Best urethane adhesives according to redditors

All my miniatures get a steel disc glued into the base. I do this for a couple reasons. Mostly, it’s a tactile decision. I want the lightweight plastic pieces to have a mass appropriate to their size when I pick them up. 

Most standard sized miniatures between 28 and 32 mm will only weigh a 3-5 grams after painted, but if you glue a 20, 25 and 30mm steel discs to their base they will weigh in around 10-14 grams. A subtle, but very noticeable improvement.  The difference is like playing with cheap plastic poker chips and heavy 14 gram 3-color clay poker chips in Vegas. 

In addition to the improved haptics, there are a few other benefits of adding steel disc to the base of all your minis.

Having the steel/iron in the base allows for a lot of secondary benefits. Most obvious is the partnership with Magnets. I glue a rare-earth magnet into the base or lid of a standard film canister and use that to hold my miniatures while I’m painting. The magnet system is strong enough to hold a miniature firmly in place for painting - I’ve used it for mini’s up to 60mm. 

Obviously, the film canister system acts as a good handle to hold your mini during painting. Super fast and easy to take one mini off and snap another one.  The system is cheap/simple enough that you could rig 10-12 canisters with magnets for painting large collections of troops. 

IF you want to be clever, you could glue in a steel disc on the opposite end of the canister and add a row of (rare-earth) magnets somewhere near your workspace to safely store and place a mini to dry without worrying about it toppling over. Plus if you did that, the magnetic lids/bottoms of the canister will stack and stick together in storage.  

For table top games that use trays to manage miniatures (Cmon’s ASOIAF for instance) the steel based-minis and a (small) magnet glued to the bottom of those trays help player usability quite a bit. The pieces snap (gently) into place and won’t topple over as easily if you ham-fist a move during the game. 

Anything  like a film canister will work. A link to bulk order of a 100 I used below. The canisters come in handy for holding custom mixes of paints, PVA, basing materials, and acrylic varnishes too.  And if you don’t like magnets, poster-tack works OK.

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NOTE RE: Glue

For gluing various plastics/resins, steel, and magnets I tried several types of glue: CA, PVA, 2-part epoxy, and hot-glue - NONE of those seem to really stick metal and plastic together in a durable way. The glue I found works was Gorilla glue. The small 2 Oz bottle is enough for hundreds of mini’s - and it goes bad in about a year at the rate we’ll use it in this hobby. — A couple caveats to this type of glue. A tiny drop is enough. The glue will tend to expand/foam/bubble slightly in the presence of water/moisture so test and plan accordingly. This isn’t a big deal, but it can create an unsightly unwanted yellow booger. I cover it in a primer coat just so it’s uniform looking.

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In 2018, I started buy tabletop games and painting miniatures. It started as a way to divert my grandson from video games, but it’s now it’s become my hobby too. 

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https://imgur.com/a/ex8x3gq

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100 Film Canisters

https://www.amazon.com/Houseables-Containers-Developing-Processing-Accessories/dp/B06XS21KMH/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1550432613&sr=8-2&keywords=film+cannisters+with+caps

Small Magnets for trays

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CNBSMDZ/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

VERY Strong Rare-Earth Neodymium Magnets for Painting Canisters

https://www.amazingmagnets.com/sf-disc-magnets.aspx

Steel disc blanks for miniature base (check sizes that will work for your base)

https://www.amazingmagnets.com/p-484-znsd032h.aspx

Fender washers

Local hardware store you can get Fender washers that have a 20-30 mm diameter. 

Gorilla Glue

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Original-Waterproof-Polyurethane-Bottle/dp/B0000DD5EN/ref=sr\_1\_16?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1550435031&sr=1-16&keywords=gorilla+glue

You can find two part expanding foam at places like TAP Plastics or on Amazon. It's cheaper in the long run if you intend on making a lot of stuff out of foam.

>>Polyurethane Expanding Liquid Foam 1/2 Gallon KIT, 8 LB Density Polyurethane Foam, Includes 1 Quart Part A & 1 Quart Part B, 2 Part Polyurethane Marine Foam https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007V231P6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.Y2QDbADQJEHA

https://www.tapplastics.com/product/repair_products/foam_insulation_materials/tap_x_30_polyurethane_foam/79

Looks like you need to re-do the expansion joint.

I'd start by getting a carpet knife. The hook on the knife makes it easier to dig all that stuff out of there. Get rid of the old caulk, foam backer, etc.

Take a shop vac around and clean everything out of that crack. If you leave stuff behind, it'll just be a place where things can start to go wrong again.

Now, you're going to need some new backer. You can get it at most pool equipment supply places. Here's an example: http://www.poolcenter.com/p/foam-backer-rod . You'll want to get it a tiny bit wider than the hole you're filling in. You just cut it to size using a razor knife.

Then, you're going to need caulk. I used Vulkem when I had to do this. http://www.amazon.com/Tremco-Vulkem-Polyurethane-Sealant-Caulk/dp/B000WTXMR2

The guide I used is located here: http://blog.poolcenter.com/article.aspx?articleid=6289

(Note: I'm not a pool pro. I just bought a house with a fixer-upper-pool, so have had to learn how to fix things on my own.)

http://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Urethane-Rigid-Foam-Density/dp/B00LNNWT7K

http://www.amazon.com/Mann-Release-Technologies-Ease-200/dp/B002YEBO1O

> no. you haven't added more stiffness than freakin welded in bars
how would foam improve stiffness anyway? haha

Well, since you asked so nicely...

Let's start off with the basics. Unibodies have hollow areas in them. Hollow objects are not solid, and they can flex. Not good.

There are types of expanding foam made out of urethane. The urethane expands and hardens as it dries. It's used in a variety of other applications, such as watercraft with fiberglass that needs reinforcement and help with buoyancy.

If you put it in certain hollow parts of the unibody, it stiffens them from the inside. This strengthens the area more than simply welding a cage to the outside of it. If the weld fails, then so does the reinforcement.

Key areas of application include the top of the a-pillar where the roofline curve begins, and parts of the lower frame rails, where the doorsills are. The unibody does not need to be completely filled with the foam.

Care has to be taken when using it, because some of the vehicle's wiring may be routed through these hollow areas. If you used the foam without removing that wiring and re-routing it, then that's that. Forget about accessing it later.

The foam is initially applied by mixing two different liquids together. As the foam dries and hardens, it expands. Some have used a bit too much, and watched the foam come spilling back out of the hole they poured in.

There are other pitfalls associated with the urethane foam. The foam also happens to be flammable, so there's another area to be careful. People have also bought the wrong material kit, and ended up filling their frame with goop similar to caulk that never dried or hardened.

However, when properly used, one can enjoy the benefits of greatly increased chassis stiffness without the fabrication work and added weight of a roll cage. Roll cages also present a challenge and potential hazard for street applications, since it is all too easy for the driver or passenger to be jolted and strike the cage with their own body. Even with padding around the bars, impact can lead to injury. The foam-filling method presents a safer option for those with cars that are mostly used on the road.

Try some vulkem 116 - it's flexible and comes in a bunch of different colors.

https://www.amazon.com/Tremco-Vulkem-Polyurethane-Sealant-Caulk/dp/B000WTXMR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487266912&sr=8-1&keywords=vulkem+116

Depending on what part of the country you're in you could probably find it at lowes/home depot/menards too

Anything you put in that's hard is going to crack again. I've used vulkem for years and it's pretty good stuff.

• Turnigy 9X
  
• transmitter pack
  
• backlight kit
  
• USBasp
  
• Extra reciever
  
• servos
  
• Gorilla Glue
  
• lipo checker
  
• motor/esc combo
  
• lipo charger
  
• airplane lipo
  
  You'll also need some Dollar tree foam, some music wire, clear tape, razor blades, ect. That setup will get you started with tons of room to grow. The one transmitter will handle 8 planes at least.

Yeah, it's not pretty but you can't see it through the speaker cover. This 2oz bottle has lasted about 2 years so far.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001L6CVS6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474924052&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=gorilla+white+super+glue&dpPl=1&dpID=51Worfk1AsL&ref=plSrch

Are your the sort of person who seals their shower with this: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0085GZI6C/ (below water line sealant)?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AAP3GVE/

I have an outer coller for aesthetics on 3 of 4 sides, but mine is held in place extremely well by White Gorilla Glue. It bonds really well to both the freezer and the wood.

So well in fact that I could not remove it for the life of me when I tried to transport my kegerator.

Sweet, sounds awesome, and just to verify - is this the correct product:

https://smile.amazon.com/Tremco-Vulkem-Polyurethane-Sealant-Caulk/dp/B0012J3H1C/

Sikaflex or similar product. They also have it at places like AutoZone. A few months ago I needed a small amount as adhesive and they had self dispensing compressed cans so you don't need a caulk gun.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NW5LWHA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cokkDb49KA0P5

Sikaflex is one of the best: https://www.amazon.com/Sikaflex-Polyurethane-Elastomeric-Construction-Moisture-Cured/dp/B019NO8N8Y/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1538355282&sr=8-14&keywords=sikaflex

Try this:

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-4537503-Glue-Clear-3-75oz/dp/B074J7XQZT/ref=sr_1_1_sspa/143-6630463-5090256?ie=UTF8&qid=1525661079&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=gorilla+glue+clear&psc=1