Best tubing, pipe & hoses according to redditors
We found 281 Reddit comments discussing the best tubing, pipe & hoses. We ranked the 146 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 281 Reddit comments discussing the best tubing, pipe & hoses. We ranked the 146 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
You can replace your tubing with silicone tubing. I use it in home brewing - it is inert even at high temperatures.
https://www.amazon.com/White-Silicone-Rubber-Tubing-Grade/dp/B003TJ9YQU
Ok, I'm going to go on a bit of a tangent, but I swear I'm headed somewhere.
Here in the US, especially in the South, we have a fast food restaurant called 'Sonic'. Sonic is a drive-in (like what was common in the 50's), where you pull into a stall and order from an intercom. Now, it's widely accepted that Sonic has the best ice. People that love Sonic's ice have their own FB page, and Sonic has even started selling their ice by the bag at many restaurants. The type of ice they sell is pellet ice. (FYI, While searching for Sonic Ice, I came across this at-home icemaker.)
What I'm suggesting is more of a DIY pellet ice. You can get food-grade plastic tubing from Amazon for $9 in the US. Plug one end, fill with water, and freeze. After it's frozen, remove from the fridge, move it around to break up the ice, and dump it out (some air input may be required to force it out). Then enjoy your pellet ice.
Don't buy a kit! They sell you all kinds of shit you won't use when there are better options for similar money.
Get a brewing bucket as if you don't have a bottler then this will make your life so much better.
Get 2 carboys (glass is best but better bottles will work too). Check Craigslist for these...you can get some awesome deals.
Get 1 Refractomoeter instead of a hydrometer because they use WAY less of your must to calculate and they aren't mega fragile like hydrometers are.
You will want an auto siphon
You will want a carboy brush that fits on a cordless drill because cleaning a carboy without one fucking sucks (and for 18 bucks this is a no brainer).
You will need sanitizer. I personally like Iodophor because it's super cheap, it doesn't really foam up and it lasts forever. I bought one of THESE bottles like 2 years ago and it is about half full even though I brew between 50-100 gallons a year.
I always advocate people start with beer bottles rather than wine bottles. The reason for this has less to do with the bottles and more to do with equipment. The Ferrari Bottle Capper is 14 dollars while a good floor corker for wine bottles will set you back 60 bucks. In addition, it's cheaper to bottle in 20 ounce beer bottles with caps rather than in wine bottles with good corks. Use of a double lever corker for wine bottles should be considered a war crime...seriously...unless you're a masochist who loves dumping wine everywhere and having to clean it afterwards...then just avoid them...they are absolutely awful.
If you go the wine bottle route then NEVER use agglomerated or colmated corks (the ones made from tiny pieces of cork glued together) as they fall apart and will leave chunks in your bottles. In addition they don't age well, so you are much more likely to lose your brew to spoilage. I like synthetic Nomacorc but you can also buy very good quality solid natural corks as well.
Good oxygen absorbing bottle caps on the other hand are mega cheap. Again...this isn't about one being better than the other, so you can use either one.
For wine bottles, I REALLY like the ones with screw tops because they make it nice and easy to cap your bottles once opened. But for all of your bottles buy these locally...shipping will double or triple the cost of these vs buying locally. I get them for 15 bucks a case a few miles from my house...they're almost 30 a case on Amazon or close to that from Midwest or from Ohio (shipping is like 11-15 dollars a case.)
For beer bottles...I prefer clear, but they'll be tough to find locally so I often end up with brown ones. Again...buy these locally not online due to shipping costs. Your local brewing supply stores buy these pallets at a time so even Amazon can't compete with the lack of shipping costs.
For my own recommendation I would say do an extract beer can kit. You'll get about 40 bottles of beer out of it.
Almost everything below you can get at your local homebrew shop. In fact, many of these items might be part of a "beer starter kit" etc. I do recommend getting the 5 gallon carboy instead of a kit with pails. You'll thank me later. pails can get messy.
Total $128 by my guestimates, but you do get 2 cases of beer out of it and $113 worth of brew equipment. Hell, in Ontario the two cases of beer can easily be more expensive than $128 lol... Not cheap, but everything here you will use over and over and over again (except of course the sugar and the brew kit)
---------------------------------
The Coopers Can Kit comes with instructions to make your beer, a hopped extract and yeast.
After you make your beer it'll be a few weeks before the fermentation is done (which you'll know by hydrometer readings)
In that time you can start getting your stuff together for bottling and carbonating them.
You'll also need (for bottling) 48 empty clean bottles (cleaned and then sanitized with star-san solution) NON TWIST OFF TYPE
A handheld Beer capper
Bottle caps (box)
I gotta run, but this was fun to type out. If you need any help, glad to help ya.
i got a pair of kegs during AIH's sale as well and i'm also new to kegging.
On your first question, here's what I'm doing:
and of course the two 5 gallon ball lock kegs from AIH.
IMO the best thing to do is just replace them periodically. You can buy the line in bulk and it should only cost a dollar or so per line to replace.
If you do want to clean the existing lines you don't really need any equipment. Just put some cleaning solution in an empty keg, pressurize, and run it through.
What he has is vinyl tubing. High Temp Silicone tubing is what he needs.
http://www.amazon.com/High-Temp-Grade-Silicone-Tubing/dp/B00FXAA0BQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421028067&sr=8-1&keywords=high+temp+silicone+tubing
If you're going to try this make sure to use food grade silicon tubing like this one: http://www.amazon.com/High-Temp-Grade-Silicone-Tubing/dp/B00FXAA0BQ
Ok, I just finished this project today! Get the led fairy lights that use AA batteries (they last longer and are brighter) https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B017N85S6M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and some quantity of 5/16" inner diameter tubing (for aquariums, etc.) https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E6BCXQ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
. Thread lights through tubing (I used picture hanging wire as the "guide" wire), and go a little past the connection to the battery pack. I bought some aquarium tube connectors to seal the ends https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LDFTQI2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 , and then wove it between the spokes and attached with small zip ties. Battery packs affixed to spokes with velcro cable ties, for easy on/off for battery change. With the lights coming in 5 packs on Amazon, I did all 3 wheels (yes, trike) and the rest of the frame for under $30. That will buy you 1 1/2 Wheel Brightz.
I personally use clear Poly tubing from amazon for my barrels. It's a hair larger ID than cpvc, great for stefans and half lengths but a bit too tight for stock darts.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OMJ4YW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The best way I found to get started is to just get a gallon jug carboy, some starsan, some montrachet wine yeast, yeast nutrients, and 100% grape juice from your local grocery store.
The starsan is a concentrate, I put about a capful into a 2 liter bottle, fill it up with water, and keep it under my sink. It's an antiseptic rinse that should splash over everything that's going to touch the juice; airlock, bottle, your hands, the scissors you use, all that stuff. It doesn't even needed to be rinsed, just shake the bottle out and go to town.
Once you've rinsed, put the juice, yeast nutrients, and yeast in the bottle. Put some water in the airlock and put it on top. Put the bottle of juice and yeast in a dark cool spot until you can easily see a flashlight shine through it, about 2 months or so.
While it's doing it's thing collect 5 old wine bottles or get some from a brew supply store. Old liquor bottles work great, just rinse them good and then splash starsan around inside.
Buy a racking cane! This significantly simplifies the process of getting wine out of the jug without sucking up all the dead yeast at the bottom. Run starsan through it at first, filling the starsan cup with water as it gets siphoned out so that the inside is all nice and clean.
Rack that wine out of the jug and into bottles. That's it! Age for six months if you want, but I often just mix in a little fresh grape juice to sweeten it up a bit right there in my cup and go to town right away, hence my inability to age it.
The only regular cost is the juice. I like to get the frozen 100% juice on sale because I'm doing 15 gallon batches these days (because I'm going to outpace my thirst, darn it), I use about 14 of those per 5 gallon carboy and fill the rest up with spring water from the grocery store.
I also use 4 cups of 5 minute boiled raw sugar in each 5 gallon carboy of juice to boost the abv, but this is personal taste. It makes the wine taste pretty hot but it also has a solid kick to it so I don't mind. After I mix it with a bit of fresh grape juice it just tastes like a light sweet wine and I have a very good time with it.
You replaced the beer lines, but with the same internal diameter? I almost made this mistake when hooking up my keezer, using gas line for beer line (mine are both clear). If the diameter is too large it will foam. I use this:
http://www.amazon.com/ATP-Vinyl-Flex-Plastic-Tubing-Length/dp/B00E6BCXQ8
this should up your game a bit: https://www.amazon.com/White-SiliconeTubing-ID-Wall-Length/dp/B003TJ9YQU/ref=sr_1_13?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1467824434&sr=1-13
I believe this is your problem. You need the correct beer line. It should be 3/16 food safe tubing with thick walls. You can get 50ft of it for cheap off amazon. In order for your system to be balanced you need the right resistance. This is roughly 8-12 feet of line per keg. Keep the co2 tank at 8-12 psi (good rule of thumb is 1psi per foot of line). Temperature is still a factor with foam so play with your pressures till you get everything right for your system.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CPMS5MQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_75pnDbYCF1Q5B
You may want to consider silicone tubing, PVC and it's additives can be pretty nasty and I don't think they like heat much.
I've made some slight modifications to this, mostly to make it easier to follow. I've also included steps that should be quite obvious to someone who's done any homebrewing before, but I wish someone had told me when I first started.
I'd link to the original, for the sake of attribution, but the user who posted this deleted their account not long after I wrote everything down.
This will produce a sweet fruit-mead (or melomel). WARNING this will be far more alcoholic than it tastes, and should not be consumed if you've recently taken antibiotics, or suffered gastric distress, as the yeast culture will still be alive, and will happily colonize your intestines if your gut microbiome is too fucked up.
Equipment: Most of this stuff will be a good deal cheaper at your local homebrew store, but I've included amazon links (also to the yeast).
At least 2 (3 is better, for reasons we'll get to) 1-gallon jugs (I don't recommend scaling this up), glass preferred. Add an extra jug for each additional batch. This one includes a drilled stopper and airlock
Drilled stoppers (or carboy bungs) and airlocks, non-drilled rubber stoppers.
An autosiphon and food-safe tubing.
Food-safe sanitizing solution (I recommend StarSan).
An electric kettle with temperature selector is useful, but not needed.
If you want to bottle it rather than just keeping a jug in your fridge:
Empty beer or wine bottles (just save your empties), capping or corking equipment, caps or corks, and a bottling wand.
Ingredients:
2.5 lbs (1130g) honey, clover recommended.
A cup (approximately 250ml) or so of fruit (I recommend blackberries, and I strongly recommend against cherries, other recipes have worked for me, but this yields a very medical flavor with cherries).
1 packet Lalvin EC-1118 yeast (a champagne yeast notable for its hardiness, its ability to out-compete other microorganisms, and its high alcohol tolerance).
Optional: potassium sorbate (to reduce yeast activity when our ferment is done), pectic enzyme (aka pectinase - for aesthetic purposes). Both are also available in bulk.
Process:
Day 1:
Mix sanitizing solution with clean water at specified proportions in one of your jugs, filling the jug most of the way. Stopper it, shake it. Remove stopper, set it down wet-side-up (to keep it sterile), pour the fluid to another jug. There will be foam left behind, this is fine, don't bother to rinse it or anything. At low concentrations this stuff is totally fine to drink, and won't ruin your fermentation or flavor.
Add honey to jug, all of it.
If you have a kettle, and your jug is glass, heat water to around 160F (71 Celsius), pour a volume into your jug roughly equal to the amount of honey present. Fix sterile stopper to jug. Shake until honey and water are thoroughly combined. The heat will make it FAR easier to dissolve the honey. Set aside for an hour or so while it cools. Add clean water 'til mostly full, leaving some room for fruit and headspace.
If you're missing a kettle, or using a plastic jug, this is gonna be a little harder. Fill most of the way with clean water (I recommend using a filter) leaving some room for fruit and headspace. Fix sterile stopper, shake 'til honey and water are thoroughly combined. This will take a while, and you will need to shake VERY vigorously.
At this point, you should have a jug mostly-full of combined honey and water. To this, add fruit (inspecting thoroughly for mold, don't want to add that). Then dump in a single packet of the Lalvin EC-1118 yeast, don't bother rehydrating it first or anything, it'll be fine going straight in. Add pectic enzyme if you have it (this does nothing to the flavor, it just makes the end product less cloudy). Stopper it up, shake it again. This jug now contains your "must" (pre-ferment mead).
Pour some sterilizing fluid in a bowl, put a carboy bung/drilled stopper in the bowl, with an airlock. Ensure full immersion. Let sit for a minute. Replace stopper with your bung/drilled stopper, affix airlock. Fill airlock with clean water, sanitizing fluid, or vodka. Rinse the stopper, fix it to your jug of sanitizing fluid.
Place must-jug in a dark place, I recommend a cabinet or closet.
Days 2-7:
Retrieve jug, give it a little jostle. Nothing so vigorous as to get your mead into the airlock, but enough to upset it. This is to release CO2 buildup, and to keep any part of the fruit from drying out. The foaming from the CO2 release may be very vigorous. Do this over a towel for your first batch. If the foam gets into your airlock, clean your airlock and reaffix it. Perform this jostling procedure at least once per day, more is better.
Day 8:
Final jostling, I recommend doing this in the morning.
Day 9:
let it sit, we want the sediment to settle.
Day 10: Time to get it off the sediment
Shake sterilizing fluid jug. Affix tubing to siphon. Put the siphon in the sterilizing fluid, shake the jug a little just to get the whole siphon wet. Siphon fluid into either a third container or a large bowl. This is all to sterilize both the inside and outside of your siphoning system.
Remove siphon from jug. Give it a couple pumps to empty it of any remaining fluid. Place siphon in your mead jug, leaving the end of the tubing in sterilizing fluid while you do this.
Take the jug that you just siphoned the sterilizing fluid from. Dump what fluid remains in it. Place the end of the tubing in this jug, then siphon the mead into it. Make no attempt to get the last bit of mead into your fresh container, it's mostly dead yeast and decomposing fruit.
Add potassium sorbate if you have it, stopper the jug, place it in your fridge.
Clean the jug you started in. Clean your siphon and tubing.
Day 11:
Let it sit
Day 12 or later: time to transfer again, or bottle it.
If you no longer have a jug full of sterilizing fluid, make one.
Repeat the earlier steps to sterilize the siphoning system, with a bottling wand attached to the end of the tubing if you want to bottle.
Sterilize your bottles or a clean jug, either with fluid or heat.
Siphon mead either into your bottles or jug. Stopper/cap/cork when done.
Put your jug/bottles in the fridge.
The yeast culture is still alive, and will continue to ferment. The fridge, and optional potassium sorbate, will merely slow this down. I recommend drinking any bottles within two months, to avoid a risk of bursting bottles. The mead should already be tasty at this point, but usually tastes much better after a couple more weeks.
EDIT: Fixed the formatting up a bit.
If it's a 1 gallon batch get the mini siphon:
https://www.amazon.com/Fermtech-Mini-Auto-Siphon-3-8-inch/dp/B0064ODL1G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498080342&sr=8-2&keywords=brew+siphon
if its 3-6 gallons get the big one:
https://www.amazon.com/Regular-Auto-Siphon-feet-Tubing/dp/B00AYHS7ZY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498080342&sr=8-1&keywords=brew+siphon
They all work fine.
I can only see flair in comments as I am on mobile. I was going to say you can pickup a new whip from vapexhal. I found this one on amazon that may also be worth checking out.
https://www.amazon.com/White-Silicone-Rubber-Tubing-Grade/dp/B003TJ9YQU
It sounds like it’s the beverage line. I’ve been skeptical of any pvc tubing that’s not from a reputable manufacturer (like Bevlex 200 by Kuriyama) after purchasing this product which was certainly expediting oxidation—in the lines, and also in the keg. I had what I think is a similar issue to yours when I had carbonated water through the same beverage tubing I linked.
Maybe someone has some further insight. I might try purchasing some Bevlex 200 and try again, or just switch to a different non-PVC high quality tubing.
especially if you use this stuff
Hey, just a friendly heads up you may wanna switch to food grade silicon tubing instead of vinyl (as that appears to me). I had once used a vinyl tubing until I read that when heated it releases chemicals that when inhaled can be extremely detrimental to the lungs over time. Not the worst thing once in a while I'm sure, but the food grade tubing will accomplish the same task as other tubes without the negative side effects. It's also a bit more flexible so it's easier to maneuver after a few rips! Looks AMAZING otherwise! Be safe and enjoy (:
Edit: here's the link to the one I used! It also fits around the glass stem of a MLFB perfectly so you can "Vong" (vape/bong!) if you have one (: sorry for the long link, I'm on mobile: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FOWGG2/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
read my other reply re: health risks and why I'd personally rather not risk it.
this is the tubing I use.
A few questions about beer line. I got a great deal on a chest frezer and am building a keezer. I have almost all the parts picked out but need some help with beer line. I was planing on just using this tubing but am now concerned about vinyl flavors in my beer. Honestly the beer will most likely sit in the line for around 48 hours between pours. The two other things I am considering are Accuflex Bev-Seal Ultra or Ultra Barrier Silver. I am concerned that I with Accuflex Bev-Seal Ultra I will need to extend the lines to much in order to reduce foam. I would really like some insight on the problem I have spent 2 days debating this in my head and would really just like to order some parts so I can enjoy some beer.
This video does a good job illustrating the basics.
The key is getting the components to fit as tightly as possible so you don't need to use glue. The 1/8" ID airline tubing seems to fit most Ety models well.. Then pick your favorite earplug material for softness and NR rating.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PSX6ZV2?psc=1
The key is getting a round hole of the correct size in the foam earplug, getting the earplug cut to length properly, and fitting the whole thing over the sound canal of your Ety drivers. There's no fancy tool required, you can use anything from a sharpened metal tube to a soda straw or coffee stirrer. The key is to get a properly centered hole that grips the airline tubing and will fit comfortably in your ear.
Oh man, does that mean these will fit as well?
https://www.amazon.com/Chem-Si-Solo-Glass-Curved-Drying/dp/B01LYEBF7K/ref=sr_1_4?m=A2YWUIZGUW9D1Y&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1524575058&sr=1-4
https://www.amazon.com/Chem-Si-Solo-Glass-Drying-Straight/dp/B01M97O121/ref=sr_1_6?m=A2YWUIZGUW9D1Y&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1524575058&sr=1-6
I'd avoid using it until you have silicone. Vinyl isn't rated for that temp. I have the Mash and Boil, only recirculated twice. Otherwise, the beer I produce on it, with a random stir here or there in the mash is perfectly fine. Good prices on tubing can be found on Amazon.
I LOVE my Mash & Boil, especially after I upgraded it. Here are the things I bought for it to do my upgrade. It’s a good amount of money up front but worth it.
CHUGGER PUMP CPSS-CI-1 Stainless Steel 115 Volt Center Home Brewing System Beer Pump, 55” Cord WITH Plug, Inlet 3/4” x Outlet 1/2” MPT, ETL-Certified, USFDA Food Compliant Materials https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9HERFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vECLBbD3PTY36
HFS(R) Homebrew Beer Wort Chiller... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y41HCFP?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
White SiliconeTubing, 1/2"ID, 3/4"OD, 1/8"Wall, 10' Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FMWU38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VECLBb3CM7H5Q
MRbrew Quick Disconnect 304 Stainless... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074TCQF6Q?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
CONCORD 304 Stainless Steel Quick... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079J5X3XD?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Anderson Metals Brass Garden Hose... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006PKMU7U?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
LOKMAN Hose Clamp, 20 Pack Stainless Steel Adjustable 13-19mm Range Worm Gear Hose Clamp, Water Pipe Clamp for for Plumbing, Automotive and Mechanical Applications https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077R2PNVT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yHCLBbB7TH7W8
Dernord Full Port Ball Valve Stainless Steel 304 Heavy Duty for Water, Oil, and Gas with Blue Locking Handles (1/2" NPT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076D7WM9D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wKCLBbEH1QPR0
HomeBrewStuff Stainless Steel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UI995XG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I don't ferment in a corny keg, but my brews do end up in one. Here's my process:
If you don't have a kegerator, you can still do most of this process, but I would shy away from primary fermentation in a corny keg because of the yeast sediment that can build up in the various crevices in the corny keg (dip tube, poppet valves, etc.). Aside from that, the speed of 1F is partially dependent on the exposed surface area (where the pellicle forms) - a narrower opening like that of a corny keg makes for a slower 1F.
If it's the stock tube (which it probably is if you haven't replaced it) then its vinyl. Vinyl will degrade in ISO. Order some silicone tubing as its alcohol safe and more flexible. I used this when I had an EQ. You want 5/16" interior 7/16" outer. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DYAFIU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Lb4-yb3RTJ243
Never heard of it. But here's the parts to do that.
Carbonation cap with fittings.
Mini CO2 regulator with adapter
Co2 Tank
Tubing
Hose clamps.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E62TCC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wd3RDb7MVN2D9
I use it as a straw on a regular basis, it's completely poitionable, and it's not hard to clean.
3/8" i.d. 1/2" o.d.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DYAFIRI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_LWTVDbGWVJXF8
I have 5/16" OD tubing in my keezer. Never had a problem with kinking. Once the tubing gets cold it is pretty stiff anyways. (although the 5/16" OD line is more flexible than the 7/16" lines I have, which is actually nice).
My personal preference for beer line is to buy it cheap and replace it often. Not sure what you ordered but this 3/16" x 5/16" beer line is what I use. When you buy it in 100 ft lengths it is extremely cheap... costs me about 70 cents to replace a beer line, which I do a couple times a year. So much easier than trying to do a thorough clean on a line that has had a sour or very dark beer in it. I flush with a little BLC and Star San between kegs but if it looks at all questionable I just replace the line.
> f-Bomb Micro Bubbler Tube
I've tried both the d020-d and a chinese copy of the f-bomb. Similar to this one: http://www.dhgate.com/store/product/pinnacle-pro-glass-smoking-water-pipe-vaporblunt/184494946.html combined with a 14mm gong adapter.
The pinacle bubbler is nice and portable and does a good job of smoothing out the vapor. However I bought some
Silicone tubing to use as a whip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FOWGGW/ref=biss_dp_t_asn and I actually prefer that, less cleaning also and no need to buy a GONG.
The do20-d is way better for home use with the arizer. It has a very simple design that is very functional.
I'm pretty sure I got 10 feet from here when I made mine, but searching amazon for "food safe silicone tubing" will give you plenty of options. My "orbiter" was functional and cheap--I had the mason jar lying around already. I've used the tubing for 2 jar-bubblers and some whips now, and it works just fine! I don't have some horrible silicone inhalation disease, at least.
After using the rubber bands and e-cig mouthpiece.. I realized I had forgotten I had 10ft of silicone tubing I bought for my SSV stashed away in the closet...
I cut off a 4inch piece and.... PERFECT FIT!
Silicone Tubing - 10 Foot Piece (High Temp Hose - 500F) (3/8" I.D. x 1/2" O.D. x 10 Foot) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DYAFIRI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_UXZjnXPKcwoeT
Angled clearomizer, just the tip, or try to fit this on somehow and leave the pv where ever.
This is safe up to 500 degrees. It'll work perfectly for vaping.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TJ9YQU/ref=biss_dp_sa2
I believe you want to select a 5/16" inner diameter.
I much prefer white silicone tubing over the stock vinyl-silicone tubes in most vapes. It will get dirtier quicker, can kink, and is more expensive. But its more flexible and more inert (no break in smell+taste and you can soak it in iso to get all of the honey oil off).
This is the Amazon link for the sized used by the DaBuddha
https://www.amazon.com/High-Temp-Grade-Silicone-Tubing/dp/B00FXAA0BQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1527258958&sr=8-2&keywords=high+temp+silicone+tubing+food+grade
something like this is what it use.
Pack of 10 Glass Tubing, 12" Long, Borosilicate Glass, Mixed Size
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017ALRJJQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.26.Ab2HMMR53
Length: 12"
Outer diameter: 5mm, 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm.
Inner diameter: 3mm, 4mm, 6mm, 8mm, 10mm.
It’s available via Prime so order now and it’d be here by Monday. Doesn’t appear to have one day or quicker options so likely coming from an out of town fulfillment center.
Good luck!
I AM NOT AN EXPERT MANY PEOPLE KNOW FAR MORE THEN I DO, MAYBE THEY WILL INTERJECT IF I AM WRONG
Alright, let me guide you away from the starter kit. It has helped me know what I'm doing, and develop my process, thinking about and acquiring the pieces I would need. Let's say to start off with you just are busting to brew! Can't contain it anymore!
Start off with these three things
This Pot
This Cooker
-and I know it's not prime shipping but one of these
Plastic Carboys for $25.53 CDN with airlock and stopper
alright so baring the cost of shipping from AiH, plus a propane tank, siphon/tubing, and sanitizer. your looking at a cool $149.25 CDN for a bare bones basic kit for extract brewing.
Now you get a little more fancy, and throw in
This Auto Siphon
this brew in a bag
and this thermometer
and you right around $210 CDN minus a big ass spoon and bottling bucket that would be all you need to do all grain brewing from a bare bones stand point (ok baring ingredients also) but I think you could get off cheaper.. or at least better gear for the same money. especially since the kit you picked out doesn't even have a propane burner or pot this is a hell of a steal. You could go all out, buying a mini fridge and temperature controller for fermentation, an immersion chiller so your not icing down your beer post boil in a bathtub, custom mash paddles, etc.
What I got mad about when I started brewing was how much people were charging for what amounted too a couple of buckets, airlocks, benchcappers, and some "literature". When if you pieced it out it was more like price gauging because I did't know what I was doing.
Either way you go about it, welcome to paradise! Just wait till everyone starts rolling their eyes, when you bring up beer so you seek out friends that brew and you all start your big group beer tastings, I ♥ my beer buddies.
TL;DR : Here's an arguably better (and more utilized) "starter kits" of sorts for a basic bare bones set up. From a newly all grain brewer in a college apt
I use this with sleeving for a hookah-like vapor-bong experience, very flexible and works well. You can probably find 'medical grade' or something of the sort in the same size if that is something you care about but this type of tubing is used in drink dispensers and whatnot and is safe to 500f so I figure they are safe enough for vaporizer use.
Its a ghetto setup :D I use silicone tubing which mounts on to the easy valve and use a 18mm male at the other end. I use a bong without any percolators since I'm afraid that any back pressure on the pump of the Volcano might damage it. I'll try and post a photo of the setup
This is the tubing I use, its the same size as the set on the Plenty
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FOWGGW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hey! I’ve got the same vape and I was just about to clean it. Thankfully I read your post first! I’m also curious about how to clean the whip. I do know that someone told me that they sell that type of piping at Home Depot for SUPER cheap. Maybe cut it up to scrape in smaller pieces and buy a new long piece? Arizer sells a 9ft one too. Good luck!
Edit: here’s the link to some on amazon. I’d read reviews but someone used it with the exact same vape in the pics! link here
bev line: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CPMS5MQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
this is the first time they've been used, so they've only had water pushed through them.
With the first keg that I tossed, the entire keg stunk when I opened it. To me, this ruled out the lines contaminating the water. This second one smelled fine when I lidded it, so I gassed it up and instantly drew some out just to fully flush the line, and it stunk. I then ran two full pitchers through it, and they both stunk as well. Switched lines, pulled half a glass, still stunk. Re-opened the keg, no smell/taste in a ladle full of it.
Pressure gauge:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006VE306A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cloche:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0797GVSXJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Silicone:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C4YQ4TU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Vacuum Pump:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5-CFM-Rotary-Vane-Vacuum-Pump-1-4HP-HVAC-R134a-Air-Refrigerant-Conditioning/131845616776?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Vinyl-flex tubing:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E6BCV0G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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I found polycarbonate tubing to work well for Men Gun darts, and the 6MILES darts are of similar shape. The tubing has a .509 inch diameter bore.
This is just a little more and a lot better suited.
Honestly, if you get a whip adapter for your bong, you can attach a silicone tube to it and just attach the other end to the QQ. I got mine insanely cheap from dhgate right here, or you can get them off of multiple other websites by searching "whip adapter". A 3/8" inner 1/2" outer diameter tube will work perfect for the whip attachment end(this is the one I bought), but might be a little too big and cover the intake hole of the QQ, I'll check when I get home and update this post.
There's also the option of using a hydrotube on top of the QQ like Matt has done in a video, but you would need a silicone attachment to make it fit right.
Edit: looks like that 3/8” inner diameter tuning is literally the PERFECT SIZE for the mouthpiece, you don't even need to hold it on there, amazing.
> I sort of envision myself as the caterpillar from Alice in Wonderland when I vape with this and it just doesn't have that reach required. I should get a longer tube.
Do what I did and get a silicone tube, it comes in a 10 ft length and you can cut it to whatever length you like. Silicone also gives less plastic taste than the default vinyl in my opinion.
Pretty good prices here on Amazon It is slightly thinner than the tubing I got from HBS, but it is still very good. Plenty of sizes, too.
You can find 100' for about $12 delivered on Amazon Prime. Sometimes < $10 if you're watching. For example. I would buy 100' for 12 cents/ft so you save money now and have enough to replace your lines later.
This works pretty well.
I usually get 25' of the 1/4" Inside Diameter, and cut to size.
Ninja edit: got my numbers all wrong. This is the one I use. Takes some work to get it on to the glass tube with the ridges, but once it's on there. it'll stay for a while.
If you feel it's the mouthpiece itself (doubtful, but whatever) replace it entirely with a length of 5/16" OD vinyl tubing. The tubing fits perfectly so it won't fall out on its own, and if you replace the mouthpiece screen with the ELB top screen the tube slips perfectly right down into the screen.
I did this on mine because I found the end of the mouthpiece getting too hot. The tubing solves that problem and makes it more convenient to hold as well since you don't have to hold the whole thing up to your face.
Personally though I find it hard to believe the mouthpiece itself is the problem. It has a huge air path running through and unless you've got an armadillo stuck in there I find it much more likely it's the screen.
This is the 3/8" copper wort chiller that I have.
.
This is the tubing which I bought separately and have been using until now.
.
This is the tubing I'm considering purchasing.
ZAOJIAO Home Brewing and Winemaking Silicone Tubing, 10mm(3/8 inch) ID x 14mm OD, 10 ft, High Temp Food Grade Tube, Flexible Hose Pipe with Stainless Worm Gear Hose Clamps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SPBFGTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ARKsDb5TXHD1B
http://www.amazon.com/White-SiliconeTubing-ID-Wall-Length/dp/B003TJ9YQU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1395953509&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=silicone+tubing+5%2F16+inner+diameter
Haven't had any hands on experience but this might work. Is suppose to have an interior diameter of 1/2" instead of the 15/32" that the cpvc seems to have.
I wouldn't recommend elites for this though, foam is just too squishy.
A quick google: https://www.amazon.com/White-Silicone-Rubber-Tubing-Grade/dp/B003TJ9YQU
I have read somewhere else on this board that, as long as it is food grade, it is safe to use.
You'll have to check yourself if this tube seals with your glass. I don't have a DBV, so I can't check it for you.
Why don't they make a.. OH SNAP HERE WE GO!
Drink ALL the things!!!
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?sku=54036&amp;catid=799
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http://www.amazon.com/White-SiliconeTubing-ID-Wall-Length/dp/B000FOWGGW/ref%3Dsr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1295051729&amp;sr=8-1
When moving kombucha from its fermenting vessel into bottles for consumption, I used to pour it through a funnel straight from the jar, but this really stirs everything up and all of that stuff at the bottom ends up in the bottles. You can run it through a strainer if you want some of the larger particles out, but I bought an autosiphon on Amazon and use this to move kombucha around while leaving the gunk behind.
It has really improved the clarity of the bottles I produce and I think the people I give them to appreciate it, because they seem to be afraid of the stuff that floats around or accumulates on the bottom.
https://www.amazon.com/ATP-Vinyl-Flex-Plastic-Tubing-Length/dp/B00E6BCXQ8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523453164&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=100ft+of+food+grade+pvc&amp;dpID=41q-6Dv4C5L&amp;preST=_SX342_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
I use this tubing for my draft line tho. it is more than likely smaller then your tubing.
Ah thanks!
I was considering getting this thing in the future, but it sounds like that spring filler may be better.
Chem-Si Solo Glass Tube Stem Curved Bent Air Drying Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYEBF7K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QHX5ybYZ4XDYF
I'm looking to purchase the parts for a 2 tap sankey kegerator and wanted some feedback on before I go ahead and order. everything is through amazon because I have a large amazon gift card.
I already have 2 intertap flow control faucets
coupler-kegco KTS97D-W x2
beer line assembly x2
10 feet of gas line
20# luxfer co2 tank
taprite dual regulator
intertap shanks x2
I'm hoping to pick up a used chest freezer on craigslist. Anything I'm missing? Anything I should change?
Has anyone used this specific beer line? The silicone thin-walled line I got back fired on me because it's constantly breaking or leaking, and I'm ready to move on from it - I just don't want to waste more money on line that won't work.
It's not 250ml but I have one of these. Here is a 150ml from another vendor.
Obviously way more than you need, but here's 10' 1/4ID 3/8 OD for $9.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FOWGG2/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
I'd recommend either of these -
https://www.amazon.ca/Mityvac-MVA6851-Fluid-Extractor/dp/B00MPQ8RBG
https://www.amazon.ca/Yobett-Large-Plastic-Syringe-tubing/dp/B00J26U3R8/
This might be a better investment. I use this for my 2F and it works great. You may also want to get a Air lock and a siphon as well.
Vinyl Tubing - 10 feet 5/16 ID - 7/16 OD (Food Grade) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000E62TCC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_G7d6BbHPD31ZP
Apologies everyone, it is 1.5 ft!
This is what I'm using for line:
ATP Vinyl-Flex PVC Food Grade Plastic Tubing, Clear, 3/16" ID x 5/16" OD, 100 feet Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E6BCXQ8/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_k8sXCbX7X23X0
It's been kegged for about a 3 and a half weeks, for the first three days I had it at about 35psi and shook the keg every once in awhile.
Any thoughts?
Also, I used
https://www.kegerators.com/beer-line-calculator/&amp;ved=2ahUKEwjN6efthYziAhVNVK0KHS3IA3YQFjAAegQIBBAB&amp;usg=AOvVaw1jEPO-k0HSm64SfkmIaLPF&amp;cshid=1557322369643
to calculate the length
I use this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FOWGGW?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
It is solid, but it is pretty squishy... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FMWU38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-2bUBbFW5QAHV
That is a 3/8" ID hose on a 5/16" barb.
Edit: Actually I'm not confident if that is the 5/16" or the 1/4" barb. I swap out the gas and liquid locks all the time and I haven't paid attention to which barb is in there.
3/16
This is what I bought for beer lines. It takes about 8 feet for proper flow rate. I've heard of people getting off flavors because they used the vinyl hose at high heat.
I do have some old rubber tubing on the 'out' end of the chiller, so maybe I'll clamp some of this on it to avoid a funky rubber taste.
I'm fairly certain my water is chlorine free, but wouldn't boiling remove the chlorine?
Thanks!
5/16" I.D. x 7/16" O.D. Silicone... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DYAFIU0
Smugthy,
Currently I do not have any supplies. I plan to order them within the next couple of days.
Here is a few links of what i plan to order.
I'll add you to the list!
Thanks!
Edit: Also im looking into getting a labeler, but no guarantee.
TLDR: The "Full kit" looks like it has the basics. As others have said, you might want a food-grade plastic bucket for primary fermentation, and you'll need bottles/containers to store the end product in.
If it were a "complete" kit I'd probably put one together which included One step sanitizer to sanitize equipment,a plastic fermentation bucket, and an auto-syphon to make racking (i.e., transferring the liquid from container to container) easier.
If it's something you're interested in pursuing further, there's plenty more you could consider picking up. A bottle filler for the auto syphon, a filtration kit to help clarify wine/mead, fining products, you might want to look into picking up more things like yeast energizer and yeast nutrient (which it sounds like this kit comes with some) and sulfate/sorbate (to stabilize the mead before back-sweetening) etc.
There are lots of recipes and lots of help available, so read up and feel free to ask questions and have a lot of fun experimenting and trying new things :)
Sure! I got into it pretty heavy with a grand or two in brewing equipment at one point. A seltzer kit is pretty basic because you don't have to boil or "make" anything, but the gear will still nickel and dime you to death:
The rest of the cost is going to be in refrigeration and faucets, if you want to go that route. You can also get party faucets like you see on commercial rentable taps which do just fine but a nice chrome faucet looks and works better if you have the right setup.
Assuming you drink ~3 cases La Croix a week at $3/case (12 pack) that would end up around $36-40/month which would take 12-14 months to even out if you end up spending $500 or so on the entire setup, but that's retail and that's assuming your La Croix is only $3. We can only find it around here for $5 :/ Check Craigslist frequently and you'll find deals from people like me who need to get rid of their equipment en masse. Cost of the seltzer is almost negligible if you do plain fizzy water. If you do citrus I think I used ~20oz for 5 gal of my last batch which was 15-20 lemons/limes. A 5 gallon batch equals out to around 50 12oz drinks so the cost of 4+ cases of fizzy water is cut down to the cost of 20 lemons or $5-10.
tl;dr- initial cost is high but it will pay for itself in a year or less and think of all the cans that won't get dumped back into the world.
Edit: If you can find a system like this you'll be golden. It has all the parts I just listed including a nice chrome faucet and tower. All you'd need to do is pick up a used keg and the proper connectors which could easily be found for <$75.
You could try a racking cane
the answer is all about the type of tubing and metal. I cant give advice on metals but i did have a very similar problem with my vape getting too hot for its plastic tubing. I fixed it by getting high grade silicon tubing, which you can get on amazon for like $1/ft.
http://www.amazon.com/White-SiliconeTubing-ID-Wall-Length/dp/B003TJ9YQU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1342768208&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=high+temp+silicon+tubing
the general rule of thumb is glass, stone, or wood IMO. (you can also use a hallowed out coconut if you can engineer that, just an idea) or even better, a glass soda bottle (preferably w/o lead)
I had similar problems with my cage. I got a jar of InstaMorph and made a little cover for the back of the bar. Works perfectly. I also used the slightly bigger ring and threaded it through a piece of Food Grade Vinyl Tubing which both reduces the diameter, but more importantly, makes it non-skin, without being to grippy. If that makes sense.
I am building a keezer. New to kegging. need some help with what gas and liquid lines I need. I bought a 10# CO2 tank, dual body regulator, and a 3 way gas manifold. My plan is to have a high pressure line out of the regulator for a seltzer water keg and also to force carb. then one line to the 3 way manifold for the 3 other taps at serving pressure.
I'm not sure what type of hose I need for each application, length for beer lines/ seltzer water line etc. Any help is much appreciated.
Edit: what about this for beer line? found on HBF... reviews look good. Is the thin wall a concern?
https://www.amazon.com/ATP-Vinyl-Flex-Plastic-Tubing-Length/dp/B00E6BCXQ8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Yes! That's the one that i have, and i love it.
Is it expensive? Yes.
Are there better alternatives? Probably.
But i absolutely love mine, it is a bit of a beast to disassemble and sanitize every time, but its not overbearing. I just got tired of loosing so much when i racked, and now i barely loose any mead from primary to secondary.
p.s. get these attachments. that way you can easily just let it siphon on its own.
1 & 2
No problem. These are them. http://www.amazon.com/White-Silicone-Rubber-Tubing-Grade/dp/B003TJ9YQU. The tube really doesn't get hot at all so it's not much to worry about. They are food grade. I get 5/16 inner diameter and 1/2 outer. I was a little off about the price though. It's about $2/ft
1-Get yourself a grinder, got one? Go to 2
2- Grind a quantity of your stash (drier is always better), ground? Go to 3
3- Turn it on,I prefer 165°C for an energetic buzz, 200°C for a body high (results may vary)
4- Using the whip? Go to 5. Bagging it? Go to 8
5- Elbow pack that bad boy. Google elbow packing extreme Q or https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=07mIhuyDdTY&amp;feature=youtube_gdata_player go to 5
6- Place elbow on cyclone bowl, let it heat for 2 minutes
7- Two deep breaths, one slow DEEP pull, hold it in for 5-10 sec
8- Fill your cyclone bowl loosely, no higher than the bottom of the black heat guard on the bowl
9- Assemble cyclone bowl + elbow + bag
10- Let it heat up for 5 minutes
11- Turn fan on 2. You should be able to see your hand through the bag's vapors. Thick vapors? Fan on 3, Thin vapors? Fan on 1
12- enjoy
P.S. You should look into changing your plastic tubes for this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FOWGG2/ref=biss_dp_t_asn or something alike (I did and it is worth it). Non-toxic, heat resistant and can be cleaned with iso-alcool
P.P.S Also look into purchasing a straight glass reducer (standard 14.4mm labware reducer I think) instead of the elbow, reduced restriction = easier draw and faster bag fill
I'd like to do 5 gallon batches. I don't think the quantity from the Mr Beer keg is worth it.
How's this look? Total is around $80.
Fermentation bucket
Bung/airlock
Stock pot
Autosiphon
Star San or Idophor (What's the difference?)
Is there any advantage to having a carboy as well? How long would I leave the beer in the fermentation bucket?
So if I wanted to do sours, I'd basically have to get 2 of everything?
Edit - actually, wouldn't this kit be about the same, but with an extra bucket but no stock pot?
Edit 2 - another pot, 36qt is good price, leaving this here so I can find it again.
Eek, those vinyl hoses on the HLT and mash tun!
Edit: This is worth the 16 bucks.
Without a proper airlock, the brewing vessel is either going to build up pressure and pop, or it's going to let in all sorts of things from the air, and would be about as safe as any attempt to drink grape juice that's been sitting out on the counter for a few weeks.
It's possible to brew this way, but it's almost guaranteed to end up poorly. There's a very high chance of it going bad, that is, of growing mold or other unwanted microbiotic visitors. You'll probably be able to see this happen.
Even if it doesn't work, the end result will most likely be one of the nastiest forms of wine you've ever had. It's not quite prison hooch, but it'll be close.
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If you and your friends really want to try and get into brewing on the cheap, my suggestion is to start with an airlock and bung like these, find a gallon of apple juice or apple cider at the grocery store in a glass bottle with no preservatives (check the label), and drop in 1/4 of a packet of a brewing yeast like this one. It's a very beginner friendly (and kinda harsh) yeast that will survive mistreatment and bad conditions no problem. You put the yeast in the apple juice, you put a little water in the airlock, you put the airlock on the jug, and wait a month. You'll want to get a food safe hose to siphon out the brew when it's done, and you'll need bottles to age it in (the stuff will taste bad at first but give it 5-8 months and you'll have somethign wonderful). When the brew finishes that first month, fill up the bottles and seal them, then keep them somewhere cool for 5-8 months. Note: you'll need clean glass bottles, and you'll want to sanitize them or else any bugs in there will make the brew go bad while it ages. I like swing top bottles, they don't require a capper machine or a supply of caps.
Total cost to brew up a simple tasty cider, including all supplies:
Coming out to less than 50$ to get started, and most of that you won't have to buy again for later brews. If you find a local homebrewing shop you might be able to get these things cheaper... or not. At least you should be able to find them in single packs instead of amazon's bulk sets.
Your lines are too short. Even with your 4mm line, 1.5 meters isn't nearly enough. Try 3.35m (11ft) of 4.8mm (3/16") ID at 12 PSI for your average keezer. Here's a cheap option.
You don't want to drop your pressure as your beer will slowly lose carbonation.
this works well for me. fits over my herc and nibbler xl mouthpieces without anything extra. also fits over my 10mm male joint on my little rig without anything extra.
Hey sorry I didn't answer for so long. I got mine here. Internal diameter must be 1/4 inch to accommodate the stem. I went with an overall diameter of 3/8 inch. The skinnier stuff is a little cheaper I think but you don't want it to be too skinny or else it'll fold in on itself.
The tubes are all silicone. It's rather expensive, but it's rated to 260°C (500°F)
I got this one but for that type of fitting, you'd want 1/2" ID probably (I had to buy larger tubing locally because that particular one was a little too thin).
I have the EVO too, and I have a whip. Love it!
As a suggestion, the official whip is hella expensive. You can build your own really easily and maybe ch cheaper.
Tubing
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FOWGGW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Then grab a male and female (probably 18mm, 14 if you need it) from Oregon Glass Blower
http://www.oregonglassblower.com/VAPORIZER-ADAPTERS_c5.htm
Done!
I bought mine and love it.
EDIT: I actually just went and looked at vapeXhales site. Their prices have come down since I looked last time.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FXAA0BQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You only need about an inch of it, but I find all kinds of fun uses for the extra.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/7192000
https://www.fasttech.com/products/3901308
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DYAFIU0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Below are most of parts that are needed for the kettle and electronics controller. I don't think I forgot anything. You would obviously need to be a little handy and have some tools like files, a drill, etc.
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Let me know if you have any other questions!
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Item| Count | Cost | Link
---|---|----|----
Kettle - SS Brewtech 15 gal|1|$239.00|https://www.homebrewsupply.com/ss-brewtech-15-gallon-stainless-steel-kettle.html
Weldless 1.5" TC|1|$24.00|https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=TC15WLF
Hole saw for 1.5" weldless TC|1|$19.00|https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=holesaw40
Pump|1|$94.99|https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=Mark2SS
Tri-Clamp Fitting|1|$7.48|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073J5MHRP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
1/2" bulkhead|1|$8.50|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IJI0TH4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
1/2" Npt ball valve for pump|1|$12.99|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0734QDGZW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s04?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
1/2" ID silocne tubing|1|$19.61|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074Q6QF9S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Spray Wort Aerator|1|$6.66|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ODSS5J8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
||||
Electronics|||
10x8x6 Wall Mount Box w/ 40A heatsink|1|$75.55|https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=34&amp;products_id=616
RTD probe|1|$64.95|https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=20_15&amp;products_id=767
High Amp Main Switch|1|$12.00|https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=69_32&amp;products_id=586
120v 15A Socket|2|$1.95|https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=34&amp;products_id=274
120v 10A Rocker Switch|2|$1.80|https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=69_32&amp;products_id=435
Fuse holder (pack of 5)|1|$2.99|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQWXW9S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Nema L6-30 socket 30A 240V|1|$12.39|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002NAT9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s04?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Nema L14-30 Extension cord for main power|1|$56.00|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072F8P2SN/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Nema L6-30 Power cord for Element|1|$29.95|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07935M281/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
240v 5500W heating element|1|$60.00|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075KCJX8W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Inkbird PID temp Controller|1|$23.99|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LQ8TPDC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
When I moved, I dissasembled everythiing for shipping and cleaned them in the process. My lines are a bit old, but I wash/rinse/sanitize everything before kegging. I actually just ordered this a few weeks ago and have been meaning to put it on. Maybe I'll go ahead and do that and see if that fix's my problem. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E6BCXQ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I've got 9' of beer line currently on 2 of 3 of my taps. 5' on the other one which i generally use for stouts and other low carb beers. How much extra line are you thinking? 12'?
Yeah, I suppose I read that incorrectly. I thought he was advocating for these which are popularly referenced and ones that I use. I guess in my mind I was thinking cumulative not individual.
Generally, there's only a couple top tier mod types.
Then you have your budget builds,
Rivals,
_
But yeah, most people a 3S Stryfe mod is plenty for most players.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jn5ze5w_Zhc
Just get yourself a bunch of 18 mags, and a condor 3 fold dump pouch, or vism chest rig.
Also me personally I usually run an ammo pouch, with a large ziploc bag, with 2 vertical pieces of duct tape on one side, and then 2 cuts for belt loops.
I would strongly caution against a 35 quart pot. The Bayou Classic 44 quart (11 gallon) pot is only a little more, and it's of dimensions more ameniable to brewing (tall, rather than squat). If you plan to migrate to BiaB, the version with the basket is quite useful; you'll be able to fire your heat source without worrying about scorching the bag.
For ingredients, I would recommend looking around for a LHBS (local homebrew shop). You'll likely not save much money ordering those online, due to their weight/cost ratio, and a LHBS is often the centre of your local community of homebrewers.
With regard to literature, my bible is John Palmer's How To Brew. You can also read the first edition online, but much has been learnt since that was published and the latest edition has current best practices.
That equipment kit is decent, but there are a lot of things in it you'll probably wish you hadn't bought.
You will want:
This is what I have, it connects to the top of the steel drip tip and also acts as a male 14 mm piece if you just stuff the hose into the 14 mm female part of your rig https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07SPBFGTS?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Here's what you are looking for on Amazon
Honestly i dont know...i used it when i first built my 5 tap keezer and have since moved to using this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E6BCXQ8?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
Way cheaper, way more of it and i havent noticed a difference in beer taste at all.
I hated how rigid the bevseal line is, it made installing and finding places to hide the large coils when moving stuff around inside the keezer a giant pain in the ass
This other stuff is much easier to recoil into a tight coil, throw some zip ties around and move to the corners of my keezer. I wont be going back to bevseal, even if its given to me. Installing it is a god damn nightmare, and removing it from my shanks was just as painful.
Im using this
For any lurkers who might be interested in exploring this more:
ejaculating dildos often come with the type of syringes you're describing, you can buy them individually on Amazon, too without all of the medical ends & attachments and with a thicker exit hole to accompany the tubing that goes through ejaculating dildos. Here's a link to a solo 100ml syringe with the tubing so you can explore that particular section of syringes: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J26U3R8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
A small one could hold a couple shots of cum, easily. I use this 100ml one for pee-fetish stuff. Liquid always looks like it's got a greater volume than it actually does when it's outside of the container.
IDK as far as damage, but I imagine you'll get some slipping at the very least. Very well could damage it, but I have no idea.
Worse, draining it will probably be a pain in the ass with no drain plug. You'll end up with something like this to suck it out.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J26U3R8