also dividable into two separate areas so 64 drawers becomes 128. Lots of room for a decent size collection.

u/IVIuggle · 2 pointsr/lego

If you've only got two tubs, I'd suggest maybe sorting them by color in these drawers. They're a bit expensive on amazon, you might be able to find them cheaper at your local Walmart. These types are good for organizing into individual parts, but might be a bit overkill for a smaller collection.

u/FurMich · 2 pointsr/lockpicking

I have about the same setup:

I like it. I haven't had any issues with pieces migrating slots (except that time I dropped everything...) but I agree with /u/trevmurf about the foam on the lid, that would fix it, alternatively you could cut your own dividers, but that's a bit of a hassle.

One thing I've thought about (when I have a dedicated workspace) is something like this:

u/beernoulli · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I like these a lot. I have a few on my workbench. My organization system ranges from a drawer with a specific size but that I bought a box of, to a drawer full of randomly sized nails that I pulled out of old junk. If you have a lot of one type if thing, they have versions with larger drawers too.

It's still old man level hoarding, but it's more old man engineer level hoarding.

Akro-Mils 10164 64 Drawer Plastic Parts Storage Hardware and Craft Cabinet

u/Kiosade · 2 pointsr/beadsprites

For organization I originally started with one of those uhh... craft carrying case things. It’s plastic and has a bunch of dividers that make up little boxes inside. But that became a hassle when I got too many colors, so I got a couple of those parts organizers (similar to this —> https://www.amazon.com/Akro-Mils-10164-Plastic-Storage-Hardware/dp/B000LDH3JC/ref=pd_aw_lpo_469_tr_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=D2W2B78175XCFRACJFNZ). It’s WAY better, because you can take out the drawers you need to your table or whatever instead of ALL your colors. Makes grabbing the beads easier too.

As for sorting, I think you have the right idea. Take out the easiest, most distinguished colors first, then end up with the tan/pink/orange colors that are harder to tell apart. Takes a while but there’s really no better way. I suggest pouring say a few handfuls into a big wide soup bowl at a time and sort that, then rinse and repeat.

u/MrMontgomery · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I got a drawer cabinet thingy to keep all my bits and pieces in, it's the UK version of this

u/LThanda · 2 pointsr/beadsprites

And the containers are part of the Arko Mils storage cabinet. I have 2 of the 64 drawer. Each drawer holds about 1000 beads.

That said, if you don't want to spend the money on it, there's a really clever solution with using empty water bottles for each color. Makes it easier to pour out and you don't have to worry about them spilling (just put the cap on it!)

u/rushaz · 2 pointsr/maille

What's funny is, you're going to run out space with that REAL quick.

This is what I got for my larger rings

This is for my smaller rings

These are awesome for seeing things at a glance, and keeping a storage spot for them

u/NovaWildstar · 2 pointsr/Etsy

I have moved into a larger house - we specifically hunted for a house that had studio space because my company was spilling out of the office into the guest room, family room, kitchen etc. 1.5 years later - we are looking to move again - this time with a full walk out daylight basement for my studio.

I recommend using as much vertical space as possible. I have put up shelves and cut up cardboard boxes to create dividers so I can cram them full of envelopes. Clear tubs with snapping lids that stack Labels, etc. My husband has built custom risers for the printers to store paper underneath. Pegboard, 100s of tiny drawers. Anything and everything really.

It's awesome to see your business grow and how much stuff you need just to stay organized.

u/WiredEarp · 2 pointsr/arduino

I was planning on 3d printing a set of small component drawers, but I just saw these and they seem pretty reasonably priced:


I think those look perfect for me. I've also seen other ones with different sets of drawer sizes in the one unit.

u/DefaultGen · 2 pointsr/pinball

I use Harbor Freight's rolling bin rack. I put my tools on top and big parts and stuff on bottom. Small parts in these Akro-Mils bins. You outgrow individual tool boxes quickly.

u/stregabello · 2 pointsr/CrossStitch

I believe it's an organizer generally used for organizing hardware (nuts, bolts, screws, etc). Like this: Hardware Storage

u/Lookatmypinkpony · 2 pointsr/beadsprites
u/kowalski71 · 2 pointsr/arduino

I think the big question when it comes to component organization is portable or not? If portable there are some good (and cheap!) options like card binders and tackle boxes, which other people have suggested.

I'm currently getting my bench set up where I'll be doing most of my electronics and I'm finding it a bit trickier to do without spending a bunch. I'll probably get drawer organizers with as many drawers as possible for components like resistors, caps, and inductors.

I think first-order retrievability is a worthy consideration when it comes to tools, including dev boards. At work I have plastic bins in all kinds of sizes and those work well. They offer good compartmentalization and organization but because they're open and have the shorter front they're easy to look into and access, or move to a bench, etc.

u/BtDB · 2 pointsr/lego

akro mills storage cabinets. theseor these
sort by type, takes longer to sort at first, but so worth it.

u/rabbiabe · 2 pointsr/diypedals

I’m also new to the game and I’ve found tayda to be a much more accessible site than Mouser — I get overwhelmed by the apparently galactic selection and can’t figure out what to get.

Also u/preppyprepface had really important advice— don’t skimp on your stock. I had to go back to tayda almost immediately and order a bunch more stuff because I initially ordered exactly what I needed for a specific PCB and then got really excited about other potential projects, and the shipping takes a while (weirdly, at a certain point if you order enough it comes DHL from Thailand which for some reason is faster than however they ship from Colorado. Who understands these things?). The most important thing to remember is that things will get screwed up — last week I ruined a 3PDT and shorted an LED and it was great to just reach into the bin for another one and keep chugging. Resistors in particular are so cheap that you can’t even buy less than 10 at a time (10 resistors = $0.12 so it makes sense)

You’ll also want a way to keep things organized — I bought this and this and these. In retrospect I wish I had bought two of the first one, but they’re all useful. Some of the bin walls are removable so you can make different size spaces for different kinds of parts. I then used regular sticky labels (Avery 5160) to label the outside so I could see what went where — for the smaller parts like resistors and capacitors I grouped them, so all the x10kΩ resistors went in one bin (in their little ziploc bags), all the x100kΩ in another bin, etc. it still requires some fishing through (vs buying a big table top organizer) but I live in a small house :)

u/DialgoPrima · 2 pointsr/beadsprites

Simple design, doesn't stick out too much- the Akro-Mils 64 compartment organizer. This is what I personally use, and I love the heck out of it. The drawers come out easily so you don't have to worry about reaching up for whatever colors you need, you can just grab the trays and go. For bead count- each drawer holds approx. 1250-1500 beads. If you don't fill it up past there, you should also be able to subvert the spillage through shaking crisis. I should also mention the drawers can stack if needed. They don't seal, but they are held in fairly securely. By "tub of nightmares", I'm assuming you mean the 11,000 tub? I got roughly 30 colors from it, with colors varying in quantity. Black, white, yellow, blue, red, green come in numbers. Some of the other colors, like the light greens, browns, and pastels are rarer. If your wife is serious about the hobby, she will be wanting to get the 1000 pc bags.

u/sakodak · 2 pointsr/arduino

I went from almost zero knowledge (blinking light tutorials, etc) to this in about a month. I'm nowhere near an expert now, but I designed and built something with my own brain and two hands and learned quite a bit in the process.

For me it helps to have something "real" to do. Something I actually need (or want,) then I can just plow through the bullshit and make that thing work. I still really have no clue what I'm doing (as evidenced by this) but now I have a shed with light and sound effects.

As for components, you can get stuff from mouser, jameco or lots of places, but I think the best bang for your buck when you're getting started is to just order assortments of stuff. I got assortments of caps and resistors from amazon and I'm sure similar assortments are available for other components (as I'm typing this I searched for "electronic component assortment" on amazon and there are several kits that have lots of stuff, plus diodes, voltage regulators, some ICs, transistors, LEDs, knobs, buttons, etc.)

The way I see it is if you're looking at a parts list for a beginner project they're probably going to use common components. A tiny leap of logic leads to the assumption that you're going to need those parts in the future. If the project calls for a 2n3906 transistor you can either buy one for $5.00 or 50 for $7.

Another piece of advice if you go this route: buy some of these. (May want to think about one of these too.)

u/TheSass · 2 pointsr/CrossStitch
u/batibbetts · 2 pointsr/beadsprites

I got most of them (Black) from Amazon, One (Blue) I have had for almost 20yrs.

u/taako_taaco · 2 pointsr/beadsprites


I used this and it's working great! Each drawer holds a little over 1000 beads, and it's not too large that it takes up too much room. Plus, you can see the colors through the drawers.

u/Superpickle18 · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

I use this. works ok i guess.

u/DJ_BaLaLaWa · 2 pointsr/skyrim

This is what I used.

u/triffid_hunter · 2 pointsr/arduino
u/skywise_ca · 2 pointsr/teslamotors

If you're pondering this because of the other post today and your outlet is 120V then this is what can test it.


If it's a dryer outlet, it's probably fine if it has been doing it's normal job up to now.

u/dstutz · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Waterlox should be great for the bathroom. If you have one of those outlet testers you could double check but if the electrician did it, it's probably fine.

u/Tude · 2 pointsr/fixit

This does a great job at detecting wiring faults and is cheap: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUL2UU/

u/TheLostBryan · 2 pointsr/personalfinance

I use a gfci outlet tester. They are pretty cheap, and check that the wiring is as it should be (hot, neutral and ground in the right place). There is a button on it that will trip a gfci breaker to make sure it works as it should.


u/machu505 · 2 pointsr/hvacadvice

Perhaps a grounding/loose neutral issue. Or even a reversed hot/neutral. Use a circuit tester to test the outlet for faults if possible.

u/Sillywillychille · 2 pointsr/electricians

I wouldn't assume that three prong outlet is properly wired, Someone could have just thrown it in there even if there isn't a ground wire ran to the box. You could buy a plug tester like this and it will tell you if it's wired correctly. It is possible someone could have wired the outlet to trick a tester into thinking there was a ground by jumping from the neutral to the ground.

Ultimately i would recommend having an electrician inspect the wiring in your house. Your houses original wiring is old and may not have a means to ground available at every outlet. I would find someone you can trust to take a look at everything, You don't know how many people, qualified or not, have worked in your home.

u/SCphotog · 2 pointsr/computers

Make sure your computer is properly grounded. Make sure the outlet you're plugged into is wired correctly.

Ground tester... can be found at any hardware store, home depot etc... for just a few bucks.

Most uninterruptible power supply units these days have ground fault detection built in... and you should be using one regardless.


That aside, something shorted out. You have an exposed wire or something somewhere or the GPU is touching something that it shouldn't be.

u/Dippyskoodlez · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

The casing is for shielding, as at the end of the cable the pairs are untwisted and no longer individually shielded going into the RJ45 connector. It could potentially connect the ground from one device to another if it's wired into the shielding across the cable. It shouldn't be the cause of this issue though.

If you're feeling a shock it's because you have a grounding issue between your PC and the wall(or the outlet itself) and should get that checked out.

Perhaps check out something like this(If you're on 120v), it's possible your house/building wiring is FUBAR. I had a nice shock when I was connecting my parents fridge water hose to the fridge.


u/SupaZT · 2 pointsr/teslamotors

Time to invest into a multimeter or Outlet Tester

u/Vlad_the_Homeowner · 2 pointsr/homeowners

This is far cheaper than a single unnecessary GFCI receptacle:


Every home owner should have one. Put it in, push button, it'll let you know if it's protected. As I posted above, receptacle needs to be GFCI protected, but there are more ways than one to do that. Not every outlet needs those two little buttons on it.



u/umos199 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I would still test your home wiring. you can order things like this or find them at just about any store with an electrical section.

u/ichabod13 · 2 pointsr/videos

If the dishwasher is plugged into a outlet you can access, you can buy a cheap outlet tester like this one on Amazon
and see if your wiring is good. Sorry if this was already suggested somewhere. :P You can find the plug testers at any hardware store too.

u/Bill_Money · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Get somethign like this http://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Outlet-Tester/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452385389&sr=8-1&keywords=outlet+tester make sure the outlet is wired correctly.

If it is then get a really good spurge suppressor possibly one with filtering

u/Art_in_MT · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I suggest proceeding VERY methodically. Two things I've found over the years:

  1. the GFI device is not always the first outlet on the circuit. Your power could be coming from another box "upstream", and

  2. for reasons only known to themselves, sometimes non-electricians will swap black-for-white. Thus, your next box might have been wired wrong (white is hot / screwed to brass), and "fixed" here because it was easier to get to. (Didn't want to move that 65 gallon aquarium.)

    I find one of these testers to be real handy when working on unknown wiring, and for checking my own after completion. LINK
u/locool676 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Here is a quick how to: http://www.acmehowto.com/electrical/grounding.php

You can also get the all in one type and plug it into all your outlets to test: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RUL2UU

u/Joywalking · 2 pointsr/AskReddit

Something practical depends very much on what sort of things he does. Really good shaving cream is not practical if he doesn't shave, for example. A multitool is wonderful, but may not be useful if he wouldn't carry it.

Care to tell us a bit more about him?

u/sauceLegs · 2 pointsr/EDC

I think you can't go wrong with a Leatherman Skeletool or SAK Camper if you just want a simple, solid, low profile multitool


SAK Camper


u/PancakeEater101 · 2 pointsr/EDC

Thats the normal price, they have been around there almost since they came out. $41 on Amazon and Here is the price history

u/ProfessorLX · 2 pointsr/EDC
u/teh_i · 2 pointsr/japanlife

I carry my Leatherman Skeletool in my bag at all times, unless I am going to an airport or such.

Japanese laws say that the max size you can have for a pocket knife is 6cm

Note, that won't stop the police from getting angry if you have a knife and are in some kind of trouble already. If they can imply intent you would still be in trouble. I could carry the multitool in my belt, or in my pocket - yet I always have it in my bag in a small pocket unless I am out hiking/camping.

u/Roeh · 2 pointsr/santashelpers

($39.91 at the time this was posted)

I already have one, and I'd still love to get one of these!

If any of these four guys do anything with their hands, this -will- come in handy. I carry the Skeletool CX model every day.

Leatherman also offers a 25 year warranty on all of their products.

I hope this helps!

u/beley · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

I have at least three "knives" in my truck. In the middle console I keep a Leatherman Skeletool and an EOD Breacher Bar. The breacher bar would be great for breaking a window, using as a pry bar, make shift shovel, I've even used it to mix concrete for a post hole when I couldn't find anything else.

In my GHB in the "trunk" (Honda Ridgeline), I also have a Gerber Bear Grylls fixed blade I got on clearance at Wally World.

I almost always also have a knife on me as well, usually a locking folder but sometimes a swiss army.

u/crick2000 · 2 pointsr/EDC

Skeletool has multiple variants. I am talking about this one


There is a 80+ bucks CX model as well.

u/toxiclimeade · 2 pointsr/knives

If he had been carrying a Swiss Army knife that's probably the style he prefers, Opinel makes single bladed knives that open in the same way his old SAK did, and leatherman makes amazing multitools, I would recommend checking all these brands out.

Opinel knives are usually extremely cheap and run about 20$/£, their most popular knife is the No. 8 for about 12$/£, it comes in other colors and wood types as well. No. 8 is a bigger model and it might be a little bulky for someone use to a SAK, the small the number in the name ex. No. 7, No.6, get smaller as their number designation does. I have the No. 8 Trekking knife in slate and its a pretty great knife for its price (18$/£).

If he likes Swill Army Knives, there are quite a few more options to look at, they can get a little pricey for their size at times, I own the Tinker, this was my first knife and I have found that looking at the tools on these knives would behoove you. I do not need an awl in the knife I carry every day for instance. There are many many options to chose from, and through a little sifting you may find one that you feel suits him best. Victorinox (the brand that makes swiss army knives) also makes knives that are a little closer to the opinels I mentioned earlier, a few of their models (like this one) are simply one or two blades. I would look into local laws however, I know some places do not allow blades that can be opened with one hand like the one I linked you to.

Leatherman makes wonderful multitools and a few pocket knives. Nearly everything they make have blades that lock as a safety feature, although very few can be flicked open, so I would check the specifics of this law, I doubt a multi-tool is illegal. This is the Micra, it appears to be a smaller version of a leatherman I own that I cannot find on their site. This one has a blade that opens in a way that is legal for sure, its blade does not lock either. If you find that some locking blades are allowed, the Skeletool is a favorite of mine, it may look a little outlandish but it has always had the best combination of essential tools out of any of my multi-tools, and it is one of my favorites. The Style is a smaller version with slightly different tools ( I don't think it has screwdrivers), but it's blade does not lock. The skeletool is about 70$/£ I think, and their smaller tools like the micra and style are under 30$/£, this brand has quite a bit more I didn't touch on, if you think he would like something like this I would check out site, I hope you find something that works, I know I'm always thrilled when my girlfriend gets me a new knife.

u/TheophilusOmega · 2 pointsr/CampingGear

I"m assuming that you will be going soon, say the next month or so, time of year counts, but I'll assume it's soon.

Your tent is a little "meh." it'll work but it might not last so long; especially take core of the poles, they beak easily. Also the cheapo tent stakes that come with the tent are going to bend and you will curse them every time you set up your tent. Pick up some like these and they will serve you well. (Personally I hate using tents; they are hassles to set up and take down, and generally not pleasant to sleep in. If you can help it try sleeping under the stars and see if that suits you.)

You might find your sleeping bag to be a bit chilly, I'd recommend a 20 degree bag with a hood. I know it won't get that cold but the degree ratings are quite exaggerated so 20 degrees is really more suitable for 50 degrees. If you don't want to spend more money on a bag, make sure you have warm clothes and a good fitting beanie.

Air mattresses are fine, just take care to feel out for thorns or anything that might puncture it. Also you might want a blanket or something in between you and the mattress because it will suck out the heat from underneath you if you don't have some insulation.

You should have a tarp or footprint to put your tent on to protect it and the air mattress from punctures, it's worth it. The tarp you have should be fine (maybe doubled over if its thin), but a footprint will be more convenient.

For $15 that stove is a great deal, buy it if it still works fine. It runs off of white gas AKA "camp fuel", which you can find at many grocery stores, gas stations, any place with a sporting goods section, and many stores near popular camping areas. Finding white gas is not really an issue.

Don't buy matches, just get 2 or 3 Bic lighters. Really you should learn to make a fire using only your lighter, make that your goal each night. In a pinch my favorite fire starter is one you can make at home before your trip. Get an old egg carton and stuff each cup with cotton balls or dryer lint. then pour melted candle wax into each cup until about 90% full. Let the carton harden then pack it away. To use it rip off one cup and light the cardboard edge, you will have a strong flame for about 15 minutes.

Don't buy a filter. Water will be easy to come by at most campsites, but not all of them have a tap so make sure to bring along a few extra gallons just in case.

Lanterns produce almost no usable light, save your money and stick with the headlamp. Also that headlamp is excellent I highly recommend it. Protip: leave it around your neck like a necklace when you sleep then it's easy to find in the middle of the night.

I have a lot of experience with wilderness medicine and those pre-made kits are mostly worthless, you are much better off making your own kit.

I Recommend:

  • 2-3 Rolls Athletic Tape - This works for making bandages and splints, covering blisters, cuts, burns, ect.
  • Small Bottle of Ibuprofen (Advil) - Pain reliever, and muscle relaxant that aids in the recovery and prevention of injuries
  • 1-2 Ace bandages - Makes bandages, splints, and slings
  • Duct Tape - General purpose item
  • Roll Gauze - For major injuries with significant bleeding
  • Individually Wrapped Antihistamine (Benadryl) Tablets - Optional if you don't have allergies
  • Bic Lighter - Sterilizes metal instruments
  • Mini Swiss Army Knife - Excellent scissors and tweezers for minor injuries, sterilize with a flame before each use
  • Sunscreen - Don't want to get burned
  • Triple Antibiotic (Neosporin) - Ward off infection of open wounds, do not apply directly to the cut but rather around like a defensive wall
  • Alcohol Prep Pads - Cleans and sterilizes open wounds before dressing
  • Add Any Prescription Meds / Regularly Taken Medicines - Inhaler, insulin, Epi-Pen, ect.
  • Add Anything That Makes You Feel Better Knowing You Have It - eg snake bite kits, aspirin, SAM splint, burn gel

    Chair looks comfy, get one you like with at least 1 cupholder

    A good knife makes a great survival tool and is just generally a useful item, check here every few days for a good deal on high quality knives. Multi tools are great to have around camp but an inexpensive set of tools would be much better for your situation. If you want a true multi-tool this one is good quality and a fair price.

u/acidburnz_EU · 2 pointsr/AskMen


This is one is considered pretty good.
You didn't specify price range but these tools are usually used for all kinds of things. They are sturdy and will yield decades of usage.
If you look for something cheaper, try the Swiss army knifes. Also good enough but quality does have a price.

u/flyinglotus1983 · 2 pointsr/EDC

> Multi-tool always seem too heavy for what they offer

  • Leatherman Style PS @ 44 grams
  • Leatherman Style CS @ 44 grams
  • Leatherman Skeletool @ 141 grams (5 ounces)
  • Leatherman Skeletool CX @ 141 grams (5 ounces).

    That's not heavy if you ask me. I think the Style is perfect for every-day on-person EDC, and the Skeletool for either on-person or in an EDC bag. The Skeletool is missing some features compared to a full-up Charge TTi (8 ounces) or similar, but for an EDC, it's better than not carrrying a multitool at all.
u/yonil9 · 2 pointsr/EDC

Casio Men's WV58A-1AV
: http://amzn.com/B001A5LKAS
(cheap watch that auto sets because I'm lazy)

Samsung Galaxy S4
(beaten up and abused but still works)

LEATHERMAN Skeltool Multi-Tool
by Leatherman: http://amzn.com/B000XU9NXW
(out of school carry just got it today)

Columbia Men's Extra Capacity Slimfold Wallet
: http://amzn.com/B004AS3TJM
(small easily accessible)

Edit: added descriptions

u/lepfrog · 2 pointsr/Tools

a little bit of both. you can often see when a brick and mortar store lowers their prices on some items on their website amazon will drop their price to match. for example when homedepot has blackfriday sales on the leatherman skeletool for $29 then the amazon price the past 2 years magically became $29 (as shown by camelcamelcamel it was $29.88 in December.) I am sure both companies heavily monitor each other's pricing.

u/JustASleepyLemur · 2 pointsr/EDC

If you're willing to spend $5 more, the Ontario Rat 1 in AUS-8 steel is an incredible value. It's a really impressive little folder for the price.

u/CommanderCooper · 2 pointsr/EDC

Try doing some more research before criticizing the choices of others. Gerber makes some good knives and some shit knives. BG falls under the category of shit knives.

A good example of a much higher quality knife with a much more reasonable price is the Ontario RAT 1. Better steel, better build quality, better price, better knife.

u/ElectricLamp · 2 pointsr/knives

They're both in 8cr13mov and people really underestimate them for it. It's actually a very easily maintained steel but watch out for the Clash and its bead blasted finish; it'll rust on you easily. The Freefall is stonewashed so you won't have that problem.

Honestly I'd probably prefer a [kershaw chill](http://www.amazon.ca/Kershaw-3410-Chill-Pocket-Knife/dp/B002IVHQ5Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398139713&sr=8-1&keywords=kershaw+chill] in that range for its blade geometry. It's mostly flat ground and it will make for noticeably better slicing capability. (even though it is also bead blasted)

Otherwise it'd be good to pony up ten more bucks and get a Rat II

u/OoogaOoogaYoink · 2 pointsr/knives

I'll give you some options here instead of just one choice.

This CRKT is a wonderful tool.

If you'd like another Spyderco you can't go wrong with a Dragonfly or a Centofante III.

If you've never got a Kershaw they're killer knives for the price. The Leek is a great introduction.

Or, you could buy 2 knives with your fifty. Ontario's RAT I and RAT II are some sweet knives.

Depending on your taste. You simply cannot go wrong with any of these knives.

u/hahahahathisguy · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

> Ontario RAT1

to be clear, this knife? http://www.amazon.com/Ontario-8848-Folding-Knife-Black/dp/B0013ASG3E i kind of wanted a flipper with the little edge that you push down with your index finger. i've liked using those. does this RAT open by flicking your wrist?

u/optional_downvote · 2 pointsr/knives

If you like kershaw you can get a blur with S30v steel for around 65$ on amazon if you still want a kershaw. I've never been too impresed with them since I find their build quality to be lacking. They seem to have an excessive amount of blade play and use average quality steels in most of their knives. The a premium steel that can hold a razor sharp working edge. The spyderco delica/endura line is also a great knife. They have full flat ground blades that come razor sharp from the factory with absolutlely no blade play. I personally carry a green delica as one of my edc knives. The dragonfly is also great if you want a knife that dissapears on your person. it is a featherweight knife, that cuts and handles like a much larger knife.

If you are looking for a knife that can take an absolutely harsh beating, I would have to reccomend an Ontario RAT 1 or 2 depending on you size preference. They are a bit heavy in hand compared to other knives it size, but perform just as good as any of my spydercos. It is also on the cheaper side at around 25$.

The benchmades are also a good choice, but I would also reccomend the benchmade mini-presidio.

Anyways, I thought I might as well just post some links to them:

S30v Kershaw Blur

Benchmade Mini Presidio

[Benchmade Griptillian] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q9BOF0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2Q6YQ3PL1NNYW&coliid=I1IO3PSF8569TW)

Benchmade Mini Griptillian (I prefer thumb hole openers, but both griptillians also are offered with combo edges and thumb studs.)

Spyderco Dragonfly

Spyderco Delica

Spyderco Endura

Ontario RAT 1

Ontario RAT 2

u/Rocket_Puppy · 2 pointsr/EDC

What do you use the Skeletool most for?

If you use the knife on it constantly and daily, then yeah, get a good knife. If the stuff that you do cut makes you nervous with the Skeletool then definitely get a dedicated knife.

If you use the bit driver or pliers on the Skeletool the most then you probably don't need to carry a dedicated knife.

Give the Sage 5 a good look as well if you are considering the Para3. I'd also strongly recommend finding a Spyderco/Benchmade/Zero Tolerance dealer and fondling a bunch of knives before making a decision on which knife to buy.

If you have never carried a dedicated knife before it would be a good idea to buy a cheaper knife or two before spending $100+ on a knife.

Could try something like the Spyderco Byrd Cara Cara 2:

The Ontario Rat I/II


Kershaw Cryo

CRKT Squid

Try some under $30 knives, pick one that looks like something you would like to carry, and pick something that is dang near the polar opposite. It will let you know what you like in a knife much cheaper. Differences in blade size, blade shape, handle shape and how they are used might change your opinion on what you think you need in a knife after using a dedicated knife for awhile. After that you can make a truly informed decision on a high-end knife.

u/DOODLINGwithWORDS · 2 pointsr/fountainpens

i just bought a few ~25 dollar knives and ended up liking the ontario rat 2 the best.

comes highly recommended in /r/knifeclub

u/Burkules · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Ontario RAT 1 - great knife with great reviews: full 5 stars on 149 reviews.

I just bought one myself and am very impressed with it. Rock solid with great blade steel (AUS 8) with a Rockwell C hardness around 56.

u/wittlepup · 2 pointsr/knives

Victornox makes pretty dang good knives at a great price. I would also recommend the RAT 1 as a great, incredibly solid knife. It is, however, a rather heavy duty knife, so if you are looking for something a little lighter I'd recommend browsing THIS budget knife list for one you like best.

u/runamoc · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

I am a Kershaw fan for sure. However, for that price point, I can make no higher recommendation than the Ontario Rat 1
It has a larger blade of similar if not better quality and is a beast of a deal.

u/zootphen · 2 pointsr/knives

This is a popular "gets the job done" knife.
Very sturdy lil dude.

u/CorrectionCompulsion · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

You should pick up a few high value knives for the money. Here are a few that are worth way more than their price tag:

Mora Companion - this blade is incredibly useful for camp tasks and bushcraft projects, very strong even though it's not full tang (I've never heard of one breaking).

Ontario RAT Model 1 - This is one of the best folders I've used, at any price. For $26 you won't find a better knife.

Utilitac 2 - This knife comes in a ton of different styles, made by Ontario like the RAT, and of equally high quality. These knives are built like tanks, and can take abuse.

Schrade SCHF9 - Unlike the Mora, this knife is a huge chunk of steel. I doubt you could break it with a hammer to be honest, so if you're tastes run towards the bigger camp knife, this is it.

u/profstophouse · 2 pointsr/Fishing

bump. this guy knows his knives. i kept loosing my knives at airports, so went with a cheaper, but SUPER quality knife, ontario rat:

u/electricburrito_ · 2 pointsr/LetsNotMeet

Wow! This is infuriating. I am already paranoid and I haven't even had a bad apartment experience yet (fingers crossed!).

There are these locks on Amazon that are an addition to the regular locks, something like this:


My landlords also use something like this on the backdoor:


Stay safe everyone!

u/iwanttheblanketback · 2 pointsr/Glitch_in_the_Matrix

If you need a way to secure your doors.

u/Captain_Shoe · 2 pointsr/AmItheAsshole

NTA. Also, get a portable travel door lock. No swapping door handles required, and not too pricey.

u/SinfulPanda · 2 pointsr/legaladvice

I haven't purchased one yet as I have something else, but I learned about this in this sub and plan to purchase one.

u/CapitalGGeek · 2 pointsr/DIY

Nevermind, you can get locks that work for both swing directions.

Swinging in is easy and can be done with a broken fork - https://lifehacker.com/use-a-broken-metal-fork-as-a-quick-door-lock-1629334758

Or you can purchase a similar device - https://www.amazon.com/Addalock-Portable-Travel-AirBNB-Lockdown/dp/B00186URTY/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=door+lock+bar&qid=1571501794&sr=8-15

If the door swings away, then you need something like this - https://www.amazon.com/DOOR-MONKEY-Door-Pinch-Guard/dp/B004ECJWK4/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=removable+door+lock+bar&qid=1571501864&sr=8-7

You can search 'temporary door locks' for options

u/Nicolettecapp · 2 pointsr/Advice

Here is the one I bought. It had a travel case so you can bring it with you when you stay at an airbnb or something like that . It works so good. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00186URTY?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

u/isthisallforme · 2 pointsr/TwoXChromosomes

You could get an add a lock. It may work on both sides of the door and doesn't require installation. Http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00186URTY?pc_redir=1405302644&robot_redir=1

u/Virisenox_ · 2 pointsr/EDC

Kershaw and Spyderco are good relatively cheap brands. If it's for EDC, the Kershaw Skyline might be a good fit.

u/TOUCHER_OF_SHEEP · 2 pointsr/EDC

Do you have a torx set of screwdrivers? If you do, you can take apart the knife and remove the torsion bar really easily- I did it with a Kershaw I carried for a while. If you don't like that idea, you can always get the insanely popular Kershaw Skyline.

u/7thton · 2 pointsr/knives

For day to day stuff, I think a folding knife is more than enough. Multitools are heavy and I wouldn't want to have to lug it around all day on my belt or in my pocket.

As far as recommendations go, you can buy a very nice folding knife for under 50. A lot of people here are going to recommend Spyderco knives, but keep in mind that they are much bigger than other folders in terms of height. (To be more clear, they are not heavier than other knives or necessarily have a longer or thicker blade or handle, but the blades are very wide and that translates to it taking much more room in your pocket.)

I would reccomend a Buck Nobleman. It is nothing fancy, but it has a nice wide blade, comes sharp, has a sturdy liner lock, and a good clip. You can remove the clip is you want. In my opinion, it is the best knife you can buy for 20 bucks.

I can also recommend the Kershaw Leek (this is an assisted opening knife, so research whether or not that is something you'd like) and the Kershaw Skyline.

If you want to spend a little more on a knife that will likely last you forever, from a company that has great customer service, I can recommend a Benchmade Mini-Griptilian.

u/Sengura · 2 pointsr/knives

Twitch II is good.

So is the Skyline

But my favorite is still the Tenacious. What an awesome EDC knife that sucker is. The metal may not be the best, but it makes up for it in durability and it's so easy to sharpen. The knife is of excellent quality and for less than 30$. If you want a smaller blade, get the Persistence (I wouldn't, the Tenacious is the perfect size for me).

u/mavriksin · 2 pointsr/knives

I love my Kershaw Skyline. It opens incredibly quickly once you get used to the flipper, holds a good edge, and I have never once lost my grip on the handle. I would recommend this blade to anyone.

u/haidret · 2 pointsr/EDC

From left, clockwise: Moleskine notebook, glasses, 8 gig iTouch, BIC pen, keys with Swiss Tech multi tool minus the light, Timex expedition, Samsung piece-of-crap phone, Kershaw Skyline, picture sleeve from my wallet converted to cash and card holder.

u/mrtiro · 2 pointsr/EDC

Have you looked at the [Kershaw Skyline] ( http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Skyline-Knife-Textured-Handle/dp/B001CZBDF8)? It seems fit all of you criteria at $35.

u/NickLynch · 2 pointsr/guns

I had a Leek, but lost it. I replaced it with a Camilus Blaze, and was happy, but it was a bit fat. When I lost that one, I picked up a Kershaw Skyline (In December). It's now my favorite knife so far. It's not assisted, but it's very smooth. It's every bit as quick as my Leek and Blaze were. It has G10 handles, which I love, it's still sharp, despite my box cutting abuse for the last few months, and it's super light weight.

u/bly2425 · 2 pointsr/malefashionadvice

What kind of tasks do you perform with your knife mostly? Budget? If you can be more specific I can give more tailored recommendations, but for now the failsafe answer would be the Chris Reeve Sebenza, but it might be out of your budget range. For an entry level pocket knife that's understated and high quality, the Kershaw Skyline is your best bet.

u/blueriderbacks · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

Just to add a few more that fall well under budget and are still awesome.

u/ltlgrmln · 2 pointsr/electronics

A combination of this and this.

I love the Stanley boxes, because if you've got multiple you can mix the trays around in addition to being able to take them out to keep it organized on the table top. The smallest removable boxes in those fit resistors with the reel tape on them still, so I consider them perfect size. The container store ones are just deep enough to fit a concrete power resistor. You could also mount a ton of them on the wall if you've got the room or a bigger workspace.

u/msolace · 2 pointsr/ModernMagic

there is a larger version too its only 2 more dollars i think Also, wine opener boxes the nice ones, you can find at resale shops without the opener sometimes. And I use a towel for my playmat can wipe up spills, keep your cards unscuffed its great :) Don't be a yes man, be unique, the tacklebox guy at your shop! For the individual decks, I use the magic inserts and the prerelease boxes, you can give them some spirit, like arts and crafts.

u/Splice1138 · 2 pointsr/LegoStorage

Seems like it would work OK for storage, but in actual use it would take up a lot of space, especially if you have a decent number of bricks that necessitate multiple cases.

If you want something more portable than the typical drawers, you might be better off with something like this.

u/Xwingin_it · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG


Stanley 25-removable compartment organizer. For the price of 1x foam Feldherr bag, I can buy 5 or 6 of these (they go on sale from time to time for $10-$11) and store damn near my entire fleet to include tokens, base, pegs, etc. Big ships and Epic ships may need a deeper Stanley case, the price of which is still comparable with the 25-compartment.

I found foam to be largely unnecessary, unless you plan on throwing your collection down a flight of stairs. I've moved a couple of times and my ships survived undamaged using the Stanley cases.

u/petecas · 2 pointsr/lego

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-25-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B00005QWYF/ and http://www.amazon.com/Akro-Mils-20-Inch-16-Inch-Hardware-Cabinet/dp/B003P2UOCO/are amazing. Drawers/bins that are removable and rearrangeable make it easier to sort out what you want for the current MOC.

When/if you fill up a bin, you can either subdivide further or move some of the Lego to deep storage.

I'm pretty dead set against sorting by color, it's WAY easier to find a red 1x2 in a bin of 1x2s than it is to find it in a bin of red.

u/VoteTedJameson · 2 pointsr/SWlegion

There are some purpose-made storage trays like this: https://www.amazon.com/HS110LG04-Foam-Tray-Legion-Airspeeder/dp/B07FFVV3DS/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1549559221&sr=1-1&keywords=Star+Wars+Legion+foam , but they're expensive.
I put my AT-ST in a $1 storage bin from target with some foam cut from an acoustic panel in the bottom to cushion it, and it works fine. I use a tool box for my X-wing and Armada minis and I'm thinking I'll get one for my Legion troopers as well. https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-25-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B00005QWYF/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1549559346&sr=8-22&keywords=Tool+box+Stanley You can get them at Home Depot or Lowe's for cheap, they're tough and they're always available.

u/Route66_LANparty · 2 pointsr/StarWarsArmada

Play the basic starter game from the box a few times... If you and your friends dig it, then consider some accessories and extra ships. (Sticking to the accessories here, I'll let others give tips on the ships, since now just buy 2 of everything).

  • Extra Dice. 1-2 sets of extra dice. - FFG has a bad habit of not providing enough dice. One extra set gives you enough dice to roll for almost any attack. 2 sets of extra dice allow you to keep separate dice pools for each player to move things along quickly. $5-$10 per set.

  • Playmat. You could get 2x of the official FFG 3' x 3' mats. Or a large 3rd party 6' x 3' mat. Alternatively, people get a large piece of black felt for very cheap. Or even a large Yoga Mat.

  • Card Sleeves for protection with frequent play. - Mayday's Armada Kit or Official FFG (See the bottom of the Armada box to know which ones to buy)

  • Storage - I use a couple of these 25 and 10 bin storage compartments, along with binders for the cards. http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-25-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B00005QWYF/
u/Lokotor · 2 pointsr/Pathfinder_RPG

The Stanley 25 compartment small parts organizer fits the Bestiary boxes almost perfectly so I recommend those. The Amazon
version may also work as it looks like it is identical but I haven't tried it.

u/cupster3006 · 2 pointsr/boardgames

I use the same Stanley organizer for my carboard cutouts. It's the best one https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-25-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B00005QWYF

u/sir_moleo · 2 pointsr/DarkSoulsTheBoardGame

I use these for all the cards and other bits. The containers are also removable so you can use them as trays while playing. The large and medium size trays fit the sleeved cards perfectly. And the small ones are perfect for tokens/counters/etc.

Stanley 014725 25-Removable Compartment Professional Organizer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005QWYF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KKrYBb7RHTWQB

The minis pose more of a problem though, and as I won't be travelling with them, my solution is a big curio to keep them all displayed in.

u/crimsonedge7 · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG

I use the Stanley 014710H and 014725M boxes, depending on the size of the ship. It's a bit pricier than the individual Plano boxes you can find, but it's sturdy and I haven't found a ship that doesn't fit in one of the two sizes. The compartments are removable and you can mix-and-match them, so they're pretty versatile. They stack nicely, as well.


Some example pics here. Dials and base tokens are stored with the ships unless they don't fit in the same compartment. When that happens they are still in the same box, just a "general" compartment. I even stored the cards in them until all my 2.0 conversions meant I had way too many cards to easily find that way and I switched to binders.


EDIT: For some extra clarification, I have one of each 1.0 ship (plus a second IG-2000 and the Aces packs, etc.) plus Lando's Falcon and a 2.0 core. All of that converted over to 2.0 with the kits fits in 5 of the thinner 25-compartment cases and 2 of the larger 10-compartment ones. Obviously the amount you need will depend on how many ships you have and whether you feel the need to separate them by faction like I do, but it's not a bad storage solution, if I say so myself.

u/Super206 · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG

I keep the models in a cardboard box with pluck-foam inserts, but for everything else I use one of these that was recommended by other folks for X-Wing, here it is in use. The compartment boxes have little feet that slot into divots on the case's base so with the lid closed they're effectively locked in position. There are other types with different compartments and depths as well, you can find them just as easily at any hardware store.

Now all I have to worry about is the pile of baggies that make it look like I'm cutting drugs to make rent.

u/ChipChester · 2 pointsr/livesound

Stanley has a few different versions of these totes:

that are 16.5"+/- wide, 13+ deep. Two available depths. The cups inside stay put if one of their neighbors is missing, and stuff doesn't spill out (surface-mount resistors are a possible exception.)

I think they would fit snugly in a thin-foam-lined rack drawer like this one: https://hermanproav.com/product/4017/Middle-Atlantic-Two-Space-Rack-Drawer

Deeper drawers likely available too.
Putting rackmount slides directly on the case itself might be fruitful, too.

Pillboxes like this: https://www.4imprint.com/sampleitem/105658?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlr2er9Lj3QIVVLjACh114QapEAQYASABEgLAGvD_BwE&mkid=1pla-s105658&ef_id=W7E8YgAAAIb4vfzA:20180930211306:s could handle the really tiny stuff, like those surface mount components and MacBook Pro bottom panel screws. Can't beat that vendor's price for a single unit, too...

Look also at fishing tackle boxes, model railroad parts organizers, etc.

(No association with any of the links...)

u/alexisew · 2 pointsr/lego

In case you ever expand your collection and need more boxes: the Stanley small-parts organizers are just about the best thing ever for storing Lego-- they have removable compartments, so you can pull out a bin, look through it, dump it out, whatever. There's a shallow version with small to medium size compartments and a deep version with big compartments, all of them stack together (nice for storage), and the compartments are isolated enough to keep everything separated if the box gets flipped upside down while closed even with the smallest of pieces.

u/keltorak · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG

I use the Stanley organizers for my collection.

The big bases stack easily in the big bins, I'm just getting to the point where I can't fit them all in in 2 bins.

The small bases fit vertically in the small or medium bins. I made separators with the ship name as a label (color-coded for faction) to keep them separate. It's not perfect when you're looking for a specific pilot, but it works nicely.

The dials I haven't found a good solution yet. Now that I'm fully whored up on those deceivingly fun to paint dial covers, I popped out all the dials and I just stack them in the big bins. They're too big to stand up, so it's a real pain. I need to figure something else out.

If only my son and I weren't such fans of always trying new things, the 18 dial covers we now have would mean we could just put the rest of the dials in long term storage with no care as to how hard it is to find what you want!

u/saerax · 2 pointsr/legodnd

I haven't used full set pieces yet, just a few minor accents. I settled on LEGO figures when I started DM'ing as I had a pretty good existing collection, and supplemented it with some ebay purchases - I actually ended up buying a few sets of knock-off LEGO minifigs from China, which ended up being about $8-$10 per set of 8; quite a bit cheaper than molded figures or authentic LEGO. It let me fill in a lot of gaps pretty quickly on being able to represent various creatures/NPCs. I use some compartment organizers to hold everything, works pretty well.

For your games, it looks like you build most of the world with LEGO - do you play exclusively on fixed sets? How do you handle movement?

u/Nerdfacehead · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG

I bought this case from Amazon and I'm going to get some foam like you have to line in. Fairly cheap and really good for carrying stuff.

Stanley 014725 25-Removable Compartment Professional Organizer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005QWYF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_4XtIwbQM5SVPX

u/chronsbons · 2 pointsr/Tools

TASTAK's seem like they could be fine, especially since your drill/driver only has a soft case to go with it. Tastak may well be a better solution than that.

As far as other tools though, the TASTAK's seem optimized to hold a large power tool well in the lower compartment and then fasteners and hardware in the top sorting bins. This part is what i would call less than ideal. Plenty of people like these stanley cases for organization of small parts. but having that integrated into the top of the box... i am not sure how i would want to use that.

If i had to pick from the TASTAK line the two storage things that look the most appealing to me are the Deep Box and the Drawers

the bottom like is that anything you pick up is going to need some custom organization solutions. I just got the 13" Milwaukee box and am looking at building some custom organizers today out of 1/2" acrylic and wood for the prototype and later 3D printed ABS. i don't think there is a perfect solution for everyone because everyone has different tools in their box.

u/SkywalterDBZ · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG

Cases. They're Stanley tool cases and are perfect for all but the big ships, as you can see

Here's a random link to the first google result so you can see the part number and if they're available cheaply where you are.

u/krezmasters · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG

Since I have prime, I got this off amazon.

Looks to be the same thing, just made by Stanley.

u/mrbiggbrain · 2 pointsr/DnD

Both the links /u/ZoraSage and /u/OneCritWonder posted are excellent options. Very expensive, but worth it.

For something much cheaper try this organizer meant for small items. I got it for some 3.5e stuff and by removing a bunch of the little cups it fits a DnD book, pens, a notepad, tons of dice, and Pathfinder Pawns. Not pretty, but super functional.

u/happygocrazee · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG

I literally carried a handful of b-wings into the store in the front pocket of a hoodie after having them in my car's cupholder all day.

Then I bought some Stanley's.

u/PFS_Character · 2 pointsr/Pathfinder

I use a couple Stanley organizers (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005QWYF/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), alphabetized. I keep the bases jumbled up in the original box, and only store the bases that I've painted in the toolboxes (painted bases help me track enemies of the same type, so I don't have a need for tons of bases).

Note that there is a large discrepancy in the numbers of enemies by letter (for example, demons, devils, and dragons all start with "D"), so you will probably have to spread letters across compartments, make sub-categories by letter, and/or put more than one letter in a compartment to save space (for example, "x" and "y" can be easily put together).

I only have a couple bestiaries worth of pawns; you might want something different if you have much more than that. Of course, nothing is stopping you from simply getting a lot of toolboxes like this guy did: http://i.imgur.com/13wYjeV.jpg

More info here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Pathfinder_RPG/comments/2fy6b5/pathfinder_pawns_sorting_project/

u/sparkyman215 · 2 pointsr/everymanshouldknow

A good knife. Kershaw stainless steel ones are the best, they aren't cheap when it comes to knives but they last forever (unless you lose it). Carry it in your pocket and make it a habit.
PS: I use a Kershaw 1660

u/slowwburnn · 2 pointsr/knives

For cheap assisted knives, Kershaw is the way to go. You can get an OSO sweet under $20, or a cryo under $25, both of which are popular around here in their price range. If you have a little more to spend, the Leek is a great choice.

u/ethanzh · 2 pointsr/EDC

The Tenacious looks good for the price.

So now I'm down to 3 I would like to choose from,

  • Kershaw Cyro

  • Kershaw Leek

  • and the Spyderco Tenacious

    So I think I might be leaning towards the Leek, except for what you said about the thin steel. Will that be a major issue? The Tenacious looks good, only thing is that it doesn't have to spring loaded opening, which is something I didn't really know I wanted until now. Then there's the Cyro, which has a slightly smaller blade (1/4 of an inch shorter), but it also has the spring loaded system, only thing is it doesn't look as simplistic as the Leek, but I think I can get over that. Which would you recommend of the Cyro and the Leek which I've posted? Because I realize there are different variations of each knife, but if I get either, I will be getting the ones I've linked to. Thanks.
u/N3DD3L · 2 pointsr/knives

Or one of my favorites because it's less bulky and can be swiftly opened one hand

Kershaw Leek

u/inertialfall · 2 pointsr/Skookum

Kershaw Leek is my EDC. It's good, sharp, easy to resharpen, and cheap like borsch


It's also spring loaded cam-over with a lock. It's not technically a switchblade so it's even legal in california.

The belt clip is reversible and I always reverse mine and the ones I buy for other people because the knife feels backward or up-side-down in the factory position.

I've had mine for over 10 years and I can't find anything I like better.

u/BalancedEdge · 2 pointsr/knives

All of these knives I'm linking to the amazon price which is much cheaper. The MSRP's are either in the 50-65 range, or the Amazon price is in the 50-65 range and the MSRP is much higher.

Kershaw Leek

CRKT Swindle

Spyderco Cricket

Cold Steel Code 4 Spearpoint

Cold Steel Code 4 Tanto

u/wolf_moon101 · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

Yeah, as others have said, there's just nothing that will prevent that. Even locked bike rooms can be defeated by a determined thief.

I recommend keeping your bike in your condo. I'm currently building a metal pegboard and bike rack setup (I'll post in the sub once I'm done), but the below bike rack is tool-free and keeps your bikes out of the way.



u/skelengtonsex · 2 pointsr/bicycling

This is what I bought for my apt. I would thing the difference in prices is from aesthetics and overall size of the rack. This gravity stand takes up less floor space and is less industrial looking then the one in your picture. Which could account for the higher price tag. I have one carbon bike on there now and it could easily hold another.

I'm sure that most all of them will work regardless of price. With multiple carbon bikes on a free standing rack I would look at the reviews to see if others have done the same.

u/All_Purpose · 2 pointsr/MTB

I have one of these and I was able to store two bikes in my room without problems.

u/r1crystal · 2 pointsr/cycling

For free-standing, this one is great. I had 4 bikes at my old apartment and had two of these racks side by side in my entry-way. If you want to hang them vertically, the link below is a great one.


vertical wall mount

u/rockenreno · 2 pointsr/bicycling

on amazon.com, of course!

u/underscore · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I've got one of these in my apartment. The arms are a bit fiddly, but I like it well enough.

u/UnrealSquare · 2 pointsr/MTB

I haven't personally used any of these products but maybe this Top Vertical Stand, Bike Nook Stand, Double Vertical, or Gravity Stand would work?

u/MuddieMaeSuggins · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Check the height of your ceilings - we ended up not getting one of those because the only model tall enough was freaky expensive. Instead we got a the two-bike gravity stand. Ours was only $50, but we found the last one at Target on sale - they must have been getting rid of them.

For the ceiling mounted models, I would be less worried about the deposit and more worried about what your ceiling is made of. If you live in an older building, ceiling mounts can be a great way to pull your entire ceiling down. You definitely won't get your deposit back if that happens.

u/SirDuckferd · 2 pointsr/toronto

Here is a drill-less option that can hold two bikes:


I actually use this in my garage to keep both bikes off the ground. I did NOT need to drill anything into the walls as it simply leans against it, it's surprisingly stable.

u/_h2 · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting
u/cupcakesweatpants · 2 pointsr/breakingmom

This is the best thing ever for clogged drains, especially if it's a bunch of hair stuck in the tub.

u/YodaTuna · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I use one of these

It works, but man, it can be gross.

u/tamar · 2 pointsr/AskReddit

I just found a link on Amazon. I warn you not to click on the customer photos. Gross.

I guess it's like a snake for household use.

u/1950sGuy · 2 pointsr/PointlessStories

You'll want one of these eventually. Works especially well in slow shower drains.

u/britina · 2 pointsr/TrollXChromosomes

I have super thick hair that is past my waist and I used to buy so much Drano. Have you ever tried the zip-it? It just pulls the hair out of the drain and the results last a lot longer than liquid plumbing stuff for me. Plus there are tons of disgusting videos of youtube to show you how to use it. And those little drain strainer things help a ton too, because they keep the hair out of the drain in the first place.

u/bitchkat · 2 pointsr/HomeMaintenance

Get a ZipIt, stick it drown the drain and it will likely pull a giant hair snake out of the drain.

u/Drawtaru · 2 pointsr/wheredidthesodago

I use one of these fuckers right here. Push it as far in as it will go, move it in a circle, in and out a few times (that's what she said), then haul out the nasty clump of demon jizz blocking your drain. Repeat as necessary.

u/bloodorange_crush · 2 pointsr/pics

Speaking of tool belts, you may want to include the [Zip-It] (http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Products-00412BL-Zip-It-Cleaning/dp/B000BO9204) style drain cleaner and the curved hemostat for the inevitable sink/tub clogs. Also, check out videos for removing sink stoppers. The lift arm/stopper intersection is where most hair accumulates in sinks.

u/FamilyHeirloomTomato · 2 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

Don't use drain chemicals, use one of these. They actually work and don't release nasty chemicals into the wild.

u/ECPT · 2 pointsr/tipofmytongue
u/Baked_Otter · 2 pointsr/tifu
u/Spleenbrkr · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

I use a Zip-It Drain Cleaning Tool. Its basically a flat plastic stick with barbs to pull up hair. Works like a charm.


u/NitWit005 · 2 pointsr/WTF

Here... I think: http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Products-400-Drain-Cleaning/dp/B000BO9204

That is the worst product photo I've ever seen.

u/knowhatimsayin · 2 pointsr/EDC

I've been thinking about getting an edc pocket knife. Is the manix 2 really worth the extra 60 compared to something like this kershaw? I'm about to start researching myself, but you seem pretty knowledgeable.

u/ciridan · 2 pointsr/knives

I can't speak to the quality of the Ontario, but I made the switch to the Skyline from a SOG Flash II and the reduction in weight was great. I have the base Skyline in 14c28N and it's a workhorse for the size.

The flipper by itself is enough to warrant buying one.

u/teraquendya · 2 pointsr/knives

I got a Kershaw Skyline. Great knife. Opens with index finger too. Super light, very good grip and an excellent blade.

u/yertle_the_squirtle · 2 pointsr/knives

Have you ever tried flippers? The Kershaw Skyline
can be had for around 40 bucks and also has the incredible attention to detail find on the usa made Kershaws.

It's not assisted but it'll open just as easily with one finger and because there's no spring to push back it's also easier to close one handed.

u/ActualRealAccount · 2 pointsr/backpacking

I bicycle tour, but it is almost the same.

Kershaw Skyline awesome little knife for a great price!

u/hughmungus2016 · 2 pointsr/EDC

Kershaw Skyline i love it. Used it before i switched to Benchmade

u/ThatFatKidVince · 2 pointsr/offmychest

Same here, I carry my Kershaw Skyline with me wherever I go and it comes in handy at almost every day

u/Ltkeklulz · 2 pointsr/gadgets

Also, Kershaw Skyline for ~$40. It's my current EDC

u/Tolookah · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

If I understand correctly, there's a chance that blackened bit is keeping that side of the connection to the dryer from being a good connection. (that black sooty carbon is a decent insulation when you don't want it to be). without pictures, it's hard to tell if the cord has problems, but that's where I would look first.

Related for others, do they make a receptacle tester for the 4 prong outlets? I'm thinking something similar to this https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-50542-3-Wire-Receptacle/dp/B002LZTKIA

u/gar187er · 2 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

Yup. It has a 3 lights and tells you if it's good, or has an open neutral, or bad ground.


u/roofuskit · 2 pointsr/DIY

Any hardware store carries something like this for $10 or less. https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-50542-3-Wire-Receptacle/dp/B002LZTKIA

u/djimbob · 2 pointsr/Bass

You need to ground your amp. First, those outlets look pretty unsafe. You are hearing main line buzz (click the 60 Hz mains hum)

Really what you need to do is get an electrician to rewire the outlet with a proper ground and follow local electrical code. Not doing it is risk of death/electrocution/fire.

However, if it's not an option (e.g., renting or it's cost-prohibitive), you could get away with a plug adapters like the following:


if properly installed (e.g., the junction box is metal and grounded, and so you screw that adapter into the outlet so there's a connected ground). As a last resort if you like to live dangerously, you may be able to clamp an electrical wire to between the adapter ground and a metal water/radiator pipe (again if you are sure there's no non-metal connector anywhere along the pipe), if the pipe is grounded. You probably would want GFCI circuits if you are doing this, because if there is a ground fault (say from a bad appliance being plugged in), you don't want you metal water pipe to suddenly become live and potentially electrocute you and/or start a fire.

Once the outlet is grounded you should test with a ground tester (like $5) and verify you have a real ground and no other issues.

There could additionally be other grounding problems if the wiring in the guitar is bad or the cable is also bad, but you will have bad buzzing if you don't fix the ground first.

EDIT: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nakpj_Mee0Q

u/the_fritz · 2 pointsr/Guitar

You might also want to check the outlet for a ground fault. There is an inexpensive device you can get at the hardware store, like this:


u/ioctl79 · 2 pointsr/electrical

No. There's lots of wiring mistakes you could make and still operate a lightbulb: reverse hot/neutral, open ground, neutral/ground short, etc. Get one of these to test the wiring connections:

Note: not an electrician.

u/salomoncascade · 2 pointsr/Portland
u/wch_one · 2 pointsr/leaf

You can get a plug tester like this to diagnose if there's a wiring problem: https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-Receptacle-Indications-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA

If it's happened from other outlets, it could be that the whole circuit has a problem. When I first plugged in the charger I got with my Leaf, it had a blinking green light. I used one of these plug testers and confirmed that the circuit for the garage wasn't grounded at all.

u/ArkyBeagle · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

These are not optional. I carry one in my gig bag ( as a player ) because I do not want to die:

u/evaned · 2 pointsr/electricvehicles

> From what you've described it sounds like a ground error

Even though it may not change what you do, I think it's worth a quick check with one of those cheapo outlet testers (link to an example I got to via a quick Google search, no specific endorsement of that one). One of the things they test for is whether there's an open ground.

Note, these outlet testers are not perfect. There are faults and combinations of faults they can't diagnose or can't completely diagnose. In this particular case, if I pull something out of my ass I can imagine the EVSE doing a more rigorous test of the quality of ground, so just because the outlet tester indicates that there's no open ground doesn't mean it's a good enough ground.

I have vague memories of people saying that some EVSEs won't provide power if they don't have a good ground, so this could be it.

u/binarycow · 2 pointsr/homeowners

Grab an outlet tester. First thing is, it will test the outlet in the moment. But, if you leave it plugged in, you can have a constant visual indicator if the outlet is working (there's a light on it).

But yeah, replace the outlet.

Links: https://www.homedepot.com/c/how_to_install_a_receptacle_HT_PG_EL


u/B1ackMagix · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Run, don't walk, to your nearest home depot / lowes and buy an outlet tester for 5-6 dollars. Should look like this


It's fairly simple to use, plug it in, see what lights come on and go from there. I'm almost willing to put money on your outlets not being properly grounded and if that's the case, there are probably more. You'll want to test the outlets in and around your house paying particular attention to any area with water in it (bathroom, kitchen, outside).

The UPS won't provide a ground if there's not a ground on the outlet.

u/5aculu5 · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Check every outlet you plug into with one of these: http://www.amazon.com/GE-50542-3-Wire-Receptacle-Tester/dp/B002LZTKIA/

I plugged a headphone amp into an improperly wired outlet then connected it to my interface on another circuit resulting in a huge voltage drop against grounds killing all outputs on my interface and blowing a fuse. A small voltage drop between circuits will cause a shock, while an improperly wired outlet across grounds can kill.

u/LeaveTheMatrix · 2 pointsr/talesfromtechsupport

For first testing I just use one of these

Can carry it in your pocket and seems to be pretty reliable. (hasn't failed me in 10 years so far)

For extended testing, such as if that shows a problem or later develop a problem (damn mice) then I go with a standard voltmeter.

EDIT: Better link that shows what all it checks for.

u/skintigh · 2 pointsr/cablefail

I've run into shit like that in dorms with mis-wired outlets. Invest in one of these and test every outlet before using it http://www.amazon.com/GE-50542-Receptacle-Improper-Indicator/dp/B002LZTKIA

You can even find them at stores for $2

u/shadowblade · 2 pointsr/DIY

I also strongly recommend a receptacle tester. Good for quick checks like OP is talking about. It also indicates any wiring faults.

u/graffiti81 · 2 pointsr/fixit

Upvote for having a $5 tester. Everyone should have one.

u/cerealport · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

Get a power bar with surge protector that has the "building wiring fault" LED on it, or get one of those "outlet checkers" at Home Depot etc. I.e. https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-3-Wire-Receptacle-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA

Although those checkers can sometimes lie about the ground if something is plugged in that is tying the ground to neutral, where in that case my building wiring fault LED still told the truth.

Basically plug in and switch on the power bar / check the lights before plugging everything else in..

u/intronert · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

Immediately tomorrow, go to Harbor Freight, or Fry's, or Amazon.com, or wherever and buy a 3-prong electrical receptacle tester like this, for example, and check your outlets. Then hire an electrician to come in an fix them.

Or just skip the tester, and get the electrician in before someone dies.

u/nx_2000 · 2 pointsr/CasualConversation

Another thing about the outlets would be checking to make sure the three-prong ones are actually grounded. Socket testers are cheap, or you may already have a power strip with a ground light.

u/iNViSiBiLiTi · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I heard the engineer desoldering pump was pretty nice for desoldering LEDs.

u/Waahstrm · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Some will recommend the Engineer SS-02. I prefer the Soldapullt.

There's also this, but I haven't tried it myself. It's apparently good too.

I would buy some decent soldering wick just in case, for those stubborn pads. 99% of the time you won't need it in my experience though, given how big switch holes are.

u/0culus_ · 2 pointsr/diyelectronics

I initially got one similar to that and it’s junk. Get this one instead. It pulls a much stronger vacuum than those plastic ones and the replaceable silicone tip lets you get right onto the work without melting anything.

u/Moosewing · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Here's every desoldering tool I've used so far, from worst to best:

  1. The one that came with my soldering station: lasted a week before falling apart.
  2. The one I bought from radioshack. Lasted 2 weeks before falling apart.
  3. ECG J-045-DS: Awkward to use, doesn't suck very well, no temperature adjustment, takes a long time to heat up, sprays hot solder everywhere instead of solid chunks like with the non-powered pumps.
  4. Tenma 21-8240: Recommended by someone on this sub. Has similar issues to the ECG, except it's far less awkward to use and it does have decent suction. However, the handle is poorly insulated so it gets pretty hot after a while.
  5. Engineer SS-02: Biggest issue with this one is dry solder getting stuck in the silicone nozzle, but that's been happening less and less as I've used it more. Good suction, good construction, no need to use a second outlet.
u/Lanreix · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Depends on your budget. The best solder sucker that I've found is this. It's more expensive, but works much better than the few other common ones that I've tried.

For soldering irons I've seen a number of recommendations for the TS100 (and similar models). There is also the classic choice of the Hakko F-888D (which is what I have). You should pick something appropriate for your budget.

u/ns90 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

If you want to stay cheap, go with one of these, but a gun would definitely be better. These are a bitch to desolder.

u/RedHawk02 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Buy this and it'll be just about as easy taking them out as putting them in, once you've got the hang of it. I had it down using the cheapo one that cheap soldering kits come with but I actually enjoy desoldering with this one.

/u/emenelopee Sick board btw!

u/Ailurion · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Honestly I got a cheap one like that and I hated it, it was a nightmare. Someone recommended I get the Engineer instead and it was night and day:


Three times the price, but worth every penny. If you do not intend on doing a lot of desoldering, then it's probably not worth the extra investment.

u/zjsk · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I got this kit. [Vastar Full Set 60W 110V Soldering Iron Kit] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01712N5C4/ref=CM_SW_R_CP_APA_ZV6IZBDB771M1)

I ended up getting a few other things and a better solder sucker after a few jobs.

[Hakko 599B-02 Solder Tip Cleaning Wire and Holder] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPGDLA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9Y6IzbHX1H6MD)

[Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=CM_SW_R_CP_APA_W06IZBVBPKVMP)

The sucker was totally worth the extra cost.

u/unwinds · 2 pointsr/crtgaming

Using solder wick on through-holes is terrible. I use this solder sucker. It's a bit on the pricey side, but the silicone rubber tip gives it surprising suction despite being small enough to operate one-handed. I used to use this, which is cheap but... cheap. It broke after a while. Worked well enough before then, though.

u/Kevin_Wolf · 2 pointsr/whatisthisthing

I had to go out to the garage and look, that's the same company, but not the right model. Mine is a little different than what Adafruit sells. It's an SS-02. I really love it.

u/Woovie · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Also available on Amazon.


It's a bit more, but hey guaranteed shipping timeframe so it's worth it to me. Thanks for the tip, I've been using wick and about to do a 104 key, let's hope this baby lasts through that.

u/superuser41 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002MJMXD4/ has gotten very good reviews but is $20 more expensive. Adafruit also recommends and sells it. Personally I’m having a hard time resisting getting a vacuum desoldering station.

u/sd59fifty · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I own this kit and it works great! Solder sucker wasn't too good so I got [this]
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MJMXD4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to go with it.

u/c1arkbar · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

[on/off switch ](GE Lighting Control On/Off Switch, Z-Wave, In-Wall, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12722 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N.QGybF1J18NP)

[dimmer](GE Smart Dimmer, Z-Wave, In-Wall, 12724, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JaRGyb67MY877)

Here you go. You can switch the items on those pages to find the toggles as well as fan controls etc

u/A1cntrler · 2 pointsr/smarthome

Your best solution is to replace the in wall switch you're using with a Z-Wave one. This way you can still operate the lamp from the switch AND still control it through the app/Alexa. If you wanted to get fancy, there's a version of this switch that has a dimmer built in as well.


u/theoxfordcomma · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

You could do this using zwave devices. It will cost some money up front but you'll have a solid base to build out more complex home automation tasks if you want to.

You can turn any computer into a local "hub" with a Zwave USB dongle. This one is pricey but works really well. Plug that into a spare laptop lying around the house or buy a Raspberry PI.

Install the Home Assistant package on the computer or PI that you plugged the dongle into. This makes it easy to send and receive signals from Zwave devices without having to learn a bunch of low level APIs. You can write automation commands using YAML markup or write complex, custom tasks using Python. Home Assistant is just a bundle of open source free software, so I don't think of it as a "service", but you could roll your own software if you like that replaces it. It all runs locally, not in the cloud, so you own and control it.

Now you can buy any Zwave switch you want. GE has a bunch of reasonable priced switches.

You can get an "add on" switch that does not hook into your home power but controls smart light bulbs like Hue using over the air signals.

Or you can buy a real switch that does control existing lights through the power in your home -- this will let you send signals to your switch using your Home Assistant "hub" to turn lights on or off and dim them without having to replace existing bulbs.

Have fun.

u/AviN456 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

I use these, and they work perfectly.

u/Leftychill · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

I would suggest the GE Zwave switch mentioned above if you have a capable hub (Wink/Vera/Smartthings, etc.), or if you really want to fine tune control, you can use a GE Zwave Fan speed control switch. IMO, both are better options than the Wemo.




u/hunterstee · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

/u/Alwayssunnyinarizona raises a lot of good points as usual. I would also add that if you ever outgrow ST, you can always integrate it with Home Assistant and keep ST as the basic device manager.

Lights (dimming): https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2

Lights (non-dimming): https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2

Fan: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Control-Z-Wave-12730-Amazon/dp/B00PYMGVVQ

All three of those work with ST, but do indeed require neutral wires.

u/Broadsid3 · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

Do you have a model switch you recommend? I was looking at these but they seem pretty pricey

u/Nate1n22 · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

If you have a neutral wire I recommend these:


I doubt leaving the lights on is skyrocketing your electricity bill though. Another option would be LED bulbs.

u/RelevantJesse · 2 pointsr/electricians

Yeah, sorry, I didn't know how to phrase that properly. I meant I replaced the switches in a 4 way circuit.

It's not the standard 1 4-way and 2 3-way switches, though.

One of these - https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2

And two add on switches - https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-Lighting-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ

So I twisted together the hot line and a traveler to send power to box 2 where I installed the primary switch.

Right now I also have the load line in box three twisted with a traveler to send that to box 2 as well.

So the circuit should be only operable by one switch now, or so I'd think.

Edit: this circuit previously had a 4 way switch in box 2 and 3 way switches in boxes 1 and 3

u/censor_this · 2 pointsr/SmartThings
  1. As long as it says "zwave enabled" or something of that nature it will connect to smartthings. All of the companies you listed above I have at least one of in my house all connected to my hub. Just look for the zwave logo.

  2. Everything you've listed can be placed with my go-to switch:
    they're pretty inexpesive and reliable. There are cheaper, but I've had issues with some of them so I've decided to just go with these when I change out switches.

    If you have 3-way switches (though you didn't list any) you need the companion switch and some rewiring of the boxes. If you're handy it's not too bad. If you don't know the difference between the white wire and black wire, I'd spend some time on youtube before get too far into pulling the boxes apart.

    Another important thing to mention on the wiring front: If you have an older house, you need to make sure that you have a neutral wire in all the boxes that you want to put a smart switch in. Newer houses will have them because the electrical code was updated to require them - that wasn't in place (or followed) until 20-25 years ago.
u/ekzoo85 · 2 pointsr/winkhub

First off, welcome -- it's a fun ride!

Re: Dimmers/Plugs/Etc
Caseta is nice, I have a couple of switches and they work great. Especially if you want to create 3-way switches without wiring. What I mean is that you can just replace one hard-wired switch with a smart switch and then use the Caseta Pico for the secondary location (which just adheres to the wall).

Just some thought starters as you explore further -- for hardwired switches, in addition to Lutron, I have had a ton of success with the GE/Jasco Z-Wave switches.


I have the generic on/off switch, dimmer switch and fan switch by them (more on the dimmer function later).

For my plug-in switches, currently I have a couple different ones I use for Christmas lights, and a couple of lamps and a floor fan.

My favorite is this random one I found by Inovelli or Show Home (not sure -- looks like Inovelli is a distributor or something):


I like it because you can control two outlets individually vs just one like all the other ones and it's around the same price too.

I also own a Leviton plug-in which works great too, but only controls one outlet -- still no complaints:


Ok, now on to your question about blog/forum/guide, etc...
Here's a good place to start:


I also enjoy reading the Wink Group comments on Facebook -- I can't remember the name of the group, but if you just search for Wink Home Automation, I think it shows up. That group has been awesome for learning new things. It's a fairly large group too.

Lastly, I think I understand what you're asking, but if not, I apologize. How the GE Dimmers work (and I'm assuming the other ones too) is that you can use the switch manually like any dimmer switch -- hold up and it gets brighter, hold down and it gets dimmer, tap the up button and the light turns on to the last setting you left it at, tap the bottom button and the light turns off.

You can also set the percentage (or approximate, I don't recall it having actual numbers -- it's more a sliding scale) you'd like it to go to from within the Wink app (ex: have your light come on to around 75% at 8pm, then dim to 50% at 10pm).

Make sense?

Hope this helps.

u/robmcguinness · 2 pointsr/Abode

I kept forgetting to turn on/off my porch lights so I installed GE Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control On/Off Switch, In-Wall, 12722 and enabled two IFTTT recipes If sunrise, then turn off Porch Lights switch and Turn on lights at sunset. It's fantastic.

u/valkyrieamber · 2 pointsr/amazonecho

The device in your picture is called a 3-gang plate.

My solution when I needed to do this in my home was to get a Samsung Smartthings hub. It's compatible with Alexa plus a ton of other stuff so it's a sensible purchase. I highly recommend it.

Once you have Smartthings, you can get any z-wave or zigbee devices and they can be controlled either through the Smartthings app or through Alexa.

GE Z-Wave switches: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035YRCR2/

3-Gang Paddle plate:

u/IMightBePaulasBitch · 2 pointsr/AsianBeauty

You haven't bought one yet? But what about having a sparkling clean choco starfish?


Seriously, the one I have is expensive, but glorious.

u/Walts_Frozen_Head · 2 pointsr/mildlyinteresting

You guys need to get a bidet.

u/efro4472 · 2 pointsr/news
u/FavoriteActorDennehy · 2 pointsr/sex

I was looking at the Astor that's top rated in the bidet category but the lack of heat control kind of turned me off. Are you finding that only cold water is a problem? This one is the highest rated with temperature control, but it's about twice as much.

u/cartermatic · 2 pointsr/Hue

It largely depends on how much length you need. If you only need a few feet, the regular light strips from Phillips are your best bet. If you're doing long runs, it can be a lot cheaper to go 3rd party.

I ran about 30 feet for my apartment using 3rd party, and spent a little over $100. I compared it to the light strips and it would have been around $450 using just light strips. So far the integration has been super easy.

Here's what I bought:

1x FLS-PP for $55 (this is what you use to control the lights via the Hue app)

1x 12v power supply for $12

1x set of pigtails (only needed one of them, so a local AV or tech store might sell individual ones) for $5

2x 16ft SUPERNIGHT RWBWW LED Strips for $17/ea

They aren't as bright and as uniform as the Hue Lightstrips, but you get what you pay for. The Hue Lighstrips are $90 for 6.5feet, and I would have needed 5 boxes total, so $450 just for the strips.

u/Nebakanezzer · 2 pointsr/smarthome

I use this for my closet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NMSQ4QQ/

full color and hue app recognizes it because it's zigbee. not that I need colors in my closet, but the plain white controller wasn't much cheaper, so I figured why not.

u/garrettwp · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Have a look at the FLS-PP lp by Dresden Elektronik. It is a zigbee led strip controller that will work with Philips Hue and should work with Smart Things Hub. It will work with the 505SMD led strips.


u/mareksoon · 2 pointsr/winkhub

I didn't want to (or wasn't ready) to replace ceiling fans, and my light and fan were wired separately, so I opted for the Lutron Caseta in-wall dimmer for the light and the GE smart fan controller for the fan.

This setup works perfectly with Wink and Echo if you ignore Wink sees the fan controller as a light (just name it ceiling fan) and therefore, doesn't understand low, medium, or high (so I say off, 25%, 50%, or 100%).

I'll warn that I was quite happy with my Lutron switches until I saw how sleekly GE incorporated dimming into their Decora-style rocker switch ... which people are more accustomed to. Average Joe walks in, and although the Caseta is clearly labeled, they have a tendency to freak out.

On the other hand, what filthy peasant is still using their hands? ;-)

u/dac0502 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

You are welcome, as far as the camera goes I search on eBay and use the keywords "Vivint ping camera" (I am unsure how to link an auction from my phone. As far as add ons to my system I use 2gig PIR1 Passive Infrared Motion Detector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TZ73C6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ng.CzbM9GCJSE for the motion sensor, GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Dimmer Switch, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wi.Czb8H4K514 for my dimmers, Previous Model: GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12730 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1i.CzbBD0V1RF for my ceiling fans, GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Duplex Receptacle Outlet, On/Off, In-Wall, White, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12721 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Lj.CzbQAY9KV4 for my outlets. I have found home automation to be addicting and expensive haha.

u/cmfrazier · 2 pointsr/winkhub

GE 12730 Z-Wave Smart Fan Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_k.W2wbCC5SW29The GE Fan Control switch works. You'll have to have a switch for both the fan and light.

u/DavidAg02 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Need more info... do you currently have 2 switches? One that controls the fan, and one that controls the fan lights?

If so, you'll need 2 replacement switches:

Fan: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Required-SmartThings-14291/dp/B00PYMGVVQ

Fan Light: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Required-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R

You could use a dimmer switch for the fan lights, but you would probably need to change out the bulbs for dimmable bulbs. The switch I linked does not do dimming.

u/coworker · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

You could accomplish this with home automation. Replace the fan switch with this zwave switch and then add a Wink or Smartthings hub. Your phone would be the remote. You can also get an Amazon Echo for cheap and then control the fan with your voice.

u/SurpriseButtStuff · 2 pointsr/googlehome

It's a standard Hampton Bay fan, but it's controlled with a GE ZWave fan wall switch.

If you're patient, Lowe's periodically marks them down to $35.

u/junkyboy55 · 2 pointsr/Hue

Hue ecosystem uses the Zigbee protocol. The Hue app can only control lights out of the box. There is only 1 fan controller for HA that I'm aware of and that's the GE zwave fan controller which requires a z-wave hub similar to SmartThings which also integrates with Hue and it works pretty well.

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12730 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ

u/dricha36 · 2 pointsr/googlehome

The most popular way to control fans is to get one of [these] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ) and link it through smartthings

u/nomar383 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

For the fan:

For the light pick any zwave dimmer you want.

Make sure you have neutral wires behind those existing switches.

Edit: buy a "companion switch" for the other wall. It's likely a 3-way switch setup.

u/pootsounds · 2 pointsr/winkhub

If you have a 3 wire ran from the switch to the fan (white,black,red,ground) you can do some variation of what I did for my Fan/Light rooms.

This for the light control. Also This if you want it to match with the fan switch.

This for the fan control.

If you only have a 2 wire ran from the fan/light to the switch then you would have to do something more along the lines of what u/caddymac suggested.

Hope this helps and if you have anymore questions let us know.

u/kernalrom · 2 pointsr/amazonecho
u/jhobbs74 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

There are a ridiculous number of options, but based on my bedroom:

A 52" Haiku H series with SensMe (HA integration) in a dark finish wood, with satin nickel base, on a level 9' ceiling, with a light fixture, and wall switch is $1315.00.

Or you can go to Amazon and buy a more sensible fan for $100-$300 dollars, and set up most of the same rules using a multi sensor and a z-wave fan control.


u/FuckleNut · 2 pointsr/flashlight
u/jonfromm · 2 pointsr/flashlight

Thanks for the giveaway! The Aurora looks worth checking out.

u/jay3011 · 2 pointsr/flashlight

Congrats on 38k and thanks para and anonymous benefactor for the giveaways! Looks like the RovyVon Aurora A5 will now qualify, so I'll go with that this time around.

u/PreparationX · 2 pointsr/flashlight

Love the giveaways! Thanks, Para! I'd love a Rovyvon!


Edit - Added Link.

Edit edit - I'm not a smart man.

u/TrueKingOfTheNerds · 2 pointsr/flashlight

RovyVon A5

I’ve been looking at this ever since the review posted to this sub.

u/atommclain · 1 pointr/huelights

I'm not sure what you mean by spliceable lights but maybe this product would fill that gap? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NMSQ4QQ

u/bjarkef · 1 pointr/Hue

I just ordered the Dresden Electronics FSL-PP LP of amazon.co.uk along with the suggested power adaptor as well as suggested RGBW led strips.

Wireless electronic ballast FLS-PP lp: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1453453271&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=fls-pp+lp&dpPl=1&dpID=41d%2Bw6ouySL&ref=plSrch

JnDee™ 12V 6A 6 amp 72W DC POWER Supply ADAPTER Transformer: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0086DE6FI/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1453453271&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=fls-pp+lp&dpPl=1&dpID=51oKWAafXcL&ref=plSrch

Mixed-Gadgets RGBW LED Light Strip 16.4ft 5M Flexible Non-waterproof RGB+White 300leds: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00PXOEOQ4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1453453271&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=fls-pp+lp&dpPl=1&dpID=51dKMQKvKZL&ref=plSrch

I ordered a total of 10 meters of led strip, and I am anxious to see if I can drive the entire 10 meters of that one power supply. Also if it will drop in intensity at the end as well as the quality of the white light.

I can update you with my experiences when it arrives if anybody are interested?

u/HapaHaole13 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

In my example, I believe I would need 3 FLS-PP IP Zigbee ballasts ($55ea), 1-2 RGBW LED strips ($17ea), 3 power adaptors ($17ea), a splitter (~$15ea), and 4 ethernet cable adaptors (~$20 total). Grand total ~$268 on the conservative end + tax.

Or I could buy 3 Hue lightstrips ($90ea), splitter (~$15ea), and 4 ethernet cable adaptors (~$20 total). Grand total ~$305 + tax.

I could save ~$40 or bite the bullet and know that my current ecosystem will work seamlessly with the Hue lightstrips. Either way its not cheap but there are trade offs to going the DIY route.

Please disprove my estimates/theory, I would happily pay less for a setup with equal functionality :)

P.S. I'll add links to the items listed above but I'm on the train commuting in and the wifi sucks :/

u/laboye · 1 pointr/homeautomation

The best I've come up with for this scenario is to either:

  • Like /u/Alwayssunnyinarizona mentioned, expand the gang box so you can add both a Z-Wave dimmer & a Z-Wave fan controller (like the GE 12730) side by side. Since you already have the separate fan and light wiring, this isn't too bad. You would need a drywall saw to expand the hole (or a small saw), [optional] tin snips to cut the old box out, a new 3-gang box and wallplate, and patience.

  • If you have the spare cash, Insteon makes the Fanlinc, which you can hide in the canopy. You could then add an Insteon KeypadLinc. Of course, the gadgets themselves are expensive, and you'd need to add an Insteon modem to your HA setup if you don't already have one. That said, it's as elegant as you'll get without modifying that box.

  • Finally, you could hide a micro dimmer and fan controller in the canopy and use an in-wall scene controller to make your HA hub command them. Not as elegant and more points of failure, but it'll get the job done.
u/Tlxsess · 1 pointr/Android

GE 12730. Replaces the switch on the wall. It may come in both deco & toggle styles.


u/Puffy555 · 1 pointr/amazonecho

I'm pretty sure it's this

u/Dopeaz · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Our new house came with at least one ceiling fan in every room. I lucked out in that all of them were wired with separate switches or I would be looking at installing zwave switches in the fans themselves. As it is, all I had to do was replace the switchs on the walls with GE 12730

u/earnstaf · 1 pointr/firstworldproblems

This is going to format like shit because I'm copying it straight from an email I wrote my sister.
The important bits: the hub is Samsung Smartthings, switches are mostly GE zwave switches, voice control provided by Amazon Echo.
Rolling it out across the whole house isn't easy or cheap, but it's worth it when you have someone over and you give the "turn on everything" command and you watch every light pop on, then do it in reverse.
This will get you started :)
> Switches: http://www.amazon.com/GE12722-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2
> Add-on Switches (for 3+ way): http://www.amazon.com/GE-12723-Add-On-Switch/dp/B00RKJS8MQ
> Dimmer:  http://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Dimmer-In-Wall-12724/dp/B006LQFHN2
> Fan: http://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ
> SmartThings: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Hub-2nd-Generation/dp/B010NZV0GE
> Door Locks: http://www.amazon.com/Schlage-Connect-Camelot-Touchscreen-Deadbolt/dp/B00AGK9KOG/ref=lp_511306_1_2?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1461284077&sr=1-2
> Thermostat:  http://www.amazon.com/Nest-Learning-Thermostat-Generation-Works/dp/B0131RG6VK/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1461284145&sr=1-2&keywords=thermostat+smart
> Echo (for voice control): http://www.amazon.com/Amazon-SK705DI-Echo/dp/B00X4WHP5E/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1461284177&sr=1-1&keywords=echo

There are other things like motion sensors and garage door controllers that start opening up some really cool "routines."

u/Letshavefunn4 · 1 pointr/amazonecho

This GE is one of the only ones I have seen. You need to replace the switch in the wall with this though. There is nothing I have found that you can hook up to the fan instead.


Edit: This is just to get the commands to your fan, you would need a Smartthings hub to make the rest work. Not a simple setup I'm afraid.

You could also drop a ton of money on a Big Ass Fan that works with Echo.


u/Koobles · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I use the GE fan controller. Works well so far. No issues with smartthings as I know of. https://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Smart-Control-12730/dp/B00PYMGVVQ

u/mistamo42 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

That's really just two switches in one box. You'd replace the left one with any old smarthome light switch.

The right one you'd replace with a fan switch.

u/one_2_three_4 · 1 pointr/amazonecho

Is that hard wired? The reason I asked about the switch is because I'm hoping Hook will help since the switch I referenced uses RF. The GE Fan Switch only controls the fan, not the light kit. Hook should be able to mimic the RF controls for the fan switch that I have and has some Echo integration. This is all speculation at this point, but I'll post once my device arrives by the end of April.

EDIT: Nope, Hook doesn't work with this type of RF connected Fan switch.

u/tri-crazy · 1 pointr/homeautomation

You could look into a RaspberryPi and the Pi version of the HomeSeer controller software. If you have a little time the software plus a Pi only costs a little more than a SmartThings. Otherwise I use SmartThings and I have really liked it so far.

As far as switches if you do not mind mixing brands this is what I do. Anywhere I have a dimmer, a 3+ way switch, or have the need for scenes I use HomeSeer. If I just have a regular switch I don't need to do anything fancy with I use GoControl switches as they are a bit cheaper if you look at the other sellers.

For the garage I use GoGoGate because I wanted to ability to give others access. I have seen others on this sub use these GoControl Garage Openers with contact sensors to verify open/closed.

I would also look into doing fan control

Depending on the size of your house and how many switches you are replacing this could get you pretty close to your $1k budget. You may need to add cameras later on. Also in your future endeavors I would look into EcoBee/Nest for temperature control.

u/theantirobot · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Might be able to install something like this and use it with any fan. http://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ and use it with smart things. If you have a fan with infrared control you could hook it up to logitech harmony, then to smart things, then to alexa.

u/LordAndre · 1 pointr/SmartThings

While I'm certainly envious of your handiwork with an Arduino and a soldering iron, I have two of these z-wave switches, and it's a lot simpler. Smartthings treats it like a dimmer out of the box, but adding this device type makes it perfectly seamless.

u/AndroidDev01 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Sorry if there are formatting errors and such I am on mobile.


You should really consider a better HUB/products if you want this level of automation. You are going to want an offline hub such as Vera or Homeseer (what I use). Homeseer I know will interface with the echo Vera should. Hubs like wink/SmartThings end up not working when...

  1. Your router doesn't work
  2. Your ISP's connection drops
  3. Hub's service provider (AWS most likely) goes down
  4. Hub cloud service doesn't work or needs maintenance
  5. Random outages/problems

    Similarly, you should NOT get a nest (or EcoBee). I have a nest and while I love the design it is fickle. I would instead recommend a z-wave thermostat. With a z-wave thermostat you can do almost everything nest can (no auto scheduling). Already Purchased


    You should seriously consider a different HUB

    Dimmers and Wall Switches

    Here is a good place to start. Lutron dimmers are fantastics although they can be a bit pricy (I don't think you mentioned a budget...). Other options include the GE 12724 for dimming if you want to go z-wave over Lutron. And, the GE 12722 for regular on/off. Or Homeseer is releasing new switches soon that look fantastic (Also z-wave)!

    Here's some more info. 1 2 3 4

    Garage Opener

    Chamberlain is great!


    If you cannot change/return your system that fine but I would recommend a DSC power series system as they almost universally integrate with automation systems Homeseer has a plugin as does Vera.


    Sonos is fine. It can be controlled via Homeseer/Vera (Think announcements). Or you can get an Echo Dot and connect it to the sonos connect via an audio cable. GET a WHA controller (Check the Outdoor speaker section for recommendations)

    Front Door Cam/Doorbell

    Either Doorbird a doorbell and camera (expensive) or a normal doorbell with an IP camera with motion record. The integrated solution is better but of course more expensive. If you end up with IP cameras you should consider Hikvison they seem to make the best cameras for the money.

    Outdoor Light

    Just install the smart switch of your choice.


    Not sure sorry. :-( GE has a fan controlling switch but I doubt it would work as you mention remotes...

    Under Cabinet Lighting

    Hue lightstips, Aeon lightstrips or a WIFI / Z-wave LED controller with regular strips. (Will edit later with links)

    Outdoor Speakers

    The Daytons are fine you could also go with Yamaha NS-AW150. For integration you could connect them to the MONOPRICE 6 Zone Controller and AMP. You could also connect the Sonos CONNECT to the monopice and have outdoor audio + sonos audio and send audio to any other zones you have!


    PM me or comment if you need any more info :-)


    *Will edit and add more info when I get to a keyboard.

u/krische · 1 pointr/smarthome

Is this what you are looking for? It's GE's Z-Wave fan control switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=asc_df_B00PYMGVVQ5057002/

u/mikewdome · 1 pointr/SmartThings

OMG I've thought about the exact same thing! How does it not exist yet?? This is a GE/Jasco device I found earlier, but have't read too much into it - https://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ

u/SuncoastGuy · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I don't expect you could use that for a fan. When I last searched, a few months ago, the only fan switches were stand-alone. Example
Are your light switches going to on/off or dimmable? if on/off and the outlet load is under 10amps, you should be able to find a dual switch for for the lights & outlet.
Another option might be on/off controls via relays. I haven't looked into that as I wanted fan speed control and light dimming but it might work.
You may want to look into replacing the light switch with a HomeSeer model with the double-tap feature if that can be configured as a virtual switch in your gateway to control an outlet

u/MrHaVoC805 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

You could get these two devices and be able to control the fan and light independently with variable speed control and dimming capability.

  1. Fan Switch:


  2. Light Control:


    Both of them can be controlled via Alexa or through the UI on whatever hub you choose.

    Hope this helps!
u/RedToby · 1 pointr/SmartThings

So what I was thinking of was like this switch, but maybe I was having a bit of a brain fart and confusing parts... This one is specifically designed for a multi speed ceiling fan type device. I had thought that there was a concern about wattages on a bathroom exhaust type fan too, but looking at this switch it specifically lists fans as compatible (at least as long as they are under 600w).

Edit: ah ha! The warning is to not use a standard dimmer switch to control fan speed... use a specific fan rated dimmer... or like the first link above.

u/MyPonyMeeko · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Doesn't GE have one too now?
GE Z-Wave Ceiling Fan Wall Switch (12730) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_powUub098BTZB

u/BreakfastBeerz · 1 pointr/smarthome

This is making sense now, I'm pretty sure I'm following you. Black in your hot, white is your neutral, bare wire is ground, red wire is "load", this is the switch line. The fact that you have this in the outlet box coming from the ceiling is good.

So, I'm assuming that when you pull the fan down, you will see that there is a fan controller that is hooked up to the black and white wires. Making it permanently "hot" the fan controller then relays the fan on and off. You will find the red wire abandoned, it used to be used (or was intended to be used) to switch the light, it is still attached to the "load" of the switch.

You are in good shape.... GE makes a pretty good z wave fan control module. https://www.amazon.com/GE-Control-Z-Wave-12730-Amazon/dp/B00PYMGVVQ. You will remove the fan module and hook the black wire to the black wire of the fan and the blue wire to the red wire. The white wires should all be tied together and it should be capped off in the box the physical switch is.

Here is a diagram. http://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/images/fan-switch-loop.gif

u/TaylorTWBrown · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Almost! The lutron stuff is a bit confusing. They have their pico/caseta line (which you don't want), and their connected bulb line.

You want this, this, and this. Of course, you'll also need Zigbee bulbs (Osram Lightify, GE Link, etc) and a compatible hub, such as Wink. If you'd like, you can get a second remote and keep it beside your bed.

Hope this helps!

u/jpaquino3 · 1 pointr/smarthome

Not a problem! GE has a smart fan switch that will work for what you need.
You would need a z-wave hub though.

Or you can get crazy with the Harmony and the Lutron Maestro IR fan and light switch
But no Siri voice control and probably awkward through Alexa.

u/Kupkaked · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Just wifi does not mean it is or would be compatible with Alexa at all.. Do you have a hub such as Smart Things or Wink? If so, you're at least on the right track.. you would need this product, which is very hard to get your hands on. This isn't compatible with Alexa just yet, but should be on the road map.

Aside from that, you can wire up two switches, like GE Zwave Fan Control, Lutron, Leviton Fan Control, ect. for Light and Fan independently. These run to the hubs mentioned above and than can be found via Alexa. Sometimes the hub isn't needed, it really depends on your home setup and which switch you want, and the functions you're after. Either way, these are zwave devices, not wifi.

u/kurros · 1 pointr/amazonecho

There are probably other solutions but you can use GE's Z-Wave Smart Fan Control switch via SmartThings. Should work as well with the other Z-Wave hubs.

u/Kovis · 1 pointr/homeautomation

If you currently have two switches, one for the fan and one for the light, you can get these. I have this setup in my living room and it's pretty sweet. You just need to set up the fan switch as a dimmer so that you can remotely adjust the fan speed just like you would a dimmer.

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Dimmer Switch

u/Kairus00 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

For what you are trying to achieve, z-wave and/or zigbee will do you best. The first thing you are going to need is a smart hub that has z-wave and/or zigbee radios. I use Samsung SmartThings, and it's decent and has both radios. There are other options on the market, but I think SmartThings is probably the most popular one on the market.

I can link you some products that I have in my house that work great with my SmartThings hub, and will work with various other hubs on the market.

Fan Control (speed only, not light)

Motion sensor (You can normally find these for $30 or less)

Door/window sensor

Dimmer switch

Garage door opener

Plug in outlet

u/relativityboy · 1 pointr/smarthome

Install one of these and a dimmer for lights. , Run separate wiring to the fan box for bulbs

The get an Emerson DC motor fan and a simple light kit.

Bullet proof and almost completely silent at speed. You'll love it.

u/drhill80 · 1 pointr/googlehome

I have two GE zwave fan switches using my wink hub and Amazon Echos. Works fine but obviously I'm waiting for wink integration for the home. I imagine it will work fine with a SmartThings hub.


u/Mikealcl · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Just to double check would these 2 be all I need?


u/fastlerner · 1 pointr/homeautomation

So I guess they're finally catching up?

I retrofitted my ceiling fans by replacing the wall switch with a zwave smart dimmable 3-speed fan switch. It works well with no expensive fan replacement. Only difference is Google just sees it as a dimmer switch so it doesn't understand "low, medium, high", but if you give it a percentage, it sets it to the closest speed.

"set fan to 33%" = low, etc...

u/A5HRAJ · 1 pointr/homeautomation

You'll have to connect separate switches for the motor and the light. This may require installation of a larger wall switch electrical box (e.g. if you have a 1-Gang box, replace it with a 2-Gang box) and/or
running additional electrical wire to the fan from the wall box.

I've only seen two options for controlling fan motors: the GE 12730 or the Leviton VRF01-1LZ. There are a bunch of options for the light, but the HomeSeer HS-WD100+ seems to be the current favorite.

u/TheThreeLaws · 1 pointr/flashlight

Sub is growing fast! The Royvon Aurora would be a great keychain upgrade! https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07F5H3CFH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GV3CCbGF916ZG

u/potatopotatopotato · 1 pointr/flashlight
u/manova · 1 pointr/flashlight

RovyVon Aurora Red. Thank you!

u/Precogvision · 1 pointr/flashlight

Thanks for the giveaway Para!

RovyVon Aurora Luminous Body, 550 Lumens Outdoor Mini EDC Rechargeable High Bright Multi-Functional Flashlight, with Reading Light and Red Warning Light, Idea as a Gift https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F5H3CFH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.x5CCbY71E522

u/Marcato5 · 1 pointr/flashlight