Best track lighting products according to redditors
We found 295 Reddit comments discussing the best track lighting products. We ranked the 128 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 295 Reddit comments discussing the best track lighting products. We ranked the 128 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Links to the LED's and wire that I bought:
Music Led Strip Lights, TaoTronics Christmas Rope Lights Kit (300 Leds, RGB,20 Key, 16.4ft) 5050 RGB SMD Leds
[4 Color 12M 4 Pin RGB Extension Cable Line Wire For LED Strip RGB 5050 3528 Cord]
(https://www.amazon.com/EvZ-Color-Extension-Cable-Strip/dp/B00XFSNKXS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1487516299&sr=8-3&keywords=4+Color+4+Pin+RGB)
*Edit, just noticed that the specific lights I bought are not available but These seem to be the same thing
I've been using these HitLights LED strip for over a year, no complaints 9/10 for this price.
old setup with the LED's from last year
current setup still same kit
Edit: You might also want to pick up a strip-to-strip connector for $7 like this one so it looks cleaner along the corners but it's not necessary considering the LEDs will be hidden anyways.
For anybody that want's to do this but are scared to solder,or just want things easier. They sell connectors for these light strips that get rid of having to solder completely.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00977FHG4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3A3W1Z0CUSK9T&coliid=I26ROOAIL77ZA4
$14 Discraft Weekender Bag
$24 12V Rechargable Battery Pack
$15 UV LED Strip
$4 Menu cover
$6 Power splitter
$5 Power Plugs
Total = $68
Pasting a comment i made a few months ago. open source version using fastled and an unofficial build of prismatek
>https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011BD2B5Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NLAMS9C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TT2QM5W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FSGGJLY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>measured and cut led strips, connected them via the corner connectors. the end of the led strip comes with a power plug and a 4pin connector (looks similar to a PWM fan connector) connect that with the rainbow wires to a programmed arduino.
>https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EAF4YNE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>power supply i used. it was more expensive to get it via amazon, but those are the parts i used to make a solder-free setup. you could order same or similar parts and get it real cheap from china.
>https://youtu.be/NIIXmleTbP0 video of it in action :)
OK. Let's make that the focal point of the room.
1.Above the bar only, maybe a few feet out. Remove the drop ceiling. Leave it for the rest of the room, if you like. Once you pull the ceiling, paint the structure above in flat black, to make it kind of disappear. You want the headroom to make it stand out from the rest of the basement.
2.For lighting, use micro spot lights on the bar itself. Something like this would really make a statement:
https://www.amazon.com/Tech-Lighting-800CBL5PN-Accent-Nickel/dp/B002N2W90M?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0
3.People need a foot rail to feel relaxed. You can buy or make one for not too much money.
4.Behind the bar you need a focal point. I am assuming that you'd have a TV somewhere else, so that is out. But what if you built four shelves, two one each side, with a space in the middle. Then find a place that makes neon signs, and create a special, one-of-a-kind sign for your bar. I am a Don Henley fan, so my retreat is called "The Sunset Grill". See if you can come up with something unique.
5.Every bar needs tunes. I propose that you do not put a bookshelf system behind the bar. I suggest that you start looking at Ebay, CraigsList, 2nd hand stores. What you want is an old jukebox. It would be better is it didn't work. What you want is the shell. Then you could outfit it with Blutooth, Pandora, streaming media off your home network.
Hope this gives you something to think about. You are really lucky. This is going to be a blast to build.
I'll link the full order:
I am
not 100%happy with the light strip I got.They are super sensitive to the power draw and flickers time to time(maybe it's the power adapter =/). Though, it's cheap and does its job pretty well![EDIT] correcting the led power connect as opinted out by /u/BishoujoReview
[EDIT] flickering was due to an old extension cord. I plugged the power adapter directly to the wall outlet and that solved the problem.
It is pretty easy to use, it has adhesive backing so it sticks. You can cut it to the length you need. I used These to connect the different strips that I cut. I also got some of This to extend the connectors.
Got everything from amazon.
LEDs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008GYTVSY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Driver: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VM28NWW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Dimmer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JQ437YM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Connectors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0062RBR84/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ordered a driver two-pack incase I came up with a use for the extra LEDs.
ac adaptor
right angle connectors
LED strips
You can use bluetooth to turn them off.
I use these because the Vive Pre base stations didn't have bluetooth: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CWNMB86/
So I bought a used 2008 pontoon last year, and decided to do a budget update to get her ready for the new season. Tried to keep it under $1000, but the last minute decision to get a new Bimini put the project over that.
For those curious, here are the materials I used.
60' of .030 black aluminum paneling: $295 from Pontoonfence.com
Nav Lights:$20
Docking Lights: $30. I'm keeping an eye on these. Some reviews complained of them not being waterproof. I ran a bead of silicone around the lens and where the wires enter the body. Hoping they hold up.
Waterproof LED Strip Lights $40 for two sets. I'm really happy with these.
LED RGB control wires $9
Polk DB651 6.5" Speakers $118 ($59/pair)
Kenwood Marine Bluetooth Amplifier $135
Pyle Marine speaker wire $9
Engine Parts (Plugs, Impeller, Lube) $40
Power wash rental: $30
Misc expenses (mounting tape, nonskid tape, screws, bolts, etc) ~$100
Replacement Bimini and boot from restorepontoon.com $219
Total: $1,045
So we bought some RGB led's from amazon, auto wire, a switch and [extension wire] (http://www.amazon.com/Color-Extension-Cable-Line-Strip/dp/B00DPQMKBS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416110978&sr=8-1&keywords=rgb+extension+wire)
Tap into the 12v cig plug(or any 12 volt that turns off with your car) and run it to the power side of the controller box. Then cut the led's to length and use the double sided tape that comes with it to hold it in place out of sight. Solder the extension wire between the driver and passenger side footwells and to the back. The front was easy, however the backseat was harder.
We had to take the seats out in the back to run the wire under the carpet to keep it hidden. Then there's a 1/4" gap where we put the lights. It is on the bottom, where the seat fabric meets the metal frame of the seat.
To run it to the bed, we had to take the plastic storage behind the seat to find a rubber grommet that is on the driver's side behind the seatbelt about 6-9" from the floor. Its a 1/2" rubber grommet that just plugs a hole and has no other purpose. then run the wire beneath the bed.
We took the railing on the sides of the bed(4 torx bolts per side) and then popped off the plastic that sits on top of the bed sides. Using 3M 20lb double sided tape, we attached the LED's to the bottom side of the rails that were removed. Then the wires were run through the holes that hold that plastic top piece in place. Those holes give access to the inner fender wells where the wire was securely zip tied and run to the other side of the bed and the same process was done.
We later found out that the lights in the bed cannot be in their fade mode while the truck was in motion, so we had to run a separate switch to the bed section so it could be turned off independent of the interior lighting.
If you have any specific questions, feel free to PM me and ill call my buddy to take more pictures for you! It was his new truck that we did it to, not my personal car.
Just run extension cords behind the wall or within the cabinets. That way stove heat won't be a problem. If you want to save money just buy bulk wire. But if you connect more than 16ft of lights in a single circuit, then you needed an amplifier which needs to be plugged into an extra power supply otherwise the lights near the ends of the circuit will be dimmer and also off color. Color correctness comes from adequate power.
So this is my, in progress, setup. Please ignore the mess as I've been changing things around, adding stuff etc. And yes the TV power cord will eventually be hidden 😉
My goal is to RGBW the back of the desk. I at least wanna do the whole straight desk and possibly the curved part too(opinions?). That's simple enough and I have the LED strip to do that. My question comes in for the monitor and TV. I'm not sure of the best way to get RGBW strips behind both of those without running separate power supplies etc. I don't want to do this so they all operate off the same remote.
I have this being shipped to me and I was just gonna run the cable through the wall to each screen, then attach additional LED strip to it:
http://s.aliexpress.com/qyIfeiUN
1, I'm not sure how to attach it. Do I solder the extension onto each end? And #2, should I buy some sort of connector that's easier? That's where I'm getting confused. Because I see things like these and they seem so much easier:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013JRRPCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_98iSybFKW6B25
Or
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019MTK554/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_P9iSyb3JRFMJK
Thanks!!
Here are the components I got:
RGB LED Strip Lights Kit,BEILAI RGB LED Light Strip Waterproof SMD 5050 DC 12V Flexible Neon Tape 16.4 Ft (5M) 300leds with 44key Controller for Christmas Kitchen Party Indoor and Outdoor decoration https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KSPR5GS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_p6mWBbZ9XWQ7N
EvZ 22AWG 4pin LED Electric Wire 22 Gauge 33ft 10m Conductor Extension Cable Line Cord for RGB LED Strip 5050 3528 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DPQMKBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_r7mWBbSQEZB0T
EvZ 10PCS LED 5050 RGB Strip... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CMLLKHG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
12V DC Battery Pack, 6000 mAh... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U2PVX36?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
And a bunch of male/female connectors - but I can’t find the link. Also make power connectors for the power bank.
Soldering was a pain because the led leads are so close together. Used a knitting ring in the hoodie opening to keep it stiff and hot glued the whole contraption onto some black sweats. No time this year but I want to play with Tron type costumes next year.
like these https://www.amazon.com/Connector-JACKYLED-Non-waterproof-Splitter-conductor/dp/B011BD2B5Q/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B011BD2B5Q&pd_rd_r=5ae782b3-ee0c-11e8-b5ba-5dfed4e35b83&pd_rd_w=P4U5P&pd_rd_wg=QOlxe&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=6725dbd6-9917-451d-beba-16af7874e407&pf_rd_r=R7YXNJXKSHVCZZ9VS9BZ&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=R7YXNJXKSHVCZZ9VS9BZ
This, and this
I used SMD RGBWW Lights from Amazon. Here is and album of them at night. I have used 3 of 4 strips so far. The remote works great from a long distance without line of site and allows for multiple zones. I have it set on a timer to turn on at dusk. I leave them on fading between colors and during holidays I can choose whatever color I see fit. It is a bit of work but I love the look. Very unique.
Supplies:
i bought these LED strip lights, which can be cut down to whatever length, and this power supply. i also bought some extra wire and connectors so i could run one long strip of LED lights through all four enclosures. worked around the adhesive issue by hot gluing the fuck out of them. i scratched up a line about two inches away from the front wall, to create some texture for the hot glue to grab, and allowed some extra glue to sort of wrap around the strip and prevent the strip from being peeled away from the glue.
Same, but mine don't have an extension so you have to be tall enough to reach them, but here's a link for anyone interested.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CWNMB86
I did something like that for my Lego shelf. Used some LED strips and a motion sensor module to keep it all automatic. I had no idea what I was doing and bought a bunch of stuff I didn't need, but...
And if you're comfortable soldering, that's pretty much all you need to get something up and running. But I wanted to make it all modular so I could take it apart and set it back up without too much hassle. So I ended up buying adapters and coaxial power cable things:
I'm pretty sure I did it as inefficiently and cost ineffective as possible because I have severe amazon impulse control issues and just buy shit to get started on fun projects. I'm sure with a little more research/guidance you could do it a little cheaper. But I'm happy with my setup for now.
and here's a picture of the shelf. The shelf is terrible, and it's all a wreck because I'm in the middle of moving, but it shows the brightness pretty well. Oh and I have about a 1/4 roll of LEDs left, so I'd guess 2 or 3 rolls would take care of your shelf.
LEDs: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KCHRKD6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
the power supply is really bad for most reviews. I'd suggest getting a laptop charger with multiple connectors, unless someone else knows a better way.
links: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00977FHG4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I am also a neophyte, but have made several diy grow lights recently. Take everything I write with giant grains of salt.
You can buy a CXB3590 (3500 K, 36VDC) for $38 from digikey. An LED holder from newark ( http://www.newark.com/ideal/50-2303cr/led-holder-cree-cxa35-cob-array/dp/39X0077 ) runs about $3. You can buy a 900mA driver for it off amazon for $11 ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSANIYC ). You can buy a household AC box and a light switch for about $5 from home depot. Scrounge a PC AC cable, some wire for the DC side, some solder. Dig through old electronics for a good heat sink, a fan. Ask some computer folks for thermal paste.
That would bring you close to $50.
From that you can make a 30W led light, I think get over 5000 lumens, and it'd probably be pretty good quality, and not terribly dangerous.
For the AC side, do everything in the electrical box, and make sure it's grounded. Random stuff happens, don't let it happen to you. Electrical shock sucks, but poorly done AC wiring stuff could get hot, start a fire, so putting it in a box is a must. And it's really nice to have a the AC switch. You could simplify, leave out the switch, and use wire nuts, but it's still absolutely necessary to do that in a box and ground that box.
On the DC side, I used these barrel connectors ( https://www.amzn.com//B06Y4YXRMC ) with the wiring to the LED. It's also nice. EDIT: I don't know what these connectors are rated for, but they seemed pretty sturdy.
Sorry, again, I have some electronics background, but I'm new to lighting, so it's foolish of me to even comment.
They are just about all cuttable - you just need a connector.
Try this one : https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B078VBVVMW
With this : https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01HRMPDC8
I was running this at 2.5 amps without a heat sink but it will take much more if you have a fan or heat sink. 18 gauge wire will do fine with some headroom (1mm if metric). 20 gauge wire would normally be fine but low voltage wire can come in a connected pair so they are derated. For example, this 20 AWG wire pair is being derated to 3.2 amps by the manufactuer although the current-wire size charts would normally show this wire to be fine. That wire would be fine for 30-35 watts on this LED and the same wire I used on my testing.
Buy this 18 AWG wire:
https://www.amazon.com/BNTECHGO-Silicone-Flexible-Strands-Stranded/dp/B01AQOI36M/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_60_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YPDAJMHZ4QMNAVG1TRSJ
Keep in mind that this is a constant voltage setup that you're likely doing. 12.6 volts and 12.8 volts can have a significant difference on current levels and how hot this COB gets so you want to actually measure the current level. Different COBs can have different voltage drops and COB temperature also plays a role in voltage drop and thus current levels in a constant voltage setup.
OP Delivers and sorry for the delay. Thanks to /u/maxwellsearcy for reminding me!
Now, cut the plugs off one side of the lights and off the power supply. Match the wires up on the Dresden ballast with RGB+ on the LEDs. Carefully strip away the outer shielding on the power supply cord and then strip the tiny wires on the inside of the power supply wire. Put those into the power screw points on the Dresden. Plug it in and test. It should come on a solid color.
Now that you have it working, go into your Hue app and scan for new lights. You will see 2 lights pop up for every Dresden ballast you configure. Once it's done scanning, click them in the app and make sure they flash. One of them will NOT flash and you can safely delete that one.
That's it!
You can cut and use a connector.
https://www.amazon.com/Solderless-Light-Strip-Connector-Extension/dp/B006VZKSNC
>It was a bit of a crude process and I wish I had the tools to do it more effectively but basically what I did was take a high density RGB LED light strip and connect it to a four pin strap connector (link below). I then took out the white led and reflector from the inside of the card and replaced the whole reflector with the light strip. Next I took the GTX logo out of the card and sanded off the green outer coat on the lettering and placed it back inside, I put a few pieces of printer paper between the lights and the logo to help with light dissipation and routed the cable out through a small hole next to the IO shield on the front of the card. sorry that this isn't the best step by step guide on how to do it (I honestly got into it without a clue what I was doing) but hopefully this helps just a little bit with your process. Thanks for asking!
>
>https://www.amazon.com/iCreating-Connector-Conductor-Controller-Solderless/dp/B074G48LWQ/ref=sr\_1\_5?keywords=rgb+strip+connector&qid=1550632831&s=gateway&sr=8-5
​
Here's what I would get as a budget option. The products posted are just examples, not necessarily something I would recommend. Just what I came across with a quick search on Amazon. I did something similar in my bedroom by dropping strips into crown molding that I put up about 6" below the ceiling.
LED strip lights, this will let you make 2 lines of them on top of the beam. Lay them out and test them before you tape them down, you may find that you need to mount them on something to give them a little angle to get full coverage. Your just going to have to experiment.
Jumper cables. These will let you cross the bumps in the beam without the lights sticking up and looking ugly, and then turn around to power the 2nd line. Get enough to make all the jumps you need, the turn and a couple extra.
Finally ditch the cotroller they come with. Those IR remotes are all crap and don't work very well. You have to end up standing in just the right spot with the controller pointed just right to make changes. Next I tried a wifi option with an app to control the lights. It worked ok, and being able to set them to turn on and off at certain times was nice. The problem was that it was slow, I found myself not turning them on very often because it would take a minute or two to open the app, wait for it to find the lights and then turn them on and change colors. I ended up with a remote similar to this one that was RF with a color wheel. It's not as precise as the wifi app and doesn't have lots of nifty features, but it's simple and easy.
Hey OP, instead of keeping the info in chat I'll post here so others might be able to use it.
I'm assuming you have no experience splicing wires, soldering, or using heat shrink tubing, so I found some quick connect things you should be able to use.
So, the parts I have here are the LED Strip (marked as 'sections' since you will be cutting it), the L Connectors, the 'Wire Harnesses', the Adapters, and the Wire itself.
I drew up a small diagram here with explanation.
​
If you, or someone you know would be able to do the stuff mentioned above, this could have a lot less parts by doing aware with the adapters and wire harnesses and just soldering the wire between LED strips.
(Maybe there is a local Makerspace near you that could assist)
​
Also, instead of the LED strip method, I've seen people with LED bars the run the length of the shelf, and have wires to connect up to another bar. Something like this. (search" LED under cabinet lighting")
If the above diagram seems too difficult, or you're not able to get anyone to assist, then this would be a super easy option for you.
​
Don't waste your money with Phillips Hue strip lightning. There are generic brands that connect directly to a Google Home or Alexa device, assuming you have one... You get way more length and they are much more vibrant. I have had mine for over a year with no issues.
The lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076RNNH1F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MlWKBbB03197B
The connectors I bought https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078VBVVMW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.oWKBbS9RAMP4
For smaller jobs there are smaller sets of connectors...
This is my next project...
https://github.com/steve228uk/homebridge-magichome
SUPERNIGHT WIFI Wireless LED Smart Controller Working with Android and IOS System Mobile Phone Free App for 16.4ft 300 LEDs RGB LED Light Strips https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JS0KEBW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XJn-ybKJ9WEBS
Alightings 4pin LED Connector Connect Wire to Strip, Applicable for 10 mm 5050 RGB Waterproof LED Strip Lights, 22 - 20 AWG Cable Without Stripping the Wires https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I8CDF58/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jKn-ybEXT5PVQ
EvZ 4 Color 10m RGB Extension Cable Line for LED Strip RGB 5050 3528 Cord 4pin https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DPQMKBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yKn-ybSYT4318
EPBOWPT 12V 5A Power Supply AC Adapter for 5050 3528 RGB LED Strip Light Low Voltage Device https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KT20TNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OKn-ybWC82QCH
SUPERNIGHT (TM) 16.4FT 5M SMD 5050 Waterproof 300LEDs RGB Color Changing Flexible LED Strip Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DTOAWZ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4Kn-ybSM88NFB
Plain RGB strip? Just grab these jumpers or these corner connectors and cut the strip on the marks. Clip in the strip and bam, done.
Soldering: The led strip lights can be cut and and you can solder on some wire to make easy corners. I have a strip with whites in it so this is the wiring I ordered with mine. You would want wire for RGB strips (4 line) if you don't have and RGBW strip.
yeah, you'll just need a connector like this:
http://www.amazon.com/HitLights-Angle-Light-Connector-SMD3528/dp/B0062RBR84/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1421782254&sr=8-4&keywords=led+strip+connector
Track lighting. Usually they're placed on the roof. Similar to these.
Soldering is a good skill to have and basic soldering irons are very inexpensive. Try it!
Your other option is to buy longer wire and use strip to wire connectors on both ends of the wire.
The strips usually ends with a cable and a 4pins male connector. But you also need to buy an adapter (look at my first comment ;) ) because also the motherboard got a 4pins male connector. So you need a female to female 4 pins cable. And if you plan to use the strip that you just cutted, than you need this kind of adapters:
https://www.amazon.com/WOWLED-10PCS-Female-Connector-Strip/dp/B01A0B8O24/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505487537&sr=8-3&keywords=4+pin+cable+led+male
Also I suggest you to buy these connectors since it's pretty difficult sometimes to attach the strip on angles, with these you can just cut the strip in two pieces and connect it with the adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/Zitrades-10PCS-Connector-Conductor-Jumper/dp/B00977FHG4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1505487310&sr=8-4&keywords=led+strip+connector
EDIT: Regarding rainbow effect, that is what I was talking about. The whole led strip will change color continuously but always one color at once.
Another idea. Need to have the lights far from the power source? Use this cable with these connectors. A slight bit of soldering (use heat shrink tubing around the solder joints) and you're in the game!
When I disconnect the last strip I get no lights anywhere. To test what may have happened I also tried connecting a completely new light strip to the power supply and controller but this also yielded no light. I am assuming this is because I fried the controller and/or power supply. Hopefully the actual strips are still functional but time will tell. I have purchased a new 'starter kit' from the Best Buy and will be testing the viability of a run of my intended length soon (before actually mounting any wires in my shelves). I am also going to try to use some Hualand extension cables to see if they will be more stable than my homemade extensions with soldered connections. My basic plan is to run eight 3.3 foot LIFX strips with a 6.6 foot Hualand in between each strip to see if the power supply and controller can handle the voltage drop that will result from this kind of run. I am cautiously optimistic that this approach will at least determine one way of the other if LIFX strips will be able to do what I want them to before I start running cables and making connections in tight spaces behind and under shelves. Will try to update this post once I have tested this out.
I bought these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XDLMYMQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They make the controllers very heavy. After taking both the protective shell and skin off the controllers it felt like the controllers had no weight to them at all. I took them off because I was having tracking issues and because I'm not doing anything but development right now. Most likely the tracking issues are my own fault - my setup isn't the best and I haven't taken the time to improve it.
I am 6'5" or so. I hit my ceiling when playing games, so the shell is great for protecting my controllers. I'd recommend them for problem games but not for full time use.
Edit: Not on topic but this is the best accessory I've bought. Two switches to turn the lighthouses off. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CWNMB86/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the one I've been using: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040FJ27S/
There may be better and worse ones out there; honestly I don't remember how I chose that. But I have three of them and they've worked well for me.
So far I haven't run into any problems. When/if you splice the strips, obviously make sure you keep the wires in order. They sell pre-made connectors and splitters, but I didn't really use any of those. I did buy some of these connectors: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006VZKSNC but all I ended up using them for was the raw wire (I cut the ends off an soldered them directly to the strips).
In the Arduino-controlled setup, I re-used the power supply that came with the strip, and just fed it through the mosfets linked above. I discareded the remote and the little controller box (well, I filed them away for potential later use).
In my application I found that the adhesive on the back of the strips didn't work very well, so I ended up taping it up with gaffer tape. That works well for me because the strip is in a recessed area you can't see unless you crane your neck to look for it. But if the strips were somewhere more visible, I'd need to look for a more elegant mounting solution.
I used this light strip from Amazon. I'm really happy with them. Installation was a breeze. I bought a splitter and L-shape connectors to make things easier.
I used this LED strip
The strip is 16 feet long, so i measured out a rectangle for the top of my case, and the front length of the case. I then cut the strip into sections so i could run the cable how i wanted.
I used these adapters to connect each of the sections i made
For the connection from the front left cable to the front right cable, i spliced one of the connectors with some white spare cable i bought, and ran it across the bottom of the case (seen in one of the pictures. Then i mounted everything with 3M mounting tape, which is highly recommended. Let me know if you have other questions, as I made some mistakes which cost me some length of LEDs but was overall not too hard.
So every year I like to "build" something to make the campsite a little more hospitable/more glamping like. Last year I used three of these in series at the tops of our two EZ-Ups. I then wired them up to one of the car batteries with a switch in between it and the lights. Worked like a charm. The switch sat on top of the front wheel driver's side tire, so it was somewhat concealed while being right at the entrance to our campsite. The amount of light off of three of those was also pretty impressive. Our entire 14 person (4 cars) campsite was super bright at night. The LEDs don't draw much power (obviously don't leave them on all night) so a morning run of the engine (which we did everyday to charge phones and whatnot) kept the battery from dying.
How long? RGB (white is blueish) or RGBW (extra white LED)?
This seems to be the same model I used for a project (giant lamp). Worked perfectly fine. Afaik if you got yourself another controller it'd respond to the same remote.
You can cut the stripes as you see fit and reconnect them. You'd need something like this for easy connection when you cut it up. As an extension cable you can use whatever you like as long as it provides 5 wires.
Inside is likely a transformer. This appears to be for low-voltage cable lighting like this. Why it's there I can't guess.
https://www.amazon.com/800CBL5PN-Electronic-Surface-Lighting-Halogen/dp/B002N2W90M
You need connectors like this or you could get a bunch.
Not really there's a "second" cable that deals with RGB only, not the power to the fan.
they are the round pinned cable here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FKL6C1/
the arrow on the cable points to PIN 1 on the motherboard.
On the motherboard they are the white connectors if you look at the 1st picture here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FVYKFXF
It's Labeled RGB Header1, (Bottom left corner) and it looks like you only have the one connection point, so you'll need a splitter to extend to each fan that has it.
12V G R B and next to it is ADDR_LED1
So your motherboard can have addressable RGB and Synchronized RGB fans.
Cool. How did you bend it around the corners? As a trial run, I tried a shorter trip around a wall mounted tv and it was a pain to get it to bend at the corners. Then saw a forum post about how they sell these 4-pin right-angle connectors that let you join strips after you cut them. According to some youtube videos I've seen, the strips seem easy to cut. There is a dotted-line every few inches. Then once you cut them, you insert it into the connectors and the pins will touch the copper dots where the strip was cut. Of course, I haven't done this yet. Just based on what I've seen. I guess, I'll soon find out :)
You should be able to use LED extension cables, but I don't know how finicky the HUE system is with them.
Like this.
Bought them from Amazon for less than $20. Also bought extra RGB wires that connect the cut stripes behind the shelves. Plus Silicon Clips incase the tape wears off.
Closer Image of Right shelf
all constant voltage LED strips are customizable in length. All you need to do is cut across the cut points (usually marked)
As long as you have the correct power supply (12V or 24V) that shouldn’t matter.
These connectors make it a bit easier when connecting strips together, although I’m not sure if they come in longer lengths. Just make sure they’re the right width.
HitLights LED Light Strip Connector, 8mm Single Color 3528-6 Inch Any Angle Strip to Strip, 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0062RBR84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nLfrDb5BWSWBD
ETA: let me know if you need help :)
If you don't want to mess with soldering the LED strips in the future, there are premade LED connectors available in just about every size and shape and for almost every style of strip. They're also decently cheap.
Also, USB outlets, while expensive, are well worth it.
Absolutely beautiful table!
Mobile Users: This is pretty photo heavy.
​
I've worked on this over the last two and a half weeks in the evenings and on weekends. I've probably got around 50-60 hours in so far.
The project is complete, there are just some other things I'd like to eventually do with the programming for the LEDs.
Tools
Exacto/razor blades
Heatgun - for heat shrink, you can just use a lighter
Soldering Iron
Phillips Screwdriver
Laptop/Computer for programming with Arduino or CircuitPython
Printer - laser or inkjet
​
Supplies/Parts
Various Rustoleum Spray paints - $20 total
Multi-Strip - $15
Masking tape and paper - $10-15
Extra razor blades - $5
Printer sticker paper - $15
Electrical Tape - $1
3m double sided foam tape - $4
Heat Shrink - Not sure, maybe $5 new for the assorted kit?
Adafruit Trinket: https://www.adafruit.com/product/3500 - $8
5v 4 amp Power Supply: https://www.adafruit.com/product/1466 - $15
White LED On/Off switch: https://www.adafruit.com/product/917 - $5
White LED Momentary Switch: https://www.adafruit.com/product/558 - $5
DC Power Jack: https://www.adafruit.com/product/373 - $0.95
Small Perma Proto PCB Board: https://www.adafruit.com/product/1608 - $3
50 feet (I used about 15 feet) 4 pin RGB extension wire: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GFW6ZB3/ref=pd_luc_rh_sspa_dk_huc_pt_expsub_2?psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExUlMwQ1ZSRzJSQ0tUJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTQzMzg2M1FSRk9TSUFIMllNMyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzEzNDU5QlQ3MFBCSTZKRUVDJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfaHVjX21yYWkmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl - $10
50 pair (lol) JST Connectors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NBSH4CA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - $11
16.7 foot reel of addressable LEDs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LSF4Q00/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - $21
​
I think that's all of it, I'll update if I think of anything else.
I think I may heed your advice and get some RGB ones.
As for your comment on soldering, I am a little nervous about that. At least at my newbie status with all of this. Do any of these do the same thing?
EvZ 4 Color 10m RGB Extension Cable Line for LED Strip RGB 5050 3528 Cord 4pin
Zitrades 10PCS LED 5050 RGB Strip Light Connector 4 Conductor 10 mm Wide Strip to Strip Jumper
4PCS 2M 6.56ft 4 Color RGB Extension Cable LED Strip Connector Extension Cable Cord Wire 4 Pin LED Connector for SMD 5050 3528 2835 RGB LED Light Strip ( 4 PCS )
There are some splitters on amazon
4 Pins black rgb LED Splitter Cable LED Strip Connector 8 Way Splitter Y Splitter for One to Eight RGB 5050 3528 LED Light Strips with,1m rgb wire，10x male to male 4pin plugs
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FKL6C1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_HHkzCbTTTX5QP
http://www.amazon.com/Zitrades-10PCS-Connector-Conductor-Jumper/dp/B00977FHG4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1436291634&sr=8-4&keywords=light+strip+connector
The LED strips are cut-to-length at specified locations (usually indicated by scissor icons).
You can either go with an adapter or do it yourself method. If you want to use an adapter or premade connector you can use something like: 90 Degree Connector or RGB Connector. If you want to look for other products just lookup something like "RGB LED Strip Connector."
If you want to go the DIY path to route around curves or sharp 90-degree bends, you will need to cut the strips and solder them together. You'd want to use small wire, so if you maybe have a spare ethernet cord, you could use the wires found within to use as connectors.
So one thing to note is you should have good plan to solder, unless you plan on using that last link, but those are way too big. These wires are like 26 gauge. Also when you cut silicon it makes it not water proof, so may need some like silicon or something to seal each end.
Could use something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/iCreating-Connector-Conductor-Controller-Solderless/dp/B074G48LWQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1539742033&sr=8-4&keywords=led+strip+to+wire+connector+3+pin&dpID=51kzc4nBvjL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
or this
https://www.amazon.com/Alightings-Connector-Waterproof-Lights-Connection/dp/B06XHCFMB5/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539742033&sr=8-3&keywords=led+strip+to+wire+connector+3+pin&dpID=511V-NwYvlL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Just look for 3 pin wire to strip connector or something like that.
> I agree eating alone is probably the worst part of solo travel but from my experience, local people are quite friendly. There has been many occasions where they invited me to eat with them even with the language barrier. It was quite enjoyable. Maybe I just got lucky with people.
Ow yes absolutely, I've had a couple occasions where I was invited or simply joined a table and had a great chat. I even made some friendships this way, saw one of them back last year too.
> LOL. My GF will be very happy to see that you've been working hard on her section of the room. Those options do create more space, she'll probably like it. Many thanks.
Hah, no problem! I like to help out as best as I can. I really get joy out of 'designing' as well, so this was fun. Let me know what she thinks as well.
> I'm definitely going to add RGB and Kraken x62 and NZXT Vue+ lol. Going to go all out~
Will do this for you! I don't recommend the NZXT Hue+, instead I highly recommend to just use on-board RGB headers!
^(hilarious video, but it shows you how to set it up)
This allows you to sync other RGB parts together if the products allow for it, but the main reason is that you don't need a box inside the case and a controller. You simply use software to control the RGBs.
> Yeah I'm going to wait out on the monitor. i'm thinking either the ROG or ASUS or ACER 34+"
I think it's too much money personally. I mean.. my lasts years holiday was about equal the price of those two monitors. And I had to save a good bit to get this together. If you can justify it, I won't stop you. But I don't recommend it highly.
> The curved monitor I'm still debating. I heard photo editing is hard as well but I love the gimmick. I would never buy a curved TV so why not a curved monitor. Haha! + I heard it is decent for gaming?
I've got experience with a small sample of curved monitors, both TVs and gaming monitors I had a bit of time with. The curved TV was just.. weird and didn't work at all for me. I adjusted my distance from the TV many times to find a 'comfortable' viewing spot. The main problem I had was when I was not right in the centre, it just really makes it a bit weird. I mean, you probably get used to it, but I would not cash out on this at all personally.
> The curved monitor I'm still debating. I heard photo editing is hard as well but I love the gimmick. I would never buy a curved TV so why not a curved monitor. Haha! + I heard it is decent for gaming?
Do what you want, there are a lot of curved 3440x1440 displays. I will not stop you.
I personally love Dell and would really like that monitor.. If it wasn't curved. xD
It's something I just don't find useful. It does probably helps a little bit depending on your eyes field of view. But I currently use a 16:9 2560x1440p monitor and when I look at the left now (I am typing here), I can still see the right side just fine where the extra couple inches would be when I upgrade to a 3440x1440p display.
It is indeed not great for photo editing especially. I have no personal experience with this, but I can really imagine that it's not going to be helpful in the slightest. Depending on how serious you're into editing I suppose..
For games, it depends again on what games I think. The demo that I saw had Rise of the Tomb raider running which absolutely looked fenominal. But the curves didn't really add much for me personally.
---
Please ask anything that you want to know. This would be extremely overkill for you, but your girlfriend will love it. If you get the exact same system.
Here is my list of explanation videos and guides to help you understand what you're getting yourself into! Not sure if you saw this one already or not. I know it is a big list, but you don't have to watch everything, just what you want more information on. If you get any questions while watching those videos, ask ask ask!
Here is what I would recommend.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 7 1700X 3.4GHz 8-Core Processor | $347.76 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | NZXT - Kraken X62 Rev 2 98.2 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $159.99 @ B&H
Motherboard | MSI - B350 TOMAHAWK ARCTIC ATX AM4 Motherboard | $119.99 @ Amazon
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $154.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung - 960 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $219.99 @ B&H
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $66.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | Asus - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB STRIX GAMING Video Card | $739.99 @ Newegg
Case | NZXT - S340 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case | $99.99 @ B&H
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $85.42 @ Amazon
Monitor | LG - 34UM88C-P 34.0" 3440x1440 60Hz Monitor | $697.00 @ Adorama
RGB | ESUMIC® LED Cable Connector Extension Cable Wire 4 Pin Female to Female For SMD 5050 3528 RGB LED Strip Light 30cm Black 10 Pack | $9 @ Amazon
RGB | CableMod WideBeam Magnetic LED Strip RGB - 30cm / 15 LEDs | $18.99 @ Amazon
RGB | CableMod WideBeam Magnetic LED Strip RGB - 30cm / 15 LEDs | $18.99 @ Amazon
RGB | TronicsPros 4 Pin LED Strip Connector RGB Extension Cable LED Splitter for SMD 5050 3528 RGB LED Strip Lights | $5.00 @ Amazon
Cables| CableMod Basic White kit - EVGA (incl. shipping)| $70.00 @ CableMod
| Prices include shipping, taxes and discounts |
| Total | $2814.09
| Generated by Kiwiandapple |
I am not kidding, you can ask anything! Aside from my pin code..
These look like "dumb" led strips (no onboard electronics). You either need to solder the ends or use one of the solderless connectors. These are for making nice corners: https://www.amazon.com/Connector-JACKYLED-Non-waterproof-Splitter-conductor/dp/B011BD2B5Q/ref=pd_sim_86_24?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B011BD2B5Q&pd_rd_r=YBEV9BRYYGQ25YR29T5C&pd_rd_w=NsgMN&pd_rd_wg=gO6Fc&psc=1&refRID=YBEV9BRYYGQ25YR29T5C and these can be used to join strips https://www.amazon.com/Zitrades-10PCS-Connector-Conductor-Jumper/dp/B00977FHG4/ref=pd_sim_86_28?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00977FHG4&pd_rd_r=YBEV9BRYYGQ25YR29T5C&pd_rd_w=NsgMN&pd_rd_wg=gO6Fc&psc=1&refRID=YBEV9BRYYGQ25YR29T5C
The one's you linked should work. I'd highly suggest connecting each monitor's strip in parallel as well to reduce issues with how much current the strips draw and avoid having some of the LEDs dimmer (the ones at the far end of the strip)
Ok so I was thinking of using the LED strip, then use the T-shape connector and the L-shape connector to connect all the strip together. The T-shape connector will be connect with a cord as well like in the diagram I drew. But I’m a noob and I don’t know if this is possible to make, and what kind of cord or wire should I use in this case? Anyone have any idea or guidance here to help me out?
This is the adapter I used. It’ll work for any single color LED strip. You’d need a different type if you’re doing a RGB strip (multi-color strip).
LE 2 Pin Connector Kit, 8mm DC Adapter Cable, Power Connectors for Single Color LED Strip Light, Pack of 2
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0085ZX8EM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_e7i2Cb2ZBD1FG
If you're looking for something different take a look at these low voltage cable lights.
I installed them in my kitchen and they never fail to get compliments.
When things settle down for me too, maybe :) money's tight but eventually if theyre still there when i can, i will.
We also bought the connector clips (so it can bend around corners and stuff), extra wire (for extra length), and connector ends (for the extra wire).
The whole thing is super easy and quick to put up! As a warning, the peel and stick backing isn't good at all, so i would recommend buying stuff to help it stay. We used sticky tack since it doesn't hurt the surface so we can take it off if we need to. We left it on a long time (6 hours) and it barely heated up at all. Just about as warm as a starbucks coffee cup. As long as it's not on all the time it shouldnt heat up at all
You might want this too but they are easy to solder regardless.
I just pick a random manufacturer that has decent rating on Amazon, but this the one I bought: econoLED 12V Flexible SMD 5050 RGB LED Strip Lights, LED Tape, Multi-colors, 300 LEDs, Non-waterproof, Light Strips, Color Changing, Pack of 16.4ft/5m Strips https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LW2NJM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iVSazb46NR2QD
Some right angle connectors if u need it:
10X L shape 4 Pins Connector JACKYLED 10mm Non-waterproof Quick Splitter Right Angle Corner Connector 12V 72W Clip for 5050/3528 SMD RGB 4 conductor LED Strip Lights Strip to Strip (22Pcs Clips) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011BD2B5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BWSazb8PFRMJN
I guess that depends on your soldering skills. If you solder than you can follow this guide. If not then you can get a set of these to connect all the pieces together.
No problem.
I was also looking at an alternative solution from another reddit post which would use the following items:
If this makes sense then it would look something like this?
LED strip --> strip connector --> 10m extension cable (through ceiling) --> strip connector --> LED strip for cabinets on other side of wall
Found a very informative video of the ballast + LED strips + hue bridge: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNfa9X5Sq1Q
That's already $93 + tax so if it makes more sense to just get a refurb hue strip kits and synchronize them to the same room (Kitchen) then I guess I will go with another set of hue strip kits.
The phanteks header is the standard 5050 led header it looks like. Pretty sure the LEDs you want have these, but if not....
You'll need something like this
iCreating 10PCS LED 5050 RGB Strip Light Connector 4 Pin Conductor 10 mm Wide Strip to Controller Jumper Solderless Clamp On Pigtail Adapter for 5050 Color Changing Flexible LED Strip light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074G48LWQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SDtNAbSPZJK9Q
Basically you just connect them to a 12V power supply and a controller. You can cut the strips to whatever lengths you need and wire them in series. This guide has a lot more information. The ones that I used are the brighter 5050 RGB LEDs.
If you don't want to mess with ordering the parts separately you can find kits like this one. Also, if you want to cut strips and not have to mess with soldering them together you can get straight connectors like these or connectors like these for any right angles that you need to make.
Then you would want this
EvZ 4 Color 10m RGB Extension Cable Line for LED Strip RGB 5050 3528 Cord 4pin https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DPQMKBS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_p4-NwbH302Q8D
Soldering was simple for mine, it may be a slight headache for the multiple wire, but will look good. I have about 8 feet of wire along with the 16 feet of lights and there isn't an issue, i believe my power supply is 3A. I think i recall someone said they had 4 of them on a 3A supply without any issues. I would advise a drop of hot glue at the soldered ends to keep the weight of the wire pulling everything down.
The actual extension cables between the led strips are pretty standard https://www.amazon.com/ESUMIC-Cable-Connector-Extension-Female/dp/B00XX41VD0/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1502315577&sr=1-3&keywords=led+extension+cable
Just an example but make sure they the arrow telling you where the 5v is for whatever size you buy.
Here is the BOM:
Got these because they were black PCB, don't like the way it was waterproofed but actually worked pretty well probably more robust than the coated ones.
IKSACE WS2811 1903 DC12V 5M 300LEDs 60LEDs/M Addressable Programmable Dream Color LED Digital Strip Pixel Strings 5050 RGB Flexible Colorful Rope LED Strip 16.4ft Black PCB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZZ7T7X5/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_-iT1DbP3R271X
This was the controller I used (I'm sure you can find them without the LEDs, it's Bluetooth which isn't as common as you might think)
KORJO Dream Color LED Strip Lights, 32.8ft/10M Bluetooth LED Chasing Light with APP, Waterproof 12V 300 LEDs 5050 RGB Color Changing Rope Light Kit, Flexible Led Strip Lighting for Home Kitchen https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L5C8GQM/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_flT1DbHEY6CPC
Handy connectors
HKBAYI 50Pair / 50sets 3 pin JST SM Male Female plug LED Connector Cable For WS2812B WS2812 WS2811 LED Strip Lamp with 15cm Long Wire https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NBSH4CA/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_ooT1DbGNZ4GFD
I also used some nice outdoor rated PSA foam tape to hold everything on along with a few black zip ties just in case. Wired everything and sealed with silicone. Make sure you don't serialize the strips they should be all connected in parallel so they chase in unison.
They are connected to my AUX power output using the standard automotive 12V plug. They come one when my bike does. Which is fine. If I want to turn them off you can do so from the app for the controller.
That's it. Now to start on the custom controller. Anyone connected to the CAN bus on this bike? That would be the easiest way to get speed.
Sucks that I had to, but got tired of fumbling to plug in when on my head, so ordered this, should do the trick without having to mod an expensive piece of kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CWNMB86
Nothing to code, most work the same way. https://smile.amazon.com/econoLED-Flexible-Multi-colors-Non-waterproof-Changing/dp/B006LW2NJM?sa-no-redirect=1
Something like this I am fairly certain will work 505 addressable are pretty common in devices now adays.
You will need the 4 pin connector like this, https://smile.amazon.com/EvZ-10PCS-Connector-Conductor-Jumper/dp/B01CMLLKHG/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1496367228&sr=8-9&keywords=RGB+connectors&sa-no-redirect=1.
Or if you search 5050 12v addressable LEDs im sure you can find cheap options on ebay or amazon.
Edit: /u/HeyItsBlu I see you found some on a comment below. Remember you can always cut them to size too. Just cut across the contacts that connect multiple strips together to get the total size you want.
There are lots of options for this. I personally did my own mod where I used a Corsair Lighting Node Pro and use software to control it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kgMd2CcUkBQ
The 12v Analog RGB strips would be the easiest in terms of controlling as you can buy bulk RGB strips and solder less connectors like these to control your lighting: https://www.amazon.com/iCreating-Connector-Conductor-Controller-Solderless/dp/B074G48LWQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=solderless+rgb+strip&qid=1571675396&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzU1lSR1o3VDk2S0VOJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTEyNzg1M1I1R0NaNVFBUkVRNiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDI4MDU3Mkg1NE82WjVBM1RUTSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
The 5v Addressable is a little more work as there are different standards that companies use for connectors. Though if you are comfortable with a solder iron and crimping connectors, then that is an option: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Dl9yd_Nxqk
Thanks :)
You could write sequences easily enough, and in fact it would be relatively trivial to fire them off spontaneously with simple pushbuttons as input to your microcontroller. When I put that costume together, I wore a little custom switchboard like a watch that had the arduino installed on it along with a series of pushbuttons and rocker switches to turn things on and off.
Syncing to music directly might be tough - certainly doable, but it may just be easier to have buttons which perform preprogrammed actions. There are a lot of ways things could go awry when trying to line up audio with circuits. For professional shows it's better to have an engineer or two (on further viewing, it looks like they had 3 guys manning this in the show) on the sidelines controlling all that stuff, but if it's just you a simpler and more adaptable route might be to program 8 or so actions, wire buttons from the arduino to your fingertips to fire them off, and rely on your own timing and coordination to get things really moving. Just a suggestion to avoid overcomplicating things, and using such a technique also allows you to be a bit more adaptable (say, for example, if you want to use the surrounding music like at a club as opposed to needing your own).
Also /u/Tinkrr2 is right about the voltage requirements varying by brand - make sure you look into that. Finally, if you're looking to make this into a semi-permanent hobby then it helps to have an adjustable power supply handy. A beefy battery, a sizable power supply, a few barrel jacks, some Dupont connectors, and most importantly an adjustable buck converter will take you very far. I wouldn't worry too much about any of this now, but if you decide you like tinkering with electronics (especially LEDs, which have moderate power requirements) that would be a terrific start.
Awesome product, thanks for letting me know it exists.
If you scroll along the "Customers who bought this product also bought" bar on that page you'll find These connectors and they lead on to loads of different options.
Totally could. I personally have used these for inside my case and under my case. They work with my asus strix x370-f gaming mobo that has the 4-pin rgb header
solderless connectors for corners and extensions for gaps that didn’t need lights and where the corners wouldn’t work.
Lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BY7GMEK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Extension connectors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00977FHG4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks.
I'm going with this 12v 4-pin light strip with these splitters and to keep it clean, some extension and right-angle options.
Overall I spent about $126 because I used a lot of material that I already had (baseboard, paint, romex).
Materials Used:
Leftover 7/16" OSB sheathing cut to size
(2) Closetmaid Cubeicals
Existing baseboard
1" x 12" pine board
Shelf hardware
Paint
Painter's Putty
Caulk
Primed Quarter Round
LED light strip
12v Power Supply
(2) LED PCB connectors
Magnetic Door Switch
(2) Old Work Boxes
Romex Cable
Outlet
Outlet Cover
I ordered this LED strip light kit from Amazon:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B016CDCM54/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also ordered these connectors:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00977FHG4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The kit comes with 16' of lights, and you can cut them to the length you need and use the connectors to bind them for working around corners or covering large spaces. Taking into account the space in my marquee that's lost to the speakers, 16' was just enough, but the inverter that comes with the kit can drive more, so you could order an additional strip by itself on the cheap to expand if needed.
Well the 3M arsenal of stickyness does include post it notes so there are varied stickystrenghts. I thought about the corner kinks so I bought corner attachments that keep it flat. Since the back of my TV is so smooth, no matter what happens, they still fall off from the weight of gravity. Velcro doesnt work, the only saving grace is Duct Tape. Not fancy but definitely unseen.
If I'm understanding this correctly, you just need a 4-pin adapter of some sort like this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074G48LWQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524049728&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=led+4+pin+connectors&dpPl=1&dpID=51g6jpIbo%2BL&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CWNMB86/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
My first thought would be to get these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MG9KYCD?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DTOAWZ2?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XFSNKXS?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D7CWSCG?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title
You’ll get 10 DMX channels of RGB control that can support 10ft of LED strip each. Put a few inches of LED in each lantern then connect to the next, so you’d be able to link together about 15-20 lanterns or more on a single channel. Won’t be “individually” controllable, but you’ll have control over the groups of lights that are connected. Do this for each of the 10 channels and you could easily fill a room.
Super interested to hear everyone else’s approach for this
I'll try to remember to take some pictures tonight but here's the basics:
Parts:
So what you're going to do is cut the connector off of the fan. Strip the wires back. Some fans have three or four wires. Mine had three. What you're looking for is the positive and negative wires which are most likely red and black. Strip the insulation on these wires to expose the bare copper. It sometimes helps to expose enough to fold the copper and double it up to make it easier to screw on the connector. Feed the red wire (positive) into the + side of one of the female connectors. Screw it down and do the same for the other side. Now just connect it to the power supply and you're done!
LEDs. Cut them to size, string multiple strands together with some jumpers. I wrapped all my connections with weatherproof electrical tape.
Agreed! 100% I'll be testing THESE after arrival later today.
Yes, you should just make sure that the charger is rated for the current you'll draw. There are plenty of options for using the barrel connector. I keep a bunch of these guys around to power things. What kind of laptop uses a 5V charger?
I don't think there's a buying guide, unfortunately
I'm going to use this Power Supply with this Adapter for this LED String along with this RGB Controller
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CMLLKHG?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title
I got a pack of these which allowed me to have as many strips as I did so it depends on what you plan to do with it.
I did it all myself so that saved money but basically this
1 roll, 2 to be safe. (I got this kit because it was cheaper than buying spools on their own at the time, didnt use the controller from here though you could and save more money. They were on sale at the time for like 15$ or something cheap af)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004T0BM0O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Extra wiring
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XFSNKXS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Bluetooth controller
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZQVWU2O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
connectors to make life easier
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G1BYJQS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
splitters to make life easier
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OMKDUB0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I wired mine up with switches and whatnot which cost a few extra bucks.
But overall should be able to do it sub 100$ easily.
Any reason you didnt just use connectors like this?
So the motherboard supports 4pin rgb (12V). You can get a 4pin splitter to have multiple fans to 1 header. I have 8 connected to 1 header running no problem. You will then download Mystic Light from MSI website and enjoy. Link below..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075FKL6C1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Sounds like a similar situation to mine. I've been using separate seated (in my small computer room) and room-scale (in the lounge, next room) since the beginning. However, I don't use any extra base stations, instead using some [quick release plates] (https://amzn.com/B000JLK5PU), [DC switches] (https://amzn.com/B01CWNMB86), and extra DC adapters. Changing positions is just a matter of turning it off and unlocking at the original position, relocking and turning on at the new position, then going through Steam's room setup. The process is relatively quick, although going back to room-scale takes a little longer (it would be great if Steam added a way to 'save' profiles).
Skip the wood frame and buy 3M sticky backed LED strips.
Also: 10X L shape 4 Pins Connector JACKYLED 10mm Non-waterproof Quick Splitter Right Angle Corner Connector 12V 72W Clip for 3528/5050 SMD RGB 4 conductor LED Strip Lights Strip to Strip (22Pcs Clips) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011BD2B5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_d0t9AbE9153VY
Nice work overall!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011BD2B5Q/ref=pd_aw_sbs_86_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=FDQFPECZ028FXK6RJSE6&dpPl=1&dpID=71bKtJdyONL