Best usb network adapters according to redditors
We found 3,607 Reddit comments discussing the best usb network adapters. We ranked the 525 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 3,607 Reddit comments discussing the best usb network adapters. We ranked the 525 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Using a Plugable USB 3.0 Ethernet Adapter (ASIX AX88179 chipset same as the UGREEN), and have had the "Console warm to the touch when connected to ethernet in Sleep Mode" issue since the 5.0 patch. This did not happen prior to that patch. My understanding is that the change in 5.0 that caused this is that the Switch remains connected all the time while in sleep mode, instead of periodically waking for software update checks.
Unplugging the far end ethernet jack and leaving the ethernet adapter connected to the console will correct the issue, and the console will not be warm to the touch in this state. Which seems to suggest the issue is indeed related to the constant connection and update checks, and not the usb adapter itself being powered on while in sleep.
I do not have the other issue OP mentioned, my network switch still shows connected in sleep mode when plugged in, which is why issue #1 is present due to the constant connectivity.
I would like to see the port actually make use of its USB 3.0 hardware capabilities, but this is very minor, and only mildly useful for people with 500Mbps+ internet, and won't help gameplay much if at all, just downloads.
Please note that the official Nintendo Switch LAN uses the ASIX AX88179 chipset, which is basically the best one for the Switch to use and the one you should recommend. I would completely ignore the first LAN adapter you linked to, and primarily suggest the second one you linked to, or this one which is a few cents cheaper.
Jesus christ...
It's a USB wireless adapter people - it's not a modem. Yes, good wireless routers are theoretically capable of high speeds. Adapters not as much. None of this has anything to do with ISP speed. This entire thing reeks of peasantry.
Mother boards with WiFi have external antennas (scroll down a bit), they just screw on the back like any other WiFi radio. Bluetooth receivers tend to be no bigger than USB dongle ones but they don't take up a USB slot.
Wifi motherboards do not cost more than using an external card. WiFi LGA1151. Non-WiFi.. The 3 external adapters you linked cost $37, $85 and $108 respectively. The difference between two motherboards is certainly less than $85 for one with and without Wifi.
Additionally, if you notice most of the WiFi enabled motherboards are mini-ITX where space is at a premium. Using built in Wifi is a space saver. Rather than trying to cram another PCI card in your already limited space.
There are plenty of valid reasons to buy a motherboard with built-in WiFi, don't come at me with your bullshit.
An Alfa AWUSO36NH USB wifi card, an [Alfa R36 802.11 b/g/N Repeater and Range Extender for AWUS036H](https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-R36-Repeater-Extender-AWUS036H/dp/B004ZF0I3U/], a TP-Link 2.4GHz 24dBi Directional Grid Parabolic Antenna, and depending on how far away it is, a TP-Link 2.4GHz 24dBi Directional Grid Parabolic Antenna, and a TRENDnet Low Loss Reverse SMA Female to N-Type Male Weatherproof Connector Cable. You'll also need a tripod mount, and a meter long pole. This setup is very directional, but if you have a clear line of site, it's perfectly doable.
The licensed LAN adapters are pretty overpriced as they are. Most LAN adapters that are compatible with Switch can be found for far less than the standard Hori
I personally use one of these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLUEJFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_M.Z5Bb6EPC3RV
Step 1) Cut the socket off C
Step 2) Cut the front of A
Step 3) Take out your soldering iron and wire strippers
Step 4) Buy https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Ethernet-Portable-1-Gigabit-Chromebook/dp/B00ZZ6NW5E
I’m pretty sure the couple of people who downvoted this guy have no idea what they’re talking about
-something like this but it goes in the usb slot
Try wifi. I've been using it for a couple years on my desktop with 0 issue. Great speed and no connectivity problems.
You have to figure out what works in your setup. Many people recommend PCI adapters if you go wireless, but USB works fucking great for me. Very happy with this http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1418551585&sr=8-3&keywords=tp+link+wireless+adapter
Your power word is "ASIX AX88772" which is the chipset used in the official adapter.
This one works fine.
This is the adapter that is tested: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00BBD7NFU/ref=pe_3044161_189395811_TE_SCE_dp_1
I have ordered it as well to use on my LG C8. The adapter is said to be working despite the TV not recognizing it or showing the settings.
edit: made a table with the reported working results so far:
|Model|Adapter|Chipset|User|
|:-|:-|:-|:-|
|LG B7|CM B00BBD7NFU|?|cipher7777|
|LG B8|CSL B074THPF3L|?|wilberforceReginald|
| LG 65B7V|CM B00BBD7NFU|?|sliyk|
Raspberry Pi 2 Model B
Supports CEC. Comes with 4x USB 2.0 slots, an HDMI, quad core ARM A7 processor, 1 GB RAM, and an ethernet port. Also has GPIO pins but I don't know of any Kodi related uses for them. It is an extremely low power device (uses about $3 worth of electricity per year) and requires nothing to keep it cool (e.g., no fans blaring in the middle of your favorite movie).
Base cost is $35. Requires a microSD card, an HDMI cable, and a microUSB charger, all of which can be purchased for approximately $5 each. An existing microUSB charger, such as from your cell phone or a device like a Kindle or Chromecast can be used, of course. Optional components include a case ($10-$20 or 3D print your own), USB wifi dongle ($10+), and an external hard drive ($50+). A few companies put out bundles that include a Raspberry Pi board and various components such as this basic one and this more complete one. A wireless keyboard ($20+) can also be handy. Product links are provided as examples; there may be better deals or smarter purchases to be had.
You'll then want to use a minimalistic Linux distro such as OpenELEC or OSMC, both of which are designed specifically to run Kodi and have optimized builds for a Raspberry Pi. OpenELEC seems to be more popular and is what I use myself. Installation is easy -- you just download and write to your SD card (oh yeah, you might need an SD card reader, $5). If you'd like you can also install a "real" Linux distro and install Kodi in that as you would on a regular desktop computer. You can either store your media on an external hard drive connected to the Raspberry Pi or on a separate computer or NAS and share your files over your LAN.
Pros:
Cons:
http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Network-Adapter-Chromebook/dp/B00484IEJS
$12, just a generic USB to Ethernet adapter. You do not need the Nintendo adapter.
Donor? why not new?
Here's a black one
Here's an orange one from a site that you will want to use a reloadable MasterCard to buy from
while it's open replace the laser (check your model number for exact laser replacement, this is just an example)
Open ps2 loader and all that.. I ended up having to order a swap magic disk to install free mcboot but there are other ways.
This is optional and expensive, but it will also be an upgrade for any internet connected device around your TV:
What has all this done? Well, firstly your network is now upgraded to AC and that has given you a ~1Gbps link to your modem and other PCs on the network (assuming that you upgraded them all with new WNICs). have fun transferring your entire install of Fallout 4 from one PC to the other in a matter of moments, this would be a great time to look into faster internet packages because you can handle it.
But the other thing, the thing that made you have to do all this scary firmware flashing on expensive networking equipment? Your devices now have a 1Gbps link to your router as well. That's far far better than the NICs in the consoles/set top boxes and since the PS2 has no wireless NIC, this was completely necessary to have it attached to your TV and be able to stream the ISOs off your PC. The router is working backwards, using WiFi as it's WAN connection and supplying connection to the ports.
This is essentially the setup I have, except I'm using my old Dual-band N router as my wireless bridge. The PS2 can load a game far faster than it could off the disk through the network, but also my 360/PS3 can download content and updates far faster than they can with their internal adapters. Anything pulling network video will be more responsive, and will be able to utilise the full speed of your internet connection for things like Netflix.
Is it a lot to connect your PS2 to the WLAN? oh yeah, but your also upgrading your connection for everything else you use at the same time.
If it's short term, whatever is at least as fast as your internet connection. I'll assume you're in the US, so how about https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG
Anything with an AX88179 chipset would work. UGreen and Pluggable seem to be popular brands. I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLUEJFU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - I figured the extra USB ports might be nice to have if I want to run 2 gamecube adapters
An alternative would be the Bionik ethernet adapter, which fits entirely in the dock so it's a bit cleaner: https://www.amazon.com/DreamGEAR-Soundbar-Home-Speaker-BNK-9018/dp/B07583N38P/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1542675672&sr=8-7&keywords=bionik+switch
Oh they’re connected to wifi?
I would set up a rouge wifi access point with same SSID and password as the existing one. If you need the password, you can dump it from the computer you have access to. Then you can send a single deauthentication packet to the MAC address for the target computer until it chooses your network (this is not a denial of service as you are forcing his computer to connect through your lab computer, which is still connected to the network)
From there, you can do network captures and control DNS. Do a network capture of port 80 (unecrypted) and DNS requests. He likely has software that automatically checked for software updates over HTTP (VLC does this, among others) every time he starts it.
Alternatively, you can rewrite a DNS request to cause windows to pop up a native windows login window via captive portal (the pop up you see at starbucks wifi)
Documentation here: https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/drivers/mobilebroadband/captive-portals#cch
All in all, wifi makes things a lot easier. If you have an atheros/other wireless usb handy you can do all of this in ~15min or less.
Here’s the model I use:
TP-Link 150Mbps High Gain Wireless USB Adapter for PC and Laptops (TL-WN722N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NC40CbD87F441
It’s $15 and even if you don’t succeed, you’ll never have crappy wifi on campus again. I have 3 in my bag right now.
/u/BigOleBallsack - I would get neither. With a $5000 budget, unless you need to take still photos, I recommend an interchangeable lens Super 35 camcorder instead.
By the time you buy ND filters, an XLR audio solution with decent preamps and rigging (e.g., a top handle) to compensate for the GH5's or the A7s II's still camera ergonomics - you might as well buy a real video camera.
In your price range, I recommend a [$2595 Super 35 4K JVC LS300] (https://www.amazon.com/JVC-GY-LS300CHU-Ultra-Camcorder-Handle/dp/B00USBVISE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?m=A17MC6HOH9AVE6&s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1487897950&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) with a [$399 Metabones Canon to micro 4/3 autofocusing adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/Metabones-Smart-Adapter-Thirds-Camera/dp/B014C1BF7O//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) and something like a [$799 Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 lens] (https://www.amazon.com/Sigma-18-35mm-F1-8-Lens-Canon/dp/B00DBL0NLQ//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20).
The LS300 has these features that still cameras lack:
I have shot with this camera, it is a solid pro camcorder with the ability to produce high quality 4K video at a reasonable price.
Here are a few examples of the image quality this camera can produce:
Narrative
Music Video
Corporate/Commercial/Interview
Live Event
Wedding
J-LOG on Vimeo (please watch at 4K and your monitor's highest resolution)
1080p on Vimeo
J-LOG on YouTube (please watch at 2160p and your monitor's highest resolution)
Non-LOG Gammas on YouTube (2160p)
This camera is not perfect. It has a tiny viewfinder and LCD, so you'll probably need to buy an EVF - and, although it has 4:2:2 chroma subsampling, it is still an 8-bit camera.
But for less than $3000, the LS300 is the most flexible large sensor, interchangeable lens 4K Super 35 camcorder on the market.
Hope this is helpful and good luck with finding the right camera for your needs!
Raspberry Pi 3
Raspberry Pi Clear Case
32GB MicroSD Card
Netatmo Weather Station
Wind Gauge
Rain Gauge
Rain/Wind Gauge mounts
3 Way HDMI Switch
1FT HDMI Cable
Wifi Adapter
Everything is attached to the back of the television with some double sided sticky paper things i had lying around. Anything will probably work.
The USB wall outlet is one that delivers 3.1A at 5V that we bought from our local hardware store.
The server that the software runs on is a poweredge r710 with dual x5670s and 64GB of ram. Of course, this isnt all it does, but it is one of the many things i host on it. :)
If you'd like, i can post the scripts i wrote for it as well.
Just buy a usb to ethernet adapter!
Cable Matters USB to Ethernet Adapter (USB 3.0 to Ethernet / USB 3 to Ethernet / USB to Gigabit Ethernet / USB to RJ45) Supporting 10 / 100 / 1000 Mbps Ethernet Network in Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BBD7NFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AufEDbNBKJMBS
Mi Box S is the next and cheaper alternative for Android TV. It has 4K and HDR but no ethernet adaptor, you should be able to add one by getting an ethernet adapter (Ugreen brand works perfectly for Mi Box users):
You should be able to get one on Amazon
Ethernet Only ($13)
Ethernet w/ USB 3.0 ($20)
​
If you will be mostly streaming or watching you should be fine with a Mi Box.
I used the following guide for my setup.
https://productforums.google.com/forum/#!topic/chromecast/xo_NDh5CZA8;context-place=topicsearchin/chromecast/category$3Achrome-os
The ethernet adapter I got was the Linksys USB3GIG. It is nice that the USB3GIG supports 1000Gb and has USB3.0 to take full advantage of the bandwidth in theory.
My setup cost me $29, but it can be done for $20.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CXAC1ZW
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYT481C
Edit: I changed the amazon links since I didn't realize amazon shorten links are referral links.
@frostlie You should definitely try this. Even in handheld mode, if you have a USB-C to Ethernet adapter, you should be able to play online.
Something like this should be adequate : https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00ZZ6NW5E/
Obviously you can use whatever, but these are what I used for this project. I bought the 2 pin power ports off of Ebay. For the NES case, try searching "Broken NES" on ebay and you should be able to find some. Or use an entirely different shell and post it!
**edit updated bluetooth link
I will list all parts I used to get it in a functioning state along with the price I got them for.
Overall comes out to about $80 after taxes.
do you mind if i link your amazon referrals from youtube?
Raspberry Pi Model B Revision 2.0 (512MB) $42.88
WiFi Dongle $9.99
16 GB SD Card $12.98
also, would it be all right to link to your bitcointalk thread?
good luck with your project!
Edimax.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Ji9Qub1C3DTAR
I've just tried this out.
I have my UGreen USB ethernet adapter plugged into my Anker USB-C hub with PD and my Anker Powercore+ 26800 PD battery powering the whole thing.
Its charging and showing me the squiggly line for wired ethernet on the screen, so I'm pretty sure any dock using compatible components will work in the way you want.
As an aside - obviously the HDMI port doesn't work, unfortunately.
EDIT: the UGreen Ethernet adaptor is plugged into one of the USB A 3.1 ports on the Anker hub.
Get one of these. They aren't great but it's what you need. Runs off USB power so you stand a chance of not having to install electric.
I've bought this one a few years ago and it works perfectly: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00484IEJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I think every ethernet adapter with the same chipset (ASIX AX88772 chipset) will work with Wii U.
edit: formatting
Having played a lot of Splatoon I would recommend getting an Ethernet adapter. The one I liked below works like a charm.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQM8586/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Fresh build or did you install this on a machine that you have been using for awhile? Also what OS? Have you tried the card in another machine? I see that you believe that the drivers are current, have you tried an older driver. Is there more than one driver for this card on the manufacturer's support site? Why did you purchase a $200 network card when one 1\3 the price would have worked fine? Define your WiFi environment, what router, what extenders, what other devices are on the WiFi network? Do you have a remote weather station? Did you have another WiFi card in the machine before this one? If so did you remove the previous cards drivers and all software? When you installed the driver, did the driver package include proprietary Asus software besides the driver, or did you install the driver by itself? What size was the driver package in MB's? What motherboard are you using? Does it have built in WiFi or LAN? Out of curiosity, what software are you using to measure speed? If you don't know all the answers, just answer what you can and we can piece it together fairly easy. I have more questions, but those can wait.
Edit: Did you pay $200 for this card? I don't know the historical prices of this card, you may have bought it a year ago when the price could have been higher, card prices drop pretty quickly as do all PC components over time.
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K
There's nothing specifically for Android and USB-C, but chances are a simple USB-C to Ethernet adapter will work just fine:
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-1-Gigabit-Compatible-ChromeBook/dp/B00ZZ6NW5E
It is a bit expensive, but I trust Anker's quality, and it's Amazon, so it's pretty easy to return if it doesn't work.
The items used:
Raspberry PI Zero <- Bougth mine at local store.
http://amzn.com/B00S82B0VA <- Karaoke Mixer
http://amzn.com/B00SNLIG5O <- 128GB SD Card for storage
http://amzn.com/B001MSS6CS <- USB Audio Card
http://amzn.com/B003MTTJOY <- Wifi Adapter
http://amzn.com/B005HKIDF2 <- Usb Hub
A total of around ~$90
Edit
If a mic is needed that add $20
http://amzn.com/B003GEBGA0 <- Mic
The big metal thing up top is called Yagi antenna, which is basically just increases signal strength to nearby WiFi access points. Looks like this one
Connected to that is an external USB network adapter, looks like the awesome T-Link Archer or N150 connected to a USB extension.
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So what OP is doing is extending range and connecting to a different nearby router, probably optimum wifi off campus or something.
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EDIT: whoops, OP responded while i was typing. Didn't show up until now.
Parts List:
Power Adapter
Raspberry Pi
USB Super Nintendo Controller (This is the best one I have found so far)
HDMI Cable
WiFi Dongle
Other Items you will need:
USB Keyboard
Monitor or TV with HDMI Support
Now you dont have to use these parts exactly, there are plenty of other parts you can use. I am pretty sure that you can play Roms up to Playstation 1.
There is also a new Raspberry Pi 3 that is compatible with the RetroPie software which has WiFi and Bluetooth integrated into the board.
Helpful Video's to tackle technical issues with your RetroPie:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLtht1mv6ty8xMBwgHX9RCkplqeSRxyHiC
Here is the Case I found on Etsy. There are plenty of other sellers but this guy was great!
There are USB wifi adapters for Raspberry Pi that cost less than half that:
http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY
Get this one instead. It's USB 3.0, caps out at 100 Mbps, and is on the list of USB 3.0 adapters that work. I have two different ones unfortunately, and this is the one that works.
Edit: I just noticed that this one is currently unavailable. Wait a day or so, and check again. They usually run for $15.
Hands down, yes. They're practically necessary, in my opinion.
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Network-Adapter-Chromebook/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487086534&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=wii+u+ethernet+adapter
This is the one I use, and it works fine. They're kind of finnicky with the wii u in general, but it works very well for me. Don't buy the ugreen one, that one is shit and doesn't work.
Assuming you live in the dorms, don't use the WiFi, it really is utter garbage and I never had the patience to use it when I lived in Friely. If you have a device with an Ethernet port, your best bet is too use that, as it is much faster. If you happen to have a device without a Ethernet port, they make usb to Ethernet adapters such as this one: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00BBD7NFU
Hope this helps.
> Now if you can help me fix the lag.
Here, I also recommend subscribing to a real ISP, but that varies between regions.
I found This One for $10 that's been working for me just fine.
a hem https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-1-Gigabit-Compatible-ChromeBook/dp/B00ZZ6NW5E
Make an all purpose travelpi.
Get a PI3, load it up with raspbian or your preferred OS and throw it together with this Screen and case combo. Add some heatsinks to keep it cool, put emulation station on there for all the downtime gaming action you could ask for. Then have some fun playing with accessories. Here's a bluetooth vehicle diagnostics monitor you can use with pyOBD to monitor any 96 and up vehicle to check gas mileage and check error codes. Here's a GPS module for logging miles and checking locations and for the times you just absolutely must get wifi no matter what heres an adapter and antenna that will reach out and touch someone in the next country.
Edit: game pads
study for CompTIA A+.
They teach you stuff that a normal every-day user wouldn't need to concern themselves with, like OSI layers, types or protocols and standards for data transition. I think it also covers some aspects of security like what hashing is, types of encryption, and gets you used to some tech lingo that an average user may not understand.
After that, go for Network+, it dives deeper into...well, computer networks.
Plenty of free resources for both certifications online. And if you do decide to test for the certifications, they look real gucci on your resume if you have no prior IT experience.
After that, if you have some spare dough, pick up a cheap used laptop for probably $150 or so, and probably pick up one of these guys as well. You don't need any fancy specs. Just enough for you to download Ubuntu and learn linux, setup a challenge for yourself to navigate the operating system using the terminal and the terminal only. That includes installing new programs, opening up files, executing scripts, everything. No double clicking allowed, limit yourself from using the GUI of the OS as much as possible. If you want something done, learn to use the terminal to do it first.
And imo it's really important to do it in that order. Don't be like a lot of people, who thinks buying a laptop and a airmon-ng compatible wifi adapter will make them all set to start becoming a 1337 hacker, and lost interest in a month or two and have basically just wasted their money. Hacking really doesn't have a set course, but if you find yourself with enough interest and discipline to grind through two boring (but very informative) certifications, I believe that then you know you are in the right field. Mostly, you pick up pieces of knowledge here and there, no book is gonna be a fit-all solution towards becoming a hacker. It is the sum of those pieces of knowledge, that makes a hacker a hacker.
TP Link is supposed to be good with Linux
This works for certain without any configuration - http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449448506&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=tp-link+wireless+adapter
As long as it's a Gigabit adapter, they're honestly all the same speed. I bought the Plugable because it was recommended by lots of others, has great reviews for Switch use, it's affordable, AND it's USB 3.0 compatible. Works perfectly btw, perfect size for the side plate.
The Hori/Nintendo one is more expensive (more than double the price) and doesn't have 3.0 capabilities. Now that doesn't matter right now, but people believe that the Switch console is also 3.0 capable, they just haven't provided an update to "activate" it. If they ever do, and there's any speed increase to be seen, you won't get it with a 2.0 adapter like the Hori/Nintendo.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLUEJFU/
Ethernet port for the Mi Box solved. It's solid. Been working on both my Mi Box's for over a month with no downtime.
I've got one and it was recognized immediately with no issues.
http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-Wireless-Adapter-Wizard/dp/B003MTTJOY
I don’t think OpenBSD supports Broadcom WiFi at all. Your best bet is probably to get a supported USB adapter. I have a couple of these that live in my OpenBSD laptops that have junky onboard WiFi. Mostly old Macs with Broadcom WiFi.
I have this usb adapter that I use from time to time, and this which I use pretty much all the time and have had for about 2 years. I like being able to move the antenna to get a better signal, right now it's velcro'd to the wall behind my bed.
If you go the usb route I'd probably buy a larger one that I have that has external antennas, like http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421374210&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=usb+wifi. But I'd still go PCI if you use it a lot, probably last longer and have a better quality connection.
I bought THIS. I use it exclusively with openELEC and when I hooked it up my router was about 40 FT from my box.
THIS is running on my Raspberry pi openElec box that is right now about 15 feet from the router (on a different floor)
I haven't tested the range on either, but both work great.
I suggest doing a virus scan that's completely outside of Windows. That way any malware that might be there will have less chance to execute and interfere with the scan. It's also useful just as a second opinion.
When finished, click on the app menu (same one as step 3) and tell it to restart. When prompted, remove the flash drive / DVD and then press enter.
These are NOT complete, step-by-step instructions. They're only enough to sort of convey the general idea, so some of these may require a little trial & error or Googling. If this is new to you, try it on your own machine first before doing it on hers. VirtualBox is a free program for using virtual machines, and you could use that for practice.
Keep in mind that no work or settings will be saved while booted from the flash drive. Everything is kept in RAM unless you save to a disk. Linux doesn't get installed to her machine unless you deliberately run the installer program.
I hate viewing amazon mobile links on the desktop, the page is so blank and the pictures are uselessly small. Heres your list with normal links:
Adapters:
OP either got ripped of, or is making shit up. That card he linked only costs $55 brand new. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JNA337K
Of course it can! hubs dont need drivers. I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLUEJFU/
you get a usb ethernet and a hub all in one :D
However, there isnt a game that really supports 8 controllers right now. Bomberman really only supports 4 sets of joycons which they translate L and R joycons inputs seperately even though they are paired in sets. so it's really a hack rather than true 8 controller support. you'll probably get at most 4 controllers on a hub.
https://www.konami.com/games/bomberman/r/us/en/page/controller_settings/
no
One network jack is totally appropriate for a little general-purpose hobbyist SBC.
If you want a little, inexpensive computer with lots of Ethernet jacks, just buy one. If you want an Odroid N2 with an extra network jack, add one.
USB! Check out Amazon for inexpensive adapters that will improve your online gaming on the Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M77HMU0
Do you have an Android smart phone or tablet?
If so, DL the Wiggle wifi app.
With it running, you can walk around the property and better triangulate various signals.
If you have a macbook, you can do the same thing pretty much with Kismac. I use WiFiFoFum to do it with an iPhone, but it requires jailbreaking.
Subnet Insight is an absolutely amazing app for iPhone for taking keeping track of your local network and keeping it safe. It's $5, and the only non-free software I'm linking.
If you have an external wireless adapter, or are willing to spend $15-$30 on a specialized one, I can walk you through putting it in monitor mode and really getting the the bottom of the issue.
Here's a simple tp-link USB wifi adapter you can use to monitor all transmissions over B/G/N wifi, [for only $11 amazon prime.] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG). Here's a very high quality (and foolproof) directional antenna you can use to make it much more effective for less than $30.
^Also ^a ^lot ^of ^the ^advice ^you've ^gotten ^so ^far ^is ^pretty ^
badummmmm, ^or ^too ^complicated ^w/out ^better ^context.But don't be discouraged. Network internals & also wifi/radio signals are complex topics, but the basics are accessible enough to pick up quickly in your situation.
Your father is VERY good with computers? You are basically screwed unless you can dramatically up your game.
Basically, a knowledgeable person can upgrade a router with open source firmware, and give himself god-like powers over the network. Your every move could be tracked.
Your father, if sufficiently skilled, could give you access to Internet that is upside down, or only directed to Kittens, or he could make every single image blurry or missing. More subtlety, he could just log every single thing you do on the 'net.
And it isn't even that hard, it just takes knowledge of what is possible, and the use of Google to figure out how to do it.
There are things you can do. Get a cheap USB WIFI adapter first. So you won't show up on your father's router with your current WIFI adapter. Then, tether to your Android phone, or piggyback off of a neighbor's WIFI.
Last, keyloggers are a possibility - they could be hardware or software related. It is possible to install a hardware keylogger inside the case of your laptop if the installer is sufficiently technically talented. A keylogger, or other software or firmware would completely compromise your computer and prevent you from hiding almost anything that you do.
These are $10 and the work right out of the box.
The best solution for using WiFi on your desktop would probably be to get a PCI wireless card, like this one.
If you aren't comfortable adding a PCI card, or don't have any space for one, you can get a USB wireless adapter, such as this one.
Finally, if you want a better solution that's not running a long cable, buy power line adapters. You plug one into a socket near the router and connect it via Ethernet to the router, then you plug another one in beside your PC and run Ethernet from it to your PC. It uses the wiring in the house to carry data, and is often better than WiFi.
Personally, I would go with the power line adapters then the PCI wireless card.
I use this and it is plug and play. Just change the settings to wired connection
http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Network-Chromebook-Specific/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420514774&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=USB+to+ethernet
You have a few options. Be careful of the gigabit Ethernet usb adapters. The gigabit ones use a different chipset than the 10/100mb ones. I've heard of compatibility problems with the gigabit ones. With my v20, I use a type-c to USB 3 adapter along with a USB to 10/100 Ethernet NIC.
(Adapter, also includes a useful type c to micro USB so you can use other people's micro USB chargers, I keep these in my wallet )
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01J7KE7SE/
( USB NIC, There's cheaper ones than this, but you really want the indicator lights so you know it's working )
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00484IEJS/
They said no routers. Which I can understand. But what about an unmanaged network switch?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A128S24/
These all work. Note that the Switch USB port is capable of USB 3.0 but a software patch is required which Nintendo hasn’t pushed yet, so USB 2.0 is what the Switch is currently pushing. Up to you if you want to pay a few extra bucks for the 3.0 adapter anyways.
UGREEN Ethernet Adapter USB 2.0 to 10/100 Network RJ45 Lan Wired Adapter for Nintendo Switch, Wii, Wii U, Macbook, Chromebook, Windows 10, 8.1, Mac OS, Surface Pro, Linux ASIX AX88772 Chipset (Black)
UGREEN Network Adapter USB 3.0 to Ethernet RJ45 Lan Gigabit Adapter for 10/100/1000 Mbps Ethernet Supports Nintendo Switch Black
Plugable USB 3.0 to Ethernet Gigabit 10/100/1000 LAN Network Adapter (ASIX AX88179 chipset Compatible With Windows 10, 8.1, 8, 7, XP, Linux, OS X/macOS, Switch Game Console, Chrome OS)
You need a LAN adapter that has the AX88179 chipset, or it won't work. It's not rare or anything, but there are different ones, so check before you buy.
The Plugable one is a popular buy for a good price ($15) and a reliable brand.
Yeah it makes a huge difference. Another one that works which was recommended else where is the Plugable USB 3.0 lan adapter $14.75, works great for me
I have a network card in my gaming rig alongside a gtx 970 graphics card and the usb card is in the front of the case and plugs into the motherboard.
you can get a random one on amazon for like 10 bucks. I got one for my wii u and it works on my switch as well.
edit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYT481C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
this is the one I got, so I can guarantee it works on switch.
Sure, It has two modes:
It's way better then using an HDMI cable and no wireless infrastructure is needed. Just a phone or computer and a TV with a Chromecast plugged in.
Now if you want your mind blown? You can also plug a Chromecast into an Ethernet cable with:
http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Micro-B-Ethernet-Raspberry-AX88772A/dp/B00RM3KXAU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452045205&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=chromecast+ethernet+adapter
Or a monitor or stereo system with:
http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Compatible-Chromecast-Chromebooks-B2B137-BLK/dp/B00Z4TQ64Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452045205&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=chromecast+ethernet+adapter
It works well with games too. There is one caveat though. It's best used with a TV that supports 1080p,
Lived at UMass for 3.5 years. Played PC games all the time. Had a few different adapters, one rose above them all.
&#x200B;
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CCMUN8C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&#x200B;
This sucker worked FLAWLESSLY! Still using it today with no problems.
For my Wii U, I just use one of these.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ethernet-Adapter-Macbook-Chromebook-Windows/dp/B00MYT481C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486208769&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=ugreen+ethernet+to+usb&amp;psc=1
Hopefully it works with my Switch.
I designed and built this coop with inspiration from other designs. We have a unused side yard that we turned into a chicken pen with a coop. In about 3 months our chickens should start producing eggs!
Here is the parts list for the Pi camera:
You can hook it up via ethernet with something like this
http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Micro-B-Ethernet-Raspberry-AX88772A/dp/B00RM3KXAU
Few different build variants depending on your cousin's needs.
Note that this motherboard only has 2 PCIe slots, so you might not want to use a wifi adapter that's PCIe (I personally am partial to this IOGEAR ethernet-wifi adapter, but it's only 150mbps and the 300mbps version is more expensive at $44 bucks).
Special mention that the RAM is known to work with the motherboard.
4core/8thread CPU + 250GB SSD + 1TB HDD:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1400 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $157.49 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $77.98 @ Newegg
Memory | GeIL - EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $93.99 @ Newegg
Storage | SK hynix - SL308 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $77.89 @ OutletPC
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $48.44 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Asus - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Phoenix Video Card | $129.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair - CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $26.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Wireless Network Adapter | Asus - PCE-AC55BT PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $31.90 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Cooler Master - R4-S8R-20AK-GP 28.9 CFM 80mm Fan | $4.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | Asus - VS228T-P 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $89.99 @ SuperBiiz
Mouse | Redragon - Centrophorus M601 Wired Optical Mouse | $12.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $887.53
| Mail-in rebates | -$45.00
| Total | $842.53
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-26 04:04 EDT-0400 |
4core/8thread CPU + 120GB SSD + 3TB HDD:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1400 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $157.49 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $77.98 @ Newegg
Memory | GeIL - EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $93.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Kingston - A400 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $51.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Asus - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Phoenix Video Card | $129.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair - CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $26.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Wireless Network Adapter | Asus - PCE-AC55BT PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $31.90 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Cooler Master - R4-S8R-20AK-GP 28.9 CFM 80mm Fan | $4.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | Asus - VS228T-P 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $89.99 @ SuperBiiz
Mouse | Redragon - Centrophorus M601 Wired Optical Mouse | $12.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $903.08
| Mail-in rebates | -$45.00
| Total | $858.08
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-26 04:12 EDT-0400 |
faster 4core/8thread CPU with better cooler + 120GB SSD + 2TB HDD:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1500X 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $176.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $77.98 @ Newegg
Memory | GeIL - EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $93.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Kingston - A400 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $51.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $66.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Asus - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Phoenix Video Card | $129.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair - CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $26.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Wireless Network Adapter | Asus - PCE-AC55BT PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $31.90 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Cooler Master - R4-S8R-20AK-GP 28.9 CFM 80mm Fan | $4.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | Asus - VS228T-P 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $89.99 @ SuperBiiz
Mouse | Redragon - Centrophorus M601 Wired Optical Mouse | $12.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $899.58
| Mail-in rebates | -$45.00
| Total | $854.58
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-26 04:16 EDT-0400 |
Unfortunately most gaming headsets are quite overpriced, a popular option without spending a lot is this mic that clips onto normal headphone wires ($8) maybe get that and save up for a better headset or some good headphones and a modmic.
For the internet if you have to use wireless get the internal card, if you can run an ethernet cable do that and consider a cheap usb adapter for interim.
I think you're mixing issues... Klisch will certainly let you install software or drivers if you need.
And antennas don't need drivers or software, it's the card that needs a driver.
I use an Alfa external card, and Amazon will recommend several antennas if you need more than that.
https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-802-11b-Wireless-Original-9dBi/dp/B001O9X9EU
I've also heard good stuff about TPLink external cards. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG
Did you buy him the card already? The RX 470 and RX480 are coming at the end of the month and will both feature better performance in battlefield and GTA and both are cheaper than that $250 380 you have in the cart.
But to answer your questions. No the 860k won't be much of a bottleneck in those games. Especially if you overclock it a bit with a good cooler. That cooler in your list only does a light overclock.
Can I also make a few suggestions?
You're building budget but went with a $200 monitor? Might as well spring for freesync and 1ms response time while you're at it.
Better Cooler - trust me it's worth it
2 Sticks of 4GB Instead for Dual Channel
Wifi Pci card over usb wifi
Why not a nice Micro Atx case to match the motherboard
Something like this. The OP link then is probably the same thing but the person who took the picture had no idea what it is. This is funnier now.
I would take a Raspberry Pi.
Add an HDMI to VGA Cable.
Mix in a little Wi-fi Adapter.
Season to taste. (Wireless KB/M, USB drive, Chromecast, Wireless controller, Nintendo Emulator, Wireless speakers, etc...)
Mount behind monitor and mount monitor on wall in garage or bathroom and add a dash of power.
And then play games, watch movies, sports, etc....In the bathroom, garage, shed...
^(I have no idea if this would work but now I want to try it).
^^*Fixed ^^spelling
$8
Edimax EW-7811Un 150Mbps 11n Wi-Fi USB Adapter, Nano Size Lets You Plug it and Forget it, Ideal for Raspberry Pi / Pi2, Supports Windows, Mac OS, Linux (Black/Gold) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_e.tNxbKF8WXNB
This adapter works when following these instructions.
It could be possible but I don't know if it would the phone would pump out that much power.
We already have stuff like http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003MTTJOY/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/190-9632706-9095906 (I use one on my older laptop that has a fried wlan card, this USB wlan works like a charm)
If we can get a USB OTG phone and somehow load the drivers for this USB wifi adapter and then add software that makes the WiFi Hotspot work, then sure.
Using the Wireless Pineapple is the easy way of pulling off these attacks. I can assure you that they just utilize the aircrack-ng suite. You can buy an alpha NIC(network interface card) and Raspberry Pi. Although you can perform these on a laptop and a packet injection capable nic. You can either write a bash script, which is very easy if you are familiar with shell environment, and perform all the attacks plus more. Here is a script I wrote a couple years back that allow you to pull off some of the attacks. Also with some attacks that may not be included.
http://johnny-walker.net/scripts/wset.sh
Another possibility - using a USB dongle. TPLink has some nice ones: https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-TL-WN822N-Wireless-Adapter-Version-300M/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=sr_1_8?crid=1NKEO3WFO78UV&amp;keywords=tp+link+usb+wifi+adapter&amp;qid=1559026857&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=tp+link+usb+wifi+%2Caps%2C295&amp;sr=8-8
There are several performance variants. They use USB 3.0
So for my battery pack, it's a mycharge.com product. I just got literally the biggest one they have. I use the Broadcom adapter on the device to connect to the local wifi and a panda USB wifi dongle with an upgraded antenna. If you really want I'll troll through my amazon purchases and try to find it but Panda has good drivers and can monitor. The antenna should be on the "customers who bought this also bought this"
Edit:
Panda Wireless PAU06 300Mbps N USB Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JDVRCI0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rjlCzbCSVWP98
https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Ethernet-1000Mbps-Windows10-Nintendo/dp/B00LLUEJFU/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510185405&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=ugreen+usb+lan
ive tried a lot of usb/ethernet adapters.. the reliable was the above one
UGREEN USB 3.0 Hub Ethernet Adapter 10/100/1000 Gigabit Network Converter with USB 3.0 Hub 3 Ports for Nintendo Switch, Windows Surface Pro, MacBook Air/Retina, iMac Pro, Chromebook, PC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLUEJFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vpR4Cb67NFW5G
Not really - they're trying to get the price as low as possible while still generating profit. I'm sure they have stats on how many people use the port, and it didn't make sense to include it when looking at the cost / benefit analysis.
People that want it can pick up an adapter for $15 and go on their way.
Will this work on the switch?
> Can I just use any inexpensive ethernet adaptor, or is it recommended that I use the one specific for the Switch?
The Switch can only use adapters with chips that are, or act like, the ASIX AX88772 chipset.
You don't need a Switch branded one though. I suggest this AmazonBasics one, although you need the USB3 version; even though the Switch doesn't support USB3, the USB2 variant uses a non-compatible chipset.
> Will anything bad happen like the bricking when put into a 3rd party dock, or will there really be no difference?
It just won't work. Nothing bad will happen, but nothing at all will happen.
----
See this post for more information.
you need this ethernet to usb adapter plus this apple usb c adapter.
I don't know if the macbook is compatible with other usb c adapters though. If it is, then you could save a little there, but still, 100$ to connect with an ethernet cable, after purchasing a 1000+$ pc...
I think the problem might be the ethernet adapter. I don't have that adapter, but it looks like the USB 2.0 version doesn't work with the Switch; you want the USB 3.0 version.
EDIT: Yeah, I definitely think it's your adapter. Look at all the reviews that mention the Switch on the USB 2.0 version versus the USB 3.0 version
You can get an adapter for a wired connection, like this: UGREEN LAN Adapter USB 2.0 Netzwerk USB zu RJ45 Ethernet Adapter 10/100Mbps https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00MYT481C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Mm1RBbAZA6Z08
+1 for this hub.
Haven't run into any issues using it with multiple devices simultaneously (e.g. mouse + headphones + HDD), no random disconnections, no transfer speed problems from external HDDs, etc. And it really is incredibly compact compared to most similar hubs.
The only thing it lacks that some hubs have is a built-in ethernet port. That said, ethernet is usually only an emergency fallback solution these days, and the port dimensions would necessitate a much bulkier hub. You can always get a separate USB3.0 to RJ45 GbE adapter in case you want to carry it for specific occasions while saving space with the smaller hub most of the time.
I've had no problems with this one from Amazon: Plugable USB 2.0 to 10/100 Fast Ethernet LAN Wired Network Adapter for Macbook, Chromebook, Windows 10, 8.1 and Earlier, Surface Pro, Wii, Wii U, Linu https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_WNPNa6POX637P
Worked right away, and never disconnects. My only issue with the Mi Box so far is that every few days Google Play movies won't work until I reboot. Not a big deal though.
Good luck!
I've got both. FireTV ran XBMC really well out of the box and it still does. I got the Nexus Player a couple weeks ago and it's currently running version 13.2. It navigates the menus just as well as the FireTV, but playback of media is where I have issues.
I get random crashes to the home screen during playback regardless of file type. My enterprise grade wireless N AP is one foot away from the Nexus Player and higher bit rate 1080p media stuttered constantly. So I bought a usb to ethernet adapter, which now works much better.
I plan on upgrading to the 14.2 beta on both devices when I get the time which some people are saying fix some of the playback issues for the Nexus, but right now, just for XBMC, I'd recommend the FireTV.
I’m not sure if you want someone to give you a TL;DR or if you’re are saying OP should have put one.
Either way TL;DR: Buy an Ethernet adapter, It’s not that expensive, will give you a much better connection, and will make other people’s online experiences better as well. If you do get one, buy a USB 3-Ethernet adapter with an AX88179 chipset. Like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQM8586
I went with this model.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQM8586/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Costs a little more but it's USB 3.0. I figured the inside port supports it and who knows if and when Nintendo will support dedicated servers.
Besides, there are plenty of other devices that support it.
USB 3.0 devices work on USB 2.0 ports no problem. What matters here is what drivers are built in on the system, so if a USB 3.0 LAN adapter has the right chipset, it'll work (but operate at USB 2 speeds). I use this USB 2.0 adapter on my Wii U, and this 3.0 adapter on my Switch. The Switch supports both chipsets to allow compatibility with the older official adapter, but the Wii U doesn't support the newer gigabit adapter's chipset.
Damn, I can confirm this actually works! I already had the following adapter from Cable Works (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00BBD7NFU) which looks to be the black version of the one they discuss in that link.
I've just finished some testing on my B7 with UHD Remuxes of Lucy and Pacific Rim using the XPlay Plex client and the native Plex client. Both software clients are playing these high bitrate 4k Remuxes over Ethernet without any issues for the first time ever!
This has been the biggest issue I've had with my B7 since i purchased it in 2017 as I have all my video content on a large Plex server and was extremely disappointed to learn about LG's decision to go with a 100MB connector on its ports given the issues I saw with my high bitrate 4k files.
Great post, OP!
Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 to RJ45 Gigabit Ethernet Network Adapter in Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BBD7NFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hgxnzbFE98ZEK
Any USB 3.0 specific adapter like this is going to work fine.
The NES Pi Cart was my first project too. I enjoyed the process immensely. Before I started I couldn't solder and had no clue what 'sudo' meant. Now I've built three retro systems, also since December, two with LED's, with zero prior Linux knowledge. I can suggest this guide which will give you a completed system in a few hours.
https://howchoo.com/g/mti0oge5nzk/pi-cart-a-raspberry-pi-retro-gaming-rig-in-an-nes-cartridge?utm_source=facebook&amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;utm_campaign=picart
If you want plug n play then Buy a NES classic. If you wanna learn some new skills keep on the course man. Had to try some different wifi dongles myself. This one works out of the box with retro Pie and Pi Zero. sNES30 controllers never worked for me. Return and try wired maybe. PS4 controller works flawlessly for me.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_ECL4xI3dTpHx7
I use this with Ubuntu GNOME daily. No config or software installation was necessary.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-oU8yb19MESCZ
Edimax EW-7811Un on Amazon
Works right out the box.
^^^pcie*
There are a few options.
Keep in mind that you're always gonna get faster speeds with a cable as opposed to wireless.
Merry Christmas, by the way
http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-Wireless-Long-Range-Screw-On/dp/B003YIFHJY
There aren't many better.
Don't buy this one. It's $27 which is way too much for a LAN adapter. This one is less than $12 and works with the Switch just fine as well.
Everyone should grab this: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Ethernet-Adapter-Nintendo-Chromebook/dp/B00MYT481C/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527707748&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=ugreen+ethernet+adapter&amp;psc=1
Got this one for $10. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYT481C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 Works perfect
You say that now but things like this exist http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Micro-B-Ethernet-Raspberry-AX88772A/dp/B00RM3KXAU
You're right! I have it over ethernet with an adapter. I can find a link when I get home. Something about using Wi-Fi just didn't feel right.
Edit: This is the one that I'm using.
Two options:
HTH!
This is the one I used. Currently unavailable from Amazon but Monoprice might have it in their website.
Monoprice USB Extender over CAT5E or CAT6 Connection up to 150ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L14ZTC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1BuPBb72WB7KB
This one is very small and says in the title that it works with Mac OS.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/
Yeah, one of these (supported by
urtwn) in one of these. Not ideal, but hopefully temporary.>Modern WiFi is almost always better than powerline so it is not a surprise there.
I bought a cheapo Netgear $20 USB dongle in the meantime, and it's pretty awful. I have a chromecast and smartphone which I use alot and they have NEVER dropped out from my network using WiFi. However, my brand new USB dongle has dropped out about 4 times in 5 hours and the speed is very consistent, very frustrating to use and terrible for streaming video especially.
Is that because USB WiFi is trash in general, or because I just bought a cheap one? Should I look into buying a PCI-e WiFi card like this?
This is the popular one used with the Mi Box:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLUEJFU/
If the USB port does not provide enough power, plug in one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QV5Q5HU/
I can confirm the Bluetooth version (Rii I8+ BT) DID NOT WORK. It would not pair with the Mibox. I'm using the only USB slot for the wifi version of that remote (Rii I8+ Wifi confirmed working). I ordered the item below for a combined ethernet with 3 additional USB ports. Also ordered a Gamesir GS3. Will report if that works.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LLUEJFU/ref=ya_st_dp_summary
MAC addresses are tied to the physical adapter being used. A "MAC address ban" could be easily circumvented by buying one of these or even more simply, switching from wifi to ethernet or ethernet to wifi (as it would be a different physical adapter hence different MAC address).
AmazonBasics USB 3.0 to 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M77HMU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EC3vCbH07JBQR
UGREEN Network Adapter USB 3.0 to Ethernet RJ45 Lan Gigabit Adapter for 10/100/1000 Mbps Ethernet Supports Nintendo Switch Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYTSN18/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oC3vCb173PES1
Older Thunderbolt 1 and 2 devices, such as those designed for Apple Mac products, would need an adapter to work with Thunderbolt 3, since Thunderbolt 1 and 2 used Mini DisplayPort (mDP) ports while Thunderbolt 3 switched to USB Type-C.
From slowest to fastest, you have:
That's for speed. For the shape of the plug, you can either have USB Type-A (traditional USB shape) or Type-C (the new shape). There's not necessarily any connection between the shape of the plug and speed, though on the XPS 15 9550 the only Type-C port is a Thunderbolt 3 / USB 3.1 Gen 2 port, while the other Type-A ports are USB 3.0. The new MacBook and Chromebook Pixel have USB 3.1 Gen 1 (equivalent to USB 3.0 speed) Type-C ports, while many smartphones coming out with Type-C ports are still working at USB 2.0 speeds.
USB 3.0 or above would be preferable, so that gigabit Ethernet is supported. You can get one that uses the Type-C port if you want, but it will still work at the same speed (USB 3.0) as the normal Type-A version. Adapters that take advantage of USB 3.1, much less Thunderbolt 3, are still rather rare. In any case, using Thunderbolt 3 just for Ethernet would be overkill: better to save the Thunderbolt 3 port for a full-scale dock or an external graphics card.
So, enough background. Some options:
The two Anker devices also include a three port USB 3.0 hub, for connecting other stuff.
I have the Asus AC68U Router paired with an Arris 6190 Modem. Blazing speeds ready for Gigabit internet. I'm a network engineer, and this is what i use.
Edit: I also game with this Asus PCIe WiFi Adapter
This one works for me with no additional drivers, using Linux Mint Kernel 3.13.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JDVRCI0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This one's cheap and works great, no additional drivers required: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JDVRCI0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I think it might be 2.4 ghz-only, though
You need to get the usb ethernet adapater with an Asix 88179 chip. This supports wake up from suspend.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Network-Adapter-Ethernet-1000Mbps/dp/B00LLUEJFU/
Anything with the ASIX AX88179 chipset should work fine.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M77HMU0/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYTSN18/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQM8586/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FFJ0RKE/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLUEJFU/
All of the above should work with any Android based device. (ie. Shield TV, Mi Box or Fire TV)
Lack of updates, no ethernet (had to buy a USB one since the WiFi was pretty unreliable), glitchy video and sound, crashes and freezes randomly, and a few other reasons i can't think of ATM.
Honestly, I was in the same boat. Great memories with Smash and my college roommates. Got online to hang out with them when we have time. As long as you don't take every hit seriously and enjoy it for the game, its alright. I use to get mad at the input lag and buttons not working, but I changed to basically play with my friends online (also get a Lan Adapter and tell your friends to as well) and you will have a lot of fun. You might even find another game you guys like to play as well, for us it's Mario Kart, don't drink and drive.
Amazon Ethernet adapter I picked one of these up for a more stable connection in Splatoon. It's been working great so far.
One of these bois into the usb port on the switch dock: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M77HMU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uFQZBbXNHJ30N
I bought this one and it works for my Mi Box. I don't have the S though so I can't say for sure.
I play the GameCube version of Phantasy Star Online regularly, and the GC PSO community widely recommends this adapter for people who play it on a Wii. If you're curious, the Wii requires a particular chipset (ASIX AX88772 or AX88772A), and the adapter also works with my Switch.
Look into power line adapters paired with Ethernet adapter. I'm in a similar situation and this is my solution and it works perfectly. it's an expensive solution but you can use the power line adapter for PC's and other things in the basement. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eG39Bb73F41RT
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYT481C?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
edit: also note this is not an invasive option since you just plug in the power line adapters, then plug one side into your router and one into the Ethernet adapter
I bought this one back in June. It worked straight out of the box on my Switch.
this one will work according to another user, Im sure 90% of USB 2.0 to ethernet adapters will work. but other users have had less success with USB 3.0 adapters. which wont really make a difference unless your connection is over 50mb/s.
Wrong. I ordered this one and it works like a charm.
The online play is alright, but because of the nature of the Wii U's wifi connection, it's nearly impossible to get good netplay without the use of a LAN adapter.
This is the one I use - it's cheap, and it's always been perfect for me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYT481C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
If you need a guide on how to get one set up, that exists too: http://www.pokkenarena.com/forums/topic/560-your-handy-guide-to-lan-adapters
Once you're all done with that, come to the Discord to get some friendlies, as you're not guaranteed to fight people with good connections on Ranked: discord.gg/pokken
Hope I could help!
It'd work but that adapter has a lot of bad reviews on Amazon. I'd suggest a more expensive (but properly working) adapter like this if you want extra (powered) USB ports, this if you don't need full-size USB ports, or this if you want a HAT instead.
I can solve that problem with this. ... If you're on an android, at least.
As far as I can tell there are no spec differences between the Zero and the Zero W except for the WiFi on the W. The processor, RAM, and other features are the same.
If you're not going to use the wireless then I'd put the extra $5 toward the Ethernet adapter.
I've bought a couple of this OTG Ethernet adapter and I've been happy with them. I use one with a Pi0 as my Pi-Hole.
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-1-Gigabit-Compatible-ChromeBook/dp/B00ZZ6NW5E
Sounds like you want something like This
You can use something like this that takes in a Wi-Fi connection and converts it to Ethernet
EDIT: This one doesn't support Enterprise :(
You can use a simple ethernet to WiFi adapter like either of these from IoGear:
Ethernet to Wi-Fi N Adapter for Home or Office, GWU627
Ethernet-2-WiFi Universal Wireless Adapter, GWU637
>PCGenius101
good on you for catching his attempt. That is freaking creepy. Even better you shared.
If you are getting slow speeds, you can fix it yourself. Run a wire to your router first and see if its an adapter(wireless) or if its something in windows. IF the wired connection is all good, then check with the manufacturer about an updated wifi driver. Or, just get a cheap usb wifi adapter and be done with it.
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like this one https://smile.amazon.com/EDUP-ac600Mbps-Wireless-External-10-6-10-13/dp/B01CCMUN8C/ref=sr_1_3?
there's an easy fix for that.
Yep as the other guy said, either get a motherboard with wifi built in, or get a simple USB adapter for wifi. Something like: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CCMUN8C/
Got me a TP-Link TL-WN822N and it's awesome. Working perfektly under Arch and great connection stability and speed.
I bought this thing: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uYrIybKSN8E92
Works well. Just plug it.
Absolutely nothing. DO NOT buy Apple's brand name products. The quality and internet speeds you will be getting are the same.
The likelihood that your bottleneck comes from the adapter is very low. Most likely you won't be receiving max speeds due to the college's internet service, not because your dongle isn't good enough. I recommend this adapter here.
Have you considered something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Network-Chromebook-Specific/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398037539&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+ethernet
If your Roku TV didn't come with an ethernet port, then you'll have to get some kind of Wifi router to plug into the ethernet and connect the Roku TV to that.
There are mixed reports of using USB-Ethernet adapters, but there's no easy way to know which ones are compatible as even different Roku TV models seem to have different results. I've seen mentions of this adapter working for some, but no guarantees can be made.
This is what i use for my Wii U (and also tried it on my Wii)
http://www.amazon.ca/Plugable-Ethernet-Network-Chromebook-Specific/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1381096569&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=wii+u+lan+adapter
I have even used the MH3U Packet Relay Tools (which requires a LAN adapter) and it works just fine.
http://www.amazon.ca/Plugable-Ethernet-Network-Chromebook-Specific/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420521458&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=ethernet+wii+u
I live in Canada and I just bought this one a week ago for my new Wii U; it works perfectly. I have had no problems with it and it works right out of the box, plug-and-play. Made my connection much better for Smash Bros.
If this is the one you are referring to: http://www.amazon.ca/HDE%C2%AE-Ethernet-Adapter-Nintendo-Port/dp/B003XWD1G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420521583&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ethernet+hde+wii+u
As long as it says it is specifically compatible with the Wii U, which it does (and so do the reviews), then you should be fine to get this one too. I can just personally vouch for the Plugable Technologies one.
USB ethernet adapters are hit or miss on the np. I bought one off amazon that didnt work. Then I bought this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00484IEJS/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 and it did work.
This is what I have used now for the past two weeks, plugging in this and my keyboard/mouse unifying receiver.
This and this is what I use for console mode. This setup will let you charge and use Ethernet at the same time.
Here a 3.0 LAN adapter for $15
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQM8586/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UyjIybHHAFP76
Assuming you mean LAN Adapter? I got this one and it works great: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQM8586
For the cable itself you can get just about any Cat5E/Cat6 cable of the length you need and it should work fine.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQM8586
This is the one I have.
Ugreen 3.0 or Pluggable are your best bet!
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Network-Ethernet-Supports-Nintendo/dp/B00MYTSN18/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542676517&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=ugreen+ethernet+adapter
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Gigabit-Network-Compatible/dp/B00AQM8586/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542676561&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=pluggable+ethernet
Avoid the Hori one, it's overpriced and it's also USB 2.0
Umm to be honest your probably fine with the one you have. The reason I recommended the one there is because I have the 100MBPS UGREEN one and it works great and have had no issues. Even things as far as having the Ethernet cable stay securely into the adapter on these is nice which I have had one other where that was an issue. But yeah I imagine the Nintendo ones are great so you should be good with that!
EDIT: Nevermind someone mentioned before that there is a specific chipset for Ethernet adapters that is best for the Switch so if you don't have it might be best to upgrade. Here is the one I found for the best price that they recommended: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Gigabit-Network-Adapter/dp/B00AQM8586
I don't think it'll be much better, but the AX88179 chipset (
axgedriver) is listed on FreeBSD's HCL[1]. Lots of adapters have this chipset, here's one for example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQM8586Perhaps pfSense 2.4.4, with the new 11.2 kernel might bring some improvements. Looks like it's being released next week.
[1] https://www.freebsd.org/releases/11.2R/hardware.html
Never seen a Surface like device with an Ethernet port. I doubt one exists. They are mobile devices so an Ethernet port is counter to it's primary function.
>absolute best (reliable & smallest) usb adapter for Ethernet?
Hard to say... reviews are scarce. There's this from 2013:
http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2415501,00.asp
Still a good choice and there are interesting options...
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B0095EFXMC/. 476 reviews 4.5 of 5
This from 2016 ... but 10/100??? Not fastest.
http://www.wirelesshack.org/our-picks-for-best-usb-to-ethernet-adapter.html
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00ET4KHJ2/ 804 reviews 4.3 of 5
Amazon popularity contest and products I have had good luck with
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00BBD7NFU/ 807 reviews 4.2 of 5
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PC0H9IE/ref=psdc_13983791_t3_B0095EFXMC 584 reviews 4.7 of 5
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00AQM8586/. 767 reviews 4.5 of 5
So maybe the Anker model however... would you want
friesports with that?The Switch only supports LAN adapters that use a particular chipset. I have an Acer branded one which isn't recognized on the Switch, but one by Trendnet which is. I believe there's a list of supported adapters somewhere but I'm on mobile and lazy.
Edit: Adapters that use either the AX88772 (widely used, but slower than 802.11ac WiFi) or AX88179 (less common, but true gigabit speed) chipsets should work. According to the product page of this Plugable adapter, it should be compatible. Is this the one you bought?
Plugable USB 3.0 to Ethernet... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQM8586
This one is great. Bought two of them.
I have the exact same LAN Adapter it seems -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQM8586/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Least I know that's good, and removes one of the issues. I'll buy a new Ethernet cable and see if that can be the quick fix.
m/96 cqc 2000 hmak Backpack (Military)
Camo rain poncho / mini tent (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07MQPJ6WZ/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1)
alsvik sitting pad (alsvik naturecenter norway)
3 home-made 1 store bought Cat5 cabels (Homemade)
cisco serial cabel w/ usb adapter (https://www.amazon.com/Cisco-72-3383-01-Console-Cable-RJ45-to-DB9/dp/B000GL3MOY)
Extension cabel 4 socket (Hardware store)
Ninja black hair ties (Everything store in town)
Ridge wallet alu (https://www.ridgewallet.com/)
2 wifi adapters (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anewish-433Mbps-Wireless-Supports-Black-Gold/dp/B01G77I46G/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_23_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=03C7FX31M2RK737GXZ99)
2 Power adapters for usb (Came with phone)
mix of USB A -> USB B/C/mini C (Came with phone)
Pens ("Borrowed" from work)
Sticky notes ("Borrowed" from work)
ID Card in card holder (Work)
Homekey / Keys to mix of server racks closets(https://www.replacementkeys.co.uk/utility/server-cabinets/)
USB with windows (https://www.microsoft.com/software-download/windows10)
Nail clippers (Everything store in town)
Ethernet adapter (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00BBD7NFU/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=cable+matters+ethernet+adapter&qid=1568050801&s=computers&sr=1-4)
Bicycle light front and back (Everything store in town)
Leather holster for knife (came with knife)
Leather holster for lockpick (came with lockpick set)
Utility knife ("Borrowed" from work)
Wire strippers/ wire clippers ("Borrowed" from work)
Flat head isolated screwdriver ("Borrowed" from work)
Lockpick set (https://www.amazon.co.uk/20-Piece-Lock-Transparent-LockCowboy-Locksmiths/dp/B01CHWIP32)
Really banged up knife that has seen better days (Christmas gift)
and last my phone that took this picture (Huawei p30 pro)
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If you have any questions please ask them, I'll do my best to awnser
This is what I currently use. It basically will switch from being an Ethernet adapter to being a read-only flash drive that has the driver on it if it detects the Ethernet adapter isn't being used or something along those lines. The adapter I linked is plugged into my dock and after I have my computer undocked for a while and I reconnect it, it must believe the drivers got uninstalled or something because it will switch from being an Ethernet adapter to being a USB drive in My Computer with the drivers. Immediately after you open the driver installer, it detects the drivers are already installed and switches back to being an Ethernet adapter.
I can deal with it, but end users won't be able to, so I'm looking for an adapter that doesn't do this. Problem is many sellers don't even advertise the specifics of this functionality, so I'm wondering if anyone has direct experience with one that doesn't have this
Sure.
My tv is LG65B7V
the dongle I bought from Amazon is at the following link;
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00BBD7NFU/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_8?smid=A2HI77ZYQGGRR3&psc=1
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Please keep in mind that I have also tried a usb 2.0 dongle which the TV didn't recognise, I randomly tried this 3.0 one (got the tip from the LG Wbos forums) and it really did the trick for me. I was going towards bashing-head-against wall frustration levels.
Hey do you guys think this will work with the Switch?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BBD7NFU/ref=crt_ewc_title_gw_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A1AMUYYA3CT6HJ
If not can you recommend one because the Nintendo one is hella expensive and the amazon one says it'll take 4-5 months.
dell makes a usb to Ethernet dongle, and other type adapters can be found online for very cheap. https://amzn.com/B00BBD7NFU
I would avoid Wi-Fi as much as you can but sometimes it's necessary. I have tried the dongle (usb) only to have an unstable connection and for it to crap out after a couple of months. I had a mid range tp-link card and that failed after a year, and it never gave me super stable connections. The card linked below is the one I have and I've been very happy with it.
ASUS PCE-AC68 AC1900 Dual-Band Wireless Pci-E Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-M-kDbAPWQ5NS
The R7000 is capable of 900Mbps+ WAN<>LAN.
If you want to go wireless, you need a PCI-E AC class adapter for your PC:
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Archer-T9E-Beamforming-Low-profile/dp/B00TQEX7AQ/
http://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-PCI-E-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C/
This is what I am running at home, and it works flawlessly. I own both the portable and the Shield, and use both with this router without issue.
I am also running a wireless PCE-AC68 card from my PC, instead of wired, but again have zero issues.
If you have the PCIE slot to spare, I highly recommend using that instead. You can get much better performance in both power and speed over the USB option. That being said, here are four recommendations based on your needs:
Personally, I have the PCE-AC68 that I bought for $75 3 years ago and it's still rocking.
http://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-PCI-E-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
This one has good reviews
ASUS Dual-Band Wireless-AC1900 PCI-E Adapter
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521657739&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=asus+pce+ac88
I used this card when I was renting in someone's house, good card for the 6 months or so I used it. Moved somewhere else and went back to a wired connection, but it was the best card I tried.
It will probably be awhile before im done, just something i play with ever now and then. However Google is your friend. NESpi is a pretty common build. Also I'm an amateur when it comes to soldering lol
My final goal is to have it so it you can insert a nes cartridge with a usb in it and it will read games from this. Also working on getting an old laptop fan to run when it reaches certain temps to help cool it down.
I also tore apart a powered usb hub to power the pi and connect controllers. However I would find one better than mine. Get something with high voltage/amperage. I currently have to power the pi separately instead of through the hub.
Some links for you:
Intro:
https://github.com/retropie/retropie-setup/wiki/First-Installation
Switch I use to make so the NES power button works.
https://mausberry-circuits.myshopify.com/collections/frontpage/products/shutdown-circuit-use-your-own-switch
Controllers
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N48L71I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0QcmzbVPP292R
Wi-Fi
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WUcmzbESCH58S
Then just any short usb and HDMI extensions.
Hope this helps!
https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1488320683&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=edimax+wifi+adapter
https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTD-300-Bluetooth-Energy-adapter/dp/B005Z5HT2M/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1488320707&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=kinivo+bluetooth
Super expensive.
If you run tiger on it, there's one of those tiny wifi dongles that has drivers that will work. I've used it on this and the G4 server.
Only problem is the slow USB ports.
This is it
Hi there, sorry for the late answer I was out for the week-end!
It will depends highly on what you expect him to do with it, and also your budget. But for the more standard it will be at least:
Then there can be:
And I confirm, it can be a pretty cool gift for a friend to build :)
Less than $10
I've used this one for every Pi I've owned, plus a few computers. It works great and doesn't need any drivers, but the signal range is kind of poor.
Easy. You'll need a monitor, ideally something with a USB port so you can use the USB power to power the Pi; otherwise you'll need a phone-charger style USB power supply to plug in. A SD or microSD card, depending on which model Pi you get. For wifi, something like this. For software, pick one the Digital Signage projects. http://elinux.org/RPi_Projects/Digital_Signage
Edimax EW-7811. ~7000 Amazon reviews, so you at least know it's reliable hardware-wise.
The manpage for urtwn(4) explicitly lists support for it. I've used mine in a Raspberry Pi under both FreeBSD and Linux with zero issues.
I had the Powermac G5 back in the day with the optional Apple WiFi card and it was not very good. I would maybe look for a USB WiFi solution like: http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY
I would just be sure to make sure that whatever USB WiFi adapter you get the drivers works on a PowerPC and 10.5.8.
I think the convenience of a bundle and free 2 day shipping will make a lot of people overlook an increase in price.
And buying all these components separate its only looking at like a 6 dollar increase, for your 56 dollars are you buying the same things?
http://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-Model-Project-Board/dp/B00T2U7R7I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449350224&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=raspberry+pi+2b
http://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Case-Heat-Sinks/dp/B01188HGT0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449350251&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=raspberry+pi+canakit+case
http://www.amazon.com/Kootek%C2%AE-Supply-Charger-Adapter-Raspberry/dp/B00NL7WK2U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449350270&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=raspberry+pi+ac+adapter
http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-MicroSDHC-Standard-Packaging-SDSDQUAN-008G-G4A/dp/B00M55C0VU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449350290&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=8gb+micro+sd+card
http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449350308&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=wifi+dongle
http://www.amazon.com/HDMI-High-Speed-Cable-Supports/dp/B017TEUC66/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449350332&amp;sr=8-12&amp;keywords=hdmi+cable
Thats 77 dollars. I'm sure you could find it for cheaper, but those are all comparable to whats actually in that kit (or exactly whats in that kit)
Hi, I'm a founder of Parsec. You should use this dongle. It works really well. https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY. Also, it's not about the bandwidth of 2.4 vs 5. It's about the interference. 5ghz is much better for that reason.
Will a cheap wifi adapter like this
https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY
work effectively?
http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-Wireless-Adapter-Wizard/dp/B003MTTJOY
Reccommended by multiple users in the community, I got it and it works perfectly, with no setup.
I use the (TP-LINK TL-WN881ND)[www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0079XWMEI] and the (Edimax EW-7811Un)[www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY]. I never had any problem with them
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003MTTJOY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482978078&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=edimax+ew-7811un&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31ChKj3dl7L&amp;ref=plSrch
This one works without needing to install drivers to Tails, make sure to get the N150-Nano.
Never figured out how to make my Asus wifi stick work with Tails. Cheap one's far easier.
Aside from the intellectual challenge, have you considered buying a wifi adapter off Amazon for $10-15 that already has support in the raspbian kernel?
16 years ago we recompiled our kernels and we liked it by golly, but if there's no need to then please consider saving yourself the headache!
Edit: $8, prime shipping: This is the one I use with my pi - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY - worked first time, no driver issues at all. I would recommend using the wifi setup tools (to connect to your access point) in the graphical windowed environment rather than manually through config file edits. Either way there are lots of tutorials out there.
Well if you ever want to do it on the cheap I will confirm that this will work in HS https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I had to google the driver to install it, but I used it for a while until I could buy an internal Broadcom card to use.
I have this one. I don't use it that often because it's mainly for my Raspberry Pi, but it works perfectly on both Windows and Linux in my experience with no drivers to install.
Well then it could definitely be your WIFI adapter. If the other desktop has a WIFI adapter you could try it. If not, you might try a different PCIe port for the WIFI. Although a lot of motherboards don't have extra PCIe ports. There are some cheap USB WIFI adapters so you might try one of those. I use this adapter. It's inexpensive and gets the job done.
I'm looking at http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00416Q5KI/?tag=pcp0f-20 and http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0035GU3QM/?tag=pcp0f-20 it doesn't really say if it supports Windows 8 or not, it confuses me. It doesn't mention it in either of them but it lists all the other os.
Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/sch/TP-Link-Wireless-Wi-Fi-802-11n-USB-Adapter-and-Dongle/45002/bn_351162/i.html
Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG
eh that's what happens when I try to do shit with my phone
https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-2-4HGz-RP-SMA-Screw--Antenna/dp/B003ZWPRUI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465983658&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=alfa+panel
AMP makes a very noticeable difference but I don't think it's really putting a full 2W. It's cheap though so worth it IMO. Range depends entirely on location, elevation, weather, and what you are "shooting into". Starbucks into an office building is going to have a lot shittier range than say the top of a parking garrage down into a park.
This is basically my "what a hacker might use" set up. The panel, amp, and a NHA and NHR alfa worked great for long range but had some issues with missing packets in Kali. I found the best collection was using airpap cards in Windows wireshark and running attacks via the alfa set up in a Kali Vm.
Also needless to say the airpcap nx card with the 2 external antennas was king but it's a freaking $700 wifi card so it better be.
https://www.cacetech.com/documents/AirPcap%20Nx%20Datasheet.pdf
If you can get 3-4 airpcap classic cards off ebay for cheap (I found 3 for $200) each one can cover 20 mhz of spectrum and you can link them in aggregate with the airpcap control panel. This makes it highly effective for a leave behind collection device against a router that self adjusts. Price might put it out of the range of a regular hacker and more into the industrial espionage price range. You may be able to find an NX for cheap on ebay it seems like cace is getting out of the market with the whole airpcap line so they are getting kinda rare.
edit
also don't forget the noble cantenna. Looks shady as fuck but it's good if you're on a college student budget. You can usually get them just as good as an alfa panel antenna, they just look like a big sign that says "i am up to no good". Make sure if you are using an alfa with an RP SMA connector to build it out of an RP sma and not a regular SMA. Ie fit the pieces together and make sure they're the right kind before you start doing anything.
http://www.turnpoint.net/wireless/cantennahowto.html
edit edit
also check this little guy out. I found him out after I finished my 802.11 stuff but i like it a little better than the alfa cards. Doesn't come with a super fancy antenna when you buy it but it's a lot cheaper and just as good once you put a panel or cantenna on it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SZEOLG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Absolutely. They sell wifi usb adapters and such if you don't have a built in wifi on the motherboard. I'm assuming you have wifi provided some where.
An example: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG
*Edit: example added.
I have been using this USB Wi-Fi adapter without any problems since the past couple months. Super cheap and easy to set up, works perfectly.
Alfa cards are great for most things you need to do for any kind of wireless hacking. However, not too long ago I ran into a few issues where mine wasn't compatible with some tools I was trying to use. I got this and it worked for me. You just need to do some research and make sure whatever you get is compatible for what you will be doing with it.
Buy a wifi adapter, they're like $15.
You can download the last version of the linux-firmware package from Debian Sid repository and install it. If it doesn't work there is ndispwrapper but it's way more simple to buy a 15$ working USB adapter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002SZEOLG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1494029810&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;pi=SL75_QL70&amp;amp;keywords=722n
I like this TP-Link one. It has an external antenna, and is one of few that has free firmware in Linux so it works out-of-the-box.
this is $15 on Amazon and has pretty good reviews
Use an Ethernet extension. Something like this: Monoprice USB Extender over CAT5E or CAT6 Connection up to 150ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L14ZTC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gAjgAbH532FEK
Something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Extender-CAT5E-Connection-150ft/dp/B003L14ZTC
Monoprice USB Extender over CAT5E or CAT6 Connection up to 150ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L14ZTC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZxwcBb3X14395
Why do you restart HA so frequently?
USB Ethernet extenders also exist. Ive used one to go about 40 feet and its never missed a beat.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003L14ZTC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1426986198&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+ethernet+extender&amp;pi=AC_SX200_QL40
[Bare-bones wifi adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/)
Low end gaming mouse
I can personally vouch that the following peripherals work, but certainly make no guarantees that they are the best options or prices etc. If you are feeling really ambitious you can browse the list of verified peripherals and shop around.
sudo apt-get update
sudo apt-get upgrade
and that should update everything.
These are cheap and come highly recommended for basic network access:
http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-Adapter-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY
get an adpater
$42.93 Raspberry Pi
+ $5.79 HDMI cable
+ $10.77 WiFi Adapter
+ $13.59 Case
+ $5.90 USB Wall Charger
+ $8.95 Memory Card 8 GB
+ $17.94 Wireless Keyboard
======================================
$105.87
... and now you can begin to customize it
They also want to make the device available to developing countries, so it's not that unlikely that ethernet won't be available.
also, you might not want ethernet if you've got one of these lying around
The one alternative that comes to mind would be to buy and use a usb wifi adapter, something like this. Then disable the built in wifi adapter.
Alternatively, depending on the accessibility, remove the internal wifi and install a different one, IF the part is the specific issue(and not say, the connection of the part), hp should be able to tell you more.
for an internal wifi that is reported to work with that pc, as per here (provided your pc is the HP ENVY touchsmart 15), would be to get this part(Intel® Dual Band Wireless-AC 7260). Note there is a revised and non revised version, am not sure which of the two would work, if not both. That I leave to you.
This looks pretty close to what you're asking for: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Universal-Short-20cm-Right-Angle-90-Degree-Micro-B-USB-Data-Charging-Cable-/321245338289
20cm is pretty short, but you'll still have a little bit of slack to deal with. Zip ties?
Although, really, your wifi adapter sounds way too big. Why not replace it? http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-Adapter-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408500091&amp;sr=8-2-fkmr1&amp;keywords=wifi+adapter+enermax
Aesthetically that will look nicer, and it's not a lot more money than a quality USB cable.
That's usually due to the drivers being proprietary and abandoned. You would be better served spending 10 bucks on a kernel native adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY
This should be relatively simple (maybe 2 evenings of your time)
Materials (Amazon):
Total cost: ~$100
Setup (Between Python and Firebase this should be fast):
+1 for PCI
I game and have never had problems connecting unless it was ISP side (boo comcast). I also stream Netflix and Amazon without any signal issues.
I use [this PCI-E adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN881ND-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1405104552&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=tp-link+pci+wifi) with good results. They also make regular [PCI] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN751ND-Wireless-Adapter-Low-profile/dp/B005FUGPP4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1405104552&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=tp-link+pci+wifi) depending on what you have available. I'm sure the Rosewill one is quite good too.
I also picked up something similar to [this] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-ANT2405C-Desktop-Omni-directional-Antenna/dp/B001VEAI74/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1405104686&amp;sr=8-11&amp;keywords=tp-link+antenna) to help with my signal, since my room is quite far from my router. It will give you some flexibility on your antenna placement, and gave me a huge boost in signal.
For your purposes either would probably work but I prefer having the cleaner look of a PCI card and I'm under the assumption that there is better power/bandwith going through PCI. If you do go with USB, I suggest something like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1405104921&amp;sr=8-14&amp;keywords=usb+wifi) where you can add on an optional antenna if you have signal issues.
Honestly, a range extender is not an ideal wireless solution for online gaming. Your N600 adapter is likely also a part of the problem that you have. If it is possible, your best option is to run a long ethernet cable to your router. If that is not possible, I would try getting a better wifi adapter for your pc. I would strongly recommend a pci adapter for a better connection. If you have to get a USB adapter, then at least get one with an external antenna. I currently have this usb adapter that works well enough for me. Some reviews say that they get connection drops but I had no problems with it so far. I play with ~50ms pings and rarely get ping spikes higher than 100ms. I guess that it wouldn't hurt to try to get a different router from Comcast. But again, a long ethernet cable is your best option.
PCIE version and USB version cuz I was just wondering if generally pcie is faster better than usb one or the other way around.
oldie, but still pretty great
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463904971&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=TP-LINK+TL-WN722
pi zero - $5.00
pins - $8.95
wifi adapter* - $13.33
right angle USB ports - $5.64
USB battery - $3.99
micro-mini usb cable - $2.89
Total: $39.80
*I used an Alfa AWUSO36NH but the TP-LINK TL-WN722N should work. More information on compatible network adapters here.
The optional Illuminated LED shutdown switch makes this device easier to use but costs an additional $16.99
About
PirateBox software runs on inexpensive hardware to connect users over an offline wifi network. Join it and your browser redirects to a simple interface where you can share files, chat, and stream video.
Pifm is a small program you can install in a Raspberry Pi PirateBox, aka “pi(rate)box.” It can broadcast on FM radio to inform potential users about the PirateBox wifi network, play uploaded music, and with a USB microphone Pifm lets you talk live to your audience.
Improvements
The first version of this project was well received so I'm back to share design and documentation improvements. Pi(rate)FM Zero is now fully self contained. It turns on and off with a button press and can automatically broadcast information about the wifi network over empty FM stations at user defined intervals.
Why not use a car/smartphone FM trasmitter?
You totally could. It might even be better in some situations if you don't mind a slightly larger, more expensive device with an extra battery to charge. Keep in mind you'd lose the ability to live broadcast with a microphone or play audio directly from the PirateBox.
Going forward
In my next version I'd like to improve the PirateBox interface and make a way for users to rate playlists while having Pifm automatically play the highest ranked tracks. Users could upload music and vote on which tracks gets played. It'd be your own personal short range interactive digital-analog radio station hosted on a private intranet.
Bonus**
Here's a .img file for your convenience. Just install it to an SD card (at least 4 gb) and run it in a Pi Zero to get started. Note: auto broadcast on FM isn't enabled by default so you'll need to add a cronjob as detailed in the guide if you want to activate this feature.
Be aware that using that 60 Hz monitor, you won't benefit from >60 fps which you might get using a 1070 at 1440p (obviously depending on the game).
This is the wireless adapter I use, great:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG
Thanks for the guide! I used it to set up Homepass on Windows 10 with the TL-WN722N tonight. I had to disable my MAC filter on my router's 2.4 GHz band before it would work (in retrospect, this is obvious since the MAC address of the wireless adapter is cycling through the entries BASE256.txt).
I'm not sure how current the list in BASE256.txt is; after getting 10-20 streetpasses within an hour, I got only one in three hours.
I ordered a tp link wireless adapter on Amazon that can handle up to 150mb/s you just plug it into your motherboards USB port. [Here's a link.] (TP-Link N150 Wireless High Gain USB Adapter (TL-WN722N), Version 2.0 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SZEOLG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf)
The 150mbps, when I bought it it was just under $20 and the other one was around $40 I think. The other one isn't the 300mbps it's the AC600. They both look the same and with an antenna, just one has higher bandwidth and can use 5ghz network, the 150 is only 2.4 ghz compatible.
Now you can get the AC600 for under $20, good deal.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N-Version/dp/B002SZEOLG?th=1
Wow, i feel like we are issue twins :D * excuse the humor *
I had exactly similer issue 6 monthes ago wifi was highly capped on my laptob at around 4 - 7 mb/s while my other devices are 40 - 50 mb/s
anyhow for me at least it was internal card issue maybe weaken over time or something,
another reason for you maybe that your intenal card is forced to use 802.1g/b please check next time you in hotel which gives you terrible bandwidth options ( go to task mamanger - > Performance tab - > wifi -> look for connection type ) .
MY SOLUTION :
i bought 2 cheap USB adapters : TP link's Wn722n and Wn823n each 24 $ or something
and Ta da, my speed was up to roof back to normal range of other devices (using the antenna based wn722n right now), i dont really suggest it unless u dont mind the size but overall i had better range with it than with wn823n, please hence both are single band 2.4 .
Links :
wn823n : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0088TKTY2/
wn722n : https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN722N-Wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B002SZEOLG
if money aint a big issue i still suggest the Alfa dual long range because its state of art and long term usage friendly and when you get bored of it easy sell used .
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B002SZEOLG/
Another option for you if money is tight, it should be the n150 option. I own this and it works out of the box with kali via live usb and also works in windows10.
Were you able to connect before using macchanger? If not, it's not a Kali or macchanger thing, it's a visualization thing. VMs don't not have direct access to host hardware, the guest OS is separated from the host by a hypervisor.
If you already know this, I'm not trying to sound condescending. It's just a common question on here. I've gotten a bridged adapter to recognize my wifi as a wired connection before, but I can't remember how I did it. Maybe I am remembering incorrectly. Google around if you want, but it's infinitely easier to get a USB adapter or use a wired connection. I use this one:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG
There are better ones out there and people on this sub will usually recommend a better one, can't remember which one. Anyway, you'll want one capable of packet injection.
> edimax wifi dongle... Is the performance of this dongle better than the onboard wifi?
It might work better. I wouldn't expect it to be that much better, but try it and see.
Simply, WiFi is slower than hardwired Ethernet.
On top of that, you are using the Pi 3 or the Edimax for WiFi, which have the same problem. They are tiny receivers and transmitters using a tiny antenna. I have had a lot more luck getting decent WiFi speeds out of an access port, or using something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_23
NOTE: I haven't tried the TP-Link WN722N on a Pi. I don't know if it works.
yikes. I barely touch -80dBm
The link you posted seems kinda expensive for something that may not work in my case.
Will this antenna and this adapter work?
You mean one of these?
The wifi range on that is about 820 ft, less than the depth of the ocean in the area the plane went down. The structure of the black box would probably inhibit that signal somewhat, and the water even more so (yay thermoclines). Even then that doesn't really help us much because if you're within the wifi range in the area where it's most useful (on land) then you can probably already see the crash site pretty easily.
And hey, guess what? They already have multiple black boxes on planes. You can't really guarantee that floating would help them though, because they're just as likely to get trapped under wreckage as anything else that floats. These black boxes also give off a radio signal that can be tracked, although as we saw with the Malaysia Airlines flight this also has its limitations.
I've used the TP-link Wireless Adapter before and it's been pretty reliable and cheap. Lasted me through two different builds before I decided to upgrade. I linked the usb version but they have a PCIe version as well.
If you have a nicer router with features like dual band, AC, etc. then consider saving up for a nicer high end wireless adapter to take advantage of higher speeds. I'm currently using the Asus USB N53 and it's been reliable too.
Sorry for the late response Devinmaking, I looked over that motherboard, and as far as I can tell, it should run Linux without issue. It has an older audio codec (Realtek ALC887), so any recent kernel will support it. It also has an Intel LAN chip, which are known for having excellent support in Linux.
As for Wifi, most any Intel or Atheros based card will work without issue. However some Realtek and Broadcom based Wifi cards can a hassle to set up, or not be supported at all.
AFAIK, both the TP-Link TL-WN722N and Panda 300Mbps Wireless N USB Adapter are supported by most distros.
As for using a spare router as a repeater, I haven't ever done that myself, but I think you'll have to make sure the spare router is as fast as your other equipment, otherwise it will limit the speed by being the weakest link in the chain. So for instance if it's only a Wireless G router, and your other equipment is faster Wireless N stuff, you'll only run at the slower G speeds. If your internet connection is slower than the rated Wireless G speeds anyway, then none of that matters. :)
Anyway, hope that helps. \^_^
i like this one. external antenna capable, supports any mode you could need, dirt cheap and prime'able.
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG
Personally using a tp link one (one with an Antena. 600rs.).
It worked with no issues. Having a 50mbps connection. No drops in speeds, coverage and no latency problems either.
TP-Link TL-WN722N 150Mbps Wireless USB Adapter https://www.amazon.in/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-DFODb4AAY6MZ
I've used the TP Link TL-WN722N a lot with good results and have bought a couple of them; however, the price seems to be going up for some reason so I'm not sure if it's as great of a deal.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505216714&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=tp+link+tlwn722n
As someone who had a hell of a time with Wireless Adaptors under linux I can safely say that I finally have one that just works. The TP-Link TL-WN77N works on Ubuntu 13.04 without issue. Plug and play, it also supports Windows 2000+ (Win8 is in beta but works fine).
http://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-TL-WN722N-150Mbps-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1377603967&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=tp+link+tl+wn722n
Just a suggestion, there are so many other good products out there than C&A. Just make a VM of Kali and get any wireless card that can do monitor/promiscuous mode. It's just
&#x200B;
Any alfa card should work i think but I use the following.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN722N-Wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=atheros&qid=1554314194&s=gateway&sr=8-5
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUSO36NH-Wireless-Long-Rang-Network/dp/B0035APGP6/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=atheros&qid=1554314194&s=gateway&sr=8-8
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Wireless-External/dp/B00VEEBOPG/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=AWUS052NH&qid=1554314402&s=gateway&sr=8-2
I have a sliding door partition to separate the driving area from the rear. I'm able to VHB tape my Outdoor Antenna to my immediate right of my drivers side head rest looking straight out the window. Works great. If you have time warner cable in your area you'll be able to bum a friends or family login information and pickup hotspots all across the city.
I have the outdoor antenna wired from the front running to the rear by attaching a N Male to RP-SMA cable -----> high gain usb wifi adapter N150 works fine ------> using a usb extension cable connect laptop.
Also if you wanted to connect multiple devices you would want to look into hooking up a repeater to your external antenna. I was thinking about building a raspberry pie with a miniature lcd + connected to a router programmed for a repeater. I would be able to connect / program different wifi networks on the fly.....however my setup above works fine for me.
I have had great results with this card:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SZEOLG
You are correct. In my experience, this is generally not a problem. The hotel is probably giving you a slower uplink anyway. Or, even if you're not getting max speed, you're getting plenty to watch Netflix easily.
I'm not aware of a native two-radio travel router. However, being that I am a network engineer and interested in this kind of thing, I eventually ended up looking for a dual radio solution just to see if I could make it work. If nothing else, at least this gets my LAN traffic off the same frequency as the other nearby hotel guests on my same hotel AP.
I started with a Ravpower Filehub that I already had. I was going to link you to the Amazon page for it, but it appears they have reused the same page to sell a new version of the device that doesn't look like mine and I don't know if it can be used in the same way. The one I have looks like this:
http://www.getdatgadget.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/RAVPower-All-In-One-FileHub-3.jpg
That travel router is nice because it has a built in USB battery bank. That can be nice when you're trying to find the magic spot in the hotel where wifi is strong enough. I find the best positioning without cables, then plug it in.
I installed OpenWRT on it and went looking for a USB wifi radio to add on. OpenWRT has limited support for USB wifi radios, and in fact I couldn't find anything 802.11ac. I eventually found this dual-band N adapter, which is supported:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SZEOLG
This gives me a true two-radio solution. The USB radio is dual-band and the internal radio is 2.4 only. OpenWRT isn't a super user-friendly solution, but it works for me. For example, it is up to me manually to set the LAN/AP channel to make sure it isn't simply sitting on the same channel as the WAN/client radio.
I have used this in a number of hotels (I travel a lot) and it works well with my Chromecast. This gets me past the captive portals on the Chromecast, and also on devices that are technically captive portal capable but annoying (like the Kindle). One login on any device is all it takes for all of my devices, no matter how many or which ones I bring.
I've even used it in a hotel with 128 kbps Internet that was too slow to stream. I was able to use Plex on my laptop to stream local content across the travel router's LAN to the Chromecast. The slow Internet WAN wasn't enough to stream on, but it was enough for the Chromecast to load apps and consider itself connected to the net.
One caveat: Some hotels limit the max speed of each client. If you log into their network with your phone and laptop as different clients, they each get a share. If you use a travel router, they both have to share a single client's allocation.
Random other advice: You know how streaming sticks often come with a short 3-inch or so HDMI extension cable? Use it. One of the hotel TV HDMI ports destroyed my Chromecast's HDMI connector (it actually pushed one of the pins on the Chromecast's HDMI connector back), and it would have been better if it had just destroyed the HDMI extension cable.
The overhead is not too bad. You can use any normal power supply for a Pi, and then buy a $13 WiFi adapter with monitor mode like this. If you are using Raspberry Pi 3, which have builtin regular WiFi for the communication, then each node costs ~$60. This is less than half the price of the similar dedicated hardware out there.
I think you should ideally have N-1 Pis, where N is the number of rooms you want to learn. With smart placement you can probably get by for less. I haven't tried Pi Zeros, but they should be able to be used as well, since this is not too CPU intensive.
This is what I use. Pretty good range and the chipset jives with Linux.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002SZEOLG/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is what you want $15 and you are good to go. That is unless you have faster than 150mbps internet.
Agreeing with buying it all in one go.
The parts used above is very similar to my build, but I bought the parts at EasyPC North Avenue, except for the SSD and wireless network card which I bought at Octagon SM North EDSA, and the monitor which I bought at PC Express Makati Cinema Square. Take note that Dynaquest Philippines doesn't include the 12% VAT amount in the item's display price.
Type | Item | Price at Purchase
---------|----------|----------
CPU | [Intel Pentium G4560 3.5Ghz Kabylake] (https://tipidpc.com/viewitem.php?iid=40997798) | ₱ 2995.00
Motherboard | [MSI B250M Pro VDH] (https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/B250M-PRO-VDH.html#productFeature-section) | ₱ 4400.00
Memory | [Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 8GB 2400 DDR4 1x8GB Red] (https://tipidpc.com/viewitem.php?iid=40996584) | ₱ 3350.00
Storage (SSD) | [WD Green PC SSD 240 GB] (https://www.wdc.com/products/solid-state-drives/wd-green-ssd.html#WDS240G1G0A) | ₱ 4000.00
Storage (HDD) | [Western Digital 1TB Caviar Blue , SATA III] (https://tipidpc.com/viewitem.php?iid=40994388) | ₱ 2400.00
Video Card | [Zotac GTX1050Ti Mini Single Fan 4gb-128bit DDR5] (https://tipidpc.com/viewitem.php?iid=40998316) | ₱ 7150.00
Case | [EasyPC Rakk Phantom X White-Black] (https://tipidpc.com/viewitem.php?iid=40993820) | ₱ 650.00
Power Supply | [Corsair VS450 APFC, 450watts] (https://tipidpc.com/viewitem.php?iid=40997483) | ₱ 1650.00
Monitor | [Philips 227E7QDSB/71 21.5 inches LED IPS] (http://www.philips.com.ph/c-p/227E7QDSB_71/lcd-monitor/specifications) | ₱ 6100.00
Keyboard and Mouse combo | [Rapoo NX1700 Optical Mouse and Spill Resistant Keyboard] (https://tipidpc.com/viewitem.php?iid=40994811) | ₱ 370.00
Wireless Network Card | [TP-Link N150 Wireless PCI-Express Adapter (TL-WN781ND)] (https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Adapter-TL-WN781ND/dp/B0036AFAEW/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496570183&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=WN781ND) | ₱ 650.00
Assembly fee | Assembly fee | ₱ 100.00
| TOTAL: | ₱ 33815.00
You can try out some builds using pcpartpicker.com, however, prices there don't reflect actual prices in the Philippines. My build can be seen here: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/tqhR9W
Buy a new wireless card. Here is a cheap one:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Adapter-TL-WN781ND/dp/B0036AFAEW/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_lp_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=ZG31YN21PDS12QZSKX6M
Here is a nicer one (may be unnecessary):
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Express-Adapter-TL-WDN4800/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498623987&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=pcie+wireless
New GPU will be the biggest improvement. 1050 Ti is a quick and easy upgrade generally ($150).
SSD for OS wouldn't hurt.
Up to 16G ram if you are feeling like a boss.
yo, you don't need a Z97 chipset motherboard. this H81 chipset will perform exactly the same and is £30 less.
Also, you want an internal PCIe wifi adapter, 1. because it's faster, 2. you're not using up one of your USB ports. this one will do the trick.
A card like this would fit in the small white slot to the left (below) the x16 slot, but I don't know what the difference this has on WiFi cards. The amazon card advertises 150Mbit though. This would allow you to have both GPU and WiFi cards simultaneously.
Edit: Though I want to reiterate that the 2500 is far more expensive than the ever-so-slightly worse 2400, and the same price as the better 3450. Get one of these two.
Chances are, any USB WiFi adapter you get will have a MediaTek (formerly Ralink) or Realtek chipset. Both of these companies publish OS X drivers, which work under Yosemite. Before you buy an adapter, check what chipset it has at [WikiDevi](http://www.wikidevi.com] and cross-reference with the drivers from MediaTek or Realtek's site.
FYI, USB WiFi adapters won't integrate with OS X's network picker, so you'll have to load a utility every time your computer boots in order to connect. Personally, that's enough to push me towards a PCIe card. I use an $15 TP-Link WN881ND that works with just a small modification to IONetworkingFamily. The commonly recommended card is the $36 TP-Link WDN4800, which is plug and play without any modifications.
This one. It's pretty much the cheapest thing TP-LINK makes but I really only need internet access for now (no data transfer within home network) and this was enough for by internet speed and cheaper than a long cable/powerline solution.
This one has a really good rating for a PCI card
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0055TNERM/ref=aw_1st_sims_1?pi=SY115
This one has a better rating but is PCI Express
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0036AFAEW/ref=aw_1st_sims_2?pi=SY115
My recommendations are based off of the reviews on amazon and not from personal experience. They are also both not expensive.
Definitely don't try just add random amounts of cat5/6 to your antenna. That won't work.
Here's a monoprice USB extender. Not sure how good it is, but it's pretty cheap:
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Extender-CAT5E-Connection-150ft/dp/B003L14ZTC
Do you actually have a separate Ethernet jack you can use for this? Also, not sure if wyzesense supports multiple instances of the device at once?
I've not tried it personally, but a person used ser2net & socat to share a USB device (in their case a z wave hub) over IP to their home assistant instance. They wrote an article about it here:
https://blog.paul-steele.com/tech/2018/12/25/homeassistant-kubernetes-zwave-oh-my.html
Of course, this requires another device which may be more of a pain than a USB extender.
There are also USB over Ethernet adapter which would let you run much further: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Extender-CAT5E-Connection-150ft/dp/B003L14ZTC
Perfectly! Put an RJ45 on each end, then there's a transmitter and receiver. I plug one end into my nvidia shield or vivopc, other end by the TV with wireless dongle and presto! This is the ones I use, I have 2 and haven't had a problem with them at all:
Monoprice USB Extender over CAT5E or CAT6 Connection up to 150ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L14ZTC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_uWKuxbTAWFAYG
Im talking about these
Yeah my mistake, its not adapter, its an extender
The USB standard doesn't support enough cable length to make this work, but Ethernet definitely does. You could run Ethernet drops (Cat6 preferred) between the locations, and then use a set of USB over Ethernet adapters to make the connections, like this
This is probably your best option, you do have others such as using your network to create RTMP streams or using a WiFi bridge with the adapters I mentioned but you will get lower latency and better performance if you can use Ethernet.
Eh, not really.
This device requires ethernet, right?
http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET30DP-10-Inch-Extender-Cables/dp/B003LZA95W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421190159&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=hdmi+over+cat6&amp;pebp=1421190255020&amp;peasin=B003LZA95W#productDetails
Most modern graphics cards have at least 2 outputs, and there are cheap converters between dvi>hdmi or displayport>hdmi
Oh, for the USB...
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Extender-CAT5E-Connection-150ft/dp/B003L14ZTC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421190187&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+over+cat6&amp;pebp=1421190545439&amp;peasin=B003L14ZTC
Use a logitech wireless kb/mouse combo with the unified receiver and that takes care of kb/mouse. You could use a cheap hub if you wanted to use a game controller. Signal degradation (or rather ACK timeouts) only really cause problems when you're trying to transmit data like with an external HD, for simple HID you'd be surprised how long of a cable you can use.
If you've got to run ethernet to the TV, it's no more trouble to run 3 wires instead of 1. If you're doing it the right way instead of the halfassed way, it's still going to require cutting a hole in drywall to hide the wires. Cat5e/Cat6 cable is cheap as dirt anyway. No lag from streaming and this is the same price or cheaper.
I guess if you wanted to do this with multiple screens in different rooms it might make sense, but otherwise I don't see much point.
We've bought these for our SMART Boards when the (usually terrible) SMART branded USB extenders fail: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Extender-CAT5E-Connection-150ft/dp/B003L14ZTC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478141285&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Monoprice+usb+extender
use something like this to give them the mouse and keyboard at the podium, and you keep the computer with you at FOH
Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L14ZTC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1426986198&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+ethernet+extender&amp;pi=AC_SX200_QL40
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
Would something like this work in conjunction with a VGA cable?
We already have Ethernet cable and vga cable, and it would seem we'd still have to extend a proper KVM box somehow.
I just purchased some of these to do the same thing in my master bedroom and the living room. So going to my tv is 1 long HDMI cable (about 50ft) and a Cat 5e cable. So far they are working well. Also I did buy that exact same USB Hub for the TV end of the connection.
USB can go 15m from what i remember.
https://amzn.com/B003L14ZTC
As ePaperWeight mentioned, your shopping list would have a lot to do with what you plan on doing with it.
Keep in mind that the Pi Zero is very cheap partly because it does not have nearly as many ports as a full size Pi. It also has a less capable CPU than a full Pi 3. That being said, it's still impressive that its CPU and RAM are in line with older Pis that were used in all sorts of projects.
The lack of ports means that if you want to connect to USB, HDMI, Ethernet, or Wifi you will need adapters.
For the bare minimum for getting started I would suggest the items included in this kit (not necessarily suggesting the kit itself, these are all standard parts):
https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Zero-Starter-Kit/dp/B01N3XNPAM/ref=sr_1_1
This will allow you to get a Zero to boot up and display on a monitor. The single USB port will limit what you can connect, but a wireless keyboard / mouse dongle will at least give you standard input devices.
In order to connect Wifi or Ethernet in addition to a keyboard you will need a USB hub; preferably a powered hub.
To connect a Pi Camera you'll not only need the camera module, but an adapter ribbon cable (the Zero's port is slightly smaller).
The GPIO header does not include pins. This is more configurable, but means that you'll need to solder your own.
As you can see, all this can quickly add up. The Pi Zero really highlights the value of a full Pi. So if you're considering the Zero in order to save money run the numbers. You might not be saving much.
The size and lower power requirements of the Zero make it great for embedded projects. Anything that runs on a battery or needs to fit in a small case would benefit from using a Zero. Even then, the faster speed of a Pi 3 means that it will be a smoother experience to program on the 3 even if you plan to migrate the software to the Zero.
Other links for reference:
TLDR; Pick a project and work backwards to figure out a shopping list. Otherwise you'll spend way too much or your new Zero will probably live in a desk drawer.
I get the "trying to make it work" and all...
But honestly? Just buy another wifi adapter.
You can get them for like $7US, shipped to you in 2 days: https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY
Thanks for the all the interest guys! Wasn't expecting this sort of response.
I'll give you all some details on the build so far.
To confirm this isn't for taking onto a flight! The type of case is called flight case.
The case is a flightcase with a foam inlay. The foam has since been ripped out.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/flight-case-with-foam-n70ap
A compact but easy to use wireless keyboard + mouse.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/maplin-mini-wireless-deskset-n69jx
The screen is a 10.1 LCD screen with a 12V LCD controller I got off ebay.
http://www.66ino.com/index.php/raspberry-pi-10-1-tft-lcd-display-module-1280x800-hdmi-vga-av-controller-cable.html
The battery is a 12V 5000mAH NiMH battery pack:
http://www.componentshop.co.uk/12v-5000mah-sc-nimh-compact-battery-pack.html
A USB powered 7 port USB hub from the pi hut to power the Rpi
http://thepihut.com/products/7-port-usb-hub-for-the-raspberry-pi
A 5V UBEC (Universal Battery Elimination Circuit) for stepping down the 12V battery to a constant 5V to power the USB powered hub. You can't see the UBEC in the image, its under the LCD Controller.
http://www.hobbywing.com/product_show.asp?id=209
An Edimax EW-7811UN 150Mbps Wireless Nano USB Adapter
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Edimax-EW-7811UN-150Mbps-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B003MTTJOY/
There are some other minor things like a power switch for the battery. A port for plugging in a 12V DC jack to charge the battery or power the system completely without the battery.
There is also an extension for the ethernet port.
My girlfriend is helping with designing a internal frame/case for the components in the bottom and a mount for the LCD screen. This will probably be in perspex plastic, with an inlay for the keyboard to sit in.
So it looks like Dell does not have win 10 drivers for that model. If I had to guess its some type of wireless driver issue. You could buy one of those usb wifi adapters for home use, they are pretty cheap
Maybe get one of those and test at home. Its a head scratcher right now since it works on campus but not at home
> 16gb of ram if it fits in the budget
16GB is very unnecessary if you are only planning to do gaming. 16GB is useful for video editing, video editing, etc. Also, you will have to spend an additional $100 for 16gb because RAM prices are off the roof atm.
&nbsp;
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | $193.44 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard | $56.98 @ Newegg
Memory | Team - Elite Plus 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $88.99 @ Newegg
Storage | SanDisk - SSD PLUS 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $54.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $41.77 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 3GB SC GAMING Video Card | $189.99 @ B&H
Case | Phanteks - ECLIPSE P400 TEMPERED GLASS ATX Mid Tower Case | $59.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA - BQ 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $39.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $756.14
| Mail-in rebates | -$30.00
| Total | $726.14
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-11-16 17:39 EST-0500 |
&nbsp;
This build has a lot of upgradability in the future. I would suggest upgrading the GPU and then the RAM in the future if you want to keep this build.
Edit: forgot your [wifi card] (https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY?psc=1&amp;SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&amp;tag=duckduckgo-d-20&amp;linkCode=xm2&amp;camp=2025&amp;creative=165953&amp;creativeASIN=B003MTTJOY) here you go [:)] (https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY?psc=1&amp;SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&amp;tag=duckduckgo-d-20&amp;linkCode=xm2&amp;camp=2025&amp;creative=165953&amp;creativeASIN=B003MTTJOY)
I personally don't think you can wrong with any choice of adapter. I purchased two and I've had good results with both (first 2):
TP-Link @ $15
Media Link @ $20
Edimax @ $10.. more concealed for a laptop
Again, can't say specifically on which I prefer... they're all great. Check the reviews though, they're insightful!
an alternative to consider may be an actual laptop, maybe a refurb you can find cheaply, from which you physically remove the wireless NIC. if you wanted to connect to a wireless network, you could simply plug in a usb wifi adapter. there are some adapters, like this one, that boast native support for linux boxes. the advantage here is that a cheap refurb would have the horsepower to handle everything you wanted to do, as well as providing 100% certainty that it isn't transmitting any data since the adapter's physical presence in a usb port is required.
just be sure to look for a device with easy access to the nic (ymmv).
just my opinion on this - pay $15 or so and get a USB wifi that works in both Linux and Windows. Less time spent on a frustrating issue - wifi on Linux.
http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY?ie=UTF8&amp;keywords=usb%20wifi%20adapter&amp;qid=1464277887&amp;ref_=sr_1_4&amp;s=pc&amp;sr=1-4
This dongle is less than 10 bucks, 3/4th of this things size is the usb adaptor, and it can pull in 150Mbps
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_1stExbDBVS47F
Don't get my wrong 70Mbps is great, but it's by no means pushing technology or hard to acquire
I have several of these floating around works in everything I've thrown it in.
Edimax EW-7811Un 150Mbps 11n Wi-Fi USB Adapter, Nano Size Lets You Plug it and Forget it, Ideal for Raspberry Pi / Pi2, Supports Windows, Mac OS, Linux (Black/Gold) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kutExb2MV5KDY
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=twister_B01EMS6TVE?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Sorry, I'm not familiar with debugging drivers. Quick google reveals it might involve turning debug mode on with ifconfig, running /etc/netstart and viewing more verbose dmesg resulting from debug mode. See ifconfig (8):
http://man.openbsd.org/OpenBSD-current/man8/ifconfig.8
Two USB adapters I've had success with using OpenBSD 5.9:
USB-ethernet (axe driver):
http://www.apple.com/shop/product/MC704LL/A/apple-usb-ethernet-adapter
USB-wireless (urtwn driver):
https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY
SSDs and HDDs do the exact same thing : store data.
Regular HDDs store data on platters that rotate (think a record player) and can be noisy, hot, and slow. SSDs store data on a chip (think a flash drive), and can be expensive.
They both have pretty important benefits, though : SSDs are really fast, and HDDs can store a lot more data for your dollar.
To put it in perspective, lets say you have $125 to buy a hard drive, you can get an SSD that will hold about 250GB, or a HDD that will hold about 3000GB for the same money.
As far as Wi-fi, most motherboards don't have wi-fi built in, so if you aren't near your router and/or don't want to run a cable from the router, you will need to buy a wi-fi adapter. Even decent wi-fi adapters are pretty cheap - I have this one from amazon and it works great and is nine bucks:
http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-Adapter-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/
I have not thought of that, but it is certainly interesting.
How would you connect your wifi adapter to said antenna? I typically use this Edimax one, do you open it up to solder a uFL connector on? I like the idea, but I'm not sure how to standardize the connector/ antenna for all the potential wifi adapters people use.
Yep! So used to seeing zero w's on here.
I had a regular zero first, then got a zero w. Here is the wifi module to get:
Edimax EW-7811Un 150Mbps 11n Wi-Fi USB Adapter,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_djPdzb5P8FP7A
Plug and play. I had initially gotten an edimax with wifi and Bluetooth which was not plug n play. I did eventually get it all set up but it was a pain as it took internet to install an internet device! (Had to download some stuff from github to get it to work)
Short story- I still have that edimax dongle I linked, so I asked my sister in law who lives near a micro center to pick me up a pi zero and a pi zero w. She mailed them today and I'll have them Monday for MSRP!! So that will make 8 pi's so far....... but my last plain zero most likely.
Edit: by plug and play I do mean that you'll still need an micro USB-> regular USB adapter. Those are plentiful out there.
From what I am seeing it uses broadcom, so I would think it would work. I would check drivers and see if you just have to enable 3rd party driver.
Have you tried to run off cd/USB in live mode to see if it works there?
Edit: you could also get this for $8 and it will work. I use on my Raspberry Pi running Raspbian. Just have to plug it in, so should be same with Ubuntu. Only thing is monitor mode not available (if you need)
I would add 2gb more RAM, then upgrade the cpu to this, and finally put in this. For the WiFi receiver I use this for LANs because it's easier than bringing a cable, but it works, not much you can want.
Wifi adapter could be like https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Adapter-Support-TL-WN822N/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=sr_1_36?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478394701&amp;sr=8-36&amp;keywords=usb+wifi
Monitor, maybe http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236174&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10446076&amp;PID=3938566&amp;SID=
I have tried lots of cards and have never found one I have been happy with. It's either the hardware is weak or the drivers are terrible.
The only wireless solution I've found that has worked well for me is this little guy right here. Drivers are simple and solid, it's high gain so it picks up very weak signal (ours picks up a router that is behind two cinder block walls), and it just works.
I've used something like this for a while and I love it.
You could also buy powerline ethernet adapters, but your house needs decent wiring for those to work.
How far is this machine from the wireless router? If the distance isn't too far you can get away with using a USB wifi adapter.
Here is a good example TP-LINK TL-WN722N
This is the best WiFi dongle you are ever going to have. I have used it in extremely congested WiFi traffic scenarios and this bad boy works amazingly. Only downside, it does not have 5ghz but I have never felt the need to switch because it works so well. Also it's portable unlike a lot of solutions people are posting requiring plugging it into the mother board. And it doesn't hurt that it is very reasonably priced.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00416Q5KI/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481466990&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=tp+link+wifi+adapter&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31bm1O6%2B7GL&amp;ref=plSrch
It's not a bad investment to have a portable wireless device around that is reliable with Linux for problems like this. It would give you a temporary workaround while you install the needed updates. Plus, they're fairly cheap and you can use them anywhere to install Linux on other problem devices. Something that uses the ath9k driver is almost always a solid bet.
I have one of these, and it is really fast: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00416Q5KI/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have had that exact wireless card in a netbook I used to own. I have gotten brcmsmac to work before in Gentoo and other distros with it, but it was always unreliable. The wl driver works MUCH BETTER with this particular wireless device.
I found a good description of what might help you in this thread. http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=1889170&amp;p=11502676#post11502676
Blacklisting all the conflicting modules should help.
USB to Ethernet works flawlessly for me. Definitely worth the money. I got this Y cable and this Ethernet adapter for under $18 altogether. That way I can charge my tablet while the adapter is plugged in for longer sessions. Great performance all around.
Charging is not possible with the Ethernet to micro USB adapters, so I highly recommend this setup if you go this route. Nvidia recommends using a Y cable on their website as well.
http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Network-Chromebook-Specific/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416590926&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=usb+ethernet
I just got this one off amazon. Works great. Speedtest on my laptop was insane
No idea about metal/silver models, but Plugable and Microsoft are top options:
I suggest sandpaper and metallic spray paint to match the look and feel of the Surface.
As for an SD card, the device already has a micro-SD card slot so you could get a micro->regular adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;field-keywords=micro+SD+to+sd+card+adapter
Hope that helps.
You can buy other adapters...
I use this one: Plugable USB 2.0 to 10/100 Fast Ethernet LAN Wired Network Adapter for Macbook, Chromebook, Windows 8.1 and Earlier, Surface Pro, Wii, Wii U, Linux, and Specific Android Tablets (ASIX AX88772 chipset) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_fPCqub01TFGA4
Works great!
This is what I cam here to recommend.
These work on almost everything I've ever thrown them at.
I have the same issues a have literally tried everything including hardwiring it. There is something seriously wrong with this firmware version. TV reset, Network reset, bought
Plugable USB 2.0 to Ethernet Fast 10/100 LAN Wired Network Adapter for MacBook, Chromebook, Windows, Linux, Wii, Wii U & Switch Game Console https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.ZhNBbWK84Q26
The TV does the same thing. Nothing works and TCL said we can't repair your TV it's out of warranty. Umm it is not the TV it's the firmware.
This TV have been flawless till this firmware version.
Firmware v8.1.0 Build 4140
Your best option is to use a wired connection.
[USB Lan Adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Network-Adapter-Chromebook/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491928220&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=wii+u+usb+lan)
I use this one and it works perfectly. No issues.
http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Network-Chromebook-Specific/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419210728&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=wii+u+lan+adapter
I have a USB otg cable and an Ethernet to USB adapter and it doesn't work on the galaxy s5
The base Wii firmware is horrible for connecting wireless. A few things:
Try moving your wii u into the room with the wireless access point, as the closer you are in proximity to the access point, the less interference there will be. If this doesn't help at all, the best thing to do would be to get a wired usb to cat 5 adapter. you can plug this into the wii u's USB ports and connect a wired ethernet cable. This is the one that I purchased.
I'm not high level enough to comment about specific frame data or anything, but a wired connection is pretty much guaranteed to perform better than a wireless one. If you're worried about financial risk, I've linked a very inexpensive adapter below. It's not first party, but reviews indicate it is compatible with Wii U.
http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Network-Chromebook-Specific/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421890624&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=usb+ethernet+adapter&amp;pebp=1421890634103&amp;peasin=B00484IEJS
Hope this helps!
I use this one with an OTG adapter mainly for my Nexus Player and my Chromebook without issue.
No, but it's kind of already there.
I used this USB-to-Ethernet adapter with my Macbook Air when I first set up my wifi router. It seemed to work quite well.
This is the one I use on my mk808 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00484IEJS?ie=UTF8&amp;at=&amp;force-full-site=1&amp;ref_=aw_bottom_links
Most of those cheap dongles use the same ASIX chipset; there's no need to pay $17 for the BobJGear model. I like the Plugable one myself ($12):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00484IEJS/
I've found even the $5-6 models off eBay work fine with both my Surface RT, Surface Pro, Macbook Pro/Air, and any of my Chromebooks, as long as they have that ASIX AX88772 chipset.
I was having trouble with the Wii u not connecting to college internet. I went out and bought a ethernet to usb from Bestbuy and started getting the "plug in the Wii LAN adapter message. I found out it only takes certain adapters for some reason. I got this one off of Amazon and it works out perfectly.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00484IEJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Hope it all works out for you!
That's what I'm using. The important thing with WinPE is that the driver is 'net' class and not 'usb' class driver. By default, WinPE will ignore loading drivers if their not the right class. You can open the .inf for your drivers and check this. Here's the adapter I'm using.
Why get a usb 3.0 adapter for a wii u? It only has 2.0 plugs. It's a waste of money.
I got this one for my Wii U.
Works as good as anything else. You still get dropped from games though since they're generally hosted on other peoples wii u (who have wireless).
Link to the adapter. It explains why it's better in the video. The TL;DW is the official Nintendo adapter is USB 2.0 and this is USB 3.0 so the transfer speeds are just inherently faster. Plus it's like half the price of the official one.
The greatest thing you can do is find a way to run a Cat5 cable to your Switch and buy a USB Ethernet adapter. I bought this one, it has the exact same chipset as the official (and more expensive) one:
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00AQM8586
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQM8586/
Could be your ethernet port is broken. If that ends of being the case (and if you have a 3.0 USB port), you can get one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00AQM8586
Technically yes but the best ones to get are the USB 3.0 Adapters. If you look on the inside of your Switch Dock you will notice one of the two USB Ports is Blue. The blue indicates USB 3.0. Here’s a link to the exact one I have. I’ve had it for about 6 months and it works wonderfully. There are a few other 3.0’s to choose from that I’m sure all work just as well.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQM8586/
The ASIX AX88179 chipset is the same chipset used in the official Nintendo adapter.
I just ordered this one
I think most of your questions depend on how you plan to use your Switch. For me, 99.9% of the time I use it in handheld mode, so accessories important for my usage are different than someone who primarily uses it in docked mode.
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Hope this helps as a starting point!
This one got much faster speeds than the official Nintendo one, and I’ve encountered no issues since the update. https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00AQM8586
Just be conscious that it requires a specific chipset, i went with this adapter and it works well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQM8586/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
i got one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQM8586/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
it really helps when downloading larger games to have a wired connection.
I have my computer wired to the steam link. I bought this USB Ethernet adapter for only 15 dollars so that I could have two network ports, one for the steam link and one for internet access.
This one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQM8586/
I know this is more of a workaround than a real solution, and you may want to get it working correctly. However, I had the same problem and eventually just gave up, [bought one of these] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQM8586/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1), plugged it in and called it a day.
This adapter is also pretty good and essentially doubled my speed. I was getting about 40mb down on wifi and now I get about 80mb connected.
I have this(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQM8586/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1), it was simple plug and connect for me.
This is correct - to elaborate, I purchased one of these to plug in the ethernet cable from my modem, and it works great (if you don't have a second ethernet port, I would recommend it).
I think the M700 is only available in the Tiny form factor. Great machines, I have had one before and still have a couple M83p units.
http://psref.lenovo.com/syspool/Sys/PDF/ThinkCentre/ThinkCentre%20M700%20Tiny/M700%20Tiny.pdf
Per the specs the NIC is an Intel I219-LV which is a pretty common Intel desktop NIC, but is NOT COMPATIBLE.
See the following link for 2016 compatible NICs:
https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/articles/000022599/network-and-i-o/ethernet-products.html
I have seen a lot of people use USB adapters for Lenovo Tinys before, I actually got THIS adapter myself for my M83p Tiny. Haven't tried it yet though. I checked and it's supposed to be compatible with ESXi, so idk about Windows compatibility.
So I ended up purchasing this one, along with a USB female to micro-USB adapter. It seems that Raspbian supports it OTB, and if I should decide to repurpose my Zero for something else I can always use the ethernet adapter with my MacBook Pro. Thanks again!
My first search results for "Cable Matters" came up with
https://www.cablematters.com/pc-489-138-usb-20-to-10100-fast-ethernet-network-adapter.aspx
that explicitly states " This product is NOT compatible with the Nintento Switch." (Mispelling theirs.)
The 2nd adapter didn't say the same thing on their own site but did on their Amazon listing.
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Ethernet-Adapter-Supporting-x/dp/B00BBD7NFU
Is it a different model?
It'd be interesting if it was just that particular build.
Visible in this picture by notebookcheck: http://www.notebookcheck.net/fileadmin/_processed_/csm_links_7ee57ece3f.jpg
Under "Connectivity"
http://www.notebookcheck.net/Lenovo-ThinkPad-X1-Carbon-2016-Core-i7-WQHD-Ultrabook-Review.162631.0.html
EDIT: Could always get a USB to RJ45 like this: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00BBD7NFU
This sounds like your Ethernet port on your motherboard is getting locked down to Fast Ethernet speeds for some reason.
If you're willing to throw $14 at it, grab one of these and see if that makes a difference.
In reality, you don't need most of it anymore. Serial port? Small USB-to-serial adapter, job done. Optical drive? Basically never need one, when you combine stuff like server iDRAC and IPMI with remote management, and OS installs can be done off USB sticks.
The one thing I do wish my Surface Pro had is an Ethernet port, but I've managed to work around that also (usb3 to gigabit adapter).
Battery life? Well, a HP Spectre X360 15 inch - what may well be the best laptop of 2016 in my book - will have all-day battery life, and 4 USB ports (one USB-C, 3 A), plus HDMI and DisplayPort.
Arguably, a 15 inch slim ultrabook like that and a serial port adapter and USB3 bluray will still be less to haul than some ugly old brick. And if you find yourself standing in a data center needing to operate it one handed, it flips into tablet mode with a touch screen.
https://www.amazon.com/VicTsing%C2%AE-playback-Blu-ray-External-desktops/dp/B014OSZF4Y
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Converter-Prolific-Chipset-TU-S9/dp/B0007T27H8
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00BBD7NFU - or better yet this, if you want more USB3 ports also: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B01J6583NK
But, in answer to your actual question, no, I'm not aware of an old school brick with tons of ports that's worth buying. A few accessories you can keep in the bag until you need them makes more sense anyway - in my opinion.
Well, unless you go to rugged or semi-rugged designs. They have to be so bulky anyway that they toss in a ton of ports.
http://en.getac.com/notebooks/S410/features.html perhaps or machines of that style.
Dell also makes semi-rugged. Panasonic Toughbook etc. But all these rugged models cost a premium. Then again, if you get stuck in a snowdrift, you can use them as shovels, so... :)
Or else, you can go all out! :) http://en.getac.com/notebooks/X500-Server/features.html
If it's an under $1000 ASUS Ultrabook you're after, I'd go for the ASUS Vivobook V301LP. Light, high quality IPS display, dedicated graphics (albeit weak ones), and 8GB RAM. There is no ethernet port, but you can get a USB to RJ-45 Adapter
Right... just reporting back on my findings on this and also looking for some help.
I've not been able to watch 4K films on my TV up until this point.
FIrstly, I bought this adaptor:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00BBD7NFU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I "forgot" my WiFi settings so the TV had no internet connection. Plex was showing "No Connection".
As soon as I plugged it in it started flashing and Plex started working again! So... result so far!!!
Then I tried to play a movie that had the following audio...
The video was "direct play" but the audio (detailed above) transcoded and, unfortunately, it still buffers now and again?
However, if I play another audio stream which is "direct play" then the film plays fine without buffering?
Does anyone know what's causing it to buffer when I'm transcoding my audio??
If I check the bandwidth, CPU and RAM whilst it's transcoding the audio, the bandwidth seems to spike around 260Mbps (the CPU and RAM seem very low and steady - around 20% for both). However, the bandwidth spikes don't seem to correlate with the buffering? It can go to 260Mbps and then drop to 150Mbps - then drop to around 100 and suddenly 'buffer'?
Anyone know where to direct my attention next to fix it so that I can also transcode audio?
(BTW X-play seems to be worse than Plex for some reason - unless there's settings in X-play I don't know about - I've only used it once before?)
This is a massive leap forward as it is. Just being able to play 4K films is great. But it would be amazing if I could also play the proper audio?
Thanks for your help :-)
Note: TV is LG OLED65C7V
I have this one. Works perfect.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BBD7NFU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F42V83C/
https://www.amazon.com/RT-AC66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1750-Gigabit-Router/dp/B008ABOJKS/
I bought an Asus PCIE for $95~. It was great, but something popped in there and now it's making an annoying noise. I couldn't ignore or tune out the noise so I decided to buy a cheap USB one. I honestly don't see a difference..
If it's a desktop get a pci or pci-e adapter like this or this. The more expensive ones will have better range/speed
Didn't use it long before I sold it, but I never had issues with the ASUS PCE‑AC68. It's AC1900 and about CDN$ 118 for a new one.
LINK
Edit: Added Amazon CA link. Canadian dollar pricing
Yes I do (Althought I always recommend Cable over Wifi ,but I'll just assume that isn't a possiblity for you :P )
The Archer T series are good. The 3 models come up as top, T6E , T8E , T9E. Some do 802.11AC wifi others don't. Depends on your router and home network if you would have any use for that.
Those are all PCI Cards you place inside your PC. The Asus PCE-AC68 also deserves a mention if we are talking about High performance Wireless cards. Althought its expensive.
You can also go the USB route, you'll end up with dongles like this Netgear AC1200 which is a excellent USB options, but once again pricey (See the trend, dont worry we are getting there)
A more affordable PCI Options would be this TP-LINK WDN4800 N900 or a USB dongle like this TP-Link WDN4200 N900
And if you are really low on funds you could go for something like the Asus USB-N13 for 18$ or TP-Link N300 which is only 11$.
Personally I'd recommend you grab the TP N900, either the PCI or USB variant would do fine , PCI is faster, USB is probably a bit more versatile as you can use it with any PC/Laptop. N900 gets great reviews all around and it supports 802.11N , should be plenty fast for gaming. One issue the N900 seems to have is Digital signage with W10 ,so you need a different driver than the official one to get by this issue and use 5ghz. Not sure if thats relevant for you.
Either way ,you see the trend, Asus and TP-link are really my go2brands for anything networking.
I realize I still gave you a ton of choices, might not be the most helpful, but atleast you'll have some direction to look.
$2400 4K Gaming PC
Max settings at 4K resolution will bring any existing hardware to its knees, but we can come very close to your desired 120fps. You should expect to get better framerates substantially higher than the benchmarks below because the video card in this build is clocked 13.6% higher than the reference model.
The key to achieving the highest framerates at 1440p and 4K is simply to include the strongest video card possible. This means the RTX 2080Ti with the highest boost clock frequency we can afford.
PCPartPicker Part List
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-9700K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor | $299.99
CPU Cooler | be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 50.5 CFM CPU Cooler | $90.00
Motherboard | Gigabyte Z390 GAMING X ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $119.99
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $69.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Sabrent Rocket 2 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $249.98 @ Amazon
Video Card | MSI GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB GAMING X TRIO Video Card | $1199.89 @ Amazon
Case | NZXT H700 ATX Mid Tower Case | $109.98 @ Amazon
Power Supply | Corsair TXM Gold 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | $89.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit | $137.90 @ OutletPC
Wireless Network Adapter | Rosewill RNX-AC1900PCE PCIe x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $59.99 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $2457.70
| Mail-in rebates | -$30.00
| Total | $2427.70
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-09-25 21:49 EDT-0400 |
Explanation of Part Choices:
This is the wifi adapter I got for my desktop when I moved into my apartment with Fiber. Link
It does a pretty good job considering. I live in a 1400sqft apartment and the fiber box is in my dining room and my desktop is in the office is on the other side of the apartment. I get like 300-400 down usually.
I've also found success in splitting off the 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz. The 5Ghz band is a lot weaker but I still like to connect to it because I get so much faster speeds.
I use the ASUS PCE-AC68 AC1900, after experimenting with other cards and usb wifi adapters this is easily the most stable I have used.
Here is an amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VXQ7CbW5DHTWC
It has its good days and bad days. Im just gonna grab something similar to this. https://www.amazon.ca/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C .
USB wifi adapters are notoriously bad, I'd go for the card. I can't say anything about the one you linked but, I have this one and it works awesome (pc upstairs, router downstairs)
https://www.amazon.ca/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493999913&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=asus+wifi+adapter
Asus makes some excellent PCI-E Wi-Fi cards. I have a PCE-AC56 and it has worked flawlessly for me for over two and a half years. It's well within your price range and it offers excellent performance. If you're looking for something a bit more powerful, the PCE-AC68 is basically the upgrade to the PCE-AC56, and I can only assume it performs slightly better. A final choice is to go balls to the wall overkill with the PCE-AC88, which I find hard recommending unless you need massive range and signal strength, which doesn't seem to be something you require. It's also out of your stated price range, so this one is entirely up to you. Any one of these should handily solve your problem. If you're looking for a good quality Wi-Fi solution that doesn't take advantage of your wallet like a prison bitch, the PCE-AC56 is a great choice.
Never does. The dual and triple band stuff never works for me. I've even moved the router in the same room as my pc... it got worse.
Wifi is great for every device but my PC. My next option was to purchase either this:
https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-PCI-E-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482931397&amp;sr=8-13&amp;keywords=wifi+pci
or this:
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482931397&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=wifi+pci
For me personally, I used an old ethernet cable and ran that shit literally around my room. I could not justify the $60-$90 to buy a better PCIe card. Another Option could be to get a USB dongle and then have it on a long USB Cable that you can position to get a good signal (maybe?)
Just a personal opinion, always connect desktops to routers via Network (Cat6) cable when possible, that said:
Basic troubleshooting steps;
=====Still not working=====
=====Still not working=====
Look into a new wireless card;
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=psdc_13983791_t1_B00JNA337K
https://www.newegg.com/asus-pce-ac88-pci-express/p/N82E16833320313
What.
It should be noted that Wifi works well on Linux Kernel 5.1.16 following the instruction given on the Killer support site.
"Here's some good news! I updated my XPS 15 7590 to the latest kernel and firmware packages (linux 5.2.2.arch1-1 and linux-firmware 20190717.bf13a71-1), and the Killer AX1650 worked without any modifications! No need to remove firmware files or pull in iwlwifi backports. So, with this kernel and firmware combination, Killer AX1650 should work out of the box on a fresh install of Arch Linux." - 2019-07-24
The bad news is that the Linux Mint default kernel version is currently 4.15.0-58-generic and the above solution is specifically for Arch Linux - which can get extremely technical. Better news is that it will likely be incorporated into Linux Mint fairly soon as WiFi 6 becomes the new standard for hi-speed WiFi.
EDIT: USB WiFi for $15 and be up and running. This is what I would do for now.
I'm not sure why you are getting downvoted. Seriously, for the $8-15 it costs for a WiFi adapter, @swervelord just buy one that's supported. This is not a good road to go down. It will never "just work", it won't perform great in the best scenario (probably a few Mbps), and will always be aggravating. And you'll have to do it all over again every time you reinstall/change distros. As someone who's used Linux for 15+ years, is a professional Linux sysadmin on the server and desktop for 10+ years, just don't waste your time with unsupported wifi cards.
https://imgur.com/gallery/P4cFs
I’m happy with the quality of the aluminum case.
I had to get a high gain wifi adapter because my bedroom is far from my access points. An older adapter is still on there because I haven’t taken time to reconfigure the OS to work without it.
The NX4 gets its data via USB and draws power via a separate USB port. Since it is battery powered, I can actually keep it topped up off the Pi, although it charges quite slowly.
If what you care about is picking up a weak wifi signal you are probably better off with an external USB wifi adapter with actual antennas. From my reading on these, these can make a huge actual difference, and transform a wonky connection to a rock solid one.
Something like this - this is just a cheap one, if you are focused on range, read reviews and get one with the best range. But key is, you want something with a big honking antenna on it.
There are also repeaters, although I think if you just have one device you need range on, you are better off the USB external adapter route.
There are also "pocket routers" like the HooToo TripMate that /u/age_of_bronze mentions, and I have on of these myself- a TP-LINK WR710N which from the look of it is pretty similar to the HooToo. These are great for setting up a private network or to share an internet connection that is limited to one device, and they may indeed provide a modicum of range extension, but if range, specifically, is your goal, you are better off with something with a significant antenna and probably a USB adapter.
My recent Linux wireless experience:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JDVRCI0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
By the way Kubuntu recognized every device including my printer that was connected to the system.
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I realize that you are stuck with the NIC that's built into your system unless you want to add a compatible USB Nic and that's frustrating. Problem is that Linux is only 3% of the market and they can't support everything out of the box.
Oh and my last computer had a proprietary NIC Windows didn't recognize it and I had to install drivers. Kubuntu picked it up and plugged and played it.
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here's one
Basically nothing of this will fit into the second case. The mainboard for example is ATX, and in that size finding a X470 board is not an issue. Are you dropping the idea of later moving to the small case?
Things I'd change in the S340:
> If I want to wirelessly connect it what’s the best option?
In the small case, the ITX mainboard will have wifi included, and that is really the best option here. Your only alternative would be a Wifi USB-stick. For a regular ATX board you can get a wifi card like https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K. But if you are not moving the PC around anyway try to use an ethernet cable.
> Also if I have the budget should I put more into the keyboard or different monitor.
I'd get a different monitor then, something like this Agon up to a Gsync monitor like the ASUS PG279Q
LAN is superior to Wifi in almost every way. BUT, I know in some situations running an ethernet cable is either not possible (because they would need to run a wire through their whole house since they don't have built in LAN ports in their house). Wifi WILL cause you to have SLIGHTLY higher ping and can have issues such as losing connection, or lag. BUT if you need to go with wifi, get a decent Wifi card, dont go with a little USB thing or a cheap wifi card. Ive tried both and they suck. So my recommendation is 1)if possible, do LAN, 2)if not possible, buy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K/ref=sr_1_8?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518132118&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=wifi+card
I use the ASUS PCE-AC56 PCI on my second PC. Zero complains.
Something like this will fit in the PCI x1 slot.
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K
Or this if you have incredible internet speeds.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0159222VS/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&amp;pd_rd_i=B0159222VS&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_p=f52e26da-1287-4616-824b-efc564ff75a4&amp;pf_rd_r=68MZZBDS37M5KNMBGXD2&amp;pd_rd_wg=q5qEs&amp;pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&amp;pf_rd_t=40701&amp;pd_rd_w=x1Bd0&amp;pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&amp;pd_rd_r=9efd62e5-ce33-11e8-84cd-5d1350972647
Whoops, here's the asus:
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496763615&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=asus+wifi+card
Finally, after all these reviews, i'm going to buy these pieces and build my masterpiece-wannabe.
I would like to thanks /u/Raffles7683 for his dedicated, nice and smart help ! Also, thanks to /u/DIK-FUK and /u/golli123.
That's it, the final configuration, which is 2€ cheaper than the first one. WHAT A SAVE. But it's all the way better. I finally picked a I7-6700k as a CPU since nobody seems to know at which point a I5-6600k will bottleneck the GTX 1080, even with a 4.5 Ghz overclock. The debate is running litteraly everywhere and no one has the same point of view. So... I guess i can throw 100€ by the window to be sure and to overlock a i7 to 4.4 Ghz.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU |Intel Core i7-6700K | €325.79 - Amazon.it
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | €34.99 - Amazon.it
Motherboard | Asus Z170-P ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | €109.61 - Amazon.fr
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | €126.04 - Amazon.it
Storage | Sandisk SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | €74.00 - Amazon.es
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | €53.44 - Amazon.fr
Video Card | KFA2 GeForce GTX 1080 EXOC 8GB Video Card | €560.00 - French shop
Case | Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case | €76.32 - Amazon.de
Power Supply | Corsair CSM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | €78.99 - Amazon.es
Wireless Network Adapter | Asus PCE-AC56 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | €48.00 - Amazon.de
Monitor | Acer XB271HU bmiprz 27.0" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor | €699.90 - French shop
| Total | €2187.08
I will provide some news in the future with, probably, in build photos :)
> It really depends. Not all laptops are equal, nor are all PCIe cards. If you want the best wifi signal I suggest getting a card with an antenna you can move to a good spot.
A good choice: https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495461120&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=pci+ac+wifi
ASUS PCE-AC56 Carte PCIe Wi-Fi double bande AC1300 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00JNA337K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wwJIBbJ0HZKMY
Don't know your budget but this is a good one https://www.amazon.ca/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K
Here it is, looking back I got it on sale for $45. I think wifi 6 is out now but not very mainstream, maybe wait for manufactures to start making wifi 6 cards for future proofing.
Amazon link for this
What will the machine be used for?
If the primary use is for gaming, I recommend a i5 and use that money saved on something else.
As for AIO, it's only necessary if you plan on overlcocking (which I assuming you are since you did pick a K processor). Otherwise, it's a purely aesthetic factor that costs $100+.
Also, I would advise that you get a wireless network card that supports AC as well. I have this one from Asus and it has been phenominal. I don't know if you have a AC compatible router at home but it's worth spending a little extra for more futureproof-ness.
There are always USB adapters such as this one or ones that go into your PCIE slots if you have an open slot and your CPU has enough PCIE lanes such as this one .
Sorry for the delay in getting bck to you from the other thread. Life, ya know?
That looks pretty good. I've had bad luck with TP-Link stuff, preferring these Asus WiFi cards when I can use them. Can't say if you can find one where you are but, if so, I'd go with that instead.
Sorry to keep linking to Amazon but I hate PCPArtPicker. :P
1: wifi card: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JNA337K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
2: i wouldn't say its necessary, but its future proof for a while. The bare minimum for a gaming desktop is 8GB. personally, i'd say go for it. Make the upgrade to 16, even if you're not using 8 right now.
3: NZXT S340 is always a good go-to case. Cheap, great cable management, a place to actually hide most of your hard drives and cables, etc.
4: be tedious. Check everything over 2 or 3 times. Wires are in the correct place and snug. motherboard is properly spaced as to avoid shortages. Hard drives are configured correctly. Ram sticks are in the correct recommended spots as per your motherboard manufacturer's guide. It's so much better to take longer and get it right the first time than to have some of your stuff sent back because you messed up and fried it/broke it/didn't make sure it was compatible ahead of time.
When I had a MiBox I bought this one
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Network-Adapter-Ethernet-1000Mbps/dp/B00LLUEJFU
Worked great and is external powered (not required for just Ethernet) so the USB hub will work great too.
Here's a list of adapters with that chipset on Amazon. I've noticed this one a couple times. My main concern is whether or not the cable is long enough to use with the Switch dock without having to leave the back flap open.
Sure. This is it
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Ethernet-1000Mbps-Nintendo-Chromebook/dp/B00LLUEJFU/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=usb+ugreen+ethernet&qid=1568996801&s=gateway&sr=8-13
UGREEN Ethernet Adapter USB Gigabit Network Adapter 10/100/1000Mbps/1 Gbps with USB 3.0 Hub 3 Ports for Nintendo Switch, Wii, Windows Surface Pro, MacBook Air/Retina, iMac Pro, Chromebook, and More PC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLUEJFU/
Not a problem. I will say I haven't pushed it to the very edge of what it claims in terms of support for 4k super ultra mega UHD dolby whatever, so bear in mind I can't really speak for that. But I think you'll do well with the mi box. If you want ethernet, I bought a UGreen USB 3.0 Hub that includes an RJ45 jack, and it works well.
Sorry, the USB adaptor I purchased is this
That is a a Gigabit adaptor.
I understand the port to the Firestick is only USB 2.0 but that still has a theoretical speed of 480mbs.
I would rather have a hardwired 480mbs connection Vs Wifi.
I've had success with the ugreen with both the Mibox and Nintendo Switch : https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Ethernet-1000Mbps-Windows10-Nintendo/dp/B00LLUEJFU
You should be able to stream 4K even on 50 mbps speed but if you still want improved speed then you may TRY (i'm not sure it'd work) this UGREEN USB 3.0 Ethernet+USB combo. This works with MiBox as expected so it may also work with your Sony TV.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLUEJFU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
17 bux on amazon to never have to worry about wifi in my living room. On the go, well that's another story. But at least playing on the tv there is no longer an issue.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-1000-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00M77HMU0/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_23_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=65HYYQEYR0ZKVFX0G6A0
AmazonBasics USB 3.0 to 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet Internet Adapter
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00M77HMU0/
I think OP is referring to things like this: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1000-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00M77HMU0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467374779&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=usb+3+ethernet
Although if he is talking about USB over IP there is native kernel support for something called USB/IP which can be found in the kernel source code.
This one will be faster. Though, if your ISP wired your house then I would see if they can come out and test the line that runs from where your PC is to the modem. It is possible that there is an issue with the cable they ran.
Pick one of the two items below and once you've got it, plug it into the usb slot on the back of the dock. Aside from that you just need an ethernet cable.
The main difference between the two items is that the Amazon Basics adapter doesn't have a cable long enough to plug it in and close the docks back door. Apparently the Ugreen adapters calble is slightly longer and will allow you to shut the door.
Amazon Basics
UGreen Adapter
USG OTG Cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FY9Z9GD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Ethernet Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1000-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00M77HMU0
20-50 sounds too much...
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1000-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00M77HMU0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1517501395&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+to+ethernet+adapter
His final specification are a bit rough, I'd be hard to find that super close to $500. But, I do know that CUK has custom laptops that has what he needs, and it is still under $1000.
How about the CUK Vivobook F510UA? It has:
The laptop runs Windows 10 Home. There is no Ethernet included, but you can buy a USB to Ethernet, like this one for only a few dollars. This laptop is decently light for the price range and components, may or may not be useful for you.
About upgrading gaming components, if your child already has a CPU/Motherboard/RAM, your child probably would want to upgrade the GPU first which will boost gaming performance a lot. The extra sum of money after buying the laptop can be used for a new GPU, a GTX 1080s have been touching $300 ever since the new GPU release.
[AmazonBasics is only $14] (https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1000-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00M77HMU0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539889768&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=usb+ethernet+adapter)
Works great for me.
I bought this one and it works great, except the cord from the USB to the adapter is too short to fit through the cord slot on the back of the dock, so the dock flap needs to be open. This isn't a problem for my setup since the dock sits inside an open cabinet in our tv stand and you can't see the back of the dock. I think I remember a thread on this sub where someone recommended an adapter that does have a cord that fits through the slot, allowing you to close the back flap, so if that's an issue for you, do further research.
One other important thing to note: the ethernet adapter does nothing for handheld mode. This is probably obvious, but it's worth noting just in case someone doesn't know this already. I play the Switch almost exclusively in handheld mode except for Splatoon, and this adapter makes a huge difference for that, it's like night and day. I should probably start playing Rocket League on the tv as well, but I love being able to play in handheld mode and not hog the tv.
Is there any difference between a generic USB 3.0 to Ethernet adapter like this and the Hori product that is made specifically for the switch?
I want to get an ethernet adapter because I'm experiencing horrific lag on Street Fighter II. I'm hoping that the adapter will clean some of that up.
it works out of the box if you buy one with drivers in the mainline kernel. Just go on Amazon and search for 'USB ethernet linux'
edit: I'll make my post more useful and add that I've used the Amazon Basics USB 3.0/Ethernet adapter and works perfectly across all OSes: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M77HMU0
Heads up, the Amazon Basics USB 3.0 Gigabit Ethernet Adapter has the AX88179 chipset and is confirmed to work perfectly on the Switch. It's a simply plug-and-play installation.
Just make sure you get the USB 3.0 version and not 2.0 and you're golden.
And FYI, the AX88179 chipset actually has a 2-3% failure rate in the first 6 months so no matter what brand you get, you have a small chance of it dying on you in the first year. So I recommend the Amazon Basics one simply because of their customer service. You know Amazon will gladly send you out a new one no questions asked with 2 day shipping if yours stops working. It's also the cheapest of the bunch as well so that's another plus.
It's cool to hear that I'm not the only one facing this issue! So you are talking about this one?
Yes, pretty sure anyone using any kind of LAN adapter makes the Switch warm when sleeping since firmware 5.0, kind of the same behavior as the Wii with WiiConnect24 enabled.
I don't think it's necessarily bad that it's getting warm, its just weird that when using wifi only, its still connected to the internet while sleeping and does not gets warm at all!
I'm looking at the Ugreen one since it's a USB 3.0 ready, is at a good price and no one seems to have trouble with it. Just want to be ready before Smash is out!
Apparently, the Amazon Basics 3.0 one works.
I can personally confirm that this one works.
I use this on my MiBox 3 and it works flawlessly, so it should work on the Shield.
You just get one of those and plug the cable in your Switch dock.
That's it.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1000-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00M77HMU0
C'est quoi une carte fibre?
Bell installent un modem, si on peut appeler ça comme ça, qui fonctionne sur de la fibre. De l'autre côté, t'as un port Ethernet Gigabit que tu branches dans un routeur. Après ça si ta carte mère est antique pis qu'elle a une carte réseau qui supporte juste 100mbit, t'achètes une carte interne ou USB.
Si la fibre rentre direct chez vous, à moins que le réseau soit congestionné, tu vas l'avoir ton gigabit. Si c'est juste de la fibre jusqu'au poteau pis qu'après ça c'est du DSL, c'est une autre histoire.
I use this Dell adapter.
Dell Adapter, USB Type C to HDMI/VGA/Ethernet/USB (470-ABQN) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012DT6KW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_P-2FzbPN3Y5VT
Or just use the amazon basics USB3 to gigabit if you don’t want to pay a high price for the thunderbolt license.
AmazonBasics USB 3.0 to 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M77HMU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_J.2Fzb6B7HBM1
yep.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1000-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00M77HMU0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503434551&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+to+ethernet
totally a thing. but why bother? your laptop supports AC, so wifi should be plenty fast; unless your router doesnt do AC in which case....
welcome to living on the bleeding edge of tech ;)
Instead of the $29 official Apple one, you can buy a third-party ethernet adapter. For example this $12.99 one from Amazon Basics. It's ugly though.
Unless you have over-100 Mbps internet, the adapter shouldn't make a difference in your speeds.
Is this the one? https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1000-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00M77HMU0
If so and you've already installed the driver was it from here? http://www.asix.com.tw/download.php?sub=driverdetail&amp;PItemID=86 I've seen this once and the problem was caused by the OS security thinking the kernel extension installed isn't secure. In turn, it doesn't load your driver. Pretty sure it's something that has to be updated by the manufacturer.
One could make a ghetto channel bonding router of sorts fairly simply, but that's probably overkill for the average lone nomad.
Or with the advent of thunderbolt/usb3.1, you could even just do it with your one computer if you aren't doing a vehicle.
Speedify will let you bond a bunch of connections together and short of thousands and thousands of dollars in equipment, it's the best thing going.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UhBeD5fRAmY
you can just keep slapping wan connections in whenever you are. take an arbitrary number of 4G, wifi, ethernet sources and combine them for bandwidth and latency improvements.
As a thought exercise lets take this picture and built out something for it.
1 person, 1 laptop, carry-on travel mode style. It's gonna be very Dongle-y, so it's practical mostly for when you camp out somewhere for a while to work. This probably isn't worth setting up at the airport unless you are trapped a good long while.
That laptop we want to have a solid peripheral bus with lots of bandwidth. Ideally Thunderbolt 3, but the 10gb USB, or honestly probably even the 5gb USB is gonna do for most people anyway.
Then we get a hub device with lots of ports on it.
This thing probably has at least USB3.1, and thus 5.0gb of bandwidth there probably.
amazon makes a perfectly serviceable hub with external power option:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-10-Port-Power-Adapter/dp/B076YRWV6Z/
Then you grab a few usb3.0 to gigabit ethernet adapters for flexibility of input:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1000-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00M77HMU0/
plus some USB wifi adapters (so you can get on multiple wifi networks at once)
This is apparently the amazon favorite. Having an actual antenna is nice.
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-1200Mbps-TECHKEY-Wireless-Network-300Mbps/dp/B07J65G9DD/
plus USB 4G modem sticks you can put local sims in. This is all gonna depend on where you travel. NA is different from Asia, etc.
Verizon offers one for $250 they claim works in 200 countries. On the other end, a Huawei stick that works in most of the world is like $60 and you can just keep popping sims in and out of them as you travel around and grab local ones. You can probably even just buy modems locally too as you travel. If you aren't buying from a carrier in north america, it's generally gonna be easy and painless.
You could also use phones as well. cheap ones have modems that can max most towers anyway, and they mostly all use the same antenna design now.
Some little baby usb extensions so you aren't fighting to fit things in your hub:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Black-Extension-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00S2N2Q4U/
All those things are tiny and can go in a little electronics roll or bag or something at the bottom of a backpack:
https://www.amazon.com/ProCase-Electronics-Organizer-Universal-Accessories/dp/B01EN4PP4E/
Okay I changed a few things to save you some money and get more bang for you buck.
*Why pay more for the same SSD
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $194.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $49.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Crucial 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $26.99 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | Sandisk SSD PLUS 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $41.39 @ Amazon
Storage | Hitachi Deskstar 7K2000 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $54.85 @ Amazon
Video Card | Gigabyte Radeon R9 380X 4GB WINDFORCE 2X Video Card | $224.49 @ SuperBiiz
Case | Deepcool TESSERACT BF ATX Mid Tower Case | $33.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $74.99 @ SuperBiiz
Monitor | Asus VS228H-P 21.5" Monitor | $99.99 @ Amazon
Keyboard | Microsoft ANB-00001 Wired Slim Keyboard | $12.99 @ Directron
Other| XBOX 360 wireless adapter| $15.99
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $830.65
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-07 00:49 EDT-0400 |
I have these:
Wireless-AC 7260 for Desktop Network Adapter
Alfa Long-Range Dual-Band AC1200 Wireless
Rosewill RNX-AC1200UBE - Dual Band Wireless AC1200 Adapter
All work fine with an RT-AC66U.
I use this: https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Wireless-External/dp/B00MX57AO4/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467488433&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=wifi+usb+ac
Note that the included usb dock is 2.0. I am still using the dock though as I have not had any reason to buy a usb 3.0 dock.
Here's 2 products I'm currently considering.
2.4Ghz 2000Mw antenna - $50 CAD
vs
5Ghz dual band Usb 3.0 antenna - $86 CAD
What do you think should I get? the more modern 5ghz dual band one or the much bigger and beefier 2000Mw antenna?
To be totally honest, if you're trying to replicate wifi, then use a wifi dongle.
These SDRs are not going to be able to provide the frequency range or the bandwidth you need.
You can get an Alfa wifi dongle (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MX57AO4/) for about $40, and using them in promiscuous mode will allow for more options akin to what you're trying to do.
To echo what /u/Just7 said, the wired network adapter and soundcard are unnecessary. You might also want to consider dropping the PCI wifi adapter and look into something like an Alfa, which is cheaper, tends to perform better, and frees up a precious PCI slot.
In theory, a high gain antenna talking to a normal access point will increase the range substantially. High gain antennas on both ends obviously are better. A repeater could be used if a reasonable place to put one and a reasonable source of power are both available, but where I'm sitting I can get the faintest bit of wifi on cool calm nights so I'm expecting a better antenna to solidify that connectivity.
I just ordered this so I'll konw in a few days how well it works with the stock antennas, if I can avoid buying directional antennas that would be super.
I would get a USB wireless dongle, USB extension, and a directional antenna. To make this work, the dongle must have a removable antenna. If shipping is not an expense, I would buy step-by-step, starting with the dongle, then extension, finally the antenna (and antenna mounting solution).
I have no personal experience with this equipment. It was chosen because of features (like replaceable antennas) and Amazon reviews.
Alfa AWUS036AC Long-Range Dual-Band AC1200 Wireless USB Adapter With 2x Dual-Band (2.4GHz / 5GHz) external antenna for Extreme Distance Connection - Up to 300 Mbps - USB 3.0 - AC1200 Wireless chip - USB desktop Dock Included
CableCreation Gold (Long 16FT) Super Speed USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable, USB 3.0 Extender USB A-Male to A-Female Cable, 5Meter/16ft, Black
Alfa APA-M25 dual band 2.4GHz/5GHz 10dBi high gain directional indoor panel antenna with RP-SMA connector (compare to Asus WL-ANT-157)
All together, this is 95 CAD, but I expect the first item will solve the problem. If you do get the high-gain antenna, try it as a replacement of each of the side antennas on the USB dongle. This is because one antenna might be more important to the device then the other.
I have the z97-E version which doesn't have integrated Bluetooth but I got a generic Bluetooth dongle working and this wifi adopter working with el cap.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MX57AO4/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Link and I can also vouch for this one. Works great.
I'm not going to say this will totally work for you because I don't know all the factors that made this work for me but here is what I did. (my switch was also too far away to run a cable to). I bought this https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Pass-Through-TL-PA4020P-KIT/dp/B010Q29OW6/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509712689&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=ethernet+powerline+adapter and this https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Ethernet-Adapter-Nintendo-Chromebook/dp/B00MYT481C/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509712641&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=switch+ethernet+adapter&amp;dpID=41xJwvUzySL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
The powerline adapter was easy to set up and in my house the outlets they are in are on different breakers and that seems fine. After setting them up, plugging in the switch, and setting it to run on wired not wi-fi there's one more thing I did. In a connection test I saw my nat type was B also, everyone said that wasn't great and it should be A for best performance so after lots of googling I figured out how to change that in my router settings.
For me I have comcast so to get to my router settings I type 10.0.0.1 into my address bar and enter the default username and password for comcast (admin ; password) then on the left there is and advanced tab and under that DMZ. Enable that and for the host set the switch's ip witch you can see in the connection test, mine was 10.0.0.11 yours will probably be different. Save that then run a connection test again and it should be type A. Whatever router you have should have something similar so just google how to set up dmz for your specific brand.
After doing this I very rarely disconnect.
USB Ethernet adapter plugs right into the usb on the dock, the one I bought is $9 on Amazon, then you plug an ethernet cable from your router into the adapter which you can also get fairly cheaply on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com.au/Ethernet-Adapter-Network-Nintendo-Chromebook/dp/B00MYT481C/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=usb+ethernet&qid=1559051016&s=gateway&sr=8-4-spell
&#x200B;
This is what you need if Ethernet will solve your problem.
Yes, USB to Ethernet. Best Idea ever if you use the Switch not Mobile. For the Station. so its really good. I used it for the WiiU and now for the Switch.
https://www.amazon.de/UGREEN-Netzwerk-Ethernet-kompatibel-unterst%C3%BCtzt/dp/B00MYT481C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501233983&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=nintendo+switch+lan+adapter
here is one but there are more of them in amazon. There is a Adapter sell from Nintendo but that is to expensive.
://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00MYT481C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_a3iNzb0BGNAR9
Nope, this one :P
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Ethernet-Adapter-Nintendo-Chromebook/dp/B00MYT481C/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525189536&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=lan+adapter
This one is only $10. Depending on your router, you may not notice a big difference though. I've played both ways and do notice a little less lag when using the adapter.
I haven't heard of bogus ethernet adapters causing issues unless we're talking some no-name brand from Alibaba. There's a good chance you bought the same one as me from Amazon which hasn't given me problems: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYT481C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
What I suggest is to try out your other Switch games to test out their connection. Or you can setup a Battle Arena with competitive ruleset to attract someone who probably has a wired connection - or ask a friend/Discord rando to join your arena and test the lag. If it works, then it's the opponent's bad connection, but if it doesn't, it's something to do with yours.
I use this one. It works great and hasn't bricked my system.
To my knowledge Nintendo aren't selling one themselves but there are a load you can buy that should work.
I am using this one, UGREEN USB Ethernet , USB Network Adapter - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MYT481C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I've had no problems with it and all I had to do was plug it into the Switches dock
I'd like to put this here as a cheaper alternative to the official Nintendo adapter. Haven't had any problems with it, works great.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYT481C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Yep, running a headless server with no GUI autostarting you're looking at around 50MB if pihole is the only thing running on the device and you're using Raspbian Lite, Minibian, or a similar lite distro.
Honestly I'd get both units, use the old Raspberry Pi to play with the GPIO and programming, and the Pi Zero just for pihole.
I used this adapter, works perfectly fine. A little expensive, but I wanted something that Just Worked....the first batch of generic ethernet adapters I bought were really cheap and really crap.
https://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads/raspbian/
Download the lite version, put a SSH file on it:
>The boot partition on a Pi should be accessible from any machine with an SD card reader, on Windows, Mac, or Linux. If you want to enable SSH, all you need to do is to put a file called ssh in the /boot/ directory. The contents of the file don’t matter: it can contain any text you like, or even nothing at all. When the Pi boots, it looks for this file; if it finds it, it enables SSH and then deletes the file.
Plug everything into your network and turn it on, look for the new device in your DHCP leases in your router. Assign it a fixed lease somewhere easy to remember (as my network is 192.168.8.x, and the router/gateway is 192.168.8.1, I like .2-.10 for servers and other fixed address devices for example).
Connect to rPi with ssh on a linux box, or putty on a windows machine. Log in with the default credentials of pi, raspberry.
sudo apt-get update
sudo apt-get upgrade
sudo apt-get dist-upgrade
change credentials is you wish
sudo reboot now (this get the new IP addy from the router, you could restart networking too)
log back in
curl -sSL https://install.pi-hole.net | bash
If everything goes well, set the new IP addy in the router to be served to your LAN.
Nothing to it huh?
Get an Micro USB to Ethernet Adapter.
Last thing you want is your wireless DNS Server to go down.
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Compatible-Raspberry-AX88772A/dp/B00RM3KXAU
Ok, great. So what I'm thinking now is that I would have the Xbee plugged into its grove development board and house those at the top of the tower- that way with the dev board it can be reprogrammed easily, and the dev board can send serial data down the tower without me having to house anything else important up there that might also need maintenance. I would then need to use a micro USB to ethernet adapter, like perhaps this one, to connect ethernet to the board and run it down the tower. From there I could plug ethernet into my Rpi/arduino to read the serial data from the dev board and process/log/send it, or convert back to USB to plug into a laptop for maintenance. Does all of that make sense to do?
My only concern is that the reset/commissioning buttons on the dev board won't be accessible, but then I could always power cycle to reset anyway, so I don't think it will be an issue.
I don't think you will find what you are looking for. The Cisco console cable has an adapter built into the cable. You cannot just connect the wires from USB directly to an Ethernet cable and have it work. You will have to have an Ethernet adapter. Why not just take something like this and plug an ethernet cable into it and then put heat shrink tubing over the connector. I think that is the closest thing you will find. If you are looking to extend your USB connection over cat5 you will require an adapter for that as well. You could use this and a USB OTG adapter.
If you could give more information on your "specific reasons" that you don't want to use adapters maybe it would help with suggestions that would meet your needs.
That was my original thought, rPi w/ OLED screen and some batteries (or PoE?)
But I suppose everyone's got a smartphone these days, and $13 is better than $50. (though you may have to root your phone to use it).
If you have an android phone that supports USB OTG, you can just use something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Micro-B-Ethernet-Raspberry-AX88772A/dp/B00RM3KXAU
This guide can set up a pi as an access point.
The 13th comment down on this comment post works to setup a VPN.
A microusb to ethernet adapter like this one might be useful.
I've setup a VPN on a pi and have that ethernet adapter, so I can answer questions about those, but have never setup a pi as an access point. There's also this guide if you want to skip all that. Feel free to ask any questions.
I use these on my nexus players: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RM3KXAU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I got a Pi Zero and this micro USB ethernet adapter. It has been working flawlessly for over a year now.
I played with my Plugable adapter on Nexus 6 and Nexus 7 before leaving it on my Nexus Player permanently. Worked fine, plug & play with no extra steps, should do exactly the same on custom roms of any sort, barring any rom-specific bugs that could possibly mess it up.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RM3KXAU/ref=mp_s_a_1_sc_1?qid=1451779489&amp;sr=8-1-spell&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&amp;keywords=mixro+uab+ethernet
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RM3KXAU/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Do you actually want a docking station, or do you just want an ethernet port and HDMI port?
I have a Pluggable USB 3.0 docking station that I use at the office. It works well, but it isn't USB-C so I have to use an adapter along with it. I believe they have a USB-C version, but I use my docking station for a Windows laptop that only has USB 3.0 on it also.
I have a USB-C Adapter that I carry around with me that offers USB 3.0, HDMI, and pass through USB-C on it. If you look around, you can probably find one that has ethernet in it also.
For ethernet use on the go, I have a USB to Ethernet adapter.
There are lots of options out there below $100. It really depends on what you are trying to accomplish with them.
Here ya go
/u/scratchfury was probably referring to the older Apple Thunderbolt-to-GigE adapter. Sounds like you've got a USB-C model machine. In that case, Anker has one with decent reviews.
>https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Ethernet-Portable-1-Gigabit-Chromebook/dp/B00ZZ6NW5E/ref=cm\_cr\_arp\_d\_product\_top?ie=UTF8
I didn't think I needed any other adapter other than this. Just wanted to make sure it would work. Just to make sure I've got you right, you're saying all I need is this adapter and the driver you provided and I should be good to go?
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Thanks for the reply (:
Yes but the Ethernet connection from the computer to the AP. What is that speed 1 gig? If it’s 10/100 your bandwidth restricted
You’d want an Ethernet adapter like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZZ6NW5E
And you AP needs a gigabit Ethernet port
Would using a USB C to Ethernet adapter work to connect to LAN while in handheld mode?
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-Ethernet-Including-ChromeBook-Aluminum/dp/B00ZZ6NW5E
Here is a basic one on Amazon, looks like no driver needed:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-Type-C-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B01M4J1H1U
A lot on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=usb+c+to+ethernet&amp;s=review-rank&amp;pd_rd_r=d6dee4aa-b3ba-421d-8c05-5c0997c845ac&amp;pd_rd_w=0wMAI&amp;pd_rd_wg=ZWnvm&amp;pf_rd_p=7be70e42-b5c0-4077-873a-35a472a6fbd4&amp;pf_rd_r=A8D9RDB0W94KWDC28RC2&amp;qid=1569954847&amp;ref=sr_st_review-rank
I have had good luck with Anker:
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Ethernet-Portable-1-Gigabit-Chromebook/dp/B00ZZ6NW5E/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+c+to+ethernet+anker&amp;qid=1569954896&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
I bought this for my laptop but turns out it works with my phone too but I have to turn WiFi off in order for it to be recognized
> The issue is that I only have one data port in my living room and it has to connect an Xbox, PlayStation, raspberry pi and smart Tv and I do not want to use a WiFi connection for each.
I got to thinking and there might be a way for you to get all this to work and to bypass the needing too hard wire the ethernet in for the DVR into the network.
So if you don't want to run another home run ethernet line just for the DVR I got to thinking and I remembered ethernet wifi adapters use to be a thing back in the day. You could turn on wifi on the ATT router then use something such as this
https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Ethernet-2-WiFi-Universal-Wireless-GWU637/dp/B018YPWORE
Or pick up an Apple Airport Express (if you want 5Ghz connectivity) and then use wifi to put your DVR to that network. In theory that should get it back on the ATT network, you can put out your unifi switch in the living room and hook everything to it. Then put all the ATT boxes either wirelessly to the same ATT network or use coax.
That should fix everything as long as that ethernet adapter works as it should. Or you might be able to use a cheap power line connector as well.
Rough idea I have is to use a WiFi to Ethernet adaptor to feed into my own router and have my devices connect to my own router, since I cannot normally cascade the routers without an Ethernet connection. Using something like the IOGEAR Ethernet-2-WiFi Universal Wireless Adapter, GWU637 ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018YPWORE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sp6ZAbAT856DJ ).
I think that would work, but not 100% certain as I have not used one before.
A client bridge or something like this: IOGEAR Ethernet-2-WiFi Universal Wireless Adapter, GWU637 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018YPWORE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_q.20Ab6KTZP7M
Best option would be to run hardwired connection
You could try using a CAT5 to WIFI adapter (assuming that adapter supported the network's security methods).
Something like this might work - https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Ethernet-2-WiFi-Universal-Wireless-GWU637/dp/B018YPWORE/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ethernet+to+wifi&qid=1569328089&s=electronics&sr=1-3
So the printer has ethernet but you don't have a drop for it?
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You want something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018YPWORE/
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/VKQzbX
First of all, the 3600 (and pretty much all of the Zen2 cpu lineup) isn't a very overclockable chip, as it's already pushed pretty hard out of the box. Because of this, an upgraded cooler is rather unhelpful in overall performance. The motherboard was also a bit overkill, so I switched it to a good quality B450 board, which should be plenty for the 3600. It doesn't have WiFi capabilities built in, but you can get a cheap WiFi adaptor from Amazon (like this one https://www.amazon.com/EDUP-ac600Mbps-Wireless-External-10-6-10-13/dp/B01CCMUN8C/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3GXD2I0GBLHR0&keywords=computer+wifi+adapter&qid=1564539704&s=gateway&sprefix=computer+wifi%2Caps%2C142&sr=8-3) for cheaper than an upgrade to a board with WiFi. I also changed the RAM to a cheaper, higher frequency (3200mhz) kit. The gpu was changed to a 5700 XT, as it's much cheaper then a 2070 Super and competes and often surpasses it in performance (see https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-RTX-2070-Super-vs-AMD-RX-5700-XT/4048vs4045) , though you may want to wait a few weeks until non-blower cards come out. If you want to get closer to the $1300 USD limit, you could always go with something like this: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/fpbCmG/evga-geforce-rtx-2080-super-8-gb-black-gaming-video-card-08g-p4-3081-kr
Edit: Turns out a lot of people are having a lot of issues with the Tomahawk, so I'd recommend changing it to this: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Pq97YJ/asrock-fatal1ty-b450-gaming-k4-atx-am4-motherboard-b450-gaming-k4
One of the reviews for this one says that Windows 10 will handle it without needing anything else. Can't vouch for the truth of that myself.
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https://www.amazon.com/EDUP-ac600Mbps-Wireless-External-10-6-10-13/dp/B01CCMUN8C?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2
https://www.amazon.com/EDUP-ac600Mbps-Wireless-External-10-6-10-13/dp/B01CCMUN8C/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=edup+wifi&qid=1555794473&s=gateway&sr=8-3
I've also tried this, same results.
https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-Nighthawk-AC1900-Adapter-A7000-10000S/dp/B073JHHNJ9/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=edup+wifi&qid=1555794485&s=gateway&sr=8-5
yeah here are some wifi and ethernet adapters that work with tails [according to https://www.reddit.com/r/tailswiki/wiki/index/tails-compatible-devices ]:
USB WiFi adapters
https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Wireless-Adapter-Dongle/dp/B00GFAN498/
https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/
USB Ethernet adapters
http://plugable.com/products/usb3-e1000
http://plugable.com/products/usb3-hub3me
or you could also just plug in an ethernet cable [instead of using the wlan], which should work too.
I have one very similar to this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY
There are other brands and they range from $6 to $14. You just plug them in a USB and it just works. I have one that I use to pair with a Wii U Pro Controller.
Compared with everything else you buy to build a pc, it's a great inexpensive addon.
Only if you can find someone to test it for you. The connector itself is identical, as you said. The documentation for the laptop might have more information. That said, your wifi slot supports mPCIe, so you can just replace your Wifi card with the eGPU connector. To solve the loss of Wifi connectivity, just use a "nano" Wifi USB stick kept constantly plugged into one of your USB slots: Something like this.
Do you know if this would work? Looks fantastic and cheap.
Not a problem, glad I could help. I use this one. It's super easy to use and works great, just plug and connect. I've had no issues after a year.
Very. You just have to burn Raspbmc or OpenElec (different XBMC distributions for the Pi) to the SD card, plug in a wifi dongle (I use this one), boot the thing up, and everything just works.
$8.68 150MBps USB Nano Adapter
It was one like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UYyTybQNW8V5K
ROBO 3D R1+ $799
Raspberry Pi 2 $38
WiFi adapter $10
Color touchscreen + case $50
Power supply $10
32GB SD Card $13
OctoPrint $0
Large build volume, heated glass bed, self leveling, wireless 3D printer $920
Good article here
http://www.howtogeek.com/139433/how-to-turn-a-raspberry-pi-into-a-low-power-network-storage-device/
Also for the wireless bit, if you don't have an edimax adaptor they work great in the pi 2. Last I checked, these were $10 on Amazon.
Edimax EW-7811Un 150Mbps 11n Wi-Fi USB Adapter, Nano Size Lets You Plug it and Forget it, Ideal for Raspberry Pi / Pi2, Supports Windows, Mac OS, Linux (Black/Gold) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_gdC7wbG7BT0JA
I tested 3 different wireless adapters in my 918+:
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Here's the output of "lsusb":
|__usb1 1d6b:0002:0404 09 2.00 480MBit/s 0mA 1IF (Linux 4.4.59+ xhci-hcd xHCI Host Controller 0000:00:15.0) hub
|__1-1 051d:0003:0106 00 2.00 12MBit/s 2mA 1IF (American Power Conversion Smart-UPS 750 FW:UPS 08.3 / ID=18 AS1237224726 )
|__1-3 7392:7811:0200 00 2.00 480MBit/s 500mA 1IF (Realtek 802.11n WLAN Adapter 00e04c000001)
|__1-4 f400:f400:0100 00 2.00 480MBit/s 200mA 1IF (Synology DiskStation 7F008A5818DA5A76)
|__usb2 1d6b:0003:0404 09 3.00 5000MBit/s 0mA 1IF (Linux 4.4.59+ xhci-hcd xHCI Host Controller 0000:00:15.0) hub
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Under the hood it shows up as wlan0 but it doesn't show up in "Network Interfaces" of Control Panel. This may limit some of the DSM-specific overlay UI settings but as far as I see it's another network interfaces at the OS level.
Id hate to see you spend money on something that can be fixed/replaced minimally. Chances are the issues might be related where your overheating laptop is causing the internal nic to fry. I would try and get a can of air and spray the vents to see if you have any dust build up, causing the fans to work double time.
Instead of trying to replace the internal wifi, simply buy a usb
Edimax EW-7811Un 150Mbps 11n Wi-Fi USB Adapter, Nano Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_KpTOub0T0EY4M
EDIT: I just followed your links, sounds like you are already looking at USB adapters and not internal cards. Sorry.
I like these: http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419545144&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+wifi
Better make sure that model doesn't use a hardware whitelist for the WiFi/BT card. I'm pretty sure it does.
If so, you will need to either modify the BIOS (risky) or modify the firmware on your new wireless card (also risky).
I'd recommend a tiny USB wireless adapter.
I don't know what Pi kit you're getting, but make sure that the charger is giving it the proper juice. You may also want a powered USB hub for peripherals such as a mouse, keyboard, etc. A small WiFi adapter and camera module can also come in handy.
I really like my Leatherman Squirt. It fits on the keychain that I carry every day. I also want to add this small flashlight. If you're into DIY, you might find Instamorph useful.
There's a variety of ways to do this this:
Or ...
Get a Raspberry Pi 0W with on-board wifi and bluetooth.
I would think it is pretty easy.
I have a link for getting hostapd going on a specific wifi dongle on the cheap.
Amazon
HostADP instructions
I currently have this set up as a tor onion router for me. So I can verify that it is acting as a hotspot. I would guess it would be as easy as just having one with stored credentials and one with broadcast.
Should work. Raspbian btw.
As the other poster said, the Edimax USB wifi is probably your best bet. I've got one on a raspberry pi and it works well enough.
$8.99 USD on amazon.com
http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY
$14.49 CA on amazon.ca
http://www.amazon.ca/Edimax-Wireless-Adapter-Wizard-EW-7811Un/dp/B003MTTJOY
EDIT: fixed links
I've got one of these Edimax mini USB Wifi's and it works real good. It is showing < $10 and if you look at the "Other Sellers on Amazon" to the right, you will see several listed for < $10 with free shipping. This little guy works great. His antenna is obviously small, so the range isn't ideal for all situations. I personally was quite surprised at the range and never noticed the lack of a full antenna in my use of it. Your perspective may vary.
This other product has an actual antenna and is ~$5 with free shipping all day long. I can't attest to its quality though.
Either one, on one of the many cheap similar "mini USB wifi" adapters, should get you by for awhile, if nothing else.
http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY - that solves your wifi issue.
I want you to play league but unless you can bribe your IT department, you're out of luck haha.
USB wifi adapters can be notoriously shitty. I'd get something like this so that if it ends up being crap at least you're only out ~$10.
If you just want to use client mode, I had luck with this and holy cow that's on sale!
lol wasn't expecting that.
hostapd didn't like it, but I could join at Starbucks.
Got everything!
The Raspberry Pi:
$35
The monitor:
$16
The keyboard + trackpad:
$20
Power supply:
$10
USB hub:
$18
Wi-Fi Dongle:
$10
Total cost: $109, not including taxes/shipping. Not bad for essentially a mini laptop. Get a nice big USB stick for a "hard disk", make a big enough swap partition, and it'll run fairly well, too. Or I could get an actual hard disk, but... This 128GB SSD would almost double the price of the whole thing.
If you buy a manufacturer refurbished laptop from Lenovo, you're on the safe side. They provide a one year warranty on all their refurbished products.
For example you can get this Lenovo IdeaPad U310:
for about $380. It comes with a warranty till September 2014. The only issue with this particular model is that the WiFi connection can be sometimes bad, so I would carry around a WiFi adapter for these cases.
If you have 5GHZ WiFi I would suggest this: https://www.amazon.com/AC450-Wireless-Nano-USB-Adapter/dp/B0159ED6L6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520213744&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Archer+t1u
If you don't have 5GHZ WiFi, then I would suggest this: https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520213902&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=USB+wifi+adapter
You can plug these in and you may have to install drivers but you can then forget about them and use WiFi
Yes. I have one of these. Edimax EW-7811UN
I set it up using the script linked in this thread
And here is the output from wavemon
Laptop......... You will have to roll with the punches man, unless you can update the router. Try a firmware (bios) upgrade... I was having issues getting ipads to reflect oover on desktops via wifi into cable and back into the desktops, updated the firmware and BAM! usb dongle
Sure. Mostly info from here.
I purchased a USB WiFi adapter and USB gigabit ethernet adapter. Both seem to work without issue. Honestly, everything seems to work without issue but do not want to be the first ;).
Sounds like your Wi-Fi device is possible faulty, since you are using a five year old device a Wi-Fi dongle like this, or this, is recommended.
you could get something like this.
maybe use some LEDs to indicate movement detection or lights on/off in a room. Maybe store a record to a text file of the times whatever you are tracking was detected.
Maybe get a wifi dongle like this. and have it so you can ssh into the r_pi and monitor the log files? If you are feeling really productive, maybe have the r_pi act as a web server and update a webpage with the data/most recent images so it would basically be a security camera.
Those kind of ideas are what I immediately think of with raspberry pi... but you may want to start a lot smaller. like just detecting movement and lighting an LED since you are just learning C++ now.
This one works well in Raspbian, both are Debian-based so it would most likely work.
Is built-in wifi compatibility a must? If not, I'd go for the Biostar X370GTN instead, because it has an m.2 slot on the back, and then you could swap out that sata ssd for an m.2 one for the same price.
If you still need wifi, you could get an edimax wifi dongle like this one. I have one of these that I've treated none too well and it still works just fine.
Edit: also, reddit ate your formatting.
This is the exact one I use. I believe it's a realtek chipset which is super common (especially with rPi unofficially adopting that as a WiFi module of choice).
I found this on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ that a lot of people say works with the raspberry pi, so this should probably work with FreeBSD right?
This one's virtually plug-and-play under Raspbian.
how do you know that your phone can connect to the router. Are you browsing website without using cellular data? because if that is the case then your PC's network controller is toast and you need a new network card. If you're on a laptop then you could try using a usb wireless adapter.
I used this one and it worked like a charm. Small and out of the way too, so I could plug in a USB mic too without issue.
Edimax EW-7811Un
I'll second this recommendation /u/EOMFD, buying a wifi adapter makes managing the Pi SOOOOO much easier. I bought this tiny one for $8 and it worked right from the first plug in.
If you have a Windows machine on the same network as the Pi, you can type
\RetroPie
in the File Explorer directory bar and get instant access to the roms, bios and config files on the Pi from the Win machine. You can just drag n drop roms in there. It's so useful.
Another approach for sake of documenting 2018 tips.
I use fedora on a SP3 with no windows. Wifi was spotty and despite all fixes still varied from kernel to kernel. I bought a wifi dongle for 8 bucks. the Edimax nano and since wifi is solid and was plug-and-play. current state post on this subreddit fixes any hibernation workaround stuff.
Everything works as it should with no windows installed. Auto rotate, touch, keyboard snap on and off, and dock all working as expected. Only issue is a small nano dongle in the usb slot. (I use the SP4 type cover and a Bluetooth mouse anyways)
Link to amazon for dongle. currently 7.89 USD
Not sure, but this is the one I use on my Mac and it works. It comes with a disc but you can install the driver online as well. If you don't find a solution, this is only $8.
These are the ones I keep in my PC store, never had issues with them unless you're talking extreme distance. Jic best buy wants $50 for one lol
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003MTTJOY/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494884303&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=wireless+adapter
Yup. That problem existed for me when my SP3 was using Windows and continues to this day with all and every linux distro. I believe it is a hardware/firmware problem. I think there is a firmware update you could try -- no idea if it works. I just finally bought a little wifi dongle for $10 and have enjoyed trouble free wifi since. :)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hmm, you said this was your main computer, do you have another computer that can connect to the internet? Reason I ask is that I've been able to turn my laptop into a temporary wifi bridge when I've needed to connect something, like an Xbox 360. You can download pfSense and install it into a virtual machine and use the physical interfaces as the virtual routers interfaces.
So, if you have a laptop with an ethernet port and wifi, you could set both of the pfsense VM interfaces to bridged and then connect your main computer directly to the laptop via ethernet, and the main computer will essentially use the virtual pfsense router for internet access. There might be an easier way to do it, but that's what I've tried successfully in the past.
I'm just wondering, if it's connected, if it will just find and download the drivers automatically. Or if they'll show up in Settings -> Software & Updates -> Additional Drivers.
Alternately, if you'd like to change wireless adapters, I own this one and I know it will auto-configure to a working state. It's reception isn't fantastic, but if you're close enough it should work alright.
I'll keep looking more into it.
You'll need to get either a HDMI (newer computer monitors, HDTVs) or DVI to HDMI (older computer monitors) to connect it to a display.
For around $10, you can get an USB WiFi adapter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/
Get a USB one
Yeah some older USB wifi adapters use too much power. If you try to plug them in, the pi will shutoff. For just a few bucks you can get:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/
Googling the N300 shows the disconnection is a common issue with that device.
I always use these, http://amzn.com/B003MTTJOY , they are cheap and I've never had any issues with them.
Yes. I prefer the USB option myself, because you can place the antenna independently of the computer, rather than being stuck with whatever signal you happen to get between your tower, desk, and wall.
I've got a few of these that I use for penetration testing of wireless networks. They're pretty beastly - you might want an AC variant, if your router supports 802.11AC
The biggest hurdle is that you will need a wireless card capable of injecting packets.
This is one of the more popular cards: http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-Wireless-Long-Range-Screw-On/dp/B003YIFHJY/
The one built into your computer might be capable, so check that first.
Tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RydsjNhUjdg
I like the Alfa AWUS036NH. It uses the RT2800U chipset and works nicely under both FreeBSD and Linux.
http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-802-11g-Wireless-Long-Range/dp/B003YIFHJY/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_2_2
Glad i could help btw for wifi hacking you'll need a wireless adapter that can inject packets... I recommend getting this http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-802-11g-Wireless-Long-Range/dp/B003YIFHJY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1413582408&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=alfa or this if you want a longer range http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS051NH-Wireless-magnetic-Flex/dp/B003YHCRQQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1413582481&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=alfa
Correct, a more sensitive receiver will pick up those fainter signals from further away. The issue is that the higher dBi gain an antenna is rated for, the higher directionality it is. The problem with getting too directional is that the cone of signal it is looking at could move around too much while on a boat. Tide, boat wake, people shifting on boat, etc, could all move the cone away from the area the access point is. You could try the parabolic reflector antennas, but you would select a dBi gain based on what the current antenna is. For example, if the antenna in your device is 2dBi (pretty common), look for a 9dBi directional antenna.
Alfa networks make powerful usb wifi adapters that include decent omnidirecitonal antennas, and this one here even has a good directional antenna included as well.
These are pretty crazy. Assuming that the wifi is sent by a decently powerful access point, and there is a pretty clear line of sight you can hit wifi at some crazy ranges. Now, the connection is going to be spotty and the the speed will be abysmal. Leeching wifi at 2km with a giant yagi would be a pretty sad life. I never said that it was a good idea, just that it can be done. Oh I forgot to mention, unless you have a license, it would be very illegal to use a yagi on a 2w transmitter since it would give unholy EIRP.
Think about it, our control systems are 2.4ghz and with directional antennas people can get like 5km. The taranis only has a transmit power of like 100mW which is comparable to many access points. All the things that our fancy dancy RC protocols do, was first implemented in wifi. We are basically flying drones with wifi.
I travel a bit for work, seldom overnighters that I'm staying away from home. For other reasons, I picked up a USB long-range network adapter and its done wonders for firming up weak signals and getting signals I otherwise wouldn't have gotten.
http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-Wireless-Long-Range-Screw-On/dp/B003YIFHJY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1382712089&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=alfa
Get a directional wifi atenna like one of these and you will be able to connect to hotspots over a mile away:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003YIFHJY/
This should work just fine for you but you could also get This as an alternative.
Yes, while most every motherboad has wired networking, the majority of motherboards don't have built in wifi.
You can either get a USB wireless network adapter or a PCI/PCIe one. If you stick with the GA-78LMT-USB3 you'll probably want an external one as the PCIe 1x slot will be covered by the video card and the conventional PCI slot will be right up on it.
There are a wide range of USB WiFi adapters from generic ones under $10 to some very expensive ones. Performance doesn't necessarily correlate with price. If you walk into a store like WalMart you can expect to pay $20 for their least expensive ones.
Most USB WiFi adapters are are in the form of small USB thumb drives. Sometimes it's worth it to buy a larger adapter with a more substantial antenna though.
As a side note, the GA-78LMT-USB3 is a good motherboard but if you planned on overclocking your 8 core, you may want to consider some of the higher end boards. It also lacks SATA III so you won't get the top performance out of an SSD if you add one. It's still a solid board and I've used it in a number of builds.
How fast is your internet? If no more than 150Mb/s, i'll suggest the TL-WN722N. Which i use on my gaming desktop PC. I've never had any problems connecting to my wifi. Also, It's cheaper than the one you have listed, only 13.35USD or 10.52 in your foreign money. But fear not, if your internet speed is indeed faster than 150Mb/s, you could always go with it's bigger brother the TL-WN822N. Which can push out 300Mb/s and costs 18.80USD or 14.66€
This Might work well instead of running wires.
I personally have this that I use and it works great through 4 walls (router is in a closet) and across a rather large sized house.
pretty good but get a different network adapter and id personally recommended these changes
Network adapter: http://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-TL-WN822N-300MBPS-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419014423&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=wifi+adapter
PSU :http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-Builder-Series-Modular-Certified/dp/B00ALYOTTI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419014385&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=PSU
if you play rome 2 or other strategy sims that proc isnt the greatest, the gpu will outshine the cpu in certain games giving huge fps spikes from like 30 one moment to 60 the next
of course this is only select few games anything else is flawless bf4,skyrim etc
I recently (Like a week ago) purchased this: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN822N-Wireless-External-Antennas/dp/B00416Q5KI
Has worked fantastically so far getting a full 5 bars instead of the sketchy 2-3 I was getting with my old one.
Here is an example https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY
I have actually been tempted on buying a pi zero to cut the size down , if I could get one I would end up 3d printing an enclosure that everything would fit into for a belt pack.
also, the wifi dongle is pretty cheap on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/
I found an unboxing video which clearly shows an m.2 expansion slot with the other IO, but I can't find a good picture of the IO shield. I found an Intel card, but it seems to come with neither antennas nor pigtails. How much does the motherboard supply? Surely the IO shield must have something the antennas attach to, right?
I don't sit particularly far from the router and was considering saving some money and getting the crappiest USB wifi adapter money can buy instead. It'll have the advantage of sitting on the front of the case.
The best answer I can find is to use a USB wifi adapter, this one seems to work for people but I've not tried it myself.
This Edimax dongle works plug and play for me on Chromium OS.
The small size of the antenna doesn’t yield the best range.
If you have the option, always use an ethernet connection. It's far superior to wifi in connectivity and speed. Otherwise, you can use this usb adapter for super cheap or this TP Link PCI card You can select the cheaper option of the TP-Link card for $18 (N300 2T2R)
If you don't mind me asking, what are the specs (resolution, refresh rate) or brand/model# of your monitor? I can check if the monitor would be a very noticeable upgrade.
Yeah I probably just buy a new. I bought one from Amazon that was $7 and it's worked for more than two years, there no setup process for the exception typing in the ssid and the password for your wifi. Edimax EW-7811Un 150Mbps 11n Wi-Fi USB Adapter, Nano Size Lets You Plug it and Forget it, Ideal for Raspberry Pi / Pi2, Supports Windows, Mac OS, Linux (Black/Gold) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_62Mtzb9TV3MCQ
I use this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-Adapter-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414546192&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=mini+wifi+usb+adapter
It's low profile and doesn't add nearly as much bulk as a shield would.
I got one of these:http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-Adapter-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY
I as curious if i could get a better signal strength with something a little bit more expensive or larger?
potem bi mogoce deloval wifi usb dongle ala tole ali celo tole
kater bi znal boxu po moznosti omogociti wifi priklop.
Get this guy:
http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/
It's cheap, it'll work, and you can get it in a day if you're really impatient. You don't need to install anything, just plug it in and you're ready to go.
This could be any number of things specific to the version of Linux and/or the hardware. A quick thing to try would be a USB WiFi adaptor. Such as the one below.
Edimax EW-7811Un N150 Wireless USB Adapter Nano https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0W1CzbNX5N30Z
Otherwise, I'd recommend posting on forums specific to the version of Linux and the laptop manufacturer (or trying to find someone that has had the same issue with the same hardware and software). The more details you can give the better.
To give you an example of how specific this could be, I recently installed a flavour of Ubuntu on a friend's old netbook. It would install fine but then freeze after the first reboot. Turns out the specific model of netbook didn't have an illuminated keyboard but for some reason reported that it did. Luckily someone had had the same issue and figured out that editing a few lines of the kernel fixed the problem. I would never in a million years have been able to figure that out!
It might be a good idea to get him a wifi dongle too, found this cheap one on Amazon for you. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CdpAzbX0H8Q11
You are good at this troubleshooting, gold star to you sir!
You're getting there, but basically you just need to be more careful in future not to remove the drivers, but uninstall the device itself (because how are you going to get the drivers again without a connection)
Right, you need to get the drivers somehow. Do any of your friends have a WiFi USB dongle you could borrow? It's basically a wireless network card on the end of a USB. You can pick one up for pretty cheap on Amazon, and I would recommend this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491853009&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=edimax
Invest in one of these, they are lifesavers for situations exactly like these. I have about 5 lol.
If you can find a friend who has one, or get one yourself, install the driver that comes with it on CD and plug it in. You should get a WiFi connection right away under something like 'Wifi 2' in your network settings.
Go back into Device Manager and under the Unknown Devices section you should find some devices there, that are not recognised because of the lack of drivers.
Right click on each of them and click Update Driver Software, and then click Search automatically on the popped up window.
Let it do its thing, and it may take a few minutes. Windows 10 happens to be fantastic at searching for drivers, and it should find the drivers you need no bother at all!
Best of luck :)
edit usb based soution
Does raspberry pi have wifi support?
This is the wifi adapter i use.. works great
You can use a PCIe adapter like this or this
or you can use a USB wireless adapter like this or this
Although it may be a software related issue which you can solve by updating your wireless adapter drivers, it may also be a mechanical failure of your network card.
Since you've said you are not a computer person, my advice is this.
Please note that this is a very small adapter so it is advised to have a strong wireless signal in your house to maintain the best connection.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Edimax-EW-7811UN-150Mbps-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419335505&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=edimax
AC, 600MBPs. Cheap
Great dongle.
I'm 99% sure it is this one
You can buy an external wireless card. This is pretty common when your builtin wireless card stops functioning. If your current wireless card is the issue then a new one will resolve this issue. Here are some examples from amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493679602&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=usb+wireless
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN725N/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493679602&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=usb+wireless
I have used several of these when I in a jam and needed wifi...work very well. http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421356057&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=usb+wifi+adapter&amp;pebp=1421355997546&amp;peasin=B003MTTJOY
I second this, put a webserver on the RPi and just access it on your local network. Xbee is completely superfluous. Also there is no real need for the RPi camera as the RPi has USB ports and you can just plug in most USB WebCams.
The model B+ has 4 USB ports so you could even have a few cameras if you wanted.
If you don't have wired ethernet in the nursery, you can use a USB wifi dongle.
i have this wifi adapter Edimax
http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/
I have a 80211b/g/n network running WPA-PSK and I wanted a static IP address
Here is my /etc/network/interfaces file
auto lo
iface lo inet loopback
iface eth0 inet dhcp
auto wlan0
allow-hotplug wlan0
wpa-roam /etc/wpa_supplicant/wpa_supplicant.conf
after making the changes, either reboot or do sudo ifdown wlan0 then sudo ifup wlan0 to take the interface down and back up.
Then I did the following which creates a conf file to disable sleep
sudo nano /etc/modprobe.d/8192.cu.conf
and add the following text
disable power management
another reboot and i've had a soild connection ever since.
If the internal network card is causing unfixable problems, just purchase a micro wifi usb dongle like this. Super easy fix. Also, has your wireless network's encryption changed at all? Many older devices have a hard time working smoothly on WPA2.
You're overthinking this. Just get this.
Edimax EW-7811Un 150Mbps 11n Wi-Fi USB Adapter, Nano Size Lets You Plug it and Forget it, Ideal for Raspberry Pi / Pi2, Supports Windows, Mac OS, Linux (Black/Gold)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BufoybAGQ3DRZ
I don't think that router supports bridging wifi to ethernet. You could buy a cheap USB wifi adapter on Amazon instead for about $9:
https://smile.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/
https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480432327&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=wifi+dongle
$9 but will be the last time you have that issue
Quickest solution would to buy something like this off amazon or find one at a local electronics store.
https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478461591&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=wifi+adapter
Congratulations on the new job! The story I am about to tell you is in regards to a new job as well. As well as the Spartan race, my older brother and his wife compete in Camp Gladiator down in Austin every year. From what I can tell, it seems like a satisfying accomplishment.
For the past year, my job has had a really awful boss. After my old one retired, this lady came in from another store, and has since been the bane of my working day. I could write an entire rant about that, but the biggest issues where our gears would grind together was how we viewed basic semi-formal workplace communication. I have been openly scolded on the sales floor (working retail here) many times before, one particular time that always come to mind was for helping a customer when I was paged into her office to help with her computer. She came storming out and started raising hell because she wanted to finish her order so she could leave early. The customer tried defending me, and she gave him the "this does not concern you" routine, so I stepped out of my professional bubble and snapped. I yelled back at her. It was like one of those cinema moments. She was speechless, the customer wore a big grin, and I certainly felt better for doing it. I wasn't worried at the time about getting fired, the whole ordeal was on camera, and I feel I could have contested it. Since then I had only been given shifts where I would close a ten hour shift Friday night and open one Saturday morning. Though noting is particularly wrong with this, I was the only one on the schedule who was getting the treatment, and when others tried to switch shifts with me, the request would get denied. This went on for five months. I was not having this, so I called corporate offices and explained what was happening. After some fiddling around, I was approved to transfer to a store that was not only closer to home, but was changing over to the machinery I am trained in.
This has been the best week ever! because as of this Wednesday, I will have completed my seventh day at the new place. I love my boss, my new director and I are pretty much the same person as far as interests go, and I feel I can do a lot at this new place to make it my own. The icing on the cake of it all, the last day I worked, I learned that my old boss is no longer employed at the store that I was at before, and I would like to think I had a part in that. As awful of a fate as it was for her, she can not be in authority and be demeaning her employees over needing computer help.
I would love this small, cheap wireless dongle for my latest project. I'm planning on making a portable computer out of a Raspberry_Pi (tiny, credit card sized computer) that can be worn like a forearm protector. The dongle is usually more expensive, but the item recently dropped down in price. Having a small wireless attachment for my device would save me the need of having to plug it in to an Ethernet port to access the internet, defeating the purpose of 'portability' I am going for.
I was going to do a similar project, but just ended up making it in an enclosure I 3D printed. Here is the way to go:
http://www.pimusicbox.com/
Allows you to access a sonos-like interface on your computer or phone. Isn't quite the same as what you were trying to do, but its 100 times more simple, especially if you don't have much experience doing this sort of stuff.
You will need a powered USB hub, USB sound card, and USB wifi. I suggest these two things for the soundcard and wifi...
http://www.amazon.com/External-Headphone-Microphone-Plug-N-Play-Compatible/dp/B00XUPX2H0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450757339&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card&amp;psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450757359&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=edimax+wifi
One final suggestion, look into changing the grill cloth on the front of it with some new stuff, guitar amp grill cloth works great and this is a great place to buy it.
http://www.mojotone.com/amp-parts?search=Grillcloth
normally I would agree with you, but since its the sale it looks like it would be worth it, so I figured I would ask. Here is the breakdown.
Kit - 69.99 on sale
Individual - 74.55 (didn't bother including the manual or hdmi)
So, objectively, it would be cheaper, unless i wanted to swap out specific parts (but I'm a noob, so I'm not sure what I need yet). So, instead of buying it individually, should I go for the normal wifi kit or the deluxe kit?
Did you get the USB2.0 version? I am seenig 2 version on Amazon
usb 2.0: http://www.amazon.ca/Edimax-EW-7811Un-802-11b-Wireless-languages/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1345570301&amp;sr=8-2
usb: http://www.amazon.ca/Axpertec-Inc-Wireless-Adapter-EW-7811Un/dp/B005CLMJLU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1345570301&amp;sr=8-1
both are dping 802.11n
!check
Yeah i have, i move the pc around a bit so the wireless is less hassle. While i have you here. Any idea why i get shitty download speeds but excellent ping with this adapter? I am one floor below the router. Games such as rocket league, bf4, overwatch i usually have 20-40 ping, while at the same location i have 8 download speed.
Edimax EW-7811Un 150Mbps 11n Wi-Fi USB Adapter, Nano Size Lets You Plug it and Forget it, Ideal for Raspberry Pi / Pi2, Supports Windows, Mac OS, Linux (Black/Gold) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FcTwybP93TH04
Ralink (now owned by Realtek) made several USB WiFi chipsets that had OS X driver support, including PPC 10.4. It uses its own settings app rather than the native AirPort settings so is a bit clunky, but does 802.11n and WPA/WPA2. The devices are super cheap too, $8 on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY
Edimax has 10.4 drivers for newer devices as well: even an 802.11ac dongle! See http://www.edimax.us/html/english/frames/b-download.htm
You're going to need either a WiFi PCIe card
, or a USB WiFi adapter if you're not looking for a permanent solution.
That said, I'd highly recommend working out a pathway for an Ethernet cable to your PC, and I'd that's not an option you could look into Powerline.
http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452895605&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=usb+wifi+adaptor
I've just taken the computer downstairs, speedtest results are as follows:
Next to router, wireless: http://www.speedtest.net/my-result/5011466851
Next to router, wired: http://www.speedtest.net/my-result/5011470224
Upstairs, directly above router, wireless: http://www.speedtest.net/my-result/5011497701
So I think the issue might be the little USB wifi thing. It's one of these http://www.amazon.co.uk/Edimax-EW-7811UN-150Mbps-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B003MTTJOY, would replacing that help?
Hey thanks for the reply,
I am using this adapter: http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY
Should work fine as it claims to be compatible.
I am having the same issue, but the USB wifi adapter im using is tails compatible (http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY)
Any solutions?
Nope. Only thing you're going to want to do is get a USB wifi adapter. My apologizies, I forgot to add that component in the build. However, you can easily find many on Amazon and the likes for around 20 or so.
Like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1454181899&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=usb+wifi+adapter
If all you're looking for is an internet connection but can't run a cable across the house a Powerline adapter works pretty well, as long as they're on the same circuit.
I have these: TP-Link AV200 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 200Mbps (TL-PA2010KIT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WHrGzbAM87XEE
Alternatively, a cheap USB adapter would be nice, I have used this one before: Edimax EW-7811Un 150Mbps 11n Wi-Fi USB Adapter, Nano Size Lets You Plug it and Forget it, Ideal for Raspberry Pi / Pi2, Supports Windows, Mac OS, Linux (Black/Gold) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OJrGzbXJTB3PB
Ps sorry about the links, I'm on mobile...
It’s an Edimax EW-7811Un USB adapter. Will it work with that?
www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Well, crud, I'm really sorry. Do you mind me asking what kind of wireless module 'lspci' reports? Mine is "Qualcomm Atheros AR242x / AR542x Wireless Network Adapter (PCI-Express) (rev 01)" and uses the "ath5k" kernel module.
This tiny USB wireless dongle works on most any mainline Linux kernel, and it's $8: https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504665911&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=raspberry+pi+wireless+usb .
I have two, one on my Raspberry Pi 2, and one on my Dell Venue Pro 11 tablet running OpenSuse Tumbleweed.
May not be the same issue, since I don't know what nic you are using. But, I have had several of the very small, usb wifi adapters (like this one) stop working during large transfers. Mine became hot to the touch and I think that is why they shut down. I think they just don't have adequate heat dissipation under a heavy load.
I ended up switching to a pci-e card and never had the issue again.
this or this?
Like that, but perhaps not that particular model. It seems people have reported it dropping connection randomly, so that's perhaps a little too similar to what you have going on right now.
Edit: Something like this.
This Edimax works every time.
I just bought this
https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sxts_k2p_hero1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_p=2668834182&amp;pd_rd_wg=wn2lo&amp;pf_rd_r=WHX3JPKP6VB5172WKKZP&amp;pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&amp;pf_rd_t=301&amp;pd_rd_i=B003MTTJOY&amp;pd_rd_w=ce7KK&amp;pf_rd_i=linux+wifi+adapter&amp;pd_rd_r=N2TJXHVY3342548S6101&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478913666&amp;sr=1
Do you think that'd be fine?
To chime in to a sort of old thread...
You could try one of these in place of the onboard wifi. I use one for my raspberry pi.
http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-Wireless-Adapter-Wizard/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1381162655&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=wifi+usb
best one i can recommend is from edimax http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-Wireless-Adapter-Wizard/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1383175093&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=raspberry+pi
If you just bought it, it should still be under warranty and you can call tech support to trouble shoot it. Like NycsOwn said you could buy a external wireless adapter and see if that works. If it does I would wonder if the internal wireless card is malfunctioning in some way. Perhaps even maybe the wire has popped off.
Buy one of these
Will packet injection not work with the regular guy (EW-7811Un)??
Network adapter's easy.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_us?ie=UTF8
Boom. $10 150mbps USB WiFi adapter :D.
15$cdn + 35$cdn = priceless quality of life improvement! Just saying.
You'll still have an additional 2,4GHz network. Maybe research if these nano USB adapters don't have lower performance than full-size ones, but they're less likely to break in bed.
Firstly, you may have heard of powerline before, this basically uses the powerline of your household to transfer data. You receive 2 adapters, one plugs near your router and the other near your PC and both just simply connect over Ethernet. Providing they're not plugged into sockets with power hungry appliances nearby they work like a charm.
Otherwise, I'd say that your unit could be broken. I'd suggest one of these:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-TL-WN822N-300MBPS-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425221627&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=wireless+adapter
or
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Edimax-EW-7811UN-150Mbps-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425221627&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=wireless+adapter
I recommend Edimax WiFi USB Adapter as the alternative to the built-in Wi-Fi card. I use it on raspberry pi, and it should work well on your Lenovo laptop.
Laptops are nice because everything is wrapped up into one thing, so you don't need to buy everything (monitor, mouse, keyboard, etc). Unfortunately they just don't offer the same performance and reliability as a desktop does.
Do you have a desk to use for this? I think I have a decent computer picked out, but if your budget needs to factor in a desk we're in trouble. The desktop is on Newegg, but the rest is Amazon so you will be able to use your card.
Realistically I would expect this desktop to last 2-3 years until you might want to change something. This is the nice thing about desktops, you can generally add/change parts as you go instead of buying an entirely new computer. I wouldn't say you're expecting too much, but realize this computer is on the lower end but capable. You should be able to do everything you've listed to some degree. Some things (like editing video) may go slow because it does have a budget processor.
Here's the links to the parts so far. We can tweak things as needed.
Computer Adapter Monitor Speakers = ~$435
A note on the speakers, you may be able to get even cheaper ones (if you even need them), though usually cheaper speakers have a "buzzing noise." However, Amazon has these and the reviews seem great.
Another note, you could save $10 on the adapter too, since it seems you won't be needing a great connection. That is up to you though. Here's a cheaper one.
I have the same laptop! I'm running Fedora on it ATM but most of this should apply to you
akmodsandbroadcom-wl. Package names might be a bit different in elementary.modprobein the terminal, and restartI'm pretty sure the antennae in a laptop goes around the screen. So in both cases you are going to need some kind or antennae. There are Wi-Fi USB dongles that you can look into though. Look at the one from Edimax. http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY
What about this?
http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1427334651&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=wireless+usb+adapter
Sorry, office terms, yes! oh okay well hmm, theres a very handy USB WiFi adapter that you can buy:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Edimax-EW-7811UN-Wireless-802-11b-150Mbps/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1347288525&amp;sr=8-1
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Wireless-Nano-Adaptor-Dongle-150Mbps/dp/B005AVKIC4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1347288525&amp;sr=8-3
Try those possibly?
I understand your reasoning
Amazon.com WiFi dongle
You'd need a simple usb bluetooth dongle like this
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B003MTTJOY/ref=psdcmw_430581031_t1_B00S9CQVXQ
Something like that? If you search for devices specifically claiming to work with Raspberry Pi, you can be fairly confident that they are supported by typical Linux distributions without having to install any drivers.
This is a great build almost the same as mine but I have a gtx1060 OC edition that was around $320
(Doesnt include optical drive because it's cheapest if you can borrow one like I did.)
wireless adapter if you don't plan on going wired
don't know what case he would want but usually any $20 one should do just have to have usb 3.0's
Using this for my Raspberry Pi, works like a charm, and is very compact:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Greetings!
I would try first by replacing your wireless dongle as that is the cheapest and easiest start at troubleshooting.
Give this an order and report back to let me know if it works for ya.
Spend $10 on a new wireless adapter
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/ref=oh_details_o04_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
DD-WRT is a good second choice.
so i found a wifi adapter that's works and is almost unnoticeable, my only concerns are battery life and if the touch or type covers work. The dongle is at
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I got this since my PC is on the other side of the house from my router, and works great. Doesn't support 5GHz wifi, but for $9 can you really complain?
WARNING: It comes with a mini CD for the drivers. I don't have a CD reader on my build. They allow you to download the drivers off their website, but there isn't an automatic install. You have to manually do it (I followed an in depth tutorial). So I'd recommend this if you want something cheap that you're willing to spend time setting up, or if you have a CD reader.
I had problems with the WiFi adapter provided with my starter kit, too. I was directed to this particular adapter, instead, and it appears that a great many people use it. Even with this adapter, however, I had to configure it to turn off power saving to make things work reliably (it'll still be able to reach out, it just turns the WiFi off when it's not using it, so the device doesn't appear to be online).
You're not getting an IP at all, though, so it seems like your existing interface just isn't working. You might try the linked WiFi adapter and see if it's a problem with the current adapter.
Just got my first raspberry pi today. [This] (http://www.maketecheasier.com/setup-wifi-on-raspberry-pi/) is the guide I used to set the wifi. Although I don't have the same wifi adapter you used. ([This ] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003MTTJOY?cache=dd082693f8c64f5b5fdba9112c653a71&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;qid=1408598715&amp;sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1)is the one I got). The guide I linked to above should work the same.
I use these on all my Pis. Works with Raspbian right off the bat.
&nbsp;
[Edimax EW-7811Un] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/)
I have this currently https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003MTTJOY/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493245234&amp;sr=1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65
And it does not like finding my phones hotspot for some reason...
If i buy this network adaptor will i be able to connect to wifi spots? I need a temporary fix.
This is the wrong subreddit - you would need to find a computer tech support subreddit for your question.
That said: you can add Bluetooth capability using a $10 adapter like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003MTTJOY/
They do! I got one on Amazon a while back for my desktop that was pretty cheap and has worked flawlessly so far: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
I think often times it is best to use a usb wifi dongle. Because tails os might not support your wifi card. I have heard this one works well:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
Yes, I have a project involving two wireless usb dongles and a RasPI that does exactly this.
It's easily done with hostapd and OpenVPN.
This adapter will work just fine with first gen RasPi units (even with the USB power problems) and are highly recommended:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Use this link to get instructions on how to configure hostapd for it
http://willhaley.com/blog/raspberry-pi-hotspot-ew7811un-rtl8188cus/
Done.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003MTTJOY?cache=875b0fd8498765d15c2240cd9b668430&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;qid=1414363805&amp;sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1
I am by no means an expert, but this should probably work. It is smaller and cheaper, but I'm not sure if it is better or not.
On speedtest I get about 15mbps down and 3 up. The brand of the modem is qwest but I do not know the model. And it's just the modem, no router.
What is QoS? And yes he is wireless also and he using this adapter
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Then, as a fall back, try picking up one of these babies, works like a charm for computers with a dated/no internet card.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003MTTJOY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1417016324&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX200_QL40
Edit: Sorry, I've never seen the issue before, best I can say is to either get the above thing if your wireless card is indeed dated. What is your internet speed? Is a firewall blocking Insurgency's wireless capabilities? Check all that.
My of course. But, it's a discontinue model now. It works 100% don't matter what Linux distro I use.
&#x200B;
U12-41943 Ultra Wireless N nano Receiver v2.
&#x200B;
Just look at the most popular ones being use for Raspberry Pi that are still exists.
&#x200B;
https://www.wirelesshack.org/top-10-wifi-dongles-for-the-raspberry-pi-2016.html
&#x200B;
I would recommend the first choice.
&#x200B;
Edimax EW-7811Un 150Mbps 11n Wi-Fi USB Adapter
No I did not. Ended up trying out 2 other different WiFi adapters:
EW-7811Un was one where some tweaking of code would be necessary, and the W311M had the same chipset as the F6D4050 and used the nl80211 driver. The W311M using the nl80211 driver ended up working immediately after it was plugged in and booted up.
It seems to be that the F9L1001 v1 is not equipped to handle being an ad hoc access point. If all you need to do is access the internet, then it'll work for that, but if you need it to behave like another device and transmit certain information accordingly, it's not going to do that.
I hope this helps. It was definitely a learning experience for me.
TL;DR: Nope. Ended up using Tenda W311M after some research and it worked.
[edit: added clarification in italics and TL;DR]
Ok, cause I just bought [this wifi adapter]
(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) not knowing what motherboard wifi was, good thing I didn't waste $8 xD
Hate to say this. But this a waste of time and effort. There are plenty of technical battles to fight when working on projects. But this is not one of them.
Just get this for $10 and call it a day.
Excellent, sounds like you're off to a great start. I'm using this dongle and haven't had too many problems (powered from 5v wall wart), but I haven't put it through the ringers or anything:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
AFAIK, Hotspot refers to WiFi, so you would need a WiFi adapter. I found an inexpensive one on Amazon. The faster the adapter the more expensive. You can also go Bluetooth. The ones I found that work with XP were https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0775YF36R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 and https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 edit>grammar
Also FYI, I'm using this one right now:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003MTTJOY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502090630&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=edimax+usb+wifi
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is the one I use, it should be compatible:https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I got it off amazon http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00
I recently bought this one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY
It worked out-of-the-box with Ubuntu 14.04, just plug-in and go.
I've had a few bad experiences with cheap USB wifi, some of them say they're linux compatible but they require you to download and compile drivers from the manufacturer. Best thing to do is check the amazon reviews and Q&A (even if you don't buy from amazon). If it's reported as working with Linux (or with the raspberry pi) then that's a good sign.
You can also just search on "<name of product> linux" and usually find someone talking about if it works.
> To be honest that isn't that far off for an adapter now.
Wha? What kind of adapter are you looking at that's $50? I literally just bought this N adapter for $10: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You know that amazon has a search feature for it's reviews? Well anway just searching for linux yielded this https://www.amazon.com/product-reviews/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_cr_dp_srch/168-1354699-2659130?filterByKeyword=linux&amp;search-alias=community-reviews edit here is a review distinctly mentioning tails https://www.amazon.com/product-reviews/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_cr_dp_srch?filterByKeyword=tails&amp;search-alias=community-reviews
i unplugged it, restarted it twice and it didn't have a BSOD. however, then i plugged the adapter back in to a different port, restarted it twice again and there was no BSOD either. if it helps, this is what i bought... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
after restarting a couple times, there is that 'available networks' icon on the taskbar, however my network (which shows up on laptop and is literally a foot away from the adapter) does not show up. i tried manually adding the network but it doesn't work either.
Another option is using this method with something like this. It's how I use my chromecast on my school's network. It's also a little cheaper than your option.
If you are on a mac there is a built in option to share internet right in the Sharing section of System Preferences.
I know, it sucks, but there is not much you can do about it. I suggest buying one of these guys and keeping it in your laptop bag when you need to connect to a 2.4ghz router: https://amzn.com/B003MTTJOY
I'm with what /u/Wokuworld said with regard to the TAP adapters. So. Many. Virtual. Adapters.
As /u/tapharoot the one DNS setting is incorrect however everything appears to be fine.
As you said the issue only occurs on wireless yet all other wireless devices are fine I'd suggest drivers but you've tried those too. Your easiest bet would be to buy something like a small edimax wifi adapter such as this one: https://amzn.com/B003MTTJOY
Some motherboards will have integrated WIFI, but it's probably not worth limiting your selection on that basis. You can either buy a tiny USB dongle like this one http://amzn.com/B003MTTJOY or a PCI card like these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;N=100010074%20600014300&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;name=32bit%20PCI
Either way you can expect to spend less than $20.
http://amzn.com/B003MTTJOY
Thats the one I use, fully working, driverless, the size of a wireless mouse reciever... only 2.4Ghz networks but that's fine.
I don't know if there's any list, but the ones claiming to be Raspberry Pi compatible, usually work on Tails.
I don't know what you can do if you can't send it to your location. Maybe you could send it to a friend's house or your office or buy a similar one locally :/
http://amzn.com/B003MTTJOY
Is this device compatible? I know there is a lot of documentation on it regarding Kali.
https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-802-11g-Wireless-Long-Range/dp/B003YIFHJY
https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-802-11g-Wireless-Long-Range/dp/B003YIFHJY
Fuck da police
Radio is weird.
(tldr at end)
The overall power matters, but the concentration of that power matters. For example, if you're just talking normally, your voice can be heard decently near to you. But if you talk through a cone, your voice can be heard better, farther, but only in a limited area.
Directional antennas are the same way. They don't change the overall power being sent, but they change the concentration of it, making where they point effectively more powerful see: EIRP
So, yes, you may have a real problem wherein a directional antenna could get data to your laptop, but your laptop may not be able to get that data back to your antenna. One can focus its power, your laptop likely can't (Some newer standards and chipsets support beamforming, which is similar, but i'm discounting that).
Your distance is far, but it's possible. There are special setups for Wireless Internet Service Providers (WISP) that take distance into account, but easiest thing for you is probably to :
tldr: use a directional antenna like what you linked for your wireless access point, and something like this on your laptop http://smile.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-802-11g-Wireless-Long-Range/dp/B003YIFHJY?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage . Point them at each other, and you might have a strong enough signal, though the distance is still at the edge of what will work without more special solutions.
I would recommend the Alfa AWUS036NH. Does b/g/n and does it well. packet injection and all. I'm pretty sure it's industry recommended by now.
If you have a couple devices you want to hook up, I'd recommend the Nanostation M2 Loco and a cheap wireless router:
http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-LOCOM2-US-NanoStation-loco-M2/dp/B004EGI3CI
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WR720N-Wireless-150Mbps-Internal/dp/B008IFXQIW
The nanostation gets set to Wireless Station/SOHO Router mode so your traffic appears to come from a single device, then the router is plugged into the nanostation to provide wireless and a pair of ethernet ports to plug your devices into.
If you just need the laptop to work, I'd suggest this alfa USB device:
http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-802-11g-Wireless-Long-Range/dp/B003YIFHJY
I'd grab the active USB extension if it needs to be placed away from your laptop somewhere. This would be the easiest to get setup by far.
Of course amazon has it: https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Wireless-External/dp/B00V5KSIZS/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487490494&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=AWUS052NH
Although i would personally recommend the AWUS036NH: https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-802-11g-Wireless-Long-Range/dp/B003YIFHJY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487490317&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=Alfa+AWUS036NH
Do you have line of site? You could do directed wifi with a high gain antenna. That paired with some Alfa wifi adapters should get you 500m with line of sight.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YIFHJY/ref=psdc_13983791_t2_B0035BGNWU
Ive had a https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-802-11g-Wireless-Long-Range/dp/B003YIFHJY/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541182556&amp;sr=1-9&amp;keywords=alfa+wifi+usb similar one a few years ago and it works amazing. Other similar ones can be had for 15-20$ and should be fine.
I read this entire post and I've found a few suggestions that might work.
Alfa 2000mw High gain WiFi Adapter - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YIFHJY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_xfENub1YJ5Q1V
Comes with everything shown and was only used a couple times. $25
Just ordered this, thanks again for imparting your knowledge on me
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YIFHJY/
I tend to trust Alfa for external WiFi cards.
Speed: http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Wireless-External/dp/B00MX57AO4
Range: http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-Wireless-Long-Range-Screw-On/dp/B003YIFHJY
Cheap: http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUSO36NH-Wireless-Long-Rang-Network/dp/B0035APGP6
lol I was joking, but come to think of it, if it's PCI-e module and not USB module, I might buy it. Do you know what model it is? Currently, I have one of these - https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-802-11g-Wireless-Long-Range/dp/B003YIFHJY
Couple of options:
I'm pretty new to using AirCrack myself, but I've bought this a few weeks ago and it works on Kali.
This is what I have.
Hi, the company i work for used to provide the authentication server for ARMP and Warrior networks, so hi from the past, but its been migrated to another service due to budgetary constraints I would suggest this:
A: Compalin compalin complain until they boost the signal or move an AP closer to your barracks
B: Get a high power transmitter USB wifi adapter I use this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003YIFHJY/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Its a high power USB dongle (No compant relationship me, just what I use when traveling) comes with a directional and a 2000MX transmit power. I can connect to AP's about 1/2 mile away with 3 bars if pointed correctly. Remember NEVER boot this up without an antenna, it will go into a feedback loop and destroy the transmitter in the USB card. Good Luck.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $179.99
Motherboard | ASRock Z97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $69.99
Memory | Team Vulcan 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $68.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $50.40 @ Amazon
Video Card | Asus GeForce GTX 770 2GB DirectCU II Video Card | $319.99 @ Amazon
Case | Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case | $59.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $64.99 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) | $89.99 @ NCIX US
Keyboard | Logitech G105 Wired Gaming Keyboard | $38.95 @ Amazon
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $943.28
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-07-25 21:05 EDT-0400 |
The price of the CPU and motherboard is from a combo discount you get when you buy them together in-store at microcenter. Prices may change slightly at the start of next month but you can just check the microcenter website for that.
I don't have a wifi adapter included in the build, but this tp-link is the one I have and I haven't had a problem in 6 months of use.
Edit: And actually, because you aren't overclocking, you could get this motherboard instead which is 49.99 with the combo discount.
If powerline wont work, get a usb (or PCI-e) one that has an antennae, like this one so that you get the most stable connection.
I can't speak for that one, but I use this one at home and have no issues at all.
Depending on your location, one of these could help a lot if you're streaming.
TP-LINK Wireless N300 High Gain USB Adapter, Support Windows/Linux/Mac OS, Plug and play (TL-WN822N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_D8tFxbM1JWSHG
Mini is just the size, no worries, it still is a normal GTX 1060 6GB in a smaller body. As far as the keyboard is concerned, this year I got a Rapoo V700 mech keyboard, no illumination, but still a great one for just 25€. But still for 25€ is OK, for 50(~60€) I'd expect to get a lot more, not just some chinese illumination. Anyway, that's my opinion. I've used this adapter https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-TL-WN822N-Wireless-Adapter-Version/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=sr_1_33?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501163112&amp;sr=1-33&amp;keywords=wifi+tplink for a long time and has always worked great, also CSGO ran flawlessly, but as always for very competitive gaming wired is the best option, even if you invest hundreds of $$$ just for wifi.
BTW here are all the keyboards featured in PCPP https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/products/keyboard/#k=1&amp;sort=price&amp;page=1
I'd advise choosing one with Cherry Keys, the other ones are just cheaper chinese clones.
EDIT: Just found this: http://www.corsair.com/en-gb/strafe-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-cherry-mx-brown-ch-9000500-na-refurbished It's a refurb, but comes directly from Corsair and has warranty.
I use a part that boosts the wi-fi signal to my computer. I may have mentioned it in a previous post, but this TP-Link can take me from barely one bar to full bars for signal strength. Extremely helpful. Pretty inexpensive for what it does for me. At one job I was getting nothing until I plugged it in.
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Wireless-Adapter-Support-TL-WN822N/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=sr_1_30?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459316296&amp;sr=1-30&amp;keywords=tp-link
It might help in your travels.
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN822N-Wireless-External-Antennas/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414888737&amp;sr=8-13&amp;keywords=wifi+usb
what do you think about this one?
I have a crash cart bag handy for random issues
Adapters:
And don't forget at least 1 tiny led flashlight :)
Purchase a high gain antenna?
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN722N-Wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B00416Q5KI?th=1
> I just hope our crappy wifi will at least let my farm
buy a wifi booster, that's what i did for my work's crappy wifi. i bought something like this https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN822N-Wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536365861&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=wifi+booster+tp+link off of amazon and it helped a lot to keep a steady connection and is pretty cheap at like 20 bucks.
The problem is that you got a nano adapters, they are the worst possible choice to make, something like this is a far better choice (I actually use this one myself, I get the SAME speeds as my directly connected pcs)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_mCrLub1ATZCKM
I currently use this and this as a wireless router. I also have a 100Mbp/s downstream connection, so I never really have a problem gaming on wireless, or streaming or torrenting from a computer using wifi. I rent so there's no way I can try to run wire throughout the house, and my houses electrical circuits are messed up as is, so I don't think trying a powerline connection would be the best.
I have the regular AC1750 version, not the Nighthawk, so I can give you opinion on that one. Not sure they're that different tbh.
I've had this router for half a year now and it's honestly amazing. My house only has 1 Ethernet port, so plugging in was basically impossible unless I ran crazy wires all over the house. So I opted to stay WiFi. Mid this year I switched to Xfinity Blast which boasts a 150 Mbps down speed, and 10 Mbps upload speed. My old router was the NETGEAR N600, and the maximum speed it would allow on it was 60 Mpbs on Xfinity Blast. I contacted Xfinity to figure out if there's anything I can do and they basically told me to get my house rewired.
I spoke to a friend who pointed me to this router, along with this Network Card to get my maximum speed potential out of WiFi. With these duo set up, I've constantly managed to speedtest around 160 Mbps down, and around 12 Mbps upload. And this is all over WiFi! Here's the proof.
To me, this router was worth every penny (and I paid full price for this). I wanted to make sure I get all the speed that I paid for, and this router made it happen. I've rarely had to troubleshoot this thing.
This is the modem I am currently using for my set up. You'll have to look up which modem is right for your ISP, but I am linking this for reference if you are looking at Xfinity Blast.
oh i got the asus ac1900 pci e, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F42V83C?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Heard it was strong reliable and super good atm
If you can, go with cable but if you can't definitely get a good PCI-E Wireless card like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F42V83C/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=saimdealmainsite-20&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;creativeASIN=B00F42V83C&amp;linkId=8ba079eb78313e163ef5e0e2d8a78c4b
Wireless is no good for gaming cos there will be so many variables like, if someone walks between the modem and the pc there will be a spike in ping usually.
The cheapest and best option (which I use over my dedicated pcie card) is this panda wireless adapter. It does get hot, and would sometimes thermal throttle on my front usb ports if all them were in use. But gives me 5 bar connection from my room(weakest connection in my house)
Hello,
I kinda had a problem like this a while ago, and it took me quite some time to determine what was going on, which, as it turns out, wasn't related to Steam or CSGO. Despite what others have said, for me it was a hardware (or firmware) issue. Anyway, here's what I figured out...
I run a Wifi setup because where I'm located I am not physically close to my router for LAN. My problem was similar to yours in so much that attempting to download updates would either corrupt the game, or end up with saying the download was corrupt. In any case, it turned out to be my primary WLAN card. To fix the situation, I swapped over to my secondary WLAN card and, go figure, update downloads started working just fine again with no corruptions of any kind. Not entirely sure what the issue is, considering the primary card works just fine for every other application, but this is the root of the problem, so changing up your cards is your best bet. If you don't have more than one, or if you use LAN vs WLAN, here's what I'd suggest you do...
For WLAN setup:
For LAN setup (physical cable from router to PC):
If none of that works, the only other option I'd suggest to you that I didn't see listed here already is changing your download region in Steam.
The region change did not work for me, but did for many others, so that's the only reason why I mention it. In any case good luck!
The 722n v2 doesnt support monitor mode. Instead I would recommend a Panda PAU06, it is about the same price and supports kali.
Edit: https://www.amazon.com/Panda-Wireless-PAU06-300Mbps-Adapter/dp/B00JDVRCI0
Did you find a better alternative? http://www.amazon.com/Panda-Wireless-PAU06-300Mbps-Adapter/dp/B00JDVRCI0 Seems to be the most promising under the $20 range.
I can't compare it to one without an antenna, but I use the following adapter with my rpis and it works like a charm:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JDVRCI0/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457638641&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=pau06
The issue lies in your WiFi adapter on your laptop, usually the default ones are not so great. You will want to get a WiFI adapter that can handle your internet speeds, so if your down speed is 100 Mbps then you want a wifi adapter capable of that speed. One here for $20 that has High gain antenna and capable of up to 300 Mbps =)
yep, got me one of these. thanks for the heads up.
Are you referring to USB adapters? What is your price point?
The Panda PAU06 has good reviews on Amazon and is cheaper than most dual band adapters of comparable quality. I personally own the Linksys WUSB6300 and the TP-Link Archer T4U, both are good and the Archer works really easily with Linux as well, if that's your thing.
I just finished an Evil Twin AP project a few days ago using monitor mode and packet injection. This is what I used:
https://www.amazon.com/Panda-Wireless-PAU06-300Mbps-Adapter/dp/B00JDVRCI0/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=panda+pau06&amp;qid=1558221919&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
It's most likely the dongle. I'm not sure but it might be Broadcom and those don't play well with Linux. The Panda PAU06 is plug and play apparently. You could also try asking over at /r/linuxhardware for help choosing.
Edit: You could also try this: https://blog.danielscrivano.com/installing-rtl8812au-on-linux-for-wireless-dual-band-usb-adapters/
Do you think antennas like this will work? (My area has trees, and where go does have walls, like I mentioned before) Should be able to work with a RPI if I can get an adapter
https://www.amazon.com/Aigital-Amplifier-Wireless-Reception-Omni-Direction/dp/B075JBG2R7/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=10dbi+wifi+antenna&qid=1569791802&s=electronics&sr=1-4
Could get something like this, and take the antenna off it and use the usb attachment
https://www.amazon.com/Panda-Wireless-PAU06-300Mbps-Adapter/dp/B00JDVRCI0/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2/136-3974745-3511228?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00JDVRCI0&pd_rd_r=32c59f8d-5c97-11e9-a2d5-e3eae196d506&pd_rd_w=BNLGa&pd_rd_wg=oUlAT&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=SKAY7NF7QVF07CJ8SX0Q&psc=1&refRID=SKAY7NF7QVF07CJ8SX0Q
If you want a USB adapter that works, for the year or so my buddies and I have had it at least, this one works good for everything I've ever needed. I've used it in two rigs because I can't run a jack to my room and it's never let me down, not to expensive either.
I've always had a good experience with Panda..
Panda Wireless PAU09 N600 Dual Band (2.4GHz and 5GHz) Wireless N USB Adapter W/ Dual 5dBi Antennas - Windows XP/Vista/7/8/8.1/10, Mint, Ubuntu, openSUSE, Fedora, CentOS, Kali Linux and Raspbian https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LY35HGO/
Or (if you want it more portable but not as strong)...
Panda Wireless PAU06 300Mbps N USB Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JDVRCI0/
Would this work? Panda 300Mbps Wireless N USB Adapter - Windows XP/Vista/7/8/8.1/10, Mint, Ubuntu, Fedora, openSUSE, CentOS, Zorin, Kali Linux and Raspbian Wheezy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JDVRCI0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_FY.CwbJSFMDWB
Well you'd be best off with a good wireless card for your computer rather than one of those weird adapters. The less adapters/ devices in the mix the faster it will be. Like this one is a little nicer one but still inexpensive:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JDVRCI0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_mdKCwbYNYY3EV
Its probably the chip set, I bet it is an atheros, those tend to play nice, some do others don't, why? Well you are going to need someone more techy than me to find out. My best guess is from a prior experience when I had to put a card into monitor mode, it didn't happen so I suppose its drivers are crap for linux.
Anyway I would also think its probably better to put a few more dollars in to get the external antenna variant, [here.] (http://www.amazon.com/Panda-300Mbps-Wireless-USB-Adapter/dp/B00JDVRCI0/ref=pd_sim_147_1?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41aN7RPsG8L&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=0QPVQV93ZEDN2SRKPXD5)
Some devices of the same class work better than others. A N300 adapter should be able to max out at around 30MB per second, which is plenty and probably higher than your internet bandwidth. If you transfer large files on a local network an AC wifi adaptor might be better.
I don't know any good Linux compatible ones off hand, but this N300 one might have better range.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JDVRCI0?m=A1K5RDMQ6V4659
Anyways good luck.
I bought this one and have tried it out on various Ubuntu flavors on 18.04.3, 19.04, and 19.10 and it has worked flawlessly on all of them.
Edit: it also works very well at distance, at least when there isn’t any interference.
I had that one and returned it after hours of frustration trying to get it to work on Windows 10. Maybe someone got it to work but I'm not going out of my way for a new wifi adapter I paid for.
I currently have this one and it's working fine for me, it's a USB adapter though. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JDVRCI0/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_awdm_x_2z4gybQ51B79Y
USB wireless adapter:
http://www.amazon.com/Panda-300Mbps-Wireless-N-Adapter-button/dp/B00JDVRCI0/
I recently got this off amazon and it works perfectly.
I have a decent realtek card in the machine and spent days researching how to make it work but it just wouldn't. But this Panda product was just plug in and instantly, wifi.
My thermal signs are fine according to my BIOS page, the lag is mostly caused by frame rates i believe as it looks great in the start up screen but once i try to enter a game, it the whole application slows down a lot, frame rates jump from 60 to 200. For my internet, i use a panda wireless connector and my internet connection speed is not too shabby i think (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JDVRCI0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)
Panda wireless 300mbps stick has worked great for me. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JDVRCI0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
>with wi-fi from the factory, or one with no wifi + a wifi adaptor?
Depends how much money you stand to save by purchasing a board without WiFi. For 15USD I bought this USB WiFi dongle and it's served me well. Absolutely no issues at all, even in my current situation where I'm 2 floors away from the access point.
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JDVRCI0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It might have worked fine in 7 but not 10, simply due to driver incompatibility/instability with a new OS that it was not designed for.
Also, I've never had luck when using a USB adapter. If you have a PCI-e slot available, I personally use this one and it works fine with games: https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K/
I bought this for my build. A little more expensive than some of the other stuff out there, but it matched my theme well and is plenty powerful.
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K
By plug ethernet, are you referring to powerline adapters? Because for internet in a pc in general, that's what I would recommend if direct ethernet is not an option. It's much more consistent than any wifi card could be imo. I own this and it's pretty widely regarded as a good one. It's pricey but worth it and it's basically as portable as a wifi card because your pc is definitely going to be plugged into an outlet somewhere and that's all a powerline adapter needs, an outlet.
Otherwise, pcie adapters that are good... I'll just link one that I've heard about from others that liked it. I think this is popular or this upgraded version of it. Otherwise, there's a tplink that just has a ton of reviews on pcpartpicker, full 5 stars for 200+ ratings which is impressive.
I think the 780ti is much better than the 1050ti. It's just old so I'm assuming it just draws a lot more power than the 1050ti and has much older architecture. But if it saves you a ton of money and you're going to upgrade anyway, I don't see why not. It'll get the job done in the meantime.
My brother had a similar issue. He bought the cheap $20 TPLink wifi card for his newly built desktop. He kept getting microlag in all his games. He then switched to the ASUS PCE-AC56 wifi card and boom everything is fixed, no lag, no issues with internet. Good luck.
The wired port is crap too. 4 Mbps if I'm lucky, on gigabit Google Fiber. Would this one be good as a wireless card? https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K?ref_=nav_signin&amp;
You could pick up a PCIe network card like I'm using so you can get rid of that ethernet cable running across your floor. This is the one I'm using if you end up wanting a new one https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-PCE-AC56-Wireless-Express-Adapter/dp/B00JNA337K/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=asus+ac56&qid=1566662838&s=gateway&sr=8-2
Be sure to update your BIOS before you swap out the CPU, which can be found here: https://www.dell.com/support/home/us/en/04/product-support/product/vostro-410/drivers
PSU: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=evga+PSU&qid=1565767187&s=gateway&sr=8-4
RAM: Get two (total 8GB) https://www.amazon.com/PC2-6400-DESKTOP-Modules-240-pin-Tech/dp/B00C5378J6/ref=sxin_3_ac_d_pm?ac_md=2-0-VW5kZXIgJDI1-ac_d_pm&keywords=ddr2+ram+8gb&pd_rd_i=B00C5378J6&pd_rd_r=c0152c74-5d0e-41a6-b25e-9c85c9ff097d&pd_rd_w=2llFc&pd_rd_wg=1pcZu&pf_rd_p=443560ff-1213-4884-9e43-6946f940cec1&pf_rd_r=7KJSE3EX29M0YW9VJKFW&psc=1&qid=1565770206&s=gateway
CPU: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Q9400-Processor-U36011-Category/dp/B001DEWO9W/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=core+2+quad&qid=1565767573&s=gateway&sr=8-10
SSD: https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-480GB-Solid-SA400S37-480G/dp/B01N0TQPQB/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=512gb+ssd&qid=1565767984&s=gateway&sr=8-9
GPU: https://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-GeForce-Graphics-Windforce-Gv-N1650OC-4GD/dp/B07QHGKC2D/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=gtx+1650&qid=1565768280&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Wireless: https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-PCE-AC56-Wireless-Express-Adapter/dp/B00JNA337K/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=wireless+card+PCIE&qid=1565768847&s=gateway&sr=8-4
I think the cooler is proprietary. The original should be able to cool the CPU though. Im talking a guess that the case fan is 120mm and the CPU is 92mm. Might have to ask around about the heatsink.
Fan, case: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-F12-PWM-4-Pin-Premium/dp/B00650P2ZC/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=noctua+120mm&qid=1565769226&s=gateway&sr=8-5
Fan, CPU: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A9-PWM-Premium-Cooling/dp/B00RUZ059O/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=noctua+92mm&qid=1565769286&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Bam. Just got yourself a decent gaming rig.
Total cost: About $415
> Does he have to do the firmware update, or can I do it from down here in the basement?
Honestly it's about a thousand times more likely that your wireless connection is just dropping packets until it disconnects. The new router probably doesn't have the signal strength of the last one.
You can check the firmware yourself by entering the router's LAN address into your browser. The defaults are usually HTTPS://192.168.0.1, or HTTPS://192.168.1.1. If those don't work, google it by the router's name.
What you're most likely going to end up doing is accommodating for the mixup in signal quality by picking something like this up for a laptop
https://www.amazon.com/ANEWKODI-600Mbps-150Mbps-433Mbps-Wireless/dp/B01G8IPLD8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510694898&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=ASUS+network+card&amp;psc=1
Or if you have a desktop and you're in more of a luxurious situation you could go for something like this
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510694898&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=ASUS+network+card&amp;dpID=41HWRQcV0BL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Ok I think I'm going to decide between the one you listed and this one: http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 any suggestions or are they pretty much the same?
I bought this one and it's working great for me. ASUS is a good brand.
It was about £30 or so when I bought it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JNA337K/?tag=pcpapi-20
Hey thanks man! That's great, would this also be software-free? I couldn't find any info on that, but it seems to be the higher version of the ones you mentioned, so I'd guess it is.
You won't be able to play on max settings but it will work fine for playing them. I used to have an fx6300 and a Gtx 1070 that ran both but not amazing.
The wifi card I bought ages ago, was this guy:
ASUS PCE-AC56 PCI Wireless Express Adapter https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00JNA337K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_G7ZiDbX06H1MN
It works well, gigabit 802.11ac.
I've been using this for about a month now and it's pretty good so far with my MSI Mortar MATX motherboard. There are other cheaper alternatives but I went with this because it has good reviews and you can move the antennae.
You might want to get a different WIFI card because this doesn't have bluetooth capability, but you can just plug in a cheap bluetooth dongle at the back MOBO USB ports to use bluetooth devices.
pcie wifi adapters usually come with antenas. ceck the back of the pc to see if yours are attached. like this: https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K
Was your previous adapter also USB?
Since your phone is fine but your desktop obviously isn't, I'd try getting a PCI-e card if your motherboard has a slot available. Something like this, there are cheaper ones and more expensive ones as well. Those function better being directly connected to the motherboard and they have multiple external antennae.
I've had good luck and bad luck with USB WiFi adapters and it seemed to just come down to the individual USB stick.
Awesome, thanks. If you don't mind I have a question. A wired connection is not feasible at my place, would I need to buy a wifi card or adapter? Not sure how that would work.
My friend suggested getting this https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K
It's called a wireless network card, and most plug into PCI or PCI Express.
When I reluctantly (read: was forced) moved to wireless, I started with a TP-Link because it was much cheaper than ASUS, and I don't typically buy branding hype.
It was a mistake, gaming was impossible. I later moved to ASUS and it was much better, but it will never compare to wired gaming. The intermittent drops that you don't notice when surfing the web became all too apparent when gaming.
What not to buy.
What I bought and could live with.
edit: formatting
If you look at the mobo, there are 2 long and 1 short PCI Express slots. What I mean by a 1x card is a card that can go into that short slot. You can buy and plug something like this to add wi-fi to your device. It usually goes in the short-slot, but since it'll be occupied by the fan of your GPU, you can still toss it in the 3rd slot.
About the dongles, TP-Link is a good brand as far as I can tell. Didn't hear the other one at all, no specs on it or anything... any recommendations on my part would be wrong in essence, all I can say is if you have an internet faster than 500Mbit then USB 3.0 ones (probably they will also have proper wireless protocol).
Don't plug your GPU in the wrong slot by the way, I mean you won't damage your card, but in small mobos like this, only the first PCI Express slot (the one next to CPU) is actually 16x. The other is usually 4x or something like that, which may create a bottleneck. Though since they'll be doing the hard work, they would do it properly I assume. But if/when you get your PC, make sure the GPU is in the right slot, you know?
ADATA is not a brand I've experience with, but I remember reading bad shit about their SSDs back in the day. Though, even a year is a big time frame for technology, so I really don't know how they are now. I hate some brands with religious zeal, while love some others due to personal experience and stuff. Toshiba is alright as far as I know. Samsung is what I use if you are wondering.
And no problem man, really :)
With the small USB adapters you often have undesirable location issues with the antennas being right smack next to a huge metal box. that is about the worst place for wifi devices. Even PCIe devices with external antennas are somewhat susceptible to that.
The PCE-AC68/88 being a little different, since the radio is cabled to a remote antenna.
minimum should be 2x2 AC1200, single antenna devices tend to have pretty bad performance.
Asus makes a few great adapters.
PCE-AC56
PCE-AC68
PCE-AC88
Same with tp-link
Archer T6E
Archer T9E
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K
I have this if you want to go a little over budget?
Wifi sucks for gaming. It's inherently unreliable just due to the nature of it. There is no way we can guarentee that if you buy "X" product your Wifi will be stable, there is so much variance in wifi setups. If you can run an Ethernet cable to your PC do it.
If you need to use Wifi get a PCI-e adapter if you can. This would be a decent basic one, more expensive ones are usually better, I have this one in one of my computers and have been very pleased with it. If you computer doesn't have any PCI-e slots then you'd get a USB Wifi adapter as a last resort. I'd stick to well known Networking brands like TP-Link, Linksys, Netgear and Dlink.
The guy who recommended me this wireless thing told me that i should post on r/HomeNetworking to have a better one but didnt really have time to check. This is the one? Pretty sure its wireless but no harm asking. I can't really have a wired connection rn cause i'm renting a room in someone home.
And for the ssd, is it better for the first or second build
Where are you located? AC adapters are all over the place. I just picked this one up at a store last week and it works like a dream.
I actually bought this for a friend for her first build and despite having a cheap router, she gets 0 dropped connections, very low latency, and the bonus of the top of her case looking like it has rabbit ears.
Honestly though, it's a bit fancier than most people need, but at 150 feet, its extra power may be handy.
I'm going to try ALVR through a hotspot. First I need an 802.11ac card. Which one would be better:
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-PCE-AC56-Wireless-Express-Adapter/dp/B00JNA337K
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-T6E-Wireless-Technology/dp/B016K0896K
One is $20 more expensive, so I'm wondering if it's worth it. The cheaper one actually also supports Bluetooth, which I don't currently have on my PC, so if the ALVR performance is equivalent, it would be a better choice.
Ok great, thank you. The PCE-AC88 and AC68 are a little out of my budget, but the downgraded model, PCE-AC56, is within my budget. How does that one look?
Also, the Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-i is around the same price of the AC56, and it includes bluetooth and is apparently Intel based wifi. But it looks like people prefer the asus wifi adapters. Do you know why that is?
ASUS Wi-Fi PCI Express Adapter (PCE-AC56) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JNA337K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jA0SzbTK2F28Q
Get 16GB RAM with 3600Mhz and good timings (16-18-18-36 ish). Also ditch the evo and get a 1TB Crucial MX500 or ADATA XPG 8200pro. WD black sn750 is also good. I also recommend you get a motherboard without wifi, and buy a separate wifi card with an antenna like https://www.amazon.ca/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K
Yes. Here are some examples:
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K/ref=lp_13983711_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504033815&amp;sr=1-2
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Express-Adapter-TL-WDN4800/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=lp_13983711_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504033815&amp;sr=1-1
I actually have the TP Link myself
would this work?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JNA337K/?tag=pcpapi-20
Using on board wifi means you "share" resources in addition to limiting your selection to only a handful. I'd suggest using an expansion card such as this and choosing the motherboard you prefer. Also make sure your router supports type "ac" to take advantage of the most recent wifi standard.
I use an ASUS PCE-AC56. About $65 USD on Amazon. it's PCI-E, so it prevents from having to waste a USB port, and I honestly think it's faster.
Heres a speed test for the hell of it, on Ethernet i get pretty much the same.
Not sure what you're asking, sorry.
Here's an Amazon page for details It's AC wifi with 2.4 and 5Ghz bands.
$50 shipped.
LMAOOOOOO https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K get this i have it and the internet speed is up to your provider even if you have a good receiver your internet is still slow if you have a bad isp lol get out of here rodrigo
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K
The ASUS PCE-AC56 Wi-Fi PCI Express Adapter should serve you well.
I would definitely get a better wireless adapter if I were you. Those little usb dongles don't tend to get very good reception.. and your D-link adapter has pretty awful reviews in general.
If you don't mind spending a few bucks, I'd suggest getting a good PCI wireless card.
This one would probably do wonders for you: http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K/
One important standout feature here is that it lets you move your antennas away from obstructions, so you'll have a clearer line of sight for your wireless signal.
Also..
Heres two that would work well.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016K0896K?tag=pcpapi-20&amp;linkCode=ogi&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JNA337K?tag=pcpapi-20&amp;linkCode=ogi&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
The asus one is slightly faster but both should do the trick.
What's the difference between these two wireless cards aside from price:
Asus
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K
TP Link
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Adapter-TL-WN881ND/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506458576&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=TP-link+n300+wireless+PCI-express+adapter+%28TL-WN881ND
And which would overall be the superior card to use?
And would both work with the new Z370 motherboards (that are compatible with the 8th gen intel processors that are coming out)?
Realtek doesn't make the actual adapters just the chips that run them. Broadcom is another,theres Atheros which Qualcomm owns. Anyway they aren't bad chips. For instance this Asus Is using a broadcom chipset.
Anyway pretty much any PCIE adapter with antennae will probably do. Generally speaking ignore the "gaming" ones as it's the same thing just with some QOS and more software and extra money.
Most adapters that aren't "basic" are probably going to be more than what you need by a large amount. They're are, however, some "nice to haves" things like multiple antennae for both 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz for "Beam forming" which works both ways to improve the signal. Or an ASIC for processing the data.
Anyway I spent some time looking and found the Rosewill n900 With an Atheros AR9380 It's bigger brothers have similar Atheros chipsets if you want to bump up to wireless AC, assuming your router supports it. Anyway Atheros are good chips, found pretty much everywhere but sometimes the implementation isn't so good. (Mostly labtops and not add-on cards) On the hardware side anyway. Make sure you have good drivers and any updates that come along should be checked.
Intel's little niche for wifi is little standalone chips that go into laptops for the most part. They do have adapters that you can use to place them into desktop computers but then your looking at the chipset plus adapter and you kind of have to know what your going for. I did find quite a few PCIE cards but most had older chipsets. And one good premade Has one less antennae but also has bluetooth and supports AC. Needs an empty USB slot on the motherboard to use bluetooth.
Recommend something like this if your going to put your pc on the wifi - rather the USB adaptor
ASUS PCE-AC56 Carte PCIe Wi-Fi double bande AC1300 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00JNA337K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D.eTDbQCCQMS1
Is your signal strength good where you plan to use the adapter? The AC55BT B1 is a notebook WiFi adapter on a PCIe adapter, so it's power limited compared to a full-sized PCIe adapter, like the TP-Link Archer T6E or ASUS PCE-AC56.
Price History
CamelCamelCamel │ Keepa
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Price of a Pawn, value of a Queen.
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I'm from the UK but you can find the same for wherever you are.
ASUS PCE-AC56 Carte PCIe Wi-Fi double bande AC1300 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00JNA337K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RArXCbTSS5QY0
Gigabyte GC-WB1733D-I Wireless-AC PCI-E Network Interface Card + Bluetooth v5.0-1733Mbps https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07FBSV1XZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5BrXCbRWMABE3
TP-LINK T6E AC1300 Archer Dual Band Wireless PCI Express Adapter with Two Antennas https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B013HCNTZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6DrXCb6GTM261
I believe the gigabyte one also has bluetooth 5.0 ( not too sure you can look it up) but I would say these are popular ones and worth money. Personally the asus or gigabyte one will do great!
Thank you for the reply. I brought this: ASUS PCE-AC56
The cable running into my room was somehow damaged up in the attic in the unit above ours (condo complex) and instead of fixing that they decided to use the cable in another room and reroute the incoming signal to that. Sucks but what can you do.
So I got this wifi card and this router and things have been working out pretty well.
Here is the mobile version of your link
Hey everyone. Tearing my hair out here trying to figure out why suddenly, after it had been working perfectly for over a year, I'm getting random pops/clicks (like buffer size issues) out of my Focusrite 2i2 (2nd gen) in Windows 10. I'm not using this for a DAW or anything, just on the personal PC and running the system outputs to my monitor controller. I'm having this issue occur across all sound sources...Spotify, iTunes, YouTube, Netflix, Hulu, etc.
Full disclosure, yesterday I did have the case open to install a wireless PCIE card, but ran into driver issues with Win10 and pulled the hardware out and completely uninstalled the drivers/support-software. I switched back to my shitty USB wireless card, and noticed the pop/clicks. I initially thought it was a network issue because it seemed to only occur while streaming something, but I confirmed that it's also happening when playing back mp3's off of a HDD in iTunes, so it's gotta be an issue with the converter.
Here's the troubleshooting I've performed so far...can you guys let me know if I'm missing anything here before I nuke the system and put a fresh Win10 install on it?
I guess one last thing worth noting is I did update my GPU driver earlier in the day (1070Ti), not sure if this could be a contributing factor.
Anyone see anything I'm missing from a troubleshooting standpoint? Am I at the point that I should just wipe my SSD and put a fresh install of Win10 on it?
The cooler will fit! :)
I ordered this network card: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JNA337K/ref=mp_s_a_1_18?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491789923&amp;sr=8-18&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=wireless%2Bcard&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
Combined with one of the nighthawk models of router
I personally use this card: https://amzn.com/B00JNA337K
It has the advantage, that is comes with an antenna base, that you can put in some place with better signal. It should perform very similar to yours in every other regard. If you're able to run a cable to your router that is of course the better solution for performance. This was not possible for me though.
UGREEN 3 Ports USB 3.0 Hub with 10/100/1000Mbps Gigabit
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLUEJFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Q6KCybZT06YGF
Here's the one I got. Works well for me.
I went through 3 different adapters trying to find one that worked, and here’s what I learned.
The best ways to tell if a LAN adapter works with the Switch is either that it has “for Nintendo Switch” in the name or that it specifically uses the ASIX AX88179 chipset. Usually the chipset will either be in the product specifications, or you can just copy and paste it into your search and many will have the chipset in the title.
The adapter I ended up getting that worked is this one. That however also has three extra USB ports. If you don’t need that, they make a cheaper base model here. If you really want to stay below $15, I would say that’s your best bet.
Hope that helped.
I have this one which works pretty well : https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B00LLUEJFU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_E2EEDb2M7GJK6
I’m playing on a MacBook Pro that has windows installed on it, so I don’t have a Ethernet port. However, I do have a USB to Ethernet adapter https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Ethernet-1000Mbps-Windows10-Nintendo/dp/B00LLUEJFU/ref=asc_df_B00LLUEJFU/?tag=googlemobshop-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=293008414058&amp;hvpos=1o2&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=16694141174177941372&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9000476&amp;hvtargid=pla-445007008012&amp;psc=1. Should I use this?
They sure do.
I bought: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Ethernet-1000Mbps-Nintendo-Chromebook/dp/B00LLUEJFU
Which I like over the non hub versions as I like the added ports and use an 8bitdo adapter that I leave plugged in to it.
Here it is. UGREEN Ethernet Adapter USB Gigabit Network Adapter 10/100/1000Mbps/1 Gbps with USB 3.0 Hub 3 Ports for Nintendo Switch, Windows Surface Pro, MacBook Air/Retina, iMac Pro, Chromebook, and More PC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLUEJFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fOIACbW4JBJGW
They have one without the Ethernet adapter for about $12
Is this adapter fine if I also want more usb ports?
I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-1000Mbps-Gigabit-Ethernet-Compatible/dp/B00LLUEJFU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482350142&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=Ugreen+Hub+USB+3.0
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00LLUEJFU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I've got this one, and I haven't noticed my Switch running hot at all. The dock is placed behind my tv with plenty of ventilation though.
I purchased this USB 3.0 hub when I first got the Mibox a few months ago and it is working great.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLUEJFU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I still have an issue with certain types of videos, I got a free Vudu movie (Tmo Tuesdays last week) I chose the HDX version and even though I was wired, it was pixelating every 5 seconds, tried casting it, same issue. Since I got the HDX version I was able to choose the SD version as , I had to do this via the app on my Android phone and cast it and it worked great. Only issue so far.
This one seems pretty good to me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLUEJFU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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I'm not sure if it has been mentioned here but I really like that it also gives you some extra usb slots along with being an ethernet adapter. Something to think about assuming it's fully compatible.
I like to use both my front USB ports and a game cube adapter so I bought this on amazon, plug it into the back and you got a LAN adapter plus room for a game cube adapter while leaving the front open for pro controller charging, ect.
I've got one of these. I think I was getting 90MBytes/s in Linux. No extra drivers required.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLUEJFU/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLUEJFU
Here's the link, I bought this one too. Works great. Yea, the MiBox is USB 2, so you won't get the full gigabit speed, but I get more than 100Mbit/s. Doing a speedtest via fast.com on my 150 mbps connection, I get what I do via a PC about 160... IMO, it's worth it to get the usb 3 gigabit adapter, you won't get gigabit speed, but you'll get more than 100mbit which is what you'd cap yourself at with a usb 2 adapters.
The reason I got mine was for some reason the mi box was messing up my router's 5 ghz network. If I left the mi box on the 2.5 Ghz network, everything would work fine, but then I'd get speed issues with it buffering more. Switch to 5 Ghz, buffering went away but randomly usually every 2-6 hours, my router's 5 Ghz network would stop working and then suddenly come back after 15 minutes... Switched the mi box to ethernet and disabled wifi and no more problems.
yeah, you can search on amazon. there are several that are compatible. I bought this one, because it has a usb hub too for charging pro controller. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLUEJFU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
CABLED MOUSE AND KEYBOARD WORKS WITH FIRE STICK!!!!!
If anyone ever find this, it seems there is no big problem if you just put in an cabled USB Keyboard/mouse into the stick via OTG Cable and/or a USB HUB.
I just did put an random cabled Keyboard/Mouse(5€) into the hub/OTG and it worked, the mouse did took some minutes, or i had to restart the stick, before it worked.
I have not tested much arround if how good it works in all the apps.
Only Problem so far, there seem to be no Home or Return Key Combination, while im in an app, i have to use The TV Remote, or Stick TV Remote for that so far.
The HUB also worked with mouse/Keyboard and LAN connected at the same time, cause there can be problems if there is not enough power from the FIRE STICK TV Power supply.
I USED THIS CABLE
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00V9XS4V4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
AND THIS HUB
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00LLUEJFU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
USB to Ethernet?
so have you considered a usb ethernet adapter?
I had to do so for my motherboard and it resolved my wired network issues. Maybe like the amazonbasics usb 3.1 ethernet network adapter?
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1000-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00M77HMU0
From the official Wiki Guide this are the most recommended lan adapters
>Adapter HORI$29.99AmazonMarch 3, 2017Plugable USB 3.0 to 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet LAN Network
>
>AdapterPlugable$14.75 AmazonReleasedStarTech USB 3.0 to Gigabit Ethernet NIC Network
>
>AdapterStarTech$29.99 AmazonReleasedAmazonBasics USB 3.0 to 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet
>
>AdapterAmazon$14.99 AmazonMarch 10, 2017 - Temporarily out of stock / withdrawn
>
>UGREEN Adapter for Nintendo Switch UGREEN$29.99 AmazonReleased
So don't worry your safe buying the UGREEN one, just keep in mind that for some reasons there a bunch of people that have better speed on wifi than over LAN its just a weird thing on some ISP
I'm using this and it works perfectly:
AmazonBasics USB 3.0 to 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet Internet Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M77HMU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SZMmDbHSFTR44
Not sure about its availability in other countries
Should only be $10-$15 on Amazon. But not everyone is compatible with the Switch. Always check the Questions & Answers first before buying. Amazon Basics (3.0, NOT 2.0) seems to work, except the cord is too short to close the back lid, if that's important to you: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1000-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00M77HMU0
I'm using an old Wii USB-ethernet jack I had from my Brawl days, still works fine.
Only time I had a disconnect was when trying to stream Sling TV at the same time, though I blame that on Sling - it gets weird at the half hour mark & always surges in bandwidth as it loads the next hours TV guide
Usually these things here are decent and it's not too expensive to try out if you got a spare cable. It might very well be that your wifi signal is the problem. Did you move something around? Did you try to play directly next to the router?
Cheers,
Kaharos
I don't have much to offer but you've done everything I would of done to resolve the issue, and I would be at a standstill right now as well. I see the laptop model is missing an ethernet port so perhaps something like this will be of assistance to you.
https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-1000-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00M77HMU0
I can only start to think perhaps the laptop is somehow defective since I've had some (although rare) purchased with defects. But you don't say if the computer is brand new or older or if the issue just started happening, etc.
If you go the wired option and have an Ethernet switch and Ethernet adapters for each Nintendo Switch, then you are effectively setting up your own network and wouldn't need to worry about the company's network as it would all be independent of that and would likely be the best way to guarantee a quality experience.
Example 8 port Switch
USB to Ethernet Adapter
5 Pack of 10' Ethernet Cables
What would be nice is if you could just bring your own wireless router that is not connected to anything, and if every device can connect to this wireless router even though it doesn't have Internet, then it should in theory work the same and prevent you from needing all that extra equipment I listed above.
I would definitely have a chat with your IT department if you have one. It is not uncommon that they may have an extra unused/old Ethernet switch laying around + cables they could let you borrow.
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This Amazon Basics 3.0 one works with Switch according to user reviews. The USB 2.0 apparently doesn't work though.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M77HMU0/ref=psdc_13983791_t1_B00BBD7NFU
Did you try the same config on a different NIC?
Buy one of these and reply after you test it:
AmazonBasics USB 3.0 to 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M77HMU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2H2xCbCSCMGHX
so first, are you getting 140 megabits or 140 megabytes per second when you're on ethernet? bits would be bad. a maxed out ethernet connection should give around 120, maybe 140 megabytes per second on a good sequential read.
It sounds like your life might be better if you can just get the MacBook plugged into ethernet. I see apple sells a thunderbolt to ethernet adaptor. But it's a little spendy.
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But what about a cheap USB 3.0 to ethernet adapter. I think you can find one that will work on MacOS. This was the first thing that popped up from searching:
https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1000-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00M77HMU0/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
$14
oh and on an unrelated note, your wifi speeds might be kinda slow. What's your router and how far away are you? I think the MacBook Pro has a 3x3 802.11ac adaptor, so if you have a 3x3 AC1900-ish router, you could get a theoretical link speed of around 1300mbps, which could give you effective 600mbps transfers, or around 60-75MB/s transfer rates.
Is anyone having problem with the LAN adapters for the switch? I'm trying to use it for Smash and notice lag when connected through LAN but not WIFI. I am using the Amazon Basics USB 3 Cord which when connected to my computer gives 315.74 Mbps Down and 37.13 Mbps Up. Connected to my switch it gives me 20.5 Mbps Down and 16.9 Mbps Up. This is half of what 5Ghz is giving me, 46.0 Mbps Down and 16.9 Up.
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|Connection Type|Download Mbps|Upload Mbps|
|:-|:-|:-|
|Computer LAN|315.74|37.13|
|Switch LAN|20.5|16.9|
|Switch WIFI|46.0|16.9|
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Extra Info:
When playing in Arena with friends I am the only one lagging despite having the better connection and regardless who is hosting. This led me to unplug my adapter which fixed my problem. I also calculated my MTU for my connection and changed it to 1500 to see if it would improve it at all. Port Forwarding is on for the switch and it has priority on my router. I have tried Cat 6A and 7 plugged into 2 different LAN adapters both which were tested on computers to make sure they weren't faulty.
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TLDR: LAN ADAPTER PERFORMS WORSE THAN WIFI FOR ME NOT SURE WHY.
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Thanks for any help.
The Wirecutter did a review of various USB-C accessories here: http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-usb-c-adapters-cables-and-hubs/
That included evaluating two (small) hubs, though neither have ethernet.
Is there anything stopping you from getting a generic USB-C hub and plugging a USB-ethernet adapter into it? E.g. the Wirecutter's recommended USB-C hub with a USB3 to ethernet adapter?
Best solution: Run an Ethernet cable to the room where the Switch is, and connect it to an Ethernet switch (not a Nintendo Switch). Connect an access point to the switch to provide Wi-Fi to this part of the house, and also connect the Ethernet switch to the Nintendo Switch's dock via a USB adapter. Use the port inside the dock. This will let the Switch use Ethernet rather than Wi-Fi when docked.
USB 3.0 10/100/1000 gigabit ethernet adapter https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1000-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00M77HMU0
Oh, cool.
You can generally do that without a hub. If you fire up wireshark, you can just filter on IP addresses outside of your internal range and that’ll generally work with a lot of routers.
Alternatively, you could find a switch that supports some kind of Promiscuous Mode, or if you’re feeling particularly dangerous, look into ARP Spoofing.
If you only plan on doing this temporarily, the easiest thing would probably be to buy a USB Ethernet Adapter, connect the modem to the Ethernet port on your computer, then plug the WAN port on your router into the USB Ethernet. That way you can just funnel all of the traffic through your computer. That’ll make inspection quite a bit easier. :)
I gotcha :)
Just get a USB to ethernet like this. Few if any games need more than 16 GB if ram unless you're using a VM or something.
I'm seeing some rather insane rationalizations here for something that should have no more than 4 components...
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So, from a networking and simplicity aspect what should be the case is simply this:
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Router > Ethernet Cable (insert length here - there's little chance he's exceeding 100m...) > Adapter attached to Laptop (USB to Ethernet, basically a USB NIC)>Laptop.
Any other wonky combination is over-complicating an extremely simple set-up.
here's a link to a 10/100/1000 USB NIC dongle that doesn't cost more than $14.
USB 3.0 10/100/1000 NIC
Here's a link to a premade Ethernet cable of whatever length you decide to choose:
Cat 6 in lengths of 3 Feet / 5 Feet / 7 Feet / 10 Feet / 15 Feet / 25 Feet / 50 Feet / 100 Feet
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1000-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00M77HMU0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1550115154&sr=8-4&keywords=usb+to+ethernet+adapter
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:)
You could get the Dell G5587-7866BLK-PUS which is good for general use and a little more than light gaming. While battery life is not important to you it gets up to 5 hrs after a full charge which is rare for a laptop with this much power
· 15.6" LED Display 57% sRGB
· 8th Gen Intel i7 Processor,
· 16GB Memory,
· 128GB SSD+1TB HDD,
· NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050Ti,
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Its OS comes on the SSD which means boot times will be fast and whatever programs you put on it will be sped up a bit and you have lots of space on the HDD for bulky files, music photos vids etc. Build wise its displace is stable so you can open it with one had and its case is firm with little flex but it is made of plastic. You can add more RAM, upgrade the keyboard and easily clean its components if you are into that sort of thing. While the GTX 1050 Ti GPU is weaker than the GTX 1060 that would be ideal at this price point it is properly cooled so you should not have any throttling issues. The fans do not get loud unless you are gaming hard and it does have an Ethernet slot built in. But you can get adapters for other laptops though
Heres one for $10
I have the same issue so I use this and it works great
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1000-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00M77HMU0/
Drivers in kernel 3.9 and above. According to this https://www.clonezilla.org/downloads/stable/release-notes.php kernel is 4.16.16-2
I guess it's easier to understand if I link some stuff.
You can get something like this cable, this adapter, this hub, or anything else that looks similar. They all do the same thing so it doesn't really matter which. Any of them can connect to the bottom of the Switch to let you plug USB stuff in. Switch has the same kind of port (it's called USB-C) as the recent Macbooks so a lot of these things say they're for Macbook but they work with Switch too.
Only some USB LAN adapters work with Switch. Here's a few examples: HORI, Plugable, Cable Matters, AmazonBasics. Any of these work the same so get whichever one you can. They all work with the dock too.
If you don't care about using a LAN adapter with your dock at all, you could also get this LAN adapter instead which plugs directly into the Switch without needing another adapter, but you cannot use it when the Switch is docked.
Get an external USB one.
Blocked airflow otherwise.
AmazonBasics USB 3.0 to 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet Internet Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M77HMU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hWF2DbDBTABM1
AmazonBasics USB 3.0 to 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet Internet Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M77HMU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tN2ZDb3AES9GW
Or would one of these work?
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1000-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00M77HMU0/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=usb+to+ethernet+adapter&amp;qid=1573710393&amp;sprefix=USB+to+&amp;sr=8-6
Here you are, Captain.
Apologies if you've tried this already, but have you looked into using an Ethernet-to-USB adapter such as this one?
When I was in Margad a few years ago there was a router in each common room, and wifi only in the few rooms near the common room for each floor.
I also had a mac and just bought a usb to ethernet adapter and it worked fine (https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-1000-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00M77HMU0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503983731&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+3+ethernet, for example).
I also set up a router and called the network "Ben's Personal Hotspot" (so that it'd just look like I was tethering) and was never caught.
Would something like this be worthwhile? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M77HMU0/ref=asc_df_B00M77HMU05139008/
Amazon's adapter works fine. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1000-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00M77HMU0
Why would you buy the official LAN adapter when you can get a third-party one for $15?
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1000-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00M77HMU0/
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1000-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00M77HMU0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522191838&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+ethernet
A Raspberry Pi is probably your cheapest & most power efficient route, and Amazon sells that ethernet adapter you want.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M77HMU0/ref=asc_df_B00M77HMU05403372/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;creative=394997&amp;creativeASIN=B00M77HMU0&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=167140037427&amp;hvpos=1o2&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=8377632108222249582&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9021148&amp;hvtargid=pla-195027879195
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1000-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00M77HMU0/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=Y4B0PRRGXVNREFGWJVC7
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1000-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00M77HMU0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480947767&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=usb+ethernet
Looks like that can get gigabit through USB3.0. Looks solid, and of course Amazon is great at returns if there's a problem.
would something like this work to hook the TPCast router to your computer?
AmazonBasics USB 3.0 to 10/100/1000 gigabit Ethernet Adapter
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1000-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00M77HMU0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506045022&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+to+ethernet
I mean it's Amazon's product. It can't be fake.
Can I just use something generic like this
Or do I need to find something specific that is compatible with my computer? Sorry I've never done much in terms of physical repairs.
Thanks a lot for the help by the way, really appreciate it!
I'm using this one - the Amazon Prime usb 3.0 - and it's as close to flawless as one can realistically hope. I don't know why this particular link is to Amazon Fresh, but whatever.
the ethernet adapter is actually a good idea since im going all digital...holy i cant believe i didnt think about that. should probably also get an ethernet cable for the adapter to my box.
edit* ive actually never bought an ethernet cable...does anyone know what kind i should get if im getting the amazonbasicl usb3 one? the switch will be less than a foot away from my box so i dont need some 50 foot cable or something. using a basic att uverse 2wire box also if needed to know what it will be plugged into.
Make sure you also purchase a LAN adapter. This is the one I use and it works pretty well.
I've used this one from Amazon on my 9370. Tested on my home LAN I get decent throughput. On my Lenovo Y50 it seemed like it liked to drop the connection after a couple hours but momentarily unplugging it brought it back. I use it on a 9370 and I'm not sure I've tried it long enough to see if it drops the connection. (I'm running Debian Linux but would expect it to run at least as well on Windows.)
The AmazonBasics one works for me with no issues. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M77HMU0
I used this Ethernet Adapter to connect the laptop to the network hard wired (I 'forgot' the WiFi network before connecting it).
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The laptop seems to have gotten slower. I used the default speed test from Google. Ookla did register much faster speeds but I wanted to compare apples to apples.
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You can use any old USB 3.0 to Ethernet Gigabit adapter you can find on Amazon for $15, if you want. Just pick the cheapest one without a bunch of terrible reviews.
Edit: This looks like a decent candidate: https://amzn.com/B00M77HMU0
is the problem the internet itself or that your devices don't pick up the signal from the router? in the latter case, I can recommend this extender. It's worked great for me. I live on a second floor with the Liberty modem/router downstairs. The difference is night and day since I got it. You can plug the antenna straight into your laptop or use the cable that it comes with and place it somewhere where it gets the best signal. The cable it comes with is only about 2ft however, so you might want to get a longer one depending on your situation.
As suggested by /u/JustinTheCowSP you need a better wifi adaptor, I suggest you looking into this, https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Wireless-External/dp/B00MX57AO4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485586121&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=alfa+wifi+adapter I myself have this adapter and have been using for 3 years now with no lag, strong signal and great speed. Also check your wifi adapter setting on your current pc, you might have to fiddle with some settings to get better signals.
When I was researching wifi in the past, I found that the receiver didn't really matter. What matters is the antenna your using. I'm not to hot on bandwidth limitations through usb 2.0/3.0/Pcie with wifi cards. I would assume usb 3 is better than 2 and pcie is the top dog. In your case I would assume they don't really make that much of a difference.
If you use the third one that you posted, and upgrade the antennas to a 9dBi antenna and screw those on instead of the antenna that came with the receiver, you will get a higher receiving range on your computer and a stronger connection. Not necessarily faster download speeds because, ya know, wifi. If you SOMEHOW are able to find the router, or eventually set up a repeater, you could buy another pair of those antennas and slap those puppies on, that may boost your range even more. At that point, if you're really concerned, you can try exchanging antennas until you get the best range for you and your computer. For now stick, with the Alfa wifi adapter and if you're not happy with your range, upgrade both antennas to the 9 dBi version. Those will definitely help you out. :)
If you're looking for a USB adapter, this one treated me well. https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Wireless-External/dp/B00MX57AO4/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466282629&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=alfa+wireless+adapter
in USB 3.0 the speeds and rate at which those speeds were delivered were identical to ethernet. However, be sure that you wireless router is up to snuff, as gaming on wireless can be problematic.
Then your only option is to get a better antenna. Get a external USB WiFi dongle with big antennas, like this one.