(Part 2) Best vehicle sports racks & carriers according to redditors

This makes storing the bikes so much easier! I'll remove the seats/seatposts to fit under the bed when that's finished. I used these full extension slides (https://amzn.to/35waFt5) and these angle brackets to mount to the floor (https://amzn.to/2VINDuQ). To secure the bikes I used this one for 100mm thru-axle (https://amzn.to/35qWaH6) and this one for the 135mm fork (https://amzn.to/2peSN5D) on my Tumbleweed Prospector.

I have a similar rack and we just hang my bike a bit inclined (I have a sloping top tube, not full step through). However, I know there's a frame adapter for these things, haven't used it personally https://www.amazon.com/Swagman-Bicycle-Carriers-64005-Adapter/dp/B000YZG8JS

HTH

Came with the GeoPro, but here it is!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYRM7MM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XqH5CbAK4FEWG?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app

Yeah, can get it here for half the price. I guess "Designed exclusively for Tesla" means they put plastic covers over the arms.

A Saris Bones is an OK trunk rack. That's as good as a trunk rack gets. It can rub on your paint, and I don't like the way it holds the bikes by the top tube.

In general, trunk racks are garbage though. If you're going to use it regularly, do yourself a favor and invest in a towing receiver and proper hitch mounted rack. You can get a Curt hitch with free shipping from Amazon for around $130. I installed it myself with one friend and a socket wrench. It's super no-brainer 100% easy. Then get a wheels-on hitch rack like a Kuat Transfer or something similar. They contact the bike only on the tires/wheels and don't touch the frame at all. The bikes don't sway, the wheels don't turn. The rack doesn't contact your paint at all, and can be tipped out of the way so that the hatch can open even with 2 bikes loaded.

​

But if you're rarely going to move bikes around, the Saris Bones is fine. Roof racks are a pain in the ass.

I was able to get this one for $215 from a warehouse deal. I like it, but you might want to keep an eye on the facebook market place and craiglist for a used mount. New will be expensive, used for a quality one will still be a bit but cheaper.

I know they make the 'dangle' type racks (like this http://www.amazon.com/Yakima-RidgeBack-4-Bike-Hitch-Rack/dp/B00FUHDNRU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427466184&sr=8-1&keywords=yakima+bike+carrier) that hold 4 bikes; but you have to be careful because some frames are odd shaped or small - especially kids bikes- which makes them hard to hang in these racks.... and everything has the possibility of banging around against each other if you dont strap something else around them.

You should be able to get going for $150 total.

I bought the $25 propel paddle from academy, works just fine. My kayak came with one but It seemed too short so I bought this one because it was about a foot longer.
http://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/no-limits-propel-94-kayak-paddle?repChildCatid=824204

PFD $25 walmart.

Milk crate from dicks sporting goods $10

Anchor $10

Rope $5

DIY rod holders - $4 for 10' of 2" pvc

Bungies assorted $5

You can get a kayak roof kit for $30 which is just some straps and a block of foam to protect your roof.

http://www.amazon.com/SportRack-Replacement-14-Inch-Kayak-Block/dp/B00BCLL4LA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451264836&sr=8-1&keywords=kayak+roof+foam

http://www.amazon.com/Roof-Kayak-Carrier-Foam-Blocks/dp/B00PCNIPBG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1451264836&sr=8-4&keywords=kayak+roof+foam

I bought my kayak used and it came with a trailer - so I put a hitch on my car for $105 self installed. Euroball mount was $20. Registering the trailer was $28.

• Chain wear measuring tool
  
  Optional, you can actually use a ruler if you want. But it makes the job a bit easier and more foolproof.
  
  
• Chain breaking tool (plier-style or punch-style, can't remember how my chain is put together at the moment)
  
  When it's time to replace your chain you'll need the "punch-style" chain tool to size the new one correctly, regardless of the type of chain you currently have. But you won't need one until then, so it's up to you if you want to buy it now or later. The "plier-style" is for removing quick links, but that's mostly a matter of convenience: I just recently got one myself, until now I've just used my fingers, or maybe a bit of wire if it's stuck.
  
  
• Chain cleaner tool
  
  I've used these, but I'm not a big fan. For regular chain maintenance, just some degreaser on a rag is enough. For deeper cleaning there's lots and lots of ways to clean a chain, including these cleaning tools. Other options: remove and shake in a bottle, use an ultrasonic cleaner, use two nail brushes pressed together ... or just not bothering with deep cleaning. It's really up to you.
  
  
• Degreaser (is this bike specific/not?)
  
  I use Simple Green for most jobs. There's bike-specific degreaser, though, if you want.
  
  
• Chain lube (is this bike specific/not?)
  
  This one is definitely bike specific! There's lots of options out there, but cleaning and lubing regularly is more important than which one you use. If you ride in the rain a lot, get a wet lube. I like wax-based lubes, for what it's worth.
  
  
• Brush set (any ones in particular? I know I need the sickle-shaped cog scrapey thing, a bottle brush and something finer)
  
  I use an old toothbrush. I've never bothered with the "sickle-shaped cog scrapey thing," but that's because I remove the cassette completely if it gets dirty enough to need that.
  
  
• Dummy hub
  
  Meh, if you want. I've never needed it.
  
  
• Bike stand
  
  I recommend finding something that lets you work on the bike at a more manageable height. Official bike stands are expensive, but work very well. There are cheaper options that get the job done, though.
  
  For a long time I just mounted a bike hanger like this to the wall. The bike just sits in it, not overly secure, but it's enough to get the bike to a working height, and you can pedal to work on the chain. Enough to do basic maintenance. It also doubles as bike storage. I found this works best with road bikes (narrower handlebars).
  
  More recently, though, I made a bike stand. It's still a work in progress, but I'll post pictures of it here eventually. It's made from sawhorse brackets and 2x4's as the base, and then I use this bracket for my road bike and this bracket for my mountain bike to secure it. The front wheel comes off and clamps down, and the bottom bracket rests on the top of the saw horse, with the wheel hanging off the back. It's secure, I can work in my yard and clean the bike on it, and it was pretty inexpensive to make. And I don't have to worry about clamping to carbon, or where I'm going to clamp with the suspension in the way, etc. The only downside is you can't work on the front wheel or brakes very conveniently. My design doesn't store very compactly, though I'm sure you can find a better way if that's a concern.
  
  Most other tools can be picked up on an as-needed bases. Cable cutters when you replace cables. Lockring tool and chain whip when you want to remove the cassette. Bottom bracket wrench when it's time to service the bottom bracket. Cone wrenches when you service the hubs. A torque wrench if you have a carbon fiber bike. Etc.
  
  I can't help with phone mounts, so I'll let someone else make a suggestion there.

Lippert Components (LIPPC) 429756 Jack-It Bike Rack

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYRM7MM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XqH5CbAK4FEWG

There's two options in the hitch-realm.

1. Tray-style like this which is what I recommend, especially if you have a carbon-frame bike where resting the bike on the top-tube is ill-advised. I have this one but I think any similar would work just the same. Love the rack, only fixes I've needed after two years is some touch-up paint and a new corrosion-free cotter pin.
   
2. Arm-style like this which is great if you need to carry more than two bikes, but again not advised for higher-end bikes. Benefit is that you can buy conversion kits to allow you to carry skis/snowboards and kayaks.
   
   With both, find something that's going to allow you to tilt or swing the rack away from the hatch so you can open the trunk without removing the bikes.
   
   I can't speak to locking style - I would never leave my bike on the rack regardless of the lock. Any thief will be able to thwart whatever you're going to throw out there. I'll take my bike into the local 7-11 if I'm parking for 5 minutes. It's too simple to just lift and run.

5' wold work fine. Bring extra duct tape.

You could also buy this soft roof rack and carry them at 10'. I used this one to transport both a monkey hut and a yurt on a small sedan.

Maybe not quite so affordable, but cheaper than getting a trailer hitch installed... I have this one and love it. No messing with straps, super stable. Have been using an older model for probably 6 years now. Thule Raceway Pro 2-Bike Strap Rack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M542IKE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vuRGDbXPHJ495

Few active deals I came across just now. Kicking myself for buying two RockyMounts TieRod Mounts yesterday at $140...

Wahoo TICKR

Yakima ForkLift Fork Mount Rooftop Bike Rack

Fizik Arione K:ium Rails Road Bicycle Saddle

Pearl Izumi - Ride Select LTD Jersey

Yakima Products RidgeBack Hitch Bike Rack 4 bike $190

http://www.amazon.com/Thule-830-Stacker-Kayak-Carrier/dp/B0001FUAXQ/

This is the one I use, I have oval bars. I can get two boats on the roof of a Mazda two. Ones a 12', the other is 11'. Provided you ratchet them well and use a front and back tie down to the back and front bumper of the car, its totally doable.

I agree with you that this is likely the cheapest route to go for universal fit. You could go another step up and get something like these Saris trunk racks below.

http://www.amazon.com/Saris-Bones-801-3-Bike-Trunk/dp/B000BT30RU/ref=sr_1_1?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1453816460&sr=1-1&keywords=saris

http://www.amazon.com/Saris-Bones-805-2-Bike-Trunk/dp/B000BT30RK/ref=sr_1_2?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1453816460&sr=1-2&keywords=saris

I bought this rear swing-out bike rack for my truck. Very heavy duty (and very heavy), swings out easily for me to get access to my steps and camper door, swings back in and secures tightly. Downside: expensive, heavy. Upside: works great. I've taken it on some very lumpy roads (Alaska, Yukon, NW Territory, B.C.) and none of the articulating parts seem to have worn at all. Says it fits 4 bikes but that may be ambitious. 2 bikes fit with plenty of room to spare, though.

You can always get an adapter bar which should allow you to hang it level.

Something like this one. I'm not saying that one in particular as I have no idea if its good or not, just one like that one.

Awesome, I'm looking at doing something very similar with my 4Runner. Although, I've been leaning towards running 12v to a fridge.

Any reason you did roof mount bike rack instead of a swing away hitch mount? Probably cost?

I've been eyeing [this one](SportRack Ridge Swing 4 Hanging Hitch Bike Carrier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R8KAADC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SfBezb3N6AGX8) lately.

The way I see it:

Roof Pros: Out of the way, cheaper, can still tow things
Roof Cons: Hard to get up there, possible front wheel take off/storage, gas mileage, difficult for multiple bikes, clearance
Hitch Pros: Easy access, multiple bikes
Hitch Cons: Slightly obstructive, need to get bar for non flat frame bikes, cost, can't tow things

I have a boat so ideally roof would be best, but everyone online says get a hitch mount.

Link to a very similar bike mount I used. And this is what I used in my rails on my Tacoma. With a little grinding off on the edges of the sprig but, I made it work. Then just go by some nylon locking nuts and stainless bolts.
Hope this helps!

Toss my Vibe on top of my Wrangler Sport as well. Not always the easiest thing to load solo.

I bought these guys to make it a little easier on my top:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BCLL52I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's worked out pretty well so far.

I was limited to 1 1/4" hitches (car's a lease, needed to use only OEM parts), which meant this was one of the only options, but it is great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZZBSJQL

If you can do a 2" hitch then Hollywood makes a great one, too: https://hollywoodracks.com/collections/electric-bike-hitch-racks/products/sport-rider-fat-tire-electric-bike-hitch-rack?variant=46430699910

It comes in both dual fat tire or fat+regular tire versions.

As stated above I bought this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AXXCUM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 so that no one ever thinks I own a guitar.

Unfortunately their 20% deal ended yesterday. This deal is pretty much over but you might still be able to grab a deal on amazon. Trek and most resellers have already gone back to the normal price.

Saris Superclamp EX 2-Bike Rack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZZBSJQL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_N.wdBb12NQYH5

I'm looking at something similar for my 16. I have a RTT, the weight adds up quickly. I was planning on factory rails with the cross members below. I don'tplan to leave the cross members on if the rack isn't being used. If you find something good and not too expensive let me know.

Kodiak AeroGrip 53" Universal Roof Rack Crossbars https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074VB3BBM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_x6n8Ab7W5XA8X

And the rack is actually called the Thule T1, not x-1.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075FMFXFZ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought this QR mount and just screwed it on to a an old shelf i found. This cancels out toppling over. I also throw couple of straps from sides for good measure. With front wheel off i can fit my full suspension in to a Honda fit. I also bought a $5 tarp at home depot and throw that under the bike to protect interior.
The front wheel i just strap down with bungee cords so it doesn't move around.

This rack doesn't require it, as it has a rubber strip that runs along the top. But they do make some thick foam pads if you're concerned about it. I bought these for my trailer and they work well:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BCLL52I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can place them on top of the car, or fit around an "aero" style rack.

I just picked up these for my '13 JSW. A bit pricier than some of the other universal models offered on Amazon but at ~$150 they're still half the price of the OEM or comparable Thule/Yakima bars. I like the fact that they use a metal strap that wraps around the raised roof rails rather than just a clamp mechanism like some of the other universal brands. I've had them on the car for a week now and so far so good. There is a pretty audible whistle above 40 mph but I can't tell if it's from the crossbars themselves or the bike racks I have mounted. It's by no means unbearable but at 70+ mph is certainly noticeable with the radio off.

Kayak mount for car roof racks. Never used. Didn't fit my car. Link here if anyone wants to see them.

PM me.

Don't have my S1 yet, but I am planning on this bike rack for transport since I don't have a truck/SUV. Ive seen at least one other person with it who says it works great. Hoping to catch it on sale.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075FMFXFZ/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Maybe this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MYRM7MM/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AXXCUM/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=saradiet0d-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B000AXXCUM&linkId=47e30f74093f8be75ea24425cdacf055

Okay, so believe it or not there are factors here that haven't been brought up in the other comments.

First off, what kind of kayaks are we talking about? For whitewater boats, the Thule Stacker or Yakima Bigstack are the obvious choices, but if you're carrying fiberglass touring boats, you won't want either of those.

Second, why is it that you want to fold down - just for aesthetics or do you need to clear an overhead obstruction, like a garage door? If it's just for aesthetics I might encourage you just not to worry about it - carrying your boats safely and loading and unloading easily is a lot more important.

If you're carrying touring or rec boats and want a fold-down solution, the Swiss Cargo carrier is a good option. As far as I know it's really an in-house brand at Dick's Sporting Goods, there's a link elsewhere in the comments. It's essentially a fold-down two sided J bar. Great for what you've described. But I wouldn't recommend it for whitewater boats.

An Expedition is very tall. Loading boats on your roof can't possibly be a pleasant experience. If you're loading heavy boats, I'd really suggest looking into a Thule Hullavator. It's crazy expensive, but it stays horizontal and has a relatively low profile, while greatly simplifying access to your high roof. But because it's so expensive, it's really targeted toward touring paddlers with heavy boats and old shoulders.

My buddy uses [Thule Stackers])http://www.amazon.com/Thule-830-Stacker-Kayak-Carrier/dp/B0001FUAXQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1459269597&sr=1-1&keywords=thule+stacker) on his Tahoe and loves them, but loading is an ordeal that involves a lot of climbing. The Stackers fold out of the way, and unlike the Yakimas they've got a slot in the middle to hold paddles. I use them on my VW when I'm not carrying the boats inside the car (for best fuel efficiency). But for easiest loading for touring and rec boats, you'd be better off with a set of j-bars for each boat. Thule now offers the Hullaport Aero which is pretty nice - J-bars that fold flat. But still a bit pricey. You can get non-folding j bars on ebay for $50 a set.

I use this granted its for a much shorter rack but it allows you to use all the way to the front of the roof, then maybe you could get one of those trailer hitch goal post things.

Have this Saris and it works great. I like that it doesn’t touch the frame.

To add to what everyone else is saying, you want to have one of these if your bike is going to be carried on anything but a tray-style rack. Full-suspension bikes with the shock mounted to the top tube do not play nice with hanging-style racks.

No class 2 for the Soul as the towing capacity is too low.

https://www.amazon.com/Allen-Sports-3-Bike-2-Inch-Receiver/dp/B00TRTSRVE

Looks like this should work for you. Fits in a Class 1 and includes an adapter for a Class 2 should you ever need it.

Budget friendly means something different to everyone, but a Saris Bones 2 bike rack is about $150, or you could go with a Saris Bones 3 bike rack for about $20 more, which has more room in the even that you would be taking two bikes, but they fit awkwardly. Yakima and Thule make racks close to the same price range, and they are solid as well. As others have said, ebay or craigslist may have used ones as well, but you just have to make sure the whole thing is there (not missing any pieces or parts).

The Saris Bones 3 is about $150 on amazon.
I had one on my ST (with plenty of Lamin-X protection film at the mounting points) and it was great.

Saris Bones 801 3-Bike Trunk Mount Rack (Gray) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BT30RU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_t6rAybEAKG11X

You’d be better off just getting a small sit on top kayak and some Yakima easy top thingies [[link] ]

Cheaper and less of a headache. It’s completely possible to store a kayak on a balcony, if you have one

I use an Allen 3 bike rack in the hitch. https://www.amazon.com/Allen-Sports-3-Bike-2-Inch-Receiver/dp/B00TRTSRVE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1494327816&sr=8-3&keywords=allen+3-bike+rack

I use the Thule Raceway Pro Trunk Mount with my Mazda 3. At the time I bought it, I didn't realize there was a cheaper version in the form of the Saris Bones rack, but I still got a pretty good Amazon Warehouse deal for it at $260.

I made a post here, if you're curious how far it sticks out from the car.

inno cross bar system with a malone j pro 2 kayak attachment. Here is a link the the malone

I know everybody gets the Yakima and Thule racks, but they're super-expensive. I've been very happy with this one.

https://www.amazon.com/Allen-Sports-3-Bike-2-Inch-Receiver/dp/B00TRTSRVE/

The Curt brand hitches are fairly affordable, and installation is usually bolt-on. (Easy DIY.)

The J rack and stacker bars helps angle the hull so that wind / aerodynamics don't apply so much force to lift the boat off your vehicle when traveling at high speeds. I've heard of racks failing due to this. It's a lot of torque. Plus the multiple points of contact tend to help secure the boat. If you want to go just on the roof, look for some inflatable temporary roof racks. Yakima makes one but you can find cheap ones on Amazon. Don't forget the bow and stern lines if you're driving on the highway.

I have an 11 Forester. I like my Thule rack, it's easy to adjust, easy to put on and off, and holds the bike well. I got mine from Craigslist for around $60 - new ones were stupid-expensive. I've got a couple of bikes, some of them are annoying to have to take apart to fit inside.

Edit: Thule Raceway Pro:

http://www.amazon.com/Thule-Raceway-2-Bike-Strap-Rack/dp/B00M542IKE

I have a Chevy Cruze and an 11 foot kayak, what I do is first unscrew the antenna at the center of the roof. Most cars this can just screw and unscrew no problem.

I have 2 foam blocks like this Centering it as best I can. I try to put them right before the windshield and rear window, the area with the most support. When I load my kayak there is a small part that actually touches the roof so I just put an old towel under it to prevent scratching. The towel is pinned by the kayak and not going anywhere.

Next I put these things under the trunk and hood so I can use a rope to tie down the front and back. I have tried running this system without tying down the front and back and I would not feel comfortable driving more than a couple miles going <30 MPH.

Now I use straps like this and open all my doors and loop it over the kayak and through my car. Again trying to stay close to the front for more strength.

Then I just tighten the front and back ropes to make sure its not going to move left to right, and double check the straps across the kayak.

It seems like a lot but the whole process of loading and tying down takes maybe 10 minutes and that's alone. Quick drive around the block to make sure its good and I'm okay with driving for a couple hours before I want to check it.

This system has worked well for me and the only damage to my car has been the straps will move around a little near the door and leave marks but those are easily buffed out.

I have a fusion and let me tell you these cars are not made to carry kayaks so you have a few things to buy. I'm gonna attach everything I bought for you and I've had great results with it so far.

Roof rack SportRack SR1002 Complete Roof Rack System, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BHWMDSM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_63UbzbPVPJJQX

Kayak rack Thule 830 The Stacker (4) Kayak Carrier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001FUAXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_k5UbzbKX7MW08

Under the hood bow and stern tie points. The whole car is plastic and there's no safe spots to tie them. Thule 530 Quick Loop Strap,Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EOZD26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_X5Ubzb54HDK4S

I was thinking more along the lines of a mount that holds the bike by the axle in whatever you use to haul the bike now. If you haul the bike with the rear wheel on in a vehicle you probably have enough room to mount a fork block in the back to hold the bike upright. 3/4 PVC in a block of wood works great for 15mm axles, and is cheaper than RockyMounts

Obviously there are many reasons why this might not work, but it's the best idea I have.

Found it on Amazon guys! Thanks for the idea OP

Keep seeing posts looking for mount options on small cars. Your car probably has tow sockets front and rear + one loop for either. These handle thousands of pounds and you probably have the first one in your jack kit already. Just get a second factory tow loop off eBay for the pair.

Remove the covers and screw in the anchors. Then run straps front and rear plus through the side windows. Ratchet straps are best. Tighten all 3-4 straps until you can’t wiggle the boat with good force.

Photo shows a triangular strap setup since our factory mounts are off center. Third strap goes through the opposite window and to a grab handle. Protect hood paint with a soft cloth. Also shown are purpose bought foam supports front and rear. Complete setup is stable at highway speeds.

LINKS

Foam Kayak Blocks

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BCLL4LA/


Straps

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7P7EOX/


Flag

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F4RX3AM/

Anchors - eBay search: make + model + some of tow hook towing eye loop bracket ring

This wall mount https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AXXCUM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
with a flatland wall charger mount

Here is the mobile version of your link