Best towing ball mounts according to redditors

In the US, on most vehicles, it takes removing one bolt usually called a hitch pin and takes about two seconds to take off. Seeing as the one in the OP can easily cost $200+ he either has a locking pin that needs a key, or he just wants his shit stolen.

I agree with you about towing capacity, but not that they should all be standard size. The size is indicated on the ball, but may have been worn off. The best way to tell is when you put the trailer on. If there is room after latching the trailer completely, then you have the wrong size. This is most practical if you are going to be pulling trailers regularly.

What I do believe however, is that no one should be pulling a trailer that doesn’t know what the hell they are doing.

Hijacking the top comment to post this:

NO HE DID NOT WELD THAT

https://www.amazon.com/MaxxHaul-70355-class-Hitch-Adapter/dp/B00ISLA1WA/ref=sr_1_5?gclid=CjwKCAiAqqTuBRBAEiwA7B66hb-zkBGwN2wxk1GauHSg0UFzgHUcNEZnpfOe2HNRXiKyRnyFWARjYRoCLhQQAvD_BwE&hvadid=323586739560&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9024248&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=b&hvrand=5833784479784469206&hvtargid=kwd-781164020063&hydadcr=18942_10719460&keywords=trailer+hitch+adapter+2+inch+to+1+1%2F4&qid=1573497460&sr=8-5

2 of those ^

https://www.amazon.com/CURT-45110-Class-Ball-Mount/dp/B0007M308A/ref=sr_1_28?keywords=trailer+hitch+drop&qid=1573497493&sr=8-28

1 of those ^

He bolted a bunch of premanufactured adapters together to make this monstrosity

My own THOW is still in the process of being built (it is 4 rafters shy of being completely framed), but so far I've moved it 3 times. First time was about 16 miles, second time was about 10 mi and last time was about 3 mi.

The last move was in the rain, so I had a tarp on it. Had to keep the speed around 15 mph max to keep the tarp from shredding.

I was very nervous about moving it for various reasons, but they all turned out to be for nothing. Some things I learned:

• My THOW seems pretty flimsy (I can make the whole thing flex by standing in the loft and shifting weight from foot-to-foot), but having a band of CS-14 wrap around the whole thing seems to help a lot. Once it get the outer sheath put on, it should firm up greatly.
  
• My trailer requires a 2 5/16ths" ball, so I bought my own receiver mount. Most rental trucks come with only 2" balls. The last rental truck's ball was welded onto the receiver, so I went with it. I wouldn't have tried this if I was going faster than 20 mph and/or over hilly terrain.
  
• It is very important to have the electrical wiring properly connected between the truck and trailer. Many rental trucks have only a 4-pin connector, whereas my trailer has a 7-pin because it has electric brakes. With heavy loads, stopping promptly is nearly impossible without the trailer's brakes working.
  
• Always, always check the trailer tire pressure. You don't want to have a blow-out. It might make sense to keep a spare handy, too ;)
  
  And most importantly:
  
  
• Anyone who nay-says your dream of owning a THOW is a sad individual who wishes they were as cool as you. Don't let 'em bring you down!
  
  My long term goal is to get some property out in the country and move the THOW out there when it is time for vacation. I could easily see moving it 2-3 times a year.
  
  Edit: words

I've had very good luck with Ram X-Grip and their suction mount. Very secure.

Ram Mount Universal X-Grip IV Large Phone/Phablet Holder: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7B2NV4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_clVNub0KVPNWF

There are a variety of other mount and arm options, but this is a good combination:

RAM Mounts (RAM-B-166-103U) 1" Diameter Ball Standard Length Double Socket Arm with 3.25" Diameter Suction Cup Twist Lock Base https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IY2E674/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_9mVNub0R3RNK9

I've taken it camping off onto dirt and not-so-smooth roads several times. Twice pulling a pop-up camper. It performs admirably. Since it's a Mazda, the ride is kind of rough when you get off the well-beaten path, so you have to take it easy, but I never worried about getting stuck in the mud as long as I was paying attention to how deep it was. That being said, always bring short boards and short rope ladders with you to throw down in case you do get stuck. I fit them around my spare tire.

I have a Draw-tite class III hitch on my '13. Took maybe about 45 minutes to install. Hardest part was getting the exhaust hangers off and on, but just took a little encouragement with soapy water. I use a Reese Towpower adjustable ball mount hitch with interchangeable balls that I keep around my spare tire. Works like a charm.

I feel you. Spice it with some ball hitch roulette

I went deep into this hole trying to find a solution. Most hitch racks aren’t deep enough to make it to the hitch and have room for your bike to clear the tailgate and tire. If you really want a worthwhile solution, I found there’s really only 2. Noted this is outside of your budget but it is the only viable, practical hitch solution out there.

First you need a dropper extension for either option. I used this one:


Kuat Hi-Lo 2" Hitch Extension, 7" or 10" Extension, 2 1/8" Rise/Drop Product Name https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ASYPPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_b-QYDbK3F3Y63

I like this one because it uses a threaded pin so the hitch (and rack) does not wobble at all. It extends your hitch point downward and outward.

For racks, either 1UP Prouducts or the Kuat Sherpa 2.0 are the only 2 that sit low enough that (with the hitch dropper) clear the spare tire and allow your tailgate to open with the rack. Otherwise you can’t get into the back of the Jeep with the rack on, even empty and tilted down. I looked at current offerings from all of the major brands and every other brand out there has too much vertical rise and will not clear the tire.

I went with the Kuat due to price, aesthetics, and price. But both are great racks. REI and Rackattack.com are both great sources at the same price.

Consider just adding a sway bar with no WDH.

https://smile.amazon.com/CURT-45820-Sway-Ball-Mount/dp/B003AT6EYO/

https://smile.amazon.com/Pro-83660-Value-Friction-Control/dp/B0016KJ5MC/

https://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpower-7043000-Interlock-Starter/dp/B004J8KVEY?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_10

​

But you really need to know what size ball that trailer uses. most likely a 2" or 1-7/8"

I don't have a rear point. You could install a Curt trailer hitch and get a shackle receiver: https://www.amazon.com/Enhanced-Strap-Shackle-TSM-125-D-Receivers/dp/B01NCQN3G2/ref=pd_sbs_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01NCQN3G2&pd_rd_r=K0A8VXQR86E7GYH0NN3M&pd_rd_w=3pfGW&pd_rd_wg=Zt2Mc&psc=1&refRID=K0A8VXQR86E7GYH0NN3M

I don't know the kind, but it's simply an adjustable-height ball hitch, like this one. You position to the height you wish and run the two bolts through.

Ninja edit: Here's one that uses the same mounting bolt system, but with three ("That's 33% more free, order now and we'll double it!") different-sized balls.

I'm going to get this one just in case there is a problem with the height:

adjustable hitch

Then there are these 2 receivers on amazon, any idea which is the better choice? I'm not really concerned about how they look.

hidden hitch

redrock

They make more portable hoists We always just used a deer caddy as a liter, dolly, and loader to pack a deer out. Winch winders need more pulleys to be more efficient.

Reese tri ball mount

I got this so that way I can tow anything. Also a mount with options like this makes it so you don’t need multiple ball mounts Incase you want to rent a uhaul trailer or a friend needs help towing something. I was very happy with this purchase.

1. Reese Towpower 7028700 Class V Heavy Duty Ball Mount Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004J8FRCK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lgO3Ab2HF9AD6
   
   Also, make sure your hitch pin is long enough for a 2.5 inch receiver.

For sway control, absolutely. These things aren't like pa's tandem axle car hauler. They are built to be light weight and light on the tongue, 10% of the camper weight, so they blow around everywhere. If you want to go the cheap route just buy the sway control and have the metal tab welded (picture 2) welded to an extended ball mount so it looks something like this but gives you more clearance. It's worth the 100 bucks in safety.

The other option is buy The whole set and install it yourself. It's not difficult and there's youtube videos all over the place. If you do buy a WDH bigger is not better. The leverage involved can do a lot of damage to the tow vehicle or trailer so don't just buy a 12000lb set and hook it to your 3000lb tow light.

These numbers are straight out of my ass because I don't know your cab, axle, 4wd, but here goes. Generic v8 full-size truck payload 1500lb. GCVW 7000. Trailer Max- 7500ish

Single axle trailer up to 4500lb- sway control, no WDH
Tandem axle trailer up to 7500- sway control and WDH

Not neciscary, but I know a few guys who have one ton trucks pulling ultra light trailers who use one.

I would opt for sway control, however. When you buy the sway bar, it comes with a tab to weld on to your hitch to mount the ball, or you can buy this Curt like I did.

Id try it. If the trailer sags, bounces the truck excessively, or pushes you around in the wind, start looking to upgrade the hitch.

I picked up one of these to keep things from rattling too much.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EOWR3Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The hitch pin on the BackStage is threaded. It bolts into the BackStage hitch, pinching the hitch inside the hitch receiver making it not move at all... It is basically an anti-rattle assembly built in to the hitch. Once tightened, it cannot move at all inside the hitch. It is not a simple pin with a lock pin on it. It is all bolted together.

See hitch anti rattle kit