(Part 3) Best tools & home improvement according to redditors

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We found 100,714 Reddit comments discussing the best tools & home improvement. We ranked the 37,228 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Subcategories:

Wall painting supplies
Lighting accessories & strips
Electrical equipment
Hardware products
Building supplies
Measuring & layout products
Safety & security products
Kitchen & bath fixtures
Home appliances
Home storage & organization products
Drain cleaners & pumps
Power & hand tools

Top Reddit comments about Tools & Home Improvement:

u/CypherFox · 137 pointsr/airsoft

Don't skimp out on eye protection people! It's so cheap that nobody should even consider that a cost saving measure. You only get one pair of eyes after all. Good and cheap pair of eye protection is the Pyramex I-Force goggles for $25 CAD or $16.50 USD (Amazon.ca link and Amazon.com link). If you want a more traditional looking set of goggles there's also the Pyramex V2G-XP (Amazon.ca link and Amazon.com link).

To answer the obvious questions:

  • Yes, he was fine afterwards. He got very, VERY lucky. Went to the hospital as a precaution. UPDATE: He was hit where the eyelid covers the bottom of your eye. Was temporarily blinded in that eye but will suffer no long lasting effects.
  • They were soccer glasses. Obviously not rated. Nobody knew what he was thinking.
  • Checks of eye pro will be more through at the field for the next while, that's for sure.
u/osmenl · 73 pointsr/flashlight

Thanks for the giveaway. zebralight headlamp HELP please upvote. I’m so close to 100 comment karma.

u/_ImagineThat_ · 64 pointsr/marijuanaenthusiasts

Not a true jade, but rather portulacaria afra, aka Elephant Bush. Super cute, though. If you want it to last for a few years, it will need to be on the sill of a bright window or get supplemental lighting with a good grow light. You could buy a dedicated grow lamp (but then you’d have to put up with that awful purple light), otherwise a gooseneck desk lamp with a 100 watt equivalent CFL daylight (6500k) bulb (not LED) placed a few inches above the plant should work ok.

u/tragedyminuscomedy · 44 pointsr/CrappyDesign
u/subscapularis · 41 pointsr/succulents

I use these set on a timer for 14 hours a day. I have them positioned so they are approx 4-7 inches above the plants (depending on plant height).

u/somesillynerd · 32 pointsr/gardening

I use these and they work great.

I just have them zip tied to metal shelving. They're cheap, lightweight, don't get hot and are LED so less electricity useage.

I have 2 sets that I use for my entire set up, 2 per shelf.

I plan on using them to start my seeds indoors here shortly but they've worked great for my succulents, some even bloomed. People say you have to have the colored lights but you definitely don't.

I just have mine on a timer so I literally don't have to worry about a thing. I'll definitely have to pay more attention once I get my veg seedlings started, at least for water.

u/broken42 · 30 pointsr/airsoft

Valken Zulus are [Pyramex I-Force goggles](
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006WPSDXS/ref=s9_acsd_al_bw_c_x_1_w)

Valken Sierras are Pyramex V2G-XPs

Valken Echos are Pyramex Highlander XPs

Valken Axis are Pyramex V3Gs

Valken Alphas appear to be Pyramex Low Profile Chemical Splash goggles

The only goggles that Valken sells that aren't rebranded Pyramex goggles are the Tangos, and those are just knockoff Revision Desert Locusts.

u/BornOnFeb2nd · 29 pointsr/keto
  1. The first rule of Keto, is we do NOT talk about Keto to folks "outside"

  2. The second rule of Keto, is WE DO NOT TALK ABOUT KETO TO FOLKS "OUTSIDE"! You will get a LOT of fear-mongering if you do. At first, only allude to it.. like "cutting out sugar", "watching what I eat", etc... when you have indisputable proof that it IS working, then you can actually mention "No/Low-Carb".

  3. Get some flair going! (over by the subscribe button, the 'normal' format is Gender/Age/Height Starting Weight, Current Weight, Goal, but do what you like with it)

  4. If you're putting it in your steak hole, you'd better be weighing it (if it's not pre-packaged), and logging it. Quite a few of us are on MFP. This can help avoid "surprises" later, and help keep you accountable, even if only to yourself. Once you get the hang of it, you can let up, but if you stall out, that'll be the first thing people will ask: "Are you logging what you eat?"

  5. Treat foods with <1g carbs/serving as 1g, save yourself the headache.

  6. If you don't know if it has carbs in it, assume it has carbs in it, and probably quite a bit more than you expect.

  7. MEASURE EVERYTHING! Take before pictures, take during pictures, use a scale, but don't trust the bastard. Invest in a measuring tape If you don't have one already. There WILL be weeks where the scale doesn't budge, but you might simply be replacing fat with muscle.

  8. You're about to shed a bunch of weight, it'll be water. If this is surprising to you, read the FAQ!, the FAQ is good!

  9. Bonus points if you can arrange for "pre" bloodwork, so you can get some "post" bloodwork to help with point #2

    oh, and welcome! :D
u/EarlyForest · 26 pointsr/CatastrophicFailure

I was using one of these:

3M Paint Project Respirator, Medium

u/iSeeXenuInYou · 23 pointsr/succulents

Planning on buying this light setup for 4 shelves with succulents and cacti and houseplants underneath them. What do you guys think?

Edit: itll be near a west facing window, but i really would mainly like them to survive through the winter.

u/kmb11132 · 21 pointsr/AskReddit

Leatherman Squirt PS4 = pliers + scissors on a keychain-size tool

u/MGSSC · 18 pointsr/nvidia

You're welcome.

Cooler Master Accessory: Universal VGA Graphics Card Holder, Adjustable, Steel, Holds 2 VGA Card for Computer Cases https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IQCBKOI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ST50Bb37KBP62

u/other_other_self · 18 pointsr/programming

Have you tried over-the-ear hearing protection? It's made for power tools and the like, but in an office setting, it bestows pure, blissful silence. I had these, which were pretty conspicuous-looking, but there are smaller ones available. The Noise Reduction Rating is the most important thing to look for (higher is better).

u/frozenbobo · 16 pointsr/AskElectronics

If you want me to make it easy for you, just buy this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_dHlFub055QPJ9

If that's too much, there are maybe some other options, but that is an iron he will likely never need to replace. You can look for other products from Hakko or Weller. Adjustable temperature and availability of multiple tips are both importent features.

The irons available at RadioShack are mostly crappy, so I wouldn't recommend them.

u/squeecat · 15 pointsr/succulents

I got these recently and I’m pretty happy with them! I have 3 on my shelf with my more light hungry succs. 2 on one shelf with my less light hungry, and 1 on my prop shelf. I got them because in my sunniest spot they were still etiolating. New growth is all compact now, and even a little sunstress and some blooms! The lights are about 6-10in above my plants..

These are probably too long for that shelf tho. I know Barrina has 2ft lights like this that are actually made for plants but I’m not sure if the specs are right for succs. My lights stick out past my shelf so it’s not the prettiest but it’s functional. From my understanding the cheap clip plant lights from amazon don’t really do much of anything.


(Pack of 6) Barrina LED T5 Integrated Single Fixture, 4FT, 2200lm, 6500K (Super Bright White), 20W, Utility Shop Light, Ceiling and Under Cabinet Light, Corded electric with built-in ON/OFF switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HBT3BVM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ghNFDbAW91XJR

u/LockAndCode · 15 pointsr/Military

>Anybody else notice that fireworks sound like a nearby firefight?

I'm sitting here in my La-Z-Boy wearing foam earplugs, and over the ear hearing protection, and I already have 40% hearing loss, AND I took one of my "as needed" Xanax. I'd turn on a loud movie, but those flip me out too.

Not my favorite holiday.

u/downthecakehole · 14 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

Blazer Big Shot GT 8000

I got one of those and never looked back. Went through several of those shitty creme brûlée torches people mention. This one has been lasting me for months and months of constant use with no signs of breaking down anytime soon. Make sure not to skimp on butane either. If you're gonna spend 9.99 on a torch, you're going to get what you pay for: crap.

Video for the torch, if anyone is interested

Edit: Formatting

u/Bud2Budder · 13 pointsr/chinaglass

For someone who buys a lot of cheap shit, I wouldn't cheap out on a torch. Get the GT8000 Bigshot for only 41$ and you won't have to worry about a shitty flame and it breaking. This thing is the most recommending torch for a reason.

u/renational · 13 pointsr/Frugal

here are tips i can add to the pile; get an accurate remote thermostat or humidistat for your window A/C units.

http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

thermostats built into most A/C units are cheap, inaccurate and cycle your unit on/off unnecessarily.

what i do is plug an A/C rated appliance extension cord into this thermostat, then my A/C into the extension cord so the distance between the A/C and the thermostat is now across the room. this separate thermostat helps keep your A/C unit from cycling too much by moderating the temperature where you actually are in the room.

when you plug your A/C into this thermostate, set the A/C thermostate on lowest and fan on always. that way when the remote thermostate goes on the A/C will always be on Cool+Fan no matter what the temperature is.

some new A/C units have temperature sensing thermostat built into the remote control that you keep accross the room from the A/C unit window, so look for this feature when you are buying a new window unit as it should help you be more comfortable at higher ambient temperatures without your A/C cycling too much;

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036WTWCQ (i do not own this A/C, i just link it as an example)

.

if you really want to save money on A/C, you could set your unit to go on/off based on HUMIDITY, not temperature. to do that you will need to buy (and apply the same way as the above a remote thermostat);

http://www.amazon.com/DAYTON-1UHG2-Dehumidifier-Control-Plug/dp/B001OLVNU0

so when the room Humidity gets uncomfortably above 50%, only then will you let the A/C kick on more for it's dehumidification ability, then it's cooling power. once the air is lower in humidity you should be fine with nothing more than a box fan to circulate air against your skin for cooling.

.

if you live in a dry heat zone, combine a fan with a evaporative wick humidifier. as the water evaporates it takes heat energy out of the fan blown air and moderately cools the room. the added humidity will also make you feel more comfortable in the dry air. this approach is commonly known as a desert cooler. evaporative wicks can last all season if you use a capful of bacteriostatic solution in the water. to clean a wick, simply allow it to run dry for a few hours.

http://www.amazon.com/821-000-Digital-Control-Evaporative-Humidifier/dp/B0000D8EJZ

u/Landoperk · 13 pointsr/backpacking

Sawyer Mini water filter. $20 Arguably the best lightweight backpacking filter available.
Also, the Leatherman Squirt is on my backpacking wishlist this year.

u/cH3x · 13 pointsr/preppers

I like the Morakniv and firesteel ideas, and also:

u/harkatmuld · 13 pointsr/AskEurope

Bidets! I have this one and it is one of my best purchases of all time. Now I hate pooping anywhere but home.

There are other kinds too. When I was visiting Portugal they often had these bidets that were kind of a mix of a toilet and a sink, and I think you were supposed to run the water and wipe off with your hand... I never used it, but eventually the concept won me over.

Edit: amazon link if you're interested.

u/ThirstyOne · 12 pointsr/Survival

The Bacho Laplander seems to be popular with outdoor enthusiasts. I don't own one myself so I can't speak to it's quality. I do think it would be better off with a high-vis paint job but otherwise it seems pretty solid.

The saw I use is from the gardening section at my local hardware store. They usually have these $5 'gardening kit' sales that include a foam pad, pruning shears and a folding saw. Coincidentally, the exact same folding saw that's on 'sale' for $14 two isles over.

u/BillyNature · 11 pointsr/Bushcraft

This kind of folding saw is great for camp-scale stuff. And a nice 4" fixed blade knife that you can baton with is all you need to split it. I've heard this is a good starter knife for bushcrafting but I haven't got to use mine yet.

u/fka_reddit · 11 pointsr/Fitness

They make a special tape measure that connects back to itself. I will try to find it and edit my comment

Edit: like this http://www.amazon.com/AccuFitness-MT05-MyoTape-Body-Measure/dp/B000G7YW7Y

u/LesZedCB · 11 pointsr/Multicopter

Hakko 888D Soldering Iron. With this thing, soldering is actually fun. I look around just for things to solder with this baby.

EDIT: for reasons why it's great:

  • temperature controlled: always heat your solder to just the right temp. Makes for stronger joints and you don't end up burning up all your flux. It also means when metal sucks out the heat, the controller gives it a boost so it stays hot.

  • heats up in about 15 seconds.

  • digital readout of current temp

  • wire is very flexible. It isn't a nuisance when trying to make fine adjustments.

  • pencil is very thin and easy to grip, but it doesn't get hot because the heating element is at the tip.
u/ZombieSushi · 10 pointsr/TIHI

Have not tried this toilet add on bidet but some people swear by these. Forty dollar experiment.

Luxe Bidet Neo 120 - Self Cleaning Nozzle - Fresh Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (white and white) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JG2DETM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_j9P2Db322FZGA

u/World-Wide-Web · 10 pointsr/everymanshouldknow

you have to call for exchanges but then they give you free shipping. Not such a bad trade off.

As far as fit goes, I agree with /u/2takeke below, every piece of clothing has its own size chart listed. Figure out your measurements and you'll never have any more issues with "odd" or "inconsistent" sizes.

u/TheSuperSamoanDiet · 10 pointsr/CanadianMOMs

Depends on your budget. I use the Big Shot Blazer currently and its the best torch I’ve ever owned. You could get something cheaper though and still get the job done

u/spaceyjdjames · 10 pointsr/magicTCG

I use one of these. It holds up to 12 decks (though you need to buy 2 to get the correct compartments for that)

Stanley 10 Removable Bin Compartment Deep Professional Organizer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G1CUK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CIbLBbZ1TXT9W

u/iBody · 9 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Id start with something line this starter set, a 3/8 breaker bar, 1/2 breaker bar, a Decent torque wrench, a plier set, vice grips, channel locks, adjustable wrench, screw driver set, a multimeter, decent scan tool, a jack, a funnell some drain pans from walmart, pb blaster, jack stands and make some wheel chocks. I'm sure I'm missing something pertinent, but remember you can rent some tools at your local parts store for free with a deposit so check to see what they rent before you buy. Also buy the remainder of the tools as you need them, its tough buying a lot of tools at once especially once you develop an affinity for some quality tools. A lot of the youtube guys have videos on what they use they most, but what I've listed should cover most maintenance tasks for your car.

u/gaya2081 · 9 pointsr/keto

I have an awesome body tape measure and started measuring last week. Many of my measurements didn't change, but my hips seem to have lost an inch and my neck a quarter inch. I found my tape measure that I never remember to use This one from Amazon and put it where I wouldn't lose it in my bathroom. It's now part of my Friday measuring routine as I'm in a weight loss bet/challenge with some old high school people and Friday is weigh in day.

I thought at first I was at the wrong spot, but as much as a slide it up and down the measurement never got any larger than the new one unless it hit my butt.

I also stayed keto while sick this week and went out and bought some rebel ice cream - supposedly some of the local Krogers have started carrying it, but I also wanted some. Monkfruit sweetener so I went to the specialty store that has had it for a while. I never understood how people liked halo top, but I really love the mint chip rebel. The cookie dough is just gonna have to sit tight in my freezer. I'm still going to try to not have more than 1 serving a day, and not even every night, but I was shorter than I needed to be on calories the past two nights and had already hit my protein. Today however I am having rather calorie dense lunch and dinner, which I am totally looking forward to both dishes for both meals, but there isn't room today for the ice cream. I might bring the ice cream up to my sisters tomorrow for my nieces birthday party so I don't feel left out. I think she said her husband is doing low carb, so maybe he will want some.

u/jesspete · 9 pointsr/shittyadvice
u/SemenInYourStool · 9 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

+1 on the big shot. This has been my favorite torch, and not having to hold a button the whole time I'm heating my rig has been awesome. Well worth it.

u/hiddenpoint · 9 pointsr/magicTCG

Just use one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G1CUK0/ref=twister_B01M3PL0CR?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

​

I used to have individual deck boxes for all my commander decks and switched them all to this. Fits up to 12 double-sleeved commander decks, or cut back to 11, and you have space for dice/tokens/etc.

u/Its_A_Nice_Day · 9 pointsr/misophonia

If other people are still using headphones maybe it's just an unenforced rule.

>. My friend has told me that since I checked 'yes' on the 'I have a disability' section of my paperwork and didn't fill in a specific reason, I can just strongarm HR with that and tell them they're not legally allowed to demand a reason, but we're a small company and HR is already has this overbearing tone of 'but why don't you just conform? It's not a big deal.' and I don't want to create an adversarial relationship with my work

I think you legally have a right to request accommodations for your disability.

There are also earmuffs like these

If you really believe in the company then the push to do what you need to do is important. They just want you to back down but if its a problem that you wont give up, they may eventually give in.

Also, get documentation of all your requests. Put all your requests on paper so that you have a paper trail for everything. You could even get a payout from this. Remember, HR is there to protect the company, not you.

If it was four months ago you're ok bringing it up again. Honestly I'd just wear the headphones again since others are already doing it. If anyone says anything, which they probably wont, Let them know its for your disability.

u/blue_27 · 9 pointsr/bugout

Personally, I don't like hatchets. Too much room for error. I'd advise the Bahco.

I'd also consider the Sawyer for water filtration, as I think most water purification tablets taste nasty. If you are going to use them, bring some Crystal Light, or sweetened Kool-Aid or Gatorade to kill the taste.

Definitely need a map and compass, otherwise ... how do you know when you've reached your destination?

What are the Sharpies and the tampons for? How long is it supposed to sustain you? Are there any options to procure more food after the 4 days of rat bars run out?

I'd say that it needs work. 5/10? But these things really aren't quantifiable like that. Try it out for a weekend, and objectively analyze the deficiencies.

/$0.02

u/Shabbypenguin · 9 pointsr/xboxone

ouch, blue light is pretty harsh on eyes, especially with it looking like some kind of lamp right there reflecting.

if i were you op id grab soemthing like this https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Waterproof-300LEDs-Flexible-Controller/dp/B00B2F3KDQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1469845526&sr=8-3&keywords=led+strip and use some tape/stickytac and put strips on teh back of your entertainment stand so it looks like teh while thing is glowing.

u/kinenchen · 9 pointsr/ZeroWaste

I'm in the US too. I bought a cheap one online. I made some wipes to dry myself from some old towels sewn to a nylon backing. I'd do it again in a heartbeat and asked for enough to convert my other toilets for Christmas. Luxe Bidet Neo 120 - Self Cleaning Nozzle - Fresh Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (white and white) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JG2DETM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3O9RDbMGTZ3WE

u/gerboise-bleue · 9 pointsr/Quebec

J'ai acheté un attachement de bidet pour ma toilette il y a quelques années pour environ 40$ et c'est vraiment un de mes meilleurs investissements, sans compter l'aspect écologique. C'est un modèle semblable à celui-ci, mais il y a une tonne d'options sur le marché dorénavant, et c'est très simple à installer.

Je vous le recommande fortement, votre péteux vous en sera reconnaissant.

u/KCosmo · 9 pointsr/succulents

I commented about this the other day on /r/houseplants but This is my winter setup, it aint pretty but it was pretty cheap.

IKEA Clamp Lamp
got mine on sale for $7

Socket Extender $2.74

Twin Socket Adapter $2.48

Phillips 6500k CFL Bulbs 4 pack for 10 bucks

Aluminum Roasting Pan Found in any supermarket, got mine for 89 cents

All told it was about $15 for each rig. I've set up 2 so far and they've worked great.

If you want to pretty it up you can swap out the roasting pan for sheet aluminum but you'd have to shape it and cut it so it would involve more tools.

u/Slayner · 9 pointsr/miamidolphins

This computer is something I've wanted to do for a long time, and I actually didn't plan on doing LED lights with this computer. I always thought they were gimmicky (which they kinda are, but dammit I'm bought in)

Anyway, if you have a computer you want lit up, with good software to control different modes, and colors, to shockingly precise detail then check out the nzxt hue+ thing is pretty cool.

When I built this computer I had bought the nzxt aer fans, not knowing that you needed the hue + to use them. So I purchased the hue+ afterwards, and it came with these LED strips, which I used to have the aqua color in the computer. The fans are the orange color.

Because this computer is using 4 LED strips and 8 fans it actually required 2 Hue + units, but as I said as gimmicky as it is, I became a little kid when I saw my computer light up, and I was sold. I bought another and immediately thought it'd be sweet to get some aqua and orange by my computer.

Fins up.

Edit: I made a gif showing one of my favorite modes called covering marquee for the lights. I'm lazy and the gif is shitty but whatever

You can set the lights to flash according to audio and even set it to change colors for the cpu and gpu Temps though. It's really cool.

u/mak13721 · 9 pointsr/succulents

I use these 4 per shelf, 3 shelves (I also have some cacti that were not included in my family photo that live in my cabinet). They are not "grow lamps" per se but they meet the specs needed for growth. This is the cabinet I house my lights in. The lights dont get very hot so I just point a little fan at it during the day. Hopefully that gets you started :)

u/Get_Back_To_Work_Now · 9 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/smoshr · 9 pointsr/nvidia

This should be exactly what you're looking for.

The bottom is magnetized as well, so it will stick to the case surface.

u/wrathfulgrapes · 8 pointsr/running

You have a lot of recommendations to get a headlamp and a reflective vest, I wanted to weigh in on what kind of headlamp you should consider.

Ideally you'd get something lightweight, with enough power to see in front of you and make yourself somewhat visible (although that's more what the reflective vest is for). You should also get something with removable batteries so you could bring spares.

Most of the recommendations on here are for climbing lights by companies like Petzl which are colorful and fun and if you go with one of those you'll probably be fine.

But there are much better options. Those climbing lights (at least the cheaper ones) aren't waterproof, they're splash/sneeze resistant. Might last a while in rain. But IPX8 waterproof would be better. Also they're mostly plastic. The expensive ones are insanely expensive. Here are some cheaper, more bombproof options (all single AA, there are other AAA and 18650 options too but 1xAA makes for a very lightweight package):

Zebralight H53c ($59)
Excellent light, I own it's bigger brother the H600, fantastic build quality all around. 79 grams with battery.

Manker E03H ($35) Another good option. Go for the Nichia LED, much better color accuracy. 103 grams with battery.

[Fenix HL23] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UHZXAYG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kglPBbREJNAKJ) ($35) Reputable brand, good light. Not as waterproof, only IPX6. Still solid. 75 grams with battery.


There are a few more options, especially if you want more (18650) or less (AAA) power and weight. Check out /r/flashlight for more info. Or hit me up. Good luck and stay safe out there.

u/Americonfusion · 8 pointsr/dogecoin

+/u/dogetipbot 500 doge

Get yourself one of these it makes changing diapers much more fun.

u/s_s · 8 pointsr/Ultralight

Philosophy: spend as much money as you can on the best Big 3 you can. Leave worrying about shaving grams with titanium mugs and other small shit until you get bored and you budget is bigger. :)

Big 3: $610

  • Tarptent double rainbow - $275
  • Enlightened equipment - RevX 40 - $180
  • ULA CDT - $135
  • Thremarest Ridgerest SOlite (Torso length) - $20


    Cooking: $24.50

  • Stanco Greasepot: $10
  • Tritan LMF spork: $2
  • Supercat stove: Free
  • Aluminum foil windscreen: free +effort
  • Reflectix pot cozy: $10 + effort
  • Bic mini: $0.50
  • Waterbottles: 2x 1L Kroger-brand generic smart water bottles: $2


    First Aid: $32

  • Scentless Zinc oxide creme: $5
  • Moleskins: $2
  • Dr. Bronners unscented baby-mild soap: $5
  • Band-aids: free
  • Ducktape: free
  • ibuprofen: free
  • Imodium: free
  • 100% DEET: $5
  • sunscreen: free
  • Aqua Mira tablets: $15

    Clothing: $64

  • baseball cap: free
  • bandana: free
  • synthetic t-shirt from walmart: $5
  • dri-ducks 100 wt fleece $32
  • nylon gym shorts: free
  • running shoes: free
  • socks (2 pair): $27
  • garbage bag poncho: free

    Other: $58

  • headlamp: $35
  • leatherman squirt: $23

    Total: $788.50

    base weight : ~10lbs
u/Its_Wiki · 8 pointsr/airsoft

Pyramex I-Force for your eyes


OneTigris Mask for your face. Although a normal mask will work, the OneTigris is more comfortable and basically what everybody has started wearing

Edit: i messed up the links somehow

u/Smokadabowla · 8 pointsr/Dabs

https://www.amazon.com/Blazer-GT8000-Shot-Butane-Torch/dp/B000NCZU0A
been using mine many times a day for almost 2 years.

u/Genital-Jamboree · 8 pointsr/trees

I believe it's a Blazer GT8000 Big Shot Butane torch. The pic doesn't have any markings on it but it looks very similar to the Big Shot. You can buy it on Amazon here for $100. Torch works very well and is refillable with butane gas.

u/tazemanian-devil · 8 pointsr/exjw

You're going to need the following two items if you watch these.


Yeah, yer gonna want to heat that poker up real good with that there torch so you can effectively poke your eyes out.

u/JasterMereel42 · 8 pointsr/Workbenches

I use the Stanley 10 bin and 25 bin trays. They're also great for my loose Lego collection so I have a few spares and pull one for whenever I need one in the garage or in the house.

This isn't a perfect solution though. I had to build a rack in order to store all of these containers. Also, it is a 2 step process to get anything out: 1) remove the tray from the rack and 2) open the container to get what I need. I'm fine with this though because it is ultra portable and the 2 step method isn't too much of a hinderance. Also, this way the storage density is pretty high and I can keep a lot of stuff in a small space.

u/RiverVan · 8 pointsr/vandwellers

Many vandwellers use the Portable Mr. Buddy heater:

  • Approved for indoor/outdoor use; clean-burning; nearly 100-percent efficient

  • Auto shut-off if tipped over, if pilot light goes out, or if detects low oxygen levels

    https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU

    (Also available at Walmart stores and Cabela's)

    It's a good idea to have a carbon monoxide (don't confuse this with dioxide) detector in your van and to leave your windows open a bit when the heater is being used.

u/kewee_ · 7 pointsr/ECE

This or that

Both are excellent entry-level products with proven track-record and replacement parts are common and cheap. They will have a hard time melting pure tin solder however, but you must be masochistic to use that crap IMO. Just stick to eutectic solder.

u/david4500 · 7 pointsr/OpenPV

Some videos on soldering:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIT4ra6Mo0s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5Sb21qbpEQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYz5nIHH0iY

In addition to the videos from /u/analog-dan https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCt3W-LdbWcGFSddiOtl1bWQ/videos, you can also watch the videos from /u/advicevice https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChbLnX8JcsN9bH4BNgJZ6wA/videos

Epoxy: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BBV46/

Solder I'd recommend: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJX6/

Additional paste flux: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00425FUW2/

Do you have a soldering station/iron? If so which one, if not would recommend the following: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWUFVY8/

Need anything else just ask

u/youremyfather · 7 pointsr/SkincareAddiction

Thanks! it's actually just some LED strips from Amazon....the bulbs are probably better tbh. These strips come equipped with double sided sticky tape so you can place them anywhere, but the heat from the lights melted the stickyness on mine so now I just have them hanging 🤷🏼‍♀️🤷🏼‍♀️

u/sidoh · 7 pointsr/homeautomation

There are a lot of parameters you're leaving unspecified. Do you want white, RGB, or RGBW strips?

Here's an RGB strip for $15.88.

You'll also need a controller. I'm not sure anything other than Phillips Hue works with Alexa out of the box. If you don't wanna do anything fiddly, you'll probably just wanna get Hue, which is gonna run you north of $100 after you get the hub.

If you're willing to do some hacking, I reverse-engineered the TCP API for this controller. Code is here:

https://github.com/sidoh/ledenet_api

Also built a REST gateway around it here:

https://github.com/sidoh/ha_gateway

You could probably integrate this API with the alexa HA bridge for a direct Alexa integration.

I have some instructions for integrating this controller with SmartThings on my blog.

u/enjoilife3 · 7 pointsr/AskWomen

Luxe Bidet Neo 120 - Self Cleaning Nozzle - Fresh Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (white and white) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00JG2DETM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gh8Yzb71WGN90

It was more than $30 though apparently.

u/TROLO_ · 7 pointsr/videos

You don't need to win the lottery to have a bidet. I got one of these for $40 a couple years ago and my life his improved significantly. You're living like a peasant cleaning your ass with paper.

u/cambamkun · 7 pointsr/airsoft

Gun:
G&G CM16 is solid. It has rails, is pretty light, and is suitable for CQB. Get him a couple of hi-cap magazines, 9.6v butterfly battery and smart charger to go with it and he's set gun wise.

Eye and Face pro:
I really like my Pyramex I-Force, never fog, low-profile, and meet the ANZI impact requirements so his eyes will be safe. The OneTigris mesh mask is really comfortable and will protect his face and more importantly his teeth. There are some that clip onto FAST and BMP helmets as well. Small version and one with ear-pro attached.

Honestly if he holds the barrel, there's no need to spend money on a grip, you can always go back and buy it later if he wants it. Same goes for the other equipment and attachments, stick with the basics and make sure he likes it before heavily investing.
A lot of people stand by Just Airsoft Ammo for BBs. Only use .2g BBs at the minimum. .12s and cheap BBs will mess up the gun's internals and may shatter on impact, potentially seriously injuring the person who was shot.

u/PresentFault · 7 pointsr/DIY

Not op but 99% sure it’s these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HBT3BVM/. I have a set of the same ones.

u/jquagga · 7 pointsr/flashlight

I’d scale back the frequency now and potentially the prize amount later (cap it). While we greatly appreciate it, I don’t want you to suffer for our prizes.

That said, if the random number generate favors me, I’d like a Zebralight H53c. I’ve determined I have hard preferences for 4000-4500K, high CRI and regulated lights. I have a wowtac and a sofirn which are 5000K and they need to go. My existing SC53c is a favorite. :-).

u/infamous-spaceman · 7 pointsr/educationalgifs

For my money I'd take a folding saw over a pocket chainsaw any day. The chainsaws take a lot more work to use, and there are a lot more potential points of failure. Also at least in regards to that chainsaw, it's heavier than a folding saw. The biggest downside is price, although this one is on sale right now and isn't that pricey: https://www.amazon.com/Bahco-396-LAP-Laplander-Folding-Inch/dp/B0001IX7OW

You can't go wrong with the Laplander, it's pretty much the standard for folding saws.

u/prepperdoc · 7 pointsr/preppers

I actually don't carry a hatchet, I carry a folding saw and a heavy duty knife. I plan on batoning with the knife if I need to split things.

Bahco 396-LAP Laplander Folding Saw, 7-1/2 -Inch Blade, 7 TPI

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001IX7OW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pLeUzbTR79YD2

u/DrTom · 7 pointsr/vandwellers

You want a Mr Heater Buddy, man. Easy to use, safe, cheap to run, and it will keep you warm in a space much bigger than a van. Highly recommended.

EDIT: for safety, make sure you install a carbon monoxide detector.

u/feistypenguin · 7 pointsr/preppers

I would recommend saving up $50, and buying a
Portable Buddy heater when it goes on sale. They are made for indoor use, and have safety shutoffs for low volume or getting knocked over. For another $10, you can buy an adapter hose that lets it use the 20lb "grill" propane tanks.

The 1lb "camping" bottles will last 3-5 hours, and the 20lb tanks will last several days straight (or a week, if you only use the heat a few hours per day).

u/Karnblack · 6 pointsr/EDH

I haven't had an issue with these deck boxes either and I've kept some decks in them for almost 10 years. If I end up dropping one and cracking it I'm only out a couple of bucks rather than $10+.

I transport up to 12 decks in the Stanley Organizer (https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B001G1CUK0) like so: Decks for Magic Fest Las Vegas https://imgur.com/a/Q65Iqvz

If I only want to take up to 4 decks those clear plastic deck boxes easily fit into the Ultimate Guard Arkhive: https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Guard-UGD10767-Arkhive-Standard/dp/B079T8J6V1

u/quackor_sg · 6 pointsr/EDH

I bought two of the 10-compartment versions so I can have all deck-sized trays in one box, but upon receiving it I noticed you can actually fit the nice crystal commander boxes in place of the yellow compartments, so you should be fine just buying one and replacing the double-size trays with those.

u/LucanDesmond · 6 pointsr/EDH

Everyone has already made great suggestions for your current collection so I'm just going to add a suggestion for the future if your collections expands. I have 22 decks. For a collection of that size, all those individual boxes are a pain, get these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G1CUK0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Toastyparty · 6 pointsr/pcmasterrace

this will do it...

and god fucking dammit really? I received it yesterday and it went on sale today. FAK!!!! well good for anyone here looking for one.

u/C_V_Butcher · 6 pointsr/razer

No it's not. The base Hue+ is $59.99 and comes with 4 strips. The Extension kit is $20.99 for 2 more strips. That's vs The Chroma Kit at $79.99 that comes with 2 strips and then 2 extra strips are $29.99. So that's $59.99 for a Hue+ with 4 strips or $109.98 for a Chroma+Extension to get 4 strips.

Now the upswing is Synapse is a lot more reliable than the CAM software that runs Hue+, which is a dumpster fire.

u/magicfatgrl · 6 pointsr/houseplants

Century Indoor 24-Hour Mechanical Outlet Timer, 3 Prong, 2-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LPSGBZS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

(Pack of 6) Barrina LED T5 Integrated Single Fixture, 4FT, 2200lm, 6500K (Super Bright White), 20W, Utility Shop Light, Ceiling and Under Cabinet Light, Corded electric with built-in ON/OFF switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HBT3BVM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Hgrope 5W LED Grow Light Desk Lamp Clamp Flexible Neck for Hydroponic and Indoor Plants https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CVKWZH3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7ZEaBbZSW8ASJ


this last one isn't the exact red/blue lights i have but it looks better than mine hahaha

u/ValElTech · 6 pointsr/buildapc

Can you get a GPU bracket? Avoid the one you screw at the back of the case but more like that one: https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Accessory-Universal-Adjustable/dp/B01IQCBKOI/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=gpu+support&qid=1563596307&s=gateway&sr=8-4

If its weight related it will help

u/howImetyoursquirrel · 6 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Like everyone else said, don't store stuff in your case. If you really want to prop the GPU up to prevent sag then buy a GPU holder on Amazon, I even found you the link to one https://www.amazon.com/MasterAccessory-Universal-VGA-Holder-MCA-0005-KUH00/dp/B01IQCBKOI. MSI makes one as well

u/lpcxwm · 6 pointsr/flashlight

Skip the bucket, this time I'll go for a sick horse.

https://www.amazon.com/Zebralight-H53c-Headlamp-Neutral-White/dp/B071ZTPLPD/

u/Babylon4All · 6 pointsr/livesound

Cable


  • If you're stateside, Anixter is our main supplier since they have branches all across the country. However we use several local vendors as well, NedCo in Las Vegas, Pacific Radio in Los Angeles, etc.


  • EWI looks fine, I haven't ever worked with it personally, but looking at their site it looks fine.


  • My company personally uses Belden whenever possible for installations and for inside racks. For touring and studio a mixture of Mogami and Canare for microphone, instrument cable etc. For speaker cable I personally prefer CCI/Coleman cables. I've seen those jackets take extreme beatings in all environments and all sorts of machinery run over them.

    For your question about 3.5mm to TS, you really just need any audio rated cable and what it's purpose is. For these I personally find it easier to purchase a stereo 3.5mm and solder on the connector I need; RCA, TS, XLR, etc.


  • When looking you should shop around multiple vendors and get pricing for various cables at each location. See how their pricing and shipping differ.


  • Most 22-26awg signal cable will use foil due to it's small size. Outside of that should be a twisted dump wire. Solid dump wires I've found are not the best for audio as they break easily if a cable is over extended/bent too far. For microphone, as close to 100% coverage over your other pairs is ideal. Any reputable cable manufacturer will provide this information.


  • Microphone cable is the same cable as instrument cable. The only difference is there is an extra wire. A balanced XLR will have a dump wire/shield, a hot, and a neutral. An instrument cable only has the dump wire/shield and the neutral generally. The only real thing to look for is the cable's resistance. Digital RCA should be around 75ohms, while Analog RCA is around 20-40. Same for DMX and Audio, DMX looks the same, but is around 110ohms, whereas audio cables will be around that 20-40ohms. This is done to protect the digital transmission of their square waves more, whereas audio doesn't need to and is a sine wave.

    Solder

  • Each solder will have a different melting point, another key thing is to look at the melting point of the wires insulation/jacket. Most Lead based solders will have a melting range of 350-450°F. Generally the silver solder will melt around 1,145°F, this is known as easy silver solder, as it is only around 56% pure, hard flow silver solder is closer to 1,375°F. What you'll typically find/use is 70/30 or 60/40 which should be around 350-375°F range. Why some people prefer Silver Solder is for clarity, it has less imperfections that disrupt the flow of the electrons. However your usual 70/30 or 60/40 is just fine as well, the majority of cables you'll work with have been made with this type of solder. One key thing to look for is that the solder you have contains a Flux Resin Core. This helps the solder flow easier and bond to other metals easier.


  • Watch videos on youtube, make sure you have a decent Iron [I personally prefer Hakko] the Digital FX888D is a great inexpensive soldering station for beginners. The next thing to do is to practice. Practice, practice, practice. Cut off a few feet of wire and go at it, practice tinning and terminating over and over again. Another thing is to practice undoing a connection. To do this you'll want to put your tip on the joint, and then add solder with a flux resin core. Once solder melts, its melting point goes up in temperature, the flux and resin help to lower that back down to make it flow faster/easier. Then, if you don't have a solder sucker, just pull the wire out of the connection point and while the solder is still flowing tap it out onto a safe surface. This will remove the excess solder but will still make it tinned, ready for your next wire. Key point clean your tip! If your iron didn't come with a gold foil cleaner, get one, they're around $5-25 and worth every penny, here's a $5 one on Amazon. This will clean all the impurities off of your iron and make soldering easier and cleaner. If you're in a pinch and don't have one, a wet paper towel/cloth works. You want it to be wet enough that if you squeeze it with some good force water will come out of it steadily, but not so much water that it pools out when you press your iron against it.

  • A station heats up very quickly, so if you have a shop, those are ideal. Having it well lit and ventilated is key, the fumes can be nasty. Additionally have the right tip on your iron for the job is key. For example, a tip meant to do 26awg signal probably isn't the best suited for then doing 10awg lines.


  • Google, sometimes after a long day my mind blanks when making adapters for whatever I'm doing, and I just do a quick google image search. Otherwise, if you want it in book form, along with basically everything you'd need to know about the basics of tech, The Backstage Handbook.


  • You should have the following,
    Stereo RCA to XLR Male

    Stereo RCA to RCA

    Male XLR to RCA

    Female XLR to RCA

    EP6 to NL4 and NL8, going both ways, ie One side Male Neutrik to Female EP6, and then vice-versa.

    1 Male to 2 Female XLR

    Then just a slew of various connectors to make anything that may arise.


  • Amazon, Anixter, any electronics specialty store will have shrink tube. Be sure to check out how much it'll shrink when heated up, so shrink more than others. How to make them super clean is all up to how meticulous you are. Make sure you have a nice clean strip of the wire, and that your distance for stripping back the otuer jacket, and each wire's inner jackets is proportional to the connectors strain relief. You'll also want to make sure you sex your wire, ie, male XLR should go, Ground, Hot, Neutral when stripped Left to Right. Female XLR should start with the Neutral, then go Hot, then Ground. This will make for a cleaner look when it may be opened up, and less of a hassle when aligning the wires for soldering. For the actual soldering part you'll want to tin both your wire, and the solder point. Solder will flow to where it's hottest. By tinning these you are prepping the points to connect. You'll use less solder, and it will take less time. Once both sides are tinned, put the tip of your iron at a contact point of both the wire and the connector. Then wait a good 2-3 seconds and apply some solder. you won't need much. If you did it right the solder will melt almost instantly and then hold the iron there for another 1-3 seconds and both the solder on the wire and connector will now pool and flatten down naturally from gravity with the solder you just added. Pull your wand away and let it cool for a second or two before you let go of the wire. Shrink tube should be necessary in most XLR, TRS, RCA, NL4, connectors, but if you feel so inclined, then by all means do it. However, for this I recommend using a clear shrink tube. This will make it easy to check if something at the solder point is bad when troubleshooting a cable. For other cables such as an EP6 connector, I will always, ALWAYS recommend use of shrink tubing.


  • Labeling depends on the context. For instals in say an audio rack, our typical scheme is U101-A, U101-B, U102-A, the U### = Rack unit number, the letter A thru B, C, D etx refers to the amp channel. For these I typically use 3/8 or 1/2 White or Yellow shrink tube labes with our Rhino Labeler. We do not however shrink them, this is done for service purposes. Depending on your angle when servicing you may not be able to read the label once shrunk, but if left unshrunk you can turn it so it can be read from wherever you are. Note, you should label both ends of the cable the EXACT same. For touring and rental you should put your name/company's info on a label of some sort and then place a piece of clear shrink tube over that. You want to make sure about 1/2-1" of the clear shrink tube carriers over the edges of your label. This will protect your label longer than if they're almost exactly the same length. It's also not a bad habit to run a piece of colored tape, label, whatever under the clear shrink tube on both ends to distinguish cable length. Every company has a different method, but the one I use is the rainbow.

    Red - 5ft

    Orange - 10ft

    Yellow - 15ft

    Green - 25ft

    Blue - 50ft

    Purple - 100ft

    White - 200+, one band =200, two bands = 300.

    Hopefully this helps you in some way, let me know if you have any other questions or follow-up to any of these responses! edits Grammar, phrasing, some links to specific items, etc.
u/Teerlys · 6 pointsr/preppers

/u/SpartanUp247 , I'm breaking this up so it's not a mega post.

Insofar as other as other supplies go... well, I could write on that for way longer than I'm going to tonight. I'll try to give a short essential list though.

  • Flashlights and ample batteries. Preferably including some headlamps and lantern style lights. Candles as well.

  • An emergency radio, preferably with a hand crank + solar rechargeable battery.

  • Some FRS radio's in the event that cell phones die or coverage is sparse.

  • Propane tanks and the ability to use them for cooking. Usually that will mean a portable burner and high pressure hose. There are other cooking options out there as well, such as Sterno, so grab whatever your situation/funding allows for.

  • Appropriate weather gear. That means cold weather sleeping bags for winter and methods to cope with heat like an Arctic Tie. Maybe a propane heater as well.

  • Don't forget sanitation. A 5 gallon toilet bucket is a good investment. Then stock up on thick garbage bags, baking soda/cat litter, and a mega sized bottle of hand sanitizer.

  • Make sure you have the basics of first aid supplies covered. Enough stuff to treat and wrap wounds, protect blisters, protect from the sun, things like that.

  • Have whatever tools you think you might need for whatever you're prepping for. Things like a wrench to turn off the gas in your house that lives near the gas meter. For people in hurricane areas, an axe to chop through a roof to evade rising waters. Definitely multiple fire extinguishers/fire blankets. Things of that nature.

  • And of course, a gun and training on how to use it is always a smart call.

    --------------------------------

    Bug out bags are cool and a good idea/place to get started, but realistically if you are forced to sincerely grab that bag and run out of the door with nothing else because things are just that screwed, you are likely pretty hosed. Chances are you'll have time to pack the car in most situations, so the best way to go is to plan on bugging in first and foremost. No point in turning yourself into a refugee if you don't need to. If you're still wanting to start with a bugout bag... see the next post for my recommendation for a cheap startup kit.
u/crossborder_commuter · 6 pointsr/EDC

So this is what I have with me usually when going to work. Which is a 1h journey by high speed train, crossing an international border.

  • The large knife is a Spyderco Native.
  • And there is another Spyderco hiding in there too.
  • The tiny flashlight is a Lenser K1
  • The small flashlight is, I think, a Fenix
  • 16 GB Thumbdrive
  • iPhone 5S
  • Beyerdynamic iDX 160 iE earbuds
  • eVic Supreme eCigarette with a Nautilus Aspire tank
  • A Schneider eXtra Document Pigment Pen
  • A lightning cable
  • Victorinox SwissTool Spirit III
  • CRKT Eat N Tool
  • Leatherman Squirt PS4
  • A Victorinox quick-release key ring, released
  • NiteIze key holder, keys, car key
  • Bellroy Wallet
  • Plasters Travel Kit
  • Passport
  • Maxpedition Pouch (and another, the MaxPedition EDC not shown)

    Link to highres picture What addition would compliment this EDC?
u/thompssc · 6 pointsr/EDC

Descriptions with links

  1. Moleskin mini-notebook.

  2. Zebra F-301 Bold: Notebook and pen get dropped into my shirt pocket. On weekends, whether they come along is completely dependent on whether my shirt has a shirt pocket.

  3. Seiko 5 SNK793: Just got this last week actually, but I really like it. I had a Hamilton Jazzmaster before and, while a quality piece and I love the style, the case was just too big/heavy for my liking. I found myself wearing my Timex weekender on a NATO strap more and more. This has a very similar case size, although slightly thicker/heavier due to automatic movement. Something classy/understated enough for work.

  4. Maratac Copper AAA: I really love this thing. This is not the newest version (rev 3), so it only has low/high, but that's all I really need. Feels very solidly made, I have dropped it numerous times and it has nary a mark. Despite the exterior being solid copper, it isn’t as heavy as I thought it would be and I never even notice it in my pocket, even in dress pants. I leave the clip on so I can set it on my desk/counter and not have it roll off, but often don’t bother to clip it to my pocket. Sometimes I’ll clip it to my coin pocket in jeans but usually just leave it in my right pocket with my keys. I don’t know what to say other than that I really love this thing.

  5. Leatherman Squirt ps4: Very small, disappears into my pocket. Even in dress pants at work, I don't feel this weighing them down at all.

  6. Keysmart with 2 apartment keys: The rivets tend to come loose, which is a little annoying. May throw some Loctite or something on the threads to keep them be. Otherwise, I like it.

  7. Nexus 4: Love this phone. No intention of getting rid of it anytime soon. Unless they come out with a phone that will bake me cookies or dispense coffee, the only reason I'll move on is that this one dies.

  8. SOG Fielder: SOG Fielder. Just like guns, black means you obviously want to kill people but any kind of wood stock/handle means you probably just have it for utility. /s I actually really like this knife. Very classy, feels good in the hand, good weight. I get lots of compliments on it.

  9. Crappy wallet from Wal-mart or something

  10. Springfield Xds 3.3 in 9mm in a Crossbreed minituck
  • Love this pistol. Fun to shoot at the range and feels great in the hand. Well built, well balanced. So far, nearly 2k rounds in, no FTFs, no jams, no light strikes, nada. Trigger is a little stiff, but that kind of comes with the territory for a gun designed for CCW. I ordered the PRP trigger kit to lighten it a bit. Also, I’m probably going to have night sights installed soon. Nothing wrong with the stock ones, I just want night sights :).

    Minituck holster is great. I hiked 10 miles in the White Mountains last weekend and hardly noticed this setup at all. Will most likely go with Crossbreed for future holsters. I can successfully tuck in a shirt around the gun if need be with this one. (I do not carry at work because my employer does not allow it)
u/TheStuffle · 6 pointsr/EDC

A small Multitool, check these out.

Leatherman PS4 Squirt <-- I have one of these, it's about the same size than a tube of chapstick.

Leatherman S2 Juice

u/antiproton · 6 pointsr/woodworking

Don't underestimate the dust. MDF creates a cloud of very fine particles. If there's no wind, it could be hanging there in your face even when your done cutting.

I'm prone to sinus infections. I wear a respirator the whole time I'm working with MDF, from the first cut until I finish sweeping the floor at the end of the day.

u/[deleted] · 6 pointsr/LifeProTips

You could have saved a lot of money and had even better noise reduction by just buying ear muffs w/ ear protection. Something like this - http://www.amazon.com/3M-Peltor-Optime-Earmuff-H10A/dp/B00009LI4K. Much better LPT...

u/faultysynapse · 6 pointsr/Bushcraft

Oh fun! $500 is a good amount to work with. I am going to assume he has absolutely nothing as you said full kit.

This folding saw is just awesome, and on sale! I've had one for many years. About $22.

This Knife is a lot more heavy duty than the Moras people will inevitably recommend (not that there is anything wrong with them). It's also a lot more expensive. I think it would make a nice gift. Also on sale. $104.

A pot $15.

A Silnylon tarp $63.

Gotta have paracord $10

There are a lot of firesteels out there but this one was uber cheap and looks just like the one I've had for years. >$2.

I would HIGHLY recommend a small forest of Hultafors, Wetterlings, or Gransfors Bruks make. I couldn't find a good link for them on Amazon. They'll be about $150

All told that list(including and axe) is about $360 before tax and shipping) Obviously a pack to put it would top it all off and bring you pretty close to $500 mark. It's just too personal a choice and I can't begin recommend one.

What stuff if any does he have already? A blanket or sleeping bag could be a good choice. A small alcohol stove too.



u/Woltz_Sandage · 6 pointsr/Bushcraft

So for shelter, I'd suggest this tarp. I also suggest checking out the forum that the tarp is from (www.bushcraftusa.com) because it's a forum all about bushcraft but has sub forums in ultralight and backpacking. The tarp is https://bushcraftoutfitters.com/coyote-tarp-10x10/ which is priced at $67. The reason I suggest this is because this tarp specifically, there's lots of way's to set it up. Check out this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RxtHJm51NPY&t=


So for cooking, it's pretty simple. This video will show you what most bushcrafters use and the links that follow are the two items. I use it myself and in fact have two sets because of how much I enjoy it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00gwQ4z_nQQ&t and the following links for the items. https://www.walmart.com/search/?query=Ozark%20Trail%2018-Ounce%20Stainless%20Steel%20Cup
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Stanley-Adventure-Camp-Cook-Set/16784406
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ozark-Trail-9-5-Round-Frying-Pan/49332895


Hammocks are over rated, sleeping pads are a mess to figure out, get a cot. In fact, get this cot. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Outdoor-Super-Ultralight-Portable-Folding-Aluminium-alloy-Cot-Camping-Tent-Bed/112355265955?hash=item1a28e54da3:g:-PUAAOSwTM5Y365i:rk:2:pf:0


And now you need a knife, saw, and hatchet right? Well let's tackle all three.
https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Companion-Stainless-4-1-Inch-Military/dp/B004ZAIXSC?ref_=w_bl_hsx_s_sp_web_6501052011
https://www.amazon.com/Bahco-396-LAP-Laplander-Folding-Inch/dp/B0001IX7OW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540606867&sr=8-1&keywords=Bacho+Laplander
https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-X7-Hatchet-Inch-378501-1002/dp/B0002YTO7E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1540607032&sr=8-2&keywords=Fiskars+X7+Hatchet+14+Inch%2C+378501-1002
And as a added bonus here's a fire steel.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-x-2-5-Drilled-Ferrocerium-Ferro-Rod-Steel-Flint-Fire-Starter-w-Lanyard-Hole/131485475489?hash=item1e9d2522a1:rk:4:pf:0


And finally to end it all, we have a sleeping bag. This one is well known in the world. Kelty Cosmic 20 Degree. It's a dry down bag which means it's made of down that can handle some moisture but still keep you warm. It's rated for 20 degree's. I'll post the same bag as well but is rated for 0 degrees'. It'll be more expensive but it'll let you stay warm during the winter.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kelty-Cosmic-20-Sleeping-Bag-20-Degree-Down/253894865275?epid=1152349824&hash=item3b1d50317b:m:mFpUvLXnvtZZETXdugDHwvw:rk:2:pf:0

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kelty-Cosmic-0-Sleeping-Bag-0-Degree-Down/253375355468?epid=28012067594&hash=item3afe591a4c:m:mCrEnOYV72CJ257e08pGR4Q:rk:2:pf:0


Check the sizes of the sleeping bag before you buy.


Also a pack, this one works as two in one. Really nice for a 60L https://outdoorvitals.com/products/rhyolite-60l-lightweight-internal-frame-backpack1
________________________________________

If you do plan on doing any winter camping, I'd edit a few things. One of them is I'd get the 0 Degree sleeping bag posted. Instead of the tarp I'd get this pup tent. https://www.ebay.com/itm/USGI-Military-Issue-2-Man-Canvas-PUP-TENT-w-Poles-Stakes-Complete-VGC/392111853275?hash=item5b4bb00edb:g:JEQAAOSw~jJarA5E:rk:1:pf:0 Which comes with poles and stakes. I normally toss the poles and get some branches outside. I get four branches and make a bipod that I tie off on either end. That gives me more room inside the tent and less weight I have to carry on my person.


I'd still get the cot but I'd also include Thermarest Z-Lite sleeping pad to put on top of it https://www.ebay.com/itm/Therm-a-Rest-Z-Lite-Sol-Ultralight-Foam-Backpacking-Mattress/132801349129?epid=1900010560&hash=item1eeb93c609:rk:1:pf:0 as well as one of those super heavy duty emergency blankets. It's a reflective blanket but it's also the same thickness as some of those heat reflectors you use for a car windshield. Not those flimsy things you see "survivalists" use. Those placed on the cot, with that zero degree bag, and that shelter works amazingly. Just don't throw a heavy blanket on the sleeping bag and don't wear a lot of clothes in it either. That'll make everything for naught.
______________________________________
So with everything listed, the pack, cooking stuff, tools, cot, sleeping bag, and either the canvas shelter or tap, you'd be looking at around $560 assuming you got the 0 Degree Sleeping Bag instead of the 20 Degree. Which you really should. A 0 Degree is much better in my case.


Also if you do get a down sleeping bag, NEVER STORE IT IN THE COMPRESSED STATE!!! Always store it someplace with it out of it's bag. If you keep it compressed 24/7 until you use it, you'll destroy the down.

u/ZegoggleZeydonothing · 5 pointsr/cosplay

Thats the wrong type of mask. It does nothing for bondo fumes. That mask is just for harmless dust particles. What you need is a respirator with some sort of organics filter that will keep from breathing in the volatile solvents.

Something like this.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Paint-Project-Respirator-Medium/dp/B00004Z4EB/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1426795178&sr=8-2&keywords=3m+respirator

u/FLOCKA · 5 pointsr/modelmakers

This is the respirator I use

the cartridges last a long time and refills are cheap.

As for your general question, I occasionally spray lacquers (Mr. Color) in my basement workshop with no booth. Doing that without a respirator and gloves would be a recipe for trouble, because that stuff is highly toxic

u/CmdrSquirrel · 5 pointsr/guns

See disclaimer.

These are my favorite plugs I've tried.

These are very effective and cheap, but they're not conducive to rifle shooting because it'll kill your cheek weld.

u/tikitravels · 5 pointsr/BDSMcommunity

I'm going to go a different direction then actual sounds. Get a pair of these:

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Peltor-H10A-Optime-Earmuff/dp/B00009LI4K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1396919265&sr=8-4&keywords=peltor

and you will be shocked at how much they cut out. Quite frankly, in a quiet room she will hear her own breathing, etc. For an idea, trying plugging your ears (really pushing them in) and then humming or breathing or talking and you'll see what I mean. They have this type of thing at Home Depot, etc. as well.

u/Bilbo_Fraggins · 5 pointsr/EatCheapAndHealthy

Buy this and experience your morning blending 30db quieter.

u/deluseru · 5 pointsr/Tools

I totally understand, in that case here are some things.

If you don't already have a set of 1/4" impact bits I highly recommend the Makita impact gold series, three options from $15-$30. Good strong bits good for everything not just impact drivers.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-Impact-Gold-Drive-Bit-Set-40-Piece-B-65383/305513416

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-Impact-Gold-Steel-Driver-Bit-Set-26-Piece-B-46919/206284602

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-Impact-GOLD-Driver-Bit-Set-38-Piece-B-52370/207104796

Their 1/2" and 3/8" wobble adapters are nice, you can get them by themselves, or in a pack with standard or metric impact sockets. $4-$5 by themselves or $15 with the sockets.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-Impact-GOLD-1-2-in-15-Degree-Tilt-Socket-Adapter-B-35081/203696909

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-Impact-GOLD-3-8-in-15-Degree-Tilt-Socket-Adapter-B-35075/203696899

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-Impact-GOLD-3-8-in-6-Point-Fractional-Standard-Impact-Socket-Set-with-15-Degree-Tilt-Socket-Adapter-9-Pieces-B-34833/203612037

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-Impact-GOLD-3-8-in-6-Point-Metric-Impact-Socket-Set-with-15-Tilt-Socket-Adapter-9-Piece-B-49862/206284603

This Makita Impact GOLD Ultra-Magnetic Torsion Insert Bit Holder is also excellent. $5

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-Impact-GOLD-Ultra-Magnetic-Torsion-Insert-Bit-Holder-B-35097/203696915

How are you set for razor knives? The Milwaukee FASTBACK Compact is my daily and I love it. It does have one flaw, if you hold the blade section in a certain way for detail cutting you can depress the blade release. But once you get used to it it has not been a problem for me. $9

They have a special buy going in my area for the Fastback Flip, Fastback Compact Flip, and 50 blades for $15.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-FASTBACK-Compact-Flip-Utility-Knife-48-22-1906/206994464

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-Fastback-Flip-Utility-Knife-Set-with-Utility-Blades-50-Pack-48-22-1901J/302283894

How about pliers. I love these tiny Cobras, they were part of my EDC at my last job. $26

https://www.homedepot.com/p/KNIPEX-Heavy-Duty-Forged-Steel-5-in-Mini-Cobra-Pliers-with-61-HRC-Teeth-87-01-125-SBA/203202210

6" models only $1 more. $27

https://www.homedepot.com/p/KNIPEX-Heavy-Duty-Forged-Steel-6-in-Mini-Cobra-Pliers-with-61-HRC-Teeth-87-01-150/100668977

7" only another $1. $28

https://www.homedepot.com/p/KNIPEX-Heavy-Duty-Forged-Steel-7-in-Cobra-Pliers-with-61-HRC-Teeth-87-01-180/100668967

Very very tough diagonal cutters. $35

https://www.homedepot.com/p/KNIPEX-Heavy-Duty-Forged-Steel-10-in-High-Leverage-Diagonal-Cutters-with-64-HRC-Cutting-Edge-74-01-250/100668970

For when you need a bit more oomph than your standard cutters, Mini bolt cutters. $44

https://www.homedepot.com/p/KNIPEX-8-in-Cobolt-Lever-Action-Compact-Bolt-Cutter-64-HRC-Forged-Steel-71-01-200/100668975

The classic Swedish style pipe wrench, always make for an interesting conversation piece. $46

https://www.homedepot.com/p/KNIPEX-12-in-Heavy-Duty-Pipe-Wrench-83-10-010/205944412

How are you set for PPE? I wear this respirator for 8 hours a day 5 days a week and I love it, after a few minutes you forget your even wearing it. And its super easy to just un-latch to speak to people then pop it back on.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Medium-Paint-Project-Respirator-with-Quick-Latch-Mask-6502QLPA1-A-NA/207061064

Without filters at amazon. $19

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IF7RCU6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Home depot does not sell the filters I use, but amazon does. $11

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009POHH94/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are only particulate filters so if you do a lot of painting the set from home depot with the VOC filters would be better.

For hearing protection I had been using a set of 3M Peltor Optime 105's until I upgraded recently to a combo of 3M Peltor WS Alert XP's and 3M Peltor CH-5 High Attenuation Headset. The 105's offer extremely good protection for the money.

3M Peltor Optime 105 $20

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Earmuff-Protectors-Hearing-Protection/dp/B00009LI4K

If there are any specific categories of tools you would like a recommendation on let me know.

u/PrionBacon · 5 pointsr/buildapc

Headset on shoulders = Sponsor's headset.

Headset worn = 3M Earmuffs to block out environment sounds + earplugs

EDIT: Changed Headset worn.

u/britishben · 5 pointsr/guns

I like the Peltor H10As. Passive, but cheap and effective. If I'm shooting something loud I'll double up with cheap foam earplugs underneath, can't hear a thing then.

Edit: Just wanted to point out, these Peltors block out 29dB, whereas the active ones ruertar recommends only block out 20dB for 6x the price.

u/grnhgh · 5 pointsr/gaming

Depends on what you think is cheap. Maybe 10-20 bucks at a hardware store, or 5-20 bucks online. I'm not sure, I bought mine a long time ago. Search for "noise reduction ear muffs", or here is an Amazon page with some.

Also, it seems like gun users use these things, so you may find some where guns are sold.

u/jesuswithoutabeard · 5 pointsr/Survival

I have one of THESE guys. It stays sharp and works wonders for the weight. Takes a bit longer to get through hardwood because of the length, but it's a nice workout so all's good in my book.

TL;DR: I have a giant right bicep because of this saw.

u/hecticlorax · 5 pointsr/WildernessBackpacking

ESEE-3 is the fixed blade knife I bring backpacking and its all i've ever needed. carrying a folding saw on top of that is all you would ever need for faster processing of wood. the two items below are less than half a lb (~7.2 oz)

http://www.amazon.com/ESEE-Knives-ESEE-3MIL-P-Military-Micarta/dp/B004DTREPI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453321931&sr=8-1&keywords=esee-3

http://www.amazon.com/Bahco-396-LAP-Laplander-Folding-9-Inch/dp/B0001IX7OW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1453321958&sr=8-3&keywords=folding+saw

u/ArizonaLad · 5 pointsr/DIY

Go to your local used appliance store, or Habitat for Humanity, and find the smallest refrigerator you can find. Think dorm room size, if possible.

Get a hole saw and drill two four inch holes in the sides; one high on the right side, and the other low on the left side. Over the lower hole screw one of these:

https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-120vac-4-fan?variant=5717368453

The other hole gets one of these screwed to the outside:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/4-in-x-4-in-PVC-DWV-Closet-Flange-C4851HD4/100345759

Now buy a few pieces of 4" PVC. Straight, elbows, anything you think would be good to direct the air to the area the plants are sitting. Since cold air falls, perhaps run it to the roof of the enclosure over the plant stands.

Now turn it on. In a few minutes you should feel cool air falling gently over the open rack shelving that your plants will sit on.

Now you need to control it. Buy one or two of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

Plug the small fridge into one outlet, and the fan into the other, if you want them separate. Turn the internal thermostat on the fridge to the lowest setting you can. It will stay there 'till the end of time. It will not be needed to control the temps. The outlet controller will do that.

Finished. Total cost: maybe $100 to $150 USD, depending on what kind of bargain you drive for the little fridge. And you can use it for a second duty. It will keep your drinks cold while you are puttering amongst the greenery.

u/CBD_Sasquatch · 5 pointsr/microgrowery

Put a thermostat outlet switch like this in your tent and plug the AC unit into it.

Make sure whatever sort of thermostat switch you use is able to handle the wattage of your AC unit.

Lux WIN100 Heating & Cooling Programmable Outlet Thermostat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XM1RzbEZRFSFN

Edit: this link is just an example. Not something I have personally used. The next comment links to what looks like a better unit.

u/sgtsnyder88 · 5 pointsr/Tools

I've had this one with me on projects for a few years now and it's worked pretty decent for the price. No complaints.

u/advicevice · 5 pointsr/OpenPV

Hakko Fx-888d best damn soldering iron I've ever owned.

Honestly, I get most of my stuff off Amazon, but that's probably because I have Prime. I've also found allelectronics.com to be pretty decent for sourcing larger quantities of heat shrink tubing, wiring, and other stuff.

u/PizzaGood · 5 pointsr/robotics

If you want a no brainer, will definitely work well for you answer, just get yourself a genuine 888D

Just under $100:
http://amazon.com/dp/B00AWUFVY8

Personally I bought a half dozen $30 937D clones and they're working well for me.

Here's my teardown on the clones I bought (FWIW they're up to $40 on ebay now)

http://www.dragonflydiy.com/2014/11/30-ebay-937d-soldering-iron-teardown.html

I bought them because I need a bunch for teaching classes and couldn't afford a half dozen 888s. For just one for my own use, I'd just get an 888D.

If you have special needs like a lot of heat capacity then the JBC CD-2BB, but it's close to $500, yikes.

u/ruhe · 5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Build Log 5: Viterbi


Highlights

u/idiot_proof · 5 pointsr/cars
  1. RGB LED strips. Here is about 5m worth of waterproof strips with a remote controller for $16. Not sure how best to get power there, but you can find instructions on youtube. Foot wells, cup holders, and doors are generally the best spots for these.
  2. Paint. One of my friends handpainted the interior of his WRX to have white accents instead of just black. Looked very clean (to high school me) and can add that bit of personalization you're looking for. Maybe look for subtle accents to your current interior (paint black on a black interior for lines that are only visible from certain angles). I don't know back to the future very well, but you could use that for inspiration here.
  3. Gauges, dials, and displays. Back to the Future has a car with a lot of information right in the center console. Having a Nexus 7 or other tablet in the center of the dash or boost gauges on the A-pillar could add to this look while still being functional.
u/anonymousobserver7 · 5 pointsr/internetparents

There's actually a relatively inexpensive bidet toilet attachment if you're interested. I don't have one but they seem to have great reviews.

u/oscill8 · 5 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Not sure on /u/Steammonkey restock times, you can always pm him. There are other vendors who carry it (shouldn't be hard to find) as well.

[This is my multimeter] (http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA), I'm sure many are similarly laid out. (I had this before I started building; not sure if there's a "recommended" multimeter out there.) You can see the little "OHM" on the dial, set it there :) The battery voltage meter settings on the side are under "battery load test", you put the pos to the pos end of your batt, neg to neg :) There are some youtube videos specifically for multimeters + vaping that are helpful and will also show you where to position the leads for checking ohms, etc. On the vids, pay attention to how to check your meter's internal resistance, esp. with lower ohm builds. Be sure to buy a digital multimeter, not the analog kind w/ the bouncy arm for readouts.

I use Panasonic CGR18650s, AW 18490s, and MNKEs mainly for vaping so I don't know those (I had to search for mine, not printed on batts most of the time); it may be easier to search for the "c" rating of your battery so you can calculate its amp limits. (Again, sm's monkey u has a nice walkthru; it's not hard, just math.) Off the bat I'd say you likely don't want to use your "mystery" blue batt unless you can verify mfr/c rating... most batts packaged with kits are okay for vv/vw devices, not really super for mechs esp. when you're cloud chasing/low ohms. Is the ncr panny protected? (I don't know.) You don't want to use protected batts.

The 2c for safety fuse ... is a nice idea, but I think it has a 8 or 10 watt limit? (Don't quote me, I'm pulling numbers from you-know-where.) It'll be tripped pretty fast with low ohms... I don't think you can use them effectively with anything over 1.5 ohms or so. They make resettable ones (along w/ ones that are one time use, and that would stink), but again, they'll just stop your batt from firing when you want it to put out the watts you'll be pulling w/ lower ohms.

Honestly, I'd start high-ish and work your way down. Totally honest again, I'm kind of loving higher ohm (1.5-2.0) on my vv device (Provari), using one right now as I type. You can push much higher volts with the amplification of vv than you can reach with mechs, won't come near amp limits (you'll hit your device's amp limit before your battery's), and will still get a super vape. I have [a post on some higher (than sub) ohm builds + vv here] (http://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/1g9c87/fun_with_contact_coils_higher_ohm_rbas_and/) to give you an idea of what I mean. Not saying don't go mech, I'm running 0.8 right now on my GV Sentinel and it's super, but ... I'm a ninny, "true" cloud chasing/sub 0.5 ohms freak me the f out ;) and some people have written off vv devices + RBAs when they really shouldn't. It may be harder to build/test on a PWM (pbusardo has a vid if you don't know about PWM) vv device, but firing is lovely once you get it on point :)

Happy reading, watching, building :)

u/tanglisha · 5 pointsr/xxfitness

This thing is fabulous. It lets you take the measurements yourself, keeping the tension consistent each time.

u/XxX420-BLAZE-ITXxX · 5 pointsr/chinaglass
u/I_Dab_Slabs · 5 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

Best torch is the Blazer GT8000 Big Shot

http://www.amazon.com/Blazer-GT8000-Shot-Butane-Torch/dp/B000NCZU0A

Bit expensive at 100, but worth it. Not sure what affordable is to you, though. Everyone has a different idea of what that is depending on their budget. As for fast working this is a flawless torch. Lights every single time and is heats it up quick.

u/The_Joe_ · 5 pointsr/toolporn

I don't like busy pockets, and I don't have time to sharpen a knife. I carry a Gerber Razor knife because it fits in my watch pocket and I just change the blade every 7-20 days.

Gerber EAB Pocket Knife [22-41830] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016KHW2W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bb1kDb3BPBDN1

Cannot possibly recommend this enough. Much nicer than the bulkier knives I used to carry, and it isn't showing much age after being in my pocket for a year.

Edit: $12.95.

u/kristhebrown · 5 pointsr/EDC
u/shahdawg · 5 pointsr/EDH

I have one of these that I store a lot of my decks in. Very cheap too. And if you wanna replace the big bins with smaller one's theyre only ~$2
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G1CUK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_Hk5wyDRF47epw

u/dablackcat0 · 5 pointsr/EDH

Buy yourself one of these puppies. It holds 12 decks. The compartments fit just about any 100+ deck box or you can just leave the deck in the compartment on its own.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B001G1CUK0

u/cesarfalldown · 5 pointsr/mtgcube

I use a Stanley organizer. It has 10 compartments; 8 small and two large. The small compartments can each hold a double sleeved commander deck, the large compartments can hold about 200.

Stanley 10 Removable Bin Compartment Deep Professional Organizer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G1CUK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9bzdBbTK81R2R

u/shadowbanningsucks · 5 pointsr/preppers

If I were prepping for cold, I would look into a indoor-rated propane heater.

u/Ikeelu · 5 pointsr/buildapc

So I just literally got back from purchasing that case, but in Black/Red. I'm convinced to do lighting as well. Question. This is the one your using right? Does it come with all the lights you used, or did you need the extension kit too? Also can you cake pix of the install location please.

u/Cantos · 5 pointsr/homegym

It’s these.

(Pack of 6) Barrina LED T5 Integrated Single Fixture, 4FT, 2200lm, 6500K (Super Bright White), 20W, Utility Shop Light, Ceiling and Under Cabinet Light, Corded Electric with Built-in ON/Off Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HBT3BVM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fQ19BbK7VS958

u/bobgodd2 · 5 pointsr/homegym

That's a great big space, you're very fortunate.


Also:
(Pack of 6) Barrina LED T5 Integrated Single Fixture, 4FT, 2200lm, 6500K (Super Bright White), 20W, Utility Shop Light, Ceiling and Under Cabinet Light, Corded electric with built-in ON/OFF switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HBT3BVM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M2cYDbSKZY7WG

u/Yvese · 5 pointsr/nvidia

If your card is still working then I don't see a need to replace it.

Find something to hold it up. You could use lego, figures, whatever. People have gotten creative.

For me I bought this. Works well.

u/JoeyDJQ · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IQCBKOI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's what I use. Very easy to adjust and install.

I didn't like the brackets I tried.

u/ultradip · 5 pointsr/Assistance

RV floors are uninsulated. That's one of the reasons why they get so cold.

Anyway, how's the electrical system in the RV? An electric blanket draws a lot of power. If the electrical system isn't in good shape, and he doesn't drive the RV around much to charge the batteries, then the electric blanket would be much less useful.

How big is the RV? Because there are some indoor-safe propane heaters that would work better, such as this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU

u/shiftyeyedgoat · 5 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I think this fits the sub 50$ mark OP is requesting.

If you're looking for something a little smaller at half that price, the Leatherman Squirt PS4 has a fair amount of functionality for a 2.5" folded keychain addition.

u/ripsfo · 4 pointsr/daddit

I took my youngest at 6mos and it was no trouble at all. Though at that age, we did bring a packnplay, and you'll want to make sure you're warm enough at night. She had the full puffy pjs and was in the double sleeping bag with my wife and I. If it's going to be really cold, you could get one of these heaters.

If anything, the biggest challenge camping with kids is naps, because it can be tough to get it dark enough unless you have an RV. Generally it seems like they got no nap on the arrival day, then they play really hard the next day and either crash around nap time, or typically a bit before their regular bed time. After that, it's pretty up in the air, but I find it all works out.

Our most recent camping trip had like 9 kids, half of which were under 1. It was so great seeing the 3-4 year olds running around and getting dirty. They loved it.

u/MrPoundabeer · 4 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I've been rocking my Leatherman Squirt as a daily carry for the past 3-4 years. I use it several times a week, maybe more. I believe they make two versions, one with pliers and one with scissors(?); I'd go with the pliers 99 out of 100 times... I also see they have a 25 year warranty - bonus!

u/EbayNachos · 4 pointsr/knives

Also dont forget about the Leatherman Squirt PS4

u/Bizzaroworld725 · 4 pointsr/EDC

You could make a monkey's fist with some paracord and slide the key into the fifth pocket of your jeans. I carry a photon light, a leatherman squirt and a gerber shard on some aircraft cable and a carabiner. I just about something on my keychain besides my keys everyday

u/x3z8 · 4 pointsr/airsoft

I would recommend this list instead:

u/-TheBasedWeeaboo- · 4 pointsr/airsoft

Those suck.

  1. Rip cheek weld
  2. Rip actually looking down almost any sights
  3. Mesh is shitty for eye pro, you would need to have low profile goggles under.

    **
    Consider These:

    Pyramex I-Force
    One Tigris Mesh Mask
u/dootdootmydood · 4 pointsr/airsoft

Basically everyone on this sub recommends these cheap and really good, and meets the impact requirements. Buy nice, not twice. (especially with eyepro)

u/Kshennya · 4 pointsr/keto

Not DIY, but I use this [measurement tape] (https://www.amazon.com/AccuFitness-MT05-MyoTape-Body-Measure/dp/B000G7YW7Y/ref=sr_1_3_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1522175438&sr=1-3&keywords=body+measurement+tape). Several brands like it on there. It allows for a MUCH easier experience than a flexible measuring tape like for sewing because you put the "peg" into the holder to make a "loop" bigger than you need, then push the button and it tightens down to fit you... then you read it! I track measurements 1x a month in MFP. Not as cheap, but user friendly.

u/asiangoliath · 4 pointsr/lesbianfashionadvice

that's fantastic.

I have this one and it's pretty great: myotape

u/ipewp666 · 4 pointsr/trees

This is the one my pops bought and it works so well. Japanese manufacturing. https://www.amazon.com/Blazer-GT8000-Shot-Butane-Torch/dp/B000NCZU0A

u/Mrcool360 · 4 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

I don't use propane due to it causing oxidation faster than butane. My new favorite is the Blazer Bigshot Blazer GT8000 Big Shot Butane Torch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCZU0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_WeyIwbVGXZVYA

u/whatevrmn · 4 pointsr/technology

Take Amazon's money. Jesus fuck I overpaid for this at an Ace Hardware.

u/Eloquinn · 4 pointsr/homestead

I used to help my grandfather do this all the time when I was a kid. We castrated them when they were very young - about the size of a large cat. He always had a little, old-fashioned 2-blade folder that he carried everywhere and he'd spend half an hour sharpening it when it was time to do the castrating.

I'd hold the pig by the back legs and he'd slice them, remove the testicles, cut the cord and then swab them with iodine and let them go. There wasn't much blood at all... The scariest part was always the sows angrily squealing and looking for a way to get in and tear us apart...

If I were to do this today I'd probably use a utility knife with a fresh blade in it. No worries about sharpness and you can toss the blade when you're done. Check out the Gerber EAB. It's my every day carry and would probably work great for this.

I don't remember ever having to castrate a large pig. I do remember that he used bands to castrate the cows. Basically it was just a heavy duty rubber band that would cut off blood flow until the testicles just fell off. It sounds gruesome but it never seemed to cause them any distress and we never had issues with infection. I'm not sure if this would work on pigs but you could probably google it.

u/majornerd · 4 pointsr/EDC

I bought the gerber utility knife because everything else was too thick.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0016KHW2W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1396738590&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40

u/Colin42 · 4 pointsr/EDC

1 - Canadian pesos: great for censuring keys and exchanging for cheap goods.
2 - Kingston DataTraveler SE9 8GB USB 2.0
3 - Generic plastic cable stripper from idk where.
4 - Old 10 roentgen quartz pen dosimeter from (I think) Canadian forces surplus.
5 - Gerber 22-41830 EAB Pocket Knife
6 - Zebra Pen F-701
7 - Corsair 32GB voyager GO
8 - Olight i3E EOS EDC AAA LED Keychain Flashlight
9 - USB-C to Micro USB, One is in a 3d printed holder.
10 - Cheap but good sony headphones from bestbuy.

u/Tropicalkings · 4 pointsr/EDH

As stated in other comments a cheap DSLR backpack will work well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VPE1WK/

Another option is a part organizer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008J2IQ34
Or
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001G1CUK0/

This one can hold up to 12 double sleeved EDH decks.


Always be on the lookout, some of the best deckboxes out there are not made for cards but happen to work better than branded crap. I like to use the boxes my cellphone came in to hold whatever deck I take to FNM.

u/fox112 · 4 pointsr/magicTCG

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B001G1CUK0

as you can see in the pic it has 2 extra large compartments. If you're at a home depot or something just grab the normal sized compartments from a different box and you can comfortably fit 12 commander decks, it's really sturdy, I'm a big fan.

u/alf666 · 4 pointsr/EDH

For those wondering what he means by "Stanley toolboxes", this is the product he is talking about.

u/tiehunter · 4 pointsr/magicTCG

I have the same thing and got it through amazon. Here's a link.

u/SeveredKibbles · 4 pointsr/TinyHouses

>What's the climate like at the college you have planned?

UW Madison, so hella cold. I'm going to get a cargo van (no windows in the rear to let out heat) and insulate the tar out of it with rockwool. I'll also have a [indoors-safe propane heater] (http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422033045&sr=8-1&keywords=buddy+heater) as well as a low power electric heater that will be powered by a battery banked charged by my alternator.

>You might want to consider a community college or somewhere where your living arrangements won't be under scrutiny.

I plan on getting a degree in biology and then go on to vet school, so I'm pretty set with going to Madison.

>some colleges don't 'allow' you to live anywhere but the dorms..... Or a C class RV.

That's why I plan on getting a small cargo van (an AWD Astro to be specific). I can rig it up to be comfy and warm with almost no sign of me being in it. Ill have a metal bulkhead that blocks the front seats from the back, which doesnt look out of place in a cargo van, and the only exterior mod I'd make is a sunroof, which most people couldn't see anyways since the van is over 6ft tall (I'd do this for ventilation and light).

>You'll probably only be there to sleep and relax

Thats the plan, I hope to be either at libraries or at the gym for a good chunk of the day.

u/windupmonkeys · 4 pointsr/modelmakers

As in, while acrylics are not generally as toxic in chemical composition as enamels and lacquers (though this is open to debate, see below), breathing aerosolized particles of paint is still not ideal. Ever stand in a room when someone used too much hairspray and there are clouds of it floating around? Or women's perfume counter? You get the idea. Or clouds of sanding dust in a construction site?

The recommedations I've gotten for good respirators are P95 type respirators, which are not cheap but come with replaceable cart filters.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Paint-Project-Respirator-Medium/dp/B00004Z4EB/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1410634742&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=airbrush+respirator

Or, at minimum, an N95 dust/facemask. It's not nearly as effective, but it's better than nothing.

It's also open to debate how much safer acrylics really are. The truly water based/low VOC/low toxicity stuff is fine, but see e.g. a tamiya acrylic bottle, it will warn that you are spraying gylcol ethers.

See also MSDS materials safety disclosure sheets for particular brands of paint, if you're really concerned about it. Thinners, lacquers, and cleaners tend to be some seriously nasty stuff, as is cement, which in many liquid iterations contains Methyl Ethyl Ketone, or MEK.


MSDS sheets for multiple brands:

http://www.stanbridges.com.au/safety-data-sheets

u/CreativeRealmsMC · 4 pointsr/Bushcraft

I had been making photo albums but just started a YouTube channel. My friend was nice enough to let me borrow his GoPro and mounts but most of the time I record with my phone (also have another camera but it's a bit broken and can only take pictures). Part of what I'm ordering from amazon is a new monopod/tripod/selfie stick which I'm very much in need of at the moment since my videos are a bit shaky.

Haven't gotten around to do any solo 2 day trips yet (most of the time I'd be with a group and there would be designated campsites to fill up water at) but if I was going out with no means to fill up I'd take anywhere from 4-6 liters of water. The climate here is very hot and there is no such thing as bringing too much water. If there was a water source I could potentially allow myself to bring less since I could boil any water I find.

Amazon list:
-5.11 Rush 72 55L backpack
-Mora Companion (stainless steel)
-Bahco Laplander
-Headlamp
-Jetboil 10in frying pan
-Whetstone

All together that weighs 7.9 pounds and at some point I'd like to get a sleeping pad and tarp bringing it up to ten pounds (not including food, water, and other supplies which might get me to around 15-20 pounds depending on the duration of my outings).

As for the grill it's just a makeshift one. Four tent pegs and a small grate.

u/Motunaga · 4 pointsr/ecobee

If you are looking for a not so smart but reliable thermostat switch, I recently got one of these and have been reliable: Lux WIN100 Automatic Heating & Cooling 5-2 Day Programmable Outlet Thermostat, Compatible with Portable A/C, Fans, and Space Heaters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bAIXDbYAV1WBB

u/UrHideless · 4 pointsr/airsoft

G&G Combat Machine M4-A1 Carbine W/ 9.6v battery and Charger: Black Version

Tan Version

Pyramex i-force goggles [I own them, no fogging at all] : Link

Bravo Strike Steel Face Mask: Black

OD

Tactical Sling: Link

Tactical Premium Elite Force 0.20's BBs 5000: Link

Amazon Total (free shipping) : $23.96

Airsoft GI Total with "2013memorial" Coupon WITH UPS ground: $168.28

Grand Total: $192.64 (This is the price shipped)

Use those $37.36 and get some Camo Clothes from a local store or eBay, you'll get it cheaper than getting them from airsoft stores.

Don't need/want Camo Clothing?

Get a Vest UTG Vest

or perhaps spare magazine: Magazine

Or

Red Dot Scope

Or
Gloves & Knee Pads

That's pretty much it, see you on the field!


Edit: Just to make this clear, I tested my pyramex goggles with my 400FPS KWA SR10 with 0.25, sprayed around 5 shots to the lens and not even a scratch.. They're for about $20+ on airsoftgi/evike.. Amazon has better prices on most of the things.

Edit #2: Thanks to Bily_Mays for the correction on the coupon.

u/KA-513 · 4 pointsr/airsoft

Ok. Keeping in mind that I'm US-based, I'm linking to US-based sites. Everything should be available through UK/European sites as well, I just don't know them as well(I'm assuming you're UK/European-based due to the currency). I'm also not including BBs into the initial cost, as I consider those to be a consumable item and tend to factor those into cost-of-play per day of playing.

Gun: I like this G&G Raider Shorty. $150. Alternatively, This CYMA AK is a good option as well, and comes in at $128.

Battery Charger: This is what I use $33

Battery: This one should fit both the Raider and the AK. Important note: If you're using lipos, and the gun is stock, you'll need to use a 7.4v lipo. The 11.1vs are going to shred your wiring. $13

Lipo Sack: You'll need one for charging your batteries $7

As an alternative, Amazon has a package deal for $40

Eye Protection: I like these Pyramex i-Force goggles $16

Face Protection: One Tigris makes this mask $16

Magazines: AK style Mag for $10/each or AR-style for $12/each. I'd recommend getting one extra for starters, and then get more as time and budget allow.

Belt: My normal choice would put you out of your budget, so there's this one that I've never used before that's normally $9, or there's this one from Condor that's $15.

Pouches: It's gonna depend on which rifle you choose, but there's this AK-style that's normally $9 or this AR-style also normally $9.

Almost forgot, barrel cover: It's generally considered good etiquette to have one of these on your gun when not in-play, and mot fields here in the US require them when not on an active field $2

Total Cost for AR-style: $254USD bundling where possible(you could save a little by not getting the belt for now. If you normally wear a belt, just attach the mag pouch to that belt. That'll bring the cost not on-sale to $245USD). Total Cost for AK-style: $230USD, also bundling where possible.

Personally, I'm more of a fan of ARs, but I'd go the AK route and spend the extra $$ on either a third magazine, or an extra battery.

As I'm thinking about it, a second important note on lipo batteries: charge them with the small white connector on the battery, NOT the one that connects to your gun. It might explode if you try to do that.

Hope this helps you out.

u/SpacemanFrank · 4 pointsr/FRC

These are the best safety glasses available IMO

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B006WPSDXS/

u/Mike12344321 · 4 pointsr/Multicopter

IMO weller has gone the way of many. you're paying an extra $30 for the name.

i use this for everything, including SMT

u/zichlone · 4 pointsr/OpenPV

Neither of those irons is temperature controlled. The best you're going to get out of either of those is guessing the temperature based on the voltage settings.

If you're willing to spend that much on a board I would highly recommend getting a better station such as the Hakko FX-888D.

u/noanoxan · 4 pointsr/Gameboy

> Weller WD1

Seriously? If you're going to be dropping $400+ on a soldering station, then you buy some quality HW. JBC > Weller in precision soldering equipment.

OP is looking for something like a TS-100, or a FX-888

OP can buy cheaper if they're not planning to get into the hobby, but I'd suggest investing in a station with adjustable heat as a minimum.

u/OriginalMSV · 4 pointsr/funkopop

I used these, which I bought mainly because they could do pure white, but the 3232 is a bit cheaper.

I also had to buy links and wire to connect them to each other, since I've got them running from the same power supply.

If you want intimate details, I can provide more links when I'm back on desktop.

u/elijha · 4 pointsr/malelivingspace

And on a similar note, a bidet attachment for your toilet. They're like $40 and super easy to install. (Don't bother with a hot water one, it really doesn't matter). I have this one. Seriously game-changing.

u/MilkPudding · 4 pointsr/bettafish

For a tank that size, you can make do with a simple desk lamp with an adjustable arm and a 6500K colour temp CFL bulb with 1600 lumens, which is suitable as a growlight for plants. I've had good results in my small planted tank with this setup, just keep the light pretty close to the aquarium.

I actually just have my plants in sand so a specialty planted tank substrate isn't necessary, although of course it helps, especially with more finicky plants. If you just want to plant some easy aquatic plants like java fern, anubias, and anacharis, you probably won't need it. I've had good luck with Rotala and Alternanthera reineckii in sand too.

If you're into floaters, water spangles and amazon frogbit are relatively easy to grow, although I learned the hard way that frogbit in particular really does not like surface agitation and getting the tops of their leaves wet.

I also like duckweed, which is dead easy to grow, although most people hate it (so you've been warned) because it gets everywhere and is really hard to get rid of if you decide you don't want it.

u/_Prrr · 4 pointsr/succulents

I have one like that on some plants that aren't succulents and it's going really well. I just stuck some succulents under it too so we'll see how that goes. However, I have most of my succulents under this. It's super cheap, you just need a CFL lightbulb that has a "daylight" color (between 5000k-6500k) and is the equivalent of a 75 or higher watt bulb. Something like this (this is a four pack). You could get two of the one I use, plus light bulbs, for less than the one you linked too. And the clasp on the one I linked to is much stronger and bigger than on the LED light, so it's easier to attach in more places.

Edit to add that the clamp lamp with the reflector has a cord and an on-off switch. The picture makes it look like it's just a reflector and that you need to buy your own cord for the lightbulb.

u/Costeno123 · 4 pointsr/buildmeapc

Your chat spamming fingers will be glorious with a PC of this caliber. Liquid cooled? Check. Overclockable? Check. SSDs? You betcha. LEDs? Hell yeah. This is a truly sick looking build and will last you ages. ^^^this ^^^build ^^^is ^^^also ^^^in ^^^CAD ^^^prices ^^^as ^^^you ^^^requested

___

At a Glance:

u/SatSenses · 4 pointsr/buildapc

There are support brackets you can screw in to the expansion slots to reinforce the card, or standing support brackets that you can use. I'm on mobile so I'm not sure how you'll see the links as I do.

I did a ghetto fix too, using $5 fishing line but I'm not encouraging it.

u/TomServoHere · 4 pointsr/Tools

More than $25, but take a look at ZebraLight headlamps.

I've been using one for about ten years now without an issue. Great lens angle (covers your entire field of view) and uses a single AA battery which is super easy to replace while it's still mounted on your head.

Edit: fixed linkage

u/reParaoh · 3 pointsr/succulents

Try to get them in a south facing window if you can. If you do not have that, west, then east, then north. North is the worst, and you will want to avoid that if possible because they will never get direct sunlight in a north window.

The window will be the biggest difference because you can't beat the sun in terms of light.

Once they are in a good window, get a light above them if they are still stretching. I try to get daylight spectrum flourescent bulbs in as high of a wattage as I can find. 6500k, 100watt equivalent florescents do great for plants. You might find a T5 HO setup that uses the long skinny flourescent bulbs. I prefer the T5 setup because it is brighter and cleaner looking in my house than a bunch of metal cone reflectors for standard light bulbs.

Put the lights on a timer so that they are on for about the same amount of time that the sun is up. Adjust the timer once a month or so to match the changing daylight hours. Mid summer the light should be on ~16 hours a day, and mid winter just under 12 hours a day. You want to do this because plants are sensitive to seasonal day length, and will grow, flower, or be dormant depending on the amount of light they receive per day.

I like to put lights about 2 feet above plants so that I can still see the plants instead of the light fixture.

I avoid LED lights because I find the purple glow to be ugly.

Depending on the setup, I find ~25 watts of supplemental light per square foot to be adequate, but it's really hard to say how much light actually makes it on the plants...

I have a 330 watt fluorescent light about 2.5ft above a 12 square foot table in a shady west window. A ton of the fluorescent light spreads out to the sides, so it's hard to say how much light I actually supplement. The plants do fine, though.

u/rheasdf · 3 pointsr/succulents

I'm gonna quote what I wrote about my set-up in another thread. Small, cheap, and can clamp anywhere. Good luck!

> Very, very basic. I only got into succulents about two months ago, so keep in mind I'm very much a beginner.
>
> Right now, I have three clamp lamps with these bulbs, clipped onto a leaning desk. It's pretty cheap and seems to be working out for me so far, judging by the compact new growth on my light-hungry Echeverias. But I'm running out of grow-light room! I've been debating upgrading to one of these or simply just buying another clamp lamp to cover more surface area (since I know my addiction will eventually lead to me buying more babies).

u/Echeveriamazing · 3 pointsr/succulents

There are several types of grow lights!

There are Compact Fluorescent bulbs (CFL), fluorescent lights (typically T5 and T8) and then you have LED lights. T5 and T8 lights are long tubes that produce light using ballast. CFL lights are usually bulbs that can go into a lamp. LED lights take several forms: in panels, bulbs or lighting strips.


Each light has their pros and cons:

T5 and T8 Lights
Pros: strong light source and wider coverage
Cons: produce a lot of heat, expensive energy consumption

LED lights
Pros: give off less heat and use less energy
Cons: tend to be a weaker light source, most are a bright red/blue/purple in color

CFL lights
Pros: decent light source, decent energy use
Cons: limited coverage so you may need to purchase several

So this is what you want in a light:
6500k temperature,
2000-5000 lumens,
20watts at least (my personal recommendation, less than 20watts can be too weak sometimes)

I’ve had good experience with these bulbs if you’re looking for something cheap and simple to start off. These guys are still my favorites out of all my lights, my plants get the best stress colors under them!

If you buy some that are a little under these ranges that’s totally alright, they should still work great! 6500k temperature is the most important, since it is the closest to natural daylight 🙂

u/daisy1975 · 3 pointsr/succulents

They need to be relatively close to be effective as far as I've read but it's worth it. It doesn't have to be elaborate just a bulb like this (you want it to be 6500k) and a desk lamp or clamp light .

u/dekirasoft · 3 pointsr/InteriorDesign

Something really easy and cheap you could do is replace the light bulbs with CFL or another white light. That should make the vibe a little cozier.

Here's a link to the light bulbs I use

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M6SR1JM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_j4xJWyGQmluSV

u/grapegeek · 3 pointsr/hydro

Go with some cheap LED strips. These should do the job https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HBT3BVM

u/Ten9melt · 3 pointsr/woodworking

amazon has a 6 pack of 48 inch led shop lights for 40 bucks. best investment ever

​

891 reviews 4.5 stars I got a perfect set. put 4 in the shop. one over my kitchen sink and one in the laundry room.

​

yes the connecting wires are a little short . but it comes with 6 power cords and switches..



https://www.amazon.com/Barrina-Integrated-Fixture-Utility-electric/dp/B01HBT3BVM/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_bs_lp_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=5W1BPBMPEGBEQ9304H79



u/kcgotthelife · 3 pointsr/homegym
u/Unusual_Future · 3 pointsr/homegym

I got these are they are great. Easy install and lights up my garage nicely. Only issue is that one came in with a dent in the plastic housing of the light. It didn't cause any issues though. There are plenty of other posts about these lights on here as well.

Barrina LED T5

u/drakeg4 · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Did the same here, wired my garage up with 2 boxes of these bad boys. They're very bright and very daylight though VERY cheaply constructed due to the price point.

u/hundreds100 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

MSI Armor, have the same card. Had to purchase this guy to stop the sagging

u/mugglesby · 3 pointsr/nvidia

This is my personal favorite - -

https://www.amazon.com/MasterAccessory-Universal-VGA-Holder-MCA-0005-KUH00/dp/B01IQCBKOI

Coolermaster's "Universal VGA Holder"

Adjustable height, neutral color and appearance for any build, magnetic on the bottom ends of each of the three legs of base so it sticks to metal cases, and there are TWO adjustable lifters, so you can use one for a mascot - -

https://imgur.com/gallery/UItZM


u/smoothlol · 3 pointsr/buildapc

has anyone got the MasterAccessory Universal VGA Holder from amazon? (https://www.amazon.com/MasterAccessory-Universal-VGA-Holder-MCA-0005-KUH00/dp/B01IQCBKOI)

How is it?

u/Ryandw2 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I presume you're American, maybe try this

u/sHockz · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

Well it definitely helps with GPU sag, if that's what you're referring to. But some vertical GPU mount kits can still sag, just in a different way. I'm fairly certain this one will perform adequately though without sagging. Cooler Master also sells this if you're just trying to cure sag issues: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IQCBKOI/

u/johnpc · 3 pointsr/flashlight
u/dukeface13 · 3 pointsr/flashlight
u/unsane_imagination · 3 pointsr/flashlight

Thanks as always for all the work you do for this hobby and for these great giveaways. Honestly, given the rate of subscriptions, a rarer 5k or 10k subscriber giveaway would be more significant and let people try out fancier flashlights if they win.

This time around, I’d like to try for the Zebralight H53c headlamp

u/sco0ts19 · 3 pointsr/flashlight

The H53c is available on Amazon.

The 503 models are mules (no reflector, most spill). The H53fc has the same reflector as the h53c, just with a frosted lens for more spill.

The H53c has the most throw of the bunch which sounds like what you want. I have one and it is a good lightweight and versatile headlamp. Also consider getting some quality nimh batteries instead of using alkalines that could (will) leak and ruin your light!

u/Itsacon · 3 pointsr/Warhammer

Since he's airbrushing, using protection is a good idea. When I'm spraypainting primer (even with normal cans), I'll wear a decent mask too.

And gloves are not just protection, they also prevent your hands from looking gross when you go to work the next day.

u/mmpre · 3 pointsr/woodworking

While I don't wear seeing glasses, I do use safetly glasses and have experienced the fogging on those. I use this mask and love it. Not only does it filter out the dust, but it also filters out any fumes from the finishing products I'm using.

u/goodguydan · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

This is the mask I use.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z4EB/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00004Z4EB&linkCode=as2&tag=goosgunblo-20

I also wear glasses, so I can't comfortably wear a full mask. Half masks work just as well, and this one is fairly comfortable and cheap to maintain.

u/420Hookup · 3 pointsr/medicalschool

Everyone is recommending the boss quiet comforts. They are TERRIBLE for dead silence.

Don’t believe me? Buy them from Best Buy rather than online and try them out for a day or two. That way you can return them if they don’t work out.

What you really need for dead silence are the construction headphones.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009LI4K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_66sGAb74JMAE5

These are 10x cheaper and actually block noise.

u/eawsound · 3 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Ok so these headphones do not have active noise cancellation, correct? You are just using them to block outside sound?

If that's the case then you are likely not damaging your hearing just by wearing them to bed. However, if you are plugging them into your phone and that causes a buzz in the headphones then you may give yourself a notch hearing loss. I have a few pairs of cheap headphones that when plugged in make a slight buzzing noise even when I'm not playing anything through them. Even though it's a soft sound I would be concerned with being exposed to that signal for 6-8 hours every day.

If you can already tolerate the headphones you may want to look into just a pair of earmuffs. I use these for around the house stuff and they work very well.

u/mzieg · 3 pointsr/learnprogramming

A cheap pair of ear protectors. Been wearing these at work for 10 years, help you get the job done.

u/Rando_Thoughtful · 3 pointsr/gundeals

This is a good deal but I think the Peltor is better if you have a large head and ears like I do: http://www.amazon.com/3M-Peltor-H10A-Optime-Earmuff/dp/B00009LI4K/

u/gravyenema · 3 pointsr/GlobalOffensive

They use IEMs and Ear-Muffs over them.

> also is surround sound and 5.1 speakers ingame better for cs or not?

You have 2 speakers over 2 ears. Stereo is fully capable at rendering accurate direction. Surround sound adds delay, echo and dither which degrades the sound. It also requires 100% perfect V speaker placement to be even remotely accurate. You will be hard pressed to find a "Pro" that doesn't use "windows_speaker_config 1" which is the "Headphones" setting In-game. I often hear things others don't, and everyone I know that uses the 5.1 setup gets reversed direction bugs all the time. Virtual Surround is better for cinematic experiences, like Skyrim, not for CSGO where accurate direction is key. Also for gaming, most Realtek onboard chips are perfectly capable.

http://forums.absurdminds.net/viewtopic.php?p=14926#p14926

u/enigma2100 · 3 pointsr/LifeProTips

absolute best earplugs I've tried

hearos xtreme protection

http://www.amazon.com/Hearos-Ear-Plugs-Xtreme-Protection/dp/B000NP79YM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421139714&sr=8-2&keywords=hearos

put the hearos xtreme protection in and then put these earmuffs on

absolute best earmuffs I've tried

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Peltor-H10A-Optime-Earmuff/dp/B00009LI4K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1421139881&sr=8-4&keywords=peltor

it will be total silence

I sleep with just the earplugs in.

if I'm up and reading and want total silence I put the earplugs in and then put the earmuffs over, these earmuffs are extremely comfortable, also you put headphones (earbuds) (for music and movies) on and put the earmuffs over. I can't say enough great things about these earmuffs.

Like someone else said on here your neighbors, landlord, and the cops just don't care. Moving is the only option.
Best advice is to move and never move back into apartments again.

u/Lurkndog · 3 pointsr/Bushcraft

For processing firewood, get a Bahco Laplander folding saw. It's lightweight, durable, works well, and it's only about $24. It's lighter than an axe or hatchet, and much safer to use.

u/king_human · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

I'd suggest 2 things:

  1. Send your SCHF51 back, especially if the heat treat is poorly done.

  2. To pair with your ESEE 3, I'd suggest an Ontario RAT 1 or 2, and a Laplander folding saw. Maybe also throw in a Mora or two (for feather sticks!).

    A saw is waaaaaaaaay better for cutting down firewood to useful sizes, and, using a Mora (or similarly shaped & ground knife), you can make wedges and split big logs. Also, Mors Kochanski is awesome. That is all.
u/swflanglers · 3 pointsr/kayamping

I use this folding saw and a machete. Saw is for wood mostly, machete is for vines/whatever piddly defense it'll give me against raccoons or gators.

I haven't camped in the summer yet, but I prefer hammocks because they stay cooler than tents. With a basic under quilt and top quilt, I was comfortable when it got down to the 40s. A kid might do better with a tent though, my kids move a lot while they're sleeping. Warbonnet Blackbird is what I use, they're actually on sale today(7/4) I believe.

u/korgothwashere · 3 pointsr/bugout

Laplander or a Silky Saw dude.

Also, a little bag like a Maxpedition Rolly Polly would make a great small addition that can expand for some more space in a pinch.

u/OddTheViking · 3 pointsr/Bushcraft

I had assumed you meant this: http://www.amazon.com/Bahco-396-LAP-Laplander-Folding-8-Inch/dp/B0001IX7OW

I have one, it's awesome.

u/porkchopmike · 3 pointsr/backpacking
u/drive2fast · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Find a basic non electronic one.

Oil filled heaters are brilliant BUT the built in thermostats don't work. They can't as they are beside the heat source. Use something like this rated for at least as many watts as your heater is rated for:

https://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

You can't do this with an electronic model as they will reset, but if you get something like this you can control the thermostat properly. Don't plug it into an outside wall that has poor insulation or you will loose accuracy.

u/lessansculottes · 3 pointsr/electricians

If I understand you correctly, I think you want something like this

u/teebob21 · 3 pointsr/phoenix

This works best if you have great insulation and double-pane windows. We don't...so supercooling just made us cold while it ran, hot while it didn't, and jacked a "normal" $300/mo APS bill to $450+.

That was three years ago. I bought a window mount swamp cooler (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bonaire-Durango-4-500-CFM-3-Speed-Window-Evaporative-Cooler-6280030/204679889) plus a plugin thermostat (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E7NYY8/), plumbed it with black 1/4" irrigation tubing, and haven't looked back since. We now only run the AC the last two weeks of July and all of August. 11/10 with rice, highly recommend.

u/gandi800 · 3 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

You're main electrical draws are going to be your major appliances then lighting. Though there isn't really one thing you can do to see a huge decrease in power consumption doing a few things together would be noticeable.

  • Turning the temp of you're fridge/freezer up a degree or two always helps, obviously don't go to high or that defeats the purpose.

  • Keeping your blinds drawn, or getting semi transparent blinds, to block out the sun and keep your apartment cooler will help reduce your AC consumption by a lot, which is easily your largest draw during the summer.

  • Using the timer on your AC can actually see a huge improvement, set your AC to turn off about 1/2 way or 3/4 of the way through the night depending on how warm it is out side. If your AC doesn't have this feature you can always pick up something along these lines.

  • Obviously use CFL bulbs, people often complain about CFL bulbs but I think that's just out of misinformation. Unlike Incandescent bulbs there is a HUGE difference between each CFL brand and even bulbs within the same brand. If you're intrested I can go into further detail on this as there is probably a paragraph or two of information.

  • Look into residential rebate programs from your power provider for anything energy efficient. In order to receive a power generation license in the US your provider must have a program in place to reduce their costumers power consumption by 1% annually. They usually do this by offering rebates on energy efficient items. On CFL bulbs this can be a $1-$4 depending on the area, but on larger appliances, such as an energy efficient window ac (or for home owners furnaces and water heaters) the rebates can become pretty substantial.

  • Make sure all of your electronics actually turn off when they're off. For example if you hit the power button once on the Nintendo Wii it just hibernation mode which cuts the power consumption from 18watts to 10watts (not even a 50% reduction!) where as holding the power button turns the unit off and it will only draw 1 watt. You pretty much have to google your electronics to figure this one out. The other fun way (and is useful in other situations as well) is to pick up a Kill-o-watt. These nifty little guys will show you the power draw of whatever is plugged into it, I usually have mine plugged into my fridge or my power strip for my entertainment center. You could plug in your entertainment center power strip and reset the meter before you go to bed to see how much power everything is drawing when you're not using it, you will be surprised!

  • Finally the biggest and hardest one, behavior modification. The biggest waste of power in the world is power not being utilized. I once surveyed a site that had multiple buildings, one of which was vacant. The site didn't realize the lights were coming on in the vacant building because of a timer and had spent $15,000 a year for the last 4 years lighting up an empty building. Make sure to turn off the lights when you're done, take the milk out of the fridge then SHUT the fridge, turn off your electronics when you're are done (or at least hibernate them). These things are the hardest to do but once the habit is formed it won't be an issue.

    Off the top of my head that's what I got! If I think of other things I will add them! Also I apologize if some of my numbers are off, I've been out of the industry for a few years now.
u/toklas · 3 pointsr/Homebrewing

This is kind of ghetto, but i use something like this. I run an extension cable into my fridge, then plug that into the extension cord (which is inside the fridge), then plug the fridge into that thing. Once the temp goes over what i set, it turns on the fridge until the temp is acceptible - so if you're looking to add a heating aspect to it i'd recommend another avenue. There are love controllers, PIDs, and some greenhouse stores have other types of temp controllers like the style i use but have an outlet for heat and an outlet for cooling.

It looks like a monster but it's functional... The black cable is the fridge's plug, which is plugged into the controller, which is plugged into the blue extension cord.

u/darkharlequin · 3 pointsr/shittyrobots
u/SpaceIguana · 3 pointsr/mechanics

You should be fine with a Harbor Freight tool box. To be honest you can also buy tools and other things from there as well with out much worry. Just don't buy anything from them that will get heavy use under stress. Small tools like screw drivers, allen/hex keys, and grip tools like pliers aren't too bad from them. Just remember that they do deal in cheap tools so don't be surprised when some of them break. The below tools are suggestions and the links are examples for reference only.

u/DazarGaidin · 3 pointsr/vandwellers

Mr heater buddy propane heater, crack an exterior window, buy a co detector.

u/SpartanMonkey · 3 pointsr/vandwellers

I've got one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002G51BZU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421301484&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40
2 one pound propane canisters from Walmart (USD 5.77) lasts me 11 hours on low, which is more than enough to keep the van toasty as low as 15 degrees so far.

u/inzo_barber · 3 pointsr/EDC

Watch: Seiko Men's SNZG13 Seiko 5 Automatic Black Dial Stainless-Steel Bracelet Watch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006ITF2H8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3UYrDbRJTF8KG

Leather and Stainless Steel Key Ring Holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CVGNDRW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SVYrDbS81KB6W

LEATHERMAN - Squirt PS4 Keychain Multitool with Spring-Action Scissors and Aluminum Handles, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0032Y2OT6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0WYrDbAEMHKCZ

ThruNite Ti3 EDC Cree XP-G2 R5 AAA Torch Max120 Lumens LED Flashlight, Mini, Cool White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LUO028U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gYYrDbR56EMY6

Zebra Pen 29212 Zebra F-402 Ballpoint Stainless Steel Retractable Pen, Fine Point, 0.7mm, Black Ink, 2-Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004WOAJP6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MXYrDbC2FWZ1C

Kershaw Cryo G-10 Pocket Knife (1555G10) 2.75" Stonewashed Stainless Steel Blade; G-10/Stainless Steel Handle, SpeedSafe Assisted Open, 4-Position Deep-Carry Pocketclip, Frame Lock, Lock Bar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0RXYTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SYYrDb848H89Q

u/kerrcobra · 3 pointsr/EDC
u/BadHumanGoodGnome · 3 pointsr/EDC

Leatherman PS4 and a Streamlight Nano compact and durable as fuck.

u/Showdo · 3 pointsr/knives

I hear the Leatherman Squirt is pretty good.

u/timschmidt · 3 pointsr/EDC
u/Gearward · 3 pointsr/gadgets

I'm an obsessive gear nerd, and I actually make and design gear for a living.

For your price range, this is bar none the most useful thing you could get him (assuming he likes to be useful himself.)
http://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-831195-Squirt-Black-Keychain/dp/B0032Y2OT6

u/ARKnife · 3 pointsr/knives

That would be the Leatherman Squirt PS4.

Great small tool.

u/Chainmail_Danno · 3 pointsr/santashelpers

You have to help us out with some details here. What do you like to do?

When you start carrying a keychain, having a small multitool can come in handy. I've also wanted to add a little flashlight to my lanyard.

u/410_Bacon · 3 pointsr/LifeProTips

I carry my Leatherman Squirt PS4 every day. Works for so much stuff.

u/Snoogliebear · 3 pointsr/Diesel

The leatherman squirt is my vote:
Leatherman 831195 Squirt PS4 Black Keychain Tool with Plier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0032Y2OT6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_g--9ub16GVE55


Or a flashlight like this: Streamlight 66318 MicroStream C4 LED Pen Flashlight https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00143JZ08/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_4--9ub0V16HNV

u/TheRooster27 · 3 pointsr/airsoft

Dirt cheap option that's worked really well for me: Link

u/disgruntledJavaCoder · 3 pointsr/airsoft

Pyramex I-Force are very popular goggles. I believe OneTigris mesh masks are the most popular mesh lower. Also available without ear protection if you prefer that, though I think most would suggest going with ear protection built in.

u/TheRealSaltyGrease · 3 pointsr/airsoft

15-20$ is gonna save your eyes.Make that choice sooner than later.

u/EthanTheStiffPotato · 3 pointsr/airsoft
u/StrangeOrange_ · 3 pointsr/airsoft

Check out this link if you're interested.

u/MachoNacho95 · 3 pointsr/LeftWingAirsoft

I believe a 11.1V LiPo might be a bit too strong for a cheap AEG (Automatic Electric Gun) like the CM028, so for a beginner I'd recommend a 7.4V LiPo. Also important is to get a balance charger like the IMAX B6. If you don't use a balance charger, the battery may die or even burst into flames (since there is always a tiny risk of LiPos catching on fire even if you do everything right, store them in a fireproof container).

As for eye and face protection, a good and cheap combination are the Pyramex I-Force Dual Pane Anti-Fog Goggles at ~$16 and the OneTigris Foldable Mesh Mask at ~$15-17. You could play without lower face protection, but it's very easy to lose a tooth if you get shot in the face and replacing teeth is extremely expensive.

I personally use a paintball mask (the Dye i4 to be exact), because it's more comfortable and basically impossible to fog up, but a paintball mask is usually pretty expensive ($90-180) and won't be welcome at Milsim events.

If you have some money to burn (like $500+) and want to acquire really easily transferable skills (great demonstration of that here: https://youtu.be/qQDfwyUgtjg), you can go down the GBB (Gas Blowback) route. Those guns are more expensive to buy, spare mags are more expensive and they need routine maintenance, but training with and using them constantly will yield great improvement in your skill with real firearms because they function almost exactly like real firearms (if that's something you're interested in). And also GBBs are extremely fun xD

Or for a compromise between realism and budget, get an AEG rifle and a GBB pistol. Good GBB pistols can be had for as low as $100, a great budget choice here is the WE Glock 17.

u/DamnSevern · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I run a NIST-traceable calibrated Fluke 289 for work and I have one of these cheap Innova DMMs for home/car/vape projects and have been shocked with it's accuracy vs the Fluke. It's typically spot on, vs the much much more expensive Fluke...and you can pick one up for $20 usually.

http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452972631&sr=8-1&keywords=innova+3320

u/mcfarlie6996 · 3 pointsr/flashlight

Yeah, the i2 is designed to stop charging when it reaches 4.2V regardless if the battery is protect or unprotected. So either your charger is really messed up because 4.8V is dangerously high or there's some sort of mix-up with the reading.

>I just assumed given the age of the laptop battery that they'd have low charge and just threw them on the Nitecore i2 charger without testing voltage ahead of time.

You should never do this without knowing the voltage of the batteries beforehand. Here are some directions for the next time you want to do a laptop pull. Buy a multimeter, they're like $25 online. This is the one that I use for testing voltages.

u/cpt_fuzzyboots · 3 pointsr/loseit

You can order a body comp measuring tape off amazon (don't use a seamstress tape). And there's a whole pile of formulas out there that you can put your measurements in, and it will give you an estimate of your body fat percentage. I did all of them, and picked the one that gave me the most median number (which for me was the US Department of Defense formula). I now just use that formula to track my progress.

I feel like this is the most cost-effective and reasonable method for the majority of people.

edit: I went back and it seems like the one I originally got isn't on Amazon anymore, but it looks exactly like this one: https://www.amazon.ca/Mudder-Personal-Calipers-Measure-Fitness/dp/B01B9EJBB4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484921416&sr=8-1&keywords=body+fat+tape (I didn't get the calipers).
Found it: https://www.amazon.ca/AccuFitness-MT05-MyoTape-Body-Measure/dp/B000G7YW7Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484921416&sr=8-3&keywords=body+fat+tape

This is the formula I use: http://www.calculator.net/army-body-fat-calculator.html

And this is the app I use on my phone to calculate and track everything: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.purewowstudio.bodycal

Here's a chart explaining the different ranges: http://cdn.builtlean.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/Ideal-Body-Fat-Percentage-Chart1.jpg

u/lefinale · 3 pointsr/xxfitness

I have experienced the same anxieties. If you are exercising regularly or incorporating weights into your program - try to only weigh yourself every week or two (on Sundays in the AM, for example.)

Also invest in some Measuring Tape to get a better idea of progress. The scale can be really toxic, but if you are paying closer attention to your measurements and how your body feels in general then hopefully the anxiety will lessen! Muscle weighs more than fat, so the scale can be pretty useless once exercise becomes more of your daily routine.

u/TheForrestFire · 3 pointsr/loseit

That's why I bought this baby off of Amazon a year or two ago. Even when the scale doesn't go down, my waist measurement very consistently went down. Now I try to only weigh myself once every two or three weeks, while I measure my waist every three days.

u/BATassMOFO · 3 pointsr/xxketo

invest in a myotape under $10 on amazon

u/PapaTua · 3 pointsr/keto

Get something like this: http://www.amazon.com/AccuFitness-MT05-MyoTape-Body-Measure/dp/B000G7YW7Y

I got one and it revolutionized my body measuring.. As long as you measure in the same place each time, it's quite consistent.

u/EvergreenBipolar · 3 pointsr/SilverSmith

My acetylene/oxygen tanks sit in a very compact plastic holder they sell with the bottles and take up no more than about one square foot of floor space. By the time you add the regulators and come up with some way to secure the disposable bottles, I don't think you will gain much extra space.

Do you already have hand held butane torches? For simple tasks with pieces that weigh less than a half an ounce, I don't bother to use my Smith little torch.

I use this one the most.

Blazer GT8000 Big Shot Butane Torch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCZU0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9-NDyb0PAVJR2

u/Popwar0012 · 3 pointsr/vaporents

http://www.amazon.com/Blazer-GT8000-Shot-Butane-Torch/dp/B000NCZU0A

I have this guy here, I'd imagine if you turn on low it'll work since "fuel efficiency" is your thing, has a big ass tank!

u/m6a6t6t · 3 pointsr/enail

but in the end you get what you pay for non annealed china glass, her tube is small is enough to convert with an adapter imho. adapter plus banger from dhgate maybe 20-30$ torch 40 at bb&b. i would honestly buy a big shot on amazoninstead. im not a fan of the bb&b torches the pizo ignitor ALWAYS fails after about 9 months causing you to have to return and get a new one id rather have something last 4-6years. i have had my blazer gb2001 for 8 years now still lights everytime.

u/Dr_Dabber_Drew · 3 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

You need a quartz banger, a directional flow carb cap, and a nice butane torch if you've got the extra money for it. A propane torch will work in its place will just mess up your nail quicker. Also qtip the nail in between every hit with q tips dipped in isopropyl alcohol to keep the nail as clean as possible. Will provide better dab experience. Look up "low temp dabs" on youtube, don't ruin your concentrates by taking hot dabs. Hope this helps, happy dabbin!

Edit: fixed link

u/RealGamut · 3 pointsr/Stims

Regardless of the advice you're given here, please be aware that choosing to smoke meth VS other ROA (oral/intranasal/plugging) may give you a massive compulsion to redose (and specifically, to smoke) that is stronger than any compulsion I've personally experienced from any other drug. If you are very disciplined and have conviction about managing the role of substances in your life it can be controlled, but be mindful that this particular choice may challenge that conviction more than any other use of drugs.

That said I fukken love smoking meth. Also fuck the bic users, torches for life. I have found through much experimentation (nearly $1000 on drug paraphernalia over a year) that the most effective way to vaporize meth is completely contrary to the advice commonly found on the internet. I place direct superhot torch flame on the bottom of the bowl (while rolling and inhaling) for a fraction of a second. This causes the flame to diffuse evenly across the bottom of the glass and the bowl to flash instantly with thick vapor. If I continue in this fashion until I cannot inhale any longer, the meth cracks back with zero discoloration or any other sign of burnt meth.

This requires a hot, high pressure, large diameter nozzle torch (relative to typical tweaker torches) to really work effectively. If you don't want to drop the dinero on a Blazer Big Shot but don't mind the bulk you can head to any hardware store and grab a basic propane pencil torch for $20. Even better if you buy a hose and sparker (sometimes included).

If you aren't looking for a personal challenge or potentially much more just eat or snort your meth.

EDIT: If you are sourcing your meth on DNMs, check out Pregabalin (brand name Lyrica). It's a GABA analogue with a duration similar to Xanax that is used to treat epilepsy and neuropathic pain, but it has a lot to offer a meth user. It brings a often needed element of "chill" to the experience without disrupting the high, and perhaps more importantly it almost completely restores the appetite loss from meth.

u/Elfking · 3 pointsr/Dabs

Do yourself a huge favor and ditch those tiny-ass torches for a blazer

u/thethinker247 · 3 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

BIG SHOT GT 8000 gets that nail where it needs to be in no time!!!

Edit here's a link: http://www.amazon.com/Blazer-GT8000-Shot-Butane-Torch/dp/B000NCZU0A/ref=cm_cr_pr_pb_t/176-5012220-3460966

u/gritsgear · 3 pointsr/EDC

I have the regular EAB,

https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-EAB-Pocket-Knife-22-41830/dp/B0016KHW2W

The design is ultra simplistic and really attractive. I am a trim carpenter so I don't usually wear a tool belt, (I can't have tools accidentally hitting cabinets) so this knife always rides in the little pocket of my jeans without ever being felt. If I need to do excessive cutting then I will bring a larger knife but for the smaller random tasks having a knife on you all the time is necessary and this does that perfectly. Holds the blades tight with a screw and is surprisingly not bad to open one handed. It's nearly perfectly flat and looks like a luggage tag. If the practicality isn't enough for you I challenge you to find a more attractive utility knife.

u/chewychubacca · 3 pointsr/EDC

Wallet $15 - big skinny

knife $10 - Gerber EAB

keychain $7.50 freekey

suspension clip $5 - tec p7 ripoff

Light - I don't have a good one for this yet. Can someone recommend a small AAA light with a power button (vs twist)? I have a twist one and it kept getting turned on in my pocket.


u/HeartofAce · 3 pointsr/EDC
u/getdamonkey · 3 pointsr/lego

I sort by a combination of color and piece using a three tiered system.

Tier 1 - Small Parts Storage
All of a given piece are put into a drawer at this point. As more drawers are needed, I begin to sort into colors. Once I fill 4 drawers, I move to Tier 2

Tier 2 - Stanley Cases
Most of my brick and plates are in these. Each has ten interchangeable trays so you can reorganize to have a case you can take with you for a given project. I mostly use the 10 compartment model but own a couple of the 25 compartment for things like 1x1 tiles that come in a large number of colors. Once one of the large compartments is full, I move to tier 3.

Tier 3 - Shoebox storage
Each of these holds 6.5 qts of brick which is equivalent to one Pick a Brick case from the LEGO store. If one of these gets filled up, I start a second one.

Most of my collection is sorted this way. I do use these for minifigs and plastic drawers for things like bionicle parts.

u/preacher37 · 3 pointsr/XWingTMG

I use these: Stanley 10 Removable Bin Compartment Deep Professional Organizer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G1CUK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_L5beTKfQnmA3X

If you keep the plastic holder, you can use the yellow boxes to stabilize it. Give me a few and I'll take some pictures.

u/Commanda_Panda · 3 pointsr/magicTCG

Ultimate Guard Boulders for the decks themselves.

Transport them in a Stanley 10 Compartment Professional Organizer. This is what I use to carry around my EDH decks.

u/Rudyralishaz · 3 pointsr/magicTCG

I suggest this to everyone, I've used mine for years and lately a couple of guys at my LGS have jumped on the train too. It's awesome.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B001G1CUK0

u/anonymouzes · 3 pointsr/LegoStorage

Organized using Stanley 25, Stanley 10, Sterlite 1961, Sterlite 1962 and ziplock bags. In the Sterlites I have all my 2xX's, 1xXs, "slopes" (anything with non-right angles on it) and "inspiration pieces" (unique pieces such as tower spires and ship hulls). In the Stanleys, I keep all other pieces organized as specifically as made sense. There's still some further sorting I can do in those (e.g. all studs are together, not separated by color), but this feels like a huge win.

u/Ten-K_Ultra · 3 pointsr/preppers

Good point, I misread your post. However, you can build a wood stove very inexpensively using a 55 gallon drum (strip the paint and use BBQ paint on it) and one of these kits

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IO6RAA/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

I also recommend doing some research on how these stoves work. A stove like this isn't technically meant for residential use, but if it's for emergencies you can make it work.

Just don't keep it inside normally because if you do have a house fire, your insurance will try to blame it on the stove even if you didn't use it.

A more expensive option is something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=mr+buddy&qid=1566929981&s=gateway&sr=8-1

You'd have to stockpile propane throughout the year

u/Wearsglasses · 3 pointsr/GoRVing

Mr. Heater F232000 MH9BX Buddy 4,000-9,000-BTU Indoor-Safe Portable Radiant Heater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nvL-zbF85BZ12

For when/ if electricity fails you. Whether it's a problem with your internal wiring, or an external lack of power. I keep this inside my rig all winter incase of emergency. One of those green propane bottles last 4-5 hours, so keep a couple bottles inside. It's safe to run in the trailer.

I bought my rig last November and went straight to Denver for all of December and January. I stayed totally dry for most of that until I got a heated hose and figured out a couple more tricks.

Keep a clean 5 gallon bucket inside, sometimes motivation or the time isn't there to make it to the gym for a shower. You can boil a kettle of water and use it to wash up.

You can also buy a hand pump for those primo water jugs which are quick, easy, and cheap to fill. Those make it easy to keep water in the place.

You can either wash dishes in a bucket and dump it outside, or you'll need to figure out grey water from the sink. It shouldn't be a problem to run a line out and dump it on the ground, you'd just want to watch the line to make sure you don't get an ice block in there.

If the outhouse gets old, you can look into a composting toilet if you have somewhere to keep it. Or a toilet with a "cassette" which you can dump in the outhouse when it's not -10 out.

Sometimes it's nice to have an option for anything you might need inside the trailer to get though cold days and nights.

u/antibubbles · 3 pointsr/vagabond

fix the transmission.
also i go for higher mpg minivans with all/most of the back seats removed. and ultra-tinting windows exactly up to the legal limit.
but... well any kind of freezing temperature is nuts. And michigan gets really really really cold.
I saw video of a guy doing it with like 6 layers of thermal underwear all sewn together at the ends.
Maybe insulate the walls of whatever you're gonna live in? depends on funds. You could staple-gun some insulation or even cardboard and thermal blanket layers to the wall of the truck.
I used to winter camp (in michigan) and we'd use a catalytic propane heater (similar to this) and insulate the tent with a bunch of moving blankets and emergency blankets layers up.


u/benlucky13 · 3 pointsr/vandwellers

depends on the model, but the 'cozy cabin' heater by dickinson marine uses a small pilot light that has trouble staying lit at altitude. others have a low-oxygen shut-off feature that can be tripped by thinner air. the mr. buddy heater in particular only works up to about 7,000 ft

I mention the cozy cabin because I spoke with dickinson about that model specifically in the past, I assume (but don't know) that their other heaters operate similarly.

their response to whether it works at altitude is:

"Unfortunately the cozy cabin will not perform well at altitude. It has a small orifice in the pilot light assembly that can not be altered and the unit rely's on the pilot light to keep the thermocouple active so when you try and use it at altitudes the pilot light become erratic and will not keep the thermocouple engaged and the heater will not stay lit."

they never gave a specific maximum altitude, but my original question to them asked about 10,000ft or more.

my suggestion is to first, get a natural gas detector if you don't already have one in the van. second, test it out at incrementally higher altitudes, only while you are awake. after a couple nights of no issues then if you feel safe use it while you sleep.

u/fidelitypdx · 3 pointsr/Portland
u/Batteries4Breakfast · 3 pointsr/TinyHouses

/r/vandwellers love mr buddy propane heaters

u/Kriscolvin55 · 3 pointsr/vandwellers

I can't imagine an oil lamp being safer than propane, not to mention the minimal heat. Oh yeah, and they don't burn as well, so you'll be breathing in a lot nastier air.

Honestly your best solution is a Mr. Heater. It's what I use in my van. It's super efficient, and super warm. No power necessary, just propane. You can use those little green 1 pound propane tanks, or hook it up to a 20 pound tank (that's what I do).

https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU

u/InevitablyChloe · 3 pointsr/airsoft

Goggles + face shield: I would recommend the Pyramex I-Force goggles. They are extremely light and dependable for all types of gameplay. For some reason, I can't make them fog (which is really good btw), and the price is pretty damn good too. Also, stay clear away from mesh goggles. For face protection, I would use a metal mesh mask. Any will do (I haven't seen any company screw up mesh masks yet).

Batteries: For a battery, my input would be to start with a 9.6v NiMH battery (you seem to already have one). If you know how to take care of them, upgrade to a 7.4v LiPo battery for the best performance. The 'C' rating should be around 15C if you are just beginning your use of LiPos.

Charger: For different battery types, it depends. A lot of people say that Tenergy Smart chargers work great with NiMH batteries, so I'll throw that on (feel free to correct me if there is a better one). For LiPos, I personally use a Turnigy Accucel-6, which has had no problems for me yet (again, please correct me if there is a better one).

Internals/Tools: I wouldn't say to open your GB yet if you aren't willing to devote some time. If you are, then I would say to pick up a set of allen wrenches/hex keys in multiple sizes, a set of screwdrivers in varying sizes, tweezers, pliers, wire cutters, Dremel, soldering iron, and a couple neodymium magnets (for keeping things in place, like ARLs).

The first things you want to upgrade (in my opinion, your build will vary) would be your motor and hopup bucking. Your motor basically drives the trigger response, rate of fire, and torque (ability to pull strong springs) of your gun.

A good 16TPA motor like the SHS High Torque or the ZCI Balanced will be good for most applications. They both have a good mix of trigger response and speed, and get you about 20RPS on a 9.6v NiMH, M120 spring, and 18:1 gears (results may vary). For higher torque builds (M125 and above), use a 22TPA motor for good trigger response and loss of fire rate. Do some research to find which motor is right for you.

Your hop-up bucking is one of the most important things to upgrade. Upgrade to a Prometheus Purple, Maple Leaf, or Lonex bucking for better consistency. In almost every application, flathopping the bucking is vital (you can search up how to flathop. there are plenty of articles out there).

BBs (Pellets): For your BBs, go with Elite Force BBs (.25s work for most applications). They are well-priced, and are some of the best BBs that I have used.

Guide: Search the forums and this subreddit. I don't want to type an essay, and it would do you much more good to search it up yourself (you learn more if you find it yourself instead of listening to me).

Maintenance: Refer to above, but do lube your gun every one in a while. (also research on how to do that).

A good 416 would be the VFC HK416 CQB, or the TM Recoil Shock 416 (can't find link sorry). Either are good choices and are relatively low-priced.

An AEG will serve you well. A well-upgraded AEG is dependable and cheaper to run than a GBBR. Most airsoft guns have Picatinny rails that can take real-steel attachments, so you're good there.

Do NOT get the 'discoveryline' one. It's not worth it. The two I mentioned above are the best, and will let you upgrade as you wish.

Best of luck!

u/PatientFlowCoord · 3 pointsr/airsoft

They are the Pyramex I-Force's. Inexpensive, variety of lens colors, anti-fog, and comfy. I like mine alot!

u/Eisenstein · 3 pointsr/vintageaudio

Well, if you can use the lab and it has a scope in it then you just scored big time.

As far as $100. I would get:

(amazon links for convenience, use any supplier you wish)

  • DMM (digital multimeter) - must have diode check, DC volts, AC volts, Ohms, and continuity. Extech EX330 ($50) or Equus 3320 ($20)

  • clip leads for the meter such as these - these are important because you will need to take values while the amp is on, and you don't want to be poking around a live amp

  • variable power/temp soldering iron - cheap one good one better one

  • 60/40 leaded solder - I like this kind

  • desolder braid

  • rosin flux

  • contact cleaner

  • (de-oxit d-5)[http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S6-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/]

  • flush cutters

  • solder sucker

  • shrink tube of various diameters

  • 92%+ isopropyl alcohol

  • windex

  • q-tips

  • paper towels

  • needle nose pliers

  • nice set of phillips head screwdrivers

  • standard screwdriver

  • miner's headlamp

  • digital camera for taking many many pictures before and during disassembly

  • printer for printing service manuals

  • heat gunor hair dryer

  • canned air


    EDIT: Light bulb socket, 100W + 60W real light bulbs (not the hippy engery saving kind), electrical outlet - these are for making a dim bulb tester.

    All I can think of right now.
u/uint128_t · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

That set up will do all right.

Helping hands are good, solder looks fine (although if you do a lot of soldering you'll burn through that quickly), and the wick is fine.

One other thing you should get is some flux (probably paste or liquid, maybe someone can recommend a specific flux?). Flux makes soldering a million times easier if the parts are dirty.

Soldering iron wise, that's an alright iron. The tip it comes with is fine for large/medium components. However, consider how much soldering you plan to do. Is it a lot, possibly on small things?

Both the Weller WES51 and the Hakko FX888D are both popular, quality soldering irons. Basically, the handles are smaller (easier to control and maneuver), and the temperature is regulated (more consistent/stable). Additionally, the range of available tips with the WLC100 is not as large.

In conclusion, that's a perfectly fine setup (with the flux), but think about how much you anticipate soldering in the future and considering a higher quality soldering iron. Hope that helps.

u/CanadianGandalf · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

I'm pretty new to soldering, but I picked up a Hakko FX-888d and love it. It's got 300+ great Amazon reviews and only costs $100. Any complaints I saw were about it being complicated to set the temp, but this was not my experience at all.

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-Soldering-Station/dp/B00AWUFVY8

Edit: Yeah, the color makes it look like a toy... But I assure you it is not.

u/Falcrist · 3 pointsr/EngineeringStudents

A calculator: TI36X Pro, Casio fx-115ES PLUS, or HP 35s (these are the 3 best calculators allowed on the FE and PE)

If you get a graphing calculator, either get the TI-84 Plus C (which can be used any time graphing calculators are allowed), or get an HP Prime or TI Nspire CS CAS (which are WAY more powerful and useful).

Pencils: Pentel Graphgear 1000, Pentel Kerry, Rotring Rapid Pro (include an eraser such as the Sakura Foam Eraser). The rapid pro pen is also pretty popular.

If he's doing a software/computer engineering degree, get him a copy of K&R2.

If he's doing electrical/electronics engineering, he'll benefit from a nice soldering station, a multimeter, or a used oscilloscope (such as a Rigol DS1052e).

I can't give much advise for mechanical and civil. Sorry.

Oh yea, the paper is useful... especially with some pressboard report covers. They make nice notebooks (albeit expensive), and pair really really well with looseleaf textbooks.

\
The HP is more expensive, but it looks like a tool that professional engineers use when they're not in front of a computer. I ended up getting an HP prime, so I never could justify a 35s

u/lukepighetti · 3 pointsr/DIEMs

Lots of great options. This is great if you change the temp a lot or forget to turn it off. This is great if you never change the temp (like me). This is great if you're on a tight budget.

u/amdcursed · 3 pointsr/OpenPV

My Aoyue lasted about 5 months, it was covered under warranty but all they did was send me a replacement board that I need another iron to install. Spend the extra cash and get a Hakko: http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-CHP170-bundle/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420504863&sr=8-1&keywords=hakko

u/eccentricworkshop · 3 pointsr/soldering

You certainly can use that soldering gun but it won't be fun or easy because it is so large (that's what I started with and used for a few years). I'd suggest picking up a Hakko FX-888D or Hakko FX-951 if you have a desire to continue with electronics.

Definitely add more solder because it has flux in it which will clean the oxides and allow the solder to flow out. You will also need to use a bit of solder wick/desoldering braid to clean up the pad before fixing it. You'll want to get some Kester leaded solder to work with.

Watch these Pace soldering tutorials before you begin to understand the basics. Heat the pad and wire then touch the solder wire to the joint. If you add it to the tip of the gun/iron the flux will burn away and it will start to oxidize. Doing it that way certainly has it's place but it isn't for this type of work as you'll need to add extra flux to protect the joint.

u/Leviathant · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

I used cheap soldering irons for years. Over a decade. I always felt like an idiot, because I'd watch tutorials online and it looked so much easier, and I just couldn't seem to get the process down right.

So this year, I decided to drop some money on a proper iron - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWUFVY8/ - and WHY OH WHY DID I NOT DO THIS A DECADE AGO. It makes ALL the difference in the world.

I cannot emphasize this enough: Spare yourself frustration, save up extra money and buy a Weller or a Hakko. It may seem like a lot of money compared to a $20 Radio Shack style soldering iron, but you're basically buying it for life.

u/_imjosh · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

This is my go to list for what you need for soldering:


hakko soldering iron w/ diagonal cutters $91

hakko diagonal cutters $4.37

solder $7

solder sucker $6

solder flux $8 check digikey

solder wick $7
check digikey

wire strippers $10

helping hands $7 check harbor freight

check for lower price

One of the hakko clone stations paired with some genuine hakko tips is probably a good compromise on price/value. Maybe someone else that's from the UK could suggest something different that's also affordable there.

u/draginator · 3 pointsr/MINI

This led light strip set turned into this when cut to size and soldered together for under the car installation. I'll upload a video I have of it installed on a car I did.

All for around $20 and looks amazing.

--

Edit:
Couldn't find the mini clip but here is the exact same light strip and wiring I did on another car a couple years ago. It only take me about 30 minutes to install under a car with the ramps I have. They are wired to a controller inside the car for led color.

u/k3vdizzle · 3 pointsr/hometheater

I would recommend this. You can cycle through any color, and it has a remote that you can use. The back of mine had ready to peel tape, so it would make mounting easier.

u/rolfraikou · 3 pointsr/DesignMyRoom

Ok, he's my still ghetto but much much less depressing method.

Sleep on the boxes, just cover them up with more fabric. $10

Get the hanging shit off the ceiling, it looks creepy. $0

Go to ikea, don't get a fancy desk. Screw those, they fall apart, and are more difficult to move if they stay together. They have a modular desk system. This is the main surface, and these cheap bastards are the legs.

Very easy to take apart.

Desk: $25 + tax. Let's just say $30.

Now get two or three of these LED strips. At $17 each, these things are pretty cheap. Don't use the adhesive on the back, it's meant to be permanent. Just use another method to attach them to your ceiling in a sort of back and forth zig-zag or S pattern.

If you got three of these, you have ample lighting in your room, two backup-up power supplies if one fails, and three remotes. Use two of those temporary "command-strips" to put two remotes on the wall, one next to your entrance, the other next to your bed, then leave the third as a regular remote. You can now control the lighting, and the entire color of your room from anywhere. I actually hung them slightly low, and pointed them at the ceiling, creating a sort of ambient lighting, and less glare from the individual diodes.

LED ceiling $51 + command strips, and whatever means you use to hang them about $60.

Posters are cheap. 3 posters from target = $22

A cool cube clothing organizer. This is also very modular, and has those doors to keep it from looking too trashy. $67

Put your guitar on this guitar stand. $15

If you have big headphones (I don't see any. If you use earbuds/iems then ignore this) then put this banana holder on your desk. They are perfect for holding headphones, and look cool while doing it. $12

At this point, I've gone slightly over budget it. My guess is around $216 total for all of the above.

Big comfy chairs are huge, and expensive. I suggest checking the free section of craigslist for something like recliners. Just make sure they're bug-free, throw those in there, and throw them away or give them away when you move.

I got lucky, and eventually got a pretty light comfy chair that I do actually move with me now, using this method.

u/SteevB · 3 pointsr/battlestations

Thanks! As for the lights, the ones behind the monitors is a 4 strip RGB LED kit from IKEA. However, I would just recommend going on Amazon and getting a kit similar to the ones I post below. The only reason I got the IKEA ones is because I worked there at the time and it was a little cheaper, otherwise I would have gotten the ones on Amazon since they are a much better option.

For inside the desktop, I bought a kit that is essentially the same LEDs I was talking about before, but instead they are adapted so that it plugs into a 4-Pin molex.

Computer Tower RGB Light Kit:* https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AZ4XX0E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
***
Monitor/Desk/Room Lighting: https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Waterproof-300LEDs-Flexible-Controller/dp/B00B2F3KDQ/ref=sr_1_7?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1465874461&sr=1-7&keywords=rgb+led+strip+with+controller

On a side note, these LED strips are great because they can be cut to size, and if you have extra left over you can just get another controller and remote to have multiple lighting locations. And if your'e handy enough, you can technically just make the lights for inside your case on your own. As long as you know how to solder that is.

Sory about the essay. Hope this helped!

u/bond2016 · 3 pointsr/malelivingspace

^ All of this ^

And as a little extra, they sell cheap RGB LED strips you could put on the floor, or anywhere really, to add some smooth ambient lighting

u/TripAndFly · 3 pointsr/ElectricForest

I powered a 16.4ft long LED strip for over 86 hours on 7 color shift mode with 8xAA batteries in a 12v RC car battery sled.

I tested it because I didn't want to have to create tons of garbage by burning through 60 something AA batteries over the weekend...turns out 8 of those suckers can last multiple festivals...or you can just leave it on all the time for one fest.

This is the LED strip I used

This is the battery sled

You'll need one of these to attach it to the controller

u/fecklessgadfly · 3 pointsr/teaching

I built some cheap lighting using these. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B2F3KDQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?qid=1408304220&sr=8-12&pi=SL75

They look really cool as underlighting on a desk or table. They're peel-n-stick and require no skill to install.

u/kineticsyn · 3 pointsr/battlestations

Thanks! That's correct, the strip is facing the wall.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2F3KDQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Very lengthy, great purchase, and strong/bright light. Definitely recommend!

u/copacetic1515 · 3 pointsr/CrohnsDisease

Do you have one of these? People keep recommending them on here and I think I'm going to get one. I hate to admit it, but I tend to have an issue with diaper rash. (Thanks, hemorrhoids!)

If you're having wet gas and worried about smells, it may help you feel cleaner and more confident.

u/whoop_di_dooooo · 3 pointsr/sex

Now 35. You know how Amazon prices can vary from month to month. Here's the model I have and it is great!
Luxe Bidet Neo 120 - Self... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JG2DETM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/SadConfiguration · 3 pointsr/unpopularopinion

You can buy bidets online that install on your toilet in about ten minutes.


Luxe Bidet Neo 120 - Self Cleaning Nozzle - Fresh Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (white and white) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JG2DETM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rTv3Db8N4V90K

u/Travels4Work · 3 pointsr/funny

^ This. Change your life for $35.

($47 if you have mysterious lady parts stuff that needs freshening as well).

u/pineapplepizzalife · 3 pointsr/AskWomen

Here it is! Really affordable and easy to install.

u/PM_A_Personal_Story · 3 pointsr/TwoXChromosomes

>hugs you are too kind! I tried googling bidets before but I don't understand. You sit down on a bowl of water and run your hands over yourself?

It's an attachment you put between the toilet seat and bowl. It shoots a jet of water to you underside and rinses, like a faucet for your bum.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JG2DETM?gclid=Cj0KCQiAtf_tBRDtARIsAIbAKe25IIV2ZOFdQypDC-VGqu96_Ah4xEfmjB5Xbo6o6scuqCcM0o3MJDAaAs3dEALw_wcB

u/ChefChopNSlice · 3 pointsr/HotPeppers

Putting them outside right away can be bad for a few reasons. They’re delicate and sensitive to intense light, changes in temperature, gusting wind, and predators. They do not have the strength or root systems in place yet to recover from any environmental stress. Unless you get very lucky with weather and the cosmos are aligned juuuust right, you might be in for a rough time. Getting leggy is definitely a possibility with them being inside and not having a grow light, but you can always bury the stems pretty deeply when you transplant them and are ready to put them out. Your window isnt ideal, but it’s probably still a better bet at this time. You can also find a pretty cheap grow light option if you have $ 15 to spare. Here’s an entry level fixture for a nice CFL grow bulb. It’s $10 on amazon prime with free shipping. You can also find these at the hardware store, or a discount store like big lots (I got em for 5-8$ there)

https://www.amazon.com/Woods-0169-8-5-Inch-Reflector-150-Watt/dp/B009ONXWC2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523460361&sr=8-3&keywords=Clip+shop+light&dpID=41EfPZ5XphL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Simple CFL grow bulbs in the 6500K “daylight” spectrum. 4 pack of bulbs for $15. You can look around for cheaper ones, but just try to find the highest wattage equivalent you can, at 6500K spectrum.

https://www.amazon.com/Philips-433557-100-watt-Equivalent-Bright/dp/B00M6SR1JM/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1523460444&sr=1-4&keywords=CFL+6500k&dpID=41aqLa5KpiL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

u/AnotherAccount636 · 3 pointsr/shrooms

These are what I use for my tubs. I do the Bods unmodded tub tek, I just place these directly on the lid. Depending on the setup or what tek you're following this would work.

::Edit:: What I mean when I say "I place these directly on my lid" I've got them in a deep dome fixture that sits on top of the lid, I don't just lay the light bulb up their haha.

u/haleyb33 · 3 pointsr/succulents

I got these light bulbs:Philips 433557 23W 100-watt T2 Twister 6500K CFL Light Bulb, 4-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M6SR1JM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_DzUQEygjjF5D6

And these clamp lights: Woods 0151 150-Watt Clamp Light with 8.5-Inch Reflector and 18/2 SPT 6-Foot-Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HHQ94C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_zblHwmbXUOgSL

I scoured the interwebs for this info and I'm hoping they give my plants some better lighting! I've got them clamped to some heavy square pots that are laying on their sides. It's a tiered shelf but the tier right above my plants would be too close to clamp the lights to and I think they'd get burnt.

u/VaporTrail_000 · 2 pointsr/airsoft

Yeah, low income can be a bear... but since you don't seem to be allergic to work, there are possibilities, even for the "too young" to work. Traditional stuff like mowing neighborhood lawns, less-so like dog-walking... or whatever.

Definitely rent first. Getting in to play the game will help you to figure out what role(s) you want to play when you do start buying gear and allowing you to focus on gear that lets you, as well as helps you, do what you enjoy.

Budget for your rental trips. Locally for me, a day's airsoft as a minimum rental is about $60US. That's $30 field fee, and $30 rental (covering mask/goggle, AEG, battery, and a single hi-cap mag. Additional mags and a chest rig can be rented for an additional $15, but usually, that's unnecessary. BBs are extra, ~$22 for 2700 rounds, (I use .32s and .20s are going to be cheaper) but you can save the ones in the bottle you don't use and use them on subsequent trips. All told, you're looking at about $70 per person, per trip. Once a month is probably a good rate.

Start saving now for gear if you can, don't burn gear money on rental fees if you can help it. Every dollar invested in your starter gear is going to (usually) improve the performance and longevity, especially in a gun, which will probably (and should) be your greatest single startup expense.

There are low-cost options for basic gear.
A set of Pyramex I-force goggles and a One Tigris foldable mask (or similar) can be had (collectively) for less than $50.
Condor makes some (at least in my limited experience) cheap but reasonably good quality gear.

My current cheap gear setup (less than $100US here, without shipping):
Pyramex I-Force
NO B Tactical Folding Mask w/ Ear protection (really a One Tigris knockoff, but it works)
Condor Modular Chest Panel
Condor Triple M4 MOLLE mag pouch

This setup, over street clothes, is functional and cheap, and I have personally had no major issuses with it. Minor issues include some condensation with the goggles (more "why am I staring through a fishbowl" water than fogging really, and that after several hours of play), and the mask straps loosening on occasion.

Changes I would have made looking back:
- Color choices on the mask, panel, and pouch. The olive drab I went with on the panel and pouch didn't match the rest of my eventual gear setup (black), which started with the black mask. Didn't plan that well enough. I would stick with a color (probably olive drab for cheap or Multicam for more expensive) if I did it over again.
- Should have gone with a set of three single pouches, rather than the triple. The ~50% (or about $10) increase in price would have been worth the increase in loadout flexibility. I seldom find myself needing six spare mags.

High dollar things you are going to want to budget for (at least eventually) when you buy gear:
- Boots. Regular street shoes are ok, especially indoors, but you really want to have a set of high-quality boots to play in, especially outdoor fields with broken terrain and obstacles. The ankle support and all-around toughness of a good set of boots are going to be worth the expense. Add to that the ability to switch out of your boots for the ride/drive home is great, especially playing outdoor fields where you might get rained on or have to wade through a building ( >1 inch deep puddles inside buildings, ISYN), and you'll feel a lot more comfortable doing so if you know you won't have to wear wet footgear home.
- Defogging system. I bought an ExFog system recently and ran it the first time last weekend (same time as the rain and indoor puddles) and I'm over the moon. Cleared up the condensation issues with the goggles I was having completely. I can't recommend this enough. But at >$75, it is definitely in the "luxury" category, so buy it when you can afford it, but consider it as soon as you can.

Something you might be able to get cheap:
BDUs/Combat Uniform. Old military combat uniforms and such can be found occasionally at thrift stores or places like the Salvation Army. Actual military uniforms are going to hold up great (even if they're not in perfect condition when you get them) and they are already camo. Much cheaper than buying them new, or buying civilian equivalents.

u/eyedwords · 2 pointsr/airsoft

highly recommend for these $15 goggles. amazon link

I have run them two days so far, and am in love with them. They are ANSI Z87+, comfy, and fit under my hat. ymmv with the anti-fog but i treat the lenses before i play and so far haven't been fogged out of a game.

first day with the new goggles I took a bb to the right lens from a player with a notoriously hot HPA set up from only about 25 feet and the lens was totally unmarked. it splashed sweat and dial soap off the lens into my eye which made it look like i had pinkeye, but that's a personal problem.

to be fair, I am one of the sweatiest people on the internet so my issues with fogging and sweat may not be relatable.

I was previously running some smith optics boogie goggles that looked very cool but would fog so bad I had to leave the field mid game more than once and those damn things were about $50. now i feel like i found my goggles.

lastly, just buy smaller gloves? is that an insensitive suggestion? i wear gloves in size small if that makes you feel better.

inb4 trump and or dick jokes.

EDIT: fixed link

u/Ferrard · 2 pointsr/airsoft

Materials aren't impact rated, eyepro is because part of impact testing is that it has to remain in place on your head, but that's besides the point. To put it very simply:

$15 for 16-Joules of impact protection backed by MIL-PRF-32432 impact standards, ANSI Z87.1 high impact standards, and Pyramex, an industry leader in PPE.

Vs. hoping that you selected a strong enough material, hoping that you built your homebrew mask correctly, and hoping that the field allows your homebrew mask (which any field worth their salt will not), backed by your personal, non-expert confidence in your own work.

You can't replace your eyes. Buy the freakin' eyepro.

u/vpv518 · 2 pointsr/airsoft

Turn 26 in 10 days, started playing 2 weeks ago.

I bought these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006WPSDXS?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

They've been great so far, pretty low profile and hasn't fogged at all either time I played (I'm a sweaty dude so that's pretty miraculous tbh)

u/noicedream · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

i'm gonna go with what everyone else says: get a decent temp adjusting iron. it makes a world of a difference...add to that a small chisel tip (usually not provided on a cheap pen iron)...such much easier and enjoyable soldering. though, its not worth spending 80-300 dollars on a soldering iron for one project..

i use/recommend:

  • an x-tronic station/iron $90 sponge+light/magnifier+tips+replacement heat element

  • a hakko soldering tip cleaner $10

    also another good affordable iron:

  • hakko fx-888 station/iron $90 sponge+cleaner

    everyone says weller...and its because they dropped the money on one and want other people to do the same haha...if you have the money, sure go for it. if not, many stations in the 80-100 range are excellent quality to begin on.

    also get a helping hand, tweezers, needle nose pliers, snips, and maybe a wire stripper.
u/murdurturtle · 2 pointsr/OpenPV

I bought this... works great. Heats up in like 30 seconds.

http://www.amazon.com/Digital-FX888D-CHP170-bundle-cutter/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1397606411&sr=1-2&keywords=hakko+soldering+station

a used hakko 936 or weller soldering station will work. also any decent weller pencil solderer will work.

u/schorhr · 2 pointsr/arduino

Well, an adjustable soldering station is the minimum, and there are a few $20 soldering stations that are OK for occasional use; For $80-$100 you'll get something that'll last a lot longer :-)


http://www.amazon.com/Electronix-Express-0603DZ99-Soldering-Continuously/dp/B00IOVN0SQ/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1463187980&sr=8-17&keywords=soldering+station / http://www.amazon.com/MPJA-Mini-Solder-Station-ZD-99/dp/B008B86XOK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463188072&sr=8-2&keywords=soldering+station+mini

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWUFVY8?keywords=hakko%20fx-888&qid=1444332307&ref_=sr_1_2&s=industrial&sr=1-2

You can even get soldering irons for under $2 at Aliexpress. Enough to occasionally solder two wires together; But especially the cheaper soldering irons have horribly build-quality and tips that don't last long. :-)

Also, i recently bought a small tip no-name one for school use, http://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Station-Solder-Adjustable-Heating/dp/B017VYC9GU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1463188072&sr=8-3&keywords=soldering+station+mini (I don't know if this one is actually identical), which works surprisingly well (at least better than the $20 ones).


For your child: http://mightyohm.com/blog/2011/04/soldering-is-easy-comic-book/

.

Electronics: Really do get "getting started in electronics", such a good introduction, the comic-y drawings make it easy to understand how and why electronics work.

u/league_of_fail · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

The Hakko FX-888D runs $100 on Amazon.

I bought this one for $30 and found temp settings in the reviews. Setting marker 3.25-3.75 gets you right around 350°C, coincidentally.

I also bought that cheap-ass Valstar solder sucker with free wick. From what I read about the wick, it needs flux to get the solder flowing into it. The solder sucker sucked. I ended up taking a Dremel deburring bit to create a divot in the metal housing to capture the little arms so it wouldn't spring apart when I hit the plunger release. After that, it worked pretty well, though I usually got a pretty good seal right over the solder and switch leg - no desoldering controllers. I did have one switch leg that was bent over the contact, which required some physical assistance to move while the solder was melted before I could clear it.

Desoldering wick looks like it works great and would work for your situation, if you use it right.

u/tttanner · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

I have a Hakko FX-888 and I love it. I don't think you should worry about a digital or analog display.

u/Thwop · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

If you already own a couple of customs, go Hakko or go home.

Pick that up, and some small gauge Kester 63/37, and you're good to go.

u/a455 · 2 pointsr/arduino

You can't go wrong with a Hakko FX-888D soldering station, about $100. It's good quality, hard to kill, and he will use it.

u/insta · 2 pointsr/Reprap

Heated PCBs are hard anyway because they are a weird combination of heatsinking and thermally insulative. If you are ever going to solder a second thing, just get a good Hakko or something. I have the analog version of the linked iron, and love it. I leave it at 350C constantly ... it gets to temp in like 20 seconds and holds it rock solid.

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-CHP170-bundle/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421772043&sr=8-1&pebp=1421772044939&peasin=B00AWUFVY8

Also:
http://www.amazon.com/SRA-Soldering-Flux-Low-Solids-No-Clean/dp/B008OC0E5M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421772121&sr=8-1&pebp=1421772121985&peasin=B008OC0E5M

I'd highly suggest you plunk down and get both. You'll feel like a wizard from now on with soldering. For the flux pen, just drown your connections, wire, pads, etc in flux before soldering. Within a very generous reason, you cannot overflux things, and it makes the solder actually behave like it should. It globs where it's supposed to, doesn't make those stupid little peaky points that bridge everywhere, and so on.

u/puddsy · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-Soldering-Station/dp/B00AWUFVY8

the hakko fx888d has been the standard for budget soldering irons for years

u/TwinkleTwinkie · 2 pointsr/Defcon

I agree with pretty much everything said here except I prefer a different iron:

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-Soldering-Station/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501705119&sr=8-2&keywords=hakko+fx888d

Hakko FX-888D. Not inexpensive but not the most expensive either. One of the best irons I have ever worked with, was a night/day experience compared to prior cheapo irons I'd used in the past.

u/falgorr · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I used these guides to help plan and build this.
https://docs.keeb.io/build-guide.html
https://github.com/nicinabox/lets-split-guide

I got the majority of my keyboard parts such as the diodes, case/plates, pcb, and TRRS jack/cable from keeb.io, and sourced the pro micro and switches from mehkee.

The Let's Split and the Nyquist are basically the same, but instead the Nyquist has the extra row, allowing numbers to be on the base layer.

Before starting the build, you'd want to get an adequate soldering iron. I didn't have the funds to get a Hakko FX888D when I got into this with my Clueboard, so I instead bought a Station 60 and a 2.4mm Chisel tip to replace the included tip. Don't forget the solder wire! I used some old solder wire that I found laying around, but something like Kester 44 63/37 solder wire will serve you well. Fairly thin solder wire around .031" will be adequate, but some people use thinner ones; it's all preference. Just avoid lead-free solder, they are a pain to solder with. If you think you will mess up, I recommend either getting some soldering wick or a desoldering pump. I heard that desoldering irons are also pretty good, but I never tried one to give a proper opinion.

Then you want to check out a tutorial regarding soldering, if you don't know how to do it already. I learned from EEVblog (warning: it's a lengthy video!), but you can probably find some other video about it.

After you have all your parts and double checked the parts list, you can start building. It's pretty much just following the guides step by step. The Let's Split guide that I linked is the most detailed for the build process, but the official Nyquist one seems to still be under construction at the time I am writing this. If you have any trouble, you can contact bakingpy here on reddit or on keeb.io, or just make a thread here or on /r/olkb. Someone will help answer your questions!

Without the keycaps, I spent around $75 on the project. Overall, around $150.

Edit: cost

u/Dropouter · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/Call_me_Deth · 2 pointsr/Multicopter
u/theoneyouenvy · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Probably used a kit like this. Same one I have and works great.

u/Fel1 · 2 pointsr/DIY

it doesn't bother me at all while playing, but if they do its a 1 button press to turn them off -- which i do when i watch shows/movies.


My LED Lights Here

u/djrubbie · 2 pointsr/AnimeFigures

I personally use Supernight's 5050 LED with this controller, and looking at amazon.ca I found this listing but unfortunately it's sold out there (amazon.com listing is up however). If you must get from amazon.ca try this listing which seems to be a similar type of kit.

Basically, you can use the accompanied pre-applied adhesive (by peeling off the protective cover) and tape it under the case. If you want to connect multiple shelves you can either just string them awkwardly, or cut at the cut marks (they are spaced every 5cm, there are indication lines) and then use these adapters with connector cables or just solder it yourself.

I really need to post an update to my cabinets but I haven't had time, but this one is an older picture of my case. Note how I just kind of stringed it through, but with my second cabinet (replaced the one in this picture) I will be doing them per shelf. Now if I have time to actually get this done, I should post updated pictures.

u/tme2av8 · 2 pointsr/battlestations

SUPERNIGHT 16.4FT SMD 5050 Waterproof 300LEDs RGB Flexible LED Strip Light Lamp + 44Key IR Remote Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B2F3KDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kowMxbSG477DN

u/Zimphyr · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Amazon. Cheap and reliable. I turn them on practically every night and they have lasted me about 6 months so far!

u/Retrosmith · 2 pointsr/pcmods

I recommend this strip personally. Used it in a mod for Quakcon a couple of years back and loved it. Programmable colors, lets you save up to four different color profiles plus change them in several minor stages in each tint. Different flashing effects if you're into that also. Plenty of length and easy to work with,

u/L_DUB_U · 2 pointsr/buildapc

http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Waterproof-300LEDs-Flexible-Controller/dp/B00B2F3KDQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420497003&sr=8-2&keywords=led+strips

I bought these and use them for a green fishing light. They run off of 12V and VERY VERY BRIGHT! Get one with a lesser LED count per roll and I think they will work great for what you want. You can also cut them at certain lengths if you need small sections and not the full length.

I recommend this very much but if you will be looking directly at them they will be VERY bright and when you look away you everything will be purple (at least with my green LEDS).

u/eso_logic · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I actually harvested the LED strip from a kit that includes a remote so you can change it to whatever color you want. Pretty cheap too!

u/mx_Seattle · 2 pointsr/DIY

This is absolutely not what you asked for, but is AWESOME for this type of stuff. $15 (with prime) and you have a remote control, colors, patterns, and more. I have used multiple kits now for all sorts of stuff!

http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Waterproof-300LEDs-Flexible-Controller/dp/B00B2F3KDQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1427122039&sr=8-3&keywords=rgb+led

u/N30FAMOUS · 2 pointsr/gadgets

The price of the listing you linked is ~$24 USD, which translates to ~$31 CAD. On amazon canada, I found this listing, which is ~$33. Plus, I'm pretty sure shipping to Canada from the US site would be more costly than just getting it shipped from the Canadian site.

u/angoosbeaf · 2 pointsr/ultrawidemasterrace

All lights are turned down to lowest setting.

sources:

  1. Desk: 16 ft strip. Cheap [ebay] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2F3KDQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) RGB kit. Also ordered L connectors.

  2. Acer x34: RGB lights on monitor set to red.

  3. RGB mouse and keyboard: Ripjaw and Corsair

    4)PC:

    -5 Thermaltake Riing RGB Fans set to red

    -EVGA FTW Hybrid GTX 1080 RGB set to red

    -Asus z270g Strix MB RGB set to red

    -Corsair h115i Radiator RGB set to red

    -NZXT Hue 3 magnet RGB strips set to red

    -Corsair Vengeance LED DDR4 3200 - RED
u/IntHatBar · 2 pointsr/malelivingspace

These LED Light Strips are a lot of fun. Not too expensive either. They would look really cool if you put them behind a piece of art or crown molding.

u/AreYouAMan · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

After reviewing everyone's comments, I think I will try out an attachment first and see how I like it, and upgrade at a later date based on my experience. Right now, I am leaning towards the Luxe Bidet Neo 120 since it has a self-cleaning nozzle.

u/GoAskAlice · 2 pointsr/fatpeoplestories

Fuck wiping her ass, install a bidet, you can get one for forty bucks on Amazon, and they are super easy to install. All you need is a wrench and a screwdriver.

Edited to add this link; this is the one I have. Keep in mind that the water isn't heated, and in the winter, nothing wakes you up quite as fast a a jet of icy cold water on your butt, haha.

u/friendofsmellytapir · 2 pointsr/Showerthoughts

You can buy a bidet that fits under the toilet seat and all the fittings needed to install it yourself for less than $40, my father-in-law is obsessed with them and has installed them on his own toilets and for his kids at college in their dorms/apartments. This is what they look like

u/koalafied_human · 2 pointsr/DMT

Haha, I'm glad I could be of some help! Also if you really want to be a super pooper, get yourself one of these bidet attachments. I picked one up a couple months ago and it forever changed my views on pooping. It's like a power washer for your anus. I can't recommend it enough.

Also if you plan on snagging one, don't bother to get the hot water version. That's because the hot water has to heat up first just like how your sink works because it's tapping off the same line. You get used to the cold water version and don't even notice it after the first couple uses.

u/Derp_Stevenson · 2 pointsr/TrollXChromosomes

I never thought it would be weird, I just thought they'd be expensive and never got around to looking into them. Last week I saw someone on reddit mention a nice affordable Luxe bidet I could get on amazon for under $40, and I figured why not pull the trigger. It was super easy to install, and it seriously is the greatest home improvement purchase I've ever made.

It's like washing your butt in a shower after every #2, just dry with a little bit of toilet paper and you're done. Amazing!

This is the model I bought if you're interested in looking at reviews and what not: https://www.amazon.com/Luxe-Bidet-Neo-120-Non-Electric/dp/B00JG2DETM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499879011&sr=8-1&keywords=luxe+120

u/CajunVagabond · 2 pointsr/AskWomen

Or buy a great $35 bidet and save hundreds on toilet paper! Best DIY quality of life purchase I've made, took 10 minutes. Especially helpful certain times of the month.
Ever get your hands really dirty and try and wipe them clean with a dry paper towel? Didn't think so.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JG2DETM/ref=twister_B00KRO5XLA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

u/turkeypants · 2 pointsr/hotones

Those are the nice ones. There's another category of budget ones from like $20-60 all over Amazon from a hundred Chinese clone companies. They're hit or miss on quality as the reviews show, but I figured they're so cheap, why not give it a try. It has been great. The nicer ones offer better options, heated water, aerated water, air dryers, fancy remotes and all this, and that would be great but I don't want to pay for it and my hot water line is across the room from the toilet, so a cheapo is fine for me.

I got this one and it has been great. People in the reviews talked about it blasting your starfish skin off and wow they weren't kidding. The pressure twisty knob on this one is an illusion - realistically there's only Off or Peel Paint. So I got one of these twisty valves to go between the bidet hose and the main water pipe so I could fine tune the pressure to more reasonable levels and that has been great. You want some pressure to get that stuff off of you but not so much that your proctologist runs out of the room crying.

Wet butthole cleaning is the only way to go, the only way that makes sense, and sometimes it's nice to just let it run while you contemplate things and see if any more wants to come out. Toilet paper lasts forever now because you just need a couple squares to dab dry.

u/trollbocop · 2 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

bidet

Thank me later.

u/KungFuHamster · 2 pointsr/keto

I believe this is the one I got. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JG2DETM

Whenever I buy anything on Amazon, I sort by average review scores and get the best that isn't unreasonably higher priced than the others.

u/pokingoking · 2 pointsr/AskAnAmerican

I have this $35 one from Amazon.

Yes, it's cold water. It comes from the toilet tank.

The pressure it produces is .... fucking ridiculous. It has four little dots on the dial to indicate low or high flow. I've had it for a year now and I still can't even get to the lowest setting without feeling like my asshole is being ripped apart. I have to put it between "off" and the lowest one. So if you're worried about it not being strong enough, let me quell that fear right away. I literally cannot fathom anyone needing the high setting. It would probably make me bleed.
And yes, after you use it you use a small amount of TP to make yourself dry. I've seen other people say they use a washcloth for this since you're theoretically clean at this point. I maybe would do that if I lived alone but I'd feel weird having a reusable butt wipe in my bathroom that other people would see. I definitely recommend them. Overall probably the best $35 I've spent in the last 5 years.

u/MichaelCayne · 2 pointsr/shrooms

I use a Phillips Grow bulb and a clamp lamp, but that’s because I’m growing my mushrooms in the same room I’m growing my weed, and that room is locked down like Fort Knox against light.

But indirect sunlight should be just fine, my friends growing mushrooms in her craft room/office, and her tub’s only getting indirect sunlight and they’re doing fine. Bod even tells you that sunlight isn’t necessary, mushrooms just look weird apparently without any.

u/m0h3k4n · 2 pointsr/SpaceBuckets

Not really a lot of watts. Looks like a review showed it pulling 17w. LED lights should provide 40w/ft^2 that one would be providing about half that. For about $10 more you could get something like these CFL bulbs and these cords. This would give you 92w of cfl. You would want a bit more ideally but it dwarf the 17w off the LED.

u/FireproofCabbage · 2 pointsr/succulents

My set up is pretty basic at the moment, I have a simple desk lamp with a daylight bulb in aiming down at my plants. I can't find the bulb I'm using online, but it's very similar to this one: https://www.amazon.com/Philips-433557-100-watt-Equivalent-Bright/dp/B00M6SR1JM/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1511785806&sr=1-1&keywords=philips+6500k
I'm currently in the process of hacking two Ikea desk lamps to hang above the shelf I'd like to display my plants on. I'll post pics when it's done! :)

u/amaranth-kate · 2 pointsr/succulents

Looks like it would be okay; it meets all the requirements. I was recommended this light which has lower power but higher color temperature:
Philips 433557 23W 100-watt T2 Twister 6500K CFL Light Bulb, 4-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M6SR1JM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qHo.zb94TSHWD

u/fallenumbrella · 2 pointsr/succulents

Philips 23 watt 6500k CFL bulbs (you can also pick these up at your local home improvement store): https://www.amazon.com/Philips-433557-100-watt-Equivalent-Bright/dp/B00M6SR1JM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=philips+23+watt+cfl&qid=1550422990&s=gateway&sr=8-3

And don't forget clamp lamps: https://www.amazon.com/Woods-0169-169-Clamp-Light/dp/B009ONXWC2/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=clamp+lamps&qid=1550423123&s=hi&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1

​

Depending on how much space you have for a decent setup, you might want to consider T5 light bulbs and fixtures if you want more even distribution of light. I find that I have to put all my succulents together under or around the the lamp in order to get good growth and stress colors out of them. As long as the light bulbs are on or around 6500K (cool white light) then your plants will get the right amount of light that they would get if they had some sunlight.

u/jasonsowder · 2 pointsr/RVLiving

These work well especially when boondocking (and a great backup when no 120v is available)

u/TheFlyingDharma · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

Air out as normal and run the heater for a minute?

u/UpvoteIfYouDare · 2 pointsr/Drama
  1. Your keys should not take up a whole goddam pocket.

    B) Leatherman Squirt PS4, motherfucker (or the Leatherman Style PS if you fly often like me)

    Slim wallet and keys w/ multitool in left pocket, cellphone in right pocket. Accomplishes the same thing without looking like a NEET.
u/fathergoat_adventure · 2 pointsr/CampingandHiking

At first glance...

Check out this NatureHike sleeping bag. 24oz's and is great for summer camping. It's good down to maybe 50-55 degrees, but will cut 1.5lb from your pack during the warmer months.

Leatherman and a folding knife? Why? Check out a leatherman squirt at 1.9 oz. I've got one and I love it. This would remove nearly 12oz.

That hammock is heavy. I DIY'd one for $35 and it only weighs 7.5oz. Or, pick up a dutch hammock for 7.3oz (though, this is a little more expensive at $42). This would save another 12oz.

These three would save 48oz or a full 3 lbs!

u/Yoshi9031 · 2 pointsr/EDC

As much as I hate to say it get a multi-tool and do it before move in day. If you have a screwdriver, small knife, and a bottle opener the very first week you will meet more girls than you would believe.

Take it everywhere you can class/party/library. I would go for the Leatherman 10/10 times.

https://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-Squirt%C2%AE-PS4-Multi-Tool-Black/dp/B0032Y2OT6/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1468813697&sr=8-9&keywords=leatherman

I'd go blue will be a lot less "scary" to the ladies.

u/TheEyepatchCat · 2 pointsr/EDC
u/jsamhead · 2 pointsr/EDC

Great! That's super helpful. Looks like as far as knives go, your best bet is to stick with knives that don't lock OR require two hands to open. Since you're a minor I'd abide by both actually, and stick to a two-hand open knife without a blade lock. Fortunately, that's fairly common on multitools that are great for EDC.

My favorite small multitool is the Leatherman Squirt PS4. A more budget-friendly alternative would be a Gerber Dime. Each of these are a fantastic EDC multitool. The Leatherman is especially capable. I use mine all the time. If those won't work for you, you can't go wrong with a Victorinox Swiss army knife and I think they're availible pretty much everywhere.

As far as a flashlight goes, I suggest one that's USB Rechargeable. That makes it really easy to recharge and always have plenty of battery. The most EDC frieldly USB rechargeable light I know of is the Streamlight Microstream USB.

I don't know if those are availible in Germany or what they cost over there, but that should give you some ideas.

u/forceofrabbit · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

This watch is a fun (for eight year olds), practical, and very affordable Christmas present. This costs more but looks pretty slick and is automatically set to atomic clocks via radio, which is pretty damn cool when you're eight.

This Leatherman is a little pricey for what it is but little boys love multi-tools, Leathermans are great multi-tools, and it comes with a pointless knife (as in, there's no sharp tip) that you install yourself, in case you don't trust your child with knives (I may or may not have a scar from using my Leatherman Micra in a really stupid way when I was 10) or your kid will definitely take it everywhere, including their school which has a zero-tolerance/thought policy on pointy objects. (If you have no problems with knives, the Squirt would be my first choice for a mini-multitool.)

This book is pricey for a single book but I had the old version as a kid and it's still one of my all time favorite books. Highly recommend, for a kid interested in technology.

u/Buixer · 2 pointsr/EDC

All 3 of your items seem like winners but here are some other options:

Leatherman 831195 Squirt PS4 Black Keychain Tool with Plier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0032Y2OT6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ipLOub1HMS951

Leatherman 831925 Juice S2 Multitool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJY4ZZO/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_YqLOub1KN62CQ

Nitecore Tube 45 Lumens Blue USB Rechargeable Key Chain Flashlight with Lumen Tactical Keychain Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OY9TH16/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_isLOub1Z83R8W

Victorinox Swiss Army Signature Lite Pocket Knife, Sapphire https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Y7XR3K/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_UtLOub1FPPN01

Foursevens Atom AL Stainles Steel Finish / Cool White LED; 1xCR123A; 110 Lumens https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HDP0JQ0/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_5uLOub0F2HBEK

Spyderco Persistence C136GP Plain Edge Knife, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IWWYS4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_5wLOub1Q2CA1D

Cold Steel Tuff Lite Plain Edge Folder Knife https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006YBW6MY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_UxLOub0PWZ3YF

u/LenoxAsa · 2 pointsr/EDC

Here's a few I've seen

http://www.countycomm.com/cc4.html

http://www.countycomm.com/grab&gokit.html

https://huckberry.com/store/huckberry/category/p/17781-stealth-edc-kit-android

http://www.countycomm.com/stockingstuffer.html

https://huckberry.com/store/huckberry/category/p/16217-edc-kit-2-0

Or, you can just buy all the things you would want on Amazon, it'll come in 1 or 2 boxes. Here's a few choices to put together a "kit"


This or this for flashlight.

This This, or, This For a multitool depending on the size you want.

This or This for knife (Note: I am not a knife person, I have a Squid and I like it and I've heard good things about the Kershaw Chill)

Exotac FreeKey System




u/Legorobotdude · 2 pointsr/EDC

Leatherman Squirt: $32.95

Sleekish wallet: $17.99

Thats all I really need, but I usually keep a larger knife or multitool on me as well

EvoGrip 18: $29.99

Wingman: $29.99

Edit: You could also grab a Skeletool or Wave off Ebay for ~$35 like I recently did

u/steveXray · 2 pointsr/EDC

Items listed below with links in case anybody is interested:

Persol Sunglasses https://amzn.to/2H6piK2

Leuchtturm1917 Hardcover Dotted Journal https://amzn.to/2EAFcL8 (I try to journal daily)

Distilunion Card Minimalist Card Wallet https://amzn.to/2XqUc5z (This is probably the best slim card wallet i've every had. Hard to beat)

Seiko SKX013 https://amzn.to/2Ube5vt

Parker Ink Pen https://amzn.to/2ECKvK6

Leather Journal Cover https://amzn.to/2Xrsg1w (I love the smell of this thing! ha)

Explore Notebook https://amzn.to/2EBETje (This notebook is more of a to-do list v my daily journal. Helps me stay organized)

Leatherman Squirt https://amzn.to/2H708eu (This thing always comes in handy)

Mophie Powerstation https://amzn.to/2T8dqP7

Kershaw Clash https://amzn.to/2SvSbkV

iPad Air 2 https://amzn.to/2UbA99j

iPad Air 2 Keyboard Case https://amzn.to/2H3fn80

Speck iPhone 7Plus Case https://amzn.to/2H7YEAj

iPhone 7Plus (Not Pictured) https://amzn.to/2SvrvAD







u/HoneybadgerOG1337 · 2 pointsr/airsoft
u/Mcfly56 · 2 pointsr/airsoft

With the battery and charger you have on there they don't match. you can't use a nimh charger on a lipo you'll blow it up.

If you're going to use a lipo battery I use this charger

https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Cells-Li-PO-Balance-Charger/dp/B004FGWY54/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1510907253&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=airsoft+lipo+charger&psc=1

also with that battery it will only work if your gun is front wired (the plug for the battery is in your handguard) if its rear wired it wont work because you need the battery in the buffer tube.

as far as the gun sack you can pick up a hard rifle case at walmart for under 25$ and it will keep your rifle safe and you can lock it with padlocks if you'd like

I also really wouldn't recommend a paintball mask either cause they usually fog unless you get a really nice one like a dye i4/i5. they are also almost impossible to aim down sights with. I use arena flak jaks as I just pop out the vents and they never fog and you can get cheap replacement lens on ebay

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arena-Flakjak-Tactical-Eye-Protective-Goggles-Tan-Airsoft-Paintball-Tactical-New/253221912379?epid=1001535811&hash=item3af533bf3b:g:sNEAAOSwCmNZxI2I

others recommend the pyramix goggles as they are lower profile but I just find it easy for them to move off my eyes by just moving facial muscles

https://www.amazon.com/Pyramex-I-Force-Sporty-Anti-Fog-Goggle/dp/B006WPSDXS/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1510907577&sr=1-1-spell&keywords=pyramix+i+force

with those if you want lower face protection most people recommend the one tigris as it makes it easy to aim down your sights

https://www.amazon.com/OneTigris-Comfortable-Adjustable-Protective-Available/dp/B01MTS1611/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1510907635&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=one+tigris+mesh+mask&psc=1

bamf mags I've heard many different things on them so i guess it just depends on your gun if they fit they will be good if not kwa k120s, g&p skullfrog, and pts epm are all good mid caps and those go in order from least to most expensive

u/Jomaan · 2 pointsr/airsoft

Sounds like they might be doing it for insurance and liability reasons but that's a bit backwards as full mesh face protection isn't the safest thing around. Definitely wear a set of properly rated full seal goggles underneath it, such as the Pyramex iForce goggles.

u/Jayvee5000 · 2 pointsr/airsoft

I wonder why nobody knows about these (probably because vtac took em and slapped their name on it)

Pyramex V2G

Pyramex I-Force

Pyramex Highlander

I own these, highlanders, and I-forces. None of them fog, ever. If I had a million dollars for every time these fogged on me, I'd still be broke as fuck.

Don't waste your money on ESS's and Revisions. The prices on these bad boys are unbeatable.

u/DangitDave · 2 pointsr/airsoft

Spare Goggles

I like this brand to keep as a loaner. I keep 2 spares in the duffel in case mine goes down or if the a player forgets his/hers. Inexpensive, dual pane + anti-fog only kills out if you are pouring sweat, and fits asian faces very well.

Handheld Fans
Great for warm or humid days and you can't take off your gear to cool down. I keep a G&P Distress marker fan on me to cool down between rounds.

Electrolyte Gel Packs
Great for keeping cramping and general dehydration down. Gatorade works too, but I keep these in handy for people who only drink water all day and begin to look flushed.

u/748g · 2 pointsr/shrooms

Just be careful not to set a fire in the closet lol.

https://www.amazon.com/Philips-433557-100-watt-Equivalent-Bright/dp/B00M6SR1JM

These don't get very hot

u/mirasypp · 2 pointsr/succulents

It would depend on your space, but I have clamp lights with bright white CFLs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M6SR1JM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_za9PBb89MW8HR (I'm on mobile - sorry for no formatting) and most plants are doing great with it. There's only one Echeveria that's etiolated but that's because I have the lights very high. Investing in a cheap grow light will be good for when winter comes.

u/_Zhitan · 2 pointsr/succulents

I'm from the US so idk if it's different, but this is what I bought when I was starting out :


https://www.amazon.com/Philips-433557-100-watt-Equivalent-Bright/dp/B00M6SR1JM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=phillips+6500k+light+bulb&qid=1573495163&sprefix=phillips+6500&sr=8-2

It's not great. It's the cheapest way to go, but this will not give your succulents stress colors. It should be enough to get them through the winter though. You'll probably have to use all 4 bulbs.

u/zydrateaddict23 · 2 pointsr/bettafish

I don’t do anything special I don’t think, it could be my lighting maybe? But that’s just these lights

u/Closetmedicinegrow · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

What's your maximum investment for now? Are you in any sort of hurry to flip to flower?

Right now I'd totally recommend grabbing some 6,400Kelvin temperature bulbs (like these), they're usually labeled as "Daylight".

Flower bulbs would be more in the 2,100K range or "soft white". I recommend as much wattage as you can afford, honestly, keeping in mind the price for sockets, etc. The ideal wattage you want to aim for is 75watts minimum per plant, the higher the better, preferably 100-150w is more ideal.

The reason I say they need some time under the 6500K is they're very lanky and tall, if you were to flip them now, you'd be very unimpressed with the results versus if you were to veg them under proper lighting for another month-few months and did some LST.

When it comes to flower, it's ideal to have more wattage than you did in veg, I.e. a lot of growers go from 250w to 400w, 400w to 600w, etc. My best advice is to get as much as you can afford, and preferably if you could build them some kind of box or use a closet, that would help tremendously allowing you to use reflective material or flat white paint to better increase your lumens per sqft and its availability to your plants to make actual use of.

If you plan to make this a hobby like I did, I bought some panda film for like $15 on ebay, layered my wardrobe opening with it, cut a hole for the exhaust at the top (first starting out I used a 200MM PC fan + an old laptop battery lol) and two holes each the size of the exhaust at the bottom as my passive intake, worked great as a cheap makeshift growery :)

u/StigbickDickson · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

Go for these (same 4-pack of lights, just different retailers):

Amazon

Home Depot

For any type of lighting you'll want blue spectrum (6500k) for seedlings/veg and red spectrum (2700k) for flower.

u/LittleElectric · 2 pointsr/succulents

Look at the specs of the light. You need 6500k for color temperature and at least 2000 lumens. You can use any light it doesn't have to say it's a grow light. Bulbs can works but will probably need a deflector to focus the light on the plants.

Here's some i can recommend:

Bulbs 1

bulbs 2

LED light

4 foot long lights

2 foot long lights

another 2ft-er

u/woopthrowawaytime · 2 pointsr/succulents

I've been using these! This guy is directly under one of the bulbs. I have two for my entire collection.

u/CASTorDIE · 2 pointsr/Twitch

DAYLIGHT bulbs. Either CFL (compact florescent, or LED) 85 to 100 watt equivilent (but it will use way less power), inside of a softbox or two set above eye level and wide if possible :). Kinda like this

u/TheDivergent1 · 2 pointsr/cannabiscultivation

Yeah I’m sure but I bought them in store at Walmart and I no longer have the box unfortunately. & Ok I’ll be sure to upgrade.

These are the CFLs I bought though.
Philips 433557 100-watt Equivalent, Bright White (6500K) 23 Watt Spiral CFL Light Bulb, 4-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M6SR1JM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_695TCbYFX2TAH

I’ll just use them for something else I guess.

u/themonthofmay · 2 pointsr/succulents

Totally doesn't have to be LED. I'm a newbie and don't want to invest too much if I end up failing hard and keeping succulents alive. Do those clamps hold well? The reviews on Amazon aren't great regarding a heavy bulb.

What are the pros of that bulb over this bulb?
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M6SR1JM/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

u/Grem1389 · 2 pointsr/succulents

I have been working with some succulents since August. The one I began with is an echeveria (I believe) in the teal pot, and I'm not sure what the others in the red pot are (my friends gifted these to me).
The gifted plants have stretched a great deal since I received them, and I'm not sure if I should propagate the leaves and take cuttings from the top. (I took the top from the echeveria and it seems to be doing quite well! - in the gray pot). I also have leaves I am attempting to propagate. One from a different plant entirely that has grown plenty of roots, and as I just removed it from having its roots in the soil, I noticed it has begun to grow tiny little leaves. (This was not the case as of three or so days ago before I placed the roots under the soil).

The others aren't doing as well. I have sprayed the roots only, daily, of the mystery leaf, but I have stopped recently after reading about dry methods. Should I be doing something differently? (Should I continue watering it? Should I place it back on top of the soil?)

They are in ceramic pots with a drainage hole in the bottom. I typically water the established plants one to two weeks, or I can wait longer if the soil is not completely dry. The leaves are in a plastic smaller tray with soil, and a drainage hole in the bottom.

The potting medium is a prepackaged cactus mix with added perlite.

All of the plants are situated in a west facing window (I don't have a lot of ability to put them anywhere else). I purchased a bulb that was referenced on a blog, and the echeveria seems to be doing fine, but the others in the red pot are stretching a lot. Link to bulb being used

I also have some little buds growing from the stalk of the echeveria I began with. Is it time to remove and replant the largest one? It has little roots!

I'm looking for identification of mystery plant, advice in regards to the stretching/propagation issue, and any advice on the leaves that I am attempting to propagate. Thank you so much for any and all help!

Link to photos

This is the first time I've posted something like this, so if I need to clarify or fix the links, please let me know! Thanks! :)



u/Bobosmite · 2 pointsr/succulents

I've been using three of these for a few months and it's the only light they get. They've all been growing nicely without any problems.

u/succulentdan · 2 pointsr/succulents

So far I've had pretty good results with this bulb, haven't owned it too long but the 5 plants i have under the 2 bulb + reflector set up i have seem to be doing well so far

u/dropsofclover · 2 pointsr/succulents

The grow light that I use is Philips T2 Spirals in these lamps. I don't use the clamps though; I just put them directly over my plants using a metal rack about 6 inches above my plants.

u/TheSecondTier · 2 pointsr/buildapc

The most popular ones I've seen are the following:

NZXT Hue+: expensive, fancy, super customizable

Cablemod Widebeam: Tons of different options based on what you want, they have different colors, lengths, and mounting types as well. The magnetic RGB one is pretty close to the Hue+ while the basic strips are much cheaper but less customizable.

Bitfenix Alchemy 2.0: Very similar to the Cablemod ones, they come in various lengths and colors. No RGB options but can be fairly inexpensive.

Some good vidyas about them here and here. Hope this helped some.

u/Soprohero · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Thanks! I love the case. Awesome design and form factor. Made building in it as a first time builder a heck of a lot easier to because I can just be lazy and just stuff all the cables in the back where no one will see.

Edit: Oh and I got the light strips from here http://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Hue-Advanced-Lighting-AC-HUEPS-M1/dp/B018YZ0H1O

u/stavn · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

is there anything comparable to the NZXT HUE+ but maybe a little less expensive? something that can do different colors and be programmed from the computer like the hue +

u/quaser99 · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

They have adhesive and you can put it on anything. It comes with a remote to change colors or flash different ones, or anything you could really want. I was talking about this one specifically but one of the most popoular ones is the NZXT Hue+

u/Diabeticninja1 · 2 pointsr/battlestations

I'm tellin' you guys, invest in a nice NZXT Hue+, it'll change your life. Make it easier too!

https://www.nzxt.com/products/hue-plus
https://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Hue-Advanced-Lighting-AC-HUEPS-M1/dp/B018YZ0H1O

u/Max_01 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

NZXT Hue+ will set you back around £50 and some cheap RGB strip will set you back around £11. I personally use the cheap kit I linked above and it works fine but it's very basic - best to use if you just want one static colour - the effets it comes with are pretty basic and not very well done imo...

u/spicedpumpkins · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

I bought

This mobo

with

This case

Ram and Air Cooler and This Lighting kit and These fans x3 for back and two on top

paired with MSI Gaming X 480 8GB gpu so that everything matches.

Yes overkill for this cpu but fuck it, I love the color scheme. I'll just benchmark the system and throw in a Kaby i5 7600K for the real CPU intended for this build right after and use the G4560 for an ultra cheap build I will gift to my son's friend so they can play some games together.

u/Neox420 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

i kinda like the look of it, but do you really need that rgb? Or do you need that wi-fi adapter? The only reason why i would buy it is because of the overclocking features. But thats your choice. Oh, and if you want rgb i would recommend https://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Hue-Advanced-Lighting-AC-HUEPS-M1/dp/B018YZ0H1O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1539176569&sr=8-4&keywords=hue%2B&th=1 best kit i've seen.

u/tallmanchub · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Yeah... don't get that other build. Last gen CPU that needs to be OC'd to realise its potential, a cooler that isnt compatible with your case, a turd tier PSU and no white in sight.

So that case you have isn't really the best, and if money is no object, there are far better available that might also look better and will be a lot more functional, as well as having more room for RGB fans. Nevertheless you said she's bought it so the build below assumes that you do want to use that case. It also assumes you are using the fans it comes with - so I'm not really sure where you want to add the extra corsair RGB fans. That case only has 3 fan slots - 2 front and 1 rear, and 1 front and the rear are already occupied with the fans it comes with.

If you do decide not to use that case let me know and I'll change the build accordingly. Here are some examples of better cases:

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/G78H99/phanteks-case-phes515etggs
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Z9p323/nzxt-s340-matte-whitepurple-atx-mid-tower-case-ca-s340w-w3
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/vghj4D/phanteks-eclipse-p400-tempered-glass-atx-mid-tower-case-ph-ec416ptg_wt
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/TJyxFT/corsair-carbide-400c-white-atx-mid-tower-case-cc-9011095-cn
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/F28H99/nzxt-ca-s340w-w2-atx-mid-tower-case-ca-s340w-w2
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Tpp323/nzxt-h440-matte-whitepurple-atx-mid-tower-case-ca-h442w-w2

Also you could look at smaller cases if thats something you think she'd like, here are some good ones:

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/vDqbt6/nzxt-case-camantww1
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/NnL7YJ/phanteks-case-phes215pwt
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/VMLypg/fractal-design-case-fdcanode304wh

All of these are a similar kind of aesthetic but others are available, have a look here where I've set the filter for case colours of white/silver/purple.

https://pcpartpicker.com/products/case/#c=35,36,38,62,64,66,82,83,87,89

u/Du6e · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

If you want to go with the C70, you'll only have to swap out the X61 Kraken to a 240mm AIO. Something like this.

As for LED's, the NZXT Hue+ is probably the best kit you can get if you want a lot of control.

u/fulton1 · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Dont be silly you arent bothering me, i like to help out where i can, the hue+ is actually the name of the controller box that the leds plug into, in the kit you get 4 led strips, the hue+ controller and all the cables/ extensions (it uses sata or molex, (i can't remember to be honest) to power it and connects to the motherboard via the usb 2.0 header

I will link the kit below, hope the information above helped!

UK:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Computers-Accessories/NZXT-Colour-Changing-Internal-Controller/B018YZ0H1O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1491900239&sr=8-4&keywords=hue%2B

USA:

https://www.amazon.com/NZXT-AC-HUEPS-M1-Hue-Advanced-Lighting/dp/B018YZ0H1O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491900246&sr=8-1&keywords=hue%2B

u/MasterChiefKing · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $458.00 @ Shopping Express
CPU Cooler | Corsair H115i 104.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $163.50 @ Skycomp Technology
Motherboard | Asus SABERTOOTH Z170 S ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $339.00 @ PCCaseGear
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | $119.00 @ Centre Com
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $209.00 @ Storm Computers
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $64.00 @ Shopping Express
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | $699.00 @ Mwave Australia
Case | Cooler Master MasterBox 5 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case | $99.00 @ CPL Online
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $129.00 @ CPL Online
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $2279.50
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-07 17:15 AEDT+1100 |

For LED I recommend getting Nzxt Hue+ Advanced. White motherboard + white case with RGB LED will look so pretty.

u/Wigriff · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

As others have said, and LED light kit would be awesome for anyone. I like the NZXT Hue+.

u/Its_gill · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/CPJMMXIII · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I've read reviews that you can daisy chain up to 5 fans on Hue. I'll know for sure when they arrive in the post tomorrow!

EDIT: "Group and daisy chain up to 5 fans per channel from the HUE+ for extensive lighting modes that work in perfect harmony." https://www.amazon.co.uk/NZXT-Colour-Changing-Internal-Controller/dp/B018YZ0H1O

u/OneStrangeOnion · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

The NZXT Hue+ is my personal choice as it can be controlled through NZXT's custom software, CAM

u/rootbeerfetish · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You mentioned future proofing and the Ti does that for sure, it's up to you but I'd find a way. Also I'd recommend getting the coolest all black case you can afford and buying some green lighting for it separately. Bitfenix has some LED strips in different colors you can get on Amazon pretty cheap. Or you can buy the Hue+ and change the color to literally what ever you want depending on your mood at that time. More expensive though for sure. If you ever get tired of green there's no going back when you buy a case that accents it for you lol.

u/weetsy69 · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | £319.50 @ Aria PC
CPU Cooler | be quiet! Dark Rock 3 67.8 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler | £47.63 @ Amazon UK
Motherboard | MSI Z270 GAMING PRO CARBON ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | £144.72 @ Amazon UK
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LED 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | £102.38 @ Aria PC
Storage | OCZ TRION 150 480GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | £114.99 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | £64.41 @ Ebuyer
Video Card | Zotac GeForce GTX 1080 8GB AMP! Edition Video Card | £572.79 @ BT Shop
Case | NZXT S340 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | £81.99 @ CCL Computers
Power Supply | Corsair RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | £88.97 @ Amazon UK
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | £1537.38
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-02-22 22:24 GMT+0000 |

Pink themes are hard to find unfortunately so I went with all black but with this (https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Computers-Accessories/NZXT-Colour-Changing-Internal-Controller/B018YZ0H1O/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1487802148&sr=8-6&keywords=hue%2B) you can have as many pink leds as you want! If you can hold off buying until early march then do so and see what Ryzen has to offer. Other wise this should be it! I would also suggest buying a 1440p monitor to fully take advantage of the GTX 1080

u/Sbdall · 2 pointsr/DIY

I've put these up. They're bright af:

(Pack of 6) Barrina LED T5 Integrated Single Fixture, 4FT, 2200lm, 6500K (Super Bright White), 20W, Utility Shop Light, Ceiling and Under Cabinet Light, Corded electric with built-in ON/OFF switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HBT3BVM/

u/basshead_queen · 2 pointsr/succulents

These are the lights I have in the picture :)

u/amras3 · 2 pointsr/homegym

Looks great!

I bought these for my garage and it was the best investment ever!Especially in the winter. Suuuuper easy to install and lots of installing options, either strung together or individually.

(Pack of 6) Barrina LED T5... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HBT3BVM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/writemeow · 2 pointsr/hydro

If you only grow greens then I always recommend these (Pack of 6) Barrina LED T5 Integrated Single Fixture, 4FT, 2200lm, 6500K (Super Bright White), 20W, Utility Shop Light, Ceiling and Under Cabinet Light, Corded Electric with Built-in ON/Off Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HBT3BVM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_EDN6BbD2J5E4T

They're affordable and provide a lot of light, they work great for leafy stuffs

u/Black_Market_Basil · 2 pointsr/hydro

Yep.

I run them for 16 hours. Things were struggling for a bit (that could have been a combo of things) but when I added mylar to the front things took off. I just started another rack with a "nursery" space where the lights are much closer. Those are growing about twice as fast as the original one.

https://www.amazon.com/Barrina-Integrated-Fixture-Utility-Electric/dp/B01HBT3BVM/ref=sr_1_3?crid=35RVOJTLYQCAN&keywords=barinna+led+t5&qid=1559125327&s=gateway&sprefix=barinna%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-3

u/GSPilot · 2 pointsr/hydro

Based on another Reddit users recommendation, I have a 6-pack of these on the way for the shelf/tower I’m building for growing greens.

lights

u/throwawheyaccwtf2 · 2 pointsr/IndoorGarden

> Actual blueprint

Great, you make my plans look like something an orangutan would wipe its ass with...

I must tell you there is no guarantee 5000k will work better, in fact I get the easily tightest growth from 4000k LED. 6500K fluoro made for wide plants but not nearly as tight, it demanded more real estate with wider leaves + longer stalks to spread them out.

Fluoro and LED are different of course, fluoros have wide spectrum always and LED is divided into almost pure RGB spectrum (like lasers)


I'm telling you, the plant under MH 250 watt at 5500 kelving gave me good fast growth compared to the LED (only using ~35%of the LED strip output tho) but fewer nodes! Much more air in that plant.

MH is its own technology, with its own spectrum, but it seems the color of the light source has an overall say in plant BUILD more than growth SPEED and I've seen it in every single plant I've grown, they all seem to respond the same within their species capabilities.

4000k LEDs got a lot tighter nodes and darker colors. It's in week 8 flower and STILL NOT YELLOWING, my bigger plants with more soil look starved for nitrogen in comparison.
5000k+ can work if you have few plants and want the few, atlas sized leaves, if you want more species and individuals the 4000K is going to keep it thin and shorter and tighter spaced plants. 3000K works but I wouldn't look at anything but the most efficient lights in your case (which in most LED cases is 4k)

of course hard to guarantee I don't really know shit, but something of this sort.


Quantom boards with 60 degrees would be a problem no?


The arduino stuff is over my head so can't calculate for that, But know what I would want to do, Have LEDs around the frame and back light the leaves, maybe less efficient for some plants, may look better in warm white, who knows. A ring of low intensity back light would be cool.

So many factors, my head hurts, your ideas seem sound however.

My old strips are kind of like these, but less efficient and more expensive (and can still grow serious dope)

https://www.amazon.com/Barrina-Integrated-Fixture-Utility-Electric/dp/B01HBT3BVM

Maybe try 5000k, but make it a third priority, I'd invest in efficiency, lower price and the known tight build of ~4000k LEDs first and foremost

But take into account I have not browsed all specs and prices on QB and COB options and my selection is very limited out of EU.

Good luck with that build tho I'm loving it. I had a shit ton of plants not long ago but ran into health issues and now building back up to a comfortable, low maintenance indoor environment.

u/shitty_owl_lamp · 2 pointsr/succulents

OP here. At someone’s suggestion on this subreddit, I bought these lights on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HBT3BVM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. I put all six of them a few inches above my Echeveria and keep them on for 12 hours each day. I know from past experience that Echeveria Afterglow will IMMEDIATELY flatten out if it doesn’t get enough sun, and I bet if I put it outside tomorrow it would tighten back up. So that must mean my grow lights aren’t strong enough, right?? I can’t keep them outside because I live in Phoenix, Arizona, where our 120 degree weather will kill them. I’m just trying to get them through the summer by bringing them inside. Does someone have stronger grow lights they can recommend? Price is not really an issue for me.

u/izzabellyoch · 2 pointsr/succulents

Does anyone have thoughts or experience with these grow lights?
What are your preferred lights for the best price for a larger collection?

https://www.amazon.com/Barrina-Integrated-Fixture-Utility-Electric/dp/B01HBT3BVM/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=6500k+led+light&qid=1571371822&sr=8-6

I have a very large collection that I’ve accumulated most of over the last few months and need to buy many of this type of grow light or a few large ones. I’m not sure if I’m going to do a table(s) or shelf setup or a combo of both. Any and all thoughts and advice welcomed and appreciated.

u/t2231 · 2 pointsr/woodworking

For an inexpensive and easy to install solution, check these out: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HBT3BVM/

A 6-pack for ~$50 is pretty darn cheap. They put out a good bit of light and will really light up a basement workshop very well.

u/robotbiker121 · 2 pointsr/DIY

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HBT3BVM/

There you go! I would really like to have attached it to the house, but I will be building a carport that will attach to those stairs in the future. There is a drain to some sort of basin. I poured 5 gallons of water down it without issue before proceeding to tear down the cover.

u/IDezine · 2 pointsr/succulents

I do have them just to give a few things in the window a little extra push. But, you would be better off spending just a little more and getting these t5's... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HBT3BVM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

u/SeriousLloyd · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I had the the same issue with my 1070, I have the same case as well. I used a gpu brace from coolermaster, and it works really well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IQCBKOI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_a9FNybJH77XKS

u/Anergos · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Since your card isn't flat you can't get a brace, you'll need to get a GPU holder like this. That's if you don't feel confortable with the sag.

u/Gottaminit · 2 pointsr/24hoursupport

If that card is heavy enough to warp itself like that, you should install the bracket (hopefully came with the card) if not you can find the one I use for my dual card setup (also works with single cards)

While hooks and dental floss may work temporarily the do not have the same support evenness(?) Means you are pulling up on the end and not supporting the whole card.

Good product -I use it - It looks neat -like a little tripod

https://www.amazon.com/MasterAccessory-Universal-VGA-Holder-MCA-0005-KUH00/dp/B01IQCBKOI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498916078&sr=8-1&keywords=COOLER+MASTER+UNIVERSAL+GRAPHICS+CARD+HOLDER+FOR+ALL+SIZE+TOWER+CHASSIS




u/SirBrohan · 2 pointsr/nvidia

I hope this works, but I bought a VGA holder from Cooler Master: https://www.amazon.com/MasterAccessory-Universal-VGA-Holder-MCA-0005-KUH00/dp/B01IQCBKOI

My Xtreme shows up next Monday, so I can't confirm whether or not the card holder actually works (can't see why it wouldn't). Reviews are positive, so seems solid.

u/Ambrosial · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Have the same card. I got a GPU stand to prop it up. MasterAccessory Universal VGA Holder (MCA-0005-KUH00) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IQCBKOI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FHVTzb53NTDS1

u/VTN17 · 2 pointsr/nvidia
u/mr_bumsack · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

FYI I did some reading and these cards can sag quite a bit sometimes. I might be picking up one of these

https://www.amazon.ca/Cooler-Master-MasterAccessory-Universal-MCA-0005-KUH00/dp/B01IQCBKOI

u/EldeederSFW · 2 pointsr/buildapc
u/BruceCLin · 2 pointsr/buildapc

VGA Holder by cooler master. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IQCBKOI/
The card seems to dip about 2mm and there are plays if I push by hand, so just in case I got this.

u/badon_ · 2 pointsr/flashlight

Rechargeable AA batteries exist. You don't have to choose AA batteries or rechargeable batteries. You can have both in AA batteries. The lights I always recommend are AA Zebralights, but they're above your budget. If you can stretch your budget, they are worth it, and I recommend this one:

u/moomoo_potato · 2 pointsr/flashlight

Zebralight H53c

Thank you for doing the giveaways! Maybe scale back to every 5/10k mark?

u/lilchia · 2 pointsr/flashlight

Thank you for this giveaway!

A Zebralight H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI would be awesome!

u/m0neywise · 2 pointsr/flashlight

Thanks for the giveaway. Zebralight H53c

u/FuckleNut · 2 pointsr/flashlight

Thanks for the giveaway!

u/Plamobot · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

I second this. I bought a 3M respirator from Amazon (this one I think), and it's worked great. Looks like I need to change my filters, though; didn't know about the 30-day limit. (I've only used it about eight times, for a few minutes each, so I'm way under the forty hours of use limit...but if it's whichever comes first...it's been well past a month.)

u/Pippers · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Also of these: http://www.amazon.com/3M-Paint-Project-Respirator-Medium/dp/B00004Z4EB/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1410819278&sr=8-2&keywords=painters+mask+3m

Even if you are just using acrylics, you will need one. You will also be sealing your models, too, which are usually lacquer based.

u/cursious · 2 pointsr/AskReddit

Here's what I would do...

Buy a respirator

Turn off the water to the house. Drain the pipes as best you can.

Rip out the tub and the tub walls, including the faucet and handles on the tub. Throw them away.

Clean up any mold you find now that the tun and walls are out. Soap & water and a brush will do.

If there is any wood work that's falling apart from water damage/mold, you may need to get help... It'll unfortunately cost more than you have, but the alternative is for the house to fall down. Hopefully it's not too bad.

Buy one of these and one of these and a few tubes of silicone bathtub sealant.

Now, you'll need some help putting the tub in if you've never done it before. Possible someone here is local and can lend a hand.

It'll end up costing about $800-$1000 - I tried to get you as close to $600 as I can...

u/Sporkwonder · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I could not agree with you more. I bought this [respirator mask] (https://www.amazon.com/3M-Paint-Project-Respirator-Medium/dp/B00004Z4EB/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482934910&sr=8-3&keywords=3m+respirator) and it works really well even with my full bushy beard and is super comfortable.

Remember it may state that it is non-toxic but that is when you are using a paint brush.

u/notapantsday · 2 pointsr/hoarding

Honestly, this is a shitty thing to have to do. You should make it as easy for yourself as possible. Get something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Paint-Project-Respirator-Medium/dp/B00004Z4EB/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449263583&sr=8-1&keywords=respirator

The active charcoal filters actually take away a lot of the smell while the particle filters make sure there's no danger from aerosol particles (can be an issue if noro or rota are involved and also if you're dealing with rodent droppings). I have one like that (different brand) and it's well worth the money. Much more effective and more comfortable than the standard dust masks. Plus, it looks badass.

u/curberus · 2 pointsr/Luthier

Haha, fair enough. Worst case scenario you get it down to bare wood hate it and you can paint it something else. Hopefully you like it. You never know what to expect on those.

with the heatgun, dont do it till the paint comes off on its own as that will for sure burn the wood. Just pick an area maybe 1/4 to 1/8 of the face of the guitar, and heat it, keeping the heat gun in motion. As the paint gets soft, scrape it off with a putty knife. Once its mostly off, it will be easier to sand the oddball remnants off, probably with 180 grit or so using a hand sanding block. Then hit it with 220, 300, and maybe up to 600 if youre just going to oil it.

Also, for the love of all that is toany, get a respirator. You can get a decent one for $25 on amazon, I use this and it works quite well.
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Low-Maintenance-Half-Mask-Respirator-Assembly/dp/B00004Z4EB/. Also do this outside.

All in all, If the paint isnt scraping off easily it needs more heat, but always err on the side of farther/more motion than less, and dial in the distance slowly so you dont burn the wood.

Good luck man!

u/crackrox69 · 2 pointsr/IAmA

They can actually be pretty cheap and not too cumbersome.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Low-Maintenance-Half-Mask-Respirator-Assembly/dp/B00004Z4EB/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367544994&sr=8-1&keywords=respirator

I've used respirators for a lot of projects involving volatile organic solvents which emit vapors with molecules as small or smaller than the fumes coming from dead bodies and I can't smell a thing. And they get a decent amount of life out of em.

u/NWVoS · 2 pointsr/DIY

From the pictures it looks like you are wearing a simple mask like this Home Dust Mask. If you have another project involving tile or dust like it, or a friend has such a project you should wear a better mask. One like this one would work, and this one would work even better and be more versatile.

On a side note, I bet the dust got to the refrigerator's compressor.

u/papyjohns · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

how often do you guys change the filters of your breathing mask? I use

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z4EB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and was wondering how often you guys change the organic filter? I seem to get some irritation everytime I use it and was wondering if its the filter expiring or what.

I painting with tamiya spray cans

u/Hvstle · 2 pointsr/Airbrushing

I think it's cool you want to pick up a hobby your father had. It will be a nice reminder every time you pick up the gun.

I use this 100% for miniatures, and it works great!!

​

Alright, here is the list I bought. It's a bit more than you want to spend, but this will ensure you can get going right away, and not be frustrated. I did a fair amount of research on different forums, sites, and youtube videos. If you want to know why I chose something, feel free to ask. I was going to bold the ones that you absolutely need, but I would say everything in the first set are a must.

​

u/i_is_surf · 2 pointsr/DIY

>I would like to know if a normal dust mask would be fine during the sanding, what respirator to get (any brand, but would prefer 3M), and if any filters would be suitable for use during the whole process.

  1. Yes.

  2. Based on other's suggestions I purchased this one: 3M R6211.

  3. Yes, the one I linked above is approved for: Particulate matter (dust from sanding, sawing, grinding, sweeping etc.); Odors from chemical strippers, stains, varnishes, paints, pesticides, etc.
u/kirbydanger · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Use these:

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Peltor-H10A-Optime-Earmuff/dp/B00009LI4K/

No real complaints. They are comfortable, cheap, and make very loud things fairly quiet.

u/Degru · 2 pointsr/headphones

If you want to "solve it once and for all" as you put it, the best option for you is the Etymotic ER4SR. The triple flange tips on these will block out EVERYTHING and I really do mean everything. The only thing that will beat these is custom IEMs which are way out of your budget.

Another option I recommend to people is getting a set of these and wearing them over cheaper but less isolation IEMs like 1More Triple Driver. Blocks out just as much noise and is possibly more comfortable, though you do look a little dumb wearing them.

u/PlNKERTON · 2 pointsr/headphones

I see what you're saying now. I think what would work even better is some basic noise blocking ear muffs like this: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Peltor-H10A-Optime-Earmuff/dp/B00009LI4K

Only $20, and if you've ever put a pair of these on you'll be surprised at how well they block out sound.

u/Evinceo · 2 pointsr/autism

Over-ear: these are fine.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Earmuff-Protectors-Hearing-Protection/dp/B00009LI4K

In ear: I usually buy store brand 33db foam ones, probably similar to these:

https://www.amazon.com/Flents-Quiet-Contour-Plugs-Pair/dp/B00IZCHYH2

​

u/taytron09 · 2 pointsr/premed

Ah man, I will not tell you what to do or not to do with your life because it is your life. But if there is that one part of you left that still wants to go to med school then I will give you this advice that might help.

Get some earmuffs when you study for the MCAT or take the practice tests or the real MCAT. Lucky for you they have the earmuffs to cancel noises in the testing center.

My first 3 months of studying for the MCAT, I didn't understand anything. Sure I can just read but it would just goes straight out off my head. I even studied at the library too, super quiet. You don't even know how many times I wanted to give up. Then break was on and the library closed and I couldn't go there anymore. Studying at home was a no go for me because of all the noises associated with being home, e.g. Tv, my parents talking. After a night of sleep, I woke up and thought, why don't I get some sort of noise cancellation devices. I tried out these earmuff and from there on, my life changed. I understand >90% of what I read from MCAT review books. I went on and studied for the MCAT that I took yesterday. It was hard, but doable. Also, English is my second language so I'm at a disadvantage compared to Native speakers already.

Take home message: buy the earmuff and use it to see improvements on your scores, and possibly other improvements in your life. Read the reviews on amazon for the earmuff if you don't trust me. They have med and law students backing that thing up.

u/anotherusername123 · 2 pointsr/AskReddit

i'm currently searching on reddit and a popular one is this: (http://www.amazon.com/Peltor-H10A-Optime-Over-Earmuff/dp/B00009LI4K)

but it's so cheap...

edit: uhh wrong link.. (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826501005)

u/forgetcolor · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Loud is an understatement. It's like standing next to a jet. I tried one out using both earplugs (these with an NPR of 32) and then, in addition to those, hearing protection earmuffs (these, with a NRR of 30). Even with all of this hearing protection I found the unit to be very loud. Afterward I needed to rest my ears, not listen to records.

From reviews, I know many of the RCMs are loud. I doubt they're this loud, but, as you'll read here, some people don't find them to be as bad as I did. But if you're concerned about noise, this isn't the unit to get.

I'm hoping the Pro-ject might be quieter. I'd really prefer to have an all-in-one unit. Otherwise I'll probably get the KAB EV-1 which I can use with my quiet Miele home vac.

u/NinjaCoder · 2 pointsr/DIY

I use these for this type of work (such as hammer drilling concrete). I have at least 5 pairs, I leave them all over the shop/house/garage so that a pair is always available.

I am not a fan of the "jam it in your ear canal" hearing plugs, as they get pretty nasty in a short time, and my ears always feel terrible after a day's use.

My neighbor is an audiologist and she told me some good advice: the best hearing protection is the one that you will actually use. Meaning, if you get the top of the line earplugs, but you find them uncomfortable, or inconvenient, you will end up not wearing them.

A 30dB reduction from 91dB is more than enough... 60dB is considered "normal conversation" sound levels.

u/NeptuNeo · 2 pointsr/LosAngeles

Just remember, you are not stuck. Maybe you can't move tomorrow, but you can work tomorrow towards moving. Figure out ways to generate money, move forward, save as much as you can, and make it happen, you deserve it. And while you are doing that, find short term solutions for today's issues. Can you make a lateral move and rent a room somewhere else in the area away from sirens and the current situation? Check, regularly, rooms open up all the time, find something better. Is the owner as unhappy as you, is he working to kick the trouble maker out? Put some locks on your door, and when the sirens are driving you nuts, try these, they are amazing Sound Cancelling EarMuffs

u/fromkentucky · 2 pointsr/Bushcraft

Get a Bahco Laplander or a Fiskars hatchet. I have both and they compliment my ESEE 4 well. Plus, they aren't very expensive. I'd recommend the hatchet, since the Izula isn't really big enough to split wood.

u/mornsbarstool · 2 pointsr/CampingandHiking

Assuming you don't have a bunch of pre-sawn logs just hanging around, a folding saw is the answer. I bought a Bahco Laplander a while back and every single time I use it I fall in love with it. I've gathered camp firewood for years, but this just changes the entire game. It's like a goddamned bandsaw, and I'm the motor. It's beyond belief. Get one. Also, it weighs a fraction of what an axe does.

u/Fuckenjames · 2 pointsr/Bushcraft

I'm not a folding saw guy, but if this is the saw you're talking about I don't see why you'd want to save just $10 with a product you're not familiar with. Doesn't seem like enough of a value over the one you know will be good.

u/lamarkia · 2 pointsr/Survival

I have a Gerber multi-tool Suspension GE22-41471. I like it but it's pretty heavy for its size and, as others have said, you don't need half the tools in the wilderness.

Go Outdoors have a selection. Might be cheaper on Amazon.

I have a folding saw which is light.

You could try a wire saw. I haven't tried one myself.

I find my folding trowel very useful.

Don't get this trowel - it's flimsy

I also have a bushcraft knife. I'm not sure it's legal to carry around (UK) all the time but I think it's ok if you're using it while camping etc. (better check if you do buy a knife).




u/Vanq86 · 2 pointsr/Bushcraft

First I'd make sure you both have all the clothing and footwear you need to be comfortable and the things you'd need for an urban day out (pack, water bottle, some snacks, etc.). Nothing ruins a day like an unexpected blister / rain shower that causes a chill / burned hand from a fire.

After that I'd consider basic survival needs and comforts that might be different in the woods. A small survival kit (and the knowledge required to use it), toilet paper, bug spray, gloves to protect your hands from heat and thorns, a tarp (which you already say you have) to escape the sun or rain, etc.. One suggestion I have that I don't see mentioned often is a lightweight foam kneeling pad. You can get them at the dollar stores in the gardening section usually and for the negligible weight and space they're worth having in my opinion. They are great for kneeling on (obviously), which you'll be doing a lot when practicing bushcraft skills like fire making, and they make a huge difference for the backside when sitting on ground / logs / rocks that are hard / wet / dirty.

With comfort and survival covered you can look at the real 'tools' of bushcraft. The most important thing, in my opinion, is a good knife for each of you. Soooo many projects / skills that are considered 'bushcraft' require / are made easier when you have a decent knife. You don't need to spend a lot (a Mora Companion is a great choice for under 10 dollars), just be sure to do your homework before spending money so you don't end up with something that looks cool but isn't practical for your bushcraft needs.

Beyond the knife I won't go into details about the rest of my suggestions but I think you'll find reasoning behind them fairly self-evident. I've been bushcrafting / camping / hunting for the better part of 2 decades now and all items I list below are all ones that I've personally used many, many times and wouldn't recommend if I didn't find them awesome and reliable. If you look into them further I think you'll find most / all are considered the best 'bang for your buck' option in their given class.


Mora Companion fixed blade knife - carbon or stainless doesn't matter, both are great: ~$12-15

Nalgene leak-proof water bottle - The cheaper HDPE bottle is actually better believe it or not: ~$5-8

Bahco Laplander folding saw - Silky saws are worth the upgrade price in my opinion but are definitely just a 'nice to have', considering Bahcos can't be beat for the price / function / reliability: ~$20-25

Sawyer Mini water filter - filters twice as good as the LifeStraw (0.1 vs 0.2 microns), lasts 10 times longer (100k vs 1k gallons), is much more versatile (you can screw the Sawyer onto a 2 litre coke bottle), and costs less to boot: ~$19

Fiskars X7 hatchet - I know you already have one bust I figured I'd mention it. For a bombproof, light weight, made in Finland hatchet it can't be beat for the price: ~$20-25

Tramontina 18" machete - great balance and blade, just sand or wrap the handle in some tape if yours isn't finished perfectly to avoid potential blisters (this is also where good gloves come in) - ~$15-18

u/rayvenbushcraft · 2 pointsr/Bushcraft

I’d take a good full-tang knife (though a Morakniv is always a good, cheap choice ) and a folding pocket saw (I use the Bahco Laplander ), as most wood needed can be easily processed with the saw and batoned with the knife.

Some sort of fire-starting implement.. ferry rod is an easy choice if you are in an area where you can access quality tinder, and you can always bring some char cloth or other tinder type with you.

u/DevonWeeks · 2 pointsr/knives

If you're looking to do bushcraft tasks, it'd be better for you to get a knife, saw, and a hatchet so you have all the tools you need for manipulating wood and natural cordage. If you're trying to stay under $100, I'd recommend...

Knife - Mora Bushcraft Black

Saw - Bahco Laplander

Axe/Hatchet - Cold Steel Trail Boss

This will bring you in right at 100 dollars I think and give you a great starting set of tools for bush/field-craft.

There are other options in each of these categories that could combine to keep you under 100. I can list some of those, too, if these don't meet your needs. But, this will definitely do any bushcraft task you can think of.

If you do get the Cold Steel Trail Boss, take some time and thin the cheeks a bit and put a bit of a thinner convex edge on it. You'll be shocked at the results. Trust me.

u/All-Consuming-Fire · 2 pointsr/MTB

Those chains work but just barely. One of these will cut it down 10x faster.

u/Sardine_Sandwich · 2 pointsr/Kayaking

I sometimes take a Bahco Laplander with me, I use this saw a lot at home and on camping trips, it's a perfect size for me to carry around in the field or on my canoe or kayak. https://www.amazon.com/Bahco-396-LAP-Laplander-Folding-Inch/dp/B0001IX7OW/ref=sr_1_1/147-0484187-1007762?ie=UTF8&qid=1496260867&sr=8-1&keywords=bahco+laplander+folding+saw

u/thelastboyscout007 · 2 pointsr/preppers

Becker BK22 - This knife is a freakin beast. I've batoned 4in thick hardwood logs with this badboy with no problems and it still held its edge. And at 1/4 thick you could pry open a car door with it if needed.


Sawer Mini Water Filter


Mountain House Meals - Lightweight long storage and taste great.

Laplander Folding Saw

u/MrrrrSparrrrkle · 2 pointsr/CampingGear

For about the same weight, I highly recommend the Bacho laplander folding saw.

It has worked much better than any hatchet I have used and is much easier to carry.

u/HamwiseVonTossington · 2 pointsr/EDC

The Bahco Laplander is a badass folding saw and currently $25.



http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0001IX7OW

u/firsttimebowyer · 2 pointsr/Survival

I plan on bringing this saw http://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B0001IX7OW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1425742544&sr=8-3&keywords=folding+saw&dpPl=1&dpID=31RlPumzdlL&ref=plSrch&pi=SX200_QL40 and although that's a neat way of bringing a saw I don't really see why I wouldn't just strap the aluminum handle for the bow saw on my bag if I were going to bring one. The aluminum handle is light strong and takes much less effort to set the saw up. But in a pinch that would be a good backup if the handle somehow broke

u/Robin_Hood-Rat · 2 pointsr/knives

Can't go wrong with an Ontario Rat1. Best to keep your knife and saw separate. Just get a handy folding saw. They are light and so nifty https://amzn.com/B0001IX7OW

u/Cant_Spel · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

Mine was in the same condition. I rewired the fridge with a thermostat AC controller for around 40 bucks... http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1322063771&sr=8-1

The controller maintains the temp so I'm not as concerned with a bad seal (granted I'm still doing Ales and keepign it around 65 to 70 degrees). I've managed nearly a dozen brews with this and haven't had issues. I expected some condensation but haven't seen any moisture.

u/ganjananda · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

Thanks, man. The fan is a Lasko 4000 Air-Stik Ultra-Slim Oscillating Fan. It's perfect for a micro grow.

My tent sits in near-outdoor conditions, so I have to keep temps up. The smaller device is a Lasko MyHeat Personal Ceramic Heater controlled by a Lux WIN100 Heating & Cooling Programmable Outlet Thermostat. It pushes enough heat to keep temps as high as ambient +30.

u/puffball · 2 pointsr/Frugal

I have this

http://www.amazon.com/WIN100-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8/

to use with a window AC with no thermostat. Though typically it runs for 2-3 mins, turns off for 10, on for 2-3 min, etc. , which is a little annoying.

But I mostly just use my window fan pointing at me.

u/sdrawkcabsemanympleh · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

I used a Danby wine fridge somewhat like this, and recently got a similar but wider model from KitchenAid. Granted, I use these to control fermentation temp, rather than as a kegerator.

  1. I have never had a huge problem with the icing/ I can attribute this to Arizona's dry air, and also a fan I keep in back. It largely eliminates the ice. It keeps the temperature much more uniform.

  2. Get a fan and a temperature controller. I use some shitty <$10 fan and it is good enough, and this temp controller. It is nice in that no wiring is needed other than maybe an extension cable or two. It will keep your fridge +/- 1 degree F.

    Something else I learned the hard way... put something under it. If something happens and you have a leak or otherwise a spillage, it can get nasty. I am looking at getting a tray like those used under other appliances to prevent further disasters.
u/Longfellowjohnson · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

You can get theses things that you can hook an A/C unit up to and will turn on at set temperature and turn of at another. http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406648156&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=temperature+pkug

u/thebusinessfactory · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

Use a themostat...lol

Like this http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

Plug your fan in, when it hits a certain temp it will turn on or off depending on the settings.

u/mattmentecky · 2 pointsr/pittsburgh

Without seeing your set up I don't know if my suggestion will work but either point your landlord in this direction or just order one yourself:

https://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539879277&sr=8-3&keywords=plug+in+thermostat&dpID=313Eh1W4f3L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Pretty simple and straightforward. I use that exact model for a bread proofing box I made out of it, a cooler, and a light bulb.

u/buddysharts · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

We use a plug with a thermostat rather than a thermostat on the heater. Works great for us and can also be used with a fan to keep a room cool but shut off when it gets too cold. Have been using it in the kids room for 4 years with nothing but great results.

Lux WIN100 Heating & Cooling Programmable Outlet Thermostat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IV8XBb7JHBTQ8

u/StickOnTattoos · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

I was running this LG ACoutside of a 5x5x8 tent and it kept it plenty cool enough. It comes with some in window mounts and a exhaust duct. I had to do some clever rigging on the front in to some flexible ducting and ran that inside the tent to a diffuser. To control the temperature I ran a power cord to this thing and put that inside the tent. I never really found the best place to put it I just kind of had it hanging in the middle. I then had to run the AC's power cord inside the tent to connect to the temperature controller. It all worked very well when I needed it ! I do wish the temp controller had a 'range' you could put on it. It seemed like the AC was off and on a lot so theres prolly a better way to do that! Anyways good luck! oh and here is some PICTURES of how I ducted the cold air

u/DMUSER · 2 pointsr/DIY

Oh I didn't realize it plugs in
You want this or something like it. Just plug that into your outlet, plug your wireless switch into that. It will make it so that the switch will not operate or get power until the temperature drops to whatever value you enter.

Hopefully that works for you as it will be entirely plug and play and take less than 5 minutes to set up.

u/payeco · 2 pointsr/homelab

I was going to suggest that first but didn't know if you wanted the cost of running a wall unit. A new, efficient little 5000btu unit shouldn't cost too much to run though.

Something like this though would allow you to set it to only run once it's reached a certain temperature and shut back off when your desired temperature is reached. https://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

u/Green_man420 · 2 pointsr/SpaceBuckets

Here is my outdoor setup. I no longer have a bucket, so this is what i use in my box now.

If temp falls below 62- then my heater kicks on and goes til about 82
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Comfort-Zone-5-120-BTU-Multi-Purpose-Ceramic-Heater-Black-CZ442WM/21899614

At 78 my fan turns on and i have is set lower to be less loud. So the heater will turn off while the fan is on exchanging my air out. Once its below 78 the fan turns off and we wait til the heater kicks on again. But the HPS puts off enough to keep it warm usually


http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1417395131&sr=8-13&keywords=temperature+controller

http://www.amazon.com/VenTech-VTSPEED-Variable-Router-Controller/dp/B00EVYGPJQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417395084&sr=8-2&keywords=inline+fan+controller

u/2moreweeks · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

I've used the small oil filled heaters with a plugin thermostat for when it gets way too cold like these

http://www.amazon.com/Homebasix-CYPB-7-Filled-Radiator-Watts/dp/B001GDIXVI/

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E7NYY8

u/CNoTe820 · 2 pointsr/SmartThings

I think the IR blaster is more error prone than a thermostat power plug. I would just wire the power plug in series with another zigbee power plug that smart things can turn off if the door has been open for more than 5 minutes.

https://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

The AC will only run if the door is closed and the room is too warm.

u/sanka · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

I have a shelf in my basement that I put a door on. I covered the walls of it in styrafoam and added an outlet thermostat. To this I plugged in a heater.

Keeps the wort fermenting at just the right temp all winter. Summertime is a crapshoot, but my basement usually stays under 70 even without AC. With AC it works just like the winter since ambient is about 65.

Mine holds two fermenting buckets at a time. I'm sure you could make a simple wooden box and do the same thing.

u/nicodemus26 · 2 pointsr/Frugal

Due to the rules of house power outlets all space heaters are created pretty much equal as far as heat output. I have this little guy and quite like it.

I also got one of these to plug it in to so that it would have my room warm for me when I got home from work, but not waste power all day or while I sleep.

u/ChefJoe98136 · 2 pointsr/Seattle

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007Q3RQ6

Looks interesting. I am particularly amazed with the $36 thermostat-based outlet control module that amazon recommended at the same time as looking at the AirKing.
http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

u/Schnodally · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Here's an idea. Buy a programmable outlet thermostat so the fans only turn on and off when needed. Just set the temperature and let the thermostat do the rest!

u/woodythebiologist · 2 pointsr/gardening

I just googled "plug thermostat" and this was the first result. Not sure if your in the US.


https://www.amazon.com/Lux-Automatic-Programmable-Thermostat-Compatible/dp/B000E7NYY8

u/apachexmd · 2 pointsr/amazonecho

Probably wrong sub but one of these would work for you
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E7NYY8/

u/optimatez · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Im actually still using 2008 on my host, and 2012 on the VM's. I havent gotten around to upgrading the host, but im hoping to do it soon.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E7NYY8/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Donttrhrowtreesaway · 2 pointsr/SpaceBuckets

I want one of these:

https://m.lowes.com/pd/GE-20-2-cu-ft-Frost-Free-Upright-Freezer-White/50343450

Hooked up to one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000E7NYY8/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The thermostat would have to be mounted inside the freezer to keep internal temperature at whatever is ideal for the plants. Most upright freezers even come with a lock on the door!

u/unrighteous_bison · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

this one seems ok.

I bought this one, it sucks but it was available for 1-hour delivery in my area

u/Shadow_Van · 2 pointsr/Coilporn

Yeah, working on it. I already knew the more well known bits, but the more I read the more subtleties there are. Any advice on what to look for in a multimeter? looking at this one

u/caithnard · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

What are you looking to do with it and how much are you willing to spend?

I carry this guy with me on a day to day basis, does everything I need and was only $20

u/cb750k6 · 2 pointsr/HondaCB

A multimeter is a must have tool for someone running a vintage bike. They are relatively inexpensive. I can recommend this one as it has auto-ranging, but anyone you get will do.

Tutorial on multimeters and how they work.

How to test your motorcycle components.

u/nayt · 2 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

If you don't have one, they're pretty cheap on Amazon: link
I use one of these on every electrical project on my jeep for sure

u/Danpaulcornell · 2 pointsr/vintageaudio

Here are some useful links: Link; Link; Link. The Marantz cost about $58 using good quality replacements. I did a H/K 330B for $9.58. The Marantz 2285 I am working on cost about $90 for parts.

 

You will need a decent soldering iron; solder sucker; desoldering braid; lead solder; flux; and most importantly a multimeter. Here is another gear thread. Most of the manuals are available on Hifiengine. What you can't find there you can check the forums or Sams. Manuals on Fleabay should be an absolute last resort.

 

I would recommend going to a local thrift store and getting some practice junker units. It will take you some time to good at it and you certainly don't want to screw up your good unit. I still don't know anywhere near enough to do more than replace the parts and do basic troubleshooting. Fortunately for people like us, there are a lot of very helpful and knowledgeable persons on the forums who are always willing to lend a hand. Edit: Forgot about the Dim Bulb Tester.

u/MangoMan6 · 2 pointsr/electricians

https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1520974670&sr=8-6&keywords=multimeter

Its still on the cheaper end, but I've been using one extensively for 4 years and haven't had any issues besides the pos. probe becoming loose.

u/QwertzHz · 2 pointsr/flashlight

I use this, but there are probably slightly better ones at that price point if you go looking. I like this one because it's auto-ranging, but the whole "battery test" thing seems like nonsense. Hasn't failed me yet in my light usage.

u/mercurysinking · 2 pointsr/ReverseEngineering

I have this one that I like kind of a lot. It's not super flashy or anything, but it's reasonably quick, it autoranges, it's fairly accurate, and it's worked for everything I've needed so far. And, it's only $17 so you don't have much to lose. It's well built (feels sturdy). Only complaint is that it makes noises twice when it's about to shut off.

u/lithiumdeuteride · 2 pointsr/diypedals

I've used this one for many years.

It lacks capacitor- and transistor-testing modes, but it was designed mainly for automotive use, and for the price, it's very good.

u/WorkoutProblems · 2 pointsr/sportster

uhhhhhhhh If you say so...

You wouldn't know of good how to for dummies / videos that would go over these?

Also does the quality of mulitmeters really matter if it's just for motorcycle diagnoses? was thinking of getting this, but some of the reviews say it's not that great, what distinguishes a great multimeter from an okay one?

http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426173691&sr=8-1&keywords=multimeter

u/bonkersthough · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

Yeah. I use this one because it is a lot nicer than the even cheaper ones while still being pretty cheap. And its auto-ranging which is a big plus in my book. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGZA/

And https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014ERIFU6 those for drivers. I too was fed up with the cheap ones stripping. Again, not the best in the world but a lot better than the harbor freight special. They bite well and I haven't stripped anything with them yet.

u/darkfires · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

The ohm/volt meter I have from MyVaporStore is nice. I'm sure you can find it cheaper but I like their customer service and reliability.

However, if you're wanting a good multimeter, this one from Amazon is cheaper than most ohm/volt meters.

u/DriedT · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

I bought one of these in 2010 and another in 2017; the first one is still working fine. It's worked great for basic troubleshooting and measurements. I've used it for power consumption measuring and it seemed accurate enough. I've used them a lot, but none of it requires super accurate readings and I haven't had a single issue. If you buy one I can't guarantee the same experience, but they've been great for me.

Currently $18.80 https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGZA/

u/pierre_x10 · 2 pointsr/keto

Get a body tape measure, they are fairly cheap, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/AccuFitness-MT05-MyoTape-Body-Measure/dp/B000G7YW7Y

​

Look up how to measure your body parts (waist, hips, arms, etc), and track those like you would your weight.

​

I only recently re-started keto, but the last time I was eating keto, there were a couple months that my weight didn't go down, but I could tell from my belt that I was still slimming down. Keto is great for body recomp.

u/TooHotInPhoenix · 2 pointsr/loseit
u/Cabin_Sandwich · 2 pointsr/bodybuilding

i like these, you can do your measuring with one hand.

u/sp0radic · 2 pointsr/loseit

Where would a product like this be ranked?

u/todays_throwaday · 2 pointsr/RedPillWomen

I'm not sure if this is quite the right place to put this, but as someone who is very into fitness, health, etc, I want to put good information out there for people to see. Your statement about not losing weight possibly due to muscle gain reminded me of a pretty important idea:

Worry less about the scale and more about the mirror and your waist/hip measurements. The scale numbers matter, but not as much as you might think.

Here is an article on the average ideal waist:hip, waist:chest, and BMI for both men and women:
Ideal to real: What the perfect body really looks like


For the BMI, I'd recommend using this calculator, which BMI with an exponent of 2.5 instead of 2.0, making it better for people of significantly above or below average height:

New BMI Calculator

Here were the ideal numbers for women designed by men:

  • BMI of 18.8

  • Waist-to-hip ratio ratio of .73

  • Waist-to-chest ratio of .69

    Obviously, you have less control over bust size than you might like, but handling your waist:hip ratio and trying to eat towards the ideal BMI is going to massively increase your sex appeal, mating options, and body satisfaction. The good news is, these are averages, and as long as you are reasonably close, you are going to be somebody's ideal.

    EDIT: Just to give a concrete example of this, I like narrower/flatter hips, a smaller chest, and a bit more muscle than most men. This will lead to a small overall size and low curves, but a somewhat higher BMI due to the higher muscle density. However, most women would be very well served by tailoring their fitness regimen to approach the above numbers over time.


    You can track both your weight and your measurements pretty cheaply. Here are a couple of products on Amazon that make it very easy:

    Body measurement tape, $5

    Digital scale, $23

    I own both of these products and I am very satisfied with them. I'd say measure yourself in the morning after relieving yourself for the most accurate & consistent results.

    Fitness and health are both easier and harder than people make them out to be. Often we pursue ideals that are a bit wrongheaded, and it is difficult to form good habits. However, once you pick the right goals, and you establish the good habits, it gets fairly easy and very rewarding. Happy self-improvement, folks!
u/WillowWagner · 2 pointsr/keto

If you're trying to keep burning fat, you absolutely need to keep that deficit. If you're lifting, keep it up. If you're not, start, even with just resistance bands. Also keep moving. Walk a lot. And get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/AccuFitness-MT05-MyoTape-Body-Measure/dp/B000G7YW7Y or get a soft fabric tape measure and write down your measurements. A stall is a month or more with no change in ANY physical measurement. IIRC Jimmy Moore once went 10 weeks with no weight loss, but he lost 6 inches at his waist at the same time, back when he first did Atkins.

At this point it's really good to stay focused on the process and on how well you feel. The external rewards aren't going to come as fast, so enjoy your steak and butter, and celebrate every tiny gain.

u/What_the_shit_Archer · 2 pointsr/xxketo
u/tryingtohike · 2 pointsr/xxketo

I've only tracked inches since i started Keto. I used this tape measure that came w/ a scale before only to realize that it didn't give an accurate number since there was around 3 inches that went unmeasured. my best guess was that I was 50 inches before maybe 51 in waist and now I jump between 44 and 45 inches.

u/torinmr · 2 pointsr/bodyweightfitness

I have one of those, and the %BF it reports varies wildly day-to-day, by several percent. As such, I've found it pretty much useless.

I've found a simple waist measurement to be a much more consistent measure of BF progress, even though it doesn't directly correspond to a % number. If you want a fancy gadget, I bought this for a few bucks and it makes body measurement easier and more consistent.

u/magele · 2 pointsr/loseit

I use this : http://www.amazon.com/AccuFitness-MT05-MyoTape-Body-Measure/dp/B000G7YW7Y

and I love it, I also paid quite a bit for a good digital scale, different ways to measure progress, but for 6 bucks you can't go wrong!

u/majormick3y · 2 pointsr/keto

I use one of these and measure at the same time each day

u/corthander · 2 pointsr/Skookum

The main advantage of acetylene torch is the ability to get a very localized area hot very quickly. You can still get it hot with the yellow bottle torches (called Mapp still) or propane or butane (this is the one I was referring to Blazer GT8000 Big Shot Butane Torch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCZU0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gQAXAbRB3QEDA) it just takes longer and so conduction has more chance to take effect and you end up heating a very large area.

I don't know about the bronze alloy. The silver solder I was using flowed at around 1200 F. I used the white paste flux which you also have to be careful with to not burn before you get a good flow. The color of the glow was one of my best indicators of temperature in the moment.

u/CreeperDays · 2 pointsr/trees
u/Benevoson · 2 pointsr/trees

When it comes to torches, your best bet is to invest a little more and get the GT 8000. It's built to last for years, so chances are you're never going to need to buy another torch.

But as far as your dabs go, I don't think that the torch would cause that issue. Like the others said, maybe let it get seasoned a little bit.

u/Bula710 · 2 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

BBaB Bonjour Creme Brulee torch is the best IMO. I have a 14mm domeless and it takes about 25 seconds to heat up, I can usually get about 50 dabs before I have to refill. A can of butane lasts me 5-6 grams of shatter with this torch. The Big Shot torch is also a good one: http://www.amazon.com/Blazer-GT8000-Shot-Butane-Torch/dp/B000NCZU0A

What is active carbon used for?

For Butane, I just use whatever is on sale, for your torch it doesn't really matter. Lately I have been using Power 5x since it's 2 for $5 at my local smoke shop. You can buy a case on Amazon for like $38.



u/aomerrill98 · 2 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

I just love my torch and it's easily my most favorite of all the ones I've had. It's the Blazer Gt8000 Big Shot. Little bit pricey but in my opinion its worth it for how fast it heats up the nail and for how much you'll be using it haha

u/TechJunky1 · 2 pointsr/concentrates

That could be just a faulty seal as I assume it's leaking from where you fill it?

I would recommend https://www.amazon.ca/Blazer-GT8000-Shot-Butane-Torch/dp/B000NCZU0A
You can find it on sale for 60$ and I've had it dabbing daily for 2 years. A solid device.

u/Nugrun · 2 pointsr/Dabs

I have the Vector Nitro, the bigger $70 one. Great torch, but my igniter went out (common issue with this torch). So it could take a few clicks to get it to go or I need to use a flame to get it going. It does come with a lifetime warranty, so I can get it replaced but I'm lazy.
But I recommend you buy the Blazer GT8000. It's only $20 more and it will be so much better than the small torches. I would have bought it but the Vector torch was a gift
I also have a Blazer Micro Torch, great little back up torch. I've had it since 2012 and it still works great.

u/paperclouds412 · 2 pointsr/Dabs

The Big Shot is the highest quality hand torch that I've ever used or seen anywhere, they're incredible. It's on Amazon for $53 right now. Unless the size is a huge problem, you wont find a better torch. If you do get a Big Shot the red piece of plastic that goes over the fuel knob is meant for traveling, I've known wayyy to many people who threw them out.

If the Big Shot is too big then go with the Big Buddy. Vetor are straight up relabeled Chinese designed torches, companies like Newport and Blazer at least design their own.

u/Dabs2Review · 2 pointsr/Dabs

https://www.amazon.ca/Blazer-GT8000-Shot-Butane-Torch/dp/B000NCZU0A Hands down the best torch I have had, Going strong on 2 years now.

u/murderbymodem · 2 pointsr/NJGuns

Personally, I avoid carrying a "knife". I always have a Gerber EAB with me. Since it uses replaceable utility blades, it'd be very hard for them to say it isn't appropriate for work. As a bonus you can actually use it to cut cardboard and tape without dulling and getting an expensive knife all nasty.

u/trillionsin · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Gerber Pocket Knife - Exchange A Blade

With Titanium edge blades

I already have this, so I wont ask for any gifting.

It's small/thin, has a strong clip. You can replace the blades very cheaply, or get expensive ones like I posted (Irwin 50 pack for 12.69 Prime is a cheaper higher quantity option)

u/spotter · 2 pointsr/Polska

To chyba tak nie działa. Towary z ograniczoną dystrybucją po prostu nie będą możliwe do zamówienia pod Twój adres. Na przykładzie Amazonu: rzeczy takie jak amerykańskie czasopisma, książki na rynek amerykański i inne przedmioty po prostu nie będą dostępne dla wybranego adresu docelowego, gdyż ich dystrybucja na terenie danego kraju nie jest prowadzona. I tyle.

u/pandorafalters · 2 pointsr/Tools
u/viking977 · 2 pointsr/Tools

Is this the one you want?

u/MadmanWithAHat · 2 pointsr/EDC
u/Demetrius3D · 2 pointsr/IDontWorkHereLady

Gerber EAB is the way to go.

u/cesarsucio · 2 pointsr/EDC
u/Dman222123222 · 2 pointsr/EDC

You might be interested in something like the Gerber EAB or Gerber EAB Lite for that utility blade. Both are pretty nice. Ironically, the EAB is lighter than the EAB Lite.

u/xmaxdamage · 2 pointsr/italy

https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-EAB-Pocket-Knife-22-41830/dp/B0016KHW2W usa le lame dei raschietti e lo porto sempre nella tasca dei jeans, non occupa praticamente spazio. prima giravo con un serramanico ma mi sono reso conto che finivo per non usarlo mai perché spesso serve per fare cose che potrebbero rovinare la lama (non ho sbatti di mettermi a fare l'arrotino).

il victorinox è comodo per molte cose ma è più ingombrante e in caso di aggressione è una delle cose meno utili di cui disporre.

u/Teamster · 2 pointsr/malefashionadvice

I use one of these. Super lightweight, small, and uses replaceable blades. It's hardly the best looking knife out there, and I'm considering getting an Opinel, but the EAB is a simple, decent looking, highly effective utility knife. Certain perks to using a utility knife over a "normal" knife: easy to clean, cheap to replace blades, small profile.

u/McWatt · 2 pointsr/knives

Maybe a Leatherman Micra or a Swiss Army Knife. Or maybe this thing from Gerber.

u/kamspy · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

Gerber makes a little folding utility razor holder thingy. It's like $8. https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-EAB-Pocket-Knife-22-41830/dp/B0016KHW2W

Very rarely when someone asks you for a knife are they actually planning on cutting something. It's usually prying or turning a flat head screw.

It's like at work when someone asks me for a flathead screw driver and they're holding a hammer, I just give them my little screwdriver sized pry bar.

u/pyrowopr · 2 pointsr/EDC

First off, many of these things are intentionally cheap, because I do tend to break and/or lose things, so... Here goes.
All have Amazon links, because that was what was easiest.


Jewelry:

u/Agent_Eclipse · 2 pointsr/EDH

I use this. Slightly smaller than the Fatmax XL but at $20 less it works fine and you could buy two. Each bin holds a deck easily with room for tokens/extras...12 decks if you trade out the big bins for small bins.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B001G1CUK0/ref=dp_ob_title_hi

u/TyDiL · 2 pointsr/lego

You got this picture from amazon.co.uk, surely you can buy that exact product?

I just searched "storage cabinet" and got the exact item you wanted for fairly cheap and free shipping:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Raaco-Organiser-Drawer-Cabinet-RAA126762/dp/B000Y8DSZM/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1370296027&sr=8-10&keywords=storage+cabinet

Why not just go with this? If it were $24 for US amazon, then I'd probably buy it. I just bought three of these because of the sale and so I can have portable storage:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G1CUK0/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

edit:spelling

u/SithSerith · 2 pointsr/magicTCG
u/rimfire24 · 2 pointsr/magicTCG

I've got an Oloro deck I'm trying to decide if it's going under the knife, getting restructured as another commander, or getting deconstructed. Also, if you're trying to transport a bunch of decks, I've found this to be a game changer. Perfectly fits decks, looks nice, and you can fit 8-10 decks and nice in one case for less than $20

u/dontpanic4242 · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Stanley 10 Removable Bin Compartment Deep Professional Organizer

I got that in the mail yesterday, it's great. Feels very durable and well put together. The compartments are all removable and rearrangeable. I use it for my diy juice concentrates and it has no problem holding 30ml bottles, probably even 50ml bottles standing up. I can get a picture of mine with all the juice bottles inside when I get home in a few hours if anyone is interested.

u/scuba_steves · 2 pointsr/magicTCG

Your local hardware store has toolboxes that commander decks fit nicely in. Haven't tried them with 60 card decks but I've seen quite a few put commander decks in them. Something like this or this.

u/toxiczombiex · 2 pointsr/EDH

I personally use the Stanley organizer. Perfect fit for up to 8 commander decks, and two larger spaces for anything you need. All the compartments are rearrangeable and no cards fall through because the lid seals tightly.

I suppose you could make it fit 7 commanders, and remove the 2 big compartments and 1 small one, and it might be able to fit a playmat. But i just carry the case+my backpack with my trade binder and playmat.

Best of all its super cheap, and super sturdy.
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-25-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B001G1CUK0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495426718&sr=8-1&keywords=stanley%2Bcase&th=1

u/2ByteTheDecker · 2 pointsr/EDH

you want the stanley toolbox.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B001G1CUK0

the small compartments hold an double sleeved edh deck with the commander in a toploader. the large compartments are perfect for dice/counters/tokens/draft sleeves w/e.

I can tell all the decks apart based on the sleeve color.

u/Null_Finger · 2 pointsr/Netrunner

What to store things in


I use binders for commonly used cards and cardboard boxes for "bulk" cards (The cards you don't think you will use very often): 5000 capacity box, 800 capacity box

I also hear that these Stanley Organizers are also incredible for storage, as each compartment is the perfect size for a sleeved MTG commander deck (100 cards).

The binder should definitely be sorted. Not only is it more organized that way, you can find the cards you need much faster. The box can be unsorted, though I like to at least keep cards belonging to the same faction together.

This does run into the problem of occasionally not knowing whether a card is in the binder or box, but it has the advantage of giving you quicker access to the cards you most commonly use. I mostly do this because of habits from MTG, where you get tons of useless cards, but Netrunner doesn't give you nearly as many useless cards, so you could make the argument for storing all your cards together instead of differentiating between commonly used cards and bulk.

How to sort cards quickly


Your cards can be in whatever order you want: completely alphabetical, by faction and then by type and then alphabetical, by set, whatever. Your personal preference.

However, when it comes to sorting cards, or anything in general, there are fast ways to sort and slow ways to sort. Anyone who has studied computer science can attest to this. The difference is small when you only have a few cards, but quickly becomes massive as the number of cards grows.

Here are the two sorting algorithms you should know if you want to sort your cards quickly: Quicksort and Merge sort. They are among the fastest algorithms out there, they're easy to understand, and they're practical for sorting cards by hand. I'll explain them in the context of sorting cards below.

Quicksort

Here's how quicksort works for computers: Choose a "pivot" item at random from the unsorted pile. Now, go through everything and divide it into two piles: Those that would come before the pivot, and those that would come after the pivot. Then, sort each pile individually (usually with yet another quicksort). Once the piles are sorted, just combine them and put the pivot in between them, and voila, the pile as a whole is in order.

However, if you're a human, you'll find it more efficient to sort based on certain characteristics of the card that you can quickly identify (such as the card's faction) instead of whether or not the card comes before or after a randomly chosen pivot. In addition, you'll want to separate into multiple piles instead of just 2.

Here's an example: You want your cards sorted by faction and then in alphabetical order. You already sorted you cards by faction, and now, you want to sort your Anarch cards in alphabetical order. The cards you want to sort are in the following order: Wyldside, Demolition run, Deja Vu, Grimoire, Corroder, Medium, Yog.0, Stimhack, Parasite. The first step of quicksort is to divide the cards into piles. When sorting alphabetically, I like to make a pile for cards from A-E, one for F-M, one for N-R, and one last one for S-Z. However, as long as every card in one pile comes before every card in the next pile, it doesn't matter how you make your piles. So, dividing these unsorted cards into piles (according to my preferred sorting scheme), we get the following piles:

{Demolition run, Deja Vu, Corroder}, {Grimoire, Medium}, {Parasite}, {Wyldside, Stimhack, Yog.0}

Each individual pile is not in order, so we sort each pile individually (I would use another quicksort on these piles if they were bigger) to get:

{Corroder, Deja Vu, Demolition run}, {Grimoire, Medium}, {Parasite}, {Stimhack, Wyldside, Yog.0}

Then, we just combine the piles and we're good.

Merge sort

Here's how merge sort works for computers: Divide your big pile into 2 separate piles, and then sort those piles individually (Usually with another merge sort). Then, once the 2 piles are sorted, merge the piles into one sorted pile. The merging process is made much easier by the fact that the two piles are already sorted individually.

Here's how the merging process works: Look at the top item of both piles. Whichever one comes first gets added to the bottom of a new combined pile. Repeat until both piles are empty, and voila, your combined pile is sorted in order.

Example: You have the following sorted piles: {Demolition run, Yog.0, Wyldside}, {Corroder, Parasite}. The first elements of our 2 piles are Demolition run and Corroder. Corroder comes first, it becomes our new combined pile. Now, the top item of our 2 piles are Demolition Run and Parasite. Demolition run comes before Parasite, so it gets put at the bottom of our combined pile. The top cards of the piles are: Yog.0, Parasite. Parasite is put at the bottom of the combined pile. The second pile is now empty, so just put the rest of the first pile at the bottom of the combined pile. The combined pile looks like this: {Corroder, Demolition run, Parasite, Yog.0, Wyldside}. It's sorted, yay!

If you're a human, you'll be doing mostly the same thing as the computer. However, instead of having to lift up the combined pile to put a card at the bottom of it, you can instead make the entire combined pile face-down and add cards to the top. When you're done merging, just flip the combined pile upside-down.

Which one?

From experience, quicksort is a lot better if you have an unorganized mess to sort.

However, if you're adding some brand new cards to an already sorted collection, you'll want to use mergesort instead, since your collection is already sorted. Simply sort the new cards, and then merge the pile of new cards and your already sorted collection.

How NOT to sort your cards

Perhaps you currently sort your cards like this: Pull a card out of the unsorted pile, find out where it goes in your pile of sorted cards, then put it there. Repeat until unsorted pile is empty.

Or, maybe you do this: Go through the unsorted pile, find the item in the pile that goes below every other item in the unsorted pile, put that item at the bottom of the sorted pile. Repeat until unsorted pile is empty.

If they feel slow, that's because they are. They're mathematically inferior to quicksort and merge sort. The first method is actually OK if you want to just put back a card you took out of your collection, but if you have more than a few cards to add to your collection, merge sort instead.

u/I_Am_Monstrum · 2 pointsr/Pauper

Some adjustable hardware storage boxes can hold decks etc. i.e. This Stanley 10 Removable Bin Compartment Deep Professional Organizer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G1CUK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IL9Fzb1B84WGR obviously this one is too small but you get the idea. I saw some guy have like 10+ commander decks in something like this

u/half_a_sandwich · 2 pointsr/magicTCG

I use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B001G1CUK0

It has 2 large compartments and 8 small ones.

The small compartments hold an ultra pro deckbox (80) with just a bit of extra room (so that they may hold a larger deckbox, I just haven't tried it). They also hold a sleeved commander deck pretty perfectly.

The large compartments either perfectly fit three Ultrapro 80 deckboxes, or perfectly fits one Ultraguard 100 flip'n'tray (which was pretty cool when I discovered it).

I usually devote 1 compartment to dice and tokens.

It's not going to fit the mat (theoretically you could remove a row of bins from inside to fit it, but the rest would rattle around then). But requiring the mat fit into the same case is really going to limit your options. You could add some velcro loops to the outside to hold it, or just put both the box and the mat together in a bag.

u/Occulus2057 · 2 pointsr/Wishlist

something i recently got was this great for organizing cards or other various things.

u/robotsneedhugs2 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

We settled on these to try

u/Akamesama · 2 pointsr/magicTCG

I agree with the durability comment. I've got a couple dragon shield gaming boxes for transporting individual decks, but when I take a set of Commander decks, I use Dex Protection boxes but store them together in a hard exterior case.

u/baconatedbacon · 2 pointsr/preppers

I have used the kerosene heater. They put out quite a bit of heat. Another option is the Mr. Heater propane powered version, such as https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=pd_lpo_201_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7BW0P4QYEMBXB8MS7WVD

Safety around kids is another matter all together. Even wood stoves, space heaters, and radiators aren't safe around them due to the burn hazard. All I can say is that most kerosene heaters and Mr. Heater propane heaters have tip sensors that will shut them off if knocked over. The burn hazard will exist for almost any heat source.

u/responded · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Regarding garage heating, I use this indoor propane heater in conjunction with this 240 V heater.

I run them both when it's really cold (0 deg F), or when I first get out in the garage. If it's warmer outside (down to ~30 deg F) or the garage is up to temp, I just run the electric one to avoid the hassle of having to get tank refills. The total cost is less than $300, including a new propane tank and wiring in the 240 V outlet, and works well for me.

u/NugginLastsForever · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

I have something like this heater for camping when it gets cold. Also got an adapter to refill the little tanks from a big one. Seems to work well and fairly cost efficient.

u/RugerRedhawk · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

The dorm should have plenty of backup power solutions to provide power during an outage right? If you insist though this is what I would buy: https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478532852&sr=8-1&keywords=buddy+heater

u/ElectricNed · 2 pointsr/electricvehicles

I have been batting around the idea of building an EV myself for a long time. I have a DIY electric motorcycle which is a fun project and gets commuting use occasionally but is mostly for fun. The way things are now, though, I really doubt I would build my own EV for any reason other than fun. There are so many cheap, cheap used EVs on that market that just work without all the headaches of a DIY project (believe me- they will ALWAYS have headaches- you will never, ever have 100% reliability with a DIY EV). Used, degraded-battery Leaves or i-MIEVs would meet your needs and are available for less than $8000 in many places. There would be no AWD/4x4, but I suspect that either of those cars with good snow tires would perform well in the snow if the roads aren't covered with all 18 inches.


Would modifying an EV scratch your DIY itch? Perhaps adding some heating capacity to a Leaf or i-MIEV. I have thought it'd be a good project to add a propane heater to an EV, like this one, which I own. It provides instant heat, does not produce carbon monoxide, and is safe to use indoors. The tip sensor would be the one tricky bit- it shuts off if tipped even slightly and going around a corner or accelerating/decelerating could do it. I wouldn't prefer a diesel heater because of the smell and fumes, personally, whereas the propane one is odorless. I have the hose to hook mine up to a 20lb barbecue tank for use in the house during power outages. The other problem would be moisture buildup- the propane gets turned into CO2 and water- and that water will want to turn into condensation in your windows. Still worth trying, I think. Maybe I'll try it in my Prius sometime.


If you REALLY want to build your own snow-monster EV, I would start with whatever gas vehicle would be your choice for the conditions. Since your range requirements are so low, choosing a light, aerodynamic vehicle isn't as important. Don't go for a land-barge though- maybe an older Jeep Cherokee (XJ) in good condition, or a compact truck with 4x4. Compact pickups have been popular for EV conversions because of the easy mounting for the batteries. I'd be partial to an older vehicle with fewer computers, and probably 4x4 with a manual transfer case rather than anything AWD since I suspect that'd be more complicated. Again, I would caution you that unless you are extremely technically savvy, building your own EV is going to be a challenge of finding and fixing all the little problems that will, in all likelihood, take years to sort out and be a constant time-drain. I won't say it's impossible, but do want to advise you about the kind of commitment you'd be making for building and debugging.

Edit: Which Jeep

u/rebeccasf · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

I have a Mr. Heater Buddy heater. I use it in my tiny camper and it heats the place up in 10 - 15 minutes. I have to turn it on and off again to keep from turning my place into a sauna. Typically, I'll run it for 10 minutes and off for 20. So I run it three or four times before I go to bed and then turn it on when I get up in the morning to take the chill off. Now that it's winter, I go through a bottle of propane about once a week.

I also have a carbon monoxide detector in my camper. In all the time I've used the heater, the only time it registered on my detector, was at the end of a bottle when it was not burning completely for a few minutes. My CM detector registered 31 but never went off. I opened the top vent and it went back to 0 in two or three minutes. The heater is frikin' fantastic. I consider it very safe and am not worried at all about oxygen depletion.

u/gl21133 · 2 pointsr/camping

https://smile.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482855391&sr=8-1&keywords=mr+heater+buddy

I have that one, rarely used but it's rated as indoor safe. YMMV, I expect a comment shortly stating I'm on borrowed time. If you have an electrical hookup just get a ceramic heater.

u/_p00f_ · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

Why not just get one of those little Mr. Heaters? It'd be a hell of allot cheaper than 2 marine batteries and wouldn't require all the backend stuff to make it work.

u/throwaway_for_keeps · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

If you can afford a $300 3D printer, you can afford a $20 multimeter.

u/apanthropy · 1 pointr/CarAV

Nothing wrong with those components... how about a pair of these guys and one of these so they don't meet the same fate..

u/ephekt · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I have this one, but you don't need to spend more than $20 on one. Make sure you take the inherant resistence in your leads into account when you test your RDA.

http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1420433664&sr=8-4&keywords=volt+ohm+meter

u/Robathome · 1 pointr/aquaponics

You'd be surprised a) how easy it is to use Arduino, and b) how helpful the online community is. The nice thing about Arduino is that the complexity remains the same, regardless of how many sensors you add, provided you have enough expansion breakout board.

For a first step, I would buy a starter kit and a cheap soldering iron and a half-decent multimeter and just start making little projects, like light sensors and temperature sensors and making those projects both wireless and online.

After that, it's just a matter of interfacing the larger, higher-voltage components (like pumps and valves) with the lower-voltage Arduino. This is easily accomplished with a relay, which is also useful for electrical isolation between the two subsystems.

Start small. I would recommend making an Arduino into a timer, and then using the timer to control a pump. Then add an online API that allows you to adjust the on/off time of the pump. Then add water level sensors, then temperature sensors, etc.

Also, make sure you prototype everything on a small scale first, like the guy in the video was doing on his desk. It will save you a lot of money if you mess anything up.

Once you develop the skills necessary to build your smart-system, I cannot stress how important a good, detailed electrical diagram is. It doesn't matter if it's professional-quality, or done with pencil and a ruler. It will save you so much time.

u/iamhelltothee · 1 pointr/diypedals

Thanks, this was really helpful! Since with this blog I finally better understood the process of building pedals, I’ve made up my mind about getting into this and learning as much as possible. It’s a great blog.

I do have a follow up question thou. I’m now making a list of tools I’ll need to get for the job, I already have a few but I’m missing a multimeter. Would [this one](Innova 3320 Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_A3m-AbTVDFTA0) be good enough?

u/erleichda_archiving · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

It does not look like the switches are the problem... I have not done a minidox, but from this build guide it looks like you might have soldered the jumpers for the left and right side, SJ1 and SJ2 wrong. Your photo is too blurry to tell for sure but it looks like all three pads are soldered together? This is how it should look. Also, do you have a multimeter to test your reset switch and the diode orientation? Did you take any shots of your diode side before you soldered the switches and switch plate on?

Take a look at SJ1 & SJ2 and see if you can clean that up and test that they are jumpered correctly and lets go from there.

I am far from perfect, but here is how I solder my switches and components... Contra, and close up... Clean and Smooth :) This is a good shot of the PM, switches and diodes from my Gherkin See how the solder curves up the sides of the switch? Like cones and not globs or balls.

It is a dance... apply iron to hole and component, add the solder, remove solder then remove the iron in just the right time to not get a cold solder and not too long to warp the switch so it either doesn't work on give double presses and then it has to be removed and replaced.

The solder will flow to the heat... it like heat... I try to keep most of the contact with the pcb and less to the switch cause then the solder flows it will add heat to the switch... hope that makes sense. Once you get the groove, it feels so good.

Hope you can get your minidox working. looks like a cool board!

u/Yosho2k · 1 pointr/headphones

Ok, so I just discovered my multimeter (which I haven't used in years) has a broken screen, so I'm waiting for a new one from amazon. I'm guessing what you're going to say is to test the TRS on the broken phone against the solder point. I'll contact you again when I have it on Sunday. In the meantime, I'm learning all I can about wire replacement and that awesome-looking Kramer method.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGZA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/packmanta · 1 pointr/tDCS

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGZA/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Readings corroborated the expected output down to the 2nd decimal place

u/JayReddt · 1 pointr/electricians

Thanks for the kind words. And doesn't hurt giving important advice like shut the circuit and test it. I do know to do that but given the dangers involved... I don't mind hearing it!

Would this multimeter tool work as a voltage tester? I used it to test the current on parts of my dryer to see what needed to be replaced.

If not, any specific recommended voltage tester?

u/caseyrobinson2 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement
u/Thandius · 1 pointr/Plumbing

an Amp clamp? do you mean an Amps setting on my multi meter?

I picked up a multi meter to help diagnose this problem (and other problems down the line) and have mostly been following instructions on use....

I got this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGZA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am guessing It's the yellow setting on the bottom left DC10A

OR is this something on the water heter?

~Edit~
Corrected location of setting I described.

u/Account_for_mech_adv · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EVYGZA?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

It was the first thing that came up when I searched multimeter on Amazon. I can go get a different one at a store tomorrow and see if the results are the same. Are there any particular brands you reccommend?

u/crypt_pwd · 1 pointr/tDCS

I have decided to buy the banana plugs and jacks from amazon can anyone here verify that I am going to buy the correct ones
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BKW2K2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&smid=A28128AMZ00PEQ
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002FYAQYO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&smid=A3S5JX6S4LCKI6
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0044YPN0A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&smid=A1DCPNQKKEISZB

Also, will this meter be ok to measure the current?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGZA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I tried finding the fuse but I was unable, can anyone post a link to where you got yours. Finally, I was wondering if has anyone experimented with HD-TDCS

u/hobbykitjr · 1 pointr/ecobee

Do you have a multimeter?

Set it AC and check the R wire w/ the hot (red) lead and the C should be your negative/common (black) and the multimeter should show about 24V.

this is like an outlet where you have a positive and a neutral wire, these 2 wire are what the ecobee needs at minimum to turn on.

u/socraticd · 1 pointr/SolarDIY

I'd highly recommend getting a halfway decent multimeter if you don't have one. Given that you'll have more electrical work to do (and test) after initial diagnosis, you'll get a LOT of value out of a decent multimeter.

Something like this won't break the bank, and all the major functionality you will need to troubleshoot:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGZA/

u/dogfunky · 1 pointr/AskElectronics
u/Treat_Choself · 1 pointr/ABraThatFits

The tape measure is soft, but it's one of these types: https://smile.amazon.com/AccuFitness-MT05-MyoTape-Body-Measure/dp/B000G7YW7Y/

u/kothmia · 1 pointr/orangetheory

You might take a look at getting one of the tape measures with a peg (kinda like this ) I've found that (with the exception of shoulders) it helps a TON!

I'd take the last couple of days before the end of the WLC off from OTF, to give your muscles a chance to shed the water tht they're likely retaining!

u/spitfyre · 1 pointr/femalefashionadvice

I also would get really overwhelmed whenever I shopped in person. Didn't really go away until I worked on my self-esteem issues some. Shopping online was much easier, especially once I took my measurements.

Buy a tape measure (Amazon link) and get your measurements, most clothing sites will tell you how to measure. And then just look at the website's sizing guide and pick the size that's closest to your measurements. You have a reasonably good chance of getting something that fits well by following the sizing guide and reading the reviews.

u/Fenix159 · 1 pointr/Fitness

I see Purple_Crayon pointed you to /r/loseit, you'll find a lot of support there so that's definitely a good place to be.

Far as the pictures. Basically that. You won't see huge changes daily, but if you do weekly or every other week you'll actually be able to see differences over time and it won't be nearly as demoralizing looking at daily pictures seeing very little change.

Also I'll second Purple_Crayon's recommendation of taking measurements when you take your pictures. Pick up something like MyoTape for cheap. Really makes measurements easier.

u/fifey157 · 1 pointr/PointsPlus

I use this body tape measure to do my measurements, but any simple measuring tape will work. I take measurements once a week from bust, under bust, upper arm, upper thigh, waist, hips. This article from Nerd Fitness describes taking measurements (scroll down to the Track Your Body section). Also, pictures are a great way to track progress!

u/almostelm · 1 pointr/loseit

MyoTape for sure! Sometimes your weight will plateau and that can be incredibly frustrating. However, if you have taken measurements, you can compare that and almost always you will find that you have lost inches instead. I highly recommend measuring all the basics (hips, waist, bust, thigh and bicep).

u/PoorlyDesignedRobot · 1 pointr/loseit


Nope, I spent like $6 to get the equipment to do it.

I use a tape measure and the Navy body fat calcuator. Specifically, I use this and this.

u/sacrificialPrune · 1 pointr/Fitness

Does anyone have any recommendations for a tape for measuring neck/waist circumference? I'd prefer one of the lockable ones over a standard tape measure for ease of use.

I've got one of these but because its got a self winder as soon as I unhook it to check the measurement it winds back up a few cm which obviously skews the measurement.

u/Arrested · 1 pointr/90daysgoal

Yeah, they cost ~6 bucks on amazon. Here is what I purchased for tracking my measurements.

Body Measuring Tape on Amazon

Calipers on Amazon

u/Senchal · 1 pointr/loseit

I have one where you can attach the end of it to the part that retracts, so you can measure around yourself without help. Here's one I found on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/AccuFitness-MT05-MyoTape-Body-Measure/dp/B000G7YW7Y

u/rasGazoo · 1 pointr/malefashionadvice

I use this for my measurements btw, with help... actually needed to measure tonight for a question here.

u/nigelregal · 1 pointr/Fitness

I have a scale similar to that. I weighed myself for weeks everyday at same time and then multiple times a day. The body fat reading would vary day to day between 12% and 19%. Other scales might be more consistent though.

I have used the more expensive inbody ones at my gym and the hospital I work at. Those seem to be more consistent but each one gives fairly different results. For example the one at my gym typically reads me out at 13% body fat. The one at the hospital reads me out at around 16%. The difference could be that I measure at the gym at 6pm and at work i'm doing it around lunch time.

My advice is to take measurements instead using something like:

  • This
  • Or this
  • Or this

    Track it all on a spreadsheet. I have one if you want one. If you have the cash though for the scale I would just get a wireless one that transmits the data to your phone so it tracks weight and such without having to write it down (if you are lazy about that). The body fat part could just be "something interesting" to see but not something you take stock in.
u/Kittenmittons91 · 1 pointr/loseit

Measurements are so motivating! And sometimes a better metric than the scale, just because your actual weight can be influenced by so many things. I do mine once a month and they're always super encouraging. I'm down almost 20 pounds and I don't really see a difference in the mirror, but my measuring tape promises I'm getting smaller.

I got this puppy from Amazon for less than $5 shipped and it's made measuring a lot easier and more accurate.

u/rushboy99 · 1 pointr/progresspics

/r/GetMotivated
helps some on bad days

I have found having a sticky note countdown + full body mirror helps me want to keep going. latch on to your goal and use it like an anchor , and don't be afraid of a plateau. its basically your body redistributing fat.
most people still see inches come off the waistline and everywhere else, the scale lies during a plateau if it worries you that much, get a tape measure.

u/TMWNN · 1 pointr/amazone

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000G7YW7Y/ is half the price and is very similar. It's very convenient to use and only needs one hand to "activate" once the loop is closed.

u/LocalAmazonBot · 1 pointr/amazone

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000G7YW7Y/


|Country|Link|
|:-----------|:------------|
|UK|amazon.co.uk|
|France|amazon.fr|
|Germany|amazon.de|
|Japan|amazon.co.jp|
|Canada|amazon.ca|




This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting).

u/reverselookup · 1 pointr/4hourbodyslowcarb

You will get some amazing results. I got this body meauring tape for my measurements (waist, chest, arms, thighs, etc). These are the metrics you will pay attention to. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000G7YW7Y?pc_redir=1405521762&robot_redir=1.

Good luck my friend. I want to hear your progress.

u/joeythenaiveone · 1 pointr/loseit

If you have Amazon Prime, this is the measuring tape I have and I love it. It's cheap, ships free (with Prime) and it's easy to get consistent measurements with.

u/Panderian109 · 1 pointr/videopals

This is what I use. It tells me how much fat I have so I really know how much I'm loosing. Just be sure to do it in the morning before you eat anything and before you drink anything because the pulse will react differently if you have a different amount of water in your body. So if i do it one day right when I wake up then another day after dinner, the reading won't be accurate. I always do it in the morning. I also use one of these to measure my waist, arms, legs, neck, and chest to see where I'm loosing. I'm telling you, your mind plays all kind of weird tricks on you when you're trying to get fit because even though you're working out and eating awesome, you can still feel like nothing is working. For me, I've gotta prove it to myself. Having something to measure my health other than how I feel about myself when I look into the mirror helps.

u/guice666 · 1 pointr/Fitness

MyoTape - very useful.

And I agree.

u/fxgn · 1 pointr/C710LORADO

I really like this torch:
http://www.amazon.com/Blazer-GT8000-Shot-Butane-Torch/dp/B000NCZU0A

Can't go wrong, $48, best flame I've seen and more capacity for tane.

u/TheDukeOfErrl · 1 pointr/foodhacks

You want a good torch - the ones for plumbing are decent, but won't be optimal for what you're looking to do. The "cone" you were talking about just adjusts how complete the combustion is - a yellower flame means more air is added and less pure fuel is burning. A good torch will burn the fuel very efficiently and give you a pure blue flame, which in turn will eat up all the fuel, and leave behind no undesirables.

This is a good torch - but very powerful http://www.amazon.com/Blazer-GT8000-Shot-Butane-Torch/dp/B000NCZU0A/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1370986935&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=blazer+bigshot+torch

u/dnmel · 1 pointr/DankNation

This for sure. The GT8000 bigshot is the best I've seen and definitely worth the extra few bucks

u/uritarded · 1 pointr/CannabisExtracts

There's no way this torch could get a TI nail red hot in 5 seconds. Creme brulee torches heat at 2500 *C and it still doesn't heat up a TI nail red hot in 5 seconds. The best torch I've seen is a blazer big shot. http://www.amazon.com/Blazer-GT8000-Shot-Butane-Torch/dp/B000NCZU0A Little more than a vector torch, and heats up TI faster.

u/soleseeking · 1 pointr/Dabs

For an extra 20$ you can get a blazer GT8000 and save your banger. Also butane is stupid cheap.

u/Jackattack1616 · 1 pointr/Cooking

Just got my “Blazer” torch from Amazon, and it works fantastically. The flame is steady and long for cooking it any other needs. It’s also very durable and doesn’t seem like it will break anytime soon

Blazer GT8000 Big Shot Butane Torch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCZU0A?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/SteveAndTheCrigBoys · 1 pointr/CannabisExtracts

Butane torches, I've loved my Newport (it comes in other colors if gold isn't your thing). My guy has one of those and a Blazer Big Shot which is nice as well. Both have stood the test of time. The Newport you can operate with one hand, the Big Shot is possible to operate with one hand but slightly more difficult. I ordered a 6-pack of Newport butane with my torch and it's performed wonderfully. A cheap Bernzomatic torch from Home Depot will conk out on you, so just factor that in to whether you want to make another trip to pick up a new torch in 6 months, or buy a slightly more expensive one that'll last twice as long if not longer.

If you're going the propane route and have a TI nail, just make sure you don't overheat your nail. Titanium reacts with oxygen when it reaches a certain temperature, creating titanium oxide (the white coating you see on some TI nails) and titanium dioxide dust, which you can inhale and is definitely not good for you. You can reach this temp with butane or propane, but because propane burns about 1000 degrees (F) hotter than butane, you can reach that temp much easier. Those big blue propane tanks at Home Depot run about $5 though, if you're looking for a cheap and efficient route.

u/legacy702 · 1 pointr/supremeclothing

Blazer GT8000 Big Shot Butane Torch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCZU0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_v1HpybS611S73

It's way worth it

u/LightSquancher · 1 pointr/steak

How are you cooking? I'm mostly familiar with sous vide, but it has some similarities with reverse searing. I use a powerful butane torch to finish my steaks and burgers. My dad, when he has some extra hands around, does a combo with a super hot butter filled cast iron. One person torches the top and the other bastes with the butter, but I think this is more complicated than needed. I'm very happy with just a torch. I use https://www.amazon.com/Blazer-GT8000-Shot-Butane-Torch/dp/B000NCZU0A

I use the torch for dabbing too, it's very well made.

u/o0DrWurm0o · 1 pointr/AskCulinary

Blazer GT8000 Big Shot Butane Torch

I got one of these for my birthday. It's not as powerful as one of the nozzles that fits on the large butane tanks, but it's a great compromise between compact size and power.

u/GoneGonorrhea · 1 pointr/EntExchange

$50 with free shipping on Amazon or $40 from this hardware store. So it's just $50 max for a brand new torch... Not $85 for that shitty, used combo. I need what you're smoking if you think you have a good deal haha!

Good try though.

u/Exfiltrate · 1 pointr/EntExchange
u/THEMIKEBERG · 1 pointr/trees

It's all personal taste, there are some torches that require you to hold the "trigger" down to keep it lit and there are some that only require you press the ignition once.

I prefer the torches that require you press it once, when it comes to torches you absolutely get what you pay for.

You might also want to take into consideration a torch that has "child safety" features, they can be a real pain if you are consistently dabbing and don't have children or somehow have a system that guarantees child safety.

https://www.amazon.ca/Blazer-GT8000-Shot-Butane-Torch/dp/B000NCZU0A

This is the torch I use, simple design, large flame, heats up my rig way quicker than any other torches I've used.

I'm not sure if you could caramelize sugar with this torch as the flame is massive. But if you plan on dabbing a lot and can keep it away from children I highly recommend it.

u/la_carne · 1 pointr/eldertrees

Highly recommend this one. Friend and I both have one and we've been using them for ~3 years. Best torches we've used.

u/bungsana · 1 pointr/EDC

carry gerber EAB. i use it to open mail, boxes at work, and packages. i also use the flat edge as a bottle opener.

u/random_account_538 · 1 pointr/MLPLounge

I don't have a fancy knife. Just a plain old Gerber EAB.

I like that I don't have to ever worry about sharpening it. Mostly because I'm not very good at sharpening knives.

I do carry [one of these](http://www.xdspistol.com/specs.php "The 3.3" .45acp version") though.

u/Bangs42 · 1 pointr/EDC
u/browsit · 1 pointr/malefashionadvice

It is great for storing credit cards. I don't use it for money; I use this:

http://www.amazon.com/Gerber-22-41830-Pocket-Knife-Exchange/dp/B0016KHW2W

u/midnight_nyc · 1 pointr/techtheatre

I use this tiny Gerber money clip knife. I put in a fresh blade every week so my knife is always sharp. I use strait blades but it also accepts other styles of blades. My test for a sharp knife is being able to have a friend hold a sheet of gel in front of them and being able to slice it cleanly (this is more of a film thing than a theatre thing).

u/AnacondaPython · 1 pointr/EDC

I modified my setup a bit, to accodomodate feedback from other people and to see what works best for me

Somebody suggest to use this knife:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016KHW2W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's my new setup:

RIGHT FRONT POCKET


Any dynomighty wallet, just pick a design

https://www.dynomighty.com/categories/

Car keys (whatever your carkeys are). If you want a USB stick added on to your keys, use a Micro-HDMI for low profile and convenience

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RBGYGPG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LEFT FRONT POCKET


Iphone6, Samsung S6, etc etc. Whatever floats your boat

Pick a small battery charger, search for it on amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=portable+battery+charger&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aportable+battery+charger

Get a retractable cable for your charger if you need too (low profile)

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters%C2%AE-Gold-Plated-Retractable-Micro-USB/dp/B00SVVY844/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1474558782&sr=8-4&keywords=USB+retractable+cable


JEAN COIN POCKET (on front right pocket)


That gerber fold up knife https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016KHW2W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

RIGHT MOST JEAN STRAP ( was the front right before)


Carbiner

https://www.amazon.com/LeBeila-Carabiner-Aluminum-Locking-Keychain/dp/B013NNG18U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474558280&sr=8-1&keywords=carabiner

duck tape

Tape planet had the cheapest prices at $1.54 each

http://www.tapeplanet.com/Mini-Rainbow-Duck-Tape-Duckling-p/stdtpl-282322.htm

BACK LEFT POCKET


Measuring tape. This one has the lowest profile so it doesn't hurt to sit on, 10' is good enough for almost everything

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-33-115-10-Foot--4-Inch-PowerLock/dp/B00009OYGH/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1474558504&sr=8-7&keywords=measuring+tape

BACK RIGHT POCKET


Get sticky notes, I suggest highland brand 3"x3" since it works for nearly everything you might need sticky notes. I suggest getting both, alternate colors by day

Plain yellow:

https://www.amazon.com/Post--Markers-Assorted-Bright-670-10AB/dp/B007QFATEO/ref=sr_1_6?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1474558871&sr=1-6&keywords=sticky+notes

Color:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OCPJK0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also, get a sharpie too. Fine points are good

https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Permanent-Markers-Point-Black/dp/B00006IFHD/ref=sr_1_1?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1474558955&sr=1-1&keywords=sharpie

Alternatively or ultra fine

https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-37001WM-Permanent-Marker-12-Pack/dp/B00006IFI3/ref=pd_sim_229_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=08FBBP33PZV82ZY7AT41


--------------

that's my current setup

u/WarSport223 · 1 pointr/VEDC

Knives.

I feel some sort of a utility-blade knife is great for fine / small / delicate work, and pair it with a nice medium - large, solid fixed blade knife is a good idea.

This is a ridiculously nice knife for the price:

SOG Tactical Knife with Sheath - “Field Knife” Fixed Blade Knives FK1001-CP 4” Fixed Blade Knife with Full Tang Sharp Knife Blade + Survival Knife Grip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUJBTBO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_.n2YBb2XANXSB



Also I’ve found that Schrade knives seem to provide an exceptionally good value. I bought this one for my bag when it was closer to I think $22/23.00....can’t beat that! Honestly I’m prob going to start collecting them. They’re super inexpensive yet pretty good quality / pretty well rated.

As much as I truly love and used to only go for the best, most expensive stuff, I’d rather have several less expensive knives stashed around instead of one super expensive one that I’m afraid to use, lose, break.

Schrade by BTI Tools SCHF36CP Frontier, 5" High Carbon Steel Blade, Full Tang, Clam https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019RSXGYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_Dq2YBb8BG9BV0


I did some research (of course....all my suggestions here are very well researched) and for the price, the 2 knives above are very good values. Don’t get me wrong; I love super high-quality, expensive things - especially knives - but;

  • I have around 20-ish knives and literally the only knife I ever use is my Gerger EAB utility knife and I only use it to open packages. :-|

  • As these are dedicated for car kits, there’s a chance they’ll get lost or stolen so I certainly don’t want a $200+ knife to play that role.



    Gerber EAB Pocket Knife [22-41830] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016KHW2W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_px2YBb0W6VBGD

    These things are ridiculously small and useful. Great for EDC or VEDC. Been carrying one for years & use it all the time. Get the one I linked, NOT the fancy-looking new “upgraded” model - it is a POS. I bought 2-3 and the clip broke off on EACH of them almost immediately. It is also much larger than the original EAB.

    OR you can get something like this because you have spare blades + larger handle / better grip.

    Folding Utility Knife, Heavy Duty, Triple Ground Blades Stay Sharp, Pocket Clip Klein Tools 44131 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A9GGGYY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_wy2YBbA03MMH6




    Also a crowbar of some sort so that you aren’t tempted to use any of your knives as a crowbar.
u/suihcta · 1 pointr/EDC

In rough order, starting from the upper left corner:

u/DiegoRC9 · 1 pointr/EDC

I actually just replaced mine with a Gerber E.A.B utility knife. They're affordable, small, fit anywhere, and obviously have replaceable blades. I absolutely love it.

http://www.amazon.com/Gerber-EAB-Pocket-Knife-22-41830/dp/B0016KHW2W

u/maxpowerAU · 1 pointr/knives

Start with a box cutter, like a Milwaukee Fastback or a Gerber EAB.

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/hand-tools/utility-knives/48-22-1901

https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-EAB-Pocket-Knife-22-41830/dp/B0016KHW2W

Give it a few months of being able to open packages and trim paper into folding dolls for your niece. Don't mention safety or self protection or anything like that at all. Then let your folks see you cutting up your lunch apple with your box cutter.. food prep is where a box cutter is kinda gross and you can pitch for an Opinel or something.

u/hovva91 · 1 pointr/knives

I found this one which looks promising!

Gerber EAB Pocket Knife [22-41830] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016KHW2W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.n-LBbV8B3SK2

u/xtremepado · 1 pointr/knives

The cheapest knife worth carrying that I can think of is the Gerber EAB.

It takes standard utility blades, so it is easy to have a razor sharp blade at all times. It is extremely light and thin, and you will hardly notice it in your pocket. Plus the clip doubles as a very useful money clip.

I believe they sell them at Walmart. I have many expensive knives and this is one that I use very often.

u/Scrivnerian · 1 pointr/EDC

Been meaning to pick up one of these Gerber cutters. I work in an office, seems like a good EDC carry for dress slack pockets, can anyone offer thoughts?

u/Ashtonmore · 1 pointr/knives

Right, I am not going to argue with a free knife. One of two knives I have now too since all my other ones have gotten lost or stolen. The other being a Gerber box knife that I have had for over five years. Old quote in the camera world, the best camera is the camera you have on you. Same could be said about knives I guess.

u/The_Bratheist · 1 pointr/AskReddit

http://www.amazon.com/Gerber-22-41830-Pocket-Knife-Exchange/dp/B0016KHW2W/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_z

This little guy. Much more solid than the "quick-change" variety of blades, yet I can still change the blade in under a minute.

Half of the blade stays guarded, so when it gets dull, you flip it around and you have a new razor sharp edge to last until you get a chance to replace the blade. Snapped off the tip prying something? Flip it around, brand new blade. I love this little thing.

u/myusernameisunique02 · 1 pointr/Tools

Haha I was actually looking at one of those 90 degree angle attachments, but figured I don't really need it yet. Will wait until it goes on clearance.

That makes sense about the bit holders though. Same thing, will wait to find some on sale since I don't need them urgently.

I came across this set of titanium bits on sale, but it only goes to 1/4. /u/blbd mentioned that this is probably the most cost effective option since it doesn't have the pricier bits, but it means if I ever need more bits, I would need a new case; this is why I was going to wait until this one goes on sale, but might be a silly endeavour.

Is this the knife you use currently? Only downside I've seen is someone people say it gets uncomfortable to hold - looks good otherwise.

u/justateburrito · 1 pointr/EDC
u/nater255 · 1 pointr/EDC

Trayvax Element Wallet (Mississippi Mud)

Motorola Nexus 6 (Google Fi)

KeyBar Titanium

Seiko 5 (Japanese Mech)

Gerber EAB Pocket Knife

Gerber Leatherman (1995)

Chapstick (Classic)

Random USB Stick (4gig)

u/Ey3rose · 1 pointr/EDC

I Work as a Purchaser/reciever and open boxes and envelopes all day and I LOVE my Gerber It takes disposable blades that the office buys so its always sharp. It looks good, compact, and its cheep so if someone nicks it I wont be too upset.

u/StormCrow_Merfolk · 1 pointr/XWingTMG

I use the Stanley 10 Bin Organizer for my epic ships, trimming the plastic packaging to fit them, at the moment I have the Raider, Assault Carrier, and Rebel Transport together in one. I'll need a second when I get the CR-90 though.

u/Jaccount · 1 pointr/magicTCG

Home Depot, Lowes or Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B001G1CUK0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1405177855&sr=8-2&keywords=stanley+bin

Its a Stanley removable bin storage box.
The one in the picture is the small one- it only has ten compartments.
I own the larger one, the FatMax XL, which has 14 compartments.

The REALLY nice thing about these boxes is that those containers are removable, swappable and safely/comfortably hold 100 double sleeved cards.

It's actually what I use for my cube because carrying around 720 cards plus 500 basic land plus all the tokens/emblems/etc can be a bit of a hassle.

But yeah, OP got a good deal.

u/xfeignx · 1 pointr/EDH

THIS. Stanley Organizer. This thing holds multiple double sleeved decks and I ended up using one of the leftover spaces to hold tokens and dice.

u/__Nidhogg__ · 1 pointr/Netrunner

Love the Ultimate Guard Twin Flip Tray with Xenoskin. The token holder in the deck box isn't really large enough for everything you need, but a set of dice for casual play fits well there. Tokens themselves are best kept (and organized) in a Plano-style plastic tray with good clasps. You don't want them coming undone in your bag.

I've seen a couple people use Stanley (or similar) brand organizers for carrying a large number of decks around, but you'd want to check the size of the compartments carefully before buying.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G1CUK0

u/Awful_Antagonist · 1 pointr/EDH

I bought two of these. With some rearranging, one will hold six ultra pro boxes (inserted sideways), 7 Commander decks and one more compartment for tokens and dice. Having it just filled with single compartments will hold I think 12 Commander decks.

u/twoghouls · 1 pointr/astrophotography

Rolling tool chest for the marine battery. Army surplus hard case for the Atlas mount. Hard case with foam for smaller scopes. Soft cases or blankets for big scopes. Organizer case from the hardware store for small stuff.

u/Donnchaidh · 1 pointr/XWingTMG

I've been pretty happy with the Stanley cases. The removable compartments make for pretty easy reconfiguring, if you like that sort of thing. You do have to be willing to cut your own foam.

The 10 compartment one is deep enough to fit the Tantive, and should fit at least one other ship in with it. (I only have the one)

Amazon Link


Side note on pistol cases. The criminal element in this world often steals that sort of thing. I've heard stories of people using them to transport other things (model horses), and having their car broken into. Great for solid storage/transport, but worth keeping them out of sight.

u/t-spice · 1 pointr/mtgcube

I second his choice. Heres a link to the product (you can find it cheaper in your local hardware store. EDIT: In Chicago its under $17)

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B001G1CUK0/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=stanley+10+organizer&qid=1555338000&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Heres a link to a picture I have of it in use:

https://imgur.com/utyPAtx

I have 2 monster playmat tubes velcro'd to the sides of the thing as well, so it transports everything I need. In the picture i posted theres a 540 cube, 120 lands, 3 EDH decks, extra sleeves, and dice//tokens.

u/hackedhead_ · 1 pointr/lego

Interesting. for reference, I have 15-20 thousand pieces, and I'm only now considering sorting to be worthwhile. I'm sorting my most common pieces by type (all colors of 1x2 plates in one compartment) and other types in mixed categories (all 1xN slopes in one compartment (1x2, 1x3, 1x4 all together). I'm using these (several of each):

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-25-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B00005QWYF/

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B001G1CUK0/

But with under 5K parts, I'd recommend just sorting by size, as I mentioned before, maybe into something like this, with one drawer for each size:

http://www.amazon.com/Sterilite-20738006-3-Drawer-Organizer-See-Through/dp/B002BA5F6Q/

Hope that helps!

u/nfmous · 1 pointr/DIY_eJuice

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B001G1CUK0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425800531&sr=8-1&keywords=deep+organizer
I also organize it by flavor type, so that if I'm making a creamy flavor I can just grab the cream section and maybe the fruit or nut section out of it
Removable containers OP!
I use for my smaller bottles of flavoring, various needle tips, syringes, etc.

u/darth_something · 1 pointr/EDH

I use one of these for my decks:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G1CUK0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have 8 EDH decks, 1 standard deck, a box with extra sleeves and a dice bag in it. I'm going to attach the tube with my playmat in it to one of the sides using velcro strips.

u/lrawrl · 1 pointr/magicTCG

This version is much cheaper (almost 1/3 the price) and also works very well for storing sleeved cards and deck boxes. I think it is a little smaller though.

u/khelekmir · 1 pointr/magicTCG

We use this to hold most of our commander decks

I don't know if a deck box will fit in not of the compartments, thin ones might. You can fit two deck boxes from the commander anthology in each of the larger compartment.

u/MythicalMothman · 1 pointr/ImperialAssaultTMG

I just ordered some more of these which I use for Armada - I did a dry fit and I think I can cram all the tiles and big models into the deep one and everything else into the other.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G1CUK0

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005QWYF

u/Nova_Violet · 1 pointr/XWingTMG

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G1CUK0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

These are perfect and dirt cheap for storing X-wing miniatures.

Don't bother buying pre-made foam, it's way to expensive for something you can do yourself.

u/InvalidUserAccount · 1 pointr/preppers

We have a couple of these, one in each vehicle and they pull double duty when the power goes out in the house. Propane is cheaper, safer and easier to store for us.

This specific heater has a low oxygen and tip over auto shutoff. We also pair it with a carbon monoxide detector in each room one is running.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ex6eub1PV0R5W

u/NoReallyItsTrue · 1 pointr/Frugal

I'd recommend going on Amazon and sorting by best reviews. You really can't go wrong that way. Once you find two or three models you like, check out if those models are sold at walmart, costco, sams club, etc. first. If they're cheaper there, get them (although I seriously think Amazon's customer service makes even a slightly more expensive purchase worth it).

Although, like the others suggested, maybe go with something that's not electric? It's slightly less convenient, but a better deal (and, hey! That's sorta what we're here for, right?) but here's the highest rated space heater on Amazon currently. It's about the price of a nice electric heater, but possibly more cost effective.

link

u/PabstyLoudmouth · 1 pointr/preppers

The only thing I found my self not truly prepared for was heating my home in an emergency. Thankfully the oven is gas and we just cranked up the oven and opened the door a bit. It was cold in the outside rooms but the living room and kitchen were warm. I was thinking of getting one of these as they say they are safe for indoors but I am kinda skeptical, burning propane emits CO.

u/linuxhiker · 1 pointr/skoolies

Propane heater


Mr. Heater F232000 MH9BX Buddy 4,000-9,000-BTU Indoor-Safe Portable Propane Radiant Heater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_A6yDDb4CB1JKR

And for when it's hot , we hang on the Olympic peninsula

u/codepoet82 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I'd agree with u/muelleej that propane is definitely the way to go for occasional use heat like this. I'd personally recommend a catalytic type heater instead of a direct fired burner though, as the catalytic ones don't produce carbon monoxide. Even when rated for indoor operation, they can still burn up all the oxygen in the room (most have safety shutoffs if o2 gets too low) so you'd need to keep a door or window cracked none the less, but they're a much safer alternative for indoor use.

edit: Here's an example, I have no idea if this brand or model is any good though: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_8fyCDbWPJPNC8

u/Gift_of_Intelligence · 1 pointr/DIY

For a laptop, 130 Watts; for a radio, another 140W, for the USB, 5 Watts, for the camera, 10-15 Watts. For the heater, 1000 Watts, but we'll get to that later. While it might sound like a 350 W continuous inverter would be enough, in truth, they aren't really meant to run at maximum power, and the life expectancy will be drastically reduced. A 750 Watt inverter would be good enough to run everything except the heater.

To power the inverter, you probably want a good deep-cycle battery or two. For calculating how much battery you need, just take the wattage you need and multiply it by the time you need it to run, divide it by the Voltage (12V) and that gives you amp hours (Ah), which is a rating on any battery. You probably want to add a couple, if you calculate that you need 6 Ah, you might want to get an 8 Ah battery because the inverter and the power supplies for your electronics are not 100% efficient..

If you wire the battery(s) and the inverter together, and put them in an egg crate, it's definitely portable. But if you just want a portable drop-in solution, then a UPS may work best.

You can avoid the inverter by buying an automotive DC adapter for your laptop, a USB car adapter, and another automotive DC adapter for the camera. The total cost for all those is going to be roughly equivalent to the inverter but it massively improves the efficiency.

Now, for the heater. You're not going to practically be able to power a heater electrically with batteries. It's not efficient, and the energy density of batteries just isn't where it needs to be. I suggest bundling up, and using something like this, go to Ace hardware, etc and get naptha for fuel, (Should be about $5/quart) or this Using a 20 lb propane cylinder and a hose adapter can make it much cheaper to run.

u/52electrons · 1 pointr/CampingGear

I say split it. Canvas tent and a mr Heater.

Grab one of these.
http://www.kodiakcanvas.com/10-x-14-ft-flex-bow-vx-tent/

And get a buddy heater. That’s what I do. Also get a CO detector that runs on batteries.

Mr. Heater F232000 MH9BX Buddy 4,000-9,000-BTU Indoor-Safe Portable Propane Radiant Heater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rGJ3BbEGK272F

First Alert CO400 Carbon Monoxide Detector, Battery Operated https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N8OYXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dHJ3Bb65YD12X

On super cold nights I’ll let it run, but usually I operate it to keep the ten warm while I’m awake at night getting in my bag or in the morning when I wake up to warm up before I get dressed.

Used this setup in 20deg F camping with my two kids and wife. Heater can more than keep up. Also comes with a tip sensor and Ox sensor. But can always use a backup.

u/EraserGirl · 1 pointr/Maine

19 hours without power...didn't get below 54 in the house..not bad. EVERY person on my block assured me this was highly unusual. I must have jinxed us. Learning my lessons as I go.

I regretted replacing the leaky old gas kitchen stove. meaning i had no serious way to make fire. I ended up putting a candle in a perforated spoon holder from ikea to make tea. and ordered a small stove Esbit Lightweight Camping Stove for Use with Solid Fuel Tablets as long as i can cook tea and ramen i can deal with nearly anything.

I immediately topped off my iphone and kindle with the laptop, and eventually used the small battery charger to recharge the iphone, though i could always charge both in the truck. I order a new battery pack charger that does everything Intocircuit® 11200mAh Power Castle Heavy Duty 5V 2A/1A Dual USB Ports External Battery Pack Charger I really don't think that eton crank radio charges iphones very well.

For the rest of the season i have my eye on a little propane heater.

u/Extra_Intro_Version · 1 pointr/camping

This is what I use

https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU

Camping and in my hunting blind

In a tent, I would really only use it to warm up in morning. Or periodically before bed.

u/HippySol · 1 pointr/electricvehicles

I have one of those Mr Heater little propane heaters for camping so I put it in my car if the day should come that I NEED the heat but cant afford to turn on the cabin heat. It actually heats very well but propane also gives off a lot of humidity so it fogs the windows too. Have to heat with the windows slightly open which is a bit counter productive.

Early adopter problems, eh?

u/hardchargerxxx · 1 pointr/environment

WAAAAHHHHHH!

Be prepared.

indoor heat (works in Queens)

u/BrokenGroup · 1 pointr/TinyHouses

I've got a Mr. Heater Buddy for my tiny camper:

http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU

It's approved for indoor use and you can get a propane tank to hook it to that will last you months. For my camper I basically use it to take the edge off.

u/stinkypuggy · 1 pointr/vandwellers

Try a Heater Buddy.

Used one September through near the end of November while traveling through colder areas in Montana & Wyoming. Lifesaver.

Only downsides are the little tanks only last 6 hours so you have to wake up and re-light. Bigger tanks are an option though.

Might be wise to buy a carbon monoxide detector just incase. It says you can use it indoors but I don't know how small and tightly sealed your van is.

u/JoeIsHereBSU · 1 pointr/preppers

There are actual indoor safe versions at least according to packaging since it has a oxygen safety in it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AVS1DbB2XX224

u/fecklesslytrying · 1 pointr/houseplants

It will work. Fluorescent lights are good because they emit a broad part of the spectrum, vs LEDs which typically produce light much closer a specific wavelength and do not emit much outside of that. Plants like the broad spectrum light, and typically 6500K is a good color temperature for plants. I use these:

Philips 433557 100-watt Equivalent, Bright White (6500K) 23 Watt Spiral CFL Light Bulb, 4-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M6SR1JM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V8W-BbJ5Z53KG

u/Vettit · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Just a run of the mill 6500K compact fluorescent bulb. Here's a 4-pack on amazon , although if you can, maybe support a local hardware store instead.

u/kitnbiskit · 1 pointr/microgrowery

6500K (Daylight) CFL

Something like this

But you will eventually need a better light, LED or HPS.

u/0ju3wb2zvk · 1 pointr/succulents

TL;DR: Is 2000 lumen (daylight CFL and red & blue LED combined, 4" above the plants, giving 10000~15000 lux) enough for succulents like Echeveria?

The picture is from last week. Now I have about a dozen 2" succulents, in addition to a few successful propagations, including Echeveria hybrids, Lithops, Haworthia hybrids, Baby Toes, Key Lime Plant, Graptopetalum, colorful sedum-looking ones, Baby Necklace, really cute red Jade, Moonstones, ... And hopefully the Oscularia deltoides cutting grows some roots soon.

Unfortunately, my apartment gets almost no sunlight indoor or in the balcony. If the succulents are anywhere near the windows, my cat thinks they are all hers. Thankfully she doesn't play with anything on my desk, and having the chubby leaves on my desk makes me really happy, so I decided to keep the plants on my desk.

The problem is that the plants don't get any sunlight at all. I set up one 23W CFL, 100W-equivalent and one 5W LED grow light right next to each other, about 4 inches above the plants. According to a light meter app on my phone, the plants get 10000~15000lx. Both of the lights are on for 14 hours a day. These are the only light source for the plants, since they don't get any sunlight.

Have anybody tried a setup like this? Would this be enough to keep the succulents happy and healthy? Will the Echeveria hybrids get etiolated? Approximately how many lumens do I need to cover one square foot area?

u/dinosaursheep · 1 pointr/houseplants

Philips 433557 100-watt Equivalent, Bright White (6500K) 23 Watt Spiral CFL Light Bulb, 4-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M6SR1JM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pmtUCb8TKMJPN

These have been doing well for me with some clamp lights

u/senpizzle · 1 pointr/cacti

Would any 6500k cfl work, or does it need to specify that it's for growing? For instance, would this work?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M6SR1JM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tY6KzbPDFEBN6

u/wicked_damnit · 1 pointr/succulents

It says it’s 100 watt, 6500 kelvin. Here’s the link if that is more helpful

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M6SR1JM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_43HUDb03WZ3DE

u/scuppernog · 1 pointr/succulents

That light is the right color temperature (6500k), but only puts out 550 lumens. This bulb puts out 1600 lumens at 6500k. I think you're supposed to aim for 2000k lumens per square foot.

u/Trent_The_Ent · 1 pointr/microgrowery

thats a bit out of my price range, I was thinking of something more like this. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M6SR1JM/ref=pd_sim_60_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BRN22AQHEK3P0NM3Y54Y

u/thelizardkin · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Get a couple of these lamps, than you get the brightest screw in compact fluorescent/LED lights you can afford. You want to look for something between 6,000-7,000 on the Kelvin scale, also known as day/cool light bulbs. These are the bulbs you want.

u/WORST_RIVEN_TH · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

AYY LETS GO DUDE

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU Cooler | NZXT Kraken X62 Liquid CPU Cooler | $159.99 @ B&H
Case | Corsair Crystal 460X RGB ATX Mid Tower Case | $139.99 @ B&H
Case Fan | Corsair HD120 RGB 3-Pack w/Controller 54.4 CFM 120mm Fans | $80.99 @ NCIX US
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $380.97
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-07 23:37 EST-0500 |

Slap in some NZXT Hue+ and extension kit and turn your rig into SICK, GLORIOUS RGB ILLUMINATED BEAST.

u/BaoZouJiangHu · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

You can get NZXT HUE+ and mount it outside of the case. I'm using it in my build right now. Here's a video about it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FLpDPfsYQSA

https://www.amazon.co.uk/NZXT-Colour-Changing-Internal-Controller/dp/B018YZ0H1O

Satechi also make LED strips. Search "satechi led" on Amazon.