Nope, you're falling for marketing.

The only reason you see those hubs for as much as $70 is because the only people that need them are recent MacBook owners who, stereotypically, will pay that much for a little hub. (don't hate on me for this, I own a MacBook and just think the majority of owners don't know/care how much tech should cost). Also can find them for under $30 on Amazon in about 20 seconds.

Also you must have no clue how manufacturing works if you think it's $10 worth of plastic lol. It's probably closer to fifty cents.

Lasty, you can't just say something cost $100 to make if consumer products you could sorta make duck tape together would add up to that amount. Each product has it's individual manufacturing cost and product margin factored into the sales price.

So no, it's not a good deal.... but it doesn't matter because due to the propriatary nature of the chip no one else can make a competing product. Nintendo probably makes an enormous profit on a low volume of sales because some people will buy it no matter what price. It sucks for the consumer but it's probably great for Nintendo.

Been traveling with this rig for over 7 months and across 4 continents.

This photo was taken in a co-working space in Lima Peru. I much prefer working out of co-working spaces as opposed to wherever I’m staying (mostly Airbnb’s) - productivity/work first, adventure and travel come second.

Happy to answer any questions. Cheers!

Edit: Here is a list of all the components since everyone is wanting to know.

• Laptop: Macbook Pro Touchbar version with 4 USB-C/Thunderbolt 3 ports
  
• Stand: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EP48NMY (tons of other brands with similar designs)
  
• Monitors: Asus Zenscreen - https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-ZenScreen-MB16AC-15-6-Inch-Monitor/dp/B071S84ZW7 (they make one with an integrated battery, but I wouldn't want the extra weight)
  
• Keyboard: Kinesis Freestyle2 Blue with wrist pads, etc. Trackball Mouse: Kensington Expert Mouse Wireless
  
• Trackball Standard Mouse: Logitech MX Master 2S Extras: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZBPS9R https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MXKJC4M
  
• Headphones: Sony Sony WH-1000XM3
  
  Photo of the backside of the rig:
  http://files.jacobt.com/lJMeLI1LuD

Continuation thread (See first comment below for beginning)

Is That a Node in your Server Rack?

...”or are you just happy to parallelize me?”

Now onto the build for the server nodes themselves. These are pretty simple; again I went with the K.I.S.S. method of building here, and using the original HDD Caddies for the DS14MK2, I surface mounted the SBCs using these awesome double-sided adhesive standoffs. This allowed me to get the R-Pis and the like, very very closely surface mounted. This was an important element, since there’s barely enough space width-wise for anything too thick (that’s what she said).

It took me a few iterations to find just the right location within each caddy to mount the SBCs, but I finally got it down to a not-so-exact science. Each caddy/tray now comes with a naked (ripped off the plastic shell) 48vdc -> 5vdc Gigabit Active PoE Splitter, which conveniently has a micro usb charging end for the R-Pi power.

Additionally, some of the nodes also have a “UPS” battery backup system — ahem, basically it’s a USB Powerbank 3200mAh, which gets power from the PoE splitter, and then gives that power to the R-Pi’s. Nothing fancy.

Oh, some of the nodes also have a real fancy Movidius Neural Compute Stick from Intel. Cause, you know. Neural Networks and stuff.

• Each node is a separate unit, which processes data and vomits results back to the main rack server.
  
• Each node has its own UPS, Operating System, and is inter-changeable with others in the array.
  
• Each SBC in the node can be spiffed up with additional hardware, such as a sensor shield/hat (temp, humidity, light sensors, et al).
  
  Note: everything in the caddy gets mounted with heavy duty double-sided adhesive tape. This makes it easier to replace/reposition/remove certain parts if needed later on.
  
  
  Reference Photo
  
  Reference Photo
  
  Reference Photo

$7 HDMI cable,$9 USB cable, $14 charger, $28 for a hub that splits USB-C into HDMI, USB-A, and USB-C, leaving $32 for the plastic shell.

Over priced? Yes. But honestly by not as much as I'd have thought before breaking it down.

This guy works very well for me.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019BLMWWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Lk.4yb13CSXW0

I use this hub/splitter for my Nomad Qi charging pad and a USB drive in my Model 3. Works flawlessly. The Nomad charges — with one USB cable
plugged direct into the car and one via the splitter — and the USB drive shows up in the entertainment system plugged into either the USB 2 or 3.1 ports.

I learned of this item in one of the Nomad threads here.

Onvian 3 port USB hub

https://www.amazon.com/HyperDrive-Type-C-Adapter-50Gbps-MacBook/dp/B01MUAEI7J

Lets just randomly round up these numbers, not care that we can get cheaper in bulk: 2m+ already ordered, and think we need to buy random componets instead of manufacturing ours to spec.

Also with the Switches video signal being 1080p max we could likely get by with a standard usb hub with a USB to USB C cross over cutting drastically down on cost.

Not to mention there is hubs for as little as $17 and a USB C to HDMI for $13 which is $30 not $50-$70

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XU6IMWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3eqizbXC66S0N

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0123PJ9BK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Wgqizb8KES27B

Amazon already sells these.

Found one for $30: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TVSLDND/?coliid=I1PH30VQDRR2BD&colid=20GG08L92YQQ5&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

why not just buy a small usb hub instead? The flash drive and phone would then plug into the usb hub. something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Premium-Aluminum-Rotatable-HB-R3MC/dp/B00LRYUJQS

I ran into this issue as well. I am running x4 120mm (Push/Pull) on my H100i, and 2x 140mm top exhaust, plus the GPU Hybrid fan. I ended up putting the GPU fan back on the GPU header, but the other 6 fans are all controlled with one of these SATA powered PWM Fan Hubs from a single header. And this board also has less USB ports than my Z97 Impact board did, so I ended up buying a USB C to 4x USB hub to run my headset/wheel/etc off of. Bonus Build Pics

USB 3.0 in the hub means that 2 of the 4 high-speed pairs coming from the USB-C connection are used for it, leaving only 2 for DisplayPort alt mode. With 2 pairs DisplayPort 1.2 has only enough bandwidth to do 4k30.

If you are willing to drop USB 3.0 -> 2.0 so all 4 pairs go to DisplayPort which means 4k60, something like this will work: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Multiport-DisplayPort-Ethernet/dp/B06Y5N3YCD

Although this one has caused me some random display flickers, but nothing too troubling so far, maybe 1-2 flickers per day. It just might be the monitors and daisy chain setup i have so check if there are similar products, check the reviews, etc. first.

It's not really about skimping, most hubs on the market don't support Thunderbolt 3/USB-C and passthrough data + 87W power. Mostly because it makes the hubs expensive.

For instance if the person I originally replied to bought this :
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07H4VQ4BZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CtBmDb54E2B3F.

There's no charge pass through.

80 ducking dollars??

I have raspberry pi2 and raspberry pi3 running at the moment.
no load balancing.
for my televisions I run koi/rasplex. 1 for each tv. since not every TV is where ethernet runs in my home, I like to use the pi3 for its integrated wifi/bluetooth. the bluetooth also makes remotes very easy as I can use any number of bluetooth keyboard/touchpad combos.

I don't run Raspberry pi game emulators, but I am really considering it as a high def screen replacement for my nintendo wii with home-brew.

I've used LazyLibrarian,Sonarr,sabnzbd,BT clients,generic raspbian for SSH/Socks5 proxy, Octoprint for my 3d printer (the most heavily used pi install in my home).

the PoE solution that I like the most right now is: https://www.amazon.com/microUSB-Splitter-Ethernet-Raspberry-WT-AF-5v10w/dp/B019BLMWWW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467599020&sr=8-1&keywords=pi+PoE

The price point is nice and the form factor is easier to fit to basic raspi cases.


http://www.htpcguides.com has a lot of good examples of pi projects for home media use. A friend of mine uses his pi for a kodi extension called onechannel that scrapes many websites for streaming media. I generally avoid torrents and streaming websites for content as the risk/reward is not where I want to see it for stuff I am already entitled to through my cable provider.

http://www.htpcguides.com/configure-pctv-triplestick-292e-tvheadend-on-raspberry-pi/

tvheadend with an hd homerun prime gets me great network video recorder without any pesky copyright issues (home video recording is legit under fair use). for things that fall outside the capability of my hd homerun, I can use hulu,netflix,amazon prime video, hbo go, etc to fill the gap.

I don't do anything with the pi zero or pre-rj45 on board models as connectivity is a nuisance. the total investment for performance of the pi zero combined with availability just hasn't made sense.

Here are the accessories I got to go with my SL3, they all have worked well for me:

• Anker 7 port USB-C dock
  
  • 2xUSB-A (3.0), Ethernet, usb-c power, SD, microSD, HDMI (1440p@60hz)
    > Dock draws 12W of power, so I recommend using this as a home dock that is plugged in all of the time
    
• Anker 5 port USB-C adapter
  
  • 2xUSB-A (3.0), SD, microSD, HDMI (1440p@60hz)
    > This dock has no power draw overhead, so I use it for travel. It also doesn't have power pass through or ethernet
    
• 6 foot usb-c to usb-c power cable
  > Slow data speed - is only meant as a charging cable
  
• 61W GaN power adapter
  
  • Takes advantage of gallium nitride so it is small compared to normal charger
    
  • Being 61W it takes advantage of the quick-charge that the SL3 battery is capable of
    > It is still a little bit slower to charge than the OEM 65W charger
    
• 20Ah 45W power bank
  
  • Gets me about a full charge
    
  • Charges at 25W
    
  • Outputs 45W so it charges relatively quickly, albeit not quick-charge speeds

Kind of, there is a Wireless USB standard, but it is rarely used from what I can tell. There are however wireless USB hubs on the market.

That however only gives you USB->wireless->USB. Not aware of anything that could do Bluetooth. In most instances it would be cheaper to just get a wireless mouse&keyboard.

How about this?

Thank you for this. I just got version 9 this morning and was looking up how to do this.

Edit: realized after posting that was the opposite of what is needed. Someone else posted THIS which looks like it should work.

Hmm I think this is a good game to play. I would like to open this up to everyone and have them comment on the exact model of what I have in my picture. I'll edit my post with the confirmation and links of what everything is. Clues: look at old version of my battle stations

Go!

Laptop: [Dell XPS 15 L521X] (http://www.amazon.com/Dell-XPS-XPS15-9062sLV-15-Inch-Laptop/dp/B009FX7BWS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414022233&sr=8-1&keywords=l521x) [System Specs] (http://i.imgur.com/x4VrjFg.png)

Laptop Stand: [Cooler Master Ergostand] (http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-NotePal-ErgoStand-Adjustable/dp/B003GCQ1YI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414022264&sr=8-2&keywords=cooler+master+ergostand)

Webcam: [Logitech C/B 910] (http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-960-000683-B910-HD-Webcam/dp/B0040508OY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414022290&sr=8-2&keywords=logitech+910)

Speakers: [2 pair of Dayton B652] (http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-B652-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B002RMPHMU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414022347&sr=8-1&keywords=b652)

Keyboard: [CM Storm Trigger Black Switches] (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823129009)

Mouse: [Anker Gaming Mouse] (http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Programmable-Gaming-Cartridge-Switches/dp/B00CDINUTK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414022458&sr=8-1&keywords=anker+5000+dpi)

USB Hub: [Anker 13 port USB 3.0 hub] (http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-13-Port-Charging-VL812-B2/dp/B00GSLMTQ8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414022483&sr=8-2&keywords=anker+10+port+hub)

Computer screens: [2 of LGE2242] (http://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-EB2242T-BN-22-Inch-LED-Lit/dp/B007XNRAQY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414022508&sr=8-1&keywords=lg+e2242)

Monitor Mount: [Vivo Monitor Stand] (http://www.amazon.com/Monitor-Mount-Stand-Adjustable-Screens/dp/B009S750LA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414022540&sr=8-1&keywords=vivo+stand)

Receiver: [JVC 703VBK] (http://i.imgur.com/LvoOg2x.jpg)

Hexagonal device: [Moto Stream] (http://www.amazon.com/Moto-Stream-Wireless-Music-Adapter/dp/B00L4VZZFE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414022672&sr=8-1&keywords=moto+stream)

Subwoofer: [Yamaha YST-SW012] (http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-YST-SW012-8-Inch-Front-Firing-Subwoofer/dp/B000TQ4D8K/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1414023087&sr=1-1&keywords=yst+sw012)

Headphones: [Monoprice 108323] (http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-108323-Premium-Hi-Fi-Headphone/dp/B007SP2CO2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414022699&sr=8-1&keywords=monoprice+headphones)

Hard drive: [Seagate 3TB expansion drive] (http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-External-STBV3000100/dp/B00834SJU8/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1414023141&sr=1-2&keywords=seagate+3tb)

Cased device on top of hard drive: [Raspberry Pi B] (http://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-Model-512MB-Computer/dp/B00LPESRUK/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1414023042&sr=1-1&keywords=raspberry+pi)

Chair (this is a hard one): I forget

Yeah, I'm really hoping in the near future somebody (if not nintendo) releases a dockless dock. Like, a USB C to HDMI adaptor like this.


I'm going to visit a friend four hours away tomorrow night, and it's a bit of a bummer that I have to pack up the dock and everything so we can play MK8 on his TV

I’m using this small USB hub for exactly that purpose.

As far as trust-able names go, I find the pickings are fairly slim. You wind up paying a premium for it.

Anker, my preferred, has one without an SD slot at $60.

Aukey has one without the SD slot. $40.

Aukey has another, but it's missing the HDMI port. $17.

Lenovo's has all the bells/whistles, but comes to $58.

You have ask yourself if you're willing to drop that much on a trustworthy name, or if ones like this from Mokin are worth the $30 risk.

Lets get fancy. Lets say you went with a 10 port hub. That means you only need 22,500 of them.

Took a model off of amazon, like this one.

Item weighs 1.3 pounds. Has a dimension of 5.71 x 2.96 x 1.06 inches.

Right off the bat, we have 30,000 lbs to worry about. Are you going to carry 15 tons worth of stuff?

Each one occupies a space of 17.915696 cubic inches.

That is 403,103 cubic inches. That comes out to roughly 100 beer kegs in volume. Imagine beer kegs stacked end to end, and that doesn't account for the usb cables, power source, etc.

Just saying, the logistics doesn't seem too plausible unless urgently needed for some zombie apocalypse :)

Bought the wireless charging Mat that replaces the USB one provided with the car. I’m so happy with that $49 Amazon purchase. TapTes brand. Also purchased thr Boulder Pack Co. Compact True-Capacity 20000 mAh Power Bank (with 2 Fast-Charge Smart). And increases the charging Of anything using the Mat.

I added links products that I purchased.

TapTes Charging Mat:

TapTes Model 3 Wireless Charger Dual Qi Wireless Smartphone Charging Pad M3 Car Interior Center Console Accessories for Any Qi Enable Phone, Compatible with Tesla Model 3 - No Software Issue Upgraded https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q9L6DJN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1GU2CbTK8JFE1

Pass through Charger:

Boulder Pack Co. Compact True-Capacity 20000 mAh Power Bank (with 2 Fast-Charge Smart-Output 3.0A Ports, Pass-Through Charging & TSA Compliant) Compatible with iPhone, iPad, and Android https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CGGGQBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QFU2CbKCZJJPJ

USB Hub

Sabrent Hub a 3 Porte USB 3.0 in Alluminio Ruotabile Premium [ruotabile a 90°/180°] (HB-R3MC) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013XGK53E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AIU2CbR569VQT

The hub is used to have more ports in the console to use for Flash Drives or SSD drives to record Sentry and DashCam and also play music from.

To give you an idea of how I set my car up I plug the charging mat directly into the pass-through battery. I plug the battery into one of the two USB ports in front of the console. The output from the battery is higher amperage and charges my phone much faster. The battery pack charges itself when I’m driving.

That frees up one of the USB ports where I plug in the USB splitter and in that splitter I plug-in multiple devices such as a flash drive to record My dashcam and mySentry


Edit: fixed a typo and also added an additional comments.

This is what I use for my USB C tablet.

And this is what I use for my Micro USB wall devices

> When she reaches the lockscreen she can't type her password because the keyboard thinks it's being repeatedly touched in a few spots making her touches practically inexistent. Any insight or ways around this that any of you can think of?

Something to try:

With an USB-C hub (link below) or USB-C OTG cable you can attach a mouse and/or keyboard even before being logged in (bluetooth keyboard mice usually don't work for this purpose)

• https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-3-1-Type-C-Port/dp/B01M4J1DDP/

You could definitely get away with a type-c setup, I've done it a handful of times without problems. Just keep USB power delivery limitations in mind, you're not going to get 3 portable hard drives plugged into one type-c adapter.

This guy does power, hdmi, sd cards and 3 usb ports. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MXKJC4M

That leaves you with 3 other ports that you can use for a thunderbolt 2 adapter, hdmi adapter & a 4th for temporary devices.

I have a handful of adapters right now for testing, but with daily editing and location work I only find myself ever using one at a time.

I suspect you mean USB micro B (pre 3.0) to USB C. This should meet your needs:


AmazonBasics USB Type-C to Micro-B 2.0 Cable - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters) - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYE4U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tmpxCb1HQJMC8

You could also get a USB C hub with USB A Hub such as:

USB C HDMI Adapter for MacBook Pro 2016/2017, 5 in 1 USB-C to HDMI Output, SD+MicroSD Card Reader and 2-Ports USB 3.0 (Space Gray) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074J79WWJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dspxCbVX68Z6D

And you could use a standard USB micro B (2.0 not 3.0) to USB A cable.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DD8BLJW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


i use this anker one. HDMI port , Power pass through port and a usb 3.0 for mouse and keyboard. I use a logitech mouse and keyboard combo with one receiver so i only need one port but anker has another hub with 2 usb ports , hdmi and power in, for the same price. You could connect a usb speaker as well

i got this one and it seems to be quality for a pretty good price, unless you want more usb ports, that is

This one by Anker has an Ethernet port, but you do lose a usb-c data port - Anker USB C Hub Adapter, PowerExpand+ 7-in-1 USB C Adapter

I mean, here's a hub with those ports along with pretty much every other port in existance. I'm pretty sure something like what you're looking for exists out there.

Here is the one I use. Works pretty well for me. Just get some 3M velcro and stick it under your desk.

Sounds like most people in higher ed today: Several crucial factors missing in the theoretical world, check. Errors in grammar, check. Obviously poor because completing PHD and needs to buy more computer stuff, check.

So the obvious answer:

1 x these
and
10 x these
$865

Or

4 x these
$800

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-13-Port-Charging-VL812-B2/dp/B00GSLMTQ8/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1483067598&sr=8-6&keywords=usb+3.0+hub+12+port

You could use something like Corz Checksum to calculate checksums on each file and compare the onsite and offsite versions to see if they are different. If they are, one copy is bad but you'll need some other way to figure out which one.

Once you've collected all your good checksums, you can do the same check anytime in the future to determine if either copy is bad.

To save time and effort and money, you could buy a few USB docks or powered adapters (around $20 each) and a good USB 3.0 hub and run multiple instances of your checksum utility, one for each drive.

if you're looking for the 'type', i have a similar one bookmarked from amazon but if you want same brand, it's not logitech https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Rotatable-Degree-HB-UMN4/dp/B00LRYUJQS/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1486844640&sr=1-4&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A6801586011

USB is a very well understood standard at this point. Cheapo splitters shouldn't really be giving you an issue, in most cases. The problem could be with the Surface 3, perhaps not having enough power to drive everything you're plugging in.

Regardless of the price of the splitter, it will suck the same amount of power out of your Surface 3. Your phone will demand enough power to charge every single time. Regardless of the device used (Surface Pro vs. Surface 3 vs. PS4 vs. Macbook Pro and etc), the hub will perform the same. My suggestion is not at all device specific, I have a Surface Pro 2, not a Surface 3 and primarily use this Anker Hub. I usually use this hub with my Nintendo Switch anyway, so even further removed from your experience.

But, considering your requirements, you might want to look into a powered USB hub. A powered hub will supplement the power of your Surface's USB port with power from a wall outlet.

[This hub is powered by Micro-USB, like the Surface 3 itself](https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Ultra-Slim-Portable(-Adapter-Notebook/dp/B0192LPK5M/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1538541500&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=anker+4+port+usb+3.0+hub&dpPl=1&dpID=41-z2A-nISL&ref=plSrch). That might be convenient for you, and could yield battery savings and greater compatibility

TLDR: OP is simply extolling the virtues of this PoE 5V/2A splitter with micro-USB output ($18, Power-over-Ethernet 802.3af). No questions in there.

PoE is worth considering if you're going to run an Ethernet cable to a "remote" Pi. Too expensive for daily use or if your Pi is remote but connected via WiFi.

Did you take a look at this instead of a fairly permanent solution like soldering yours on? It's a Zero's worth more than your PoE splitter, but hey, it should work with any RPI

Satechi USB-C Hub Adapter..
Satechi Type-C USB 3.0 3 in 1 Combo Hub for MacBook (with USB -C Charging Port) (Space Gray) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019PHF9UY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2rToyb71Y5968

Here is the mobile version of your link

This one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GKSPMCQ

Works for me under Pie, but there's some AR problems. Fiddling with SecondScreen improves it somewhat.

Haven't tried under Oreo. It could be perfect.

USB-C or USB 3? I can't think of any audio interfaces that use USB-C (correct me if I"m wrong here), and most MIDI to USB adapters I've seen also don't use USB-C.

Actually looking at the specs for the macbook pro and holy god there's literally only 2 ports and they're both USB-C that's so awful. Like I said, most MIDI-to-USB adapters and audio interfaces use USB type A plugs, so you'll need an adapter or a hub anyway to be able to use them (might as well get both in one, imo).

If you get a USB C to USB hub, it would be USB 3 to USB 3, so they should all have the same speed (I think there are sometimes issues of having enough power to send to everything but don't quote me on that and as long as you don't have like 10 things plugged in you're fine).

Another option would be to get an interface with built-in MIDI support but tbh you'll probably need the hub anyways if you plan to do more than 2 things at a time ever.

(If you're not sure where to look, Amazon Basics has a Type C to Type A hub that's USB 3.1, or Anker makes a cheaper one that's got great reviews)

i got the surface dock charger and https://www.amazon.com/CERTIFIED-CHARJENPRO-PREMIUM-Adapter-Chromebook/dp/B01MXKJC4M.

the charjen doesnt have the ethernet and the cord is too short, but that's the only downside to it.if you have your book on desk level it's great but can't really hide it.

now the surface dock is the shit. only downside it that it doesn't fully charge it whn playing games, but i don't game for more than 2 hours at a time which serves me fine. it only drains power when gaming. also helps that i dock it on my desk and use the regular charger for when i take it somewhere.

First up: If you use this, you can make any DisplayPort monitor supply power and two USB 2.0 ports (for mouse and keyboard):

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B06Y5N3YCD

The eGPU has its own powersupply, using it does not affect the power usage of your MBP.

Here's some links on amazon.com:

https://amzn.com/B071JTSMVQ

https://amzn.com/B07QCZ7VX2

Not sure what the difference is besides price.

There's also this one with 4 ports which looks interesting:

https://amzn.com/B07T9H7DCQ

I decided to finally get a flash drive for the TeslaCam with the pending updates for sentry mode and the addition of the side cameras to the recording (I already have a regular dash cam, so the current implementation isn't super useful to me).

I have an iPhone X, so I decided to get a SanDisk iXpand Flash Drive that has a lightning connector so I can easy pull the video from the drive to my phone. I also got a Small Splitter so I can continue to use my Jeda Wireless Charging Pad and use TeslaCam. So far so good, no problems charging my phone on the pad (tested both sides), and was able to easily grab some video from my drive to work onto my phone. One thing that bothers me is the quality of the video, but I have the regular dash cam that has way better video quality if for some reason I need it.

The keyboard isn't anywhere near as bad as I was led to believe it would be. I actually prefer it to the older keyboards, now, too. The integrated graphics card is still ass, though, and the specs absolutely do not justify the price. I got mine used. I don't think I'd pay for it brand new, since it's absurdly expensive compared to previous models. If you do go ahead with it, I have found this dongle to be good at restoring some of the lost ports.

I use this one on my tab s4.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Delivery-Charging-Chromebook/dp/B07DD8BLJW/ref=sr_1_2?crid=FYIW89WI94FO&keywords=anker+3+in+1+hub&qid=1567676772&s=gateway&sprefix=Anker+3+in+1+hub%2Caps%2C251&sr=8-2

Ok. I’m glad you asked. Ha ha.

First, let me mention that you can use a USB cable plugged into a power source then use male to male headphone cables to get the old analogue sound but that’s not the ideal way to use the G6. In fact, sometimes I’ve found that the Switch sound wasn’t strong enough for the G6 to pick up.

Ideally, you want to use the USB. It’s worth it.

Here is what I do / have done / continue to do.

1: You can get a cable that has USB-C on one end and micro USB on the other

Cable Matters USB C to Micro USB Cable (Micro USB to USB-C Cable) with Braided Jacket 3.3 Feet in Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UUBRX0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DRGwCbRSPDZ6D

The problem is that you run into an issue when you need a charge since the USB is taken with the G6.

I also found that if you power the G6 and the Switch by the same charger, you get a power whine so you can’t plug them both into a multi USB charger. It’s too loud to ignore so that also didn’t work.

2. Here is how I solved the problem of being able to use the G6 in handheld mode and still be able to power it.

I found a dongle that lets me power the Switch as well as the G6 while still allowing me to connect to to the G6 via USB.

If you use this thing, you can connect the G6 to the USB port, connect a power source with PD to the USB power input, and connect the built-in USB-C to the Switch.

Anker USB C Hub, 3-in-1 Type C Hub, 4K USB C to HDMI Adapter, USB 3.0, with 60W Power Delivery Charging Port for MacBook Pro 2016/2017/2018, ChromeBook, XPS, and More (Space Grey) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DD8BLJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n4GwCbQ5671ZC

It ended up being a little annoying how short the attached cable was because it has to hang out of the Switch. I had to find a USB-C extension cable that allowed for power AND DATA transfer. Lots of power cables out there that won’t carry the data which is what the cable needs for the G6 and Switch to communicate. I ended up finding this cable and it worked beautifully:

Poyiccot USB Type C Extension Cable (3.3Ft/1M), High Speed Super Fast Gen 2 (10Gbps) USB 3.1 Type C Male to C Female Extension Charging & Sync Cable Cord For Nintendo Switch, Macbook & More (Straight) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3OHPD7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_26GwCb8VAGK0R

The setup I’ve finally settled in on to be able to charge the Switch, power the G6, and connect the G6 to the Switch by USB is this:

Power Supply with 60W PD —>
Anker adapter in USB C PD port
G6 plugged into the USB port with a micro USB cable
Switch plugged into the attached USB-C cable built into the Anker adapter (with the USB-C extension cord I bought)
Headphones plugged into the G6

It sounds complicated... and it was complicated to figure out... but now, I LOVE IT.

There is a nice Anker one on Amazon I have arriving this Saturday. I trust the brand, it has the ports I need and it is not that expensive.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Reader-MacBook-Chromebook/dp/B07H4VQ4BZ/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=anker+usb+c+hub&qid=1563422475&s=gateway&sr=8-4

I use it with one of these and hook up a wireless mouse and keyboard

https://www.amazon.com/Port-USB-2-0-Wireless-Hub/dp/B000UU46W8

But I really wonder why you would need one...

Kind of like this? But for usb-c i'm guessing.

There are an array of wireless hubs that would fit your need. Sadly, I've yet to see a decent one.

Link 1

Link 2

Link 3

I agree on the keyboard and mouse - when I had a Macbook Pro, I found that both were excellent. I do know some people who use a Mac with external inputs though; not really sure why, personally, but to each their own.

I don't really have a problem with headsets either way. The jack for headphones is very small, and I personally don't do anything that requires ultra-high quality audio, so a bluetooth set works for me well enough.

>I commonly have both my USB ports filled.

Fair enough. Most of the people I know - by which I mean, all but one - rarely use external drives. The internal drives are so large now that it's actually challenging to fill them up.

>Does spotify have Yousei Teikoku yet?

Actually, my previous post was written from a more "general" outlook. I don't seem to be an especially musical person; I listen to music on occasion, but most of the time, I'd rather watch a TV show or movie, or just have silence.

Most of what I do listen to - and, I suspect, the majority of what most people listen to - is common enough to be on Spotify. After all, Spotify needs to make money, so they're going to chase the big names wherever possible.

Not to be rude, but it sounds like some of your tastes are more esoteric. There's nothing wrong with that, but it also means that your experience won't necessarily compare to other peoples. For most of the people who might buy this Mac, I'd bet that Spotify (or Youtube, or some other online service) could satisfy almost all of their musical cravings.

The same is also true of the anime films. Yeah, you're probably going to have to download those, until either Netflix expands enough to cover them (which I fully believe will happen, but not before this Mac is released) or another service appears to cover that niche. Like the music, I agree that your only choice is to download - but I also think that many if not most of the Mac target audience won't be doing that.

>I create just fine on my air.

There are a few things that require the iMacs. If I was starting a game studio, or something professional, then I would get those. Like you said, people in the movie industry need them.

I agree that for personal use, the laptops do just fine. I mean, stitching together some holiday photos or something is not really a big deal.

> USB sticks

With larger file sizes on emails and Dropbox, people seem to use those much less often. I have two myself, but it's been months since I used either. In fact, a friend of mine stole one almost a year ago and filled it with porn (running prank we have) and I'm not sure I ever actually cleared that off. That tells you how much I use them.

Again though, almost everyone I know don't use them often. That partly depends on company policy of course - many places, at least in the UK, refuse to let users plug USB sticks into the company computers, for fear of getting viruses.

I agree with your desire not to plug and unplug sticks when you're moving files. I actually have a USB hub I bought years ago, while I was on the Macbook Pro, so I could have two external hard-drives and two USB sticks all at once. I still use it now, but I could actually do without it. If I was being a strict minimalist, I'd probably pack it away, or just bin it. There is, as always, a slight conflict between "Want" and "Need". I would want to plug both my sticks in; I didn't (and don't) really need to.

So, the single USB port on this new Mac would be a nuisance, but not that often, and not enough to make this computer completely unusable for me.

>Does a Time Capsule hook up to my raspberry pi?

Honestly don't know, as I've not used Raspberry Pi. I don't see why you wouldn't be able to - the Time Capsule is just a wireless USB drive made by Apple. However, I know that you buy other wireless USB drives from other companies that should work.

In fact, between a wireless external hard-drive and a wireless USB hub - both of which I didn't think of last night, but occurred to me today replying to you and another commenter - you could actually get by without any USB ports in a machine.

You could buy as many wireless hard-drives as you liked, for games and anime and so on; and a wireless hub for USB sticks, and so on. You'd need to keep the hub close by for the game controllers, but otherwise, you could get by.

I'm not saying you should of course. I wouldn't want to splurge money needlessly, to accommodate a computer. However, personally, when my USB hub breaks, I'll get a wireless one (if I need one at all); and when my external hard-drives fail (I'm surprised one of them hasn't already, considering how old it is) I'll replace it with a wireless one. At that point, I'll be USB-free, except to charge occasional things.

Final thoughts:

>Games

My games are all either from Steam or GOG, so there's no risk of them disappearing. That's why I have the option of just deleting the files once I've played the game - I can redownload it later, when I want to replay. The Internet speed is a point - the UK is slowly being upgraded to 10 (possibly 12) Mbps. Our area was lucky and had it done early, but in a few years, everyone should have pretty solid Internet. I know the US is different, but I didn't think of that last night.

There are a few older games that aren't on either platform, so I'll download those eventually. But considering how little space I seem to use, I doubt it'll be a problem to store. Plus, as they're older, I suspect that all of them together will be less than 10GB.

>If you don't care about obscure media, only listen to popular stuff that's everywhere, don't care about quality, and generally don't do much work that's hard drive intensive on a frequent basis. Which I guess is most people.

Yeah exactly. Most people will fit what I described, and won't need many ports. That seems especially true as many of the Mac laptops seem to be bought by stay-at-home mums, and by parents for their college-aged children.

You have more of a case for needing extra USB ports. There are workarounds (like the wireless hub and wireless external drives, which I again hadn't thought of last night). However, you are also an exception to the rule. I don't mean that in a bad way, or anything, just that most people probably don't have your needs.

So, I stand by what I said. For the majority of users, a single USB port would be doable. There would be occasions when it's annoying, but mostly, it would be fine.

I bought 2 recently and I can recommend one of them : https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Port-USB3-0-Charging-Indicator/dp/B00NAMKDDY

The other one is not that bad, but it's so light that it doesn't stay put and the shape / ports locations is kind of akward : https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-USB-3-0-Hub/dp/B00GGYU8TC/ref=sr_1_25?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1468411112&sr=1-25&keywords=usb+3+hub

Just a note, that is very expensive. Idk about integrated solutions like the one mentioned above, and whether it's competitively priced, but you could put together a CD player, USB hub, and SD reader for much less money. And if you stacked them together, maybe taped them together or put them in a 3D printed enclosure, it wouldn't look much worse.

CD player: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1N83ZR7447

USB hub: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GGYU8TC/ref=twister_B00FB50S0Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

SD reader: https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-microSDHC-Reader-TS-RDF5K-Black/dp/B009D79VH4/ref=pd_lpo_147_lp_tr_t_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WQ6PSHXB1G9XD2P2KW7G

The above costs under $100 (around 1/3 cheaper), plus the individual components have good reviews, and the USB hub is much higher quality.

They are all 2.5" USB 3.0 with no external power supplies

I could not find the one I have, but this seems to be the updated version with 14 ports and dedicated charging.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-14-Port-Aluminum-Transfer-Charging/dp/B00GSLMTQ8

It's an Anker USB 3.0 14-Port Hub. Love it! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GSLMTQ8

How's this?

Most don't require a power source.

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Degree-Rotatable-HB-UMN4/dp/B00LRYUJQS

1. USB Switch = $7.44 USD (cables not included)
   
2. Sabrent USB Hub = $6.99 USD
   
3. 2x USB A to B cables = $4.99 each USD ($9.98 total)
   
   Total cost is just under $25 USD. Plug your keyboard and mouse into the hub, plug the hub into the USB switch, connect the USB switch to your PC and Mac. Now you can switch on the fly between both PC and Mac without having to swap cables. The nice thing about this is that you have 4 ports total, so you can add more devices if need be.

1. I don't know about PS2, but Dolphin can emulate GC AND Wii, and it seems really good, and I've seen it running well on GPD Win 2
   
   
2. You could easily do that on a $250 laptop lol, but yes, the GPD can EASILY do all those things, and it has 8 GB ram so good for having multiple things up at once, for word processing, yeah, you'l probably need a Bluetooth keyboard (Yes Win 2 has built-in BT) and the screen is a bit small to see the words, but it should be fine because it still has good resolution. And yeah, you might want that USB hub because it only has 1 USB on the back. This was one I was looking at that I think would work great with the Win/Win 2 https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Degree-Rotatable-HB-UMN4/dp/B00LRYUJQS/
   
   Hope this helps

Here's the one i bought - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LRYUJQS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This one looks good too - http://www.hhgregg.com/ihome-4-port-usb-2-0-swivel-laptop-hub/item/IHU550FB

I have [Sabrent mini 4 port] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LRYUJQS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00) and it works great. It is about the size of the zero itself so really small. It will block the hdmi mini port but if you run headless then it works well.

I had similar issues (also XPS). I picked up this usb 3 dock and have it plugged into the laptop directly: Anker 4-Port USB 3.0 Unibody Aluminum Portable Data Hub with 2ft USB 3.0 Cable for Macbook, Mac Pro / mini, iMac, XPS, Surface Pro, Notebook PC, USB Flash Drives, Mobile HDD and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O0KISQE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ljCoDbDT7DWKR

I no longer have usb headphone issues, but occasionally the mouse will have some difficulty.

You would need the power brick, yes. Get one of these instead - small enough to always keep in your bag without issue.


Anker 4 port USB 3.0 Hub (nice and thin. I own this one. Ten dollars!)


Anker 4 port USB 3.0 Hub (bigger, nicer to put on desk, think it is long enough to not "hang" off the usb plug on the SP)

I have two of my three sensors plugged into this USB hub and I have no tracking issues. Perhaps this is due to the fact that the hub is plugged into my motherboard's USB 3.1 port, which is supposed to be able to handle a much larger data load than standard USB 3.0.

My motherboard is a Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3P.

I use this one, it's small, metal (strong/not cheap) and has USB 3.0 on all ports.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O0KISQE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Great purchase! Congrats....
I'd say- w/ those devices, you won't be pressing the throughput limits of your combination Thunderbolt 3/USB 3.1 gen interface whatsoever, so I'd go w/ the cheaper solution, which is a USB C hub w/ 4 USB 3 ports.
Do NOT buy any garbage brand. Here is the best you can get @ a very decent price:
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Devices-Including-ChromeBook-Aluminum/dp/B00XU6IMWY/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1484015396&sr=1-3&keywords=usb+c+hub
Anker is the definitive MFi Apple partner on cabling; they make Apple certified, stellar products.
Note: I use this on mine, & have the EXACT same model as you!! =)

I think you actually want a USB hub, not a cable. Like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XU6IMWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NcijzbVSXAXY0

A HOTAS is an awesome addition to Elite Dangerous in VR.

As for a USB hub here is a copy paste of an answer I provided someone a few days ago about hubs. I posted earlier about PCI cards but just realised you have a laptop sp they are not really an option.

----------------------------

Just remember a hub that might work for one person might not work for another. Because you are essentially daisy chaining it to the USB controllers on your motherboard. If your motherboard doesn't have a good enough USB subsystem you are still going to have problems.

The ideal solution would be to get a hub for everything Non Rift related and try to put everything Rift related onto the motherboard where possible. If you have to put something Rift related onto a Hub I would choose a 3rd sensor first (when using supplied extension cable) as its bandwidth requirements are quite low.

Firstly you would likely want a powered USB hub in case the Rift sensors or headset needed to pull more power than the motherboard port you plug it into is able to provide.

USB 3.0 Hubs

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80

or

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Portable-Adapter-Devices/dp/B00PBZX0OM

I chose those two brands Anker and Amazon Basics because they are the hubs I commonly see people say have worked for the Rift.

USB-C Hubs

Alternatively you could try getting a USB-C hub which would give you the best chance of avoiding having a bottleneck with data throughput. I couldn't find any (of those brands) that had powered options so you run the risk of not having enough power.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Portable-Macbook-Devices/dp/B00XU6IMWY

or

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-3-1-Type-C-Port/dp/B01M4J1DDP

Disclaimer: There really isn't much documented evidence of what works because like I said earlier it all depends on the motherboard USB port you end up plugging these into. If you have success let reddit know though so others in your situation can do the same. I thought about buying a few for just testing when questions like this were asked but I couldn't be bothered as my PCI card solution works just fine (something you can't do)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XU6IMWY/ref=psdcmw_281413_t1_B00XU6PM68

I just got one of those. It seems to work well, looks good, and is cheap. I have a space grey MacBook Pro but I didn't care about the color of a USB hub.

Edit: I'm realizing that's not really the same as what you're looking at now. It's still a good option if you just need to plug in some USB devices.

Maybe this? I did find this one with two ports, but it's not as nice IMO. And I think the first one being rotatable is really convenient.

I got on of these handy things from Amazon a while back for my Surface Pro 2 before I got the Surface Book. Still use it on occasion at work or lend it out. Works great!

I am sorry, I don't know exactly what they use, but I know there are products out there, fairly easy to find. https://www.amazon.com/microUSB-Splitter-Ethernet-Raspberry-WT-AF-5v10w/dp/B019BLMWWW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466715362&sr=8-1&keywords=raspberry+pi+poe

A bit off topic, but we also use these POE injectors:

​

https://www.amazon.com/microUSB-Raspberry-WT-AF-5v10w-Right-Angle/dp/B019BLMWWW

​

No warnings, and prbly been almost 2 years running.

I use these:

Gigabit microUSB PoE Splitter for Remote USB Power over Ethernet to Tablets, Dropcam or Raspberry Pi, Use with PoE Switches, 5 Volts 10 Watts WT-AF-5v10w with male Left and Right Angle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019BLMWWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_nToSAbSDXH57X

I've used these ones, and they work well. They are gigabit, so faster than Fast Ethernet speeds of a Raspberry PI, but I'm hoping a future version will see a bump.

I bought a 2016 rMB Friday, and I am absolutely content. Single port really doesn't bother me, I never plug anything in, though I did buy this Satechi dock thing (http://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Type-C-MacBook-12-Inch-Charging/dp/B019PHF9UY?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00) just in case.

Frankly, I'd wait for the Pro refreshes that everyone else is advising you to do, but I LOVED my 11" Air and dreamed of it having a Retina display. The MacBook is the logical progression of this, and I am extremely happy with the outcome. It is fast, small, and beautiful to use.

I really like this type, but you can find cheaper like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Type-C-MacBook-12-Inch-Charging/dp/B019PHF9UY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1486992989&sr=8-6&keywords=usb+c+adapter

Found this recommendation on iMore.

https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Type-C-MacBook-12-Inch-Charging/dp/B019PHF9UY?tag=androidcent08-20&ascsubtag=UUimUdUnU40195

It does not have multiple USB Type-C ports, but does have one and it passes power. Use USB 3.1 Type-A for your external drive when it's on the hub, and keep the USB-C to USB-C adapter for when you are traveling without the hub.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GKSPMCQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vdwJybZBMAW52

Would something like this work?

I got this one on Amazon for about $27 and it works perfectly with my MacBook Pro. I see no reason why it shouldn't work on your iMac. But for $27 I say order one and give it a try, just return it if it doesn't work.

Dell charges about the same (list price $75) for their USB-C to HDMI adapter. Then factor in the HDMI and AC adapter, along with any snapping mechanics for the docking of the Switch itself and they're about equivalent.

You could go for the cheaper one at $45 or [even the $26 one] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GKSPMCQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1485170502&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=usb+c+to+hdmi&dpPl=1&dpID=31nWVKLFDiL&ref=plSrch) but you're losing some quality assurance here. Remember these need to be 100% reliable, even with 5 year olds treating them like the rest of their toys.

I have this one for my Spectre x360. Haven't even used it yet cause I really never use USB or hook up to an external monitor. But figured I'd grab one just because. The dongles very well built and looks nice, good for on the go.

If you're using a controller with a standard USB plug (USB-A),which most USB controllers are, you'll need an adapter that's USB-A to USB-C adapter. The Switch Pro Controller for example uses a USB-C cable to connect as a wired controller, so you can use a USB-C to USB-C cable to connect it to the Switch in tabletop mode.

Edit: I'd actually be interested to see if something like this would work for using multiple USB wire controllers in table top mode.

USB C to A adapter or a USB 3 hub with a C connector should be all you need. I use a 3.1 A type connector to run a hub with 2 of my sensors on it.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-3-1-Type-C-Port/dp/B01M4J1DDP/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502294465&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+3.1+hub

I used this with my laptop

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M4J1DDP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

you cannot extend it at all so the sensors will be plugged in close to your machine. I ran this off my USBc thunderbolt port with the 3 sensors and put my headset directly to the laptop. Worked fine for me. It does not like any extensions or anything else in the mix but it does work.

I'm pretty sure this one covers everything you're after. I have one and it's excellent.
https://www.amazon.com/CERTIFIED-CharJenPro-USB-C-ADAPTER-Aluminum-body/dp/B01MXKJC4M/ref=sr_1_1?m=A21KAAY3K2DV83&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1503213259&sr=1-1

yeah, plugging the egpu before turning it on helps me too.
im not sure about the cpu tem, but i have a external usb fan on both the laptop and the egpu. i do get around 54-58C on the gpu with the fan on. and about 60-70 with it off. ill link the fan below.

AC Infinity MULTIFAN S4, Quiet 140mm USB Fan for Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Computer Cabinet Cooling https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWH4FL4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_90-QDbXKSY5QJ

Also, ive been experimenting on different set ups. currently i have a type c dock (charjen pro) it has a hdmi connector so i plugged it directly to the monitor. so far it seems promising (seems like it eliminated the stutter issue).

CharJenPro USB C Hub, Certified... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXKJC4M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Have you tried a dock like this one?

Cable Matters USB-C Multiport Adapter with 4K 60Hz DisplayPort, 2x USB 2.0, Fast Ethernet, and Power Delivery in Black (Thunderbolt 3 Port Compatible) For the New Macbook Pro, Dell XPS 13/15 and More
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y5N3YCD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.ZJGAbP8277EN

Assuming you want future 4k60hz support...

With USB-C, the ideal video out is DisplayPort Alternate Mode -> DPP to HDMI adapter.

Everything else is going to be over the USB bus and up to the OS to support, and a requirement for 20v power delivery at at least 2.5 amps

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B06Y5N3YCD something like this, plus an hdmi adapter.

If you only need 1080p/4k30hz, there's a ton of generic breakout boxes.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-USB-Multiport-Adapter-Ethernet/dp/B071S1XTVR/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522689187&sr=1-11&keywords=usb-c+hdmi+gigabit

I’ve heard mixed reviews about the performance impact of doing so on a 2016, but I know it works.

I have a 2017 Macbook 12” and it works like a dream. I use this adapter. It’s the only one I found that supports power delivery + 4k @ 60hz, except for some of the larger hubs. Unfortunately your USB connectivity will be limited to USB 2.0 since most of the bandwidth will be consumed by the display.

Edit: just found a more minimal adapter by the same company. I think it is new so there are no reviews, but it may be a better solution if you don’t need USB or Ethernet at all.

Hey!

I have the same setup, you can try this hub with a classic displayport cable (you won't need your DP/USBC cable)

- Full displayport at 4K60hz

- USB C charging up to 60W (you just plug your Macbook charger)

- Two USB ports in addition

Yes anything that supports usb C PD (power delivery) minimum 29 watts (45 watts officially) you can also have external monitors and ethernet over usb-c while charging.

Here are some ive tested from amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y427WT7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075M2VV25/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077CY91S2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y5N3YCD/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Big thing you're looking for is usb PD support, power delivery. min 30 watt.

Bonus if you use the underpowered 30 watt charger it will reduce the strain on your battery (slower charge too) increasing long term life

Assuming you installed the bleemsync kernel, you can buy this adapter and plug it into slot one and it should work perfectly. I use this exact one myself. No otg needed

Onvian 3 Port USB Hub High Speed Splitter Plug and Play Bus Powered, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JTSMVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kn5uDbR3SY07Q

I bought this one and it’s been working great for me: Onvian 3 Port USB Hub High... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JTSMVQ

This one works for me:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CXAC1ZW/


And this also works along with the above:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071JTSMVQ/

Like someone else said, buy one of these:

USB-C HDMI Adapter

I would not recommend this type of adapter as many in the comments have said its easy to damage your laptop if u puma into something or move it unintentional it will damage ur usb c port or scratch your Mac I personally use a dongle type one that its like $ 30 on amazon and so far so good ill give you a link in case u want to check it out

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074J79WWJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was using an Anker hub with PD that I had bought for a Chromebook. It ended up being annoying because the built in cable to connect to my 2019 MBP was too short. I have my MBP on a stand and it would hang awkwardly in the air. Here is a link to the old hub: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Delivery-Charging-Chromebook/dp/B07DD8BLJW

I had this laying around and decided to start using it again: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Gigabit-Ethernet-Converter-Support/dp/B014ZOJX7W

Instead of using an adapter for the existing USB A to B cable I bought a new skinny cable instead: Cable Matters Type-C USB 3.1 Type B Cable (USB-C / USB C USB B 3.0 / Type-C USB 3.1 to USB B ) in Black 3.3 Feet https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UXKTJE0

This setup gives me 3 high speed USB 3.0 ports and gigabit Ethernet. Plus it's small and easy to pack up. I like that the new Cable Matters cable is detachable (of course) and it's extremely thin. Kinda cool. :shrug:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DD8BLJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uzdQCbF0F5XMP

I have this one and love it, idk if u want the extra usb A though

Anker has a good selection and I highly recommend. Anker USB C Hub Adapter, 5-in-1 USB C Adapter, with 4K USB C to HDMI, SD and microSD Card Reader, 2 USB 3.0 Ports, for MacBook Pro 2019/2018/2017, Pixelbook, XPS, and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H4VQ4BZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_S.DLDb6JG443N

It could be the dock I have! I got this one, and while it only has one HDMI port my laptop has another so I didn't think I'd need to buy something more expensive.

My budget pick would the the newest Anker USB-C Hub, or a Satechi Slim Multiport Adaptor V2 if you are willing to pay much more for a matching metal finish with your MBP. The Anker does 80% of what the Satechi one does for less than 50% of the price, but it doesn't look or feel as sleek.

I wouldn't buy one of those hubs with 2 USB-C ports that just clip on to your MBP for a bunch fo reasons.They often have loose connections so unreliable data and power transfer because USB-C is neither designed to support so much weight nor is it is a locking connector like DisplayPort, hence why they often get 3/5 stars on Amazon. Plus they aren't compatible with hardshell cases and I'd have nightmares about accidentally putting downwards pressure and damaging my ports.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerExpand-Delivery-Ethernet-Chromebook/dp/B07PPGWQ15/https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Aluminum-Multi-Port-Adapter-Readers/dp/B07F7NBVJK

Also worth mentioning is that USB PD powerbanks like the Xiaomi Powerbank 3 Pro (45W) can actually charge your MacBook Pro. I have one of those myself (except I have a Late-2016, 3.1Ghz i5, 4 TB3 ports model) and it can charge my laptop fully once so I have 20 hours of available power on the go.

Edit : micro SD Not micro USB
How about this one?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07PPGWQ15/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A294P4X9EWVXLJ&psc=1

Not exactly a dock station but this one had everything I will ever need so I bought one. Quality is top notch.

Anker USB C Hub Adapter, PowerExpand+ 7-in-1 USB C Adapter, with 4K USB C to HDMI, 60W Power Delivery, 1Gbps Ethernet, 2 USB 3.0 Ports, SD and microSD Card Readers

Also I get great speeds from the ethernet port

Depends on her major. Either way, portability is key.

Engineering benefits from decently powerful Windows machine, except computer/software engineering, which benefits from Mac. I have a pricey Dell XPS 15 which is highly powerful and quite nice.

Defer to her judgement for other majors. Personally I loved my Mac and found it to be *much* more convenient for most use around campus. WiFi connected faster, it went to sleep and woke up faster, it was super easy to drop files to my friends, etc. The one downside is Microsoft Powerpoint is worse on Mac. A MacBook Pro is probably better than a MacBook Air, but someone else can comment on that. Annoyingly, all Apple laptops have now gone all in on USB-C, which means she needs an adapter for ordinary USB ports. Pick up a USB C to USB 3.0 Hub (like this, which includes ethernet, VGA, HDMI, etc) and a dual mode USB C/3.0 flash drive for her. Finally, Apple gives decent education discounts (see here). You can use this discount at the Apple Store at the Mall of Louisiana. Most accessories are best purchased online, not in store. Apple Care is not a bad idea.

By the way, she gets free Microsoft Office through LSU. Don't buy software for her until she's sure it isn't in the software store (TigerWare)

Before she asks or a sales person suggests, she probably doesn't need an iPad or a new phone for college. If anything, consider getting her a second monitor for her room (they're cheap--like this) and can do double duty for streaming Netflix if she's in a dorm. They're nice when you need to multitask (have notes open while researching), or have your online textbook open on one screen while your homework is on the other, etc)

Do ya one better, here is the link on amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TVSLDND/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just ordered the new Surface Laptop 3 myself and I have my eye on this one since it's on sale: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TVSLDND/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3BJFHXXMK8OTL&psc=1

Some of the reviews mention using it with the Surface Pro 7 and Surface Book 2, so it's highly likely to be compatible with the laptop :).

this and also

This sort of thing?

http://www.amazon.com/Port-USB-2-0-Wireless-Hub/dp/B000UU46W8

I've not personally used it, and the reviews are mixed...

All I could find that doesn't use an actual wifi network is this:

http://www.amazon.com/Port-USB-2-0-Wireless-Hub/dp/B000UU46W8

Edit: never mind, no drivers for Windows 10

http://www.amazon.com/Port-USB-2-0-Wireless-Hub/dp/B000UU46W8

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000UU46W8?pc_redir=1406023815&robot_redir=1

How about this one? https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-USB-3-0-Hub/dp/B00GGYU8TC

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-USB-3-0-Hub/dp/B00GGYU8TC

Great quality hub with a 60w psu

I have two of them (if you google i have posted a guide how to update the firmware on them as well)

There's actually a number of Amazon Basics USB 3.0 hubs. There's a little 4 port one, a 7 port one, and a 10 port one. I'm assuming the underlying tech is all pretty similar, so it's mostly just a question of how many ports one needs.

I actually considered this but never got around to buying a proper 19V power supply for my dock largely because I didn't know what connector it used (product page doesn't specify). If anyone can provide any insight to what this could use I would appreciate it!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GGYU8TC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_ZyB8AbJYVGXJ7

Anker AH241 USB 3.0 Aluminum 13-Port Hub + 5V 2.1A Smart Charging Port with 12V 5A Power Adapter [VIA VL812-B2 Chipset] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GSLMTQ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_UsUlDbJ47MQM1


Would something like this that I can mount on my wall work? Then run everything behind my desk and plug into that? New and want to see what others are using, thanks!

This hub is the best USB hub I've ever used, but they also have a cheaper, smaller version.

80 dollars

This is the model I bought.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GSLMTQ8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Found!

Exactly like that.
I'm going to try to find one with USB 3.0, but this'll work in a pinch.

http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Rotatable-Degree-HB-UMN4/dp/B00LRYUJQS/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1416192807&sr=1-8&keywords=usb+hub

Search for compact USB hubs. Here are some:

• https://www.amazon.com/TROND-Slim-USB-Swiveling-Connector/dp/B015S7FTS2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480871381&sr=8-3&keywords=compact+usb+hub
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Rotatable-Degree-HB-UMN4/dp/B00LRYUJQS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1480871381&sr=8-4&keywords=compact+usb+hub
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Lizone-Stylish-Microsoft-Surface-Windows/dp/B01FO6V6UM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1480871381&sr=8-5&keywords=compact+usb+hub
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Premium-Aluminum-Rotatable-HB-R3MC/dp/B013XGK53E/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1480871381&sr=8-6&keywords=compact+usb+hub
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Cute-USB-2-Port-Hub-Splitter/dp/B00A81ISJ6/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1480871381&sr=8-7&keywords=compact+usb+hub
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/USB-2-0-Two-Compact-Port/dp/B00BZJAO1U/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1480871381&sr=8-10&keywords=compact+usb+hub

• My mom came down from Kentucky for a few days for her job. Went to see some other family as well.
  
  
• Aced a Math quiz thanks to the internet. Found out that the class I'm in is a credited class, which means I only need 1 more math class and I'm done. - College
  
  
• Bought a few of these for my dad, uncle, and myself. I'm probably going to use it for a future computer.
  
  
• I think the only design I posted this week
  
  
• For college, I have 2 midterms next week(Writing and Math) that I'll most likely cheat on since they're both online. Gotta get those good grades.
  
  
• After watching Casey Neistat's vlog, does anyone know where he is?

I've been looking for a good USB hub that won't have trouble hanging off the back of a Win 2. I have four of those 128GB ultra fit flash drives. I did buy one of these but it heated up almost inhumanly quickly, burning my fingers after about one minute of being plugged in, so I just threw it out. If anyone finds a good USB hub that can hold 4 drives and hang off the back of the Win without issue, let me know.

Well 1. if it attacked your monitor, you should get it to stop. 2. If that's the case, why not get a little usb hub so the cable is down on the actual table instead of going in the air.

Yeah, that's understandable. I was just trying to think of a second best since I'm not sure what you are looking for exist. At least those readers would be cheap to replace and it's cool to be able to take one on the go (not sure what kind of work you do with them). Maybe you can figure out a decent looking setup on your desk with something like this. I've used a bunch of Anker products and they have been pretty good. Good luck with the search otherwise!

Sorry for late response was studying. I actually have a lot of compressed air just laying around so that won't be a problem. But I actually was going to get a USB pass through just a smaller one since I don't need too many ports and the strip I have has USB charging ports on it. And I was going to wait on the headphone hanger to see if it should be on the desk or underneath depending on how crowded the desk is. Thank you so much for your reply!

This is the one I used for my laptop: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-4-Port-Portable-Aluminum-2-Foot/dp/B00O0KISQE/ref=pd_sim_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00O0KISQE&pd_rd_r=489QEWG9DFFXEM0F6PWJ&pd_rd_w=usKGN&pd_rd_wg=cAAL4&psc=1&refRID=489QEWG9DFFXEM0F6PWJ

Idk about the one you were looking at personally, but I can vouch for the one I just put up there. However, I have since switched from laptop to tower gaming and have been using this one since the power adapter didn't matter to me: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=twister_B00FB50S0Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I have never tried an extension of the USB cable, but I have actually used a longer HDMI cable. You could potentially get a longer HDMI cable to plug your laptop into a central location or a location near your chairs and then plug the controllers in that way. Unfortunately I have no experience with USB extensions so I don't want to misguide you with any guesses.

Why use the TB => USB-3 adapter when the 2014 Mac Mini has USB 3.0 natively? Not all of the USB devices can possibly be using max USB 3.0 bandwidth right? Take the low bandwidth USB 3.0 devices and put them on a USB 3.0 Hub.

I'm using a 4 port hub to plug in a usb drive and a charging cable on the passenger side front usb port. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O0KISQE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. $18.

Awesome, glad to hear that you're studying the suggestion.

I would probably suggest that you buy a simple USB 3.0 hub. I assume that you need this for external storage?
You can buy USB 3.0 PCI-e cards as well, but this eats up an expansion slot. I highly recommend to just buy a wired hub. You'll lose one port on the rear of the motherboard and get 4 or more in return.
With easy access as well!

---

It's actually not difficult at all. Of course, nothing is when you know what to do.

Building a PC is pretty much building something with lego, with a couple extra wires.

I personally can build a system in 20 minutes time, if I don't care too much about it being tidy.
But I recommend that you take a Saturday or Sunday afternoon for it. It will probably take you around 3 to 4 hours.

If you watch my "how to build an Intel PC" guide. You'll be able to see everything that needs to be done. It's a fairly long video because it goes into detail for pretty much everything. Including installing windows. Nothing really changed since 2013, I would even argue that it got easier.

If you want me to help with building. I could probably make some time free to go into detail for your exact build. I've written step by step guides for friends before in Word.

All you really need is time, a (magnetic) screwdriver and preferably a laptop so that you can watch the build guide and follow along.

---

Edit: ow.. Right, I didn't post my guides yet! Sorry, I'll post it when I'm done with work later tonight.
Couple hours hopefully.

If you can't wait, click on my name. You'll find my post history, where you can scroll down a bit.
Eventually you should find an other suggestion where I've posted my guides as well as other videos that explain common questions.

I guess it's easier to understand if I link some stuff.

You can get something like this cable, this adapter, this hub, or anything else that looks similar. They all do the same thing so it doesn't really matter which. Any of them can connect to the bottom of the Switch to let you plug USB stuff in. Switch has the same kind of port (it's called USB-C) as the recent Macbooks so a lot of these things say they're for Macbook but they work with Switch too.

Only some USB LAN adapters work with Switch. Here's a few examples: HORI, Plugable, Cable Matters, AmazonBasics. Any of these work the same so get whichever one you can. They all work with the dock too.

If you don't care about using a LAN adapter with your dock at all, you could also get this LAN adapter instead which plugs directly into the Switch without needing another adapter, but you cannot use it when the Switch is docked.

I actually think your best bet would be an USB drive. They offer faster speeds at the same (or less) cost. If you think Samsung works best with Samsung products, I recommend you this paired up with this adapter

Why is it better? The SD card gives you 95MB/s (Lots of Android apps can't be sent to your SD Card (without rooting) because they are really slow, imagine that using an OS such as Ubuntu/Debian) and 128GB for $81.38. The USB drive + adapter gives you 128GB, 150MB/s and an adapter for other things other than your drive for $49.94.

If you think losing an USB slot is just too much, you can always buy this hub instead of the adapter. Total: $57.94

Anker is a well-liked brand.

I purchased: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Portable-Macbook-Devices/dp/B00XU6IMWY/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1502716367&sr=1-6&keywords=USB+C+Hub

I'm hoping to at least get enough bandwidth / power for two sensors.

I have two sensors hooked up to this https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Portable-Macbook-Devices/dp/B00XU6IMWY and it's working perfectly.

Ah I hear ya, thank you for the answers

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Portable-Macbook-Devices/dp/B00XU6IMWY

is it this one?

I use this hub with a Jeda charger.

2tb western Digital ssd, 400gb micro sd. then I use a mini hub from Sabrent (https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Premium-Aluminum-Rotatable-HB-R3MC/dp/B013XGK53E) and with that I use 3 mini micro sd card readers where I again use my other 3 micro sd cards of 400gb. I also have a usb enclosure for my 512gb ssd that I velcro attach to my screen and either plug it directly into the USB port or into the mini hub. so all in all I have about 4tb of storage

Turns out I found one further down the results list of a different Amazon search. It didn't come up under "slim USB hub" or anything like that. I ordered this one, gonna give it a try

Where'd you get the 3 port one from? 3 would be perfect, I do not need 4. Also, did you need the power adapter? Thanks!

EDIT: Is it this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013XGK53E/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_18_w

I've got two of these, working fine so far: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B013XGK53E

I have been using this usb splitter on my model 3: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013XGK53E/, its been working very well for me. Also make sure you use a fast usb drive ( I use https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D7SX9NS/ and have had no issues). Don't think you need the data blocker that other people have noted, but it definitely does not hurt.

If that cable is CAT5 or better you could just do PoE to this box with something like this and a PoE switch on the other end of it.

​

https://www.amazon.com/microUSB-Raspberry-WT-AF-5v10w-Right-Angle/dp/B019BLMWWW

​

Edit: Also, the Ring Keypad can run up to 7 months w/o a charge. I installed my Ring alarm system last weekend and as of right now, have no intention of running power to the keypad.

before there were raspberry pies, i used DreamPlugs for this purpose. i'd send one to customer with network problems and let it monitor the network and periodically send me diagnostics data.

i'd also use it to ssh in via openvpn and perform manual scans, maintenance, etc. these days, i'd just use raspi for that. much cheaper and not as outdated.

you'll need something like this too:
http://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Ethernet-MicroUSB-Raspberry-WT-AF-5v10w/dp/B019BLMWWW

edit: there are much nicer and smaller poe to microusb splitters, i'm just too lazy to search now. i bought mine for 5 EUR and it is absolutely tiny. just search the usual dodgy places like dealextreme, aliexpress, banggood, etc..

I've been using these at distances up to probably 500+ft reliably:
https://www.amazon.com/microUSB-Splitter-Ethernet-Raspberry-WT-AF-5v10w/dp/B019BLMWWW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1467925601&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+poe+splitter

I have that injector for cameras and it works well, though for cameras I wish I just had a Poe switch. For your application it should work much better.


That same company makes USB splitters that would be what you need to power it at the sensor side.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019BLMWWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_18eFybEAT1HWF

> Poe raspberry pi

Okay, it is possible but requires a hat. Most of those are too tall to fit in the bay. This one might be good if it actually existed and someone was selling it. This is an option though and could be made to fit in the enclosure. Only thing left is some sort of quick connect for the Ethernet.

If you don't care about having a usable ethernet port, https://store.ui.com/products/instant-802-3af-to-usb-adaptor


Otherwise, something like the other people posted. I use this one https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B019BLMWWW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to power and provide networking to a Raspberry Pi. Although it was much cheaper when I bought it...

1.1GHz Intel Core M
8GB RAM
256GB SSD

Pictures: http://imgur.com/a/p1pmW

USB Hub (Included): https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Type-C-MacBook-12-Inch-Charging/dp/B019PHF9UY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468752757&sr=8-1&keywords=satechi+usb+c+hub

Incase Shell (included):http://www.apple.com/shop/product/HJUP2ZM/A/incase-12-hardshell-case-for-macbook-rose?fnode=89c370a728f8da286798a7756a30f5371567030e58ca5d4462628a91aed20d89a7a68468d69e8e690862b535c63ed721fccd95afd8f041d4d77fdb88e8164258ff2facf18726241c565b59de08c67a670a9adb0cf5921f143729d6c7b7798099

Not pictured: extra USB-C cable

https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Aluminum-Type-C-Combo-Pass-Through/dp/B019PHF9UY/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_147_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=G95CSJ7NBQGW5VTJFR8G - Thats the hub.

From my camera its a Micro-USB to a USB C, and from my external HDD, it's a USB Micro-B to USB.

Satechi Type-C USB 3.0 3 in 1 Combo Hub for MacBook 12-Inch (with USB -C Charging Port) (Space Gray) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019PHF9UY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5eiNybFSF3740

does this one have enough space to be plugged in on the lower port and still have space for the charging cable to be plugged into top one?

Satechi Type-C USB 3.0 3 in 1 Combo Hub for MacBook 12-Inch (with USB -C Charging Port) (Space Gray) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B019PHF9UY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qjfxzbXGP8JMJ

So, I was looking into reviews of products from this brand and there are some really really bad reviews :( Should I still buy it? Check:

https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Type-C-MacBook-Charging-Silver/dp/B019PHF9W2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499533860&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=satechi+usb+c&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Type-C-Combo-MacBook-Charging/dp/B019PHF9UY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1499533860&sr=8-5&keywords=satechi+usb+c

I got this thing: https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Type-C-MacBook-12-Inch-Charging/dp/B019PHF9UY/ref=pd_sim_147_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VSTEN37TF1YVRP7GVD1B

Looks nice, and will get me through the transition.

I use the adapter, it's pricey but does the job well. No complaints from me. I explored other options like the Satechi adapter, which I also own. It's generally been a disappointing product. I feel it would have been trivial for them to include USB C for charging pass-through, and it has random disconnects. Satechi has promised me a replacement but that only solves the disconnect issue and not the missing charging port.

Edit: the Satechi hub doesn't have HDMI, I forgot about that.

Edit 2:
Good news. Satechi has updated their adapter to include USB C now. I'll have to purchase the updated one to see if it works out better for me. It was an ideal form factor but the missing USB C was a problem.

New:

http://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Type-C-MacBook-12-Inch-Charging/dp/B019PHF9UY/

Original:

http://www.amazon.com/Satechi®-Type-c-USB-3-0-Combo/dp/B015YRD8MA/

If third parties can Mac USB type c adapters like this, Apple can make one with two lighting ports.

USB:USB C Hub 1 This is my desktop one

Hub 2 This is my travel one

This one works great for me https://www.amazon.com/Inspira-Recharging-MacBook-Chromebook-Devices/dp/B01GKSPMCQ/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492816192&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=travel+inspiria+usb-c

I'm on linux, it does video, charging, ethernet keyboard, mouse all in one usb-c :)

This one is $30 but I have had no problems with:

[Travel Inspira USB-C HDMI Hub, USB-C to HDMI Hub with USB 3.0 Port and USB-C Recharging Port for MacBook, Chromebook Pixel and More Type C Devices] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GKSPMCQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_GSzl5EWR9hdvf)

This one I got for $10 and is also great for quick USB port usage, including charging:

[nonda USB-C to USB 3.0 Mini Adapter [World's Smallest] Aluminum Body with Indicator LED for Macbook Pro 2016, MacBook 12-inch and other Type-C Devices (Space Gray)] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015Z7XE0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_whK6yb7G1D16G)

I don't know if they'll power your external HDD but they do suffice for charging my S7 Edge so I don't see why they wouldn't charge an iPhone.

What I'm expecting is a USB-C port on the bottom of the Switch tablet and a USB-C power adapter included in the box.

The dock itself will have a USB-C male port facing upwards that goes into the tablet when the tablet is slid into the dock and the dock will also have a USB-C female port on the back that the charger is plugged into.

The dock will also have an HDMI output port on the back, two USB ports on the side, and possibly two more USB ports on the back. The single USB-C connector on the tablet can provide for all that as USB-C can simultaneously do video output, charging, and USB connectivity too. The dock will need some simple electronics in it like a USB hub and maybe something for the video.

When you're on the go, you can unplug the AC adapter from the dock and take it with you to plug directly into the Switch's USB-C port to charge it. If we're lucky, Nintendo will use a very standard implementation of USB-C which would allow someone to use a dongle like this for traveling.

Yeah, that's what I thought as well.

Is it possible to use a USB-C to HDMI Adapter and use the USB-C instead?

Maybe something like this to be able to charge it while connected to a monitor? https://www.amazon.com/Travel-Inspira-Recharging-MacBook-Chromebook/dp/B01GKSPMCQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1483157142&sr=8-6&keywords=usb+c+hub+hdmi

Yes, i ordered one that works 100% off Amazon for $16.99 and it includes a c-type charger port and USB-A Port...

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GKSPMCQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've not tested the desktop mode (not enrolled in the beta) but can't see why it wouldn't work with this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GKSPMCQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I've been able to screen mirror with it. I can also do power+video+data through it.

Ok, I'll do you one better. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-3-1-Type-C-Port/dp/B01M4J1DDP/ref=sxin_3_pb?keywords=USB-c+hub&pd_rd_i=B01M4J1DDP&pd_rd_r=05171cff-858b-45e1-bd2d-7be1928c326f&pd_rd_w=xglHg&pd_rd_wg=KFhU0&pf_rd_p=9ef0c97a-254b-445c-822b-c948e2d94ddd&pf_rd_r=84T2BVJNK0PFASVSZD88&qid=1566600875&s=gateway
There's a hub without a built-in ethernet interface and there's a review confirming that it worked on the Switch. Just buy a separate Ethernet adapter too. The problem with the Anker is probably that the Switch OS just doesn't support that particular Ethernet interface.

I think you'd be best off getting a good USB mouse and keyboard, and connecting them to your computer with a USB to USB-C hub. Here's the first one I found on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-3-1-Type-C-Port/dp/B01M4J1DDP

I’m using USB-C, which uses USB 3.1 and provides more than adequate power to run the peripherals. You can see the back shot image here: https://ibb.co/pRMJ69M

I’m using this extension (so I don’t always have to go behind the tower of my machine to plug in) paired with this USB-C hub. Works like a champ.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074K318JK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JDJzCb9JWTFBM

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M4J1DDP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

You’ll also want to consider running this batch file. Your devices may be running in Windows 10 with “Enhanced Power Management”. This disables that for Logitech / Saitek Peripherals.

http://uraster.com/en-us/products/usbenhancedpowermanagerdisabler.aspx

Or would something like this work as well? - https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-3-1-Type-C-Port/dp/B01M4J1DDP since the mac has a thunderbolt 3 port

I am trying to invest the least on these things as I am on a tight budget and I can only afford so much. I tried looking around and I am unable to find a proper answer, hence this is my only forum.

Wasn't sure if I could link it so I just copied to the title. Here is a non-referral link

Yeah, you have a Thunderbolt port (and a USB C port) . Why not use em.

This is what I use.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M4J1DDP/

Hey the HyperDrive HyperDrive USB C Hub, Best Type-C DUO Adapter 50Gbps for MacBook Pro 2017/2016 13" 15", 7in2: USB-C 100W Power Delivery, USBC 5Gbps Data, 4K HDMI, microSD/SD Card Reader, 2xUSB 3.1 Ports by SANHO https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUAEI7J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4UkGAbKPHRB5S

I use it for dual monitors, 1 HDMI and 1 usb c to HDMI, has a pass through as well 😀

Late reply but I just went through this (with a non touchbar model, so I was even more limited).

You have 4 ports on your computer, so get two of these:

Cable Matters USB C to HDMI Cable (USB-C to HDMI Cable) Supporting 4K 60Hz in Black 6 Feet - Thunderbolt 3 Port Compatible for Macbook Pro, Dell XPS 13/15 and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073H9RG9T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6824AbZ8VV161

If you would still like a dock, get the HyperDrive 7 port dock with the dual plug:

HyperDrive USB C Hub, Best Type-C DUO Adapter 50Gbps for MacBook Pro 2017/2016 13" 15", 7in2: USB-C 100W Power Delivery, USBC 5Gbps Data, 4K HDMI, microSD/SD Card Reader, 2xUSB 3.1 Ports by SANHO https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUAEI7J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_w524AbVRYRNC6

If you get the dock, you can still get two of the above cables or alternatively just get one and the use a regular HDMI for the other. I would recommend this because it’s cheaper and it frees up one more USB C port for whatever you need it for. You’re only going to be using HDMI out for a display.

Basically, each port on the machine only supports one separate display out unless you get an actual TB3 dock (expensive).

Remember: Friends & Family/Gift payments, Venmo, gift cards, Zelle and cryptocurrency are non-refundable and offer NO BUYER PROTECTION. - If as a buyer, you choose to pay through the "Friends and Family" option, or agree to send Gift Cards, Venmo, or cryptocurrency as payment, please understand that you will not be able to open a claim should something go wrong in the transaction.

Title: [USA-WA] [H] Mid 2017 15” MacBook Pro w/Touchbar [W] Trades, Paypal

Username: /u/KledMosby

Body:

Sold to /u/TheRealChironX for $1450

~~Bought this last July for school. It's literally sitting on my desk serving as an expensive paper weight. I am mostly looking for trades, however, I will consider selling it flat out as well. If you have an offer, shoot. I Have other needs/interests at the moment.



I have a mid 2017 15" MacBook Pro w/Touchbar. Here are the specs and timestamps:



Timestamps: https://imgur.com/a/Z07PxB3



Specs:



Serial Number: C02V23L5HTD5

Storage: 256 GB SSD

RAM: 16GBs

CPU: Core i7 2.8ghz-3.8ghz

GPU: Radeon Pro 555

Storage: 256 GB ssd Ram: 16 GB ram Cpu: Core i7 quad-core 2.8-38ghz Gpu: Radeon Pro 555

Battery Cycles (will probably fluctuate by a few cycles): 76




Your soon to be MacBook Pro comes with:



OEM Charger and OEM USB C cable, and original box



Dbrand Carbon Fiber Skin on the top and bottom, as well as a matte black skin on the trackpad. (I have an extra of each of these that I will send to you).



Screen and TouchBar Protector (I think I also have an extra of each of these).


USB C to USB A adapter: https://www.amazon.com/nonda-Adapter-Thunderbolt-Aluminum-Indicator/dp/B015Z7XE0A/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=usb+c+to+usb+aa&qid=1560219346&s=gateway&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=8-8


USB C Dock: [https://www.amazon.com/HyperDrive-Type-C-Adapter-50Gbps-MacBook/dp/B01MUAEI7J/ref=sr\_1\_1\_sspa?crid=2DN162SAZE0Y9&keywords=macbook+hyperdrive&qid=1560219276&s=gateway&sprefix=macbook+hyper%2Caps%2C195&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1](https://www.amazon.com/




All of these "protective items" have been on my Mac since the day it came out of the box, which has allowed it to stay in pristine condition.


Things I would like:


PC Components/Builds

• Complete gaming PC builds
  
• 9900k + Compatible motherboard + (possible) cash
  
• 9900x + Compatible motherboard
  
• EK (or other) water-cooling components (has to be enough for a full loop, with either LGA1151 or x299 block, either a 1080ti or 2080ti block (we'll have to talk about compatibility in regards to the block), PETG tubing (if you have any), and fittings.
  
  
  Camera Equipment:
  
  
• Sony Alpha a6500 + (possible) cash depending on what you have (tripods, lenses, etc...)
  
• DLSRs, videography equipment
  
  
  
  Note: Once again, I'm not really looking to sell this outright, but if I did it would be for around $1600 + shipping.
  
  
  
  I'm more than willing to talk with you all. Shoot me offers I won't roast you. I will also be taking videos at the post office just to make sure that no one gets burned. Shipping WILL be insured.
  
  Edit: Price lowered to $1450 shipped~~
  
  
  I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.

hyperdrive USB C hub Pro

That looks like a good idea. Is something like this a good idea/ https://www.amazon.com/HyperDrive-Type-C-Adapter-50Gbps-MacBook/dp/B01MUAEI7J/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1536593731&sr=1-8&keywords=usb+c+dock

Hyperdrive no doubt in my mind: https://www.amazon.com/HyperDrive-Type-C-Adapter-50Gbps-MacBook/dp/B01MUAEI7J

I am using a HyperDrive: Amazon, and have no problems doing two 1080p screens with an HDMI-HDMI and Type C-HDMI cable plugged into the top/back type C Port. This leaves another type C Port for charging and adds two USB ports and a card reader. Bit of an eyesore but I only use it at the desk anyways.

I went the opposite direction. I chose Mac, and my work gave me a 15" pro with 4 ports, and this dual usb hub. So far, it has been a pretty smooth experience. I have (almost) fully gotten used to the keyboard, and the trackpad experience makes me wish KDE had such an experience oob. Being able to triple finger swipe across different workspaces is godsend. The whole os feels like Elementary OS in how restrictive it is (ironic). Simple things like setting up a custom shortcut require tedious workarounds, but with all that said, it is still at least a 100 times better than Windows (with Linux being 500 times better). You literally can't pay me to use Windows.

I'd definitely recommend a port hub since Apple loves taking ports away. This one by Hyper Drive had a good selection of ports: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUAEI7J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TtmMDb7CEV2FW

Also, you should know that you can't replace anything inside a 2019 MacBook Air. Storage, Ram, battery, screen, nothing. So if anything breaks or needs to be upgraded, you're gonna have to go get it fixed every time.

No problem, glad to help!

> I think I'm going to grab a USB-C to HDMI cable so I can hook my MacBook up to the TV

Quick thing, consider getting a Thunderbolt 3 hub, like this one, for example. These little devices allow you to get the most out of your MacBook's Thunderbolt ports buy expanding them to several supported ports, whilst still including at least one full-bandwidth Thunderbolt 3 port. this way, instead of having to get specific USB-C or Thunderbolt 3 compatible wires or adapters, you could just natively connect whatever wires you have to a hub. There's plenty of options for your to choose from, some of which focus on multi-screen output, some of which focus on data transfer, and some that feature a general-user port selection.

> Do you just play on your MacBook sometimes? [...] What games do you mainly play on MacBook with your wheel?

Personally, I pretty much only play PC exclusives on my Mac. I do play Euro Truck Simulator 2 on my MacBook, but unfortunately, The Thrustmaster T80 and T300 wheels I have aren't compatible with macOS or Linux, so I just use a PS3 controller.

However, I can confirm that the G29 [is compatible with macOS and ETS2](https://www.logitechg.com/en-us/products/driving/driving-force-racing-wheel.html#product-tech-specs, along with other titles on Mac.

> Do you find it gets too hot?

It used to, but not anymore.

This may be a bit more advanced, but you can manage your system's thermal performance. Step one would be to get a fan controller app, such at TG Pro, which is what I use. The main issue with thermal performance with Macs is that Apple tries to keep the fan speed as low as possible, to keep the system as quiet as possible... even to a fault. A fan controller app will let you set your notebook's fan speeds with your own custom settings, so whilst it may definitely get louder, you won't have to worry about it burning from the inside out, or at least not worry about thermal throttling.

Step 2, if you so dare, would be to replace the thermal paste in your MacBook. Apple's stock thermal paste is relatively weak at transferring heat (as a trade off for lasting longer), so you may want to consider replacing it with aftermarket, high-quality paste, such as Artic MX-4. High-quality doesn't mean expensive in this case, as a tube of good paste can have at least 10 uses' worth for 3euro - 10euro.

However, keep in mind that taking apart a 2013 and up MacBook isn't easy, and it can technically void your Apple warranty. But if you do decide to undergo the task, it'll unlock your system's full potential. I've done both of these, and now my system never goes above 90°C under full-load.

> Unrelated side note: The buyers guide and support you provide in this community is outstanding and I'd love to support you by purchasing on Amazon through your affiliate link, if that's okay?

Oh, we don't use affiliate links. All of the Buyer's Guide links are standard URLs, the same as anyone else would get. All of the work I put into the subreddit is unpaid.

I've thought about requesting affiliate links a few times so I could fund community events, but I worry about the conflict of interest, especially for when we get new moderators. I really appreciate the thought, though!

_____

^(I'd totally appreciate a gift card donation, though :P)

No just no -- You want the HyperDrive

https://www.amazon.com/HyperDrive-Type-C-Adapter-50Gbps-MacBook/dp/B01MUAEI7J

I don't own any yet but I am debating between the Hootoo one and this one, which seems to be unavailable right now. I have heard the Hootoo one heats up more than it should, and how the logo light can be kind of annoying. This one apparently heats up less according to the reviews.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXKJC4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_50rDybF6GT276

I did a lot of looking and this video by Matt Granger convinced me to get the CharJenPro - it’s $50.
https://youtu.be/XZSnRjDRrvY

https://www.amazon.com/CERTIFIED-CharJenPro-USB-C-ADAPTER-Aluminum-body/dp/B01MXKJC4M/ref=as_li_ss_tl?tag=mattgranphot-20&ie=UTF8&qid=1497903700&sr=8-1&keywords=charjen+usb+c&linkId=e11ca1b69366ed0eb425e36d85b1c132

OK. You'll need a USB C to DVI adapter if you're connecting directly from the Mac or if you get a USB C hub with HDMI then you'd need an HDMI to DVI cable. The hub I use (Hootoo) has an HDMI port that works fine with my secondary DVI monitor.

This one seems to have good reviews and they claim to be US made.

It has USB C power delivery so you can connect your MBP to it and get power and charging. It has HDMI port which you can connect to your monitor. The only issue with these are that HDMI is only supported at 4K@30hz refresh rate. Not an issue if you're not using it for gaming. You'd get a better refresh rate (and a higher resolution) if you connected your MBP directly with a USB C-DVI cable but you'd have to make 2 connections (HUB power, USB C-DVI cable) every time you "dock".

Don't worry about Thunderbolt - if you're not connecting to a USB C monitor it's not relevant.

I got this adaptor and it's been great:

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MXKJC4M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have this USB-C hub and it works extremely well. Also nice that it has a wide variety of ports including:
- HDMI
- 3 USB 3.0 ports

- An SD Card Reader

- A Thunderbolt-3 Hub

- USBC Hub

I just bought this for my 2017 MBP, has everything I need and I'm a fan of the connection cord as it doesn't obscure the other port.

So this has only 2 USB2.0 ports, but that's enough for M&KB. Fits your budget pretty well too :)

Another option would be using this with a second hub that features all the other ports you need. It's small and relatively cheap, so all in all you could still keep your budget. You're also more flexible this way, although you'll need two dongles...

My writeup at https://www.reddit.com/r/thinkpad/wiki/newdocks mentions two:

>
https://www.gearbest.com/cables-connectors/pp_1639879.html or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y5N3YCD/ use this if you need a single DisplayPort (4K @ 60 Hz) and USB 2.0 is enough. Typical monitor + keyboard scenario.

Nevermind, I was looking at USB-C to DisplayPort cables and found a company that offers 60hz with 2USB 2.0 ports and 100mb Ethernet port. It only has 1 review though but it’s positive

Cable Matters USB C Multiport Adapter (USB C Dock with USB C to DisplayPort 4K 60Hz), 2X USB 2.0, Fast Ethernet, and 60W PD in Black - USB-C & Thunderbolt 3 Port Compatible for MacBook Pro and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y5N3YCD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0P6-BbA0007EW

Ok, ok awesome then. I'll get this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Multiport-DisplayPort-Ethernet/dp/B06Y5N3YCD/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

OK, so after quite a bit more testing (I got some weird data yesterday, so I wanted to double-check with multiple adapters etc. today before sharing my response), I have the following for you:

|Monitor|Cable Matters Hub|DA200 hub|D6000 Dock|
|:-|:-:|:-:|:-:|
|Samsung 4k (DisplayPort)|Works|N/A|Works ^(DisplayLink)|
|Samsung 4k (DP to HDMI cable)|Broken|N/A (No DisplayPort)|Works ^(DisplayLink) |
|ViewSonic 1080p monitor (DP to HDMI)|Broken|N/A|Works ^(DisplayLink) |
|ViewSonic 1080p (HDMI)| N/A (DP-only) | Works | Works |

I also tested with a 1080p Samsung TV and got the same results as the ViewSonic 1080p monitor. With the hardware I have, it seems to only occur when the internal GPU tries to do any HDMI-over-DisplayPort. Do you have any examples that contradict this?

in edit2. so did you success with the product?

usb-c to display port(4k/60) with power charge?

​

I'm using this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y5N3YCD/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 on my X1C5 on the USBC/Thunderbolt port and it works perfectly. It is limited though in that it does not do multiple monitors it only does one. But for my use case Monitor, Keyboard, mouse and power it was perfect. Oh yes it supplies power to your laptop and I just plug my normal power supply into the doc which then feeds the laptop.

Forgot to add I have plugged it in and out while power is on with out issues with Linux. Sorry I have not tried windows so not sure if it will work under windows.

What about a splitter? Looks like your transmitter has a USB out.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JTSMVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_omn0Bb7899D6M

this one works for iPhones. The other one linked doesn’t charge iOS devices.

sandisk extreme cz80 16gb

working fine, hasn't corrupted at all, used for 9 days and was able to pull footage from it

EDIT

I use it with another flash drive for music using this usb hub so i can still charge my phone on the other

https://amazon.com/dp/B071JTSMVQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf&sa-no-redirect=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JTSMVQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


This has worked for me.


Only downside is if you want to use 2 8bitdo adapters. But you can do that and a wired Controller and everything works just fine.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JTSMVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ilR5CbEG54B2N

I bought a small USB hub online that was recommended here but the Model 3 is not recognizing the USB drive for Dashcam recording unless it’s directly plugged into the car. Anyone know any solutions?

Onvian 3 Port USB Hub High... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JTSMVQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

SanDisk Cruzer 256GB USB 2.0 Flash Drive (SDCZ36-256G-B35) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EHG3GVM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zaFWBb70T7CEN

EDIT: I’m an idiot and figured this out: https://imgur.com/a/677Qj8y

I use this with a usb mouse and keyboard when I'm on vacation and staying in a hotel, works perfectly.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-MacBook-Output-MicroSD-2-Ports/dp/B074J79WWJ/ref=sr_1_9?crid=341QKPE00E74P&keywords=usb+c+to+hdmi&qid=1549657964&sprefix=usb+%2Caps%2C260&sr=8-9

I was able to boot Windows 10 with my SSD plugged into this hub. Windows seems to run as fast as it does when the drive is plugged directly into the MacBook Pro. I plugged a Xbox One controller into the second USB port and it was recognized and worked fine. I didn’t have a lot of time to use it so I can’t say if it will have issues after extended use.

Ah. I use this usb hub for when I’m using my mbp I will agree that the usb c is annoying but it’s really nice at my home setup as I use 3 monitors and speakers and power with one cable going to a usb hub.


USB C HDMI Adapter for MacBook... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074J79WWJ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I've tried the Dell TB16 and couldn't get it to produce video on my external monitor. It worked for everything else (USB ports and powering my MacBook). For now, I'm using a Dell WD15 dock as a USB hub and power, but use a cheap USB-C dongle with HDMI port to connect to my external monitor.

Ok.. here's my final update. I found another monitor it's more expensive but it is 4k and better on my eyes for coding. I am not coding at UHD resolution though - I'm coding at the 1920x1080 so I can read the text lol.

However for video or such i can switch it back to UHD and enjoy an amazing picture..

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XPJYVF2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And then the doc for my office I am using ( one monitor on usb-c and one on display port)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CZPV8DF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The mini doc i use for traveling around which has my usb adapter for my travel mouse and connects to the hdmi monitor at home is :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074J79WWJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

All are working great!

Developer mode is set and reset by opening up the case and pressing a small button on the motherboard. To get out of developer mode you will also need a powered USB hub (like this one https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Delivery-Charging-Chromebook/dp/B07DD8BLJW) and a thumb drive loaded with the original firmware.

Here is a link to the instructions: https://github.com/marcosscriven/galeforce/wiki/How-to-reset-to-normal-mode

However your hint was great I'm going with this one:

https://www.amazon.de/Anker-Adapter-Delivery-MacBook-ChromeBook/dp/B07DD8BLJW/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=ce-de&ie=UTF8&qid=1542825982&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=Anker+3-in-1+USB+C+Hub%2C+4K+USB+C+to+HDMI+Adapter%2C+USB+3.0%2C+with+60W+Power+Delivery+Charging+Port+for+MacBook+Pro+2016%2F2017%2F2018%2C+iPad+Pro+2018%2C+Chromebook%2C+XPS%2C+and+More

These are just a few I found. Remember to double check their compatibility with macOS as well as checking other websites for better prices.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q3HP6KQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_r1tnDbAGSRGJM

https://www.apple.com/shop/product/HMX12ZM/A/caldigit-ts3-plus-dock?fnode=c868dc03b71d7658bc70482dcfd71f3ad98e49adb6d191cb71a0e446bcb747d0ee198d2d9c99ddbbd7990fc33788bc9e5b24fc1f1eace61b70350d35161a7ab789dad2cb6e61d2fa25e9a1a8899d1534639f7d5c4ee1379a1c24f53c842016ed

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HMLTCPL/ref=emc_b_5_t

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DD8BLJW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8\&psc=1

\^\^\^ I personally have this and use it with my XPS 13. Since it’s just usbc I believe that it should work universally.

​

Edit: incorrect spelling

Sure, you just need a USB-C hub that has a power delivery (PD) USB-C port. Amazon has quite a few. This is the one I'm using on my 2017 MBP. I run my USB C power through this, as well as an HDMI cable ... and this connects through a single USB port on my MBP. fwiw though... this hub does act up sometimes with the monitor so you might want to check reviews.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Delivery-Charging-Chromebook/dp/B07DD8BLJW/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=anker+usbc+hub&qid=1556213211&s=gateway&sr=8-7

I’m pretty sure, although I can’t really find anything conclusive. I posted on the Lenovo forums, but they just redirected me to a thread where it was never resolved. I think for some reason the 13” can charge over USB-C but not the 15” I have.

Thank you. Do you mean a dock/hub like this one?

On my iPad Pro, I can use my Logitech keyboard and mouse, hdmi monitor plugged into a USB C hub

The only problem I had was the display is letter boxed and the mouse is nerfed of course.

It’s getting close but surface still performs better as a full fledged desktop on its own.

But with Shadow, high speed internet with wireless AC a raspberry pi and virtual here for mouse support, you can gain that full desktop experience on the iPad Pro though. I’m really hoping shadow somehow adds support for Bluetooth mice on the iPad. That would remove a significant technical step.

I've recorded using the predecessor to this adapter without any problem.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Reader-MacBook-Chromebook/dp/B07H4VQ4BZ/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=usb+c+adapter&qid=1563734374&s=gateway&sr=8-10

​

I just the PreSonus 24c that is a direct USB-C connection and I'm happy so far.

I am not tech savvy at all when it comes to additional gadgets like this, I went on amazon found this:
Anker USB C Hub, 5-in-1 USB C Adapter, with 4K USB C to HDMI, SD/TF Card Reader, 2 USB 3.0 Ports, for MacBook Pro 2016/2017/2018, Chromebook, Xps, and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H4VQ4BZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FP93Cb1KNT15P

Is this what you are talking about?

I tried Anker 5 in 1 usb c hub.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H4VQ4BZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rEXRDbQ0QDQGK

Which hub do you use?

Here is a USB-C hub that might work.

https://smile.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Reader-MacBook-Chromebook/dp/B07H4VQ4BZ/ref=pd_cp_147_1/136-1763447-5920729?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07H4VQ4BZ&pd_rd_r=d79126a7-5b59-43ad-b04e-5f8e76ec2607&pd_rd_w=UgW39&pd_rd_wg=stboT&pf_rd_p=0e5324e1-c848-4872-bbd5-5be6baedf80e&pf_rd_r=85WWQDSA04Y6XH09HWC9&psc=1&refRID=85WWQDSA04Y6XH09HWC9

I bought an Anker hub for my MacBook. It was around $25 I think on Amazon. So far I’ve had no issues with WiFi connectivity.

I got this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H4VQ4BZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_k101Db14FG4H7

I’ll probably never use the SD card slots, but whatever.

I am currently using an Anker Classic 3-in-1. It only does Power Delivery, HDMI, and 1 USB-A port. It is all I need for now, but I am thinking of getting one with ethernet. I agree that I would not trust the cheap Chinese products with power delivery. Satechi is a good brand, just so expensive. I trust Anker products, they have always worked well for me.

Current: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RN6RTXD/ref=sr_1_10?camp=217145&creative=399373&creativeASIN=B07RN6RTXD&ie=UTF8&linkCode=as2&sr=1-10&tag=ianker-20

Near Future: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PPGWQ15/ref=sr_1_10?camp=217145&creative=399373&creativeASIN=B07PPGWQ15&ie=UTF8&linkCode=as2&sr=1-10&tag=ianker-20

Anker USB C Hub (Model AK-A83520A1)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-PowerExpand-Delivery-Ethernet-Chromebook/dp/B07PPGWQ15/

£54 so a bit on the expensive side but I figured if it didn't work I could use it with a pc and add a second display or something. This is the model with Gigabit Ethernet first available on Amazon UK on 14 May 2019, there is a different 7-in-1 which swaps the Ethernet for another USB-C port and is £35 (AK-A83460A1) first available from 13 Nov. 2018, there are chipset differences so I have no idea if the cheaper model will work, it ought to but the sheer lack on information is a large part of the problem with finding hubs that work.

Performance is not stellar, but faster than a WiFi transfer for which I get about 10MB/s (80mbps) from both a Ubiquiti Access point using smb and a travel router with hdd attached using ftp. With the initial USB-C to A with USB-C adapter cable I achieved a stable but fluctuating slightly 12MB/s, with the Anker USB-C to USB-C cable I get a stable and consistent 17MB/s (136Mbps).

There is definitely a bottleneck in the hub, I presume this is the fault of the Tab S4 as this hub is designed for Chromebooks and Ultrabooks where a lack of performance would be noticed. When I plug in a usb flash drive directly into the S4 (Lexar P20 capable of over 100MB/s sustained read and write) it maxes out at 50MB/s reading, in the hub it only reaches the same 17MB/s. If you want 50MB/s performance then I'd consider getting a Samsung T5 portable SSD which can be powered by the Tabs S4, unlike portable hdd with spinning platters. If it wasn't for the fact I wanted support for over 1TB of portable storage, which would have doubled my costs, I would probably have gone that route.

One last piece of information which is very important. Writing drivers to transfer from external usb attached storage is apparently very difficult, the vast majority of Android Apps only manage a few MB/s when transferring. Even the increasingly popular MiXplorer v6 over at forums.xda-developers.com the developer was/has been/is struggling with achieving decent transfer speeds.

I've only found two file transfer apps which achieve decent speeds for usb transfers, the first was the infamous ES File Explorer before it was removed from the Play Store, the other is a pay app (cheap though at £3.14) called USB Media Explorer
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.homeysoft.nexususb.importer&hl=en

Looking for a USB-C Hub that has HDMI, SD Card reader and the ability to charge an iPad Pro 12.9 (2018)

Seeing a lot of reviews on amazon on must usb hubs that are conflicted about whether they will charge the ipad pro or not.

This one is the one I am looking at

Thanks

it's this one
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07PPGWQ15/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5.EYDbWERWK1W

In case someone in the future finds this thread:

I wound up returning the Dell XPS 13. One thing I should’ve paid more attention too - especially since I’d mentioned it in my previous post but obviously I ignored my own advice - was the ports.

Of the three laptops, LG Gram is 2.13 lbs for 13.3”, Lenovo Thinkpad X1 Carbon is ~2.5lbs for 14”, and Dell XPS 13 9370 is 2.65. This is important to note because the XPS only has USB-C ports, but the LG and Lenovo have multiple ports, including USB-C and USB 3.0/3.1 ports (USB A).

This is important because in my case, I wanted to do a clean install of Windows 10 on the Dell, but I didn’t have a USB-C thumb drive. I looked into getting a USB-C hub for the laptop (I also needed the hub so I could view my SDHC cards from my DSLR) but discovered that in order for the laptop to charge properly and the hub to work properly, you’d need a 60watt power supply (which is mentioned on the Amazon page.) The power supply you get with the XPS is only 45watts. This may not necessarily be the case for all laptops or hubs, but it was 1AM when I was discovering this so I was fairly tired and annoyed. So I started looking into more powerful power adapters and that’s when I realized I’d wind up with way more weight than I initially wanted.

Which led me to returning the Dell XPS 13. I really liked the build quality, especially the screen and keyboard, but couldn’t justify the extra weight. The laptop is the heaviest of the three I listed, yet has the fewest port options. It makes more sense to go with the LG or Lenovo (though ultimately I’d pick the Lenovo as the LG is super light but the screen seems to flex fairly easily).

Just my two cents and a lesson to everyone to do more research and not be like me.

Personally I'm using this one:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07PPGWQ15/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HHa1DbDDMXQ4Y

Very happy with it.

My refurb MBX Pro didn't come with the Matedock. Instead of buying the Matedock from eBay or Aliexpress I ended up getting this Anker hub. It does power passthrough even while connected to external display. Recommend it:

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerExpand-Delivery-Ethernet-Chromebook/dp/B07PPGWQ15

You could get a USB C dock which is much cheaper, but only comes with one video output. So for two monitors you'd need the dock and another adapter or dock for your other monitor. Up to you if you want to save money or have less cables.

EDIT: the HDMI to USB C adapter you linked is supposedly thunderbolt 3 so it should be able to power two monitors too. But you still need some way to convert USB A from your KVM to USB C for your macbook.

Ive tried out a few. If you want a nice affordable one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07TVSLDND?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

And then there's this one that's quite a bit more:
https://www.amazon.com/HyperDrive-Adapter-MacBook-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B07S7LVDC9/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=USB+c+hub+hyperdrive+ethernet&qid=1572309948&sr=8-3

Great points, thank you.

The display is 1280x800 which is pretty close to most cell phones - im fine with a little empty space. But good point about the temperatures - can you recommend any 10.1 inch (9-10"x6-7") monitor suitable for the car? I live in ohio so definitely below freezing temps.

The USB hub is pretty generic. This is the one I have picked https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TVSLDND/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?smid=A3BJFHXXMK8OTL&psc=1. I assume the HDMI out will mirror the phone, but if not I can always chromecast to the monitor.

The reason I am going display is because my car (350z) is uniquely suited to a large 10 inch monitor. https://workshoptwelve.com/nissan-350z/ .

In my past experiences, the HU never powers anything anyways - it is just a CD player/ radio. Is the quality between a normal HU playing an mp3 through an aux input any better than my setup?

What I am going for is a way to update my 2003 car, and since everything from music to gps to odb to cameras can be run through a cell phone, why not make that the focus? I could put a tablet instead of a monitor in, but would face many of the same challenges, and it would be less future-proof (a phone in 5 years is going to be faster than a tablet today).

But, the biggest hurdle is being able to charge the phone and use it in host mode at the same time - and if I can't overcome that then the whole thing is kaput.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TVSLDND

USB C Hub, 9-in-1 USB C Adapter with 4K USB C to HDMI,VGA, USB C Charging, 2 USB 3.0, SD/TF Card Reader, USB C to 3.5mm, Gigabit Ethernet, USB C Dock

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-USB-3-0-Hub/dp/B00GGYU8TC
Just as good running 8 + 1 fan. I always leave room for expansion.

You could try this one. The 10 port USB 3.0 version should work with tablets. The other variants mention that they are not suitable for charging tablets where as this variant has pictures of it with tablets plugged in.

How about this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LRYUJQS?ie=UTF8&camp=213733&creative=393185&creativeASIN=B00LRYUJQS&linkCode=shr&tag=skattertech-20&linkId=4WCI34AHMHUBY2IY&qid=1409261171&sr=8-7&keywords=usb+hub

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Adapter-MacBook-ChromeBook/dp/B00XU6IMWY/

Like this?
Cable Matters USB C Multiport Adapter (USB C Hub with DisplayPort 4K 60Hz), 2X USB 2.0, Fast Ethernet, and 60W PD in Black - USB-C and Thunderbolt 3 Port Compatible for MacBook Pro and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y5N3YCD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-W-hDbGP0HH5A

Does anyone have experience with Nintendo licensed refurbished stuff? I am looking to get a second dock and AC adapter on the cheap without bricking the console.

1. Should i spend the money for brand new? or try refurb?
   
   
2. Should i save the money and try an Anker USB hub or this?

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-4-Port-Portable-Aluminum-2-Foot/dp/B00O0KISQE/ref=sr_1_8?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1499803013&sr=1-8&keywords=USB+hub

Problem solved...put it right next to you monitor. Now on to world hunger.

PS that's a USB 3.0 for faster connection speed ;)