(Part 2) Best usb cables according to redditors
We found 6,307 Reddit comments discussing the best usb cables. We ranked the 1,529 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
![[3 Pack] Anker Powerline USB-C to USB 3.0 Cable (3ft) with 56k Ohm Pull-up Resistor for Samsung Galaxy Note 8, S8, S8+, S9, S10, MacBook, Sony XZ, LG V20 G5 G6, HTC 10, Xiaomi 5 and More](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41QoFDArCZL.jpg)
![[2-Pack] Anker 6ft / 1.8m Nylon Braided Tangle-Free Micro USB Cable with Gold-Plated Connectors for Android, Samsung, HTC, Nokia, Sony and More (Red)](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/416LZ68lIdL.jpg)
Wheres your god now?
Hey all, sorry I didn't post specs I was asleep
This is my general purpose tech kit. I used to do security research for the gov so I've collected some stuff over the years.
Keyboard is Rii Mini i8
Various adapters for HDMI, USB-C, Mini/Micro USB, and a USB-to-TTL Serial (Blue Cord)
RPI 3 with a bunch of microSD cards. This has many purposes such as wardriving, rogue hotspot, and general purpose linux.
Alfa USB Wireless Adapter
Ethernet Cables
Power Extender
USB Power Bank
And a static free bag
The USBs have since been replaced by a single YUMI USB I keep on my person but contain:
Spinrite, Kali, Tails, Hirens Boot CD, Rubber Duck, Windows Recovery, Mac Recover, and random tool installers
Expanded View https://i.imgur.com/mXPSR1s.jpg
USB-to-TTL Serial https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QT7LQ88/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Edit: This isn't actually really the "good" stuff because that's all in my notebook. I guess I could post a few pages from that?
Here are some of the chargers that are known to perform "GOOD" or "BEST" with the Switch.
---------
Best
Charger|Price (USD)|Link|Notes
--|--|--|--
Nintendo Switch AC Adapter|$29.99|Amazon US|This is the only charger you should use with the dock but it's big and doesn't work great with any phones
Google 18W Pixel charger|$35|Google Store|More portable than Nintendo's charger, great at charging phones too, 6ft detachable cable
Google 60W USB-C charger|$59.99|Google Store|Bundled with Chromebook Pixel 2, great for laptops, very long 12ft cable
Apple 61W USB-C charger|$69|Amazon US, Apple|Bundled with 2016 13" MacBook Pro, no cable included
Apple 87W USB-C charger|$79|Amazon US, Apple|Bundled with 2016 15" MacBook Pro, no cable included
RAVPower 26800mAh USB-PD battery|$74.99|Amazon US|Might charge much slower unless you turn off the Switch before plugging it in. Avoid the included bad AC adapter.
Here are some other links for the Pixel phone charger: Best Buy, UK version
---------
Good
Charger|Price (USD)|Link|Notes
--|--|--|--
Motorola TurboPower USB-C 15|$15.99|Amazon US|Non-detachable 5ft cable
SONEic 15W USB-C|$19.99|Amazon US|Detachable 3ft cable
HORI Switch car charger|$19.99|Amazon US|Probably the best car charger for now
Google 22.5W Dual Port USB-C charger|$39.99|Google Store|Two USB-C ports, includes one detachable 6ft cable
RAVPower 20100mAh USB-C battery|$57.99|Amazon US|
Apple 12W iPad USB charger|$19.99|Amazon US, Apple|Requires a USB A-to-C cable, better than any other USB-A chargers
--------
Cables
I won't list prices here since they fluctuate a lot. Some of the chargers listed above have a non-removable cable. All the others (except the iPad charger) require a USB C-to-C cable.
USB C-to-C: For the Macbook, Google, SONEic, and battery pack chargers listed above. Here are a few on Amazon: AmazonBasics,
Anker, Cable Matters, Aukey.
USB A-to-C: The iPad charger is the only one that gives good charging speeds with these. The 5ft cable included with the Pro Controller works. Here are some others on Amazon: AmazonBasics, Anker, Cable Matters, Aukey.
No matter which charger you use, it doesn't matter whether the cable says it's USB 2.0, USB 3.0, or USB 3.1. They all charge at the same speed. Just make sure it has the correct plug shape on each end, that it has good reviews at a reputable merchant, and that it's long enough for how you want to use it.
Get one of these
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0071BJK34?cache=1563c37bd191b3ee14976c593caa1e8f&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1411653834&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1
3DS usb cable charger
there are a number of 3rd party solutions for magsafe functionality for the new MBP. One example - Amazon griffin BreakSafe <-- see edit
Is it ridiculous that you would need to pay an extra $40 for the new MBP, yes. But that is the standard for being an apple fan. I refuse to have my iphone not in a case with a screen protector or to have my rMBP not in a sleeve when using it at school or traveling. The technology is too expensive not to opt for a quality accessory especially if it is protective like magsafe is.
Edit: the linked 3rd party magsafe usb-c doesn't have good reviews, don't buy. Look for better similar options out there, they exist if you absolutely need magsafe.
Griffin BreakSafe Magnetic USB-C Breakaway Power Cable for MacBooks and Chromebook Pixel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CQTK6GU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PAqxybT0RVBYP
Easy way to make really obnoxious portable LED projects:
USB Battery for 5v power. Minimum 2A output.
USB to barrel jack adapter
Radio Remote Control - lots of options here
Extra connectors
ws2812b LED strips
Anker PowerLine.
Dont try to cheap out on USB-C cables, you can easily destroy equipment.
There are usb 2.0 devices that use usb C. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-Type-C-2-0-Cable/dp/B01GGKZ1VA
bring a DSi/3DS to USB cable
although the console only takes in 4.7v instead of the 5v USB puts out from the ifixit teardown of the 3DS the charging components are high quality enough to handle the extra power.
Use a break away cable.
https://www.amazon.com/Griffin-BreakSafe-Magnetic-Breakaway-Chromebook/dp/B01CQTK6GU
Yes here is is £25....
UGREEN USB Extension Cable, USB 3.0 Male to Female Active Repeater Cable with Signal Amplifier Repeater for Printers, Wifi Antenna, PlayStation, HTC VIVE, Keyboard, Game Console (10M) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01FQ88CHS/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_i_C4-1DbAGSKPR7
You don't need a TB3 cable.
Just look for the 10gbps or Gen 2 in the description and get a cable from Anker, Monoprice, AmazonBasics or Plugable. These are always 3.3ft (1m) or less see the table here https://community.cypress.com/docs/DOC-10693
These brands can safely be recommended.
I distinguished this comment -- which is probably a slight abuse my mod privileges -- to signal that I know more of these affairs to avoid the "A said X, B said Y" dilemma. You need to trust me :)
I use this USB extender and this DisplayPort cable along with one of these DP couplers with no issues. The DisplayPort cable is like double the length I need, but the price difference between the 10m and 20m one was only like $10, so I couldn't justify buying the shorter one, haha. Perhaps the length may be useful in the future!
I love Anker cables. This one is supposed to have PD support according to one of the pictures. https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Probably-Certified-Matebook/dp/B071WNXY1R/ref=sr_1_4?s=wireless&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519316443&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=anker+powerline+c+to+c
Here are the accessories I got to go with my SL3, they all have worked well for me:
> Dock draws 12W of power, so I recommend using this as a home dock that is plugged in all of the time
> This dock has no power draw overhead, so I use it for travel. It also doesn't have power pass through or ethernet
> Slow data speed - is only meant as a charging cable
> It is still a little bit slower to charge than the OEM 65W charger
Yeah, it's pretty nice. When in a pinch, I've used a USB-C to μUSB-B cable to charge my Sony SmartWatch 3 from my Nexus 6p
I'm sure there are cheaper options, but I use this cable
People who think all cords, adapters, and dongles are created equal, and aren't willing to pay the outrageous prices that apple charges for their cords.
On apple's website, they charge 19.99 for a 3ft lightning cord, just the cord. Any rational person would find that outrageous, so they'd search elsewhere. And because of apple's licensing, just about the only reasonably priced ones they could find would be from china.
Several weeks ago i bought a 6ft Micro Usb-a cord for my s6. Its anker brand (awesome brand, well known for corded electronics). Supposedly (and believably) its kevlar and braided nylon. I've deliberately mistreated it and its still kicking... 6 bucks.
Low quality Apple lightning= $6.66 per foot
Anker 6ft kevlar cord= $1 per foot.
Sorry, had to throw in a plug for this bad ass cord.
Edit: here's a link for any one interested... the packaging is super nice too.
Or you could just buy a cord like that instead of destroying your power adapter.
These Mediabridge cables are the best I've found.
Meet the Griffin BreakSafe Magnetic USB-C Power Cable.
AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB Type-C 2.0 Cable - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters) - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKZ1VA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MBzKAbY67WD6E
My suggestion for everyone, reasonable price and high quality (brand tested by the Google Engineer, approved. I also tested the outputs with my own multimeter and noted they meet spec after reading all about his comments):
6 ft USB 3 to USB-C:
https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-PowerLine-Resistor-Including-ChromeBook/dp/B01E9W8KYC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485529618&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=anker+usb-c
3 pack 6ft USB 3 to USB-C:
https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-PowerLine-Resistor-Including-ChromeBook/dp/B01HF0YGCK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485529618&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=anker+usb-c
Portable battery pack that I got for my future switch (includes all needed cables):
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B014ZO46LK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
edit: I was intrigued by the power meter linked above from satechi. I ordered it, will test that device to and see what the devices/cables I have output through it. Probably take more than a week to get to Canada, and it cost an arm and a leg to ship.
Powerline or Powerline+ will suite your needs. 3 Pack for $12
https://smile.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Pull-up-Resistor-Nintendo/dp/B01HF0YGCK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520990533&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=anker+usb+c
You're going to want USB-IF certified cables + chargers, and not just ones that say they are.
This cable from Anker is a full-featured Type C to Type C cable, if you need a 3.1 Gen 2 cable that supports 100W charging.
This cable from Veckle is the same - 100W, full-featured 3.1 Gen 2. Unfortunately 3ft/1m is the longest you're going to get with a 3.1Gen2 cable.
If you want a charging-only cable this 2-pack of 6ft cables is also capable of 100W charging, but only USB 2.0 speeds for data.
EDIT:
This j5create cable is a bit pricey and short (2.3ft). It's a 100W USB 3.1 Gen 2 cable, and it is extremely well-built. That's not to say the rest of the cables are poor in quality, but this one goes above and beyond. I wouldn't get this unless you have more money than you know what to do with.
This is my ipad-focused case that I keep in my backpack. It contains the following:
(1) USB C to Lightning Cable
(1) USB C to USB C Cable
(1) USB A to Lightning Cable
(1) Foldable Keyboard
(1) USB C Hub
(1) 45W USB C Power Bank & (1) 45W Wall Charger
(1) Set of Apple Airpods
(2) 128GB Flashdrives
I'm also using this case for my iPad, and this screen protector.
Hope this helps!
This should work
http://www.amazon.ca/Startech-Com-Barrel-Power-Cable-USB2TYPEM/dp/B003MQO96U
Occuli is the plural of Oculus, however the product is the Rift, so the plural would be Oculus Rifts :-p
Also, this is neato, but for the simplicity of it, I just bought myself one of these and I've never even taken the power adapter out of my devkit box: Startech 5v to usb
https://www.amazon.com/Griffin-BreakSafe-Magnetic-Breakaway-Chromebook/dp/B01CQTK6GU
https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/volta-xl-the-only-charging-cable-you-ll-ever-need#/
this is about as close as you are going to get
someone pointed me towards this cable rather than the hack and slash.
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB2TYPEM-Barrel-Power-Cable/dp/B003MQO96U
but it didn't try it yet
What you need is an active usb extension cable that will power properly. I use a 10 Meter active cable
Don't pay for 2 day shipping, just get Amazon Prime. It's so worth the money.
Also, you'll want one of these to go with an external battery: http://www.amazon.com/Gator-Crunch-Charge-Cable-Nintendo/dp/B0071BJK34/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1374374641&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=3ds+cable
That's the one I have, and it works well.
what an awesome idea. and caps lock?! what have i been doing my entire life reaching all the way over to t lmao. could maybe modify a piano sustain foot pedal?
&#x200B;
EDIT: https://www.amazon.com/Pedal-Video-Control-Hands-Camera-Footswitch/dp/B0098PLPOI
they do exist. would have to bind it to a specific key that you set for ptt, but it is feasable.
a cable like this would give you charge from your phone to the headphones (provided, like most bluetooth headphones, they charge with a micro usb cable) and also let you use your existing nexus chargers https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-USB-C-Braided-Jacket/dp/B00UUBRX0Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473089112&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+c+micro+usb+cable
The best I've seen is MagC, but it won't be out until maybe May of next year. MagC is really low-profile (15.1 mm), it's reversible, and it does data and video in addition to power. This is thinner than that 15.1 mm figure would indicate. This is the only one that uses an "L" design so that the USB-C cable enters at a 90-degree angle and doesn't add to the length that the dongle sticks out from the laptop. This is by far the best design.
The next best one, imo, is Snapnator. It's sticks out 25.8 mm. It's reversible, but it only does power. (It can't be used for data or video.) I would probably get this one if I had to get one right now.
The third best is MagNeo. It just started shipping to the KickStarter backers, but I'm not sure if new customers can purchase it at the moment. Athough at 24 mm MagNeo is a little thinner than Snapnator, the part that stays stuck to the laptop is thicker than Snapnator (8mm in MagNeo vs 5.8mm in Snapnator). MagNeo is better than Snapnator in that it does both data and video in addition to power. On the downside, it's not reversible, though.
The fourth best one is the Griffin BreakSafe. Griffin was the first to market, but it's the thickest at 30 mm. It also isn't compatible with the maximum wattage of the power adapters for the MacBook Pro (neither the 13-inch and 15-inch models from 2016 and 2017); It is rated only high enough to work with the 12-inch MacBook. It's also not reversible, and it can't be used for data or video.
If anyone knows of anymore of these things, I'm interested in them. Here's a spreadsheet I made a while back:
https://www.reddit.com/r/mac/comments/6j25to/comparison_of_magnetic_breakaway_adapters_for_usb/
Edit: Decided I like Snapnator more than MagNeo.
I bought this cable, but I also had to put a usb hub at the end of it, otherwise it didn't work. Adding a couple of extra extensions at either end should work and get it to extend even farther if you need.
They do.
Anything like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GGKZ1VA/ref=3pHDMI_hqp?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=hero-quick-promo&amp;pf_rd_r=FRXPTC4XQZGZQXZ191Z1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_p=2991131682&amp;pf_rd_i=B01D175HMO
https://www.amazon.com/CablePlux-Braided-Delivery-MacBook-Nintendo/dp/B01MYAYN5U/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497297853&amp;sr=8-18&amp;keywords=usb+c+to+c+cable
https://www.amazon.com/USB-C-Cable-6-6ft-MacBook-Pro/dp/B06Y4N4K9Z/ref=sr_1_37?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497298024&amp;sr=8-37&amp;keywords=usb+c+to+c+cable
I can confirm that these cables work: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01HF0YGCK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://gist.github.com/jdamcd/6054951
Some are listed there, more information if you Google search. Likely requires root on most phones. Using a Google vendor ID for USB is the best option.
Not saying that this is going to fix all these issues but it's things to try for any phone. From the sounds of it there is a broader issue here but I would look at my thoughts above for things to try regardless. :)
This cable charges my iPad super fast in conjunction with this charger. The cable is a USB C gen 2 cable which means it supports much faster charging and data transfer (the new iPad has a gen 2 port). I also charge my Lenovo yoga 720 at full speed with no issues. For a good USB C to USB A charger (at 3.0 speeds) I recommend this.
I use an Anker 6ft USB-C to USB-C. Very strong cable but still not too thick.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EMINIWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KLKVCbPTEPNSR
US link ( (no referral)
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Extension-Repeater-Amplifier-Superspeed/dp/B01FQ88CHS
If this works I'm seriously thinking of getting this and connecting my VR system in my basement up to my living room. (already have an Ethernet cable running up there to my router) This would be sweet, get whole family to use it! and them just put the quest in the corner when not in use. Should be wife approved!
I went with an anker cable. Went with this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WNXY1R/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I can't quite fathom how that would even work, and it seems like it could be problematic.
You'd have more guarenteed results using a cable like this.
I bought a $7 USB power cable from Amazon. My power brick is put away in the case. No mods necessary. Plug and play.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MQO96U/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
So I've basically got a 30ft active HDMI cable and a 30ft USB2 repeating cable running from my PC, through the flat and into my Vive room. The cables are tucked away against the walls and around frames so they're out of the way. I've had this setup for about 6 months now and it's worked great. Meant I didn't have to move my entire office setup into the other room.
Here's the cables I use -
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Redhead-Sewell-Premium-Redmere-Technology-x/dp/B00K00Y4XY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484749348&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=30ft+active+hdmi
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plugable-Meter-Active-Extension-Female/dp/B004AGX4YO/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484749421&amp;sr=8-3-fkmr1&amp;keywords=30ft+usb2+active
I use an Incipio offGRID IP-679 along with this cable. I got the IP-679 as a work anniversary gift even though I knew I'd probably never end up using it and there was nothing else on the list I would remotely even want. I'm glad I did though, because it lasts forever. It's just a generic USB charger so it's not meant to attach to the 3DS but it's smaller than my iPhone 5s so it's super easy to pick up the charger and 3DS in one hand if I want to move to a different room. The cable I linked to is almost 4 feet long (about 44 inches) so your 3DS doesn't have to sit right next to the charger. You have plenty of wiggle room.
I use an Anker (here) with one of these. I've never done a full set of charge cycles on one Anker charge, but it should charge my XL 5-7 times before the Anker itself needs a charge. I usually share the power with my phone though.
It's also worth noting I use the 1st gen Anker - I've had it for 2 years and it's still going strong. This one looks even better - especially the fact that it can detect what current to send to your device (mine has a 1A and 2A port)
This shouldn't cost you more than $40-50 total. I'm seeing the 13000 mAh battery at $30 right now, and the cable is about $6 shipped.
Get a Foot Pedal.
The ML part isn't a flash, it's an SDRAM. (System memory). And there's a spot for a 2nd one as well.
uboot is a bootloader commonly used on embedded Linux systems. It's VERY popular particularly on ARM based embedded Linux boards.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Das_U-Boot
That board ALSO has an unsoldered RJ45 network connector. If I had to guess? I'd say this is some SoC reference design board from China that's designed to run Android.
I see it also has a Realtek WIFI chip, and a WIFI antenna connected to the micro-coax on the lower right corner.
How do we know 115,200 baud rate for the UART? Because that's what most everything uses. There are exceptions for slower CPUs, or systems that spew a lot of data, but generally speaking, that's what it is.
Once you get your serial header attached, you should connect it to something like this: https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-WINDOWS-Supported-Raspberry-Programming/dp/B00QT7LQ88/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=USB+serial+to+wires&qid=1575076742&sr=8-8
And run Putty(Windows), or minicom(Linux), to see the output. I'd just about bet that if you capture the entire boot sequence output, it'll tell you what the CPU is that's under the heatsink, removing the need to pull the heatsink.
I got this cord and this charger for charging while in hand held mode and it works great.
Finding options is minimal effort. Go to amazon, search for “usbc to usbc”, then filter the result by 10ft or greater lengths.
https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Solution-Charging-Chromebook-Nintendo/dp/B01DVQKW5M/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519130445&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=Usbc+to+usbc&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_five_browse-bin%3A7800928011
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-WiRoTech-Black-USB-C-Charging/dp/B01E1O1QBM/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519130445&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=Usbc+to+usbc&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_five_browse-bin%3A7800928011
https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Braided-Charging-Nintendo-Chromebook/dp/B01D175HMO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519130418&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=Usbc+to+usbc
So far, very enjoyable to type on. Coming from my TKL the transition has been surprisingly easy (although I imagine if I hadn't learned to touch-type first that might not be the case). I usually sit around 95WPM (on my preferred typing test at least...), after about a day on the Let's Split I was at something like 50WPM. A week later I was at ~80WPM and now, two weeks later, I'm back at my normal typing speed. I am getting a lot of satisfaction out of customizing my layouts/layers, the split form factor is very comfortable, and I love the MX Clears. Overall, I'd say this has been a success in all ways except budget expectation vs. reality...
Parts:
^and ^lets ^all ^pretend ^the ^picture ^isn't ^blurry ^please ^I ^didn't ^notice ^until ^after ^I ^put ^the ^camera ^away
Here are some other photos.
M-Audio UNO https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00007JRBM/ref=cm\_sw\_r\_cp\_apa\_XnR7BbYECRTK8
I got this: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB2TYPEM-Barrel-Power-Cable/dp/B003MQO96U
You can put a laptop in a bag and go anywhere. Make sure your USB ports can actually supply the power needed.
I would love to hear about wireless options myself, I could never find out that seemed like it would work the way I wanted. I ultimately opted on using this cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AGX4YO which is a 32 foot usb repeater that works flawlessly.
Take a look at MediaBridge cables. They are the best built I have come across. Much thicker than the average but still flexible. On their site they say it will charge pretty much any device(including note 3 at full power) so I'm guessing they use a thicker gauge wire but I'm not positive. Might look into them though. I use one for my PI without problems.
This is the one I've been using.
I'd been having the same problem as you. This one is sturdy, stays in the controller, charges, the whole shebang. Cheap-ish, and it does come in a few lengths, if that's your thing.
You can actually get up to 1A depending on the charger. A proper charger will short out the right lines in order to have the highest output.
I'm using this cable, which gives me at least 1A (GS3) - it charges faster than my OEM cable, actually.
If you really want a charging only cable, take a look at this one.
Hopefully you'll pick out the right cable, there's multiple Mini-USB ports.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GF8TIK/
I have a couple of those. They're rock solid and reliable. Obviously a bit pricier than necessary, but I like Amazon, and $6 or $2 doesn't make a huge difference to me for a cable or two.
Its not really about the cable, its about the adapter. Check and see how many milliamps your car charger has compared to your charger at work, and i can almost bet that the car charger is 1000milliamps(1amp) or better.
Assuming you have a smartphone, you want to have a charger that supports it.
As far as cables, this is what I use for charging. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GF8TIK/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i02
Buy a USB cable on Amazon; never think about this again.
There might be something wrong with the charger itself. A cheap USB charging cable may help, I think
I've looked a bit into this as well and the Mugen does seem to be the only 'integrated' solution. It's nice that you can bolt it on relatively seamlessly but I also decided I don't want to carry the extra weight around all the time (or a little screwdriver to constantly change it in and out).
Personally I ended up adding this external charger to my Amazon wishlist for next time I travel along with this USB 3DS charger cord for about $60 less put together. (And I'll get to charge my iPhone with it too!)
Anyone has a link to that pedals thingy that Hecz was using in his vlog? There is no link for it in the description.
EDIT: found it if anyone is interested https://www.amazon.com/Pedal-Video-Control-Hands-Camera-Footswitch/dp/B0098PLPOI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500896266&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=USB+pedal
Yep; I use https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098PLPOI/. So much better
I use this type myself: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AA0U08M
These should work to: https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Active-Extension-Extender-Female/dp/B0179MXKU8
I use this one with my Explorer.
https://www.amazon.ca/Monoprice-15-Feet-Female-Active-Extension/dp/B00AA0U08M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1535860717&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=monoprice+usb+3+extension
Only issue I had is the audio static problem you can get when using extension cables, as most systems don't send enough power down the line. Anyway, it's a motherboard problem, not a cable issue. I remedied that with a powered USB 3.0 hub on the end of this cable.
This is the 3.0 cable I used https://www.amazon.ca/Monoprice-15-Feet-Female-Active-Extension/dp/B00AA0U08M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499831767&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=monoprice+3.0
It's a little more expensive in canada, 26 dollars, its only 15' long though, I don't know if thats too short for you.
Headset HDMI Extender - 10' - https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004C4SECG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Headset USB Extender - 10' - https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Two Sensor USB Extenders - 15' - https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00AA0U08M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Was playing Arizona Sunshine last night, zero issues with this setup.
I am using 1 with the cord that came with a new sensor, two with these (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AA0U08M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) and the furthest one uses both of those together. The one on my desk is just close enough to not need an extension
I'm not familiar with the ER-X, but sadly it looks like unlike the ER-Lite, which used a USB drive (easy to remove and re-flash in a PC), the flash memory is soldered in the ER-X.
From what I can see there is a serial port exposed by a 4-pin header on the PCB, and you can re-flash it from the bootloader with TFTP.
https://community.ubnt.com/t5/EdgeMAX/What-are-the-recovery-options-on-a-EdgeRouter-X/td-p/1465254
Seems like a warranty-voiding exercise, but if it's out of warranty I'd say grab a cheap 3.3V serial cable (this sort of thing) and go nuts.
Ok. I’m glad you asked. Ha ha.
First, let me mention that you can use a USB cable plugged into a power source then use male to male headphone cables to get the old analogue sound but that’s not the ideal way to use the G6. In fact, sometimes I’ve found that the Switch sound wasn’t strong enough for the G6 to pick up.
Ideally, you want to use the USB. It’s worth it.
Here is what I do / have done / continue to do.
1: You can get a cable that has USB-C on one end and micro USB on the other
Cable Matters USB C to Micro USB Cable (Micro USB to USB-C Cable) with Braided Jacket 3.3 Feet in Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UUBRX0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DRGwCbRSPDZ6D
The problem is that you run into an issue when you need a charge since the USB is taken with the G6.
I also found that if you power the G6 and the Switch by the same charger, you get a power whine so you can’t plug them both into a multi USB charger. It’s too loud to ignore so that also didn’t work.
2. Here is how I solved the problem of being able to use the G6 in handheld mode and still be able to power it.
I found a dongle that lets me power the Switch as well as the G6 while still allowing me to connect to to the G6 via USB.
If you use this thing, you can connect the G6 to the USB port, connect a power source with PD to the USB power input, and connect the built-in USB-C to the Switch.
Anker USB C Hub, 3-in-1 Type C Hub, 4K USB C to HDMI Adapter, USB 3.0, with 60W Power Delivery Charging Port for MacBook Pro 2016/2017/2018, ChromeBook, XPS, and More (Space Grey) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DD8BLJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n4GwCbQ5671ZC
It ended up being a little annoying how short the attached cable was because it has to hang out of the Switch. I had to find a USB-C extension cable that allowed for power AND DATA transfer. Lots of power cables out there that won’t carry the data which is what the cable needs for the G6 and Switch to communicate. I ended up finding this cable and it worked beautifully:
Poyiccot USB Type C Extension Cable (3.3Ft/1M), High Speed Super Fast Gen 2 (10Gbps) USB 3.1 Type C Male to C Female Extension Charging & Sync Cable Cord For Nintendo Switch, Macbook & More (Straight) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3OHPD7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_26GwCb8VAGK0R
The setup I’ve finally settled in on to be able to charge the Switch, power the G6, and connect the G6 to the Switch by USB is this:
Power Supply with 60W PD —>
Anker adapter in USB C PD port
G6 plugged into the USB port with a micro USB cable
Switch plugged into the attached USB-C cable built into the Anker adapter (with the USB-C extension cord I bought)
Headphones plugged into the G6
It sounds complicated... and it was complicated to figure out... but now, I LOVE IT.
I assume you meant unbreakable, but virtually all cables are the same. Some advertise rugged/reinforced/durable, but honestly just don't buy cheap unbranded crap.
Also if you're constantly stepping on them, then stop buying ridiculously long cables. Get either 1, 3 or 6 feet at most, setup a dedicated charging area on a nightstand or your computer area, lay down some 3M Gripping Material, and use cable ties to keep the cables close against the walls and up the edge of your desk so there's no slack.
Anything from Anker or that has a braided cable will do fine. Like the Anker PowerLine, or Tough Tested micro-usb cables are both fine.
Not true whatsoever. Apple doesn't hold a patent on magnetic breakaway usb cables, only the magsafe cable (which they don't use anymore)
Also, there's plenty of reputable brands making magnetic breakaway cables, including Griffin.
They do but if you read the reviews it's not that good
Speak there is already a USB C cable that had magnetic break away built it.. https://www.amazon.com/Griffin-BreakSafe-Breakaway-Chromebook-replacement/dp/B01CQTK6GU, and sure there are going to be many more along the way.. Apple already figured out it wasn't something that needed reinvention Also, with all USB C/Thunderbolt, they have standardized ports, so they can't rely on consumer lock-in. But you know.. damn Apple for not catering to every consumers little demands
Fair enough, i considered going back to windows too but after using windows 10 for a while i really missed macOS. Everything just seems much smoother when using macOS. The dongle situation is not a major issue for me as i dont use that many external devices apart from my hard drive and controller. The lack of magsafe is something that im definitely feeling right now, but ive got a griffin breaksafe which basically lets me have magsafe functionality again but at a cost.
I use an Anker Power line and Cable Creations. Both are great. The Anker is 6' the cable creations is 10'. I use the Google type C brick for both.
Anker PowerLine+ C to C 2.0 cable (6ft), High Durability, for USB Type-C Devices Including Samsung Galaxy Note 8 S8 S8+ S9, iPad Pro 2018, Google Pixel, Nexus 6P, Huawei Matebook, MacBook and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LNA0XCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6hF7CbNYHEMBD
USB C Cable 10ft, CableCreation USB C to USB C Braided Data & Charging Cable (20V,3A) up to 480Mbps, Compatible with MacBook(Pro), Galaxy S10/S9/S9+, Pixel XL 2,etc (Space Gray) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D175HMO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ujF7Cb6HSQV6D
This cable works great for me https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D175HMO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
After going through six other cables, including USB-C to C and USB-C to A, I can confirm the following works:
JOTO USB Type C Cable Extra Long 10ft, USB-C 3.1 Type-C to USB 3.0 Type A https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B017COHTJ6/
EDIT: Added to Link Hardware Poll
I can also confirm the followed didn't work for me (in a PCI-E USB-C adapter or the RXT2080 USB-C):
DIDN'T WORK - CableCreation USB C Cable 10ft, Braided USB-C 10ft https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D175HMO/
DIDN'T WORK: AmazonBasics Double Braided Nylon USB Type-C 10ft
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CWC39TL/
Anker, top quality
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Braided-Tangle-Free-Gold-Plated-Connectors/dp/B01DEMTOQ6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549229830&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=anker+usb+micro+cable
Give these a try.... They will last longer than most... Still a good idea to buy more Every couple months lol https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DEMTOQ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t5QKybK53Q5D0
I had a similar issue; no baud rates were connecting reliably. I replaced the mini usb cord with a higher quality one and it started working. I still have to manually select the baud rate though. [Link] (https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Braided-Tangle-Free-Gold-Plated-Connectors/dp/B01DEMTOQ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501459844&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=anker+mini+usb+cable) to the cable I bought.
I have both of these. The monoprice one seems to have trouble with monitors for video output, but work absolutely fine with the Nexus 6P.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EMINIWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CnMLybVJNH0PE
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VU3F4FW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4oMLybMEVV1AS
How about this one? General advice, I would say you should stick to purchasing charging accessories from AmazonBasics, Anker, Aukey, or Ravpower, as those seem to have the most consistent reviews with Anker being the runaway favorite.
No worries on the questions. There wasn't any lag I consciously noticed. I won't say zero input lag but no noticeable lag. I'll probably do some more testing tomorrow.
If you've tried pavlov native to the quest you likely noticed how blurry and hard to use gun sights were. Good news is link runs at a higher resolution and I had no problem using sights. I don't think it's native res much yet but still higher than what native quest games normally use.
I'm running a 4790k and had no issues with CPU usage, it was perfectly stable.
My biggest complaint with link is the oculus head sets have less buttons so you can't use twin stick H3VR controls I'm used to on the index. I'm not sure this is really an issue so much as a perk of the index controllers. The vive and all other head sets have the same limitation after all. That said you can still use arm swinging mode that a good number of users are fond of, or single stick mode so still a ton of movement options.
Some users of link talk about compression artifacts but to be honest I haven't been able to pick any out, image quality is great. I used this cable. I then use a small shorter cable for the last foot. This one is ziped tied onto the head set and the larger cable is removable. I can take a pic if you'd like.
As with all first time users of VR I recommend getting it from a place with easy returns like amazon. If your in the DC-Maryland area I'd offer you a demo.
If you've got any other questions ask away, it is a big purchase after all.
Some Amazon Basics USB C cables on sale too!
3 ft $6.85
6 ft $7.27
I still haven't got one, so I can't vouch for it but I'm planning on an Amazon Basics 6ft braided cable.
This, based on how long-lasting my iPhone cable turned out.
this one I have been using it for months and it is GREAT. absolutely no problems.
This is Benson Leungs Review on it he is that Google engineer who tests the usb c cables.
Imo its the best cable for the money right now hands down. No contest.
I use this C to C cable and it's worked fine for me. I think it has to be the USB 2.0 version and no fast charging.
I haven't tried transferring files with it though because I use the one provided in the box and leave it plugged into my PC. I could try when I get home from work in the evening.
I like Anker's cables. They have a 3-pack of 3ft and a 2 pack of 6ft.
here you go mate: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Pull-up-Resistor-Including/dp/B01HF0YGCK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500351977&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=Anker+USB+C
Original size: Not sure, but it's either a meter or slightly less.
The ones I linked you are almost a meter long.
EDIT: Added a few items
I've been using these, and they have held up well.
Cable (original Essential cable was 3ft, I prefer longer): https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B071WNXY1R/
Small Charger: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07GWNYC4W/
Big charger: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07H54MKQY/
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Your charger is fine. The cable is the problem. USB-A to USB-C won't work. USB-C to USB-C can work if the cable is rated for power delivery. I bought one from J-Go Tech and another from Anker. Both of these work:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q7WJGWP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JYDQ7N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I agree, I bought this one and it's been great so far.
yes, I am using my Pixel Xl charger to charge the battery pack. It is indeed 4.5 hrs of charge.
I did buy some C to C cables from anker. they are very long and work just like my Stock Pixel C to C cables. Which are pretty good tbh.
here are the cables https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EMINIWW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I needed to extend my Rift so I use a Vive Link Box w/this psu, which works great. It's an active repeater made for VR and is not finicky about cables or long runs. It has a mini displayport input (and hdmi, either work) so I use a dp > mini dp cable along with a usb. It's nice to have a clean/functional breakout box to plug into in my living room where I use it even though my computer is in my bedroom.
The HMD doesn't need USB3.0 and is in fact is a waste of a 3.0 port if you are limited on bandwidth. For extensions for the sensors, I recommend Ugreen active USB3.0 (Amazon says 30ft but Ugreen says 10m, which would be 32-33ft) , you only need two of these as the headset and a third sensor can both use USB2.0 just fine.
This video gave me the stuff I needed:
https://youtu.be/l3HXpJVPoCU
Here’s the DisplayPort cable I’m using:
CableCreation DP Fiber Optic... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K1ZPSZN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And the usb extender:
UGREEN USB Extension Cable USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FQ88CHS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You’ll also need a DP coupler, this is the one I got:
Cable Matters 2-Pack DisplayPort... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YFPM2CU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I do want to point out that I was having issues with this setup until I plugged the USB extender into my USB 3.1 card I installed in my motherboard.
This is the card I installed:
Rosewill RC-509 PCI-E (PCI Express) to USB 3.1 (Type A +Type C) Expansion Card USB 3.1 Gen II SuperSpeed 10Gbps Internal 15-Pin Power Connector USB-C Port 3A Charging Power With Asmedia Chipset https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRSTZXX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nCeWDbYQR65M3
The index only supports USB 3.0 but I suspect that USB 3.1 might supply a more stable power source. Also do make sure that with the fiber optic DP cable, you plug the side that says “source” into your graphics card and “display” into your trident connector. Seems obvious but I ran the cable twice the wrong way both times thinking I had the correct ends at each end.
Hey I have the Anker cable (one which is recommended by Oculus). Does the usb repeater/extender work with the Anker cable?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01FQ88CHS/
having tried many with issues, Ugreen's have been the best. Really recommend them. If want all USB 3.0 then make sure to get an active cable past 5m's.
I recently added the 10m active variant and I was happy to see it have 0 issues, no sensor warnings or dropping to usb 2 at all:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01FQ88CHS
I have found that the following combination works flawlessly for me at 10 meters:
Coupler:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00IGSBFJI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
DisplayPort cable:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00V7NOST8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
USB 3.0 cable:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01FQ88CHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I tried the above DisplayPort and USB cable with this coupler, AND IT DID NOT WORK:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0037LNXW6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I was receiving sparkling RGB pixels on black surfaces and the HMD would occasionally lose connection.
I just set up my Rift in a room upstairs from my PC. 10m cables routed through the attic for 3 cameras and 10+5m for the headset.
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I used the UGREEN USB3 extension cables for 3 cameras and the headset. And CSL HDMI cables. I actually bought about £300 of cables from Amazon just so that I had plenty of options when setting up and then sent back everything I didn't use.
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https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00DYPFUNU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01FQ88CHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Couple of problems to look out for...
Before the extensions all were reporting as USB3.
Amazon Basics work perfectly fine and are Benson Leung approved.
They come in 0.5, 3, 6, or 9 feet.
Yeah so just get you one of these
AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB Type-C 2.0 Charger Cable - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters) - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKZ2SC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PhiPDbC50ZQMF
Plus a USB-c wall charger like this one
AmazonBasics 18W One-Port USB-C Wall Charger for Tablets and Phones with Power Delivery - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NW7FFLX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ojiPDbQ6WE1MV
And you'll be good to go. The charger you have is never going to give you rapid charging.
(of the products I listed, I can vouch for the cable because I bought the same one. Can't say on the wall charger though but that one seems like a decent one)
I wouldn't trust anyone who doesn't get their USB-C cable certified by USB-IF.
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Is there any reason you don't want the AmazonBasics cable of the same kind?
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-Type-C-Charger-Cable/dp/B01GGKZ2SC
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$7.56 today. Not Baseus cheap, but you can have the confidence it is done right.
I carry this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NAWVQ0Y/ for the legacy port, and this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GGKZ2SC for usb C. there's a 3' version too that works fine when I know I won't need the extra cable length.
Lastly there's a USB C to lightning cable if you carry an iPhone that supports fast charging.
I travel a lot and I'm OCD about efficiency on planes - I keep it pretty minimal cable wise.
As far as replacements cables go if required, get an Anker or Aukey A-C cable pack or an Aukey C-C pack
but it sounds like something on the phone side needs fixing
In both cases, I have the extension cable coming from the back into the middle console, from there, I have the Anker cable. Some people on Reddit had issues with the extension cable, luckily, I haven't had that problem. This sounds like exactly my problem with the 2330 NEX, and a firmware update made the Android connect exponentially faster. Went from 15-30 seconds to under 3 seconds. Here is the cable that I bought. Don't have a commection problem with our two NEX or Ford Sync 3 systems with Android Auto. I do have a problem with using Android Auto calling people, and I can't hear them on Bluetooth. There appears to be a handoff issue that has been outstanding for awhile in AA. It works fine with the new update, but one day doesn't make a fix. :)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HF0YGCK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VFfqDbBS875S3
Good luck and hopefully that takes care of it! Just wanted to toss my 2 cents in, these cables from Anker fixed my issues after I had the same issues you're describing. They seem to fit a little more snug in both ends and I haven't had a problem (i usually leave the phone inside the center console though)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HF0YGCK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
If your S8+ isn't charging with that cable it maybe be a very cheap out of spec cable so the phone won't use it, or the usb port you're plugging it into isn't providing enough power. Try charging it from a wall adapter. Otherwise I see a lot of people recommend anker usb-c cables off amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Pull-up-Resistor-Nintendo/dp/B01HF0YGCK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505378780&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=anker+cables+usb+c
I just noticed that link has a "56k Ohm Pull-up Resistor for Galaxy S8, S8+" added to the title.
This one? I was just worried about getting the right kind, I don't know if you can overcharge and damage the phone?
Anker Powerline II USB C to USB C 2.0 Cable (6ft) USB-IF Certified, Power Delivery PD Charging for Apple MacBook, Huawei Matebook, iPad Pro 2018, Chromebook, Switch, and More Type-C Devices/Laptops https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WNXY1R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BHVmDbY2E0PTT
i’m a noob at this stuff, i just got this cord and wall plug, will this be a sufficient power supply for switch? i took recommendations from you guys on here.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WNXY1R/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_HNpTAbDV3NBKC
Monoprice Dual Ports: USB Wall Charger USB-A 2.4 & USB Type-C 39-Watts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078HDB9FL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_d5pTAbPY7XMA2
For me the circled quick charge icon becomes visible when I charge with these combos:
Home
Car
I'm pretty happy with this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DFGKFM3/ and picked up this cable https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WNXY1R/ to go with it. Fast charges my Samsung Chromebook Plus (v2) and also my Note 8. If your CB is 30 watt or below, it should do a fine job. It's pretty small, doesn't take much room in a bag even though the prongs don't fold. I would guess that any PD charger that supplies at least what your old one did will work fine as well.
Anker did a survey on their community forums earlier this year gauging interest in such a product. So it is at least on their minds.
There are some serious hurtles to selling a Huawei SuperCharge compatible charger. Because of how different Huawei SuperCharge is from most other fast charging standards.
Contact Anker and add your vote for them making such a charger. But also understand the technical and marketing issues involved. It isn't as easy of a sale as you think.
How does this cord compare the $9 one you linked? Of course, I'd rather buy the $9 cord, but I'd get the $20 if there was a reason to do so. I plan to use this primarily with my Switch and Switch branded Anker PD 20000. Thanks!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JYDQ7N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;tag=androidcentral00-20&amp;ascsubtag=UUacUvbUpU6617485YYwYg
Anker is Google approved.
(If I understand your request correctly, you need a midi in/out to USB,)
I would recommend an M-Audio Midisport Uno. I've used one for years and it works great for my variety of midi devices into Logic, Ableton, Cubans....
https://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-Midisport-Portable-Interface-connection/dp/B00007JRBM
Edit: in case it wasn't clear, I am a Mac user, and have used it with OS X Sierra
I use the DDM4000 which is honestly practically free compared to mixers with about the same functionality from pioneer or denon. Keep in mind it's a Behringer so it isn't perfect, its mid range, but I've had mine on for about 3 years with heavy use and no major issues.
I wish I had more options but really bang 4 buck I have not seen anything at all like this mixer. If you find one in your price range post it and I'll let you know what I know/think about it.
oh and you'll need a MIDI interface to connect it via USB
I have used this one for years, hasn't let me down yet:
https://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-USB-Midisport-Uno-connection/dp/B00007JRBM
The drivers for this are pretty basic, so I was even able to use it to connect an old Android phone to the keytar.
NICE! I had a very similar one. I got this and used that combo as my main midi keyboard until just last year lol.
Yup. Can you grab a cheap MidiSport or Uno interface off Amazon or something? That's what I used to use back in my Ultra days.
Buy this: http://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-Midisport-Uno-MIDI-Interface/dp/B00007JRBM/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452231815&amp;sr=1-4
Your computer will most likely have higher quality sounds than your new Yamaha. This interface will allow you to use Virtual Instruments. Basically it turns your keyboard into a MIDI Controller. The other option is buy a 1/4" to 3.5mm adapter and plug it into the Line In input on your computer (if it has one). Something tells me that you'll be more happy with the Virtual Instrument sounds than the Yamaha's stock sounds though.. Cheers!
You can use your Yamaha as a controller. All you need is a midi to usb convertor like this. You can take the signal from your headphone jack and plug it straight into a mixer/pa or direct box with a cable like this.
If you want to invest a little more you can buy a midi interface. Two common ones are the maudio fast track and the focus rite scarlett. These are both pretty standard and can do what you need.
I'm not sure why but I can't reply to other comments other than this one.
This reply is directed toward where you talk about usb powered oculus rift. I learned 2 ways to power it through usb which are really easy.
The D.I.Y Route (Bottom post)
And the Lazy I can spend 5 bucks route
I know some Oculus users have paired this cable with their rifts.
Considering some laptops have been known to last 4 hours+ running movies/gameplay you could probably just run a rift off of a laptop.
I would not recommend running it out of a backpack though, because computers need to breathe. Otherwise your computer will be toast before you can say "bacon and eggs".
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MQO96U/
A bit heavier cable, should stand up better if you are going to travel around with it, I have one of these but no rift to test yet.
I'm not using USB over CAT, but I'm running just fine (and have been for about a month) with a 30 foot HDMI cable and a 32 foot USB cable. The trick is that both cables need to be 'active'.
The ones I'm using are:
http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Meter-Active-Extension-Female/dp/B004AGX4YO?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00
and
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-High-Speed-Technology-Supports-Ethernet/dp/B008D5EU6E?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00
After testing around 8 to 10 antennas (I am a licensed amature radio operator, so know a bit about antenna design and construction) for ADSB my advice would be to steer away from the coax collinear. Very very very very very few people have the equipment to accurately construct that antenna and get the claimed gain out of it.
Simpler is more accurate and thus results more gain. The fewer cuts, bends, soldering etc in the ADSB antenna, the higher gain it will have.
The best way to get max gain is just as /u/myownalias points out, use a USB extension cable. You can get amplified USB leads that will go out to 32 feet (https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Meter-Active-Extension-Female/dp/B004AGX4YO) we have used these in a few of my ASB installs and can confirm they work fine with the FA Pro sticks. Zero loss.
I'm thinking the same thing:
http://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Cable-50-FT-15/dp/B000QKKAPE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1347311929&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=hdmi+cable+50+ft
http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Meter-Active-Extension-Female/dp/B004AGX4YO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1347312041&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=usb+extension+cable+20+feet
Actually, not as bad as I thought. Here's an example of the kind you need.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AGX4YO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3HIHADV23VGU1
For USB, basically beyond 16 feet the signal starts to get too weak. The extra bit on the end amplifies the signal.
I use a 35' HDMI cable and 32' USB cable to occasionally play in the living room. My computer is in the basement directly below the living room so I drilled a discrete hole in the floor and run cables thru that. I keep the xbox 360 wireless receiver in the basement because the range is fine.
Current video card is a G1 970, but I had been using 2 6870s up until several weeks ago, and using this long HDMI cable doesn't appear to have any adverse effects.
you can always just buy another micro USB if you don't already have one lying around...
Micro-B usually refers to the Micro-B 1.0 and 2.0 connector. What you have in your picture is Micro-B 3.0, which isn't widely used. Just wanted to make sure you know the difference. It was pretty much superseded by USB-C because the Micro-B 3.0 connector is a weird shape that makes it fragile and harder to mfg.
Buy a powergen charger, I own one and its amazing. USB does NOT charge the same AC. If you see USB under battery settings you're drawing a much more limited amount of power then versus AC (plugging in a PC vs plugging in a wall). The powergen outputs much more then needed for the nexus 4, although the nexus 4 will only draw as much as needed, and make sure to get a good USB cable this one: Check this out on AMZN:
Mediabridge Hi-Speed USB 2.0 - (6 Feet) - A-Male to Micro-B Cable
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GF8TIK/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_us?ie=UTF8
Not all micro USB cables are made the same, most work well, but if you buy a 99¢ one, you're going to get what you paid for (some don't even allow AC charging).
Btw, don't worry about any power problems with high mAh chargers/AMP ones. If the nexus 4 suddenly took more power then needed, it would probably explode and that would be some pretty horrible design.
Edit: another good thing about this charger is that its universal and it will split the power amount! So if you plug in two devices it will simultaneously charge them both at AC power.
edit: yes the powergen charger is considered AC charging by the nexus 4 either single or with two devices (I use mine with either the cable that came with the nexus 4 or the one I linked to)
I've had good luck with good quality 3-6' cables. I got the same brand of 10', though, and the current suffered for it.
This, specifically, is the 6' cable that I use for most of my charging needs.
Mediabridge has been working for me for at least a year now. A slight issue is the size since it would hit my diztronic case (it's smaller than the generic amazon one), but the plastic is soft and you can easily shave a little of it away with a knife or something. I removed the equivalent of a half grain of rice, so not a lot. I think it's definitely worth it because it's a high quality cable. It's thicker and the ends are protected nicely so it should last a long time (the cable I had to replace separated near the head after a year or so, so I needed a sturdier cable)
Check out a 3DS USB charge cable, if you're able to buy one. Then you could use a computer or something.
A second post from me, a 5 port usb charging hub, $12usd.
That one is just the best selling one on Amazon, you can probably find one for cheaper. But it charges anything that normally charges off of usb; iPads, iPhones, android smartphones, PS Vitas, the Nintendo 3ds/xl and the WiiU gamepad if you can get the cables, etc. Who doesn't have a plethora of stuff that can charge off of usb these days anyways.
Save yourself the trouble and buy from Amazon. USB cable charger for the 3DS can plug on computer or USB power adapter. Only 6 bucks free shipping with Prime.
http://www.amazon.com/Gator-Crunch-Nintendo-Lifetime-Packaging/dp/B0071BJK34/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421951620&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=3DS+Xl+charger
For what it's worth, I've been using this one for 2 months now without any issues.
I'm bitching to GameStop customer support about it, but I did choose 1 day shipping in the hopes that it'll arrive in time for me to be able to trade in my current XL.
Also, why not just buy a USB charger?
But I agree, the exclusive deal is shit and they should have had an in-store pickup option to facilitate the trade.
I've been using a similar cord to this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0071BJK34/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1449052801&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=3ds+usb+charger&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31bJdcJcrxL&amp;ref=plSrch
not sure if its one you would use for racing but its the one in this link https://www.amazon.com/Pedal-Video-Control-Hands-Camera-Footswitch/dp/B0098PLPOI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498456822&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+foot+pedal
A logitech ergonomic with two side buttons should do decent as a mouse with a low budget ($20<)
VoiceAttack is $10 and headset for mic (another $10 to 20)
https://www.amazon.com/Pedal-Video-Control-Hands-Camera-Footswitch/dp/B0098PLPOI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496633145&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=foot+usb is a cheap foot pedal to try out the concept.
Personally I don't recommend eye tracking but I used freeware and a cheap webcam.
I'd just go for the mouse and voice attack/mic and see how you do with that. Then get extras. Plenty of good free or cheap games (may want to check out the gamedeals subreddit). Mind I tried different things out of saving up on minimum wage for parts and doing it as an odd hobby for new ways to play games. With these the main thing is to figure out how to best rebind your buttons.
I see quite a few options.
edit: had my right and left backwards
You could use one of these. :V
I use this for PTT when playing FPS games and by default it uses the keyboard bind "b" (disregard the price on Amazon, I paid $12 for it), otherwise in racing games I use a button on my wheel for PTT.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0098PLPOI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here ya go
It's just a 15' Monoprice active extension, as clearly shown in the video around 1:40. A Monoprice (non active) 2.0 cable is what came included in the box for me when I bought my 3'rd sensor. I recently replaced my Monoprice active extension because it was giving me issues... :/
I have this exact model of laptop (MSI GT73VR Titan Pro-202) and it's perfect for roomscale with 3 sensors. I've used mine in a 10 ft x 10 ft space before without issue. It's okay if you plug the USB 2.0 extension that comes with the 3rd sensor into one of the 3.0 ports, it'll still be recognized. I had to get 2 additional 3.0 extension cables for my front 2 sensors due to how my play area is organized and they also run fine (despite one consistently saying it has "poor tracking quality").
Sure thing fam!
USB 2.0 16 ft - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006LFL4X0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
USB 3.0 15 ft - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AA0U08M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
HDMI cable 10ft - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CRA11IU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
HDMI Repeater - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M02Z4FU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
The good news is with a repeater you can just use a regular HDMI cable and not an extension with male/female connectors. I only bought an extra cable because all the ones I had lying around were only 6ft or so and I wanted longer.
I had some crackling in the audio the first time I connected the headset with extensions but hasn't been any since then (not sure if I had/have it on 2.0 or 3.0 for the headset which would be the culprit since HDMI is only for the video portion and USB carries audio).
Like I said - all of these are working on my current setup. Motherboard is an MSI Z97-G45 Gaming with my 4790k and running a 1080 ti GPU. Monitors are on display port so am fortunately able to run this directly from the GPU's open HDMI slot.
I also use an Acer Predator Helios 300 laptop and the extensions all work with it as well so hopefully you have good results!
Before touching WinDAS, read this:
Apparently, the P1110 does have a service menu, and it's possible to adjust the G2 without goofing around with WinDAS. This text document that I downloaded tells the story:
>I fixed this problem on my P1110 last night in 2 minutes with NO need for hardware modifications or expensive Sony software. This may not work for all P1110's, but it sure cured the "too bright" problem for me.
>- Turn off monitor.
>- Hold down the center front panel "set" button. While holding this button down, swich on monitor. Continue holding the "set" button for 4 seconds, release and immediately push again.
>- A password prompt will appear on screen. Enter "7711" using the monitor front panel set and arrow keys.
>- A service mode screen will come up.
>- Maneuver to the "Gray Scale" menu.
>- Set "Brightness" to 50% and "Contrast" to 90% (these are the same controls as the normal menu).
>- Adjust the "G2" setting down to the optimal brightness. This setting controls the feedback loop for all three R-G-B electron guns in the CRT. I set mine to a value of 125, but your optimal value may differ.
>- Turn monitor off and on to exit service mode.
>- Fine tune brightness and contrast with normal controls.
>-That's it!
If this procedure does work for you, great! But if it doesn't, a serial cable will not help you - instead, you'll need something called a USB-TTL cable to connect to the monitor so you can use WinDAS to fix the G2 being through the roof.
If you have a serial cable like this, you could watch debug info as you boot, to really see what is going on.
Are you holding down the boot button while the board powers on? I've definitely seen that if something strange has happened to emmc, the board won't try to boot off the SD card any more unless the button is held.
http://www.amazon.com/JBtek%C2%AE-WINDOWS-Supported-Raspberry-Programming/dp/B00QT7LQ88/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422037508&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=console+cable+raspberry+pi
It does sound like maybe the cp2102 chip is bad. I'd bet the USB ttl adapter connected directly to the esp8266 will work. That's how I've programmed all the esp's I've used. I have a Wemos d1 mini that I'll use for testing code, since it can be sent into flashing mode via commands over USB, making it quicker and easier to fix bugs and then re-flash. I've never had to use external power when flashing, power from the USB has always been enough.
I originally used this adapter, but it stopped working and I bought this one and haven't had any problems with it. It's nice because it can do both 5v and 3.3v.
I've never heard of the RX/TX loopback test before.
It is this cable.
You can, but Remote Play won’t pick it up if you connect directly to the MacBook’s Bluetooth stack (the Windows RP app works the same way; I assume it’s because Sony is doing some weird low-level BT stuff to support low-latency audio on the controller’s headphone port).
You can buy a USB-C to micro-USB cable and connect the controller directly to your MacBook instead.
The other option is to buy a USB-A to USB-C adapter so you can plug in either the official Bluetooth dongle (which is expensive and kinda bad) or a standard USB cable.
This is a waaaayyy better bag for the Mavic Pro >> https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01MY920DU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rkP5Bb5J1012Z
Also, bought a couple of these to protect props >> https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B078WNZ6SM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AlP5BbWF31RFG
This to connect the drone directly to your phone to copy over 4K videos (for a USB-C phone, I'm sure micro USB or Lightning cables are available) >> https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00UUBRX0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.lP5Bb76PZ812
MicroSD card holder >> https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005SPQ8XK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_doP5BbAZRXNCX
Launchpad, for use on grass/dirty areas, also the Mavic takes an image of it's take off position which should mean more accurate return to home (I've not tested it yet) >> https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06XT1K51W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.oP5BbW61N41Z
I've also bought these silica pouches to put in the cases (got the same case for the Osmo too) to keep out moisture, you'd be surprised what they've picked up so far, and they're rechargeable 😀 >> https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B071DDYFNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_prP5Bb77166QV
High speed MicroSD >> https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07G3GMRYF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kvP5BbWG49M09
I used this.
Quick look on Amazon and it seems to be a thing : https://smile.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-USB-C-Braided-Jacket/dp/B00UUBRX0Y
I bought my sister one of these hubs last year for her 12" MacBook. It has power, USB A, and HDMI. No issues at all so far. I did a review of it here.
I have a few of their other products as well that I use with my Nexus 6P, and all of them haven't been an issue. This includes their braided USB A to C cables that i really like and their USB C male to female USB A adapters. All three of these feel high quality and made with aluminium.
Besides that, Anker had an issue with only one of their cables, and they were pretty quick and good about recalling it, so I would still trust their cables, which are generally pretty good quality. I also use monoprice cables and they are great. Cable Matters has a braided Male Micro USB to Male USB C cable that I personally don't own, but I've seen recommend on Reddit several times.
I haven't ever used Thunderbolt 3, so i don't have any recommendations for that.
I bought this a while back, though I've only ever tried using it to charge the GF's Moto X.
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UUBRX0Y?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00
Hi, I do have the same headset as yours, however I didn't encounter what you are experiencing.
I replaced my non braided cable with this one
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Micro-USB-6ft/dp/B012VZ7MUM
It's durable and looks nice.
http://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Micro-USB-6ft/dp/B012VZ7MUM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1456827441&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=anker+micro+usb
or
monoprice are the only cables i buy
Buy good cables like Anker. I swear by Anker's microUSB cables and they are reasonably cheap.
There are 3rd party USB-C chargers cables with magnetic, breakaway plugs. Griffin makes one. I've also seen micro and mini with data support as well.
Apple should have included and at least placed a USB-C port on each side on the Macbook. That would have made it so you just leave the magnetic connector in and choose what side to charge from while leaving one free port for accessories.
It's not coming back. But you could always swap out the cable for a magnetic C port.
https://www.amazon.ca/Griffin-BreakSafe-Magnetic-Power-GC42251/dp/B01CQTK6GU
CableCreation cables are awesome! I chatted with Benson, and although he hasn't reviewed them, he recommended them to me and I haven't looked back. Super high quality and a great price https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Braided-Charging-Macbook-Chromebook/dp/B01D175HMO/ref=lp_12698350011_1_16?srs=12698350011&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473427311&amp;sr=8-16
I needed a longer cable so I got the 10 ft usb-c to c from canle creation on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D175HMO/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdo_t1_.Kf5Ab447QDAM
This is all you need.
https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Braided-Charging-Compatible-Nintendo/dp/B01D175HMO/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=30UHT4K2I2CA8&keywords=usb+c+to+usb+c+cable+10ft&qid=1549670930&sprefix=usb+c+to+usb+c%2Caps%2C262&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
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I have been looking into it but have not decided to buy yet. I am looking at this Magnetic Connector and this 10ft USB-C Cable. Both support data transfer but at USB2 speeds. I do not know if the Quest supports USB3.
> I can also confirm the followed didn't work for me (in a PCI-E USB-C adapter or the RXT2080 USB-C):
>
>
>
> DIDN'T WORK - CableCreation USB C Cable 10ft, Braided USB-C 10ft https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D175HMO/
>
>
>
> DIDN'T WORK: AmazonBasics Double Braided Nylon USB Type-C 10ft
>
> https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CWC39TL/
Both of those are USB 2.0 cables so they were never in with a chance.
That's weird, I have no issues with USB C to USB C connections.
This is what I'm currently using:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D175HMO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Get quality cables like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Braided-Tangle-Free-Gold-Plated-Connectors/dp/B01DEMTOQ6
I am the IT guy at a Ford Dealer and we have bought these to use for demos because someone was trying to use some cheap ass cable and it wouldn't work.
These are the ones I use.
I use this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Braided-Tangle-Free-Gold-Plated-Connectors/dp/B01DEMTOQ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492811211&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=anker+micro+usb+cable
Having a long cable is pretty useful, and having a braided cable makes it pretty durable. Ignore the gold plated part, but I think this cable does its job pretty well.
i've found that charge only cables are shitty. if you have a data cable, like that came with a phone you should be able to use that. this cable has worked well for me, as well as most other anker cables.
make sure you do the two shorts very quickly. you should see the one of the LEDs blink for 8 seconds afterwards
Ostin kaksi kuukautta sitten halvat kiinalaiset bluetooth kuulokkeet ja olen tykännyt. Bassoja ei ole hirveästi(ei kehtaa kuunnella bassovoittoista musiikkia) mutta menee hyvin perus musiikin kuuntelulla https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B079GXC5RX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
15€ ei ole paha hinta näistä. Akku kestää jonkun 4-5 tuntia ja lataus microUSB:n kautta vaikka samasta mistä kännykänkin lataa.
PS. Jos amazonilta tilaa niin suosittelen kans Ankerin laturijohtoja, esim. https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01DEMTOQ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It is going to heat up a bit while charging with any version of QC. QC raises the voltage with the amperage to let your phone charge faster. Whether it uses 5, 9, or 12 volts is determined by your phone's specs and what the charger can output.
It doesn't get too hot to pick it up. It gets noticeably warm with internal temperatures reaching around 32-35C or so. Idle temperature, for comparison, is around 28C. When you pick it up, it will feel kind of warm, but not hot. Your phone can take much higher temperatures than what it experiences during charging, so you're not causing any damage.
I have personally used all of the following Benson approved USB type-C items.
Don't buy cheap-o USB type-C things right now. The cheap stuff may be using incorrect resistors and possibly damage your devices.
I have one of these lying around just in case I come across equipment with midi but not USB:
https://www.m-audio.com/products/view/midisport-1x1
It is also useful for equipment like the Korg Electribe or old drum machines without USB. It will allow you to use your keyboard as a controller for VST synths within your DAW.
However the Midisport 1x1 does not come with midi cables. So you will have to buy two midi cables. If you do not want to do that then the Midisport Uno comes with the midi cables attached:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/M-Audio-1-Out-Bus-Powered-MIDI-Interface/dp/B00007JRBM
Mine doesn't have USB out either, but I use this, maybe the interface is causing the latency.
M-Audio USB Midisport Uno | Portable 1-in/1-out MIDI Interface via USB connection (16 x 16 MIDI channels) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00007JRBM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9yokDbETHEHN3
If you're looking for a good way to connect your keyboard to your computer, I would look at the MAUDIO Uno interface. :)
I use it personally with my digital piano in FL Studio, works really good. Just can't forget about the ASIO drivers so you can actually play the thing without an insane amount of input latency. :)
http://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-Midisport-Uno-MIDI-Interface/dp/B00007JRBM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408035525&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=maudio+uno
MIDI is a pretty standard cable, so it's not that it's outdated. It's just that you need a USB converter to run it to your computer directly if you don't have a separate controller or anything of that sort.
http://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-Midisport-Uno-MIDI-Interface/dp/B00007JRBM
I use the usb / midi cable below to connect my Roland Td-9 to my Mac - works for Windows too. Not sure about Windows but on the Mac you can then use Garage Band or Logic to record the input. It's $39 and works well and does not require drivers. I use this setup with Addictive Drums, Roland pads and Roland RT10T triggers on my drums with mesh heads.
http://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-Midisport-Uno-MIDI-Interface/dp/B00007JRBM
Yes, absolutely get a MIDI to USB cable. These work great: http://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-Midisport-Uno-MIDI-Interface/dp/B00007JRBM
Then use one of the pianos in Garageband - the best part is that if you fluff a few notes, you can fix them in the piano roll in Garageband - super easy!
Nope, just a midi interface. You can get them cheap. Something like this works, it's what I used https://www.amazon.ca/M-Audio-USB-Midisport-MIDI-Interface/dp/B00007JRBM
I would not recommend that one. Read amazon reviews before buying. See the top amazon review that says "I have a Yamaha PSR keyboard and this interface does not work on it". There are a number of problems people have with that midi-usb interface.
This is the cable I use. While I don’t remember if I’ve tried it with the RB keyboard, I have gotten it to work with the Pro Guitar and a different midi keyboard. It’s worked on both Mac and PC, so it should hopefully fit your needs.
i use this one: http://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-Midisport-Uno-MIDI-Interface/dp/B00007JRBM/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451328291&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=midiman
and i have no issues.
dunno about the one you linked. i'd just be worried about support and driver updates, etc.
im sorry i dont use garageband.
Your keyboard probably has MIDI in/out already, which means all you need is a MIDI interface like this to connect it via USB.
Alternatively, the keyboard may have a USB port, in which case you don't need the adapter and should be able to plug it in and see it come up as a MIDI device.
Then you'll want to find a software instrument to play with it. There's all sorts of free VSTs available. Most of them will run by themselves as applications, but to use more than one in conjunction or do sequencing/effects you may need a DAW, as others have mentioned. The trial editions of FL Studio or Ableton Live are featured enough to start off with, or you could try a free DAW like BitWig which will have fewer limitations than the trial editions.
Well.
If you just want to grab MIDI, and you only have a keyboard with MIDI in the form of DIN connectors,, the simple, straightforward solution is to get something like the M-Audio MIDISport Uno - ($35 on Amazon) - it has one MIDI in and one out. While there certainly are cheaper noname/OEM interfaces out there, I'm going to recommend against them - whether they work at all is often down to chance more than anything else.
You could then go ahead and pick any DAC you like. That said, since you are planning on using both headphones and what I can only assume is studio monitors, an interface aimed at musicians is going to be more flexible - my Focusrite 8i6 has two separate pairs of line outs on the back, and I have the second pair connected to a dedicated headphone amp. In terms of audio quality: The DACs are very, very good, and certainly no worse than for instance an O2.
The headphone output is in many ways well-behaved: You can plug in a pair of sensitive IEMs and experience no noise or hiss, no matter how loud you want to go, but I'm not using it, because it has a somewhat significant output impedance, which doesn't jive well with all headphones, and my O2, which I got before the 8i6 is better anyway.
Even if the interface has inputs you don't require, I would still seriously consider it - ergonomically, interfaces like this are quite nice - you get a volume knob, so you don't have to reach for one in your OS of choice, you can send different mixes to headphones and monitors (put a click track or metronome on the headphones, and your main mix on the monitors). Should you have a friend come over who wants to jam with you, you have high-quality microphone and instrument inputs. Also: The 8i6 has a coax digital input, so if you have an android phone or iOS device that you want to relieve of DA conversion, you can use a cheap USB DAC / S/PDIF converter like a Fiio D3 and connect to the 8i6
TL;DR-ish: I'd just suck it up and get an audio interface for musicians. You will want a volume control for the monitors and when you consider the cost of DAC+headphone amp+pre-amp, you're going to end up paying very nearly the same price as an interface anyway, but the interface (whether it's Komplete, Focusrite or anything else) buys you future flexibility, and will keep it all in one box.
I am but it's a dc 5V 2A cable to usb i need so something like this or this i just need to know which one it is and not wonder which one
ok, so I suppose I need to check my motherboard specs. I tried plugging it in with this thing: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB2TYPEM-Barrel-Power-Cable/dp/B003MQO96U/
and it appeared to turn on.
If its 5 volts its 5 volts, doesn't matter where from. In case you're wondering, this cable exists. If its more than it wouldn't work. I know it comes with its own power supply, but that's an extra plug I have to worry about, which just adds to the mess of cables under my desk :(
Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:
Amazon Smile Link: http://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB2TYPEM-Barrel-Power-Cable/dp/B003MQO96U
|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|
|UK|www.amazon.co.uk|Macmillan|
|Spain|www.amazon.es||
|France|www.amazon.fr||
|Germany|www.amazon.de||
|Japan|www.amazon.co.jp||
|Canada|www.amazon.ca||
|Italy|www.amazon.it||
|India|www.amazon.in||
To help add charity links, please have a look at this thread.
This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.
brillient! thanks! :)
edit: so something like this I guess:
car charger
cable
Instead of trying the hack and risking a non-functional Rift, I would buy one of these: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB2TYPEM-Barrel-Power-Cable/dp/B003MQO96U I heard that it works great.
I would start by getting the correct power to the bridge. Right now, you are given the bridge twice the wattage it needs (W= V * A), so I'm not sure if the bridge is fried or not. But, to start to see if it will connect, find the correct power cord, or buy a USB to Type M barrel cord, like this: https://www.amazon.com/USB-Type-Barrel-Power-Cable/dp/B003MQO96U/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536135872&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=usb+to+5v+dc+cable
and use an Apple charger to power it. If the bridge doesn't connect after given it the right amount of power, then using the wrong power cord may have killed it.
This^
Mine runs off a USB port on my Mac mini.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003MQO96U
will this work? any normal 5V phone charger with female USB port should work right?
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Title|Turning a broken record player into a bluetooth speaker
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Description|In this video, I take my sister's broken record player, take out all the old parts, and put in the new bluetooth components. ⤶new parts list:⤶⤶female power jack: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QJAW9F4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1⤶⤶5v male power jack to usb:⤶https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MQO96U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1⤶⤶5v wall charger:⤶https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XUY0DFU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1⤶⤶aux cord (3.5mm): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078F718PM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1⤶⤶bluetooth receiver board: ⤶https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FU12QC8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1⤶⤶amplifier board: ⤶https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077MKQJW2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
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> a single cable won't cut it
Yes it will.
Since you just said you don't want to run a wire, I would suggest to ... run a wire. Onto the ceiling, down the side of the doors, and into the rooms.
Alternatively, try powerline adapters. They send data through your electrical grid. It entirely depends on how the house's electrical wiring is done if they will work well for you or not, so buy from a place that accepts returns.
Have you tried and active USB extension cable? http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Meter-Active-Extension-Female/dp/B004AGX4YO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1412608711&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=active+usb+extension+cable
I have used those with printers people want on the other side of the room and they work ok.
Re-reading this, you've got about 11 feet of cable from your antenna to your SDR.. surely there is signal loss there. Whether it's negligible, I don't know.
To greatly reduce signal loss, a setup using an active USB cable all the way out to the antenna is preferred. You can get a 10m active USB cable for $15. (You would probably still run into the issue of the cable's metal housing transferring CPU noise.) Then you plug the (shielded) SDR straight into the antenna with minimal cable.
You can go as far as you want with shielding, really... dig an underground bunker in the wilderness with a raspberry pi transmitting the data back to you over satellite internet... it's just how crazy you want to get with it.
My pleasure! Actually, thanks to the magic of Amazon, I found my active USB extensions. These are the ones I used that actually worked.
Good luck!
Plugable 10 Meter (32 Foot) USB 2.0 Active Extension Cable Type A Male to A Female https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004AGX4YO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6Iv4DbZ8B1B63
We use these at work for our USB scanning guns, $15 for a 32ft powered USB extension cable.
http://smile.amazon.com/Plugable-Meter-Active-Extension-Female/dp/B004AGX4YO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422731981&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=active+usb+extension+cable
I seem to be having some issues with my extension cables.
Tracking is sometimes good, but sometimes one of the controllers floats off and then snaps back to my hand. Other times a controller doesn't show up for a bit, but will if I press a button. When I'm playing Space Pirate Trainer the screen will sometimes shift and snap back into place. Usually when I die in SPT the game freezes and I lose video on the headset. The sound continues to work, but pulling the triggers on the controllers doesn't seem to produce any shooting sounds. Only the music continues to play.
I have this 40 ft HDMI cable
I have this 32 ft USB 2.0 cable
Does anyone have any idea what the issue may be? I assume it has something to do with the USB cable.
Thanks!
I haven't tried it with the Rift as I'm still waiting for my DK2, but just to verify: I have actually ran 50 feet of HDMI (two 25 foot cables with this coupler) from my office PC's HDMI port to my living room TV, along with this 32 foot USB 2.0 Active Extension Cable for an Xbox 360 controller with no problems.
FWIW, I'm currently using this 32' cable for one of my sensors: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AGX4YO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1. Obviously, YMMV as I've heard that the headset and sensors can be picky about which extension cables will work.
I have a 30ft HDMI and 30ft USB Repeater that works perfectly fine. The only thing to note is that I noticed packet loss on the HDMI connection, which I fixed with an HDMI repeater.
I use a standard webcam and a USB extension cable. This allows me to simply run the cord all the way from my tent to my computer. Make sure to purchase the 'active' type cables because they support devices which draw a lot of power. This cord reaches 32 feet: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AGX4YO
I then use VideoVelocity Studio to do the capturing. It has a wonderful feature that lets you specify exactly when you want the capturing to begin and end on a daily basis. This allows you to only record when the lights are on, which is beneficial for 12hr flowering and 18hr veg cycles.
Just to say, the cable is just about unrelated to the speed of charging.
The cable that came with the Nexus 7 was VERY crappy and I went through 9 before I got one that would stay in the tablet by without me sitting there holding it.
I soon got frustrated enough with the cable that I ordered a 3rd party one that charges extremely fast.
Sold here
If you are trying to charge it while you are using it then your charging speed of course would not be as fast.
Try charging at night when you are not using it, and maybe top off when you are sitting looking at facebook on it or something.
A third bit of advice is don't run slim bean. It is just not worth it.
Try running http://www.cyanogenmod.org/ and see if your battery improves.
It may be your tablet, mine charges in a 2-3 hours with the new cable.
When I had my iPhone 5, it would out charge the iPhone from 0% by almost 2 hours.
Anyway, I am happy to help you with any issues.
http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-USB-2-0-High-Speed-Gold-Plated/dp/B004GF8TIK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1393638242&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=micro+usb+cable
I have 2 of these and they're awesome.
Mediabridge USB 2.0 - Micro-USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GF8TIK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
MediaBridge is awesome, also their warranty is great, cable broke. I emailed them, they asked me to take a picture of the cord cut in half and they sent me a replacement unit free of charge.
http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-USB-2-0-High-Speed-Gold-Plated/dp/B004GF8TIK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420044656&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=6+ft+microusb+cable
Since no one gave you any suggestions I purchased these off an advice threat on /r/android. Apparently I purchased them on Jan 11 2016 and I haven't had a single one break yet, I use them to charge my phone on the go and my PS4 controller is plugged into one at my PC so I can attest that they have seen a bit of punishment. The cable seems to be thicker than your standard usb cable and the connectors are chunkier. Ankler also makes good stuff but I've had them break before. That said, these cables are cheap enough that even if and when they break I've gotten my monies worth compared to other cables I've spent more on. If your phone has fast charge I can also verify that it works properly with these cables.
Changed my life
Thanks! That's actually really interesting, did not know there are two types of wires, rather configurations. I bought these however when I plug my N7 or turbo into the computer, it won't recognize the data but will slow charge. Both phones are recognized with the OEM n7 cable. Maybe I'll recheck the cables, could be that one of the cables is just "bad" (I have 3 of them).
Thanks for your suggestion but I was trying to find just the cable itself. I saw this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0071BJK34/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=22RTSQZUTX0L3&amp;coliid=I2BN6BF9YI1G5S on Amazon and am wondering if anyone has had any experience with cables of this sort?
I just bought the this GatorCrunch cable off Amazon. Don't have it yet, so I can't report on quality. But the reviews were good and the price was right. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0071BJK34
As a general rule, it's handy to have a USB charger anyways, and go with the biggest mAh you can afford. I've got one that holds 7800 and can charge two devices at once. The 3DS has a 1300mAh capacity, so that battery charger you listed will get you about two full charges, but like any other battery the effectiveness will decrease as time goes on. As for the cable, I bought the $3 one off Amazon such as this one
by purchasing an external battery charger, you can charge up your tablet, phone, 3DS, ipod, or whatever USB-powered device you need without having to carry around too much extra equipment
You can get a generic AC to 5v DC adapter and then get this cable
http://www.amazon.com/Gator-Crunch-Nintendo-Lifetime-Packaging/dp/B0071BJK34/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419228392&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=3ds+cable
I found this was a pretty nice video.
As far as a battery pack: I personally wouldn't recommend one. They're overpriced. For around the same price you can get a USB>3DS charger cable and buy a much larger battery bank instead. This one in particular comes to mind. You can also use this for other devices, and not have to worry about the extra bulk so you can use a protective case or grip. :)
Edit: Here is a mugen power pack for comparison.
yay for gifts
Thanks for the contest!!
tell him to buy a foot pedal
TIL these exist. I might pick one up :)
http://smile.amazon.com/Computer-Video-Racing-Pedal-Switch-Controller/dp/B0098PLPOI
http://smile.amazon.com/Control-Keyboard-Action-Switch-Pedal/dp/B00B3PV47O?sa-no-redirect=1
http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Video-Game-Racing-Foot-Pedal/dp/B0098PLPOI/ref=pd_bxgy_hpc_img_y
Joystick, n52 SpeedPad, a pair of rudder pedals , and hopefully an Oculus Rift, if they're good and affordable by then.
Yeah, it still hasn't arrived. heres something like the one i got:
http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Video-Game-Racing-Foot-Pedal/dp/B0098PLPOI/ref=pd_bxgy_pc_img_y
http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Video-Game-Racing-Foot-Pedal/dp/B0098PLPOI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420421431&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=foot+pedal
I use this this bad boy: https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Pedal-Control-Camera-Footswitch/dp/B0098PLPOI/
USB foot pedal, set to be key F24, then I set F24 as my Push-to-Mute in Discord. Works great and you don't have to take your hands off your keyboard if you are in an intense game.
Try a foot pedal mouse:
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/Pedal-Video-Control-Hands-Camera-Footswitch/dp/B0098PLPOI/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=foot+pedal+mouse&qid=1555084130&s=gateway&sr=8-5
Great question! What does your budget look like? If you care most about the realism and don't mind spending some money, you probably need an e-drum kick pedal combined with a cheap drum module that can send MIDI to Paradiddle. Something like this combo: Yamaha KU100 Beaterless Silent Kick Pedal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FI2PE1U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6aXaBbP0MVH9N + http://www.ddrum.com/query?upc=819998175757. I'd say that kick pedal is on the cheaper end of e-drum pedals, so you can find ones that are more realistic if you look for them.
If you just want to be able to use your foot with a pedal as cheap as possible, you can go for a USB foot-switch, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0098PLPOI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3cXaBbRTR6SYN that costs around $10-15. These are much flimsier and they won't give you velocity information (just on/off), but you'll at least be able to use your foot.
If you have a Rock Band pedal lying around you can also have that send MIDI and use that, this cover was recorded with a Rock Band pedal: https://youtu.be/udqt3JYtc6k.
But buying all of the required stuff might be somewhere around $50 or so, and you won't get velocity information with this either. It'll just feel more like an actual kick pedal on your foot.
Just as a note, some of the prizes for the ongoing drum cover contest include USB foot pedals as well as an e-drum pedal. We haven't received a lot of submissions yet, so if you decide on submitting a VR drum cover, you'll actually have a very good chance of winning something among those options! Let me know if you have any other questions. We also have a foot pedals channel on the Paradiddle Discord for people to share what pedals they've tried. I'll keep adding new ones on there as I test more options, but feel free to join us there as well.
Yeah the headset does tilt a bit, enough to press into your face. If you take it off and just hold it in your hands you can see the side arms can rotate up and down, maybe like 10 degrees or so, which in turn changes the angle of the display part. On me this shift is enough to almost close the nose gap.
I use 2x 5m active USB 3.0 extenders that look like the Monoprice / CableCreations ones (a lot of people gave them good reviews on here), but they're generic branded so cheaper and would be the same components, as a few companies just rebrand them:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AA0U08M
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179MXKU8
I have 4 sensors, each mounted on top of 7'6" DIY stands made out of cheap 5'9" Ikea floor lamps..2 lamps per stand, each in it's own corner. The 8' long stock cables of the sensors only have a few inches worth left over when mounted on the stands, so extensions are a must no matter where you position them. I use the 'Monoprice 15-Feet USB 3.0 Extension Cables' from Amazon, with the sensor in the far corner needing 2 cables to reach the stand. This gives me a 10'x10' area, with an actual playspace of 7'x7'. I also shelled out for a Startech 4 port USB3.0 PCI card recommended on the Oculus blog. The sensors on USB3.0 use a lot of power, so you'll need to connect either a SATA power adapter or a molex power adapter to the PCI card...if you go that route. I haven't had any issues whatsoever, completely glitch free. I used the Sensor Bounds app in Oculus to make sure the sensor beams covered my play area high enough, as well as covering the corners closest to the stands. The beams aren't 90 degrees, so the higher the top of the beam, the less the corner gets covered by the lower part of the beam. It takes a few minutes, but it helps to completely cover the entire play area.
&#x200B;
Btw...the best part of my DIY stands...they only take up 10" squared. Tripods are at least 2' squared. I considered microphone stands, but they only extend 5' or so. Nowhere near tall enough.
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-15-Feet-Female-Active-Extension/dp/B00AA0U08M
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-SuperSpeed-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S
https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/60416176/
https://www.amazon.com/CM01-Camera-Digital-Recorder-Adapter/dp/B001GWCC4I
EDIT whoops copied the wrong links. Here are the correct ones, at 5m + 2m
Original: Sorry, actually, you're right...
it's not 5m, it's longer.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0711K9L8Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Monoprice 5-meter USB 3.0 A Male... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AA0U08M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I'm surprised as well.
Some small corrections:
It's a 15ft active USB3 extension and a 6ft USB 3.1 cable connected to a 3.1 port.
Links:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AA0U08M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7TXTPP/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_i_OOU0DbE0MQPCW
Yeah just tried your setup, both upside down with same issue. So I flipped the one back right side up on a tripod(worked for weeks) and it's still shifting. But in the process I notice that that one sensor is now registering as USB 2.0 instead of 3.0 like it has been. It's connected using an active 3.0 mono price cable.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AA0U08M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Randomly it'll say 3.0 the disconnect and reconnect and it's 2.0.
I'm using the 309a fresco drivers also.
Going to try it on one of my asmedia ports just for the hell of it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZEA2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I can vouch for that one. Buttery smooth tracking all sensors on USB 3.0.
I used this extension. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AA0U08M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I got this 5m (16.4ft) USB 3.0 monoprice active extension and it works great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AA0U08M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've got this one
Yeah, it was one of the ones on the wiki.
But this is it:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AA0U08M
The 10 foot Anker and 15 foot Monoprice Active USB 3.0 Extension work for me, so far.
Word of warning - from other comments, it doesn't appear as though this Amazon basics extension works. It needs to be an active extension. From this thread, both of these should work:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AA0U08M
Thanks! I was looking for an option with Amazon Prime to be done with it as soon as possible so I can refund my temporary router. By reading the description of the link you sent me, I was able to find this one. I hope it does the job!
JBtek WINDOWS 8 Supported Debug Cable for Raspberry Pi USB Programming USB to TTL Serial Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QT7LQ88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7IEKAbTGV81Y6
That should do the trick.
Ah, I see. OK.
By connecting this chip up, there are too many variables than I cna try to account for over the Internet.
Have you thought about getting a 2303 that's already connected to a USB connector, and broken out for you?
Here's an example one:
https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-WINDOWS-Supported-Raspberry-
Programming/dp/B00QT7LQ88
You could connect this to your Pi USB port, then the green/white, and possibly ground to the alarm device. This will be far easier than connecting your own, for now.
This would allow you to develop your software solution, and later you could tackle the hardware bit (like if you're developing hardware using that chip...)
So I bought this
USB to TTL Serial Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QT7LQ88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HZ-UBbC3CBMZQ
And followed the tutorials online and it actually wasn't that bad. It was good experience too. I had the same issue on a R8000.
Just Google R7000 USB TTL firmware
You mean on your PC you can’t bring up a terminal window? Or in your terminal window on your PC you can’t connect to the pi? Also I highly recommend working with one of these with an SBC: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QT7LQ88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_v4S.BbGFCR695
(Just don’t fuck up pos/neg or the cable dies forever :D )
this is the one I have.
Its hard to say. I don't even know what the program "regsvr32" is or does, really. All I know is that it allows your PC and WinDAS to use that missing ActiveX / msflxgrd.ocx file. And WinDAS NEEDS it.
When you are successful, you'll get this message:
http://www.piclist.com/images/com/geocities/www/gregua/windas/flxinstall.png
I am terrible with syntax and it usually takes me 5 or 6 attempts of "what was that command again? what switches? etc" to do things like this. That image is reminding me. You might want to try this command at the end of my last instructions if it didn't work.
I had said
&#x200B;
>Now you are in C:\Windows\System32\ and all of the msflxgrd.ocx files are copied, type this to register/install it.
>
>regsvr32 C:\WINDOWS\system32\msflxgrd.ocx
&#x200B;
try this instead
&#x200B;
>Now you are in C:\Windows\System32\ and all of the msflxgrd.ocx files are copied, type this to register/install it.
>
>C:\Windows\System32\regsvr32 C:\Windows\System32\msflxgrd.ocx
I am 90 days removed from the time I sat down and did this, but I'm am almost certain that this is what you are missing from the install process. WinDAS is an outdated tech relic for monitors built in 1999, but it works on a moden OS with its dependencies in place.
You know what the COM port is for matching USB port. You know that the 5V Power Lead is RED and the Ground is the BLACK lead. You've tried switching RX and TX leads because they connect to their opposites and not RX-to-RX and TX-to-TX. You've Read the labels on the monitors board, to know what pin is what.
You're so close. WinDAS is just a pain to install and the instructions are sketchy and it seems that no one curates a real fix for it.
When WinDAS is working, it will show no errors and will allow you to select your Model Number from a list (F2).
Good luck. I really don't have much more.
EDIT: Then again, who knows. Maybe you really do get what you paid for. But my $7 choice from an equally sketchy Amazon seller is questionable too.
https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-WINDOWS-Supported-Raspberry-Programming/dp/B00QT7LQ88/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1546722499&sr=1-7&keywords=PL2303
Maybe it is what you need. I can't say.
Would this TTL adapter work? https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-WINDOWS-Supported-Raspberry-Programming/dp/B00QT7LQ88/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+to+ttl&qid=1555471545&s=gateway&sr=8-3
I suggest you use a Setrial cable to connect to your Pi. If you have your laptop close physically to the RPi then this is an easy and cheap way to solve the issue.
I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QT7LQ88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WNrhyb1551NBK
About SSH:
When you said you can SSH out of your Pi, did you mean out to another device in the same network?
Have you tried changing the SSH port?
It's possible you may be able to fix it by re-flashing the firmware using a USB to TTL Serial cable.
Similar to this:
https://www.myopenrouter.com/article/how-debrick-your-netgear-wnr3500l-using-usb-ttl-cable-windows
I ordered an Orange Pi PC without the power supply, and then couldn't find one with a plug that fit. So I ordered something from somewhere I don't remember, I think the Amazon item mentioned here: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045SE9XC Anyway, I had a 5V2A power supply with the correct plug, and I was fine, right?
Well, no. I loaded five or six different images onto my SD card, all the lights worked, and I never got anything to show on HDMI or on Ethernet. I started to wonder about all those reports of "dead" boards. Finally I ordered this serial to USB adapter:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QT7LQ88?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
In a few minutes I was watching my Orange Pi PC boot and realized it hung at a different point with each boot. I suspected the power supply in causing this kind of non-determinism, so I cut off the good plug and soldered it to another power supply. That plug had really thin wires, and that never worked reliably for me. I think putting 2A through that plug is overloading the design of the typical wires. Eventually I visited a local electronic parts shop and discovered their big selection of different sized plugs. So I took a new bare plug and wired up a power supply, and I was able to boot reliably now. Works like a charm, beautiful HD display on my TV, etc.
Now I was interested in a non-DIY power supply, and I didn't trust random ones I got on the web, so I ordered the "official" Orange Pi PC power supply from AliExpress, and waited. 28 days later it finally showed up, and works well. It only cost $3.52 but the wait is a killer. The part number is HN-528i. This part is sold all over, multiple listings on eBay, some from US sources.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;_sacat=0&amp;_nkw=HN-528i&amp;_sop=15
Oddly enough, the pictures show two shapes for the adapter, a smooth case and a rippled case. The one I got from AliExpress is the smooth case. Probably doesn't matter, fingers crossed.
I would recommend everyone buy the serial to USB cable, just to have for this and other projects. I wasted several hours because I didn't have it. If you value your time at all, it is well worth it.
Update: I ordered an HN-528i (compatible) from eBay and it arrived with a plug too small. The vendor claims that they mentioned "for Android tablet" in the description, so that has a different sized plug. This item may be a complete screwup where you cannot order by part number alone. Sigh.
I had the same issue before with that router, I bought this cable and didn't have to deconstruct. This cable worked perfect for me. Youll just need the prolific driver. It arrived in 2 days with prime.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QT7LQ88/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
So you can see here the rpi pins, the UART0 TX is the transmitter pin and the UART0 RX is the receiver one. And this is a TTL to USB converter. You plug the converter on the rpi pins, the usb on the computer, use a terminal emulation app like hyperterm or putty and voila, you have a console! You can even see the rpi's boot.
the one I ordered only has 3.3, doesnt do 5, I should be good, still waiting for tomorrow
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QT7LQ88/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cable Matters Type C (USB-C) to Micro B (Micro USB) Cable with Braided Jacket 3.3 Feet /1m in Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UUBRX0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FeAgzbP42699V
Three feet short enough for you?
If your Keybard, like mine, works off Micro-USB then you can make this much cleaner by using something like this.
Are you upgrading all your chargers to Type C as well? If so, you could just use a cable that does the job
They will have to protrude a decent amount, although I honestly have a difficult time finding many cables that "downgrade" USB types from C to B. I did see a couple though. Realistically, there's simply no way to nest the two inside each other, so there has to be space for the ports and the connections. The simplest solution would to keep some micro-b cables handy or just use wireless charging exclusively (my preferred method).
After all, USB-C ubiquity is still a little ways off, so chances are you will need some legacy cables for a little while regardless. If you absolutely have to have the adapters, why not just keep them on the cables and take them off when you need the cable for another purpose?
I've tried these 2. Both claim to support data.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UUBRX0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_OC7DzbBE4AK68
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012C531S8/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_cG7DzbK02165N
Max is the DEV for poweramp, im using fiio k1 with http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-USB-C-Braided-Jacket/dp/B00UUBRX0Y/ref=sr_1_1?srs=13705622011&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458758733&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+c+to+micro and it works fine
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Micro-Braided-Jacket/dp/B00UUBRX0Y/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537155720&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=usb+c+to+micro+usb
Had the same issue on my macbook pro TB 2017 last month. I ended up getting this
Amazon Type C to Micro
Problems seemed to have fixed it self. Not sure if this is the problem but maybe it has to do something with the adapter. Alternitivly have you tried updating it from the DJI Go app connected to the radio?
That's exactly my point... Apple has been heavily pushing for a lot more power available to mobile users and the industry has largely dragged its feet uninterested in offering more power to mobile. Where the industry is finally going is going to be revolutionary for mobile users and that is heavily driven by Apple pushing hard on USB-C and Thunderbolt 3.
It is important to understand that USB-C isn't a flavor and instead is a USB connector specification that will likely become the single connector for all devices. Especially since USB-C supports "alt modes" that allow every major standard to be natively supported on the connector (such as HDMI, DisplayPort, USB, etc). And now that Thunderbolt 3 will be folded into USB with USB4 the industry will universally be able to move toward desktop class power on mobile devices. eGPUs is just the first taste of where this stuff can, and will go.
You can buy USB-C cables and skip dongles altogether, for instance...
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Micro-Braided-Jacket/dp/B00UUBRX0Y/ref=sr_1_3
I think people make far too big a deal about "dongles" honestly. But people always complain about any change at all. The same was done when USB was new and everyone complained about needing to buy USB cables and USB cards for their PC when PS/2, Serial, and Parallel "worked fine". People complained when USB went from Mini to Micro-A to Micro-B or why they needed special USB-B connectors for printers and scanners... People hate change.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_hardware#Connectors
I am happy we're finally settling on one connector...
I skipped the converter (had the same problem) and just picked one of these up. keep it in my gear bag and it works great. Works great to connect my Eachine ROTG01 to my new phone as well for a cheap monitor.
Would these be good?
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Micro-USB-6ft/dp/B012VZ7MUM/ref=sr_1_2?s=wireless&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465700172&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=anker+micro+usb+cable
https://www.amazon.com/iFlash-Charger-Adapter-Support-BlackBerry/dp/B00C48CHLG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465700731&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=3A+phone+charger
I am not wanting to get an external battery, because I do not plan to be using my Gear VR away from an outlet anyways, and batteries tend to be kinda pricey.
> You can use any USB A C connector that supports quick charge. Ignore all the controversy about people saying "USB type C doesn't support quick charge"
A lot of people had concerns about USB C not supporting QC.
> No, most phones use USB 2 type C. USB 3 only has faster data transfer speeds. However, the port matters. USB 2 delivers only 500mA, USB 3 delivers more.
When charging from a computer port, USB 3 delivers higher mA than USB 2, meaning faster charging speeds. The main reason to get USB 3 over USB 2 is for the faster data transfer speeds.
&nbsp;
Anyway, don't get thrown off by too much information.
I recommend:
For your 2-3m cable: http://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Micro-USB-6ft/dp/B012VZ7MUM/ref=sr_1_3?s=wireless&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463063867&amp;sr=1-3
Car charger: http://www.amazon.com/Charge-Anker-Charger-PowerDrive-PowerIQ/dp/B01A4ZGLZ8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463063963&amp;sr=8-2
Data transfer cables: http://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Durable-5-Pack-Macbook-ChromeBook/dp/B01B634WNK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463064071&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=usb+c&amp;psc=1
Anker PowerLine Micro USB (6ft) - Durable Charging Cable, with Aramid Fiber and 10000+ Bend Lifespan for Samsung, Nexus, LG, Motorola, Android Smartphones and More (Gray) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012VZ7MUM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.mA7xbKQ28JK8
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Micro-USB-6ft/dp/B012VZ7MUM
Not sure where you are looking, but they are $6.50 for U.S. buyers. And FWIW, you don't need "Samsung phone compatibility" for USB cables. USB is a standard, all USB cables work with all devices that use a particular USB connector.
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Powerline-Micro-USB-Smartphones/dp/B012VZ7MUM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539108556&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=anker+powerline+micro+usb+-
Something like this then?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VU7PEQC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Also tried this, which I already owned, but it was a no go. On top of the other cables mentioned.
Edit: I just tried the cheapo white cable that worked shittily with the Adaptive charger (5-6 hour charge times), with the Ankers. It says Fast Charging is enabled. From 0 to 100% it says roughly 2 hours. Weirdest thing is the Amps coming in is less than the others. Far less. Like 100-200 Amps. It says 31 minutes from 74% to 100%. However, it's been at 31 minutes for like 2-3 minutes now, so I think it's borked.
I guess my other USB cables AREN'T good enough for fast charge and need a new one. Got any ideas that won't break the bank?
I plugged in the first one I linked and this time it said fast charging. Appears to be around 800 to 1020 mA. The non-fast charge was about 800. I mean it's better sure by like 15-20%. I can u actually use it now and have it charge. as well, which I couldn't before.
Trying to find results on google for how fast quick charge 2.0 for a S7 is. Well it seemed to be doing well. Now even with this cable it's at like 700-800. No more hitting 1020 peaks. Sigh. Looking at it now it's down to 500-600. What the heck. It was twice as fast when it started going. 2 hours wouldn't have been a bad charge time...cable is fine, wonder what happened.
Alright, so most cables should fit through that plastic tunnel, but since you say none of yours does ill recommend this:
Anker Micro usb type a cable (amazon) -- This cable is really good, i have used it for a long time now, it charges real fast and has a really strong and reliable connector. The exact dimensions of the plastic on the connector part are: W: 10.3mm (0.4055118 inches) H: 7mm (0.275591 inches)
This one should fit perfectly for you.
Anker also gets my vote! I have purchased many items from them since 2014, with no complaints!
You can find Anker products on Amazon.com: Regular Cable Braided Cable
or Amazon.ca: Regular Cable Braided Cable
These will solve your problems: Anker PowerLine Micro USB (6ft) - The World's Fastest, Most Durable Charging Cable, with Kevlar Fiber and 10000+ Bend Lifespan for Samsung, Nexus, LG, Motorola, Android Smartphones and More (Gray) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012VZ7MUM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_7QQ9wb02CTCQC
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Micro-USB-6ft/dp/B012VZ7MUM
So it's just a MicroUSB cable you're looking for? https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Micro-USB-6ft/dp/B012VZ7MUM/
Yup, bad USB cable. Buy a nice one like this one:
http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B012VZ7MUM
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Powerline-Micro-USB-Smartphones/dp/B012VZ7MUM/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=anker+micro+usb+cable&amp;qid=1572018867&amp;sr=8-4
This one worked for me
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019Q4TJZC/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?qid=1463238026&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Anker
This one in particular is what I bought, 6 feet long.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019Q6F9F4/ref=mp_s_a_1_52?qid=1463237887&amp;sr=8-52&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=Anker
This one is a 10 foot version of the same cable.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B012VZ7MUM/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1463238133&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=Anker+USB
And this one is a slightly cheaper version, still very nice though. I was using this style for awhile before I gave them away to friends and picked up the nylon braided ones.
Thanks for spelling it out for me.. That makes much more sense to me now.
Any reasons for braided vs shielded? I just bought Anker Micro USB cables
So if those work I would only need the breakout board at this point
Yeah, I was using my wireless headphones charger to charge my phone and it was ridiculous how fast it would drain while I used it. I bought this on reccomendations I found in this sub and it's awesome. Charges so quickly, even when I'm using it. Plus it's really durable so I can use it while I'm charging and don't have to worry about kinks in the line, which is what killed my OEM charger.
I bought this one https://www.amazon.com/Griffin-BreakSafe-Magnetic-Breakaway-MacBooks/dp/B01CQTK6GU and love it, but i got it when it was on prime sale for $20.
It's definitely worth it though. The 2016 Macbook i'm afraid to use the included cable with because it's really rigid and does not pull out easily. Theres also weight on the connector when it's in your lap, so the breakaway cable is a good investment. The magnets are strong enough not to fall off for no reason, and it charges at the same rate as a regular cord.
There are slimmer ones, but this was the first Amazon link, just to show proof of concept. The slimmer ones can get a little more expensive
https://www.amazon.com/Griffin-BreakSafe-Magnetic-Breakaway-Chromebook/dp/B01CQTK6GU
Edit: not USB C but the same tech
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B072DTN7CR?psc=1
Edit 2: slim USB C
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XV12ZBG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495564324&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=magnetic+usb+c&amp;psc=1
Like this one only to have a slicker magnetic at the end... + cheaper.. So i can plug it in in the original wallplug.
> Part of it sticks out from the body of the computer
Looks like a regular cable to me
> You lose one of your USB-c ports to power
Companies are already designing power + data adapters. As USB-C becomes more ubiquitous there will certainly be more options.
The alternative is a proprietary port w/ MagSafe but lacking any and all accessories that benefit from TB3 and USB-C. I'd much rather have a useful port with compatible accessories than a MagSafe port that lacks third-party support.
Wow, so much negativity and whining here. If you're scared of breaking the MacBook, so am I! I'm with you here. But instead of whining, let's see what can be done to FIX SHIT:
First, get Griffin's BreakSafe cable. Yes, it's got design issues but you need something right now.
Alternative is the MagNeo cable that's available for pre-order.
Then, get a decent hardshell. I've got the Fintie, and it's pretty good. 13" and 15" versions are available.
And finally, check your insurance. Creditcard might offer protection, plus your contents insurance may cover it (but make sure and call to see whether it actually covers).
There are third party cables that do it.
>I'm not sure anyone needs an iPad now.
Are you kidding? Apple sells three times as many iPads to business as they do to individuals. Clearly there is a need.
> it's a bigger phone.
It's NOT a phone. It doesn't make/take calls like a phone.
>I'm sure it's nice to have a large form factor phone if you want that sort of thing
You seem extremely unclear on what a phone is, and what a tablet is, and the difference between them.
>Anyone who needs to do things will go for a Surface nowadays,
They're different devices with entirely different use cases.
>because they're way more capable.
That's a matter of opinion. Personally, I don't need a device that harvests all my information and is riddled with malware.
>USB-C, it is the future. It's not the present though
With that attitude, we'd all still be using RS-232.
>Apple should stop fucking everyone over by trying to force only USB-C.
Are you completely fucking delusional? ZERO people are being "fucked over". ZERO people are being FORCED to buy this machine. It's a PERSONAL CHOICE. Don't like it? Don't buy it.
>Four C's and one A on the new Pro would've went a long way.
Hasn't anyone changed your diaper yet? They didn't get OVER it already. Go buy something else.
>Keeping the SD reader and MagSafe would've been a nice touch.
So would have been keeping the 68000, the PowerPC, OS9 compatibility, Floppies, ADB, and monochrome screens. Then it would have had all the "backwards compatibility" of Windows on a PC.
>Even in the future, professional cameras will have cards on them
Oh yeah? What kind? Lots of 'pro' cameras take CF cards and some take Memory Sticks. Don't hear much whining about those people ALWAYS being left out.
In the near future, professional and consumer cameras alike will come with USB-C, making the need for a card slot COMPLETELY unnecessary.
>which will need to be swapped out to continue recording.
Absolutely NOTHING Apple did makes it difficult to swap memory cards. Any real pro will have DOZENS on hand. You swap the card and keep shooting. You're suggesting that swapping involved offloading the filled card, which is NOT the case.
> In the professional world there's not time to plug in the camera and pull 64GB of data off when it gets full.
Then DON'T. Swap your card and KEEP SHOOTING. You offload once the gig is over.
Besides, the chances of a pro photographer filling a 64GB card is next to nil. Even if a pro photographer were shooting raw, full frame (24MP), 14-bit color, a 64GB card would hold TWELVE HUNDRED pictures!
If you shoot 1200 pictures at a wedding, you're likely an incompetent spastic who doesn't know how to operate their camera.
With 256GB cards being super cheap, the scenario you're creating is complete bullshit.
>USB-C also does not solve the problem of the power cord being ripped out of the machine, something MagSafe did a brilliant job with.
And the the market place provided a solution a full YEAR before this laptop was introduced.
No doubt more will hit the market to cater to all the whiney babies who won't STFU about this.
>USB-C isn't even the present for iPhones.
Neither is USB-A, USB-B, mini-USB or micro-USB. It has ALWAYS required the appropriate cable, and DOZENS of other manufacturers have done the same in the past. Where is the outrage for them?
>You need an adapter to plug a brand new iPhone into a brand new MacBook Pro. That's just dumb.
No, what's dumb is that someone who doesn't own these things, and has NO intention of buying this things, spend EVERY waking moment bitching and moaning about it online.
>They should've gone USB-C on the iPhone if they were going to push it so hard on their laptops.
So the iPhone should have had it first? Then you'd be here bitching, pissing, and moaning about the phones having USB-C, but not the laptops. The fact is, you don't really care about any of this, you just want to shit on Apple. You're a concern troll. Your whole existence is tied up in being upset about things that have ZERO bearing on your life. Doesn't it ever get old?
>But it's not the only thing people have to use yet
Which is why there are products to bridge the gap, just as there ALWAYS have been.
>and it's not going to be a year down the line either.
Bullshit. USB-C is coming, and MUCH sooner than you think.
>They should have put just one USB-A port on there
To keep the trolls at bay? Might have been worth it.
>to at least nod to the professionals and say "yes we realize you still exist and need your computer to do things today."
That's the thing. PROFESSIONALS do what's necessary to get the job done. They don't blink over a couple of cables or adaptors that get the job done. They're aware of their situation, and what they need. They don't blindly upgrade without a cost or performance benefit, so it's REALLY unlikely that's they're going to be caught off guard with these new ports.
https://www.amazon.com/Griffin-BreakSafe-Breakaway-Chromebook-replacement/dp/B01CQTK6GU
This neither uses the apple magsafe charger, nor is it "nearly flush". It's a start, and would certainly save the computer if you trip over the cord, but I don't like it sticking 1cm out the side of the computer like that.
https://www.amazon.com/Griffin-BreakSafe-Breakaway-Chromebook-replacement/dp/B01CQTK6GU
I hope apple changes the charger to something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CQTK6GU/
https://griffintechnology.com/us/breaksafe-magnetic-usb-c-power-cable
https://amzn.com/B01CQTK6GU
Check out Benson's reviews of USB C cables. I couldn't believe there were so many bad cables out there.
https://plus.google.com/collection/s0Inv
BTW I bought a CableCreations 10FT cable from Amazon for $8.88 and it works great. Benson approved.
Type USB C-C Cable, CableCreation 10ft Braided USB 2.0 Type C (USB-C) to Type C Data Charging Cable(3A) for Apple New Macbook, Nintendo Switch, Chromebook Pixel, Nexus 5X/ 6P, etc (Space Gray) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D175HMO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MQRaAbY97440V
The Essential phone is very, very picky about cables and chargers. The cable they included in the box is a very low quality cable and should be replaced for purposes besides charging. If you bought during an eBay special, you may have an unusually low quality charger.
For optimal (fast) charging, you want a high quality USB-PD rated USB wall (or car) charger supporting USB-C to USB-C charging.
Something like this, this, or this along with a USB type C to type C cable.
Once I switched to doing it this way, my phone started to charge rapidly every time.
Here is one from Amazon
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Braided-Charging-Compatible-Nintendo/dp/B01D175HMO/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=10+foot+usb+c+to+usb+c+cord&qid=1558753346&s=gateway&sr=8-6
I've got this one and it's a fucking tank. Can't see it breaking for a long long time.
Hi! So I think I can bring some insight to your post. I assume this will be the same, however when I bought my Pixel XL 2, it came with a female USB-A to male USB-C adapter. This adapter can be used on a longer USB-A cable so that you have that capability of charging and also plugging the phone into your car/radio if applicable.
Secondly, I wouldn't recommend using anything USBA>USBC simply because you will not be experiencing the fast charge through that type of cable. Fast charge is only supported only with a USBC cable and proper power brick.
Here is the car charger I use. I specifically chose this because I'm able to power my police radar detector via USBA and charge my phone via USBC: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E764DXM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
And here is a 10ft USBC cable that I bought because it was rated as a "safe" cable back when the USBC standard was rolling out with Nexus 6Ps and such: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D175HMO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have this and absolutely love it but it is 3a
What cables are you using? Both OEM cables, this C-C cable and this A-C all work with mine.
I got 2 of these, one for work and one for next to my bed. Both work great & work with both the default and 3rd party USB-PD rapid chargers.
I've not found an alternate charger yet - but disgusted that they wanted $20 for what would end up being a frayed crappy Apple cable after a year - I bought this USB-C cable instead and it works beautifully. It's nice and long so I don't miss the mains cable that Apple screwed us over as well.
I just ordered the following cables/adapters on Amazon hoping that I can plug this straight into my RTX 2080 and have a cable length over 5 meters.... Not sure if it will work, but I'll find out tomorrow.
UGREEN USB C to USB C Cable Right Angle 90 Degree Type C 60W PD Fast Charging Compatible for Google Pixel 3 2 XL, Samsung Galaxy Note 10 S9 S8 S10, MacBook Air, iPad Pro 2018, Nintendo Switch (6FT) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PLYZ7J3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Onvian USB Type C Extension Cable (2FT/0.6M), Thunderbolt 3 USB 3.1 Type-C Male to Female Fast Charging 4K HD Video Audio Transfer Data Sync Extend Cord - 10Gbps - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZNW7W42/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
CableCreation USB C Cable 10ft, Braided USB C to USB C Fast Charging Cable (60W/ 3A), Data Sync up to 480Mbps(Space Gray), Compatible with Macbook(Pro), Galaxy S10/S9/S9+, Pixel XL 2XL, etc. - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D175HMO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Aukey 12 watt AC Adapter
And 2 pack of 6ft cables
You could probably go with an AC adapter with a bit more wattage, but don't exceed 20 watts of output. That's the danger zone for un-official chargers.
Alternatively you could just get a Extension cable and stick a
male to female adapteron one end. For whatever reason they don't make male to female cables over ~4fthttps://amzn.com/B01D175HMO
That one works great for charging for my nexus and pixel. No issues. I havent tested the speed for data transfer. I use it with the Google power plug.
I think Anker is one of the best as far as cables an chargers go. I don't use a braided cable, but these look good.
You can use any Micro USB cable/car charger to charge your phone, but I'd recommend getting something like this to take advantage of the phone's quick charge capabilities. I have one in the car and it's great.
I would suggest: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DEMTOQ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_v4ECxbT7CKJKV
combined with these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AHKYIRS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_j2ECxbCC4957V
Notice, this plugs into a regular USB DAC adapter, do you would need a different adapter than the one it came with.
I currently use this combo with my car charger.
Those are good:
https://www.amazon.de/Anker-Ladekabel-Vergoldeten-Steckern-Smartphones/dp/B01DEMTOQ6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1536587177&sr=8-2&keywords=micro+USB+Anker
https://www.amazon.de/Micro-Kabel-Nylon-2-St%C3%BCck-Hochgeschwindigkeit-Grau/dp/B01GJC4WRO/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536586978&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=micro+USB&psc=1
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Those are rather bad or not that long lasting:
https://www.amazon.de/AmazonBasics-7A82V4-Verbindungskabel-Stecker-Micro-USB-B-Stecker/dp/B0711PVX6Z/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1536587269&sr=8-9&keywords=micro+USB
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DEMTOQ6
Never buy another cord and never have one too short again.
I have one that's lasted me 3 years now and still good as new. Whereas my family keeps replacing their dollar store ones every month
Good to know, thank you. I've read the descriptions and narrowed it down to these two options, and both seem to be built for carrying quick charge current. Thanks for responding.
[2-Pack] Anker 6ft Nylon Braided Tangle-Free Micro USB Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DEMTOQ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_97ynzbABW8X2A
[2 Packs] iXCC 6 Feet Long Micro USB to USB 2.0 Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVAO8ZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Paznzb8KBEMDZ
I've been very satisfied with the quality of these braided Anker cables. I've had them for nearly a year and their good as new, fitting into the controller snuggly.
Have you ever used quality cables? I mean sure they’ll eventually break but if you use them well they should last at least 4-6 months if not more.
This cable is pretty good for example.
Depends on what you like. I use Anker or Amazon Basics ones because they are cheap and reliable. They are not overly flexible, but I just ran the cable through the Velcro on the side strap so I don't notice.
I have experienced similar issues with my P2XL. Bought another cable from Amazon and never had that issue after.
Thx :) I bought this cable --> https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01DEMTOQ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and coiled it with a hair dryer and a wooden stick with 10mm diameter (those are about 1€ at the local hardware stores).
I found this simple guide --> https://geekhack.org/index.php?PHPSESSID=4ckthvrl09ct4vegc7rmgaihfaj23en4&topic=82202.0
(btw, using zip ties instead of tape works ways better to get a tight tension for coiling)
It's just a USB-C to USB-C cablenisnt it?
Anker Powerline II USB-C to USB-C 3.1 Gen 2 Cable (3ft) with Power Delivery, for Apple MacBook, Huawei Matebook, iPad Pro 2018, Chromebook, Pixel, Switch, and More Type-C Devices/Laptops https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072JYDQ7N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-A0sDbB9JKDGV
Anker Powerline USB-C to USB-C 2.0 Cable(6 ft), Power Delivery PD Charging for Apple MacBook, Huawei Matebook, iPad Pro 2018, Chromebook, Pixel, Switch, and More Type-C Devices/Laptops https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EMINIWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pB0sDbMEMDFS6
Anker Powerline USB-C to USB-C 3.1 Gen 1 Cable (3ft) with Power Delivery for USB Type-C Devices Including Galaxy S8, S8+, S9, S10, iPad Pro 2018, Google Pixel, Huawei Matebook, MacBook and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EMIIFCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DA0sDbD97NX8M
AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB Type-C 2.0 Charger Cable - 3 Feet (0.9 Meters) - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKZ0V6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zz0sDbCAZWY44
You have to use a USB PowerDelivery charger, as this phone doesn't have QuickCharge technology. I'd recommend these (none are affiliate) cables car charger and I typically use the stock charger brick, but I believe that this one should work, but I haven't used it.
Anker PowerLine USB-C to USB-C 2.0 Cable (6ft) for USB Type-C Devices Including Samsung Galaxy S8, S8+, the new MacBook, Nintendo Switch, Google Pixel, Nexus 6P, LG V20 G5 and More https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01EMINIWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mMpEzbRHVA060
Will this do PD?
Yes, I use a usb cable from Anker, not sure if it's available outside of the UK, but works great!
My X1 has Thunderbolt ports as well, but PD standard requires minimum USB 2.0 cables, so you can go cheap if you're just going to charge with the cable. I'm using the Anker Powerline USB2.0 C-to-C 6ft cable with no issues.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EMINIWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Jmz4Cb5A4DJ66
Actually a cool thing I usually carry is a portable Thunderbolt monitor so I can dual-monitor on the go, so I usually have one of my C ports for charging and one cable to the monitor for power & display, and a Bluetooth mouse and I'm set anywhere I go.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y8SSQG5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Nnz4CbSKPFNFJ
Sorry for any formatting issues, on mobile.
So I purchased these three things, and was wondering if anybody has any reason to suspect they will not work well to charge quickly, or are just dangerous to use to begin with. I've done a fair amount of research into this but just want to make sure that I'm not missing any potential problems, thank you guys!
Battery:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KNJQZ4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4blSybA85462Y
Cable:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EMINIWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SyiSyb1JKXAC4
AC Adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CZLUIK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8yiSybZJ67RW0
There's lots of 2.0 type-c cables, like this one. They're cheaper to make, and just as good if you're just using it to plug into a charger, and not for transferring data.
BEST is subjective, but recommended battery would be USB-PD (Power Delivery), as there has been tests on the speed of charging while playing comparing bricks that were USB-A vs USB-C vs USB-PD. Also you need an "Benson-approved" USB-C to USB-C cable (to avoid damaging your battery &/or Switch).
This one has good reviews & it's PD:
https://www.amazon.com/Portable-RAVPower-26800mAh-Recharged-Included/dp/B01LRQDAEI/
This cable is Benson-approved:
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Including-Nintendo-ChromeBook/dp/B01EMINIWW/
Just ordered this cable, I should be good to go right? I’m using it with a USB 3.1 port on my 1070 laptop
Anker Powerline USB-C to USB-C 2.0 Cable(6 ft), Power Delivery PD Charging for Apple MacBook, Huawei Matebook, iPad Pro 2018, Chromebook, Pixel, Switch, and More Type-C Devices/Laptops https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EMINIWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ArW0DbSBKA83K
I've had very good experiences with Anker products: a Macbook battery, a battery pack and a micro USB cable. They have good support also, the Macbook battery I listed failed on me twice and was replaced quickly both times, it's been good for a year now.
I hate promoting only one option but, in your case, it looks like a good choice.
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Devices-Including-ChromeBook/dp/B01EMINIWW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479878488&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=anker+usb+c+6ft
I think the wires inside the braided sheath torque themselves to failure. I would stay away from small diameter braided cables for usb-c(OEM cable size).
Recommend this anker USB PD for its protected neck
This is the one I use https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01EMINIWW?psc=1&amp;ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
I've seen this one here mentioned the most often. I don't have it myself though: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FQ88CHS/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I found this guy on youtube - Awesome set up - he has links in the disciption and I can confirm it works for me
I bougth the following things (German Amazon) and it works a charm:
C2G DisplayPort F/F Adapter (DisplayPort Cable DisplayPort female/female, black, 17 ghttps://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00IGSBFJI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
UGREEN USB Extension Cable Active 3.0 USB Extension Cable Super Speed Cable Male A to Female A with Signal Amplifier Repeater Black 10mhttps://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01FQ88CHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
YIWENTEC Fibre 8K 4K DisplayPort Cable DP 1.4 8K @ 60Hz 4K @ 144Hz High Speed 32.4 Gbps Optical Fiber Slim and Flexible DP to DP Cable 10 mhttps://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07S7Z7SR5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1- Be careful it is a one way cable ! I conected it wrong the first time at thougth it would not work :D Shame on me
Having done something similar myself, I would say DONT skimp on proper cabling solutions, when it comes to installing this stuff test your exact setup before you put anything into a wall or ceiling. I had troubles daisychaining 2x active 15’ extenders. Better was to order the ugreen 30’ active cable (Amazon link: UGREEN USB 3.0 Active... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FQ88CHS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf)
I went from constant headaches (frequent senso disconnects) to zero problems with that cable. Good luck!
I have to extend mine over 1.8m in two places (seated and roomscale 1080ti setups). The USB extension will help you, not tried that far with DisplayPort
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DisplayPort 1.8m
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https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01KRLQG2M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Works on both my setups
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USB 3.0
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1.8m Extension
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07JNXPJ9P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Oddly, only works on one of my PCs. The other gives camera issues and blackouts
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4-port Hub
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07B2HJG8P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is junk, the ports aren't even powered. Shows as USB 2.0
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Active Extension - 10m
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01FQ88CHS/ref=twister_B01MRP2CPT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I had this laying around from the CV1 and it does work. I have the 5m one coming today as this is a bit overkill
Do you think only the extension needs to be active? Or both cables? I’m quite happy with the 3m A to C cable for sim racing, it might pick up a longer cable for other games, e.g. https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Extension-Repeater-Amplifier-PlayStation/dp/B01FQ88CHS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=active%2Busb%2B3.0%2Bextension%2Bcable&amp;qid=1571746435&amp;sprefix=active%2Busb&amp;sr=8-3&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
Just to report -
https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Extension-Amplifier-PlayStation-loudspeakers/dp/B01FQ88CHS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503864769&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=usb+3.0+extension+cable+10m
This cable powered. This plugged into
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-Ultra-Slim-Adapter-Charger-Included/dp/B0192LVM86/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503864879&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=usb+3.0+anker+hub
I then have 3 x sensors and the headset plugged into this. it works..
However the hdmi wont work over the particular 10m cable i have.. hell even the 3m.. little bit more tweaking and hopefully have a 10m extension running tomorrow for rift.
OK, so I am not running my cables through the attic and a 3m extension is enough for me (https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00WHZ8NDW) costs me 8 bucks. But even such cables as you require for your setup seem to be a lot cheaper where I am (https://www.reichelt.de/USB-Kabel/DELOCK-83415/3/index.html?ACTION=3&amp;GROUPID=6104&amp;ARTICLE=138544), 10m active USB3.
For my own use, I am deducting the free games, because all of those were titles I was planning on buying before I knew they were giving them away. Of course, if you are not interested in those games it is not nearly as valuable.
What about this ? : https://www.amazon.ca/Extension-Repeater-Extender-Booster-Superspeed/dp/B01FQ88CHS/ref=sr_1_2/156-9225501-4320419?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481322879&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=usb+3+active+extension
using an active USB2 cable atm, which works fine, have also purchased this & will be testing soon:
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https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01FQ88CHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Look for a 'repeater' cable. I just bought this, and the reviews state others have used it for oculus and vive. I have to go about 30 feet from where my PC is (in a AV/Server Rack) to where I actually use that PC, a home theater where I will also occasionally be using the headset.
Then it's probably the link being funny about that cable, seems to be a bit picky with certain cables and motherboards. There is a thread somewhere on this Reddit with tested cables.
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The first cable I got also didn't work. These are the two cables I am using(confirmed by multiple people also to work together):
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B017COHTJ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01FQ88CHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Do you get sparkles in dark scenes as a result of the cable extensions? I bought a similar 25 foot optical cable and the 3.0 Active USB cable and most everything works fine except the sparkles and the Index camera. The camera looks distorted like it has a black fabric screen in front of the lenses. The cameras tests ok using WebCamTest. Have you had any other oddities that you attribute to extending the Index with your cables.
By the way, thanks for the post as it pointed me in the right direction for allowing my system to be in a different room from the playspace.
The optic cable I used was: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X4W61YP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The USB Cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FQ88CHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just did some tests today. Mutec 10m [powered] -> UGREEN 10m [not powered] -> primewire hub [powered] -> 2x Rift Sensor USB 3.0 works. I'm a bit surprised myself.
Mutec cable: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01BLPSVFS
UGREEN cable: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01FQ88CHS
PrimeWire hub: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01K7RR3W8
USB Card used for the test: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00HJZEA2S
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Anker is good: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-PowerLine-Durability-Including-Matebook-Gray/dp/B01LNA0XCU/
but Amazon's own brand is fine, particularly for £5.49: https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-Double-Braided-Type-C-Silver/dp/B07CWFNWBW
For some reason, the plain plastic cable is £6.99 on .co.uk (I bought a two-pack of these for €7 on .de a while back): https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-USB-Type-C-2-0-Cable/dp/B01GGKZ1VA/
Of the above, I have all three. Amazon's braided cable is a quality product and I'd definitely recommend it for day-to-day use. I use it to charge my laptop and my Pixel; the plain ones are 'extras' in the car or the kitchen drawer.
These are all USB 2.0 cables, so they'll be slow for moving data but will still charge as fast as any device allows.
ETA: hell, the 3m Amazon braided cable is still only £5.49. I'd get that one for sure.
Oh man, i had the same question for weeks. I decided to buy the Google Pixel charger and with no doubt in my mind is the absolutely best charger for the Switch. Get it!.
The other "problem" was the USB C cable. I ordered 2, one from Amazon Basics and one from Anker. Those are the best. I really really like the Amazon Basics cable, is the one im using with my Google Pixel. The Anker cable has better quality (well, not really. Is just sturdier) but is double the cost (I bought it so i can have one to use with my Power Bank). If you only need it for the Pixel then get the Amazon Basics cable.
Hope that helps!
According to a recent Benson Leung's test the AmazonBasics USB 2.0 C-to-C cable is an excellent replacement.
OK, let's clear up a few things here... First off, sure higher wattage in theory means faster. However, most USB PD phones will never charge faster than 18W (9V/2A) and very often they'll charge slower than that, you don't need a higher end charger unless you're gonna charge a laptop or a more demanding device.
Second, USB version spec doesn't matter at all for charging speed. The absolute fastest charge cables for 60W+ charging are often USB 2.0 because making a long one (6ft+) that's also USB 3.0 is physically impossible AFAIK, the lines used for charging differ from data lines. You just need 3A capable cables.
Those max wattage cables do require some e-markers that tell the device and charger they're good for 5A and the highest voltages, but again, you don't need that for a phone. Amazon Basics C to C cables are more than good enough for your purposes and you can have them cheap and in lengths from 6' to 6" and in black or white.
Don't overspend for charging cables (max speed data ones will run you more)... Those Amazon Basics ones run like $6-8 IIRC. Belkin, Anker, Veckle, etc do make stuff w/better strain reliefs and whatnot tho so if you're gonna beat on them shop around. If you need one for a laptop for high wattage charging the $20 Apple one is great.
Finally, there's a very simple reason that multi USB-C chargers are relatively rare... It's kind of a twofold reason, most people don't have a lot of USB-C devices and the USB-IF discourages manufacturers from rating chargers for X wattage if it can't supply it on all ports simultaneously. The gets tricky with high wattage obviously...
A lot of manufactures are still sort of misrepresenting things on that front by adding up the wattage of their USB-C and Type A port (which of course makes no sense and isn't of any use to you), but anyway. I think Aukey has a dual port car charger out but I haven't seen a review. Nathan K who's reviewed a ton of USB PD gear gave the OK to this Scosche tho.
They make a car one too, they're a little pricey IMO but there's not a lot to choose from. That being said, the OG Pixel and the 2 had an undocumented feature (not present on the 3) that allowed them to charge at 10-12W off Type A chargers with Apple-like signaling, so you could get away with a cheaper A + C charger like this for now.
Do note that the two Scosche ones whine great for phones would be pretty slow for charging something like a laptop, which is what a lot of the higher wattage chargers are geared for since USB PD is becoming common with laptops, standard on Chromebooks, etc.
Anker look good, but last time someone with tools and knowledge checked them (Nathan K or Benson Leung, I don't remember who of those two) the red braided fancy ones had too much voltage drop. I don't know if they've fixed them,
but Anker for some reason refuses to certify their stuff (chargers and cables) for USB compliance. [EDIT: uh, apparently those cables are certified, at least the gray ones in that link above.] [EDIT 2: I dug a bit deeper, and apparently Anker does certify chargers as well, I was wrong but still vouch for the Amazon cables Anker rubs me the wrong way for other reasons that are off-topic here].The Amazon cables are good, cheap, and certified. I have them in all available lengths, the longer ones are thicker, as they should be. If you only want them for charging, USB 2.0 cables are probably better cause they have fewer wires so the cables can be thinner and/or longer without increasing resistance, and they're also cheaper.
I'll probably try this one once I have a Switch: AmazonBasics USB Type-C
The top reviewer does a lot of USB-C cable testing and verified that it works with USB-C PD up to 60W which should be fine for the Switch's 18W. This cable won't work for high speed applications but I don't have any USB-C devices so I can't justify buying the more expensive USB-C 3.1 cables just for charging.
If you're talking about this Amazon Basics cable it's one of the safest ones you can buy. It's USB-IF certified and has a favorable review from Benson.
Benson is a Google engineer who would test USB-C cables for fun(?) until eventually one fried his testing equipment.
If the Switch will 'play nice' with the charger you're using is another matter, and one I haven't been able to find good enough information on. A week ago I would have sworn Anker power banks were the safest way to charge it on the go until a thread popped up saying their Anker power bank bricked their Switch.
I use
AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB Type-C 2.0 Cable - 9 Feet (2.7 Meters) - White https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01GGKZ4NU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_1REh7FoQ27eYr
And
AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB Type-C 2.0 Cable - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters) - White https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01GGKZ2SC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_5kZ61MFiRV5Pj
Exclusively for the iPad Pro 2018. Note that it is USB 2.0 limited, but fine for charging and reasonable speed data transfer.
AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB-A 2.0 Male Cable - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters) - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYN0A/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_le01Ab5FRBJHX
AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB Type-C 2.0 Cable - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters) - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKZ2SC/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_0e01AbNKJW55X
The AmazonBasics cable supports power delivery and is nine feet for $10.
So I need another USBC Cable for my OG pixel, and I was looking through the options and was planning on getting the amazon basics USBC-USBC cable (Benson Leung approved), but then I saw the updated USB 3.1 cable and wasn't sure if there was actually any benefit to it. Is this something worth shelling out double/triple the price for when I'm just using it as a charging cable?
This is what my USB-C cord looks like on each end. I see tongues on both sides, and my macbook has a female slot on it.
I was talking to the other guy about making it smaller.
Best replacement for wall charger I bought. You will need the USB C cable you can get AmazonBasics works perfectly together. Total $27.50
Anker PowerPort PD 1 USB-C Wall Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GWNYC4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JRqyCbM5VWAQV
AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB Type-C 2.0 Cable - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters) - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKZ2SC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3VqyCbDDYJWVE
I have the 6ft Amazon Basics cable and it fast charges.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-Type-C-Charger-Cable/dp/B01GGKZ2SC/ref=sxin_2_pb?keywords=usb%2Bc%2Bcable&amp;pd_rd_i=B01GGKZ4NU&amp;pd_rd_r=8e2ec4a7-020e-442f-8b68-1a8125bdd630&amp;pd_rd_w=1rFjM&amp;pd_rd_wg=ub9f1&amp;pf_rd_p=142f0711-e8a5-4008-b825-e84d92002664&amp;pf_rd_r=Y1T097SVEAZZXXXVTG4M&amp;qid=1571680444&amp;sprefix=usb%2Bc%2Bc&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
[Wall charger](usb c pd wall charger, metrans power delivery 41w fast charge pd wall charger for iphone x/8 plus/8, macbook, nintendo switch, samsung s8, note 8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077XC2C4D?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf)
[Cables](amazonbasics usb type-c to usb type-c 2.0 cable - 6 feet (1.8 meters) - white https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKZ2SC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf)
[Car charger](meagoes rapid usb pd car charger, power delivery & quick charge 3.0 enabled, with usb c to c cord for google pixel 2/xl, motorola moto x4/z2 play/forc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076H7LKVS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf)
The cables and the wall charger definitely work but I haven't had the chance to test the car charger yet. It came bundled with a C-C cable.
Edit: whoops, hyperlinks didn't work on mobile I see
C-C Benson approved
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GGKZ2SC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1#customerReviews
I just bought this wall charger and this usb C to C charging cable but I ran into an issue where it won't charge. If I use a standard usb A to C with the same charger it works, it's just super slow. Any one have this charger and a working cable or any usb C to C charger/cable combo that works? I'm looking for something to use next to my bed.
I had the same issue with my '17 Impreza. At first, it started as simply not connecting every time I started the car. Eventually the phones would reboot. I got 3' Anker Powerlines cables and the issue stopped immediately.
This is what I ordered:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HF0YGCK
Would someone reccomend these or should I look at something else from anker?
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Pull-up-Resistor-Samsung/dp/B01HF0YGCK/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538845330&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=anker+usb+c+cable&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41TVmDrqv9L&amp;ref=plSrch
You could get anker USB C charger for $15 for 3 instead. I have that and I use it for file transfers and stuff as well as backup if I ever lose my OEM charger for some reason. https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Powerline-Pull-up-Resistor-Samsung/dp/B01HF0YGCK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1543181691&sr=8-7&keywords=anker+usb+c
Got this 3-pack on Amazon. Worked fine with my Moto Z, but didn't work well with my LG G6 (then again, nothing did, LG is very sensitive or particular with their cables and adapters that I ended up not using these and boxed it). But when I got my S8, I pulled them out of storage and they worked for a little bit, then all eventually stopped working with QuickCharge adapters.
[3 Pack] Anker PowerLine USB-C to USB 3.0 Cable (3ft) with 56k Ohm Pull-up Resistor for USB Type-C Devices Including Samsung Galaxy S8 S8+, the new MacBook, Google Pixel, Nexus 6P, LG V20 G5, and More
Without knowing more about your ingest workflow it's had to say, but you might be well served with a Pegasus R6/R8 or similar. That'll give the bandwidth to be ingesting a few cards at once and be duplicating to a portable drive that can go back to editoral. The fewer volumes I have to manage the easier I find staying organized. One 30TB volume seems a lot more manageable than 6 4TB drives floating everywhere. If you go the RAID/NAS route make sure you don't go too small.
A RAID could also be easier on the AEs if the DIT cart can be connected to the SAN and ingested that way. Instead of a couple hundred Mbps you could get in the Gbps range. Remember that standard gigabit ethernet won't be the answer for high speed transfers.
I know you have three laptops for ingest, but I'd try to build the cart around one laptop copying footage. Again, fewer moving parts is easier to manage. Having a utility laptop that can tackle other tasks is often useful. If you need to make proxy files in the field look into a NAS solution instead of a RAID so you can get two, three, or more computers hitting the storage concurrently.
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On top topic of a DIT cart, put some thought into a cart. What it should have. I'd be looking for a big heavy UPS on the bottom to give the thing some stability. Maybe an APC2200? Not sure how worried you are about weight...don't use that if you're flying with it. Get your own network going on there if you have multiple computers. Also add a Thunderbolt dock and power strip on the top to give you more USB ports and power for all the travel drives that will show up. I'd connect drives to a laptop in the middle and look for a way to put a laptop on an arm on the side of the cart too. Needs to collapse down so the whole things is self-contained for transport. I'd use the middle laptop for copying and the side laptop for proxy creation.
Make sure you have all the cables on hand. Thunderbolt 2, USB2 B, USB2 Mini-B (old GoPro charging), USB2 Micro-B (old Android charging), USB3 B, USB3 Micro-B, and finally USB C. I'd have 1 each on the USB2 variants, 2 each on the USB3 variants, and 3 of the Type C variants. Gauge your own need for Firewire 400, Firewire 800, HDMI, Ethernet, and the requisite dongles. Might be wise to have a USB-A dongle and maybe an Ethernet dongle on hand for the Touchbar laptops. Even if you don't have a Touchbar they're coming. It isn't that much money (comparatively) to keep these kinds of things in a drawer, but it can make a huge difference if you have it on hand.
I'd probably trick my cart out with a mass charger and some Lightning and Type-C cables. Hit all the cables with some orange gaff or some sort of mark so that people don't carry them away. Might even tape the phone cables to the cart. Might seem excessive, but if you set that up people won't be filling up your power strip with their chargers or plugging their phones into your ingest station. 10 ports might be more than you need, especially since people shouldn't be using their phones too heavily on set, but the goal is to make sure your power strip isn't used on phones.
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As for software, you'll have to consider your needs and what fits them best. I'm not a lot of help on that front. Haven't messed around with the options too much.
That's not correct. In order for cables to support fast charging, they have to have a 56k ohm resistor connected in the right place.
I like the Anker cables. They come in a variety of lengths; the last time I ordered, I ordered these: [3 Pack] Anker Powerline USB-C to USB 3.0 Cable (3ft) with 56k Ohm Pull-up Resistor for Samsung Galaxy Note 8, S8, S8+, S9, S10, MacBook, Sony XZ, LG V20 G5 G6, HTC 10, Xiaomi 5 and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HF0YGCK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_A2yPCbZAZB83E
These are what I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HF0YGCK/
If you want to buy another cable, read the reviews first and also ensure it has a 56K Ohm resistor like this Anker one.
I know that... i bought some cheaper ankers (non braided) for those situations, but type C still is new... so there aren't too many good low cost cables out.
I only have one dash charger (It's just called One Plus Fast Charge now) and I haven't tried the new cables on it as its at work.
USB-C to C: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01LNA0XCU
usb3 to C - 3ft: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01HF0YGCK
usb3 to C - 6ft: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01NGTUJ4Y
I have this, works great. Of course, in order to enable fast charging with any charger you need to have a capable cable. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016LOGVRE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I use it along with these cables: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HF0YGCK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Link to the cable i use, reported Max USB current was 2100 mA in Ampere app while using it with a anker car charger
I think for 45W charging to work with the Note you'll have to go for this one, I'm not sure how picky the Note is.
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Powerline-Certified-Delivery-Chromebook/dp/B071WNXY1R/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=Anker+Powerline+II&amp;qid=1566570197&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-7
The other one works fine with 25W quickcharge though.
Their recommended charging cable is 1.8m, USB 2.0, USB-IF certified, and £7.
I’ve used this one and it’s been very reliable.
Anker Powerline II USB C to USB C 2.0 Cable (6ft) USB-IF Certified, Power Delivery PD Charging for Apple MacBook, Huawei Matebook, iPad Pro 2018, Chromebook, Switch, and More Type-C Devices/Laptops https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WNXY1R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jAixDbCQ36VJB
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Powerline-Probably-Certified-Matebook/dp/B071WNXY1R/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1543418637&sr=8-6&keywords=usb+c+anker+usbc+cable
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This one?
Anker - best thing i could find, would be nice if they had a 10ft/3m cable
I really like the anker powerline cables. I have this one for c to c
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Probably-Certified-Matebook/dp/B071WNXY1R/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539617792&sr=8-1&keywords=Anker+PowerLine+II+USB-C+to+C
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For A to C
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Charging-Samsung-MacBook/dp/B071G5WSK2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1539617865&sr=8-5&keywords=anker+powerline+plus+a+to+c
I don't have that charger, but the first thing that I noticed was that the prongs were fixed. I carry my T480 in a rugged slipcase, and that would not fit well in the outer pocket. While there's nothing wrong with that charger and the few reviews it has are positive, you can get a better charger for a little bit more money.
I use RavPower's 45W USB C charger (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H9WMW6N/) with a Volta XL cable (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MCBH5GW/). The charger has a nice matte finish, not a glossy finish like it looks in the pictures. The Volta XL cables aren't perfect, but they're the best magnetic USB C PD cable's I've found.
If the size isn't a problem, RavPower also has a 61W charger that has a USB A port in addition to the USB C PD port: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PLR7T1M/. They also make a 45W cube charger if the you don't like the design of the above 45W unit (blocks outlets next to it): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TC53ZYD/
Note that you'll need a USB C PD cable since none of these chargers have a cable included. Anker's Powerline II USB C PD cable supports up to 60W PD: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WNXY1R.
Anker Powerline II USB-C to C 2.0 Cable (6ft) Probably The World's Most Durable Cable, USB-IF Certified for Samsung Galaxy Note 8 S8 S8+ S9 S10, Huawei Matebook, MacBook, iPad Pro 2018 and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WNXY1R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ea-UCb01Y0XZ4
Deal of the day too!
If you're just looking for a basic C-C cable, I've had good luck with the AmazonBasics and Anker cables and any of them should be fine.
However, in the past year or so, I've been making an effort future proof myself as I'm replacing more and more devices with USB-C ones. I've bought several of these Anker Powerline II C-C cables when they go on sale because they're capable of USB 3.1 data speeds and up to 100W of power, which is especially useful for laptops that charge over USB-C versus 30W or 60W with cheaper cables. Just kind of a way to more fully realize the USB-C dream, I guess.
Yeah, I think PowerLine II is the only way to go right now for PD.
https://amazon.com/dp/B072JYDQ7N
I would like to know if you guys are gonna offer more sizes for the Anker PowerLine II USB-C to USB-C 3.1 Gen 2 Cable in the future? 3 Feet is not long enough for me. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072JYDQ7N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WnKSBb765Y95Z
All C cables support data, but there is a wide range of speeds. Try grabbing one of these 3.1 Gen 2: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B072JYDQ7N/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_azVWDbP2BTNYB
You'll notice commonly the cable is thicker, 3ft is the max length, and the tips are longer than normal.
Thanks for your clarifications ! So this Aukey charger seems to compatible with PD2.0 of the Pixel, that's a good news.
With that I think I'm going to buy this Anker USB-C cable with USB IF certification. Could you confirm it's a good one to enable PD2.0 with the Aukey charger ?
This combo is pretty expensive but if I wanna have a PD compatible charger I think it's a minimum.
Sorry for my short answers I'm on my phone and the GBoard keep correcting me for every english words aha. But really thank you for your précise answers !
The V30 can use either Quick Charge or Power Delivery to fast charge. You do need a proper cable, look for ones that explicitly call out high-watt Power Delivery support.
Thanks, I believe I have that exact charger, works for quick charge the Note and also good enough for my nintendo switch in dock mode.
the cable I went for this one:
Anker PowerLine II USB-C to USB-C 3.1 Gen 2 Cable (3ft)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B072JYDQ7N/
I bought this ones, just in case:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0791VDWKV/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?smid=A294P4X9EWVXLJ&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JYDQ7N/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?smid=A294P4X9EWVXLJ&psc=1
Don't forget USB-C
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Type-C-Delivery-Charger-PowerPort/dp/B01D8C6ULO/ref=sr_1_3?s=wireless&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482870577&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=anker+usb+c+charger https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Devices-Including-ChromeBook/dp/B01EMINIWW/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482873683&amp;sr=8-10&amp;keywords=usb+c+anker
UGREEN USB 3.0 Active Extension... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01FQ88CHS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share 32 ft babbyyyy, but you also need just a USB to usb c
My 2 month old Switch, only used for 20-30hrs or so just had the Touchscreen functionality completely die. No touch response at all after being left in case for 3 weeks when I was on holiday. I cleaned it, took off the screenprotector, did a hard reset without profile/savedata loss: no change. It's on the way to Nintendo RMA right now...
Kind of pissed such an expensive device that has barely seen any use breaks so quickly! Anybody else know of this happening? I find very little about it on Google.
Edit: if it matters, I charged it right before with this adapter: https://www.ugreen.com.cn/products/18w-pd-usb-c-quick-charger and this cable: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-Type-C-Charger-Cable/dp/B01GGKZ1VA/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=amazonbasics+usb-c&amp;qid=1565785614&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-4
I use these.
AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB Type-C 2.0 Charger Cable - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters) - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKZ1VA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_f9jKDbDTE4N0T
If you have an older MacBook Air/Pro: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-USB-Male-Cable/dp/B01GGKYN0A/ref=sr_1_3_acs_sk_pb_1_sl_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542134206&sr=8-3-acs&keywords=usb+c+cable
If you have a recent MacBook (the really thin one): https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-Type-C-2-0-Cable/dp/B01GGKZ2SC/ref=sr_1_3_acs_sk_pb_1_sl_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542134206&sr=8-3-acs&keywords=usb+c+cable
However, keep in mind, these are large files and recorded in a really highly compressed format, so if your Macbook is any less than a MacBook Pro with a good graphics card and a powerful processor, you're not going to have a fun time because rendering h.264 is a resource intensive task.
I used to be the same way when I was buying nothing but Monoprice cables. I started buying Mediabridge cables and have not needed to replace one in the past year and a half. Seriously, the best cables I've ever used. That goes with their 3.5mm audio cables and HDMI cables that I've bought from them also.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GF8TIK
Blah blah /r/hailcorporate etc, their cables are super sturdy.
Here's a $6 Micro USB with over 7,000 ratings and 5,000 reviews.
At half the cost, it is twice the length, and arguably higher quality.
Do I need one in my bathroom? No, but that's beating around the issue at hand.
I don't think having one at my office, bedroom, car, etc is overkill.
That's also taking into consideration one person, of which most households have more than that.
That's also negating the fact that micro USB is used for devices outside of Apple products.
My external battery pack uses Micro USB, as well as my tablet, GPS, bluetooth, camera, wireless keyboard, and numerous other devices.
Do I think the lightning connector has worth? Yes, I thoroughly enjoy not having to fish around at night to plug in my phone, but I also have to go out and buy a bunch of new cables whenever a company uses a proprietary cable. I don't need to do the same if micro USB is used.
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Micro-Braided-Jacket/dp/B00UUBRX0Y
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DEMTOQ6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472832765&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=Anker+micro+usb&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41yN2ZxOPqL&amp;ref=plSrch
That's 2 for under 5 bucks.. I was wrong. Well worth it. Read the reviews before you listen to the guy who replied saying to not use anker. They are all I use on my phone for the past 3 years and zero issues.. They work flawlessly, read the 6thiusand reviews, most mark them at 5 stars
Here is a USB-C to micro usb for my phone for $6.99
Here is a USB-C to Type B usb for my printer for $6.99
Here is a USB-C to USB3-Micro for my external HDD for $6.99
This seems like a whole fuss over nothing?
*the downvotes are because???
Yo get those referral codes off the links please. mods?
his links without referral codes:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AA0U08M
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7TXTPP/