(Part 2) Best usb network adapters according to redditors

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We found 3,607 Reddit comments discussing the best usb network adapters. We ranked the 525 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Top Reddit comments about USB Computer Network Adapters:

u/sk9592 · 240 pointsr/buildapc

For most people's internet connections, not really.

Especially if it's USB 3.0.

If you have a very fast internet connection, and a good AC router, I would suggest spending money on a Wifi receiver with decent antennas and hardware in it, rather than getting the cheapest thing you can find.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Adapter-Archer-T4U/dp/B00JBJ6VG8/

u/roboer9 · 66 pointsr/buildapcsales

USB pros: much easier to install, plug and play

PCI pros; faster speeds, more reliable

USB LINK: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Adapter-Archer-T2UH/dp/B00UZRVY12

PCI LINK: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Express-Adapter-TL-WDN4800/dp/B007GMPZ0A

u/plistig · 19 pointsr/einfach_posten

Hm ... du hast recht. Bestellt. Wofür hab ich Amazon Prime denn, wenn nicht für Impulskäufe?

u/ollie87 · 16 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

You did.

I already had the adapter and the tray. I bought the antenna because the 5dB one that I had could nearly connect (1Mbps). Unfortunately the new one I ordered isn't good enough and I needed this tweak. I didn't buy an amplifier, the Alfa Wi-Fi adapter has a built in amp. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Alfa-AWUS036H-802-11b-Wireless-network/dp/B002WCEWU8

I didn't get a directional one since 1) I just moved house and I'm now poor, 2) I didn't actually know the direction of the BT Openzone hotspot and 3) I live in the UK and our tech stores are crap, I can't walk into a shop and buy a directional antenna I'd have to wait a week to have one delivered - I want internet now. I've already burnt through my 3G/4G allonce on both my phone and tablet through tethering for this month.

Besides it works and this is Tech Support MacGuyver - it's not meant to be eligant or pretty, it's a stop gap until BT pull their finger out and install my FTTC.

u/meandallmyyeah · 16 pointsr/buildapc

Don't go too cheap on those. Usually the cheap ones have slow speeds, would recommend this one

u/johnbentley · 15 pointsr/homeautomation

I too am starting out and evaluating Home Automation solutions.

BASIC HOME AUTOMATION ARCHITECTURE

The Basic Home Automation Architecture, independent of a specific technology stack, entails:

1. CENTRAL CONTROLLING SOFTWARE.

The controlling software might be:

  • Installed on your PC. For example HomeSeer's HS2;
  • Implemented as firmware on a dedicated hardware device supplied by the manufacturer. For example Mi Casa Verde's VeraLite or HomeSeer's HomeTroller-SE; or
  • Running on a mini PC you build for the purpose. For example running HomeSeer's HS2 on a Intel NUC Kit DC3217IYE.

    As for Raspberry PI ... Mi Casa Verde's VeraLite runs on its own dedicated Linux box. I don't know of any Home Control Software that is offered as Linux Software only. A Raspberry Pi, although a linux platform, therefore wouldn't seem to be a solution to work with Mi Casa Verde.

    HomeSeer HS2 only supports windows. HomeSeer HS3, the next software version to be released, is meant to support Linux (in addition to windows). So although Raspberry PI does not support Windows and does not run WINE, perhaps HomeSeer's HS3 will run on it. Or maybe Raspberry PI is not powerful enough.

    This software that (centrally) controls your devices is exposed to you as a web interface for setup, direct device control, scripting scenarios, and monitoring power. So the web interface works in a similar fashion to the web interface your router exposes.

    2. HARDWARE TO RUN YOUR CENTRAL CONTROLLING SOFTWARE.

    See above.

    3. PROTOCOL INTERFACE HARDWARE

    Either:

  • As an additional piece of hardware, like Homesetting's Zwave USB Controller's or (preferred) Aeon Labs Z-Wave Z-Stick Series 2 USB Dongle. This will plug into whatever hardware is running your (central) controlling software; or
  • Built into the Central Controlling Hardware Unit (e.g. Mi Casa Verde's VeraLite has a built in Protocol Interface for Z-wave).

    There are many Home Automation Protocols. These include Insteon, KNX, UPB, X10, Zigbee, Z-Wave. Z-Wave seems to be emerging as the most popular. X-10 seems to be dying. HomeSeer supports, with an accompanying Hardware Protocol "Interface", all of the protocols except for Zigbee and KNX. Mi Casa Verde supports (built-in) Z-Wave only.

    Z-Wave is cool because it is: wireless; mesh (proximate nodes in the network can make distant nodes accessible to the Central Controller that otherwise would not be); and has many cool products already available.

    4. END USE DEVICES.

    This includes switches (in wall or plug in), motion detectors, lights, cameras, etc. These end use devices support one protocol. That is, one of Insteon, KNX, UPB, X10, Zigbee, Z-Wave, etc.

    Aeotec (also referenced as "Aeon Labs") has several cool Z-wave products.

    CONTROLLING YOUR FAN

    > It makes it look like you can put this behind a regular, non-zwave switch... after which both that switch and the zwave switch can turn a light on and off.

    > Could this be used inside the light fixture of a ceiling fan? I'd like to be able to use the chain, and those are simple toggle (mechanical) switches as well.

    I don't have the personal experience to verify all this but it looks like the product you linked to is one of three types of Aeotec Aeon Labs "In-Wall Z-Wave Control"s. The three being:

  • "Micro Smart Dimmer", for lights.
  • "MIcro Smart Switch", for your power outlets (for any appliance including plug in lights). This seems to be the product you linked to.
  • "Micro Smart Motor Controller", which presumably will be suited for fan control (???). This is said to be able to "Open/Close control via Z-Wave, manual wall switch, and/or built-in button". So I see no reason why you couldn't just pull the chain to override whatever Z-wave commands you had previously sent (but someone with personal experience needs to chime in here).

    WHICH HOME AUTOMATION SOLUTION?

    I'm tossing up between Mi Casa Verde's VeraLite and a HomeSeer Solution. Edit: But a Raspberry Pi solution needs looking into. That has the potential to blow these competitors out of the water.

    Mi Casa Verde is much cheaper, a little more open in broad terms, has an outstanding user created and free Android Client (AutHomationHD), and sufficient energy monitoring options. But it has has poor documentation, messy security issues, scripting deficiencies (mitigated by user created plug-ins).

    HomeSeer is expensive, a little bit closed in broad terms (they don't like you talking about competitor's products in their forums for example), doesn't yet have a polished native Android Client (they do have an Android solution that works), energy monitoring I have yet to research, relatively good documentation (but could be improved), apparently solid security solutions (more research by me required), and good scripting/programming options.

    HomeSeer uses exposes a .Net and .Aspx Api which I favour. Mi Casa Verde exposes "Luup (Lua-UPnP) is Mi Casa Verde’s new software engine which incorporates Lua, a popular scripting language, and UPnP, the industry standard way to control devices." http://wiki.mios.com/index.php/Luup_Intro. I'd never heard of this "popular scripting language" before. I'm loathe to learn a new one (on top of those I do know or am learning).

    http://www.smartthings.com/ requires a connection to the cloud. I don't like that as a requirement. For security reasons I'd like to be able to either have the option to disable remote access or have remote access with my own certificates. Cloud solutions make it easy, moreover, for companies to subscribe your arse.

    As for the Protocol, I'm set on Z-wave. I intend to purchase Aetoc:

  • Z-stick, as the Hardware Protocol Interface; and
  • Several Z-Wave Plug-In Switch Controllers;

    HOLD OFF FOR 3 - 6 MONTHS?

    It might be prudent to wait for 3 to 6 months to see how the Home Automation scene will shake out:

  • HomeSeer is yet to release it's HS3 which is a substantial rewrite. It might be worth letting that release stabilise.
  • Google might be in the wings ready to pounce with its Android @ Home solution. But I worry about any Google solution requiring a cloud connection.
  • Mi Casa Verde might get its act together with respect to documentation and security issues.
  • Another company might come along and do it right.

    Aeotec have yet to release their LED Bulb which will be: directly controlled (wirelessly with Z-wave); dimmable; and variable over the full colour spectrum. While there is no need to wait for this to setup a Home Automation System I would hold off on those parts of the lighting solution. For example I wouldn't bother installing light wall switches or buying a Phillips Hue setup.

    At the moment there exists no Home Automation company/solution that does it right. It therefore remains wide open as a opportunity for: an open source project; a business started by some tech savy entrepreneur.

    EDITS

    Edit 01: A shit load of editing and tidying up ... still ongoing.

    Edit 02: Under "WHICH HOME AUTOMATION SOLUTION?" Added explicit mention of which protocol I intend to get: Z-Wave.

    Edit 03: But a Raspberry Pi solution needs looking into. That has the potential to blow these competitors out of the water.

    Edit 04: Formatted the parts of Basic Home Automation Architecture into subheadings.

    Edit 05: Added info about the Central Controlling Software exposing a web interface. Added info about end use devices only supporting one protocol.
u/dougie-io · 13 pointsr/UsabilityPorn

I've been really getting into Openbox the past week. I've never stayed that long with tiling window managers, so I think a super minimal stacked window manager like this is perfect for me.

The laptop here is a Thinkpad X1 Yoga. I don't get a great Wifi signal outside, so I picked up this 1200mbps adaptor. Much better! Doubled the download speed.

Conky config

OpenBox config

I haven't implemented it yet into my config, but a neat project I am working on is obanyconf. If you like Openbox but hate having to deal with XML, this is something that might make your life a whole lot easier. You'll be able to create an Openbox configuration using YAML, JSON, TOML, and a few others. No documentation yet. Feel free to let me know if you're interested and I should show you how it works. It's perfectly functional at the moment but hasn't undergone serious testing.

Why Openbox has been awesome for my workflow:

  • It's a simple window manager that gets out of your way
  • Learning curve is super small and there hasn't been any big surprises
  • autostart and environmental variables can be configured independent of your other desktop environments (~/.config/openbox/environment and ~/.config/openbox/autostart)
  • No panel needed?

    When you start out, you have nothing but an empty desktop and a menu that pops up when you right click. This is all configured through rc.xml (the main configuration file) and menu.xml (the right-click menu config).

    The XML configuration has certain options for dynamically loading things that I'm still exploring. For example, there's a program called obmenu-generator. When you run the command, it spits out a bunch of XML corresponding to what software you have installed. You could have this command called in your menu.xml. The result is this typical menu that lists all of the programs you have installed, neatly categorized.

    ...a silly example of this dynamic loading feature is that you could write your own script that would pull down a few new news articles from your favorite feeds. When you click them in the menu, it would open in a web browser.

    ...a more practical example is writing a script (or using an existing one) that shows your connected removable drives in that right-click menu. When you click one, it would open in your file manager.

    Keybindings:

  • SUPER+ENTER -> open terminal
  • SUPER+SHIFT+ENTER -> open web browser
  • SUPER+ALT+ENTER -> open file manager
  • SUPER+e -> emacs
  • SUPER+SHIFT+q -> close window
  • SUPER+SHIFT+c -> calculator
  • SUPER+SHIFT+t -> basic text-editor/notepad
  • SUPER+SHIFT+T -> thunderbird
  • SUPER+f -> Toggle maximize
  • SUPER+SPACE -> Make window basically in the center and a bit smaller
  • SUPER+SHIFT+m -> minimize window (haven't implemented this just yet in openbox)
  • SUPER+SHIFT+w -> move window with mouse (haven't implemented this just yet in openbox)
  • SUPER+SHIFT+r -> resize window with mouse (haven't implemented this just yet in openbox)
  • SUPER+d -> rofi
  • ALT+d -> rofi window switcher
  • This window manager also has a variety of bindings out of the box, like ALT+tab switching
u/BCMM · 11 pointsr/linux

All current Raspberry Pis that have Ethernet use a built-in USB NIC, connected to a built-in USB hub, connected to the SoC via USB 2.0 (the hub is there because the SoC has exactly one "USB bus", if you'll pardon the redundant acronym).

I haven't tested the actual speed of the BCM2836's USB, but the theoretical maximum speed for USB 2.0 is 480 Mb/s. This means that true gigabit speeds are a non-starter with the current design.

It is possible to improve slightly on 100BASE‑TX speeds, within the constraints of USB 2.0, by using an adaptor that implements 1000BASE‑T but doesn't actually go to 1Gb/s (random Amazon example, not specifically recommending it). However, there would be little point using something like that on a Raspberry Pi. As mentioned above, there's only a single USB, and an internal hub is used to permit simultaneous use of the onboard NIC and the USB ports.

This means that any USB storage you attach to the Pi has to share the USB with the network adaptor - in a typical file server setup, any file being saved would have to travel in to the NIC, over the USB to the SoC, and finally back over the same USB to the hard disk. Thus, with a "Gigabit Ethernet" adaptor fitted, the maximum, ideal, never-gonna-actually-happen transfer rate would be 240Mb/s. In practical usage I suspect it would struggle to reach even twice the performance of the present setup.

If the Foundation really is working on a Pi with Gigabit Ethernet, I would imagine they're working with a new SoC.

u/r0ch3klip · 10 pointsr/hardware

I use these for our Surface Pro tablets. Windows 7 and 8 you plug in and it works.
Plugable USB 2.0 to 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet LAN Wired Network Adapter

u/AndyTheAbsurd · 10 pointsr/linuxquestions

If you really want to use Linux as your only OS, and you're unable to solve this issue with software tweaks, you may have to resort to adding hardware. This USB wifi device is inexpensive and works well with Linux - I've been using it for about six months and have no complaints about it. (There are a couple of cheaper options available...I had the same problem you're having now when using them before finding this one.)

u/perennialExhaustion · 9 pointsr/SBU

The big metal thing up top is called Yagi antenna, which is basically just increases signal strength to nearby WiFi access points. Looks like this one

Connected to that is an external USB network adapter, looks like the awesome T-Link Archer or N150 connected to a USB extension.

​

So what OP is doing is extending range and connecting to a different nearby router, probably optimum wifi off campus or something.

​

EDIT: whoops, OP responded while i was typing. Didn't show up until now.

u/macinmypocket · 8 pointsr/buildapc

That's an old Apple ADB keyboard, likely from the Apple II period. I do love those, and if you would like to use it on your modern computer, you can use this! I have one and it works great. http://www.amazon.com/Griffin-2001-ADB-iMate-Universal-adapter/dp/B000067V8L

And if you don't have a cable for it, you can use an S-video cable, they're pretty easy to find.

u/black_snake · 8 pointsr/htpc

In theory, BT 4.0 has a maximum range of 200'. Any added interference, such as walls and wireless signals from other devices cane make it much shorter. I would recommend looking for something like this ASUS 4.0 Dongle to see if it will work. Another option would be to grab a USB extender cable to place the dongle on the other side of the wall and closer to the pool.

u/svideo · 7 pointsr/homeautomation

Z-Wave is in fact pretty well standardized. It is license-encumbered but currently ubiquitous enough that you can be reasonably sure that most any Z-Wave switch you buy is going to work with any Z-Wave hub.

OpenHAB is pretty complicated but if you want to roll your own solution it's a solid starting point. You're going to need a Z-Wave interface which you can pass through to your Linux VM if your hypervisor supports it. Alternately, you can run OpenHAB on an RPi with this device plugged in.

Finally, you might find that getting started with an existing hardware solution like SmartThings or Vera might be a cheap ($100) way to bootstrap the project so you aren't forced into rolling everything yourself, allowing you to start by working on the use case instead of the infrastructure.

u/EuphoricDirt · 7 pointsr/netsecstudents

For the wireless card, I don't see many clients use anything other than 802.11 ac anymore. I'd suggest this card: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VEEBOPG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Xilarating · 7 pointsr/amazon

https://www.amazon.com/ANEWKODI-AC600Mbps-Wireless-802-11ac-10-4-10-12/dp/B01G8IPLD8/

if you scroll down a little bit to "special offers and product promotions",
you can save 15% on: Realistic Dildo and Realistic Huge Dildo.

just wanted everyone to know that

u/ArmenianG · 6 pointsr/illegallifeprotips2

Virtual machines are useful. I believe you can set up a virtual machine on your Mac so you can emulate a Windows machine or a android (I am not sure about android but I will do some checking if I were you).

I would suggest reading up on virtual machines and setting it up so that you are anonymous, using a VPN is always a good idea. I would also suggest buying a Wi-Fi adapter I will link what I think is the best one after. See if you can use a café Wi-Fi or a public Wi-Fi so you're not locked into having you credentials known by the powers that be.

Nothing I have said is illegal. 

Edit: added link

u/Malichi188 · 6 pointsr/buildapcsales

Just an fyi Amazon has it $2 less right now.
ASUS(PCE-N15) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0053GR2YI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WqYgyb7DZA71Z

u/RatherNott · 6 pointsr/linuxhardware

Going by this article, this Panda USB Wifi Dongle appears to be fully compatible.

This thread from the Linux Mint forums also has some promising results if you require something faster. :)

u/Pyzro · 5 pointsr/HowToHack

https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NHA-Wireless-USB-Adaptor/dp/B004Y6MIXS

As far as I can tell, this only supports 2.4GHz. You'll need a different adapter that can support 5GHz.

Edit: Thanks for the Gold.

u/Franke123 · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You could have replaced that $15 spent on a keyboard & USB Drive with a $10 wifi adapter, then just SSH'd into the box and done everything that way from your PC, and then used SFTP or SCP to transfer ROM's to the Pi, or just when SSH'ed into the pi do

wget [download link]

Just FYI for anyone that wants to do this project. You also probably won't need a starter kit. Minimum you'll need:

u/neurobomber · 5 pointsr/HowToHack

I actually did this! If you want something that runs processes for a long time that you can walk away from (and is easy to remove the evidence), then it's a great option.

One caveat: If you want to do any kind of wireless hacking, I wouldn't get their suggested USB wifi. It didn't work for me. Instead grab this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EQT0YK2

I'm not techy enough to explain the why but it's the only model I could find at a reasonable price that could handle wireless monitoring required for hacking wifi signals.

u/FatFingerHelperBot · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!


Here is link number 1 - Previous text "so,"

Here is link number 2 - Previous text "so."



----
^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete

u/MyNameIsRichardCS54 · 5 pointsr/linux

This one apparently but it's not cheap.Also, this cheaper one claims to "work greatly" for Linux.

u/ClearlyYoureWrong · 5 pointsr/buildapc

This is just my opinion, here are some "best of":

u/ElectricFagSwatter · 5 pointsr/buildapc

I would recommend a USB one instead because those can be moved up high like onto your desk which makes a huge difference than a PC adapter near the ground, possibly obstructed by your case which is made of metal and metal does not play nicely with RF signals.

This should be good, but it doesn't come with a dongle cable

Or maybe this


I have a Netgear brand one and it is really good. It's the ac1200 and it is great. It maxes out my internet connection at 140mbps. I have it behind my second monitor on my desk

u/JLebowskiTheDude · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

If you need improved signal strength and don't mind an external antenna, I've had a lot of luck with this one:

USB WiFi Adapter 1200Mbps Techkey Wireless Network Adapter USB 3.0 WiFi Dongle 802.11 ac with Dual Band 2.4GHz/300Mbps+5.8GHz/866Mbps 5dBi High Gain Antenna for Desktop Laptop Windows XP/7-10/ Mac OS

$15.99 after $2.00 coupon.

It identifies as Realtek 8812BU 802.11ac USB NIC and uses the Realtek Wireless LAN utility.

Amazing range and single strength/quality.

Don't let the lack of reviews fool you. The original Amazon page I purchased it from seems to no longer work for some reason, but it had over 4,000+ reviews and was Amazon's #1 best seller in USB Computer Network Adapters.

Here's Google's cached version of the page:

https://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:kBo-0YmjOHcJ:https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-1200Mbps-TECHKEY-Wireless-Network-300Mbps/dp/B07J65G9DD+&cd=1&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us

Good luck!

u/lGA5THDDYV · 4 pointsr/vandwellers

You need to connect the antenna to a USB wifi adapter. The antenna on the wifi adapter takes an RP-SMA connector so you will need to buy an N-Type adapter as well.

u/LifeWithAdd · 4 pointsr/GoRVing

I'd also swap the very expensive Wifi Ranger for the Alfa long range wifi receiver and Alfa wifi repeater

u/doc_willis · 4 pointsr/linux4noobs

seen this one recommended. but not tried it personally, and it's not a tiny dongle.

Alfa Long-Range Dual-Band AC1200 Wireless USB 3.0 Wi-Fi Adapter w/2x 5dBi External Antennas – 2.4GHz 300Mbps/5GHz 867Mbps – 802.11ac & A, B, G, N
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VEEBOPG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vDJTBbX9DP7GH

u/Nagorak · 4 pointsr/Vive

With OpenTPCast you can run with AC mode and it works fine, unlike with stock TPCast, so that shouldn't be a problem. With AC mode you can even use a hack to enable the camera and it works more or less. (Ultimately I didn't feel like the startup routine was worth the hassle for the camera though.)

That being said, when I tried using my own router, my problem was every few minutes my connection would get dropped, causing the TPCast to totally disconnect and have to go through the reconnection process. That made it not viable for me. Basically because there's other traffic on your router, that can cause problems sometimes with the TPCast.

However, the ultimate solution I found was to just use a wireless USB dongle, set it to A mode only (although Open TPCast works with AC/N, it doesn't work when using a dongle), and then run a hosted wi-fi network. This eliminated the need for the router entirely, while still not having to connect to my normal wi-fi network. It won't work with any dongle: they have to be able to run a hosted network in the 5 GHz range (more adapters are probably technically capable of it but their drivers don't allow a 5 GHz hosted network). I've personally verified that this can be made to work with any of these:

BrosTrend 1200Mbps Long Range USB WiFi Adapter

BrosTrend 1200Mbps USB WiFi Network Adapter

Wavlink AC 1300 Wireless Adapter

Wavlink AC 1200 Wireless Adapter

Wavlink AC 1200 Wireless Adapter with extension/cradle (not personally tested, but should be the same as above but just with the cradle so it can be moved from the back of your PC).

These adapters are all basically the same thing in a different shell. They're all using the RealTek 8812AU chipset (my PC even identifies them as the same thing).

The BrosTrend Long Range might be the best option, just because it comes with a cradle, doesn't really cost more (be sure to apply a coupon on the Amazon page) and the large antenna can't hurt anything (doesn't seem to increase transfer speed in good conditions, but it does improve connection quality/range).

The one shortcoming of this is you can't control the band the dongle hosts on. It always uses channel 36. So if that channel is very congested in your area it might be a no go.

So, anyway, go ahead and give your own router a shot, but if that doesn't work you may want to consider giving a hosted dongle a try.

u/b_coin · 4 pointsr/worldnews

>As for a Rasberry Pi with a wifi dongle, the reception would not be acceptable for the size of my home,

why not

And again, at 20Mbps I would argue even a raspberry pi is overkill for your needs but the most power efficient and again safe from unnecessary complexity (because all those pci slots are additional connectors waiting to eventually be shorted out by debris floating around in the room)

u/Teravicious · 4 pointsr/battlestations

Some additional photos can be found HERE. Full specs are below:

Rig on the right:

  • Cyberpower GXIVR8060A4 Gaming PC - Link
  • i5 7400 CPU 3.0 GHz
  • Asus Prime B250-A Motherboard
  • NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 3GB
  • 120GB SATA SSD
  • 1TB HDD
  • ASUS VG248QE Black 24" Gaming Monitor - Link
  • CRYORIG H7 Cooler - Link
  • Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000MHz 16gb (4 x 4GB) DDR4 (CMK8GX4M2B3000C15) - Link
  • Logitech G413 Gaming Keyboard - Link
  • Furmax Executive Racing Chair - Link
  • BrosTrend 1200Mbps Long Range USB WiFi Adapter - Link
  • Bose Companion 2 Multimedia Speakers - Link
  • Coulax Wireless Qi Charger - Link
  • Dechanic Mini Control Gaming Mouse Pad (red) - Link

    Rig on the left

  • Dell XPS 8700
  • I7 4790 CPU 3.6GHz
  • 16GB DDR3L 1600MHz (4x4GB)
  • NVIDIA GeForce GTX 750Ti 2GB DDR5
  • 2TB HDD
  • 32GB SATA SSD
  • Dell 23” Touchscreen IPS LED Monitor (P2314T) - Link
  • Logitech C922x Pro Stream Webcam - Link
  • Bose Companion 2 Multimedia Speakers - Link
  • Auray BAI-2U Broadcast Arm w/Internal Springs and Integrated USB Cable - Link
  • Samson CO1U USB Condenser Microphone - Link
  • Koolertron Universal 50MM Microphone Shock Mount - Link
  • Dragonpad Pop Filter - Link
  • Dechanic Mini Control Gaming Mouse Pad (red) - Link
  • Furmax Executive Racing Chair - Link

    Desk

  • 1 x LILLTRASK White 98” Countertop - Link
  • 2 x ALEX Drawer/File Unit - Link
  • 1 x GODVIN White Leg - Link
  • Nexlux LED Strip Lights - Link
  • Viaky 30 Pcs Black Adhesive Clips (for cable management) - Link
  • Google Home Mini (to control desk lights) - Link
u/akelis · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

... Really?

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=ADB+TO+USB+ADAPTER

Yes, it does exist. And you can buy one on Amazon.

u/whaddupmayne · 4 pointsr/HowToHack

Seriously? No one said it? You can't do it with your built in wireless card 80% of the time. Get an AWUS036HN

u/Subculture1000 · 4 pointsr/AndroidTV

I use this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Chromebook-Specific/dp/B003VSTDFG

It has built in drivers in Android. Plug it in, and the Nexus Player will automatically use it instead of wifi.

If you're ONLY plugging it in with no hub, use this:

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-5in-Micro-Host-Adapter/dp/B00B4GGW5Q

Edit:
Sorry, I saw that you linked to Amazon.ca, so:

Network Adapter:

http://www.amazon.ca/Plugable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B003VSTDFG/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

USB Dongle:

http://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-5-Inch-Female-On-The-Go-Adapter/dp/B00B4GGW5Q/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

u/VA7EEX · 4 pointsr/raspberry_pi

> Edimax EW-7811UTC

He isn't using the onboard wifi

u/Palak314 · 4 pointsr/gaming

Just going to piggy back this comment., since he asked for something with "wireless features" that most people seem to miss on the builds and people that don't build sometimes think are expensive.

$8 USB bluetooth 4.0 dongle

$17 usb wireless ac dualband adapter

so the added wireless features comes to an additional $25. Frankly the most expensive part that tends to get left out of these builds is the bluray drive which go for $40 or so, but those are all but completely outdated for modern pc use via streaming/steam/etc.

u/CodeThree · 3 pointsr/HowToHack

Some links of interest.


Kali Linux - Pen Testing Distro:

http://www.kali.org/

VMWare Player to run it in:

https://my.vmware.com/web/vmware/free#desktop_end_user_computing/vmware_player/6_0

A good and simple hacking Wargame site. Its worth checking this out to learn the basics:

http://www.overthewire.org/wargames/

Vulnerable VM's to test your skills on:

https://community.rapid7.com/docs/DOC-1875

http://www.dvwa.co.uk/

http://www.offensive-security.com/metasploit-unleashed/Requirements

And one of the handiest wireless NIC's you could own:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Alfa-AWUS036H-802-11b-Wireless-network/dp/B002WCEWU8

u/dimview · 3 pointsr/guns
u/[deleted] · 3 pointsr/techsupport

From the amazon product description:

Includes driver for Windows 2000, XP 32/64, Vista 32/64, Windows 7, Linux (2.4.x/2.6.x), Mac (MacOS 10.3 - 10.5)
The Mount design to easily clinging on Notebook, Netbook and Window.
Supports Windows, Macintosh, and Linux Now works with Windows 7 just ask us for the Link
For MAC OS 10.6.7 and later version, we suggest AWUS036NHR, AWUS036NH, AWUS036NEH, AWUS051NH.

u/sauky · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

If you have Home Assistant already running, from what I understand, you should be able to get a USB zwave dongle like this. You'll then be able to connect zwave devices to Home Assistant, which will take care of your light switches.
Harmony Hub is great. The phone app is ok at best but tied with Echo or G home it works great.

u/crithon · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

I run it on a Linux pc., specifically Ubuntu Server 14.04. It can also be installed on Mac and Windows.

You will need extra hardware to interact with most devices(I think WeMo products work without anything extra). Here is a list of the different hardware hubs they support. I use the ISY from Universal Devices, and setup was a breeze. I think the Z-Stick is popular, but have no experience with it myself.

u/ziebelje · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

OpenHAB is probably the way you want to go with this. OpenHAB basically just provides you with an API that you can use to send predefined commands to it's supported hardware. It's nice because it can connect to tons of proprietary gear...someone's spent the time looking up documentation or reverse engineering the particular ZigBee or Z-Wave commands and implementing it for you. If you like really low level stuff, you can actually skip OpenHAB entirely and send the commands yourself. It's more involved but still possible.

Home automation devices are largely all ZigBee or Z-Wave these days. Z-Wave is more widely used. You can get a Z-Wave USB stick like this and get started. That should work with OpenHAB on Windows, Linux, or Raspberry Pi. It basically just creates a new device on the mesh network that can send commands to other things. Very little is hardwired anymore and battery life for most things is 1-2 years easy.

Unless you really like building your own hardware, I would mostly stick with what's already out there. You can't beat the quality and battery life of some of these products. As long as a proprietary HUB isn't required then it's fine.

As far as manual overrides, that's going to vary. If you build your system right you should be able to completely shut off all of your automation software and still use your house normally. Here's a good read that was recently posted about this. So for a thermostat, make sure you have a physical thermostat where cloud operation is secondary and only an added convenience just in case your Internet goes down. For lights, don't just fill your house with Hue lights that you can only turn on from an app. Your wall switches still need to work. Physical redundancy is largely up to you as the system manager but be sure to not buy devices that require an Internet connection in order to work.

The best advice I have is to take your time. I was new to this a couple months ago but I've been following this subreddit very actively. There's a lot to learn and home automation is still young enough that everyone in the game is still sort of finding their way. We don't know all the answers yet so sometimes you just have to research a lot and figure it out.

Edit: I'm working on my own open source home automation software solution that I will likely use alongside OpenHAB. It's web based and is slowly getting there. PM me if you're interested and I can set up my demo for you.

u/cmbeid · 3 pointsr/nexusplayer

I purchased this Ethernet adapter. It has worked on my Nexus 5 and Nexus Player. No idea about the compatibility of your linked product you purchased.

u/jaffster123 · 3 pointsr/tails

No, the issue is that Tails uses an old kernel and many modern Wireless adapters aren't supported.

Buy an Atheros card, these are 100% supported. I'm using one of these which works in Tails (and can do packet injection if you ever become interested in Wireless penetration / hacking) :

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Network-AWUS036NHA-802-11b-wireless-adapter/dp/B004Y6MIXS

u/TheRealRacker · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Of course if your PC is right next to the router use wired, but that's often not the case. I had this card for 2 years, never dropped connection or had speeds slower than what our provider advertised: http://www.amazon.com/PCE-N15-performance-Wireless-N-Transmit-interface/dp/B0053GR2YI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1406252058&sr=8-4&keywords=asus+wifi+card

I got wifi through several walls, it's strength is for sure better than a laptop. Just as long as you have a good router. Now I'm using the built in wifi on my itx board, and still I have no problems.

u/OSPFv3 · 3 pointsr/techsupport

You may want to consider this powerline kit.

Disregard USB.

Verify you have pci slots.

http://amzn.com/B005NHIQ06

u/stevenmi89 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Isn't upgrading to W8.1 free?

My step-dad bought a 600 dollar Acer laptop (W8) Dec 2013 just for web browsing and stuff and his kept disconnecting from Wifi, etc. I bought him a 10 dollar micro usb wifi adapter and just disabled the internal wifi card and it's fine now.

Should try buying a micro usb adapter and see if it works then. I bought this one: http://www.amazon.com/Panda-Ultra-Wireless-Adapter-150Mbps/dp/B00762YNMG

u/Jimmacle · 3 pointsr/HowToHack

I use this WiFi adapter with Kali Linux and it works flawlessly. A Raspberry Pi is also very good since you can image Kali or another pentesting platform on it. Speaking of Kali Linux, it includes a ton of tools that are quite useful.

u/tallbeerlover · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If you can plug in using a wire, I recommend doing so, as it is faster and more stable. You can pick your color/length for solid price here.

If you're in a situation where you can't plug into your router/modem, then wifi is your next choice. Something like this will work just fine, but if you're comfortable attaching a card to your motherboard, this will provide a stronger and more reliable experience.

u/Cuperhu · 3 pointsr/Ubuntu

A good way to gauge compatliablity is looking at Amazon reviews by using their keyword search.

It's has a couple reviews with Ubuntu users. Older reviewers (2013-2014) had problems. More recent reviews (2015-2016) seem to indicate it works fine. I'd imagine it's gotten improved kernel support since its release.

Edit: It's shipped and sold by Amazon. So if you do come across issues they'll refund and pay for return shipping within 30 days of purchase. So it's a good way to test it out without too many worries.

u/MechaCoffeeBean · 3 pointsr/buildapc

This is my one

ASUS USB-BT400 Bluetooth 4.0 USB Adapter Backward Compatible with Bluetooth 2.0/2.1/3.0 - Black https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00CM83SC0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_c82nyb950Q01F

Paired with
Creative Sound Blaster JAM Ultra Light Bluetooth Headset https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00SBBDDR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Lb3nyb8E1PH1J

I'm pretty happy.

u/zardvark · 3 pointsr/SolusProject

Life is too short and USB adapters are cheap. Stop fighting with the EW-7811 and get something that is known to work: https://www.amazon.com/Panda-300Mbps-Wireless-USB-Adapter/dp/B00EQT0YK2

This installs the latest 64-bit Nvidia binary:

$ sudo eopkg it nvidia-glx-driver

If you wish to use Steam, you will also want to install the latest 32-bit version of the driver:

$ sudo eopkg it nvidia-glx-driver-32bit

u/SMRNS2017 · 3 pointsr/Kalilinux

Here is a basic one for 14$. It will support all monitor and injection mode, it's still still pretty good for a basic wifi adapter.

Panda 300Mbps Wireless N USB Adapter

But if you to go to the top notch level and get the best of best wifi adapters. I suggest go with this one. It's super powerful with the fast Atheros chip, supports all the necessary modes, and it's still not an outrageous price.

Alfa Awus036nha

u/nburgin · 3 pointsr/linuxquestions

Either there is no built-in wireless adapter at all, or Linux can't see it.

You may have to buy one. In my experience, WiFi adapters can be hit-or-miss on linux. If you're lucky, you can go to the store and buy one and it will work out of the box. If not, you may have to return it to the store and try a different model, as many times as necessary until you find one that works.

I know on my old Dell laptop, it had a builtin wireless adapter that worked fine. When we needed to hook up a desktop computer at home to WiFi, we bought a cheap one from the store, and again it works out of the box.

Then the next time we needed to hook up an additional desktop to Wifi, we bought another adapter and it didn't work. That time we had to try at least 3 different ones before we found one that worked right.

Your mileage may vary. But whatever you do, don't waste time trying to get it to work if it doesn't do so out of the box. This is utterly futile; most mainstream distributions ship with all wireless drivers preinstalled have all wireless drivers readily available in the repository, so if you don't already have the driver available by default can't easily install the driver using the package manager, then it simply doesn't exist. Just take the thing back to the store for a refund and try a different one if it doesn't work.

Just make sure you buy from a store with a good return policy.

-----------------

EDIT: correction. Ubuntu actually seems to package firmwares individually, so you might have to find and install the proper firmware for your adapter. Or, if you don't know which one is the right one, just install all of them just to be safe, that should work fine too. Either way, they should be easily installable like any other package, if they exist at all. If you find yourself thinking you might need to do some kind of complicated workaround, don't. Just take it back to the store and try a different one.

-------------

EDIT 2: Or, you could just buy one specifically labeled as being supported under linux, that would definitely take the guesswork out of it. Like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Panda-300Mbps-Wireless-USB-Adapter/dp/B00EQT0YK2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482805974&sr=8-3&keywords=linux+wireless+usb+adapter

If you want one that's guaranteed to work with Linux, you'll probably have to order online. Most that you buy in stores are only labeled as working with Windows and maybe Mac; they might work just fine with Linux anyway but it's sort of a crapshoot. In those cases it's nearly impossible to know from the packaging, since sometimes even adapters that are marketed as the exact same product may actually use different chipsets internally.

I've always taken my chances with the in-store purchases due to convenience of not having to wait for shipping, but buying a specifically Linux-oriented one online would certainly take the guesswork out of it.

u/K900_ · 3 pointsr/archlinux

Then something like this probably - it's not Atheros, but it's Ralink (aka MediaTek), and works fine. It's probably as much as you're going to get for ten bucks.

u/MIH-Dave · 3 pointsr/linux4noobs

Yes, there are multiple USB WiFi adapters that will work with Linux. I just received a EDIMAX AC600 for a small work project that came with the Linux drivers on CD.

A co-worker also purchased an [Alpha Long-Range AC1200] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VEEBOPG/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_4tklDbRERW39Y) and has it working with Kali.

By no means is this an extensive list, but just a couple that I've seen success with in the past few days alone.

u/funk_monk · 3 pointsr/buildapc

The TP-link Archer line are pretty decent. I have a T2U and it's fast enough that I can max out my internet connection - which is all I really need it to do since I don't really transfer files over LAN.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JBJ6VG8/ref=twister_B00RGP7KW8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

u/CBRjack · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Hard to tell since you can't access the router to troubleshoot. It's a shot in the dark, but since you can get an excellent dongle for about $25 on Amazon it's a good way to find out.

u/a1pha · 3 pointsr/computing

Netgear AC1200 Wi-Fi USB Adapter High Gain Dual Band USB 3.0

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MRVJY1G/ref=twister_B01HIS9M3M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

u/notarealperson6000 · 3 pointsr/Defcon

No not all of them come with the clip. My first Alfa card didn’t come with a clip. I just ordered Alfa Long-Range Dual-Band AC1200 Wireless USB 3.0 Wi-Fi Adapter w/2x 5dBi External Antennas - 2.4GHz 300Mbps/5GHz 867Mbps - 802.11ac & A, B, G, N https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VEEBOPG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vG4hDbF6ZJXR2 a couple of days ago and it came with the clips.

u/freakingwilly · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If you have the PCIE slot to spare, I highly recommend using that instead. You can get much better performance in both power and speed over the USB option. That being said, here are four recommendations based on your needs:

  1. USB, budget - BrosTrend, $26
  2. USB, performance - ASUS USB-AC68, $76
  3. PCIE, budget - TP-Link Archer T4E, $35
  4. PCIE, performance - ASUS PCE-AC68, $87

    Personally, I have the PCE-AC68 that I bought for $75 3 years ago and it's still rocking.
u/aloof_topping · 3 pointsr/linux4noobs

There are plenty that do say they work with Linux, and plenty show up if you search for it.

​

In general: Try to pick an Atheros or Intel-based wifi card/adapter. Those are pretty universally plug and play. Realtek and Broadcom are iffy on whether they will work right away or not.

u/wickeddimension · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Yes I do (Althought I always recommend Cable over Wifi ,but I'll just assume that isn't a possiblity for you :P )

The Archer T series are good. The 3 models come up as top, T6E , T8E , T9E. Some do 802.11AC wifi others don't. Depends on your router and home network if you would have any use for that.

Those are all PCI Cards you place inside your PC. The Asus PCE-AC68 also deserves a mention if we are talking about High performance Wireless cards. Althought its expensive.

You can also go the USB route, you'll end up with dongles like this Netgear AC1200 which is a excellent USB options, but once again pricey (See the trend, dont worry we are getting there)

A more affordable PCI Options would be this TP-LINK WDN4800 N900 or a USB dongle like this TP-Link WDN4200 N900

And if you are really low on funds you could go for something like the Asus USB-N13 for 18$ or TP-Link N300 which is only 11$.

Personally I'd recommend you grab the TP N900, either the PCI or USB variant would do fine , PCI is faster, USB is probably a bit more versatile as you can use it with any PC/Laptop. N900 gets great reviews all around and it supports 802.11N , should be plenty fast for gaming. One issue the N900 seems to have is Digital signage with W10 ,so you need a different driver than the official one to get by this issue and use 5ghz. Not sure if thats relevant for you.

Either way ,you see the trend, Asus and TP-link are really my go2brands for anything networking.

I realize I still gave you a ton of choices, might not be the most helpful, but atleast you'll have some direction to look.

u/mrsolo · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Wireless adapter is pretty much a mass commodity product now. They are all pretty inexpensive (if you don't go for 4x4 ones). The #1 issue with them is the driver/os compatibility. You can check amazon review for a particular product for that (pce-i adapater tends to run into this type of issue more than usb one).

the 2nd issue, this is somewhat usb adapter specific is dissipation. some of those mini usb ones just aren't designed for continuous operation. I am using this one. It works

u/spiffiness · 2 pointsr/wifi

I'd recommend this Netgear USB 3.0 / AC1200 for $26

Since it's 2017, it's a good idea to get something dual-band, 802.11ac-capable, capable of at least 2 spatial streams, and that uses USB 3.0 or better (USB 2.0 is too slow to keep up with 802.11ac dongles). Netgear is a long-established brand name in home networking, and hopefully that $26 price doesn't break the bank.

u/-WB-Spitfire · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Most motherboards don't come with wifi capabilities by default. You can, however, add wifi to the PC.

USB: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Adapter-Archer-T2UH/dp/B00UZRVY12/

u/thebadshepperd · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Most of the new Xfinity combo routers are dual 2.4 and 5ghz. Look on the front of yours and see if there is a 5ghz status light.

If it does have 5ghz, see if your laptop (that works fine) also has 5ghz. Most new laptops and phones do. If it does, then you've figured out why it works for one device and not the other! The 5ghz frequency is much less crowded than 2.4 and is an absolute miracle in crowded apartment complexes where there are many hotspots.

If it turns out that the 5ghz works fine, then the simplest solution to your problem would probably just be to buy a new adapter for your computer that supports 5ghz

u/TheNASAguy · 2 pointsr/razer

This should work just fine for you but you could also get This as an alternative.

u/onlyslightlybiased · 2 pointsr/buildmeapc

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/D8jVNQ

Good Value Pc with all of the components that you'd need to build the Pc and run it including a copy of Windows( except maybe a Wifi adapter if you wanted to ue the internet and didnt have ethernet , link here if you did need to purchase one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UZRVY12/?tag=pcpapi-20 )

​

If you need help with the build, guides like these https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhX0fOUYd8Q are excellent , however if you do have any problems during the build , reddit will be more than happy to help

u/Freonr2 · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Any commidity ~$15-20 USB dual-band wifi dongle would probably do just fine. Depends on how congested your wifi bands are, you may want to take a look using something like Wifi Analyzer (mobile app). One with a proper antenna may do better if your signal isn't as good, but I've used the tiny pinky-sized ones before in more suburban areas without issue. If you're packed in an apartment or dense living with a billion WAPs you may want better equipment on both the router and adapter side.

ex.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN725N-wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B0088TKTY2

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-T2UH-Dual-Band-Compatible/dp/B00UZRVY12

The cheaper no-name ones may still be just fine as well.

u/mhero94 · 2 pointsr/wifi

i have been there, look 99% global brands of Usb Adapters dont even have good advanced features like aggressive roaming, channel selection, mode and stuff, too limited.
I dont know what exactly you are trying to achieve here, if it's higher range because Hotel's AP is far from you then go with antenna based usb adapters no nano will save you,
if it's speed issues i doubt it has something to do with your Laptob, hotel bandwidth maybe limited,
unless you explain further i can't really help out..
if you want a blind suggestion for strong USB adapter
here you go :https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Wireless-External/dp/B00VEEBOPG?ref_=ast_bbp_dp

u/Lemons81 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I use power lan's to connect to my network, faster then wifi and better pings, have you considered this?

If this would also not an option, sometimes I use an USB high power wifi adapter

Alfa Long-Range Dual-Band AC1200 Wireless USB 3.0 Wi-Fi Adapter w/2x 5dBi External Antennas - 2.4GHz 300Mbps/5GHz 867Mbps - 802.11ac & A, B, G, N
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VEEBOPG/

This thing penetrante walls like crazy, and has an insane range.

u/mxcrazy1998 · 2 pointsr/HowToHack

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VEEBOPG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dI8.Cb9ZDQDQ2?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf


You’ll need one of these. There’s YouTube tutorials for MAC address changing and how to remain undetected when you do this. Don’t browse anything that will get you in trouble.

u/grapesdown · 2 pointsr/techsupport

If you really don't want to connect via Ethernet then buy a new wifi adapter preferably AC STANDARD

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B018TX8IDA/ref=psdcmw_13983791_t2_B01CCMUN8C

u/CelicetheGreat · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

How would this compare to the adapter I bought last year? The current price difference is $3.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018TX8IDA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/kdvjcv · 2 pointsr/Truckers

I had issues with the P/FJ wifi as well, always crap signal. Bought a USB wifi dongle doohickey, made a huge difference. Their internet is usually fast enough for streaming movies/youtube/etc., but you have to be able to connect first. https://www.amazon.com/ANEWKODI-600Mbps-150Mbps-433Mbps-Wireless/dp/B01G8IPLD8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1499728206&sr=8-4&keywords=usb+wifi+dongle

u/BluePotato00 · 2 pointsr/simracing

Sim Racing Hardware:

u/Rjbowles · 2 pointsr/EtherMining

ANEWKODI 600Mbps Dual Band (2.4G/150Mbps+5G/433Mbps) Wireless USB Wifi Adapter,802.11N/G/B Antenna Network Lan Card For Windows XP/Vista/7/8/8.1/10 (3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G8IPLD8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_BU4G2uv7YJY6T

Is the adapter. I use TP-Link smart plugs on my rigs and they work fantastic anywhere in the world I have cell coverage

u/kmal808 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Plug this into your PC and connect to wifi.

u/frito123 · 2 pointsr/Laptop

All of those will have the same issue as the card you have. Do verify the antenna wires are snapped in place. For speed and signal strength I suggest something like this or even better this.

u/kokolordas15 · 2 pointsr/CabaloftheBuildsmiths

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/LwxfrH/trendnet-wireless-network-card-tew805ub

this one is decent and small

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IEU7UZ0/

this one offers strong signal but of course there are more expensive options with possibly better results.

u/SirFinnickIII · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Sounds good! Do you have any recommendations for a usb wifi adapter? This is one I'm looking at: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J65G9DD/?coliid=I1TA0FV1XZU4BT&colid=3SD80H67P96XW&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

u/pocketknifeMT · 2 pointsr/digitalnomad

One could make a ghetto channel bonding router of sorts fairly simply, but that's probably overkill for the average lone nomad.

Or with the advent of thunderbolt/usb3.1, you could even just do it with your one computer if you aren't doing a vehicle.

Speedify will let you bond a bunch of connections together and short of thousands and thousands of dollars in equipment, it's the best thing going.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UhBeD5fRAmY

you can just keep slapping wan connections in whenever you are. take an arbitrary number of 4G, wifi, ethernet sources and combine them for bandwidth and latency improvements.

As a thought exercise lets take this picture and built out something for it.

1 person, 1 laptop, carry-on travel mode style. It's gonna be very Dongle-y, so it's practical mostly for when you camp out somewhere for a while to work. This probably isn't worth setting up at the airport unless you are trapped a good long while.

That laptop we want to have a solid peripheral bus with lots of bandwidth. Ideally Thunderbolt 3, but the 10gb USB, or honestly probably even the 5gb USB is gonna do for most people anyway.

Then we get a hub device with lots of ports on it.

This thing probably has at least USB3.1, and thus 5.0gb of bandwidth there probably.

amazon makes a perfectly serviceable hub with external power option:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-10-Port-Power-Adapter/dp/B076YRWV6Z/

Then you grab a few usb3.0 to gigabit ethernet adapters for flexibility of input:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1000-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00M77HMU0/

plus some USB wifi adapters (so you can get on multiple wifi networks at once)

This is apparently the amazon favorite. Having an actual antenna is nice.

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-1200Mbps-TECHKEY-Wireless-Network-300Mbps/dp/B07J65G9DD/

plus USB 4G modem sticks you can put local sims in. This is all gonna depend on where you travel. NA is different from Asia, etc.

Verizon offers one for $250 they claim works in 200 countries. On the other end, a Huawei stick that works in most of the world is like $60 and you can just keep popping sims in and out of them as you travel around and grab local ones. You can probably even just buy modems locally too as you travel. If you aren't buying from a carrier in north america, it's generally gonna be easy and painless.

You could also use phones as well. cheap ones have modems that can max most towers anyway, and they mostly all use the same antenna design now.

Some little baby usb extensions so you aren't fighting to fit things in your hub:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Black-Extension-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00S2N2Q4U/

All those things are tiny and can go in a little electronics roll or bag or something at the bottom of a backpack:
https://www.amazon.com/ProCase-Electronics-Organizer-Universal-Accessories/dp/B01EN4PP4E/

u/JohnYonder · 2 pointsr/apple

There is such a thing as a ADB to USB adapter, but I can't vouch for how well they work.

u/_superbatman_ · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Apple Extended Keyboard II FTW! If you're not good with soldering, you can always get this to use those ADB keyboards with USB computers.

u/___cats___ · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Here's the easiest method.

If you don't have a cable, get this. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0044B3JYK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1417583525&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

You'll need this to convert to USB http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000067V8L/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1417583603&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

You might be able to find the converter somewhere else online cheaper, but I think Griffin is the only one who makes them.

And you'll need this to remap your arrows because by default they're LRDU instead of the more logical LDUR https://pqrs.org/osx/karabiner/

If you end up doing this, PM me and I'll send you the custom XML for Karabiner to remap the keys.

u/shibz314 · 2 pointsr/linuxquestions

The alfa works great on Linux, I did a bit of googling and your wireless card seems supported. Could u try a live usb of Linux to test.

u/mediumhard · 2 pointsr/UBC

Are you sure you can't get on UBC wifi? Not like the signals just stop at the edge of UBC buildings....

cough https://www.amazon.ca/Alfa-AWUS036H-802-11b-Wireless-network/dp/B002WCEWU8 cough

u/Jackbacket · 2 pointsr/AskReddit

Software download: http://www.backtrack-linux.org/

Hardware: http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036H

That's all I'll share, look up the rest.

u/hgpot · 2 pointsr/buildapc

That wi-fi card is only b/g...

WD Green is a very slow hard drive and you will not like it. You have your SSD for boot, but your games are not going to open very quickly from that 5400rpm drive. Try Blue or (even better) Black.

u/aaiceman · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I found the amazon reviews here, so I think they can answer most of my questions. Thanks for pointing out the adapter and your experience with it. :)

u/daddylo21 · 2 pointsr/Comcast

Replace the network card, which is usually built into the motherboard of the computer, which would mean a new motherboard or new computer depending on the age/upgradablity of your computer.

You could also try giving one of these a try as a cheaper option. https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Chromebook/dp/B003VSTDFG

u/GrandpaHappyHands · 2 pointsr/Steam

It will work, but expect heavy lag spikes and high latency from time to time. There are also Ethernet-over-USB adapters such as this one. I haven't tried them out personally, but it might be worth looking into that, not just for the steam link problem. A nice option to keep in your back pocket should you ever need it.

u/Keith_St0ne · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Ahh okay. I figured they just used "Print server" more of a naming scheme than it actually be tailored for printers. Dumb to think that but hey marketing is weird. Thanks!

Addition Would I be able to use this?
http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Chromebook-Specific/dp/B003VSTDFG/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_53

u/jtenniswood · 2 pointsr/nexusplayer

And if you get fed up with poor WiFi performance, give this adaptor a go (you'll also need a micro USB host cable). Works like a charm.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B003VSTDFG

u/gerberly · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

Your range could be limited due to usb power. Although saying that I previously used one of these to extend my wifi range, even though it's not really the main purpose.

There was a thread the other day about repeating wifi in the van. Spurned me on to buy a second-hand router to fiddle with. But there's also talk of travel routers so might be worth a read.

u/mo_10 · 2 pointsr/HowToHack

I mean, if you are only using it for Packet injection and wifi hacking etc. Id definetly go for the Alfa card especially the Alfa AWUS036NHA Ive got it and it does everything i need it to. but if you also want to use it for everyday use and you have internet speeds of over 70mpbs id say get another one if you really want to be getting over 70mpbs


i get about 75mpbs with ethernet and with my alfa card which is directly ontop of my moderm i get about 50mpbs

u/HBucket · 2 pointsr/openbsd

As others have said, OpenBSD isn't great as an access point. But if you are going to choose a USB device in Host AP, I recommend athn(4) devices. Specifically, AR9271 devices. I understand that the Alfa AWUS036NHA, which is popular with the Kali Linux kiddies, uses that chipset. But if you're looking to save some money, you can search for "AR9271" on eBay and find plenty of generic Chinese USB devices with that chipset. Though you obviously have fewer guarantees of quality. I have one of these adapters, and I've found it very reliable, though I've mostly used it in client mode rather than as a Host AP.

u/TonyDYA · 2 pointsr/hacking

Kali VM will not accept your laptop's wireless card. You need to plug the external wireless adapter. I would recommend this one

u/v3ded · 2 pointsr/HowToHack

You won’t see wlan0 wireless interface due to how virtualization works. Your real wireless adapter is being used by your host OS. Parrot receives that connection as ethernet - ifconfig should show eth0, that’s why you have internet connection.


If you want to have wlan0 interface you need an external wireless adapter and pass it to that VM in Vbox / Vmware settings. I recommend https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NHA-Wireless-USB-Adaptor/dp/B004Y6MIXS/ or TPLINK WN722N.

u/ruining_our_ants · 2 pointsr/Kalilinux

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y6MIXS/

Been using this for over a year. Zero issues. Picks up everything great and seems to come highly recommended from the Kali community. I also got the mounting bracket to clip it to the top of my display on my laptop, and a shorter 1.5 ft. cable to keep it neat.

Edit: I also use a Lenovo x200, 8gb DDR3L, i5 same gen and 120gb ssd. Love that little thing. My boss gave it to me after her upgraded and I knew immediately what I wanted to do with it.

u/mojo_rex · 2 pointsr/buildapc

it has a pci express 16X (the blue slot) and a pci 1x (the white slot below it) you'll need a 1x wireless card

u/rmk236 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Yes, you can just replace it and the kernel should notice and automatically load the right drivers. I use this wifi on my computer and every distro I threw at it worked flawlessly (Manjaro, Ubuntu 18.04, Ubuntu 18.10).

Oh, sorry, I just noticed that you are running a laptop rather than a desktop! I am not sure about wireless in laptops, I am sorry. Still, it is odd that it does not work. I take you already tried using Ndiswrapper.

u/peaceoutwhat · 2 pointsr/buildapc

There are these from intel that combines the two. Alernatively you could get the bluetooth, and wifi adapters seperately.

u/clupean · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Buy an extension card or an adapter cable. With the card you'll get the actual USB 3.0 speed but with the cables it'll just be USB 2.0.

edit: You have to use a PCI Wifi card. Place the USB 3.0 header extension card in the newly freed pcie x1 slot.

u/Superpickle18 · 2 pointsr/computers

if you can find me a wifi card that can saturate the 1Gb/s bandwidth (and that's at the slowest configuration), you let me know because i want one too ;)

Anyway, pretty much any TP-link cards are good.

idk your budget, but https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Express-Adapter-TL-WDN4800/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0DV05YA0Y15599SSQ3AM

there's also the AC version for the best performace possible. (you'll need a AC capability wifi access point too)

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Adapter-300Mbps-TL-WN851ND/dp/B005NHIQ06/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1494535318&sr=1-3&keywords=tp+link+pci

if you want to utilize the pci slot. and don't want to spend $20 more.

more search results

u/pndur · 2 pointsr/linuxhardware

This one called Panda wireless is good too if you have spare USB ports. I have 3 of them and they work flawlessly on Ubuntu, Windows10 and also I tested on apricity.

https://www.amazon.com/Panda-Ultra-150Mbps-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B00762YNMG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484588642&sr=8-3&keywords=panda+wireless

u/Ockvil · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Overall a solid start, but here's what I'd do for under $900:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $198.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-B150M-DS3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $63.98 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $32.27 @ NCIX US
Storage | A-Data Premier SP550 480GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $112.98 @ NCIX US
Video Card | PowerColor Radeon RX 470 4GB Red Dragon Video Card | $194.98 @ Newegg
Case | Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case | $29.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $43.49 @ SuperBiiz
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $88.88 @ OutletPC
Monitor | Acer G226HQLBbd 21.5" 60Hz Monitor | $90.98 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $896.54
| Mail-in rebates | -$40.00
| Total | $856.54
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-01 18:17 EDT-0400 |

Main differences from your build:

B150 motherboard, for extra DIMM slots and USB3 and SATA3 ports. The DIMM slots are the most important, since that lets you go with 2x4GB and save a few dollars on memory and still have 2 open slots for upgrading to 16GB down the road. Not bad for only $10 more.

Double the SSD capacity. ~250GB is a little tight for your only storage, but 480GB gives plenty of room for your OS and a bunch of Steam games. Stay with PNY if you want, I put in the ADATA SP550 because I have it and can recommend it, but the PNY CS1311 480GB is roughly the same for only a few bucks more.

Case is just a placeholder, use whatever you like but the Cooler Master N200 is a decent well-regarded mATX case and $30 is a decent price for it.

It's very difficult, or perhaps the word is 'impossible', to find an aftermarket 480 at the reference MSRP. The 470 is the current best bang-for-the-buck for 1080p@60Hz gaming, I put in the cheapest 4GB one I could find on pcpp but if you bargain hunt (or use a new user discount code on jet) you might find one for less.

The monitor you have is a 1600x900 resolution one, it's not really that much more for a 1080p and at 20"+ I don't know that 1600x900 resolution will be adequate. Acer makes good budget 1080p monitors, but there are several at that price point, take your pick.

I didn't add a wifi adapter. If you want a PCIe one for some reason, that seems fine, but for home use I think a USB one is adequate. I got this one for $10 and it worked great for me until I got around to running an ethernet cable. https://www.amazon.com/Panda-Ultra-150Mbps-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B00762YNMG

A non-stock CPU cooler is only necessary if you are overclocking or need an absolutely quiet CPU fan for some reason or have a master plan for how your build looks with your case open. The stock one will be perfectly fine if none of these apply.

u/digitalife · 2 pointsr/techsupport

You might be able to get a $15 USB dongle for WIFI and create a hotspot once you're connected on a Laptop.

I'm not guaranteeing that this will work but it could be worth a shot.

http://www.amazon.com/Panda-150Mbps-Wireless-N-2-4GHz-Adapter/dp/B003283M6Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1376860296&sr=8-2&keywords=panda+wireless

http://www.amazon.com/Panda-150Mbps-Wireless-N-2-4GHz-Adapter/dp/B00762YNMG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376860296&sr=8-1&keywords=panda+wireless

If all else fails you can ask other students to see what their solutions are.

Edit: More info

What I meant is that you connect to the wifi on a laptop using your internal card, then make a hotspot using the wireless dongle.

I do this at my dorm. I connect via ethernet and then broadcast my own wifi using a dongle.

Also: It's important to note that most of the time schools block ports. Even if you find a solution it might not work still.

u/Takeabyte · 2 pointsr/applehelp

I would recommend first going to a local Apple Authorized Service Provider (unless the one Apple Store in Alaska is close to you) and get a quote from them. Let them take a look at it and see what it costs to get a built in card from them since it will perform much better than anything else.

If whatever their cost is is too expensive for you, it may be possible to install one yourself. What is the model number for your Mac?

As for USB options... This one looks promising. Unfortunately, I have zero experience using these adapters with a Mac and reviews for the brands I go to first are a bit mixed. So don't just settle for the one I found until you've looked around a bit.

u/bondiblueos9 · 2 pointsr/applehelp

A couple years ago I purchased this one from Panda Wireless:
http://www.amazon.com/Panda-Ultra-Wireless-Adapter-150Mbps/dp/B00762YNMG

They have other produces on their site http://www.pandawireless.com/Products%20%7C%20Panda%20Wireless.html , but this is a simple, small, N150, mac compatible dongle. The specific product links actually take you straight to amazon.

It works well, but the third-party interface it just not as nice as the built in airport interface. You have to install extra software (which they provide), and it opens when you plug in the dongle, but as far as I can tell you have to select which wireless network you want to use from your set up profiles or from a scan; you can't just have it connect to any available network that you have set up. But it works, and it works well enough that I have used it to share a single wifi connection to my other wifi devices.

u/drawkin · 2 pointsr/wacom

I don't own a Companion 2, so I can't say for sure, but I do own a companion 1 & wifi has always been super unreliable for me. I tried drivers for win 8, 8.1 & now 10 & it never wants to stay connected or connect at all. I finally broke down & bought a usb wifi adapter & it's been working perfectly ever since.

This is the one I bought back in 2015, they probably have nicer ones now:
https://amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Adapter-Raspberry-TL-WN823N/dp/B0088TKTY2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484011701&sr=8-3&keywords=wifi+usb+tp+link

u/farhanbasha · 2 pointsr/MatebookXPro
u/strontium · 2 pointsr/BackBox

USB adapter is the only way, VirtualBox can't use your computer's built-in WiFi.

I recently bought this TP-Link USB adapter and so far it's been fine, it worked right away with VirtualBox.

u/thriftygeo · 2 pointsr/pop_os

Bit of a strange one. A cursory web search shows that it should work, but Broadcom cards can be finicky. So, if you're struggling, give this a go in the first instance:

Open up terminal and type:
>sudo apt install bcmwl-kernel-source

Hit Enter, type in your password, then hit Enter again. After that, restart your computer.

NOTE

If it is already installed (the output will tell you something along the lines of "package already installed") then do the following:

>sudo apt purge bcmwl-kernel-source

Restart computer, open terminal and do it again:

>sudo apt install bcmwl-kernel-source

/NOTE

If that doesn't work, you may find some help here, where someone has had a similar problem to you. In there, you may be able to find the correct package (driver) by following the links in that guide, or having a bit of an Internet search for them.

That being said, it seems to be a major problem with BT dongles across the board. Therefore, it might be ideal to get a dongle that is out of the box compatible. I have used TP-Link TL-WN823N in the past on Linux and it works flawlessly (it has also been supported in the kernel since October 2010). For the grand total of £6.99, it is a no brainer.

Best of luck!

u/futuresounds · 2 pointsr/hackintosh

Hey, I use a simple USB dongle from ASUS which you can get on amazon . It worked out of the box, no Kexts or drivers required as far as I can remember. I’d love to use one of the Broadcom cards in a PCI-E adapter for native WiFi and Bluetooth with airdrop etc., but reliable looking ones seem hard to come by in the UK.

u/ChocoFeru · 2 pointsr/ffxiv

I used a basic USB dongle before, it was 4.0 Bluetooth. Now I have a 4.1 Bluetooth on the new PC (wich is for Wi-Fi too)

And no, that's true, the touchscreen doesn't work. You'll need DS4Windows if you wanna use it, but I had input lag problems before so I stopped using it. It might be my PC's problem, so the best you can do is to try it before!

Edit: I used this one before: https://www.amazon.es/ASUS-BT400-Adaptador-Bluetooth-negro/dp/B00CM83SC0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494574580&sr=8-4&keywords=bluetooth+usb+4.1

u/Tollowarn · 2 pointsr/techsupport
u/carlodelmazo · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR

Any should do, I bóught one from amazon the ASUs one but any should do the job, at least 4.0 or more, and any usb cable extensión

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ASUS-USB-BT400-Bluetooth-Backward-Compatible/dp/B00CM83SC0

I never got a problem but some people said if there is not good tracking it can be also the lighting in your environment, so maybe need to buy stronger lightbulbs if you have low ligh setup in your house.

Pd: but you are just like 15 days to rift s to be released, so my 2 cents is don’t pull the trigger yet bro, or maybe just get it in amazon so you are sure to be able to return it after you test it, I returned mine and didn’t got problems to get my money back

u/Cryse_XIII · 2 pointsr/PS4

is it the one you have linked


or is it the Bluetooth V4.0 version of the one you linked?

http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00CM83SC0/ref=noref?ie=UTF8&psc=1&s=computers

?

u/Stunan13 · 2 pointsr/RetroPie

I use this and it works great for my PS3 controllers

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00CM83SC0

u/Lyn_93 · 2 pointsr/italy

Il mio pc sta impazzendo, continua a dare bluescreen con errori diversi ogni volta. E vbb, dovrò formattare tutto.

Ieri ho finalmente preso un adattatore bluetooth per collegare le mie cuffie al pc fisso. Tutto bene, finché non faccio una chiamata su skype/discord/quello che è mentre gioco a qualcosa. Nei dispositivi di riproduzione compare un "Cuffie auricolari" (prima della chiamata c'è solo "Cuffie") che devo impostare come predefinito per sentire qualcosa, e sia la chiamata che il gioco si sentono malissimo. Se chiudo la chiamata torna tutto normale. Halp? Ho provato a impostare "Cuffie" come dispositivo predefinito per suono o chiamate, ma con skype aperto non sento più nulla.

u/Aeroshock · 2 pointsr/googlemusic

I'm running Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit, so nothing special. This is the dongle I'm using (link is actually a newer model of mine). No special software/hardware. When I connect the phone, a little media control window pops up on my PC screen that I can close if I want without breaking anything.

I have Tasker, but since as far as I can tell it can't be set to connect to a specific bluetooth device, I'll need to research and see if there's a plugin that will enable it to do so. Just haven't gotten to that yet.

u/teppec · 2 pointsr/Ubuntu

You should look for Wifi adapter which at the very least explicitly lists "Linux" as compatible OS. There are enough of them out there, for example this one. If you want to be 100% sure just use UTP cable, it's the ultimate trouble-free solution.


Haven't heard about trouble with AMD cpu, but if you are looking to do gaming with that integrated Radeon HD 7540D, I've always heard gaming on Linux (at this moment) is a bit better/easier on nvidia. Though from what I can see that 7540D is not "great" for gaming anyway (529 passmark score), which is about the same as Intel HD4400.

u/regack · 2 pointsr/buildapc

It looks pretty solid, I wish I could suggest something other than the 380x, but there aren't a lot of options in that price range right now. If there was a RX 470 or GTX 1050, those would probably be better, but they're vaporware right now. You could look around in /r/hardwareswap if you don't mind getting a used GPU for now, and upgrading it again later, that could possibly save you $50-80 or so.

>I really want an SSD to give myself faster boots and faster load times when I play games.

Great decision. 250GB is enough for windows + a few games. If you upgrade in the future, you can reuse that 250 as just a boot drive, and get another drive for other things. For now, as you say...

>I do have a medium-sized music library (~10,000 songs), but I feel like that's something that can go on an external hard drive, right? (I have a 1 TB external hard drive already.)

Media will stream just fine off of a USB 2.0 5200RPM external drive. I don't trust those to be on all the time, however (my computer is on 24/7). I dump less-used things onto a couple of 1TB WD Passport external drives.

If you wanted to make upgrades in the future a little easier from the start, you could get a second not-quite-as-great SSD and install games/music/whatever onto that. Something like this $38 Kingston 128GB. Make that secondary, put junk on it. When you want to change that out with a 512GB one down the road it'll be a little easier since you can just swap the secondary drive, copy the stuff back, and leave the boot drive alone. Everything will just work as it did before as long as the new drive ends up using the same driveletter as the old one.

I have a 250GB 850 EVO as my boot & basic apps drive and a 512GB BX100 Corsair for games/frequently used media/everything else - with less used media on external 1TB 2.5" drives.


>I would like to have a wifi card.

I just got one of these $15 Edimax EW-7811UTC AC600, and it's working just fine for me, especially at that price. I'm sure the PCIe one would be better, but I didn't have a spare PCIe on the mini-itx board I was using.

u/saiarcot895 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I'm using Edimax AC600 along with this driver. I can allocate a 40MHz channel and get a top link speed of 200 Mbps (there's only one spatial stream supported). Actual speeds are around 60-75 Mbps. I'm using two of these (one for 2.4GHz, one for 5GHz) for running an access point with hostapd, and it works pretty well for just getting a network up and running.

It appears that Edimax AC1200 nano with this driver might be able to support two spatial streams, but I don't have this USB adapter and can't confirm this.

u/gusgizmo · 2 pointsr/wireless

OP could use one of these http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WDR3500-Wireless-Router-300Mbps/dp/B0098QV038

Throw in a cheap 5ghz adapter if the client computer doesn't have it built in:

http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811UTC-Dual-Band-Connectivity-Exceeding/dp/B00FW6T36Y

$55 for dual-band is quite a deal.

u/theotherdanlynch · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You have a choice.

  • Option 1: USB WiFi adapter like this. Generally cheap and crappy, but you just plug it in to a USB port.
  • Option 2: PCIe WiFi adapter like this. Costs a little more, sucks less, and you have to install it inside your computer.
  • Option 3: An external WiFi bridge like this. Costs more, sucks a LOT less, you will need to buy an ethernet cable to go between the bridge and your computer.

u/francoisxr · 2 pointsr/Surface

I had exactly the same problem, SB 512Gb i7.

Router is Linksys WRT 1900 AC

Solved the problem by buying a cheap Edimax AC Wireless adapter (AC 600)
http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811UTC-Dual-Band-Connectivity-Exceeding/dp/B00FW6T36Y

Now my ping is back at 2-3 ms, with the default wifi adapter i had 1ms and spikes 200-300 ms while pinging my router.

I did a lot of research and could not find anything else that works, now I have to carry a dongle with my 3K$ laptop to play LOL....

u/mikochu · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I've got a handful of these and they work great in Raspbian and OpenELEC. However, there's a faster one from Edimax, but it's much bigger in size.

u/broccolihead · 2 pointsr/ipv6

You need 802.11ac on both the router and the laptop to get wireless speeds over 70MBPS. http://compnetworking.about.com/cs/wireless80211/a/aa80211standard.htm I just went through this same problem when I was upgraded to Blast 105. My wireless router could do the 5Ghz 802.11ac but my laptops couldn't connect at 5Ghz so I bought two tiny usb wifi adapters and now I can connect fine. http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FW6T36Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/kman420 · 2 pointsr/PleX

I use the edimax AC wireless. I get 60 mb/s download over wifi on speedtest.net, 80 mb/s connection.

u/SmileAsTheyDie · 2 pointsr/windows
u/arizona4005 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JBJ6VG8/

but i would totally advise you to get a pcie based one since they are more reliable from my experience

here, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y2DU3P8/ this is much more reliable

u/onastyinc · 2 pointsr/googlefiber

Three options.

the first/PCIe one is the cleanest as the device will live in the computer and make the desktop act like a laptop in respect to how wireless networks function.


  • wireless ac via PCIe
  • wireless ac via PCIe

    The second/USB one is pretty much the same but will have less performance due to antenna diversity and the USB interface.

  • Wireless ac via USB
  • Wireless ac via USB


    The third/router is probably the most ideal as it will allow the computer to continue using the onboard ethernet, and give you additional ports to plug other things into. It does have the complexity of having to switch the router into bridge/client mode, but that isn't very hard.

  • Router in bridge mode

    As of now the OnHub/GF equipment doesn't interop directly. They are separate business units, and operate independently. It's possible they will integrate in the future but as of now they are on distinct paths from each other.
u/lavagr0und · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Some general rules of thumb (you'll probably already know):

  • LAN > WiFi > Powerline
  • 2.4 ghz > 5 ghz, if big obstacles like walls are in the way, doesn't really matter if it's the same room

    Usually i would suggest following combo as it is Miracast compatible:
    https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B016RU3T6S/ &
    https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0197W86IE/

    But as this would be the double of your price tag, i'd advise this one: https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Archer-T4U-Wireless-One-Button/dp/B00JBJ6VG8

    It does a pretty good job at some clients of mine.

    Please try to avoid Powerline Adapters, as they could do more "harm" then good.

    Common Promblems:

  • They create a lot of noise in different frequencies, as they use between 2 and 68 Mhz for datatransmissions. Powercables are not shielded and that way you have a huge, radio jamming antenna.
  • In some countries your Powerline Solution can be shut down by authorities if it disrupts your neighbours radio and you have to pay for the whole fieldop find your noise creating device.
  • They have to be in the same powercircuit to function properly
  • Turning on any device in that circuit could crash the powerlan connections (took us weeks to find out that the vacuum cleaner was crashing a clients printer connection)
  • Speed is not really as "promised" or "advertised"
u/Crimson5 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

To be honest I had a hard time finding the perfect wireless adapter. No amount of specs would show the real world usuage of an adapter. I went through three before getting this one.

Netgear AC1200 Wi-Fi Adapter High Gain Dual Band USB 3.0 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00MRVJY1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bRWJAbGXH4XCA

It supports 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz. Has good range and data throughput. I would recommend it as the price has even gone down since I purchased it(I payed $95 after taxes, no shipping costs).

Never had an issue with it, never had to unplug and plug it back in. Great latency as all i ever did was play games using it. It even comes with a little dock and cable so you can place it on your desk if you like.

I would also encourage you to use an application like this:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.assia.sweetspots

You see when using a wireless adapter the data transfer rate can change with every inch you move your wifi adapter. This was a very critical thing for me to learn as I could get 120Mbps in one place but only 40Mbps two inches to the right.

So I used this app to find the perfect sweet spot and taped the dock in place. So I could always have the best possible wifi.

u/Raptor007 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Hah, sounds like we're working on similar projects! I'm almost done building a Phenom II X6 gaming system into a Mac Classic II shell. I don't have the pics up on a decent host yet, but my Facebook album should be publicly-visible.

Here are some parts that I found useful in my build:

u/phlatcappr · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

This: https://www.amazon.com/Griffin-2001-ADB-iMate-Universal-adapter/dp/B000067V8L

Or this: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=14290.0

Or look up how to use a Teensy and Soarer's Converter to make your own.

u/kentone · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

You will need the adb cable and a ADB-USB converter, can be made with a teensy or an arduino pro-micro, or you can buy one already mounted with a price between 30-90$. You can also take the adb conector apart and solder the promicro inside and use the hole to get the usb cable outside. Im gonna make a detailed guide with more details on few weeks, when my pro-micro arrives. If you can wait you can follow my steps. If you are not good with solder iron or compiling things (and have the money), then buy the commercial adapter https://www.amazon.com/Griffin-2001-ADB-iMate-Universal-adapter/dp/B000067V8L If you are interested on my guide I can send you a PM when I post it :)

u/sexual_chocolate_ · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I used an old ADB / USB adapter. It's a FANTASTIC board, and the one I got is in perfect condition with no yellowing or switch degradation.

http://www.amazon.com/Griffin-2001-ADB-iMate-Universal-adapter/dp/B000067V8L/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408631866&sr=8-1&keywords=adb+adapter

u/reijikyosuke · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

>might anyone know where I could get an adapter to USB?

You can buy the adapter online like Griffin iMate, but it's sold out. Or you can buy from hasu on geekhack (buy it pre-made or DIY )

u/that_jojo · 1 pointr/retrobattlestations

TMK works just fine as an inline adapter. You can build it however you want.

Otherwise, you're pretty much looking at this: https://www.amazon.com/Griffin-2001-ADB-iMate-Universal-adapter/dp/B000067V8L

u/TheSeanis · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Sure, this part is anecdotal so take this with a grain of salt as it has been many years: The plug type is actually very similar to PS2 or vga(or something like it, I'm sorry this almost sound useless) Either way, what I'm getting at is, the pinout configuration for Apple's ADB is essentially identical to another cable used in the other era and the male end will connect with a female-to-USB adapter of that kind. Radioshack had a thingy-to-USB adapter available in 2012 that plugged in and worked fine on my old apple mechanical keyboards. I'll try and rummage through the cable bin and see if I can't locate it.

Secondly, [this is the other adapter I got on amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067V8L/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

u/LocalAmazonBot · 1 pointr/linuxquestions

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: http://smile.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036H-802-11b-Wireless-network/dp/B002WCEWU8/ref=cm_cr_pr_pb_t


|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|
|UK|www.amazon.co.uk|Macmillan|
|Spain|www.amazon.es||
|France|www.amazon.fr||
|Germany|www.amazon.de||
|Japan|www.amazon.co.jp||
|Canada|www.amazon.ca||
|Italy|www.amazon.it||
|India|www.amazon.in||




To help donate money to charity, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

u/JayP146 · 1 pointr/technology

If you don't have one already, get an Alfa AWUS036H. Extreme range + support for Backtrack. :)

u/lightfork · 1 pointr/techsupport

If you can no way impact the other end, you will have to increase the signal capabilities of your side, so the only thing you can do is get a better adapter, and preferably one with an antenna.

If you got this one, it has a 1W amplification and a high gain antenna. If you don't care that much, you could get one with a lower gain antenna.

The nice thing about these is you can position it out of the way on a shelf or something where you find you get the most signal.

They do sell 2W amplified versions I believe, but this is not worth it and 1W is all you should go before it starts to introduce too much signal noise.

If you can upgrade everything, you could look into 802.11 ac because it has good range capabilities by nature.

u/nebbsen · 1 pointr/AskReddit

Ubuntu + ALFA AWUS036H Antenna + aircrack-ng

This should get you started gear-wise. Cracking WEP is a piece of cake - good luck with WPA(2)

u/euleausberlin · 1 pointr/technology

http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036H-802-11b-Wireless-network/dp/B002WCEWU8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381268379&sr=8-1&keywords=AWUS036H

Sry for amazon link, but these Alfa 1000mW Wifi "sticks" are really great for such a task. I've read the 2000mW ones suck btw.

u/FreelanceSocialist · 1 pointr/buildapc

Keep in mind that the power of your card or adapter only really helps when you are sending packets to an access point, not when it is sending to you (obviously). That said, I highly recommend products from Alfa, particularly the Alpha AWUS036H. It's a 1w external that is fantastic. We use these in our labs to reach AP's through reinforced concrete, steel, you name it. The AWUS036H is b/g. If you need 802.11n, get the AWUSO36NH - this is what I carry in my bag, along with my Thinkpad. If my built in wifi isn't up to the job, that one almost always is.

u/ltothe · 1 pointr/techsupport
u/ex247 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

> Zstick

Is this what you're referring to? http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSA02203-ZWUS-Z-Wave-Z-Stick/dp/B003MWQ30E

I am just getting started and I think thats what I need for my Pi to start connecting to zwave items... anything else you think the Pi needs?

u/nomar383 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Do you need a zwave stick? I have this one that I just replaced today: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MWQ30E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.CPnxbF8DKF5S

Looking for $22 shipped.

u/kitikitish · 1 pointr/homeautomation

https://github.com/openhab/openhab/wiki/Z-Wave-Binding

> There seems to be an issue with the binding running on the latest oracle VM Beta, on ARM based architectures (e.g. raspberry PI). It manifests itself as messages being received multiple times and causes considerable problems with the operation of the binding. In large networks, the queue can get extremely long, which can delay initialisation considerably and cause potentially long delays in sending messages. Some time has been spent investigating this issue and a solution has not been found - the issue doesn't appear to be with the binding itself as the problem doesn't manifest itself on an other platform. If anyone with the hardware and programming experience can help with this it would be useful.

That's just what this page says. You have a Z-Stick like this connected to an RPi and it's working fine?

u/13374L · 1 pointr/homeautomation

>My ideal solution would be a USB or other interfaced radio

Like this? http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSA02203-ZWUS-Z-Wave-Z-Stick/dp/B003MWQ30E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414026842&sr=8-1&keywords=z+stick

I've heard it doesn't work great with R-Pi, but you could probably find a similar platform it cooperates with.

u/adobeamd · 1 pointr/Hue

Do I have to get a lutron bridge? Or can I use the below stick and integrate with Ha?

Aeon Labs DSA02203-ZWUS Z-Wave Z-Stick Series 2 USB Dongle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MWQ30E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.FX8Bb8WBYEYJ

u/crickton · 1 pointr/homelab

I've been really pleased with HomeGenie so far. Recently purchased a home and wanted to replace the old thermostats with new 'smart' ones, but wanted to keep the control local and off the cloud. We live in a rural area and really didn't want to have to be tied to the internet to control our devices. Did some research and chose to go Z-Wave, pairing a RasPi2 with a Z-Wave USB dongle (http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSA02203-ZWUS-Z-Wave-Z-Stick/dp/B003MWQ30E). HomeGenie installed onto Raspbian (wheezy) incredibly easy and had no problems getting it up and running. I've been using this setup for about 2 months now and am happy with it. It's paired with all of my Z-Wave devices without issue.

A few things:

  • I found HomeGenie to have a slight learning curve, though there are nice examples and docs available.
  • Most of what I've done with HomeGenie use custom 'Programs' which allow you to write the logic in a few different languages (C#, JavaScript, a couple others). This is exactly what I wanted, but may not be for those that aren't used to programming.
u/yycdouchetruck · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Yep :) Should be good, all these USB sticks do is create a serial port which you point the OpenHAB Z-Wave binding to and OpenHAB runs anywhere a JVM runs!

Besides the UZB Z-Wave USB stick mentioned above, there are a few other models that are known to work with OpenHAB. eg. Z-Stick

u/eric_fri · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I have these bulbs and this z stick. I use home assistant as my hub. It's very flexible at what it can do, but with that flexibility comes complication and a learning curve. But I think it was well worth it.

I've got those bulbs in almost every light and lamp in my house, along with an Amazon Echo, a couple of motion sensors, and a lot of timing based automation. Look thorough the components home assistant supports for an idea of what you can do.

edit:
The bulbs I linked also come with little plastic bits to go over the switches so people don't turn them off accidentally.

u/mrbill · 1 pointr/homeautomation

The Aeon Labs one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MWQ30E

So far I've just been pairing stuff (door/window sensors) before I install them in the intended location, but I'm going to have to rig up a long USB power cord so I can get the Pi near the door before I can pair my ZWave deadbolt.

u/Cool-Beaner · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Are you looking for something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Network-Chromebook-Specific/dp/B00484IEJS/
or this:
http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Chromebook-Specific/dp/B003VSTDFG/

I am using IPFire for a router/firewall, and these work fine. I only get 30-40 Mb throughput on the Pi, So you really don't need to spend the extra money for the Gigabit adapter.

Edit: from Tiger Direct

u/thesynod · 1 pointr/buildapc

Try this Its advertised as gigabit, should be able to give you decent throughput.

u/iftachby · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Hi, I have a usb2 to ethernet adapter, exact model linked below.

I have been unable to get it to work with the Switch, but I don't know if it's supposed to work at all, if there is any workaround that will make it work, or if I need to buy a new adapter.

This it the adapter
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Chromebook/dp/B003VSTDFG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8


Any help would be very much appreciated!

u/intarwebzWINNAR · 1 pointr/techsupport

Just get another NIC card or a USB ethernet adapter.

http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Chromebook/dp/B003VSTDFG

http://www.newegg.com/Network-Interface-Cards/SubCategory/ID-27

Nothing crazy expensive. I'm still thinking it has something to do with the range extender, though.

Keep me updated, I'm curious to see how this turns out.

u/PeaInAPod · 1 pointr/chromeos

The company Plugables is my favorite as they make a point of ensuring their devices have solid driver support on/for OS X, Windows, and Linux. And the times I've had to email for support they have been abundantly helpful.

They sell a 10/100 USB to Ethernet adapter for $14 on Amazon

As well as a 10/100/1000 USB to Ethernet Adapter for $25

I have the Gigabit one and it works great with my Series 3. That said you'll never see Gigabit speeds with it being USB 2 but it gives it a bit of a bump over the 10/100 speed.

u/hakmeister · 1 pointr/computerhelp

If you've tried different cables, different ports on your router, disabling and reinstalling drivers, a reinstall, hell you could even try plugging it straight into your laptop to see if it at least detects the connection. If all that fails, you're best bet is that the ethernet controller is fried, which isn't Unlikely.

You have 2 options good sir, buy a USB network gigabit adaptor, or if you're technically advanced, buy a pcie- network adaptor.


Here is the usb adaptor:

http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B003VSTDFG/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1344537187&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+gigabit+ethernet+adapter

Here is the pci-e card:
http://www.amazon.com/Intel-Gigabit-Network-Adapter-EXPI9301CTBLK/dp/B001CY0P7G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1344537153&sr=8-1&keywords=pci+e+x1+gigabit

Their both Identical in the sense that they are gigabit.

u/istarian · 1 pointr/VintageApple

Research is good.

To quote the sustainable softworks page (as linked above):
> OEM Alternative (Gigabit Ethernet but limited by USB 2.0)
> Device: http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B003VSTDFG
> Driver: http://www.asix.com.tw/FrootAttach/driver/AX88178_Macintosh_10.4_to_10.7_Driver_v3.6.0_20111014.zip

I presume since the drivers they link to are for AX88178 that any hardware of a similar vintage and that same chip would probably work. That might not be true, but it does seem reasonable.

It appears that one design at least must have been common rebrand because (top two previously noted):
http://plugable.com/products/usb2-e1000/
https://www.sabrent.com/product/USB-G1000/usb-2-0-gigabit-101001000-ethernet-adapter-network/
https://www.startech.com/support/USB21000S

^ These all appear to be the same (or very similar) units with different brands

http://www.asix.com.tw/download.php
^ you can look get the chip makers drivers here, but for some reason it says
for AX88178 10.5 to 10.12 and for AX88178A 10.6 to 10.12
Supposedly they are for "For Apple x86/Power PC, 32-bit/64-bit platform"

StarTech appears to be providing the 1.3.2 version of the install guide whereas ASIX's site has the 3.10 version of the install guide. They each provide files, but I don't know what the respective driver version numbers are. My supposition is that the 10.4 to 10.7 driver on the sustainable softworks page must be somehow distinct from the 10.5-10.12/10.6-10.12 driver found elsewhere, but maybe it's the same driver? There is a 'history.txt' in the Mac folder of StarTech's driver download that appears to suggest that that driver is v3.6.0 just like the one linked at that other page.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Network-Adapter-StarTech-Accessory-USB21000S2-USB-2-0-to-Gigabit-Ethernet-/172797771920
http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-2-0-to-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter-USB21000S-from-Star-Tech-New-Sealed-/322624658741
^ the latter one here is a little pricey at almost $30, but it is NIB.

u/ImTheDoctah · 1 pointr/techsupport

No dice, nothing works. Do you think using an ethernet adapter instead of the port on my laptop might do the trick? Something like this.

u/liamfraser · 1 pointr/linux

This worked on my Arch Linux box as soon as I plugged it in.

u/tomisamac · 1 pointr/theNvidiaShield

On The Go USB Cable

because there is shared access to the charger and no native female-full-size-usb port one of these are required to plug a fullsize usb device or usb hub into the shield.

i use this specific one with a guitar hero usb and plug mouse and keyboard, wired ethernet, and razer sabertooth up to this with this cable.

it would have been nice for them to have included both the micro usb charger and a separate full size usb port or even a proprietary connector running to a usb hub, fullsize hdmi, and ethernet

u/fehmi1907 · 1 pointr/AndroidTV

I have tried USB to ethernet adapters on my Bravia 800D with no luck -

>Apple USB Ethernet Adapter
>
>https://www.apple.com/shop/product/MC704LL/A/apple-usb-ethernet-adapter
>
>Plugable USB 2.0 to 10/100 Fast Ethernet LAN Wired Network Adapter
>
>https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00484IEJS/
>
>Plugable USB 2.0 to 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet LAN Wired Network Adapter
>
>https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B003VSTDFG/

It would be great if we could compile a list of working vs non-working USB to ethernet adapters - unfortunately, I haven’t come across one that actually works on my Bravia.

u/Demons-With-Ryu · 1 pointr/theNvidiaShield

I assume you're referring to the K1 tablet. Yes, you can get an OTG cable that supports charging and connect it to a network adapter.


This two in combination work:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009YPYORM

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VSTDFG

u/2down1up · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

I'd go with an alfa card. Will work with linux out of the box and supports all 6 modes, including mater mode. It is high power and you can put any antenna you want on it.

https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NHA-Wireless-USB-Adaptor/dp/B004Y6MIXS/

u/HeidiH0 · 1 pointr/linuxquestions
u/nSain35 · 1 pointr/KaliLinux_Hacking

U can try any of these I used works fine can't remember if I ever sniffed 5ghz networks Alfa AWUS036NHA Wireless B/G/N USB Adaptor - 802.11n - 150 Mbps - 2.4 GHz - 5 dBi Antenna - Long Range - Atheros Chipset - Windows XP/Vista 64-Bit/128-Bit Windows 7 Compatible https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Y6MIXS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VWGDCb74FKS59

u/B0b_Howard · 1 pointr/Kalilinux

Is your wireless card the one your host (the laptop/Win10) is using to connect to the internet?

If it is, it will only show as a wired connection within the VM.

There is currently no way to assign the wireless card to a VM as wireless.

You will need to use an external wifi card attached to the VM. It's not a bad thing as most inbuilt wifi cards don't have the capabilities that a decent external wifi card will eg. Monitor mode, packet injection.

(Edit to add...)

Something like THIS is perfect.

u/TodayIsAGoodDayTo · 1 pointr/techsupport

No guarantee it would work well at that distance but a long range usb wifi adapter like one of these would be your best bet for wireless

u/fang0654 · 1 pointr/netsec

From some quick googling, it looks like it may or may not work. The adapter itself has had several iterations. Some chipsets work, some don't, and you can't tell what you have by the outside of the adapter.

The usual is to get something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NHA-Wireless-USB-Adaptor/dp/B004Y6MIXS

u/p5-f20w18k · 1 pointr/linuxquestions

I currently have [this] card lying around - do you think I would have any issues with it?(https://www.amazon.co.uk/ASUS-PCE-N15-Wireless-N300-Enternal-Antennas/dp/B0053GR2YI)

I dont really intend to use the Linux PC for heavy gaming anyway - just browsing and light programming.

u/Activehannes · 1 pointr/buildapc

ok. seems like i will buy the Xeon CPU

my build right now:

Cardreader

dvd drive

Wlan card

Case

i dont safed any money but i have a high salary. so i want to buy new stuff every mouth. next mouth a HDD and PSU, in may a SSD and CPU COOLER and in june a MOBO, CPU and RAM. i will install all this and in july i will buy a graphiccard.

im planing 900-1000 euros. i have spend 80 till now

This is my monitor right now. i love it and im planing to buy a second one anytime from additional money

u/Philliphobia · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/DoorKnob5001 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

From the looks of it, this PCI adapter can handle 300Mbps
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0053GR2YI/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_392jub1M8MRPR

And that is way faster than my 50Mbps! I haven't done much research, but seems like it should do the trick? Would there be too much latency on the wireless?

u/Rawr_Werewolf · 1 pointr/buildapc

Can recommend this for wireless, fairly decent speeds for wireless, and good for a budget build, just don't expect extreme speeds from it

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Asus-PCE-N15-Wireless-adapter-connection/dp/B0053GR2YI

However, if your using Windows 8, be warned that even if you follow the packaged installation instructions, Windows may still ignore the drivers installed by disc and revert to its default ones, which will cause bluescreens upon starting windows. Don't panic, let it fail and eventually (after 2-3 times) windows will ask you to troubleshoot, then you just boot into safe mode, then navigate to the device manager and reselect the driver it should be using

u/kxiao · 1 pointr/buildapc

If you have a PCIe slot or PCI slot open, I highly suggest you get an internal card.

ex. http://www.amazon.com/PCE-N15-performance-Wireless-N-Transmit-interface/dp/B0053GR2YI/
-I have this one in my old build

http://www.amazon.com/PCE-N10-Wireless-N-Network-Transmit-Interface/dp/B004XFYGNK/

u/Captainjim17 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Any USB WIFI Dongle is going to have stupidly bad ping times and lag, they're meant for checking emails and browsing web pages etc...

Get a PCIE WIFI Card: like this

u/beeper596 · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

Errr...here's a link to one with current rebate: Amazon

u/vim_all_day · 1 pointr/buildapc

I have a [Build Help] thread for this, but what the heck.

I've got my build completed (another post pending), but I'm looking for a wireless adapter to add. I found this wireless adapter, but I'm unsure how to install it into my mobo? There is nothing that small, as far as PCI-E slots, on it. Is this card simply incompatible?

Thanks for the help!

u/Karate_Fried_Chicken · 1 pointr/buildapc

Which wifi card should I buy? Any real difference?
Asus PCE-N15
Or TP-LINK TL-WN881ND

u/RainieDay · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

You can easily get one new online for your price range:

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN851ND-Wireless-Adapter-Low-profile/dp/B005NHIQ06/

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN751ND-Wireless-Adapter-Low-profile/dp/B005FUGPP4/

I actually have an extra 2-antenna PCI wifi card I can sell for cheap, but the problem is that the driver support stopped at Windows 7; the card still works but it uses default Windows drivers on Windows 8.

u/Papi_Tachanka · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace
u/malt2048 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I put one of those in a computer I built, different model though. I used a 150Mbps card, which uses only PCI-E 4x. Yes, it's a wifi receiver. This is the one shown in the picture.

I would think that it would have better reception, simply due to the difference in antenna size.

u/Silver_Foxxx · 1 pointr/computers

>What am I doing wrong here?

Nothing, assuming you've tried both 8X slots. Your motherboard's BIOS may not allow you to use a 1X PCI-E slotted card in an 8X slot. Gigabyte may have assumed that you were gonna place video cards in all of the PCI-E slots of that motherboard so its BIOS may not accommodate a wireless adapter in one of the 8X slots. I reread your post.

The second graphics card may keep the motherboard from detecting/operating the wireless adapter.

I'd switch to a PCI based wireless adapter and see if that helps. The PCI slot operates under a different subsystem than the PCI-E slots do, so installing a PCI card would have a greater chance of getting the card running without interference from PCI-E devices. I'd make sure there were device drivers for that card in whatever flavor of Windows you're running before I actually bought anything. I'd also update the BIOS to the last beta BIOS if I hadn't done that already.

u/life_b4_death · 1 pointr/buildapc

Here is a PCI wifi card. As for PSU build quality, have a look at Tom's Hardware PSU tier list here and get something no lower than tier 3. Something like this should be great. Hope that helps!

u/mnlx · 1 pointr/windowsxp

I'd get a conventional PCI 802.11n WiFi card with XP drivers (probably this one: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Adapter-300Mbps-TL-WN851ND/dp/B005NHIQ06). Dongles are going to suck because it's likely that your board has just USB 1.0, and then their range isn't usually that great.

u/LittleHelperRobot · 1 pointr/buildapc

Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NHIQ06?vs=1

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

u/gzunk · 1 pointr/buildapc

Your choice is either a USB Wifi dongle, or a PCI Wifi card like this.

[Edit]
If you've got a low profile bracket for your PCIE card you could try this adapter to plug it into one of the PCIE slots.

u/ShamelessDistraction · 1 pointr/buildapc

This one, the motherboard didn't say anything about not being PCI compatable, but I can't find a slot that fits it.

u/1point5volts · 1 pointr/buildapc

Oh I thought that's what you were looking for lol. Meaning they're not interchangeable. You could get a PCI wireless card instead of PCIe. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005NHIQ06?cache=73a9a25957f6b6f2130f04738ba06ec3&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1414943683&sr=8-7#ref=mp_s_a_1_7

u/Tylertooo · 1 pointr/buildapc

I've never used powerline adaptor, so I'm no help there. I have heard good things about it though. Sorry, but my brain is stuck in mini-itx mode. Since you're going atx, you'll have plenty of room for an adapter for a regular pci slot like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NHIQ06/ref=s9_acsd_newrz_hd_bw_bwfnj_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=WVXF7Z1BN71GVQ9NBNW0&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=dd09b0f1-e13d-5362-9dd9-11c17e837bd6&pf_rd_i=13983711 It just slides into a regular pci slot the same way a video card does.

u/BlindStark · 1 pointr/buildapc

Thanks so this one should work fine?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005NHIQ06?vs=1

u/mightyneek · 1 pointr/apple
u/e60deluxe · 1 pointr/techsupport

you need something like this

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00762YNMG/

desktops dont typically have wireless built in.

u/freakinbird · 1 pointr/poker

http://www.amazon.com/Panda-Ultra-Wireless-Adapter-150Mbps/dp/B00762YNMG

i bought one of these bad boys and it was fine. the thing is it often needs like multiple connections around to get it 100 percent. im fine with it now cause the other person living in my duplex got a router so there are two, distinct signals. if you are a 6max NL player, traffic is no problem and the players are REALLY soft

u/theredbaron1834 · 1 pointr/linuxquestions

I am not sure about "fully free", as they might grab firmware files, but for ones that don't need any trouble, and just work in linux kernel, stay away from Broadcom.

Atheros is pretty good. Check out here

Intel ones are good, but I can't find a cheap small one that is usb. I personally got a new pcie-mini one, and replaced a broadcom one in my laptop.

Ralink is pretty good too, here is a cheap one of those.


You can also check out Think Penguin. Not exactly cheap, but it is fully free I do believe.

u/dream_tiger · 1 pointr/linuxmint
u/weirdasianfaces · 1 pointr/techsupport

> logic board = motherboard

Yeah, I'm aware. This would be a logic board issue though... right? It says everything else works fine (LCD, ODD, battery is apparently good). That's the only issue. I would like to have the AirPort card working but yeah a USB adapter would work just fine too.

edit: damn they make these small: http://www.amazon.com/Panda-150Mbps-Wireless-N-2-4GHz-Adapter/dp/B00762YNMG/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1374699696&sr=1-1

u/d0ubl · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

That's strange. I have a cheap wireless adapter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00762YNMG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it works pretty well fore me.

u/chuby1tubby · 1 pointr/techsupport

Have you looked into getting a usb wifi adapter? There are some extremely small usb adapters for cheap though I'm not sure how fast they are in comparison to the normal integrated wireless adapter.

u/richalex2010 · 1 pointr/guns

This thing worked pretty well with a desktop I was running crunchbang on. I think I ran Windows 7 for a little while too, but I was mostly using it to play with linux.

u/apostulates · 1 pointr/hackintosh

That's apparently all it takes under 10.11 El Capitan, however the discussion here indicates that driver may not work under 10.12 Sierra.

Edit: According to the discussion thread here the TP-Link N300 Wireless Mini USB Adapter works under 10.12 Sierra with the drivers included in the thread.

u/p-ist-a · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

Here you go mate. Use unregistered Windows 10, until you can get a cheaper copy.

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor | £119.97 @ Laptops Direct
Motherboard | MSI B450-A PRO ATX AM4 Motherboard | £79.99 @ CCL Computers
Memory | Team T-FORCE VULCAN Z 8 GB (1 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | £30.18 @ Aria PC
Storage | TCSunBow X3 240 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | £24.39 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | £36.78 @ Aria PC
Video Card | XFX Radeon RX 580 8 GB GTS XXX ED Video Card | £159.00 @ Amazon UK
Case | Thermaltake Versa H22 ATX Mid Tower Case | £28.48 @ Amazon UK
Power Supply | Cooler Master MasterWatt 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | £53.09 @ CCL Computers
Monitor | AOC E2270SWHN 21.5" 1920x1080 60 Hz Monitor | £70.91 @ Box Limited
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | £602.79
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-07 10:27 BST+0100 |

Edit: USB WIFI dongle

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0088TKTY2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RRPsDb2EDQ0P2

u/AmyNicoleBurr · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I would really enjoy this seeing as I have slow internet and I absolutely adore gaming with my boyfriend (: Also. Elephant Barber :P Something about me. I'm working towards getting my GED so I can head into college. I wanna be a forensic specialist (:

u/JonzieK · 1 pointr/buildapc

There's not really much to say, anything £10 or under will suffice. I'd suggest looking at powerline adapters if your simply in another room and want a good connection.

Something like this will do fine

u/Gi0_v3 · 1 pointr/ItalyInformatica

Se sei neofita, lascia perdere. È semplice ma se non sai dove mettere le mani, ti consiglio questa: https://www.amazon.it/dp/B0088TKTY2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RD78Bb1BGH6K0

Altrimenti, potresti mandare una mail al venditore su Amazon e chiedere se possono montare per te una scheda di rete WiFi. (ovviamente pagando quel che costa la scheda, intorno ai 15-30€) rispetto alla chiavetta, la scheda di rete ti permette di avere una porta USB libera in più e la scomodità della chiavetta contro le gambe (se metti il pc sotto la scrivania).

u/k1aora_ · 1 pointr/buildapc

For the build I've planned to just buy a standard/cheap wifi tp-link adapter on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0088TKTY2/?tag=pcpapi-20

Would be new for me if that wouldn't work but lemme know

u/jxnesm8 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Using this while the Ethernet is down in the student uni halls. Sometimes drops out very hard, should I invest in another card / adapter? Powerline's aren't an option either.

u/Atanvarno94 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Yes, you have around two options (mostly)

  1. Internal WiFi cards like this one
  2. USB WiFi cards like this one
u/garnement · 1 pointr/france

Ta réception sera probablement meilleure avec une "vraie" carte comme sur ton lien, mais si t'as pas envie de te casser le cul ces petits machins-là fonctionnent très bien. Je connais des tas de gens qui utilisent ça sur leur PC fixe parce que la box est pas à portée de câble Ethernet (ou genre s'ils ont pas envie de faire un trou dans un mur, ou si le câble doit traverser un couloir et tout le monde se prendrait les pieds dedans, etc.).

u/stapo99 · 1 pointr/ireland

That's a nice build but to be honest I'd drop the ram down to 8 and use the money to get a SSD. I picked up this for the wireless. Works grand.

u/MrCooper2012 · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

This is a really great guide on how to get things going. You can use netflix, hulu, hbo go if you get PlayOn. I believe it is $19 a year or $39 for a lifetime pass. The site says $60 but I just checked and my prices are accurate. You can also set it up as a media server which is pretty cool too.

I've got a B+ on the way and this is what I'll be doing with it. I opted to get this keyboard instead of the Flirc, mostly because I can't see myself enjoying even a netflix search using my clunky tv remote. Also should be able to use a wireless adapter if an ethernet cable is not an option.

u/mackerz17 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

You can actually just get a USB WiFi adapter which works just as well as an internal card. This one is pretty decent but it depends on your WiFi connection.

u/Eric_slim · 1 pointr/hackintosh

Just save the effort and grab a wifi dongle that supported ...

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B0088TKTY2/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1525451612&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=tp+link+usb+wifi+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=310p-qdCPrL&ref=plSrch

You can download the drivers in windows and run them in the hack boom good to go that’s the one I use those driver also recognize my other cheap ac adapter but crashed during use you can try the driver there on the tplink website

u/ben7005 · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

No, you don't need a separate CPU cooler, the included stock cooler will work fine. However, it will provide a very tangible boost in CPU performance and longevity. I highly recommend it if you have the money to spare, and it's absolutely necessary if you want to overclock.

With that in mind, I don't think you should buy one for this build. It's probably worth it to spend more money on your GPU instead. Here's what I recommend:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 ATX AM3+ Motherboard | $109.99 @ NCIX US
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $77.98 @ OutletPC
Storage | PNY XLR8 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $109.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | XFX Radeon R9 280X 3GB Double Dissipation Video Card | $259.99 @ Newegg
Case | BitFenix Comrade ATX Mid Tower Case | $34.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | Corsair CX 430W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $44.99 @ Newegg
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $637.93
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-08-25 13:24 EDT-0400 |

+ this wifi adapter: http://amzn.com/B0088TKTY2

For a total of $653.93!

Breakdown:

  • The 990FX chipset provides great USB3 speeds, and will allow you to overclock if you get an aftermarket cooler later.

  • I prefer a single-channel 8GB stick to two dual-channel 4GB's, because, even though it's marginally slower, it depreciates MUCH more slowly, and allows for more future upgradibility.

  • The XLR8 is slightly cheaper than the 840 EVO you suggested, and about the same speed.

  • The 280X is a beast GPU. It should definitely be able to run CS:GO at 144fps.

  • The case is not the best, but it still looks great (IMO). Shouldn't give you any problems.

  • This PSU doesn't leave you much room to upgrade in the future. However, it is dirt cheap and semi-modular. Yay!

    Let me know if you have any questions!
u/drfrogsplat · 1 pointr/mac

Yep, something along the lines of this tiny one, or this bigger one (which would probably be more reliable at longer ranges).

u/DJDarren · 1 pointr/gadgets

If I've understood your requirements, this ought to do it - Asus USB-BT400 3Mbps USB Bluetooth v4.0 Mini Dongle https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00CM83SC0/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_RRs8tb1X0PSTP

u/Lukeaz1234 · 1 pointr/audio

Hey. I don't have a webcam to test unfortanuetly, however, my old headset did work perfectly. Moreover, the connection is via ethernet and the Surface Pro is on Wifi, on the same connection so I don't think it's my internet.I am only using Discord and then Skype for interviews. The problem persists on both platforms. I was told about upgrading my bluetooth dongule so I'll try that first and foremost. If that doesn't work I'll try and reinstall windows from scratch. Thanks for your help!
My bluetooth device is; https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B071R2M5Z1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=linustechtips-21


Would upgrading to say: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ASUS-USB-BT400-3Mbps-Bluetooth-Dongle/dp/B00CM83SC0/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2ZR5MDK0002D8&keywords=asus%20bt400&qid=1568763199&s=electronics&sprefix=asus%20bt%20,electronics,279&sr=1-1&tag=linustechtips-21


Prove any difference? This was recommended to me from a friend.

u/LosPenguiinos · 1 pointr/buildapc

You can just get something tiny like this if you don't need much out of it, or can go for something like this for a more solid and stronger connection.

u/HardFartVictory · 1 pointr/buildapc

It doesn’t. You can get a combined WiFi/BT card like this one, or a USB BT adapter like this one..

u/TheCakeBaker · 1 pointr/Tekken

You need a Bluetooth adapter like this one if you don't already have one.

If you already have one and cant get it to pair, try pairing in the Bluetooth devices menu (windows 10) and see if big picture mode or DS4 tool can recognize it (but don't use both at the same time).

u/titsmagumbo · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

Does this motherboard have Bluetooth built in or will I need a separate dongle like this https://www.amazon.com.au/ASUS-Bluetooth-Adapter-Integrated-USB-BT400/dp/B00CM83SC0 ?

u/iLoup · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

You can buy a USB adapter. I'm using this one for my PS4 controller.

Or you can use something like this which includes Wi-fi as well.

u/MrDankky · 1 pointr/buildapc

ASUS USB-BT400 3Mbps USB Bluetooth v4.0 Mini Dongle https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00CM83SC0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2fyMDbERYC2W9

u/superwank123 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

yeah i created 2 different profiles but when i enter the edit options on the bottom left it says https://gyazo.com/706a63743e4c465c10bd3c425c6f5344 when i put the profile to 1 profile number to also changes to 1 i have no idea what to do and the dongle i bought is this https://www.amazon.co.uk/ASUS-USB-BT400-Bluetooth-Backward-Compatible/dp/B00CM83SC0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483120735&sr=8-1&keywords=asus+bluetooth

u/sleepytrapp · 1 pointr/techsupport

Hmm, I could imagine that your mothervoard just isnt able to do bluetooth by itself. I'd reccomend a simple bluetooth 'dongle' or so. (Im usint this onr atm, and it's worked great since I got it https://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B00CM83SC0/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

u/WizardPipeGoat · 1 pointr/Mercadoreddit

Te cuento lo que hice yo:

Instalé la app en Windows 10 de XBox. Conecté el Joystick, y ahí me andaba mal. Con delay, perdía señal, etc. Googlé problemas y vi lo del dongle.

Ahí busque en google/reddit dongles recomendados para Joysticks de xbox y vi linkeados varios. Pedí uno de esos por amazon europa: https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B00CM83SC0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Busque el driver en la página de fabricante (no instalé el default que pone Windows).

Ahora me anda como si estuviese conectado con el cable.

Saludos!

u/Ubspy · 1 pointr/HowToHack
u/nhasian · 1 pointr/linuxquestions

unfortunately, it is not automatic. you have to download the source packages from tp-link via the link I provided and unzip it, then install the solus development group via the terminal command sudo eopkg it -c system.devel

once that is done you can follow the instructions within the tp-link source code to compile it. hopefully it will work for you. If you are unable to compile the drivers you can always pick up a $15 linux compatible usb adapter from amazon such as:

https://www.amazon.com/Panda-300Mbps-Wireless-USB-Adapter/dp/B00EQT0YK2

u/psyche77 · 1 pointr/Surface

Yeah, that's when I switched also. One of these would probably be your easiest solution.

u/Abhishreknado · 1 pointr/bangalore

Panda 300Mbps Wireless-N USB Adapter https://www.amazon.in/dp/B00EQT0YK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7vP4CbW7M6XZY

This is the one I bought.

u/Wundermaus · 1 pointr/linuxmint

Do you have a spare USB wireless adapter you could temporarily use to facilitate Internet access for the 17.x install? Seems odd that both your existing wireless and wire access do not work with Linux Mint 17.x drivers. Even with my (almost 10 year old) stock Acer Aspire 1 Netbook, I had internet access right away. In fact, every flavor of Linux (from Puppy to Open Suse) I tried worked with my hardware. You could purchase at a wireless adapter for under $15. https://www.amazon.com/Panda-300Mbps-Wireless-USB-Adapter/dp/B00EQT0YK2/ or borrow one from a friend. What is your PC hardware build profile?

u/DanTheMan74 · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

> That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.

I believe you ;)

> One thing I just came to realize, and I have no idea why I didn't see it before, but this PiDrive thing doesn't have an opening for the network cable, meaning I'd have to get a wireless dongle thing.

That's something I said as well in this reply:

>> On the other hand, the enclosure makes it a lot more difficult to connect other USB devices or an ethernet cable to the Pi.

The downside of the PiDrive enclosure, at least of the 6x6 inch one you've chosen, is that it doesn't expose any of the USB or ethernet ports directly to the outside. You have to insert the cable into the enclosure first and there's only one narrow opening for the power cable. You can see that in the official product overview video you linked to earlier (if you click on this link, it'll start at the relevant passage). I'm sure you can use that for a second cable, but after that it might be too narrow for more.

> I'd consider perhaps buying something as simple as a TP-Link TL-WN725N

I think the last point has already made this superfluous but I'll reply anyway.

Don't buy a nano adapter like that unless you put a device, if not directly next to the router, then at least in the same room. The wifi quality will probably be better than Raspberry Pi's own, but in many cases you can get extra stability and transfer bandwidth if you use a more substantial adapter. Yeah that may not look as impressive but I take better network performance over better optics any day.

I can suggest this page to you, it has a list of wifi products and how well they work with Linux in general. The link is filtered on USB only, but it has other lists too. Also, just in case you find this misleading, a "green" value means the adapter works well on Linux, not that it works out-of-the-box. Another important resource for this case is the Raspberry Pi list of verified peripherals USB wifi subpage.

Anyway, I did already mention some good chipsets for wifi adapters in the past (I mentioned that Ralink 3070, Atheros AR9271 and Realtek 8187 were the most common that worked well), but generally speaking you should buy hardware the other way around. Decide on a nice item, then research if it works on Linux and/or how complex it is to set up. If the results are good, great; if not, look for another product. Rinse and repeat until you've found one.

The biggest thing you'll have to learn if/when you become a Linux user yourself is that you've been incredibly spoiled in terms of driver support on Windows. On Linux that's a lot slower to come for your average consumer device/component and this often means you won't be able to buy the newest product. There's a high chance it won't work out-of-the-box and may even require some extra work of you.

If I had to choose myself, I'd either take the Panda PAU05 which is a bit bigger than its nano adapter version but still reasonably compact, or the Panda PAU09 if a stronger network quality is desired. The latter can either be directly attached to the USB port of the target device or the antenna placement can be freely chosen if the stand is used.

u/TuffActinTinactin · 1 pointr/linuxmint

Try one of these

https://www.amazon.com/Panda-300Mbps-Wireless-N-Adapter-button/dp/B00EQT0YK2

They also have a smaller more compact version if that matters.

Check the blue image for the updated list of supported OS's.

u/kraftvgs · 1 pointr/Kalilinux

I just picked up a Panda PAU05 to use with Kali in a virtual box via my Macbook Pro and it was totally painless to get running.

u/tight-lines · 1 pointr/tails

You'll need to buy an external wifi dongle - the internal MBP one doesnt work. I just ended up buying this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EQT0YK2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/PKGMan · 1 pointr/techsupport

Oh hadn't thought of that. I will have to shift it over to Ethernet after work to check.

I am using this adapter for wifi

u/BizmoeFunyuns · 1 pointr/buildapc

I have 100 MB/S internet speed but my computer only gets 10. I am using this 300 MB/S USB adapter

I have an Archer C7 Router and don't believe it is the fault of the router, because my phone gets 90 MB/S when connected to the same wifi.

How can I speed this up?

u/buzzmandt · 1 pointr/Ubuntu

This one has worked on every system and every linux distribution and or windows install I've ever put it on and it's fast too.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EQT0YK2

u/grandzooby · 1 pointr/linuxquestions

This one worked for me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EQT0YK2/

I didn't use it much so I can't say if it worked well.

It's possible you can get your wireless working. It looks like there might be a kernel patch, and possibly an issue of secure boot keeping the kernel from using the chip: https://askubuntu.com/questions/765584/is-it-possible-to-use-broadcom-bcm43142-wifi-in-ubuntu-16-04

u/NerfMePleaze · 1 pointr/Windows10

It is a desktop, custom built. I'll link to you the products to save you some time.

Motherboard
CPU
GPU
HHD
Power Supply
RAM (2 stick, 16GB total)
Wireless Adapter

u/Bearowolf · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Well the network name is Netgear-2.4-G, so I would guess so.

[This] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EQT0YK2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) is the wifi card I have, and it worked well enough at the last location I had it set up at. Strangely the bar strength doesn't seem to have changed.

u/CodeShaman · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

It was actually the wifi dongle: https://www.adafruit.com/products/1012

It's a piece of garbage. It drops connection every few minutes. It won't even work on my PC, ssh just keeps timing out.

Swapped it out with this one that I had laying around and it's working beautifully.

How insanely frustrating to deal with this all week thinking it was a fault on my part.

u/m1stertim · 1 pointr/techsupport

so I don't normally recommend off-brand stuff, but these have been working very well for my mom and grandma for months.

u/WorkTimeFun · 1 pointr/PleX

This is the one I have connected to my raspberry pi running rasplex.
detected oob, and works works without stuttering on everything ive tried (up to 720p)
http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811UTC-Dual-Band-Connectivity-Exceeding/dp/B00FW6T36Y/ref=pd_sim_147_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=4168aRZrQ7L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=16C2TYNANKHSYJTHBKFX

u/Hothabanero6 · 1 pointr/Surface

This does seem to be suffering from the same issue the Marvell chipset is having. The only thing I can say is I have used both the AC1200 and AC600 adapters with success.

u/KevinHawke · 1 pointr/techsupport

Ah, then that's what I've been doing. Different channels don't really seem to have an effect. I think I'll just be ordering another adapter instead.

Thanks for the help, though! I appreciate it.

u/DayneTreader · 1 pointr/buildapc

Phoneix PCI Express to Dual 20 Pin USB 3.0 PCI-e X1 to 2 ports 19pin USB3.0 Header Support Low Profile Bracket

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HTXMKH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_I6t2CbMDJC1PK

and

JSER Vertical Dual USB 3.0 A Type Female to Motherboard 20 Pin Box Header Slot Adapter PCBA

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015HKX1ZI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_A9t2CbM06BRXJ

and

Edimax EW-7811UTC AC600 Dual-Band USB Adapter, Mini Size Easy to Carry, Supports Both 11AC ( 5GHz Band ) and 11n ( 2.4GHz Band ) Wi-Fi Connectivity, Upgrades your PC / Laptop for Exceeding Streaming and Faster Download


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FW6T36Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J-t2Cb57W4VCN

u/preckie · 1 pointr/korea

Get a cat 5e or cat 6 ethernet cable. The wifi usb dongle is what you connect to each of the laptops. Like this. There are much cheaper options around Amazon.

u/Nimrodor · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/UncleBlob · 1 pointr/computers

Are you referring to USB adapters? What is your price point?
The Panda PAU06 has good reviews on Amazon and is cheaper than most dual band adapters of comparable quality. I personally own the Linksys WUSB6300 and the TP-Link Archer T4U, both are good and the Archer works really easily with Linux as well, if that's your thing.

u/iMakeBaadChoices · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

There are multiple sizes for different prices, are they all the same or should I go for the AC1200 one?

Also I think it works with Win10 but it doesn't say so in the title

u/Nivaisu · 1 pointr/buildapc

here you go, USB 3.0, you can fallback to 2.4ghz band if 5ghz signal strength is awful

u/rambojenkins · 1 pointr/techsupport

That laptop is known to have wifi issues, specifically with the card itself. I'd suggest trying out a ethernet cable, or purchase a cheap wireless-N USB to see if that fixes it.

If it does, then you can either continue using the USB device or purchase an internal wifi card to replace the old one. Generally wifi cards are easy to replace, and I'm sure there's a video guide for that laptop somewhere.

:edit: Just read the post again, if disabling the wifi card helps, then try removing the card from the laptop and see if that fixes the issue.

u/Dr_WLIN · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/Spitfire_Akagi · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I bought this one a little while ago and have been using it ever since. Been working fine. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JBJ6VG8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

However I would get a PCIe adapter if your motherboard has a spare slot. I had to go with USB because I don't have a PCIe x1 on my current build. However when I did have PCIe I used this one https://pcpartpicker.com/product/tTdqqs/gigabyte-wireless-network-card-gcwb867di

u/trobknight · 1 pointr/techsupport

So I had this very same issue.

EDIT: Reason why I ask is because the latest Creators update broke USB wifi adapter 5Ghz connections - it sound bizzarre but believe me... if you are using it look for a driver update for your model adapter from the manufacturer's website if they have one.

If they don't - i bought this one and it had a driver update
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JBJ6VG8/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1496803731&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=tp-link+usb+wireless+adapter


Best of luck!!

u/wolfpackunr · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I've really liked my [Netgear] (https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-AC1200-Wi-Fi-Adapter-A6210-100PAS/dp/B00MRVJY1G/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1484673616&sr=1-1&keywords=netgear+wifi+adapter) adapter when I used it for a while. It also supports beamforming so it could help a bit if your signal isn't the greatest.

u/Skatingraccoon · 1 pointr/answers

You might check out this Netgear USB adapter. Netgear is a consistently good network device manufacturer. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MRVJY1G/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_8oNiDb7ZX7YET

u/darthtomato · 1 pointr/buildapc

Yeah, I haven't seen many adapters above $40, but the few I've seen have good reviews. This has caught my eye. The only thing I'm worried about is whether or not it requires wifi to install as it would take a lot of effort for my to get one on 2.4 GHz.

u/Some1-Somewhere · 1 pointr/buildapc

You want/need an 802.11ac adapter that supports at least 2x2MIMO - look for something with two antennas. Generally going to be advertised as 867, 1200, or 1300Mb/s.

I'd probably get this, or if you absolutely want USB/save cash, this (but I suspect performance will be worse).

u/Razor512 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

While Ethernet is best, if you must go with wifi, then look for a good USB wifi adapter (minimum 2 stream 802.11ac (AC1200) )

(Please, if you can, try to do a direct Ethernet connection, it will offer you the best possible experience)

Under ideal conditions, 2 stream 802.11ac, tops out at about 500mbit/s on the 5GHz band, and around 250-270mbit/s on the 2.4GHz band, though if you are far from the access point (even if just 20 feet + a wall, can easily drop the throughput to around 100mbit/s)

The main problem that PCI based wifi adapters on desktop PC's have, is the antenna location. The antennas are usually on the back of the case, and thus half of the signal path is being blocked by the case which acts as an RF shield.

While you can improve the signal by getting some longer coax cable and moving the antennas to a better unobstructed location, but you then get signal loss.
With a USB wifi adapter (USB 3.0 preferred), you can place the adapter in a good location and not have any signal loss since the analog signal is made digital before you suffer any line losses. (PS USB 3 wifi adapters will restart them selves if you connect to a 2.4GHz network, as USB 3 signals heavily at 2.4GHz, and thus the adapter drops to USB 2 mode to avoid raising the noise floor for the wifi)

If you want one of the fastest USB 3 wifi adapters, then you are looking at the netgear A6210
http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-AC1200-Wi-Fi-Adapter-A6210-100PAS/dp/B00MRVJY1G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416840946&sr=8-1&keywords=netgear+a6210

PS keep in mind that with both wifi, and powerline, as the signal weakens, the latency will increase.

If you want the best possible wifi connection, then the only option, is to use 2 wifi routers as a wireless bridge.

This is a benchmark of my R6300V2 being used as a wireless bridge http://i.imgur.com/3zK7rq8.jpg
(pretty much tops out at pretty much 702.7mbit/s, and due to the high transmit power on both ends (2 routers each pushing close to 1000mw ) the range is extremely good, which is another benefit of wireless bridges, a normal client will typically have around 100-200mw transmit power, while a good router will pump out close to 1000mw, they also tend to have better antennas, and better receiver sensitivity (which is usually why a higher transmit power router can improve range even though the client has a low transmit power)

u/__zero_origin__ · 1 pointr/buildapc

I've used the usb based wifi adapter, so far it has performed well above my expectation.
This adapter is also compatible with Windows 10, which makes things smoother. As for performance, it maxes out my internet connection speed provided by my router even though the router is separated by multiple walls and a ceiling (I estimate to be about +5 meters away.)

NETGEAR AC1200 Wi-Fi USB Adapter High Gain Dual Band USB 3.0 (A6210-100PAS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MRVJY1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_4IM5xeVTtjEAI

Also remember, to use the AC feature provided, you must have a router that supports AC, mine doesn't =(

u/cantstandjello · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I bought this one.

NETGEAR AC1200 Wi-Fi USB Adapter High Gain Dual Band USB 3.0 (A6210-100PAS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MRVJY1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_J80yCbT47NSQR

u/terrehsquad · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

I have one of these if you could throw me an extra $5 for shipping.

u/Noooooooooooooooob · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/RobZilla10001 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

You can grab a PCI-E 1x wifi card like so, or you can get a USB dongle like so. I'm not endorsing either of these products, simply showing as examples.

u/PamBeeslysTits · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

Don't know why I didn't think of this before. Theoretically slower throughput than an internal card, but still should have enough to handle pretty much any modern wifi. I would recommend using the wire portion in addition to the stick to get it away from the pc a bit as USB3 and wifi can have interference. Should be fine if you plug the wire in and put the stick on your desk. Can def be more easily removed than an internal, then you can put it in a briefcase handcuffed to your best friends wrist when you don't need it.

u/starvinmarvinmartian · 1 pointr/buildapc

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-AC1200-Wi-Fi-Adapter-A6210-100PAS/dp/B00MRVJY1G

Give this one a shot. If you have BB around you can return rather easily if it doesn't work for you. You do need a USB v3.0 port for it.

u/FaisalKhatib · 1 pointr/buildapc

Not sure about cheap ones but these are some I've personally used

u/iamasnot · 1 pointr/HelpMeFind

I bought one of these high gain dual band usb adapters

u/bbqsauceasaurusrex · 1 pointr/computers

This is the list from the post. He bought the suggested parts.

Published on Jul 5, 2019

Gaming Benchmarks & Prices for this PC: https://youtu.be/L8hmFm_Z2NM Here is my step by step tutorial on how to build my $600 Spark V2 gaming PC! Links to parts, tools, and resources are below. How to install drivers on this PC: https://youtu.be/uDHeIx9CNxA How to install windows on this PC: https://youtu.be/AfC5ViBiRQM Social Media: INSTAGRAM: https://www.instagram.com/scattervolt DISCORD: https://scattervolt.com/discord TWITTER: https://twitter.com/MarcAranibar ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Parts List: Buy the CPU here: US: https://amzn.to/2RLpfGS UK: https://amzn.to/2IZGktR CA: https://amzn.to/2Xe48mu EU: https://amzn.to/2FINgcH Buy the CPU Cooler here: (optional) US: https://amzn.to/2NmbjVh UK: https://amzn.to/2YpAib8 CA: https://amzn.to/2LuP2BR EU: N/A Buy the MOTHERBOARD here: US: https://amzn.to/2Xa6VZb UK: https://amzn.to/2FJUYU1 CA: https://amzn.to/2NxkQJk (ATX version, cheaper) EU: https://amzn.to/2xjq00m Buy the RAM here: (different brand, same specs) US: https://amzn.to/2LzikiK UK: https://amzn.to/2IXjWkW CA: https://amzn.to/2JjrtJN (single stick, still 8GB) EU: https://amzn.to/2YjTgA8 (2800mhz, still fast though) Buy the GPU here: US: https://amzn.to/2ZXbCal (different model, cheaper) UK: https://amzn.to/2xmm3Z2 CA: https://amzn.to/2RLlVLI EU: https://amzn.to/2JgfXyG (different model, cheaper) Buy the SSD here: US: https://amzn.to/2Ls5ClV UK: https://amzn.to/2XftxY6 CA: https://amzn.to/2RQ59ve EU: https://amzn.to/2xlJstn Buy the PSU here: US: https://amzn.to/2XEqgWp UK: https://amzn.to/2xrGu6x CA: https://amzn.to/2XJW9gi EU: https://amzn.to/2XeVHlW Buy the CASE here: US: https://amzn.to/2XEwuWm UK: https://amzn.to/2xvOTpX CA: https://amzn.to/2NpVKMe EU: https://amzn.to/2IYym44 (Optional) RGB case fans: US: https://amzn.to/2XhH7z4 UK: https://amzn.to/2LsQmW9 CA: https://amzn.to/2XgfNMX EU: https://amzn.to/2J2T82u ---------------------------------------------------------------- PC Upgrades: If you have $25 More to Spend: (SSD Upgrade) US: https://amzn.to/2Nxsvaa UK: https://amzn.to/2Lzj8Ei CA: https://amzn.to/2RONZy6 EU: https://amzn.to/2LptJlc If you have $75 More to Spend: (CPU Upgrade) US: https://amzn.to/2XhOou4 UK: https://amzn.to/2FCNzpB CA: https://amzn.to/2XBPkxr EU: https://amzn.to/2XimLWs -------------------------------------------------------------------- PC Accessories/Building Tools: Handy Magnetic Screw Driver Kit: US: http://amzn.to/2Fdh03o UK: http://amzn.to/2FWsndf CA: http://amzn.to/2FROG3u DE: N/A Bios Speaker (for troubleshooting): US: http://amzn.to/2FokCi6 UK: http://amzn.to/2FokKOC CA: http://amzn.to/2oK2DsU DE: http://amzn.to/2FTLSmv USB Wifi Adapter: (For a wireless connection) US: https://amzn.to/2WsrqE3 UK: https://amzn.to/2JNrNDp CA: https://amzn.to/2M8FXk9 EU: https://amzn.to/2VVLEl8 PCI Card Wifi Adapter: (For a faster wireless connection) US: https://amzn.to/2XCtslr UK: https://amzn.to/2IYnnrw CA: https://amzn.to/2ZXccVz EU: https://amzn.to/2FHN65u Cat7 Ethernet Cable: (For a wired connection, fastest, plug into router) US: https://amzn.to/2W9dShq UK: https://amzn.to/2MfphaM CA: https://amzn.to/2W4XNt0 EU: https://amzn.to/2JK1DkP Windows 10 Home: US: https://amzn.to/2EByu7c UK: https://amzn.to/2HEIIWj CA: https://amzn.to/2YRlbqJ EU: https://amzn.to/2YRIxgc *Here's how to install Windows 10 for free on your own USB drive: https://youtu.be/AfC5ViBiRQM

u/BostonRockOn · 1 pointr/buildapc

Built looks good, although is you don't mind spending an extra $15 I would go with the TP Links AC600 for the wifi adapter. This one has a very strong signal and is dual channel, so if your router gives a 5ghz signal you can connect to that and it should be much faster. I bought this 2 weeks ago and it has been working well.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Adapter-Archer-T2UH/dp/B00UZRVY12/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1485831701&sr=1-1&keywords=tp+link+ac600

u/whalespotterhdd · 1 pointr/linuxquestions

Yes, but that nano can't do packet sniffing/monitor mode.

If you want a real Kali powerhouse, try a TP-LINK TNxxx with an atheros chipset

This

or This

depending on your budget, and you'll have some great fun with ettercap and all that stuff

u/cfl1 · 1 pointr/Overwatch

No idea whether it's built in, but a USB adapter like this

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Wireless-Adapter-Archer-T2UH/dp/B00UZRVY12/

is generally better due to the ability to reposition it a bit.

The long-run solution is running ethernet or setting up MoCA or the satellite equivalent, but that's more expensive.

u/Aviyara · 1 pointr/buildapc

What router do you have? If it's the one given by Google, you'll get best speeds using an 802.11ac wireless card. [This is the closest I could find] (https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Wireless-Adapter-Archer-T2UH/dp/B00UZRVY12/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1467728527&sr=1-7&refinements=p_36%3A1500-3500) that was near $20 and also from a good company.

EDIT: [I also found this, but it doesn't have an antenna, which might mean reception trouble.] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LCACS0C)

u/millo31 · 1 pointr/tails
  1. Desktop 2. Yes, this one
    3. Yes 4. Yes, starting tails normally.

    I should also note that I tried using the rfkill list command in root terminal, and nothing comes up.
u/CapitanMcGregor · 1 pointr/debian

Yes something like the TP-Link AC600, for example...
TP-Link AC600 High Gain Dual Band USB Wireless WiFi network Adapter for PC and Laptops (Archer T2UH) https://www.amazon.com.mx/dp/B00UZRVY12/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kvImDb5BWJ1AK

u/mo891 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Thanks for the feedback https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-T2UH-Dual-Band-Compatible/dp/B00UZRVY12 this is the one I have and it lags there are only about 2 walls I between my pc and the router so idk what to do about positioning?

u/shankinstuff · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

Would you recommend the 4800 for a computer on a shared network with a bunch of others (2.8 and 5ghz) and a signal that needs to go through 2 (albeit thin) walls? Looking to get this for myself but debating between it and a cheaper TP Link USB wireless adapter (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Archer-T2UH-Wireless-Supports/dp/B00UZRVY12/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456960207&sr=8-1&keywords=TP-LINK+Archer+T2UH+AC600)

u/themidnightson · 1 pointr/buildapc

I really need some help here fellas. So I bought this adapter here for my brand new PC and I have had some really annoying things happening. I have tried every piece of troubleshooting I could find on the internet and the problems are just not going away. My PC is 10 feet away from the router and neither my phone or my crappy Toshiba Satellite from 5 years ago have any problems connecting to the internet. I am however running Windows 10, which I think is probably the root cause of all this frustration. So here are the problems I'm having:

  • DNS Probe Error in Chrome, saying it couldn't find the internet. This is with a full signal strength connection to my home network.

  • I get a prompt from Windows saying it cannot connect to my home network, even though again it has full signal strength. After putting in my password, it says connecting for a few minutes, then I get the error message.

    Now these are the things I've done to try and fix these problems:

  • Update/Reinstall Network Adapter Drivers

  • Different USB ports

  • Turned off power setting that enables Windows to turn off the network adapter to save power

    I'm really hoping someone can help me out because this is just such a bummer. This is my first PC and everything with the build went relatively smoothly asides from this fiasco. A few other things of note:

  • If I get the DNS Probe Error in Chrome and restart my computer, I get the "Can't connect to Network" issue.

  • I can resolve the "Can't connect to Network" issue by restarting my router, but then I still get the DNS Probe Error. If I reinstall drivers and restart, the same sequence of events take place: DNS Probe Error > Restart > Can't Connect to Network.

    Thanks in advance guys.
u/JuanPabloEstaBien · 1 pointr/buildapc

TP-Link AC600 High Gain Dual Band USB Wireless WiFi network Adapter for PC and Laptops (Archer T2UH) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UZRVY12/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Xio9mA3UsB5u7

If you’re just looking to plug into usb and play away I’ve used this one for over a year no issues and matches my white look.

u/Zendrixen · 1 pointr/techsupport

Sadly you can´t find those where I live in, only through the internet can you buy one.

However, I found this one. It is available in physical stores not very far from me. I guess this one is what I look for?

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-T2UH-Dual-Band-Compatible/dp/B00UZRVY12/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=TP-LINK+AC600&qid=1555690522&s=electronics&sr=1-1

u/Metalheadzaid · 1 pointr/buildapc

Usually my go to option if none other exists. Last I looked (don't use wifi anymore on PCs - google wifi is good shit) these did a good job:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-T2UH-Dual-Band-Compatible/dp/B00UZRVY12/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1527396809&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=tp+link+wifi+adapter&psc=1

u/JBGNY89 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Thank you for this. This saved me a good amount of $!

I'll perhaps looking into a longer ethernet cable as suggested.

Could you provide advice on something like this High Gain Wireless Dual Band USB Adapter would be of any help if plugged into my laptop?

u/AlwaysAboveAll · 1 pointr/buildapc

EVGA 500W Non Modular PSU $36

Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 G1 $409.99

MSI Z170A-Pro $107

Vengeance LPX 8GB DDR4 DRAM 2400MHz $45

i5 6600K $235.99

TP-Link AC600 Wireless High Gain Dual Band USB Adapter $24.99

Thats a total of: $859. That still leaves you with some room for your case and a hard drive or a solid state drive. If you have Prime, you'll get everything in two days for free (Student Prime, Trial). Dont forget the CPU FAN! Coolmaster has the 212 for $27 or so!

EDIT: I had posted it as a comment to your post again instead of as a comment to you reply, but I fixed it hopefully before people saw it!

u/IUsedToBeACave · 1 pointr/hacking
u/cr0ft · 1 pointr/AskTechnology

Pretty bare-bones answer, but otherwise sounds like decent advice.

https://www.alfa.com.tw/products_show.php?pc=137&ps=225

"Alfa with a 9db gain antenna" would be something like these two products combined:

https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Wireless-External/dp/B00VEEBOPG

https://www.amazon.com/Antenna-World-Wireless-Adapters-Routers/dp/B00NQGVSM4

The quality of the wireless access point / router also factors in. If you have some cheap crap there, that can also be improved on.

Beyond just larger antennas, you can also go with directional antennas to "shoot" wifi at a specific point. There are various options all the way to some pretty "extreme" directional ones that give 24 dB amplification but in a very narrow "pencil beam" you have to aim very carefully indeed that's probably overkill here, but including the example anyway; there are less extreme directional panel antennas and the like also:

https://www.amazon.com/24dBi-Directional-Booster-Parabolic-Antenna/dp/B00NQGVMSE/

But mounting something like the above on the outside wall of the home office building and pointing at the house and aiming where the wireless router is would get the job done if nothing else will.

u/ummmbacon · 1 pointr/AskNetsec

Have you verified your broadcom chipset is packet injection/monitor mode capable?

I ended up picking up an Alfa this one for ~$45 dual band as well runs faster than my wifi on my mac. With another card I can continue to do things online & capture/do whatever on the Alfa at the same time.

u/DanHalen_phd · 1 pointr/hacking

Aircrack is safe but you will need a wifi card capable of packet injection. In Aircrack, you can isolate a single wireless network and send deauth packets. Which de-authenticates devices which are connected to that WiFi network. Essentially, they are disconnected. You can deauth for a short amount of time or let it run indefinitely.

Alfa makes some pretty good wireless cards.

https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Wireless-External/dp/B00VEEBOPG/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2U5GVB6F1JKU9&keywords=alfa+wireless+adapter&qid=1556828344&s=gateway&sprefix=alfa+wire%2Caps%2C185&sr=8-3

u/Z0rDof614 · 1 pointr/linux4noobs

Alfa Long-Range Dual-Band AC1200
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VEEBOPG/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_vR8OBbQ4FQYPE

Works in monitor mode too.

u/AnthropicMachine · 1 pointr/hacking
u/pompouspoopoo · 1 pointr/wifi

Step 1: Get this (or something similar):

https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Wireless-External/dp/B00VEEBOPG/ref=pd_sbs_147_t_0/136-2705769-8042210?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00VEEBOPG&pd_rd_r=5d6fe997-2011-44da-89ef-9cd8d8b333f7&pd_rd_w=8t2q7&pd_rd_wg=hSGDO&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=5QCM0YQK5SA3E2DWH9NR&psc=1&refRID=5QCM0YQK5SA3E2DWH9NR

Step 2: Connect the antenna to a computer, install the drivers, and then use the new wifi antenna to connect to your apartment's network.

Step 3: Download and install a wifi hotspot software (see below) on the computer which will allow you to share the connection from the stronger wifi antenna with your other gadgets (e.g. ps4).

https://www.howtogeek.com/214080/how-to-turn-your-windows-pc-into-a-wi-fi-hotspot/

u/rollotomassi73 · 1 pointr/wireless

I use one of these and am able to get wifi from across the street from starbucks with at least 3 bars when I am working on the road and need to use my laptop. I've used other extenders but this one seems to be the best especially if they are using a 5ghz AC wireless router.

https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Wireless-External/dp/B00VEEBOPG/ref=pd_sim_147_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00VEEBOPG&pd_rd_r=4FN6YFJ0VHKTTB8HW1XX&pd_rd_w=BYSKr&pd_rd_wg=28XDM&psc=1&refRID=4FN6YFJ0VHKTTB8HW1XX

u/yestaes · 1 pointr/archlinux

I have this one
https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Wireless-External/dp/B00VEEBOPG

You have to compile the driver in order to use it.

u/alekthefirst · 1 pointr/techsupport

The linksys ac1200 wusb6300 is a good choice if a traditional form usb wifi adapter is what you're going for, or for even more performance, at double the cost, the netgear nighthawk ac1900 is an even better choice that should have slightly better range due to a somewhat adjustable antennae. The netgear model is also among amazons top selling wifi adapters which coupled with that price tag indicates that it is a very good purchase.

If you dont mind a cable and an external dongle that has to be somewhere then this thing with a very long name is both popular on amazon and among online reviewers.

Im assuming you live in the US of course and im not entierly familiar with that market as im european

u/Foxum · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Depends, that doesn't look like it has great antenna so if router is below you may be fine. You would have better luck with something such as https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IRASRJ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which offers high gain to be able to capture signal through walls and minimize any lag as possible. and cheaper choice would be https://www.amazon.com/Glam-Hobby-802-11ac-Wireless-10-6-10-11-5/dp/B018TX8IDA/ref=sr_1_8?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1474605373&sr=1-8&keywords=Dual+Antenna+wifi+adapter

u/dzlux · 1 pointr/buildapc

> In my view, the only reason you would get a USB wifi is as a temporary solution while you wait for .......

You list antenna and performance being worse for USB... which makes it look like you are not aware of options out there.

If you want cheap with a standard omni antenna (replaceable), you can get an 11ac dongle like the ac600 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018TX8IDA/

For a workhorse capable of long range connections, driver versatility, and well establish reputation, the Alfa AWUS models are at the top. The Alfa AWUS036NH is a well supported old workhorse of many packet capture analysts and hackers, though the AWUS036ACH is the latest with modern speeds.

There is no wrong path here.

u/JrHpC · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I just picked this up, I'm assuming it should do the job for light web browsing/YouTube? Possibly some old school runescape lol. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018TX8IDA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_HrqzzbPMK5TPK

u/plexguy · 1 pointr/techsupport

I have had very good luck with the generic wifi to usb ones when they go on sale for under $10. I travel for work a lot and always carry an extra to use if the hotel wifi is weak.

Here are a bunch of them available at NewEgg

https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=usb+wifi+adapter&ignorear=0&N=-1&isNodeId=1

The $12 Corn Electronic one looks like some that I have had good luck with. You can also buy different antennas to boost the signal, changing the ones to potentially boost the signal.

Here is one for $13 on Amazon with over 2,000 reviews
https://www.amazon.com/OURLINK-600Mbps-802-11ac-Wireless-10-9-10-13/dp/B018TX8IDA/ref=pd_day0_hl_147_2/137-1755556-7136352?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B018TX8IDA&pd_rd_r=a7ae4928-33f2-11e9-85c8-8db3782fc9c9&pd_rd_w=gZWWQ&pd_rd_wg=GHUzn&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=PZQVTAEE7GQEEWTW8YSP&psc=1&refRID=PZQVTAEE7GQEEWTW8YSP

For an internal just add dual band and it might limit your search a little.
Here is what I found on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Delectronics&field-keywords=PCI-E+dual+band+wireless

u/Gordito_tv · 1 pointr/buildapc

I got this. PCI-E cards are usually the recommended route but I got this because I ran out of PCI-E power cords (greedy 980ti). Also, USB dongle's have gotten a lot better recently. Works surprisingly well and will be handy to have around when I move over to an ethernet connection.

u/WhosFamousNotMe · 1 pointr/computers

Actually, if you want to get wifi for your PC, you don't need to buy a new motherboard. There are wifi cards you can buy, like [this one](https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Express-Adapter-TL-WDN4800/dp/B007GMPZ0A (which plugs directly into your motherboard) (which plugs directly into your motherboard) or this one (which you plug into a usb port in the front/back of your computer).

But yes, the motherboard generally doesn't get upgraded on its own too often.

Here's the thing though, different generations and brands of CPU use different motherboard sockets, meaning that if you were to buy a new Intel CPU, it wouldn't be compatible with your current motherboard. You'd have to buy a new motherboard that is compatible with the series/generation of the CPU you're buying.

The power supply doesn't really need to be upgraded unless you need the extra wattage or you currently have a lower-quality power supply. A higher-quality PSU should last several years.

You're right about the ram - it doesn't usually get upgraded unless you need more. However, with Intel's skylake chips that came out a year or two ago, DDR4 ram became the new standard. It's not cross-compatible with DDR3, the previous standard; as a result of that, when you buy a new CPU and motherboard (if it's Skylake or newer), you'll also have to buy all new DDR4 ram as well, as you won't be able to use DDR3.

Depending on usage case, I'd say the most often upgraded part is the GPU.

u/beastskitta · 1 pointr/techsupport

Amazon has some cheap 5gHz adapters EXAMPLE

u/slam_bike · 1 pointr/buildapc

I want to get a cheap usb Wi-Fi adapter to use while on vacation so I don't have to run an Ethernet cable through my relative's house. I'm looking for sub $20 on amazon. Would any of these support light multiplayer gaming? I'm showing my family VR games. Cheaper is better because this is probably the only time I'll use it.

OURLINK for $20

TP Link for $10

Wise Tiger for $13

u/Gottaminit · 1 pointr/24hoursupport

buy a repeater for wireless

-how far away is the router/modem from your pc you want to connect, somtimes just moving the modem and thus the wifi signal will make it work.

I would move it closer/close as possible to the area your trying to cover-then make sure it is in the open. Not in a cbinet or between something. You can use the wifi tool to see the changes.

The wifi receiver on your end (PC)should also be in the open-not stuffed up against a wall.

The 5ghz channel would probably solve the issue-as thats what it does -more power. The adapter you have for the PC may not be dual channel. You can get a cheap adapter like this that does for under 20.

https://www.amazon.com/OURLINK-600Mbps-802-11ac-Wireless-10-6-10-12-4/dp/B018TX8IDA/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=H7NT6YNNA9XWZD3TNNZN

are you sure the 5ghz channel is on in the AIO?

Your phone (if moderately new) should be able to see the 5ghz channel if it is broadcasting-if the pc does not have the ability

u/SheeBang_UniCron · 1 pointr/buildapc

There should be tons of options out there. The main thing to look for is “AC” wifi standard (I assume your router supports AC or AX if it’s a newer model) and the bigger the antennae the better.

This was recommended to me last time. I didn’t get it because I opted for a mesh network instead but it looks really capable.

u/StuckInBronze · 1 pointr/buildapc

You need a wifi adapter something like this.

u/unfunnydick · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

Count me among the few here that have been disappointed in this wireless adapter. It would overheat after half an hour of downloading games from Steam. Chucked it and picked up this clumsy looking Glamhobby usb adapter instead. It ran for a day downloading several hundred gigs of data without conking out, but it works better plugged in the back of your pc out of sight.

u/UNCfan07 · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

This has WiFi AC and dual 2.4ghz/5ghz for $13


OURLINK 600Mbps mini 802.11ac Dual Band 2.4GHz/5GHz Wireless Network Adapter USB WI-FI Dongle Adapter with 5dBi Antenna Support WIN VISTA,WIN 7,WIN 8.1, WIN 10,MAC OS X 10.9-10.13 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018TX8IDA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xiQOCb9HYCQ78

u/CatsGoBark · 1 pointr/buildapc

A cheapish USB one definitely wont get speeds like a dedicated ethernet cable but in my experience it's good enough. Where you are relative to your wifi source will make a difference as well.

I use this one and am pretty far from my router. On wire I can get up to 120-140 mbps and on this wifi adapter I can get up to 80.

u/moparcon · 1 pointr/buildapc

Hey,

I'm wondering what is a good wifi adapter to buy for my computer. I've recently purchased two separate wifi adapters in an attempt to match the speeds my phone [nexus 6p] gets on the wifi in my apartment.

My phone gets 150mbps, while both of the adapters I've bought struggle to hit even 50mbps. I bought this adapter as well as [this]
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018TX8IDA) adapter. I figured the first one didn't match the speeds because it didn't use 802.11ac, however upon getting the second one it also has terrible speeds.

Tethering my phone to my computer [and disabling mobile data] gets the same speeds on my computer as on the phone, so I don't think it is a problem with my computer specifically but I'm not sure.

Thanks

edit: on all adapters and phone I've been connecting to a 5G access point that is relatively distant away, a floor up of my room.

u/WoodenDarkFridge · 1 pointr/techsupport

it is a wireless connection through this adapter, but i'm only a few feet away from it. Do any of these options help?

u/spicedpumpkins · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

2 options

Budget

-----

Better but more expensive

-----
Personally I would suggest trying BUDGET antenna I listed first and if does not meet your needs, then try the more expensive one. Most people do well with just the budget adapter (read the reviews)

u/tacotuxedo · 1 pointr/wow

> Does he have to do the firmware update, or can I do it from down here in the basement?

Honestly it's about a thousand times more likely that your wireless connection is just dropping packets until it disconnects. The new router probably doesn't have the signal strength of the last one.

You can check the firmware yourself by entering the router's LAN address into your browser. The defaults are usually HTTPS://192.168.0.1, or HTTPS://192.168.1.1. If those don't work, google it by the router's name.

What you're most likely going to end up doing is accommodating for the mixup in signal quality by picking something like this up for a laptop

https://www.amazon.com/ANEWKODI-600Mbps-150Mbps-433Mbps-Wireless/dp/B01G8IPLD8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1510694898&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ASUS+network+card&psc=1

Or if you have a desktop and you're in more of a luxurious situation you could go for something like this

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510694898&sr=8-3&keywords=ASUS+network+card&dpID=41HWRQcV0BL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

u/Sovano · 1 pointr/buildapc

It seems you're very confused by what everyone is trying to tellyou so I'll try to break it down for you.

Your computer can connect to the internet either through a wired connection or wireless connection (also known as Wi-Fi).

Wired Connection

For a wired connect you need three things

    1. A modem (the box that provides allows you to have internet)

    1. Computer with an Ethernet/LAN (Local Area Network) port.
      An Ethernet/LAN port looks like [this] (https://dailykermit.files.wordpress.com/2009/09/pcback.png?w=700)

    1. An Ethernet cable (this is the wired connection). An Ethernet cable looks like this

      What you do is plug the Ethernet cable into both the modem and your computer into the Ethernet/LAN ports. The Ethernet cable passes the internet connection from the modem to your computer.

      Wireless Connection
      There are multiple ways of connecting wirelessly to the internet, but in your case you need primarily two things:

    1. A router. This is different from a modem. A modem allows you to connect to the internet through a wired connection. A router allows you to the internet without a wired connection. With that being said there are modems which are also routers (so they are two devices in one).

      Because you don't have a wired connection to pass the internet on to your computer, you need something else so your computer can connect to your router. There are several methods of connecting to the internet but I'll cover the two most common ones for desktops.

    1. PCI-E network adapter. Here's an example of [one] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007GMPZ0A/?tag=pcpapi-20)
    1. USB network adapter. Here's an example of [one] (https://www.amazon.com/ANEWKODI-600Mbps-150Mbps-433Mbps-Wireless/dp/B01G8IPLD8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1498950306&sr=8-4&keywords=usb%2Bwireless&th=1)

      If you install one of these on your computer, they will act as the internet receiver. What does this mean? Your router (which is the source of your internet) can connect to the internet receiver, which would give you a wireless internet connection.

      Whether you want to connect to the internet through a wired or wireless connection is completely up to you (however most will suggest a wired connection because this is the most reliable type of connection).

      Note: The links I provided were for educational purposes only and are not necessarily recommendations, however I picked them from the best-sellers list in Amazon for their categories so they aren't necessarily bad either.
u/skidkoala · 1 pointr/buildapc

Personally I would get this. It's smaller, plugs into USB, cheaper and great for gaming.

u/Kristic74 · 1 pointr/techsupport

Excuse me, my Wifi adapter is USB, like this one here. When I plug it into one port, that is an additional 3 feet from the router, I'll get download speeds around 80Mbps. When I plug it into various ports on the back of my computer, I get 20-40Mbps.

u/ChairmanKow · 1 pointr/buildapc

Yeah dude here. I have one of these on one of my older computers at work and has pretty good speeds. El Cheapo Amazon link

u/onliandone · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

pc-kombo shared list

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 1600 | $189.00 @ Amazon.com
Motherboard | ASRock AB350M Pro4 | $74.99 @ newegg
Memory | G.Skill Aegis DDR4 DDR4-3000 8GB (8 GB) | $87.99 @ newegg
Storage | WD Blue WD10EZEX (1 TB) | $44.09 @ superbiiz
SSD | SanDisk Plus 240GB TLC (240 GB) | $63.99 @ newegg
Video Card | ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1060 AMP! Edition | $359.99 @ newegg
Case | RAIJINTEK Arcadia Midi-Tower - white | $24.99 @ superbiiz
Power Supply | Seasonic S12II (520 W) | $44.99 @ newegg
Operating System | WIN10 64 HOME EN - Windows 10 Home, 64 Bit, englisch (COEM) | $92.99 @ Amazon.com
| Total | $990.01
| Generated by pc-kombo 17.03.2018 |

You can overclock this PC, but you don't have to. The GTX 1060 with 6GB ram will allow you to play current games with good settings. 8Gb ram might eb a bit low, add a second 8GB stick in that case later, but I did not succeed in making 16GB fit into budget without reducing the other parts too much. There is a $20 rebate coupon on the cpu, the remaining $30 are enough for Wifi, you can e.g. get https://www.amazon.com/ANEWKODI-600Mbps-150Mbps-433Mbps-Wireless/dp/B01G8IPLD8/ / late on you should move to ethernet though, for your multiplayer games.

u/mmtree · 1 pointr/buildapc

Powerline is useless, I don't know why people suggested it. Also, what is your actual speed on speedtest, ie what are you paying the internet company for. When these devices say "300mbps" or what have you, that's not necessarily your internet speed as much as your network speed(From computer A to computer B, how fast can I transfer?). Most newer routers these days can handle gigabit internet (1000mbps from the modem to your computer via ethernet cable), now that doesn't mean it will allow the devices to utilize that on wifi appropriately--hence these newer routers. my router is rated for 5334 Mbps but this is really theoretical and only applies to LAN transfers.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1750-Smart-Router/dp/B00R2AZLD2/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506524032&sr=1-3&keywords=netgear+router

my brother picked up this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G8IPLD8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and he says it's outstanding (gamer, router is located on the complete opposite side of the house and he has no issues). My performance on devices drastically changed when I upgraded my router(asus rt5300, overkill but my god is it glorious)

u/greg_0ry · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Nothin! Just plugged the adapter in, chose my network to connect to and I was on the internet right away. Here's the link where I got it from if interested: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G8IPLD8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/dankestofmemes · 1 pointr/buildapc

I already have the TP link one and am very dissatisfied with it, although I have not tried using a USB extension cable. The PCI one is too expensive for me but I did find this one that fits my criteria. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G8IPLD8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A16UPHTV03MQOZ

u/Geshman · 1 pointr/pcgamingtechsupport

I personally just got this one for $35 US as a warehouse deal and it works amazing. It has the same speed as wired with almost the same ping. And it has better speed/ping than using a powerline adapter. Although this is using my old router's antanaes. Not sure how it performs with the stock ones. Probably almost exactly the same.

As far as what you actually need/want I would assume something like this would probably suit you just fine and would likely work just as well. Or this one which may get better performance.

Edit: Put in Amazon.ca link for first one

u/eZGjBw1Z · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Since your router only supports 2 spatial streams, the MU-MIMO feature would only be useful if you had two 1-stream MU-MIMO clients operating at the same time. A 2-stream adapter like the WUSB6400M would fully saturate both streams negating the "multi-user" aspect of MU-MIMO. You're better off using both streams than choosing a 1-stream adapter just so that you can use MU-MIMO.

Pretty much any 2-stream USB adapter would probably be fine but you might have better results if you pick one with larger antennas or one with a cable that allows you to adjust the placement of the adapter for better reception.

Here are a couple examples of cheap options that should work fine.

https://www.amazon.com/Netis-Wireless-Long-Range-High-Gain/dp/B00I604M00

https://www.amazon.com/BrosTrend-AC3-Wireless-Antennas-Supports/dp/B01IEU7UZ0

u/reveric1993 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I feel you if you don’t mind spend a little money I got the brosTrend I got it off amazon

u/MCorgano · 1 pointr/Kalilinux

the rtl8812au and rtl8814au are now both supported / have drivers that support injection and monitor mode, opening AC networks to the world of kali.


This one is pretty skookum https://www.amazon.ca/Alfa-AC1900-Wifi-adapter-Long-Range/dp/B01MZD7Z76/
This one is cheaper and has reviews and questions explicitly stating chipset and use with kali https://www.amazon.ca/BrosTrend-1200Mbps-Adapter-Wireless-Antennas/dp/B01IEU7UZ0/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

​

u/antoine211994 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Would that one be good? Link

u/PapaPeppers · 1 pointr/buildapc

https://www.amazon.com/BrosTrend-1200Mbps-Wireless-Antennas-Raspbian/dp/B01IEU7UZ0

i got this one and i get 100mbs/sec and i'm pretty far away from my router. its big and weird looking but it does the job really well.

u/itsdavebr0 · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

this is the adapter i bought. i figured it would work no problem because the reviews seem pretty good... and no, thats not what i paid... when i bought it, it was much cheaper.

u/PumpkinFeet · 1 pointr/techsupport

Hey, so I bought and installed

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01IEU7UZ0/

It's defo connecting via ac instead of n and it's using 5GHz and internet is much faster so thanks!

But- I notice that the link speed between my pc and router is only 86M. This doesn't seem very high to me. Do you know how I can improve it? Especially since fibre in my area is meant to go to 100M but I'm not going to upgrade unless I can actually use it. Do you have any advice on how to increase the link speed between my pc and the router?

u/zephonate · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

So, screwing with anything Wifi is the bane of my existence. I have little knowledge or concept of the subject, and every time I try to Google it, I end up just coming away with more questions or problems.

I bought this today to try and mitigate the router distance situation. I have no idea how to set things to 5GHz (or if it will screw with other devices in the house/piss people off). Would someone be kind enough to give me an idiot's step-by-step to configuring this Wifi antenna and my router in order to get SteamVR working through my Quest via Virtual Desktop? Optimal settings for Steam itself and Virtual Desktop would also be much appreciated.

So far, I've gotten SteamVR installed on my laptop, as well as Virtual Desktop on my PC and Quest. I also have SideQuest installed on both my PC and Quest, along with the Virtual Desktop mod to talk to SteamVR. I have the antenna drivers installed...and that's about where I'm stuck on how to proceed.

EDIT: This is my laptop if that helps any.

u/NoodleSaidSo · 1 pointr/buildapc

for just 1080p 144hz you could save some money by dropping the cooler, switching the mobo for a msi b450m bazooka v2, switching out the gpu for a rx 5700 (if you're willing to wait for the partner cards with better coolers) or even down to a 1660 ti if you're willing to drop some settings, you probably won't even notice the difference. also exchange that wifi adapter for this one: USB 3.0 1200 Mbps Wifi Adapter

hope this helps, it'll save you like 60 dollars if you go for a 5700 or 140 dollars if you go for a 1660 ti

u/korda016 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

>I can't buy a unifi setup due to low budget.

No, you do not need to buy a switch or a cloud key. All you need is the modem, a quality router, and a Unifi AP. Your router acts as a switch since it generally has 5 Ethernet ports, so the AP will just plug into the router. The cloud key is only for the Ubiquiti controller software. It's basically a dedicated mini-computer that runs the controller software for those who want to manage their devices remotely and get better statistical information. The cloud key is completely optional even though they say it's necessary. The controller software can be installed on your computer at home for the purpose of setup and that's it. Once you set it up, it's really powerful and extends your range quite drastically - I highly recommend. Just be sure to change the SSID and password to the same as your router, so that it handles wifi handoff on your devices.

This is the Unifi AP that I got. I would recommend at least a dual-band AC router with MIMO technology. There's plenty out there where you don't have to break bank, just pick a company that you want to support. I personally like Asus and I've heard great things about Netgear Nighthawk models. Either Asus A3200 or Netgear Nighthawk R6900P. Pair that with a good modem, such asMotorola Surfboard SB8200 (modem will depend completely on what your ISP supports, so don't buy that one unless you know). With this entire setup, you're looking at roughly $400. Even if you don't want to go the AP route, just going with a good router and modem to start will give you an idea of your wireless in your home/office. Unfortunately, working with a wireless signal isn't a one shot type of project. It requires several steps, but first start with the equipment that's feeding your internet.

You also didn't really explain anything in regards to your home/office setup: square footage, brick/drywall, metal obstacles, etc. All of these things play a factor in RF attenuation. You also didn't talk about your setup. Are we talking about being mobile with a phone and laptop, or is there a desktop involved? Are there streaming devices involved?

I haven't heard good things about either a range extender or a mesh system, but it works for some people. If you have a desktop computer, a USB network interface card would do you good.

u/LukeLC · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

I haven't tested it personally, but this Amazon's Choice adapter checks all the right boxes.

u/collective_dysentery · 1 pointr/buildapc

please include more details in ur post next time but...

if u have a PCI lane open, for 19.99$ should do the job.

if u dont and want a usb adapter, this usb plug and play for 20.99 is worth the .99 cents.

​

the pci wifi adapter will perform significantly better tho and then also becomes a part of your system rather than an attachment which takes a usb drive away.

u/oldrocker99 · 1 pointr/Ubuntu

I wouldn't get a USB wireless adapter with no antenna. Here's the one I have:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J65G9DD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/LentilEater · 0 pointsr/videos

thanks again. so spending just $17 will really improve my speeds? i figured you were going to link me some really expensive hardware

this is the one i have right now

u/HanoverWilliam · 0 pointsr/linux4noobs

Typically if your USB wireless adapter functions and your network sucks... It's not a safe bet to assume correlation causation with drivers and updates. It's typically your home network.

Consider looking into Ubiquiti's line of UNIFI products. Or you can find your own brand you may prefer which sell "Access Points". Then I would wire all access points to a central area.

You haven't told us how large your house may be or what physical barriers you may have..



If you really believe it's your USB wireless hardware that may be the source of the issue, I would heavily recommend something like this ALFA NETWORKS RT2800 USB Iteration.It should be natively supported across most distributions.

Good luck. Reply if you have any questions.

u/johnpowell · 0 pointsr/hackintosh

It is always a lot easier to go off of working builds. I have done two and they work pretty good.

I use this for wifi and it works with Lion with it in 32bit mode.

u/TheBeardKing · -1 pointsr/PFSENSE

Or should I just replace the broken port with one of these? https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Chromebook/dp/B003VSTDFG

u/GobblesGoblins · -1 pointsr/funny

Step 1.) Get the things you need:

A. You'll need a wifi adapter that is not internal that uses the right chipsets http://www.wirelesshack.org/top-kali-linux-compatible-usb-adapters-dongles-2015.html will help, personally I recommend one that uses the Atheros chipset, I've found that tends to work a little better. http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NHA-Wireless-Adaptor-Compatible/dp/B004Y6MIXS would be my recommendation.

B.) Pirate a copy of VMWare Workstation.

C.) Grab a copy of Kali Linux.

D.) Make a virtual PC in vmware and install kali linux as the operating system. It's pretty straight forward and you can google it if you have to, it's very simple and if you can't make it that far alone then I really don't want to teach you anything.

If you make it that far let me know. You probably won't.

u/dulbirakan · -1 pointsr/SteamOS

I would suggest getting one that works out of the box. It is 11$.

If you are dead set on getting yours to work there are a few ways:

  • Find the linux driver for the wifi chipset and install that. Sometimes those drivers would be buggy and that is the reason they are not included in kernel.

  • Use ndiswrapper to install windows drivers in linux. Never done this so can not really comment on it.
u/Ninjaivxx · -1 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Making some assumptions. If you do not have Ethernet where your PC is you could pry wirelessly bridge the 2 routers together and the plug you PC in to the 2nd router. (Think you would be better off buying a WiFi adaptors.) If your router is not capable of bridging you could look at flashing it with DD-wrt and that might make it work. I still think a wireless adapter would be the better option.

If you do have Ethernet from router 1 into your PC room you can plug it in on ports 1 through 4 on router 2 do not plug in to the WAN / wireless port. Then plug your PC into one of the other 3 ports.

Edit: cheap wifi adaptors for a PC https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-1200Mbps-TECHKEY-Wireless-Network-300Mbps/dp/B07J65G9DD/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=wifi+adapter+for+pc&qid=1568583172&sr=8-3

u/zerohourrct · -6 pointsr/buildapc

God why? Go USB wifi dongle, I recommend AC600 unless you're doing some crazy media streaming, Archer T2UH (https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Wireless-Adapter-Archer-T2UH/dp/B00UZRVY12) is hard to beat if you need the gain. If you don't need the gain any decent AC600 usb stick is good to go.
I highly recommend just running Cat6 cable to all your desktops, it's just light/day better than wifi, especially in any apartment or urban complex.