Best usb network adapters according to redditors

We found 3,607 Reddit comments discussing the best usb network adapters. We ranked the 525 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about USB Computer Network Adapters:

u/BOFslime · 44 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Using a Plugable USB 3.0 Ethernet Adapter (ASIX AX88179 chipset same as the UGREEN), and have had the "Console warm to the touch when connected to ethernet in Sleep Mode" issue since the 5.0 patch. This did not happen prior to that patch. My understanding is that the change in 5.0 that caused this is that the Switch remains connected all the time while in sleep mode, instead of periodically waking for software update checks.

Unplugging the far end ethernet jack and leaving the ethernet adapter connected to the console will correct the issue, and the console will not be warm to the touch in this state. Which seems to suggest the issue is indeed related to the constant connection and update checks, and not the usb adapter itself being powered on while in sleep.

I do not have the other issue OP mentioned, my network switch still shows connected in sleep mode when plugged in, which is why issue #1 is present due to the constant connectivity.
I would like to see the port actually make use of its USB 3.0 hardware capabilities, but this is very minor, and only mildly useful for people with 500Mbps+ internet, and won't help gameplay much if at all, just downloads.

u/MrPerson0 · 43 pointsr/smashbros

Please note that the official Nintendo Switch LAN uses the ASIX AX88179 chipset, which is basically the best one for the Switch to use and the one you should recommend. I would completely ignore the first LAN adapter you linked to, and primarily suggest the second one you linked to, or this one which is a few cents cheaper.

u/Vsuede · 42 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Jesus christ...

It's a USB wireless adapter people - it's not a modem. Yes, good wireless routers are theoretically capable of high speeds. Adapters not as much. None of this has anything to do with ISP speed. This entire thing reeks of peasantry.

u/Michelanvalo · 36 pointsr/KotakuInAction

Mother boards with WiFi have external antennas (scroll down a bit), they just screw on the back like any other WiFi radio. Bluetooth receivers tend to be no bigger than USB dongle ones but they don't take up a USB slot.

Wifi motherboards do not cost more than using an external card. WiFi LGA1151. Non-WiFi.. The 3 external adapters you linked cost $37, $85 and $108 respectively. The difference between two motherboards is certainly less than $85 for one with and without Wifi.

Additionally, if you notice most of the WiFi enabled motherboards are mini-ITX where space is at a premium. Using built in Wifi is a space saver. Rather than trying to cram another PCI card in your already limited space.

There are plenty of valid reasons to buy a motherboard with built-in WiFi, don't come at me with your bullshit.

u/MeowMixSong · 33 pointsr/answers

An Alfa AWUSO36NH USB wifi card, an [Alfa R36 802.11 b/g/N Repeater and Range Extender for AWUS036H](https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-R36-Repeater-Extender-AWUS036H/dp/B004ZF0I3U/], a TP-Link 2.4GHz 24dBi Directional Grid Parabolic Antenna, and depending on how far away it is, a TP-Link 2.4GHz 24dBi Directional Grid Parabolic Antenna, and a TRENDnet Low Loss Reverse SMA Female to N-Type Male Weatherproof Connector Cable. You'll also need a tripod mount, and a meter long pole. This setup is very directional, but if you have a clear line of site, it's perfectly doable.

u/kawlundram · 30 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

The licensed LAN adapters are pretty overpriced as they are. Most LAN adapters that are compatible with Switch can be found for far less than the standard Hori

I personally use one of these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLUEJFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_M.Z5Bb6EPC3RV

u/Nonethewiserer · 23 pointsr/buildapc

Try wifi. I've been using it for a couple years on my desktop with 0 issue. Great speed and no connectivity problems.

You have to figure out what works in your setup. Many people recommend PCI adapters if you go wireless, but USB works fucking great for me. Very happy with this http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1418551585&sr=8-3&keywords=tp+link+wireless+adapter

u/PVNIC · 23 pointsr/ComputerEngineering

Step 1) Cut the socket off C
Step 2) Cut the front of A
Step 3) Take out your soldering iron and wire strippers
Step 4) Buy https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Ethernet-Portable-1-Gigabit-Chromebook/dp/B00ZZ6NW5E

u/cvrtxs · 23 pointsr/hmmm

I’m pretty sure the couple of people who downvoted this guy have no idea what they’re talking about

-something like this but it goes in the usb slot

u/ChrisOfAllTrades · 21 pointsr/wiiu

Your power word is "ASIX AX88772" which is the chipset used in the official adapter.

This one works fine.

u/stimmie · 20 pointsr/PleX

This is the adapter that is tested: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00BBD7NFU/ref=pe_3044161_189395811_TE_SCE_dp_1

I have ordered it as well to use on my LG C8. The adapter is said to be working despite the TV not recognizing it or showing the settings.

edit: made a table with the reported working results so far:

|Model|Adapter|Chipset|User|
|:-|:-|:-|:-|
|LG B7|CM B00BBD7NFU|?|cipher7777|
|LG B8|CSL B074THPF3L|?|wilberforceReginald|
| LG 65B7V|CM B00BBD7NFU|?|sliyk|

u/danhm · 19 pointsr/kodi

Raspberry Pi 2 Model B

Supports CEC. Comes with 4x USB 2.0 slots, an HDMI, quad core ARM A7 processor, 1 GB RAM, and an ethernet port. Also has GPIO pins but I don't know of any Kodi related uses for them. It is an extremely low power device (uses about $3 worth of electricity per year) and requires nothing to keep it cool (e.g., no fans blaring in the middle of your favorite movie).

Base cost is $35. Requires a microSD card, an HDMI cable, and a microUSB charger, all of which can be purchased for approximately $5 each. An existing microUSB charger, such as from your cell phone or a device like a Kindle or Chromecast can be used, of course. Optional components include a case ($10-$20 or 3D print your own), USB wifi dongle ($10+), and an external hard drive ($50+). A few companies put out bundles that include a Raspberry Pi board and various components such as this basic one and this more complete one. A wireless keyboard ($20+) can also be handy. Product links are provided as examples; there may be better deals or smarter purchases to be had.

You'll then want to use a minimalistic Linux distro such as OpenELEC or OSMC, both of which are designed specifically to run Kodi and have optimized builds for a Raspberry Pi. OpenELEC seems to be more popular and is what I use myself. Installation is easy -- you just download and write to your SD card (oh yeah, you might need an SD card reader, $5). If you'd like you can also install a "real" Linux distro and install Kodi in that as you would on a regular desktop computer. You can either store your media on an external hard drive connected to the Raspberry Pi or on a separate computer or NAS and share your files over your LAN.

Pros:

  • Cheap base cost
  • Low power
  • Very hands off after initial setup
  • CEC! Use your TV remote to control Kodi
  • Hardware decoding for h264
  • As it is full-fledged computer you can easily add in additional software such as emulators, a web browser, etc.
  • More of a DIY solution (may be a con)

    Cons:

  • A few plugins (typically they are Windows dependent) and more computationally intensive skins may not work
  • May get pricey if you need to buy all the separate components
  • Can not handle 10-bit x264 (aka Hi10p; rare outside of anime fansubs) or HEVC (aka h265) files.
  • No 4K output, max resolution is 1920x1200
  • More of a DIY solution (may be a pro)
u/trd86 · 17 pointsr/smashbros

http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Network-Adapter-Chromebook/dp/B00484IEJS

$12, just a generic USB to Ethernet adapter. You do not need the Nintendo adapter.

u/BeanerSA · 15 pointsr/buildapc

If it's short term, whatever is at least as fast as your internet connection. I'll assume you're in the US, so how about https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG

u/Nakotadinzeo · 15 pointsr/techsupportgore

Donor? why not new?

Here's a black one

Here's an orange one from a site that you will want to use a reloadable MasterCard to buy from

while it's open replace the laser (check your model number for exact laser replacement, this is just an example)

Open ps2 loader and all that.. I ended up having to order a swap magic disk to install free mcboot but there are other ways.

This is optional and expensive, but it will also be an upgrade for any internet connected device around your TV:

  • Grab 2 suggested dual-band AC routers suggested here and flash one (or both DD-WRT is awesome) with DD-WRT or Tomato. If you already have a dual-band AC router, there's no reason to replace it, just get one dual band AC router and flash it.

  • If you haven't already, replace your old router with one of the new ones (the one you don't have to flash with DD-WRT). Configure it as normal, you just upgraded your WiFi significantly though.

  • Take the other router and follow the instructions to install the latest version of DD-WRT/Tomato, your going to need the additional functionality of these third-party firmwares.

  • configure this router as a wireless bridge device, set it to connect to your other router in the 5Ghz spectrum. Make sure that you set this router's IP address as something other than the default 192.168.1.1 or you will have to start over with a 30-30-30 reset.

  • Plug it in behind your TV and plug in anything that has an ethernet port to it (the PS2 with the hard drive kit obviously, but your Xbox 360/one, PS3/4, set-top boxes, smart TV, HTPC, rasberrypi, etc)

  • If your PC is pugged into the router with a cat6e and has a gigabyte nic, your done. If you have your PC on a wireless network, you need to check to see what revision of WiFi your wifi nic supports. If it supports AC, you don't have to go any further. If it's a G/N card, you will also need to upgrade it as well. Laptop suggestion, Possibly needed accessory if you need a long card, Desktop suggestion

    What has all this done? Well, firstly your network is now upgraded to AC and that has given you a ~1Gbps link to your modem and other PCs on the network (assuming that you upgraded them all with new WNICs). have fun transferring your entire install of Fallout 4 from one PC to the other in a matter of moments, this would be a great time to look into faster internet packages because you can handle it.

    But the other thing, the thing that made you have to do all this scary firmware flashing on expensive networking equipment? Your devices now have a 1Gbps link to your router as well. That's far far better than the NICs in the consoles/set top boxes and since the PS2 has no wireless NIC, this was completely necessary to have it attached to your TV and be able to stream the ISOs off your PC. The router is working backwards, using WiFi as it's WAN connection and supplying connection to the ports.

    This is essentially the setup I have, except I'm using my old Dual-band N router as my wireless bridge. The PS2 can load a game far faster than it could off the disk through the network, but also my 360/PS3 can download content and updates far faster than they can with their internal adapters. Anything pulling network video will be more responsive, and will be able to utilise the full speed of your internet connection for things like Netflix.

    Is it a lot to connect your PS2 to the WLAN? oh yeah, but your also upgrading your connection for everything else you use at the same time.
u/terraphantm · 15 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Anything with an AX88179 chipset would work. UGreen and Pluggable seem to be popular brands. I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLUEJFU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - I figured the extra USB ports might be nice to have if I want to run 2 gamecube adapters

An alternative would be the Bionik ethernet adapter, which fits entirely in the dock so it's a bit cleaner: https://www.amazon.com/DreamGEAR-Soundbar-Home-Speaker-BNK-9018/dp/B07583N38P/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1542675672&sr=8-7&keywords=bionik+switch

u/imakepr0ngifs · 14 pointsr/HowToHack

Oh they’re connected to wifi?

I would set up a rouge wifi access point with same SSID and password as the existing one. If you need the password, you can dump it from the computer you have access to. Then you can send a single deauthentication packet to the MAC address for the target computer until it chooses your network (this is not a denial of service as you are forcing his computer to connect through your lab computer, which is still connected to the network)

From there, you can do network captures and control DNS. Do a network capture of port 80 (unecrypted) and DNS requests. He likely has software that automatically checked for software updates over HTTP (VLC does this, among others) every time he starts it.

Alternatively, you can rewrite a DNS request to cause windows to pop up a native windows login window via captive portal (the pop up you see at starbucks wifi)

Documentation here: https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/drivers/mobilebroadband/captive-portals#cch

All in all, wifi makes things a lot easier. If you have an atheros/other wireless usb handy you can do all of this in ~15min or less.

Here’s the model I use:
TP-Link 150Mbps High Gain Wireless USB Adapter for PC and Laptops (TL-WN722N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NC40CbD87F441

It’s $15 and even if you don’t succeed, you’ll never have crappy wifi on campus again. I have 3 in my bag right now.

u/HybridCamRev · 14 pointsr/videography

/u/BigOleBallsack - I would get neither. With a $5000 budget, unless you need to take still photos, I recommend an interchangeable lens Super 35 camcorder instead.

By the time you buy ND filters, an XLR audio solution with decent preamps and rigging (e.g., a top handle) to compensate for the GH5's or the A7s II's still camera ergonomics - you might as well buy a real video camera.

In your price range, I recommend a [$2595 Super 35 4K JVC LS300] (https://www.amazon.com/JVC-GY-LS300CHU-Ultra-Camcorder-Handle/dp/B00USBVISE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?m=A17MC6HOH9AVE6&s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1487897950&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) with a [$399 Metabones Canon to micro 4/3 autofocusing adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/Metabones-Smart-Adapter-Thirds-Camera/dp/B014C1BF7O//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) and something like a [$799 Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 lens] (https://www.amazon.com/Sigma-18-35mm-F1-8-Lens-Canon/dp/B00DBL0NLQ//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20).

The LS300 has these features that still cameras lack:

u/EpiclyEpicEthan1 · 14 pointsr/homelab

Raspberry Pi 3

Raspberry Pi Clear Case

32GB MicroSD Card

Netatmo Weather Station

Wind Gauge

Rain Gauge

Rain/Wind Gauge mounts

3 Way HDMI Switch

1FT HDMI Cable

Wifi Adapter

Everything is attached to the back of the television with some double sided sticky paper things i had lying around. Anything will probably work.

The USB wall outlet is one that delivers 3.1A at 5V that we bought from our local hardware store.

The server that the software runs on is a poweredge r710 with dual x5670s and 64GB of ram. Of course, this isnt all it does, but it is one of the many things i host on it. :)

If you'd like, i can post the scripts i wrote for it as well.

u/Combmatt · 14 pointsr/SuggestALaptop

Just buy a usb to ethernet adapter!

Cable Matters USB to Ethernet Adapter (USB 3.0 to Ethernet / USB 3 to Ethernet / USB to Gigabit Ethernet / USB to RJ45) Supporting 10 / 100 / 1000 Mbps Ethernet Network in Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BBD7NFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AufEDbNBKJMBS

u/neilenore · 12 pointsr/AndroidTV

Mi Box S is the next and cheaper alternative for Android TV. It has 4K and HDR but no ethernet adaptor, you should be able to add one by getting an ethernet adapter (Ugreen brand works perfectly for Mi Box users):

You should be able to get one on Amazon

Ethernet Only ($13)

Ethernet w/ USB 3.0 ($20)

​

If you will be mostly streaming or watching you should be fine with a Mi Box.

u/Fairuse · 12 pointsr/Chromecast

I used the following guide for my setup.

https://productforums.google.com/forum/#!topic/chromecast/xo_NDh5CZA8;context-place=topicsearchin/chromecast/category$3Achrome-os

The ethernet adapter I got was the Linksys USB3GIG. It is nice that the USB3GIG supports 1000Gb and has USB3.0 to take full advantage of the bandwidth in theory.

My setup cost me $29, but it can be done for $20.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CXAC1ZW

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYT481C

Edit: I changed the amazon links since I didn't realize amazon shorten links are referral links.

u/kratosauron0 · 12 pointsr/splatoon

@frostlie You should definitely try this. Even in handheld mode, if you have a USB-C to Ethernet adapter, you should be able to play online.

Something like this should be adequate : https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00ZZ6NW5E/

u/abovocipher · 11 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Obviously you can use whatever, but these are what I used for this project. I bought the 2 pin power ports off of Ebay. For the NES case, try searching "Broken NES" on ebay and you should be able to find some. Or use an entirely different shell and post it!

u/Xagon14 · 11 pointsr/shittybattlestations

I will list all parts I used to get it in a functioning state along with the price I got them for.

  • RPi - $35 + ~$10 shipping

  • Broken portable DVD player (reader was busted, not screen) - Free

  • Composite wire that came with DVD player - Free

  • Cheap USB wifi adapter - $10

  • SD card that came with my camera - Free

  • Wireless keyboard/trackpad combo - $16

  • My phone charger - Free

    Overall comes out to about $80 after taxes.
u/codyave · 11 pointsr/Bitcoin

do you mind if i link your amazon referrals from youtube?

Raspberry Pi Model B Revision 2.0 (512MB) $42.88

WiFi Dongle $9.99

16 GB SD Card $12.98

also, would it be all right to link to your bitcointalk thread?

good luck with your project!

u/tUber- · 10 pointsr/wiiu

I've bought this one a few years ago and it works perfectly: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00484IEJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think every ethernet adapter with the same chipset (ASIX AX88772 chipset) will work with Wii U.

edit: formatting

u/Saint_Flip · 10 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Having played a lot of Splatoon I would recommend getting an Ethernet adapter. The one I liked below works like a charm.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQM8586/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Vandstar · 10 pointsr/techsupport

Fresh build or did you install this on a machine that you have been using for awhile? Also what OS? Have you tried the card in another machine? I see that you believe that the drivers are current, have you tried an older driver. Is there more than one driver for this card on the manufacturer's support site? Why did you purchase a $200 network card when one 1\3 the price would have worked fine? Define your WiFi environment, what router, what extenders, what other devices are on the WiFi network? Do you have a remote weather station? Did you have another WiFi card in the machine before this one? If so did you remove the previous cards drivers and all software? When you installed the driver, did the driver package include proprietary Asus software besides the driver, or did you install the driver by itself? What size was the driver package in MB's? What motherboard are you using? Does it have built in WiFi or LAN? Out of curiosity, what software are you using to measure speed? If you don't know all the answers, just answer what you can and we can piece it together fairly easy. I have more questions, but those can wait.



Edit: Did you pay $200 for this card? I don't know the historical prices of this card, you may have bought it a year ago when the price could have been higher, card prices drop pretty quickly as do all PC components over time.

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K

u/saltac · 10 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I've just tried this out.


I have my UGreen USB ethernet adapter plugged into my Anker USB-C hub with PD and my Anker Powercore+ 26800 PD battery powering the whole thing.


Its charging and showing me the squiggly line for wired ethernet on the screen, so I'm pretty sure any dock using compatible components will work in the way you want.

As an aside - obviously the HDMI port doesn't work, unfortunately.

EDIT: the UGreen Ethernet adaptor is plugged into one of the USB A 3.1 ports on the Anker hub.

u/MeCJay12 · 10 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Get one of these. They aren't great but it's what you need. Runs off USB power so you stand a chance of not having to install electric.

u/perennialExhaustion · 9 pointsr/SBU

The big metal thing up top is called Yagi antenna, which is basically just increases signal strength to nearby WiFi access points. Looks like this one

Connected to that is an external USB network adapter, looks like the awesome T-Link Archer or N150 connected to a USB extension.

​

So what OP is doing is extending range and connecting to a different nearby router, probably optimum wifi off campus or something.

​

EDIT: whoops, OP responded while i was typing. Didn't show up until now.

u/wickedcoddah · 9 pointsr/RetroPie

Parts List:

Power Adapter

Raspberry Pi

USB Super Nintendo Controller (This is the best one I have found so far)

HDMI Cable

WiFi Dongle

Other Items you will need:

USB Keyboard

Monitor or TV with HDMI Support




Now you dont have to use these parts exactly, there are plenty of other parts you can use. I am pretty sure that you can play Roms up to Playstation 1.



There is also a new Raspberry Pi 3 that is compatible with the RetroPie software which has WiFi and Bluetooth integrated into the board.

Helpful Video's to tackle technical issues with your RetroPie:

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLtht1mv6ty8xMBwgHX9RCkplqeSRxyHiC




Here is the Case I found on Etsy. There are plenty of other sellers but this guy was great!

u/whosywhat · 9 pointsr/gadgets

There are USB wifi adapters for Raspberry Pi that cost less than half that:

http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY

u/hcweb · 9 pointsr/raspberry_pi

The items used:

Raspberry PI Zero <- Bougth mine at local store.

http://amzn.com/B00S82B0VA <- Karaoke Mixer

http://amzn.com/B00SNLIG5O <- 128GB SD Card for storage

http://amzn.com/B001MSS6CS <- USB Audio Card

http://amzn.com/B003MTTJOY <- Wifi Adapter

http://amzn.com/B005HKIDF2 <- Usb Hub

A total of around ~$90



Edit

If a mic is needed that add $20
http://amzn.com/B003GEBGA0 <- Mic

u/nohpex · 9 pointsr/gadgets

Get this one instead. It's USB 3.0, caps out at 100 Mbps, and is on the list of USB 3.0 adapters that work. I have two different ones unfortunately, and this is the one that works.

Edit: I just noticed that this one is currently unavailable. Wait a day or so, and check again. They usually run for $15.

u/zacharee1 · 9 pointsr/lgv20

There's nothing specifically for Android and USB-C, but chances are a simple USB-C to Ethernet adapter will work just fine:

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-1-Gigabit-Compatible-ChromeBook/dp/B00ZZ6NW5E

It is a bit expensive, but I trust Anker's quality, and it's Amazon, so it's pretty easy to return if it doesn't work.

u/amd_kenobi · 8 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Make an all purpose travelpi.
Get a PI3, load it up with raspbian or your preferred OS and throw it together with this Screen and case combo. Add some heatsinks to keep it cool, put emulation station on there for all the downtime gaming action you could ask for. Then have some fun playing with accessories. Here's a bluetooth vehicle diagnostics monitor you can use with pyOBD to monitor any 96 and up vehicle to check gas mileage and check error codes. Here's a GPS module for logging miles and checking locations and for the times you just absolutely must get wifi no matter what heres an adapter and antenna that will reach out and touch someone in the next country.

Edit: game pads

u/AtrumTalio · 8 pointsr/smashbros

Hands down, yes. They're practically necessary, in my opinion.

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Network-Adapter-Chromebook/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1487086534&sr=8-7&keywords=wii+u+ethernet+adapter
This is the one I use, and it works fine. They're kind of finnicky with the wii u in general, but it works very well for me. Don't buy the ugreen one, that one is shit and doesn't work.

u/xMeowingtons · 8 pointsr/iastate

Assuming you live in the dorms, don't use the WiFi, it really is utter garbage and I never had the patience to use it when I lived in Friely. If you have a device with an Ethernet port, your best bet is too use that, as it is much faster. If you happen to have a device without a Ethernet port, they make usb to Ethernet adapters such as this one: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00BBD7NFU

Hope this helps.

u/Phonochirp · 8 pointsr/nintendo

> Now if you can help me fix the lag.

Here, I also recommend subscribing to a real ISP, but that varies between regions.

u/Ultramarine6 · 8 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I found This One for $10 that's been working for me just fine.

u/Finnocci · 7 pointsr/HowToHack

study for CompTIA A+.

They teach you stuff that a normal every-day user wouldn't need to concern themselves with, like OSI layers, types or protocols and standards for data transition. I think it also covers some aspects of security like what hashing is, types of encryption, and gets you used to some tech lingo that an average user may not understand.

After that, go for Network+, it dives deeper into...well, computer networks.

Plenty of free resources for both certifications online. And if you do decide to test for the certifications, they look real gucci on your resume if you have no prior IT experience.

After that, if you have some spare dough, pick up a cheap used laptop for probably $150 or so, and probably pick up one of these guys as well. You don't need any fancy specs. Just enough for you to download Ubuntu and learn linux, setup a challenge for yourself to navigate the operating system using the terminal and the terminal only. That includes installing new programs, opening up files, executing scripts, everything. No double clicking allowed, limit yourself from using the GUI of the OS as much as possible. If you want something done, learn to use the terminal to do it first.

And imo it's really important to do it in that order. Don't be like a lot of people, who thinks buying a laptop and a airmon-ng compatible wifi adapter will make them all set to start becoming a 1337 hacker, and lost interest in a month or two and have basically just wasted their money. Hacking really doesn't have a set course, but if you find yourself with enough interest and discipline to grind through two boring (but very informative) certifications, I believe that then you know you are in the right field. Mostly, you pick up pieces of knowledge here and there, no book is gonna be a fit-all solution towards becoming a hacker. It is the sum of those pieces of knowledge, that makes a hacker a hacker.

u/tthatfreak · 7 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I've got one and it was recognized immediately with no issues.

http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-Wireless-Adapter-Wizard/dp/B003MTTJOY

u/rapemybones · 7 pointsr/CrazyHand

As long as it's a Gigabit adapter, they're honestly all the same speed. I bought the Plugable because it was recommended by lots of others, has great reviews for Switch use, it's affordable, AND it's USB 3.0 compatible. Works perfectly btw, perfect size for the side plate.

The Hori/Nintendo one is more expensive (more than double the price) and doesn't have 3.0 capabilities. Now that doesn't matter right now, but people believe that the Switch console is also 3.0 capable, they just haven't provided an update to "activate" it. If they ever do, and there's any speed increase to be seen, you won't get it with a 2.0 adapter like the Hori/Nintendo.

u/Bodycount9 · 7 pointsr/AndroidTV

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLUEJFU/

Ethernet port for the Mi Box solved. It's solid. Been working on both my Mi Box's for over a month with no downtime.

u/nikto11 · 6 pointsr/buildapc

I have this usb adapter that I use from time to time, and this which I use pretty much all the time and have had for about 2 years. I like being able to move the antenna to get a better signal, right now it's velcro'd to the wall behind my bed.

If you go the usb route I'd probably buy a larger one that I have that has external antennas, like http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1421374210&sr=8-8&keywords=usb+wifi. But I'd still go PCI if you use it a lot, probably last longer and have a better quality connection.

u/limited-papertrail · 6 pointsr/privacy

Do you have an Android smart phone or tablet?
If so, DL the Wiggle wifi app.

With it running, you can walk around the property and better triangulate various signals.

If you have a macbook, you can do the same thing pretty much with Kismac. I use WiFiFoFum to do it with an iPhone, but it requires jailbreaking.

Subnet Insight is an absolutely amazing app for iPhone for taking keeping track of your local network and keeping it safe. It's $5, and the only non-free software I'm linking.

If you have an external wireless adapter, or are willing to spend $15-$30 on a specialized one, I can walk you through putting it in monitor mode and really getting the the bottom of the issue.

Here's a simple tp-link USB wifi adapter you can use to monitor all transmissions over B/G/N wifi, [for only $11 amazon prime.] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG). Here's a very high quality (and foolproof) directional antenna you can use to make it much more effective for less than $30.


^Also ^a ^lot ^of ^the ^advice ^you've ^gotten ^so ^far ^is ^pretty ^badummmmm, ^or ^too ^complicated ^w/out ^better ^context.
But don't be discouraged. Network internals & also wifi/radio signals are complex topics, but the basics are accessible enough to pick up quickly in your situation.

u/calladus · 6 pointsr/raisedbynarcissists

Your father is VERY good with computers? You are basically screwed unless you can dramatically up your game.

Basically, a knowledgeable person can upgrade a router with open source firmware, and give himself god-like powers over the network. Your every move could be tracked.

Your father, if sufficiently skilled, could give you access to Internet that is upside down, or only directed to Kittens, or he could make every single image blurry or missing. More subtlety, he could just log every single thing you do on the 'net.

And it isn't even that hard, it just takes knowledge of what is possible, and the use of Google to figure out how to do it.

There are things you can do. Get a cheap USB WIFI adapter first. So you won't show up on your father's router with your current WIFI adapter. Then, tether to your Android phone, or piggyback off of a neighbor's WIFI.

Last, keyloggers are a possibility - they could be hardware or software related. It is possible to install a hardware keylogger inside the case of your laptop if the installer is sufficiently technically talented. A keylogger, or other software or firmware would completely compromise your computer and prevent you from hiding almost anything that you do.

u/SaladWithHotDogsInIt · 6 pointsr/linux

These are $10 and the work right out of the box.

u/NorthAntrim · 6 pointsr/techsupport

The best solution for using WiFi on your desktop would probably be to get a PCI wireless card, like this one.

If you aren't comfortable adding a PCI card, or don't have any space for one, you can get a USB wireless adapter, such as this one.

Finally, if you want a better solution that's not running a long cable, buy power line adapters. You plug one into a socket near the router and connect it via Ethernet to the router, then you plug another one in beside your PC and run Ethernet from it to your PC. It uses the wiring in the house to carry data, and is often better than WiFi.

Personally, I would go with the power line adapters then the PCI wireless card.

u/backwoodsgeek · 6 pointsr/openbsd

I don’t think OpenBSD supports Broadcom WiFi at all. Your best bet is probably to get a supported USB adapter. I have a couple of these that live in my OpenBSD laptops that have junky onboard WiFi. Mostly old Macs with Broadcom WiFi.

u/rayzincrisp · 6 pointsr/xbmc

I bought THIS. I use it exclusively with openELEC and when I hooked it up my router was about 40 FT from my box.

THIS is running on my Raspberry pi openElec box that is right now about 15 feet from the router (on a different floor)

I haven't tested the range on either, but both work great.

u/Slinkwyde · 6 pointsr/techsupport

I suggest doing a virus scan that's completely outside of Windows. That way any malware that might be there will have less chance to execute and interfere with the scan. It's also useful just as a second opinion.

  1. Download Xubuntu or Lubuntu and follow their instructions ( Windows USB | Windows DVD | Mac USB | Mac DVD) to put it on a flash drive or DVD. Or you could use your preferred Linux distro, if you have one. Lubuntu is more lightweight, while Xubuntu has a nicer interface. The reason you may want to burn a DVD is that some computers are unable to boot from USB.
  2. With her computer off, plug the drive in (so that Windows has no chance to modify the drive), and boot her computer from it. Choose the "Try without installing" option.
  3. If you're not using Ethernet, connect to WiFi (probably the default password on the side or bottom of the router). If her WiFi card doesn't work out the box, use Ethernet (perhaps via Powerline Ethernet adapters) or a well-supported USB WiFi adapter.
  4. Look in the app menu (similar to Windows start menu) for the package manager / software center / app store / whatever they call it.
  5. Once there, search for ClamTk. ClamTk is a GUI for an antivirus program called ClamAV. If you prefer, you can use ClamAV from the Terminal, but you'd need to look up the commands yourself.
  6. Open ClamTk, make sure it downloads the latest virus definitions, and then tell it to do a recursive scan of a directory: the top level of her hard drive.
  7. Let it run. It may take a while to go through all the files.
  8. If it finds anything, look through the list to check for false positives.

    When finished, click on the app menu (same one as step 3) and tell it to restart. When prompted, remove the flash drive / DVD and then press enter.

    These are NOT complete, step-by-step instructions. They're only enough to sort of convey the general idea, so some of these may require a little trial & error or Googling. If this is new to you, try it on your own machine first before doing it on hers. VirtualBox is a free program for using virtual machines, and you could use that for practice.

    Keep in mind that no work or settings will be saved while booted from the flash drive. Everything is kept in RAM unless you save to a disk. Linux doesn't get installed to her machine unless you deliberately run the installer program.
u/Diesel4719 · 6 pointsr/computertechs
u/GaryJS3 · 6 pointsr/lgv20

You have a few options. Be careful of the gigabit Ethernet usb adapters. The gigabit ones use a different chipset than the 10/100mb ones. I've heard of compatibility problems with the gigabit ones. With my v20, I use a type-c to USB 3 adapter along with a USB to 10/100 Ethernet NIC.

(Adapter, also includes a useful type c to micro USB so you can use other people's micro USB chargers, I keep these in my wallet )
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01J7KE7SE/

( USB NIC, There's cheaper ones than this, but you really want the indicator lights so you know it's working )
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00484IEJS/

They said no routers. Which I can understand. But what about an unmanaged network switch?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A128S24/

u/choyjay · 6 pointsr/smashbros

You need a LAN adapter that has the AX88179 chipset, or it won't work. It's not rare or anything, but there are different ones, so check before you buy.

The Plugable one is a popular buy for a good price ($15) and a reliable brand.

u/programstuff · 6 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Yeah it makes a huge difference. Another one that works which was recommended else where is the Plugable USB 3.0 lan adapter $14.75, works great for me

u/ConfessionsAway · 6 pointsr/gadgets

I have a network card in my gaming rig alongside a gtx 970 graphics card and the usb card is in the front of the case and plugs into the motherboard.

u/Emerald_Flame · 6 pointsr/techsupport

OP either got ripped of, or is making shit up. That card he linked only costs $55 brand new. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JNA337K

u/alch3m1stz · 6 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Of course it can! hubs dont need drivers. I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLUEJFU/

you get a usb ethernet and a hub all in one :D

However, there isnt a game that really supports 8 controllers right now. Bomberman really only supports 4 sets of joycons which they translate L and R joycons inputs seperately even though they are paired in sets. so it's really a hack rather than true 8 controller support. you'll probably get at most 4 controllers on a hub.
https://www.konami.com/games/bomberman/r/us/en/page/controller_settings/

u/Phaedrus0230 · 6 pointsr/NintendoSwitch
u/ssl-3 · 6 pointsr/raspberry_pi

One network jack is totally appropriate for a little general-purpose hobbyist SBC.

If you want a little, inexpensive computer with lots of Ethernet jacks, just buy one. If you want an Odroid N2 with an extra network jack, add one.

u/CpE_Wahoo · 6 pointsr/smashbros

USB! Check out Amazon for inexpensive adapters that will improve your online gaming on the Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M77HMU0

u/Salsastrength · 6 pointsr/splatoon

you can get a random one on amazon for like 10 bucks. I got one for my wii u and it works on my switch as well.

edit:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYT481C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

this is the one I got, so I can guarantee it works on switch.

u/mywindow · 6 pointsr/nexus6

Sure, It has two modes:

u/Doombuggie41 · 6 pointsr/umass

Lived at UMass for 3.5 years. Played PC games all the time. Had a few different adapters, one rose above them all.

​

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CCMUN8C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

This sucker worked FLAWLESSLY! Still using it today with no problems.

u/ItsADanThing · 5 pointsr/buildapc

Unfortunately most gaming headsets are quite overpriced, a popular option without spending a lot is this mic that clips onto normal headphone wires ($8) maybe get that and save up for a better headset or some good headphones and a modmic.

For the internet if you have to use wireless get the internal card, if you can run an ethernet cable do that and consider a cheap usb adapter for interim.

u/yardmonkey · 5 pointsr/hacking

I think you're mixing issues... Klisch will certainly let you install software or drivers if you need.

And antennas don't need drivers or software, it's the card that needs a driver.

I use an Alfa external card, and Amazon will recommend several antennas if you need more than that.

https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-802-11b-Wireless-Original-9dBi/dp/B001O9X9EU

I've also heard good stuff about TPLink external cards. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG

u/melancholyway · 5 pointsr/Amd

Did you buy him the card already? The RX 470 and RX480 are coming at the end of the month and will both feature better performance in battlefield and GTA and both are cheaper than that $250 380 you have in the cart.

But to answer your questions. No the 860k won't be much of a bottleneck in those games. Especially if you overclock it a bit with a good cooler. That cooler in your list only does a light overclock.

Can I also make a few suggestions?
You're building budget but went with a $200 monitor? Might as well spring for freesync and 1ms response time while you're at it.

Better Cooler - trust me it's worth it

2 Sticks of 4GB Instead for Dual Channel

Wifi Pci card over usb wifi

Why not a nice Micro Atx case to match the motherboard





u/mbazdell · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Something like this. The OP link then is probably the same thing but the person who took the picture had no idea what it is. This is funnier now.

u/kyfho · 5 pointsr/DIY

I would take a Raspberry Pi.
Add an HDMI to VGA Cable.
Mix in a little Wi-fi Adapter.
Season to taste. (Wireless KB/M, USB drive, Chromecast, Wireless controller, Nintendo Emulator, Wireless speakers, etc...)
Mount behind monitor and mount monitor on wall in garage or bathroom and add a dash of power.
And then play games, watch movies, sports, etc....In the bathroom, garage, shed...

^(I have no idea if this would work but now I want to try it).

^^*Fixed ^^spelling

u/phirewire110 · 5 pointsr/Android

$8

Edimax EW-7811Un 150Mbps 11n Wi-Fi USB Adapter, Nano Size Lets You Plug it and Forget it, Ideal for Raspberry Pi / Pi2, Supports Windows, Mac OS, Linux (Black/Gold) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_e.tNxbKF8WXNB

u/thewrongstuff95 · 5 pointsr/BSD

This adapter works when following these instructions.

u/kingphysics · 5 pointsr/Android

It could be possible but I don't know if it would the phone would pump out that much power.

We already have stuff like http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003MTTJOY/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/190-9632706-9095906 (I use one on my older laptop that has a fried wlan card, this USB wlan works like a charm)


If we can get a USB OTG phone and somehow load the drivers for this USB wifi adapter and then add software that makes the WiFi Hotspot work, then sure.

u/johnnywalker94 · 5 pointsr/netsecstudents

Using the Wireless Pineapple is the easy way of pulling off these attacks. I can assure you that they just utilize the aircrack-ng suite. You can buy an alpha NIC(network interface card) and Raspberry Pi. Although you can perform these on a laptop and a packet injection capable nic. You can either write a bash script, which is very easy if you are familiar with shell environment, and perform all the attacks plus more. Here is a script I wrote a couple years back that allow you to pull off some of the attacks. Also with some attacks that may not be included.

http://johnny-walker.net/scripts/wset.sh

u/overfloaterx · 5 pointsr/Surface

+1 for this hub.

Haven't run into any issues using it with multiple devices simultaneously (e.g. mouse + headphones + HDD), no random disconnections, no transfer speed problems from external HDDs, etc. And it really is incredibly compact compared to most similar hubs.

The only thing it lacks that some hubs have is a built-in ethernet port. That said, ethernet is usually only an emergency fallback solution these days, and the port dimensions would necessitate a much bulkier hub. You can always get a separate USB3.0 to RJ45 GbE adapter in case you want to carry it for specific occasions while saving space with the smaller hub most of the time.

u/4g0t · 5 pointsr/HowToHack

So for my battery pack, it's a mycharge.com product. I just got literally the biggest one they have. I use the Broadcom adapter on the device to connect to the local wifi and a panda USB wifi dongle with an upgraded antenna. If you really want I'll troll through my amazon purchases and try to find it but Panda has good drivers and can monitor. The antenna should be on the "customers who bought this also bought this"


Edit:
Panda Wireless PAU06 300Mbps N USB Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JDVRCI0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rjlCzbCSVWP98

u/chris21914 · 5 pointsr/AndroidTV

UGREEN USB 3.0 Hub Ethernet Adapter 10/100/1000 Gigabit Network Converter with USB 3.0 Hub 3 Ports for Nintendo Switch, Windows Surface Pro, MacBook Air/Retina, iMac Pro, Chromebook, PC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLUEJFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vpR4Cb67NFW5G

u/aninfinitedesign · 5 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Not really - they're trying to get the price as low as possible while still generating profit. I'm sure they have stats on how many people use the port, and it didn't make sense to include it when looking at the cost / benefit analysis.

People that want it can pick up an adapter for $15 and go on their way.

u/EpicDerp37272 · 5 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Will this work on the switch?

u/largepanda · 5 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

> Can I just use any inexpensive ethernet adaptor, or is it recommended that I use the one specific for the Switch?

The Switch can only use adapters with chips that are, or act like, the ASIX AX88772 chipset.

You don't need a Switch branded one though. I suggest this AmazonBasics one, although you need the USB3 version; even though the Switch doesn't support USB3, the USB2 variant uses a non-compatible chipset.

> Will anything bad happen like the bricking when put into a 3rd party dock, or will there really be no difference?

It just won't work. Nothing bad will happen, but nothing at all will happen.

----
See this post for more information.

u/-Rivox- · 5 pointsr/talesfromtechsupport

you need this ethernet to usb adapter plus this apple usb c adapter.

I don't know if the macbook is compatible with other usb c adapters though. If it is, then you could save a little there, but still, 100$ to connect with an ethernet cable, after purchasing a 1000+$ pc...

u/inferno10 · 5 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I think the problem might be the ethernet adapter. I don't have that adapter, but it looks like the USB 2.0 version doesn't work with the Switch; you want the USB 3.0 version.

EDIT: Yeah, I definitely think it's your adapter. Look at all the reviews that mention the Switch on the USB 2.0 version versus the USB 3.0 version

u/kid_schnitte · 5 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

You can get an adapter for a wired connection, like this: UGREEN LAN Adapter USB 2.0 Netzwerk USB zu RJ45 Ethernet Adapter 10/100Mbps https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00MYT481C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Mm1RBbAZA6Z08

u/AtxGuitarist · 5 pointsr/DIY

I designed and built this coop with inspiration from other designs. We have a unused side yard that we turned into a chicken pen with a coop. In about 3 months our chickens should start producing eggs!

Here is the parts list for the Pi camera:


u/itsdandandan · 5 pointsr/PleX

You can hook it up via ethernet with something like this

http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Micro-B-Ethernet-Raspberry-AX88772A/dp/B00RM3KXAU

u/NintendoManiac64 · 5 pointsr/buildapc

Few different build variants depending on your cousin's needs.

Note that this motherboard only has 2 PCIe slots, so you might not want to use a wifi adapter that's PCIe (I personally am partial to this IOGEAR ethernet-wifi adapter, but it's only 150mbps and the 300mbps version is more expensive at $44 bucks).

Special mention that the RAM is known to work with the motherboard.

 

4core/8thread CPU + 250GB SSD + 1TB HDD:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1400 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $157.49 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $77.98 @ Newegg
Memory | GeIL - EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $93.99 @ Newegg
Storage | SK hynix - SL308 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $77.89 @ OutletPC
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $48.44 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Asus - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Phoenix Video Card | $129.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair - CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $26.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Wireless Network Adapter | Asus - PCE-AC55BT PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $31.90 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Cooler Master - R4-S8R-20AK-GP 28.9 CFM 80mm Fan | $4.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | Asus - VS228T-P 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $89.99 @ SuperBiiz
Mouse | Redragon - Centrophorus M601 Wired Optical Mouse | $12.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $887.53
| Mail-in rebates | -$45.00
| Total | $842.53
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-26 04:04 EDT-0400 |

 

4core/8thread CPU + 120GB SSD + 3TB HDD:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1400 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $157.49 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $77.98 @ Newegg
Memory | GeIL - EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $93.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Kingston - A400 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $51.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Asus - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Phoenix Video Card | $129.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair - CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $26.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Wireless Network Adapter | Asus - PCE-AC55BT PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $31.90 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Cooler Master - R4-S8R-20AK-GP 28.9 CFM 80mm Fan | $4.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | Asus - VS228T-P 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $89.99 @ SuperBiiz
Mouse | Redragon - Centrophorus M601 Wired Optical Mouse | $12.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $903.08
| Mail-in rebates | -$45.00
| Total | $858.08
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-26 04:12 EDT-0400 |

 

faster 4core/8thread CPU with better cooler + 120GB SSD + 2TB HDD:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1500X 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $176.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $77.98 @ Newegg
Memory | GeIL - EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $93.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Kingston - A400 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $51.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $66.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Asus - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Phoenix Video Card | $129.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair - CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $26.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Wireless Network Adapter | Asus - PCE-AC55BT PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $31.90 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Cooler Master - R4-S8R-20AK-GP 28.9 CFM 80mm Fan | $4.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | Asus - VS228T-P 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $89.99 @ SuperBiiz
Mouse | Redragon - Centrophorus M601 Wired Optical Mouse | $12.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $899.58
| Mail-in rebates | -$45.00
| Total | $854.58
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-26 04:16 EDT-0400 |

u/ravioliisgood · 4 pointsr/msp

This is the one I used. Currently unavailable from Amazon but Monoprice might have it in their website.

Monoprice USB Extender over CAT5E or CAT6 Connection up to 150ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L14ZTC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1BuPBb72WB7KB

u/ParallelProcess · 4 pointsr/apple

This one is very small and says in the title that it works with Mac OS.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/

u/jcs · 4 pointsr/openbsd

Yeah, one of these (supported by urtwn) in one of these. Not ideal, but hopefully temporary.

u/millertv79 · 4 pointsr/RetroPie

The NES Pi Cart was my first project too. I enjoyed the process immensely. Before I started I couldn't solder and had no clue what 'sudo' meant. Now I've built three retro systems, also since December, two with LED's, with zero prior Linux knowledge. I can suggest this guide which will give you a completed system in a few hours.

https://howchoo.com/g/mti0oge5nzk/pi-cart-a-raspberry-pi-retro-gaming-rig-in-an-nes-cartridge?utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=picart

If you want plug n play then Buy a NES classic. If you wanna learn some new skills keep on the course man. Had to try some different wifi dongles myself. This one works out of the box with retro Pie and Pi Zero. sNES30 controllers never worked for me. Return and try wired maybe. PS4 controller works flawlessly for me.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_ECL4xI3dTpHx7

u/InconsiderateBastard · 4 pointsr/linuxhardware

I use this with Ubuntu GNOME daily. No config or software installation was necessary.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-oU8yb19MESCZ

u/loginname · 4 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Edimax EW-7811Un on Amazon

Works right out the box.

u/AtomicMayonez · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

^^^pcie*
There are a few options.

  1. Use a USB card. They're cheap, universal, and (usually) highly reliable. Just be careful about speed, I once bought an edimax usb card and it was great, but then bought a cheap kootek one and it was actually only capable of around 1mbps
  2. You can buy a powerline adapter. These let you use your existing power lines as ethernet cables, meaning essentially wherever there's an outlet, you can connect a device to ethernet.
  3. Just run a really, really, long ethernet cable and staple it to the baseboards. the least likely choice, but i personally don't mind it so i figured i'd throw it in there.
    Keep in mind that you're always gonna get faster speeds with a cable as opposed to wireless.
    Merry Christmas, by the way
u/boaratio · 4 pointsr/AndroidTV

I've had no problems with this one from Amazon: Plugable USB 2.0 to 10/100 Fast Ethernet LAN Wired Network Adapter for Macbook, Chromebook, Windows 10, 8.1 and Earlier, Surface Pro, Wii, Wii U, Linu https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_WNPNa6POX637P

Worked right away, and never disconnects. My only issue with the Mi Box so far is that every few days Google Play movies won't work until I reboot. Not a big deal though.

Good luck!

u/beaub05 · 4 pointsr/xbmc

I've got both. FireTV ran XBMC really well out of the box and it still does. I got the Nexus Player a couple weeks ago and it's currently running version 13.2. It navigates the menus just as well as the FireTV, but playback of media is where I have issues.

I get random crashes to the home screen during playback regardless of file type. My enterprise grade wireless N AP is one foot away from the Nexus Player and higher bit rate 1080p media stuttered constantly. So I bought a usb to ethernet adapter, which now works much better.

I plan on upgrading to the 14.2 beta on both devices when I get the time which some people are saying fix some of the playback issues for the Nexus, but right now, just for XBMC, I'd recommend the FireTV.

u/PiGuy2002 · 4 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I’m not sure if you want someone to give you a TL;DR or if you’re are saying OP should have put one.

Either way TL;DR: Buy an Ethernet adapter, It’s not that expensive, will give you a much better connection, and will make other people’s online experiences better as well. If you do get one, buy a USB 3-Ethernet adapter with an AX88179 chipset. Like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQM8586

u/drkaratechops · 4 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I went with this model.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQM8586/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Costs a little more but it's USB 3.0. I figured the inside port supports it and who knows if and when Nintendo will support dedicated servers.

Besides, there are plenty of other devices that support it.

u/Tolanna · 4 pointsr/wiiu

USB 3.0 devices work on USB 2.0 ports no problem. What matters here is what drivers are built in on the system, so if a USB 3.0 LAN adapter has the right chipset, it'll work (but operate at USB 2 speeds). I use this USB 2.0 adapter on my Wii U, and this 3.0 adapter on my Switch. The Switch supports both chipsets to allow compatibility with the older official adapter, but the Wii U doesn't support the newer gigabit adapter's chipset.

u/cipher7777 · 4 pointsr/PleX

Damn, I can confirm this actually works! I already had the following adapter from Cable Works (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00BBD7NFU) which looks to be the black version of the one they discuss in that link.

I've just finished some testing on my B7 with UHD Remuxes of Lucy and Pacific Rim using the XPlay Plex client and the native Plex client. Both software clients are playing these high bitrate 4k Remuxes over Ethernet without any issues for the first time ever!

This has been the biggest issue I've had with my B7 since i purchased it in 2017 as I have all my video content on a large Plex server and was extremely disappointed to learn about LG's decision to go with a 100MB connector on its ports given the issues I saw with my high bitrate 4k files.

Great post, OP!

u/Herdnerfer · 4 pointsr/techsupport

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 to RJ45 Gigabit Ethernet Network Adapter in Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BBD7NFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hgxnzbFE98ZEK


Any USB 3.0 specific adapter like this is going to work fine.

u/evoken1 · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

>Modern WiFi is almost always better than powerline so it is not a surprise there.

I bought a cheapo Netgear $20 USB dongle in the meantime, and it's pretty awful. I have a chromecast and smartphone which I use alot and they have NEVER dropped out from my network using WiFi. However, my brand new USB dongle has dropped out about 4 times in 5 hours and the speed is very consistent, very frustrating to use and terrible for streaming video especially.

Is that because USB WiFi is trash in general, or because I just bought a cheap one? Should I look into buying a PCI-e WiFi card like this?

u/sk9592 · 4 pointsr/AndroidTV

This is the popular one used with the Mi Box:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLUEJFU/

If the USB port does not provide enough power, plug in one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QV5Q5HU/

u/felixmitchell · 4 pointsr/AndroidTV

I can confirm the Bluetooth version (Rii I8+ BT) DID NOT WORK. It would not pair with the Mibox. I'm using the only USB slot for the wifi version of that remote (Rii I8+ Wifi confirmed working). I ordered the item below for a combined ethernet with 3 additional USB ports. Also ordered a Gamesir GS3. Will report if that works.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LLUEJFU/ref=ya_st_dp_summary

u/FunkyFortuneNone · 4 pointsr/RocketLeague

MAC addresses are tied to the physical adapter being used. A "MAC address ban" could be easily circumvented by buying one of these or even more simply, switching from wifi to ethernet or ethernet to wifi (as it would be a different physical adapter hence different MAC address).

u/Torengo · 4 pointsr/CrazyHand

AmazonBasics USB 3.0 to 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M77HMU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EC3vCbH07JBQR

UGREEN Network Adapter USB 3.0 to Ethernet RJ45 Lan Gigabit Adapter for 10/100/1000 Mbps Ethernet Supports Nintendo Switch Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYTSN18/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oC3vCb173PES1

u/Mysterius · 4 pointsr/Dell

Older Thunderbolt 1 and 2 devices, such as those designed for Apple Mac products, would need an adapter to work with Thunderbolt 3, since Thunderbolt 1 and 2 used Mini DisplayPort (mDP) ports while Thunderbolt 3 switched to USB Type-C.

From slowest to fastest, you have:

  • 480 Mbits/s: USB 2.0
  • 5 Gbits/s: USB 3.0 (aka "USB 3.1 Gen 1", confusingly)
  • 10 Gbits/s: USB 3.1 Gen 2 (aka true USB 3.1)
  • 40 Gbits/s: Thunderbolt 3

    That's for speed. For the shape of the plug, you can either have USB Type-A (traditional USB shape) or Type-C (the new shape). There's not necessarily any connection between the shape of the plug and speed, though on the XPS 15 9550 the only Type-C port is a Thunderbolt 3 / USB 3.1 Gen 2 port, while the other Type-A ports are USB 3.0. The new MacBook and Chromebook Pixel have USB 3.1 Gen 1 (equivalent to USB 3.0 speed) Type-C ports, while many smartphones coming out with Type-C ports are still working at USB 2.0 speeds.

    USB 3.0 or above would be preferable, so that gigabit Ethernet is supported. You can get one that uses the Type-C port if you want, but it will still work at the same speed (USB 3.0) as the normal Type-A version. Adapters that take advantage of USB 3.1, much less Thunderbolt 3, are still rather rare. In any case, using Thunderbolt 3 just for Ethernet would be overkill: better to save the Thunderbolt 3 port for a full-scale dock or an external graphics card.

    So, enough background. Some options:

  • AmazonBasics USB 3.0 to 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet Adapter ($16.95)
  • Anker Unibody Aluminum 3-Port USB 3.0 and Gigabit Ethernet Hub ($26.99)
  • Anker USB-C to 3-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Ethernet Adapter for USB Type-C Devices ($27.99)

    The two Anker devices also include a three port USB 3.0 hub, for connecting other stuff.
u/Jedi_Pacman · 4 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Don't buy this one. It's $27 which is way too much for a LAN adapter. This one is less than $12 and works with the Switch just fine as well.

u/ultranoobian · 4 pointsr/interestingasfuck
u/cryptospartan · 4 pointsr/homelab

You're right! I have it over ethernet with an adapter. I can find a link when I get home. Something about using Wi-Fi just didn't feel right.

Edit: This is the one that I'm using.

u/YaztromoX · 4 pointsr/PS4

Two options:

  1. Get a set of Powerline Ethernet Adaptors. These allow you to run ethernet through the existing power lines in your home (without impacting their ability to deliver power), or
  2. Get an external WiFi ethernet adaptor. This will plug into your PS4s ethernet jack, and will then connect to your WiFi router. A decent such adaptor is likely going to have better WiFi than is built into the PS4 (and you may be able to find one that has a better antenna as well).

    HTH!
u/tacsquid · 3 pointsr/amateurradio

eh that's what happens when I try to do shit with my phone

https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-2-4HGz-RP-SMA-Screw--Antenna/dp/B003ZWPRUI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465983658&sr=8-1&keywords=alfa+panel

AMP makes a very noticeable difference but I don't think it's really putting a full 2W. It's cheap though so worth it IMO. Range depends entirely on location, elevation, weather, and what you are "shooting into". Starbucks into an office building is going to have a lot shittier range than say the top of a parking garrage down into a park.

This is basically my "what a hacker might use" set up. The panel, amp, and a NHA and NHR alfa worked great for long range but had some issues with missing packets in Kali. I found the best collection was using airpap cards in Windows wireshark and running attacks via the alfa set up in a Kali Vm.

Also needless to say the airpcap nx card with the 2 external antennas was king but it's a freaking $700 wifi card so it better be.

https://www.cacetech.com/documents/AirPcap%20Nx%20Datasheet.pdf

If you can get 3-4 airpcap classic cards off ebay for cheap (I found 3 for $200) each one can cover 20 mhz of spectrum and you can link them in aggregate with the airpcap control panel. This makes it highly effective for a leave behind collection device against a router that self adjusts. Price might put it out of the range of a regular hacker and more into the industrial espionage price range. You may be able to find an NX for cheap on ebay it seems like cace is getting out of the market with the whole airpcap line so they are getting kinda rare.

edit

also don't forget the noble cantenna. Looks shady as fuck but it's good if you're on a college student budget. You can usually get them just as good as an alfa panel antenna, they just look like a big sign that says "i am up to no good". Make sure if you are using an alfa with an RP SMA connector to build it out of an RP sma and not a regular SMA. Ie fit the pieces together and make sure they're the right kind before you start doing anything.

http://www.turnpoint.net/wireless/cantennahowto.html

edit edit

also check this little guy out. I found him out after I finished my 802.11 stuff but i like it a little better than the alfa cards. Doesn't come with a super fancy antenna when you buy it but it's a lot cheaper and just as good once you put a panel or cantenna on it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SZEOLG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/n0coder · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Absolutely. They sell wifi usb adapters and such if you don't have a built in wifi on the motherboard. I'm assuming you have wifi provided some where.

An example: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG

*Edit: example added.

u/leboulanger007 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I have been using this USB Wi-Fi adapter without any problems since the past couple months. Super cheap and easy to set up, works perfectly.

u/l3af_on_the_wind · 3 pointsr/HowToHack

Alfa cards are great for most things you need to do for any kind of wireless hacking. However, not too long ago I ran into a few issues where mine wasn't compatible with some tools I was trying to use. I got this and it worked for me. You just need to do some research and make sure whatever you get is compatible for what you will be doing with it.

u/minimuminim · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Buy a wifi adapter, they're like $15.

u/Galeanthrope · 3 pointsr/linux_gaming

You can download the last version of the linux-firmware package from Debian Sid repository and install it. If it doesn't work there is ndispwrapper but it's way more simple to buy a 15$ working USB adapter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002SZEOLG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494029810&sr=8-1&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=722n

u/MermenRisePen · 3 pointsr/libreboot

I like this TP-Link one. It has an external antenna, and is one of few that has free firmware in Linux so it works out-of-the-box.

u/deathviahype · 3 pointsr/hardwareswap

this is $15 on Amazon and has pretty good reviews

u/flaming_m0e · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Use an Ethernet extension. Something like this: Monoprice USB Extender over CAT5E or CAT6 Connection up to 150ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L14ZTC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gAjgAbH532FEK

u/oblogic7 · 3 pointsr/zwave

Monoprice USB Extender over CAT5E or CAT6 Connection up to 150ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L14ZTC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZxwcBb3X14395


Why do you restart HA so frequently?

u/impreza25sti · 3 pointsr/htpc
u/bengineering101 · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I can personally vouch that the following peripherals work, but certainly make no guarantees that they are the best options or prices etc. If you are feeling really ambitious you can browse the list of verified peripherals and shop around.

  • Logitech K400 wireless keyboard/mouse combo
  • Edimax USB wifi dongle
  • Plugable 7-port USB hub (this does not back-power the Pi as far as I know)
  • The Pi is cable of providing audio/video out either through the HDMI port, or through the yellow RCA port (video) and the 3.5mm stereo jack (audio). If you're already using an HDMI cable, you do not need to worry about the latter two.
  • Updating the OS: open a terminal and type:


    sudo apt-get update

    sudo apt-get upgrade

    and that should update everything.
u/Th3AntiNoob · 3 pointsr/techsupport

These are cheap and come highly recommended for basic network access:

http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-Adapter-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY

u/EpicTShirt · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/minimalillusions · 3 pointsr/gaming
u/ilogik · 3 pointsr/linux

They also want to make the device available to developing countries, so it's not that unlikely that ethernet won't be available.

also, you might not want ethernet if you've got one of these lying around

u/PaulTheMerc · 3 pointsr/24hoursupport

The one alternative that comes to mind would be to buy and use a usb wifi adapter, something like this. Then disable the built in wifi adapter.

Alternatively, depending on the accessibility, remove the internal wifi and install a different one, IF the part is the specific issue(and not say, the connection of the part), hp should be able to tell you more.

for an internal wifi that is reported to work with that pc, as per here (provided your pc is the HP ENVY touchsmart 15), would be to get this part(Intel® Dual Band Wireless-AC 7260). Note there is a revised and non revised version, am not sure which of the two would work, if not both. That I leave to you.

u/s_mohr · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

This looks pretty close to what you're asking for: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Universal-Short-20cm-Right-Angle-90-Degree-Micro-B-USB-Data-Charging-Cable-/321245338289

20cm is pretty short, but you'll still have a little bit of slack to deal with. Zip ties?


Although, really, your wifi adapter sounds way too big. Why not replace it? http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-Adapter-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1408500091&sr=8-2-fkmr1&keywords=wifi+adapter+enermax

Aesthetically that will look nicer, and it's not a lot more money than a quality USB cable.

u/HeidiH0 · 3 pointsr/linuxquestions

That's usually due to the drivers being proprietary and abandoned. You would be better served spending 10 bucks on a kernel native adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY

u/killerapt · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

It will probably be awhile before im done, just something i play with ever now and then. However Google is your friend. NESpi is a pretty common build. Also I'm an amateur when it comes to soldering lol

My final goal is to have it so it you can insert a nes cartridge with a usb in it and it will read games from this. Also working on getting an old laptop fan to run when it reaches certain temps to help cool it down.

I also tore apart a powered usb hub to power the pi and connect controllers. However I would find one better than mine. Get something with high voltage/amperage. I currently have to power the pi separately instead of through the hub.

Some links for you:



Intro:

https://github.com/retropie/retropie-setup/wiki/First-Installation


Switch I use to make so the NES power button works.

https://mausberry-circuits.myshopify.com/collections/frontpage/products/shutdown-circuit-use-your-own-switch


Controllers
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N48L71I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0QcmzbVPP292R

Wi-Fi
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WUcmzbESCH58S

Then just any short usb and HDMI extensions.

Hope this helps!

u/AL1630 · 3 pointsr/VintageApple

If you run tiger on it, there's one of those tiny wifi dongles that has drivers that will work. I've used it on this and the G4 server.
Only problem is the slow USB ports.

This is it

u/Akyltour · 3 pointsr/gaming

Hi there, sorry for the late answer I was out for the week-end!

It will depends highly on what you expect him to do with it, and also your budget. But for the more standard it will be at least:

  • The Pi

  • A power cable: the "Alim" was a bad use of a french word for power cable

  • A case or another (You can also build one with Legos! :D )

  • a microSD card for the OS (no preference I took the first link I saw)

    Then there can be:

  • A usb wifi adapter if the can't plug an ethernet cable

  • An hdmi cable if you think he will use it on his TV or standard PC monitor.

  • About the controller, if you think he will build a media center linked to his TV with the HDMI cable, some TVs allow the use of "CEC" controller, and so his TV command will be automatically compatible with the Pi. Else, he can use a classic keyboard and mouse set, or some mobile solution or even a snes usb controller if he wants to build a retrogaming console

  • To finish if you have a large budget for your friend there is a lot of accessories you can find in the related articles of the Pi on Amazon, like a webcam, a motion sensor module

  • You can also buy a complete bundle or a starter kit like this if you think he will have fun with all the electronic parts :)

    And I confirm, it can be a pretty cool gift for a friend to build :)
u/muxman · 3 pointsr/LifeProTips
u/compdog · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I've used this one for every Pi I've owned, plus a few computers. It works great and doesn't need any drivers, but the signal range is kind of poor.

u/hudsonreaders · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Easy. You'll need a monitor, ideally something with a USB port so you can use the USB power to power the Pi; otherwise you'll need a phone-charger style USB power supply to plug in. A SD or microSD card, depending on which model Pi you get. For wifi, something like this. For software, pick one the Digital Signage projects. http://elinux.org/RPi_Projects/Digital_Signage

u/rabidfurby · 3 pointsr/freebsd

Edimax EW-7811. ~7000 Amazon reviews, so you at least know it's reliable hardware-wise.

The manpage for urtwn(4) explicitly lists support for it. I've used mine in a Raspberry Pi under both FreeBSD and Linux with zero issues.

u/phoenixMagoo · 3 pointsr/mac

I had the Powermac G5 back in the day with the optional Apple WiFi card and it was not very good. I would maybe look for a USB WiFi solution like: http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY

I would just be sure to make sure that whatever USB WiFi adapter you get the drivers works on a PowerPC and 10.5.8.

u/sprtdfire · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Hi, I'm a founder of Parsec. You should use this dongle. It works really well. https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY. Also, it's not about the bandwidth of 2.4 vs 5. It's about the interference. 5ghz is much better for that reason.

u/Temere · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Will a cheap wifi adapter like this
https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY
work effectively?

u/FirestarterMethod · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-Wireless-Adapter-Wizard/dp/B003MTTJOY

Reccommended by multiple users in the community, I got it and it works perfectly, with no setup.

u/BlamelessVestalsLot · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I use the (TP-LINK TL-WN881ND)[www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0079XWMEI] and the (Edimax EW-7811Un)[www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY]. I never had any problem with them

u/JustAnotherCommunist · 3 pointsr/tails

This one works without needing to install drivers to Tails, make sure to get the N150-Nano.

Never figured out how to make my Asus wifi stick work with Tails. Cheap one's far easier.

u/dumb_ants · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Aside from the intellectual challenge, have you considered buying a wifi adapter off Amazon for $10-15 that already has support in the raspbian kernel?

16 years ago we recompiled our kernels and we liked it by golly, but if there's no need to then please consider saving yourself the headache!

Edit: $8, prime shipping: This is the one I use with my pi - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY - worked first time, no driver issues at all. I would recommend using the wifi setup tools (to connect to your access point) in the graphical windowed environment rather than manually through config file edits. Either way there are lots of tutorials out there.

u/[deleted] · 3 pointsr/mac

Well if you ever want to do it on the cheap I will confirm that this will work in HS https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had to google the driver to install it, but I used it for a while until I could buy an internal Broadcom card to use.

u/KatsumeBlisk · 3 pointsr/archlinux

I have this one. I don't use it that often because it's mainly for my Raspberry Pi, but it works perfectly on both Windows and Linux in my experience with no drivers to install.

u/veritas8911 · 3 pointsr/24hoursupport

Well then it could definitely be your WIFI adapter. If the other desktop has a WIFI adapter you could try it. If not, you might try a different PCIe port for the WIFI. Although a lot of motherboards don't have extra PCIe ports. There are some cheap USB WIFI adapters so you might try one of those. I use this adapter. It's inexpensive and gets the job done.

u/Sertureeeee · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I'm looking at http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00416Q5KI/?tag=pcp0f-20 and http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0035GU3QM/?tag=pcp0f-20 it doesn't really say if it supports Windows 8 or not, it confuses me. It doesn't mention it in either of them but it lists all the other os.

u/schurdl · 3 pointsr/linux

Got me a TP-Link TL-WN822N and it's awesome. Working perfektly under Arch and great connection stability and speed.

u/p1rke · 3 pointsr/AndroidTV

I bought this thing: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uYrIybKSN8E92

Works well. Just plug it.

u/bqnguyen · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Absolutely nothing. DO NOT buy Apple's brand name products. The quality and internet speeds you will be getting are the same.

The likelihood that your bottleneck comes from the adapter is very low. Most likely you won't be receiving max speeds due to the college's internet service, not because your dongle isn't good enough. I recommend this adapter here.

u/japzone · 3 pointsr/cordcutters

If your Roku TV didn't come with an ethernet port, then you'll have to get some kind of Wifi router to plug into the ethernet and connect the Roku TV to that.

There are mixed reports of using USB-Ethernet adapters, but there's no easy way to know which ones are compatible as even different Roku TV models seem to have different results. I've seen mentions of this adapter working for some, but no guarantees can be made.

u/ZairXZ · 3 pointsr/wiiu

This is what i use for my Wii U (and also tried it on my Wii)

http://www.amazon.ca/Plugable-Ethernet-Network-Chromebook-Specific/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381096569&sr=8-1&keywords=wii+u+lan+adapter

I have even used the MH3U Packet Relay Tools (which requires a LAN adapter) and it works just fine.

u/Helixium · 3 pointsr/wiiu

http://www.amazon.ca/Plugable-Ethernet-Network-Chromebook-Specific/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420521458&sr=8-2&keywords=ethernet+wii+u

I live in Canada and I just bought this one a week ago for my new Wii U; it works perfectly. I have had no problems with it and it works right out of the box, plug-and-play. Made my connection much better for Smash Bros.

If this is the one you are referring to: http://www.amazon.ca/HDE%C2%AE-Ethernet-Adapter-Nintendo-Port/dp/B003XWD1G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420521583&sr=8-1&keywords=ethernet+hde+wii+u

As long as it says it is specifically compatible with the Wii U, which it does (and so do the reviews), then you should be fine to get this one too. I can just personally vouch for the Plugable Technologies one.

u/mad212 · 3 pointsr/nexusplayer

USB ethernet adapters are hit or miss on the np. I bought one off amazon that didnt work. Then I bought this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00484IEJS/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it did work.

u/blackbeansalad · 3 pointsr/theNvidiaShield

This is what I have used now for the past two weeks, plugging in this and my keyboard/mouse unifying receiver.

u/Pandomime · 3 pointsr/theNvidiaShield

This and this is what I use for console mode. This setup will let you charge and use Ethernet at the same time.

u/thelwanderer · 3 pointsr/smashbros

Assuming you mean LAN Adapter? I got this one and it works great: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQM8586

For the cable itself you can get just about any Cat5E/Cat6 cable of the length you need and it should work fine.

u/4858693929292 · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQM8586

This is the one I have.

u/JaceSSB · 3 pointsr/smashbros

Umm to be honest your probably fine with the one you have. The reason I recommended the one there is because I have the 100MBPS UGREEN one and it works great and have had no issues. Even things as far as having the Ethernet cable stay securely into the adapter on these is nice which I have had one other where that was an issue. But yeah I imagine the Nintendo ones are great so you should be good with that!

EDIT: Nevermind someone mentioned before that there is a specific chipset for Ethernet adapters that is best for the Switch so if you don't have it might be best to upgrade. Here is the one I found for the best price that they recommended: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Gigabit-Network-Adapter/dp/B00AQM8586

u/FlickFreak · 3 pointsr/AndroidTV

Anything with the ASIX AX88179 chipset should work fine.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M77HMU0/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYTSN18/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQM8586/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FFJ0RKE/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLUEJFU/

All of the above should work with any Android based device. (ie. Shield TV, Mi Box or Fire TV)

u/luckman212 · 3 pointsr/PFSENSE

I don't think it'll be much better, but the AX88179 chipset (axge driver) is listed on FreeBSD's HCL[1]. Lots of adapters have this chipset, here's one for example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQM8586

Perhaps pfSense 2.4.4, with the new 11.2 kernel might bring some improvements. Looks like it's being released next week.

[1] https://www.freebsd.org/releases/11.2R/hardware.html

u/Hothabanero6 · 3 pointsr/Surface

Never seen a Surface like device with an Ethernet port. I doubt one exists. They are mobile devices so an Ethernet port is counter to it's primary function.

>absolute best (reliable & smallest) usb adapter for Ethernet?

Hard to say... reviews are scarce. There's this from 2013:
http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2415501,00.asp
Still a good choice and there are interesting options...
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B0095EFXMC/. 476 reviews 4.5 of 5

This from 2016 ... but 10/100??? Not fastest.
http://www.wirelesshack.org/our-picks-for-best-usb-to-ethernet-adapter.html
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00ET4KHJ2/ 804 reviews 4.3 of 5


Amazon popularity contest and products I have had good luck with
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00BBD7NFU/ 807 reviews 4.2 of 5

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PC0H9IE/ref=psdc_13983791_t3_B0095EFXMC 584 reviews 4.7 of 5

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00AQM8586/. 767 reviews 4.5 of 5


So maybe the Anker model however... would you want fries ports with that?

u/Ryvaeus · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

The Switch only supports LAN adapters that use a particular chipset. I have an Acer branded one which isn't recognized on the Switch, but one by Trendnet which is. I believe there's a list of supported adapters somewhere but I'm on mobile and lazy.

Edit: Adapters that use either the AX88772 (widely used, but slower than 802.11ac WiFi) or AX88179 (less common, but true gigabit speed) chipsets should work. According to the product page of this Plugable adapter, it should be compatible. Is this the one you bought?

u/Preclude · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Plugable USB 3.0 to Ethernet... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQM8586
This one is great. Bought two of them.

u/SpeedyBlueDude · 3 pointsr/smashbros

I have the exact same LAN Adapter it seems -

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQM8586/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Least I know that's good, and removes one of the issues. I'll buy a new Ethernet cable and see if that can be the quick fix.

u/crysal0 · 3 pointsr/EDC

m/96 cqc 2000 hmak Backpack (Military)

Camo rain poncho / mini tent (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07MQPJ6WZ/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1)

alsvik sitting pad (alsvik naturecenter norway)

3 home-made 1 store bought Cat5 cabels (Homemade)

cisco serial cabel w/ usb adapter (https://www.amazon.com/Cisco-72-3383-01-Console-Cable-RJ45-to-DB9/dp/B000GL3MOY)

Extension cabel 4 socket (Hardware store)

Ninja black hair ties (Everything store in town)

Ridge wallet alu (https://www.ridgewallet.com/)

2 wifi adapters (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anewish-433Mbps-Wireless-Supports-Black-Gold/dp/B01G77I46G/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_23_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=03C7FX31M2RK737GXZ99)

2 Power adapters for usb (Came with phone)

mix of USB A -> USB B/C/mini C (Came with phone)

Pens ("Borrowed" from work)

Sticky notes ("Borrowed" from work)

ID Card in card holder (Work)

Homekey / Keys to mix of server racks closets(https://www.replacementkeys.co.uk/utility/server-cabinets/)

USB with windows (https://www.microsoft.com/software-download/windows10)

Nail clippers (Everything store in town)

Ethernet adapter (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00BBD7NFU/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=cable+matters+ethernet+adapter&qid=1568050801&s=computers&sr=1-4)

Bicycle light front and back (Everything store in town)

Leather holster for knife (came with knife)

Leather holster for lockpick (came with lockpick set)

Utility knife ("Borrowed" from work)

Wire strippers/ wire clippers ("Borrowed" from work)

Flat head isolated screwdriver ("Borrowed" from work)

Lockpick set (https://www.amazon.co.uk/20-Piece-Lock-Transparent-LockCowboy-Locksmiths/dp/B01CHWIP32)

Really banged up knife that has seen better days (Christmas gift)

and last my phone that took this picture (Huawei p30 pro)

​

If you have any questions please ask them, I'll do my best to awnser

u/kwaleeb · 3 pointsr/sysadmin

This is what I currently use. It basically will switch from being an Ethernet adapter to being a read-only flash drive that has the driver on it if it detects the Ethernet adapter isn't being used or something along those lines. The adapter I linked is plugged into my dock and after I have my computer undocked for a while and I reconnect it, it must believe the drivers got uninstalled or something because it will switch from being an Ethernet adapter to being a USB drive in My Computer with the drivers. Immediately after you open the driver installer, it detects the drivers are already installed and switches back to being an Ethernet adapter.

I can deal with it, but end users won't be able to, so I'm looking for an adapter that doesn't do this. Problem is many sellers don't even advertise the specifics of this functionality, so I'm wondering if anyone has direct experience with one that doesn't have this

u/sliyk · 3 pointsr/PleX

Sure.

My tv is LG65B7V

the dongle I bought from Amazon is at the following link;

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00BBD7NFU/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_8?smid=A2HI77ZYQGGRR3&psc=1

​

Please keep in mind that I have also tried a usb 2.0 dongle which the TV didn't recognise, I randomly tried this 3.0 one (got the tip from the LG Wbos forums) and it really did the trick for me. I was going towards bashing-head-against wall frustration levels.

u/hityouwithmyswagbus · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Hey do you guys think this will work with the Switch?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BBD7NFU/ref=crt_ewc_title_gw_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1AMUYYA3CT6HJ

If not can you recommend one because the Nintendo one is hella expensive and the amazon one says it'll take 4-5 months.

u/pattymcfly · 3 pointsr/Dell

dell makes a usb to Ethernet dongle, and other type adapters can be found online for very cheap. https://amzn.com/B00BBD7NFU

u/King_benhamin · 3 pointsr/buildmeapc

I would avoid Wi-Fi as much as you can but sometimes it's necessary. I have tried the dongle (usb) only to have an unstable connection and for it to crap out after a couple of months. I had a mid range tp-link card and that failed after a year, and it never gave me super stable connections. The card linked below is the one I have and I've been very happy with it.

ASUS PCE-AC68 AC1900 Dual-Band Wireless Pci-E Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-M-kDbAPWQ5NS

u/CatPurrMeow · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

The R7000 is capable of 900Mbps+ WAN<>LAN.

u/croy_00 · 3 pointsr/theNvidiaShield

This is what I am running at home, and it works flawlessly. I own both the portable and the Shield, and use both with this router without issue.

I am also running a wireless PCE-AC68 card from my PC, instead of wired, but again have zero issues.

u/freakingwilly · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If you have the PCIE slot to spare, I highly recommend using that instead. You can get much better performance in both power and speed over the USB option. That being said, here are four recommendations based on your needs:

  1. USB, budget - BrosTrend, $26
  2. USB, performance - ASUS USB-AC68, $76
  3. PCIE, budget - TP-Link Archer T4E, $35
  4. PCIE, performance - ASUS PCE-AC68, $87

    Personally, I have the PCE-AC68 that I bought for $75 3 years ago and it's still rocking.
u/adanceparty · 3 pointsr/buildapc

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521657739&sr=8-2&keywords=asus+pce+ac88

I used this card when I was renting in someone's house, good card for the 6 months or so I used it. Moved somewhere else and went back to a wired connection, but it was the best card I tried.

u/houndazs · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I have the Asus AC68U Router paired with an Arris 6190 Modem. Blazing speeds ready for Gigabit internet. I'm a network engineer, and this is what i use.

Edit: I also game with this Asus PCIe WiFi Adapter

u/Onescorp · 3 pointsr/linuxhardware

This one works for me with no additional drivers, using Linux Mint Kernel 3.13.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JDVRCI0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/heebiejeebies_ferret · 3 pointsr/debian

This one's cheap and works great, no additional drivers required: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JDVRCI0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think it might be 2.4 ghz-only, though

u/duepointe · 3 pointsr/AndroidTV

You need to get the usb ethernet adapater with an Asix 88179 chip. This supports wake up from suspend.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Network-Adapter-Ethernet-1000Mbps/dp/B00LLUEJFU/

u/nexus4strife · 3 pointsr/AndroidTV

Lack of updates, no ethernet (had to buy a USB one since the WiFi was pretty unreliable), glitchy video and sound, crashes and freezes randomly, and a few other reasons i can't think of ATM.

u/ComfortableButtSocks · 3 pointsr/smashbros

Honestly, I was in the same boat. Great memories with Smash and my college roommates. Got online to hang out with them when we have time. As long as you don't take every hit seriously and enjoy it for the game, its alright. I use to get mad at the input lag and buttons not working, but I changed to basically play with my friends online (also get a Lan Adapter and tell your friends to as well) and you will have a lot of fun. You might even find another game you guys like to play as well, for us it's Mario Kart, don't drink and drive.

u/webculb · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Amazon Ethernet adapter I picked one of these up for a more stable connection in Splatoon. It's been working great so far.

u/JOEJOE_77 · 3 pointsr/smashbros

One of these bois into the usb port on the switch dock: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M77HMU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uFQZBbXNHJ30N

u/mrgermy · 3 pointsr/AndroidTV

I bought this one and it works for my Mi Box. I don't have the S though so I can't say for sure.

u/ButThouMust · 3 pointsr/wii

I play the GameCube version of Phantasy Star Online regularly, and the GC PSO community widely recommends this adapter for people who play it on a Wii. If you're curious, the Wii requires a particular chipset (ASIX AX88772 or AX88772A), and the adapter also works with my Switch.

u/ylerta · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Look into power line adapters paired with Ethernet adapter. I'm in a similar situation and this is my solution and it works perfectly. it's an expensive solution but you can use the power line adapter for PC's and other things in the basement. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eG39Bb73F41RT
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYT481C?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

edit: also note this is not an invasive option since you just plug in the power line adapters, then plug one side into your router and one into the Ethernet adapter

u/BaC0nz13 · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I bought this one back in June. It worked straight out of the box on my Switch.

u/TemptedTemplar · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

this one will work according to another user, Im sure 90% of USB 2.0 to ethernet adapters will work. but other users have had less success with USB 3.0 adapters. which wont really make a difference unless your connection is over 50mb/s.

u/napper906 · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Wrong. I ordered this one and it works like a charm.

u/6tennis · 3 pointsr/pokemon

The online play is alright, but because of the nature of the Wii U's wifi connection, it's nearly impossible to get good netplay without the use of a LAN adapter.
This is the one I use - it's cheap, and it's always been perfect for me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYT481C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you need a guide on how to get one set up, that exists too: http://www.pokkenarena.com/forums/topic/560-your-handy-guide-to-lan-adapters
Once you're all done with that, come to the Discord to get some friendlies, as you're not guaranteed to fight people with good connections on Ranked: discord.gg/pokken
Hope I could help!

u/LightningProd12 · 3 pointsr/pihole

It'd work but that adapter has a lot of bad reviews on Amazon. I'd suggest a more expensive (but properly working) adapter like this if you want extra (powered) USB ports, this if you don't need full-size USB ports, or this if you want a HAT instead.

u/graywolf0026 · 3 pointsr/Warframe

I can solve that problem with this. ... If you're on an android, at least.

u/Denmarkian · 3 pointsr/pihole

As far as I can tell there are no spec differences between the Zero and the Zero W except for the WiFi on the W. The processor, RAM, and other features are the same.

If you're not going to use the wireless then I'd put the extra $5 toward the Ethernet adapter.

I've bought a couple of this OTG Ethernet adapter and I've been happy with them. I use one with a Pi0 as my Pi-Hole.

u/WWWVVWWW · 3 pointsr/Windows10

Sounds like you want something like This

u/Anon10W1z · 3 pointsr/berkeley

You can use something like this that takes in a Wi-Fi connection and converts it to Ethernet

EDIT: This one doesn't support Enterprise :(

u/Remo_253 · 3 pointsr/htpc

You can use a simple ethernet to WiFi adapter like either of these from IoGear:

Ethernet to Wi-Fi N Adapter for Home or Office, GWU627

Ethernet-2-WiFi Universal Wireless Adapter, GWU637

u/Ieatveal · 3 pointsr/Scams

>PCGenius101

good on you for catching his attempt. That is freaking creepy. Even better you shared.

If you are getting slow speeds, you can fix it yourself. Run a wire to your router first and see if its an adapter(wireless) or if its something in windows. IF the wired connection is all good, then check with the manufacturer about an updated wifi driver. Or, just get a cheap usb wifi adapter and be done with it.

​

like this one https://smile.amazon.com/EDUP-ac600Mbps-Wireless-External-10-6-10-13/dp/B01CCMUN8C/ref=sr_1_3?

u/SuPeRCaLiFaGaLiCiOuS · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Yep as the other guy said, either get a motherboard with wifi built in, or get a simple USB adapter for wifi. Something like: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CCMUN8C/

u/sensei247 · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

This should be relatively simple (maybe 2 evenings of your time)

Materials (Amazon):

u/jfoodge · 2 pointsr/pcmods

+1 for PCI

I game and have never had problems connecting unless it was ISP side (boo comcast). I also stream Netflix and Amazon without any signal issues.

I use [this PCI-E adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN881ND-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1405104552&sr=8-2&keywords=tp-link+pci+wifi) with good results. They also make regular [PCI] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN751ND-Wireless-Adapter-Low-profile/dp/B005FUGPP4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1405104552&sr=8-4&keywords=tp-link+pci+wifi) depending on what you have available. I'm sure the Rosewill one is quite good too.

I also picked up something similar to [this] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-ANT2405C-Desktop-Omni-directional-Antenna/dp/B001VEAI74/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1405104686&sr=8-11&keywords=tp-link+antenna) to help with my signal, since my room is quite far from my router. It will give you some flexibility on your antenna placement, and gave me a huge boost in signal.

For your purposes either would probably work but I prefer having the cleaner look of a PCI card and I'm under the assumption that there is better power/bandwith going through PCI. If you do go with USB, I suggest something like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1405104921&sr=8-14&keywords=usb+wifi) where you can add on an optional antenna if you have signal issues.

u/MoDaBro · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Honestly, a range extender is not an ideal wireless solution for online gaming. Your N600 adapter is likely also a part of the problem that you have. If it is possible, your best option is to run a long ethernet cable to your router. If that is not possible, I would try getting a better wifi adapter for your pc. I would strongly recommend a pci adapter for a better connection. If you have to get a USB adapter, then at least get one with an external antenna. I currently have this usb adapter that works well enough for me. Some reviews say that they get connection drops but I had no problems with it so far. I play with ~50ms pings and rarely get ping spikes higher than 100ms. I guess that it wouldn't hurt to try to get a different router from Comcast. But again, a long ethernet cable is your best option.

u/xc0mr4de · 2 pointsr/buildapc

PCIE version and USB version cuz I was just wondering if generally pcie is faster better than usb one or the other way around.

u/pseudo_mccoy · 2 pointsr/Piratebox

pi zero - $5.00

pins - $8.95

wifi adapter* - $13.33

right angle USB ports - $5.64

USB battery - $3.99

micro-mini usb cable - $2.89

Total: $39.80

*I used an Alfa AWUSO36NH but the TP-LINK TL-WN722N should work. More information on compatible network adapters here.

The optional Illuminated LED shutdown switch makes this device easier to use but costs an additional $16.99


About

PirateBox software runs on inexpensive hardware to connect users over an offline wifi network. Join it and your browser redirects to a simple interface where you can share files, chat, and stream video.

Pifm is a small program you can install in a Raspberry Pi PirateBox, aka “pi(rate)box.” It can broadcast on FM radio to inform potential users about the PirateBox wifi network, play uploaded music, and with a USB microphone Pifm lets you talk live to your audience.

Improvements

The first version of this project was well received so I'm back to share design and documentation improvements. Pi(rate)FM Zero is now fully self contained. It turns on and off with a button press and can automatically broadcast information about the wifi network over empty FM stations at user defined intervals.

Why not use a car/smartphone FM trasmitter?

You totally could. It might even be better in some situations if you don't mind a slightly larger, more expensive device with an extra battery to charge. Keep in mind you'd lose the ability to live broadcast with a microphone or play audio directly from the PirateBox.

Going forward

In my next version I'd like to improve the PirateBox interface and make a way for users to rate playlists while having Pifm automatically play the highest ranked tracks. Users could upload music and vote on which tracks gets played. It'd be your own personal short range interactive digital-analog radio station hosted on a private intranet.

Bonus**

Here's a .img file for your convenience. Just install it to an SD card (at least 4 gb) and run it in a Pi Zero to get started. Note: auto broadcast on FM isn't enabled by default so you'll need to add a cronjob as detailed in the guide if you want to activate this feature.

u/Omneus · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Be aware that using that 60 Hz monitor, you won't benefit from >60 fps which you might get using a 1070 at 1440p (obviously depending on the game).

This is the wireless adapter I use, great:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG

u/ELS · 2 pointsr/3DS

Thanks for the guide! I used it to set up Homepass on Windows 10 with the TL-WN722N tonight. I had to disable my MAC filter on my router's 2.4 GHz band before it would work (in retrospect, this is obvious since the MAC address of the wireless adapter is cycling through the entries BASE256.txt).

I'm not sure how current the list in BASE256.txt is; after getting 10-20 streetpasses within an hour, I got only one in three hours.

u/JokerSlayer65 · 2 pointsr/buildmeapc

I ordered a tp link wireless adapter on Amazon that can handle up to 150mb/s you just plug it into your motherboards USB port. [Here's a link.] (TP-Link N150 Wireless High Gain USB Adapter (TL-WN722N), Version 2.0 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SZEOLG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf)



u/specialko89 · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

The 150mbps, when I bought it it was just under $20 and the other one was around $40 I think. The other one isn't the 300mbps it's the AC600. They both look the same and with an antenna, just one has higher bandwidth and can use 5ghz network, the 150 is only 2.4 ghz compatible.

Now you can get the AC600 for under $20, good deal.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N-Version/dp/B002SZEOLG?th=1

u/mhero94 · 2 pointsr/wifi

Wow, i feel like we are issue twins :D * excuse the humor *

I had exactly similer issue 6 monthes ago wifi was highly capped on my laptob at around 4 - 7 mb/s while my other devices are 40 - 50 mb/s

anyhow for me at least it was internal card issue maybe weaken over time or something,

another reason for you maybe that your intenal card is forced to use 802.1g/b please check next time you in hotel which gives you terrible bandwidth options ( go to task mamanger - > Performance tab - > wifi -> look for connection type ) .

MY SOLUTION :

i bought 2 cheap USB adapters : TP link's Wn722n and Wn823n each 24 $ or something

and Ta da, my speed was up to roof back to normal range of other devices (using the antenna based wn722n right now), i dont really suggest it unless u dont mind the size but overall i had better range with it than with wn823n, please hence both are single band 2.4 .
Links :

wn823n : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0088TKTY2/

wn722n : https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN722N-Wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B002SZEOLG

if money aint a big issue i still suggest the Alfa dual long range because its state of art and long term usage friendly and when you get bored of it easy sell used .

u/PM_ME_YOUR_JDM_CAR · 2 pointsr/HowToHack

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B002SZEOLG/

Another option for you if money is tight, it should be the n150 option. I own this and it works out of the box with kali via live usb and also works in windows10.

u/nakedspacecowboy · 2 pointsr/Kali_Linux_Essentials

Were you able to connect before using macchanger? If not, it's not a Kali or macchanger thing, it's a visualization thing. VMs don't not have direct access to host hardware, the guest OS is separated from the host by a hypervisor.

If you already know this, I'm not trying to sound condescending. It's just a common question on here. I've gotten a bridged adapter to recognize my wifi as a wired connection before, but I can't remember how I did it. Maybe I am remembering incorrectly. Google around if you want, but it's infinitely easier to get a USB adapter or use a wired connection. I use this one:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG

There are better ones out there and people on this sub will usually recommend a better one, can't remember which one. Anyway, you'll want one capable of packet injection.

u/Cool-Beaner · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

> edimax wifi dongle... Is the performance of this dongle better than the onboard wifi?

It might work better. I wouldn't expect it to be that much better, but try it and see.

Simply, WiFi is slower than hardwired Ethernet.
On top of that, you are using the Pi 3 or the Edimax for WiFi, which have the same problem. They are tiny receivers and transmitters using a tiny antenna. I have had a lot more luck getting decent WiFi speeds out of an access port, or using something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_23

NOTE: I haven't tried the TP-Link WN722N on a Pi. I don't know if it works.

u/PM-ME-YOUR-UNDERARMS · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

yikes. I barely touch -80dBm
The link you posted seems kinda expensive for something that may not work in my case.
Will this antenna and this adapter work?

u/ZeroHex · 2 pointsr/worldnews

You mean one of these?

The wifi range on that is about 820 ft, less than the depth of the ocean in the area the plane went down. The structure of the black box would probably inhibit that signal somewhat, and the water even more so (yay thermoclines). Even then that doesn't really help us much because if you're within the wifi range in the area where it's most useful (on land) then you can probably already see the crash site pretty easily.

And hey, guess what? They already have multiple black boxes on planes. You can't really guarantee that floating would help them though, because they're just as likely to get trapped under wreckage as anything else that floats. These black boxes also give off a radio signal that can be tracked, although as we saw with the Malaysia Airlines flight this also has its limitations.

u/MGC3 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I've used the TP-link Wireless Adapter before and it's been pretty reliable and cheap. Lasted me through two different builds before I decided to upgrade. I linked the usb version but they have a PCIe version as well.

If you have a nicer router with features like dual band, AC, etc. then consider saving up for a nicer high end wireless adapter to take advantage of higher speeds. I'm currently using the Asus USB N53 and it's been reliable too.

u/RatherNott · 2 pointsr/linuxhardware

Sorry for the late response Devinmaking, I looked over that motherboard, and as far as I can tell, it should run Linux without issue. It has an older audio codec (Realtek ALC887), so any recent kernel will support it. It also has an Intel LAN chip, which are known for having excellent support in Linux.

As for Wifi, most any Intel or Atheros based card will work without issue. However some Realtek and Broadcom based Wifi cards can a hassle to set up, or not be supported at all.

AFAIK, both the TP-Link TL-WN722N and Panda 300Mbps Wireless N USB Adapter are supported by most distros.

As for using a spare router as a repeater, I haven't ever done that myself, but I think you'll have to make sure the spare router is as fast as your other equipment, otherwise it will limit the speed by being the weakest link in the chain. So for instance if it's only a Wireless G router, and your other equipment is faster Wireless N stuff, you'll only run at the slower G speeds. If your internet connection is slower than the rated Wireless G speeds anyway, then none of that matters. :)

Anyway, hope that helps. \^_^

u/sillyinches · 2 pointsr/HowToHack

i like this one. external antenna capable, supports any mode you could need, dirt cheap and prime'able.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG

u/akz007 · 2 pointsr/IndianGaming

Personally using a tp link one (one with an Antena. 600rs.).
It worked with no issues. Having a 50mbps connection. No drops in speeds, coverage and no latency problems either.

TP-Link TL-WN722N 150Mbps Wireless USB Adapter https://www.amazon.in/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-DFODb4AAY6MZ

u/triscious · 2 pointsr/HowToHack

I've used the TP Link TL-WN722N a lot with good results and have bought a couple of them; however, the price seems to be going up for some reason so I'm not sure if it's as great of a deal.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505216714&sr=8-1&keywords=tp+link+tlwn722n

u/mrstejdm · 2 pointsr/linuxquestions

As someone who had a hell of a time with Wireless Adaptors under linux I can safely say that I finally have one that just works. The TP-Link TL-WN77N works on Ubuntu 13.04 without issue. Plug and play, it also supports Windows 2000+ (Win8 is in beta but works fine).

http://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-TL-WN722N-150Mbps-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377603967&sr=8-1&keywords=tp+link+tl+wn722n



u/Mikedownbytheriver · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

I have a sliding door partition to separate the driving area from the rear. I'm able to VHB tape my Outdoor Antenna to my immediate right of my drivers side head rest looking straight out the window. Works great. If you have time warner cable in your area you'll be able to bum a friends or family login information and pickup hotspots all across the city.


I have the outdoor antenna wired from the front running to the rear by attaching a N Male to RP-SMA cable -----> high gain usb wifi adapter N150 works fine ------> using a usb extension cable connect laptop.



Also if you wanted to connect multiple devices you would want to look into hooking up a repeater to your external antenna. I was thinking about building a raspberry pie with a miniature lcd + connected to a router programmed for a repeater. I would be able to connect / program different wifi networks on the fly.....however my setup above works fine for me.

u/jpierini · 2 pointsr/hacking

I have had great results with this card:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SZEOLG

u/mattbuford · 2 pointsr/Chromecast

You are correct. In my experience, this is generally not a problem. The hotel is probably giving you a slower uplink anyway. Or, even if you're not getting max speed, you're getting plenty to watch Netflix easily.

I'm not aware of a native two-radio travel router. However, being that I am a network engineer and interested in this kind of thing, I eventually ended up looking for a dual radio solution just to see if I could make it work. If nothing else, at least this gets my LAN traffic off the same frequency as the other nearby hotel guests on my same hotel AP.

I started with a Ravpower Filehub that I already had. I was going to link you to the Amazon page for it, but it appears they have reused the same page to sell a new version of the device that doesn't look like mine and I don't know if it can be used in the same way. The one I have looks like this:

http://www.getdatgadget.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/RAVPower-All-In-One-FileHub-3.jpg

That travel router is nice because it has a built in USB battery bank. That can be nice when you're trying to find the magic spot in the hotel where wifi is strong enough. I find the best positioning without cables, then plug it in.

I installed OpenWRT on it and went looking for a USB wifi radio to add on. OpenWRT has limited support for USB wifi radios, and in fact I couldn't find anything 802.11ac. I eventually found this dual-band N adapter, which is supported:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SZEOLG

This gives me a true two-radio solution. The USB radio is dual-band and the internal radio is 2.4 only. OpenWRT isn't a super user-friendly solution, but it works for me. For example, it is up to me manually to set the LAN/AP channel to make sure it isn't simply sitting on the same channel as the WAN/client radio.

I have used this in a number of hotels (I travel a lot) and it works well with my Chromecast. This gets me past the captive portals on the Chromecast, and also on devices that are technically captive portal capable but annoying (like the Kindle). One login on any device is all it takes for all of my devices, no matter how many or which ones I bring.

I've even used it in a hotel with 128 kbps Internet that was too slow to stream. I was able to use Plex on my laptop to stream local content across the travel router's LAN to the Chromecast. The slow Internet WAN wasn't enough to stream on, but it was enough for the Chromecast to load apps and consider itself connected to the net.

One caveat: Some hotels limit the max speed of each client. If you log into their network with your phone and laptop as different clients, they each get a share. If you use a travel router, they both have to share a single client's allocation.

Random other advice: You know how streaming sticks often come with a short 3-inch or so HDMI extension cable? Use it. One of the hotel TV HDMI ports destroyed my Chromecast's HDMI connector (it actually pushed one of the pins on the Chromecast's HDMI connector back), and it would have been better if it had just destroyed the HDMI extension cable.

u/qrv3w · 2 pointsr/coolgithubprojects

The overhead is not too bad. You can use any normal power supply for a Pi, and then buy a $13 WiFi adapter with monitor mode like this. If you are using Raspberry Pi 3, which have builtin regular WiFi for the communication, then each node costs ~$60. This is less than half the price of the similar dedicated hardware out there.

I think you should ideally have N-1 Pis, where N is the number of rooms you want to learn. With smart placement you can probably get by for less. I haven't tried Pi Zeros, but they should be able to be used as well, since this is not too CPU intensive.

u/PissyPoops · 2 pointsr/HowToHack

This is what I use. Pretty good range and the chipset jives with Linux.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002SZEOLG/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Flying_Spaghetti_ · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

This is what you want $15 and you are good to go. That is unless you have faster than 150mbps internet.

u/astrobyzantium · 2 pointsr/Philippines

Agreeing with buying it all in one go.

The parts used above is very similar to my build, but I bought the parts at EasyPC North Avenue, except for the SSD and wireless network card which I bought at Octagon SM North EDSA, and the monitor which I bought at PC Express Makati Cinema Square. Take note that Dynaquest Philippines doesn't include the 12% VAT amount in the item's display price.

Type | Item | Price at Purchase
---------|----------|----------
CPU | [Intel Pentium G4560 3.5Ghz Kabylake] (https://tipidpc.com/viewitem.php?iid=40997798) | ₱ 2995.00
Motherboard | [MSI B250M Pro VDH] (https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/B250M-PRO-VDH.html#productFeature-section) | ₱ 4400.00
Memory | [Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 8GB 2400 DDR4 1x8GB Red] (https://tipidpc.com/viewitem.php?iid=40996584) | ₱ 3350.00
Storage (SSD) | [WD Green PC SSD 240 GB] (https://www.wdc.com/products/solid-state-drives/wd-green-ssd.html#WDS240G1G0A) | ₱ 4000.00
Storage (HDD) | [Western Digital 1TB Caviar Blue , SATA III] (https://tipidpc.com/viewitem.php?iid=40994388) | ₱ 2400.00
Video Card | [Zotac GTX1050Ti Mini Single Fan 4gb-128bit DDR5] (https://tipidpc.com/viewitem.php?iid=40998316) | ₱ 7150.00
Case | [EasyPC Rakk Phantom X White-Black] (https://tipidpc.com/viewitem.php?iid=40993820) | ₱ 650.00
Power Supply | [Corsair VS450 APFC, 450watts] (https://tipidpc.com/viewitem.php?iid=40997483) | ₱ 1650.00
Monitor | [Philips 227E7QDSB/71 21.5 inches LED IPS] (http://www.philips.com.ph/c-p/227E7QDSB_71/lcd-monitor/specifications) | ₱ 6100.00
Keyboard and Mouse combo | [Rapoo NX1700 Optical Mouse and Spill Resistant Keyboard] (https://tipidpc.com/viewitem.php?iid=40994811) | ₱ 370.00
Wireless Network Card | [TP-Link N150 Wireless PCI-Express Adapter (TL-WN781ND)] (https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Adapter-TL-WN781ND/dp/B0036AFAEW/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1496570183&sr=1-1&keywords=WN781ND) | ₱ 650.00
Assembly fee | Assembly fee | ₱ 100.00
| TOTAL: | ₱ 33815.00

You can try out some builds using pcpartpicker.com, however, prices there don't reflect actual prices in the Philippines. My build can be seen here: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/tqhR9W

u/SloppyCandy · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Buy a new wireless card. Here is a cheap one:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Adapter-TL-WN781ND/dp/B0036AFAEW/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_lp_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZG31YN21PDS12QZSKX6M
Here is a nicer one (may be unnecessary):
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Express-Adapter-TL-WDN4800/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498623987&sr=8-2&keywords=pcie+wireless


New GPU will be the biggest improvement. 1050 Ti is a quick and easy upgrade generally ($150).

SSD for OS wouldn't hurt.

Up to 16G ram if you are feeling like a boss.

u/billyc74 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

yo, you don't need a Z97 chipset motherboard. this H81 chipset will perform exactly the same and is £30 less.

Also, you want an internal PCIe wifi adapter, 1. because it's faster, 2. you're not using up one of your USB ports. this one will do the trick.

u/Simmo1404 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

A card like this would fit in the small white slot to the left (below) the x16 slot, but I don't know what the difference this has on WiFi cards. The amazon card advertises 150Mbit though. This would allow you to have both GPU and WiFi cards simultaneously.

Edit: Though I want to reiterate that the 2500 is far more expensive than the ever-so-slightly worse 2400, and the same price as the better 3450. Get one of these two.

u/tartantangents · 2 pointsr/hackintosh

Chances are, any USB WiFi adapter you get will have a MediaTek (formerly Ralink) or Realtek chipset. Both of these companies publish OS X drivers, which work under Yosemite. Before you buy an adapter, check what chipset it has at [WikiDevi](http://www.wikidevi.com] and cross-reference with the drivers from MediaTek or Realtek's site.

FYI, USB WiFi adapters won't integrate with OS X's network picker, so you'll have to load a utility every time your computer boots in order to connect. Personally, that's enough to push me towards a PCIe card. I use an $15 TP-Link WN881ND that works with just a small modification to IONetworkingFamily. The commonly recommended card is the $36 TP-Link WDN4800, which is plug and play without any modifications.

u/cowboybilocas · 2 pointsr/battlestations

This one. It's pretty much the cheapest thing TP-LINK makes but I really only need internet access for now (no data transfer within home network) and this was enough for by internet speed and cheaper than a long cable/powerline solution.

u/furgar · 2 pointsr/techsupport

This one has a really good rating for a PCI card

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0055TNERM/ref=aw_1st_sims_1?pi=SY115

This one has a better rating but is PCI Express

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0036AFAEW/ref=aw_1st_sims_2?pi=SY115

My recommendations are based off of the reviews on amazon and not from personal experience. They are also both not expensive.

u/Kirby6365 · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

Definitely don't try just add random amounts of cat5/6 to your antenna. That won't work.

Here's a monoprice USB extender. Not sure how good it is, but it's pretty cheap:
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Extender-CAT5E-Connection-150ft/dp/B003L14ZTC

Do you actually have a separate Ethernet jack you can use for this? Also, not sure if wyzesense supports multiple instances of the device at once?

u/skylartaylor · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

I've not tried it personally, but a person used ser2net & socat to share a USB device (in their case a z wave hub) over IP to their home assistant instance. They wrote an article about it here:

https://blog.paul-steele.com/tech/2018/12/25/homeassistant-kubernetes-zwave-oh-my.html

Of course, this requires another device which may be more of a pain than a USB extender.

There are also USB over Ethernet adapter which would let you run much further: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Extender-CAT5E-Connection-150ft/dp/B003L14ZTC

u/dysfunkshun · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Perfectly! Put an RJ45 on each end, then there's a transmitter and receiver. I plug one end into my nvidia shield or vivopc, other end by the TV with wireless dongle and presto! This is the ones I use, I have 2 and haven't had a problem with them at all:

Monoprice USB Extender over CAT5E or CAT6 Connection up to 150ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L14ZTC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_uWKuxbTAWFAYG

u/heroin1994 · 2 pointsr/CableManagement

Im talking about these

Yeah my mistake, its not adapter, its an extender

u/chronop · 2 pointsr/techsupport

The USB standard doesn't support enough cable length to make this work, but Ethernet definitely does. You could run Ethernet drops (Cat6 preferred) between the locations, and then use a set of USB over Ethernet adapters to make the connections, like this

This is probably your best option, you do have others such as using your network to create RTMP streams or using a WiFi bridge with the adapters I mentioned but you will get lower latency and better performance if you can use Ethernet.

u/Arm-the-homeless · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Eh, not really.

This device requires ethernet, right?

http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET30DP-10-Inch-Extender-Cables/dp/B003LZA95W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1421190159&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+over+cat6&pebp=1421190255020&peasin=B003LZA95W#productDetails

Most modern graphics cards have at least 2 outputs, and there are cheap converters between dvi>hdmi or displayport>hdmi

Oh, for the USB...
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Extender-CAT5E-Connection-150ft/dp/B003L14ZTC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421190187&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+over+cat6&pebp=1421190545439&peasin=B003L14ZTC

Use a logitech wireless kb/mouse combo with the unified receiver and that takes care of kb/mouse. You could use a cheap hub if you wanted to use a game controller. Signal degradation (or rather ACK timeouts) only really cause problems when you're trying to transmit data like with an external HD, for simple HID you'd be surprised how long of a cable you can use.

If you've got to run ethernet to the TV, it's no more trouble to run 3 wires instead of 1. If you're doing it the right way instead of the halfassed way, it's still going to require cutting a hole in drywall to hide the wires. Cat5e/Cat6 cable is cheap as dirt anyway. No lag from streaming and this is the same price or cheaper.

I guess if you wanted to do this with multiple screens in different rooms it might make sense, but otherwise I don't see much point.

u/LittleHelperRobot · 2 pointsr/htpc

Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L14ZTC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1426986198&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+ethernet+extender&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

u/throwaway_for_keeps · 2 pointsr/techtheatre

Would something like this work in conjunction with a VGA cable?

We already have Ethernet cable and vga cable, and it would seem we'd still have to extend a proper KVM box somehow.

u/LoganRan · 2 pointsr/htpc

I just purchased some of these to do the same thing in my master bedroom and the living room. So going to my tv is 1 long HDMI cable (about 50ft) and a Cat 5e cable. So far they are working well. Also I did buy that exact same USB Hub for the TV end of the connection.

USB can go 15m from what i remember.

https://amzn.com/B003L14ZTC

u/distractionfactory · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

As ePaperWeight mentioned, your shopping list would have a lot to do with what you plan on doing with it.

Keep in mind that the Pi Zero is very cheap partly because it does not have nearly as many ports as a full size Pi. It also has a less capable CPU than a full Pi 3. That being said, it's still impressive that its CPU and RAM are in line with older Pis that were used in all sorts of projects.

The lack of ports means that if you want to connect to USB, HDMI, Ethernet, or Wifi you will need adapters.

For the bare minimum for getting started I would suggest the items included in this kit (not necessarily suggesting the kit itself, these are all standard parts):
https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Zero-Starter-Kit/dp/B01N3XNPAM/ref=sr_1_1

u/ResidentCollar · 2 pointsr/linuxmasterrace

I get the "trying to make it work" and all...

But honestly? Just buy another wifi adapter.

You can get them for like $7US, shipped to you in 2 days: https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY

u/wully616 · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Thanks for the all the interest guys! Wasn't expecting this sort of response.
I'll give you all some details on the build so far.

To confirm this isn't for taking onto a flight! The type of case is called flight case.

The case is a flightcase with a foam inlay. The foam has since been ripped out.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/flight-case-with-foam-n70ap

A compact but easy to use wireless keyboard + mouse.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/maplin-mini-wireless-deskset-n69jx

The screen is a 10.1 LCD screen with a 12V LCD controller I got off ebay.
http://www.66ino.com/index.php/raspberry-pi-10-1-tft-lcd-display-module-1280x800-hdmi-vga-av-controller-cable.html

The battery is a 12V 5000mAH NiMH battery pack:
http://www.componentshop.co.uk/12v-5000mah-sc-nimh-compact-battery-pack.html

A USB powered 7 port USB hub from the pi hut to power the Rpi
http://thepihut.com/products/7-port-usb-hub-for-the-raspberry-pi

A 5V UBEC (Universal Battery Elimination Circuit) for stepping down the 12V battery to a constant 5V to power the USB powered hub. You can't see the UBEC in the image, its under the LCD Controller.
http://www.hobbywing.com/product_show.asp?id=209

An Edimax EW-7811UN 150Mbps Wireless Nano USB Adapter
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Edimax-EW-7811UN-150Mbps-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B003MTTJOY/

There are some other minor things like a power switch for the battery. A port for plugging in a 12V DC jack to charge the battery or power the system completely without the battery.
There is also an extension for the ethernet port.

My girlfriend is helping with designing a internal frame/case for the components in the bottom and a mount for the LCD screen. This will probably be in perspex plastic, with an inlay for the keyboard to sit in.


u/Unebrion · 2 pointsr/techsupport

So it looks like Dell does not have win 10 drivers for that model. If I had to guess its some type of wireless driver issue. You could buy one of those usb wifi adapters for home use, they are pretty cheap

Maybe get one of those and test at home. Its a head scratcher right now since it works on campus but not at home

u/StealthRogue · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

> 16gb of ram if it fits in the budget

16GB is very unnecessary if you are only planning to do gaming. 16GB is useful for video editing, video editing, etc. Also, you will have to spend an additional $100 for 16gb because RAM prices are off the roof atm.

 

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | $193.44 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard | $56.98 @ Newegg
Memory | Team - Elite Plus 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $88.99 @ Newegg
Storage | SanDisk - SSD PLUS 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $54.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $41.77 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 3GB SC GAMING Video Card | $189.99 @ B&H
Case | Phanteks - ECLIPSE P400 TEMPERED GLASS ATX Mid Tower Case | $59.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA - BQ 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $39.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $756.14
| Mail-in rebates | -$30.00
| Total | $726.14
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-11-16 17:39 EST-0500 |

 

This build has a lot of upgradability in the future. I would suggest upgrading the GPU and then the RAM in the future if you want to keep this build.

Edit: forgot your [wifi card] (https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B003MTTJOY) here you go [:)] (https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B003MTTJOY)

u/Prolite9 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I personally don't think you can wrong with any choice of adapter. I purchased two and I've had good results with both (first 2):

TP-Link @ $15

Media Link @ $20

Edimax @ $10.. more concealed for a laptop

Again, can't say specifically on which I prefer... they're all great. Check the reviews though, they're insightful!

u/astrobase_go · 2 pointsr/privacy

an alternative to consider may be an actual laptop, maybe a refurb you can find cheaply, from which you physically remove the wireless NIC. if you wanted to connect to a wireless network, you could simply plug in a usb wifi adapter. there are some adapters, like this one, that boast native support for linux boxes. the advantage here is that a cheap refurb would have the horsepower to handle everything you wanted to do, as well as providing 100% certainty that it isn't transmitting any data since the adapter's physical presence in a usb port is required.

just be sure to look for a device with easy access to the nic (ymmv).

u/jpaek1 · 2 pointsr/linuxmint

just my opinion on this - pay $15 or so and get a USB wifi that works in both Linux and Windows. Less time spent on a frustrating issue - wifi on Linux.

http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY?ie=UTF8&keywords=usb%20wifi%20adapter&qid=1464277887&ref_=sr_1_4&s=pc&sr=1-4

u/SirBaronVonDoozle · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

This dongle is less than 10 bucks, 3/4th of this things size is the usb adaptor, and it can pull in 150Mbps

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_1stExbDBVS47F


Don't get my wrong 70Mbps is great, but it's by no means pushing technology or hard to acquire

u/7U5K3N · 2 pointsr/Ubuntu

I have several of these floating around works in everything I've thrown it in.

Edimax EW-7811Un 150Mbps 11n Wi-Fi USB Adapter, Nano Size Lets You Plug it and Forget it, Ideal for Raspberry Pi / Pi2, Supports Windows, Mac OS, Linux (Black/Gold) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kutExb2MV5KDY

u/ill_advised_starches · 2 pointsr/openbsd

Sorry, I'm not familiar with debugging drivers. Quick google reveals it might involve turning debug mode on with ifconfig, running /etc/netstart and viewing more verbose dmesg resulting from debug mode. See ifconfig (8):

http://man.openbsd.org/OpenBSD-current/man8/ifconfig.8

Two USB adapters I've had success with using OpenBSD 5.9:

USB-ethernet (axe driver):

http://www.apple.com/shop/product/MC704LL/A/apple-usb-ethernet-adapter

USB-wireless (urtwn driver):

https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY

u/wiiv · 2 pointsr/buildapc

SSDs and HDDs do the exact same thing : store data.

Regular HDDs store data on platters that rotate (think a record player) and can be noisy, hot, and slow. SSDs store data on a chip (think a flash drive), and can be expensive.

They both have pretty important benefits, though : SSDs are really fast, and HDDs can store a lot more data for your dollar.

To put it in perspective, lets say you have $125 to buy a hard drive, you can get an SSD that will hold about 250GB, or a HDD that will hold about 3000GB for the same money.

As far as Wi-fi, most motherboards don't have wi-fi built in, so if you aren't near your router and/or don't want to run a cable from the router, you will need to buy a wi-fi adapter. Even decent wi-fi adapters are pretty cheap - I have this one from amazon and it works great and is nine bucks:

http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-Adapter-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/

u/Chris_10LA · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I have not thought of that, but it is certainly interesting.

How would you connect your wifi adapter to said antenna? I typically use this Edimax one, do you open it up to solder a uFL connector on? I like the idea, but I'm not sure how to standardize the connector/ antenna for all the potential wifi adapters people use.

u/intrglctcrevfnk · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Yep! So used to seeing zero w's on here.

I had a regular zero first, then got a zero w. Here is the wifi module to get:
Edimax EW-7811Un 150Mbps 11n Wi-Fi USB Adapter,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_djPdzb5P8FP7A

Plug and play. I had initially gotten an edimax with wifi and Bluetooth which was not plug n play. I did eventually get it all set up but it was a pain as it took internet to install an internet device! (Had to download some stuff from github to get it to work)

Short story- I still have that edimax dongle I linked, so I asked my sister in law who lives near a micro center to pick me up a pi zero and a pi zero w. She mailed them today and I'll have them Monday for MSRP!! So that will make 8 pi's so far....... but my last plain zero most likely.

Edit: by plug and play I do mean that you'll still need an micro USB-> regular USB adapter. Those are plentiful out there.

u/geoffmcc · 2 pointsr/Ubuntu

From what I am seeing it uses broadcom, so I would think it would work. I would check drivers and see if you just have to enable 3rd party driver.

Have you tried to run off cd/USB in live mode to see if it works there?

Edit: you could also get this for $8 and it will work. I use on my Raspberry Pi running Raspbian. Just have to plug it in, so should be same with Ubuntu. Only thing is monitor mode not available (if you need)

u/Titiy_Swag · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I would add 2gb more RAM, then upgrade the cpu to this, and finally put in this. For the WiFi receiver I use this for LANs because it's easier than bringing a cable, but it works, not much you can want.

u/wombat2combat · 2 pointsr/DarkNetMarketsNoobs

yeah here are some wifi and ethernet adapters that work with tails [according to https://www.reddit.com/r/tailswiki/wiki/index/tails-compatible-devices ]:

USB WiFi adapters

https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Wireless-Adapter-Dongle/dp/B00GFAN498/

https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/

USB Ethernet adapters

http://plugable.com/products/usb3-e1000

http://plugable.com/products/usb3-hub3me

or you could also just plug in an ethernet cable [instead of using the wlan], which should work too.

u/silveira · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

I have one very similar to this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY
There are other brands and they range from $6 to $14. You just plug them in a USB and it just works. I have one that I use to pair with a Wii U Pro Controller.

Compared with everything else you buy to build a pc, it's a great inexpensive addon.

u/sovereign007 · 2 pointsr/eGPU

Only if you can find someone to test it for you. The connector itself is identical, as you said. The documentation for the laptop might have more information. That said, your wifi slot supports mPCIe, so you can just replace your Wifi card with the eGPU connector. To solve the loss of Wifi connectivity, just use a "nano" Wifi USB stick kept constantly plugged into one of your USB slots: Something like this.

u/QwertzHz · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Do you know if this would work? Looks fantastic and cheap.

u/Sambuscus0 · 2 pointsr/computers

Not a problem, glad I could help. I use this one. It's super easy to use and works great, just plug and connect. I've had no issues after a year.

u/skibo_ · 2 pointsr/xbmc

Very. You just have to burn Raspbmc or OpenElec (different XBMC distributions for the Pi) to the SD card, plug in a wifi dongle (I use this one), boot the thing up, and everything just works.

u/5k3k73k · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

ROBO 3D R1+ $799

Raspberry Pi 2 $38

WiFi adapter $10

Color touchscreen + case $50

Power supply $10

32GB SD Card $13

OctoPrint $0

Large build volume, heated glass bed, self leveling, wireless 3D printer $920



u/Mephisterson · 2 pointsr/DIY_tech

Good article here

http://www.howtogeek.com/139433/how-to-turn-a-raspberry-pi-into-a-low-power-network-storage-device/

Also for the wireless bit, if you don't have an edimax adaptor they work great in the pi 2. Last I checked, these were $10 on Amazon.

Edimax EW-7811Un 150Mbps 11n Wi-Fi USB Adapter, Nano Size Lets You Plug it and Forget it, Ideal for Raspberry Pi / Pi2, Supports Windows, Mac OS, Linux (Black/Gold) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_gdC7wbG7BT0JA

u/psychephylax · 2 pointsr/synology

I tested 3 different wireless adapters in my 918+:

  • Asus USB-N10 (Did not work)
  • Rosewill RNWD-N1501UB (Did not work)
  • Edimax EW-7811Un (Works)

    ​

    Here's the output of "lsusb":



    |__usb1 1d6b:0002:0404 09 2.00 480MBit/s 0mA 1IF (Linux 4.4.59+ xhci-hcd xHCI Host Controller 0000:00:15.0) hub

    |__1-1 051d:0003:0106 00 2.00 12MBit/s 2mA 1IF (American Power Conversion Smart-UPS 750 FW:UPS 08.3 / ID=18 AS1237224726 )

    |__1-3 7392:7811:0200 00 2.00 480MBit/s 500mA 1IF (Realtek 802.11n WLAN Adapter 00e04c000001)

    |__1-4 f400:f400:0100 00 2.00 480MBit/s 200mA 1IF (Synology DiskStation 7F008A5818DA5A76)

    |__usb2 1d6b:0003:0404 09 3.00 5000MBit/s 0mA 1IF (Linux 4.4.59+ xhci-hcd xHCI Host Controller 0000:00:15.0) hub

    ​

    Under the hood it shows up as wlan0 but it doesn't show up in "Network Interfaces" of Control Panel. This may limit some of the DSM-specific overlay UI settings but as far as I see it's another network interfaces at the OS level.
u/thelonegunmen84 · 2 pointsr/baltimore

Id hate to see you spend money on something that can be fixed/replaced minimally. Chances are the issues might be related where your overheating laptop is causing the internal nic to fry. I would try and get a can of air and spray the vents to see if you have any dust build up, causing the fans to work double time.
Instead of trying to replace the internal wifi, simply buy a usb
Edimax EW-7811Un 150Mbps 11n Wi-Fi USB Adapter, Nano Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_KpTOub0T0EY4M

u/ezramoore · 2 pointsr/techsupport

EDIT: I just followed your links, sounds like you are already looking at USB adapters and not internal cards. Sorry.

I like these: http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419545144&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+wifi

Better make sure that model doesn't use a hardware whitelist for the WiFi/BT card. I'm pretty sure it does.

If so, you will need to either modify the BIOS (risky) or modify the firmware on your new wireless card (also risky).

I'd recommend a tiny USB wireless adapter.

u/Chainmail_Danno · 2 pointsr/santashelpers

I don't know what Pi kit you're getting, but make sure that the charger is giving it the proper juice. You may also want a powered USB hub for peripherals such as a mouse, keyboard, etc. A small WiFi adapter and camera module can also come in handy.

I really like my Leatherman Squirt. It fits on the keychain that I carry every day. I also want to add this small flashlight. If you're into DIY, you might find Instamorph useful.

u/e39 · 2 pointsr/RetroPie

There's a variety of ways to do this this:

  1. Get a USB to Micro USB adapter
  2. Get a wifi (or wifi + bt) adapter

    Or ...

    Get a Raspberry Pi 0W with on-board wifi and bluetooth.
u/standoff · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I would think it is pretty easy.

I have a link for getting hostapd going on a specific wifi dongle on the cheap.

Amazon

HostADP instructions

I currently have this set up as a tor onion router for me. So I can verify that it is acting as a hotspot. I would guess it would be as easy as just having one with stored credentials and one with broadcast.

Should work. Raspbian btw.

u/reol7x · 2 pointsr/techsupport

As the other poster said, the Edimax USB wifi is probably your best bet. I've got one on a raspberry pi and it works well enough.

$8.99 USD on amazon.com
http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY

$14.49 CA on amazon.ca
http://www.amazon.ca/Edimax-Wireless-Adapter-Wizard-EW-7811Un/dp/B003MTTJOY

EDIT: fixed links

u/SoCo_cpp · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I've got one of these Edimax mini USB Wifi's and it works real good. It is showing < $10 and if you look at the "Other Sellers on Amazon" to the right, you will see several listed for < $10 with free shipping. This little guy works great. His antenna is obviously small, so the range isn't ideal for all situations. I personally was quite surprised at the range and never noticed the lack of a full antenna in my use of it. Your perspective may vary.

This other product has an actual antenna and is ~$5 with free shipping all day long. I can't attest to its quality though.

Either one, on one of the many cheap similar "mini USB wifi" adapters, should get you by for awhile, if nothing else.

u/blakinola · 2 pointsr/leagueoflegends

http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY - that solves your wifi issue.

I want you to play league but unless you can bribe your IT department, you're out of luck haha.

u/CmdrSquirrel · 2 pointsr/guns

USB wifi adapters can be notoriously shitty. I'd get something like this so that if it ends up being crap at least you're only out ~$10.

u/nerdflu · 2 pointsr/openbsd

If you just want to use client mode, I had luck with this and holy cow that's on sale!
lol wasn't expecting that.

hostapd didn't like it, but I could join at Starbucks.

u/Steve_the_Scout · 2 pointsr/MLPLounge

Got everything!

The Raspberry Pi:
$35

The monitor:
$16

The keyboard + trackpad:
$20

Power supply:
$10

USB hub:
$18

Wi-Fi Dongle:
$10

Total cost: $109, not including taxes/shipping. Not bad for essentially a mini laptop. Get a nice big USB stick for a "hard disk", make a big enough swap partition, and it'll run fairly well, too. Or I could get an actual hard disk, but... This 128GB SSD would almost double the price of the whole thing.

u/SaneBRZ · 2 pointsr/SuggestALaptop

If you buy a manufacturer refurbished laptop from Lenovo, you're on the safe side. They provide a one year warranty on all their refurbished products.

For example you can get this Lenovo IdeaPad U310:

  • 13.3 inch, 1366x768p display
  • Intel i5-3317U + 4 GB of RAM
  • 500 GB HDD + 32 GB SSD cache
  • Intel HD4000 graphics

    for about $380. It comes with a warranty till September 2014. The only issue with this particular model is that the WiFi connection can be sometimes bad, so I would carry around a WiFi adapter for these cases.
u/YodaTheCoder · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Yes. I have one of these. Edimax EW-7811UN

I set it up using the script linked in this thread

And here is the output from wavemon

u/lefattire · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Laptop......... You will have to roll with the punches man, unless you can update the router. Try a firmware (bios) upgrade... I was having issues getting ipads to reflect oover on desktops via wifi into cable and back into the desktops, updated the firmware and BAM! usb dongle

u/moangan · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Sure. Mostly info from here.

I purchased a USB WiFi adapter and USB gigabit ethernet adapter. Both seem to work without issue. Honestly, everything seems to work without issue but do not want to be the first ;).

u/OgdruJahad · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Sounds like your Wi-Fi device is possible faulty, since you are using a five year old device a Wi-Fi dongle like this, or this, is recommended.

u/Montzterrr · 2 pointsr/embedded

you could get something like this.

maybe use some LEDs to indicate movement detection or lights on/off in a room. Maybe store a record to a text file of the times whatever you are tracking was detected.

Maybe get a wifi dongle like this. and have it so you can ssh into the r_pi and monitor the log files? If you are feeling really productive, maybe have the r_pi act as a web server and update a webpage with the data/most recent images so it would basically be a security camera.

Those kind of ideas are what I immediately think of with raspberry pi... but you may want to start a lot smaller. like just detecting movement and lighting an LED since you are just learning C++ now.

u/QNinja · 2 pointsr/linuxquestions

This one works well in Raspbian, both are Debian-based so it would most likely work.

u/Butthatsmyusername · 2 pointsr/PcMasterRaceBuilds

Is built-in wifi compatibility a must? If not, I'd go for the Biostar X370GTN instead, because it has an m.2 slot on the back, and then you could swap out that sata ssd for an m.2 one for the same price.

If you still need wifi, you could get an edimax wifi dongle like this one. I have one of these that I've treated none too well and it still works just fine.

Edit: also, reddit ate your formatting.

u/sailorcire · 2 pointsr/linux

This is the exact one I use. I believe it's a realtek chipset which is super common (especially with rPi unofficially adopting that as a WiFi module of choice).

u/cHy40444 · 2 pointsr/BSD

I found this on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ that a lot of people say works with the raspberry pi, so this should probably work with FreeBSD right?

u/DiabloConQueso · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

This one's virtually plug-and-play under Raspbian.

u/bassgirl90 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

how do you know that your phone can connect to the router. Are you browsing website without using cellular data? because if that is the case then your PC's network controller is toast and you need a new network card. If you're on a laptop then you could try using a usb wireless adapter.

u/Cintax · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I used this one and it worked like a charm. Small and out of the way too, so I could plug in a USB mic too without issue.
Edimax EW-7811Un

u/Pseudogenesis · 2 pointsr/RetroPie

I'll second this recommendation /u/EOMFD, buying a wifi adapter makes managing the Pi SOOOOO much easier. I bought this tiny one for $8 and it worked right from the first plug in.

If you have a Windows machine on the same network as the Pi, you can type

\RetroPie
in the File Explorer directory bar and get instant access to the roms, bios and config files on the Pi from the Win machine. You can just drag n drop roms in there. It's so useful.

u/Grixin · 2 pointsr/SurfaceLinux

Another approach for sake of documenting 2018 tips.

I use fedora on a SP3 with no windows. Wifi was spotty and despite all fixes still varied from kernel to kernel. I bought a wifi dongle for 8 bucks. the Edimax nano and since wifi is solid and was plug-and-play. current state post on this subreddit fixes any hibernation workaround stuff.

Everything works as it should with no windows installed. Auto rotate, touch, keyboard snap on and off, and dock all working as expected. Only issue is a small nano dongle in the usb slot. (I use the SP4 type cover and a Bluetooth mouse anyways)

Link to amazon for dongle. currently 7.89 USD

u/26zGnTdCTvvbzacN · 2 pointsr/tails

Not sure, but this is the one I use on my Mac and it works. It comes with a disc but you can install the driver online as well. If you don't find a solution, this is only $8.

u/goodeness · 2 pointsr/Koyoteelaughter

These are the ones I keep in my PC store, never had issues with them unless you're talking extreme distance. Jic best buy wants $50 for one lol
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003MTTJOY/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1494884303&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=wireless+adapter

u/subtle_response · 2 pointsr/SurfaceLinux

Yup. That problem existed for me when my SP3 was using Windows and continues to this day with all and every linux distro. I believe it is a hardware/firmware problem. I think there is a firmware update you could try -- no idea if it works. I just finally bought a little wifi dongle for $10 and have enjoyed trouble free wifi since. :)


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/HalfBurntToast · 2 pointsr/MyLittleSupportGroup

Hmm, you said this was your main computer, do you have another computer that can connect to the internet? Reason I ask is that I've been able to turn my laptop into a temporary wifi bridge when I've needed to connect something, like an Xbox 360. You can download pfSense and install it into a virtual machine and use the physical interfaces as the virtual routers interfaces.

So, if you have a laptop with an ethernet port and wifi, you could set both of the pfsense VM interfaces to bridged and then connect your main computer directly to the laptop via ethernet, and the main computer will essentially use the virtual pfsense router for internet access. There might be an easier way to do it, but that's what I've tried successfully in the past.

I'm just wondering, if it's connected, if it will just find and download the drivers automatically. Or if they'll show up in Settings -> Software & Updates -> Additional Drivers.

Alternately, if you'd like to change wireless adapters, I own this one and I know it will auto-configure to a working state. It's reception isn't fantastic, but if you're close enough it should work alright.

I'll keep looking more into it.

u/spikeyslam · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

You'll need to get either a HDMI (newer computer monitors, HDTVs) or DVI to HDMI (older computer monitors) to connect it to a display.

For around $10, you can get an USB WiFi adapter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/

u/nyran20 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Get a USB one

u/stmiller · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Yeah some older USB wifi adapters use too much power. If you try to plug them in, the pi will shutoff. For just a few bucks you can get:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/

u/homer2320776 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Googling the N300 shows the disconnection is a common issue with that device.

I always use these, http://amzn.com/B003MTTJOY , they are cheap and I've never had any issues with them.

u/much_longer_username · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Yes. I prefer the USB option myself, because you can place the antenna independently of the computer, rather than being stuck with whatever signal you happen to get between your tower, desk, and wall.

I've got a few of these that I use for penetration testing of wireless networks. They're pretty beastly - you might want an AC variant, if your router supports 802.11AC

u/robot_one · 2 pointsr/HowToHack

The biggest hurdle is that you will need a wireless card capable of injecting packets.

This is one of the more popular cards: http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-Wireless-Long-Range-Screw-On/dp/B003YIFHJY/

The one built into your computer might be capable, so check that first.

Tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RydsjNhUjdg

u/vvelox · 2 pointsr/linux

I like the Alfa AWUS036NH. It uses the RT2800U chipset and works nicely under both FreeBSD and Linux.

http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-802-11g-Wireless-Long-Range/dp/B003YIFHJY/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_2_2

u/qoar · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Correct, a more sensitive receiver will pick up those fainter signals from further away. The issue is that the higher dBi gain an antenna is rated for, the higher directionality it is. The problem with getting too directional is that the cone of signal it is looking at could move around too much while on a boat. Tide, boat wake, people shifting on boat, etc, could all move the cone away from the area the access point is. You could try the parabolic reflector antennas, but you would select a dBi gain based on what the current antenna is. For example, if the antenna in your device is 2dBi (pretty common), look for a 9dBi directional antenna.

Alfa networks make powerful usb wifi adapters that include decent omnidirecitonal antennas, and this one here even has a good directional antenna included as well.

u/InternMan · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

These are pretty crazy. Assuming that the wifi is sent by a decently powerful access point, and there is a pretty clear line of sight you can hit wifi at some crazy ranges. Now, the connection is going to be spotty and the the speed will be abysmal. Leeching wifi at 2km with a giant yagi would be a pretty sad life. I never said that it was a good idea, just that it can be done. Oh I forgot to mention, unless you have a license, it would be very illegal to use a yagi on a 2w transmitter since it would give unholy EIRP.

Think about it, our control systems are 2.4ghz and with directional antennas people can get like 5km. The taranis only has a transmit power of like 100mW which is comparable to many access points. All the things that our fancy dancy RC protocols do, was first implemented in wifi. We are basically flying drones with wifi.

u/jelanen · 2 pointsr/WorldofTanks

I travel a bit for work, seldom overnighters that I'm staying away from home. For other reasons, I picked up a USB long-range network adapter and its done wonders for firming up weak signals and getting signals I otherwise wouldn't have gotten.

http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-Wireless-Long-Range-Screw-On/dp/B003YIFHJY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1382712089&sr=8-4&keywords=alfa

u/Rownik · 2 pointsr/digitalnomad

Get a directional wifi atenna like one of these and you will be able to connect to hotspots over a mile away:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003YIFHJY/

u/TheNASAguy · 2 pointsr/razer

This should work just fine for you but you could also get This as an alternative.

u/jerkstore4 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Yes, while most every motherboad has wired networking, the majority of motherboards don't have built in wifi.

You can either get a USB wireless network adapter or a PCI/PCIe one. If you stick with the GA-78LMT-USB3 you'll probably want an external one as the PCIe 1x slot will be covered by the video card and the conventional PCI slot will be right up on it.

There are a wide range of USB WiFi adapters from generic ones under $10 to some very expensive ones. Performance doesn't necessarily correlate with price. If you walk into a store like WalMart you can expect to pay $20 for their least expensive ones.

Most USB WiFi adapters are are in the form of small USB thumb drives. Sometimes it's worth it to buy a larger adapter with a more substantial antenna though.


As a side note, the GA-78LMT-USB3 is a good motherboard but if you planned on overclocking your 8 core, you may want to consider some of the higher end boards. It also lacks SATA III so you won't get the top performance out of an SSD if you add one. It's still a solid board and I've used it in a number of builds.

u/jcolts23 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

How fast is your internet? If no more than 150Mb/s, i'll suggest the TL-WN722N. Which i use on my gaming desktop PC. I've never had any problems connecting to my wifi. Also, It's cheaper than the one you have listed, only 13.35USD or 10.52 in your foreign money. But fear not, if your internet speed is indeed faster than 150Mb/s, you could always go with it's bigger brother the TL-WN822N. Which can push out 300Mb/s and costs 18.80USD or 14.66€

u/blurryleg · 2 pointsr/buildapc

This Might work well instead of running wires.

I personally have this that I use and it works great through 4 walls (router is in a closet) and across a rather large sized house.

u/em-bomb · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

pretty good but get a different network adapter and id personally recommended these changes

Network adapter: http://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-TL-WN822N-300MBPS-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1419014423&sr=1-2&keywords=wifi+adapter

PSU :http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-Builder-Series-Modular-Certified/dp/B00ALYOTTI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419014385&sr=8-1&keywords=PSU

if you play rome 2 or other strategy sims that proc isnt the greatest, the gpu will outshine the cpu in certain games giving huge fps spikes from like 30 one moment to 60 the next

of course this is only select few games anything else is flawless bf4,skyrim etc

u/tangochicken · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I recently (Like a week ago) purchased this: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN822N-Wireless-External-Antennas/dp/B00416Q5KI

Has worked fantastically so far getting a full 5 bars instead of the sketchy 2-3 I was getting with my old one.

u/squidboots · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I have tried lots of cards and have never found one I have been happy with. It's either the hardware is weak or the drivers are terrible.

The only wireless solution I've found that has worked well for me is this little guy right here. Drivers are simple and solid, it's high gain so it picks up very weak signal (ours picks up a router that is behind two cinder block walls), and it just works.

u/Diox788 · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

I've used something like this for a while and I love it.

You could also buy powerline ethernet adapters, but your house needs decent wiring for those to work.

u/bilago · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

How far is this machine from the wireless router? If the distance isn't too far you can get away with using a USB wifi adapter.

Here is a good example TP-LINK TL-WN722N

u/misticshadow · 2 pointsr/buildapc

This is the best WiFi dongle you are ever going to have. I have used it in extremely congested WiFi traffic scenarios and this bad boy works amazingly. Only downside, it does not have 5ghz but I have never felt the need to switch because it works so well. Also it's portable unlike a lot of solutions people are posting requiring plugging it into the mother board. And it doesn't hurt that it is very reasonably priced.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00416Q5KI/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481466990&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=tp+link+wifi+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=31bm1O6%2B7GL&ref=plSrch

u/linuxfromsource · 2 pointsr/linuxquestions

It's not a bad investment to have a portable wireless device around that is reliable with Linux for problems like this. It would give you a temporary workaround while you install the needed updates. Plus, they're fairly cheap and you can use them anywhere to install Linux on other problem devices. Something that uses the ath9k driver is almost always a solid bet.

I have one of these, and it is really fast: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00416Q5KI/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I have had that exact wireless card in a netbook I used to own. I have gotten brcmsmac to work before in Gentoo and other distros with it, but it was always unreliable. The wl driver works MUCH BETTER with this particular wireless device.

I found a good description of what might help you in this thread. http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=1889170&p=11502676#post11502676

Blacklisting all the conflicting modules should help.

u/Chonky_Fire · 2 pointsr/theNvidiaShield

USB to Ethernet works flawlessly for me. Definitely worth the money. I got this Y cable and this Ethernet adapter for under $18 altogether. That way I can charge my tablet while the adapter is plugged in for longer sessions. Great performance all around.

Charging is not possible with the Ethernet to micro USB adapters, so I highly recommend this setup if you go this route. Nvidia recommends using a Y cable on their website as well.

u/urda · 2 pointsr/wiiu

You can buy other adapters...

I use this one: Plugable USB 2.0 to 10/100 Fast Ethernet LAN Wired Network Adapter for Macbook, Chromebook, Windows 8.1 and Earlier, Surface Pro, Wii, Wii U, Linux, and Specific Android Tablets (ASIX AX88772 chipset) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_fPCqub01TFGA4

Works great!

u/CollateralFortune · 2 pointsr/homelab

This is what I cam here to recommend.

These work on almost everything I've ever thrown them at.

u/zBGam · 2 pointsr/Roku

I have the same issues a have literally tried everything including hardwiring it. There is something seriously wrong with this firmware version. TV reset, Network reset, bought

Plugable USB 2.0 to Ethernet Fast 10/100 LAN Wired Network Adapter for MacBook, Chromebook, Windows, Linux, Wii, Wii U & Switch Game Console https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.ZhNBbWK84Q26

The TV does the same thing. Nothing works and TCL said we can't repair your TV it's out of warranty. Umm it is not the TV it's the firmware.

This TV have been flawless till this firmware version.
Firmware v8.1.0 Build 4140

u/mw2dude2010 · 2 pointsr/galaxys5

I have a USB otg cable and an Ethernet to USB adapter and it doesn't work on the galaxy s5

u/TheSublimeLight · 2 pointsr/wiiu

The base Wii firmware is horrible for connecting wireless. A few things:

Try moving your wii u into the room with the wireless access point, as the closer you are in proximity to the access point, the less interference there will be. If this doesn't help at all, the best thing to do would be to get a wired usb to cat 5 adapter. you can plug this into the wii u's USB ports and connect a wired ethernet cable. This is the one that I purchased.

u/ungenesis · 2 pointsr/smashbros

I'm not high level enough to comment about specific frame data or anything, but a wired connection is pretty much guaranteed to perform better than a wireless one. If you're worried about financial risk, I've linked a very inexpensive adapter below. It's not first party, but reviews indicate it is compatible with Wii U.

http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Network-Chromebook-Specific/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421890624&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+ethernet+adapter&pebp=1421890634103&peasin=B00484IEJS

Hope this helps!

u/altimax98 · 2 pointsr/nexus6

I use this one with an OTG adapter mainly for my Nexus Player and my Chromebook without issue.

u/thoomfish · 2 pointsr/theNvidiaShield

No, but it's kind of already there.

u/zhemao · 2 pointsr/IWantToLearn

I used this USB-to-Ethernet adapter with my Macbook Air when I first set up my wifi router. It seemed to work quite well.

u/mrbill · 2 pointsr/Nexus5

Most of those cheap dongles use the same ASIX chipset; there's no need to pay $17 for the BobJGear model. I like the Plugable one myself ($12):

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00484IEJS/

I've found even the $5-6 models off eBay work fine with both my Surface RT, Surface Pro, Macbook Pro/Air, and any of my Chromebooks, as long as they have that ASIX AX88772 chipset.

u/firefoxvulpix · 2 pointsr/wiiu

I was having trouble with the Wii u not connecting to college internet. I went out and bought a ethernet to usb from Bestbuy and started getting the "plug in the Wii LAN adapter message. I found out it only takes certain adapters for some reason. I got this one off of Amazon and it works out perfectly.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00484IEJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hope it all works out for you!

u/averypoliteredditor · 2 pointsr/computertechs

That's what I'm using. The important thing with WinPE is that the driver is 'net' class and not 'usb' class driver. By default, WinPE will ignore loading drivers if their not the right class. You can open the .inf for your drivers and check this. Here's the adapter I'm using.

u/migit128 · 2 pointsr/wiiu

Why get a usb 3.0 adapter for a wii u? It only has 2.0 plugs. It's a waste of money.

I got this one for my Wii U.

Works as good as anything else. You still get dropped from games though since they're generally hosted on other peoples wii u (who have wireless).

u/Ospov · 2 pointsr/smashbros

Link to the adapter. It explains why it's better in the video. The TL;DW is the official Nintendo adapter is USB 2.0 and this is USB 3.0 so the transfer speeds are just inherently faster. Plus it's like half the price of the official one.

u/theoquinc · 2 pointsr/splatoon

The greatest thing you can do is find a way to run a Cat5 cable to your Switch and buy a USB Ethernet adapter. I bought this one, it has the exact same chipset as the official (and more expensive) one:

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00AQM8586

u/imaref · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Could be your ethernet port is broken. If that ends of being the case (and if you have a 3.0 USB port), you can get one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00AQM8586

u/Donkey-Inferno · 2 pointsr/smashbros

Technically yes but the best ones to get are the USB 3.0 Adapters. If you look on the inside of your Switch Dock you will notice one of the two USB Ports is Blue. The blue indicates USB 3.0. Here’s a link to the exact one I have. I’ve had it for about 6 months and it works wonderfully. There are a few other 3.0’s to choose from that I’m sure all work just as well.

u/ignition386 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQM8586/

The ASIX AX88179 chipset is the same chipset used in the official Nintendo adapter.

u/Chokaay · 2 pointsr/Switch

I think most of your questions depend on how you plan to use your Switch. For me, 99.9% of the time I use it in handheld mode, so accessories important for my usage are different than someone who primarily uses it in docked mode.

​

u/haneybd87 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

This one got much faster speeds than the official Nintendo one, and I’ve encountered no issues since the update. https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00AQM8586

u/wildcarde815 · 2 pointsr/homelab

Just be conscious that it requires a specific chipset, i went with this adapter and it works well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQM8586/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/captiveball · 2 pointsr/SwitchPirates

i got one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQM8586/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

it really helps when downloading larger games to have a wired connection.

u/AgroFrizzy · 2 pointsr/Steam_Link

I have my computer wired to the steam link. I bought this USB Ethernet adapter for only 15 dollars so that I could have two network ports, one for the steam link and one for internet access.

u/Philmore · 2 pointsr/hackintosh

I know this is more of a workaround than a real solution, and you may want to get it working correctly. However, I had the same problem and eventually just gave up, [bought one of these] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQM8586/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), plugged it in and called it a day.

u/amnon333 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

This adapter is also pretty good and essentially doubled my speed. I was getting about 40mb down on wifi and now I get about 80mb connected.

u/PleySteshon · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch
u/callbobloblaw · 2 pointsr/Vive

This is correct - to elaborate, I purchased one of these to plug in the ethernet cable from my modem, and it works great (if you don't have a second ethernet port, I would recommend it).

u/seniortroll · 2 pointsr/homelab

I think the M700 is only available in the Tiny form factor. Great machines, I have had one before and still have a couple M83p units.

http://psref.lenovo.com/syspool/Sys/PDF/ThinkCentre/ThinkCentre%20M700%20Tiny/M700%20Tiny.pdf

Per the specs the NIC is an Intel I219-LV which is a pretty common Intel desktop NIC, but is NOT COMPATIBLE.

See the following link for 2016 compatible NICs:
https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/articles/000022599/network-and-i-o/ethernet-products.html

I have seen a lot of people use USB adapters for Lenovo Tinys before, I actually got THIS adapter myself for my M83p Tiny. Haven't tried it yet though. I checked and it's supposed to be compatible with ESXi, so idk about Windows compatibility.

u/KLM_SpitFire · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

So I ended up purchasing this one, along with a USB female to micro-USB adapter. It seems that Raspbian supports it OTB, and if I should decide to repurpose my Zero for something else I can always use the ethernet adapter with my MacBook Pro. Thanks again!

u/picano · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

My first search results for "Cable Matters" came up with

https://www.cablematters.com/pc-489-138-usb-20-to-10100-fast-ethernet-network-adapter.aspx

that explicitly states " This product is NOT compatible with the Nintento Switch." (Mispelling theirs.)

The 2nd adapter didn't say the same thing on their own site but did on their Amazon listing.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Ethernet-Adapter-Supporting-x/dp/B00BBD7NFU

Is it a different model?

u/avgsort · 2 pointsr/thinkpad

It'd be interesting if it was just that particular build.

Visible in this picture by notebookcheck: http://www.notebookcheck.net/fileadmin/_processed_/csm_links_7ee57ece3f.jpg

Under "Connectivity"
http://www.notebookcheck.net/Lenovo-ThinkPad-X1-Carbon-2016-Core-i7-WQHD-Ultrabook-Review.162631.0.html

EDIT: Could always get a USB to RJ45 like this: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00BBD7NFU

u/turlian · 2 pointsr/techsupport

This sounds like your Ethernet port on your motherboard is getting locked down to Fast Ethernet speeds for some reason.

If you're willing to throw $14 at it, grab one of these and see if that makes a difference.

u/cr0ft · 2 pointsr/AskTechnology

In reality, you don't need most of it anymore. Serial port? Small USB-to-serial adapter, job done. Optical drive? Basically never need one, when you combine stuff like server iDRAC and IPMI with remote management, and OS installs can be done off USB sticks.

The one thing I do wish my Surface Pro had is an Ethernet port, but I've managed to work around that also (usb3 to gigabit adapter).

Battery life? Well, a HP Spectre X360 15 inch - what may well be the best laptop of 2016 in my book - will have all-day battery life, and 4 USB ports (one USB-C, 3 A), plus HDMI and DisplayPort.

Arguably, a 15 inch slim ultrabook like that and a serial port adapter and USB3 bluray will still be less to haul than some ugly old brick. And if you find yourself standing in a data center needing to operate it one handed, it flips into tablet mode with a touch screen.

https://www.amazon.com/VicTsing%C2%AE-playback-Blu-ray-External-desktops/dp/B014OSZF4Y

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Converter-Prolific-Chipset-TU-S9/dp/B0007T27H8

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00BBD7NFU - or better yet this, if you want more USB3 ports also: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B01J6583NK

But, in answer to your actual question, no, I'm not aware of an old school brick with tons of ports that's worth buying. A few accessories you can keep in the bag until you need them makes more sense anyway - in my opinion.

Well, unless you go to rugged or semi-rugged designs. They have to be so bulky anyway that they toss in a ton of ports.

http://en.getac.com/notebooks/S410/features.html perhaps or machines of that style.

Dell also makes semi-rugged. Panasonic Toughbook etc. But all these rugged models cost a premium. Then again, if you get stuck in a snowdrift, you can use them as shovels, so... :)

Or else, you can go all out! :) http://en.getac.com/notebooks/X500-Server/features.html

u/construktz · 2 pointsr/SuggestALaptop

If it's an under $1000 ASUS Ultrabook you're after, I'd go for the ASUS Vivobook V301LP. Light, high quality IPS display, dedicated graphics (albeit weak ones), and 8GB RAM. There is no ethernet port, but you can get a USB to RJ-45 Adapter

u/uptown47 · 2 pointsr/PleX

Right... just reporting back on my findings on this and also looking for some help.

I've not been able to watch 4K films on my TV up until this point.

FIrstly, I bought this adaptor:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00BBD7NFU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I "forgot" my WiFi settings so the TV had no internet connection. Plex was showing "No Connection".

As soon as I plugged it in it started flashing and Plex started working again! So... result so far!!!

Then I tried to play a movie that had the following audio...

  • Codec HEVC
  • Bitrate 85343 kbps
  • Bit Depth 10
  • Chroma Subsampling 4:2:0
  • Color Primaries bt2020
  • Color Range tv
  • Color Space bt2020nc
  • Color Trc smpte2084
  • Frame Rate 23.976 fps
  • Height 2160
  • Level 5.1
  • Profile main 10
  • Ref Frames 1
  • Width 3840
  • Display Title 4K (HEVC Main 10 HDR)

    The video was "direct play" but the audio (detailed above) transcoded and, unfortunately, it still buffers now and again?

    However, if I play another audio stream which is "direct play" then the film plays fine without buffering?

    Does anyone know what's causing it to buffer when I'm transcoding my audio??

    If I check the bandwidth, CPU and RAM whilst it's transcoding the audio, the bandwidth seems to spike around 260Mbps (the CPU and RAM seem very low and steady - around 20% for both). However, the bandwidth spikes don't seem to correlate with the buffering? It can go to 260Mbps and then drop to 150Mbps - then drop to around 100 and suddenly 'buffer'?

    Anyone know where to direct my attention next to fix it so that I can also transcode audio?

    (BTW X-play seems to be worse than Plex for some reason - unless there's settings in X-play I don't know about - I've only used it once before?)

    This is a massive leap forward as it is. Just being able to play 4K films is great. But it would be amazing if I could also play the proper audio?

    Thanks for your help :-)

    Note: TV is LG OLED65C7V
u/NeedaTryHarder · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I bought an Asus PCIE for $95~. It was great, but something popped in there and now it's making an annoying noise. I couldn't ignore or tune out the noise so I decided to buy a cheap USB one. I honestly don't see a difference..

u/6x9equals42 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If it's a desktop get a pci or pci-e adapter like this or this. The more expensive ones will have better range/speed

u/ColdestCore · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Didn't use it long before I sold it, but I never had issues with the ASUS PCE‑AC68. It's AC1900 and about CDN$ 118 for a new one.

LINK

Edit: Added Amazon CA link. Canadian dollar pricing

u/wickeddimension · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Yes I do (Althought I always recommend Cable over Wifi ,but I'll just assume that isn't a possiblity for you :P )

The Archer T series are good. The 3 models come up as top, T6E , T8E , T9E. Some do 802.11AC wifi others don't. Depends on your router and home network if you would have any use for that.

Those are all PCI Cards you place inside your PC. The Asus PCE-AC68 also deserves a mention if we are talking about High performance Wireless cards. Althought its expensive.

You can also go the USB route, you'll end up with dongles like this Netgear AC1200 which is a excellent USB options, but once again pricey (See the trend, dont worry we are getting there)

A more affordable PCI Options would be this TP-LINK WDN4800 N900 or a USB dongle like this TP-Link WDN4200 N900

And if you are really low on funds you could go for something like the Asus USB-N13 for 18$ or TP-Link N300 which is only 11$.

Personally I'd recommend you grab the TP N900, either the PCI or USB variant would do fine , PCI is faster, USB is probably a bit more versatile as you can use it with any PC/Laptop. N900 gets great reviews all around and it supports 802.11N , should be plenty fast for gaming. One issue the N900 seems to have is Digital signage with W10 ,so you need a different driver than the official one to get by this issue and use 5ghz. Not sure if thats relevant for you.

Either way ,you see the trend, Asus and TP-link are really my go2brands for anything networking.

I realize I still gave you a ton of choices, might not be the most helpful, but atleast you'll have some direction to look.

u/idunowat23 · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

$2400 4K Gaming PC


Max settings at 4K resolution will bring any existing hardware to its knees, but we can come very close to your desired 120fps. You should expect to get better framerates substantially higher than the benchmarks below because the video card in this build is clocked 13.6% higher than the reference model.

The key to achieving the highest framerates at 1440p and 4K is simply to include the strongest video card possible. This means the RTX 2080Ti with the highest boost clock frequency we can afford.

  • Destiny 2 Ultra Settings:
  • 1440p: 198fps
  • 4K: 99fps
  • Full benchmarks
  • Micro Center Parts:
  • CPU, Motherboard

    PCPartPicker Part List

    Type|Item|Price
    :----|:----|:----
    CPU | Intel Core i7-9700K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor | $299.99
    CPU Cooler | be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 50.5 CFM CPU Cooler | $90.00
    Motherboard | Gigabyte Z390 GAMING X ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $119.99
    Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $69.99 @ Newegg
    Storage | Sabrent Rocket 2 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $249.98 @ Amazon
    Video Card | MSI GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB GAMING X TRIO Video Card | $1199.89 @ Amazon
    Case | NZXT H700 ATX Mid Tower Case | $109.98 @ Amazon
    Power Supply | Corsair TXM Gold 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | $89.99 @ Newegg
    Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit | $137.90 @ OutletPC
    Wireless Network Adapter | Rosewill RNX-AC1900PCE PCIe x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $59.99 @ Newegg
    | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
    | Total (before mail-in rebates) | $2457.70
    | Mail-in rebates | -$30.00
    | Total | $2427.70
    | Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-09-25 21:49 EDT-0400 |

    Explanation of Part Choices:


  • Cpu: This is the second strongest gaming cpu available. You could technically get away with the 6-core Ryzen 5 3600 or the i5-9600K, but with a budget this large it makes sense to spend a bit extra to get an 8-core cpu to future-proof the build against the possibility that future games begin using more than 6 cores. I don't recommend the more expensive 9900K because we don't need hyper threading and the performance difference at 1440p and 4K resolutions will be negligible, and we are better off spending that money on a stronger video card.
  • Cpu Cooler: This is one of the top two air coolers available and actually delivers stronger cooling performance than most high-end AIO water coolers. It will enable you to heavily overclock the 9700K if you choose. It is currently out of stock, but will be in stock on October 29th.
  • Motherboard: One of the cheapest motherboards with VRMs strong enough to support overclocking the 9700K. See the Intel VRMs tier list.
  • Memory: 3000mhz is the fastest speed before intel cpus suffer heavy diminishing returns. 15CAS latency instead of 16 (lower latency results in faster cpu performance). 16GB is more than enough memory unless you will be using this PC for professional video editing or CAD work.
  • SSD: Cheapest 2TB TLC NVMe SSD with a dram cache and a 5 year warranty (make sure you register to get the warranty). NVMe SSDs are ~3 times faster than traditional SATA SSDs. TLC SSDs are much faster than the cheaper QLC SSDs in sustained reads/writes and do not slow down as much as they fill up. I do not recommend an HDD unless you plan to store large amounts of video files. It's hard to go back to loading games from an HDD after you've experienced SSD loading speeds.
  • Video Card: The RTX 2080Ti is the strongest gaming video card available. EVGA is considered the most reliable brand with the best customer service. I selected a high-end model (as determined by its boost clock speed). It's boost clock speed is 1755mhz, which is 13.6% faster than the basic models which are clocked at 1545mhz. There are 2080Ti's with higher clock speeds than this, but they either have poor ratings or are several hundred dollars extra, which is just a very poor value.
  • Case: This is the high-end version of the most popular case (the H500). We want the H700 because this build has very power-hungry hardware (more power equals more heat) and the H700 has significantly better airflow thanks to its larger vents and four case fans. I selected the black and white model just because it was slightly cheaper than the all black model.
  • Power Supply: 7 year warranty. 750W is more than enough for this 449W system, which leaves plenty of room for overclocking and future upgrades. Modular for easier cable management. 80+ gold efficiency.
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro as requested. However, Windows 10 Home would be fine as long as this PC will not be part of a large network of computers (like in a business office) and as long as you do not care about the remote access feature that Pro has.
  • Wifi: It is actually much cheaper to get a separate wifi adapter than to get a motherboard with built-in wifi in most cases, particularly since you need gigabit connection speeds. This model is the cheapest gigabit wifi adapter with a large sample size of good reviews. Rated for 1300Mbps on the 5.0 GHz band and 600Mbps on the 2.4hz band. You can spend a bit more on the ASUS AC1900 if you want an extension cable so that the antennas can be in a more advantageous spot. This would only be necessary if the PC will be far from the router or or if the PC will be stuck under a metal desk or something else that would significantly block wifi signals.
u/cozzy891 · 2 pointsr/googlefiber

This is the wifi adapter I got for my desktop when I moved into my apartment with Fiber. Link

It does a pretty good job considering. I live in a 1400sqft apartment and the fiber box is in my dining room and my desktop is in the office is on the other side of the apartment. I get like 300-400 down usually.
I've also found success in splitting off the 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz. The 5Ghz band is a lot weaker but I still like to connect to it because I get so much faster speeds.

u/kindanerdysportsguy · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I use the ASUS PCE-AC68 AC1900, after experimenting with other cards and usb wifi adapters this is easily the most stable I have used.

Here is an amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VXQ7CbW5DHTWC

u/reallnigga · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

It has its good days and bad days. Im just gonna grab something similar to this. https://www.amazon.ca/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C .

u/H8teradio · 2 pointsr/buildapc

USB wifi adapters are notoriously bad, I'd go for the card. I can't say anything about the one you linked but, I have this one and it works awesome (pc upstairs, router downstairs)


https://www.amazon.ca/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493999913&sr=1-4&keywords=asus+wifi+adapter

u/Nvidiuh · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Asus makes some excellent PCI-E Wi-Fi cards. I have a PCE-AC56 and it has worked flawlessly for me for over two and a half years. It's well within your price range and it offers excellent performance. If you're looking for something a bit more powerful, the PCE-AC68 is basically the upgrade to the PCE-AC56, and I can only assume it performs slightly better. A final choice is to go balls to the wall overkill with the PCE-AC88, which I find hard recommending unless you need massive range and signal strength, which doesn't seem to be something you require. It's also out of your stated price range, so this one is entirely up to you. Any one of these should handily solve your problem. If you're looking for a good quality Wi-Fi solution that doesn't take advantage of your wallet like a prison bitch, the PCE-AC56 is a great choice.

u/spokemons · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Never does. The dual and triple band stuff never works for me. I've even moved the router in the same room as my pc... it got worse.

Wifi is great for every device but my PC. My next option was to purchase either this:

https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-PCI-E-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1482931397&sr=8-13&keywords=wifi+pci

or this:

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1482931397&sr=8-4&keywords=wifi+pci

For me personally, I used an old ethernet cable and ran that shit literally around my room. I could not justify the $60-$90 to buy a better PCIe card. Another Option could be to get a USB dongle and then have it on a long USB Cable that you can position to get a good signal (maybe?)

u/gregz83 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Just a personal opinion, always connect desktops to routers via Network (Cat6) cable when possible, that said:

Basic troubleshooting steps;

  1. Download a new driver
  2. Uninstall the driver, Reboot
  3. Reinstall the new downloaded driver
  4. Reboot the router
  5. Check position/placement of your antenna

    =====Still not working=====

u/Jerbils · 2 pointsr/google
u/Rethread · 2 pointsr/linuxmint

It should be noted that Wifi works well on Linux Kernel 5.1.16 following the instruction given on the Killer support site.

"Here's some good news! I updated my XPS 15 7590 to the latest kernel and firmware packages (linux 5.2.2.arch1-1 and linux-firmware 20190717.bf13a71-1), and the Killer AX1650 worked without any modifications! No need to remove firmware files or pull in iwlwifi backports. So, with this kernel and firmware combination, Killer AX1650 should work out of the box on a fresh install of Arch Linux." - 2019-07-24

The bad news is that the Linux Mint default kernel version is currently 4.15.0-58-generic and the above solution is specifically for Arch Linux - which can get extremely technical. Better news is that it will likely be incorporated into Linux Mint fairly soon as WiFi 6 becomes the new standard for hi-speed WiFi.

EDIT: USB WiFi for $15 and be up and running. This is what I would do for now.

u/reverendj1 · 2 pointsr/linuxquestions

I'm not sure why you are getting downvoted. Seriously, for the $8-15 it costs for a WiFi adapter, @swervelord just buy one that's supported. This is not a good road to go down. It will never "just work", it won't perform great in the best scenario (probably a few Mbps), and will always be aggravating. And you'll have to do it all over again every time you reinstall/change distros. As someone who's used Linux for 15+ years, is a professional Linux sysadmin on the server and desktop for 10+ years, just don't waste your time with unsupported wifi cards.

u/oxtoacart · 2 pointsr/headphones

https://imgur.com/gallery/P4cFs

I’m happy with the quality of the aluminum case.

I had to get a high gain wifi adapter because my bedroom is far from my access points. An older adapter is still on there because I haven’t taken time to reconfigure the OS to work without it.

The NX4 gets its data via USB and draws power via a separate USB port. Since it is battery powered, I can actually keep it topped up off the Pi, although it charges quite slowly.

u/blorg · 2 pointsr/digitalnomad

If what you care about is picking up a weak wifi signal you are probably better off with an external USB wifi adapter with actual antennas. From my reading on these, these can make a huge actual difference, and transform a wonky connection to a rock solid one.

Something like this - this is just a cheap one, if you are focused on range, read reviews and get one with the best range. But key is, you want something with a big honking antenna on it.

There are also repeaters, although I think if you just have one device you need range on, you are better off the USB external adapter route.

There are also "pocket routers" like the HooToo TripMate that /u/age_of_bronze mentions, and I have on of these myself- a TP-LINK WR710N which from the look of it is pretty similar to the HooToo. These are great for setting up a private network or to share an internet connection that is limited to one device, and they may indeed provide a modicum of range extension, but if range, specifically, is your goal, you are better off with something with a significant antenna and probably a USB adapter.

u/twothumber · 2 pointsr/linux4noobs

My recent Linux wireless experience:

  1. Bought this card from Amazon for $15.00 Chose it because it's Panda and has reputation for Ubuntu Support.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JDVRCI0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  2. Powered down computer, unplugged wired ethernet, plugged the USB Ethernet into back of machine
  3. Powered up Computer. Card was instantly recognized and clicked on the correct Wireless, inputted Password.
  4. 3 seconds and I was up and running. Actually seems faster than my built in ethernet.


    By the way Kubuntu recognized every device including my printer that was connected to the system.

    ​

    I realize that you are stuck with the NIC that's built into your system unless you want to add a compatible USB Nic and that's frustrating. Problem is that Linux is only 3% of the market and they can't support everything out of the box.

    Oh and my last computer had a proprietary NIC Windows didn't recognize it and I had to install drivers. Kubuntu picked it up and plugged and played it.

    ​
u/ProFusionYT · 2 pointsr/buildapc
u/onliandone · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

Basically nothing of this will fit into the second case. The mainboard for example is ATX, and in that size finding a X470 board is not an issue. Are you dropping the idea of later moving to the small case?

Things I'd change in the S340:

  • The G3 has issues with the fan curve, I'd get the Seasonic Focus Gold or the Corsair RMx instead.
  • The Hyper 212 is not a great cpu cooler, I'd get the Dark Rock 3, Scythe Fuma or something similar, at least a Cryorig H7.

    > If I want to wirelessly connect it what’s the best option?

    In the small case, the ITX mainboard will have wifi included, and that is really the best option here. Your only alternative would be a Wifi USB-stick. For a regular ATX board you can get a wifi card like https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K. But if you are not moving the PC around anyway try to use an ethernet cable.

    > Also if I have the budget should I put more into the keyboard or different monitor.

    I'd get a different monitor then, something like this Agon up to a Gsync monitor like the ASUS PG279Q
u/N8TM8T · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

LAN is superior to Wifi in almost every way. BUT, I know in some situations running an ethernet cable is either not possible (because they would need to run a wire through their whole house since they don't have built in LAN ports in their house). Wifi WILL cause you to have SLIGHTLY higher ping and can have issues such as losing connection, or lag. BUT if you need to go with wifi, get a decent Wifi card, dont go with a little USB thing or a cheap wifi card. Ive tried both and they suck. So my recommendation is 1)if possible, do LAN, 2)if not possible, buy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K/ref=sr_1_8?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1518132118&sr=1-8&keywords=wifi+card

u/FaisalKhatib · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I use the ASUS PCE-AC56 PCI on my second PC. Zero complains.

u/osfrid · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Finally, after all these reviews, i'm going to buy these pieces and build my masterpiece-wannabe.

I would like to thanks /u/Raffles7683 for his dedicated, nice and smart help ! Also, thanks to /u/DIK-FUK and /u/golli123.



That's it, the final configuration, which is 2€ cheaper than the first one. WHAT A SAVE. But it's all the way better. I finally picked a I7-6700k as a CPU since nobody seems to know at which point a I5-6600k will bottleneck the GTX 1080, even with a 4.5 Ghz overclock. The debate is running litteraly everywhere and no one has the same point of view. So... I guess i can throw 100€ by the window to be sure and to overlock a i7 to 4.4 Ghz.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU |Intel Core i7-6700K | €325.79 - Amazon.it
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | €34.99 - Amazon.it
Motherboard | Asus Z170-P ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | €109.61 - Amazon.fr
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | €126.04 - Amazon.it
Storage | Sandisk SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | €74.00 - Amazon.es
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | €53.44 - Amazon.fr
Video Card | KFA2 GeForce GTX 1080 EXOC 8GB Video Card | €560.00 - French shop
Case | Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case | €76.32 - Amazon.de
Power Supply | Corsair CSM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | €78.99 - Amazon.es
Wireless Network Adapter | Asus PCE-AC56 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | €48.00 - Amazon.de
Monitor | Acer XB271HU bmiprz 27.0" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor | €699.90 - French shop
| Total | €2187.08



  • The CPU has been edited according to /u/Raffles7683's review and /u/DIK-FUK's build suggest. And updated, because no one knows what is a bottleneck, in real world.
  • The RAM / SSD has been edited according to /u/Raffles7683's review, again.
  • The case has been edited according to /u/golli123's review


    I will provide some news in the future with, probably, in build photos :)
u/CodingCore_ · 2 pointsr/buildapc

> It really depends. Not all laptops are equal, nor are all PCIe cards. If you want the best wifi signal I suggest getting a card with an antenna you can move to a good spot.

A good choice: https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1495461120&sr=8-4&keywords=pci+ac+wifi

u/SlowBoiGuy · 2 pointsr/buildapc

ASUS PCE-AC56 Carte PCIe Wi-Fi double bande AC1300 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00JNA337K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wwJIBbJ0HZKMY

u/Redemption_vT · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/whoitbecuh · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Here it is, looking back I got it on sale for $45. I think wifi 6 is out now but not very mainstream, maybe wait for manufactures to start making wifi 6 cards for future proofing.

u/liberateus · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Amazon link for this

u/tkim91321 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

What will the machine be used for?

If the primary use is for gaming, I recommend a i5 and use that money saved on something else.

As for AIO, it's only necessary if you plan on overlcocking (which I assuming you are since you did pick a K processor). Otherwise, it's a purely aesthetic factor that costs $100+.

Also, I would advise that you get a wireless network card that supports AC as well. I have this one from Asus and it has been phenominal. I don't know if you have a AC compatible router at home but it's worth spending a little extra for more futureproof-ness.

u/OC_Rookie · 2 pointsr/techsupport

There are always USB adapters such as this one or ones that go into your PCIE slots if you have an open slot and your CPU has enough PCIE lanes such as this one .

u/JustNilt · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Sorry for the delay in getting bck to you from the other thread. Life, ya know?

That looks pretty good. I've had bad luck with TP-Link stuff, preferring these Asus WiFi cards when I can use them. Can't say if you can find one where you are but, if so, I'd go with that instead.

Sorry to keep linking to Amazon but I hate PCPArtPicker. :P

u/EleNova · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

1: wifi card: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JNA337K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2: i wouldn't say its necessary, but its future proof for a while. The bare minimum for a gaming desktop is 8GB. personally, i'd say go for it. Make the upgrade to 16, even if you're not using 8 right now.

3: NZXT S340 is always a good go-to case. Cheap, great cable management, a place to actually hide most of your hard drives and cables, etc.

4: be tedious. Check everything over 2 or 3 times. Wires are in the correct place and snug. motherboard is properly spaced as to avoid shortages. Hard drives are configured correctly. Ram sticks are in the correct recommended spots as per your motherboard manufacturer's guide. It's so much better to take longer and get it right the first time than to have some of your stuff sent back because you messed up and fried it/broke it/didn't make sure it was compatible ahead of time.

u/th3suffering · 2 pointsr/AndroidTV

When I had a MiBox I bought this one
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Network-Adapter-Ethernet-1000Mbps/dp/B00LLUEJFU

Worked great and is external powered (not required for just Ethernet) so the USB hub will work great too.

u/timrbrady · 2 pointsr/nintendo

Here's a list of adapters with that chipset on Amazon. I've noticed this one a couple times. My main concern is whether or not the cable is long enough to use with the Switch dock without having to leave the back flap open.

u/voneahhh · 2 pointsr/smashbros

UGREEN Ethernet Adapter USB Gigabit Network Adapter 10/100/1000Mbps/1 Gbps with USB 3.0 Hub 3 Ports for Nintendo Switch, Wii, Windows Surface Pro, MacBook Air/Retina, iMac Pro, Chromebook, and More PC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLUEJFU/

u/coledeb · 2 pointsr/AndroidTV

Not a problem. I will say I haven't pushed it to the very edge of what it claims in terms of support for 4k super ultra mega UHD dolby whatever, so bear in mind I can't really speak for that. But I think you'll do well with the mi box. If you want ethernet, I bought a UGreen USB 3.0 Hub that includes an RJ45 jack, and it works well.

u/TechDoctorUK · 2 pointsr/Addons4Kodi

Sorry, the USB adaptor I purchased is this

That is a a Gigabit adaptor.

I understand the port to the Firestick is only USB 2.0 but that still has a theoretical speed of 480mbs.

I would rather have a hardwired 480mbs connection Vs Wifi.

u/pofcorn · 2 pointsr/AndroidTV

I've had success with the ugreen with both the Mibox and Nintendo Switch : https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Ethernet-1000Mbps-Windows10-Nintendo/dp/B00LLUEJFU

u/GravityDead · 2 pointsr/AndroidTV

You should be able to stream 4K even on 50 mbps speed but if you still want improved speed then you may TRY (i'm not sure it'd work) this UGREEN USB 3.0 Ethernet+USB combo. This works with MiBox as expected so it may also work with your Sony TV.

u/jaxpunk · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLUEJFU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

17 bux on amazon to never have to worry about wifi in my living room. On the go, well that's another story. But at least playing on the tv there is no longer an issue.

u/epsileth · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

AmazonBasics USB 3.0 to 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet Internet Adapter
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00M77HMU0/

u/mcd1992 · 2 pointsr/networking

I think OP is referring to things like this: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1000-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00M77HMU0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1467374779&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+3+ethernet

Although if he is talking about USB over IP there is native kernel support for something called USB/IP which can be found in the kernel source code.

u/schopptop · 2 pointsr/techsupport

This one will be faster. Though, if your ISP wired your house then I would see if they can come out and test the line that runs from where your PC is to the modem. It is possible that there is an issue with the cable they ran.

u/Doughnutsu · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Pick one of the two items below and once you've got it, plug it into the usb slot on the back of the dock. Aside from that you just need an ethernet cable.

The main difference between the two items is that the Amazon Basics adapter doesn't have a cable long enough to plug it in and close the docks back door. Apparently the Ugreen adapters calble is slightly longer and will allow you to shut the door.

Amazon Basics

UGreen Adapter

u/legos45 · 2 pointsr/SuggestALaptop

His final specification are a bit rough, I'd be hard to find that super close to $500. But, I do know that CUK has custom laptops that has what he needs, and it is still under $1000.

How about the CUK Vivobook F510UA? It has:

  • i5-8250U 4-core processor (should be better than an i7 5th generation)

  • 16 GB of RAM

  • 1080p 15.6" display

  • 480 GB SSD storage

  • Weight of 3.7lbs and battery life up to 5 hours

    The laptop runs Windows 10 Home. There is no Ethernet included, but you can buy a USB to Ethernet, like this one for only a few dollars. This laptop is decently light for the price range and components, may or may not be useful for you.

    About upgrading gaming components, if your child already has a CPU/Motherboard/RAM, your child probably would want to upgrade the GPU first which will boost gaming performance a lot. The extra sum of money after buying the laptop can be used for a new GPU, a GTX 1080s have been touching $300 ever since the new GPU release.
u/wishful_cynic · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I bought this one and it works great, except the cord from the USB to the adapter is too short to fit through the cord slot on the back of the dock, so the dock flap needs to be open. This isn't a problem for my setup since the dock sits inside an open cabinet in our tv stand and you can't see the back of the dock. I think I remember a thread on this sub where someone recommended an adapter that does have a cord that fits through the slot, allowing you to close the back flap, so if that's an issue for you, do further research.

One other important thing to note: the ethernet adapter does nothing for handheld mode. This is probably obvious, but it's worth noting just in case someone doesn't know this already. I play the Switch almost exclusively in handheld mode except for Splatoon, and this adapter makes a huge difference for that, it's like night and day. I should probably start playing Rocket League on the tv as well, but I love being able to play in handheld mode and not hog the tv.

u/thenewstampede · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Is there any difference between a generic USB 3.0 to Ethernet adapter like this and the Hori product that is made specifically for the switch?

I want to get an ethernet adapter because I'm experiencing horrific lag on Street Fighter II. I'm hoping that the adapter will clean some of that up.

u/MrChromebox · 2 pointsr/GalliumOS

it works out of the box if you buy one with drivers in the mainline kernel. Just go on Amazon and search for 'USB ethernet linux'

edit: I'll make my post more useful and add that I've used the Amazon Basics USB 3.0/Ethernet adapter and works perfectly across all OSes: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M77HMU0

u/MagneticGray · 2 pointsr/smashbros

Heads up, the Amazon Basics USB 3.0 Gigabit Ethernet Adapter has the AX88179 chipset and is confirmed to work perfectly on the Switch. It's a simply plug-and-play installation.
Just make sure you get the USB 3.0 version and not 2.0 and you're golden.

And FYI, the AX88179 chipset actually has a 2-3% failure rate in the first 6 months so no matter what brand you get, you have a small chance of it dying on you in the first year. So I recommend the Amazon Basics one simply because of their customer service. You know Amazon will gladly send you out a new one no questions asked with 2 day shipping if yours stops working. It's also the cheapest of the bunch as well so that's another plus.

u/juiceqc · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

It's cool to hear that I'm not the only one facing this issue! So you are talking about this one?

Yes, pretty sure anyone using any kind of LAN adapter makes the Switch warm when sleeping since firmware 5.0, kind of the same behavior as the Wii with WiiConnect24 enabled.

I don't think it's necessarily bad that it's getting warm, its just weird that when using wifi only, its still connected to the internet while sleeping and does not gets warm at all!

I'm looking at the Ugreen one since it's a USB 3.0 ready, is at a good price and no one seems to have trouble with it. Just want to be ready before Smash is out!

u/Rathum · 2 pointsr/Games

Apparently, the Amazon Basics 3.0 one works.

I can personally confirm that this one works.

u/Cl3v3landStmr · 2 pointsr/AndroidTV

I use this on my MiBox 3 and it works flawlessly, so it should work on the Shield.

u/waawftutki · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

You just get one of those and plug the cable in your Switch dock.

That's it.

u/MacGuyverism · 2 pointsr/Quebec

C'est quoi une carte fibre?

Bell installent un modem, si on peut appeler ça comme ça, qui fonctionne sur de la fibre. De l'autre côté, t'as un port Ethernet Gigabit que tu branches dans un routeur. Après ça si ta carte mère est antique pis qu'elle a une carte réseau qui supporte juste 100mbit, t'achètes une carte interne ou USB.

Si la fibre rentre direct chez vous, à moins que le réseau soit congestionné, tu vas l'avoir ton gigabit. Si c'est juste de la fibre jusqu'au poteau pis qu'après ça c'est du DSL, c'est une autre histoire.

u/talones · 2 pointsr/Dell

I use this Dell adapter.

Dell Adapter, USB Type C to HDMI/VGA/Ethernet/USB (470-ABQN) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012DT6KW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_P-2FzbPN3Y5VT

Or just use the amazon basics USB3 to gigabit if you don’t want to pay a high price for the thunderbolt license.

AmazonBasics USB 3.0 to 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M77HMU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_J.2Fzb6B7HBM1


u/deerfarce · 2 pointsr/linuxhardware

yep.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1000-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00M77HMU0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503434551&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+to+ethernet

totally a thing. but why bother? your laptop supports AC, so wifi should be plenty fast; unless your router doesnt do AC in which case....

welcome to living on the bleeding edge of tech ;)

u/hab136 · 2 pointsr/applehelp

Instead of the $29 official Apple one, you can buy a third-party ethernet adapter. For example this $12.99 one from Amazon Basics. It's ugly though.

Unless you have over-100 Mbps internet, the adapter shouldn't make a difference in your speeds.

u/xtrap01nt · 2 pointsr/applehelp

Is this the one? https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1000-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00M77HMU0

If so and you've already installed the driver was it from here? http://www.asix.com.tw/download.php?sub=driverdetail&PItemID=86 I've seen this once and the problem was caused by the OS security thinking the kernel extension installed isn't secure. In turn, it doesn't load your driver. Pretty sure it's something that has to be updated by the manufacturer.

u/pocketknifeMT · 2 pointsr/digitalnomad

One could make a ghetto channel bonding router of sorts fairly simply, but that's probably overkill for the average lone nomad.

Or with the advent of thunderbolt/usb3.1, you could even just do it with your one computer if you aren't doing a vehicle.

Speedify will let you bond a bunch of connections together and short of thousands and thousands of dollars in equipment, it's the best thing going.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UhBeD5fRAmY

you can just keep slapping wan connections in whenever you are. take an arbitrary number of 4G, wifi, ethernet sources and combine them for bandwidth and latency improvements.

As a thought exercise lets take this picture and built out something for it.

1 person, 1 laptop, carry-on travel mode style. It's gonna be very Dongle-y, so it's practical mostly for when you camp out somewhere for a while to work. This probably isn't worth setting up at the airport unless you are trapped a good long while.

That laptop we want to have a solid peripheral bus with lots of bandwidth. Ideally Thunderbolt 3, but the 10gb USB, or honestly probably even the 5gb USB is gonna do for most people anyway.

Then we get a hub device with lots of ports on it.

This thing probably has at least USB3.1, and thus 5.0gb of bandwidth there probably.

amazon makes a perfectly serviceable hub with external power option:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-10-Port-Power-Adapter/dp/B076YRWV6Z/

Then you grab a few usb3.0 to gigabit ethernet adapters for flexibility of input:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1000-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00M77HMU0/

plus some USB wifi adapters (so you can get on multiple wifi networks at once)

This is apparently the amazon favorite. Having an actual antenna is nice.

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-1200Mbps-TECHKEY-Wireless-Network-300Mbps/dp/B07J65G9DD/

plus USB 4G modem sticks you can put local sims in. This is all gonna depend on where you travel. NA is different from Asia, etc.

Verizon offers one for $250 they claim works in 200 countries. On the other end, a Huawei stick that works in most of the world is like $60 and you can just keep popping sims in and out of them as you travel around and grab local ones. You can probably even just buy modems locally too as you travel. If you aren't buying from a carrier in north america, it's generally gonna be easy and painless.

You could also use phones as well. cheap ones have modems that can max most towers anyway, and they mostly all use the same antenna design now.

Some little baby usb extensions so you aren't fighting to fit things in your hub:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Black-Extension-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00S2N2Q4U/

All those things are tiny and can go in a little electronics roll or bag or something at the bottom of a backpack:
https://www.amazon.com/ProCase-Electronics-Organizer-Universal-Accessories/dp/B01EN4PP4E/

u/X1DekuOnyx · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Okay I changed a few things to save you some money and get more bang for you buck.

u/metoolio · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

I use this: https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Wireless-External/dp/B00MX57AO4/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1467488433&sr=8-9&keywords=wifi+usb+ac

Note that the included usb dock is 2.0. I am still using the dock though as I have not had any reason to buy a usb 3.0 dock.

u/mdnpascual · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Here's 2 products I'm currently considering.

2.4Ghz 2000Mw antenna - $50 CAD

vs

5Ghz dual band Usb 3.0 antenna - $86 CAD

What do you think should I get? the more modern 5ghz dual band one or the much bigger and beefier 2000Mw antenna?

u/tomswartz07 · 2 pointsr/RTLSDR

To be totally honest, if you're trying to replicate wifi, then use a wifi dongle.

These SDRs are not going to be able to provide the frequency range or the bandwidth you need.

You can get an Alfa wifi dongle (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MX57AO4/) for about $40, and using them in promiscuous mode will allow for more options akin to what you're trying to do.

u/EzrenTheDungeoneer · 2 pointsr/buildapc

To echo what /u/Just7 said, the wired network adapter and soundcard are unnecessary. You might also want to consider dropping the PCI wifi adapter and look into something like an Alfa, which is cheaper, tends to perform better, and frees up a precious PCI slot.

u/brokedown · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

In theory, a high gain antenna talking to a normal access point will increase the range substantially. High gain antennas on both ends obviously are better. A repeater could be used if a reasonable place to put one and a reasonable source of power are both available, but where I'm sitting I can get the faintest bit of wifi on cool calm nights so I'm expecting a better antenna to solidify that connectivity.

I just ordered this so I'll konw in a few days how well it works with the stock antennas, if I can avoid buying directional antennas that would be super.

u/LoneKrafayis · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I would get a USB wireless dongle, USB extension, and a directional antenna. To make this work, the dongle must have a removable antenna. If shipping is not an expense, I would buy step-by-step, starting with the dongle, then extension, finally the antenna (and antenna mounting solution).

I have no personal experience with this equipment. It was chosen because of features (like replaceable antennas) and Amazon reviews.

Alfa AWUS036AC Long-Range Dual-Band AC1200 Wireless USB Adapter With 2x Dual-Band (2.4GHz / 5GHz) external antenna for Extreme Distance Connection - Up to 300 Mbps - USB 3.0 - AC1200 Wireless chip - USB desktop Dock Included

CableCreation Gold (Long 16FT) Super Speed USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable, USB 3.0 Extender USB A-Male to A-Female Cable, 5Meter/16ft, Black

Alfa APA-M25 dual band 2.4GHz/5GHz 10dBi high gain directional indoor panel antenna with RP-SMA connector (compare to Asus WL-ANT-157)

All together, this is 95 CAD, but I expect the first item will solve the problem. If you do get the high-gain antenna, try it as a replacement of each of the side antennas on the USB dongle. This is because one antenna might be more important to the device then the other.

u/Ihatecraptcha · 2 pointsr/hackintosh

I have the z97-E version which doesn't have integrated Bluetooth but I got a generic Bluetooth dongle working and this wifi adopter working with el cap.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MX57AO4/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/TheChosenOne013 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Link and I can also vouch for this one. Works great.

u/CopperRaven · 2 pointsr/splatoon

I'm not going to say this will totally work for you because I don't know all the factors that made this work for me but here is what I did. (my switch was also too far away to run a cable to). I bought this https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Pass-Through-TL-PA4020P-KIT/dp/B010Q29OW6/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1509712689&sr=8-8&keywords=ethernet+powerline+adapter and this https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Ethernet-Adapter-Nintendo-Chromebook/dp/B00MYT481C/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1509712641&sr=8-5&keywords=switch+ethernet+adapter&dpID=41xJwvUzySL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

The powerline adapter was easy to set up and in my house the outlets they are in are on different breakers and that seems fine. After setting them up, plugging in the switch, and setting it to run on wired not wi-fi there's one more thing I did. In a connection test I saw my nat type was B also, everyone said that wasn't great and it should be A for best performance so after lots of googling I figured out how to change that in my router settings.

For me I have comcast so to get to my router settings I type 10.0.0.1 into my address bar and enter the default username and password for comcast (admin ; password) then on the left there is and advanced tab and under that DMZ. Enable that and for the host set the switch's ip witch you can see in the connection test, mine was 10.0.0.11 yours will probably be different. Save that then run a connection test again and it should be type A. Whatever router you have should have something similar so just google how to set up dmz for your specific brand.

After doing this I very rarely disconnect.

u/NewFoundRemedy · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

USB Ethernet adapter plugs right into the usb on the dock, the one I bought is $9 on Amazon, then you plug an ethernet cable from your router into the adapter which you can also get fairly cheaply on Amazon.

u/TomC90 · 2 pointsr/Splatoon_2

Yes, USB to Ethernet. Best Idea ever if you use the Switch not Mobile. For the Station. so its really good. I used it for the WiiU and now for the Switch.
https://www.amazon.de/UGREEN-Netzwerk-Ethernet-kompatibel-unterst%C3%BCtzt/dp/B00MYT481C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501233983&sr=8-2&keywords=nintendo+switch+lan+adapter

here is one but there are more of them in amazon. There is a Adapter sell from Nintendo but that is to expensive.

u/Byron1421 · 2 pointsr/Splatoon_2

://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00MYT481C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_a3iNzb0BGNAR9

Nope, this one :P

u/philipcongle · 2 pointsr/splatoon

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Ethernet-Adapter-Nintendo-Chromebook/dp/B00MYT481C/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1525189536&sr=8-4&keywords=lan+adapter

This one is only $10. Depending on your router, you may not notice a big difference though. I've played both ways and do notice a little less lag when using the adapter.

u/Jamaz · 2 pointsr/CrazyHand

I haven't heard of bogus ethernet adapters causing issues unless we're talking some no-name brand from Alibaba. There's a good chance you bought the same one as me from Amazon which hasn't given me problems: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYT481C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What I suggest is to try out your other Switch games to test out their connection. Or you can setup a Battle Arena with competitive ruleset to attract someone who probably has a wired connection - or ask a friend/Discord rando to join your arena and test the lag. If it works, then it's the opponent's bad connection, but if it doesn't, it's something to do with yours.

u/deltasalmon · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I use this one. It works great and hasn't bricked my system.

u/ThatNormalBunny · 2 pointsr/splatoon

To my knowledge Nintendo aren't selling one themselves but there are a load you can buy that should work.

I am using this one, UGREEN USB Ethernet , USB Network Adapter - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MYT481C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've had no problems with it and all I had to do was plug it into the Switches dock

u/oakwooden · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I'd like to put this here as a cheaper alternative to the official Nintendo adapter. Haven't had any problems with it, works great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYT481C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/gaso · 2 pointsr/pihole

Yep, running a headless server with no GUI autostarting you're looking at around 50MB if pihole is the only thing running on the device and you're using Raspbian Lite, Minibian, or a similar lite distro.

Honestly I'd get both units, use the old Raspberry Pi to play with the GPIO and programming, and the Pi Zero just for pihole.

I used this adapter, works perfectly fine. A little expensive, but I wanted something that Just Worked....the first batch of generic ethernet adapters I bought were really cheap and really crap.

https://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads/raspbian/

Download the lite version, put a SSH file on it:

>The boot partition on a Pi should be accessible from any machine with an SD card reader, on Windows, Mac, or Linux. If you want to enable SSH, all you need to do is to put a file called ssh in the /boot/ directory. The contents of the file don’t matter: it can contain any text you like, or even nothing at all. When the Pi boots, it looks for this file; if it finds it, it enables SSH and then deletes the file.

Plug everything into your network and turn it on, look for the new device in your DHCP leases in your router. Assign it a fixed lease somewhere easy to remember (as my network is 192.168.8.x, and the router/gateway is 192.168.8.1, I like .2-.10 for servers and other fixed address devices for example).

Connect to rPi with ssh on a linux box, or putty on a windows machine. Log in with the default credentials of pi, raspberry.

sudo apt-get update
sudo apt-get upgrade
sudo apt-get dist-upgrade
change credentials is you wish
sudo reboot now (this get the new IP addy from the router, you could restart networking too)

log back in
curl -sSL https://install.pi-hole.net | bash

If everything goes well, set the new IP addy in the router to be served to your LAN.

Nothing to it huh?

u/cjbravo1 · 2 pointsr/pihole

Get an Micro USB to Ethernet Adapter.
Last thing you want is your wireless DNS Server to go down.

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Compatible-Raspberry-AX88772A/dp/B00RM3KXAU

u/crushendo · 2 pointsr/arduino

Ok, great. So what I'm thinking now is that I would have the Xbee plugged into its grove development board and house those at the top of the tower- that way with the dev board it can be reprogrammed easily, and the dev board can send serial data down the tower without me having to house anything else important up there that might also need maintenance. I would then need to use a micro USB to ethernet adapter, like perhaps this one, to connect ethernet to the board and run it down the tower. From there I could plug ethernet into my Rpi/arduino to read the serial data from the dev board and process/log/send it, or convert back to USB to plug into a laptop for maintenance. Does all of that make sense to do?

My only concern is that the reset/commissioning buttons on the dev board won't be accessible, but then I could always power cycle to reset anyway, so I don't think it will be an issue.

u/suziesamantha · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I don't think you will find what you are looking for. The Cisco console cable has an adapter built into the cable. You cannot just connect the wires from USB directly to an Ethernet cable and have it work. You will have to have an Ethernet adapter. Why not just take something like this and plug an ethernet cable into it and then put heat shrink tubing over the connector. I think that is the closest thing you will find. If you are looking to extend your USB connection over cat5 you will require an adapter for that as well. You could use this and a USB OTG adapter.

If you could give more information on your "specific reasons" that you don't want to use adapters maybe it would help with suggestions that would meet your needs.

u/MiataCory · 2 pointsr/sysadmin

That was my original thought, rPi w/ OLED screen and some batteries (or PoE?)

But I suppose everyone's got a smartphone these days, and $13 is better than $50. (though you may have to root your phone to use it).

u/Smallmammal · 2 pointsr/sysadmin

If you have an android phone that supports USB OTG, you can just use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Micro-B-Ethernet-Raspberry-AX88772A/dp/B00RM3KXAU

u/Stratty88 · 2 pointsr/rasberrypi

This guide can set up a pi as an access point.

The 13th comment down on this comment post works to setup a VPN.

A microusb to ethernet adapter like this one might be useful.

I've setup a VPN on a pi and have that ethernet adapter, so I can answer questions about those, but have never setup a pi as an access point. There's also this guide if you want to skip all that. Feel free to ask any questions.

u/Hobo_RingMaster · 2 pointsr/pihole

I got a Pi Zero and this micro USB ethernet adapter. It has been working flawlessly for over a year now.

u/meatwad75892 · 2 pointsr/nexus6

I played with my Plugable adapter on Nexus 6 and Nexus 7 before leaving it on my Nexus Player permanently. Worked fine, plug & play with no extra steps, should do exactly the same on custom roms of any sort, barring any rom-specific bugs that could possibly mess it up.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RM3KXAU/ref=mp_s_a_1_sc_1?qid=1451779489&sr=8-1-spell&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=mixro+uab+ethernet

u/WhiskeyRider69 · 2 pointsr/chromeos

Do you actually want a docking station, or do you just want an ethernet port and HDMI port?

I have a Pluggable USB 3.0 docking station that I use at the office. It works well, but it isn't USB-C so I have to use an adapter along with it. I believe they have a USB-C version, but I use my docking station for a Windows laptop that only has USB 3.0 on it also.

I have a USB-C Adapter that I carry around with me that offers USB 3.0, HDMI, and pass through USB-C on it. If you look around, you can probably find one that has ethernet in it also.

For ethernet use on the go, I have a USB to Ethernet adapter.

There are lots of options out there below $100. It really depends on what you are trying to accomplish with them.

u/Taubin · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking
u/lol_umadbro · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

/u/scratchfury was probably referring to the older Apple Thunderbolt-to-GigE adapter. Sounds like you've got a USB-C model machine. In that case, Anker has one with decent reviews.

u/noshness · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

>https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Ethernet-Portable-1-Gigabit-Chromebook/dp/B00ZZ6NW5E/ref=cm\_cr\_arp\_d\_product\_top?ie=UTF8

I didn't think I needed any other adapter other than this. Just wanted to make sure it would work. Just to make sure I've got you right, you're saying all I need is this adapter and the driver you provided and I should be good to go?

​

Thanks for the reply (:

u/Peteostro · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

Yes but the Ethernet connection from the computer to the AP. What is that speed 1 gig? If it’s 10/100 your bandwidth restricted

You’d want an Ethernet adapter like this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZZ6NW5E

And you AP needs a gigabit Ethernet port

u/Ubigo · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Would using a USB C to Ethernet adapter work to connect to LAN while in handheld mode?

Something like this:
https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-Ethernet-Including-ChromeBook-Aluminum/dp/B00ZZ6NW5E

u/silverAndroid · 2 pointsr/lgv20

I bought this for my laptop but turns out it works with my phone too but I have to turn WiFi off in order for it to be recognized

u/303onrepeat · 2 pointsr/Ubiquiti

> The issue is that I only have one data port in my living room and it has to connect an Xbox, PlayStation, raspberry pi and smart Tv and I do not want to use a WiFi connection for each.

I got to thinking and there might be a way for you to get all this to work and to bypass the needing too hard wire the ethernet in for the DVR into the network.

So if you don't want to run another home run ethernet line just for the DVR I got to thinking and I remembered ethernet wifi adapters use to be a thing back in the day. You could turn on wifi on the ATT router then use something such as this
https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Ethernet-2-WiFi-Universal-Wireless-GWU637/dp/B018YPWORE
Or pick up an Apple Airport Express (if you want 5Ghz connectivity) and then use wifi to put your DVR to that network. In theory that should get it back on the ATT network, you can put out your unifi switch in the living room and hook everything to it. Then put all the ATT boxes either wirelessly to the same ATT network or use coax.

That should fix everything as long as that ethernet adapter works as it should. Or you might be able to use a cheap power line connector as well.

u/DoctorCorvair · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Rough idea I have is to use a WiFi to Ethernet adaptor to feed into my own router and have my devices connect to my own router, since I cannot normally cascade the routers without an Ethernet connection. Using something like the IOGEAR Ethernet-2-WiFi Universal Wireless Adapter, GWU637 ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018YPWORE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sp6ZAbAT856DJ ).

I think that would work, but not 100% certain as I have not used one before.

u/NotBillNyeScienceGuy · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

A client bridge or something like this: IOGEAR Ethernet-2-WiFi Universal Wireless Adapter, GWU637 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018YPWORE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_q.20Ab6KTZP7M

Best option would be to run hardwired connection

u/phucking_phantastic · 2 pointsr/techsupport

You could try using a CAT5 to WIFI adapter (assuming that adapter supported the network's security methods).

Something like this might work - https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Ethernet-2-WiFi-Universal-Wireless-GWU637/dp/B018YPWORE/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ethernet+to+wifi&qid=1569328089&s=electronics&sr=1-3

u/thelosttech · 2 pointsr/sysadmin

So the printer has ethernet but you don't have a drop for it?

​

You want something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018YPWORE/

u/Fearlesschi · 2 pointsr/buildapc

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/VKQzbX

First of all, the 3600 (and pretty much all of the Zen2 cpu lineup) isn't a very overclockable chip, as it's already pushed pretty hard out of the box. Because of this, an upgraded cooler is rather unhelpful in overall performance. The motherboard was also a bit overkill, so I switched it to a good quality B450 board, which should be plenty for the 3600. It doesn't have WiFi capabilities built in, but you can get a cheap WiFi adaptor from Amazon (like this one https://www.amazon.com/EDUP-ac600Mbps-Wireless-External-10-6-10-13/dp/B01CCMUN8C/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3GXD2I0GBLHR0&keywords=computer+wifi+adapter&qid=1564539704&s=gateway&sprefix=computer+wifi%2Caps%2C142&sr=8-3) for cheaper than an upgrade to a board with WiFi. I also changed the RAM to a cheaper, higher frequency (3200mhz) kit. The gpu was changed to a 5700 XT, as it's much cheaper then a 2070 Super and competes and often surpasses it in performance (see https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-RTX-2070-Super-vs-AMD-RX-5700-XT/4048vs4045) , though you may want to wait a few weeks until non-blower cards come out. If you want to get closer to the $1300 USD limit, you could always go with something like this: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/fpbCmG/evga-geforce-rtx-2080-super-8-gb-black-gaming-video-card-08g-p4-3081-kr

Edit: Turns out a lot of people are having a lot of issues with the Tomahawk, so I'd recommend changing it to this: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Pq97YJ/asrock-fatal1ty-b450-gaming-k4-atx-am4-motherboard-b450-gaming-k4

u/kzintech · 2 pointsr/computertechs

One of the reviews for this one says that Windows 10 will handle it without needing anything else. Can't vouch for the truth of that myself.

​

https://www.amazon.com/EDUP-ac600Mbps-Wireless-External-10-6-10-13/dp/B01CCMUN8C?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2

u/mcbergstedt · 1 pointr/diyelectronics

If you want a Wi-Fi jammer, this video shows a simple way to make one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WevSbnFSvik
(Just know that they're illegal to use in public)

If you want to deauth people, you could just use a laptop running Kali and this wifi dongle:https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484325019&sr=8-1&keywords=tplink+tl-wn722n
You just need to write a script that can search for users connected to the wifi and sends deauth requests to users

u/snailrub · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'm not sure if you've found a solution yet, but I've been using the TP-Link WN722N and it's been able to fully soak up my full bandwidth (about 16 Mbps). Kind of amazing for $13-14.

u/nubsrevenge · 1 pointr/buildapc

that's definitely the best choice, unless you would be using the USB adapter on more than one computer and it's convenient move it around. best PCIe wifi card and a good alternative usb one all because of the external antennas. if you really aren't going to be far you can look at cheaper ones with smaller plastic antennas if you don't like the external antennas, but these are literally the only ones I could find that would connect to my wifi across the house. I even got a 1 foot long plastic antenna but that didn't work...

u/Metastasis007 · 1 pointr/chromeos

What about if im at work and the wifi signal is weak, i dont have access to the router only my samsung chromebook?
I was looking for something like this
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=twister_B00HY63DNE
Would it work?
or this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MX57AO4?psc=1

u/Pr0udN00b · 1 pointr/buildapc

PCIe or USB for wireless internet? I've been looking everywhere and I'm getting mixed results. I have one PCIe slot left on my mobo and I know the router is going to be central in a small off-campus college house, so distance doesn't matter. Right now I'm tempted on getting a USB dongle with antennas because I'm cheap and I get it with Prime same day delivery. Thoughts?

u/Ilovepropanebuffers · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

More than likely just better connectivity and it would have 5ghz which cheaper adapters may not offer, though it's becoming more common. You probably won't see any actual speed increase unless your old adapter was completely saturated, which again is unlikely as most peoples internet isn't nearly good enough to do it. Take this one for example. For $20 you get 150Mbps which most providers like comcast don't even offer options above that.

u/foxalive_ · 1 pointr/AskNetsec

I hear many pentesters talk about Pentoo as the better wireless platform and they recommend the :

tplink TL-WN722N- http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG

and the alfa awus036h- http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Network-Wireless-802-11g-AWUS036H/dp/B000WXSO76

Also if you are into wireless pentesting heres the playlist for the 2014 DefCon Wireless Village Talks: http://www.irongeek.com/i.php?page=videos/defcon-wireless-village-2014/mainlist

u/Gazorpozorpfield · 1 pointr/buildapc

Just get a USB wireless adapter like this one. Unless you have extremely powerful internet, that will do you well. I have a slightly worse one and it goes through 2 walls and a ceiling to get to me. PCI-E adapters are only good for very high speed internet but they take up a lane with far more uses.

u/Noctyrnus · 1 pointr/linuxhardware

I feel your pain. It's almost impossible to find a wifi adapter for 5GHz that works, and you only get the same generic answers from pretty much everyone. All of the ones suggested that work are 2.4 GHz. Unfortunately, that frequency is so cluttered now it hurts your speeds, especially if you're in a condo or townhouse. I can pick up 16 different networks from my living room. I keep hoping someone will provide a 5GHz compatible model.
This is the 2.4GHz model I use: TP-Link N150 Wireless High Gain USB Adapter (TL-WN722N), Version 2.0 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_D7oWAbDH7SG14

u/dearagon · 1 pointr/buildapc

or do you have this one? TL-WN722N

u/McDonaldsQA · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

you going after this? I just picked up one of these and it worked right off the bat on Jessie. Do you have another sd card you can use to try another OS?

and just to verify, did you use something like:

sudo ifconfig wlan1 down

sudo iwconfig wlan1 mode monitor

u/Bastinenz · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Honestly couldn't tell you, but I'm also an advocate of USB wifi dongles, because you get to choose which wifi chipset you use, you get to take the dongle with you when you change your hardware and if reception is kinda shoddy you can use an USB extension cable to try and place it somewhere where reception is better. YMMV of course, but I'd take the USB dongle over the integrated card any day.

P.S. Had a little look around, the cheapest option I found was this:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157746&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566

Which is 60 dollars more than your board. It's got a much better chipset of course, which would allow overclocking if you were to upgrade your CPU, but it's definitely not ideal for your specific build.

If you want to go with a USB dongle instead, I can recommend the TP-Link TL-WN722N N150:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494790790&sr=8-1&keywords=TP-Link+TL-WN722N

It's about 13 USD and it works like a charm, I use it myself to provide a wireless access point for my mobile devices from my desktop.

u/tonyviv · 1 pointr/hometheater

It just depends on your application and needs. There are a lot of decent refurb options under $220 here http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/category/avreceiver/home-audio/receivers-amps/home-theater-receivers/1.html. Personally I'd probably opt for the Onkyo TX-NR525. I have the newer model with built-in wireless networking and BT but you could easily add this USB adapter http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG/ for cheap if you want wireless and/or this BT adapter http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OBCAW2/ if you want BT.

u/vadan1234 · 1 pointr/seytopia

Do you mean to switch it on and off?
Or, do you want to remotely trigger DeAuthing (or other NodeMCU functions)?
If you want to DeAuth remotely, I would recommend getting a USB wifi dongle for Pi that supports it and running a simple script (Dongle: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG Script: https://github.com/DanMcInerney/wifijammer)

u/clipsco · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

I really love the tplink wn722n...
TP-Link N150 Wireless High Gain USB Adapter (TL-WN722N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ua.QybBX8QGEV

u/visidage · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

If you use an internal one you can prevent yourself form installing another GPU, and in some cases (many microatx boards) you can't have a GPU plus any PCI-e 1x device. Get a USB one. They are easier to install, move around for better signal, and can go from pc to pc with no problems. I'd reccomend http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN725N-Wireless-Adapter-Miniature/dp/B008IFXQFU or http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG for cheap ones. The second will have better signal.

u/SirBaronBamboozle · 1 pointr/HowToHack

While there may be cheaper, IMO this is the best bang for your buck. I use it and know others that use it. Works great with Linux, airmon-ng, and wireshark

TP-Link N150 Wireless High Gain USB Adapter (TL-WN722N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0fzozbQ54J4ES

u/nxtreme · 1 pointr/amateurradio

I made something similar using one of these USB WiFi devices, a director and reflector made of copper wire, and a rectangle of plastic from a food container. Worked wonderfully, the quick tests I did showed a ~4 dB signal gain.

u/stevemac00 · 1 pointr/synology

You can add a $15 wifi usb dongle like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_Ynd3CbQS8FQ9Y

i don't know about media station apps but all the apps I use are well engineered and updated.

u/wander-man · 1 pointr/vandwelling

get one of these if wifi signal isn't enough. Was a life saver when I was living in an suv not by choice

u/kasperia · 1 pointr/HowToHack

The one I use is a TP-LINK TL-WN722N and its $12.25 on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG

u/ZiRALiX · 1 pointr/buildapc

tp-link usb wireless adapter

If the one I have failed I'd get another (lasted 2 yrs so far). Low ping, low jitter, no problems. There's nothing more to want.

I think I got it at $10 but it's usually $15.

u/YearOfYoshi · 1 pointr/HelpMeFind
u/The_White_Light · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi
u/ktwoart · 1 pointr/Seattle

For $35, you'll likely be able to find a decent wifi connection if you get a USB wifi adapter and a yagi antenna...and you might not even need the external antenna.

Also, CenturyLink seems to be overwhelmed right now as I've noticed my neighbors complaining about it taking 2-3 weeks to have their land lines repaired as existing customers. I'm not sure if this is due to the holiday or they're rolling out a ton of new gigabit ethernet subscribers and their techs are just that swamped. It seems trivial to turn up or troubleshoot locations with previous or existing service when compared to a new install, so it doesn't make much sense to me.

u/Coconuttommo · 1 pointr/buildapc

just put togther a very simila build. if your not oing to overclock then dont get a 2500K, you will then need to get a cpu cooler also to get the benefit so its really ~£30 more. A small (60GB) SSD on the otherhand is a very god investment to run OS + a few game off.

A wifi adaptr will be required, i dont think there is much performance difference between PCe and USB as I doubt this is where to botteneck is, I just got this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-TL-WN822N-300MBPS-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B003VIY03Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1345121215&sr=8-2

http://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-TL-WN722N-150Mbps-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1345121215&sr=8-3 this was the consenus when someone ased about wifi adapters last week, but I'm open to hear better suggestions

u/MagnusTheRabbit · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Works really well. Range wise is good, and this one can do the monitoring mode if you're into that.

Here's an amazon link for the curious

u/cRaziMan · 1 pointr/buildapc

TP-Link TL-WN722N Wireless USB Adapter seems to have gotten amazing reviews so I've ordered it.

I can't compare it to others or even tell you what this one is like because I've not actually got it yet.

u/DZCreeper · 1 pointr/buildapc

Don't get that one. It came out before 802.11n was official, meaning that it is a old model from the draft days.

Get this instead if you can: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG/

u/zsaile · 1 pointr/techsupport

> WUSB6300

I dont think that USB card is supported. I have a card with the same chipset "RTL8812AU" however i was not able to get it work in Linux for this purpose.

You'd need to purchase a card compatible with Kali and airodump such as this(2.4 ghz only) or have a look here

Once you have one of these you'd need to install Kali linux on your laptop, or more easily boot it up using VMware player.

Once you have kali, plug in your USB card and pass it through to the VM using the VMware "removable devices" menu.

In linux fire up a vm and run the following commands:

> Unlock the cards

rfkill unblock all

> Check which interface the card uses

airmon-ng

> Kill any processes whic might interfere

airmon-ng check kill

> place the card into monitor mode, assuming your card is wlan0, replace with the name you find above

airmong-ng start wlan0

> This should place the card in monitor mode, and rename it something like wlan0mon. Now scan the entire 2.4 ghz band to find the channel your router is on

airodump-ng --band g wlan0mon

> From this list which comes up, find the channel which your SSID is on in the list, then run airodump-ng with the specific channel, for example channel 11

airodump-ng -c 11 wlan0mon

> Now your card is in monitor mode, and scanning channel 11. Now you can fire up wireshark to see whats happening. Boot up wireshark through the menu or cli, and then start a capture on your card wlan0mon. Once you see the packets coming through, in wireshark enter the following filter to see only deauth frames

wlan.fc.type_subtype eq 12

You should now see deauth frames which are coming over the air to any clients.

Let me know if you have any issue or questions if you do try this.

u/bbdale · 1 pointr/hackintosh

I have this thing, hasn't failed me yet.

I dunno if its the best one out there but it works well in both Windows and Linux, so presume it should work in Mac as well. Picked it up for basically nothing when Newegg Randomly gave me a $10 gift card a little while back.

u/Boxdog · 1 pointr/linuxmint

I have been using this with Lenovo Yoga 13 and Mint 18, it sticks out a little bit more than I would like but it works. no setup

u/eclark5483 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I have several suggestions for that. On the USB side, go with a TP-Link TL-WN722N: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SZEOLG (install only the drivers, use the website's version, not the disc)

In addition to that, pick up one of these no matter which of the options I show you, you'll thank yourself over and over: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UBUE2O

Next, on the PCI front, you'll want to use a NETIS WF-2118 300Mbps Wireless N PCI Adapter: https://www.newegg.com//p/N82E16833389021

Unless, by PCI you mean PCI-E, then in that case, get a FebSmart Wireless AC 1200Mbps Dual Band PCI Express (PCIe) Wi-Fi Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DBPLXWK

And again, no matter which you choose, pick up the high gain antenna(s) to go along with it, be sure to report back too, wanna see what you gained, and good luck. My daughter had the same trouble at college with her laptop, the high gain antenna fixed her right up. This might just be your only problem, hard to say.

u/Skatchan · 1 pointr/buildapc

And I am finished. Don't you dare make any alterations to this as by the time you have I will have ordered it.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD FX-6300 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor | £87.59 @ Aria PC
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-78LMT-USB3 Micro ATX AM3+ Motherboard | £38.65 @ CCL Computers
Memory | GeIL Enhance CORSA 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | £40.99 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | £49.32 @ Scan.co.uk
Video Card | Asus GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card | £220.79 @ Overclockers.co.uk
Case | Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case | £34.98 @ Novatech
Power Supply | XFX 450W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply | £34.99 @ Maplin Electronics
Optical Drive | Samsung SN-208DB/BEBET DVD/CD Writer | £9.99 @ Amazon UK
Monitor | LG E2242T-BN 21.5" Monitor | £91.53 @ Amazon UK
Keyboard | Gigabyte GK-KM6150 Wired Standard Keyboard w/Optical Mouse | £9.06 @ Scan.co.uk
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | £617.89
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-28 20:21 BST+0100 |

u/Metaxu · 1 pointr/hacking

Let's get down to buisness.

First off you need to start with your wireless card. What operating system are you running on? Kali Linux is a great OS to run off a thumb drive (Or Nexus, Or rasperry pi even) and it comes with all the programs you need to get going. The card you have needs to support monitor mode and packet injection in order to crack a pass. I know that the TP-Link TL-WN722N works well for this. Find a site to check the model of your current card and look for monitor mode capabilties and packet injection support.

Next we need to boot into kali linux. Kali has a fantastic amount of programs for you to use and im going to leave it up to you. It's a matter of preference. Also worth noting, in a unix terminal the command
ifconfig
can find the name of your wireless adapter (wlan0, wlan1, ect ect).

You wont have any issues trying to crack a password which is protected by WEP but WPA might give you some difficulty. Also dont forget to slow down and take some time to learn about what you're really doing! Thats the only way to really learn. Hope this helps.

u/_OblivioN_ · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I would recommend GIGABYTE Model GC-WB867D-I. I've been using it for almost 5 months now and it has performed so much better than this cheap usb wifi adapter I had for a short time. On the Gigabyte, downloading on 5 GHz, it will be at a constant 30 to 35 Mbps. Whereas on the usb adapter, downloading on 2.4 GHz, it would constantly bounce from 30 Mbps to 5 Mbps. Really annoying when playing online with the ping jumping from 45 ms to 500 ms. My router probably plays a roll in this, but ill be switiching to a AC router soon.

Back to the Gigabyte, the wifi chipset is the Intel AC 7260 that supports 2.4 Ghz and 5 Ghz and Bluetooth 4.0. The 7260 a mini pcie, which fits in a laptop. You can buy just the Intel AC 7260 itself, but for a couple dollars extra, you get a black mini pcie to pcie adapter of you want to use it on a desktop.

u/LegendaryRav · 1 pointr/techsupport

Is there any chance you can get the exact name of your wireless card? you can simply go to the maker's website and try updating your drivers.

Also I'd like to know the motherboard, its hard to tell now whether you have a dedicated wireless card, or you're using one thats built into your motherboard.

As for my recommendations you should definitley stay on rj45 if you plan on doing any fps games or anything that require low ping, but if you need a replacement if wifi is the only option, you can go for this or this (depending how much gain from the antennae you need).

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WDN4800-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1426397992&sr=1-1&keywords=wireless+adapter

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1426397941&sr=8-16&keywords=wireless+adapter

u/rontor · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'm fond of this one if you don't mind USB.

u/thorinokenshield · 1 pointr/tails

I use the following TP-Link adapter. On amzon its $12.99, however I bought it locally under $`10. Best idea to buy from a local shop with cash rather than credit card. This will help you by not having any trail of purhasing the device if things go wrong with your Tails use.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN722N-Wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_5/136-3697593-4574145?ie=UTF8&qid=1526568345&sr=8-5&keywords=tp-link+wireless+adapter

I am using it with Mac and it's working good. The only drawback is it's Wifi-N not AC.

u/StinkyTurd89 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace
u/Axx06 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I use This one from TP link. If you want one that goes in your PC, they have a version of this one for that.

u/Dalilbumb · 1 pointr/tails

I use this one and it works perfectly

TP-Link N150

u/marginflex · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Okay thank you. Can you please explain to me the differences between the TP-LINK Archer C7, the C5, the Nighthawk AC5300, and the Nighthawk R7000?

In addition to one of the above routers, I will get two of these TP-Link Dongles for the two S400CA's and change my network to 5GHZ.

Does this set-up make sense?

u/Britacorn · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

So I was thinking about buying this wireless adapter: http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B002SZEOLG?keywords=TL-WN722N%20Wireless%20N150%20wireless%20adapters&qid=1450320774&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
I get about 5 mbps on my current laptop . I play games and I was wondering if this is going to decrease my internet performance in any way. Im about 30 feet away from my router

u/kaosctrl510 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I've tried running a 100-ft ethernet cable from my PC to the router. At first, I wanted to test it. So in the living room, you could just see a giant pile of wire that connected from my room to the room where the router is. If it worked out well, I was going to have it "installed properly", but after a few days, it just stopped working.

I am using this wifi adapter for my PC. The router my family uses is from AT&T, which I'm pretty sure is this one.

u/arbitrarytext · 1 pointr/buildapc

Could someone recommend a PCI Express card that's equal or better than this TP-LINK TL-WN722N? I need it for Kali Linux.

u/SiliconeClone · 1 pointr/3DS

The TP-Link WN722N is working for me. I literally set this up three days ago and it is working awesome.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SZEOLG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/ImAnEnabler · 1 pointr/hacking

get a TP-LINK TL-WN722N. I've been using it for a while and am very happy with it.

u/OnlineDegen · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Thanks! I checked out that product on Amazon. It seemed to have mixed reviews, but this one also seemed pretty good: http://amzn.com/B002SZEOLG

TP Link TL-WN722N

I figured I'd post in case this comes up in a search someone else does in the future. They may find this helpful.

u/mathematicool · 1 pointr/buildapc

The CPU cooler is very pricey. Unless you want to be doing some serious overclocking or running really low temps, then you can save quite a bit on a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus or Evo.

Similarly with the PSU. Are you sure you want a modular PSU (i.e. you only plug in the cables you need.) If not, then something like this is cheaper and offers plenty of overhead for future crossfiring.

You will need to buy a PCI wireless card, you could get a USB one, but they're not as good. They're very cheap though.

P.S. I just bought that video card from dabs.com and although it hasn't arrived yet so I can't comment on the card itself, you can get it for £210 with the code SEPT10 and you also get a couple of free games, which makes it pretty good value for money.

u/Badmadbrad · 1 pointr/buildapc

I did install one and installed drivers, but I hoped it was that so removed it and removed drivers. I may not have removed all the drivers as windows installed one and then I installed one from the website.

I bought this one

here's a screenshot of my device manager did I leave a driver behind?

u/grelphy · 1 pointr/shittybattlestations

Ooh, laptop-as-wifi-bridge! I've done that. It works okay, definitely better than nothing.

If you're expecting to make it permanent, you should probably invest in one of these freakishly useful buggers, which is way more compact than your laptop and also not your laptop. Alternatively, you can get a PCIE wifi card for your desktop, though that's a less flexible solution.

u/hawaiian717 · 1 pointr/chartercable

The router should have one or more Ethernet ports on it. If only one, connect a switch to the router and then run an Ethernet cable to your room. But that's messy. If the router and your computer has wifi, use that. If the router doesn't have wifi, get a wifi access point and connect it to the router with Ethernet. If your computer doesn't have wifi, either add a wifi card if you have a free PCI slot (something like this), or use an Ethernet to Wifi adapter (something like this).

Note the products I'm linking are just examples I found with a quick search, I don't know if there are better/cheaper ones out there and I don't have any personal experience with these particular products.

u/JakeBlo · 1 pointr/buildapc

Talking about wifi card, i've been looking into it.
Some have ugly antennas in the back, Some don't
I currently have a nano wifi key that works perfectly fine.
Any reason i shouldn't pick the antenna-less one ?

u/samwalton9 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I don't know a huge amount about different wireless cards but I have this card and it's worked perfectly for me.

u/BackPlateGuy · 1 pointr/buildmeapc

considering this is for a beginner, this is a pretty 'advanced' build.

IMO they shouldn't be striving for overclocking their CPU, chances are neither of them fully understand it. They could save some money, skip the cpu cooler and thermal compound, and maybe get that 1440p monitor.

here is a tplink wifi adapter for $12 instead of the $30 one you linked. I mean we should verify with OP but I'd be surprised if they needed over 100mb/s...let alone 800+ that the gigabyte adapter you linked supports.

Could also just get the i5-6500 and save some more money there.

That's like $60 in savings that could go towards a bigger SSD than 60gb (which I think is necessary for a beginner who probably isn't too accustomed to changing file paths for literally everything)



u/ProJoh · 1 pointr/buildapc

I would have chosen this one . Compare them and see which one you like.

Also, this card looks pretty good if you don't mind the money. I don't have a first had experience with it like I do with the rosewill.

If you want one that works almost as well but slower consider this one. Once again I'm only suggesting these from reviews/stats. Hope I helped you, and good luck with your build.

u/double_shadow · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Yeah, getting a card is my next step if needed, but I'm hoping not to spend too much.

Here is the USB adapter I'm currently using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KV9TQXM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If I get a cheap card like this one (https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Adapter-TL-WN781ND/dp/B0036AFAEW/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1480532133&sr=1-7&keywords=wireless+card), will it still get decent results? I don't want to throw down $60 for one of the higher end ones if I can avoid it.

u/ynottry · 1 pointr/buildapc

I posted a question yesterday which didn't get much attention so I will post it here. While I really appreciate the user who did respond, I always appreciate multiple peoples view points.


For a desktop wireless card will the TP-Link 150 mbps do or do I require a card with more antennae. The Desktop will be a few rooms away from the router; the laptop I use works well from this room with its internal wifi card. It is only for use of a 3 mbps DSL internet so I don't think the bandwidth will be a problem.

u/lucadem1313 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace
u/Hey_Papito · 1 pointr/hackintosh

>TL-WN881ND

How do i know if it's not realtek? I bought it from amazon here https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B0036AFAEW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Giraffe_Dude · 1 pointr/buildapc

Can you tell me if this
would work as well?

u/thorskicoach · 1 pointr/hometheater

https://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET30DP-10-Inch-Extender-Cables/dp/B003LZA95W

then if you can fish a 3rd cable, you can do USB over that... allegedly, with https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Extender-CAT5E-Connection-150ft/dp/B003L14ZTC

be aware with USB as depending on the speed (USB 2.0 480MBit) it may not like being >5m in the USB spec for timing etc. It might speed bumb down to like the 11Mbits, which is fine for a remote which probably connects only at that anyway.

If you want file access for movies, use ethernet for ethernet!

u/Dstanding · 1 pointr/buildapc

One, and two.

I can't speak for latency, though.

u/thisadviceisworthles · 1 pointr/homelab

25 Feet is well within the HDMI spec. That plus an active USB cable leading to a hub. Just run as many HDMI cables as monitors.

But what if it is out of the reach of HDMI, or if you already have Cat6 lines run to where you want to use it.

Solution (For under $200):
HDMI Balun (4)
Amazon

USB over Ethernet
Amazon

u/triplebeamz · 1 pointr/LaserDock

honestly, easiest is just a bluetooth gamepad or keyboard and map all your keys. i did this in a WHL sized hockey arena and was able to control the laser anywher ein the place pretty much.

for true wireless control i have had success using a raspberry pi zero.. running "VirtualUSB" server.

Then on a PC (on the same wifi network) isntall the irtualhere client nd you will be ale to cntrol it as if you are connected.

fr me insewad of connecting both to wifi,, i enabled wifi sharing on my wndows 10 p, and conencted the Pi direct to that AP.. worked much better for me than through using a router..... i would suggest a raspberry pi 3 over raspi zero, it jsut isnt fast enough i think...

i set up a tutorial somewhere in this reddit to tell u how to set it all up
honestly, AVOID WIFI. especially n a professional/semi pro environment like a gig... as the venue fills,, you have to think about all the interference everyone else's phones will have.. adding latency to you our own connections, and severely affecting your scanrate.
in my tests some of the scanrates seemed so low i was actually worried about damage to the servos...

your best bet for long distance from control pc to laser, is nothing more than a usb over cat6 extender.. they are cheap and allow you to connect upt to 150' ethernet cable.
https://www.amazon.ca/Monoprice-Extender-Connection-150-Feet-106042/dp/B003L14ZTC works fine, even cheaper clnes work fine as well (as long as they are not DOA)

u/Enlightenment777 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

If you have an Arduino with a USB connection, then it's going to be harder to extend the distance, because it's a USB issue, instead of an Arduino issue. There are commercial solutions to extend USB, such as USB to ethernet to USB, or USB to fiber optics to USB, or other concepts. Some solutions are expensive, some cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Extender-CAT5E-Connection-150ft/dp/B003L14ZTC

If you use another type of Arduino that doesn't have integrated USB, then you could use RS485 / RS422 / RS232 / alternate async transport, then convert back to UART connection to connect to the Arduino.

https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardPro

You could use an RS232 extender, similar to the top concept.

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=3598

u/sgruby · 1 pointr/homeassistant

I moved from a Vera Edge to an Aeotec stick and haven't been happier. I'm running HA on VMWare Fusion. If you go this route, check out this article on how to get the USB stick to always reconnect when your VM restarts. My Vera served me well for 5 years (I had a Vera Lite before the Edge), but I always got nervous with their firmware updates as it was all a black box that sometimes just stopped working and I couldn't figure out why.

​

I find that things are more responsive with the stick directly on HA. As others have mentioned, being able to get under the hood is also a plus for me as I had no idea what Vera was doing sometimes. I'm using just about all Leviton devices and they work fine. The only device I still haven't been able to pair on HA (that worked on Vera) is an old Wayne Dalton Homelink to Z-Wave bridge. The devices that really gave me trouble that I had no problems with Vera are Leviton VRCZ4-M0Z in-wall controllers. However, after a bit of tinkering, I figured it out and wrote a blog entry about it.

​

If you have problems with pairing and need the stick closer to your devices, consider a USB over Cat6 extender. You plug one end into the computer, plug the stick into the other and run Cat6 between them. I used a similar product (not the Monoprice one, but one I've had for 9 years or so) and it worked fine.

​

As for PIN codes, they are easy to handle. With the current version of HA, you don't use the Open Z-Wave control panel, but go into the Z-Wave configuration for HA, select your lock, scroll down and look at the Node user codes. You select a code slot, enter the code (in HEX) and hit Set Usercode. It's pretty straight forward; just make sure you secure add the locks otherwise you won't be able to set the codes.

​

Good luck!

u/Eisenstein · 1 pointr/techsupport

Well, good news is that the idea I tossed out to use CAT6 cable to do it has be done for you, if you want to buy some cheap adapters:

u/fl3abag · 1 pointr/sysadmin

You're getting HDMI over ethernet, why not USB over ethernet?

*I haven't used these types of products yet.

u/w2tpmf · 1 pointr/computers

They make extenders to run both USB and HDMI over a cay5 network cable.

Another option would be to leave your computer where it is and get some tubing to vent your computer's heat out of the room.

u/primeski · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

This was already mentioned but I'm using these currently, it's USB over about 100 feet, but don't go any more than 150 if you can help it. http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Extender-CAT5E-Connection-150ft/dp/B003L14ZTC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451270021&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+over+ethernet+adapters

u/nashkara · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Yeah, mix the POE with a device like this (first one I found on Amazon) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L14ZTC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ndsgyb5Z57EHY


That should get the power there. Of course, the splitter is bigger that the entire Multisensor device.

u/txhackerz · 1 pointr/homeautomation

It's powered by usb right?
Don't see why something like this wouldn't work

Monoprice USB Extender over CAT5E or CAT6 Connection up to 150ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L14ZTC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ndsgyb5Z57EHY

u/Lurking_Grue · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I suppose you could just add one more cat 5 cable and use one of these for the controller and reduce the lag:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L14ZTC?keywords=usb%20over%20ethernet%20adapter&qid=1448942599&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

u/okpgreg · 1 pointr/htpc

Thanks for the follow-up. I ended up going with this cat5/6 extender: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L14ZTC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 so hopefully it will work out. My turn to post a follow up when I get some results!

u/obxSandDevil · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Something like this

Alternatively you can use a wifi repeater/extender like me, and plug in an Ethernet cord directly to that.

u/redditwenttoshit · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I think it you're right: https://support.speedify.com/article/117-how-to-combine-two-wi-fi-internet-connections

Of course, now I need to buy 3 of these to really maximize my "wifi hunt": https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1519176898&sr=1-6&keywords=usb+wifi+adapter

I was hoping there's some kind of standalone device that would do this but hey, this is a start. Thanks!

u/pinkfloyd52998 · 1 pointr/hackintosh

Here's the one I used. Worked like a dream, just have to use the drivers off their website

u/Pi-Top · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Well the sooner you get started the better then!


In terms of using a laptop for the keyboard, mouse and screen by connecting it via the ethernet cable, it can be a bit slow and laggy so I would recommend just setting it up with a USB keyboard/mouse and HDMI screen (and then you have the ethernet port free to easily connect to the web).


It's not actually an emulator when you use an ethernet cable either (it uses a VNC server and VNC viewer, Google what these mean for more info), so if you ever do this in the future there is no loss in functionality as you are still controlling and viewing the Raspberry Pi (like I said, there's just a bit of delay when using it).


For wifi, I would recommend the Redimax one as it's fully compatible with the Pi. Here is a well written guide for setting it up.


Yes, you could fry the Pi if wiring it incorrectly! The GPIO pins have a maximum tolerable voltage of 3.3 V, so putting anything higher on them will likely do some damage (so a simple rule is stay away from connecting the 5 V output to any circuitry you build). Don't be afraid to ask people on here to check over your circuits, and you can also PM me if you need any advise.


But the good thing is, the Pi is a pretty cheap device so if you do blow it up it won't be too much to replace :P

u/RTukka · 1 pointr/buildapc

Maybe a cheap USB wifi adapter. I've got this one for my living room PC and it works fine. I think I am done with PCI network adapters. It is USB wifi, powerline networking or a direct ethernet connection for me.

u/aquasport_owner · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

This is one of the more popular dongles, but, no antenna, so depending on how far you are trying to pull in or transmit signals...

u/ElusiveRaccoon · 1 pointr/techsupport

I'm sorry I'm not very tech savvy. Do you mean something like this? http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-Adapter-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=lp_13983791_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1407717689&sr=1-1

If that is the case, would I plug that into my computer? How would I get a connection if hardwire connection is the only available option? The dorms do not provide wireless.

u/Lagduf · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

This Edimax WiFi adapter works out of the box. I've used it on Raspbian and OpenElec.

Here is a step by step tutorial to get DOOM on your Pi

u/ABebout · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

The cheapest thing on my list is a Edimax EW-7811Un 150M 11n Wi-Fi USB Adapter at $8.95.

u/TsuDoughNym · 1 pointr/linux4noobs

I use the Edimax Wireless N adapter if I need one with guaranteed Linux support -- can confirm it's worked without issue on at least 5 different physical systems, varying between Linux and Windows.

I also have a ZyDas ZD1211 adapter that we used in my networking class for packet injection/wireless sniffing, so that's also got good compatibility.

u/Magnetic_Tree · 1 pointr/buildapc

Yeah, I'd bet most adapters work at their peak speeds from like 0 to 40 C.

Example: this one is rated for 0 to 40 C

u/aziridine86 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Getting a WiFi card that has multiple large antennas can help with a weak signal.

If you get something tiny like this its ability to work with a weak signal is going to be a lot worse.

u/captainfisty2 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I am not 100 percent sure about this, but if I were you, I would drop the internal wireless card and get this instead. I had an internal wireless card for a long time and have not noticed a performance difference after I "upgraded" to the usb wifi adapter. My interwebs were about 20 Mb/s and the pings on online games were the same before and after the swap(50ish ms). It may be that the USB adapter caps at some point, but i'm to lazy to do the research right now. The only real downside I see is that you would be effectively loosing a USB port. Saves you 30 ish bucks.

EDIT: Also, if you like to save money cause you are poor like me, you might want to consider downgrading your CPU if you plan on getting the 960. I have an i5 4460 with an r9 390 and I think it pairs really well (i.e. no bottleneck). If all we have to look at is the size of yellow bars, the i5 4460 and the i5 6500 appear to be roughly the same power according to this. So you might be able to save a little bit of money and get the same performance if you downgrade the CPU a bit. Keep in mind that upgrading later on might cost a bit more, because you will need to upgrade the CPU for a better card. Also keep in mind that I am not as knowledgeable about these things as others and it might very well be that the 960 and the i5 6500 are a match made in heaven.

u/hexalellogram · 1 pointr/VintageApple

Would a USB dongle such as this work? The drivers on their website go all the way down to 10.4, but it is USB 2.0. Will it work on the iBook's USB 1.1 ports?

u/Dogexecutive · 1 pointr/dogemarket

Look, the price is still too high. You are asking for $60 worth of doge for $50 worth of used hardware.

RasPi B+ model $30

16 GB SanDisk microsd $10

Aluminum Heatsink $2

Edimax USB NIC $10

Total: $52

Also, look around for the past trades of pi's. They really don't go for that much.

u/josephlucas · 1 pointr/applehelp

Simplest solution would be to just get one of those nano-wifi USB adapters and use that. You do lose access to a USB port though.

https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/

u/AgentxLeavening · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Butts are super funny!

This wifi dongle is something I've needed for my Raspberry Pi, but never got around to purchasing because I have been needing the funds elsewhere lately.

u/BeerXine895 · 1 pointr/PrintrBot

Nope. It was easy to install and its really easy to print from. If your comfy following some simple instructions using the command line you'll be fine. I still slice with Slic3r, I just use the stand alone program then upload the gcode to Octoprint.

By default the Octoprint package from Printrbot expects you to plug in a Ethernet cable so I would recommend getting a Edimax Wireless USB Adapter so the whole thing is actually wireless. The process for setting up this USB adapter with the Rasp Pi and Octoprint is pretty well documented. This way the only two cables you have are one USB for power to the Rasp Pi, and another USB going to the back of the Printrbot.

u/Americonfusion · 1 pointr/litecoinmining

I use these for wifi on all my rigs, work great and they are nice and cheap. I used one on my desktop for about 2 years before I started mining and now that same one is in a mining rig with no issues.

u/TheHomey · 1 pointr/buildapc

This or This should be fine, glad to help

u/GTPC · 1 pointr/buildapc

You can get a PCIe wifi adapter and load up their drivers and such and connect via wifi. You can also use a USB wifi adapter, I don't know if one's better than the other, but I prefer PCIe.

If you want wired, you can get a Powerline adapter, which lets you connect wired/wireless by plugging it in to an electrical socket and pairing it with another adapter, I don't know the details of it (I'm planning to get one), so further research won't be bad.

u/hooch · 1 pointr/techsupport

Buy this wifi adapter for your laptop. You can set up either wifi adapter as an ad-hoc network and both should be able to connect to the internet. I use this exact setup to get my phone on wifi while I'm at work instead of using data.

u/tangentZero · 1 pointr/Android

If your PC has wifi set up an adhoc network. Tutorial here

If you don't have wifi, maybe you'd want to invest in one of those USB wifi sticks like this one

u/sagnessagiel · 1 pointr/thinkpad

No don't worry, you gave me some useful info. (I used to think that the WiFi issue was something wrong with Linux, but now I know that it's an actual hardware problem)

From what I hear, there is nothing wrong with your computer, just with the wireless chip. I have a Thinkpad Edge myself, and it's fine for me.

Next time you should probably buy a Thinkpad T series used on eBay if you want to save a buck. It sounds crazy, but yes, they are that reliable.

Since I can't find the chip that works with your computer, just go the easy way and use this dongle for $11:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_us?ie=UTF8

u/1337_n00b · 1 pointr/thinkpad

I just want the best card I can get, but I'm having some problems figuring out which one that would be ...

Someone suggested this USB adapter which would let me stay clear of BIOS tinkering. Seems like a good solution to me?

u/lbaile200 · 1 pointr/linuxquestions

This is what's worked on my pi and has been supported in every linux distro I've ever used OOTB.

u/tomdking · 1 pointr/techsupport

Could you recommend one?
These are what I have tried
ASUS N150 &
Edimax EW-7811

u/Pomnom · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

this works with linux natively (I have it on my raspberry) but if you want something a little cheaper I bought this for my brother's laptop a while back and it's still working.

u/Sir_not_sir · 1 pointr/linuxquestions

I've got an Edimax N dongle that is the only one I haven't had to install drivers for in years. It's faster than B/G but very range dependent. The closer you are the faster it will be.

u/hoyfkd · 1 pointr/computing

I think it depends on what kind of router you have. If your router is old as well, getting the latest, greatest, most expensive dongle might not be what you need.

If you are not sure what speed your router is, I would start out by trying the Edimax which is a tiny USB dongle that won't stick out of your laptop, and can do N speeds (WAY faster than your G speed) so long as your router can supply those speeds. Also, it's less than 10 bucks!

u/_Sway · 1 pointr/DarkNetMarketsNoobs

Tails comes pre-installed with common and generic drivers already. You shouldn't use a WiFi adapter that you have to install third party drivers for.

Since Tails is specifically configured to minimize security vulnerabilities. It doesn't come included with many drivers. Since drivers provide another surface an attacker could utilize to compromise your computer.


I would advise using this wifi adapter that work out of the box in tails and doesn't require any driver installation onto your persistence:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ieS4xb6TWAE2X

u/HangsAround · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

> http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/raspberry-pi-board-and-starter-kit-r45pi
That's quite pricey for the stuff you get:

• Raspberry PI Model B
£24.10

• 4 GB SD Card (Pre-loaded with the latest pre-approved OS)
£4.99 - not preloaded, but seriously, who cares, that's half the fun.

• Mains Powered 4 Port USB Hub (Increases the number of available ports to 5)
£10 (for a 7 port one) http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Pi-Hut-Powered-Raspberry/dp/B00B0ZOCPS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1404229572&sr=1-1&keywords=powered+hub


• N150 Wi-Fi USB Nano Dongle
£7.30 for EDIMAX that works well (amazon)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Edimax-EW-7811UN-150Mbps-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1404229616&sr=1-1&keywords=edimax+wifi

• USB Keyboard
• USB Optical 3-Button Scroll Mouse

£9 for a very very low end mouse/kbd combo on amazon (maplin will be giving you low-end)

• 1.5 m USB A to Micro B Cable with Gold-Plated Connectors

£0.63 (amazon)

• 1.5 m HDMI A to HDMI A Cable with Gold-Plated Connectors (To connect your Raspberry Pi to your HD
TV/Monitor)
£1.19


A total of £57.22 if you source all this from amazon.
probably qualifies for free delivery too with all that.

u/deusnefum · 1 pointr/archlinux

Buy this $8 dongle. Always nice to have a spare around for testing/debugging.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=psdc_13983791_t1_B06XSFPDFX

u/neetoday · 1 pointr/Amd

Understood. You might consider buying a USB wifi adapter like this. It's probably less hassle than waiting for ASRock/Microsoft/AMD to fix it or returning everything for a different mobo.

u/Se7enLC · 1 pointr/linuxquestions

There are a lot of inexpensive USB WiFi adapters that have good Linux support right out of the box.

If it was a laptop with built-in WiFi, I'd say it's worth spending time and effort trying to get it working, but since it's a desktop and you want to be able to use a live distro, it's well worth the $10 or less to just get a well-supported WiFi adapter.

Example: https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1517933154&sr=8-18

u/shoryaku · 1 pointr/techsupport

Do you mean Wi-Fi adapter like like this?

u/MicroGamer · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

As everyone has already said, most MoBo's do not come with WiFi other than the higher end ones. This is a great cheap adapter I've used for years.

u/delta301 · 1 pointr/techsupport

Um, I really don't understand what you mean... Do you have an ethernet cable going directly from your motherboard's ethernet socket, directly into one of the router's ports?

If the answer is no, you're gonna need to send pics of the setup so I can see what you're talking about

You must've been using a weird wifi dongle, the one I have is capable of 150mbps throughput. The one I'm thinking of is this:

https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491680576&sr=8-1&keywords=edimax

If it's an network setting thats been accidentally changed to limit your speed then I would simply reset your network card to factory settings on Windows.

  • Go into Device manager and find your Ethernet controller underneath Network adapters. Right click and hit Uninstall.
  • Make sure to keep the drivers installed if it asks you, as you will of course need them.
  • Let it uninstall its shit, and then when its done, right click and select Scan for hardware changes. It should pop back up.

    Restart your computer. Hopefully this should be your network settings reset, let me know what happens
u/9w9 · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

stupid question, for that i either need an ethernet connection or one of these (and have both be on the wifi)?

And I assume that IP does not change, no matter to what computer I connect (so i can write it on the case)?

So I would just use a 16gb sd card, if that is full I could this way just delete a few roms and add a few new ones. Sounds good.

Thanks

u/LingonberryPancakes · 1 pointr/thinkpad

I'm the guy who nearly tossed my x201 (2.67 Ghz i7 with turbo boost up to 3.3Ghz, 8gb ram, 256 gb SSD). About 6 months ago it started over-heating to the point of dying every twenty minutes. I had to have one of these monsters attached to the vent whenever I used it. That vacuum fan was a big hassle to carry around and meant I was 1 USB port down. About 3 months ago the internal wifi card stopped working so I bought one of these. Those tiny usb wifi cards suck because the antenna is so small, and that also meant I was another USB port down. Finally, the plastic door to my hard-drive bay cracked so my hard-drive kept slipping out in my back-pack.

I ended up buying thermal paste on amazon (~$10), a new wifi chip on ebay (~$8), a new fan (~$5) and a new hard-drive door (~$6). It took me about 3 hours to take the laptop apart, and another two to put it back together. I re-pasted the CPU, replaced the fan (just to be safe... the old one worked fine), and installed the new wifi card. I had to completely disassemble twice after completely re-assembling it (god that sucked) first because the power-port wasn't aligned with the chassis and plug would not go into the laptop, and second because I didn't run the wifi antenna cables very well. I still need to buy and install a new thermal pad for the GPU - I didn't order one because I didn't expect to find one in there (thought it would be all paste). The current GPU thermal pad is cracked and aging.

Anyway, now my x201 is back together and working like a charm. Wifi signal is great, and it runs nice and cool (~40 degrees idle - it's still breaking in). Ran 20 cycles of IntelBurnTest on "High" and it passed with flying colors. I have all of my USB ports available, battery lasts longer. And the SSD doesn't slip out of the bay all the time. All in all, definitely worth the effort and minimal money! Here she is in all her ThinkPad glory.

u/Linuxllc · 1 pointr/linux4noobs

So does your wifi work on other Linux distro's?

If so then your wifi will work in any Linux distro. You just have to use the exact package/libraries and drivers of the Linux distro that your wifi work in.

Give me your wifi info and I can find the right drivers for you to use in Ubuntu.

http://askubuntu.com/questions/333424/how-can-i-check-the-information-of-currently-installed-wifi-drivers

https://help.ubuntu.com/community/WifiDocs/WiFiHowTo

And if your wifi isn't working right in any Linux distro. Then just use a USB nano wifi adaptor that works in Linux. http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY

u/JustHAAAVE · 1 pointr/tails

That was happening with my XPS 13 9350 I just got. The workaround for that was simply to update the BIOS driver and then I got through. However it then requires the purchase of a wireless adapter that TAILS will recognize, as the built in wireless adapter isn't recognized by TAILS.

Assuming a BIOS update can push you past the bluescreen and assuming your wireless card isn't recognized, buy this little guy:

http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/

I haven't gotten mine yet since I just ordered it today, but another user with the same problem and computer as me (they were also the one who figured out the BIOS update) said it fixed everything. And that same wireless adapter has worked for others when TAILS wouldn't recognize the built in wireless adapter.

Hopefully this will help.

u/irishsofabread · 1 pointr/buildapc

This is the thing I got I wouldn't necessarily call it a card lol http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/

u/grevenilvec75 · 1 pointr/windows

I've used this one before.

I'm sure there are better ones. Wal-Mart might sell them, but dunno for sure.

Can you not use ethernet? I can't imagine your motherboard doesnt have an ethernet port.

u/bobstro · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

I'm simply using a tiny OTG adapter sold by Adafruit and a supported USB wifi adapter. Of course, you've now increased the price of your Zero by $5-15. If you want wired Ethernet, Adafruit also sells a microUSB OTG Ethernet+USB hub adapter.

u/andysaurus_rex · 1 pointr/buildapc

There's another option which is DS4Windows which is a 3rd party software that makes your DS4 controller appear as a standard controller to Windows. All you need is a little bluetooth dongle or if your PC already has bluetooth, nothing at all.

I like DS4Windows because it gives you some extra customization tools.

u/007ghg7 · 1 pointr/lightingdesign

I have actually been tempted on buying a pi zero to cut the size down , if I could get one I would end up 3d printing an enclosure that everything would fit into for a belt pack.

also, the wifi dongle is pretty cheap on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/

u/Shorttail0 · 1 pointr/Amd

I found an unboxing video which clearly shows an m.2 expansion slot with the other IO, but I can't find a good picture of the IO shield. I found an Intel card, but it seems to come with neither antennas nor pigtails. How much does the motherboard supply? Surely the IO shield must have something the antennas attach to, right?

I don't sit particularly far from the router and was considering saving some money and getting the crappiest USB wifi adapter money can buy instead. It'll have the advantage of sitting on the front of the case.

u/mrastickman · 1 pointr/tails

The best answer I can find is to use a USB wifi adapter, this one seems to work for people but I've not tried it myself.

u/jjborcean · 1 pointr/chromeos

This Edimax dongle works plug and play for me on Chromium OS.


The small size of the antenna doesn’t yield the best range.

u/jkangg · 1 pointr/buildapc

If you have the option, always use an ethernet connection. It's far superior to wifi in connectivity and speed. Otherwise, you can use this usb adapter for super cheap or this TP Link PCI card You can select the cheaper option of the TP-Link card for $18 (N300 2T2R)

If you don't mind me asking, what are the specs (resolution, refresh rate) or brand/model# of your monitor? I can check if the monitor would be a very noticeable upgrade.

u/tmoreau24 · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Yeah I probably just buy a new. I bought one from Amazon that was $7 and it's worked for more than two years, there no setup process for the exception typing in the ssid and the password for your wifi. Edimax EW-7811Un 150Mbps 11n Wi-Fi USB Adapter, Nano Size Lets You Plug it and Forget it, Ideal for Raspberry Pi / Pi2, Supports Windows, Mac OS, Linux (Black/Gold) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_62Mtzb9TV3MCQ

u/nicknacc · 1 pointr/buildapc

I got one of these:http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-Adapter-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY


I as curious if i could get a better signal strength with something a little bit more expensive or larger?

u/nixfox · 1 pointr/Slovenia

potem bi mogoce deloval wifi usb dongle ala tole ali celo tole

kater bi znal boxu po moznosti omogociti wifi priklop.

u/Hoboerotic · 1 pointr/Ubuntu

This could be any number of things specific to the version of Linux and/or the hardware. A quick thing to try would be a USB WiFi adaptor. Such as the one below.

Edimax EW-7811Un N150 Wireless USB Adapter Nano https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0W1CzbNX5N30Z

Otherwise, I'd recommend posting on forums specific to the version of Linux and the laptop manufacturer (or trying to find someone that has had the same issue with the same hardware and software). The more details you can give the better.

To give you an example of how specific this could be, I recently installed a flavour of Ubuntu on a friend's old netbook. It would install fine but then freeze after the first reboot. Turns out the specific model of netbook didn't have an illuminated keyboard but for some reason reported that it did. Luckily someone had had the same issue and figured out that editing a few lines of the kernel fixed the problem. I would never in a million years have been able to figure that out!

u/Joww4L · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

It might be a good idea to get him a wifi dongle too, found this cheap one on Amazon for you. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CdpAzbX0H8Q11

u/xjohnseanx · 1 pointr/learnjavascript

edit usb based soution


Does raspberry pi have wifi support?

u/I-Made-You-Read-This · 1 pointr/buildapc

You can use a PCIe adapter like this or this

or you can use a USB wireless adapter like this or this

u/helpercolumn · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

I'm 99% sure it is this one

u/ncpcgirl · 1 pointr/techsupport

You can buy an external wireless card. This is pretty common when your builtin wireless card stops functioning. If your current wireless card is the issue then a new one will resolve this issue. Here are some examples from amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1493679602&sr=8-4&keywords=usb+wireless

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN725N/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1493679602&sr=8-6&keywords=usb+wireless


u/slick8086 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I second this, put a webserver on the RPi and just access it on your local network. Xbee is completely superfluous. Also there is no real need for the RPi camera as the RPi has USB ports and you can just plug in most USB WebCams.

The model B+ has 4 USB ports so you could even have a few cameras if you wanted.
If you don't have wired ethernet in the nursery, you can use a USB wifi dongle.

u/Kllian · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

i have this wifi adapter Edimax
http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/

I have a 80211b/g/n network running WPA-PSK and I wanted a static IP address

Here is my /etc/network/interfaces file

auto lo

iface lo inet loopback
iface eth0 inet dhcp

auto wlan0
allow-hotplug wlan0

wpa-roam /etc/wpa_supplicant/wpa_supplicant.conf

<br />
iface wlan0 inet static<br />
        address 192.168.1.3<br />
        netmask 255.255.255.0<br />
        gateway 192.168.1.1<br />
        wpa-ssid &quot;WifiName&quot;<br />
        wpa-psk &quot;wifipassword&quot;<br />
        wpa-scan-ssid 1<br />
        wpa-ap-scan 1<br />
        wpa-key-mgmt WPA-PSK<br />
        wpa-proto RSN<br />
        wpa-pairwise CCMP<br />
        wpa-group CCMP<br />
<br />
iface default inet dhcp<br />
<br />

after making the changes, either reboot or do sudo ifdown wlan0 then sudo ifup wlan0 to take the interface down and back up.

Then I did the following which creates a conf file to disable sleep

sudo nano /etc/modprobe.d/8192.cu.conf

and add the following text

disable power management

options 8192cu rtw_power_mgnt=0 rtw_enusbss=0<br />


another reboot and i've had a soild connection ever since.

u/cuddlychops06 · 1 pointr/techsupport

If the internal network card is causing unfixable problems, just purchase a micro wifi usb dongle like this. Super easy fix. Also, has your wireless network's encryption changed at all? Many older devices have a hard time working smoothly on WPA2.

u/Rikers_Mojo · 1 pointr/buildapc

You're overthinking this. Just get this.

Edimax EW-7811Un 150Mbps 11n Wi-Fi USB Adapter, Nano Size Lets You Plug it and Forget it, Ideal for Raspberry Pi / Pi2, Supports Windows, Mac OS, Linux (Black/Gold)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BufoybAGQ3DRZ

u/CrazyDave48 · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/Nemesis0320 · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Congratulations on the new job! The story I am about to tell you is in regards to a new job as well. As well as the Spartan race, my older brother and his wife compete in Camp Gladiator down in Austin every year. From what I can tell, it seems like a satisfying accomplishment.

For the past year, my job has had a really awful boss. After my old one retired, this lady came in from another store, and has since been the bane of my working day. I could write an entire rant about that, but the biggest issues where our gears would grind together was how we viewed basic semi-formal workplace communication. I have been openly scolded on the sales floor (working retail here) many times before, one particular time that always come to mind was for helping a customer when I was paged into her office to help with her computer. She came storming out and started raising hell because she wanted to finish her order so she could leave early. The customer tried defending me, and she gave him the "this does not concern you" routine, so I stepped out of my professional bubble and snapped. I yelled back at her. It was like one of those cinema moments. She was speechless, the customer wore a big grin, and I certainly felt better for doing it. I wasn't worried at the time about getting fired, the whole ordeal was on camera, and I feel I could have contested it. Since then I had only been given shifts where I would close a ten hour shift Friday night and open one Saturday morning. Though noting is particularly wrong with this, I was the only one on the schedule who was getting the treatment, and when others tried to switch shifts with me, the request would get denied. This went on for five months. I was not having this, so I called corporate offices and explained what was happening. After some fiddling around, I was approved to transfer to a store that was not only closer to home, but was changing over to the machinery I am trained in.

This has been the best week ever! because as of this Wednesday, I will have completed my seventh day at the new place. I love my boss, my new director and I are pretty much the same person as far as interests go, and I feel I can do a lot at this new place to make it my own. The icing on the cake of it all, the last day I worked, I learned that my old boss is no longer employed at the store that I was at before, and I would like to think I had a part in that. As awful of a fate as it was for her, she can not be in authority and be demeaning her employees over needing computer help.

I would love this small, cheap wireless dongle for my latest project. I'm planning on making a portable computer out of a Raspberry_Pi (tiny, credit card sized computer) that can be worn like a forearm protector. The dongle is usually more expensive, but the item recently dropped down in price. Having a small wireless attachment for my device would save me the need of having to plug it in to an Ethernet port to access the internet, defeating the purpose of 'portability' I am going for.

u/framedposters · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

I was going to do a similar project, but just ended up making it in an enclosure I 3D printed. Here is the way to go:
http://www.pimusicbox.com/

Allows you to access a sonos-like interface on your computer or phone. Isn't quite the same as what you were trying to do, but its 100 times more simple, especially if you don't have much experience doing this sort of stuff.

You will need a powered USB hub, USB sound card, and USB wifi. I suggest these two things for the soundcard and wifi...

http://www.amazon.com/External-Headphone-Microphone-Plug-N-Play-Compatible/dp/B00XUPX2H0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1450757339&amp;amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;amp;keywords=usb+sound+card&amp;amp;psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1450757359&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=edimax+wifi

One final suggestion, look into changing the grill cloth on the front of it with some new stuff, guitar amp grill cloth works great and this is a great place to buy it.

http://www.mojotone.com/amp-parts?search=Grillcloth

u/10ofClubs · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

normally I would agree with you, but since its the sale it looks like it would be worth it, so I figured I would ask. Here is the breakdown.

Kit - 69.99 on sale

Individual - 74.55 (didn't bother including the manual or hdmi)

  • Raspberry Pi 2 - 38.49

  • Power Adapter - 6.69

  • Wifi Adapter 9.99

  • SD Card - 10.59

  • clear Case - 8.79


    So, objectively, it would be cheaper, unless i wanted to swap out specific parts (but I'm a noob, so I'm not sure what I need yet). So, instead of buying it individually, should I go for the normal wifi kit or the deluxe kit?
u/KoloHickory · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

!check

Yeah i have, i move the pc around a bit so the wireless is less hassle. While i have you here. Any idea why i get shitty download speeds but excellent ping with this adapter? I am one floor below the router. Games such as rocket league, bf4, overwatch i usually have 20-40 ping, while at the same location i have 8 download speed.

Edimax EW-7811Un 150Mbps 11n Wi-Fi USB Adapter, Nano Size Lets You Plug it and Forget it, Ideal for Raspberry Pi / Pi2, Supports Windows, Mac OS, Linux (Black/Gold) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FcTwybP93TH04

u/mrpippy · 1 pointr/VintageApple

Ralink (now owned by Realtek) made several USB WiFi chipsets that had OS X driver support, including PPC 10.4. It uses its own settings app rather than the native AirPort settings so is a bit clunky, but does 802.11n and WPA/WPA2. The devices are super cheap too, $8 on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY

Edimax has 10.4 drivers for newer devices as well: even an 802.11ac dongle! See http://www.edimax.us/html/english/frames/b-download.htm

u/thecolonelofk · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

You're going to need either a WiFi PCIe card
, or a USB WiFi adapter if you're not looking for a permanent solution.

That said, I'd highly recommend working out a pathway for an Ethernet cable to your PC, and I'd that's not an option you could look into Powerline.

u/Mrhoyo · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I've just taken the computer downstairs, speedtest results are as follows:
Next to router, wireless: http://www.speedtest.net/my-result/5011466851

Next to router, wired: http://www.speedtest.net/my-result/5011470224

Upstairs, directly above router, wireless: http://www.speedtest.net/my-result/5011497701

So I think the issue might be the little USB wifi thing. It's one of these http://www.amazon.co.uk/Edimax-EW-7811UN-150Mbps-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B003MTTJOY, would replacing that help?

u/throwaway_1268 · 1 pointr/tails

Hey thanks for the reply,

I am using this adapter: http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY

Should work fine as it claims to be compatible.

u/nipperfitz · 1 pointr/tails

I am having the same issue, but the USB wifi adapter im using is tails compatible (http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY)

Any solutions?

u/cpsavante · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

Nope. Only thing you're going to want to do is get a USB wifi adapter. My apologizies, I forgot to add that component in the build. However, you can easily find many on Amazon and the likes for around 20 or so.

Like this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1454181899&amp;amp;sr=1-4&amp;amp;keywords=usb+wifi+adapter

u/LostMyLastAccount · 1 pointr/techsupport

If all you're looking for is an internet connection but can't run a cable across the house a Powerline adapter works pretty well, as long as they're on the same circuit.

I have these: TP-Link AV200 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 200Mbps (TL-PA2010KIT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WHrGzbAM87XEE

Alternatively, a cheap USB adapter would be nice, I have used this one before: Edimax EW-7811Un 150Mbps 11n Wi-Fi USB Adapter, Nano Size Lets You Plug it and Forget it, Ideal for Raspberry Pi / Pi2, Supports Windows, Mac OS, Linux (Black/Gold) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OJrGzbXJTB3PB



Ps sorry about the links, I'm on mobile...

u/iancbogue · 1 pointr/hackintosh

It’s an Edimax EW-7811Un USB adapter. Will it work with that?

www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/nomadlives · 1 pointr/computertechs

May not be the same issue, since I don't know what nic you are using. But, I have had several of the very small, usb wifi adapters (like this one) stop working during large transfers. Mine became hot to the touch and I think that is why they shut down. I think they just don't have adequate heat dissipation under a heavy load.


I ended up switching to a pci-e card and never had the issue again.

u/Dekken_ · 1 pointr/crunchbangplusplus
u/ShreddyZ · 1 pointr/techsupport

Like that, but perhaps not that particular model. It seems people have reported it dropping connection randomly, so that's perhaps a little too similar to what you have going on right now.

Edit: Something like this.

u/PlausibleDeniabiliti · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

This Edimax works every time.

u/PinkyThePig · 1 pointr/htpc

To chime in to a sort of old thread...

You could try one of these in place of the onboard wifi. I use one for my raspberry pi.

http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-Wireless-Adapter-Wizard/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1381162655&amp;amp;sr=1-1&amp;amp;keywords=wifi+usb

u/RalphtheGiraffe · 1 pointr/techsupport

If you just bought it, it should still be under warranty and you can call tech support to trouble shoot it. Like NycsOwn said you could buy a external wireless adapter and see if that works. If it does I would wonder if the internal wireless card is malfunctioning in some way. Perhaps even maybe the wire has popped off.

u/mjbehrendt · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Buy one of these

u/tbag12 · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Will packet injection not work with the regular guy (EW-7811Un)??

u/MorbidRampager · 1 pointr/buildapc

Network adapter's easy.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_us?ie=UTF8

Boom. $10 150mbps USB WiFi adapter :D.

u/benwap · 1 pointr/techsupportgore

15$cdn + 35$cdn = priceless quality of life improvement! Just saying.
You'll still have an additional 2,4GHz network. Maybe research if these nano USB adapters don't have lower performance than full-size ones, but they're less likely to break in bed.

u/CHarrisMedia · 1 pointr/techsupport

Firstly, you may have heard of powerline before, this basically uses the powerline of your household to transfer data. You receive 2 adapters, one plugs near your router and the other near your PC and both just simply connect over Ethernet. Providing they're not plugged into sockets with power hungry appliances nearby they work like a charm.

Otherwise, I'd say that your unit could be broken. I'd suggest one of these:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-TL-WN822N-300MBPS-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1425221627&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=wireless+adapter

or

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Edimax-EW-7811UN-150Mbps-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1425221627&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=wireless+adapter

u/nastran · 1 pointr/archlinux

I recommend Edimax WiFi USB Adapter as the alternative to the built-in Wi-Fi card. I use it on raspberry pi, and it should work well on your Lenovo laptop.

u/Shitty_Paint_Artist · 1 pointr/computers

Laptops are nice because everything is wrapped up into one thing, so you don't need to buy everything (monitor, mouse, keyboard, etc). Unfortunately they just don't offer the same performance and reliability as a desktop does.

Do you have a desk to use for this? I think I have a decent computer picked out, but if your budget needs to factor in a desk we're in trouble. The desktop is on Newegg, but the rest is Amazon so you will be able to use your card.

Realistically I would expect this desktop to last 2-3 years until you might want to change something. This is the nice thing about desktops, you can generally add/change parts as you go instead of buying an entirely new computer. I wouldn't say you're expecting too much, but realize this computer is on the lower end but capable. You should be able to do everything you've listed to some degree. Some things (like editing video) may go slow because it does have a budget processor.

Here's the links to the parts so far. We can tweak things as needed.

Computer Adapter Monitor Speakers = ~$435

A note on the speakers, you may be able to get even cheaper ones (if you even need them), though usually cheaper speakers have a "buzzing noise." However, Amazon has these and the reviews seem great.

Another note, you could save $10 on the adapter too, since it seems you won't be needing a great connection. That is up to you though. Here's a cheaper one.

u/raazman · 1 pointr/hardware

I'm pretty sure the antennae in a laptop goes around the screen. So in both cases you are going to need some kind or antennae. There are Wi-Fi USB dongles that you can look into though. Look at the one from Edimax. http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY

u/FuriousMedic · 1 pointr/techsupport

I understand your reasoning
Amazon.com WiFi dongle

u/l0rdc0unt · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

You'd need a simple usb bluetooth dongle like this

u/MychaelH · 1 pointr/buildapc

This is a great build almost the same as mine but I have a gtx1060 OC edition that was around $320


(Doesnt include optical drive because it's cheapest if you can borrow one like I did.)

wireless adapter if you don't plan on going wired

don't know what case he would want but usually any $20 one should do just have to have usb 3.0's

u/pw_OBJECTION · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

Using this for my Raspberry Pi, works like a charm, and is very compact:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

u/davemanster · 1 pointr/techsupport

Greetings!

I would try first by replacing your wireless dongle as that is the cheapest and easiest start at troubleshooting.

Give this an order and report back to let me know if it works for ya.

u/JCollierDavis · 1 pointr/ScryptMiningRigs

Spend $10 on a new wireless adapter

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/ref=oh_details_o04_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

DD-WRT is a good second choice.

u/ContraWizard · 1 pointr/Surface

so i found a wifi adapter that's works and is almost unnoticeable, my only concerns are battery life and if the touch or type covers work. The dongle is at

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

u/KaineOrAmarov · 1 pointr/buildapc

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

I got this since my PC is on the other side of the house from my router, and works great. Doesn't support 5GHz wifi, but for $9 can you really complain?

WARNING: It comes with a mini CD for the drivers. I don't have a CD reader on my build. They allow you to download the drivers off their website, but there isn't an automatic install. You have to manually do it (I followed an in depth tutorial). So I'd recommend this if you want something cheap that you're willing to spend time setting up, or if you have a CD reader.

u/blindedscience · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

I had problems with the WiFi adapter provided with my starter kit, too. I was directed to this particular adapter, instead, and it appears that a great many people use it. Even with this adapter, however, I had to configure it to turn off power saving to make things work reliably (it'll still be able to reach out, it just turns the WiFi off when it's not using it, so the device doesn't appear to be online).
You're not getting an IP at all, though, so it seems like your existing interface just isn't working. You might try the linked WiFi adapter and see if it's a problem with the current adapter.

u/ajjeffers · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Just got my first raspberry pi today. [This] (http://www.maketecheasier.com/setup-wifi-on-raspberry-pi/) is the guide I used to set the wifi. Although I don't have the same wifi adapter you used. ([This ] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003MTTJOY?cache=dd082693f8c64f5b5fdba9112c653a71&amp;amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;amp;qid=1408598715&amp;amp;sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1)is the one I got). The guide I linked to above should work the same.

u/JP8_And_Coke · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

I use these on all my Pis. Works with Raspbian right off the bat.
&amp;nbsp;
[Edimax EW-7811Un] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/)

u/twatsky · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

I have this currently https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003MTTJOY/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1493245234&amp;amp;sr=1&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65
And it does not like finding my phones hotspot for some reason...

u/digitalmillenia · 1 pointr/techsupport

If i buy this network adaptor will i be able to connect to wifi spots? I need a temporary fix.

u/Arve · 1 pointr/audiophile

This is the wrong subreddit - you would need to find a computer tech support subreddit for your question.

That said: you can add Bluetooth capability using a $10 adapter like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003MTTJOY/

u/Shell058 · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

They do! I got one on Amazon a while back for my desktop that was pretty cheap and has worked flawlessly so far: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY?psc=1&amp;amp;redirect=true&amp;amp;ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

u/njbr53 · 1 pointr/tails

I think often times it is best to use a usb wifi dongle. Because tails os might not support your wifi card. I have heard this one works well:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY?psc=1&amp;amp;redirect=true&amp;amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

u/firestorm_v1 · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Yes, I have a project involving two wireless usb dongles and a RasPI that does exactly this.

It's easily done with hostapd and OpenVPN.

This adapter will work just fine with first gen RasPi units (even with the USB power problems) and are highly recommended:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1


Use this link to get instructions on how to configure hostapd for it
http://willhaley.com/blog/raspberry-pi-hotspot-ew7811un-rtl8188cus/

Done.

u/MysticSeaSloth · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003MTTJOY?cache=875b0fd8498765d15c2240cd9b668430&amp;amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;amp;qid=1414363805&amp;amp;sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

I am by no means an expert, but this should probably work. It is smaller and cheaper, but I'm not sure if it is better or not.

u/Blardar94 · 1 pointr/techsupport

On speedtest I get about 15mbps down and 3 up. The brand of the modem is qwest but I do not know the model. And it's just the modem, no router.

What is QoS? And yes he is wireless also and he using this adapter
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

u/Corrix98 · 1 pointr/insurgency

Then, as a fall back, try picking up one of these babies, works like a charm for computers with a dated/no internet card.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003MTTJOY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1417016324&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX200_QL40

Edit: Sorry, I've never seen the issue before, best I can say is to either get the above thing if your wireless card is indeed dated. What is your internet speed? Is a firewall blocking Insurgency's wireless capabilities? Check all that.

u/8bit_golem · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

No I did not. Ended up trying out 2 other different WiFi adapters:

  • Edimax EW-7811Un

  • Tenda W311M

    EW-7811Un was one where some tweaking of code would be necessary, and the W311M had the same chipset as the F6D4050 and used the nl80211 driver. The W311M using the nl80211 driver ended up working immediately after it was plugged in and booted up.

    It seems to be that the F9L1001 v1 is not equipped to handle being an ad hoc access point. If all you need to do is access the internet, then it'll work for that, but if you need it to behave like another device and transmit certain information accordingly, it's not going to do that.

    I hope this helps. It was definitely a learning experience for me.

    TL;DR: Nope. Ended up using Tenda W311M after some research and it worked.

    [edit: added clarification in italics and TL;DR]
u/XAznBeastX · 1 pointr/buildapc

Ok, cause I just bought [this wifi adapter]
(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1) not knowing what motherboard wifi was, good thing I didn't waste $8 xD

u/zingbat · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Hate to say this. But this a waste of time and effort. There are plenty of technical battles to fight when working on projects. But this is not one of them.

Just get this for $10 and call it a day.

u/gradient_x · 1 pointr/arduino

Excellent, sounds like you're off to a great start. I'm using this dongle and haven't had too many problems (powered from 5v wall wart), but I haven't put it through the ringers or anything:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1


u/291xray · 1 pointr/windowsxp

AFAIK, Hotspot refers to WiFi, so you would need a WiFi adapter. I found an inexpensive one on Amazon. The faster the adapter the more expensive. You can also go Bluetooth. The ones I found that work with XP were https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0775YF36R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1 and https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1 edit&gt;grammar

u/lykwydchykyn · 1 pointr/linuxquestions

I recently bought this one:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY

It worked out-of-the-box with Ubuntu 14.04, just plug-in and go.

I've had a few bad experiences with cheap USB wifi, some of them say they're linux compatible but they require you to download and compile drivers from the manufacturer. Best thing to do is check the amazon reviews and Q&amp;A (even if you don't buy from amazon). If it's reported as working with Linux (or with the raspberry pi) then that's a good sign.

You can also just search on "&lt;name of product&gt; linux" and usually find someone talking about if it works.

u/reseph · 1 pointr/xbox360

&gt; To be honest that isn't that far off for an adapter now.

Wha? What kind of adapter are you looking at that's $50? I literally just bought this N adapter for $10: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

u/Klinefelter · 1 pointr/techsupport

i unplugged it, restarted it twice and it didn't have a BSOD. however, then i plugged the adapter back in to a different port, restarted it twice again and there was no BSOD either. if it helps, this is what i bought... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

after restarting a couple times, there is that 'available networks' icon on the taskbar, however my network (which shows up on laptop and is literally a foot away from the adapter) does not show up. i tried manually adding the network but it doesn't work either.

u/Astan92 · 1 pointr/Chromecast

Another option is using this method with something like this. It's how I use my chromecast on my school's network. It's also a little cheaper than your option.

If you are on a mac there is a built in option to share internet right in the Sharing section of System Preferences.

u/Summons · 1 pointr/razer

I know, it sucks, but there is not much you can do about it. I suggest buying one of these guys and keeping it in your laptop bag when you need to connect to a 2.4ghz router: https://amzn.com/B003MTTJOY

u/Relagree · 1 pointr/techsupport

I'm with what /u/Wokuworld said with regard to the TAP adapters. So. Many. Virtual. Adapters.

As /u/tapharoot the one DNS setting is incorrect however everything appears to be fine.

As you said the issue only occurs on wireless yet all other wireless devices are fine I'd suggest drivers but you've tried those too. Your easiest bet would be to buy something like a small edimax wifi adapter such as this one: https://amzn.com/B003MTTJOY


u/MrJNewt · 1 pointr/buildapc

Some motherboards will have integrated WIFI, but it's probably not worth limiting your selection on that basis. You can either buy a tiny USB dongle like this one http://amzn.com/B003MTTJOY or a PCI card like these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;amp;N=100010074%20600014300&amp;amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;amp;name=32bit%20PCI

Either way you can expect to spend less than $20.

u/csgoANONYMuser · 1 pointr/tails

http://amzn.com/B003MTTJOY

Thats the one I use, fully working, driverless, the size of a wireless mouse reciever... only 2.4Ghz networks but that's fine.

I don't know if there's any list, but the ones claiming to be Raspberry Pi compatible, usually work on Tails.

I don't know what you can do if you can't send it to your location. Maybe you could send it to a friend's house or your office or buy a similar one locally :/

u/Grimreq · 1 pointr/HowToHack

Is this device compatible? I know there is a lot of documentation on it regarding Kali.
https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-802-11g-Wireless-Long-Range/dp/B003YIFHJY

u/phaerus · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Radio is weird.
(tldr at end)
The overall power matters, but the concentration of that power matters. For example, if you're just talking normally, your voice can be heard decently near to you. But if you talk through a cone, your voice can be heard better, farther, but only in a limited area.

Directional antennas are the same way. They don't change the overall power being sent, but they change the concentration of it, making where they point effectively more powerful see: EIRP

So, yes, you may have a real problem wherein a directional antenna could get data to your laptop, but your laptop may not be able to get that data back to your antenna. One can focus its power, your laptop likely can't (Some newer standards and chipsets support beamforming, which is similar, but i'm discounting that).

Your distance is far, but it's possible. There are special setups for Wireless Internet Service Providers (WISP) that take distance into account, but easiest thing for you is probably to :

tldr: use a directional antenna like what you linked for your wireless access point, and something like this on your laptop http://smile.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-802-11g-Wireless-Long-Range/dp/B003YIFHJY?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;redirect=true&amp;amp;ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage . Point them at each other, and you might have a strong enough signal, though the distance is still at the edge of what will work without more special solutions.

u/iownahorseforreal · 1 pointr/AskNetsec

I would recommend the Alfa AWUS036NH. Does b/g/n and does it well. packet injection and all. I'm pretty sure it's industry recommended by now.

u/gusgizmo · 1 pointr/wireless

If you have a couple devices you want to hook up, I'd recommend the Nanostation M2 Loco and a cheap wireless router:

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-LOCOM2-US-NanoStation-loco-M2/dp/B004EGI3CI

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WR720N-Wireless-150Mbps-Internal/dp/B008IFXQIW

The nanostation gets set to Wireless Station/SOHO Router mode so your traffic appears to come from a single device, then the router is plugged into the nanostation to provide wireless and a pair of ethernet ports to plug your devices into.

If you just need the laptop to work, I'd suggest this alfa USB device:

http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-802-11g-Wireless-Long-Range/dp/B003YIFHJY

I'd grab the active USB extension if it needs to be placed away from your laptop somewhere. This would be the easiest to get setup by far.

u/mrmnder · 1 pointr/AskTechnology

Do you have line of site? You could do directed wifi with a high gain antenna. That paired with some Alfa wifi adapters should get you 500m with line of sight.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YIFHJY/ref=psdc_13983791_t2_B0035BGNWU

u/ShimejiiGaming · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

Ive had a https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-802-11g-Wireless-Long-Range/dp/B003YIFHJY/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1541182556&amp;amp;sr=1-9&amp;amp;keywords=alfa+wifi+usb similar one a few years ago and it works amazing. Other similar ones can be had for 15-20$ and should be fine.

u/MattSPD · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I read this entire post and I've found a few suggestions that might work.

  • Switching the WiFi antennas on the router (if possible). Now this wont help during the night, but it should help during the day.

  • if above is noticeable (Crazy owners and their cancer brain) or impossible (not removable antennas).. have you considered a USB wireless adapter? i have this one and i can get WiFi from like a half mile away at decent speeds. Also with this method its possible to steal (SHHHH DONT TELL) your neighbors WiFi. While this is illegal and I'm not advising you do it, it is a possible solution.

  • I don't know how tech savy you are. But if you can get into the router, You could set up a hidden ssid just for your use.

  • I don't know how rich you are either or what area you live in. But 3g or 4g mobile hotspots are becoming really cheap. you could use option 2 during the day and get all major downloading done and major internet consumption in, and then at night use this option.
u/WhenItGotCold · 1 pointr/norfolk

Alfa 2000mw High gain WiFi Adapter - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YIFHJY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_xfENub1YJ5Q1V

Comes with everything shown and was only used a couple times. $25

u/HadManySons · 1 pointr/ccna

Just ordered this, thanks again for imparting your knowledge on me

u/100percentDeplorable · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

lol I was joking, but come to think of it, if it's PCI-e module and not USB module, I might buy it. Do you know what model it is? Currently, I have one of these - https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-802-11g-Wireless-Long-Range/dp/B003YIFHJY

u/dudeofea · 1 pointr/vandwellers

Couple of options:

  • To mooch wifi from free hotspots / friends, you can do that with a regular laptop / phone. To boost your range, you'll most likely want a wifi booster of some kind. Traditional wifi boosters would look like: Big wifi antenna -&gt; black box -&gt; smaller wifi antenna inside the van -&gt; your laptop/phone
  • A cheaper version of a booster is to "make" one. Get a Yagi wifi antenna + a wifi adapter then connect the adapter to your laptop via USB. It's a bit more involved to do this for your phone. Just remember you have to point the antenna to the wifi source to get the best signal
  • Get a 3G/4G/Mifi box which will connect to a cellular network and output a wifi hotspot you can connect to. If the signal is sparse, you can try getting a 3G Yagi antenna and plugging it into the 3g box though I'm less sure about that and am currently looking into it myself since those boxes typically have two antennas (one for receiving and one for transmitting I believe)
  • Tether your phone to your laptop and get 3G/4G internet that way
u/louisdesnow · 1 pointr/HowToHack

I'm pretty new to using AirCrack myself, but I've bought this a few weeks ago and it works on Kali.

u/poppopretn · 1 pointr/AskNetsec
u/sloopy_sails · 1 pointr/techsupport

Hi, the company i work for used to provide the authentication server for ARMP and Warrior networks, so hi from the past, but its been migrated to another service due to budgetary constraints I would suggest this:
A: Compalin compalin complain until they boost the signal or move an AP closer to your barracks
B: Get a high power transmitter USB wifi adapter I use this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003YIFHJY/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

Its a high power USB dongle (No compant relationship me, just what I use when traveling) comes with a directional and a 2000MX transmit power. I can connect to AP's about 1/2 mile away with 3 bars if pointed correctly. Remember NEVER boot this up without an antenna, it will go into a feedback loop and destroy the transmitter in the USB card. Good Luck.

u/giants32 · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $179.99
Motherboard | ASRock Z97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $69.99
Memory | Team Vulcan 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $68.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $50.40 @ Amazon
Video Card | Asus GeForce GTX 770 2GB DirectCU II Video Card | $319.99 @ Amazon
Case | Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case | $59.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $64.99 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) | $89.99 @ NCIX US
Keyboard | Logitech G105 Wired Gaming Keyboard | $38.95 @ Amazon
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $943.28
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-07-25 21:05 EDT-0400 |


The price of the CPU and motherboard is from a combo discount you get when you buy them together in-store at microcenter. Prices may change slightly at the start of next month but you can just check the microcenter website for that.

I don't have a wifi adapter included in the build, but this tp-link is the one I have and I haven't had a problem in 6 months of use.

Edit: And actually, because you aren't overclocking, you could get this motherboard instead which is 49.99 with the combo discount.

u/Ue-MistakeNot · 1 pointr/buildapc

If powerline wont work, get a usb (or PCI-e) one that has an antennae, like this one so that you get the most stable connection.

u/Retrosmith · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I can't speak for that one, but I use this one at home and have no issues at all.

u/BucciMane15 · 1 pointr/computers

Depending on your location, one of these could help a lot if you're streaming.

TP-LINK Wireless N300 High Gain USB Adapter, Support Windows/Linux/Mac OS, Plug and play (TL-WN822N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_D8tFxbM1JWSHG

u/eroldru · 1 pointr/buildapc

Mini is just the size, no worries, it still is a normal GTX 1060 6GB in a smaller body. As far as the keyboard is concerned, this year I got a Rapoo V700 mech keyboard, no illumination, but still a great one for just 25€. But still for 25€ is OK, for 50(~60€) I'd expect to get a lot more, not just some chinese illumination. Anyway, that's my opinion. I've used this adapter https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-TL-WN822N-Wireless-Adapter-Version/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=sr_1_33?s=computers&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1501163112&amp;amp;sr=1-33&amp;amp;keywords=wifi+tplink for a long time and has always worked great, also CSGO ran flawlessly, but as always for very competitive gaming wired is the best option, even if you invest hundreds of $$$ just for wifi.

BTW here are all the keyboards featured in PCPP https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/products/keyboard/#k=1&amp;amp;sort=price&amp;amp;page=1
I'd advise choosing one with Cherry Keys, the other ones are just cheaper chinese clones.

EDIT: Just found this: http://www.corsair.com/en-gb/strafe-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-cherry-mx-brown-ch-9000500-na-refurbished It's a refurb, but comes directly from Corsair and has warranty.

u/rv_princess · 1 pointr/GoRVing

I use a part that boosts the wi-fi signal to my computer. I may have mentioned it in a previous post, but this TP-Link can take me from barely one bar to full bars for signal strength. Extremely helpful. Pretty inexpensive for what it does for me. At one job I was getting nothing until I plugged it in.
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Wireless-Adapter-Support-TL-WN822N/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=sr_1_30?s=pc&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1459316296&amp;amp;sr=1-30&amp;amp;keywords=tp-link

It might help in your travels.

u/MadHiggins · 1 pointr/wow

&gt; I just hope our crappy wifi will at least let my farm

buy a wifi booster, that's what i did for my work's crappy wifi. i bought something like this https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN822N-Wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1536365861&amp;amp;sr=8-9&amp;amp;keywords=wifi+booster+tp+link off of amazon and it helped a lot to keep a steady connection and is pretty cheap at like 20 bucks.

u/logoster · 1 pointr/techsupport

The problem is that you got a nano adapters, they are the worst possible choice to make, something like this is a far better choice (I actually use this one myself, I get the SAME speeds as my directly connected pcs)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_mCrLub1ATZCKM

u/cloudynights · 1 pointr/buildapc

I currently use this and this as a wireless router. I also have a 100Mbp/s downstream connection, so I never really have a problem gaming on wireless, or streaming or torrenting from a computer using wifi. I rent so there's no way I can try to run wire throughout the house, and my houses electrical circuits are messed up as is, so I don't think trying a powerline connection would be the best.

u/n1gz · 1 pointr/GlobalOffensive

Get this. I'm getting 5-15 ms with it. Fiber connection helps but it's still the best wireless adapter you can buy.

u/exclasher1 · 1 pointr/techsupport

I would recommend an external USB adapter to replace it, or work alongside it. I had a TP-Link that worked nicely let me find it quickly.
Edit: Here it is: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN822N-Wireless-External-Antennas/dp/B00416Q5KI

u/JonotanVII · 1 pointr/buildapc

looks good, the power supply is $50 after rebate btw. And you can get a wifi adapter like this one for $15 so you'll be under your max!

u/urethrasecks · 1 pointr/buildapc

Been watching that same one for my build. Found a cheaper one on Amazon as well.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WBX9C6/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;me=&amp;amp;seller=

There's also this one, not sure what the difference is between the two though.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN822N-Wireless-Adapter-Antennas/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=pd_cp_e_0

u/diab64 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Generally, PCI-E is much faster of an interface. However, Wifi speeds don't go nearly as fast as even the maximum speed of USB 2.0. So, speed-wise, it doesn't matter.

The USB one will be good for futureproofing your computer in case you later get a router with AC and 5GHz support. It's also nice in that you'll be able to preposition it to different USB slots for better signal.

For PCI-E, I would recommend this TP-Link one instead of the Rosewill:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Adapter-TL-WN881ND/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1483091328&amp;amp;sr=1-1&amp;amp;keywords=wireless+network+card&amp;amp;refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_three_browse-bin%3A6011949011%2Cp_36%3A700-2500
It's from (in my opinion) a more reputable company; it seems like it's a current model from their website; and it's a buck cheaper and will probably ship faster. Otherwise pretty much the same as the Rosewill.

There is a third alternative I found:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N300-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN822N/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1483092749&amp;amp;sr=1-3&amp;amp;keywords=wireless+network+usb&amp;amp;refinements=p_36%3A1253503011%2Cp_72%3A1248879011%2Cp_89%3ATP-Link
This would be especially great for if you know you get a bad signal between your router and computer. You can connect it via USB and then stick the device up high somewhere for maximum signal. If you have a place to put the device and don't currently have or have plans to get an AC or 5GHz router, this is what I would get.

u/1new_username · 1 pointr/sysadmin

If you have PCI slots, these are great:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0713RRZMB/

Intel 802.11ac chip (at least it was when I purchased), regularly sustain 500+ Mbps connections (using Ruckus APs).

These are really nice USB ones as well:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00416Q5KI/

Ralink driver if I remember right. They are Wireless N, but still generally good. Typically about 120 - 175 Mbps connections

I've also used these before if you have strong APs and don't need super fast speed:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B008IFXQFU/

Expect about 40-60 Mbps connections

u/Klelth · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I use this one

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Adapter-Support-TL-WN822N/dp/B00416Q5KI

I think its pretty good I rarely lag while online and my top download speed I have reached is 15MBs.

u/TydeQuake · 1 pointr/techsupport

How about this one? The price is a lot lower so I assume the quality is too, but it has quite an antenna.

Or maybe a powerline? I don't know a lot about those and especially their price but I've heard they work well.

u/sit_up_straight · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Didn't there use to be a daily build questions thread? I'm looking for a good but fairly cheap monitor and wifi adapter (max budget $240 for now)

Currently looking at these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00416Q5KI/
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=24-009-513

The wifi adapter should be long range since my connection to the router isn't the best and I'd like to try to use it for streaming to my Steam Link.
I don't need speakers on the monitor. I enjoy 60 FPS content but I'm not sure I notice anything over that so 60 or 75 Hz is probably ok.

u/Atlantacus · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Im using this got it a few months ago and its never dropped out or had any problems.

u/arjun959 · 1 pointr/IndianGaming

https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B00416Q5KI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

&amp;#x200B;

Have been using this for 1-2 months. catches signal from 10m away, thru 2 walls.

Good signal strength. Looks good and plugs into USB.

u/Zaugr · 1 pointr/buildapc

This was suggested:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00416Q5KI/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1450053914&amp;amp;sr=8-4&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX118_SY170&amp;amp;keywords=wireless+dongle&amp;amp;dpPl=1&amp;amp;dpID=3104SMiaGyL&amp;amp;ref=plSrch


And you're right, I just said what was suggested because I really don't understand what the differences/benefits are between the three.


How do I find out how good my house wiring is? Some pointers?


Thanks for the help so far. :) Do you think your suggestion would be good enough for competitive CS:GO or should I look at some way to use an Ethernet cable. (Which would be a lot of hard work, and I'd obviously rather not do)

u/strobot · 1 pointr/htpc

TP-LINK TL-WN822N works very well

u/Sherwood16 · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Yea I am wondering the same, I have a USB-Ethernet adapter just sitting around that I bought for a different purpose.

I am curious as to whether it will work for the Switch as well. I guess I will find out on launch =).

It's [This] (https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Network-Adapter-Chromebook/dp/B00484IEJS) One if anyone is curious.

u/rmw6190 · 1 pointr/wiiu

yea he'd have to use an adapter. Nintendo used to sell them on their online store, but I can find it now. Either that or he is lying about being on a wired connection. This is the only one I can find atm

u/jhoff80 · 1 pointr/windowsphone

Just to confirm, I retried two Plugable USB 3.0 ones (with a USB-C to USB-A adapter) and neither of those worked.

An older USB 2.0 Plugable adapter (same chipset as http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Network-Adapter-Chromebook/dp/B00484IEJS but mine is an older model than this) works fine.

Microsoft also says in that blog post that they're still adding more chipsets as well.

u/immaturducken · 1 pointr/csgo

Hello,

I kinda had a problem like this a while ago, and it took me quite some time to determine what was going on, which, as it turns out, wasn't related to Steam or CSGO. Despite what others have said, for me it was a hardware (or firmware) issue. Anyway, here's what I figured out...

I run a Wifi setup because where I'm located I am not physically close to my router for LAN. My problem was similar to yours in so much that attempting to download updates would either corrupt the game, or end up with saying the download was corrupt. In any case, it turned out to be my primary WLAN card. To fix the situation, I swapped over to my secondary WLAN card and, go figure, update downloads started working just fine again with no corruptions of any kind. Not entirely sure what the issue is, considering the primary card works just fine for every other application, but this is the root of the problem, so changing up your cards is your best bet. If you don't have more than one, or if you use LAN vs WLAN, here's what I'd suggest you do...

For WLAN setup:

  • First off, try using LAN over WLAN if feasible. If not, keep reading...
  • Change to a different wireless card. If you don't have one, buy another cheap one from Amazon. [This] (http://www.amazon.com/Panda-Wireless-PAU06-300Mbps-Adapter/dp/B00JDVRCI0/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1463330990&amp;amp;sr=1-6&amp;amp;keywords=usb+wireless+adapter) USB wireless adapter works just fine. I don't recommend things I haven't used myself.
  • With the two cards installed (once you have two), make sure you are using the new one.
  • Go to Control Panel &gt; Network and Sharing Center &gt; Change Adapter Settings &gt; Right click on the OLD adapter &gt; Disable &gt; Now make sure you can connect with the new adapter &gt; Restart Steam and try downloading updates again

    For LAN setup (physical cable from router to PC):

  • Given that most computer only have one ethernet port, you options are limited.
  • Try wireless like above, recommendation on wireless adapter still stands.
  • Try a USB ethernet adapter. In this case, [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Network-Adapter-Chromebook/dp/B00484IEJS?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;redirect=true&amp;amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00) one should do just fine. I use it for my Chromebook in areas with only LAN access.
  • With the USB adapter installed, make sure you are using it.
  • Go to Control Panel &gt; Network and Sharing Center &gt; Change Adapter Settings &gt; Right click your built in LAN port &gt; Disable &gt; Now make sure you can connect with the new adapter &gt; Restart Steam and try downloading updates again

    If none of that works, the only other option I'd suggest to you that I didn't see listed here already is changing your download region in Steam.

  • Go to Steam &gt; Settings &gt; Download &gt; Download Region &gt; Change this to any region WELL AWAY from your current one, which is typically the one closest to you.
  • After change, restart Steam and try downloads again.

    The region change did not work for me, but did for many others, so that's the only reason why I mention it. In any case good luck!
u/IrregularWizard · 1 pointr/wiiu

This is what I use.

u/thejunioristadmin · 1 pointr/galaxynote4